A TOUR
IN
WALES.
MDCCLXXIII
CAERGWRLE CASTLE
LONDON, Printed by Henry Hughes. MDCCLXXVIII.
ADVERTISEMENT.
THESE home-travels are the first part of an account of my own country; and were actually performed in the year mentioned in the title page. The world justly loves the reality; therefore, this is mentioned to satisfy the public, that they are not formed out of tours undertaken at different periods.
THESE make of themselves a complete tour of the tamer parts of our country. In a future volume, the wild and romantic scenery will be presented, intermixed with the rich vallies so frequently interspersed. To this will be added an Appendix, containing the subjects referred to in this volume, with variety of other matter. I implore the aid of my countrymen to assist me in the attempt; and to favor me with the necessary materials. They will see, that great part of
Denbighshire,
and all parts of the four remaining counties of our principality, are still to be described. My frequent journies through them, render me a tolerable master of their topography. I look up to my friends for history and anecdote latent among their papers; or references to our writers, least any facts lodged in books might escape my memory.
AMONG the gentlemen I am chiefly indebted to for information respecting the present work, I cannot pass unthanked:
PHILIP YORKE
Esq
of
Erddig;
JOHN MYTTON
Esq
of
Halston:
THOMAS MOSTYN
Esq
of the house of
Trelacre;
PETER DAVIES
Esq
of
Broughton;
KENRICK EYTON
Eq
of
Eyton;
PAUL PANTON
Esq
of
Bagilt;
LLOYD KENYON
Esq
of
Greddington;
Mr. ROGER KENYON of
Cesn;
TO OWEN BRERETON
Esq
I owe the loan of the curious antiquities found in his estate near
Flint,
which are engraven in the plates viii. and ix.
TO RICHARD WILLIAMS
Esq
of
Vron,
I am highly obliged for his poetical translations, marked R. W. and for the elegant version of the ode on
Owen Glyndwr,
to which that mark is omitted.
TO RICHARD MORRIS
Esq
of the navy office, I owe much general information; and am particularly indebted to him for the correction of the press. Mr. HAWKER of the custom house
Chester,
favored me with a particular account of the commerce of that city.
THE reverend Mr. EDWARDS, rector of
Llanvechan,
favored me with some excellent accounts of the parishes of
Oswestry, Sellatyn,
and
Hops.
I RECEIVED several historical facts respecting the parish of
Whittington,
from the reverend Mr. ROBERTS, rector of the parish.
THE reverend Mr. JOHN PRICE, public librarian, and the reverend Mr. JOHN JONES, fellow of
Jesus
college
Oxford,
were indefatigable in furnishing me with extracts from the manuscripts of the university.
As due, I must repeat my thanks to the reverend Mr. JOHN LLOYD, rector of
Nnanerch,
my constant companion in these excursions, for variety of information, which his great knowlege of our antient language qualified him to do, to my singular advantage.
MR. WILKINSON, painter in
Chester,
obliged me with many materials relative to that city.
To Mr. CALVELY land surveyor of the same city, I owe some elegant plans, which will appear in a future volume.
THE drawings marked MOSES GRIFFITH, are the performances of a worthy servant, whom I keep for that purpose. The candid will excuse any little imperfections they may find in them; as they are the works of an untaught genius, drawn from the most remote and obscure parts of
North Wales.
Those that wish to anticipate the views in the intended progress I am to make through the remaining counties, may satisfy themselves by the purchase of the late publications of the admirable Mr. PAUL. SANDBY,
His views in
North
and
South Wales
are FIRST SETT,
SOUTH WALES.
1.
Chepstow
castle,
Monmouthshire
2.
Cardiff Glamorganshire
3. St.
Quintin
's
Glamorganshire
4. St.
Donat
's
Glamorganshire
5. View up
Neath River Glamorganshire
6.
Pembroke
castle
Pembrokeshire
7.
Llanphor
court
Pembrokeshire
8.
Manervawr
castle
Pembrokeshire
9. Inside of ditto
Pembrokeshire
10.
Carey
castle
Pembrokeshire
11.
Burton
castle,
Milford Haven
12. The episcopal palace at St.
Davids.
SECOND SETT, NORTH WALES.
1.
Overton
bridge,
Flintshire
2. The new bridge over the river
Dee,
near
Chirk
castle
3.
Chirk
castle from
Wynnstay
park
4.
Llangollen
5. The abby of
Llan Egwest,
or
Vale Crucis,
and
Castle Dinas Brân
6. The iron forge near
Dolgelleu
7.
Harlech
castle
8.
Caernarvon
castle
9.
Bangor
10.
Pengwern,
&C. near
Festiniog
11.
Conway
caftle
12.
Pont y Pair,
above
Llanrwst
THIRD SETT, Consist of views in SOUTH and NORTH WALES,
1. The west gate of
Cardiff
2.
Cardiff
castle from the west
3. The entrance to
Chepstow
castle
4. View of ditto
5. Inside of ditto
6.
Tra
th mawr, North Wales
7.
Pont Aber Glaslyn, North Wales
8.
Carew,
or
Carey
castle, from north-west
9. The river
Dee,
near
Bala, North Wales
10.
Pimble Meer, North Wales
11.
Dinefawr
castle
12.
Rhaiadr y Wennel, North Wales
, in whose labors fidelity and elegance are united.
DOWNING,
February
1. 1778.
THOMAS PENNANT.
PLATES.
Frontispiece, CAERGWRLE CASTLE.
I. MAEN Y CHWYNFAN Page 12
II. Two Plants Page 19
III. Whiff Flounder Page 20
IV. BASINGWERK Abby Page 24
V. Another View Page 26
VI. ST. WENEFREDE'S Well Page 28
VII. FLINT Castle Page 42
VIII. ROMAN Antiquities Page 70
IX. ROMAN Antiquities Page 72
X. Tombs at NORTHOP Page 84
XI. HAWARDEN Castle Page 100
XII. Chief Justice GLYNNE Page 102
XIII. ROMAN Gate. OLD OSWESTRY, p. 258. Page 110
XIV. Vestibule of the Chapter-house at CHESTER Page 177
XV. Chapter-house Page 178
XVI. HOLT Castle Page 205
XVII. Plan of ditto Page 212
XVIII. Coffin-lids at BANCOR Page 224
XIX. ANGOLA Vulture Page 228
XX. HALSTON Page 232
XXI. Sir JOHN OWEN Page 263
XXII. CHIRK Castle Page 270
XXIII. CASTELL DINAS BRAN Page 279
XXIV. VALLE CRUCIS Abby Page 369
XXV. VALLE CRUCIS Abby Page 372
XXVI. Pillar of ELISDG Page 373
THE TOUR IN NORTH WALES, MDCCLXXIII.
I NOW speak of my native country, celebrated in our earliest history for its valour and tenacity of its liberty; for the stand it made against the
Romans;
for its slaughter of the legions
Vita Agricolae.
; and for the subjection of the nation by
Agricola,
who did not dare to attempt his
Caledonian
expedition, and leave behind him unconquered so tremendous an enemy.
WHEN our first invaders landed in
Great Britain, North Wales
was possessed by the
Ordovices,
a name derived from the language of the country, signifying the situation; being almost entirely bounded by the river
Deva,
or the modern
Dee,
and another river of the name of
Dyvi
Mr.
Llwyd
in
Cambden
II. 778.
. The one flows into the
Irish
sea below
Chester,
the other into the same sea on the borders of
Cardiganshire.
THE spirit which the people shewed at the beginning, did not desert them to the last. Notwithstanding they were obliged to submit to the resistless power of the
Romans,
they never fell a prey to the enervating charms of luxury, as the other nations of this island did. They never, with womanish invocations, requested the aid of the deserting conquerors, or sunk beneath the pressure of the new invaders; they preserved an undaunted courage amidst their native rocks, and received among them the gallant fugitives, happy in congenial souls. The hardy
Saxons,
for above three centuries, could not make an impression even on our low lands.
Offa
was the first; who extended his kingdom for some miles within our borders. His conquest was but temporary; for we possessed
Chester,
the capital of the
Cornavii,
till the year 883, when it was wrested from us by the united force of the Heptarchy beneath the able
Egbert.
This indeed reduced our confines; but did not subdue our spirit. With obdurate valour we suftained our independency for another four centuries, against the power of a kingdom more than twelve times larger than itself: and at length had the glory of falling, when a divided country, beneath the arms of the most wise, and most warlike of the
English
monarchs.
I NATURALLY begin my journey from the place of my nativity,
FLINTSHIRE.
Downing
in the county of
Flint.
To give a general idea of this shire, the reader must learn, that it is lest of the twelve
Welch.
Its northern side is washed by the estuary of the
Dee,
the
Seteia Estuarium
of
Ptolemy.
The land rises suddenly from the shore in fine inequalities, clayey, and plenteous in corn and grass, for two, three or four miles, to a montanous tract that runs parallel to it for a confiderable way.
THE lower part is divided by picturesque dingles, which run from the mountains, and open to the sea, filled with oaks. The inferior parts abound with coal and freestone; the upper with minerals of lead and calamine, and immense strata of limestone and chert. The principal trade of the country is mining and smelting.
The northern part of the county is flat, and very rich in corn, especially wheat, which is generally exported to
Liverpool.
The shire, in most places, raises more than is sufficient for the use of the inhabitants. It is extremely populous; and in the mineral parts composed of a mixed people, whose fathers and grandfathers had resorted here for sake of employ out of the
English
mine counties; many of whose children, born of
Welsh
mothers, have quite lost the language of their fathers.
A LOFTY range of mountains rise on the west, and form a bold frontier. Our county is watered by several small rivers; such as the
Allen,
the
Terrig,
and the
Wheeler;
part of its western boundary by the
Clwyd;
and
Maelwr,
a disjoined part of the country, by the DEE.
WE are ignorant of the classical name of this little province. The
Ordovices,
of which all west of
Cheshire
was part, were subdivided in the time of the
Romans,
in all probability, as the rest of the country was. They had
Reguli
or Lords who ruled over little districts, and united under a common leader when the exigencies of the time required. These factions weakened the state, separated their interest, and facilitated their conquest by the first invaders.
THE names of these districts are now unknown.
Gwynedd
is the most antient we are acquainted with for the country of
North Wales.
The portion I inhabit was called
Tegangle,
which comprehends the
hree modern hundreds of
Coleshill, Prestatyn,
and
Rudland.
The name is preserved in the montanous parts of this parish, and some others, to this day called
Mynnydd Tegang.
I reject the translation of
Tegangle
into
Fair England,
as a mongrel compound. The word is of a much more antient date; it being derived from
Cangi
or
Ceangi,
a set of people, according to the learned
Baxter,
belonging to every
British
nation; who attended the herds and resided with them in different grazing grounds at different times of the year. The neighboring
Cornavii
had their
Ceangi,
who wintered in
Wiral,
and took their summer residence in
Tegangle;
a word to be properly derived on that account from
Teg,
fair,
Cang,
the name of the people, and
Lle,
a place. To corroborate which, at this very day is a plain in the parish of
Caerwys,
a part of the old
Tegangle,
adjoining to this mountain, that still retains the title of
Maes can havod,
or the plain of the hundred summer residences. For this reason I presume to differ from Mr.
Baxter,
in his notion of the summer residence of these
Cangi.
He places it near the
Canganorum Promontorium,
or
Braich y pwll
head in
Caernarvonshire;
but those were the
Cangi
of the
Ordovices,
these of the
Cornavii.
IT may be remarked, that, contrary to what happens to most subdued nations, our country preserved its own language: and the conquerors even deigned to adopt the names of the
British
towns and people, latinizing them from the original words. Thus
Londinium
from LUNDEIN,
i. e.
LLONG DIN or DINAS,
the city of ships
Cambden I. 370.
, from its considerable commerce; DEVA from its situation on the river
Deva
Or
Dysi.
; DUNMONII from
Dunmnyn,
or
the hill of ore;
BRIGANTES from
Brig,
choice or chief men;
Coritani,
or rather
Coitani,
from
Coed,
a wood
Mr. Pegge.
. On the retreat of their
Roman
masters, the latinized names were dropt, except in a very few instances, and their own resumed; but the rest of the
Britons,
who submitted to the
Saxon
yoke, universally received with it the names of places from their conquerors.
THE whole of
Flintshire
was subdued by the
Saxons
immediately after the taking of
Chester
by
Egbert.
It was an open country, destitute of inaccessible rocks and mountains, like the rest of
North Wales;
and consequently incapable of defence against so potent an enemy. The conquerors, as usual, new-named the towns, villages, and hamlets; but could not cancel the antient. Thus
Hawarden
still is known to the
Welsh
by the name of
Pennardd Lâg,
or
Halawg; Mold
by that of
Wyddgryg;
and
Hope
by that of
Estyn;
which (with the continuance of our language to this day) proves that even at that time it mixed but little with our conquerors. Numbers of
Saxons
were settled among us, who held their lands from the
Mercian
governors or earls: we find in the Doomsday book many of their names who had possessions in this tract; such as
Ulbert, Osmer,
and
Elmer.
THE first notice of any sub-division of the tract called
Flintshire,
DOOMSDAY BOOK.
appears in the
Doomsday
book. When that survey was taken, it was made a part of
Cheshire,
to which it was considered as an appendage, by conquest. Old records affirm, that
the county of
FLINT
appertaineth to the dignity of the sword of
CHESTER. It was soon subdued by
Robert de Rothelent,
commander in chief under
Hugh Lupus,
who carried his arms far into
Wales;
and secured his conquests in the marches by building, or rather by adding new works to the castle of
Rudland,
which he had wrested from one of our princes.
THE tract from
Chester
to the
Clwyd
was then considered as a hundred of
Cheshire,
and called in the Doomsday Book
Atiscros
hundred. Numbers of places still existing are mentioned in it, disguised often by the
Norman
spelling.
Whiteford,
the place in question, is called
Widford:
notice is also taken of some of the present townships, such as
Tre-mostyn, Tre-bychton,
and
Merton,
under the names of
Mostone, Widsord, Putecaine,
and
Meretone.
MOSTONE was then a
plough-land, terra unius Carucae.
It had on it four villeyns and eight boors; (
Bordarii
Borda signifies a cottage, with a small piece of land annexed, held by the service of finding for the lord, poultry, eggs,
&c.
for his
bwrdd,
or table.
,) a wood a league long, and forty perches,
particatae,
broad, and was valued at twenty shillings.
WIDFORD is joined with
Putecaine:
The first seems to have comprehended our present
Trelan,
or the place where the church-village now stands. These had one plough-land, two villeyns, and twelve others between men and maid servants, fisheries, and a wood half a league long and forty perches broad; the value was the same with that of
Mostone.
WITH
Meretone
is joined the third part of
Widford;
and the
Berewicha
or hamlet of
Caldecote,
the last at present a township of the parish of
Holywell.
In this division was a presbyter, a church, and six villeyns. Here was a wood half a league long and twenty perches broad. One
Odin
held these of the earl.
AT the time of the conquest, all this tract of
Flintshire,
which was called by the
Saxons Englefield,
and afterwards by the
Normans Atiscros,
was in possession of
Edwin,
the last Earl of
Mercia;
and on his defeat and forfeiture, bestowed, with the earldom of
Chester,
on
Hugh Lupus.
The whole was in a manner depopulated and reduced to a waste, I imagine by the two inroads made into those parts by
Harold,
at the command of
Edward
the confessor, to revenge on
Griffith ap Lhewelyn
the insult offered him, by giving protection to
Algar,
one of his rebellious subjects
Powell,
100.
.
It is observable, that there were only seven churches at that time in the whole hundred: 1.
Haordine,
the present
Hawardin;
2.
Widford;
3.
Bissard, Boteuuaral,
and
Ruagor;
4.
Inglecroft, Brunfor,
and
Alchene;
5.
Danfrond, Calston,
and
Wesbie;
6.
Prestetone
and
Ruestoch;
and finally, the 7th at
Roelend;
besides one that lay waste at
Cancarnacan
and
Whenescol.
Parochial divisions had not yet taken place. Mr.
Agard
Antiquary Discourses, I. 194.
, a writer in the latter end of the sixteenth century, remarks, that the old historians make no mention of either parishes, parsons, vicars, incumbents, or curates. The people attended, in those days, either the cathedral churches, or the conventual; which were served by the prelates or monks, and those often assisted by presbyters, clerks, and deacons. As piety gained strength, other churches, for the conveniency of the devout, were erected by the nobility and men of property, who were desirous of spiritual assistance within their precincts; and to this were owing the churches, which, at the period in question, were so sparingly scattered over the land. The places which enjoyed this advantage had the title of
Lhan
prefixed; as that of
Tre,
which signifies primitively a habitation, is to the townships.
THUS in our parish is
Tre-mostyn,
TRE-MOSTYN.
remarkable for the antient seat of the family of the same name, which acquired it by the marriage of
Jevan Vychan
with
Angharad,
heiress of
Howel ap Ithel Vychan
of
Mostyn,
in the reign of
Richard
II. The great gloomy hall is of very old date, furnished with the high
Dais,
or elevated upper end, and its long table for the lord and his jovial companions; and another in the side, the seat of the inferior partakers of the good cheer. The walls are furnished, in a suitable manner, with antient militia guns, swords, and pikes; with helmets and breast plates; with funereal atchievements; and with variety of spoils of the chace. A falcon is nailed against the upper end of the room, with two bells hung to each foot. With these incumbrances it flew from its owner, a gentleman in the county of
Angus,
on the morning of the twenty-fourth of
September
1772, and was killed near this house on the morning of the twenty-sixth. The precise time it reached our country is not known; therefore we are uncertain whether this bird exceeded in swiftness the hawk which flew thirty miles in an hour in pursuit of a woodcock; or that which made a flight out of
Westphalia
into
Prussia
in a day: instances recorded
Miscellany Tracts, Tr. V. p. 38.
by the learned Sir
Thomas Brown.
The adjacent kitchen is overlooked by a gallery leading to the antient apartments of the lady of the house, at a period when the odours of the pot and spit were thought no ill savours. At one end of the gallery is a great room, remarkable for a singular event. During the time that
Henry
earl of
Richmond
was secretly laying the foundation of the overthrow of the house of
York,
he passed concealed from place to place, in order to form an interest among the
Welsh,
who favored his cause on account of their respect to his granfather,
Owen Tudor,
their countryman. While he was at
Mostyn,
a party attached to
Richard
III. arrived there to apprehend him. He was then about to dine; but had just time to leap out of a back window, and make his escape through a hole, which to this day is called the
King
's.
Richard ap Howel,
then lord of
Mostyn,
joined
Henry
at the battle of
Bosworth,
and after the victory received from the King, in token of gratitude for his preservation, the belt and sword he wore on the day: he also pressed
Richard
greatly to follow him to court; but he nobly answered, like the
Shunamitish
widow,
I dwell among mine own people.
The sword and belt were preserved in the house till within these few years. It is observable, that none of our historians account for a certain period of
Henry
's life, previous to his accession. It is very evident, that he passed the times, when he disappeared from
Bretagny,
in
Wales.
Many cotemporary bards, by feigned names, record this part of his life, under those of the LION, the EAGLE, and the like, which were to restore the empire to the
Britons:
for the inspired favorers of the house of
Lancaster
did not dare to deliver their verses in other than terms allegorical, for fear of the reigning prince.
THERE is little more remarkable about the house than what is common to others built at different times. Here are two remarkable portraits; one of Sir
Roger Mostyn,
knight, with a white beard and locks, in black, with great breeches stuck round the waist-band with points. This piece of magnificence gave rise to a very coarse proverb, applied to inferior people ambitious of acting beyond their station. The other portrait is of his Lady,
Mary,
eldest daughter of Sir
John Wynne
of
Gwedir,
baronet. Both are full lengths, dated 1634, and I think painted by
Mytens.
HERE is another picture, not less remarkable for its ridiculous composition, than for the distinguished person painted in it. A kit-cat length of Sir
Roger Mostyn,
the first baronet; in a strange long flaxen wig, a breast-plate, buff skirts, and antique
Roman
sleeves; a black holding his helmet; his lady reading, with one hand on a scull; and by her husband a lap-dog. This gentleman was the most eminent loyalist of our county: raised a regiment in support of the crown, consisting of fifteen hundred men, in twelve hours time
Whitelock, 78.
, mostly colliers; and garrisoned his house, which, in
September
1643, was surrendered to the parlementary forces, with four pieces of cannon and some arms
Ibid.
.
THE busts collected in
Italy
deserve mention.
BUSTS.
That of the elder
Brutus
is particularly fine, as if formed in the instant that the love of his country got the better of paternal affection; when with a steady voice he was delivering to the lictors his
Titus
and
Tiberius,
to receive the reward of their treasons.
A BEAUTIFUL head of a young faun in a
Phrygian
bonnet.
A FINE head of one of the
Cornelii.
An
Homer,
and an
Hippocrates.
A
Seleucus,
with two wings fastened to an imperial diadem; symbols of dispatch and expedition. Two busts in brown alabaster of a male and female faun, with the
flammeum
on their heads: both are of hideous deformity; but well executed. Here are besides a few small monumental marbles, with inscriptions, which the antiquarian reader may find in the Appendix.
IN the Library is a most elegant collection of the classics,
LIBRARY.
containing variety of the most antient and rare editions; a numerous collection of books relating to the
Greek
and
Roman
antiquities, especially those which comprehend the medallic history; variety of manuscripts, mostly on vellum, and many of them richly illuminated. In a few words, scarce any private library can boast of so valuable an assemblage; which remain indisputable evidences of the taste and judgment of that excellent man, its accomplished founder, the late Sir THOMAS MOSTYN. The family are besides possessed of other very valuable antiquities; such as the cake of copper found at
Caer-hén
in
Caernarvonshire;
the
Torques
This very curious antiquity is engraven in the Appendix, with the account drawn up by my learned countryman
Llwyd
, discovered near
Harlech;
and the silver harp which the family had the power of bestowing on the most skilful minstrel, rythmer, or bard, at the
Eisteddfad,
or assembly held for trials of their several merits. Each of these shall be spoken of in their proper places.
BEFORE I quit the house, I must take notice, that
Thomas ap Richard ap Howel ap Jevan Vychan,
Lord of
Mostyn,
and his brother
Piers,
founder of the family of
Trelacre,
were the first that abridged their name; and that on the following occasion.
Rowland Lee,
bishop of
Lichfield,
and president of the marches of
Wales,
in the reign of
Henry
VIII. sat at one of the courts on a
Welsh
cause, and, wearied with the quantity of
aps
in the jury, directed that the panel should assume their last name, or that of their residence; and that
Thomas ap Richard ap Howel ap Jevan Vychan,
should for the future be reduced to the poor dissyllable
Mostyn;
no doubt to the great mortification of many an antient line.
IN the higher part of this township stands the curious cross called MAEN ACHWYNFAN,
MAEN ACHWYNFAN.
or
the stone of lamentation;
because penances were often finished before such sacred pillars, and concluded with weeping and the usual marks of contrition: for an example, near
Stafford
stood one called the
weeping cross,
a name analogous to ours. This is of an elegant form and sculpture: is twelve feet high, two feet four inches broad at the bottom, and ten inches thick. The base is let into another stone. The top is round, and includes, in raised work, the form of a
Greek
cross: beneath, about the middle, is another in the form of St.
Andrew
's: and under that, a naked figure, with a spear in its hand. Close to that, on the side of the column, is represented some animal. The rest is covered with very beautiful fret-work, like what may be seen on other pillars of ancient date in several parts of
Great Britain.
MAEN Y CHYFAN
I do not presume (after the annotator on
Cambden
has given up the point) to attempt a guess at the age. Only must observe, that it must have been previous to the reign of gross superstition among the
Welsh,
otherwise the sculptor would have employed his chizzel in striking out legendary stories, instead of the elegant knots and interlaced work that cover the stone.
THOSE, who suppose it to have been erected in memory of the dead slain in battle on the spot, draw their argument from the number of adjacent
tumuli,
containing human bones, and sculls often marked with mortal wounds; but these earthy sepulchres are of more antient times than the elegant sculpture of this pillar will admit. This likewise (from the crosses) is evidently a Christian monument. The former were only in use in Pagan days.
THERE are likewise,
GILLI.
near to it, an antient chapel, now a farmhouse, called
Gelli,
the name of an adjacent tract. This might have relation to the cross: as well as a place for performance of divine service to the abbot of
Basingwerk,
who had a house at no great distance, in one of our townships still called
Tré-r-abbot,
or the abbot's habitation. This tract (mis-spelt by the
English, Getely
Ayloff
's, Rotuli Walliae, 64, 72, 95.
,) with the wood (at that time on it) was granted by
Edward
I. to the abbot and convent, on the tenth of
November,
at
Westminster,
before the death of our last prince. He also gave him power to grub up the wood, which, by the present nakedness of the place, appears to have been done effectually.
FROM the summit of
Garreg,
a hill in this parish, the traveller may have an august foresight of the lofty tract of
Snowdon,
from the crooked
Moel Shabog
at one end, to the towering
Penmaen-mawr
at the other: of the vast promontory of
Llandidno,
and part of the isle of
Anglesea,
with the great bay of
Llandulas,
forming a vast crescent; the estuaries of the
Dee
and the
Mersey:
and to the north (at times) the isle of
Man
and the
Cumberland Alps,
the sure presages of bad weather.
I WILL descend now to
Tre-Bychton,
TRE-BYCHTON.
another of our maritime townships, where stands my paternal house, attended (with what was very frequent in our principality) a summer-house, at a very small distance, and a cellar beneath; used as a retreat for the jolly owners and their friends, to enjoy, remote from the fair, their toasts and noisy merriment. This, and the other lower parts of the parish, are finely wooded with oaks; which grow so spontaneously, that, was the place depopulated, it would in a very few years relapse into an impenetrable forest.
IN
Tre-lan
is the parish-church, dedicated to Saint
Mary.
The rectory is a sinecure, which, with the vicarage, is in the gift of the Bishop of St.
Asaph.
The church, I imagine, retains the antient site it had at the time of the conquest. The present building consists of a nave and one aile. The last was built by a
Blethyn Drow,
of the house of
Mostyn,
to whom that part belongs.
THE two
Mertons,
MERTON.
Uch glan
and
Isglan,
are adjacent townships. In the reign of
Edward
I. (before his conquest) the lands of the men of
Merton,
to the amount of sixteen plough-lands, were taken from them, and bestowed on the abbot and convent of
Basingwerk,
against the laws of
Wales,
and the custom of the country; and contrary to the peace between the King and Prince
Lhewelyn
Pewel, 360.
. This violent act was done by
Reginald de Grey
Dugdale's Baron.
I.
713.
, justice of
Chester,
probably by connivance of the King, to provoke the
Welsh
to commit some outrage that would give color to the
English
to break the truce.
FOLEBROC,
FOLEBROC.
or
Feilebroc,
belonged to the monks of
Basingwerk:
and is mentioned in the confirmation of the grants to that convent by
Henry
II. and again in the charters renewed to it by
Lhewelyn ap Jorwerth,
and
David ap Lhewelyn,
princes of
North Wales.
The monks had a grange on it, and right of pasturage on the mountain, in common with neighboring inhabitants
Dugdale's Monast.
I.
720, 721.
.
THE products of this parish are corn of every sort excepting rye. Little cheese or butter is made here for sale, as the grass is chiefly consumed by horses; for the farmers are greatly employed in carrying the minerals of the country: the same may be said of the shire in general. Every cottager has his potatoe garden, which is a great support to them; and was a conveniency unknown fifty years ago. The lower parts are well wooded; and much timber is at times sold to
Leverpool
and other places, at good prices; much is also used at home in the mines.
THE collieries of
Mostyn
and
Bychton
have been worked for a very considerable space;
COAL.
and in the last century supplied
Dublin
and the eastern side of
Ireland
with coal. They are at present but in a low state; partly from the rise of the works at
Whitehaven,
but more from the loss of the channel of the
Dee;
which in the beginning of this century flowed so close to our shore, that ships of two hundred tons lay under this parish, with their cables twisted round the trees. At this time vessels of sixty or seventy cannot approach nearer than two miles, the
Dee
now flowing under the opposite shore. Still we load a few vessels for
Ireland
and some parts of
North Wales.
Much is also consumed by the neighboring smelting-houses, and the inland parts of
Denbighshire.
The improvements of land by lime has of late occasioned a great comsumption of coal by the farmer, and by the persons who burn it for sale.
THE coal is of different thickness, from three quarters to five yards. The beds dip from one yard in four to two in three. They immerge beneath the estuary of the
Dee;
are discovered again on the south side of
Wiral
in
Cheshire,
as if corresponding with some of the
Flintshire:
they remain as yet lost, on the northern part of the same hundred; but are found a third time in vast quantities in
Lancashire,
on the opposite side of the
Mersey.
Their extent from west to east, in this county, may be reckoned from the parish of
Llanasa,
through those of
Whiteford, Holywell, Flint, Northop,
and
Hawarden.
Our coal is of different qualities, suited to the variety of demands of the several sorts of founderies in the neighborhood. Beds of canal are met with; inferior indeed in elegance to those of
Lancashire,
but greatly coveted by the lime-burners. Sometimes is also found the
Peacock
-coal of Doctor
Plot
Hist. Staffordshire, 126.
, remarkable for the beauty of its surface, glossed over with the changeable brilliancy of the colors of that beautiful bird.
COALS were known to the
Britons
before the arrival of the
Romans,
who had not even a name for them: yet
Theophrastus
In his book on stones.
describes them very accurately, at lest three centuries before the time of
Caesar:
and even says that they were used by workers in brass. It is highly probable that the
Britons
made use of them. It is certain they had a primitive name for this fossil, that of
Glo;
and as a farther proof, I may add, that a flint-ax, the instrument of the
Aborigines
of our island, was discovered stuck in certain veins of coal, exposed to day in
Craig y Parc
in
Monmouthshire
Ph. Tr.
No
335. p. 500.
; and in such a situation as to render it very accessible to the inexperienced natives, who, in early times, were incapable of pursuing the veins to any great depths. The artless smelters of antient times made use of wood only in their operations, as we find among the reliques of their hearths, as shall be observed hereafter.
A VERY useful species of ash-colored greasy clay is discovered over one of the beds. It resists the fire remarkably well; and has been used with great success in the mineral smelting furnaces.
THE beds of sandstone are frequent in the lower parts of the parish,
FREESTONE.
and reach within half a mile of the mountain; when the stratum changes: first to a blackish shale, soon dissolluble by exposure to the air; after that to a whitish limestone, or to a hard chert. Both are found in strata a of vast thickness:
LIME.
the first is burnt into excellent lime, and is also used as a flux for lead ores. The common sort of houses are built with it; for which it is less proper by reason of its excessive dampness at change of weather.
IN the township of
Tre-mostyn,
near the shore, is a cliff of a very singular appearance, looking like the semi-vitrified
lava
of a
volcano.
The stratum is in front universally changed in its disposition, and run into a horrible mass of red and black; often porous, but in all parts very hard. In it is a hollow, a vein in which was lodged the pyritical matter that took fire, and caused the phaenomenon. Its fury chiefly raged towards the front, and diminished gradually in the internal part of the bed; which, at some distance within land, appears only discolored. The stratum is a sandstone of the common sort
Da Costa's
Fossils,
133.
. I am informed, that these appearances are not uncommon in
Derbyshire;
and that Mr.
Ferber,
an ingenions
Swede,
and Mr.
Whitehurst,
our ingenious countryman, hath taken notice of them in their writings.
THE chert is the
petros
ex
of the later writers. It is of a flinty nature,
CHART.
and is the only stone that resembles flint in our county. The annotator on
Cronsted
justly remarks, that the true flint abounds in chalk, which is an absorbent earth, as chert does in the neighborhood of limestone, which is also calcareous. As yet, this species of stone has nor been found of any use. I susspect, that in case it was burnt and ground, it might prove serviceable in making a coarse stone ware, as the nodular flints are in making the finer.
Arenaria Saxatilis
Scarlet Mushroom
IN my road to the next parish south of this, I take that which lies on the shore; and pass by the antient smelting-house of
Llanerchymor,
which is still in use for fusing of lead ore, and extracting of silver.
THE sea, or the estuary of the
Dee,
lies at a small distance on the left, a verdant marsh intervening. The hundred of
Wiral,
a portion of
Cheshire,
is seen on the other side; a hilly tract, woodless and dreary, chequered with corn-lands and black heaths; yet formerly was so well cloathed, as to occasion this proverbial distich:
From
Blacon
point to
Hilbree
A squirrel might leap from tree to tree.
THE view of this branch of the sea terminates on one end with
Chester,
and the rock of
Beeston;
on the other with the two little islands of
Hilbree
or
Ilbre.
On one, had been a cell of
Benedictines,
dedicated to our lady, and depqndent on
Chester.
This possibly was the hermitage called
Hilburghy
which, in the second of
Edward
III. received ten shillings a-year from an old charity belonging to the castle at Chester
Janner, 63.
.
THE tides recede here so very far, as to deny us any variety of fish. The species most plentiful are of the flat kind; such as flounders, a few plaice, small soles, and rays. Dabs visit us in
November;
and in the last year was taken that rare species or flounder the
whiff,
whose figure is given in the annexed plate. The weever is very common here: other species are taken accidentally.
THE herring in this sea is extremely desultory. At times they appear in vast shoals, even as high as
Chester;
arrive in the month of
November,
and continue till
February;
and are followed by multitudes of small vessels, which enliven the channel. Great quantities are taken and salted; but are generally shotten and meagre. It is now about ten years since they have paid us a visit.
WHIFF
ON crossing a little rill beneath the banks, I enter the parish of HOLYWELL: And very soon after cross its noted stream, near its discharge into the estuary of the
Dee.
On the right ascend to the site of the abby and castle of
Basingwerk,
a place of importance in the wars between the
English
and the
Welsh.
The land towards the sea is steeply sloped. The west side was protected by a deep gully, formed by the river; the south-east by the vast ditch, which has hitherto been universally supposed to have been that made by
Offa,
king of the
Mercians.
I owe the detection of that mistake to Mr.
John Evans
of
Llwyn y Groes
This gentleman is now engaged in an actual survey of
North Wales,
and of publishing a large map of that part of the principality: a work extremely worthy of public encouragement, A farther account of the plan will be printed in the last page of this volume.
, who proves it to be one termination of another stupendous work of the same kind, known by the name of
Wat
's ditch; of which a full account will be given in some of the following pages, with remarks on the mounts, and other works that lie near its course.
THE only vestige of this fortress appears in the foundation of a wall on the edge of
Offa
's ditch.
BASINGWERK CASTLE.
Lord
Lyttelton
Hist. Henry
II. 3d edit. II. 383.
says, that the founder was an earl of
Chester.
I imagine that it must have been
Richard,
son of
Hugh Lupus,
and second earl of
Chester;
and that the abby was fortified on the following occasion; for even religious institutions had no exemption,
tempore necessitatis belli, licitum est, hospitari et incastellari in ecclesia
Innocentius
de immunitate ecclesiae, quoted in Coll. Curious Discourses, I, 102.
.
ACCORDINGLY, the first notice I find of it is in the life of St.
Werburg,
by
Bradshaw;
who informs us, that
Richard,
on his return out of
Normandy,
where he had been educated, began his reign with an act of piety. He attempted, in 1119, a pilgrimage to the well of St.
Wenefrede;
but either in going or returning, was attacked by the
Welsh,
and obliged to take shelter in
Basingwerk.
He applied to St.
Werburg
for relief; who miraculously raised certain sands between
Flintshire
and
Wiral,
and thus gave means to his constable to pass to his assistance: which sands, from that time were called the
Constable's Sands. Bradshaw
styles the place of his retreat an abby; a proof that here had been a religious community before the time usually assigned for the foundation of this house. I must also draw from Lord
Lyttelton
's authority (for I can find no other) that this castle was demolished by the
Welsh
in the reign of
Stephen
Hist. Henry II.
.
HENRY II. in 1157, after his escape from the ambuscade of
Eulo,
left
Basingwerk
restored, well fortified, and manned
M.Paris, 129.
, in order to secure a retreat on any future disaster. He did the same by the caste of
Rudland.
In his days the inland parts of our county were a dangerous wild of forest. After his defeat he never trusted himself among our woods; but made his marches along the open shores.
THE same monarch left another species of garrison
Powel, 208.
; for he established here a house of knights templars, a military order introduced into
England
in the preceding reign. They were first instituted in the Holy Land for the protection of pilgrims; and possibly
Henry
might have, the same view in fixing them here, to secure the
English
devotees in performing their vows to our neighboring saint, who seems about this time to have come into reputation. It is singular, that these religious knights were allowed at their institution only one horse between two; yet so greatly did they flourish, that about the year 1240, or a hundred and fifty years after their institution, the order had acquired, in different parts of
Christendom,
nineteen thousand manors.
THIS castle was but of very short duration; for in 1165, the gallant prince
Owen Gwynedd
laid siege to it, took
The same, 223.
and levelled it to the ground; after which the name occurs no more as a Fortress. I think at this period it belonged to
Hugh de Bello Campo,
or
Beauchamp,
on whom this and
Rudland
castle had been bestowed by the
English
monarch
Annales Waverleienses. 159.
.
THE abby
Called also by the
Welsh, Maes-glas,
or
Greenfield.
,
ABBY.
of which there are some considerable remains, was founded in 1131 (according to the opinion of Bishop
Tanner)
by
Randle
the second earl of
Chester:
according to Bishop Fleetwood, by
Henry
II. For my part, I believe it to be of greater antiquity; but do not pretend to derive its origin. No light into the matter can be collected from the charters preserved by Sir
William Dugdale.
There are three of them, either serving to confirm the antient donations, or confer new: in each is mention of the earl as a benefactor; but there is not the left hint of his having been the founder. I must attribute that honor to one of the princes of
Wales;
for both
Lhewelyn ap Jorwerth,
and his son
David,
in their respective charters recite, that they give and confirm the several donations to GOD, St.
Mary,
the monastery of
Basingwerk,
and the monks, which had been bestowed on them by their predecessors for the salvation of their souls.
RANDAL was certainly a great benefactor; for it appears, that before his days the monks had only a chapel here. From that period it became considerable; and about that time part of the present buildings were erected, for the conveniency of its inhabitants, who were of the
Cistorcian
order.
THE architecture is mixed. Here appears what is called
Saxon;
having the round arches and short columns in some parts; and the
BASINGWERK ABPRY.
Gothic narrow slips of high-pointed windows in others. The first: species had not fell out of use, and the last was coming into fashion, in the days of the first great benefactor.
THE church lay on the east side; but is now totally destroyed. The refectory is pretty entire; and on one side has a great recess, with two round arches and a plain in front.
ABOVE were the cells for the lodgings of the monks, with a small window to each.
THE chapel of the knights templars is a spacious building. The windows are long, narrow, and pointed; the pilasters between them on the inside slender and elegant.
THERE are some remains of offices, used at present by a tanner. Within less than fifty years, much of the habitable part was standing; and sometimes used by the worthy family, the
Mostyns
of
Trelacre:
a lady now living was born within the walls.
DURING the preparations for the conquest of
Wales
by
Edward
I. the abby was under the protection of the
English.
There are extant two orders for the purpose, providing that they had no commerce with what are styled the
Welsh
rebels
Ayloff's Rotuli Walliae, 68, 82.
. I imagine that the convent was firmly attached to the victor; for I have been informed that there are, among the lists of summons in the Tower, writs for calling the abbot to parlement, in the 23d, 24th, 28th, 32d, and 34th of
Edward
I.
ACCORDING to the valuation of its revenues in 1534, the gross sum at the dissolution was, according to
Dugdale,
150
l.
7
s.
3
d.
; to Speed, 157
l.
15
s.
2
d.
In 1553, there remained in charge 4
l.
in annuities
Willis
's Abbies, I. 312.
.
THE particular endowments, as I collect from
Dugdale
Menasticon, I 720,
&c.
, were these:
Henry
III. by charter, grants and confirms ten
librates
in
Longenedale
in
Derbyshire,
with the church of
Glossope,
and all its appertenances, to be held by them as freely as
William Peverel
held the same in the time of
Henry
his grandfather. The same charter confirms the donations of
Ranulph
carl of
Chester,
and other barons,
viz. Holywell, Fulbrook,
the chapel of
Basingwerst,
the antient residence of the monks, with the mills and their appertenances; likewise
Holes,
and a moiety of
Lecche,
and one hundred shillings of the revenues of
Chester,
the gift of the said earl.
Calders
with its inhabitants, and finally,
Kethlenedei,
the gift of
Robert Banastre.
LHEWELYN AP JORWERTH, prince of
Wales,
and cotemporary with
Henry
III. confirms all the donations of his ancestors; particularly the site of their house, the mill before their gate, and the land before their doors; which last was granted to them by
Ranulphus,
and his brother
Aeneas.
The same grant gives them also the land of
Meredeth Wawor
in
Holywell; Fulbrook,
a community of pasturage on the mountains;
Hanot de le Weceb,
and
Creicgraft,
with all their appertenances. His son and successor
David,
by another charter, confirms the donations of his father, and adds the lands of
Huttred,
brother to
Meredeth Wawor
of
Holywell;
the grange of
Fulbrook;
the church of
Holywell,
and the chapel of
C
lsul;
and the land and pasturage
of
Gelli,
before granted by his father. He likewise empowers them to buy and sell every thing toll-free in all his territories, for the use of their house. Also, the fifth part of the fish taken in his fisheries at
Rudland;
and the tenth of the fish belonging to him in other parts. He confirms to them all the village of
Wenhewm,
with all its inhabitants and appertenances, being the gift of
Howen de Porkenton,
and confirmed by
Helyso.
He at the same time confirms the lands and pasturage in
Penthlin,
the gift of his father.
THIS charter is dated from
Coleshill
in 1240, and witnessed by
Hugh
bishop of St.
Asaph,
and his chancellor, the famous
Ednyfed Vychan,
and others.
TANNER
Notitia, 711.
mentions the tithes of
Blackbrook,
and the wood of
Langdon;
lands in
Chanclesworth;
the manor of
West Kirkby
in
Cheshire;
the silver mine near
Basingwerk;
free warren in
Gethli, Menegrange, Ouregrange, Beggerburgh,
and
Holywell.
THE abby also was possessed of the hospital or chapel of
Sponne
near
Coventry,
which had been originally founded by
Hugh Ceveilioc
earl of
Chester,
who probably bestowed it on these monks
Dugdale's Warwickshire, I. 197.
.
THE revenues of the abbot amounted in the whole, reckoning
rising from the mills, lands, cows, and sheep, to 46
l.
11
s.
Willis's St. Asaph, 176.
.
IN 1540, the house and lands in the neighborhood were granted to
Henry ap Harry,
whose only daughter
Anne,
by her marriage with
William Mostyn
esquire, of
Trelacre,
conveyed it into that family, in which it now remains.
I CANNOT recover the names of any more than two of the abbots; both of the same with my own.
Thomas ap Dafydd Pennant
presided over the house in the time of
Guttun Owain;
a bard who flourished in the year 1480, and celebrates the hospitality of the abbot, in some verses printed in the collection of Mr.
Rhys Jones.
The poet is so liberal of his praise as to say,
That he gave twice the treasure of a king in wine.
Er bwrw yno, aur Brenin
Ef a roes, deuswy a'r win.
HE speaks also of his works of utility; of the water and of the windmills he erected. Neither is he silent on a subject, pleasing to every
Welsh
ear, the pedigree of his patron; whom he derives from
Edwin
and from
Elidir ap Rhys Sais,
a direct descendant from
Tudor Trevor
THE last abbot conformed, and married
Angared
daughter to
Gwillim ap Gryssydd ap Gwillim.
The
Harleian
MS. calls him Sir
Thomas Pennant.
The remains of a very antient oak, still to be seen near the ruins of the house, is called the abbot's, and is supposed to be his cotemporary.
THE road from hence is remarkably picturesque, along a little valley, bounded on one side by hanging woods, beneath which the stream hurries towards the sea, unless where interrupted by the frequent manufactories. Its origin is discovered at the foot of a steep hill,
ST. WENEFREDE'S WELL.
beneath the town of
Holywell,
or
Trefynnon,
to which it gave the name. The spring boils with vast impetuosity out of a rock;
ST WENEFRED'S WELL, MOSS, & SEAL.
and is formed into a beautiful polygonal well, covered with a rich arch supported by pillars. The roof is most exquisitely carved in stone. Immediately over the fountain is the legend of St.
Wenefrede,
on a pendent projection, with the arms of
England
at the bottom. Numbers of fine ribs secure the arch, whose intersections are coupled with some sculpture.
SOME are mere works of fancy; grotesque figures of animals: but the rest allude chiefly to the
Stanley
family. This building, and the chapel over it, rose from the piety of that great house, who left these memorials of their benefactions: there are besides some marks of illustrious donors; for example, the profile of
Margaret,
mother to
Henry
VII. and that of her husband the earl of
Derby,
cut on the same stone.
THE compliments to the
Stanlies
are very frequent. The
wolf
's head is the arms of the earls of
Chester:
it is inclosed in a garter, in respect to Sir
William Stanley,
knight of that order, who had been chamberlain of that city, and justiciary of
North Wales.
The tun with a plant issuing out of it, is a
rebus,
the arms of his wife
Elizabeth Hopton,
allusive to her name. This proves, that the building was erected before 1495, in which year Sir
William
lost his head. The other badges of the same house are, the stag's head; the eagle's leg; and the three legs, the arms of the isle of
Man.
WE also find, that
Catherine
of
Arragon,
widow to prince
Arthur,
and afterwards the unfortunate wife of his brother
Henry
VIII. was a benefactress to this building; at lest her arms appear here: three pomegranates in a shield, surmounted with a crown; the badge of the house of
Granada,
in memory of the expulsion of the Moors, by her father
Ferdinand
Sandford's Geneal. 475.
. The eagle seems also to belong to her, being one of the supporters of the arms of her family.
OVER one of the lesser arches, on each side of the well, are the dragon and gre-hound, the supporters of the arms of
England
during the reign of
Henry
VII. and part of that of
Henry
VIII. The first was born by
Henry
VII. as a badge of the house of
Tudor,
which derived itself from
Cadwalader,
last king of
Britain,
who bore on his ensign a red dragon.
Henry,
in imitation of him, at the battle of
Bosworth
carried on his standard a red dragon, painted on white and green silk; which afterwards gave rise to the office of
Rouge dragon
among the heralds.
ON one side of a wall that supports the roof, was painted the tale of the tutelar saint; at present almost defaced: over it is inscribed,
in honorem Sanctae Wenefredae,
V. & M.
IN another wall is an elegant nich, in which stood a statue of the Virgin
Mary;
pulled down, as I have been informed, in the year 1635.
I have also heard, that there had been another of St.
Wenefrede.
To grace the image on high festivals, it is probable, that
Isabel,
countess of
Warwick,
widow to the great
Richard Beauchamp,
left to St.
Wenefrede,
in 1439, her gown of russet velvet
Dugdale's Warwickshire, I. 414.
.
OVER this spring is a chapel,
CHAPEL.
of the same date with the other building: a neat piece of gothic architecture; but in a very ruinous state. This had been a free chapel, in the gift of the bishop, with the reserve of a stipend to the chapter; but the rest of the offerings were to be expended on the chapel. In
Richard
III.'s time, the abbot and convent had from the crown ten marks
yerely, for the sustentacione and salarie of a prieste, at the chapelle of St. Wynesride
Harleian
MSS.
No 433, 338.
. The chapel is the property of
John Davies
esquire, of
Llanerch.
The well is common; for I find by a decision of the court of chancery, on a law-suit respecting the lordship of
Holywell,
between Sir
John Egerton
knight, and
John Eldred;
chancellor
Ellesmere
decrees,
That on calling to mind, that within the said manor there is a fountain or well of antient and worthy memory, he doth not think fit that the petitioner, or any other, should have the property thereof, notwithstanding the general words of the grant of the manor: and therefore his lordship doth order, that notwithstanding the said grant, that the well shall continue as now it is, or heretofore hath been; saving to the petitioner, and his heirs and assigns, the benefit of the stream and watercourse, with the appertainances.
THERE are two different opinions about the origin of this stream. One party makes it miraculous: the other assert it to be owing only to natural causes. The advocates for the first, deliver their tale thus:
IN the seventh century lived a virgin of the name of
Wenesrede,
OF SAINT WING FREDE.
of noble parents; her father's name was
Thewith,
a potent lord in the parts where
Holywell
now stands; her mother's,
Wenlo,
descended from an antient family in
Montgomeryshire,
and sister to St.
Beuno. Beuno
assumed the monastic habit, retired to
Clynnog,
in
Caernarvonshire,
where he built a church and founded a convent. After completing this work of piety, he visited his relations in
Flintshire,
and obtaining from his brother-in-law a little spot at the foot of the hill on which he resided, erected on it a church; and took under his care his niece
Wenefrede.
A neighboring prince of the name of
Cradocus,
son of King
Alen,
was struck with her beauty, and at all events determined to gratify his desires. He made known his passion to the lady; who, affected with horror, attempted to escape. The wretch, enraged at the disappointment, instantly pursued her, drew out his sabre, and cut off her head.
Cradocus
instantly received the reward of his crime: he fell down dead, and the earth opening, swallowed his impious corps.
Hidgen,
in his
Polychronicon
adds, that even the descendents of this monster were visited with horrible judgments, to be expiated only by a visit to this well, or to the bones of the saint at
Salop.
Ad
Basingwerk
sons oritur
Qui satis vulgo dicitur.
Et tantis bullis scaturit
Quod mox, injecta, rejicit.
Tam magnum flumen procreat
Ut
Cambriae
sufficiat.
Aegri qui dant rogamina
Reportant medicamina.
Rubro guttatos lapides
In scatebris reperies
In signum sacri sanguinis,
Quem VENEFREDAE virginis
Guttur truncatum fuderat.
Qui scelus hoc patraverat,
Ac nati, ac nepotuli
Latrant ut canum catuli
Donec sanctae suffragium
Poscant ad hunc sonticulum:
Vel ad urbem
Salopiae
Ubi quiescit hodie
Gale's Script. III, 190.
.
THE severed head took its way down the hill, and stopt near the church. The valley, which, from its uncommon dryness, was heretofore called
Sych nant,
now lost its name. A spring of uncommon size burst from the place where the head rested. The moss on its sides diffused a fragrant smell
Life of St.
Wenefrede,
from which the materials for this part are mostly taken.
. Her blood spotted the stones, which, like the flowers of
Adonis,
annually commemorate the fact, by assuming colors unknown to them before.
Luctus monumenta manebunt
Semper,
Adoni,
mei: repetitaque mortis imago
Annua plangoris peraget simulamina nostri.
For thee, blest maid, my tears, my endless pain
Shall in immortal monuments remain.
The image of thy death each year renew;
And prove my grief, to distant ages, true.
ST. BEUNO took up the head, carried it to the corps, and, offering up his devotions, joined it nicely to the body, which instantly re-united. The place was visible only by a slender white line encircling her neck, in memory of a miracle, which surpassed far that worked by St.
Dionysius,
who marched in triumph after decapitation, with his head in his hands, from
Mont martre
to St.
Dennis
's
Histoire de l'abbaye de St. Denys, 76.
or that of St.
Adelbertus,
who, in like circumstances, swam across the
Vistula.
TO conclude: St.
Wenefrede
survived her decollation fifteen years. She died at
Gwytherin
in
Denbighshire,
where her bones rested till the reign of king
Stephen;
when, after divine admonition, they were surrendered to the abby of St.
Peter
and St.
Paul
at
Shrewsbury.
The memory of the two great events, that of her first death is celebrated on the 22d of
June:
that of her translation the 3d of
November.
A FRATERNITY and gild was established in honor of our faint at
Shrewsbury.
It had its common seal, which, through the kindness of my friend, Mr.
Henry Levingston,
is now in my possession. It is of copper, of the form expressed in the plate. In the centre is a representation of the martyrdom; above is a cross in form of a T, placed between the letters
T. m.
which mark the time when the fraternity was instituted, during the abbacy of
Thomas Mynde;
who was elected in 1459, and died in 1499, a period in which these religious societies were much in fashion. The T or cross refers to the church of
St. Cross
within this monastery. Beneath are probably the arms of the house, a sword and a key, symbols of its tutelar apostles; and round the margin is this inscription:
sigillū cōe pfraternitat beate wenefride virginis
ī ecīa se cruc ī fra monaster. si petri salopie.
A bell belonging to the church was also christened in honor of her. I cannot learn the names of the gossips, who, as usual, were doubtlessly rich persons. On the ceremony, they all laid hold of the rope; bestowed a name on the bell; and the priest sprinkling it with holy water, baptized it in the name of the Father,
&c. &c.
Stavely
's Hist. Churches, 130.
He then cloathed it with a fine garment: after this the gossips gave a grand feast, and made great presents, which the priest received in behalf of the bell. Thus blessed, it was endowed with great powers; allayed (on being rung) all storms; diverted the thunder-bolt; drove away evil spirits. These consecrated bells were always inscribed. The inscription on that in question ran thus:
Sancta
Wenefreda,
Deo hoc commendare memento,
Ut pietate sua, nos servet ab hoste cruento.
And a little lower was another address:
Protege Prece pia, quos convoco, virgo
Maria.
AFTER her death, her sanctity, says her historian, was proved by numberless miracles. The waters were almost as sanative as those of the pool of
Bethesda:
all infirmities incident to the human body met with relief; the votive crutches, the barrows, and other proofs of cures, to this moment remain as evidences pendent over the well. The saint is equally propitious to Protestants and Catholics; for among the offerings are to be found these grateful testimonies from the patients of each religion.
THE Holy Father gave all encouragement to the piety of pilgrims to frequent this fountain. Pope
Martin
V
Selden's
notes on
Michael Drayton, 289.
. in the reign of
Henry
V. furnished the abby of
Basingwerk
with pardons and indulgences, to sell to the devotees. These were renewed again in the reign of queen
Mary,
by the interest of
Thomas Goldwell
bishop of St.
Asaph
Powel
's notes on
Girald. Cambr.
874. Mr.
Addison
says he saw his picture at
Ravenna,
in the convent of
Theatins,
among the eminent men of that order.
, who fled into
Italy
on the accession of
Elizabeth.
Multitudes of offerings flowed in; marks of gratitude from such who had received benefit by intercession of the virgin.
THE resort of pilgrims of late years to these
Fontanalia
has considerably decreased; the greatest number are from
Lancashire.
In the summer, still a few are to be seen in the water in deep devotion up to their chins for hours, sending up their prayers, or performing a number of evolutions round the polygonal well; or threading the arch between well and well a prescribed number of times. Few people of rank at present honor the fountain with their presence. A crowned head in the last age dignified the place with a visit. The prince who lost three kingdoms for a mass, payed his respects, on
August
29th 1686, to our saint; and received as a reward a present of the very shift in which his great grand-mother
Mary Stuart
lost her head
The late Doctor
Copper
of
Chester
's MSS.
. The majority of devotees are of the fair sex, attracted hither to commemorate the martyrdom of St.
Wenefrede,
as those of the East did the death of the
Cyprian
favorite,
Whose annual wound in
Lebanon
allured
The
Syrian
damsels to deplore his fate
In woeful ditties all the summer's day:
While smooth
Adonis
from his native rock
Ran purple to the sea, supposed with blood
Of
Thammuz
yearly wounded.
WE, whose ancestors, between two and three centuries ago, abridged our faith to the mere contents of the Old and New Testament, and to the creed called the
Apostles,
do not think the belief in the above, and other legends, requisite. I refer the reader to the arguments used by the antiquary Doctor
Powel,
in his notes on the Itinerary of
Giraldus Cambrensis,
and to bishop
Fleetwood
's annotations on the life of the saint, for proofs against the truth of the tale: but with Protestants, and temperate Catholics, it carries with it self-confutation.
THE waters are indisputably endowed with every good quality attendant on cold baths; and multitudes have here experienced the good effects that thus result from natural qualities, implanted in the several parts of matter by the divine Providence in order to fulfil his will. Heaven for a short period deigned to convince a dark and obdurate age with a series of miracles; which were delivered down to succeeding times, as incontestible proofs of the reality of the divine mission. Without them, a sufficient ground of trust and reliance upon the Supreme Being has long since been established. Second causes innumerable are dispersed throughout the universe, subordinate to the FIRST. Every element proves to us a medicine or a bane, as suits His unerring dispensation. We cannot want, we cannot have the mediation of poor departed mortals. The supposition would be bestowing on them the attributes of the Deity; omnipresence and omniscience.
SOME eminent botanists of my acquaintance have reduced the sweet moss,
MOSSES
and the bloody stains, to mere vegetable productions, far from being peculiar to our fountain. The first is that kind of moss called a
Jungermannia,
imperfectly described and figured by
Dillenius,
in his history of mosses; which has induced us to give a new engraving of it. This species is also found in another holy well in
Caernarvonshire,
called
Ffynnon Llandeniolen,
in a parish of the same name.
THE other is a
Byssus,
likewise odoriferous: common to
Lapland,
and to other countries besides our own. It adheres to stones in form of fine velvet.
Linnaeus
calls it
Byssus Jolithus
Sp. Pl. II. 1638. Fl. lap. 369. No 528.
, or the violet-smelling. He says, the stone to which it adheres easily betrays itself by the color, being as if smeared with blood; and if rubbed, yields a smell like violets.
Micheli,
in his
Genera
of plants, mentions the same
Gen. 210. tab. 89. fig. 3.
; and
Schwenckselt
discovered it among the vegetables of
Silesia.
He calls it a
muscus subrubeus,
and informs us, that the smell is grateful to the heart; and that, if put among cloaths, it gives them a good scent, and serves to drive away moths
Cat. Stirp. &c. Silesiae, 382.
.
Linnaeus
says
As quoted by Baron Halier, No 2090.
, that it is of use in eruptive disorders.
ABOVE the well stands the church, dedicated to St.
Wenefrede.
The parish wakes are celebrated in
November,
the time of her translation. The living, before the dissolution, belonged to the abby of
Basingwerk;
and is a vicarage in the gift of
Jesus College Oxford,
which nominates; and
John Davies
esquire, of
Llanerch,
the lay-rector, presents.
ABOVE the church is a hill called
Bryn y Castell,
narrow, and very steep on the sides, projecting at the end over the little valley. On this might have stood the castle of
Treffynnon,
or St.
Wenefrede,
built by
Randle
III. earl of
Chester,
in the year 1210
Powel, 262.
. There are not at present any vestiges left.
IT is singular, that no mention is made in the Doomsday book of either chapel, church, or well; yet townships now of less note are named; such as
Brunford Caldecote,
and others. Notwithstanding bishop
Fleetwood
's opinion, I think the legend of St.
Wenefrede
was known previous to that survey; for the very name of
Holywell
is
Saxon,
probably bestowed on it before the Conquest, on account of the imputed sanctity of the well.
THE spring is certainly one of the finest in these kingdoms; and, by the two different trials and calculations lately made for my information, is found to fling out about twenty-one tons of water in a minute. It never freezes; or scarcely varies in the quantity of water, in droughts or after the greatest rains. After a violent fall of wet, it becomes discolored by a wheyey tinge.
THE stream formed by this fountain runs with a rapid course to the sea, which it reaches in little more than a mile's distance. The industry of this century hath made its waters of much commercial utility. The principal works on it at this time are battering mills for copper; a wire-mill, coarse paper mill, snuffmill, a foundery for brass; and at this time, a cotton manufactory is establishing, the success of which will be an extensive blessing to the neighborhood.
DURING the reign of pilgrimages, nothing but a corn-mill or two, the property of the monks, found employ for this beneficial stream.
THE town was also very inconsiderable till the beginning of this century; the houses few, and those for the most part thatched; the streets unpaved; and the place destitute of a market. The flourishing mines, that for some time were discovered in the neighborhood, made a great change in the appearance, and introduced the effects of wealth. The town, or rather township, contains somewhat more than two thousand souls.
THE monks of
Basingwerk
obtained for it the grant of a fair and a market. The first has been dropt beyond the memory of man. The market was also lost, till it was renewed by letters patent, dated
Jan.
20th, 1703, granted to Sir
John Egerton
baronet. The patent also contains a grant of three fairs,
viz.
on the 23d of
April,
the
Tuesday
in
Easter
week, and the 2d of
September.
The market has been the most flourishing in
North Wales;
but the fairs never could be established.
THE situation of the town is pleasant and healthy. On the back is a lofty hill, at times extremely productive of lead ore. Towards the sea is a pretty valley, bounded by woods: the end finishes on one side with the venerable abby. To such who requ
e the use of a cold-bath, few places are more proper; for, besides the excellence of the waters, exceeding good medical assistance, and comfortable accommodations, may be found here; and the mind entertained, and the body exercised, in a variety of beautiful rides and walks.
MY next visit was to
Flint.
I took the lower road, by the shore, blackened with the smoke of smelting-houses; and, in the more flourishing times of the collieries, with vast stacks of coal. The last township in
Ho
ywell
parish, on this side, is that of
Coleshill;
COLESHILL.
which gives name to a hundred, and was so called from its abundance of foss
l fuel. This place had at the Conquest four villeyns, two boors, and a
Radman.
This last seems to have been the same with the
Rod
or
Rad-knights,
who, by the tenure of their lands, were bound to ride with or for their lord, as often as his affairs required.
AFTER crossing a small brook, enter the town of FLINT:
FLINT.
a place laid out with great regularity; but the streets far from being completed. The removal of the greater and the lesser sessions, and its want of trade, will be farther checks to its improvement. This town gave name to the county, which, with that of
Caernarvon, Merioneth,
and
Anglesey,
composed the four antient
North Welsh
shires, formed by
Edward
I. immediately after the conquest of our principality. I cannot assign any derivation of the word: our county is totally destitute of the fossil usually so called. I can only remark, that it is purely
Saxon;
and, notwithstanding it is not mentioned in the Doomsday book, was called so before the Conquest.
THIS place also seems to me to have been the same with what was named
Colsul
or
Coleshill.
I can find no other site for the chapel of
Colsul,
granted by
David ap Llewelyn
to the abby of
Basingwerk.
The present
Flint
probably went at this period under both names. There is no trace of any chapel in the neighborhood excepting this; nor any other place of consequence enough to tempt our princes to live at. It was called in the Doomsday book
Coleselt;
and was possessed by
Robert
of
Rudland. Edwin
held it from him, and as a free-man. Here was one hide of land taxable.
THE whole place appears to have been founded in times of danger; and every provision made against an attack from a people recently subdued, and who had submitted reluctantly to a foreign yoke. The town is formed on the principle of a
Roman
encampment, being rectangular, and surrounded with a vast ditch and two great ramparts, with the four regular
portae,
as usual with that military nation. I shall hereafter give a conjecture of the probability of its having been a
Roman
station.
THE public buildings within this precinct are the church, the town-hall, and the jail; not one of which is any ornament to this little capital. The church, or rather chapel, is dedicated to St.
Mary;
and is only a perpetual curacy under
Northop.
I imagine this to have been the
capella de Colsul
Dugdale Monast. I. 720.
, belonging to the abby of
Basingwerk,
mentioned in the charter of
David ap Llewelyn;
at lest, I can trace no other.
Flint,
in that time, was probably comprehended under the name of
Colsul.
THE castle stands on a low free-stone rock that juts into the sands, a little north-east of the town; and was once joined to it by a bridge which led to the outwork, called the
Barbican;
a square tower, with a gateway, now entirely demolished. Within was a court surrounded with a ditch faced with a wall, that joined by means of a drawbridge to the main fortress; whose entrance, for better security, was little more than a postern.
THE castle is a square building, with a large round tower at three of the corners, and a fourth a little disjoined from the other, and much larger than the rest. This is called the
double tower.
FLINT CASTLE
It had been joined to the castle by a drawbridge, and is of great thickness. It has a circular gallery beneath, vaulted, with four arched openings into a central area, a little more than twenty-two feet in diameter. In one part, the gallery is suddenly lowered, and goes sloping towards the castle; and then rising upwards, makes a sort of communication with an upper gallery.
THIS was the Keep, or strong part of the castle, and the same that the
French
call
le Dongeon;
to which, as
Froissart
informs us, the unfortunate
Richard
II. retired, as the place of greatest security, when he was taken by
Bolingbroke.
THE channel of the
Dee
at present is at some distance from the walls; but formerly flowed beneath. There are still in some parts rings, to which ships were moored.
THE founder of this castle is uncertain.
Cambden
attributes it to
Henry
II. and his noble hisstorian
Lord
Lyttelton.
is of the same opinion. After his escape at
Euloe,
it is possible that he might have begun a fortress here for security in future times; that he might have left it incomplete; and that it was finished by
Edward
I. The rolls of the last reign mention the place several times.
IN the year 1277, there was an order for proclaming a market and fair to be held at
Flint;
and the same was afterwards done through
Cheshire,
and the cantreds of
Wales.
IN 1280, appears an order for the custody of the gate of the castle of
Flint.
Perhaps this might have been the year in which it was first garrisoned.
IN 1283, the town received its first charter; was made a free borough; and the mayor sworn faithfully to preserve its liberties. This is dated at
Flint
on the 8th of
September:
it was confirmed again in the 2d and 3d years of
Philip
and
Mary,
and afterwards in the 12th of
William
III.
IN 1283, the burgesses also received a grant from
Edward,
of timber out of the woods of
Northop, Ledebroke
the greater and lesser,
Keldreston, Wolsynton, Weper,
and
Sutton,
in order to smelt their lead ore; and at the same time a right of pasturage in the same woods.
IN 1290, there is an order for superintending the works of this castle, and those of
Rudland
and
Chester;
places of the first importance, on the borders of a new-conquered country
Rotuli
Walliae,
98
.
THE first great event that occurs to me respecting this fortress is in the year 1280, when the
Welsh,
wearied with the reiteration of oppression, as a signal of general insurrection, surprized the place
76.
; at the same time that
David,
brother of
Llewelyn;
took
Hawarden;
and
Rees
the son of
Malgon,
and
Griffith ap Meredeth ap Owen,
seized the castle of
Aberystwyth
Powel, 337.
.
HERE, in 1311, the infatuated son of our conqueror received from exile his imperious favorite
Piers Gaveston,
who had landed at
Caernarvon
from
Ireland
Stow, 214.
.
FROM this period I find nothing remarkable relating to this fortress, till the year 1335, the 9th of
Edward
III. when appears an order to the Black Prince, as earl of
Chester,
to take in safe custody the castle of
Flint
and
Rudland,
and to furnish them with men and provisions
Rotuli
Scotiae,
165.
.
Edward,
in his 7th year, had by charter granted to his gallant son the castles of
Chester, Beeston, Rudland;
and
Flint,
and all his lands there; and also the cantred and lands of
Englefield,
with all their appertenances, to have and to hold to him and his heirs, kings of
England
Dodridge, 125.
.
IN this
dollorous castell
III.
, as
Halle
styles it, was deposed the unfortunate monarch
Richard
II. To this place he was inveigled by
Henry Percy,
earl of
Northumberland,
with the assurance that
Bolingbroke
wished no more than to be restored to his own property; and to give to the kingdom a parlement.
Northumberland,
with a small train, first met
Richard
at
Conway,
then on his return from
Ireland.
The king distrusted the earl; who, to remove all suspicion, went with him to mass, and at the altar took an oath of fidelity. The king fell into the snare; proceeded with the earl for some time, till he perceived, about the precipice of
Penmain Rhôs,
a large band of soldiers with the
Percy
banners. The king would have then retired; but
Northumberland,
catching hold of his bridle, forcibly directed his course. The poor prince had just time to reproach him with his perjury, telling him, that the God he had sworn upon that morning, would do him justice at the day of judgment
Carte. II. 634.
. He caused the king to dine at
Rudland,
and conveyed him that night to
Flint.
The next morning, he was astonished with the sight, of a numerous army, commanded by his rival, in full march along the sands: they soon surrounded the castle. The prince descended from the
Keep
This place, in old writers, is called the
Dongeon,
or
Donjon:
according to SKINNER,
Turris mu
ssima pr
pagnaculi ad ultimum receptum;
but the word being now entirely applied to the miserable hole in which captives are confined, I shall still retain the term
Keep.
, to meet
Bolingbroke;
who fell on his knees, and for a short space assumed a respectful appearance: but he soon stung off the mask; for, 'with a high sharpe voyce,' say Stow,
the duke badde bring forth the kings horses; and then two little nagges, not worth forty franks, were brought forth; the king was set on the one, and the earl of
Salisbury
on the other; and thus the duke brought the king from
Flint
to
Chester,
where hee was delivered to the duke of
Glocester
's sonne, and to the earle of
Arundel
's sonne, that loved him but a little; for he had put their fathers to death; who led him strait to the castle
Stow's
Annals, 322.
.
IF
Froissart
may be credited,
Richard
did not experience the pang of ingratitude from man alone: by a strange infection, it seized the most faithful of the brute creation; for his very dog deserted him, and fawned on his rival
Bolingbroke,
as if he understood and predicted the misfortunes of his old master, The story is so singular, that I shall relate it in the words of his noble translator Sir
John Bouchier,
lord
Berners
Fol. cccxii.
; who, speaking of the transactions in
Flint
castle, says,
AND as it was enfourmed me, kyng
Richarde
had a grayhounde called
Mathe,
who alwayes wayted upon the kynge, and woulde knowe no man els. For whan so ever the kynge dyd ryde, he that kepte the grayhounde dyd lette hym lose, and he wolde streyght runne to the kynge and fawne uppon hym, and leape with his fore fete upon the kynges shoulders. And as the kynge and the erle of
Derby
talked togyder in the courte, the grayhounde, who was wont to leape upon the kynge, left the kynge and came to the erle of
Derby,
duke of
Lancastre,
and made to hym the same frendly countinaunce and chere as he was wonte to do to the kyng. The duke, who knewe not the grayhounde, demaunded of the kynge what the grayhounde wolde do. Cosyn, quod the kynge, it is a great good token to you, and an evyll sygne to me. Sir, howe knowe you that, quod the duke? I knowe it well, quod the kynge. The grayhounde maketh you chere this dave as kynge of
Englande,
as ye shalbe, and I shalbe deposed: the grayhounde hath this knowledge naturallye: therefore take hym to you; he wyll folowe you and forsake mee. The duke understoode well those wordes, and cherysshed the grayhounde, who wolde never after folowe kynge
Richarde,
but folowed the duke of
Lancastre.
IN the insurrection of
Owen Glendwr, Henry
prince of
Wales
procured from his father a pardon for several of his tenants in these parts, who took up arms in the cause of our valiant countryman
Harlcian MSS. No 2099.
.
THERE is another gap in the history till the troubles of the last century; when this county took an active part in support of royalty,
wn castle was garrisoned for the king, after having been repaired at the expence of Sir
Roger Mostyn
knight, who was appointed governor. In 1643, it was closely besieged by Sir
William Brereton
and Sir
Thomas Middleton;
and was defended by the governor till all provisions, even to horses, failing, he then surrendered it upon honorable terms.
'THIS colonel
Mostyn,'
says
Whitelock,
is my sister's son, a gentleman of good parts and mettle; of a very antient family, large possessions, and great interest in that country; so that in twelve hours he raised fifteen hundred men for the king
Whitelock, 76.
.
I MAY add, that after a long imprisonment in the castle of
Conway,
towards the conclusion of the war, his circumstances were so reduced, having spent sixty thousand pounds in the service of the crown, he was obliged to desert his family-seat, and live several years in an ordinary farm-house.
FLINT fell afterwards into the hands of the loyalists; for, under the year 1646, I find in the same historian, that the garrison seemed inclinable to come to a treaty. In
November
of the preceding year, it had received that of
Beeston;
which, after a most gallant defence, capitulated, and was allowed to march with all the honors of war to this place
Rushworth 1. part iv. 136.
. But on the 29th of
August, Flint
castle was surrendered to major-general
Mytton;
and in 1647 was, with other
Welsh
castles, dismantled by order of the house, directed to the general for that purpose
Idem, Ibid. 456.
.
ON the restoration, it was resumed by the crown, among its other rights, in which it still continues. The crown governs it by a constable, who is likewise mayor of
Flint.
These offices are at present filled by my friend
Owen Brereton,
esquire.
THE town, in conjunction with
Caerwys, Rudland, Caergwrley,
and
Overton,
sends a member to parlement. The election is made by the inhabitants paying parochial taxes; and the return made by the two bailiffs of
Flint,
appointed by the mayor. The borough land of this town extends over the whole parish, and also the township of
Coleshill,
in the parish of
Holywell.
THE
Welsh
boroughs and counties received the privilege of representatives by act of parlement of the 27th of
Henry
VIII.
THIS town, with the county, was an appendage to the earldom of
Chester.
The following schedule gives us their revenues, as they stood in the 50th year of
Edward
III.
 
£.
s.
d.
The profits of the manor of
Hope
and
Hopedale,
63
0
0
of the manor of
Eulo,
and the coal-mines,
6
0
0
of the office of constable of
Rudland,
whereof he was accountable,
8
14
0
the rent of the town of
Flint,
56
0
0
of the town of
Coleshill,
4
7
10
of the town of
Caerwis,
22
6
8
of
Bagherge,
14
3
4
of
Veyvoll (Veynoll),
13
6
8
of
Rudland,
72
9
2
of
Mostyn,
15
6
8
of the office of escheator of
Englefield,
56
0
0
Carried over, £
331
14
4
Brought over, £
331
14
4
The
Bloglot
of the county of
Flint,
which consisteth of the profits of the hundred courts within the said county,
72
11
9
The profits of the perquisites of the session of
Flint,
30
0
0
of the escheator of the said county,
8
0
0
Total, £
442
6
1
ABOUT a mile from the town, on the lower road to
Chester,
stood a cross, whose pedestal I remember, which was called
Atis-cross,
ATIS-CROSS.
and the land around is still called Croes-ati. This probably was a place of note; for, at the Conquest, it gave name to a very considerable hundred, at that time considered as part of
Cheshire. Exestan
was another, now given to
Flintshire;
which will be noticed in its place.
THERE is a tradition, that in very old times there stood a large town at this place; and it is said the foundations of buildings have been frequently turned up by the plough. But what is most remarkable, is the great quantities of scoria of lead, bits of lead ore, and fragments of melted lead, discovered in several spots here, and along the country, just above the shore, in the adjoining parish of
Northop.
These have of late been discovered to contain such quantities of lead, as to encourage the washers of ore to farm the spots. In this tract, numbers of tons have been gotten within a small time, especially at
Pentre
FFWRN-DAN, or the
place of the fiery furnace;
a name it was always known by, and which evinces the antiquity of smelting in these parts; but this etymology was never confirmed, till by means of these recent discoveries.
In page 42 I mentioned my suspicion, that the precinct of
Flint
town once served to inclose a small
Roman
station: I am confirmed in my opinion, from the multitudes of
Roman
coins,
Fibulae,
and variety of antique instruments, lately discovered by the workmen in the old washes of this and the next parish; which prove that the
Romans
made this their port for exporting the metal, after it was fused from the ore of the adjacent mountains. Here might be placed a small garrison to protect the antient smelters, or to collect the duties, or to receive the tribute of metal. Previous to the settlement of the
Romans
in
Britain, Strabo
speaks
Lib. iv. p. 307.
so slightly of our articles of commerce, as to say, they were not worth the expence of one legion and a few horse. He died in the year 25, before our country was scarcely known, except by the attempt of
Caesar.
But the trade, both in his days, and those of that great geographer, was carried on merely by exchange. The
Britons
worked their own mines of tin and lead; and in their room received from the foreign merchants, earthen ware, salt, and works of brass
Idem, lib. iii. p. 265.
.
IN a small time after the
Romans
had carried their arms through our island, they began to apply with vigor to the working of the mines. At first, the ore of lead was got with ease: it offered itself on the surface. In
Spain
and
Gaul,
much labor was required to dig it up; in
Britain
it was found near the common soil
Plinii,
Hist. Nat. xxxiv. c. 17.
; and in such quantities, that in
Pliny
's time (who died in the year 79) there was a law (as there is at present in respect to black lead) limiting the annual produce
Pliny,
lib. xxxiv. c. 17.
. Chance was the general detector of metallic riches in early times. The gold mines of
Galicia
were discovered by the plough
Justin
lib. xliv. c. 3.
: those of
India
by the casting up of hillocks by the pismires
Strabo, lib. ii. p. 121. lib. xv. p. 1028.
: the silver mines of
Spain
by the casual burning of a wood
Diod. Siculus, lib. v. c. 2.
. Trivial accidents, even to this age, have been the cause of mighty mineral discoveries. The great mine at
Halkin
was discovered by ditching: that at
Llangynnog
in
Montgomeryshire,
by the slip of a woman ascending a hill, and baring the vein with her feet. Many of the works that we suspect to have been
Roman
are very shallow; generally in form of trenches, through which they pursued the veins. They probably were discovered from slight causes. But as ore grew more scarce, and avarice encreased, the pursuit went as deep as the art or powers of the time would permit.
Imus in viscera ejus (Telluris) et in sedes manium opes quearimus
Plinii, lib. xxxiii. Proemium.
.
We descend into the very bowels of the earth; and seek riches even in the seat of departed spirits.
The want of gun-powder was a great impediment. Instead, we find that great fires were used; the rock intensely heated, and cracks formed in it by the sudden infusion of water;
Pliny
says of vinegar
Lib. xxxiii. c. 4.
. The wedge or pick-ax
Ibid.
was then insinuated into the apertures, and the stone or the ore forced out. Miners often discover the marks of fire in antient mines. I am in possession or a little wedge, five inches and a quarter long, presented to me by Mr.
Smedly
of
Bagilt Hall,
discovered in working the deep fissures of
Dalar Goch
rock in the parish of
Disert
in this county. This little instrument affords a proof of its antiquity, by being almost entirely incrusted with lead ore. It had probably lain in the course of some subterraneous stream, which had brought along with it the leaden particles, and deposited them on the iron.
PICK-AXES of an uncommon bulk, and very clumsy, have been discovered in the bottom of the mineral trenches. These seem to have been the same with the
Fractaria
of the
Romans,
pick-axes of enormous size, used by the miners in the gold mines
Pliny,
lib.
xxxiii. c. 4.
of
Spain.
Buckets of singular construction, and other things of uses unknown at present, have been found among the antient mines.
IN many respects the antient methods of mining were similar to those in present use. The laborers worked by stems, relieving each other at stated times. They worked night and day, by the light of lamps. They drove levels, and sunk shafts, propping up the ground as they went on. They pursued the veins by forming drifts
Ibid.
; and finally, whenever the mines were molested with water, they had pumps, which flung up the water from the greatest depths they arrived at
Diodorus Siculus,
lib.
v. c. 2.
.
I HAVE mentioned above,
DIVINING ROD
the casual detection of our mineral wealth. It will perhaps amuse the reader, by informing him, that in this county, within my memory, recourse was had to the
virgula divinatoria,
or divining rod; which, by powers sympathetic with the latent ore, was to save the usual expences of search, and to point out the very spot where the treasures lay. A foreign adventurer, half knave half enthusiast, made the trial; but it proved as unfortunately unsuccessful to himself, as to his admirers. The instrument of the attempt was no more than a rod forked at one end,
to be cut in a planetary hour on SATURN'S
day
and hour; because SATURN
is the significator of lead.
Jupiter, Venus, Sol,
and
Mercury,
were also concerned in the time of the operation.
Jupiter,
or
Pars Fortunae,
was to be in
Conjunction, Sextile,
or
Trine
to the LORD of the ascendent or second; and the better, if any reception happen; but BEWARE it be not by
Square
or
Opposition;
for that spoils all
Hoosons
Miner's Dictionary, article
virgula divinatoria.
.
Thus cut, it is laid by for use on a heap of wheat or barley; and from the rod of
Moses,
was also profanely called the
Mosaical
rod. This was to be held by the forks in both hands; and carried over the grounds suspected to contain the ore. It went unaffected over all the barren spots; but no sooner did it impend over a vein, than it pressed strongly down, and seemed to feel the same attraction as is between iron and the magnet. The sensible
Agricola
speaks of this practice incidentally; and gives a long account of the process; but places no kind of faith in it, assuring us, that the skilful miner should follow the natural signs of the mineral veins, and despise the use of these enchanted sticks. He traces their origin from imposture. The magicians of
Pharaoh
made use of wands in their deception of the serpents:
Minerva,
by virtue of a wand, turned the aged Ulysses into a young man; and again to his former state:
Circe,
by the magical powers of a rod, changed his companions into beasts: And lastly,
Mercury,
by the same means, impelled the watchful to sleep, and the sleepy to wake
Agricola, de Re Metallica,
lib.
ii. p. 26, 27.
. Let me now return to realities!
THE miners, in the earlier times of the
Romans
in
Britain,
seem to have been the subdued natives.
Galgacus
encourages his soldiers to conquer or die, by laying before them the dreadful consequences of a defeat;
Tributa et
METALLA,
et caeterae servientium panae.
Tributes and mines, and all the dire penalties of slavery.
Agricola
himself verifies the prophetic spirit of our brave chieftain, by calling our mines the reward of victory. These were to be worked, not by the conquerors, but by condemned criminals, by slaves
Diodorus Siculus,
lib. v. c. 2. gives a melancholy account of these slaves; whose state can only be paralleled by the poor
Indians
in the mines of
Potost.
, and
Britons
newly subjugated. It is probable, that when the island was entirely settled, this badge of slavery was taken away, and the miners were, as before the arrival of the
Romans,
voluntary laborers.
WHEN the ore was got, it was cleansed according to the modern method, and smelted in a furnace
Plinii,
lib.
xxxiv. c. 16.
, and cast into forms very nearly resembling the common pigs of lead.
OF such,
ROMAN PIGS OF LEAD
I have seen three, found in different parts of Britain: the one in
Hints,
common, in the manor of
Ralph Floyer
esquire, in the county of Stafford, in the year 1771. It was found under ground, at the depth of four feet. Its length is twenty-two inches and a half; the weight a hundred and fifty-two pounds, about two pounds heavier than our common pigs of lead. On the upper surface is a rim; within that, in raised capitals, struck when the metal was hot, is this inscription: IMP.x.VESP
VII
xTxIMPx
V
xCOS. or
Imperatore
VESPASIANO
Septimùm
TITO
Imperatore quintùm Consule:
which answers to the year 75 or 76.
ON one side is the word DECEA, and at a distance the letter G. An ingenious Anonymous, in the Gentleman's
Magazine
of 1772, conjectures it to have been a C, made by the superintendant of the mine, or furnace, to shew either that the pig had paid duty, or was of due weight, or of proper purity. For my part, I am of opinion, that DECEA had once between it and the G, the letter N; which will render it DECEANG, or
de Ceangis,
the place which produced the ore; but by some accident that letter was defaced, and the G left seemingly unconnected. This explanation will fling light on certain pieces of lead described by
Cambden,
to be taken notice of a few lines lower.
THIS curious antiquity is in the cabinet of Mr.
Green,
apothecary in
Litchfield;
whose collection merits the attention of the inquisitive traveller; who may be assured of the most liberal reception from the worthy owner.
IN 1731, two pigs of the same kind, and of the same length, were discovered on
Hayshaw
moor, in the manor of
Dacre,
in the west riding of
Yorkshire,
on the estate of Sir
John Ingleby
of
Ripley.
One is preserved by the family: the other was presented to the
British Museum.
These also have an imperial inscription on the top;
Imperatore
CAESARE DOMITIANO AUGUSTO
Consule Septimum.
This was cast in the year 87, and under the same regulation, The other pig, which I saw at
Ripley Hall,
has the same inscription; and on one side the word
Brig,
signifying that it came from the country of the
Brigantes
Vide tab. IX.
.
IN the time of
Cambden,
twenty pieces of lead, similar to the above, were found near
Halton
in
Cheshire;
some inscribed, IMP. DOMIT. AUG. C. DE CEANG.; others, IMP. VESP. VII. T. IMP. V. COSS. These have been supposed to commemorate a victory over the
Cangi;
but it is evident that they were nothing more than pigs of lead brought here for use, or for transportation: and I am farther satisfied, that the ore which produced this lead was dug and smelted, either in that part of
Flintshire
antiently called
Tegangle,
or the summer's residence of the
Cangi,
or
Ceangi;
or from the residence of the same order of people either in
Derbyshire,
or some neighboring county. This gives reason to suspect, that these
Cangi,
during their long vacant time, might sometimes engage in mineral concerns; and then the ore, when smelted, might receive the mark of the people from whom it was received. The pig of lead in Mr.
Green
's cabinet, certainly came from the
Cangi
of
Derbyshire.
FROM the regulation mentioned by
Pliny,
and all these imperial inscriptions, it is clear, that the public took the mineral concerns into its own hands; and had their stamp-masters in proper places. I cannot pretend to fix the period of the first establishment. If the inscription to
Claudius
Cambden, I. 83. Horsely, 328.
, on a mass of lead found in
Henry
VIII.'s time, near
Wokey Hole
in
Somersetshire,
be of the same kind with the former, it must have been within the year 49, the time of his ninth tribuneship.
THE
Romans
found such plenty of silver in the
Spanish
mines, that for some time they never thought it worth their labor to extract it from lead
Strabo,
lib.
iii. p. 221.
. In later times, they discovered an ore that contained silver, tin, and lead; and these three metals were smelted from it. It appears, that the first product was the tin; the second, the silver; and what
Pliny
calls
Galaena,
which was left behind in the furnace, and seems to be the same with our
litharge,
and being melted again, became lead, or, as the antients called it (to distinguish it from white lead or tin)
black lead
Plinii,
lib.
xxxiv. c. 16.
.
THE
British
name of lead is lost. The only word we have to express an ore is
mwyn;
but the species is expressed by an adjunct, as
mwyn aur,
gold,
mwyn plwm,
lead ore; both which were probably derived from the
Latin.
The
Romans
made use of the word
metallum
to express ore, as well as the metal fused from it: the word
minera
is a word of a barbarous age, and probably derived from our
mwyn.
I SHALL finish this account of the
Roman
state of the lead concerns, with observing, that they appeared to have been well versed in metallurgy, and to have had their smelting-houses. The ruder
Britons,
before their conquest by the
Romans,
had a very simple process. They placed the ore in a hole in the ground, and mixed it with wood; which being fired, proved sufficient to melt the lead out of the soft and kindly ores of this country; a small gutter communicated with a second hole, into which the metal ran from the first. These artless slag-hearths are very frequent in our county, discovered by the quantity of
scoria
mixed with charcoal. Some of our modern smelters have endeavoured to extract the remaining part of the metal from these slags, but in vain; the antient smelters having so effectually done their business, as not to have left behind sufficient to pay the expences of a second operation: the most that could be procured from a ton of slags, amounting only to about a hundred and fifty pounds weight.
I CANNOT tell what use the
Britons
made of the metal, excepting as an article of commerce. I must not dare to assent to the tale of the venerable
Bede
Lib. i. c. 2. p. 42.
, who says, that the stakes driven into the
Thames,
to obstruct the passage of
Caesar,
were wrapped round with lead. The project was useless, This expedient of the
Britons
was temporary; the stakes did not require such a covering to preserve them; and the metal of lead was surely very improper to point them with.
I am of opinion, that there had been in our country a succession of founderies of lead, from the time of the
Romans
to the present, at every period in which the civil commotions would permit them to be carried on. The
Saxons
worked the
British
mines as well as the
Romans,
and made frequent use of the lead in all works of ecclesiastial magnificence. The cathedral of
Lindisfarn
Bede
Hist, lib, iii. c. 25. p. 131.
was roofed with lead by its bishop
Eadberct,
about the year 652; that of
York
was covered with the same metal by its great prelate
Wilfrid
Eddii vit. Wilfridi,
in
Gale iii. 59.
, in 669; and after that,
Egelric,
who was elected abbot of
Crowland
in 975, roofed the infirmary and chapel of that famous abby in a similar manner
Ingulphi
Hist. apud
Cambden.
Script, post.
Bedem.
888.
. I mention these circumstances merely to shew, that the
Saxons
continued the business of smelting in the different parts of our island. We are assured that there have been, at different times, smelting-works for a century or two past in the parishes of
Flint
and
Hawarden;
and at present there is one in use in each of them.
I shall take this opportunity of mentioning incidentally the other minerals of
Greet Britain,
taken notice of by the antients, either as articles of trade or matters of curiosity.
TIN was aot only the first metal in these islands which we read of;
TIN
but also the greatest object of commerce; and which originally led to the discovery of
Great Britain
by the
Romans.
The mercantile
Phoenicians
traded to the
Silley
islands, the
Cassiterides,
or land of tin, from the port of
Cadiz,
four hundred years before CHRIST. The
Romans,
for a considerable space, could not discover the place from whence the former procured the precious, metal. They attempted to detect the trade, by following the course of a
Phoenician
vessel; but the master, faithful to the interest of his country, voluntarily run his ship ashore in another, place; preferring the loss of all, rather than suffer a foreign nation to become partakers of so profitable a secret. The public immediately compensated his loss out of its treasury. This did but make the
Romans
more eager after the discovery; and after many trials, succeeded.
Publius Crassus
(father of
Marcus Crassus
the
Triumvir)
who was praetor, and governed
Spain
for several years, landed in the
Cassiterides,
and found the report of their riches verified
Strabo,
lib. iii. p. 265. to 309
.
As soon as the
Romans
made a conquest of the country, they formed in the tin province camps and roads, still visible; and left behind vases, urns, sepulchres, and money, that exhibit daily proofs of their having been a stationary people in those parts
Borlase, Antiq. Cornwall. p. 278.
; and that
Dunmonium
extended even to the
Belerian
promontory, or the Land's-end; and was not, as some writers imagine, limited by the western parts of
Somersetshire.
IT is not to be imagined, that they could neglect a corner of our island, productive of a metal so useful in mechanics as tin, and which it yielded in such plenty, as to receive from that circumstance the name. So great was the intercourse that foreign nations had with the inhabitants bordering on
Belerium,
as to give them a greater
sçavoir vivre,
and more extensive hospitality, than was to be found in other parts of the island. They were equally expert in working the mines, and preparing the ore, which lay in earthy veins within the rocky strata. They melted and purified it, then cast it into rows of cubes, and carried it to
Ictis,
the modern Isle of
Wight:
from thence it was transported into
Gaul;
conveyed from the place, it was landed at, on horses backs, a journey of thirty days, to the mouth of the
Rhone,
and then to the
Massylians,
and the town of
Narbon
Diodorus Siculas, Ed. Wechel, 1604.
pp.
209, 218.
.
WITH tin the
Romans
made mirrors; lined their vessels of brass to prevent its deadly effects
Plinii,
lib. xxxiv. c. 17.
; made pewter, and from that a variety of domestic vessels; and, by the combination of other metals, formed a substance that mimicked silver
Ibid.
: so that a country, abundant in so useful an ore, would never be neglected by these wise people.
DID not
Caesar
and
Strabo
agree in their account,
COPPER
I should never have believed it was possible that the
Britons
could have neglected their rich mines of copper, and have been obliged at first to have imported that metal. Perhaps the ore was less accessible, and the art of fusion unknown; for islands, from their very situation, must remain longer ignorant of arts than continents; especially ours, which lay far to the west of the origin of all science.
STRABO says, that they imported works of brass; but it is as certain, that they afterwards did themselves fabricate that metal into instruments. The
Celts,
a
British
instrument, was made in this island. Numbers have been found in
Yorkshire
and in
Essex
Borlase, Antiq. 265, 266.
, together with cinders, and lumps of melted metal; which evince the place of a forge. We cannot ascertain the period when the
Britons
had the art of adding the mixture of lead
Plinii,
lib. xxxiv. c. 9.
that is found combined with them; or whether they learned it from their conquerors, who were fully possessed of the art of fusing this, as well as other metals, is unknown. The
Romans
had their founderies of copper in our island; and cast the metal into regular forms. A mass was found at
Caer hėn,
the antient
Conarium,
four miles above
Conway,
which probably was smelted from the ore of the
Snowdon
hills; where of late years much has been got. This mass is in shape of a cake of bees-wax; and on the upper part is a deep concave impression, with the words SOCIO ROMAE; across these is impressed obliquely, in lesser letters,
Natsol.
I cannot explain it, unless
Nat.
stands for
natio,
the people who paid this species of tribute; and
sol.
for
solvit,
that being the stamp-master's mark. These cakes might be bought up by a merchant resident in
Britain,
and consigned SOCIO ROMAE, to his partner at
Rome.
The weight of this antiquity is forty-two pounds; the diameter of the upper part eleven inches; the thickness in the middle two and three quarters
Tab. ix. This curious antiquity is preserved at
Mostyn.
.
CALAMINE,
CALAMINE.
the
Cadmia
of
Pliny
Lib. xxxiv. c. 10.
, and the stone-
Cadmia
of
Strabo
Lib, iii. 248.
, abounds in the mineral parts of this island. The
Romans
knew its uses in making of brass; therefore cannot be supposed to have overlooked so necessary an ingredient. The remains of the brass-founderies, discovered in our kingdom, shew, that they were acquainted with it. The knowlege of this mineral in after-ages was long lost. Before the reign of
Elizabeth,
much was imported from
Sweden;
but at that period it was discovered again in the
Mendip
hills; and, fortunately, at the same time that the working of the copper mines in those of
Cumberland.
was renewed. Our county abounds with it; but, till within these sixty years, we were so ignorant of its value, as to mend our roads with it.
CAESAR and
Strabo
Caesar. Com. Strabo, lib. iv.
p.
305.
allow that we had iron.
IRON.
The first says that it was rare; far bits of it passed for money by weight. In
Strabo
's days it was found in greater plenty; for he mentions it among the articles of exportation. Immense beds of iron-cinders are to this day found in the forest of
Dean,
the reliques of the
Romans;
others in
Monmouthshire;
another was discovered near
Miskin,
the seat of
William Basset,
Esq
beneath which were found a coin of
Antoninus Pius,
and a piece of earthen ware
Archaelog.
ii. 14.
; and finally, others in
Yorkshire
Yarranton
's
Improvements,
57.
Leland, Itin.
i. 144. vi. 102.
Cambden,
ii. 722.
, also accompanied with coins: all which evince the frequency of iron-founderies during the period of the
Roman
reign in
Britain.
These cinders are not half exhausted of their metal; for the
Romans
knew only the weak powers of the foot-blast. They are now worked over again, and are found to yield a more kindly metal than what is produced from the ore. These beds are supposed to be almost inexhaustible; a proof of the vast founderies of early times.
GOLD and silver are enumerated
Strabo,
lib. iv. p. 305.
among the products of
Great Britain.
GOLD
The
Romans
were acquainted with this; and our precious metals proved another incentive to their ambition to effect our conquest.
Agricola,
in his oration to his soldiers before the battle of the
Grampian
mountain, excites them to victory, by reminding them of our riches, the reward or valor.
Fert
BRITANNIA,
aurum et argentum, et alia metalla pretium victoriae
Vita Agr.
.
THESE metals have, in later times, been got in quantities sufficient to prove, that they might, in earlier time, be an object worthy of conquest. In the reigns of
James
IV. and V. vast wealth was procured in the
Lead Hills,
from the gold collected from the sand washed from the mountain. In the reign of the latter, not less than three hundred thousand pounds
Sterling.
In another place, a piece of thirty ounces weight was found. Much was also obtained in the time of the Regent
Morton
Tour in
Scotland,
ii. 130. iii, 414.
. The search is now given over; but still bits are found accidentally. Lord
Hopton,
owner of the
Lead Hills,
is in possession of one that weighs an ounce and a half.
GOLD is to this day found in
Cornwall,
mixed with tin and other substances
Borlase.
Nat. Hist.
Cornwall,
213, 214.
. The largest piece that has been yet discovered, is equal in weight to three guineas. It is probable that it was the
Cornish
gold which proved the lure to the
Romans;
for it was impossible they or the
Phoenicians
could be ignorant of it, who had such long commerce with the country, and who were acquainted with the manner of obtaining it in other places.
Pliny,
speaking of tin, says, that there is found in the gold mines of
Spain
and
Portugal,
a sort called
Elutia,
(which a
Cornish
man would call
stream tin
) being washed from the vein by water, and was gathered up in baskets along with the gold
Lib. xxxiv. c. 16. To prevent antiquaries being further misled about the
Ampthill
gold mine, I must inform them, that it proved only a bed of
mica curea;
or, to speak like a punster, turned out nothing but
tal
.
.
STRABO and
Tacitus
agree,
SILVER.
that we had mines of silver. In the reigns of
Edward
I. and III. there were very considerable works at
Combmartin
in
Devonshire
Camb
en, i. 47.
: three hundred and thirty-seven miners, sent for out of
Derbyshire,
were employed in them; and the produce was so great as to assist
Edward
the third to carry on the war with
France.
In the beginning of this century, much native silver was found on the estate of Sir
John Erskine,
in the county of
Stirling;
but the vein was soon exhausted.
THE BRITONS were acquainted with the uses of gold and the art of coining before the arrival of the
Romans;
witness the golden sickles of the
Druids,
the coins found at
Carnbre
in
Cornwall,
and the coins of
Cassivelaunus.
They made use of different sorts of metals; but mostly of gold, being the easiest fused, and most capable of an impression. Doctor
Borlase
has preserved a series of these very early coins, from the rudest and most unintelligible impressions, to the period when the
Britons
made an attempt to form a face on their coins. All these are unlettered; a proof of their antiquity, and of their having been struck before their intercourse with the
Romans.
The first we know of, which is inscribed, is that of
Cassrvelaunus,
cotemporary with
Caesar.
The next is of
Cunobeline,
who had even been at
Rome.
As soon as the
Britons
became acquainted with the
Romans,
they made an essay to imitate their manner of coining; they put letters on them, elephants, and gryphons; things they were before unacquainted with. They were not suffered to make any progress in the art; for as soon as their conquest was effected, their coin was suppressed. The learned have endeavoured to trace these antient monies from the
Phoenicians;
but the comparison would not hold. The
Gauls
alone had some pieces similar: nor is this to be wondered at, since they and the
Britons
had a common origin, were neighbors, and might as well agree in the few arts they had, as in religion and language
Borlase
's
Antiq. Cornwall,
242. tab. xix. tab. lxxxv.
.
I NOW return to the subjects which occassioned this digression; and to give some account of the various antique instruments and coins found near
Flint;
and accompany the same by the more expressive description, a print.
No 1. tab. viii. is a rich ornament of gold, in form of a button with a shank. It is composed elegantly with twisted wire, and studded with little globular bits of solid gold. This seems to have belonged to the bracelet or necklace (it is uncertain which), whose fragment is represented at No 2. This is also composed of gold links, with round beads of a rich blue glass placed between every second link. Something similar to this is preserved by count
Caylus,
which is entire, and appears to have been a necklace
Tom. iii. 312.
.
No 3. is a cylindric fragment of glass, probably part of some ornament, being of a rich blue color, and perforated as if it was designed to be strung. With it was found a thick piece of sea-green glass, part of a vase. Glass was among the earlier imports into
Britain
Strabo, 305.
, when the wild natives were as much captivated with toys as the
Indians
of new-discovered countries are at present. At first they received these, and all their other vitreous commodities, by means of the
Phaenicians,
whose capital,
Tyre,
was pre-eminent in that manufacture. The
glain nadroedd,
or snake-gems, were at first obtained by way of exchange for the
British
exports. They were originally made by the
Britons
of stone. I have such a one in my cabinet. I have seen another in possession of the Reverend Mr.
Hugh Davies,
found in
Anglesea.
The traders soon learned to imitate what was prized so high in our island, in a more elegant material; and imported them as a most captivating article of commerce; in the same manner as circum navigators often mimic, in shewy brass, the utensils and weapons of
Indian
nations, in order to engage their friendship.
No 4. is a small brazen head, with the back part affixed to iron. Perhaps this was one of the
Sigillaria,
or little images sold at the fairs, and presented usually to children
Non cognoscis me? ego sum
Policio,
cui solebas sigillaria afferre. SENICA, Epist. 12.
: and the fairs where these toys were sold went by the same name. A learned friend also supposes these to be miniature likenesses, which friends presented to each other as memorials.
No 5. is a
Stylus,
or instrument for writing on the
ceratae tabellae,
or waxen tablets; which were made of thin leaves of lead, brass, or ivory, and covered with a thin coat of wax. The pen, if I may call it so, was usually of brass; one end pointed, in order to write; the other flatted, in order to efface what was wrong, by smoothing or closing the wax.
Horace
gives every writer most excellent advice, in alluding to this practice:
Saepe
Stylum
vertas, iterum quae digna legi sint,
Scripturns.
Oft turn your style, when you intend to write
Things worthy to be read.
No ; 6. is an instrument of very singular use: a narrow species of spoon, destined to collect, at funerals, the tears of the relations of the deceased, in order to deposit them in the little phials which were placed with the ashes in the urn, memorials of their grief. Such are very frequently found: but the custom is far higher than that of classical antiquity; for the PSALMIST, in expressing his sorrows, alludes to it; THOU
tellest my flittings; put my tears into thy bottle.
No 7. is an instrument seemingly designed for the purpose of dressing the wicks of lamps.
No 8. may possibly be destined for the same uses.
No 9. is a brazen bodkin.
No 10. is a
fibula
or brotche, gilt, and enameled with deep blue in front.
No 11. is a brotche, not unlike some used at present by the common Highlanders; whose dress, in its genuine simplicity, seems to have been borrowed from the
Romans.
No 12. is also a species of button; but differs from the modern (as do all I have seen) by having no shank: instead, was a tongue, similar to those of the common
fibulae.
The front of this is enameled with deep blue.
No 13. is another, of a very different form. This has also lost its
fibulae;
but the defect is very apparent.
No 14. is a
forceps;
an instrument much in vogue among the
Romans,
for extirpating hairs. This was used for the same purpose as the
Turkish
fair do the
Rusma.
The pincers here engraven are of great size and strength; perhaps used by some robust coxcomb, such as
Persius
rallies so severely, in his fourth satire, for his unbecoming effeminacy.
No 15. 15. seem to have been instruments of sacrifice. One end of each is round, and of the form of an olive; and was intended for the use of the
aruspices,
to insinuate under the entrails of the victim, and to lift them up for the better inspection of the parts. The other extremity of the longer is formed into a spoon, for the purpose of putting the frankincense into the censer.
ACCORDING to the uncertainty that reigns respecting the uses of the antient instruments, I may hazard another conjecture, that they have been chirurgical instruments. The rounded ends were the probes; the hollow end of the longer, the spoon by which the balm was poured into the wound. The metal of which these instruments were made, proves, as count
Caylus
remarks
Recueil d'Antiquitez, iv. 169.
,
that the
Romans
had no apprehensions of its dangerous qualities. It is probable, that they had the art of tempering the metal so as to prevent the noxious effects.
No 16. is a brass nail
. Antiquaries may rejoice that the
Romans
preferred this metal to mouldering iron, which has preserved to them many a delicious morsel.
No 17. tab. ix. is one of those
Bullae,
or amulets, called
Ithyphallus,
in form of a heart, with a figure (in which decency was little consulted) on the upper part. These were suspended from the necks of children, and originally designed to preserve them from the effects of envy; afterwards from all kinds of evil
Pueris turpicula res in collo quaedam suspenditur, ne quid obsit bonae scaevae causa. VARRO de Ling. Lat. vi.
. I cannot help thinking, that the good nurses had another view, that of attracting (in years of maturity) the affections of the fair towards their little favorite.
Hunc optent generum Rex et Regina; puell
e
Hunc rapiant. Quicquid calcaverit hic, Rosa fiat.
Wherever he treads let there rise up a rose,
And the ladies die for him wherever he goes.
For it is well known, the obscene god, in all times, had his votaries among both sexes.
THESE amulets also represented the god
Fascinus,
synonymous with that Deity.
Pliny
Lib. xxviii, c. 4.
relates, that he was not only the guardian of infants, but of the emperors themselves; that the very vestals worshipped him; and the victors placed him (the physician of Envy) beneath their triumphal cars.
No 18. is a locket with a hole at one end, in order to suspend it round the neck, or fasten it to the wrist. This, perhaps, was designed to hold a charm; and the holes on one side intended that the contents should transpire, and reach the object of fascination; whether of love; whether of ambition.
No 19. a key; which gives one no very high idea of the elegance of the
Roman
locksmiths.
No 20. is one of a nicer form, and which served both for a ring and key. It possibly was designed for the cabinet of a
Roman
lady or some
Bellus homo.
No 21. two rings; one of brass, the other of silver wire.
No 22. a brazen weight belonging to a mason's levelling-instrument, answerable to a modern plummet.
No 23. another of lead, belonging to a fishing-net.
No 24. the tongue of an ordinary
fibula.
THESE are the subjects I thought most worthy of engraving: but there were multitudes of other things found in the same place; but almost all of them so mutilated or injured by time, as to be rendered quite unintelligible.
ON leaving
Flint,
FINE PROSPECT.
I took the road to
Halkin;
and immediately on quitting the town, began to ascend the steep slope of the county, fertile, and inclosed to the very edge of the mountain, which was parallel with the shore. The prospect improves the whole way; and from the heights expands to the north-east and south, into an almost boundless one. The estuary of the
Dee
appears beneath, with the city of
Chester
at its extremity. The peninsula of
Wiral,
a naked contrast to our country, limits the eastern side of our sea; and the western of the
Mersey,
rich in the commerce of
Leverpool;
beyond which stretches the great county of
Lancashire,
varying with plains and hills. The mountains of
Yorkshire
and
Derbyshire
unite to bound the VALE ROYAL of
England;
and the rich and wooded tract about
Northop
and
Hawarden,
with its neighboring mountains, bring relief to the eye, tired with the contemplation of the far remote views.
THIS is but part of the magnificent terras formed by the public road, that is continued from
Hawarden
to
Clynnog
in
Caernarvonshire,
varying continually with matchless changes of scenery.
THE first place of any note which occurs in the parish of
Halkin,
HALKIN.
is a hamlet of a number of houses, called the
Pen-tre,
or hamlet; a name in
Wales
common to all such assemblages of dwellings, where there is no church; to distinguish it from
Llan,
where the place of devotion stands. This took its rise in the present century, and was much increased by the concourse of miners, on the discovery of a rich vein in the adjacent fields.
ALMOST contiguous, lies
Halkin
mountain; a vast tract, in the parish of the same name, and in those of
Northop, Skeiviog,
and
Holywell.
THE surface is common: the mineral the property of Lord
Grosvenour,
by virtue of a grant, made in 1634, to his ancestor, Sir
Richard Grosvenour
knight, by
Charles
I. of all the mines of lead or rakes of lead, within the hundreds of
Coleshill
and
Rudland
Harleian
MSS. No 2002. 9.
. These tracts were before set on leases for a certain term of years. Thus
James
I. grants that term to
Richard Gwynne,
on payment of the annual acknowlegement of sixty-six shillings and eight pence; and a new one was granted in 1629, by a warrant from lord treasurer
Weston,
to
Richard Grosvenour
Esq
Roger Grosvenour
his son, and Mr.
Thomas Gamul,
for their joint lives, paying the usual rent, and a fine of ten pounds
Ibid.
.
I APPREHEND that this grant, and another similar, of the minerals in
Bromefield
and
Yale,
made to the same gentleman, are the first alienations of this nature from the crown; which, for many centuries after the Conquest, assumed the entire claim of all mines and minerals, by virtue of the royal prerogative. Sir
John Pettus
Fodinae Regales,
from p, 11. to 19.
has preserved a series of grants, from the reign of
Edward
I. to that of
Henry
VII. in which they empower different persons to scarch for ore. Some of them are confined to particular counties, others to the kingdom in general: and the only prohibition is that of working beneath castles or houses; in gardens or meadows; the owners of which were to be indemnified in all damages they might sustain.
Richard
II. is the first prince who makes a general allowance. In his letters patent to
Richard Wake,
clerk, for searching for mines of gold and silver in the county of
Devon
for ten years, the adventurer had power to dig (paying damage to the owner of the ground) as well within liberties as without; and to pay one-tenth of the profit to the Holy Church, and a ninth into the exchequer.
THIS is not the first instance of the application of the tithe of ore to religious uses:
Edward
I. directs the same proportion to be payed to the parochial churches in
Wales,
out of the neighboring mines
Rotull Wallia (
Sir
Joseph Ayloff's) 75.
. The abby of
Basingwork
had also a revenue arising from the same source
Tanner's
Notit.
Monast. 711.
.
I CANNOT find that the owner of the ground, in case the mine was discovered in private property, was permitted to have any share of the profit, till the fifth of
Henry
VI. (1426); when the duke of
Bedford,
regent of
France,
received a ten years leafe of all the mines of gold and silver in the kingdom of
England,
paying to Holy Church a tenth, to the king a fifteenth, and to the lord of the soil the twentieth part. This allotment, though finall, is a proof of the justice and moderation that guided the actions of the protector of
Henry
's infant years.
THESE regal grants were for every species of metal, excepting iron; for gold and silver, copper, tin and lead, and all other metals containing gold and silver. These two were the great object; yet the grants do not preclude the royal clame to the baser kinds.
DURING this reign, the art of refining, or the separation of metals from the ore, was made the ground of an imposture common enough in after times. There are not fewer than four instances of persons undertaking the transmutation of the baser metals into pure gold and silver; each of whom received the royal protection
Rymer's Foedera,
xi 68. 128. 240. 309.
Henry
IV. had passed an act, that
none shall use to multiply gold or silver, nor use the craft of multiplication; and if any the same do, that he incur penalty of felony.
This was aimed at persons, who, under pretence of transmutation, counterfeited the nobler metals. But afterwards it was found a check on the metallurgic art; as it extended even to the punishment of any ingenious refiner, who had discovered the method of getting more gold and silver out of the baser kinds than was known before, which occasioned the repeal of the act, in the first year of
William
and
Mary,
c. 30.
, to prevent them from being interrupted in their operations: for certain malevolent people supposed they used unlawful arts,
i. e.
the art magic. In a supersticious age, this suspicion might have proved fatal to the projectors; who wisely assumed the most religious term for their mystery, to obviate the malice of their enemies. The metals were not to be transmuted, but
transubstantiated
Ibid.
; for they had great reason to imagine, that the believers of the word in the religious sense, would hardly contradict the feasibility of the project in the temporal meaning. Besides, they were to act under the guise of piety; for the adept
must be
bomo frugi;
A pious, holy, and religious man,
One free from mortal sin, a very virgin
Ben Jonson's
Alchemist.
.
We hear nothing of the event of these undertakings; but imagine they ended like all others of that nature. The bubble did not die with this weak prince; for in 1476, we find that
Edward
IV. gave the same encouragement to one
David Beaupe
and
John Marchaunt,
to have for four years
facultatem et scientiam philosophiae artificialem naturalem generationis a mercurio in aurum faciendo, et simili modo a mercurio in argentum:
the liberty of changing
mercury
into gold and silver
Rymer, xii. 28.
. We hear no more of these impostures till the reigns of
Elizabeth
and
James
I. when they were most successfully revived
Vide Life of Doctor
Dee, Ben Jonson's
Alchemist,
&c.
.
EDWARD continued the mineral grants to several great men; among others to the earl of
Warwick,
the earl of
Northumberland,
and his brother
Richard
earl of
Gloster.
The farm was now encreased; they were to pay the king an eighth neat profit, the lord of the soil the ninth, and the curate of the place the tenth.
IN the short and turbulent reign of
Richard
III. no attention was paid to concerns of this kind; but his successor,
Henry
VII. in his very first year, discovered his ruling passion, avarice, by immediately appointing
Jasper
duke of
Bedford,
and several other persons of distinction, to be governors of all his mines in
England
and in
Wales,
paying to the king the fifteenth
Moses Stringer,
author of
Opera Mineralia explicata,
calls it the
fifth,
which suits better the character of that monarch.
of the
pure
gold and silver, and to the lord of the soil the eleventh,
as it grows.
ELIZABETH was the first of our princes who laid the foundation for our mineral success, and for all the vast manufactures that arose in consequence. I read, that in 1452,
Henry
VI.
Rymer, xi. 317.
, (possibly on discovery of the imposture of metallic transmutations) had sent for, out of
Hungary, Austria,
and
Bohemia,
three experienced miners, and thirty assistants, to work his mines; so unskilled were the
English
at that time. The civil wars, which broke out immediately after, frustrated this wise measure.
Elizabeth
resumed it, being too quick-sighted not to see into the defects and wants of her kingdom. She not only adopted it, but improved on the plan. Our knowlege of minerals was almost extinguished, and of course the manufactures which depended on them. We imported our swords, our knives, stirrups, bits, and even our pins, out of
Germany,
through the channel of the
Netherlands.
Our works of brass, and even our wire, excepting a small quantity which was worked by hand, were of foreign fabrick. The first step taken by this politic princess, was to forbid the importation of these and several other articles, from parts beyond sea
Statute 5th
Elizabeth,
c. 7.
: the next, was to invite into her kingdom foreign miners, foreign smelters, and foreign artificers of metallic productions.
SHE next formed a corporation, under the title of THE SOCIETY FOR THE MINES ROYAL. The first governor was
William
earl of
Pembroke:
several men of rank were joined in the commission as assistants, and several citizens, and some foreigners of known experience in these matters. She likewise framed the same members into another corporation, which naturally depended on the former,
viz.
the SOCIETY FOR THE MINERALS AND BATTERY WORKS. These corporations were founded on
May
the 28th 1567.
SOME progress had been made, a few years before, for the procuring materials for these new manufactures; for in 1563, she had granted the mines of eight counties, besides those in
Wales,
to
Daniel Houghsetter:
in 1564, she made another grant to
Cornelius Devosse;
and a third in the same year, more comprehensive than all, to
Christopher Shutz,
of all mines, minerals, and subterraneous treasures, (except copperas and allum) which shall be found in all other parts of
England
(not mentioned in the former patent) or within the
English
pale in
Ireland,
by the name of gold, silver, copper, tin, lead, quicksilver,
cadmian
ore, or
lapis calaminaris;
and all manner of ewres or oares, simple or pure, mixt or compounded for latten wire or steel,
&c.
To each of these patentees an
Englishman
was joined.
IT is worth observing, that the crown, in most of these grants, lays absolute clame to all mines whatsoever, under a notion that they are royal mines; yet the prerogative could only be entitled to such which yielded gold and silver. The origin of this pretence arose from the king's right of coinage, in order that he might have the requisite materials; which would have confined him to the two noble metals. But until the happy period arrived when our constitution was established, and the royal and the private property justly distinguished, the subject was too weak to assert his rightful clame. ELIZABETH herself was too fond of the darling prerogative (even with all her boasted love to her people) to resign this part. Her patent to
William Humfrey
and
Christopher Shutz
is worded in the most unlimited manner; for it not only gave them power to sink shafts wheresoever they pleased (gardens,
&c.
excepted), but to build houses requisite to carry on the works, not only upon the royal demesnes, but in the grounds of any of her subjects. The spirited
Percies,
in the person of
Thomas
earl of
Northumberland,
first withstood this invasion of his right. He contested with the crown the title to the copper mines in his manor of
Keswick;
but the lawyers decided against him, alleging, that although the crown had a power to grant away its manors, it had not the power to alienate the mineral, being perfectly linked to the prerogative of the crown.
BUT, as usual, the gentlemen of the long robe had two opinions respecting this point: some asserting, that if any gold or silver was found in the mines of baser metal, the whole would belong to the king; which, in fact, was bestowing all the mineral property on the crown, there being scarcely any base metal but what holds some particles of the nobler: others again, in a future reign, qualified this by saying,
That although the gold or silver contained in the base metal of a mine, in the hands of a subject, be of less value than the base metal, yet if the gold or silver do countervail the charge of resining it, or be of more worth than the base metal spent in resining it, THIS IS A ROYAL MINE; and as well the base metal as the gold and silver in it, belong to the prerogative of the crown
This opinion was given in 1640, 1641, and subscribed by
Maynard, Glaw ville,
and others, the first
vers of the time.
.
SUCH was the state of the royal clame; so discouraging to the industry of the subject, till the great event of the REVOLUTION, when the crown, in the first year of
William
and
Mary,
fully gave up all pretensions to the mines of copper, tin, iron, and lead, notwithstanding gold or silver may be extracted from them in any quantities. By a following act, this right was again confirmed; only the crown reserved to itself a power of purchasing, within thirty days after raising, all ores made merchantable, at the following rates: copper at 16
l. per
ton, tin at 40
l.
lead at 9 l.; and in default of such payment, the owners were at liberty to dispose of their ore as they pleased. Thus, as Mr. BLACKSTON
COMMENTARIES, 4 to, i. 294.
observes, the private owners were not discouraged from working mines, through a fear that they may be clamed as royal; neither does the king depart from the just rights of his revenue, since he may have all the precious metal contained in the ore, paying no more for it than the value of the base metal is supposed to be; to which base metal the land-owner is by reason and law entitled.
SOME account of the ores and fossils of the mineral tract, which gave rise to this digression, will be given when I cross it again in the course of my journey.
FROM
Pentre Halkin,
I pursued my journey along the
Chester
road: and pass by the
Llan.
The church is dedicated to St.
Mary;
is a neat small edifice, lately re-built, partly by a brief, partly by subscription. It stood on the site of a church, mentioned in Doomsday book. At the Conquest, this tract bore the name of
Alchene,
from which the present name is taken.
Brunford,
a township now in the parish of
Holywell,
and a place called
Inglecroft,
at that time were joined to it. Doomsday book says, that here was a church and a presbyter, and three boors; a mill of five shillings annual value; and a wood half a league long, and forty perches broad; the whole valued at ten shillings.
THE old
British
name of this place (still retained by the
Welsh
) is
Lugan,
from a saint, known, I believe, only in the
Welsh
calendar.
ABOUT two or three miles farther, in a woody morass on the left hand, are the foundations of an antient pile, called
Llýs Edwin,
or Llýs Llan
Eurgain,
originally the seat of
Edwin ap Gronw,
lord of
Tegangle,
about the year 1041. It continued in the family till the death of a descendant of his,
Howel Gwynedd,
who lost his life in the cause of
Glendwr;
when his forfeited estates were bestowed by
Henry
IV. on one
Bryan Saxton.
His posterity possessed them till the 17th of
Henry
VI. who granted them to Sir
John Stanley,
groom of the bedchamber
History of the house of
Starley,
28.
. They afterwards became the property of a younger branch of the
Stanleys,
and remained in their possession in the last century. I find a Sir
Edward Stanley
of
Flint
Collins
's Peerage, ii. 453.
, married to a daughter of
George
lord
Stanley,
about the latter end of the reign of
Henry
VII. who probably was owner of this place.
I MUST not pass unnoticed a strong
British
post, which soars above the road,
MOEL Y GAER.
about two miles to the right. It lies on the summit of a hill, and is surrounded with a great foss and dike of a circular form, with an entrance as usual to such places; and a small artificial mount within the precinct; a
tribunal cespititium,
from whence our antient heroes might deliver their
araith
or
allocutio,
to animate their followers against the invading strangers. This post is called
Moel y Gaer,
or the hill of the fortress; a name common to several others of similar use. This seems to have been an out post of the
Ordovices,
in order to defend their country against the
Roman
invaders. We shall, towards the end of the volume, have occasion to mention the chain of posts along the
Clwydian
hills, from that next to the sea, to remote and internal parts. Our ancestry disputed the possession of their country by inches. Here they lodged their wives and children; to these places they drove their cattle out of the low country: they established in each numerous garrisons ready to sally forth and repel the foe; or to defend all that was dear to them, should the invaders be hardy enough to attack them in their intrenchments.
IN later times, this spot proved fatal to a valiant partizan of
Owen Glendwr. Howel Gwynedd
(whom we lately mentioned) was surprized in a negligent hour, within this post, and there beheaded.
NORTHOP,
NORTHOP
a little town, lies next on the road. It bears the addition of
North,
to distinguish it from the other.
Hope.
The
British
name is
Llan Eurgain,
from St.
Eurgen,
daughter of
Malgwyn Gwynedd, ap Caswallon Law-hir, ap Enion Yrth, ap Cunedda Wledic,
&c. who died in 586.
THE church is dedicated to St.
Peter.
The body is long and embattled: the tower lofty and handsome. Within are three effigiated tombs; one of a fat knight, whose name is lost, and figure much injured by time. Another of a short warrior, completely armed, and in good preservation: on his shield is a cross
pattée,
charged in the middle with a mullet between four others. The inscription is thus,
Hic jacet Ith. Vach. ap Bledd Vach.
I suspect him to have been a captain of
Inglefield,
mentioned in the pedigree of the
Humphreyses
of
Bodlwyddan,
and said to have been interred here. The third is of a lady, inscribed
Llewc
* * * *, and
anno domini
1402. According to tradition, her name was
Lleuci Llwyd,
a celebrated beauty of that period; perhaps the same who was beloved by a noted bard, who coming to visit her after long absence, met with the same shock as the
Chevalier de Rancè
did; for each found their beloved in her coffin. The bard fainted at the sight, revived, and composed an elegy on her. The
Chevalier
retired from the world, and founded the abby of
La Trappe,
famous for its religious austerities.
BETWEEN the eighth and ninth stone,
EULO CATSLE.
about a quarter of a mile out of the
Chester
road, are the ruins of
Eulo
castle, placed on the edge of a deep wooded dingle. It is a small fortress, consisting of two parts: an oblong tower, rounded at the side, and guarded on the accessible places by a strong wall at some distance from it: an oblong yard, with the remains of a circular tower at its extremity, forms the other part. The towers are now finely over-grown with ivy, and command the view of three wooded glens, deep and darksome, forming a most gloomy solitude.
TOMBS AT NORTHOP
IN the woods near this place, called to this day
Coed Eulo,
part of the flower of the army detached by
Henry
II. in 1167, from his camp on
Saltney,
was surprized and defeated by
David
and
Conan,
BATTLE.
the sons of
Owen Gwynedd,
sent by their father with a strong party from his ramp near
Basingwerk.
They suffered the enemy to march along the streights of the country, till their forces were entangled in the depth of woods, and the steeps of the narrow vallies, so frequent in these parts. The attack was sudden, fierce, and unexpected: the Daughter dreadful; and the pursuit carried even to
Henry
's encampment
Powel, 207.
. This proved but a prelude to the
English
of a second defeat. The king, with an intent to repair the disgrace, marched forward with his whole army; and at
Coleshill,
near
Flint,
BATTLE OF COLESHILL
suffered himself to be engaged in the same difficulties as his detachment experienced before. His forces were again defeated; and
Eustace Fitz John,
a baron first in rank, wealth, and abilities among the
English;
and
Robert de Courci,
another great baron, with numbers of others, were slain.
Henry de Essex,
hereditary standard-bearer, and a man of approved valor, was seized with a panic; and flinging down the standard, cried out, that the king was killed
Guil. Neubrig,
lib. ii. c. 5. This is the author whom the
Welsh
call
Gwillim Bach. Brompton,
1048.
! The route would have been general, if the king had not valiantly rallied his forces, and repulsed the
Welsh:
but in the end, he thought it prudent to withdraw his army, and encamp in a secure station. It probably was on the elevated ground of the township of
Colesh
ll,
at
Gadlys,
a name significant of the circumstance,
palatiumcastrense,
or the royal head-quarters. He afterwards attempted to cut off the retreat of
Owen Gwynedd,
by marching along the shore, and getting between him and the mountains; but the wise prince, penetrating into his views, retired to a plain near St.
Asaph,
still called CIL-OWEN, or
Owen's retreat;
and from thence to a strong post, named
Bryn y Pin,
defended by great Tamparts and ditches. This camp lies in the parish of St.
George,
on a lofty rock above the church, and is now called
Pen y Parc.
BRYN DYCHWELWCH
Bryn,
a hill;
Dychwilweh,
return.
, or the eminence on which
Owen
pronounced the order, RETREAT! by its name preserves the memory of the circumstance. It lies over
Pentre Bagilt,
below
Gadlys,
and is supposed to have been the spot from which he retired to
Cil-Owen.
A CIRCUMSTANCE, consequential of this battle, proves, that the report of
Edgar
's having extirpated the race of wolves out of the principality, was erroneous. A young
Welshman,
killed in this battle, was discovered eight days after, attended by his faithful dog, who remained by the corpse the whole time, without food, and defended it from being the prey of birds and wolves
Girald. Cambr. Itin.
lib. ii. c. 10. p. 873.
.
THERE is no sort of tradition about the founder of the castle of
Eulo.
Whether it might not have been built by one of the lords of
Tegangle,
or whether it was erected by
Henry
to prevent a similar disaster, by placing a garrison here, I will pretend not to determine. It has been for centuries in ruins; for
Leland
speaks of it as
a ruinus castle or pile, belonging to
Hoele,
a gentleman of
Flyntshire,
that by auncient accustume was wont to give the bagge of the sylver harpe to the beste harpir of
North Walys,
as by a privelege of his ancestors
Leland Itin.
V. 56.
.
The antiquary adds, 'that he dwellith at
Penrine
in
Flyntshire.'
We know of no such place in the county; but suspect that the gentleman intended was
Thomas ap Richard ap Howel,
lord of
Mostyn,
in whose family that privilege was long invested; that gentleman having been cotemporary with
Leland.
THE manor of
Eulo
was in the crown in the 26th of
Henry
VIII. who granted it to
Peter Stanley
esquire,
MANOR.
gentleman of his houshold, with the tolls of the market of
Flint
Harleian
MSS. No 1968. 10.
In the reign of queen
Elizabeth,
it was held by
Edward Stanley,
by payment of 20
l.
10
s.
a year
The same, No 1970. 7.
. At present it is in possession of
John Davies
esquire, of
Llanerch.
WITHIN this lordship are very considerable potteries of coarse earthen-ware;
POTTERIES.
such as pans, jugs, great pots for butter, plates, dishes, ovens, flower-pots,
&c.
There are fourteen works, which make annually between three and four thousand pounds worth. The ware is mostly exported to
Ireland,
and the towns on the
Welsh
coast; particularly to
Swansey.
There are besides six other works, for the making of fire-bricks, few clays being better fitted for the purpose of resisting the intense heat of the smelting-furnaces. These are made of different sizes; and some of those which are called bearers weigh two hundred pounds. Great quantities of tiles for barn-floors, and for rooms, are also made here; and the annual sale of these two articles amounts to about twelve hundred pounds.
THIS clay is of a deep ash color; is found in beds of a great thickness; and is dug up in hard lumps, resembling a shaley rock; after which it is left for a considerable time exposed to the air, in order to effect its dissolution. The bricks made with it are set in the lead-furnaces with the unburnt clay, instead of mortar.
I must not leave the parish of
Northop
without visiting the maritime parts, which stretch along the channel of the
Dee.
We find there the names of certain townships taken notice of in Doomsday book;
Lead-brook, Normanized
into
Lathroc,
from the
Anglo-Saxon, Laed,
and
Broca
either from the quantity of lead washed out of it, or from the smelting-works established on it. This township, after the Conquest, was held by
Robert
of
Rudland.
ULFMILTONE was another, now known by the name of
Golftyn.
WEPRE, another township, was held by
William de Malbedeng,
from the church of
Chester.
It is twice mentioned in Doomsday book; and is said to have had on it a wood a league and a half long. In one place mention is made of two villeyns and two boors: in another, of one villeyn and a
radman;
and that it had been possessed by one
Ernui,
a freeman. Of late years, a very handsome pier has been built by the river
Dee
company in this township, jutting into the channel, for the protection of the ships bound to or from
Chester,
under which they may take shelter in bad weather or adverse winds.
FROM hence I ascended to
Hawarden,
HAWARDEN.
a small town, flourishing under the auspices of its lord, Sir
John Glynne
baronet. I shall speak first of the manor and castle. The last forms a most picturesque object, soaring above the woods. This place, like most others in our county, bears two names,
Pennard halawg,
perhaps corrupted from
Pen y Llŵch,
or
the head land above the lake; Saltney,
and the other subjacent marshes having once been covered by the sea. The other name is
Saxon,
as we find it written in Doomsday book,
Haordine;
at which time it was a lordship; had a church, two
Carucae
or ploughlands, half of one belonging to the latter; half an acre of meadow; a wood two leagues long and half a league broad. The whole was valued at forty shillings; yet on all this were but four villeyns, six boors, and four slaves: so low was the state of population.
IT is probable,
ROMAN
that this place had been a
British
post, opposed to the country of the
Cornavii,
and to the invading
Romans.
To the west of the church, in a field adjoining to the road, is a mount called
Truman
's hill, within a piece of ground which appears to have been squared, and nicely sloped. This evidently had been a small camp, whose figure has been much obliterated by the frequency of agriculture. It stood on the brow of the hill, and commanded a full view of the country. Another mount, called
Conna's. Hê,
is to be seen near Broadlane house. The Rost, an eminence (overlooking another flat) with fosses, and an exploratory mount, lying in the parish of
Gresford,
was another; and at
Caer-Estyn,
a fourth. We shall find occasion to speak more of these in the course of our journey.
THE
Saxons
possessed themselves of every strong hold which the
Britons
or the
Romans
had deserted.
SAXON.
Some they retained, others they neglected, as the policy of the new invaders, and the necessity of the situation, required. This, before the Conquest, was a chief manor, and the capital one of the hundred of
Atiscross.
On the invasion of
William,
it was found in the possession of the gallant
Edwin,
and probably was one of the places of his residence. It was a cover to his
Mercian
dominions against the
Britons,
the natural and inveterate enemies of the
Saxon
race.
ON the Conquest,
NORMAN.
it was comprehended in the vast grant made to
Hugh Lupus.
It afterwards devolved to the barons of
Mont-alto,
or
Mold,
which they held by stewartship to the earls of
Chester,
and made it their residence
Cambden, ii. 826.
.
GENEALOGISTS
Collin
's Peerage, i. 48.
tell us, that
Roger Fitz-valerine,
son of one of the noble adventurers who followed the fortunes of
William
the conqueror, possessed this castle; and having frequent contests with the
Welsh,
often saved himself by retreating to it; and from that circumstance it was called
Howard's Den.
But, with high respect to all the blood of all the
Howards,
it does not appear that their name was then known: with more probability does their historian say, that
William,
the son of
Fitz-vale-rine,
received the addition of
de Haward
or
Howard,
from the accident of being born in this place.
ON the extinction of the antient earls of
Chester,
to prevent that honor from being, according to the expression of the time,
parcelled out among distaffs,
this, as well as the other fortresses, were resumed by the crown.
CEDED TO LLEWELYN AP GRYFFYDD.
In 1264,
Llewelyn,
prince of
Wales,
had a conference at this place
Annales Cestrenses,
quoted by
Carte, ii. 151.
with
Simon de Montfort,
the potent earl of Leicester, where they established peace between
Cheshire
and
Wales,
in order to promote their respective designs; and in the year following, on
June
the 22d,
Montfort
obliged his captive monarch to make an absolute cession to the
Welsh
prince, not only of this fortress
Rymer, i. 814.
, but of the absolute sovereignty of
Wales,
and the homage of its barons, heretofore paid to
Henry.
After the suppression of
Leicester
's rebellion,
Hawardin
relapsed to the crown.
RELAPSES TO THE CROWN.
I must observe, that in 1267, in the pacification brought about by the Pope's legate
Ottoboni,
between
Henry
and
Llewelyn,
it seems as if the castle had been destroyed; for, among other articles,
Llewelyn
agrees to restore to
Robert de Montalto,
his lands in
Hawarden,
and restrains him from building a castle there for thirty years
Idem i. 845.
; probably it was destroyed by
Llewelyn
himself, who foresaw the impossibility of his keeping a fortress fo near the
English
borders. The castle must soon have been rebuilt; for I find in 1280 it was styled
Castrum Regis.
THAT year was distinguished by the general insurrection of the
Welsh,
under their prince
Llewelyn
and his brother
David;
the great effort of our gallant countrymen to preserve their liberties and antient mode of government. The attempt was begun by
David,
at that time newly reconciled to his brother, on
March
22d, on
Palm-Sunday,
in a stormy night, which favored his design.
S
E
IZED BY DAVID AP GRYFFYDD.
He surprized this castle; put the garrison to the sword, and wounded and took prisoner
Roger de Clifford,
justiciary of
Chester.
After the death of
Llewelyn,
and the subjection of
Wales, David
suffered for this in a most severe and distinguished manner; being the first in
England
who died as a traitor in the way in use at this time. He was a prince of a most unamiable character, equally perfidious to his brother, his country, and to
Edward,
his benefactor and protector. In the writ for his trial (which was before the whole baronage of
England) Edward
enumerates his kindnesses to him in this pathetic manner:
Quem susceperamus exulem, nutriveramus orphanum, ditaveramus de propriis terris nostris, et sub alarum nostrarum chlamide foveravimus, ipsum inter majores nostri palatii collocavimus
Rymer, ii. 248.
.
The last proved his greatest misfortune. He might have pleaded exemption from the
English
jurisdiction, and flung a strong odium on the tyranny of the conqueror, had he not accepted a barony, a seat among the
English
peers. He was in the same situation as the duke of
Hamilton
in later times; who denying the power of the court, was told that he was not tried as a
Scotch
peer, but as earl of
Cambridge,
a peerage bestowed on him by his unfortunate master.
DAVID was condemned to four species of punishment; to be drawn by a horse to the place of execution, as a traitor to the king who had made him a knight; to be hanged for murdering
Fulk Trigald,
and other knights, in this castle; for his sacrilege in committing those murders on
Palm Sunday,
his bowels were to be burnt; and finally, his body was to be quartered, and hung in different parts of the kingdom, because he had in different parts conspired the death of the king
Carte, ii. 195.
.
WE find nothing more of this place till the year 1327, the first of
Edward
III.
Dugdale, Baron. i. 527.
, when
Robert,
the last baron of
Montalt,
(for want of issue) passed this manor, and his other great possessions, to
Isabel
the queen-mother; but on her disgrace, it fell again to the crown.
IN 1337, the king granted the stewartship of
Chester,
GRANTED TO THE EARL OF SALISBURY.
with
Hawarden, &c.
to
William Montacute
earl of
Salisbury;
but as
Isabel
retained a life-interest in the grant, he procured her release of it, for the sum of six hundred marks. It continued in his family till the death of his great nephew,
John
earl of
Salisbury,
who was beheaded by the townsmen of
Cirencester,
after an unsuccessful insurrection, in 1400, in favor of
Richard
II. his deposed master.
Salisbury
had before granted his estates in fee to
Thomas Mountague
dean of
Sarum, Lodowick de Clifford, John Venour,
and
Richard Hertcombe,
and their heirs: but after his attainder, by act of parlement 7th
Henry
IV. they became forfeited to the king.
IN 1411 it was granted,
1411.
by patent from
Henry
IV. to his second son
Thomas
duke of
Clarence;
but in 1414, the 2d of
Henry
V.
Thomas
earl of
Salisbury,
son to
John,
petitioned for annulling the former sentence: his suit was referred to another parlement, and then dismissed.
Henry
then made to
Clarence
another grant, in which the former was declared to be invalid. In this the advowson of the living is also given.
CLARENCE was slain at the battle of
Baugy,
1420.
in 1420, and died without issue.
Hawarden
returned to
Henry
V. and from him to his son
Henry
VI. who, in 1443,
TO SIR THOMAS STANLEY.
granted it to Sir
Thomas Stanley,
comptroller of his houshold, and to the heirs male of his body: but in 1450, it was resumed; and in the next year granted, together with
Mold,
to
Edward
prince of
Wales.
On this occasion
John Hertcombe
clamed
Hawarden,
as heir to the last survivor of the four feoffees: he alledging that
John
earl of
Salisbury
was not possessed of
Hawarden
at the time of his forfeiture; and on this plea obtained a privy seal to enquire into it. An inquisition was taken; his plea was found to be good; and restitution was made. This
John Hertcombe
levied a fine to Sir
Richard Strangeways
knight, &c. and
John Needham,
to the use of
John Needham
and his heirs.
IN 1454, a fine was levied to
Richard Nevill
earl of
Salisbury,
and
Alice
his wife (daughter to
Thomas Montacute,
the great earl of
Salisbury
) and Sir
Thomas Stanley
knight, afterwards lord
Stanley
He had married
Elinor,
daughter of
Richard
earl of
Warwick.
, to the use of
Thomas Stanley,
and the heirs male of his body; on condition, that if
Thomas Stanley
do fell, or suffer discontinuance, or if he die without issue male, it is lawful for the said
Richard
earl of
Salisbury,
or the heirs of
Alice
his wife, to re-enter. On the death of Lord
Stanley,
the fee descended to his son and heir
Thomas,
afterwards earl of
Derby;
and after his decease, to his second wife,
Margaret
countess of
Richmond,
and mother to
Henry
VII. That monarch, in 1495, honored the place with a visit, and made some residence here for the amusement of stag hunting: but his primary motive was to soothe the earl her husband, after the ungrateful execution of his brother Sir
William Stanley.
ON the death of
Margaret, Hawarden
desended to
Thomas
earl of
Derby,
granson to the late earl; and continued in his family till the execution of the gallant
James
earl of
Derby,
in 1651: soon after his death, it was purchased from the agents of sequestration, by serjeant
Glynne.
On the restoration, the Lords made an order, on the 17th of
July
1660, that the earl of
Derby
's. and several other lords estates, which had been sold in the late usurpation, without their consents, should be re-possessed by them without molestation
Drake
's Parlem. Hist. xxii, 384.
. This induced
Glynne
to make an offer to the earl, of the surrender of
Hawarden,
for a lease of three lives
Account communicated to me by Sir
John Glynne.
. The proposal was either rejected, or not immediately accepted: the consequence of which was, the loss of the whole to the
Derby
family. The Lords, resentful of the indignities their order had experienced in the late troubles, began with an attempt to obtain reparation to one of the greatest sufferers. In the
December
of the same year, they sent down to the Commons a private bill, for the restoring to
Charles
earl of
Derby,
all the manors, lands,
&c.
which belonged to his late father. This was strongly opposed; and the bill was laid aside, without
Drake, xxiii. 50.
ever coming to a second reading
Drake, xxiii. 53.
. The earl was then glad to compound with the serjeant for the property of this place, and granted it to him and his heirs; in whom it still remains.
IT appears by these proceedings, as if the parlement was fearful of the consequences of even an act of justice; for, during the long troubles, there had been such vast change of property, effected by fuch variety of means, that it was apprehended, that the enquiry into the causes, and the dispossession of numbers who had quietly enjoyed such property from their fathers, might be attended with the most inflammatory consequences. It is likewise probable, that many of the members might be interested in the event; therefore, were determined to stop at once any proceeding that might tend to affect the fortunes of themselves or friends. Numbers of sales were made by the loyalists themselves, under the influence of fear. They were content to receive a trifle for the purchase, rather than lose the whole by violence; for there were very few who had not incurred a premunire under the ruling powers; which they were glad to get clear of by a seemingly voluntary sale. When they were thus disappointed in the hope of re-enjoyment of their fortunes, they laid the blame on the king, and invented the calumny of his rejecting this bill, after it had been passed unanimously by both houses.
DURING the civil wars, this cattle suffered the usual vicissitudes of fortune. It was firft possessed by the parlement, and kept for its use till the year 1643,
BESIEGED IN 1643.
at which time a cessation of arms being agreed to, on the part of the king, with the
Irish
rebels, a number of the forces were drawn from
Ireland,
and landed at Mostyn in this county, in the month of
November,
These were immediately employed to reduce the castle of
Hawarden.
The garrison received by a trumpet, a verbal summons; which gave occasion to the following letters between lieutenant-colonel
Marrow,
and
John Warren
and
Alexander Elliot,
the commanders on the part of the parlement. I omit the immediate answer to the summons, written in the religious strain affected by the party; which
Marrow
replies to like a true
Cavalier.
GENTLEMEN,
IT is not for to hear you preach that I am sent here; but in his majestie's name to demand the castle for his majestie's use: as your allegiance binds you to be true to him, and not to enveigle those innocent souls that are within with you; so I desire your resolution, whether you will deliver the castle or no?
The rejoinder from the castle was to this effect:
SIR,
WE have cause to suspect your disaffection to preaching, in regard we find you thus employed. If there be innocent souls here, God will require their blood of them that shed it. We can keep our allegiance and the castle too; and therefore you may take your answer, as it was in
English
plain enough before: we can say no more, but God'S will be done
Rustworth II. part iii. 300.
.
THESE letters had at the time but little weight. Captain
Thomas Sandford,
leader of the Firelocks, determined to fright them into submission by the terror of his name, or persuade them, to terms by the powers or his pen; and thus addresses the obstinate commandants:
GENTLEMEN,
I PRESUME you very well know, or have heard, of my condition and disposition; and that I neither give nor take quarter. I am now with my Firelocks (who never yet neglected opportunity to correct rebels) ready to use you as I have done the
Irish:
but loth I am to spill my countrymen's blood; wherefore, by these I advise you to your feilty and obedience towards his majesty; and shew yourselves faithfull subjects, by delivering the castle into my hands for his majesty's use; in so doing, you shall be received into mercy,
&c.
otherwise, if you put me to the least trouble or loss of blood to force you, expect no quarter for man, woman, or child. I hear you have some of our late
Irish
army in your company: they very well know me; and that my Firelocks use not to parley. Be not unadvised; but think of your liberty; for I vow all hopes of relief are taken from you; and our intents are not to starve you, but to batter and storm you, and then hang you all, and follow the rest of that rebellious crew. I am no bread-and-cheese rogue, but, as ever, a loyalist, and will ever be, while I can write or name
Nov. 28. 1643.
THOMAS SANDFORD, Captain of Firelocks.
I EXPECT your speedy answer this
Tuesday
night, at
Broad-Lane Hall,
where I am now, your near neighbour.
To the officer commanding in chief at
Hawarden
castle, and his concerts there.
ALL this eloquence would have been flung away, had not more forces on the side of the king, and want of provisions on that of the garrison, co-operated with this valiant epistle. So, as
Rushworth
says,
after a fortnight's siege, and much ink and little blood spilt, the castle being in want of provisions, was surrendered to Sir
Michael Earnley,
on condition to march out with half arms and two pair of colors, one flying, and the other furled; and to have a convoy to
Wem
or
Nantwyche.
THE royalists Kept possesson or it till after the surrender of
Chester
to Sir
William Brereton
in 1645;
AGAIN IN 1645.
when, on
March
17th, O. S. it was taken by major-general
Mytton,
after a month's siege. At that time Sir
William Neal
was governor, who declined to give it up till he had obtained his majesty's permission
MS. at
Mostyn
. On the 22d of
December
it was by vote of parlement ordered to be dismantled,
DISMANTLED.
with four other castles in this part of
North Wales.
Whitelock, 231.
These orders extended only to the rendering it untenable; but the farther destruction was effected by the owner, Sir
William Glynne,
the first baronet of the name, between the years 1665 and 1678.
THE remains are a fine circular tower or keep,
DESCRIBED.
on the summit of a mount. This alone is pretty entire. Nothing except this, and a few walls, and the foundations of some rooms, exist at present; which Sir
John Glynne
has, with great pains, laid open by the removal of the rubbish. In one place was discovered a long flight of steps, at the bottom of which was a door, and formerly a draw-bridge, which crossed a deep long chasm (nicely faced with freestone) to another door leading to two or three small rooms. Probably they were places of confinement, where prisoners might be lodged with the utmost security, after pulling up the bridge over the deep chasm that intervened between them and open day.
THE several parts of this fortress seem to have been built at different times. It is surrounded with deep fosses, now filled with trees. In 1665, the timber of the park and demesne was valued at five thousand pounds, and was sold in that century; but the present owner will have the merit of restoring it manyfold to the next, by the vast plantations he has made.
THE living is in the gift of the lord; who presents;
RECTORY.
and the bishop of
Chester
inducts. The rector does all episcopal acts, except those of ordination and confirmation; and has a peculiar exempt jurisdiction: grants licences, registers and proves wills; and has his court and his proctors.
THE living is at present eleven hundred pounds a year; and, in proportion as the subjacent lands are cultivated, will experience a far greater improvement.
THE church is a plain but handsome building, kept in neat and decent repair. The parsonage-house is new, and suitable to the revenue. The garden is very prettily layed out, upon a high and commanding ground.
HAW
RDEN CASTLE
THE parish receives two hundred a year from the river
Dee
company.
PAROCHIAL REVENUE.
This was granted by act of parlement, in consideration or eight hundred acres of land, belonging to
Hawarden,
inclosed on the north side of the river, for the use of the adventurers in the navigation. This sum is to be payed to the lord of the manor and other trustees; and is applicable to any uses which any five (with the consent of the lord) shall agree on.
IN
Broadlane,
PICTURES.
the mansion-house, built by the present baronet in 1752, are four portraits of great merit, part of the collection of Sir
Konelm Digby.
They represent the evangelists with their respective attributes; seemingly the production of
Valentine,
a
Ir
hman
He died 1632. A gentleman well skilled in prints tells me, that these four pictures were engraven by
Rousselet.
, who studied the style of
Carravaggio.
These are in his best manner. The attitudes are fine; and the lights and shadows most admirably disposed. They are half lengths; a size that his great model excelled in.
AMONG the family portraits, are two of the chief justice
Glyme,
the able, political lawyer of the reign of
Charles
I. and the succeeding usurpation. He was of the house of
Glynllivon
in
Caernarvonshire;
which derives itself from
Cilmin-Troed-ddu,
or
Cilmin
with the black foot, one of the fifteen tribes, and cotemporary with, and nephew to,
Merfyn Frych,
prince of
Wales
in the year 818.
SIR JOHN GLYNNE was born at
Glyn-llivon
in the year 1602;
CHIEF JUSTICE GLYNNE.
his father was Sir
William Glynne
knight; his mother a
Griffith
of
Caernarvon.
His education was after the best mode. His school was that of the college at
Westminster;
his academic learning was instilled into him at
Hart-ball, Oxford;
and his knowlege of the law at
Lincoln's-Inn,
where he became a bencher. His abilities were immediately discovered by the popular party, by whose influence he was made steward of
Westminster,
recorder of
London,
and twice elected member for the former, in the two parlements of 1640. He was, next to
Pym,
the most active manager against the earl of
Strafford.
The unfortunate peer remarked, that
Glynne
and
Maynard
treated him like advocates;
Palmer
and
Whitelock
like gentlemen; and yet omitted nothing material that could be urged against him
Whitelock, 49
. The author of
Hudibras
seems to catch at this part of the character of these two great lawyers:
Did not the learned
Glynne
and
Maynard,
To make good subjects traitors, strain hard?
IN the case of
Strafford,
and in that of the impeachment of the twelve bishops, they acted on principle. This appears evident from the prosecution they afterwards underwent, for the noble stand they made against the ruin of the constitution, planned, and afterwards effected by the army. On
September
the 8th 1647, they were expelled the house, committed to the Tower, and had a charge of high-treason brought against them
Parliament. Hist. xvi. 294.512.
.
Glynne
soon determined to submit to the rising powers. In the next year, he was restored to his place in the house; appointed one of the ten
THE JUSTICE GLYNNE
commissioners for carrying on the treaty with the king in the isle of
Wight;
and voted by the house to be a serjeant at law in the new call it thought fit to make. He, as well as the artful
Whitelock,
evaded all concern in trial of the king: but afterwards temporized fully with the powers in being.
Cromwel
soon made him one of his council. In 1654, he was constituted chamberlain of
Chester:
in the following year, was (on the refusal of the chief justice
Rolles
) sent into the west with a commission to try colonel
Penruddock,
and the other insurgents
Athenae Oxon. ii. 386.
.
Rolles
lost his place for his scruples; and in his room the serjeant was rewarded with the office of lord chief justice of the upper bench. He was grateful to his patron; for, being appointed of the committee to receive the protector's scruples about being made king, he urged the acceptance with the utmost zeal. It is amusing to compare the change of sentiment, from the year 1648, when the kingly office was voted to be unnecessary, burthensome, and dangerous, with the opinion of 1657, when the learned serjeant tells
Cromwel,
that it is essential to the settlement of the nation
Parliament Hist. xxi. 90.
. Notwithstanding the usurper did not dare to assume the name, he mimicked the powers; and honored his advocate with calling him up by writ into his house of peers; that motley assembly of the year 1657. The prudent lawyer maintained his ground till the year of the restoration, when, by a master-piece of cunning, he published in octavo, the arguments he had used to prevale with his former master to mount the throne, under the title of MONARCHY
asserted to be the best, the most antient, and
legal form of government. How flattering must this have been to the rightful prince, to find the antient mode acknowleged as most eligible (even after the long abuse of it in his family) by one of the ablest supporters of the protectorate?
WHETHER this recommended him to the new government, or whether he had made his peace before, is not certain. He was received by
Charles
with distinguished marks of favor, who not only knighted him, but bestowed on him the honor of prime serjeant, and even created his eldest son a baronet. In the convention parlement, he was elected for the county of
Caernarvon;
and was appointed one of the committee for examining the acts passed during the late usurpation, which were inconsistent with the present government; and how the many fines, recoveries,
&c.
made in the late courts of law, might be confirmed and rendered good. He had likewise a concern in the act of general pardon, and in all others in which the assistance of an able lawyer was requisite
Drake's
Parlem. Hist. xxii. 416.
.
He retired from the house in the following parlement; and lived till the year 1666, when he died in
London,
and was interred in his own vault, beneath the altar of St.
Margaret
's church,
Westminster
FROM
Breadlane
the land begins to slope towards the
Dee.
At the bottom, between the fifth and sixth stone from
Chester,
lies
Breughten,
formerly the property of the
Ravenscrofts,
and afterwards that of the
Hopes.
At the Conquest it was called
Brochetune;
and was held of
Hugh L
pus,
by
Robert de Roelent,
or
Rudland. Levenot,
a freeman, possessed it before.
Robert
also had a manor here, once held by a
Saxon
of the name of
Ulmer.
CLOSE to the village of
Breton,
lies the large marsh of
Saltney,
which reaches within about a mile of
Chester.
It is at present divided by a most excellent road, by whose side runs a small canal, cut by Sir
John Glynne,
for the conveyance of his coal into the
Dee
near the city. This tract was formerly granted, by
Robert
lord of
Mold,
to the monks of
Basingwerk,
for pasturage; he also gave them the same privilege in
Hawarden,
and the liberty of cutting rushes for thatching their buildings
Harleian
MS. No 2099.9.
.
THE principal part of this common lies in
Flintshire.
The boundary is marked by a stone near the east end. It extends considerably on both sides. From the right flows the
Leeches,
a small brook, rising a little beyond
Doddleston.
That place lies out of my rout; yet I mention it, as the place of interment of that honest chancellor
Egerton
lord
Ellesmere,
who preferred it out of affection to his mother, a native of this village.
ANOTHER, circumstance leads me to name this parish, humiliating as it is to a
Welshman;
for at
Balderton
bridge our countrymen met with a cruel defeat from
Hugh Cyvelioc
earl of
Chester;
who, by way of trophy, made a rampart of their heads.
AT the extremity of
Saltney,
within a mile of
Chester,
the land rises suddenly. On the left-hand of the ascent are considerable hollows, with correspondent elevations: one has the appearance of a round bastion; which makes me conjecture, that they might have been works designed to command this pass into the country of the
Ordovices;
for it points towards
Varis, Conovium,
and
Segontium.
CHESHIRE,
A part of the country of the
Cornavii,
CHESTER.
commences on the flat beneath this bank. The road is continued along the small common of
Over-leigh,
and ends at
Han-bridge,
the suburbs of
Chester,
on this side of the river, belonging to the parish of St.
Mary.
THE access to the city is over a very narrow and dangerous bridge, of seven irregular arches, rendered more inconvenient by the antient gateways at each end, formerly necessary enough, to prevent the inroads of my countrymen, who often carried fire and sword to these suburbs; which were so frequently burnt, as to be called by the
Britons Tre-boeth,
or the burnt town.
I SHALL begin my account of this respectable city, by declining the honor of asserting it to have been of
British
foundation, notwithstanding I have the authority of
Ranulph
the
Monk,
and of
Henry Bradshaw,
another religious of this city.
The founder of this city, as faith
Polychronicon,
Was
Leon Gaure,
a mighty strong gyant;
Who builded caves and dungeons many a one,
No goodly building, ne proper, ne pleasant.
But king
Leir,
a
Britain
fine and valiant,
Was founder of
Chester
by pleasant building,
And was named
Guer-leir
by the king
Brodshaw's
Life of St.
Werburg.
.
YET this legend does not err greatly from the right name,
Caer Lleon,
CAER LLEON.
the camp of the legion.
Caer Lleon, vawr ar ddyfr Dwy,
the camp of the great legion on the
Dee,
being the head quarters of the twentieth legion, styled also
Valeria
and
Victrix.
This legion came into
Britain
before the year 61; for it had share in the defeat of
Boadicea
by
Suetonius.
After this victory, the
Roman
forces were led towards the borders of
North Wales,
probably into this county. Afterwards, by reason of the relaxed state of discipline, a wing had been cut off by the
Ordovices,
just before the arrival of
Agricola;
but the quarters of these troops at this period are not exactly known. It is probable that part at lest were on the
Deva;
that he collected a few of his forces, and began his march against the enemy from this place; and that, after his successful expedition into
Mona,
MONA, &c.
he determined to six here a garrison, as the fittest place to bridle the warlike people he was about to leave behind him. In consequence, he fixed part of the legion here, and detachments in the neighboring posts, before he ventured on the distant expedition to
Scotland,
into which he led part, as appears from the inscriptions; which prove that a
vexillatio
of this legion was concerned in building a portion of the
Roman
wall, In order to encourage the troops he left behind, he formed here a colony; and the place was styled from them, and from its situation,
DIVANAS
Colonia Devana,
as is proved by the coin of
Septimus Geta,
son of
Severus,
which was thus inscribed:
COL. DEVANA
leg.
xx. VICTRIX.
IT was also called simply
Deva,
AND DEVA.
from the river which washe
one side;
The antient hallowed DEE.
THE form of the city evinces the origin to have been
Roman,
FOURS CHIEF STREETS.
being in the figure of their camps; with four gates; four principal streets; and variety of lesser, crossing the others at right angles, dividing the whole into lesser squares. The walls, the precincts of the present city, mark the limits of the antient. No part of the old walls exist; but they stood, like the modern, on the soft freestone rock, high above the circumjacent country, and
escarpe
on every front.
THE structure of the four principal streets is without parallel. They run direct from east to west, and north to south; and were excavated out of the earth, and sunk many feet beneath the surface.
EXCAVATED
The carriages are driven far below the level of the kitchens, on a line with ranges or shops; over which, on each side of the streets, passengers walk from end to end, secure from wet or heat, in galleries (or
rowe,
as they are called) purloined from the first floor of each house, open in front and balustraded. The back-courts of all these houses are level with the rows; but to go into any of these four streets, it is necessary to descend a flight of several steps.
THESE rows appear to me to have been the same with the antient
vestibules;
and to have been a form of building preserved from the time that the city was possessed by the
Romans.
They were built before the doors, midway between the streets and the houses; and were the places where dependents waited for the coming out of their patrons
De signif. vocab.
.
, and under which they might walk away the tedious minutes of expectation.
Plautus,
in the third act of his
Mostella,
describes both their situation and use:
Viden' vestibulum ante aedes, et ambulacrum ejusmodi?
The shops beneath the rows were the
cryptae
and
apothecae,
magazines for the various necessaries of the owners of the Houses.
The streets were once considerably deeper, as is apparent from the shops, whose floors lie far below the present pavement. In digging foundations for houses, the
Roman
pavement is often discovered at the depth of four feet beneath the modern. The lesser streets and allies, which run into the principal streets, sloped to the bottoms of the latter, as is particularly visible in were
Bridge Street;
but these are destiture of the galleries or rows.
IT is difficult to assign a reason for these hollowed ways.
GREAT VAULTS,
An antient historian mentions the existence, in his days, of certain vaults and passages, of which not a trace, nor even the lest memory is left, notwithstanding the most diligent search and enquiries have been made.
In this cyte,
says the author of the
Polychronicen, ben ways under erthe, with vowtes and stone werke wonderly wrought; thre chambred werkes. Grete stones I grave with olde
mennes names therin. There is also
JULIUS CEZAR'S
name wonderly in stones grave, and other noble mennes names also, with the wrytynge about;
meaning the altars and monumental inscriptions: but he probably mistakes the name of
Julius Caesar
for that of
Julius Agricola;
to whom, it is reasonable to suppose, some grateful memorial was erected. Unless these hollowed streets were formed by the void left after the destruction of these great vaults, I can no more account for their formation, than for the place which those antient
Souterrains
occupied.
NEW LO
T.
None have ever been discovered, by the frequent sinking of cellars for new buildings on the site of the old; tradition has delivered no such accounts to us; nor is their exit to be traced beneath the walls in any part of their circumference. The only vaults now known, are of a middle age, and which belonged either to the
hotels
of the great men, or to the religious houses dispersed through the city.
OF the four gates of the city,
EAST GATE, ROMAN.
one of them, the
East gate,
continued till of late years; of
Roman
architecture, and consisted of two arches, much hid by a tower, erected over it in the later days. A few years ago it was pulled down, on account of its straitness and inconveniency, to give way to a magnificent gate, which rose in its place by the munificence of lord
Grosvenor.
I remember the demolition of the antient structure; and on the taking down the more modern case of
Norman
masonry, the
Roman
appeared full in view.
IT consisted of two arches, formed of vast stones, fronting the
East-gate
street and the
Forest
street: the pillar between them dividing the street exactly in two. The accurate representation
of them by Mr.
Wilkinson,
of this city, will give a stronger idea of them than words can convey; as also of the figure of the
Roman
soldier, placed between the tops of the arches facing the
Forest
street.
THIS species of double gate was not unfrequent. The
Porta esquilina
Montfaucon,
III. part ii. p. 177.
, and the
Porte portese
Nardini, Roma Anticha, p. 37.
at
Rome,
were of this kind.
Flores,
in his medals of the
Roman
colonies in
Spain
P. 384. tab. xxi.xxii.xxiii.
, exhibits one on the coins of
Merida,
the antient
Emerita,
particularly on those of
Augustus;
which shews, that the colonists were proud of their gate; and perhaps not without reason, as it appears to have been the work of the best age. I must conclude, that the mode seems to have been derived from the
Grecian
architecture; for at
Athens
stood a
Dipylon,
or double gate, now demolished
As I have been informed by my friend Mr.
Stuart.
.
THE gate in question faced the great
Watling street road,
and near the place where other military ways united. Through this was the greatest conflux of people; which rendered the use of the double portal more requisite.
THE
Roman
bath beneath the
Feathers Inn,
HYPOCY
in
Bridge street,
is probably still entire; but the only part which can be seen, by reason of the more modern superstructures, is the
Hypocaust.
This is of a rectangular figure, supported by thirty-two pillars, two feet ten inches and a half high, and about eighteen inches distant from each other. Upon each is a tile eighteen inches square, as if designed for a capital; and over them a perforated tile two feet square. Such are continued over all the pillars. Above these are two layers; one of coarse mortar, mixed with small red gravel, about three inches thick; and the other of finer materials, between four and five inches thick: these seem to have been the floor of the room above. The pillars stand on a mortar-floor, spread over the rock. On the south side, between the middle pillars, is the vent for the smoke, about six inches square, which is at present open to the height of sixteen inches. Here is also an anti-chamber, exactly of the same extent with the
Hypocaust,
with an opening in the middle into it. This is sunk near two feet below the level of the former, and is of the same rectangular figure; so that both together are an exact square. This was the room allotted for the slaves who attended to heat the place; the other was the receptacle of the fuel designed to heat the room above, the
concamerata sudatio
Vitruvius,
lib. v. c. II.
, or sweating-chamber; where people were seated, either in niches, or on benches placed one above the other, during the time of the operation. Such was the object of this Hypocaust; for there were others of different forms, for the purposes of heating the waters destined for the use of the bathers.
I MUST now descend towards the bridge, in search of the few further reliques of the antient colonists. After passing through the gate, on the right, near some skinners houses, is a small flight of steps, which lead to a large round arch, seemingly of
Roman
workmanship. It is now filled with more modern masonry, and a passage left through a small arch of a very eccentric form.
ANTIENT POSTERN.
On the left, within the very passage, is the appearance of another round arch, now filled up. This postern is called the
Ship-gate,
or
Hole in the Wall.
THIS seems originally designed for the common passage over the
Dee,
into the country of the
Ordovices,
either by means of a boat at high-water, or by fording at low, the river here being remarkably shallow. What reduces this to a certainty is, that the rock on the
Hanbridge
side is cut down, as if for the conveniency of travellers. And immediately beyond, in the field called
Edgar
's, are the vestiges of a road pointing up the hill;
ROMAN ROAD.
and which we shall have hereafter occasion to say, was continued toward
bonium,
the present
Bangor.
IN a front of a rock in the same field, and facing this relique of the
Roman
road, is cut a rude figure of the
Dea armigera,
MINERVA with her bird and altar.
SCULPTURE OR MINERVA.
This probably was a sepulchral monument; for such were very usual on the sides of highways; but time or wantonness has erased all inscription.
BEYOND this stood, past all memory, some antient buildings, whose site is marked by certain hollows; for the ground (probably over the vaults) gave way and fell in within the remembrance of persons now alive. Tradition calls the spot the site of the palace of
Edgar.
Nothing is now left, from which any judgment can be formed, whether it had been a
Roman
building, as Doctor
Stukeley
surmises; or
Saxon,
according to the present notion; or
Norman,
according to
Braun
Civitates Ortis,
iii. pl. 3. This work was published in 1576.
, who, in his antient plan of this city, styles the ruins, then actually existing,
Ruinosa domus Comitis Cestriensis.
Perhaps it might have been used successively by every one; who added or improved according to their respective national modes.
HAVING had occasion to mention the name of a departed antiquary, I think fit to acknowlege my obligations for the many hints I have benefitted by, from the travels of that great and lively genius; but at the same time lament, that I must say, I often find him
Plus beau que la
VERITE. His rapid fancy led him too frequently to paint things as he thought they ought to be, not what they really were. In the subject before us, this assertion may be supported, by his giving three arches to the antient
East gate,
and hollow ways to every part of the city; where search, has been made.
THE beautiful altar,
ALTAR.
in possession of Mr.
Dyson,
and the soldier in the garden or Mr.
Lawton,
are the only pieces of detached antiquities now ramaining in this city. The first is of great elegance, and was erected by
Flavius Longus,
tribune of the twentieth victorious legion, and his son
Longinus,
in honor of the emperors
and
Maximian.
The father and son, who thus expressed their gratitude, were of
Samosata,
a city of
Syria
On one side is the inscription, on the opposite is a curtain with a festoon above. On one of the narrower sides is a genius with a
cornucopia;
and on the other is a pot with a plant of the supposed
acanthus,
elegantly leaved. On the summit is a head included in a circular garland. I fogot to remark, that immediately over the inscription is a globe overtopped with palm-leaves. If this is not a general compliment to their victories, I should imagine it designed to express their particular successes in
Africa,
of which the palm-tree was a known emblem.
THIS was found in digging for a cellar near the
East-gate,
on the antient pavement, which consisted of great stones. Around it were found the marks of sacrifice; heads, horns, and bones of the ox, roe-buck,
&c.
and with them two coins; one of
Vespasian
in brass, with his head, inscribed IMP. CAES. VESP. AUG. COSS. III. and on the reverse, VICTORIA AUGUSTI S. C. and a winged Victory standing. The other was of copper, inscribed round the head, of
Constantius,
FL. VAL. CONSTANTIUS NOB. C. and on the other side, GENIO POPULI ROMANI; alluding to a genius holding in one hand a sacrificing bowl, in the other a
cornucopia.
THE other antiquities discovered here are now dispersed; which obliges me to have recourse to books, in order to place them in one point of view.
THE first is the noted altar discovered in 1653,
ANOTHER.
at present preserved at
Oxford.
It is inscribed to
Jupiter,
with the
British
epithet
Tanarus,
or the Thunderer, by the transposal of the letters
r
and
n
in the word
Taran.
This appears to have been complimentary to the
Britons,
by adopting the epithet in their language, instead of that of
Tonans.
The inscription (approved most by Mr.
Horsely
Tab, 67. No iii.
) runs thus:
Jovi
optimo maximo Tanaro
Titus Elupius Galeria
Praesens
Guntia,
Primipilus
Legionis vicessimae Valentis.
Victricis
Commodo
et
Laterano
Consalibus votum solvit
Lubens merito.
THE word
Guntic,
in the learned
Prideaux
and
Gale
Gale's Comm. 53.
, is read
Gunethae,
as if derived from
Gwinedd,
one of the
British
names of
North Wales;
over which they suppose
Elupius
had presided. This might account for his preference of the word
Tanaro,
as highly flattering to the vanity of those he governed.
THE next is a statue in possession of the late Reverend Mr.
Prescot,
STATUE or MITHRAS.
with a
Phrygian
bonnet on his head, a little mantle cross his shoulders, and a short jacket on his body. He is placed standing with a torch in his hands declining. This is supposed to have been
Mithras,
or the sun; a deity borrowed from the
Persians,
and much in vogue among the
Romans
in the second and third century
Horsely, Cumberland, 259.
. An inscription, DEO SOLI MITRAE, has been discovered in
Cumberland.
The
Phrygian
bonnet marks him for a foreign deity. The declining torch shews the funebrious occasion of this stone.
MR. HORSELY mentions another stone, discovered in digging a cellar in
Water-gate street,
in 1729. The inscription is so imperfect, that he ingenuously confesses, that without the aid of fancy, it cannot be made out.
A FEW bricks, with the number of the legion stationed here, fill the list of the
Roman
antiquities of the place. I say nothing of the inscription DEAE NYMPHAE BRIGANTES, preserved by Mr.
Gale,
it being justly disputed whether it belonged to this place.
I MUST not omit the most valuable memorial which the
Romans
left,
CHEESE-MAKING.
in a particular manner, to this county; the art of cheese-making: for we are expressly told, that the
Britons
were ignorant of it till the arrival of the
Romans.
The
Cestrians
have improved so highly in this article, as to excel all countries, not excepting that of
Italy,
the land of their antient masters.
THE twentieth legion was recalled from
Britain
before the writing of the
Notitia,
THE LEGION QUITS THIS STATION
it not being mentioned in that work, which was composed
Horsely, 473.
about the year 445. It is supposed also to have been drawn from
Chester
before the retreat of the
Romans
from this island, its name being found at
Bath
among some of the latest inscriptions we have
Idem, 85.
. The city must not at that period be supposed to be totally deserted; it remained occupied by the descendants of the legionaries, who partook of the same privileges, and were probably a numerous body. Numbers likewise, who had married with the native islanders, and embraced civil employs, in all likelihood stayed behind after the final abdication of
Britain
by the legions in 448. After this, the city fell under the government of the
Britons,
till their conquest was entirely effected by the new invaders the
Saxons.
BRITAIN,
SAXON PERIOD.
now left defenceless, quickly experienced all the calamities that could be inflicted on it from a oreign and barbarous people. While
Hengist
and
Horsa
poured in their troop
upon the south, another set of
Banaitli
landed in
Wales,
from their settlements in the
Orcades
and the north of
tland.
These with their allies the
Picts,
were defeated near
Mold,
by the Christian
Britons.
headed by St.
Germanus.
I mention this out of course, merely to shew, that the probable rest that
Deva
enjoyed for another century, was owing to this victory, which, obtained seemingly in a miraculous manner, discouraged for a long space any new attempts.
THE fate of this city was at length decided in 607
Sax. Chren. 25.
,
ETHELFRID, 607.
when
Ethelfrid
king of
Northumbria
resolved to add this rich tract to his dominions. He was opposed by
Brochmail Yscithroc
king of
Pa
is;
who collected hastily a body of men, probably depending on the intervention of Heaven, as in the case of the
victoria allelutanca;
BATTLE OF CHESTER.
for that end, he called to his aid one thousand two hundred religious from the great convent of
Banger.
and posted them on a hill in order that he might benefit by the
prayers.
Ethelfrid
fell in with this pious corps, and, finding what their business was
Bede, Hist. ii. c a.
, put them to the sword without mercy. He made an easy conquest of
Brochmail,
who, as the
Saxon
chronicle
P.
informs us, escaped with about fifty men. It appears that
Eth
d,
after pillaging the city, left it to the former owners, and contented himself with the territory, till it was wrest
l
his kingdom by that of Merita.
WE are left unacquainted with the history of this city for a long period. The
Britons
seem to have continued in possession of it, and it was considered to be the capital city of
Venedotia,
or
North Wales,
till it was finally wrested out of their hands by
Egbert,
EGBERT, 828.
about the year 828, during the reign of the
British
prince
Mervyn
and his wife
Esylht
Powel, 27.
; which contracted the limits of
Wales,
during the remainder of its independent existence.
IN a few years after it underwent a heavy calamity from the
Danes.
THE DANES WINTER HERE, 895.
These pirates, the scourge of the kingdom, meeting with a severe defeat by
Alfred the Great,
retreated before him; and in their slight collecting vast numbers of their countrymen, committed the care of their wives, their ships, and their booty, to the
East Angles,
marched night and day to secure quarters in the west. They seized on
Legaceaster
before the king could overtake them. He besieged them about two days, destroyed all the cattle he could find about the town, partly burnt, and partly caused the standing corn to be destroyed by his cavalry, and slew all the
Danes
whom he found without the walls
Sax. Chr. 102. Flores Hist. anno 908. p. 269.
. These invaders kept possession of the town part of the winter; but, compelled by famine, evacuated it the beginning of 895,
EVACUATE THE PLACE
and took their course through
North Wales;
which the same cause obliged them suddenly to quit.
AFTER the evacuation of the city by the
Danes,
it continued in ruins till the year 907 or 908; when the
Saxon Chronicle,
and all our antient historians, agree, that it was restored by the celebrated
Ethelfleda
Ranulf. Higden
in
Gale, iii. 260.
.
THIS lady is so frequently mentioned in the
Mercian
history,
HER HISTORY.
that it will not be impertinent to give a brief account of her. She was the undegenerate daughter of the great
Alfred,
and the wife of
Ethelred
earl of
Mercia,
under his brother-in-law
Edward
king of
England.
On the birth of her first child
P
s
lam primam difficultatem porpessa tanta indignatione carnalem cencut
, at run
am d
p
ad viri
rum rediens, se caelebita Cississimo conti
. I
, she separated herself from her husband, and for the rest of her days, like an
Imazen
of old, determined on a life of chastity, and devoted herself to deeds of arms. She kept on the best terms with her husband: they united in all acts of munificence and piety; restored cities founded abbies, and removed to more suitable places the bones of long-departed saints.
AFTER the death of her husband, in 912, she assumed the government of the
Mervan
earldom, and the command of the army. She became so celebrated for her valour, that the effe
inate titles of Lady or Queen were thought unworthy of her. she received in addition those of LORD and KING.
O ELFLEDA potens, O terror virgo virorum
Victrix naturae, nomine digna viri
Tu quo splendidior fieres, natura puellam,
Te probitas fecit nomen habere viri.
Te mutare decet, sed selum nomine sexus,
Tu
Regina
potens,
Rexque
trophaea parans,
Nec jam
Caesarei
tantum meruere triumphi,
Caesare
splendidior virgo virago vale
H
,
, lib. v. p. 354.
ELFLEDA, terror of mankind!
Nature, for ever unconfin'd,
Stampt thee in woman's tender frame,
Tho' worthy of a hero's name.
Thee, thee alone, the Muse shall sing,
Dread EMPRESS and victorious KING!
E'en
Caesar
's conquests were out-done
By thee, illustrious
Amazon!
R. W.
THE heroine appears well to have merited this eulogium. Her abilities and activity were perpetually exerted in the service of her country. She erected a castle at
Sceargate;
another at
Briege,
the modern
Bridgenorth;
a third at
Tamweorthige,
or
Tamworth;
a fourth at
Staefford;
a fifth at
Eadesbyrig,
now the chamber in the forest in
Cheshire;
a fifth at
Waeringwic,
or
Warwick;
a sixth at
Cyricbyrig,
or
Chirbury;
a seventh at
Weardbyrig,
or
Wedsburrow,
in
Staffordshire;
and an eighth at
Rumcof,
or
Runcorn,
in
Cheshire.
She took
Brecenanmere,
or
Brecknock,
and made its queen prisoner: she stormed
Deoraby,
or
Derby;
but lost sour
Thanes
within the place: and finally, she restored the city of
Legerceaster,
after its desolation by the barbarians; rebuilt the walls; and, as some pretend, enlarged the city so greatly as to include the castle, which before stood without the antient precincts. Death put an end to her glorious course,
DEATH.
at
Tamworth
Sax. Chr. 109.
, in the summer of 922, from whence her body was translated to
Gloucester.
Her loss was regretted by the whole kingdom, and by none so sensibly felt as by her brother
Edward;
for she was as useful to that wise prince in the cabinet as in the field.
EDGAR made this port one of the stations in his annual circumnavigation of his dominions.
EDGAR, 973.
The year 973 is noted for the league he made here with six petty kings; who engaged to assist him by sea and by land in all his undertakings. This is the fact, as related by the
Saxon Chronicle
P. 122. Henry Huntindon, 356.
. The same is mentioned, perhaps copied from the former, by
Henry of Huntingdon;
but
Higden,
the monk of
St. Werburg,
to do greater honor to his native city, makes the number of
Reguli
eight; and adds, that, in token of superiority,
Edgar,
one day entering his barge, assumed the helm, and made his eight tributaries row him from the palace, which stood in the field which still bears his name, up the
Dee,
to the church of St.
John,
and from thence back to his palace
Polychron. in Gale, iii. 267.
.
IN the following century, the invasions of the
Danes
were conducted with so much policy as to induce the factious and traiterous nobility of
England
to rise and favor their designs.
Edmund,
EDMUND IRONSIDES.
surnamed
Ironside,
took arms to relieve his distressed country, and carried the war into the northern counties, among which lay the principal partizans of the invaders: whose country he ravaged, in resentment of their treason. This city is mentioned among those which suffered.
Edmund,
by the perfidiousness of his own people, was constrained to leave both the
Mercian
and
Northumbrian
kingdoms in possession of
Canute;
CANUTE, 1016.
who, in the famous partition of
England
between these rival princes, in 1016, retained those parts for his own share.
ON the restoring of the
Saxon
line, it reverted, with the rest of the
Mercian
province, to its old masters.
Leofric,
a munificent nobleman, was at that time governor of
Mercia,
and earl of
Chester.
These earls were not created, but merely official. He died 1057,
1057.
and was succeeded by his son
Alfgar
or
Algar,
a turbulent nobleman; who engaging in rebellion, aided by the
Welsh
prince
Gryffydd ap Llewelŷn,
was twice deprived of his earldom, and was once pardoned. After his second deprivation, he obtained again the province by dint of arms, assisted by
Gryffyd
and a
Norwegian
fleet. He died soon after, and was interred in
Coventry,
where the earls of
Mercia
had their principal seat.
HIS eldest son
Edwin
succeeded;
NORMAN CONQUEST, 1066
in whom ended the race of earls of
Chester
of
Saxon
blood. After the battle of
Hastings,
he sled, with his brother
Morkar
earl of
Northumberland,
to
London,
with a view of the crown, vacant by the death of
Harold.
Being disappointed in his hopes, he took his sister
Algytha,
widow to the slain monarch, and sent her to
Chester;
and endeavored to escape to
Malcolm
king of
Scotland,
but was intercepted by the way and slain.
ENGLAND now experienced a total change of masters. The conqueror, in order at once to secure his new dominions, and to reward his followers, bestowed on them the lands of the noble
Saxons.
He wisely divided the provinces, which had hitherto been ruled by a few great men, into lesser portions; and by this means broke the power which before often braved the throne.
Mercia,
heretofore under the government of a duke or earl,
POST-CONQUEST EARLS OF CHESTER
and ruled by what was called, in the
Saxon
phrase, the
Merchenlege,
received in many cases a distinct master.
Cheshire
fell to the share of
Gherbod,
a valiant
Fleming.
By misfortune he fell into the hands of his enemies (being called into
Flanders
) soon after he had taken possession of his new territories, and by reason of a long captivity was obliged to resign them to another. The Conqueror, in his place, appointed
Hugh de Aurange,
better known by the name of
Hugh Lupus;
the first
Norman
earl of
Chester
who ever possessed the county. To him he delegated a fulness of power; made his a
county palatine,
and gave it such a sovereign jurisdiction, that the antient earls kept their own parlements; and had their own courts of law, in which any offence against the dignity of the sword of
Chester
was as cognizable here, as the like offence would have been at
Westminster
against the dignity of the royal crown; for
William
allowed
Lupus
to hold this county
tam liberè ad gladium, sicut ipse
REX
tenebat
Angliam
d coronam.
The sword by which he was invested with this dignity is still to be seen in the
Museum,
inscribed
Hugo comes Cestriae.
Another inferior office was also held by the earls, by virtue of this sword; that of sword-bearer of
England
at the times of coronation
Leicester, 105.
.
LUP
S instantly took possession of his dominions. It is probable that he was invested in them by
William
himself; for we find the Conqueror at
Chester
in person in 1069, where he repelled the
Welsh,
and finally reduced the
Mercian
province, which appears to have been in arms to this period
Ordericus vitalis, lib. iv. p. 516.
. At the same time restored the walls and built the castle; the former having either fallen into decay since the days of
Ethelfreda,
or were not thought sufficiently strong for the exigencies of the times.
As soon as
Lupus
was firmly established, he began to exert his regal prerogatives. He formed his parlement by the creation of eight barons,
viz. Nigel
baron of
Halton; Robert,
of
Montalt; William Malbedeng
baron of
Nantwich; Vernon,
of
Shipbrook; Fitzhugh,
of
Malpas; Hamon de Massie Venables,
of
Kinderton;
and
Nicholas,
of
Stockport.
These were to assist the earl with their advice:
Ego comes
HUGO
et mei
BARONES, was the form of his writs. They were obliged to pay him attendance, and to repair to his court to give it the greater dignity. They were bound, in time of war with
Wales,
to find for every knight's-fee a horse with caparison and furniture, or two without furniture, in the division of
Cheshire.
Their knights and freeholders were to have corselets and habergeons, and were to defend their lands with their own bodies. Every baron had also four esquires; every esquire one gentleman; and every gentleman one valet
Erdeswicke
's MSS. quoted by Doctor
Gower,
p. 22.
. Each of these barons had also their free courts of all pleas and suits, and all plaints, except what belonged to the earl's
sword.
They had besides power of life and death. The last instance of the exertion of this power was in the person of
Hugh Stringer,
who was tried for murder in the baron of
Kinderton
's court, and executed in 1597
Doctor
Gower
's materials,
&c.
p. 22.
.
THE earls had their chamberlain, which supplied the place of chancellor; an office continued to this day. The first we know of was
Philippus Camerarius,
who took his name from his office, in the time of
Randle Gernouns
earl of
Chester.
Here is a baron of the exchequer, and other officers conformable to those of the crown at
Westminster:
also justices, before whom the causes which of their nature should otherwise belong respectively to the courts of king's-bench and common-pleas, are triable
Leicester, 152.
.
IN imitation of regal power, the earls appointed a high constable of
Cheshire,
correspondent to the high constable of
England;
which was held in fee by the baron of
Halton,
who by virtue of this office took place of the other barons; and the baron of
Montalt
had precedency (after him) by virtue of his office in fee, of high steward.
ROBERT DE ROTHELENT was another baron, who was commander in chief of the forces in
Cheshire,
and prime governor of the county under his cousin
Hugh Lupus.
As his office and rank dropt with him, he is not reckoned among the barons. Probably the office was found unnecessary, and clashing with the priveleges of the high constable.
THIS species of government continued from the Conquest till the reign of
Henry
III. a period of about 174 years; when, in 1237, on the death of
John Scot
(the seventh earl of the
Norman
line) without issue male,
Henry
took the earldom into his own hands, and gave the daughters of the late earl other lands in lieu; unwilling, as we said, that so great an inheritance should
be parcelled out among distaffs.
THE EARLDOM RESUMED BY THE CROWN.
The king bestowed the county on his son
Edward,
who did not assume the title; which he afterwards bestowed on his son
Edward
of
Caernarvon,
first
English
prince of
Wales.
AFTER the resumption of the earldom by the crown, the government of the city assumed a new form; for in the year 1242, the 26th of
Henry
III. it appears to have first been under the directions of a mayor and sheriffs. The mayor seems to have been the substitute for the constable; an office which, during the period of the
Norman
earls, was, under them, supreme in all matters military and civil, in both city and county. The sheriffs seem to have been a new name for bailiffs, who acted under the former
Vale royal, 161.
.
AFTER giving a general idea of the state of this place and county to the time of
Henry
III. I shall return to the time of
Hugh Lupus,
and give, to the best of my power, a brief chronological account of its history; leaving the ecclesiastical part to be treated apart.
IN the days of that potent earl, and probably long before he was possessed of this city, it enjoyed by prescription divers priveleges.
GUILD MIRCATORY.
It had a
guild mercatory
Ibid. 157.
, analogous to a modern corporation; so that no person who was not of that society could exercise any trade or carry on any commerce within its precinct. Such was the state in which the
Normans
found it; which the earls afterwards confirmed under their seals.
Two overseers, selected out of the most respectable citizens, were appointed to maintain the rights of this
guild.
They received, for the use of the city, all the customs paid by strangers, unless at the fairs, which in those days were said to have been held three times in the year. These officers were probably of the same nature as the deans of
guild
in
Scotland.
It appears also from the Doomsday book, that here was a supreme officer, called the
Prapesitus Regis,
or provost, who had the care both of the civil and commercial interests.
IT is difficult to say at this time what were the articles of exportation, excepting slaves and horses.
EXPORTS. SLAVES.
The first barbarous traffic was carried on by the
Saxons
to a great height. The description of the mart is an exact picture of the
negro
commerce
THERE is a town called
Brichstou (Bristol)
opposite to
Ireland,
and extremely convenient for trading with that country.
Wulfstan
induced them to drop a barbarous custom, which neither the love of God nor the king could prevale on them to lay aside. This was the mart for slaves, collected from all parts of
England;
and particularly young women, whom they took care to provide with a pregnancy, in order to enhance their value. It was a most moving sight to see, in the public markets, rows of young people of both sexes tied together with ropes; of great beauty, and in the flower of their youth, daily prossituted, daily sold. Execrable fact! wretched disgrace! Men, unmindful even of the affection of the brute creation! delivering into slavery their relations, and even their very offspring. Vita
S. Wulfstan,
in
Anglia
Sacra, ii. 258.
Wulsstan
was bishop of
Worcester,
and died in 1095.
at present; so little have we emerged from barbarism in that instance.
HORSES were another article;
HORSES, HIDES, &c.
but their exportation was prohibited, excepting they were designed for presents, by a law of
Athelstan.
But these, as well as several others, such as metals, hides, dogs, and chalk, were probably still exported, as in the times of the
Romans. Chester
was, admirably situated for supplying all these articles, excepting the last. The frequent wars carried on with the
Welsh,
furnished them with slaves; if those were wanting, their neighbors of the
Northumbrian
kingdom were ready to dispose of their nearest relations
Willielm. Malmesh.
in script. post,
Bedam, p. 17.
. The rich plains of
Cheshire
furnished horns and hides; and the
Cambrian
mines, lead and copper.
CHEESE must not be omitted,
CHEESE.
as a most important article; for the
Britons
made so great a progress in the arts of the dairy, that even under the
Roman
reign there was great exportation of cheeses for the use of the
Roman
armies; in which this county doubtlessly had the greatest share.
THE imports were the spices and other luxuries of the east,
IMPORTS.
procured either from
Venice,
or afterwards from the cities of
Pisa
and
Amalphi
Anderson,
i. 58, 59.
, the magazines of the precious
Asiatic
commodities.
CLOTH was brought from
Flanders,
and linen from
Germany
Idem, 52.
CLOTH. LINEN. RELIQUES.
; reliques and ecclesiastical finery from
Italy
Bedae Hist. Abb. Weremouth, 295, 297.
, the staple of superstition. Rich armour was another considerable article; for war and religion created in these ages the most important commerce of the state. The warriors and the sainted images were the beaux of the time; the crimes of the former were supposed to be readily expiated by prostration to the latter; and acceptance was announced by the priest in proportion to the value of the offering.
FRANCE and
Spain
supplied them with wine;
WIX
.
and the discovery made towards the north by
Ohthere,
under the directions of
Alfred,
FURS
gave us furs, whale-bone, feathers, walruses teeth, and other articles from that cold region
Translation of
Orofius,
by the honoarable DAINES BARRINGTON, 9, 12, 13.
. Martins skins are twice mentioned in the Doomsday book, among the imports of
Chester. Ireland
might also supply them with furs, and several other commodities; this being the channel of communication on that side of the kingdom, and the great mart for the
Irish
commodities. A sensible but uncouth poem, about the year 1430, published in
Hakluyt,
i. 199, gives us a list of its articles of commerce.
Hides and fish, salmon, hake, herringe,
Irish
wooll, and linnen cloth, faldinge,
And marterns good be her marchandie,
Hertes hides and other of venerie.
Skinnes of otter, squirrel, and
Irish
hare
Of sheepe, lambe, and foxe, is her chaffare,
Felles of kiddes, and conies great plentie.
It is certain that
Chester
had long been a celebrated port. It appears to have been a station for the
Saxon
navy; and frequently the seat of the court of the
Mercian
kingdom, both during the Heptarchy, and after it became a province at the general union under
Egbert.
THE state of this city, in the time of
Edward
the Confessor, and at the Conquest, must be collected from the famous survey the
Doomsday
book.
IT appears, that in the time of the
Saxon
monarch here were four hundred and thirty-one houses which were taxable, besides fifty-six that belonged to the bishop: that it yielded ten marks of silver and a half; two parts to the king, and the third to the earl: that whenever the king came in person, he clamed from every plough-land two hundred
hesthas,
one
cuna
of ale, and one
rusca
of butter
Hestha
is supposed to be a capon;
cuna
& brewing tub or vat. I do not find
rusca
explained.
: that if any persons made bad ale, they were either to sit in a chair full of dung, or pay four shilings: that there were twelve judges in the city, and seven mint-masters: that whenever repairs were wanting for the walls or the bridge, notice was given for one man out of every hide-land in the county to appear; and in case of absence, he was fined forty shillings, to be divided between the king and the earl: and that the city was so depopulated at the time that
Hugh Lupus
took possession, that there were two hundred and five houses fewer than in the time of the Confessor.
IT is probable that the city soon emerged from its calamities, and felt a considerable increase under its new masters, a more polished race; for the
Normans
affected as much elegance in their dress and their buildings, as they did temperance in their meat and drink. The example of a magnificent warrior, such as the new earl, was quickly copied. His court, and that of his successors, rendered it the most considerable place in these parts.
ACCORDING to
Lucian
Quoted by
Cambden
i. 672.
, a jolly monk who flourished about the time of the Conquest, its commerce was very considerable. He speaks of the ships
coming from
Gascoign, Spain, Ireland,
and
Germany,
who, by GOD'S assistance, and by the labour and conduct of mariners, repair hither and supply them with all sorts of commodities; so that being comforted with the favour of GOD in all things,
we drink wine plentifully;
for those countries have abundance of vineyards.
HERE,
1159
in 1159,
Henry
II. and
Malcolm
the IVth of
Scotland
had their interview; and the important cession was made to
Henry
by the latter, of the three counties of
Northumberland, Cumberland,
and
Westmoreland,
formerly wrested from the
English
crown
Fordun, i. 449.
.
BALDWIN, archbishop of
Canterbury,
1188
in 1188, visited this place, in his road from
Wales,
where his zeal led him to recommend the
Croisade
to the mountaneers, assisted by the eloquent and vain
Giraldus.
All the historian takes notice of in this respectable city is, that
Constance
countess of
Chester
kept a herd of milch hinds, made cheeses of their milk, and presented three to the archbishop: that he saw an animal, a compound of an ox and a stag; a woman born without arms, who could sew as well with her feet as others of her sex did with their fingers; and finally, that he heard of a litter of whelps begotten by a monkey
Itin. Cambr. c. xi. p. 87.
. As
Giraldus
was a great dealer in presages, it is wondrous he made no use of all these portents: probably no signal event happened in these parts in his days, to which they could be applied.
THE next remarkable occurrences were the ravages of
Llewelyn ap Gryffydd,
1255.
prince of
Wales,
who carried fire and sword to the very gates of
Chester,
and destroyed every thing around on both sides of the river; provoked by the cruel injuries his subjects sustained from
Geffrey Langley,
lieutenant of the county under prince
Edward
Walstngham, p. 467; who places this event in 1255.
.
THIS city seems to have been a constant rendezvous of troops, and
place d'armes
for every expedition on this side of the
kingdom,
from the times of the
Normans
to the conquest of
Ireland
by
William
III. In 1257,
Henry
III. summons his nobility
Rymer, i. 635.
to attend with their vassals at
Chester
on a certain day, in order to invade
Wales,
and revenge the inroads of the
Welsh;
and the bishops
Idem, 636.
were at the same time required to appear there on the same occasion.
EDWARD I. in 1275,
1275.
appointed this city as the place of receiving the homage of
Llewelyn;
to which that high-spirited prince deelining to submit
Powel, 333. Rymer, ii. 53.68.
, brought on the war, which concluded with the destruction of him and his principality.
AND in this city was received,
1300.
in 1300, the final acknowlegement of the
Welsh
to the sovereignty of
England,
by
Edward
of
Caernarvon
prince of
Wales,
when the freeholders of the country did homage and fealtie for their respective lands
Powel, 382.
.
RICHARD II.
1397.
visited the capital of his favorite and loyal county; and did it the distinguished honor of converting it into a principality, and annexing to it the castle of
Holt,
the lordship of
Bromefield
and
Yale, Chirkland,
and several other places in
Wales
and on the borders. But
Henry
IV. in his fourth year, rescinded an act that incroached so much on the dignity of his son as prince of
Wales
Statutes at large, 21 Rich. II. c. 9.
.
HENRY IV. in 1399,
1399.
seized the city and castle, in his way to
Flint
against his ill-fated monarch
Richard
II. and on his return secured him for one night in the fortress; and barbarously put to death Sir
Perkin a Legh,
and other gentlemen, whom he took with their unfortunate master.
DURING the insurrection of
Glendwr,
this city was made a rendezvous of the royal forces, and a
place d'armes.
It does not appear that our countryman ever made any attempt on it, notwithstanding numbers of the gentry of this gallant county favored his cause
Rymer viii. 333.
. But the country was unhappily divided; and continued so during the civil wars that raged between the houses of
York
and
Lancaster.
The spirited
Margaret,
in order to keep up the interest of her party, made a progress into the county in 1455, and visited this city
Fale-royal, 185.
.
1455.
In 1459,
1459.
soon before the battle of
Bloreheath,
she made another, and took with her the
Meek Usurper,
her husband
Henry
VI. and her son
Edward.
She kept a public table wherever she went; and bestowed on the
Cheshire
gentlemen, that espoused her cause, little silver swans, the badge of the young prince, as the cognisance of the
Lancastrians
Speed's Hist, 858.
. She appointed
James
lord
Audley
to command the
Cheshire
forces.
Michael Drayton
gives an animated description of the effects of civil discord on this occasion: he acquaints us that
Audley
So labour'd, till that he had brought
That t'half of one house gainst the other fought.
So that two men arising from one bed
Falling to talk, from one another fly;
This wears a white rose, and that wears a red;
And this a YORK, that LANCASTER doth cry:
HE wish'd to see that AUDLEY well had sped;
He
prays again to prosper SAL'SBURY.
AND for their farewel, when their leaves they take,
THEY their sharp swords at one another shake
The Miseries of Queen Margaret, part iv.
.
DANIEL KING tells us, that
Edward
prince of
Wales,
son to
Edward
IV. came to
Chester
before
Christmas
1475,
1475.
and was immediately conveyed to the castle with great triumph.
Edward
must have designed this only as a compliment to his friends in these parts, his son being at this time a child of four years of age. Such marks of royal favor were not unfrequent.
Henry
VII. and his queen came here in 1493;
1493.
and
Henry
sent his son
Arthur
to visit the place in 1497.
1497.
THIS city had also its share in the calamitous distempers of the times. In 1506,
1506.
it was visited by that endemic disorder the
sweating-sickness,
which destroyed, in three days, ninety-one householders. The remark, of this destroying-angel's respect to the female sex, was verified here; for only four perished.
IN 1517,
1517.
it was followed by the pestilence, when such numbers died, and such numbers fled, that the streets of the city were overgrown with grass.
IT appears that the citizens of
Chester
were not less celebrated for their dramatic performances than those of
Coventry
Dugdale, i. 249.
.
1529.
They exhibited two species; one formed upon moral romance, the other on scriptural history. In this year they enacted at the high-cross the play of
Robert
kyng of
Cicyle,
or
Robert le Dia
borrowed from the
French
morality of that name.
Here i
of kyng
Robert
of
Cicyle,
Hou pride did him beguile
Mr. WARTON'S Hist. Poetry, i. 1
4 Daniel King
calls it the play of
Robert Cecill.
.
ROBERT, like another
Nebuchadnezzar,
thought himself beyond the power of any being, divine or human. Heaven, in order to humble him, causes a deep sleep to fall on him in church: when the congregation is dismissed, an angel assumes his form, and deceives his attendants, who follow the angelic king into the palace, where he takes
Robert
's place.
Robert
awakes; runs to his palace; is disowned; seized as an impostor, and at last appointed
fool of the hall
to the new king; and,
Clothed in lodly
Loathsome.
garnement
With ffoxes tayles mony aboute
Men mihte him knowen in the route.
After a very long and ignominious penance, the angel finds
Robert
effectually cured of his presumption, quits his mission, and restores the poor king to his throne.
THE year 1532 reminds me of the religious dramas being performed in this city.
1532. WHITSON PLAYS.
These are the famous interludes known by the name of
Mysteries,
originally composed in the years 1327 and 1328, by
Randal Higgenet,
a monk of
Chester
abby, as this prologue acquaints us.
Reverend lords and ladyes alle,
That at this tyme assembled be;
By this messauge understond you shall,
That some tymes ther was mayor of this citie
Sir
John Arnway.
knight; who most worthilye
Contented hymselfe to set out in playe
The devise of one
Dane Rondall,
moonke of
Chester
abbey.
RONDAL, it seems, first composed these Mysteries in
Latin
and took true pains to obtain leave to exhibit them in an
English
dress, having made three journies to
Rome
for his Holiness's permission
Harleian
MSS. 2124.
. Others again were the labors of Sir
Henry Frances,
another monk, as appears by the proclamation for the
Whitson
plays in this year, made by the clerk of the Pentice, setting forth, that in
Oulde tyme, not only for the augmentation and increes of the holy and catholick faith, and to exort the minds of the common people to good deuotion and holsome doctrine, but also for the comonwelth of this citty, a play and declaration of divers storyes of the Bible, beginning with the creacion, and fall of
Lucifer,
and ending with the generall judgement of the world, to be declared and played in the
Whitsonne
weeke, was devised and made by Sir
Henry Frances,
sometyme moonke there; who gat of
Clement,
then bushop of
Rome,
1000 dayes or pardon, and of the bushop of
Chester
at that tyme, 40 dayes of pardon, to every person resorting in peaceable maner to heare the sayd playes; which were insituted to the honor of God by
John Arnway,
then major of
Chester,
his brethren and whole cominalty thereof; to be brought forth, declared, and played, at the cost and charges of the craftesmen and occupations of the sayd citty,
&c. &c.
Harleian.
MSS. 2013.
.
THESE plays had probably been dropt for a considerable time; which occasioned the proclamation, in the reign of that pageant-loving prince
Henry
VIII. Forty-three years had elapsed since the last performance of this nature, when the
Assumption of our Lady
was played before his brother
Arthur,
at the abbygates of this city.
THESE Mysteries were the rude origin of the
English
theatre. Our drama, as the very ingenious Mr.
Warton
remarks, was in early times confined entirely to religious subjects; and these plays were nothing more than an appendage to the specious and mechanical devotion of the age
History of
English
Poetry, i, 237.
. I refer the reader to that gentleman's amusing history of the rise and progress of these performances; and confine myself to a few specimens of the gross and ridiculous exhibitions of the times; when the audience listened with the fullest admiration and devotion to what would at present fill a theatre with laughter from the gay, at the absurdity, or scandalize the serious part, with the (unintentional) impiety. I shall only premise, that the scene of action was the church, in defiance of the fulminations of the furious
Bonner,
and the pious
G
indal.
THESE plays were twenty-five in number. They were performed for above three centuries, to the staring audience; who received the unvaried subject with the same annual pleasure as the
Romans
did the farces in their days of honest simplicity.
Tandemque redit ad pulpita notum
Exodium, cum personae pallentis hiatum
In gremio matris sormidat rusticus infans.
Juv. Sat. iii.
The same rude song returns upon the crowd,
And by tradition is for wit allow'd.
The mimic yearly gives the same delights,
And in the mother's arms the clownish infant frights.
DRYDEN.
They do not appear to us in the words of the original deviser: but, the language and the poetry being grown obsolete, they were altered to that of the time, for the performance of the year 1600, and were acted by the craftsmen of the twenty-five companies, who were all dressed in suitable habits.
1. THE Tanners performed the play or pageant of the Fall of
Lucifer;
and in the course of the prologue are thus instructed:
NOWE, you worshippfull Tanners, that of custome olde
The fall of
Lucifer
did sette out:
Some writers a warrante, your matter therfor be shoulde
Craftelye to playe the same to all the rowtte;
Your authour his auther hath: your shewe let it be
Good speech, syne players, with apparrill comelye.
SHAKESPEAR certainly formed his
personae dramatis
of mechanics, his
Quinees, Snugs, Snouts,
and
Starvelings,
in the Midsummer-Night's Dream, from performers of this kind.
2. THE Drapiers enacted the Creation of the World.
Adam
and
Eve
appeared literally naked, and were
not ashamed,
till after the fall, when they proposed, according to the stage-direction, to make themselves
subligacula a foliis, quibus tegamus pudenda,
and made their appearance with an apron of fig-leaves, sticking religiously to the account given in the third chapter of
Genesis.
3. THE Water leaders and drawers of the
Dee,
took, with great propriety, the History of the
Deluge;
which being handled in a very diverting manner, I shall transcribe as a pattern of the rest. Their prologue tells them,
that
Noe
shall goe into the
arke,
with all his femylye, his wyfe excepte.
After the long catalogue of birds, beasts,
&c.
which are supposed to have entered the vessel, Noah thus calls to his spouse:
NOYE
This is copied from the MS. in the
B
dlcian
Library.
.
Wyfe, come in, whie stands thou there?
Thou art ever froward, that sure I sweare;
Come in on God's half, tyme it were,
For feare lest that wee drowne.
NOYES Wief.
You Sir, sett up your sayle,
And rowe forth with evill hayle;
For, withouten land fayle,
I will not out of this grove.
But I have my gossopes evry ech one.
One fote further I will not gone;
They shall not drown, by Saint
John,
And I maye save ther lyves.
They loved me full well by
Christ;
But thou wilt lett them into thie chest,
Ellis row forth maye when thou liste,
And get thee another wief.
NOYE.
Sem, sonne, nowe thie mother is war o woe,
By
God
faith another I doe not knowe.
SEM.
Father, I shall fetch her in, I trow
Withouten anie faile.
Mother, my father after thee sends,
And biddes thee into yonder ship wends;
Look upe and see the winds,
For we bene readie to sayle.
NOYE'S Wief.
Sonne, go agayne to him, and saye,
I will not come therein to daye.
NOYE.
Come in, wief, in twentie devill waye,
Or allis stand there without.
CHAM.
Shall we all setch her in?
NOYE.
Yea, sonnes, in
Christ
's blessing and mine,
I would ye hied yea be tyme;
For of this flood I stand in doubt.
THE GOOD GOSSOPES.
The flood comes fleeting in apace,
One every side it spredeth full fare;
For feare of drowning I am agast.
Good gessopes, let us draw neare,
And let us drink are we depart;
For ofte tymes we have done so:
For at a draught thou drinks a quart,
And so will I doe or I goe.
Here is a pottell, full of malmesay good and strong;
It will rejoyce both hart and tong;
Though
Noy
think us never so long,
Yet wee will drink a tyte.
JAPHET.
Mother, we pray you altogether;
For we are here your owne children;
Come into the ship for feare of the wedder,
For his love that you bought.
NOYES Wief.
That I will not far all your call,
But I have my gossopes all.
SEM.
In faith, mother, yet you shall,
Whether you will or mongst.
NOE.
Well me wief into this boate.
NOE'S Wyfe.
Have you that for thie note. [Gives
Noah
a box in the car.]
NOE.
A ha,
Mary!
this is whote:
It is good for to be still.
A, children! methink my boat remeves;
Our tarrying here heughly me greves:
On the land the water spreads:
GOD doe as he will.
4. THE Barbers and Wax-chandlers told how
Abraham
returned from the slaughter of the four kings,
&c.
5. THE Cappers and Linen-drapers took up the story of
Balaam
and his ass; and make the prophet accost his beast in terms too low and ludicrous to be repeated. This animal had far greater respect paid it in a neighboring kingdom; for feasts were held in honor of it. The
sesta asinaria,
or
feasts of asses,
were celebrated in
France
in the beginning of the fifteenth century
Memoires, &c. de la Fcte des Foux, 14. See also more of it in Mr.
Warton
's History of Poetry, i. 246.
; when the beast, covered with a cope, was introduced into church, attended by the clergy, and saluted with the following hymn:
Orientis partibus
Adventavit asinus
Pulcher et fortissimus
Sarcinis aptissimus.
Hè, fire Ane, hè.
Hie in Collibus sicsen
Enutritus sub
Ruben
Transsit per
Jordanem,
Saliit in
Bethleem.
Hè, fire Ane, hè.
Saltu vincit hinnulos
Dagmas et capreolos,
Super Dromedarios
Velox
Madianeos.
Hè, fire Ane, hè.
Aurum de
Arabia,
Thus et myrrham de
Saba
Tulit in ecclesia
Virtus asinaria.
Hè, fire Ane, hè.
Dum trahit vehicula
Multa cum sarcinula,
Illius mandibula,
Dura terit pabula.
Hè, fire Ane, hè.
Amen dicas, Asine,
Jam satur ex gramine,
Amen, amen, itera,
Aspernare vetera,
Hè, fire Ane, hè.
Cum aristis hordeum
Comedit et carduum
Triticum a palea
Segregat in area.
Hè, fire Ane, hè.
6. THE Wrights and Slaters rehersed the
Beirth of Christe.
7. The Painters and Glaziers, the Appearance of the Angels to the Shepherds. 8. The Vintners, the Departure of the Wise men, or three Kings of the east, in search of our Saviour. 9. The Mercers, the Offerings of the three Kings. 10. The Goldsmiths the Murder of the Innocents; and give a curious dialogue between the soldiers and the women. 11. The Blacksmiths shew how Christ disputed with the doctors in the temple. 12. The Butchers, how he was led by the Spirit into the wilderness. 13. The Glovers tell of the death of
Lazarus.
14. The Corvisors, of
Jesus
and the Lepers. 15. The Bakers, of the last Supper. 16. The Fletchers, Bowyers, Coopers, and Stringers, chose the History of the Passion. 17. The Ironmongers, the Crucifixion. 18. The Cooks relate the descent of
Christ
into Hell, and what he did there; which concludes with our Saviour redeeming out of Purgatory all the saints, and leaving behind only one poor woman (probably a real character at the composition of this curious
drama
) whose crimes she confesses in a long speech:
Some time I was a tavernere,
A gentel gossepp, and a tapstere
Of wine and ale a trusty brewer,
Which woo hath me bewrought.
Of cannes I kepe no true measure;
My cuppes I solde at my pleasure,
Deceavinge many a creature,
Tho' my ale were noughte.
She is then welcomed by the devils; which closes the piece, and all I shall relate of those heaps of absurdities.
THE city had,
1542 PUBLIC STEWS.
till this time, been indulged with public stews or brothels, which, for some centuries, were permitted by legislative authority, and regulated by wholesome laws, ordained by the commons, and confirmed by the king and lords. hose of
Southwark
were attended to in a particular manner in 1161, the 8th of
Henry
II. One article affords reason to believe, that a certain disease had a much earlier date than the siege of
Naples;
for it prohibits the stew-holders from keeping any woman that hath the
perillous infirmity of burning
Stow's
Hist.
London,
II. book iv. 7.
. Their houses were distinguished by having the fronts whitewashed, by having signs, not hung out, but painted against the walls. Among the signs, I observe the singular one of the cardinal's hat. Notwithstanding the keepers were protected in their profession, they were reckoned infamous, were not to be impannelled on any juries, or allowed to hold a tavern
Drake's
Parlem. Hist. ii. 233.
. The women that frequented them were forbidden the rites of the church, as long as they exercised their profession, and were excluded from Christian burial, if they were not reconciled before their death.
Henry
VIII. suppressed the
Surry
houses in 1537; those in this city in 1542.
THIS year was distinguished by one of the cruel deeds that marked the reign of the bigotted
Mary;
1554.
the burning of
George Marsh,
for his adherence to the Protestant faith. I have often been informed by the worthy Doctor
William Cooper,
that when
Marsh
was brought to
Boughton,
the place of execution, by the sheriffs
Amory
and
Cooper,
the last, an ancestor of the Doctor; favoring the religion of the sufferer, attempted his rescue; but being overpowered by his brother-officer, was obliged to fly till better times, when he returned, and discharged the office of mayor in 1561.
FESTIVE times now took place again,
1564.
probably in compliment to the taste of the glorious but romantic Queen
Elizabeth.
In the year 1564, upon the
Sunday
after Midsummer, in the mayoralty of Sir
Lawrence Smith,
the history of
Aenecs
and queen
Dido
was played on the
Reed's-eye,
set forth by
William Croston,
gent. and Mr.
Man;
on which triumph was made two forts, and shipping on the water, besides many horsemen well armed and appointed.
The forts and shipping seem to have been pageants, to carry on some deeds of chivalry. We hear of the ship
Fame, laden with good Renowme,
among the pageantries of
Henry
Holinshed, 809.
; and the
Fortresse of Beautie, assailed by virtuous Desire,
among those of
Elizabeth
The same, 1317.
. The assailants battered it with nosegays; and the besieged discharged against them cannons filled with sweet powder, or odoriferous waters.
DURING Sir
Lawrence
's mayoralty, we have an account of another
spectacle,
an annual one, upon the watch of the even of St.
John the Baptist,
for Sir
Lawrence
and the aldermen and common-council, contract with two painters to have in
readiness, with all furniture thereto belonging,
viz.
four gyants, one unicorne, one dromedarye, one luce, one camell, one asse, one dragon, six hobbye horses, and sixteen naked boyes; and the same being in readines, shall beare or carry, or cause to be borne and carryed, duringe the watche, from place to place, accordinge as the same have been used,
&c.
Harlcian
MSS. No 1968. 9.
I am at a loss to guess the end of this preparation: but find that it was suppressed during the mayoralty of 1599.
THE virtue of
Edward Dutton,
1604.
mayor or the city in 1604, must not pass unnoticed. This worthy magistrate, like
Marseilles
' good bishop, kept his station during the whole time of a dreadful pestilence;
When nature sickened, and each gale was death.
HIS house was infected, and some of his children and servants died. The court of exchequer was removed to
Tarvin;
the
assizes were held at
Namptwich;
and the fairs ceased during this sad visitation.
IN this year the city was honored with the presence of
James
I. where he was received with a magnificence that did honor to the place.
The mayor.
Edward Button,
presented his majesty with a fair standing cup, with a cover double gilt, and in it a hundred jacobins or gold. He also delivered the city's sword to the king, who returning it, the mayor bore it before him on horseback. His worship was offered the honor of knighthood, but declined it. The city did not confine its munificence to crowned heads; I find, that in 1583,
Robert
earl of
Leicester,
chamberlain of the county palatine, met with a most honorable reception; was received at the high-cross by the whole corporation, entertained by the mayor, and presented with a cup containing forty angels. The unfortunate earl of
Essex,
in 1598, in his way to
Ireland,
was still more distinguished. He was presented with the like sum; but in a cup of the same kind as that which was afterwards presented to
James.
FROM 1617, I discover nothing very particular for a considerable space; till the city was involved in the calamities of a siege in 1
45-6, in consequence of its unshaken loyalty to
Charles
I. At the beginning of the civil war, immediate attention was paid to this important city, by the royal party. The fortifications were put into the best repair, and outworks extended from the alcove on the north part of the walls, to the brink of the river near
Boughton;
and in consequence, numbers of houses were pulled down, to prevent them from giving shelter to the enemy. The first attempt made on the place by the parlement army was on the 20th of
July
1643, when Sir
William Brereton
gave a violent assault on the works; but met with a repulse. In the same year he sent a summons to Sir
Abraham Shipman,
then governor, to surrender: the gallant commander bid him come and win it and wear it.
AFTER the repulse of Lord
Biron
before
Namptwich,
the county of
Chester
was almost entirely in the hands of Sir
William Brereton,
and the city suffered from that time a sort of blockade, from the quarters the enemy possessed in the neighborhood, even as near as the village of
Christleton.
Sallies and excursions were frequently made; and, according to the diary of the siege with advantage to the loyalists.
ON
September
the 19th 1645, the parlement gained an advantage irrecoverable by the besieged. Colonel
Jones
and adjutant-general
Lothian,
who were employed in the reduction of
Beeston
castle, drew from before that place, in a secret manner, a large body of forces, and in the night stormed the outworks, and made themselves masters of every thing, even to the city walls. His majesty, immediately after this misfortune, passed through
Wales,
and got into the city, in hopes of animating the garrison, and was lodged at Sir
Francis Gamul
's, near the bridge. He arrived only time enough to be a spectator, from the leads of the
Phoenix
tower, of the fatal battle on
Rowton
heath, on
September
24; when his forces, under Sir
Marmaduke Langdale,
then on their march to raise the siege, after a well-disputed action, sunk under the superior fortune of general
Pointz.
THE king continued that night in
Chester;
and on quitting it the next day, gave orders to the governor, lord
Biron,
that in case there was no appearance of relief within eight days, he was to treat of a surrender. The king took the route of
Den-high,
attended to that town by the three respectable citizens, Sir
Francis Gamul,
alderman
Cooper,
and captain
Thropp.
The siege was continued with the utmost vigour by Sir
William Brereton;
notwithstanding which, the gallant garrison held out for twenty weeks, beyond the expectation of every body: and, after having been reduced to live on horses, dogs, and cats, yielded, on the 3d of
February
1645-6, on terms that did honor to the spirit of the besieged. The city was evacuated by the royalists; and received from the parlement, as governor, colonel
Jones.
But the miseries of the citizens did not terminate with the siege: a dreadful pestilence broke out in 1647: two thousand inhabitants perished, and the city became almost a desert.
IN order to give a further history of the military,
BRIDGE.
civil, and ecclesiastical architecture of this antient city, I return to the bridge. This passage was prior to the Conquest; at which period it seems to have been either destroyed, or found to be so much out of repair, that I find in
Doomsday book
an order for the provost to summon one man from each hide of land in the county, in order to re-build the bridge and the walls; and, in case of neglect of appearance, the lord of the person so summoned was to forfeit to the king and earl forty shillings.
ACCORDING to a MS. quoted by Mr.
Grose,
it was begun by the great restorer of the city,
Ethelfieda,
and after her death completed by her brother
Edward.
Before that time, the passage was by a ferry that plied between the postern, called the
Ship-gate,
and
Edgar
's field. It does not appear to me that any part of the
Saxon
bridge remains; so frequently has it been repaired since that distant period.
BENEATH the arch next to the city,
CAUSEWAY AND MILLS.
is a current, which, by means of a great dam or causeway that crosses the river obliquely, supplies the city mills with water. These mills and the causeway were originally founded by
Hugh Lupus
Harleian
MSS. 2082. 10. 2003. 41. 43.
, and retained by his successors, and afterwards by the earls of
Chester
of the royal line. I find them often leased by the crown;
Edward
the black prince, in particular, in 1355, grants them, the fishing, suit, court, and calsey, for three years, to
Robert
of
Bredone,
parson of St.
Peter
of
Chester,
and others, at the annual rent of 190
l.
Idem, 2081. 21.
. This rent was very considerable in those days; and arose from the obligation every inhabitant of the city then lay under to grind at these mills, excepting the tenants of the abbot and monks of St.
Werburgh,
and, in after times, those of the dean and chapter, inhabiting without the
North-gate,
who had a mill of their own at
Bachpool.
I MUST not omit, that a grant of these mills for life was the reward of valor to my countryman Sir
Howel y Fwyall,
for his bravery in taking prisoner
John
king of
France,
in the battle of
Poitiers.
This grant was also made by the black prince, who not only knighted
Howel,
but allowed a mess of meat to be served before his battle ax, in memory of the good use he made of it in that day; from which he acquired the name of
Fwyall,
or
Howei
or the ax
Hist.
Gwedir
family. Fifteen tribes of
N.Wales.
.
ON each side of the
Bridge-gate
are two rounders:
BRIDGE-GATE.
over it are the three feathers, the arms of the princes of
Wales.
Those were first assumed by the BLACK PRINCE after the battle of
Cresh,
in 1346: our historians assert, that they were the three ostrich-feathers which the king of
Bohemia
bore that day in his coronet; and that he was slain by
Edward,
who seizing on the crest, bore from that time both the feathers and the motto
I
b dien, I serve.
I am unwilling to sully the honor of our gallant prince, by supposing that he would stain his sword in so unequal an encounter. The king was blind with age; and, finding the battle go against his allies, was led, by his own orders, into the rage of the combat, determined to die in the cause of
France.
Our brave prince, probably, might assume this royal cognizance in memory of the glorious day, and add to it his own motto,
Ic dien,
the old
English
for
I serve
allusive to the Scriptural verse,
The heir while he is a child differeth not from a servant
Cambden
's Remains, 344.
, an imprese extremely suitable to the characteristic modesty and filial piety of this prince.
THIS and the other city gates were placed under the protection of certain great men, who held lands within the county palatine. The earl of
Shrewshury
had the care of the
Bridge-gate;
the earl of
Oxford,
of the
East-gate;
the earl of
Derby,
of the
Water-gate.
But the
North-gate,
belonging peculiarly to the city, was intrusted only to its chief magistrates. Tolls were exacted at entrance, from all strangers, for the support of the guard; and, notwithstanding the cause has long since ceased, are still demanded at the
Bridge-gate.
ABOVE the gate is a lofty octagonal tower,
WATER-WORKS.
begun in 1600, by permission of the corporation, by
John Tyrer
of this city, containing the works which for a long time raised water out of the
Dee
to a cistern in the top, whence it was conveyed in pipes to almost all parts of the city. Possibly these did not answer their purpose effectually; for in 1622,
Tyrer
had a new grant of a tower erected for a water-work and a well-place, ten feet square, near
Spittle Boughton,
with full powers for the conveyance of the water to the cistern or conduit near the high-cross. This work (which was first begun by the
black friers
in the time of
Edward
I.
De aquaeductu per ipsos (the black friers) faciendo a fonte prope furcas. Vide
Tanner,
65.
) fell to decay. In 1692, the works undertaken by
Tyrer
being found to be ruinous and useless,
John Hopkins
and
John Hadley,
by the encouragement of the corporation, began new works for supplying the city with water from the river
Dee:
for this purpose, they purchased the grant made to
Tyrer,
and also one of the corn-mills, for the conveniency of placing their engine. The city confirmed to them all the powers formerly vested in
Tyrer,
and particularly that of setting up a cistern opposite to the abby court, as a constant receptacle for fresh water.
NEAR the
Bridge-gate
is one ascent to the city walls;
WALLS.
which are the only entire specimen of antient fortification now in
Great Britain.
They are a mile and three quarters, and a hundred and one yards in circumference; and, being the principal walk of the inhabitants, are kept in excellent repair, by certain imposts,
MURRACE
called murage duties, collected at the custom-house, upon all goods and merchandize brought into the port of
Chester
from parts beyond the seas, belonging to persons not freemen of the city. The
Irish
linen adds considerably to the fund, being nearly two-thirds of the whole: the duty on this article is two pence on every hundred yards. The annual receipt of the different duties, on the average of the last seven years, is about 1
0
l..
An officer, called a murenger, is chosen out of the body of the aldermen, to inspect the repairs; generally an old member, to whom the duty affords amusement and health. This fund is now permanent: in old times, the murage was only occasional. Thus, in the 14th of
Edward
II. there was a grant for two years of a half-penny for every cranock of corn; and a farthing of ale, meal, and malt; and for commodities not expressed in the grant, a farthing out of every two shillings-worth.
I CANNOT discover any vestige of the original walls, such as those which are said to have been restored by the warlike
Ethelfleda.
I would not willingly detract from the lady's merit; but I must deny her that of being the foundress of the fortifications, and of enlarging the city beyond the
Roman
precincts. The form at present is so entirely
Roman,
that any addition she could make would have destroyed the peculiar figure that wise people always preserved in their stations or castrametations, wheresoever the nature of the ground would permit. The antiquities which distinguish their residence are not found confined to any one quarter: they are met in digging on every side within the walls.
THE military architecture is still entirely on the
Roman
plan; it is probable, that after their retreat it fell into ruin, in the empoverished, turbulent, and barbarous ages that succeeded, yet never was so totally demolished, but that it might still yield a defence to the possessors. We find it wrested out of the hands of the
Britons
by
Egbert,
in 828: we again see it possessed by the
Danes
in 895, and besieged by
Alfred,
who slew all the banditti whom he found
without the walls;
and, lastly, we find it taken by
Ethelfleda,
by the voluntary surrender of the garrison. All this proves a continuance of the fortifications, probably ruinous, and wanting that restoration which they found from that illustrious woman.
WE see the
Roman
mode of fortification preserved to this day, exactly on the antient plan. From each side of the gates projects a
propugnaculum
Vegetius,
lib. iv. c. 4.
or bastion, in order to annoy the enemy who attempted to enter; and between them, in the very entrance, was the
cataracta
or portcullis, ready to be dropt in case they forced the gates, so that part of them might be caught within the walls, and the rest excluded. Should it happen that they set the gates on fire, there were holes above, in order to pour down water to extinguish the flames.
THE walls are in many parts, especially on the north and cast sides, guarded by towers, placed so as not to be beyond bow-shot of one another, in order that the archers might reach the enemy who attempted to attack the intervals
Intervalla autem turrium ita sunt facienda ut ne longius sit alia ab alia sagittae intermissione, &c,
Vitruvius,
lib. i. c. 5.
. They also are mostly of a round form, as was recommended by the
Roman
architects, in order the better to elude the force of battering rams
Turres itaque rotundae aut polygoniae sunt faciendae,
quadratas
enim machinae celerius dissipant,
&c.
Ibid. Turres sunt projiciendae in exteriorem partem, uti cum ad murum hostis impetu velit appropinquare, a turribus,
&c.
Ibid.
.
THE thickness of the walls answer to the breadth prescribed by
Vitruvius.
Only two persons can walk abreast, excepting where the ground adjacent gives a larger expanse. The great architect directs, that they should be of such a breadth, that two armed men may pass each other without any impediment.
THE city to this time enjoys the four gates; answerable to the
principalis dextra & sinistra, praetoria & decumana.
The
East-gate,
one of the
principales,
existed within my memory.
MY walk leads me beneath the castle, to another of the
principales,
the present
Water-gate,
that opens towards the waterside, and near which the
Dee
in former times flowed.
AT the extreme angle of the city, beyond this gate, is a salient tower, exactly round,
WATER-TOWER.
unless where interrupted by a small squared projection at the entrance. This tower is joined to the walls by a deep open gallery, embattled on each side, beneath is a large arch for the passage of the tide, before the late inclosures, which also are within my remembrance. This tower is at present called the
Water-tower.
It jutted into the antient channel or the river, where the ships lay, which fastened their cables to its sides by the great iron rings infixed in the stone. This tower was formerly called the new; yet was founded in 1320; for there exists a contract for that purpose, between the mayor and citizens of
Chester
and one
John de Helpston,
mason, for building
quandam turrem rotundum,
&c. a round tower
of the thickness of ten yards and a half, with a cavity within; twenty-four yards high, and so strong as to be defensible;
and all this for the sum of one hundred pounds
Harleian MSS. No 2046. 10.
.
THE next remarkable outlet is the
North-gate,
beyond which is a large suburb.
THE
Phoenix
tower stands on the angle of the walls beyond this gate. The present tower was built in 1613, and was used by six of the companies of the city as a chamber for business. It took its name from the fabulous bird, the crest of the painter-stainers company, which was placed in front.
THE
East-gate
is the next entrance.
EAST-GATE.
Here stood a lofty square tower, with many apartments, erected (according to tradition) by
Edward
III. This had been a
Porta principalis,
was the grand entrance into the town, and was the termination of the great
Watling-street
road, which crossed the island from
Dover,
and was the great road from that port to this place. In 1769, this gate, being found too narrow and inconvenient, was pulled down, and a magnificent arch arose in its room, at the sole expence of
Richard
lord
Grosvenour.
Beyond this is a vast suburb, called the
Forest-street;
whose lower part was defended by a gate, demolished as a nusance within these few years.
AFTER passing the
East-gate,
the traveller will observe, without the walls, a vast foss cut through the live rock, now a common road to the water; but which appears to me to have been a work of the
Romans,
as a defence on this side, and which continues the rectangular shape of the station.
THE views from the several parts of the walls are extremely elegant.
FINE-VIEWS.
The mountains of
Flintshire
and
Denbighshire,
the hills of
Broxton,
and the insulated rock of
Beeston,
form the ruder part of the scenery, a rich flat gives a softer view; and the prospect up the river towards
Boughton
recalls, in some degree, the idea of the
Thames
and
Richmond-bill.
ON the Conquest, as has been before related, the king visited this city in person, and restored the fortifications, It is probable that he only repaired the walls, but that he entirely re-built the castle
Ordericus Vitalis, 516.
on the
Norman
model, and enlarged it far beyond the dimensions of that of the
Saxons,
which occupied the summit of the mount or little hill on which the fortress stands. That part is artificial, in order to give a great elevation, as was customary in the
Saxon
keeps; and the portion so flung up appears here to have been a mixture of stones and exceedingly hard clay.
THE castle is composed of two parts, an upper and a lower: each with a strong gate,
CASTLE.
defended by a round bastion on each side, with a ditch, and formerly with draw-bridges. Within the precincts of the upper
Ballium
are to be seen some towers of
Norman
architecture, square, with square projections at each corner, very slightly salient. The handsomest is that called
Julius Caesar
's. Its entrance is through a large Gothic door, probably of later workmanship. The lowest room has a vaulted roof, strengthened with ordinary square couples. The upper had been a chapel, as appears by the holy-water pot, and some figures, almost obsolete, painted on the walls. Its dimensions are nineteen feet four inches, by sixteen six, the height also sixteen feet six. The roof is vaulted; but the couples, which are rounded, slender, and elegant, run down the walls, and rest on the cornuted capitals of five short but beautiful round pillars, in the same style with those in the chapter-house of the cathedral; probably the work of the same architect. The arsenal, some batteries, and certain habitable buildings, occupy the remaining part.
ON the sides of the lower court stands the noble room called
Hugh Lupus
's hall,
LUPUS'S HALL.
in which the courts of justice for the county are held. The length is very near ninety-nine feet; the breadth forty-five; the height very aweful, and worthy the state-apartment of a great baron. The roof supported by woodwork, in a bold style, carved; and placed on the sides, resting on stout brackets.
THIS magnificent building probably retains its original dimensions. The character of the first
Norman
earl required a hall suited to the greatness of his hospitality; which was confined to no bounds. 'He was,' says
Ordericus
Lib, iv. p 522.
,
not only liberal, but prosuse. He did not carry a family with him, but an army. He kept no account of receits or disbursements. He was perpetually wasting his estates: and was much fonder of falconers and huntsmen, than of cultivators of the land and holy men: and by his gluttony he grew so excessively fat, that he could hardly crawl about.
ADJOINING to the end of this great hall is the court of exchequer,
EXCHEQUER
or the chancery of the county palatine of
Chester.
The earl of
Cholmondely
is the present chamberlain; Sir
Richard Perrin,
my worthy countryman, sits and discharges the office of vice-chamberlain. In respect to matters of equity, he here acts as lord chancellor. The chamberlain was one of the antient earl's great officers, and had a fee of twenty-two pounds a year. This very building is said to have been the parlementhouse of the little kings of the palatinate. It savors of antiquity in the architecture; and within are a number of seats described by Gothic arches and neat pillars; at the upper end are two; one for the earl, the other for the abbot. The eight others were allotted to his eight barons, [and occupy one side of the room.
UNDER the vice-chamberlain is a baron, who holds a weekly court, in which appearances are entered for bringing causes to a trial. Writs and subpoenas are also here made out, as well for the great sessions for this county, as for those of the county of
Flint.
Here is, besides, an examiner; and a seal-keeper, who has the charge of the records.
THE judges have lodgings within the castle, during their circuit, by antient custom. These are furnished by the sheriffs of the city. The sheriffs of the county take care of their horses; but are allowed the expences when they bring in their accounts at the audit.
THE county jail for felons and debtors is the last place to be described.
JAIL
I can do little more than confirm the account of it by the humane
Howard.
Their day-confinement is in a little yard, surrounded on all sides by lofty buildings, impervious to the air, excepting from above, and ever unvisited by the purifying rays of the sun. Their nocturnal apartments are in cells seven feet and a half by three and a half; ranged on one side of a subterraneous dungeon; in each of which are often lodged three or four persons. The whole is rendered more (wholesomely) horrible, by being pitched over three or four times in the year. The scanty air of their streight prison-yard is to travel through three passages to arrive at them: through the window of an adjacent room; through a grate in the floor of the said room into the dungeon; and finally, through the dungeon, through a little grate above the door of each of their kennels. In such places as these are the innocent and the guilty permitted to be lodged, till the law decides their fate. I am sure the humane keeper, Mr.
Thomas,
must feel many a pang at the necessary discharge of his duty. Mr. HOWARD compares the place to the black-hole at
Calcutta.
The view I had of it, assisted to raise the idea of a much worse prison where
No light, but rather darkness visible,
Served only to discover sights of woe.
The constable of the castle holds his place for life; is properly the keeper of the prison; but appoints a deputy. He is accountable for all prisoners and debtors, and answerable for their escapes.
WITHIN the walls of this fortress, was an instance of a felon suffering
prison forte et dure,
for standing mute on his trial, till he died of hunger.
PRISON FORTE IT DURE.
One
Adam,
son of
John,
of the
Woodhouses,
was, in 1310, the 4th of
Edward
II. committed for burning his own houses, and carrying away the goods. He stood mute; a jury, as usual, was empanelled, who decided, that he could speak if he pleased. On this he was committed
ad dietam;
and afterwards
John le Morgan,
constable of the castle, testified, that the aforesaid
Adam
was dead
ad dietam
Harleian
MSS, No 2079. 63.
. This was the origin of the punishment of pressing to death, or the
peine forte et dure,
which seems a sort of merciful hastening of death; for it must have been much more horrible, as well as tedious, in the manner prescribed by the law of the first
Edward,
in whose reign it originated. The words of the statute are,
Qe les felouns ecriez et que sont apertement de male fame, et ne se voillent mettre en enqueste des felonies qe lem lui mette devant justices a la suite le Roy,
soient mys en la prison fort et dure,
&c.
THE term
ad dietam
was ironical, expressive of the sad sustenance the sufferer was allowed;
viz.
on the first day, three morsels of the worst bread; on the second, three draughts of water out of the next puddle: and this was to be alternately his daily diet till he died.
MR. RYMER records a strange instance of a woman at
Nottingham,
who underwent this punishment, and lived forty days without meat or drink. This happened in 1357, in the reign of
Edward
III. who,
ad laudem Dei et gloriosae virginis MARLAe matris suae, unde dictum miraculum processit,
at creditur
The woman's name was
Caecilia,
indicted for the murder of her husband,
John de Rygeway, Rymer
's Foedera, vi. 13.
,
granted the sufferer a free pardon. After mentioning, that it is probable that the miracle was a little assisted by natural means, I must observe, that, according to this instance, the condemned were, in some cases, absolutely denied any species of food; in others, it seems probable, from the name of the punishment of
Adam,
that they sometimes were allowed that wretched diet which was continued when the punishment changed into the
peine dure et forte.
THERE is a singularity in the manner of the treatment of the prisoners who are released by capital punishment out of their dreadful cells, which merits mention. They are delivered by the constable or his deputy, at a stone called
Glover's-stone,
about ninety yards distant from the outward gate, into the hands of the sheriffs of the city; who receive them at that stone, which is the extreme limit of the castle precincts, and from thence convey them to the place of execution, which they also have the charge of. This custom is not accounted for, any more than by tradition, that a felon was formerly rescued in his way to the gallows by the citizens of
Chester,
and perhaps by the connivance of the magistrates, who are supposed to have had the disagreeable duty inflicted on them of executing all criminals, whether they are of the county or the city.
THE city was separated from the castle, and made a county of itself, by the charter of
Henry
VII: the castle was left as an appertance to the shire; and has the small outlet of a little street called
Glover's-stone,
GLOVER'S STONE.
which is also independent of the city; and in which non-freemen may set up any trade unmolested by the corporation.
THE castle has a governor, lieutenant-governor, and constable; and is garrisoned by two companies of invalids.
THE civil government and architecture is next to be taken notice of. I have, in my account of
Saxon
and
Norman
CHESTER, given a brief relation of the government of the city in those periods. I shall at present only mention the principal charters; and flatter myself, that the reader will excuse my brevity, not only as it is beyond the power of the travelling topographer to collect the same materials as the resident; but because his curiosity will, it is to be hoped, soon be satisfied by the publication of the history of this city by the Reverend Doctor GOWER, which will amply supply all my deficiencies.
THE first royal charter which this city was honored with is that of
Henry
III;
CHARTERS.
who confirms all the priveleges bestowed on them by the
Norman
earls, and, I imagine, first flung the government into the form of a regular corporation; for he grants and confirms to them, that none shall buy or sell merchandise in the city except citizens, unless it be in the fairs, under the penalty of ten pounds.
EDWARD I. gave the city of
Chester,
with the appertenances, and all the liberties and priveleges, to its citizens and their heirs, to be holden of him and his heirs for ever, paying annually 100
l;
he also granted them the election of a coroner, and pleas of the crown; and that they should have sock
Sock, he who is invested with this, has power to hold courts within his own lands. SACK, power of deciding complaints and quarrels, and applying to his own use the fines resulting from such decisions within his own territory. TOLL, needs no explanation. THEME, the right to dispose of all his bondsmen, their children, and goods. INEANGTHEFE, the power of apprehending, in his own lands, thieves, whether they be his own people or those of another lord. OUTFANGTHEFE, is the power of seizing, in any person's land, a vassal of his own, who has committed a robbery within his jurisdiction, and bringing him to trial to his own court.
Vide
Skene, de verb, signific. and
So
n
r
's Gloss.
, sack, toll, theme, infangthefe, outfangthefe, and freedom throughout all the land and dominion, of toll, passage,
&c.
EDWARD III. confirmed the past grants, and added another, of all the vacant lands within the liberty of the city, with leave for the citizens to build on such vacant spots.
EDWARD the black prince prescribed by particular names the boundaries of the city, beginning at the
Iron-bridge,
and from thence to
Saltney,
the
Port-pool, Flukersbrook, Boughton,
&c.
RICHARD II. was particularly kind to his favorite city. In consideration of some distresses it had undergone, he released them from the payment of seventy-three pounds ten shillings and eight-pence arrears of rent due to the crown: he gave them the profits of the ferry towards the re-building and repairing of
Dee
bridge: he made them two grants of the murage, the first for four years, the second for five, for the repairs of the walls. But in the 22d year of his reign,
for the furtherance of justice in the same city, and better execution thereof, he grants unto his subjects, majors, sheriffs, and commonalty of the said city, to hold their courts; and limited what processes they might award in, actions, personal felonies, appeals, processes of utlagary, as at common law. Granted under the seal of the principality of
Chester,
at
Chester, May
2, 1398
King, ii. 159
.
This seems to have been found necessary, in order to strengthen the civil policy of this place, which had four years before been greatly insulted by a dreadful riot in the abby by Sir
Baldwyne
of
Radyngstone,
supported by Sir
John
of
Stanley
with eight hundred men. A sheriff was killed, and many other excesses committed
Harleian
MSS. No 2057. 34.
.
AFTER the revolution which happened in 1399, the mayor and citizens continued to favor the cause of their deposed master; and after his death, gave all the assistance in their power to
Harry Percy.
On his defeat, they obtained the royal pardon; and in order to conciliate their affections, young
Henry
prince of
Wales,
and earl of
Chester,
confirmed all their former charters and priveleges; and afterwards granted to them the profits of murage and bridge tower, where tolls were collected,
durante bene placito.
IN a confirmation of the former charters by
Henry
VI. we learn the former concourse of strangers; the greatness of the commerce of
Chester,
by reason of the goodness of its port; and the great trade carried on in provisions into and out of
Wales.
It farther recites the melancholy change of affairs; the conflux of foreign merchants being put a stop to by the choaking of the creek with sands; and the intercourse with
Wales
destroyed, since the insurrection of
Owen Glendwr:
which considerations moved the king to remit ten pounds of the antient fee-farm rent.
THE provisions alluded to were probably cheeses, on the part of the citizens of
Chester;
and perhaps wines, spices, and other foreign luxuries; for which they might receive in exchange from the
Welsh,
cattle of different kinds.
HENRY VII.
MEMBERS.
in 1506, in consideration of farther distresses of the city, not only remitted eighty pounds of its annual rent; but granted it a new charter, by which he separated it from the county, and granted it several of the most valuable priveleges which it still enjoys: but being a county palatine, and in the time of
Edward
I. vested in the crown, never received summons, either for county or city, to return members to parlement, till the reign of
Henry
VIII. when the county, in 1543, was empowered to send two knights, and the city two citizens. The electors of the last are the freemen of the city; the returning-officers the sheriffs.
THE corporation consists of a mayor,
CORPORATION.
recorder, two sheriff s, twenty-four aldermen, and forty common-council. Here are beside two annual officers, called
leave-lookers,
whose business was to prevent all persons who are not free of the city from exercising any trade, or exposing to sale any wares or merchandise within the liberties. They were accustomed to go round the city in order to preserve these its privileges; and sometimes were used to take small sums, called
leave-lookerage,
for
leave
for non-freemen to sell wares by retail; but at present the yeoman of the Pentise discharges this office, and returns the names of such persons who are found to offend, in order that actions might be brought against them. We find, as early as 1297, that similar officers were elected, under the name of
custos guild mercator;
and who discharged the same function
King, ii. 167.
.
THE places where the mayor and other officers of the corporation assemble for the dispatch of business,
PEXTISE.
or administration of justice, are two; the first is the Pentise, an antient building in the center of the city, near the junction of the four principal streets. Mention is made of the north-side having been builded in 1497. Here all business within the cognizance of a justice of the peace is transacted; the aldermen that have past the chair being empowered to act as long as they wear the gown. Here also the sheriffs, assisted by the recorder, sit and determine civil causes.
I IMAGINE that this building,
PRAETORIUM.
St.
Peter
's church, and a few houses to the north and west, occupy the site of the
Roman Praetorium;
for they not only fill the very situation of that part of the old castrametations, but account for the discontinuance of the
Bridge street,
which ceases opposite to these edifices. This also is the cause why the nearer part of the
North-gate street
is thrown out of its course, and falls into the
East-gate street,
many yards beyond the mouth of the
Bridge street;
for the lower part of the
North-gate street,
where the exchange and shambles stand. points directly towards the former; but is interrupted by the space occupied by these buildings. The limit of the
Praetorium
on the east, was the narrow portion of
North-gate street;
on the south, part of the present
Bridge, East-gate,
and
Water-gate streets;
on the west
Goss lane;
and on the north, the space now occupied by the fish-market. The
praetorium,
with its attendants, demanded no small space; for, besides the spot possessed by the general, were the apartments of the
imperatoris contubernales,
or the young nobility immediately under his care; the
augurale,
where prayers, sacrifices, and other religious rites were performed, which might have stood on the site of the modern church; and the general might have had his tribunal on the very spot where the worshipful corporation at present sit for the redress of grievances.
THE courts of justice are held in the common hall,
EXCHANGE.
a large and commodious room over the exchange, adorned with the portraits of several popular persons: among them is a full-length of Sir
William Williams,
recorder of this city, speaker of the house of commons in the reign of
Charles
II. and solicitor-general in that of his successor. In this place are held a crown-mote court, portmote court, and court of sessions. The mayor, assisted by the recorder, is judge of the crownmote court. He has jurisdiction in all criminal causes, treason only excepted. He is also judge of the portmote court, with the same assistant. This court holds plea in all actions real, personal, and mixed. In the court of sessions, the aldermen above the chair try petty-larcenies, and determine upon inferior offences. In this place, the body corporate hold their assemblies for making bye-laws for the government of the city; for managing the public buildings and directing the charities; and finally, the city elections of magistrates, as well as members, are made in this court.
THE only remains of any
hotel,
and that of no antient date, stood in
Old Common-ball lane;
which, when entire, surrounded a square, and communicated with
Water-gate street.
It was founded by Sir
Thomas Egerton,
chamberlain of
Chester,
afterwards lord chancellor of
England,
and designed by him for a dwelling-house. The small remainder, which faced the lane, and was occupied by a poor family, on the 5th of
November
1772, was the scene of a dreadful calamity. The first floor was engaged by a puppet-show man; and at the moment he was exhibiting to a very full audience, by some unknown accident 800 pounds weight of gunpowder, which was lodged in a warehouse beneath, took fire, and blew up three stories. Twenty-three people perished, and eighty-three were much burnt, bruised, and received broken and dislocated limbs; of which number only three died, and those with locked jaws. The remedy found most efficacious for the burnt, was
Goulard
's extract of lead.
THE external effects of this explosion were these: the windows and broken glass of several of the neighboring houses fell outwards; from which it appears, that they were not broken by the shock of the gunpowder, but by the pressure of the air within the apartments, which rushed out into the
vacuum
occasioned by the explosion. A similar phaenomenon has been remarked from an explosion from the inflammable vapor of a mine, when the neighboring trees fell towards the blast. Howsoever, where the force of the powder was confined by narrow passages, its centrifugal effect took place; for two boys, walking along the rows in
Water-gate street,
opposite to a passage leading to the building, were blown, one against the rails, the other into the street; and the roof of a house was blown off, opposite a passage into
Common-hall lane.
IT is much to be wished, that the easy magistracy of this city would, from this dire accident, take into consideration the safety of the whole, in preference to the conveniency of a few lazy individuals; and either compel them to keep by them only the legal quantity, or at their session appoint proper places for lodging gunpowder. This is the second tremendous warning of the same nature which the city hath been visited with. On the first of
April
1726, the shop of Mr.
Thomas Murray
in
Bridge street,
and the house, were blown up; and himself and a young gentleman killed. Notwithstanding this double admonition, I fear its attention still continues lethargic.
THE surviving sufferers of this calamity were relieved
630
l.
was also immediately collected from the humane inhabitants of the city, to be distributed among these miserable maimed objects.
in the well-regulated infirmary established here, and supported by the voluntary contributions from the city, county, and neighboring parts of
Wales.
It is a handsome building, in an airy situation, and detached from the streets. This charity was founded in 1756, and originated from a bequest of 300
l.
left by Dr.
Stratford,
commissary of
Richmond,
towards the commencing of a public hospital in this city. Subscriptions were circulated, and a sum equal to the design soon raised. Before the present building could be ready for the reception of patients, a temporary infirmary was prepared for them, in 1756, in
Northgate street.
The new infirmary was opened on the 17th of
March
1761; and has been supported with a spirit that does honor to the environs; which has enabled the managers to receive, since its institution, not fewer than thirteen thousand six hundred and thirty-six objects of relief. The portrait of the founder is placed in the council-room of the infirmary; a three-quarters piece, sitting, in a long wig and civilian's gown.
I SHALL now take a short view of the ecclesiastical state of this antient city. It is necessary first to observe, that the
Mercian
kingdom was divided into five bishopricks;
Lichfield, Chester, Worcester, Lydnecester,
and
Dorchester;
which last was afterwards removed to
Lincoln. Lichfield
was made, about the year 785, metropolitan, by order of
Offa,
and afterwards, for a long space, incorporated into itself its suffragan,
Chester.
How greatly the last flourished is evident from an account of its annual payment to the pope in very early times; for, when
Lichfield
payed only three thousand florins, our see advanced five thousand. No wonder that its jealousy should be excited! Very little is known of the state of this church in the
Saxon
period. Let it suffice to say, that a bishop of
Lichfield,
of the name of
Peter,
in the year 1075, removed his episcopal seat to
Chester;
and during his life made use of the church of St.
John
's for his cathedral. This translation was of very short date; for his successor established himself in the former diocese, and
Chester
continued without a bishop till the dissolution of monasteries; when, in 1541,
Henry
VIII. restored it to its former honor, by creating it one of the six
Westminster, Oxford, Bristol, Gloster, Peterborough,
and
Chester.
The first was suppressed in the reign of queen
Mary.
new sees formed on that great event; and converted the church of the late abby of St.
Werburgh
into the cathedral.
THE first of the new bishops was
John Bird,
a
Carmelite,
and provincial of the order; a man subservient to the court; who, by preaching against the pope's supremacy, so recommended himself to the king as to obtain the bishoprick of
Bangor;
from whence he was removed to
Chester,
as a fit person to suit the rapacity of the times. In 1546, he granted away the whole of the manors and demesnes of the see, and, accepting impropriation instead of them, left his successors not a single acre, excepting that on which the palace stands, and the court before it; another house, adjacent; a little orchard called the
Woodyard;
two houses near St.
John
's church; and a few small tenements in the city of
York.
Notwithstanding the sum he amassed, he was found, at the accession of
Mary,
in debt to the crown 1087
l.
18
s.
for tenths and subsidies; a vast sum for the times! His interest with bishop
Bonner
still would have saved him, had he not committed (in those days) the heinous crime of matrimony, for which he was deprived in 1554.
HE left his diocese one of the lest in value, yet greatest: in extent, of any in
England;
for it reaches from
Hawarden
in
Flintshire,
to the river
Derwent
in
Cumberland:
comprehending the entire counties of
Cheshire
and
Lancashire;
part of
Westmoreland,
Cumberland,
and
Richmondshire
in
Yorkshire;
the chapelties of
Holt
and
Iscoed;
the churches of
Hawarden, Hanmer, Bangor, Worthenhury,
and the chapelry of
Orton Maddoc,
in the adjacent parts or
Wales.
THE abby,
ABBY.
out of which this see was formed, was of great antiquity. History relates, that it had been originally a nunnery, founded about the year 660, by
Wulpherus,
king of the
Mercians,
in favor of his daughter's indisposition to a married life. This was the celebrated St.
Werburgh,
who took the veil after living immaculate for three years with her husband
Ceolredus,
after the example of her aunt, the great
Ethelreda;
who cohabited for three years with no less purity with her first spouse
Tonberctus,
and for twelve with her second, the pious prince
Egfrid.
St.
Werburgh
presided over several
Mercian
monasteries, died at
Tricengham,
and by her own order was interred at
Heanburge;
but on the approach of the
Danes,
in 875, her body was conveyed to
Chester,
as a place of security from the insults of those pagans
Hiden
in
Gale, iii. 240.
.
IT is uncertain how long this community existed. It probably was ruined by the ravages of the barbarians in 895, and finally suppressed; for we are told
Ibid.
, that from the reign of king
Athelstan,
in 925, to the coming of the
Normans,
a set of canons secular were established in the place of the nuns. This pious deed was that of
Ethelsleda;
who restored the buildings; which afterwards were repaired by earl
Leofric,
husband to the famous
Godiva.
The house was richly endowed by the kings
Edmund
and
Edgar,
and by
Leofric. Edgar
's charter begins in a strain equally pious and sublime
Dugdale,
Monast. i. 200.
.
ON the accession of
Hugh Lupus
to this earldom, he suppressed the canons secular, and established in their place a colony of his countrymen,
Benedictines,
from
Bec
in
Normandy;
for probably he did not care to trust his salvation to the prayers of the
Saxon
religious. It is said, that this piece of piety was owing to a fit of illness which the earl was seized with; when he took the usual way in those days of soothing a troubled conscience.
Anselm,
abbot of
Bec,
and afterwards archbishop of
Canterbury,
regulated the new foundation; and appointed his chaplain
Richard
to be the first abbot.
Lupus
and his successors were very liberal in their endowments
Idem, 985,
&c.
; and the place flourished till its dissolution; which was effected by the surrender of the last abbot,
Thomas Clerk;
who received in reward the office of the new deanry, which he enjoyed only six weeks. The revenues of this great abby were, according to
Dugdale,
1003
l.
5
s.
II
d.
to Speed, 1073
l.
17
s.
7
d.
ACCORDING to a survey of this abby, preserved in the
Harleian
collection, its extent was very considerable; surrounding the present square, and covering several parts of the adjacent ground. The old abby-court is adorned on two sides by very handsome modern houses, built between the years 1750 and 1754, on leases granted by the dean and chapter. Another side is filled by the new palace; an elegant pile, which rose under the auspices of that munificent and hospitable prelate
Edmund
Keen,
present bishop of
Ely.
Its place was before occupied by the house of the antient abbots.
THE old gate is yet standing: is a plain but noble entrance; and consists, towards the street, of two Gothic arches included within a round one, of great diameter; and which appears
to
have been of far older date. One side was the porter's lodge; on the other, a place called St.
Thomas
's court. A chapel, dedicated to the same saint, stood where the present deanry is; and, from its antient appearance, seems to have been externally the same building.
THE cloisters are entire; but consist only of three walks, the court extending on one side quite to the church. By the different arms on the roof, it appears to have been repaired at several times, from the time of
Edward
III. to that of
W
sey
whose arms, with those of the see of
York,
with the cardinal's cap, are also to be seen here.
ON one side stood the fratry;
SCHOOL
a vast room, which is used as a free-school, founded by
Henry
VIII. in the 36th year of his reign, for twenty-four boys, who are appointed by the dean and chapter: they may continue there four years, if their conduct be regular; but the dean has power to grant a year of grace. No boy (unless he be a choirister) ought to be chosen before he is nine years old, or after he is fifteen. Two masters are appointed for their instruction, a chief and an under master; elected by the dean and chapter.
IN a corner of the east-side of the cloister, is a passage and stairs to the dormitory; and the antient priests cellars and kitchen. On the same side is a passage, formerly called the Maidens aile,
which leads to the little abby-court, a part of the antient building belonging to the prebends.
THE beautiful edifice,
CHAPTER-HOUSE.
the chapter-house, stands in the same walk, of the cloister. The vestibule is arched, supported by four columns, each surrounded with eight slender pilasters without capitals, which converge near the top of the column, and spread over the roof. The dimensions of this room are thirty-three feet four inches, by twenty-seven four; the height twelve feet nine. On the sides is a stone-feat for the attendants on the business of the chapter.
THE chapter-house is fifty feet long, twenty-six feet broad, end thirty-five feet high; at the upper end is a window, consisting of five lancet-shaped divisions; and on each side is another of three. At the height of eight feet and a half from the floor, a narrow gallery runs along three parts of the room, divided from the windows by a triplet of most elegant, lofty, slender pillars. The roof is of stone; the springs of the arches which secure it, are supported by neat pilasters with palmy capitals.
THE modern book-cases deform the lower parts of the room, as high as the bottoms of the windows. The walls, 1 conjecture, had been ornamented with pilasters, and had a stone-seat like that of the vestibule. The entrance, both from the cloisters and between the vestibule and the chapter-house, are Gothic; but apparently of a later species of architecture than either of those rooms.
THE chapter-house was built, in all probability, in the time of
Rendle the first,
earl of
Chesler,
who died in 1128, after enjoying his earldom eight years. The great earl,
Hugh Lupus
uncle to
Randle,
had been interred in the church-yard of the abby: the first care of the nephew was to remove the body into this building
Leicester's Hist.
Antiq. 127.
, as the most honorable place; a respect which would certainly have been payed to it, had this edifice existed at the time of his death. Here his remains continued unmolested till the year 1724, when, in digging within the chapter-house, they were found in a stone coffin, wrapped in leather, with a cross on the breast; and at the head of the coffin a stone in shape of a T, with the wolf's head, the allusion to his name, engraven on it. Other coffins were discovered beneath the two rooms, of earls, their countesses, or of abbots; but the great leveller death had reduced them to dust indistinguishable.
THE earls who were interred here, were
Hugh,
who died in 1101;
Randle the first,
or
de Meschina,
in 1128;
Randle the second,
or
de Gernouns,
who was poisoned in 1155, by
William Peverel; Hugh Cyvelioc,
who died at
Leek
in 1181;
Randle the third,
or
de Blundeville,
who died at
Wallingford
in 1232, where his bowels were interred; his heart was buried at the abby of
Dieulacres
in
Staffordshire,
and his body transported to
Chester:
finally,
John Scot,
who, in 1237, underwent the same fate as
Randle the second.
So that every earl of the
Norman
line were deposited here, excepting
Richard,
who perished by shipwreck; in 1120
The particulars of the deaths of this illustriou. line may be seen is LEICESTER: or in DUGDALE'S
Baronage,
i. 32, &c.
.
OF the abbots,
Geofry,
who died in 1208, and six others, were buried in the chapter-house or its vestibule
Willis
's Cathedrals, i. 323.
.
THE church bounds the north side of the cloisters. The lower part of the wall has a row of arches, now filled up, and savors more of antiquity than any other part, This, and a portion of the north-transepts, are the oldest parts of the present building; but there is no part left at present that can boast of a remote date. All the labors of the
Saxons,
and almost all of those of its re-founder
Hugh Lupus,
are now lost. The abbot,
Simon Ripley,
who was elected in 1485, finished the middle aile and the tower. The body is supported by six sharp-pointed arches. The columns are thick, surrounded by pilasters with small rounded capitals. Above is a gallery, with a neat stone balustrade in the parts where it is entire, and a row of large and broad, pointed windows; which is the general style.
THE present cathedral appears to have been built (excepting the slight fragments just mentioned) in the reigns of
Henry
VI. VII. and VIII; but principally in that of the two last. The beautiful west-end was begun in 1508, and the first stone laid with much ceremony. The window over the door is filled with beautiful tracery; and the door-case enriched with figures and other sculpture. The descent into the church is down a multitude of steps; so there is reason to suspect, that the present was on the foundation of the antient church; which had been on a level with the old streets, which we know are many feet higher than they were originally, by the accession of rubbish, and other adventitious matter.
THE center beneath the great tower is greatly injured by a modern bell-loft, which conceals a crown-work of stone, that would have a good effect was the loft destroyed.
FROM the springs of arches that appear in the walls of the n
e and its ailes, it appears as if the architect had intended to have vaulted them, in the manner in which St.
Mary
's chapel and the choiral ailes are done.
THE choir is very neat; and the Gothic tabernacle-work over the stalls carved in a light and elegant manner. The arches in the galleries are divided by pretty slender pillars; and perhaps were of a date prior to the body of the church; probably the work of abbot
Oldham,
who was a benefactor, and had a concern in the building.
IN the chancel are four stone-stalls for the officiating priests; with carved Gothic work above; a recess or two for the preserving either the reliques or the sacred utensils. About the walls are dispersed the monuments of several bishops and churchmen; but none of any magnificence; and one of Sir
William Manwaring,
a gallant young man, who sell in the defence of the city during its long siege.
THE bishop's throne stands on a stone base, as remarkable for its sculpture as its original use. Its form is an oblong square; and each side most richly ornamented with Gothic carving, arches, and pinnacles. Around the upper part is a range of little images, designed to represent the kings and saints of the
Mercian
kingdom. Each held in one hand a scroll with the name inscribed. Fanatic ignorance mutilated many of the labels, as well as the figures; but the last were restored about the year 1748; but the workman, by an unlucky mistake, has placed female heads on male shoulders, and given manly faces to the bodies of the fair-sex. At first, there were thirty-four figures: four are lost; the remainder are faithfully described, and the history of each monarch and saint accurately given, in a little pamphlet, published in 1749, by the worthy Doctor
William Cooper,
who dedicated the profits for the use of the bluecoat hospital in this city. I beg leave to dissent from the notion of this having been the shrine of St.
Werbugh,
ST. WERBURCH'S SHRINE
as it is popularly called. It certainly was nothing more than the pedestal on which the real shrine, or, as the
French
call it,
la chasse,
stood, which contained the sacred reliques. These are made of gold, silver, vermeil,
i. e,
silver gilt, or some precious materials, and often enriched with gems of great value. They are of different forms, such as churches, cabinets,
&c.
and, should the relique be a head, or limb, the
chasse
is made conformable to the shape of the part. These are seated usually conspicuous on an elevated place; and are always moveable, in order that they may be carried in procession, either in honor of the saint, or to divert some great calamity. Thus, in 1180, the shrine of St.
Werburgh
was brought out to stop the rage of a fire in the city, which for a long time was invincible by every other means; but the approach of the holy remains instantly proved their sanctity, by putting an end to its furious desolation.
BEFORE I take leave of this part of the church,
ASSASSINATION.
I must mention an impious outrage committed at the high altar in 1492, by a gentleman of
Wales,
who wounded almost to death one
Patrick Filling,
I suppose the officiating priest. The church, as usual, was immediately suspended, till a lustration in order to purify it from the foul stain was performed. The abby was reconciled on St.
Werburgh
's day; the parish-church on that of St.
Oswald
King, ii. 189.
.
AN impiety of this kind was committed in the church of
Notre Dame
at
Paris,
in 1670
Felibica Hist. Paris, ii, 1500. Pieces Justif. iii. 212.
. The priest died of his wound; and expiation was made by order of the archbishop: public prayers were offered up for forty hours in all the churches; processions made; a fast of three days appointed. The whole terminated by a general (
reparation
) satisfaction of the injury by a grand procession, in which the whole parlement assisted. The streets were covered with tapestry, and the avenues barred up with the chains to keep off the mob; and thus the place was restored to the discharge of the sacred offices.
IT is with a kind of horror I read in the zealous
Fox,
of an outrage of this sort committed in our own kingdom, in the reign of queen
Mary
Martyrs., iii.
. The enthusiast was taken, and punished by the striking off the criminal hand, and by being burnt: yet the historian gives him a place among the more well-meaning sufferers of that barbarous period.
BEHIND the choir is St.
Mary
's chapel; and on each side is an aile. The monuments in these parts are in no wise remarkable. In its north-aile is a tomb with a flowery cross, that of an abbot; and another of an altar-form, ascribed to
Henry
IV. emperor of
Germany,
who, according to a legendary tale, was said to have escaped from his troubles, and to have resided in
Godstall lane,
in this city; to have died there; and to have been interred in the abby. It is very uncertain whether this great but cal
mitous prince was ever in our kingdom; but it is very certain be finished his days at
Liege
Modern Univ, Hist, xxxix. 95.
, in 1106, and was magnificently interred in the cathedral of that city.
The transepts are of unequal lengths. The north is very large. dedicated to St.
Oswald,
and is the parish-church of that name. This is said to have stood on the first church of St.
Peter
and St.
Paul;
which was afterwards changed to that of the
Holy Trinity,
and finally, to the name it now bears. On the rebuilding of the church, this aile was designedly enlarged, and allotted by the monks to the neighboring inhabitants, who were for the most part their servants or tenants. At first, the religious wished to have the whole to themselves, and on that account built, at a distance from this aile, a chapel called St.
Nicholas
's, and endowed it with a vicarage, for the use of the laity; but afterwards, at the request. of the inhabitants, and by composition between the mayor and abbot, about the year 1488, they were restored to the use of the church of St.
Oswald,
which they still retain
King,
ii. 39. 196.
.
THE chapel falling into disuse, was purchased by the citizens, and converted into their common-hall for dispatch of business
It is probable that there had been a more antient common-hall; a lane in this city still retains the name of
Old Common-hall lane.
. In later times, since the building of the exchange, it has been converted into a magazine for wool; into a carrier's warehouse; and part into a theatre, acting under parlementary license.
THIS abby afforded only a temporary sanctuary to the proshgate. The privelege which
Hugh Lupus
granted is particular: he ordered, that no thief or other malefactor, that attended the fair held at the feast of St.
Werburgh,
should be attached, unless he committed some new offence there
Leicester,
119.
. This, says
King,
drew a vast: concourse of loose people together at that season, and proved of singular advantage to
Randle the third,
earl of
Chester;
who, in being surrounded in the castle of
Rudland
by a numerous army of
Welsh,
and in great danger, sent for relief to his general,
Roger Lacy,
at that time attending the midsummer-fair.
Lacy
instantly collected a body of minstrels, fiddlers, and idle people, who were assembled here on account of this privelege; marched with them into
Wales,
and relieved the earl from his distress.
Randle,
on his return, immediately rewarded
Lacy
with a full power over all the instruments of his preservation,
megisterium omnium lecatorum et meretricam totius
CESTRESHIRE. By this grant he was empowered to require the attendance of all the minstrels and musicians of the county on the anniversary of the exploit. They were to play before him and his heirs for ever, in a procession to the church of St.
John;
and, after divine service, to the place where he kept his court. The minstrels were there examined concerning their lives and conversation; whether any of them played without annual licence from their lord, or whether they had heard any words among their fellows tending to his dishonor. These priveleges were afterwards devolved by
John,
son of
Roger de Lacy,
to
Hugh de Dutton
and his heirs. The procession and courts were held by their steward within my memory; but the custom is now dropt. I find also, that
Dutton
and his heirs clamed at the feast from the minstrels,
quatuor lagenas vini et unam lancem,
four bottles of wine, and one lance; and at the same time a fee of four pence halfpenny: and from every
Meretrix
in
Cheshire,
and in the city of
Chester, officium suum exercente,
four pence
Leicester,
142
.
THE other religious houses in this city were,
CARMELITES.
the
Carmelites,
or
White friers,
who had a convent in that part of St.
Martin
's parish still called
White-friers lane:
part of Mr.
Marsden
's house is formed of the remains. The church, as appears by
Braun
's view of this city in 1581, stood a little west of it.
BY the charter of
Roger Lacy
to the abby of
Norton,
it appears, that there was a monastery in the parish of St.
Michael
Dugdale Monast
ii. 185.
which he grants to the canons of the former. We are left ignorant of the order it was of.
IN
Trinity
parish stood a house of
Franciscan
or
Grey friers,
which bishop
Tanner
conjectures might have been as antient as the time of
Henry
III. The site was granted to one
John Cokke.
I imagine that this stood in the
Yatch field,
near the place occupied by the new linnen-hall. By
Speed
's plan of
Chester,
it appears that there was a church there in his time; and to this day painted tiles and painted glass, reliques of ecclesiastical sinery, are still dug up.
IN the parish of St.
Martin
's
Rather is that of
Trinity;
9
s.
2 ½
d.
is paid at the audit for the site of it.
was a monastery of preaching or
Black friers,
said by
Speed
to have been founded by a bishop of
Chester,
meaning (as
Tanner
observes) of
Lichfield.
This, as well as the other religious house in this parish, was granted to the same
John Cokke.
Part of this house, and its fine vaults, are occupied by
Hanry Hesketh
esquire.
ST. JOHN'S,
ST. JOHN'S.
which lies without the walls on the east-side of the city, was once a collegiate church, reputed to have been founded by king
Ethelred
in 689, on being admonished by a vision to build it on the spot where he should find a white hind. After the ruin of the city by the
Danes,
the church was restored by his namesake, earl of
Mercia,
in 906; and was in the next century repaired and endowed by earl
Leofric.
A monastery was also founded here; for historians record, that king
Edgar
was rowed from his palace to the monastery of St.
John.
The Doomsday book also mentions the monastery of St.
Mary,
near the same church. This, besides, was the cathedral during the short time the see was removed from
Lichfield
by bishop
Peter.
In an old plan of it appears a house called the bishop's.
AT the dissolution, here was found a dean and seven prebendaries or canons (in the collation of the bishop of
Lichfield
); seven vicars, two clerks, four choiristers, sextons, and other servants; most of whose houses are distinguished in the same plan. Their yearly revenue, after reprisals, was only 27
l.
17
s.
4
d.
The site of the college, and some part of the buildings, were granted by queen
Elizabeth
to
John Fortescue
Tanner,
59.
.
ON the east-side of the church-yard stood the chapel of St.
Anne,
belonging to the brethren and sisters of the fraternity of St.
Anne
Harleian
MSS. No 1994. 69.
. This in later days was called
Cholmondly
hall; but is now totally demolished.
ST. JOHN'S, when entire, was a magnificent pile. The tower once stood in the center; but falling down in 1574, was never rebuilt. The chancel was probably demolished at the same time; but at that end are some fine arches, and other remains of antient chapels. Withinside are curious specimens of the clumsy strength of
Saxon
architecture, in the massy columns and round arches which support the body. The tower is now placed at the west-end; and has on one side the legend, represented by the figure of a man and a hind.
ON the south-side of the church-yard, impending over a high cliff, supposed to be the
Radeclive
of the Doomsday book, is a small antient building, probably a chapel, called the
Anchoritage,
placed over the retreat of some holy hermits. This might have been their place of sepulture; for in the live rock were found two bodies deposited in coffin-shaped cavities. This might have been the place, where legend says that
Harold,
the last
Saxon
king, ended his days; for it was long believed by the
English,
that he escaped from the battle of
Hastings,
and finished his life in retirement.
DOCTOR TANNER supposes, that the convent of
Benedictine
nuns, dedicated to St.
Mary,
originated either from the monastery of St.
John,
or was a relique of one of the old nunneries belonging to St.
Werburgh.
This, perhaps, may have been the case; for, from a charter preserved by
Dugdale,
it appears, that
Ranale the second,
earl of
Chester,
had obtained
for the nuns of
Chester, certain crofts from
Hugh Fitzoliver,
for them to build a church and convent on; which implies that there had been nuns in the city previous to his grant
Sciatis me dedisse, et in perpetuam elemosynam concepisse D
o et sanctae
Mariae
et MONIALIBUS
Cestriae,
&c.
Monasticon,
i. 507.
. I find also, that
Edward
the black prince had been a benefactor; for there is mention of a charter of his to the nuns, granted in the 32d of his father's reign
Herleian
MSS. No 2057. 36.
. This was suppressed (with the other religious houses) in 1537. At that time
Elizabeth Grosvenour
was prioress, who made a surrender of the house, and had a pension for life of twenty pounds; and eleven of the sisters had also pensions, from 4
l.
to 1
l.
6
s.
8
d.
each. The site was granted, in the 33d of
Henry
VIII. to the
Urian Breretons,
senior and junior. The revenues were, according to
Dugdale,
66
l.
18.
s.
4
d.;
to
Speed
99
l.
16
s.
2
d.
I have a ground-plot of this nunnery; by which it appears to have been a compact but small building. The church was twenty-two yards long and fifteen broad; and supported in the middle by a row of pillars. The chapel was nine yards by four three-quarters; the cloisters thirty yards by twenty-one. It stood in the nursery-garden on the west-side of the city, still called the
Nun's garden;
where vestiges of the walls and arches are yet remaining.
WITHOUT the
North-gate
stood a hospital dedicated to St.
John the Baptist,
and formerly a sanctuary, and endowed with great priveleges. The mastership was granted by
Edward
II. to the prior of
Berkinhead
and his successors; but afterwards disposed of by the crown to secular clergy. The house, at the dissolution, consisted of a chaplain and six poor brethren, whose income, after reprisals, was 13
l.
7
s.
10
d
Tanner,
64.
. Mention is made by bishop
Tanner
65.
of the liberties of the hospital of St.
Giles
being confirmed by
Edward
III. I am told, that a fragment, supposed to be part of this charity, is to be seen in the
Forest street.
THE last antient hospital was instituted for lepers, in the suburbs of
Boughton,
about the beginning of
Edward
II.'s reign; I think, opposite to the place of excution: the burying-ground is still made use of by the parish of St.
Oswald.
THE number of parishes are nine. None of the churches are remarkable, excepting those of St.
Peter
's and
Trinity;
which are distinguished by their handsome spires. The first was finished in 1489; when the parson and others signalized themselves by eating part of a goose on it, and flinging the rest into the four streets
King,
i. 76.
.
THE number of inhabitants, including the suburbs of
Boughton
and
Hanbridge,
are estimated to be fourteen thousand seven hundred and thirteen. The houses are almost entirely situated in a dry sand-stone rock. Whether it be owing to that, the clearness of the air, and the purity of the water, it is certain that the proportion of death among the inhabitants is only as one to thirty-one: whereas I am informed, by my worthy friend Doctor
Haggarth
of this city, that in
Leeds,
one in twenty-one; in
Northampton
and
Shrewsbury,
one in twenty-six; and in
London,
one in twenty and three-fourths, annually pay the great tribute of nature.
I DO not recollect any thing remarkable on the outside of the walls which has been unnoticed, unless it be the
Rood-eye,
and the adjacent places. The
Dee,
after quitting the contracted pass at the bridge, flows beneath an incurvated clayey cliff; and washes on the right a fine and extensive meadow, long since protected against its ravages by a lofty dike. I imagine, that it lay open to the tides till about the year 1587, when the corporation (to whom it belongs) demised to one
Thomas Lyneal,
servant to Sir
Francis Walsingham,
this pasture for the term of twenty-one years, together with as much land as he could gain to it from the sea. He was also to make at his own costs a quay for boats and barks to unload at full sea, near the water-gate; for which he was at first to have two pence for every vessel passing by with any lading; but after that, the sum was encreased to four pence: and
Lyneal
was to pay an annual rent of 20
l.
to the city. At first he met with some obstructions: Sir
Francis
therefore interfered, in order that his servant might proceed without further interruption
Harleian
MSS. No 2082. 31. 34.
.
THE name of this spot is taken from
eye,
its watery situation, and
rood,
the cross which stood there, whose base is still to be seen. On this place the lusty youth, in former days, exercised themselves in manly sports of the age; in archery, running, leaping, and wrestling; in mock-fights, and gallant and romantic triumphs. From the hints dropt by
Daniel King,
I imagine them to have been of the same nature with those practised by the young men of the metropolis, described by
Fitz-Stephen,
a writer cotemporary with
Henry
II.
The lay sons of the citizens rush out of the gates in shoals, furnished with lances and shields; the younger sort with javelins pointed, but disarmed of their steel; they ape the feats of war, and act the sham-fight. Part took the field well mounted. The generous coursers neigh and champ the bit. At length, when the course begins, and the youthful combatants are divided into classes or parties, one body retreats, and another pursues without being able to overtake them; while, in another quarter, the pursuers overtake the foe, unhorse them, and pass them many a length. The elders of the city and the fathers of the parties, and the rich and the wealthy, come into the field on horseback to behold the exercises
Vide
Fitz-Stephen
's Deser,
Lend,
translated by an Antiquary, 1772, 46, 7, 8.
. One would imagine, by what follows, the antient historian was describing the sports of
Ascanius
and his youthful train on the plains of
Sicily:
Postquam omnem laeti consessum, oculosque suoram
Lustravere in equis, &c.
Now round the ring, before their fathers, ride
The boys, in all their military pride;
Till the loud lash resounding from afar
Gave the glad signal of the mimic war;
Strait, in three bands distinct, they break away,
Divide in order, and their ranks display:
Swift at the summons they return, and throw
At once their hostile lances at the foe:
Then take a new excursion on the plain;
Round within round, an endless course maintain;
And now advance, and now retreat again;
With well-dissembled rage their rivals dare,
And please the crowd with images of war.
Alternate now they turn their backs in flight,
Now dart their lances, and renew the fight;
Then in a moment from the combat cease,
Rejoin their scatter'd bands, and move in peace.
PITT.
A STANDARD was the prize of emulation in the sports celebrated on the
Rood-eye
Which was won in 1578 by sheriff
Montford,
on
Shrove-Tuesday.
: but in the year 1609 the amusements took a new form; and under the reign of the peaceful
James,
the youthful cavaliers layed aside their mimic war, and began that species of horsemanship which the romantic philosopher, lord
Herbert,
thought unworthy of a man of honor; "for," says he, 'the exercise I do not approve, is the running of horses, there 'being much cheating in that kind.
THE first prizes we hear of, after the suppression of the triumph, were a bell and bowl, to be run for on St.
George
's day; which were provided in 1609 by Mr.
Robert Amery,
formerly sheriff of the city, and were brought down to the
Rood-eye
with great solemnity. This seems to have been the origin of the plate given by the city, and annually run for on the same day, to the present time. A bell was a common prize: a little golden bell was the reward of victory in 1607, at the races near
York;
whence came the proverb for success of any kind,
to bear the bell.
AT one end of the
Rood-eye
stands the
House of Industry;
POOR-HOUSE.
a large and useful building, founded in 1757, by money raised by the city on life-annuities, for several improvements within its liberties. Here the poor are provided for in a fit manner, and to the great ease of the parishes; who are relieved from the burden of a numerous poor, who were too idle to work, and too proud to enter into this comfortable
Asylum.
Those of the parish of
Hawarden
are also sent here, by virtue of an agreement made between the governors of this charity and the overseers of the poor of that parish. The inmates contribute, by some coarse linen manufactures, towards their support.
A LITTLE beyond this building are the quays,
QUAYS.
cranes, warehouses, and other requisites for carrying on the naval trade of this city. These are opposite to the
Water-gate,
and have been much improved of late years; and the intervening space has not long since been filled with a neat street. Ships of 350 tons burden
can
now reach the quays, where the spring-tides rise at a medium fifteen feet: the neap-tides, eight. In the year 1674, this port was in so deplorable a state, and so choaked with sands, that a vessel of twenty tons could not arrive here; but the ships were obliged to lie under
Neston,
ten miles distant; which gave rise to the assemblage of houses called
Parkgate,
built on the shore beneath that town. A quay, called the
New quay,
(now in ruins) was erected near this place in the beginning
Harleaan
MSS. No 2003. 39.
of the last century, for the conveniency of loading and unloading the vessels trading with
Chester;
and the goods were carried to and from the city by land. The misfortune of the port of
Chester
at length gave rise to the prosperity of
Leverpool,
about this time a very inconsiderable place. It now began to discover its own advantages of situation; and quickly emerged from its despicable state to its present flourishing condition.
IN 1674,
New Cut.
some friend to the former prevaled on Mr.
Andrew Yarranton,
a gentleman extremely conversant in the commercial advantages of this island, to make a survey of the river
Dee
and its estuary. He drew a plan, formed the project of a new channel, a scheme for recovering from the sea a large tract of land, and restoring the antient navigation even to the present quays: and this he got to be presented to the duke of
York,
the patron, at that time, of all useful undertakings. He also suggested the idea of a canal from the collieries at
Aston
near
Hawarden;
which was to drop into this new channel, and facilitate the carriage of coal up to the city
Mr.
Andrew Yarranton's England
's Improvements by sea and land, &c. to,
London,
1677. His plan for that of the
Dee,
is at p. 192.
. Future times had the advantage of his inventive genius. Both plans were brought into execution without any great deviation from Mr.
Yarranton
's project. His new cut was to end opposite to
Flint;
the present opens opposite to
Wepra,
on this side of
Flint.
Sir
John Glynne
's little canal approaches the
Dee,
about two miles below the city, Mr.
Yarranton
's coal canal was to fall into the
Dee
near to
Flint.
AN act of parlement was obtained for the recovering and preserving the navigation of the river, for settling the duties on ships, and for the establishing two ferries for the conveniency of travellers into the county of
Flint.
Other acts were passed in the years 1732, 1740, 43, 1752; and the works were begun with vigor. The project was carried on by subscription; and the adventurers were to be rewarded by the lands they were empowered to gain on both sides, from
the
white sands
or the sea from
Chester;
and between the county of
Cheshire,
on the north-side, and the county of
Flint
on the fouth-side; being sands, soil, and ground not bearing grass.
Party contests at first filled the subscriptions: zeal for the house of
Hanover
was at that time mixed, in this city, with zeal for its commercial interest; but in a little time it was discovered to be the
madness of many, but the gain of few.
The expences proved enormous; multitudes were obliged to sell out at above ninety
per cent.
loss; and, their shares being bought by persons of more wealth and foresight, at length the plan was brought to a considerable degree of utility; and a sine canal formed, guarded by vast banks, in which the river is consined for the space of ten miles; along which ships of three hundred and fifty tons burden may safely be brought up to the quays. Much land has been gained from the sea; and good farms now appear in places not long since possessed by the unruly element.
I REMEMBER an almost useless tide flowing about the water-tower, the antient channel of the
Dee
flowing under
Blacon
point; and the access to the county of
Flint,
on this side, open only at the recess of tides, and annually occasioning the loss of multitudes of lives. Two ferries are established at fit places. The lower is the proper passage for travellers by
Holyhead
into the kingdom of
Ireland;
and calls aloud for the aid of a turnpike, to render it at all times pervious; or the road may be continued to
Saltney,
along the flat, so as to fall into the other turnpike on the marsh.
I SHALL now take a short view of the trade of this city,
TRADE.
as it stood in the years 1771 and 1776. I bring the last into sight, in order to shew how far this port has been affected by the commotions of our
American
subjects; and oppose it to the commerce of 1771, when it appears to have been in its meridian, since the restoration of the channel. In that year were entered inwards
297 coasting-vessels; 19 of which were laden with groceries, and other goods from
London.
526 coast ships outwards; of these 23 came from the port of
London,
and were laden here with lead, iron cannon, two thousand tons of cheese, and other goods.
IN the same year, 95 vessels were entered inwards from foreign parts; and 216 entered inwards from
Ireland, Portugal, Spain, Italy,
and
America.
FROM
Norway
and the
Baltic,
are imported timber, flax, tallow, hemp, iron, and deals.
FROM
Leghorn,
large quantities of kid and lamb skins; which are manufactured by the glovers, after being dressed here. This, in fact, is the only manufacture which the city can boast of. I find, that in the reigns of queen
Elizabeth, James
I. and the beginning of that of
Charles
I. here was a vast trade in calves skins. In the first of those monopolizing times, the queen grants one
Arthur Balsano
a licence to export 6000 dickers of leather of calves skins, ten dozens to every dicker, for seven years, paying five shillings
per
dicker.
James
I. granted to
James Maxwel
Esq
a licence to export 18,000 dickers, for the same duty, and for twenty-one years; and this was afterwards confirmed to him by
Charles
I
Harleian
MSS. No 2004. 4, 5, 16.
. This
Maxwel
was one of the grooms of the bedchamber to his majesty; and in the preceding reign, by a piece of insolence to a gentleman of the inns of court, brought on him the resentment of the
English;
and was obliged to atone for it by making due submission. The first grant might be made to him by
James,
to make amends for the mortifications he had undergone.
FROM
Spain
and
Portugal
are imported great quantities of cork, fruit, oil of olives, nuts,
Barilla
ashes, and raisins; and several hundred tons of wine from
Portugal;
which last form the greatest foreign import of this city.
WHILE the trade with
America
was open, fish and oil were brought from
Newfoundland;
and a small trade was carried on with
Caroling.
THE exports this year were upwards of 6000 chaldrons of coal from the
Cheshire
and
Flintshire
collieries (which lie within this port); 1000 tons of lead; 300 of lead ore; 300 of oak bark; all these to foreign parts. Besides 3470 tons of lead, and 431 of lead ore, sent coastways; that is, to the ports of
London
and
Leverpool, vae! nimium vicina!
for the purpose of re-exportation.
IN 1776, 208 coasting-vessels were entered inwards, and 619 outwards.
166 ships entered inwards from foreign parts, including those trading between
Dublin
and
Parkgate;
and 131 outwards. The following table will shew the division of the commerce.
 
Inwards.
Outwards.
America,
2
5
France,
 
11
Flanders,
 
1
Holland,
 
1
Ireland,
140
104
Isle of Man,
3
4
Portugal,
3
3
Spain,
4
 
Italy,
3
1
Norway, Russia,
and
Prussia,
10
1
2877 chaldrons of coal, 1184 tons of lead, and 168 of lead ore, were sent abroad; but so exhausted are our oak-trees, that only 18 tons of bark were shipped. 2813 tons of lead, and 431 of lead ore, were sent coastways.
FROM the table of entries it appears, that the great trade of this city is with
Ireland;
which receives annnally from hence
a magazine) large quantities of hops, woollen cloths, worsted stuffs, hosiery, fustians,
Manchester
goods, cheese, wrought-iron, iron great guns, hardware, bound and unbound books, carpets, flint-glass, wrought silks, and great quantities of foreign goods sent from
London
by land, and shipped from this port.
IN return, it imports from
Ireland,
at the
Midsummer
and
Michaelmas
fairs, upwards of 1000 boxes and packs of linen cloth, containing 25,000 pieces at lest: besides 300 boxes or packs imported into
Leverpool,
and sent across the
Mersey
to
Ince,
from whence they are conveyed in carts to
Chester.
These form all together a million of yards each fair. This trade began no longer ago than the year 1736, in which 449, 654. yards were imported. The importations continually increased till the last year of the late war; from which period it has been on a par.
IRELAND also sends considerable quantities of lamb-skins, wool, linen and bay-yarn, tallow, hides, butter, feathers, and quills, ox bones and hoofs, glue, sheep and cat guts; calve-velves, provisions, and live cattle.
THE number of ships belonging to this port shew the uncommercial genius of its inhabitants; there being only twenty-two in the foreign trade, containing in all 1449 tons, and 169 men: and 13 in the coast-trade, whose tonnage is 680 tons, and number of men 58: yet the port extends, on the
Cheshire
side of the estuary, as far as the end of
Wiral;
and on the
Flintshire,
to the
Ver-rýd,
or the mouth of the
Clwyd.
THERE was lately a very fair prospect of adding much to the trade of the city, by an i
land navigation,
CANAL.
which was begun with great spirit a few years ago. It was to run through the county beneath
Beeston
castle, and to terminate near
Middlewich.
Another branch was to extend to
Namptwich.
One mouth opens into the
Dee,
below the water-tower. A fine bason is formed, into which the boats are to descend, by means of five successive locks, beneath the northern walls of the city, cut in the live rock. A few miles of this design are completed: but, by an unhappy miscalculation of expence, and by unforeseen difficulties occurring in the execution, such enormous charges were incurred, as to put a stop for the present to all proceedings. The other branch, which was to extend towards
Middlewich,
was to end within a limited distance from the great canal between the
Trent
and
Mersey
navigation. The great objects were the salt and cheese trade; and coal for the supply of the interior parts of
Cheshire,
from the vast collieries in
Staffordshire.
Share also in the exportation of hard-ware, earthen-ware, and all the manufactures of the internal part of the kingdom within its reach, might have been reasonably expected.
THE idea of a canal along the dead flat between
Chester
and
Ince
has been long since conceived, by persons very conversant in the nature of the trade of this city. One mouth might have opened into the
Dee
in the place of the present; another near
Ince,
which would create a ready intercourse with
Leverpool,
the
Weever,
and the salt-works and great dairies on that river; with
Warrington,
and with the flourishing town of
Manchester,
and a numerous set of places within reach of the
Mersey,
and of the canal belonging to that useful Peer, the duke of
Bridgewater,
to which the greatest of our inland navigations is connected. This little cut the city might, and still may, enjoy unenvied, unrivalled; and, what is a material consideration, the distance is trifling (seven miles
According to
Burdet
's map.
); the expences small, and the profits to the undertakers great.
ON leaving the city, I repassed
Hanbridge;
and at the may pole took the left-hand road, which is a continuation of the
Roman
road from the river. The strait direction is the only proof of its antiquity, till it falls into the fields on the left, where its tract is often distinguishable by certain ridges or elevated spots. The farmer also, in digging, often falls on adventitious matters; such as gravel, and remains of pavements. It points towards
Eccleston,
near which are the reliques of a mount; the site, perhaps, of a small castlet. It passes through
Eaton
park, and crosses the
Dee
at
Oldford.
THE village of
Eccleston
is prettily seated near the
Dee,
ECCLESTON.
and commands a view of the towers and spires of
Chester
rising above the wooded banks. The most extensive prospect is from a bench on
Eccleston
hill, on the road-side; which takes in the vast environs of
Wales, Cheshire,
and part of
Shropshire,
forming a n admirable composition of rich cultivation, bounded by hills of various forms.
ECCLESTON retains the same name which it had at the Conquest. It was held at that time by
Gilbert de Venables,
from
Hag
Lupus;
before that event, by
Edwin
a freeman. On the demesne land were two servants, four villeyns, and a boor, a boat and a net. Part of the place afterwards fell to the
Vernors
of
Kinderlen;
and finally, by a late purchase, was added by the family of the
Grosvenours
to their antient property in this parish. The church is a rectory dedicated to St.
Mary.
A LITTLE farther is
Eaton,
EATOS.
or the hamlet on the water; a name the most common of any in
England.
At the Conquest, here was a fishery, which employed six fishermen, and yielded a thousand salmon. This fishery has long since ceased; but during its existence, the minister of
Eccleston
clamed the twentieth fish. The seat of the antient family of the
Gresvenours
lies in this township; a brick house, built about the latter end of the last century. The
Gresvenours
came in with the Conqueror, and took their name from the office they held in the
Norman
court, that of grand huntsman. Their first settlement in this county was,
Over Lostock,
bestowed by
Hugh Lupus
on his great nephew
Robert le Gresvenour.
In 1234,
Richard le Grosvenour
purchased and fixed his seat at
Hulme:
but in the reign of
Henry
VI. by the marriage of
Rawlin
or
Ralph Gresvenour
with
Jean
daughter of
John Eaton
of
Eaton,
Esq
it was transferred to this place While chivalry was the passion of the times, few families shon in so distinguished a manner: none shewed equal spirit in vindicating their right to their honors. Witness the famous cause between Sir
Robert le Gresvenour
with Sir
Richard le Scrope,
plaintiff, about a coat of arms,
one land, or;
tried before the high constable and high marshal of
England,
in the reign
Richard
II. and lasted three years. Kings, princes of the blood and most of the
bore witness in this important affair. The sentence was conciliating, that both parties should bear the same arms; but the G
OSV
OURS,
a
une lendure d
to the king. The judgment: confirmed: the choice is left to the defendant, either to use the
bordure,
or to bear the arms of their relations, the antient earls of
Chester, azure a gerb d'or.
He rejected the mortifying distinction, and chose the
gerb;
which is the family coat to this day.
CROSS the the
Dee
at
Eaton-boat,
OLDFORD.
leaving on the right
Oldford bridge;
a neat structure, forming another communication between the two parts of the hundred of
Broxton;
which, at the time of the Conquest, bore the name of
Dudestan
hundred.
AFTER riding along a dirty flat country,
FARN.
reach
Farn
or
Farndon;
a small town on the
Dee,
called in Doomsday book
Ferenton.
The church was burnt by the parlement army in 1645, during the siege of
Holt castle;
and re-built after the cessation of the war. In one window, over the pew of the respectable family of
Barnston,
is some very beautiful painted glass, of a commander in his tent, with a truncheon in his hand, surrounded with the military instruments in use during the reign of
Charles
I. Around these are sixteen elegant figures of different ranks of soldiery, as low as the drummer, with their respective badges. Over the heads of the officers are coats of arms: over that of the commander are those of
Gamul;
and seem intended to preserve the memory of Sir
Francis Gamul
baronet, the active mayor of
Chester
during the civil wars. Over the heads of three others are the arms of the
Grosvenours,
the
Mainwarings,
and the
Barndistons;
three loyalists, who served in the same cause:
Roger Grosvenour;
Sir
William Mainwaring,
who was slain in defence of
Chester;
and
William Barndiston
of
Chirton,
Esq
who died in 1664.
THE poor reliques of the castle are seated close to the river; and are insulated by a vast foss cut through a deep bed of soft red stone;
CASTLE.
which seems originally to have been thus quarried for the building of the castle. This fortress consisted of five bastions, and the work cut into that form, to serve as a base to as many towers. An antient survey I met with in the
Museum,
among the
Harleian
MSS. taken in 1620 by
John Norden,
when it was entire, will give a true idea of this curious structure. It had been defended in three parts by the great chasm formed by the quarry; on the fourth by the
Dee,
into which jutted a great quay, still to be seen in very dry seasons; for it has long since been covered by the encroachment of the river.
ORIGINALLY this place had been a small out-post to
Deva.
Slopes, and other now almost obsolete works, may be seen near the castle, and on the opposite side of the water: and coins have been found here, that put the matter out of doubt. I have seen some of
Antoninus, Galienus, Constantinus,
and
Constantius.
I conjecture that the
Roman
name had been
Castra Legionis,
and the
Welsh, Castell Llcon,
or the castle of the legion; because it was garrisoned by a detachment of the legion stationed at
Chester.
The
English
borderers might easily mistake
Lleon
for the plural of
Llew,
which signifies a lion, and so call it the
castle of Lions;
as we find it styled when it came into possession of earl
Warren
and his successors.
THIS country formed part of
Powysland;
POWYSLAND.
which, when entire, reached in a straight line from
Broxton
hills in
Cheshire,
southerly to
Pengwern Powys,
or
Shrewsbury,
including a large tract in both these counties; from thence through the eastern limits of
Montgomeryshire,
comprehending all that county, part of
Radnorshire
and
Breeknockshire;
then turning northward, included the
wmmwds of
Mowddwy, Edeyrnion,
and
Glyndyfrdwy, Merionyddshire,
and (circuiting part of
Denbighshire
) comes along part of the
Clwydian
hills, to the summit of
Moel-samma,
including all
Denbighshire,
excepting those parts which at present constitute the lordships of
Denbigh
and
Ruthin;
from hence, taking
south-easterly direction to
Broxton
hills, asserts its right to
M
dale, Hopedale,
and
Maeler
in
Hintshire.
I have before taken notice, that
Offa
's encroachment was but temporary, and of short duration. I must farther observe, that in the articles of pacification
Powel
's notes on
Girald.
Itin.
Cambr.
lib. ii. c. II.
between
Henry
III. and our last prince Lle
. the limits of the principality experienced but a very small d
minution from what it was in
Offa
's time, when it was agreed, that the
Dee
should be the boundary from
Wirral
to
Castra
L
num,
or
Holt;
and from thence a direct line to
Pengwern Powys.
IT was, perhaps, of much greater extent under the reign of
Brochwel Ysgythrog,
who was defeated by the
Saxons
at the battle of
Chester.
After this event, the borders became a scene of rapine; the
Welsh
and the
Mercians
alternately making the the most terrible inroads ino each other's dominions
BEDE Hist. H
. ii. c. z. p. 80.
Sax. Cir.
25.
, till the time of
Offa;
who passing the
Severn
with a mighty force, expelled the
Britons
from their fruitful seats on the plains, and reduced the kingdom of
Powys
to the western side of the celebrated ditch still known by his name. The princes of
Powŷs
were then constrained to quit their antient residence at
Pengwern,
or
Shrewsbury,
and remove it to one not less fertile, to
Mathraval,
in the beautiful vale of
Meivod.
From this period, their kingdom was called indifferently, that of
Powys,
or of
Mathraval.
The plains of
Shropshire
became a confirmed part of the
Mercian
kingdom. The
trans-sabrine
portion of
Gloucestershire
and
Worcestershire,
and the county of
Hereford,
submitted to the yoke; but, after some time, the tract which forms the country above
Croes-oswallt
or
Oswestry,
and the two
Maelors, Gymraeg
or the present
Bromsield,
and
Saesneg
or the present
Flintshire Maclor,
with many other
Cwmmwds,
relapsed to its natural masters. Such was its state till 843, the reign of RODERIC THE GREAT prince of all
Wales;
who, in his mother's right, possessed
North Wales;
in that of his wife,
South Wales;
and by that of his gran-mother
Nest,
sister and heiress to
Congen ap Cadell
king of
Powys,
he added
Powysland
to his dominions
Powel, 35.
. He, according to the destructive custom of gavel-kind, divided his principality among his children; to
Anarawd
he gave NORTH WALES; to
Cadell,
SOUTH WALES; to
Mervyn
POWYSLAND. Each wore a
Talaith
or diadem of gold, beset with preclous stones; whence they were styled
Y
Tywy
g Taleithing,
or the three crowned princes.
AFTER the death of
Mervyn, Cadell
usurped the portion of his brother. His eldest son,
Howel Dda,
or the Good, in 940, again united all
Wales
into one government. He left four sons, who divided
South Wales
and
Powys
between them; while
North Wales
was assumed, in 948, by
Jevaf
and
Jago,
sons to his predecessor
Edwal Voel.
The confusion that ensued on this occasion, prevents me from saying any thing with certainty, till
Bleddyn ap Cynvyn,
who ruled
Wales
at the time of the Conquest, re-united the kingdoms of
North Wales
and
Powys.
The succession to the principality passed away from his children; but
Powysland
devolved to his sons; which came at length entire to
Meredith,
the eldest born, after the contentions and slaughter usual after such partitions
Powel,
notes upon
Girald.
Itin.
Cambr.
lib. ii. c. 12.
.
MEREDITH made the division which finally destroyed the power of this once potent kingdom. To his eldest son
Madoc,
he gave the part which bore afterwards the name of
Powys Vadog:
to
Gryssydd,
the portion which was called
Gwenwynwyn
Powel, 211.
.
I LEAVE to a future disquisition, the account of the remaining parts of
Powysland.
I shall only trace the succession of the first, which belongs more particularly to my subject. POWYS VADOG consisted, according to the division of the times, of five
Cantress
or hundred townships; and these were subdivided into fifteen
Cwmmwds.
CANTREF Y BARWN,
Dinmael
Llangwm Dinmael, Cirregy Druidion,
&c.
,
Denbighshire.
Edeyrnion, Merionethshire.
Glyndyfrdwy,
Ibid.
CANTREF Y RHIW,
Yale,
or
Jâl, Denbighshire.
Ystrad Alun,
or
Mold, Flintshire.
Hope,
Ibid.
CANTREF UWCHNANT,
Merffordd,
in
Flintshire.
Maelor Gymraeg,
or
Bromfield,
Denbighshire.
Maelor Saesneg, Flintshire.
CANTREF TREFRED,
Croes-vaen,
and
Trefy Waun,
or
Chirk,
in
Denbighshire.
Croes-oswallt,
or
Oswestry,
Shropshire.
CANTREF RHAIADR,
Mochnant-îs-Rhaiadr, Denbighshire.
Kynllaeth,
&c.
Denbighshire.
Nan-heudwy, Denbighshire.
Whittington, Shropshire.
Madoc
married
Susanna,
daughter of
Gryffydd ap Conan
prince of
North Wales,
by whom he had two sons;
Gryffydd Maelor,
and
Owen ap Madoc.
To the first he gave the two
Maelors, Yale, Hopedale,
and
Nan-heudwy,
and
Mochnant îs Rhaiadr,
&c.: to
Owen,
the land of
Mechain Is-coed:
and, to his natural son
Owen Brogyntyn,
a young man of great merit,
Edeyrnion
and
Dinmael
Powel, 211.
.
Gryffydd
married
Angharad,
the daughter of
Owen
Gwynedd,
and had one son named
Madoc,
in whom the inheritance remained entire.
WE now hasten to the end of the line.
Madoc
had only one son,
Gryffydd,
commonly called lord of
Dinas Brân,
because he made that fortress his chief residence. He unfortunately became enamoured of
Emma,
an
English
lady, daughter of
James
lord
Audley;
who, alienating his affections from his country, made him one instrument of its subjection, and of the destruction of his own family. He took part with
Henry
III. and
Edward
I. against his natural prince. The resentment of his countrymen was raised against him; and he was obliged to confine himself in his castle of
Dinas Brân,
where probably grief and shame put an end to his life. He left four children under age,
Madoc, Llewelyn, Gryffydd,
and
Owen.
EDWARD I. gave the guardianship of
Madoc,
the eldest (who was to have for his share the lordship of
Bromfield
and
Yale,
the castle of
Dinas Brán,
and the reversion of
Maelor Saesneg,
after the death of his mother) to
John
earl
Warren;
and of
Llewelyn
(who was to possess the lordships of
Chirk
and
Nan-heudwy
) to
Roger Mortimer,
son of lord
Mortimer,
of
Wigmore.
These lords soon conspired to free themselves from their charge, and possess themselves of their estates: and accordingly caused the poor children to be drowned under
Holt-bridge.
This I discovered in a manuscript, communicated to me by the Reverend Mr. PRICE, keeper of the
Bodleian
library. Before that, the manner of their deaths was current in the country, under the fable of two young fairies, who had been destroyed in that manner, and in the same place; but the foundation of the tale was, till very lately, totally lost.
HAVING now brought the succession to the required period, I shall only say, that
Gryffydd,
the third son, was suffered to enjoy his portion of
Glyndyfrdwy;
from whom sprung OWEN, the great revenger of the wrongs of his family: and the fourth son,
Owen,
received for his share,
Cynllaeth.
This afterwards devolved to
Gryffydd,
father of
Glyndwr.
THE barbarity of the two guardians, so far from being punished by their master, was rewarded.
Warren
had the grant of
Dinas Brân
and all
Bromfield
confirmed to him, dated from
Rudland, October
7th, 1281
AYLOFF's Rotuli
Walliae,
81.
;
Mortimer
that of
Chirk.
The former began immediately to secure his ill-gotten possessions by building
Holt Castle;
but dying, left the finishing of it to his son
William.
Before this grant, a family of the name of
Holt,
held this place; I suppose under its lord paramount. These estates continued in the family till 1347, when, on the death of
John
earl
Warren,
they devolved to
Edward Fitzalan
earl of
Arundel,
in right of his wife
Alice,
sister to the former.
Warren
had been divorced from his wife
Joan de Baars,
and had obtained from
Edward
II. a grant of his
Welsh
estates, and others in
Surrey
and
Sussex,
in favor of
John
and
Thomas,
sons of his by
Maud de Nereford,
to whom he had been contracted before his marriage with
Joan.
These children, probably, died without issue; the estates reverting, as he had in such a case provided, to his own right heirs
Dugdale Baron. i. 82.
.
THEY continued with the
Fitzalans
during three generations.
Richard
II. probably seized on them after the execution of
Richard
earl of
Arundel;
for we find that unhappy prince had lodged in
Holt Castle,
during his
Irish
expedition, jewels to the value of two hundred thousand marks, and a hundred thousand marks in coin
Holinshed.
; which, with the fortress, were delivered to
Bolingbroke,
previous to the deposal of
Richard. Thomas,
the son of
Richard,
was restored in blood in the following reign. He died in 1416, without issue; and his unsettled estates fell to his sissters,
Elizabeth,
who had married
Thomas Mowbray
duke of
Norfolk,
but then wife to Sir
Gerard Useflect;
and
Joan,
who had married
William B
auchamp
lord of
Abergavenny.
This occasioned a further division of these estates.
Joan
's share fell again, by a daughter, to
Nevil
lord
Abergavenny;
after which, I lose fight of the succession till the reign of
Henry
VII. when that prince made a grant of them to Sir
William Stanley.
On his execution,
Henry
not only resumed the lordship, but seized on his vast effects; and found in
Holt Castle,
in money and plate, forty thousand marks, besides jewels, household goods, and cattle on his ground
Leicester, 371.
.
HENRY VIII. bestowed this lordship on his natural son
Henry Fitzroy
duke of
Richmond;
and had possession given him at its capital of
Holt,
in 1534, by the duke of
Norfolk
and others
King, ii, 195.
. He enjoyed his honor but a short time, dying at the age of seventeen, in the year 1536.
IN the following reign, I find it in possession of
Thomas Seymour
lord admiral, and turbulent brother to the protector
Somerset.
He made the fortress at
Holt
subservient to his ambitious designs; and formed there a great magazine of warlike stores
Dugdale Baron, ii. 368.
. His deserved but illegal execution again flung
Bromfield
into possession of the crown.
CASTLE
THE great earl of
Leicester
was in possession of
Chirk;
and, probably, of the whole lordship of
Bromfield.
IN 1643,
Holt Castle
was in the hands of the crown; but in that year was feized for the use of the parlement, by Sir
William Brereton
and Sir
Thomas Middhton
Whitelock, 77.
Idem,
192. 201.
. The royalists recovered the possession. In
February
1645-6, it was closely besieged by major-general Mytton
Drake
Parlem, Hist. xiv. 356.
, and vigorously defended by the governor, Sir
Richard Lloyd
of
Ecclusham
near
Wrexham,
till the beginning of
April,
when it was surrendered on articles; the governor having permission to go beyond sea, with three hundred pounds; and his lady, to enjoy his lands, being three hundred pounds a year
Whitelock, 231.
Immediately after the parlement got possession, it was ordered to be demolished.
THE lordship is at present in the crown, under the direction of the steward of
Bromfield
and
Yale;
an office in his majesty's disposal: but a grant of the minerals (the far more valuable part) was made to the
Grosvenour
family in the reign of
Charles
I. subject to the annual payment of twenty shillings. An attempt was made by king
William
to alienate these important domains in favor of the earl of
Portland,
and his heirs for ever; but on a vigorous representation of the illegality, but particularly on the noble speech
British
Biogr. vii. app. 141.
of
Robert Price
Esq
afterwards baron of the exchequer, his majesty thought fit to withdraw the grant already made out in the treasury. The whole rents at that time resulting to the crown, amounted only to a thousand a year, besides mises, reliefs, and other contingent profits. The
mise
was, in
Wales,
a customary present made to the prince on his accession, in old times, in cattle; but after its conquest, changed into money. It amounted to about five thousand pounds. It was payed thrice in the time of
James
I, first, at his coming to the crown; secondly, on the creation of his son
Henry
prince of
Wales;
thirdly, on the creation of
Charles.
ON leaving
Holt,
I returned over the bridge; and, passing along a portion of CHESHIRE, in a flat country, with a pleasing view of the
Broxton
hills on the left, I reached the site of
Shocklach
castle. This, with great part of the antient hundred of
Dudestan,
was held after the Conquest by
Robert Fitzbugh,
from
Hugh Lupus.
It belonged to the barony of Malpas; but on the division of it, one part came to
John de Sutton
baron of Dudley, the other to
Urien de Sancto Petro.
What is remarkable, it was held of queen
Elizabeth,
as of her manor of
East Greenwich.
Nothing, excepting a foss, marks the place of this fortress. On the opposite side of the road is a vast mount, probably of far greater antiquity than the castle; and exploratory, commanding a great view around. By the name of
Stretton,
a neighboring place, I conjecture that a
Roman
road went this way; but my time did not permit me to search after it.
AT a small distance from
Shocklach
castle, I entered
Maelor Saesneg,
a hundred of FLINTSHIRE, disjoined from the rest of the county. At the time of the making of the, Doomsday book, the lands about
Worthenbury, Overton,
and
Bettisfield
or the present parish of
Hanmer,
belonged to the hundred of
Dudestan.
But long before the forming of the new hundreds, which, according to Sir
Peter Leicester,
did not happen much later than the reign of
Edward
III. it is certain these places reverted to the descendants of the princes of
Powis.
it seems as if it acquired the name of
Saesneg,
from its having been the jointure of
Emma,
widow of
Gryffydd ap Madoc,
who was an
Englishwoman.
It consists of these parishes;
Worthenbury, Bangor, Hanmer,
and the chapelry of
Overton,
on this side of the
Dee,
of
Erbistock
on the other side, opposite to
Overton;
and of
Hope
in the other portion of the county of
Flint
Parts in other parishes are,
Is-coed
in
Melpas, Penley
in
Ellesmere,
and
Bodidris
in
Llanarmon.
. Part only of
Erbistock
is in
Flintshire;
the rest in
Denbighshire.
Besides these parishes, are several spots that belong to this hundred, insulated by the last county, which form nearly a connection between this and the other part of the hundred. The chain is supposed to have been once entire; but as many of the links were osten fields, which (by reason of their smallness) were neglected, and lost. One of the townships of
Dutton,
in
Holt
parish, is known to have belonged to this hundred; as that of
Abenbury Vechan,
in that of
Wrexham,
does at present.
Osley
and
Mereford,
the last in the parish of
Gresford,
were, by the 33d of
Henry
VIII. added to
Flintshire,
and assist to continue the chain towards
Hope,
the distant portion of this hundred. These were but recently made parts of
Flintshire,
in comparison of the rest of
Maelor Saesneg;
which was declared to constitute part of the county by
Edward
I. in the
Statutum Walliae.
THE lordship or superiority of the hundred was granted (I believe) by
Henry
IV. to Sir
John Stanley
knight, and continued in his family till the 41st of
Elizabeth;
when
William
earl of
Derby
devised it to Sir
Randle Brerelon;
and it has since devolved to Sir
Walden Hanmer
baronet, and
Philip Lloyd Fletcher
esquire.
THIS part of
Flintshire
is under the same government as the rest; excepting the obligation of attending the county courts, which is dispensed with by reason of its distance from the towns where they are held. It has also a coroner of its own; but eligible by the county at large.
THE limit between this part of the hundred and
Cheshire
is
Flannen Brook:
about a mile beyond is the village and church of
Worthenbury;
the last, a new and neat brick building, dedicated to St.
Deiniol;
a rectory taken out of
Bangor,
and made a separate parish by an act of the second of
William
and
Mary,
in the presentation of the family of
Emral.
The name in the Doomsday book is
Hurdingberie;
before the Conquest held by earl
Edwin.
I TOOK my quarters at
Broughton;
BROUCHTON.
a venerable wooden house, in possession of my respected kinsman
Peter Davies
Esq
in right of his lady, eldest sister to the late
Broughton
Esq
. The
Whiteballs
were originally of
Staff
rashire;
but settled here in 1663, by virtue of a marriage between
Rowland Whitehall
and
Elizabeth
daughter of
John Brouglton.
The
Broughtons
derived themselves from the great
Weish
stock
Tudor Trovor,
earl of
Hereford,
and assumed their name from this place, in the reign of
Henry
VII.
AT the back of this house
In the preceding page,
THREAP WOOD
line 21 instead of eldest sister,
read
surviving sister.
lies the noted common of
Threapwood,
from time immemorial a place of refuge for the frail fair, who make here a transient abode, clandestinely to be freed from the consequences of illicit love. Numbers of houses are scattered over the common for their reception. This tract, till of late years, had the ill-fortune to be extra-parochial: at first, either because it was in the hands of irreligious or careless owners, or was situated in forest or desert places
Blackstone, 4 to, i. 113.
, it never was united to any parish. The inhabitants, therefore, considered themselves as beyond the reach of law, resisted all government; and even opposed the excise laws, till they were forced to submit, but not without bloodshed on the occasion. The very name of the place speaks the manners of the dwellers,
Threap-wood,
derived from the
Anglo-Saxon Threapian,
to
threap
(a word still in use); signifying to persist in a fact or argument, be it right or wrong. It is seated between the parishes of
Malpas, Hanmer,
and
Worthenbury;
but belonged to none, till it was, by the late militia acts, decreed to be in the last. Still doubts arise about execution of several laws within this precinct. It is to be hoped, that legislature will take an opportunity of rendering the magisterial power as valid here as in other places; especially when it is to be considered, that there are to the amount of two hundred and sixty-seven inhabitants, who want instruction in the doctrine of universal submission to law.
FROM
Broughton
I made an excursion to
Hanmer,
HANMER.
distant about five or six miles: passed over part of
Threap-wood;
and observed in the inclosares; some venerable oaks, the remains of the antient forest. Cross
Sarn-bridge,
over the
Wich-brook,
which rises about two miles above, in part of the parish of
Malpas,
but in the county of
Flint,
near the
Wiches;
where are brine-springs and salt-works. Reach a house called
Willington-cross.
The country, which hitherto had been uncommonly wet and dirty, now changes to a sandy soil, and becomes broken into small risings. The part about the little town of
Hanmer
is extremely beautiful; varied with a lake of fifty acres, bounded on all sides with small cultivated eminences, embellished with woods. The town, church, and the chief seat of the family of the
Hanmers,
a modern brick house, adorn one part; and on the opposite side of the water, on the sire of the old house of
Greddington,
another seat is projected by that eminent lawyer,
Lloyd Kenyon,
esquire.
THE church is a very handsome embattled building,
CHURCH.
of the reign of
Henry
VII. in whose time numbers of churches were re-built alter the long desolation of civil war. The roof is of wood: that of the
Fe
s
chapel, and of the north aile, are divided in small squares, and carved in a most elegant style. In the windows of the former was some painted glass, with dates, expressing the time of its being made, at the cost of the
Hanmers;
who
the presentation of the vicarage granted to them by the abby of
Heg
,
near
Shrewsbury,
in 1424.
PLAN OF HAWARDEN CASTLE.
ABOUT two miles farther is
Bettissield;
BETTISFIELD.
an old brick house belonging to the same family. I observed here a head of the late Sir
Thomas Hanmer,
by
Kneller,
in a long wig and cravat; an elegant figure of a lady
Hanmer,
with a forehead-cloth, in an elegant white undress, studying
Gerard
's herbal; and a small portrait of a lady
Warner, a la magdalene,
LADY WARNER.
with long disheveled hair, and a scull in her hand. She was a daughter of the house, and wife to a Sir
John Warner;
who, not content with quitting the religion of thir parents, determined to quit the kingdom, and embrace the monastic life. Their friends applied to the king (
Charles
II.) to divert them from their resolution. His majesty, with his wicked wit, told them, that if Sir
John had a mind to make himself one of God Almighty's fools, they must have, patience.
Sir
John
became a Jesuit, and assumed the name of brother
Clare;
she a poor
Clare,
of which order she performed the noviciateship with marvellous obedience!
I am black, but comely,
was the text of a preacher, one day exhorting her (in what is called a cloathing sermon) to humility; expressing, that she must make herself black (alluding to the habit) in the eyes of the world, to become more fair in the sight of the LORD. The abbess on this said to the poor novice,
You also,
SISTER CLARE,
must black yourself.
On which she went instantly into the kitchen, where she blacked her face and hands with the soot of the chimney; and thus became an instructive example to the admiring sisters
Vide Life of Lady
Warner,
p. 108.
London
1696.
!
BETTISFIELD has for centuries belonged to the
Hanmers.
Before the battle of,
,
a division of their estates was made.
Jenkin Hanmer,
the brother-in-law to the great
Glynd
r,
divided his estates among his four sons. He gave
Hanmer,
and his lands at
Llwyn Derw
or
Ockenlolt,
obtained with his first wife
Margaret,
daughter of
Davydd ap Bleddyn Vychan,
to their son
Gryfsydd.
By his second marriage, with
Eva
daughter to
Davydd ap Grono ap Jerwerth
of
Llai,
he had
John, Edward,
and
Richard.
To
John
he gave
Halghton
(a hous;e in this neighborhood) and
Llai;
to
Edward,
lands in
Fenns,
a place likewise not remote; and to
Richard,
lands in
Betisfield. Jenkin
soon after fell, valiantly. fighting, in the field rear
Slrewstury,
against the usurper
B
breke. John
departed from the principles of his father, and embraced the side of the house of
Lancaster,
in the reign of
Henry
VI.
John Mowbray
duke of
Norfolk,
and
Grey
lord
,
carried fire and sword through his esates in 1463, and burns his house at
Halghton;
which induced him, the year following to make his submission to the victorious
Edward
Salastary
Pedigrce.
.
ALL these estates, excepting
Halghton,
are now united, and in possession of Sir
Walden Hanmer
baronet.
ON leaving
Broughton,
I took the road towards
Banger.
On the right lies
Emral Hall,
the seat of the
Pul
ston;
a family seteled here in the time of
Edward
I. but took their name from
Puleydon,
a township in
Shropshtre.
The first who possessed the place was
Roger,
a favorite officer of the king; who, after the conquest of.
Wales,
appointed him collector of the taxes raised towards the support of the war against
France;
but the
Welsh,
unused to these levies, seized on
de Pulesdon
and hanged him
Powel, 380.
. His son
Richard
was appointed, by the same prince, sheriff of
Caernarvon,
with a salary of forty pounds, and all arrears
AYLOFF's
Rot. Walli
,
101.
. His son, another
Richard,
held, in the 7th or
Edward
II. lands in the parish of
Worthenbury,
by certain serviccs,
& per ammabrogium,
or a pecuniary acknowlegement paid by tenants to the king, or vassals to their lord, for the liberty of marrying, or not marrying. Thus
Gilbert de Maisuil
gave ten marks of silver to
Henry
III. for leave to take a wife; and
Cecily,
widow of
Hugh Povere,
that she might marry whom she pleased
Madox. Antiq. Excheq. i. 465. 6.
, It is strange that this servile custom should be retained so long. It is pretended, that the
Amobyr
among the
Welsh,
the
Lyre-wite
among the
Semons,
and the
Marcheta mulierum
among the
Scots,
were fines paid by the vassal to the superior, to buy off his right to the first night's lodging with the bride of the person who held from him: but I believe there never was any
European
nation (in the periods this custom was pretended to exist) so barbarous as to admit it. It is true, that the power above cited was introduced into
England
by the
Normans,
out of their own country.
AMORYR.
The
Amoryr,
or rather
Gobr merob,
was a
Eritish
custom of great antiquity, paid other for violating the chaslity of a virgin; or for a marriage of a vassal
Leges Walli
, 92. & Glossar. 554.
, and signifies
the price of a virgin.
The
Welsh
laws, so far from encouraging adultery. checked, by severe sines, even unbecoming liberties
Leges Wallica, 78.
. The
Amolyr
was intended as a preservative against lewdness. If a virgin was deflowered, the seducer, or, in his stead, her father, paid the fine. If she married, he also paid the fine. There is one species so singular as to merit mention: if a wife proved unfaithful to her husband's bed, the poor cuckold was obliged to pay his superior five shillings as long as he did
cydgysgu,
sleep with her; but if he forbore cohabiting with her, and she
cydgysgu'd
with her gallant, the fine fell on the offending fair.
THE
Saxons
had their
Lyre-wyte
or
Lecher-wyte,
LYRE-WYTE.
for the same end that the
Welsh
had their
Amobyr.
The crime is mentioned often in the
Saxon
laws
Leges Saxon. 40. 132.
: once, with a cruel penalty denounced against the offender; and a second time, with a strong dehortation from the commission. In general, the crime was expiated by money, according to the degree of the person injured. The
at this time commute, in certain degrees of offence; but oftener punish it with burning, and other excruciating deaths
Gentoo Laws, 268, &c.
.
CONTINUE my journey to
Bangor,
BANGOR.
seated on the banks of the
Dee;
which is here bounded on both sides by rich meadows. The church has been built at different times; but no part very antient. It is a rectory, dedicated to St.
Dinoth
abbot of
Bancornaburg
or
Bangor,
in the days of St.
Augustine.
It is in the gift of
Philip Lloyd Fletcher
Esq
. This place is celebrated for being the site of the most antient
British
monastery, or rather seminary, which contained two thousand four hundred monks; who, dividing themselves into seven bands, passed their time alternately in prayer and labor
BEDAE Hist. Eccles. lib. ii. c. 2. p. 80.
; or, as another writer
Cambden, i. 663.
says, a hundred (by turns) passed one hour in devotion; so that the whole twenty-four hours were employed in sacred duties. This pious community was dispersed, after the slaughter of their brethren at the battle of
Chester,
and their house overthrown.
William
the monk, and librarian of
Malmsbury,
cotemporary with king
Stephen,
speaks of the remains in his days; saying that no place could shew greater remains of half-demolished churches, and multitudes of other ruins that were to be seen in his time
Script. post. BEDAM, 294.
. Mention is made of two gates of the precincts, that were a mile distant, with the
Dee
running between them; one was called
Porth Clais,
the other
Porth Wgan.
The name of the first is retained in that of a place called
Clai;
of the other in a house called
Hogan.
The precincts must have been large, as the monks maintained themselves by the labor of their own hands. The simple and unlearned provided meat and cloathing for the learned, and distributed to the poor all superfluities. It sent forth many thousands of religious; and its same would have been immaculate, had it not produced the celebrated
Pelagius,
about the year 400, the same who is usually stigmatized by the name of the arch-heretic. Two of his tenets, perhaps, in these days, may give him many proselytes:
That good works were meritorious; and that unbaptized infants ran no hazard of damnation.
THE monks of this community, in common with all the
British
clergy, were strenuous opposers of the usurpation of the church of
Rome.
Seven bishops, and a great number of learned men, were deputed from
Bangor
to meet the famous missionary
Augustine
the monk; when he insisted on their concurrence with his demands, with such insolence, that they left him, determined to maintain the original rites of their own church; which remained pure, and independent of all foreign prelates, for many centuries after that period.
Augustine
threatened the
Britons
with the resentment cf the
Saxons.
How far he instigated
Edi
fred
in his invasion does not appear; but, if BEDE may be depended on, the massacre of the monks almost immediately followed his menaces
BEDAE Hist. Eccles. lib. ii. c. 2. p. 80.
.
I COULD discover no remains of this once noted place; but was informed, that squared stones have been often ploughed up in a field called the
Stanyards;
probably the site of some of the antient buildings.
THIS place had been also the site of the supposed
Bo
ium
or
Bovium,
a
Roman
station.
Leland
says, that in his time
Roman
money was found there. I could find neither coins or inscriptions, or any thing of higher antiquity than four stone coffin-lids, engraven in the annexed plate, and an antient cross; all dug up in the church-yard. No 1. has on it the arms of the earls
Warren:
2. the same, quartered with arms unknown to me: 3. is inscribed
Hic jacet
ITHEL CADWGAY:
COFFIN LIDS found at BANGOR.
the 4th, inscribed
Hic jacet
WILLIAM LE FRENS; probably a person of
Norman
extraction. I find the name in Sir
Peter Leicester's Cheshire
275.
: one
Hugh de Frenos,
who married
Alice,
daughter of
Lacy
earl of
Lincoln,
and widow of
Thomas
earl of
Lancaster,
beheaded 1321. The cross is far the most antient. The ingenious herald, Mr.
Wilkinson,
imagines, that the gryphon and the lion (which are both ancient
British
arms) looking towards the cross, may signify the early embracing of Christianity by the nations of our island.
THE antient
British
boats, the
vitilia navigia
of
Pliny;
the modern coracles; are much in use in these parts for the purposes of salmon-fishing. They have now lost the cause of their name, being no longer covered with
coria
or hides, but with strong pitched canvas. They hold only a single person, who uses a paddle with great dexterity
Water-races are often performed here in these slight vessels. On
Michacl
day next, a
regatta
of great magnificence is to be exhibited by them above
Bangor Bridge.
. The
Britons
had them of large size, and even made short voyages in them, according to the accounts we receive from
Lucan.
THE bridge is a beautiful light structure, and consists of five arches. A learned schoolmaster, in the following inscription, has commemorated the time of its reparation.
MVND. 5607. DENB. CC. CONCIT. REPARAT. AN. CHRIST. 1658. SVMP. E COMIT. LIB. M. A. HEGYR. 1036. FLINT. C.
ON crossing the
Dee,
EYTON.
entered into
Denbighshire
again; and, turning short to the left, after two miles riding, visited
Eyton,
the seat of
Kenrick Eyton
Esq
. This house was head of a numerous race of gentry, that took their name from the place, so called from its situation. The
Dee
rolls beneath, and forms a long and solemn reach, overshadowed by hanging woods. At
Overton
bridge, which lies about a mile beyond
Eyton,
the channel is contracted, and the stream flows picturesquely between lofty banks, admirably described by the inimitable pencil of Mr. SAND
Y. This bridge consists of two neat arches, and was first built of stone by the munificence of
Gwenhwyvar,
daughter of
Jerwerth Ddu
of
Pengwern,
near
Llangollen;
a maiden lady who resided at
Eyton
with her sister
Margaret,
who was married to
Madoc ap Evan Eyton
Eyton Pidigree.
.
OVERTON,
OVERTON.
or
Overton Madoc,
the
Ovreton
of the Doomsday book, is a pleasant village, seated on a high bank, about a mile beyond the bridge, above a rich meadowy flat of a semicircular form, varied by the
Dee,
and bounded in front with fertile and wooded slopes; while the lofty and naked mountains soar beyond, and close the scene.
THIS place was called, at the time of the Conquest,
Ovretone;
had then a
Saxon
owner; but was granted to
Robert Fitzbugh.
I find in 1278, or the 7th of
Edward
I. that it was in possession of
Robert de Crevecoeur,
who obtained for it a weekly market on a
Wednesday
Dugdale Baron. i. 592.
. In the 21st of the same reign, the king directed
Reginald de Grey,
justice of
Chester,
to go personally to
Overton,
and there to assign to the burgesses, or such as would become inhabitants, competent land, within the demesnes of
Overton
castle and wood, to build them burgages with
Har
ian
MSS. No 2074. 45.
. Such encouragement did this wise prince give to population, to secure the frontiers of his new conquest. In 1331, or the 5th of
Edward
III. it was granted, with other lands in this
Maelor,
to
Eubule le Strange,
baron of
Knockyn
Dugdale Baron. i. 668.
.
THERE are no reliques of the castle; which stood in a field still called
Castlefield,
fronting the
Dee.
Tradition says, that it had been the residence of
Madoc ap Meredydd
prince of
Powys
and lord of
Overton;
from which the place received the addition of
Madoc.
THE church is a handsome building; and the church-yard reckoned among the wonders of
Wales,
on account of its handsome yew-trees. The place is only a curacy, in the parish of
Bangor,
in the diocese of
Chester.
OVERTON is one of the contributory boroughs which send a member for that of
Flint;
which is done by the inhabitants of
Overton-foreign
and
Knolton,
paying scot and lot. This right had been settled in the years 1728 and 1737; but a doubt arising, whether payment of taxes by the landlord was sufficient, in 1741, it was determined by parlement in the negative.
Hanmer,
and several other places, laid in a clame to vote; but it was rejected by the commons in the beginning of this century.
GWERNHAILED,
GWERNHAILED.
the seat of Mr.
Fletcher,
in this parish, must not pass unnoticed. Few places command so rich a view; and few have been more judiciously improved. It stands on the lofty brow that skirts the country. Beneath runs the
Dee;
bounded on the opposite side by most beautiful meadows and varied in the distance with numbers of hills; among which those of
Caer-gwrle
form a most noble and conspicuous mass.
IN this neighborhood I visited the fine collection of birds at
Bryn y p
s,
BRYNY PYS.
the seat of
Richard Parry Price
Esq
.
NEW VULTURE.
Among other
were a pair of vultures; which I take the liberty of mentioning in this place, as being an undescribed species. They were the smallest of the genus, not above half as big again as the kite. Their bill whitish, long, and but little hooked; cere bluish; orbits naked and flesh-colored; irides straw-colored; head and neck, contrary to the character of the genus, cloathed with feathers; craw pendulous; head, neck, back, breast, belly, and lesser coverts of the wings, of a pure white; greater coverts, and primaries, black, the last tipt with white; the lower part of the tail black; the end white; legs dirty white, roughened with scales.
INHABIT
Angola.
Were very restless and querulous; and much more active than is usual with this sluggish race. They are now dead; but their
exuviae,
stuffed so as to mimic life, are placed in the matchless
Museum
of ASHTON LEVER
Esq
which is f
r the most instructive and elegant of any in
Europe;
and from which the mere admirer will receive equal pleasure with the profoundest
connoisseur.
I MUST not leave this neighborhood without observing that the little owl
Brit. Zool.
i. No 70.
, that rare
English
species, has been shot in some adjacent woods. It is very frequent abroad; where they collect in autumn and the spring in great flocks, in order to migrate in search of field-mice.
Childrey,
in his
Britannia Baconica
Pp. 14. 100.
mentions two instances of armies of strange painted owls, that came in 1580, and in 1648, into
Essex,
and waged war against the multiludes of mice in those times destroying the country: but whether they were owls of this species I cannot determine. I am assured by Mr. STUART, that this kind visits
Attica
in vast flocks every spring, and breeds there. It is no wonder that the
Athenian
goddess should have this bird as her concomitant, being so very common there. It is very frequently expressed on the
Athenian
coins and sculptures; and I have seen it placed on the hand of a statue of hers, in the noble collection belonging to
William Weddel
Esq
at
Newby
in
Yorkshire.
WITHIN a small distance from
Overton,
I entered the county of SALOP or SHROPSHIRE, at
Trench-lane,
once infamous for its depth and badness. This county was peopled by the
Cornavii;
and, till the time of
Offa,
was divided between the princes of
Powys
and the
Mercian
kingdom: but
Offa,
after his expulsion of the
Welsh
from their antient seat of
Pengwern
or
Shrewsbury,
added their part to his dominions. At the Conquest, it was possessed by the brave
Edwin,
the last earl of
Mercia.
On his death, it was bestowed by the Conqueror on
Roger de Montgomery,
a potent
Norman,
the first earl of
Arundel
and
Shrewsbury.
THE country,
ELLESMERE.
for the greatest part of the way to
Ellesmere,
is flat, dirty, and unpleasing. On the approach to the town, becomes more agreeable; and about it, breaks into most beautiful risings, fertile, and finely wooded; the bottoms are indeed destitute of rivers; but frequently filled with little lakes, called here
meres,
elegantly bordered by the cultivated hills. It is singular that none of them are the parents of streams; their encrease from rains and springs, and their loss by exhalations, keep such equal pace!
ELLESMERE is a town seated on a lake of a hundred and one acres in dimensions; and whose greatest depth is twenty-six yards; well stocked with fish.
THE environs have two advantages superior to the other lakes. A good town borders on one side: the fine park of
Ockle,
or
Ottley,
is a great ornament to another. The property of the water is in the duke of
Bridgewater.
THE town is of
Saxon
origin, and takes its name from the water; which was called
Aelsmere,
or the
greatest mere,
being the chief in this part of the county. The place has little to boast of except its situation. The principal trade is that of malt; the barley of the neighborhood being remarkably good.
THE castle stood on a vast artificial mount on a rising ground,
CASTLE.
with three great ditches on the more accessible side. At present not a vestige is to be seen; the top being formed into a bowling-green, that may vie with any in
England
for the elegance and extent of inland prospect; of the lake beneath; of the rich country and woods surrounding the town. At a distance,
Chester
and the
Broxton
hills;
Wrexham
and the
Caergwrle
mountains; Castle
Dinas Brân,
and the
Berwyn
alps; and some of those of
Merionethshire; Llanymynach
hill, the
Breyddin, Pimhill, Cleehill,
and the noted
Wrekin.
I CANNOT trace the founder of the castle, nor yet the time of its destruction. The place was possessed, as I before said, by
Edwin
immediately before the Conquest; and on that event, by
Roger de Montgomery.
IN 1177, it was transferred to a prince of
North Wales. Henry
II. in that year, assembled a council at
Oxford,
and, among other regulations for the security of the kingdom, bestowed on
David ap Owen
his natural sister
Emma,
with the lordship of
Ellesmere
as a portion. This the politic monarch did, in hopes of retaining the affections of
David,
and to prevent a breach with the
Welsh;
who gave him such great disturbance, and so often baffled his greatest endeavors to subdue them during the reign of
Owen Gwynedd
father to
David.
This alliance answered his purpose; for the
English
remained unmolested during the life of that prince.
AFTER his decease,
Robert Lupus
held, by his bailiff, this manor.
AFTER this, it came a second time into the hands of a prince of
Wales.
King
John,
by grant dated from
Dover, April
16th 1204, bestowed it, with
Joan,
his natural child by
Agatha
daughter of
Robert Ferrers
earl of
Derby,
on
Llewelyn ap Jorwerth.
It is probable that
John
hoped, by means of his son-in-law, to terrify the lord marchers into obedience: but the unfortunate monarch reaped no benefit from the alliance.
Joan
proved unfaithful to our prince's bed; who hanged
William de Breos,
author of his disgrace, and turned his arms against the
English.
This induced
John
to divest
Llewelyn
of the government of so important a fortress as a frontier castle; for, by a writ dated from
Warwick,
in the tenth year of his reign, he orders the governnor,
Bartholomew Turol,
to deliver it instantly to
William
earl of
Salusbury
and
Thomas
of
Endinton.
But still left the revenues of the lands to his daughter.
IN the fourth or
Henry
III. or the year 1219,
Roger L'Estrange
yielded to the king the manors of
Colmere
and
Hampton;
but received them again, together with the hundred of
Ellesmere
and its castle; but for life only.
In 1236, or the 21st of the same monarch, it appears that
John L'Estrange
was governor of the castle. Four years after this,
Henry
determined no longer to leave a place of this consequence in the hands of the
Welsh.
Accordingly, we find him obliging
David ap Llewelyn
to make a formal renunciation of this territory, which he cedes for ever. The treaty was dated from
Alnet
on the
Elwy,
on the feast of the decollation of St.
John the Baptist,
in 1240.
IN 1252, the 37th of
Henry
III. the manor and castle of
Ellsmere
were committed to
John de Grey,
paying an annual fine of ten shillings.
IN the 43d year, or 1258,
Peter de Montfort
was governor of the castle. In the 51st, the manor, castle, and hundred were granted to
Hamon L'Estrange
and his
, with a provision
HALSTON
out of the escheat of the manor, castle, and hundred, of a hundred pounds a year. This nobleman took a large share in the barons wars; was excommunicated for his insolence by the archbishop of
Canterbury;
but returning to his allegiance, was employed in places of trust, which he discharged with the utmost fidelity. It is said that he purchased the manors of
Coalmere
and
Hampton
from
Peter de Montfort,
which he left to his brother Sir
Roger L'Estrange. Edward
I. in the fourth year of his reign, on the surrender of the grant of
Hamon
(which was to him and his heirs) confirmed it anew, on condition he would receive the castle and hundred of
Ellesmere
for life, and the remainder to the king in fee. This
Roger,
by the king's warrant, granted several parcels of the manor to different persons: and about the same time, the wastes and commons were inclosed and converted into freeholds.
In 1320,
Edward
II. on the insurrection of the earl of
Lancaster,
appointed
Oliver de Ingehan
governor of the castle.
Edward
III. in 1329, after causing the encroachments made on this manor to be reduced, bestowed the castle, and the hamlets of
Colmere
and
Hampton,
on Sir
Eubule L'Estrange,
younger son of baron
L'Estrange
of
Knockin.
They continued in his line till 1477, the 17th of
Edward
IV; when, by the marriage of
Joan,
daughter of the last male heir, with
George Stanley,
eldest son to
Thomas
first earl of
Derby,
they were conveyed to that great house, which was possessed of them till 1549, the 42d of
Elizabeth;
when
William
earl of
Derby
had licence from the queen to alienate them; which he did, to
Richard Spencer
and
Edward Savage;
and they, to Sir
Thomas Egerton
keeper of the great seal, and afterwards chancellor of
England
and baron of
Ellesmere.
It is now in possession of his descendant, the duke of
Bridgewater,
who has vast property about the town; but no seat, except a very mean one, called
Birch.
THE church antiently belonged to the knights of St.
John
of
Jerusalem.
It was granted to them by
Llewelyn;
and
Edward
III. confirmed to their prior the donation. The vicarage is in the gift of the duke of
Bridgewater.
The chapels of
Cockshute, Dudleston,
and
Penley,
are dependent on it.
IN the church is an alabaster figure of Sir
Francis Kynaston
of
Ottley;
and another of his lady, much mutilated. He died in 1590. The venerable house to which this knight belonged, was one of the most antient freeholds now in the parish; being found to have been the property of e
Kynastons
in 1308, the 2d of
Edward
II. It has been distinguished by many eminent persons; particularly another Sir
Francis,
esquire of the body to
Charles
I. famous for his Latin translation of the Loves of
Troilus
and Cressida, from the
English
of
Chaucer.
From
Ellesmere
I continued my journey towards
Oswestry.
From an eminence called the
Perthy,
have a most extensive view of the flat part of the county, bounded by the hills of
Denbighshire, Montgomeryshire,
and
Shropshire.
Amidst them appear the vast gaps, through which the
Severn
and the
Dee
rush upon the plains out of their mountanous confinement. This tract is intermixed with woods, fertile land, and moors of great extent. After a ride of two or three miles along the flat, reach HALSTON, the seat of the
Myttons,
HALSTON.
my maternal ancestry; a good house, built about the year 1690, with the advantage of wood and water, managed with excellent taste by my worthy cousin
John Mytton
Esq
. The house is situated on an elevated plot of ground, which rises out of an extensive flat, great part of which was subject to frequent floods; an inconvenience which has since been removed by the present owner, at the expence of much trouble and money, in draining considerable tracts of low ground; whereby the neighborhood is rendered more healthy and pleasant. This flat, being well dotted with trees, agreeably foreshortens the prospect, till it is bounded by the magnificent scenery of the surrounding hills, which distinctly form, in various shapes, many pleasing points of view. A very extensive wood flanks each side of the house, which is bounded by a fine piece of water, made by extending the banks of the river
Perry,
and by conveying a branch of it through the lower parts of the wood, inclosing several islands, whose shores are shaded by very large full-grown oaks; which all together forms one of the most pleasing artificial pieces of water that is to be met with. The rest of the grounds are watered with the river
Perry;
a stream which used to abound with excellent pike, perch, trout, dace, gudgeons, cray-fish, and eels, till modern luxury gave an additional spur to the dexterity of poachers; a grievance complained of, though encouraged, in this as well as in most rivers in the kingdom. The
Perry
rises in the hills, in the parish of
Syllatyn,
and passes through several moors to the village of
Ryton,
and afterwards falls into the
Severn
a little below
Montford bridge.
AT this place was born the famous general
Mytton,
GENERAL MYTTON.
who commanded the parlement forces in
Charles
I.'s civil wars; by whose military prowess most of the castles in
North Wales
were subdued; but finding that
Cromwell
and his party had farther designs than the mere defence of liberty (the cause in which he engaged) resigned his command and retired.
HERE is a well-chosen library, and a good collection of pictures: amongst which are some very capital; particularly,
Jacob,
and his son
Reuben
shewing
Josepb
's bloody shirt, by Guer
; a head, by
Raphael;
St.
Peter,
by
Guido;
king
David,
by
Dominichino.
Mr.
Mytton
is in possession of a carving, much resembling that mentioned by Mr. WALPOLE, in his Anecdotes of Painting, ii. 42. It is the portrait of
Charles
I. full-faced, cut on a peach-stone: above is a crown. His face and cloaths, which are the
Vandyck
dress, are painted. On the reverse is an eagle transfixed with an arrow; and around it this motto,
I feathered this arrow.
The whole is most admirably executed; and is set in gold with a crystal on each side. It probably was the work of
Nicholas Briot,
a great graver of the mint in the time of
Charles
I.
. Mr.
William Mytton
's curious manuscripts of the
Shropshire
antiquities are preserved here; a work which he had been many years engaged in with indefatigable attention, but, unfortunately for the public, died before he could complete his design. To his labors I owe frequent obligations in this part of the work.
IN
Saxon
times,
ANTIENT OWNERS.
the lordship of
Halston
belonged to
Edric.
At that time there were on it two
Welshmen
and one
Frenchman.
After the Conquest, it became the property of
Guarine,
sheriff of
Shropshire,
ancestor to the
Fitzalans
earls of
Arundel,
by marriage with a
Mellet Peverel,
who received this as part of her fortune. Afterwards, it became a commandery belonging to the knights of St.
John
of
Jerusalem,
bestowed on them by some of the
Filzalans.
In the 26th of
Henry
VIII. it was valued at 160 l. 14 s. 10 d. a year
Tanner, 457.
.
AT the dissolution,
Henry
VIII. empowered, by his letters patent,
John Sewster
Esq
to dispose of this manor to
Alan Horde,
who did homage for it; and afterwards exchanged it for other lands, with
Edward Mytton
of
Habberley;
which alienation was confirmed afterwards by queen
Elizabeth.
THE chapel is a donative, without any other revenue than what the owner is pleased to allow his chaplain; and is of exempt jurisdiction.
THE name imports something of sanctity, signifying the
Holy Stone.
Probably a cross or stone, the object of superstition, might once have stood here; but that and its legend are quite lost. That it had been a sanctuary is evident. In the reign of
Richard
I.
Meyric Llwyd,
descended from
Hêdd Molwynog,
one of the fifteen tribes of
North Wales,
indignant at certain injuries done his country, by the introduction of new laws and new customs, seized several of the king's officers appointed to see them executed, and slew some, and hung others. He fled the rage of his enemies, and took refuge at this place
Davies
's display of heraldry, 45.
.
AT a mile's distance from
Halston,
WHITTINGTON.
I reached
Whittington;
a village of ninety-four families, seated in a parish of the same name. The number of families in the whole amounts to two hundred and seventy-five. The population has of late encreased pretty much. The addition to the numbers in the parish have chiefly been confined to the village, owing to the several houses built for the conveniency of laborers, by the family of the Mytton
which evinces the duty and utility of rural residence in our gentry, by promoting population, and cherishing the industrious poor.
MR. LLOYD, in his
Archaeologia
P. 260.
, imagines this place might have been celebrated under the name of
Drév Wen,
or the
Whe
e Town,
by
Llowarch Hén,
a noble bard of the race of the
Cumbrian Britons,
who flourished in the year 590. Here, says he, was slain
Condolanus,
a chieftain of his country, in an attempt to expel a set of
Irish
invaders:
Y
Drév Wen
ym mron y coed:
Yseu yu y hevras erioed:
Ar wyneb y gwelht y gwaed.
Y
Drév Wen
yn yd hymyr
Y hevras y glàs vyvyr
Y gwaed y dan draed y gwŷr.
Some part of this is too obsolete to be translated. It expresses in general the rage of a battle; and that the grass under the feet of the warriors was stained with blood.
OUR bards also make this place the property of
Tudor Trevor,
a
British
nobleman who lived in the year 924, and in right of his mother
Rhiengar
grandaughter and heiress of
Caradoc-Freichfras,
slain by the
Saxons
in the battle of
Ruddlan
Powel,
20.
Collins's Baronetis,
iii. 129,
, in 795) earl of
Hereford;
and in the right of his father
Ynyr ap Cadvarch,
lord of both
Maelors, Chirk, Whittington,
and
Oswestry, Ewias,
and
Urchenfield.
AFTER the Conquest, it was held by
Roger
earl of
Shrewsbury.
It is called in the Doomsday book
Wititone.
It had at that time eight
berewicks
or corn-farms; twelve
bovarii
or oxstalls; and a league of wood. The mill yielded five shillings, and the
Welsh
residents there paid twenty shillings.
ON the forfeiture of the cruel
Robert
earl of
Shrewsbury,
it was bestowed on
William,
a sister's son of
Pain Peverel,
lord of
Whittington;
and by the marriage of his second daughter
Mellet,
with
Guarine de Mets,
a noble
Lorrainer,
it became his property, about the year 1083, The deeds of arms, and feats of chivalry, made their progeny the admiration of the times, and the subject of high-flown romance.
Guarine,
then lord of
Abberbury,
and sheriff of the county, hears of the resolution of
Mellet
to marry no one but the knight of most distinguished prowess. The emulous youths were to assemble at
Peverel
's place, or the castle in the
Peak,
there to approve their worth. Our knight appears among the rest, with his
sylver shelde, and a proude pecok upon his beualme creste;
overthrows his rivals; carries off the fair prize; and receives the lordship of
Whittington
as her dower. His posterity assumed the name of
Fitz-warine;
continued lords of this place for near four hundred years; and every heir, for nine descents, preserved the Christian name of
Fulk.
THIS warlike race, and their warlike neighbors the
Welssh,
had perpetual feuds: their spirits were too congenial to enjoy peace.
Guarine
and the prince of
Wales
instantly attacked each other. The son of
Conan
had the advantage
Dugdale Baron.
i. 4431.
, and carried destruction through all the borders.
Guarine
died in the reign of
and left behind him a son, the first
Fulk Fitz-warine,
one of the great glories of his race, who shone pre-eminent in the
line.
LOVE was the first inducement, in the days of chivalry, to great actions in youthful breasts.
Fulk
becomes enamour
with
Hawise,
the daughter of his guardian
Joos.
At her request he relieves the father from most eminent danger; and recent her hand in reward.
To him was entrusted by
Henry
I. the care of the march
about the year 1122; from which he was styled
Fulco
, or
the
lieutenant.
It was not long before he found employ for
sword. The brave
Gryffydd ap Conan
carried his arms
the borders; had a personal engagement with our hero;
ed a wound in his shoulder, and was obliged to seek safety flight; but the victor did not escape unhurt
Dugdale Baron. i. 443.
. In future enterprizes he was less fortunate: the
British
prince wrested from him the lordship and castle of
Whittington;
which, by a suceeding treaty with
Henry
II. in the second year of his reign
Owen Gwynedd
thought proper to retain; and
Fulk
was
pensated by a grant of the honor of
Alston
in
Gwyneddshire.
He died in an advanced age, and was buried at
Abberbury.
I MUST not forget, that it is related of this
Fulk,
that being at the play of chess with
John,
second son to
Henry
II. he received from him a blow with the board, which he returned with such violence, as almost to demolish the young prince.
THE succeeding
Fulk
did not degenerate from his ancestors. He rendered himself so renowned in the wars abroad, that a
French
romance was composed on the actions of himself and progenitors; and translated into
English,
under the title of the
Gestes of
GUARINE
and his sonnes
Much of it is preserved in the first volume of
Leland
's
Collectanea,
p. 230.
. It consists, as in the case of most writings of this nature, of a mixture of some truth with much fiction.
To him was restored the castle of
Whittington
and its dependencies, after satisfaction had been made by king
John
to
Wrenoc
and
Wennen,
the sons of
Meyric,
on whom the prince of
Wales
had bestowed it in the reign of
Henry
II.
Wrenoc
received certain lands in the neighborhood, which he was to hold by the service of being the king's
Latimer,
or interpreter, in these parts, between the
Welsh
and the
English
Blunt
's antient tenures, 17.
.
Fulk,
notwithstanding this, fell afterwards from his allegiance to
John;
and was excommunicated by name
Rymer.
for his defection from that monarch: but his sufferings were in the cause of liberty; for he was among the glorious band who obtained from
John
the charter so highly prized by every true
Briton.
IT appears that he did not neglect, in the following reign, to obtain a confirmation of these estates, and to secure them to all posterity. He obtained in 1219 from
Henry
III. a grant of
Whittington
to him and his heirs; for which he gave the king two hundred and sixty-two pounds, and two coursers. He also procured the liberty of a market here on a
Wednesday,
and a
fair on St.
Luke
's day; for which he presented his majesty with a palfrey.
FAIRS.
The first is lost. There are still considerable fairs or shews of cattle on the last
Thursdays
in
April, July,
and
September.
FROM another favor bestowed on him by the same monarch, in the year 1220, it appears, that probably the castle of
Whittington
had been dismantled by the
Welsh;
for
Henry
gives permission to this
Fulk
to fortify it. The memory of this is still preserved in a room in the gateway, by the figure of a knight on horseback coarsely painted on the wall, with the following lines, now almost obliterated, placed beneath:
This was Sir
Foulk Fitz-warren,
late a great and valiant knight,
Who kept the
Britons
still in awe, and oftimes put to flight.
He of this castle owner was, and held it by command
Of
Henry,
late surnamed the third, then king of all this land.
His grandfather, a
Lorrainer,
by fame was much befriended,
Who
Peverley
's daur took to wife, from this
Foul
descended.
His antient feats of chivalry in annals are recorded,
Our king of
England
afterwards him baron made, and lorded.
DUGDALE informs us, that this baron was drowned in a river at the battle of
Lewes,
fighting in behalf of the king; but Mr.
Mytton
reasonably supposes, that it must have been his son who appeared in the field that day: for, from the time that this
Fulk
was appointed lieutenant of the marches by
Richard
I. to that of the battle, seventy-five years had elapsed; so it is probable that he was dead, or at lest unable to act the warrior. His son, therefore, must have been the person who fell in that fatal action; followed by a body of hardy soldiers, raised in these marches, inured to war by their frequent conflicts with the
Welsh.
IMMEDIATELY on the defeat, the rebel victor,
Montfort
earl of
Leicester,
appointed
Peter de Montfort,
a creature of his own, governor of this castle; and soon after, making use of the captive monarch's power against himself, obliged him
Rymer, i. 814.
to resign to
Llewelyn ap Gryffydd
prince of
Wales,
the hundred of
Ellesmere,
several of the border castles, and among others that of
Whittington
and its appertenances. This writ was dated from
Hereford, June
22d 1265.
Henry
also ceded to him the sovereignty of
Wales,
and homage of all the
Welsh
barons, and the lord of
Whittington.
These grants were afterwards confirmed to him by
Henry,
with the homage of the neighboring counties (which were usually paid to princes ancestors) in consideration of 30,000 marks paid by
Llewelyn.
IN 1281,
Fulk
attended
Edward
I. in his expedition against the
Welsh;
and was rewarded by the grant of free-warren on his lands in this manor.
IN 1300, he had a feud with his potent neighbor
Richard
earl of
Arundel;
but it was prevented by the interference of the king.
HE died in the reign of
Edward
II. His son was at that time in
France,
in his majesty's service; whose lady,
Alionora,
had livery of the manor till her husband could return to do homage.
IN 1329, or the 3d of
Edward
III. the new earl was accused by
Edmund
earl of
Kent,
uncle to the king, of raising seditious reports, that
Edward
II. was still alive; and endeavouring to excite a rebellion. For this offence his castle of
Whittington
was seized; but, by the intercession of his peers, restored to him the following year.
IN the insurrection of
Owen Glyndwr,
the vassals favored his cause: but their lord obtained a pardon for them from
Henry
IV.
IN 1420, the 8th of
Henry
V. this illustrious race became extinct in the male line; the last
Fulk
dying in his non-age, leaving
Elizabeth,
his only sister, heiress to his estates. She married
Richard Haukford
Esq
who dying in 1430, the 9th of
Henry
VI. left an only daughter
Thomasine.
She married Sir
William Bourchier,
created, on that account, lord
Fitz-warine.
A descendant of his, John earl of Bath, exchanged this manor with
Henry
VIII. for other lands.
Edward
VI. granted it to
Henry Grey
duke of
Suffolk:
and
Mary,
on his attainder, bestowed it on
Henry
last earl of
Arundel
of the name of
Fitz-alan.
It was by him mortgaged to one
William Albany,
and other citizens of
London.
The last released their title to
Albany,
who foreclosed the estate. His great grandaughter, and sole heiress, married
Thomas Lloyd
of
Aston,
Esq
in this county.
THE castle stands on a flat: the gateway,
CASTLE.
and the ruins of two vast round towers, with cruciform slips by way of windows, still remain; and the bare vestiges of two others may yet be traced. It had been surrounded by a moat, and several vast ditches, which comprehended several other works. The moat was filled by a rivulet that rises near
Pentre Pant,
in the parish of
Selatyn.
On entering this parish, it is lost for near a mile, and emerges in the fields on the back of the castle.
IT is probable, that this was a place of defence from the time of its earliest possessors. No place on the borders of unfriendly nations could possibly remain unfortified; but the architect of the castle whose ruins we now contemplate, was certainly the great
Fitz-warine,
granson of Guarine, founder of the family. These were among the greatest of the barons called
Lord marchers of Wales;
of whose origin an ample account will be given in the appendix.
THE steward of the manor holds annually a court-leet and court-baron in a room in the castle;
STEWARD.
to which the inhabitants are summoned, and fined one penny each for non-attendance. Chief-rents are payed to the lord; and a heriot of the best beast is clamed at the death of most of the freeholders within the lordship.
THE church,
CHURCH.
dedicated to St.
John
the
Baptist,
is a rectory, valued in the king's books at 25
l.
4
s.
It is a small building, supposed to have been originally designed as the chapel to the castle, and made out of the refuse materials of that fortress by its founder. According to the tradition of the place, he was buried in the porch, it being an act of devotion, in those days, for all persons, on their entrance into churches or religious houses, to pray for the souls of the founders and benefactors.
Fulk Fitz-warine,
seventh of the name, who had the greatest revenue of any of the family, by will, dated the 15th of
Richard
II. directed that his body should be buried in the chancel. The largest part of his estates were in other counties; but he gave this place the preference, as the antient seat of the family.
IN the year 1630, a commission was issued from the council in the marches of
Wales,
to
John Trevor
and
Richard Lloyd,
gentlemen, to make a terrier of the glebe-land, and to return an inventory of the furniture belonging to it; among which were found three pair of armour, furnished with two pikes and two head-pieces. These seem to have been designed for the use of the rector, for the defence of the castle, in case of any sudden inroad of the
Welsh.
AFTER leaving the village, in the road towards
Oswestry,
I observed on the right
Tre-newydd,
a seat of
Watkin Williams
Esq
in right of his mother, heiress of the place. Her granfather,
Edward Lloyd
Esq
who died in 1715, was eminent for his learning, and had prepared materials for the history of this his native country. Continue my journey to OSWESTRY, a considerable town, about two miles distant from
Whittingtion;
OSWESTRY.
a place celebrated in
Saxon
history and legendary piety. On this spot, on
August
5th 642
Sax, Chron.
31.
, was fought the battle between the Christian
Oswald,
king of the
Northumbrians,
and the Pagan
Penda,
king of the
Mercians. Oswald
was defeated, and lost his life. The barbarian victor cut the body of the slain prince into pieces, and stuck them on stakes dispersed over the field, as so many trophies; or, according to the antient verses that relate the legend, his head and hands only were thus exposed:
Cujus et abscissum caput abscissosque lacertos,
Et tribus affixos palis pendere cruentos
Penda
jubet: per quod reliquis exempla relinquat
Terroris manefesta sui, Regemque beatum
Esse probet miserum: sed causam fallit utramque,
Ultor enim fratris minime timet
Oswius
illum
Immo timere facit. Nee rex miser, immo beatus
Est, qui fonte boni fruitur semel, et sine fine.
'Three crosses, rais'd at
Penda
's dire commands,
'Bore
Oswald
's royal head and mangled hands:
'To stand a sad example to the rest,
'And prove him wretched who is ever blest.
'Vain policy! for what the victor got
'Prov'd to the vanquish'd king the happier lot:
'For now the martyr'd saint in glory views
'How
Oswy
with success the war renews:
'And
Penda
scarcely can support his throne,
'Whilst
Oswald
wears a never-failing crown.'
IT is probable that the
Britons
bestowed on the spot where the battle was fought, the name of
Maes hîr,
or the
long field,
or combat, from the obstinacy of the conflict. The
Saxons,
for a considerable time, retained the name of the place where the action was fought, with the addition of their own vernacular word
feld,
or
selth,
a field; as
maserfeld, maserfelth,
and corruptly,
masafeld.
Campus
Mesafeld
sanctorum canduit
Ossa
Henry of Huntingd
n,
lib.
iii. p. 331.
.
The bones of saints at
Mesafeld
were bleach'd.
IN after-days, the name became entirely
Saxon;
and from the fate of the king was styled
Oswald's tree;
now
Oswestry;
and by the
Welsh
rendered
Croes-oswallt.
Before this event, and for a long space beyond, this tract was the property of the
Britons;
till it was. conquered by
Offa,
and brought within the verge of his famous ditch.
A PRINCE so dear to the church as
Oswald,
and so attached to the professors of the monastic life, received every posthumo
honor that they could bestow. He was raised to the rank of
saint; and his sanctity confirmed by numberless miracles.
reliques (which were removed the year following by
Osw
we
efficacious in all disorders incident to man or beast. The
spot on which his pious corpse had lain, imparted its virtue
the mere contact:
MIRACLE.
the horse of a traveller, wearied by exc
of labor, stopt here, lay down, and, rolling about in agony, luckily tumbled on the place where
Oswald
fell. No sooner had he touched the ground, than he sprung up in full vigor. His master, a man of great sagacity! marked the spot; mounted his nag, and soon reached his inn. There he found a young woman ill of the palsy. He told the adventure of his horse; persuaded her friends to try the same remedy; caused her to be transported there; and she instantly found the same benefit
B
de
Hist. Eccles. lib. iii. c. 9, 10, 11, 12, 13. are all replete with
of this kind.
.
A CHURCH arose on the place of martyrdom,
CHURCH.
dedicated to the saint. A monastery was founded, which bore the name of
Blan
-minster, Candida ecclesia album monasterium,
and
White-minster.
It is very singular, that no evidences exist, either of the time of the foundation or of the dissolution. The last must have happened in
Saxon
days; for, immediately after the Conquest, the church of St.
Oswald
was bestowed on the abby of
Shrewsbury.
Bishop
Tanner
doubts whether there ever was a monastery here
Monasticon,
445.
: but the authority of
Leland
puts this much out of the question—that there once stood here some sort of religious foundation; for he expressly says, that the cloisters, with tombs of the monks, remained in the memory of man
Itin.
v. 39.
. I am inclined to think it to have been collegiate; a species of establishment very frequent in places of martyrdoms or of assassinations, reverential or expiatory, according to the nature of the event. Something of this kind existed here toward the
end of the reign of
Henry
II; for
Reinerus
bishop of St.
(who had a house near the place) alienated all the tythes of
and corn of this church and its chapels. These served to maintain twelve priests; but
Re
er
bestowed the revenues on the monks of
Shrewshury;
and by the papal authority expelled the antient seculars
Powel
's note on
G
ald.
Ca
br, Itin, 877. Goodwin de.Praesul. Angl. 657.
. I must remark, that most of them had lawful wives; for the
Welsh
clergy, for a long time, resisted the imposition of the church of
Rome
in the article of celibacy, as well as several others.
GIRALDUS CAMBRENSIS attended the archbishop of
Cantenbury
to this place, in order to incite people to take arms for the purposed
Crusade.
It is singular, that he mentions as little of
G
rala. Ca
.
.
as he does of
.
He says he went from
Chester
towards
Album Monasterium,
where he was met by
Gryffydd ap Med
,
and
,
and several other
Welshmen
of distinction. Some undertook the romantic war; and, according to custom, were make
with the sign of the cross by
Rei
er.
When that business
over, they entered the town. of
, and were most magnificently entertained by the young earl of earl of
Arunded,
after the
fashion; which
G
raldus
seems to think savored too much of laxury.
SOME writers entertain doubts, whether this place was the
Al
m Monasterium
visited by
Giraldus;
and endeavor to fix it
W
lu
ch; but those may be easily removed; when it is certain that it was in
Pow
s
and,
a pretension that the other has
clame to: besides, Osw
s
try and
are mentioned as distinct places in the Rot
Wa
ae.
.
R
h,
the third earl
Ch
ter,
took the
of
Blo
,
from being born at the place; and
John
dates from
Alla
Monosterium.
In 12
1, a grant of certain lands, which he had made to the
ee of St.
A
G
dwi
's catalogue of
English
bishops
1015.
.
AT Present,
OSWALD'S WELL.
there is not a relique of any old building excepting of the ruins of a chapel over a remarkably fine
that still bears the name of the saint: and near the church is
spot moated round, whose house is now quite unknown.
I MUST add,
CAE-NET.
that near the town is a field called
Cae-nes,
or
Heaven-field,
which some have imagined to have been the place of his martyrdom. His life and death hath given two places that title; for the
Saxon Heafenseld
in
Northumberland
has the same meaning; and received it on account of the victory he obtained there over the
Cumbrian
prince;
Oswald
attributing his success solely to the intervention of Heaven.
THE present church is of no great antiquity;
CHURCH.
is spacious, and has a handsome plain tower. We learn from a monument in memory of Mr.
Hugh Y
,
that the old church was demolished in 1616. I suppose that the present immediately rose on the ruins. It stands quite out of the town, in a suburb without the
New-gate;
is a vicarage, under the patronage of the earl of
Powys,
who is also lord of this extensive manor. Part of this parish still use the
Welsh
language; for which reason, divine service is in a certain proportion read by the minister.
THE town was fortified with a wall and four gates.
WALLS AND GATES
That called the
Black-gate
is demolished; the
New-gate,
the
Willow-gate,
and the
Beatrice-gate,
still remain. The last is a handsome building, with a guard-room on both sides; and over it the arms of the
-ala
s,
a lion rampant. It probably was built by
Thomas
earl of
Arundel,
in the beginning of the reign of
Henry
IV. who bestowed the name on it in honor of his wife
Beatrix,
natural daughter to the king of
Portugal.
OVER the
New-gate
is the figure of a horse in full speed, with an oaken bough in his mouth. There is a conjecture, but I will not pretend to say how well warranted, that it alluded to the g
ous breed of horses which
Po
ysland
of which this was part was
for,
ived from fome tine
Spanish
stallions, intro
by
word B
sme
earl of
ews
ury.
were beg
n in the year 1277, or the sixth or
Edward
I. who granted a
rage or
o
l on the inhabitants of the county,
for six years; in which time it may be supposed they
. They were about a mile in compass, and had
on the outsde, capable of being filled with water from the neighboring
l
ts.
THERE are only a few fragments of the castle remaining.
CASTLE.
It stood on an artificial mount, with a great foss, extending to the
Beatrice-gate
on one side, and on the other to the
Willow
-gate. Our
Welsh
historians attribute the foundation to
Mad
ap Mer
ap B
yn
prince of Pow
s, in 1148
p
,
201.
.
Leland
Itin.
v. 39.
gives some color to this, by sayins, that in his time there was a tower called
; but the
L
sh
records place it in possession of A
a noble
N
an,
who received it immediately from
the Conqueror, on his accession. This
A
n
was the stock of the
Fitz-ala
earls of
A
n
el;
a potent race, that flourished (with fewer checks than usual with greatness) for near five hundred years.
SIR WILLIAM DU
LE
Baronage.
says, that there was a castle at
at the time of the Conquest; which I think pre
e. The artificial mount on which it was placed indica
to have been earlier than the
N
rman aer
.
The
Brit
ns
and the
gave their fortresses this species of elevation. The
Norm
n
bulk on the f
m and natural so
l or rock; but often made use of these mounts, wnich they found to have been the site of a
Saxon
castle. I believe this to have been the case with that in question. A
Fitz-alan
repaired or re-built, and added to that which he met with here: a tower also (as is not unfrequent) might receive th
name of
M
dor,
complimentary either to the son of Meredydd, or some other great man of the same title.
THIS castle was the residence of the
Norm
n
owners, and had been completely finished. I had its
or yard, which comprehended that part or the town still called the
Bail
y
head: its
Barbican
or outer-gate, where the maimed and blind were commonly relieved; a mount on the outside of the great ditch was the site of this building; and, from the use, bears to this day the name of
Cripple-gate.
Lastly, it had its chapel, placed at a little distance, dedicated to St.
Nicholas,
and was in the gift of the earls of
Arundel.
I WILL not tire the reader with a dry list of successors to this place, or the guardians of such who were under age. I will only observe, that after the execution of
Edmund
earl of
Aru
del,
on the reign of
Edward
II. his queen, to shew her predilection to her gentle
Mortimer,
obtained the possession of it for that favorite.
THE town was favored with considerable priveleges from its
als. Its first charter, from its brevity called by the
Welsh
Gw
a,
or the short charter
Harl
ian
MSS. No 1881. 6.
, was granted by
William
earl
, in the reign of
Henry
II.
SHARTA
G
T
.
I must observe here, that
parted to the burgesses the same priveleges with
of
ury.
THE same
William,
in a scutage made in kins;
John
's ti
was not to do ward at any place but
Blanc-minster,
for the knights fees held by him: nor to furnish more than ten soldier
, horse, or foot, within the county of
Salop;
nor more than five out of it.
HIS son
John
took part with the barons against king
J
who in revenge marched to
Oswestry
in 1216
Wy
's Hist.
Wales,
42.
, and reduced the town to ashes. On the death of that prince, he was reconciled to his successor,
Henry
III.
FAIR.
and in 1227, obtained for his m
nor of
Blanc-minster
the grant of a fair, upon the eve, the day, and the day after the feast of St.
Andrew.
He also make the bailliffs clerks of the market, with power to imprison
persons who used fraudulent ways in buying or selling;
which they payed the consideration of twenty marks. These people frequently abused their power: it is therefore no wonder that so many of the grievances which the
Welsh
so much complained of to
Edward
I. should originate from this place
Powel,
362.
.
IN 1233, this unfortunate town experienced a second destruction, being again burnt by
Llewelyn ap J
rwerth
prince of
Wales
Idem, 288.
. Provision was now made against future insults; for, in the next reign, that of
Edward
I. the town was surrounded with walls. This happened when that politic monarch meditated the conq
of
Wales;
therefore thought proper to secure this town,
of the keys of the country, with proper defence.
IN 1
18, the reign of his unfortunate son,
Edmund
earl of
Arundel
was commanded to raise two hundred foot-
diers out of
Colne
and this neighborhood, to repel the
Scots.
IN 1331,
Edward
III. granted another fair to this town; and in 1346, directed
Edmund Fitz-alan
to raise two hundred of his vassals from
Clun
and
Oswestry,
to attend him in the
French
wars.
IN 1397,
Richard
earl of
Arundel
being attainted and executed, the king,
Richard
II. seized all his lands and manors, and granted them to
William le Serope
earl of
Wiltshire,
one of his favorites.
FIRST ROYAL CHARTER.
He also granted to the town the first royal charter, incorporating it by the name of the bailiffs and burgesses of OSWESTRY
infra Palatinatum
CESTRIAE
in marchid inter
ANGLIAM
t
WALLIAM. This was also founded upon the conssitution of that of
Shrewsbury.
They were exempted throughout the kingdom (the liberty of the city of
London
excepted)
de Theolonio, Lastugie, Passagio, Pontagio, Stallagio de L
ne, et de Danegeldis, et S
y
it, et omnibus allis consuetudinibus et exactionibus.
ITS new lord, the earl of
Wiltshire,
fell a victim to the popular fury,
THOMAS EARL OF ARUNDEL.
on the deposal of his royal master; and
Thomas
the son of the attainted earl, restored in blood. He proved a great benefactor to the corporation: he gave it a release, in 1406, from a hundred pounds that they were indebted to him, in consideration of the distresses the town suffered during the insurrection of
Glyndwr.
He also obtained a pardon from the king for his vassals in
Chirk,
r
field,
and this manor, for the share they took in that commotion.
IN the same year with the release, he granted a most extensive charter to the town, containing many matters that shew the customs of the times; and merits, on that account, a detail of some of the particulars. To began with a most essential one;
HIS CHARTER.
Neither the lord or his heirs should confiscate or seize the effects of persons dying with or without will in the corporation: THAT no burgess should be compelled to be the
o
d's receiver-general; but only collector of the issues arising within the borough: THAT the burgesses should be discharged from all fees demanded by the constable of the castle, or any
his menial servants, for any felonies or trespasses committed out of the same liberties, when brought to the prison of the castle; saving, that the constable might receive one penny a
his own election, from every mansion-house in the town; and a farthing of every cottage on the feast of St.
Stephen
annually THAT the burgesses should be freed for the future from
excise of ale brewed and sold in the town, which had been hitherto payable, at the rate of seven pence for every
Br
cervi
exposed to sale: THAT they were to be freed from the duty of
Amobr
or
Lyrewite
Vide page 221.
: THAT whoever lived in the house of a burgess, and happened to die there, the burgess was to have a herlot after his decease; in the same manner as the
,
or freeholders residing on the lands of the lord in the hundred of
Oswestry:
THAT no
Shrewsbury
ale should be sold in the town without license, while any ale brewed in the town was to be had, under the penalty of six shillings and eight pence: THAT none of the inhabitants of the lord
hips of
Oswestry, Mel
erl
y, Kinards
ey, Egerley, Ruyton
and the eleven towns
Old Ruyton, Cotton, Shelvoke, Shottaton, Wykey, Eardeston, Tedsmere, Rednall, Haughton, Sutton,
and
Felton;
which form a manor in
Oswestry
hundred.
, should drive or carry any cattle, corn, or victuals, or other wares, to any foreign fair or market, before the same had been first exposed to sale in the town of
Oswestry,
under the penalty of six shillings and eight pence: THAT none of the lord's tenants should be compelled to pay the
redditus advocarii
for the security of the cas;tle,
&c. &c.
UNTIL the time of the above-mentioned charter,
GUARD AT THE GATES.
the lord's
Welsh
tenants of the hundred of
Oswestry
were accustomed by their tenure to keep watch and ward for three days and three nights at the four gates of the town, during the fairs of St.
Andrew
and St.
Oswald,
with a certain number of men called
Kaies
but these treacherously, with others, ravaged and plundered the place. On this the tenants were compelled to pay a sum of money as wages to a sufficient number of
Englishmen,
as the burgesses should think convenient, for the custody of the four gates; and the
Welshmen
were for ever to be discharged from that duty.
THE vassals of the earls of
Arundel
in these parts were of a mixed nature; either descendants of the
Norman
followers of their ancestor
Alan,
or of the native
Welsh,
who were most numerous, and bore an hereditary dislike to their co-tenants of foreign stock. The
welsh
part was called
walcheria,
and lay in the upper part of the manor.
THIS charter of earl
Thomas
was confirmed by his several successors, to the time of
Henry
VIII.
Charles
II. granted another; in which a mayor, twelve aldermen, fifteen common-council, a high-steward, and recorder, compose the body corporate.
ABOUT a mile from
Oswestry,
in the parish of
Sellatyn,
lies a fine military post, on an insulated eminence of an oblong form, which has been fortified with much art. The top is an extensive area, containing fifteen acres, three roods, and eight perches, of fertile ground, surrounded with two ramparts and fosses of great heighths and depths. At a distance from these, at the foot of the hill, is another deep foss, which surrounds the whole, and ends (as do the two others) at the two entrances; which are placed diagonally opposite to each other. On the slope of the hill, on both sides of one entrance, are a range of deep oblong trenches, running transversely between the second ditch and another, which seems to be designed for their immediate protection; for the first extends no farther than these trenches; the other, to no great distance beyond them.
THIS place is called
Old Oswerstry,
OLD OSWESTRY.
H
n Ddinas,
and antiently
Caer Ogyrfan,
from
Ogyrfan
a hero co-existent with
Arthur.
There is no certainty of the origin of it: some ascribe it to
Oswald
or to
Penda,
and imagine that it was possessed, before the battle of
Maserfeld,
by one of those princes. Others think it to have been the work of the antient
Britons;
to which opinion I incline. The strength, and the labor in forming it, evince that it was not a sudden operation, like that of a camp. Its construction, even to the oblong trenches, is
British;
for example, that of
Bryn y Clawddiau,
on the
Clwydian
hills, which divide
Flintshire
from the vale of
Clwyd,
is a similar work.
A GREAT dike and foss,
WAT'S DIKE.
called
Wat
's, is continued from each side of this post. This work is little known, notwithstanding it is equal in depth, though not in extent, to that of
Offa.
We shall here trace the course of each.
Wat
's can only be discovered on the southern part to
Maeshury
mill, in
Oswestry
parish, where it is lost in a morassy ground: from thence it takes a northern direction to
Hen-ddinas,
and by
Pentre'r Clawdd
to
Gobowen,
the site of a small fort, in the parish of
Whittington:
then crosses
Prys Henlle
common, into the parish of St.
Martin,
near which is a mount called
Bryn y Castell:
crosses the
Ceiriog
between
Brynkinallt
and
Pont y Blew
forge, and the DEE below
Nant y Bela;
from whence it passes through
Wynn-stay
park, by another
Pentre'r Clawdd,
or township on the ditch, to
Erddig,
the seat of
Philip Yorke
Esq
where there was another strong fort on its course: from
Erddig
it goes above
Wrexham,
near
Melin Puleston,
by
Dolydd, Maesgwyn, Rhos-ddu, Croes-oneiras,
Mr.
Shakerley
's
Gwersyllt;
crosses the
Alun,
and through the township of
Llai,
to
Rhydin,
in the county of FLINT; above which is
Caer-estyn,
a
British
post: from hence it runs by
Hope
church, along the side of
Molesdale,
which it quits towards the lower part, and turns to
Mynydd Sychdyn, Monachlog
near
Northop,
by
Northop
mills,
Bryn▪ moel, Coed y Llys, Nant y Flint, Cefn y Coed,
through the
Strand fields,
near
Holywell,
to its termination below the abby of
Basingwerk.
I have been thus minute in giving its course, because it is so often confounded with OFFA'S ditch, which attends the former at unequal distances, from five hundred yards to three miles, till the latter is totally lost.
OFFA'S ditch extended from the river
Wye,
OFFA'S DIKE.
along the counties of
Hercford
and
Radnor,
into that of
Montgomery,
where I shall take it up at its entrance into NORTH WALES, at
Pwll y Piod,
an ale-house on the road between
Bishop's-castle
and
Newtown;
from thence passes northward, near
Mellington-hall,
near which is an
ncampment called
Caer-din,
by
Brompton
mill, where there is a mount;
Linor
park near
Montgomery, Forden
heath,
Nant-cribba,
at the foot of an antient fortress,
Layton-hall,
and
Buttington
church. Here it is lost for five miles; the channel of the
Severn.
probably serving for that space as a continuation of this famous boundary; which, just below the conflux of the
Bele
and the
Severn,
appears again, and passes by the churches of
Llandysi
and
Llanymynech,
to the edge of the vast precipitous limestone-rock in the last parish: from this place it runs by
Tref y Clawdd,
over the horse-course on
Cefn y Bwch,
above
Oswestry,
then above
Sellatyn;
from whence it descends to the
Ceiriog,
and thence to
Glyn,
where there is a large breach, supposed to be the place of interment of the
English
who fell in the battle of
Cregen,
hereafter to be mentioned: it then goes by
Chirk-castle;
and, below
Cefn y Wern,
crosses the
Dee,
and the
Rhiwabon.
road near
Plâas Madoc,
forms part of the turnpike-road to
Wrexham,
to
Pentre Bychan,
where there is a mount; then by
Plâs Bower
to
Adwy'r Clawdd,
near
Minera;
by
Brumbo,
crosses
Cegidog
river, and through a little valley on the south side of
Bryn Yorkyn
mountain to
Coed Talwrn
and
Cae-deon,
a farm near
Treyddin
chapel, in the parish of
Mold
(pointing towards the
Clwydian
hills); beyond which there can no farther traces be discovered.
No reason appears why its course was not continued from sea to sea. It seems probable that
Offa
imagined that the
Clwydian
hills, and the deep valley that lies on this side at their base, would serve as a continuance of his prohibitory line: he had carried his arms over most part of
Flintshire,
and vainly imagined, that his labors would restrain the
Cambrian
inroads in one part, and his orders prevent any incursions beyond these natural limits, which he had decreed should be the boundaries of his new conquests. The weakness of this great work appeared on the death of
Offa:
the
Welsh,
with irresistible fury, despised his toils, and carried their ravages far and wide on the
English
marches. Superior force often repelled our countrymen. Sanguinary laws were made by the victorious
Harold
against any that should transgress the limits prescribed by
Offa.
The
Welshman
that was found in arms on the
Saxon
side of the ditch, was to lose his right-hand
Leland Collect.
iii. 230.
Joannes Sarishuriensis,
as quoted by
Camden,
698.
.
IT is observable, that in all parts the ditch is on the
Welsh
side; and that there are numbers of small artificial mounts, the sites of small forts, in many places along its course. These were garrisoned, and seem intended for the same purposes as the towers in the famous
Chinese
wall, to watch the motions of their neighbors, and to repel the hostile incursions.
IT is remarkable, that
Wat
's dike should have been overlooked or confounded with that of
Offa,
by all writers, except by
Thomas Churchyard
the poet
Vide
Churchyard
's Worthines of
Wales,
originally printed in 1587; reprinted by
Thomas Evans
1776.
, who assigns the object of the work: that the space intervening between the two was free ground, where the
Britons
and
Saxons
might meet with safety for all commercial purposes.
From
Oswestry
I took the road to
Sellatyn,
SELLATYN.
a parish containing about six hundred inhabitants. Its register commences in 1557; was fortunately saved from the great wreck of such records by Mr.
Wilding,
an
Oliverian
rector in the civil wars. It appears from it, that the state of population in the first and the last twenty years was as follows:
 
First.
Last.
Encrease.
Baptisms,
258
410
152
Weddings,
29
98
69
Funerals,
189
257
68
THIS happy disproportion of encrease between births and burials, seems to arise from the hilly situation of the parish; which slopes down to the moory flats of those of
Oswestry
and
Whittington,
without partaking the lest of their nature. The improvements in agriculture contribute much to retain numbers of the inhabitants, by finding them a wholesome and innocent employ: the want of which exiles multitudes, in many places, to the vice and disease of great cities.
SIR
JOHN OWEN KNT .
THE name of the house was soon altered to one very nearly resembling the present. In 1218,
Henry
III. in an address to
Llewelyn
prince of
Wales,
informs him, that among others,
Bleddyn Filius Oeni de
PORKINTON
Rymer, i. 227
had performed to his majesty the service he owed.
I MUST now make a very long transition from this period to that which produced another distinguished personage of this family.
SIR JOHN OWEN.
Here is preserved the portrait of Sir
John Owen
knight, of
Clenneney
in
Caernarvonshire;
a gallant officer, and strenuous supporter of the cause of
Charles
I. He greatly signalized himself at the siege of
Bristol,
when it was taken by prince
Rupert,
and was desperately wounded in the attack. Congenial qualities recommended him to his highness; who, superseding the appointment of archbishop
Williams
to the government of
Conway
castle, in 1645, constituted Sir
John
commander in his place. This fortress was soon given up to general
Mytton,
by the contrivance of the prelate, and the power of his friends: and the knight retired to his seat in the distant parts of the county. In 1648, he rose in arms to make a last effort in behalf of his fallen master, probably in concert with the royalists in
Kent
and
Essex.
He was soon attacked by
William Lloyd,
sheriff of the county, whom he defeated, wounded, and made prisoner. He then laid siege to
Caernarvon;
but hearing that certain of the parlement forces, under the colonels
Carter
and
Twisleton,
were on their march to attack him, he hastened to meet them, and took the sheriff with him on a litter. He met with his enemies near
Llandegai:
a furious recontre ensued, in which Sir
John
had at first the advantage; but falling in with their reserve, fortune declared against him: in a personal contest with a captain
Taylor,
he was pulled off his horse, and made prisoner; and his troops, disheartened by the loss of their commander, took to flight. The sheriff died the same day. The victory was esteemed of that consequence, that captain
Taylor,
who was the messenger of the news to the parlement, received a reward of two hundred pounds out of Sir
John
's estate
Rushworth,
ii. part iv. 1146.
.
SIR JOHN was conveyed to
Windsor
castle, where he found four noblemen under confinement for the same cause. On the 10th of
November,
a vote past for his banishment, and that of the lords
Goring, Loughborough, Capel,
the earl of
Holland,
and major-general
Langhern
Whitelock,
348.
; but after the execution of their royal master, sanguinary measures took place. The duke of
Hamilton,
the earl of
Holland,
and the lords
Goring
and
Capel,
were put upon their trials. Sir
John
shewed a spirit worthy of his country. He told his judges, that
he was a plain gentleman of
Wales,
who had been always taught to obey the king; that he had served him honestly during the war; and, finding many honest men endeavored to raise forces, whereby he might get him out of prison, he did the like;
and concluded like a man who did not much care what they resolved concerning him. In the end he was condemned to lose his head; for which, with a humorous intrepidity, he made the court a low reverence, and gave his humble thanks. A by-stander asked what he meant: he replied aloud,
It was a great honour to a poor gentleman of
Wales
to lose his head with such noble lords; for by G—, he was afraid they would have hanged him.
SIR JOHN, by mere good-fortune, was disappointed of the honor he was flattered with; being, as his epitaph says,
Famae plus quam vitae sollicito.
He neither solicited for a pardon, nor was any petition offered to parlement in his favor; which was strongly importuned in behalf of his fellow-prisoners.
Ireton
proved his advocate, and told the house,
That there was one person for whom no one spoke a word; and therefore requested, that he might be saved by the sole motive and goodness of the house.
In consequence, mercy was extended to him; and, after a few months imprisonment, he was, on his petition, set at liberty. He retired again into his country, where he died in 1666; and was interred in the church of
Penmorva
in
Caernarvonshire,
where a small monument preserves the following epitaph.
M. S. JOHANNIS OWEN de
Clenneney
in Co.
Carnarvon
militis, viri in patriam amoris ardentissimi:
in regem (beatissimum martyrem CAROLUM Ium )
indubitatae fidelitatis clari;
qui ad sacrosanctam majestatem a perduellionum
rabie eripiendam, summa pericula, lubentissè obivit,
Hostium copias non semel fudit, ac fregit;
religionem vindicavit:
Donec, infelici sorte in perditissimorum hominum manus,
Regali jam sanguine imbutas,
inciderit Dux praestantissimus:
Unde supplex sese obsessum redimerat
nisi quod Heroi consummatissimo
Famae plus, quam vitae sollicito, tale
displicuit.
collo igitur imperterrite oblato,
securis aciem retudit divina vis;
volucrisque fati tardavit alas, donec senex laetissimus
CAROLUM 2dum et sibi et suis restitutum viderat.
Ao . Doni . 1666. et Aetatis suae 66. placidé expiravit.
FROM
Porkington,
SELLATYN CHURCH.
I ascended to the parish-church. The legend of the foundation is, that a noble
Briton
being engaged in the chace, found in a thicket on this spot a white hind; which determined him (after the example of
Ethelred
king of the
Mercians,
in the instance of St.
John
's church
Chester
) to dedicate it to sacred uses. He accordingly translated to this place the antient church, which, tradition says, stood before on a spot still called
Bryn hên Eglwys,
or the hill of the old church.
THAT high-church meteor,
DOCTOR SACHEVEREL.
that party-tool, Doctor
Sacheverel,
was, in 1709, presented to this living; not so much on account of its value, as to give him a pretence of making a progress through a long extent of the kingdom; and of trying the inclinations of the people in the rich and populous counties he was to pass through. He was met on the confines of this by 5000 horsemen, among which were the first fortunes of
Shropshire.
He met with respect, in every town, little short of adoration. The crowd in
Oswestry
was so great, that a good old woman could see only a small part of the holy man; yet consoled herself with having a sight of his ever-blessed wig as he rode along.
FROM hence I hastened towards
Chirk
castle, keeping a lower road between the two dikes. On approaching the village of
Chirk,
is a very deep valley, consisting of fertile meadows, watered by the brook
Ceiriog,
and finely bounded by lofty wooded banks. On the very verge of that next to
Chirk,
stands an artificial mount; and, I think, the vestige of another, on the other side of the road which goes between them. These were exploratory, and probably designed also for defence; and might have had on them a small fort for the protection of the pass. I imagine these mounts to have been
Saxon,
and coeval with the great labor of
Offa,
which runs at a small distance from them.
IN this deep valley,
BATTLE OF CROGEN.
which winds along the foot of the vast
Berwyn
mountains, was a bloody conflict between part of the forces of
Henry
II. and the
Welsh,
in 1165.
Henry
had determined once more to attempt the subjection of
Wales,
and to revenge the ravages carried through the borders by its gallant prince
Owen Gwynedd;
for that end, he assembled a vast army at
Oswestry. Owen,
on the contrary, collected all his chieftains, with their dependants, at
Corwen.
The king, hearing that his antagonist
so near, resolved to bring the matter to a speedy decision. He marched towards him; and in this valley, finding himself intangled in impenetrable woods, and recollecting his illfortune among the forests of
Eulo,
directed his vanguard to make the passage clear, by cutting down the trees, in order to secure himself from ambuscade. The pikemen, and flower of his army, were posted to cover the workmen. The spirit of the common soldiers of the
Welsh
army grew indignant at this attempt; and, without the knowlege of their officers, fell with unspeakable fury on these troops. The contest was violent; numbers of brave men perished; in the end, the
Welsh
retired to
Corwen. Henry
gained the summit of the
Berwyn;
but was so distressed by dreadful rains, and by the activity and prudence of
Owen,
who cut him off from all supplies, that he was obliged to return ingloriously, with great loss of men and equipage
Powel,
221.
.
THIS conflict is sometimes called the battle of
Corwen;
but with more propriety that of
Crogen:
for it happened beneath
Castelh Crogen,
the present
Chirk
castle; and the place is still called
Adwy'r Beddau,
or the
pass of the graves
of the men who were slain here.
THE church of
Chirk
is dedicated to St.
Mary;
CHURCH OF CHIRK.
and was formerly an impropriation belonging to the abby of
Valle Crucis.
Within is a profusion of marble, cut into human forms, memorial of the later lords of the place, or their ladies.
MONUMENTS.
The best is a bust of Sir
Thomas Middleton,
with a peaked beard, long hair; armed: and by him is another of his lady, a
Napier
of
.
Sir
Thomas
was a successful and active commander on the side of the parlement during the civil wars. Towards the end of his life, he found that he had undesignedly established a more intolerable tyranny than that which he had formerly opposed. In 1659, he took arms, in conjunction with Sir
George Booth,
in order to restore the antient constitution. Sir
George
was defeated by the vigilant
Lambert;
and Sir
Thomas
forced to take refuge in his castle, where, after two or three days shew of defence, he was constrained to surrender on such conditions as the conqueror was pleased to dictate.
THE other monuments are composed of large and very ill-executed figures of lady
Middleton,
wife to Sir
Thomas Middleton
baronet, son of the former. She was daughter of Sir
Thomas Willraham
of
Woodhey;
and died at the early age of twenty-two, in the year 1675.
SIR RICHARD MIDDLETON, and his lady,
Frances
daughter of Sir
Thomas Whitmore
of
Buildas.
He died in 1716; she in 1694. At their feet lies their son Sir
William,
who survived his father only two years, dying at the age of twenty-four.
ON a small mural monument, is an elegant epitaph on Doctor
Walter Balcanqual,
a
Scotch
divine of distinguished character. In 1617, he was appointed master of the
Savoy
hospital, which he soon resigned in favor of the able but desultory
Marc Antonio di Dominis,
archbishop of
Spalato,
in reward for his conversion to Protestantism. In 1618, he was sent to represent his country in the famous synod of
Dort.
He was promoted to the deanery of
Rochester;
and, in 1639, to that of
Durham;
but by his great loyalty, having rendered himself hated by his countrymen, was, in 1645, obliged to take refuge in
Chirk castle;
but, sinking under the fatigue of the journey, and severity of the weather, died on
Christmas-day.
The epitaph was composed by Dr.
Pearson
bishop of
Chester,
at the request of Sir
Thomas Middleton,
by whom the monument was erected.
THE castle lies about a mile from the village,
CASTLE.
in the course of
Offa
's dike, on the summit of a lofty hill, projecting from the great mass of the
Berwyn
mountains. Before the foundation of the present castle, stood another, called
Castell Crogen;
and the territory around bore the name of
Tref y Waun,
the property of the lords of
Dinas Brân.
It continued in their possession till the death of
Gryffydd ap Madoc,
a strenuous partizan of
Henry
III. and
Edward
I.
Edward,
on the decease of
Gryffydd,
rewarded two of his favorites with the guardianship of the two eldest-sons of
Gryffydd: Madoc,
to
John
earl
Warren;
and
Llewelyn
to
Roger Mortimer,
son of
Roger
baron of
Wigmore:
who, as before related, quickly dispatched the unhappy youths, and possessed themselves of their fortunes. Earl
Warren
seized on the lordships of
Bromfield
and
Yale; Mortimer
on those of the present
Chirk
and
Nan-heudwy.
He became the founder of the castle. It continued in his family but a short time, being sold by his grandson
John,
to
Richard Fitz-alan
earl of
Arundel.
The
Fitz-alans
possessed it for three generations; after which it passed to
Thomas Mowbray
duke of
Norfolk,
and justice of
North Wales, Chester,
and
Flint,
in right of his wife
Elizabeth,
elder sister to
Thomas
earl of
Arundel.
On
CHIRK CASTLE.
the disgrace and exile of
Mowbray,
in 1397, it probably was resumed by the crown; and granted again to
William Beauchamp
lord of
Abergavenny,
who married the other sister; and by the marriage of his grand-daughter, sole heiress of
Richard Beauchamp
earl of
Worcester,
with
Edward Nevil
(afterwards lord
Abergavenny
) was conveyed into that family, in the reign of
Henry
VI
Powel
213.
.
THE next possessor which occurs to me, is the unfortunate Sir
William Stanley,
who, as
Leland
says, 'repayred it welle.' After his ungrateful execution, it became forfeited to his rapacious master; and, as I conjecture, was bestowed, in 1534, along with
Holt Castle
(another of Sir
William
's castles) by
Henry
VIII. on his natural son
Henry Fitz-roy
duke of
Richmond
and Somerset
King
's Vale-royal, 195.
. By his early death, it reverted again to the crown.
IN the following reign, I imagine it to have been granted to
Thomas
lord
Seymour,
brother to the protector
Somerset;
for I find him in possession of
Holt
Dugdale Baron.
ii. 368.
, to which it was an appendage.
ELIZABETH granted it, with the same lordships, to her worthless favorite
Dudley
earl of
Leicester.
On his death,
Chirk Castle
became the property of lord St.
John
of
Bletso;
whose son, in 1595, sold it to Sir
Thomas Middleton
knight, mayor of
London
in 1614.
THIS exalted pile has much to boast of in its vast view into seventeen counties; a most elegant and varied extent! The castle is square, and has five rounders uncommonly clumsy and heavy. Lord
Clarendon
and others speak of the entire demolition of this fortress after its reddition to
Lambert.
Only one side, with three towers, were pulled down, which Sir
Thomas Middleton
lived to re-build in one year.
THE chief apartments are a saloon, fifty-six feet by twenty-seven; and a drawing-room within: a gallery, a hundred feet by twenty-two, filled with portraits. Among them are those of the duke of
Ormond,
and his son lord
Ossory;
the most virtuous characters, and the greatest ornaments of the vicious age of
Charles
II. admired, revered, unimitated.
Ossory
died before his father; who bore his loss with the firmness of a
Roman,
founded on the certain hopes of a Christian. I can scarcely say whether he passed a finer eulogy on his son, or satyr on the times, by declaring,
he would not change his dead son for any living one in
EUROPE.
LORD keeper Sir
Orlando Bridgeman,
keeper of the great seals, in his robes, and with lank hair. He presided over two courts of justice with the most amiable character; and lost the seals for his refusal, in 1672, to affix them to the king's insidious declaration of liberty of conscience.
LADY BRIDGEMAN, second wife to Sir
Orlando,
and mother to
Charlotte
wife to Sir
Thomas Middleton.
SIR THOMAS MIDDLETON in armour; grey-beard, and long black hair. The same gentleman who is mentioned in the account of the tombs.
HIS daughter, countess of
Warwick,
dowager to
Edward Rich
earl of
Warwick,
and afterwards wife to Mr.
Addison,
and the reputed cause of his intemperance.
THE usual appertenance to antient castles, the dungeon, must not be forgotten. The descent is by forty-two steps; but, according to the laudable usage of its present lord, the captives endure but a short and easy confinement; and even that passes imperceptibly, amidst the good cheer and generous liquors bestowed on them by the kind warder, to whose custody they are committed.
RE-PASSING through the castle-gate,
BARBAROUS CUSTOM.
I recollect a barbarous privelege, retained longer in this country than in any other part of
Britain,
that of exempting from capital punishment even the most atrocious assassin, by payment of a certain fine. This was practised by the lord marchers of these parts in the fifteenth century; and continued in
Mowddwy
in
Merionethshire
till it was abolished in the 27th of
Henry
VIII
Gwydir
family, 107.
.
THIS custom was derived from the antient
Germans,
who accepted a fine of cattle as a compensation for murder; which satisfied the relations, and was not detrimental to the public, which could not fail being injured by the extension of private revenge
Tacitus
de mor. Germ. c. z.
.
THE
Saxons
continued this custom under the name of
Were-geld;
WERE-GELD.
and accordingly set a price on every rank, from the king to the peasant
Wilkin's Leges Sax. 71.
. The head of the king was valued at thirty thousand
thrymses,
or 4,500
l.
; half to be paid to his relations, and half to the kingdom for the loss it had sustained: that of a countryman was esteemed at two hundred and sixty-six, or 39
l.
18
s.
THE
Were-geld
of a
Welshman
was very low; for, unless he had property enough to be taxed for the king's use, his life was not reckoned of higher price than seventy
thrymses,
or ten guineas. The money or fine was distributed, as in the time of the antient
Germans,
among the relations of the deceased; and oftentimes part went to the lord of the soil, as compensation for his loss.
THE
Welsh
had in like manner their
Galanas
and
Gwerth,
GWERTH.
of the same nature with the former; but our fine was usually paid in cattle, the wealth of the country.
BUT the
Gwerth
was not only a compensation for murder or homicide; but for all species of injuries. To cuckold the prince was expiated at a very high rate
Leges Wallica,
199.
; the offender was fined in a gold cup and cover, as broad as his majesty's face, and as thick as a ploughman's nail who had ploughed nine years; and a rod of gold as tall as the king, and as thick as his little finger; a hundred cows for every
cantref
he ruled over, with a white bull with different colored ears to every hundred cows.
THE recompence to a virgin who had been seduced is very singular: on complaint made that she was deserted by her lover, it was ordered by the court, that she was to lay hold of the tail of a bull three years old, introduced through a wicker-door, and shaven, and well-greased. Two men were to goad the beast: if she could by dint of strength retain the bull, she was to have it by way of satisfaction; if not, she got nothing but the grease that remained in her hands
The same, 82.
. I fear by this, and other penalties for the same offence, that the crime was not held by my countrymen to be of a very deep dye.
WELSH, SAXONS, and NORMANS, had each their pecuniary atonements for lesser injuries. A
Welshman,
for the loss of his finger, received one cow and twenty pence; of his nose, six oxen and a hundred and twenty pence; and for being pulled by the hair, a penny for every finger, and two-pence for the thumb, the instruments of the insult
Leges Wallicae,
278.
. The
Saxons
had similar fines
Wilkin's Leges Saxon.
44.
and the
Normans,
like persons of nice honor, provided a penalty of five
sous
for a lug by the nose, and ten
pour un coup au derriere
MS. notes to my copy of
Les Coustumes de Normandie.
.
THE
Scotch
had also similar compensations for homicides and injuries; which, in their old laws, passed under the name of
Cro, Galnes,
and
Kelchyn
Regiam majestatem,
74.
: and lastly, the
Irish
had their
Eric,
or satisfaction for blood
Davies,
Hist.
Ireland,
109.
. In fact, it prevaled over all parts of
Europe,
with variations conformable to the several complections of the country.
I CANNOT but relate the occasion of this digression. Two villains, who had committed a most horrid murder
They had killed a poor parson, at the instigation of their chieftain, because his wife had preferred the nursing another great man's child to his.
in the remote of parts
Wales,
had fled into this neighborhood for protection, about the latter end of the fifteenth century. Two families at that time divided the country with their feuds; the
Kyffins
and the
Trevors:
who were ready at any time to receive under their protection, any banditti that were recommended to them by their remote friends, when their villanies rendered it unsafe for them to remain at home. The
Trevors
at this time gave
asylum
to these murderers. The friends of the person they had slain wished for revenge: being at that time in league with the
Kyffins,
a plot was laid to surprize the assassins.
Jevan ap Meredeth,
a gentleman of
Caernarvonshire,
who was most anxious to obtain redress for the injury, came over with six men, and was directed to keep himself concealed, least the
Trevors
should be alarmed, and frustrate his design. He accordingly kept within all day, and watched all night: at length the villains fell into his hands. The
Trevors
instantly pursued him; when he was told by the
Kyffins,
that if he was overtaken, and the offenders rescued, he would lose his revenge; for, according to the custom of the country, they would be carried before the gate of
Chirk-castle,
and be instantly cleared, on the payment of five pounds. This determined
Jevan
to order his followers to strike off their heads on the spot. One of them executed his order but faintly; when the criminal told him, that if he had his neck under his sword, he would
make it take a better edge
Gwydir
family, 107.
.
I WISH the cause had been better, that applause might have been given to this contempt of death; but such assassins as these could scarcely be animated with the prospect of immortality; which made their remote ancestors, inspired by the
Druid
songs, think it disgraceful to preserve a life that was so soon to return.
THE same consideration influenced the antient
Danes;
a warrior
fell
Bartholinus
de Contempt. mortis. p. 5.
,
laughed, and died.
Thus was the end of the
Scandinavian
hero,
Agnerus.
Herculè nemo illo visus mihi fortior unquam;
Semivigil subsedit enim cubitoque reclinis
Ridendo excepit lethum, mortemque cachinno
Sprevit: et
Elysium
gaudens successit in orbem.
Magna viri virtus, quae risu calluit uno
Supremam celare necem, summumque dolorem
Corporis ac mentis laeto compescere vultu!
SAXO GRAMM. p. 36. l. 29.
Ne'er did I yet such fortitude behold!
By the stern king of terrors uncontrol'd
The hero fell. Upon his arm reclin'd,
With laughing extasy his breath resign'd.
Th'
Elysian
fields just op'ning to his view,
To
Odin
's hall with eager haste he flew:
With joy, with triumph, he resign'd his breath,
And smil'd away the agonies of death.
R. W.
ON leaving the castle,
CEFN UCHA.
I ascended the front of
Cefn Ucha,
amidst the magnificent and flourishing plantations that arise under the direction of the present owner. This lofty hill extends towards
Llangollen,
and affords a prospect uncommonly great. The distant view is boundless. One side impends over a most beautiful valley, watered by the
Dee;
diversified with groves, and bounded towards the end by barren and naked rocks, tier above tier.
DESCEND towards
Llangollen,
seated on the river, environed by lofty mountains. On gaining the bottom, I made a little deviation to the left,
PENGWERN.
to visit
Pengwern,
or
Llys Pengwern,
a seat of
Tudor Trevor
earl of
Hereford
about the year 924,
TUDOR TREVOR.
and of his second son
Lluddocca,
from whom the
Mostyns
are lineally descended. It is still possessed by Sir
Roger,
the
Pen Cenedl
of his name.
LITTLE remains of the old house, excepting a narrow, vaulted room, whose roof is formed or nine strong ribs of stone, covered with narrow flags layed over them like planks. The room above seems to have been covered in the same manner. The family resided here for about four hundred years, till its acquisition of
Mostyn,
by the marriage of the heiress, as before related.
LLANGOLLEN is a small and poor town,
LLANGOLLEN.
seated in a most romantic spot, near a pretty common watered by the
Dee,
which, emblematic of its country, runs with great passion through the valley. The mountains soar to a great height above their wooded bases; and one, whose summit is crowned with the antient castle
Brân,
is uncommonly grand.
I KNOW no place in
North Wales,
where the refined lover of picturesque scenes, the sentimental, or the romantic, can give a fuller indulgence to his inclination. No place abounds more with various rides or solemn walks. From this central spot, he may (as I have done) visit the seat of
Owen Glyndwr,
and the fine vallies of the
Dee,
to its source, beyond the great
Llyntegid:
or pass the mountains to the fertile vale of
Clwyd;
or make the tour of
Wrexham;
or visit the places which I have just left.
M. Griffith del.
CASTLE D
W. Matt
ulp.
NAS BRAN.
AMONG the walks on the banks of the
Dee,
the venerable remains of the neighboring abby, and the arduous ascent of
Castell Dinas Brân,
are so engaging, that I believe no traveller of taste will think a repetition of them tedious.
THE church of
Llangollen
is dedicated to St.
Collen ap Gwynnawg,
CHURCH.
ap Clydawg, ap Cowrda, ap Caradog Freichfras, ap Llyr Merim, ap Einion Yrth, ap Cunedda Wledig,
by
Ethni Wyddeles,
daughter to
Matholwch
lord of
Cwl
in the kingdom of
Ireland;
which saint was buried here; and has left behind him a legend worthy of the
Alcoran
itself.
THE bridge,
BRIDGE.
which was founded by the first
John Trevor
bishop of St.
Asaph
Willis
's St.
Asaph,
52. 285.
, who died in 1357, is one of the
Tri Thlws Cymru,
or three beauties of
Wales:
but more remarkable for its situation than structure. It consists of five arches; whose widest does not exceed twenty-eight feet in diameter. The river usually runs under only one; where it has formed a black chasm of vast depth, into which the water pours with great fury, from a high broken ledge, formed in the smooth and solid rock, which composes the whole bed of the river. The view through the arches, either upwards or downwards, is extremely picturesque.
NEAR the foot of the bridge, opposite to the town,
CASTELL DINAS BRAN.
begins the ascent to
Castell Dinas Brân,
whose remains nearly cover the summit of a vast conoid hill, steeply sloped on every side. The form is oblong: the materials the coarse stone of the country, with here and there a few free-stone moldings. The side, which is less steep, defended by deep trenches, cut through the solid rock. This was one of our primitive
Welsh
castles. The founder is unknown. I dare not attribute its origin and name to
Brennus
king of the
Gauls,
who besieged the capitol; and is fabled to have come into these parts to fight with his brother
Belinus:
nor yet do I derive it from
Bryn,
a hill, nor
Bran,
a crow; but from the mountain river
Brân,
that runs down its side.
IT had been the chief seat of the lords of
Jâl
or
Yale;
and probably was founded by one of them. In the reign of
Henry
III. it was the retreat of
Gryffydd ap Madog,
who traiterously siding with the
English
against his countrymen, was obliged to secure himself in this aërial fastness.
ON the death of
Gryffydd, Edward
I. ungratefully bestowed on
John
earl
Warren,
the wardship of the eldest son of his old partizan; as he did that of the second on
Roger Mortimer.
Both the guardians understood the meaning of the favor; and accordingly made away with the poor children, and received full possession of their estates
Rotuli Walliae, 81.
, as before related. From the
Warrens
it passed by marriage to the
Fitzalans,
and followed the succession of the lords of
Bromfield.
THE time of its ruin is unknown.
Leland
speaks of it as a demolished place; and adds, that an eagle built annually in the neighboring rocks; that a person was wont to be lowered down in a basket to take the young; and was obliged to have another basket over his head, to save him from the fury of the old birds.
IN 1390,
MYFANWY VECHAN.
this castle was inhabited by a celebrated beauty, descended from the house of
Tudor Trevor,
and whose father probably held the castle under the earls of
Arundel.
The name of the lady was
Myfanwy Vechan;
she made a conquest of
Howel ap Einion Lygliw,
a celebrated bard, who composed the following ode, addressed to her; which an ingenious friend was pleased to favor me with in an
English
dress.
NEUD wyf ddihunwyf, hoen Creirwy hoywdeg, A'm hudodd,
&c.
Sorrowing I strike the plaintive string;
Deign, cruel maid, to hear me sing;
And let my song thy pride controul,
Divine inchantress of my soul!
Sure
Creirwy
's charms must yield to thine,
And
Garwy
's
This knight and lady seem to have been the same with
Syr Gareth
and
Damoysell Lynet,
celebrated in the viith book of the Storye of the most worthy kynge
Arthur,
Sir
Gareth
loved and was beloved by the fair
Lyones,
sister to
Lynet.
Their passion exceeded the bounds of discretion; but
Lynet,
to save their honor, by enchantment prevents their loves, till they are joined together in holy matrimony.
sufferings to mine.
Far from
Myfanwy
's marble tow'rs,
I pass my solitary hours.
O thou that shinest like the sky,
Behold thy faithful
Howel
die!
In golden verse, in flowery lays,
Sweetly I sang
Myfanwy
's praise;
Still the disdainful, haughty fair,
Laughs at my pain, and my despair.
What tho' thine eyes, as black as sloes,
Vie with the arches of thy brows;
Must thy desponding lover die,
Slain by the glances of thine eye?
Pensive, as
Trystan
Trystan
was another famous knight. His sorrow seems to have arose from his being deserted by a lady, who, as the history relates, forsook him for
Syr Bleoberys.
, did I speed
To
Brán,
upon a stately steed:
Fondly I gaze; but hard's my doom,
Oh fairer than the cherry's bloom!
Thus at a distance to behold
Whom my fond arms would fain enfold.
How swift, on
Alban
A
Scotch
horse.
steed, I flew,
Thy dazzling countenance to view!
Though hard the steep ascent to gain,
Thy smiles were harder to obtain,
Thy peerless beauties to declare
Was still thy zealous lover's care,
O fairer thou, and colder too,
Than new-fall'n snow on
Aren
's
Two lofty mountains in
Merionethshire.
This poem is taken from the collection formed by the learned and ingenious Mr.
Evan Evans.
brow!
O, lovely flow'r of
Trevor
's race,
Let not a cruel heart disgrace
The beauties of that heavenly face!
Thou art my daily thought; each night
Presents
Myfanwy
to my sight;
And death alone can draw the dart
Which love has fixed in my heart.
Ah! canst thou, with ungentle eye,
Behold thy faithful
Howel
die?
For thee my verse shall ever run,
Bright rival of the mid-day sun!
Shou'dst thou demand thy lover's eyes,
Gladly to thee I'd sacrifice
My useless sight, that only shews
The cruel author of its woes,
Refulgent in her golden bower,
As morning in her eastern tow'r,
Thy name, the echoing vallies round,
Thy name, a thousand hills resound,
Myfanwy Vechan,
maid divine!
No name's so musical as thine;
And every bard with rapture hung
On the soft music of my song.
For thee I languish, pine, and rave,
White as
Dwrdwy
's curling wave.
Alas! no words can speak my pain,
While thus I love, but love in vain!
Wisdom, and Reason, what are they,
What all the charms of Poësy,
Against the fury of thy darts,
Thou vanquisher of human hearts?
When first I saw thee, princely maid!
In scarlet robes of state array'd,
Thy beauties set my soul on fire,
And every motion fann'd desire:
The more on thy sweet form I gaz'd,
The more my frantic passion blaz'd.
Not half so fine the spider's thread,
That glitters on the dewy mead,
As the bright ringlets of thy hair,
Thou beauteous object of my care!
But ah! my sighs, my tears are vain;
The cruel maid insults my pain!
And canst thou, without pity, see
The victim of thy cruelty—
Pale with despair, and robb'd of sleep,
Whose only business is to weep?—
Behold thy bard, thy poet, languish?
Oh! ease thy bard's, thy poet's, anguish;
And for Heaven's sake, some pity shew,
Ere to the shades of night I go!
O, fairer than the flowers adorning
The hawthorn in a summer's morning!
While life remains, I still will sing
Thy praise, and make the mountains ring
With fair
Myfanwy
's tuneful name;
And from misfortune purchase fame.
Nor even to die shall I repine,
So
Howel
's name may live with thine,
R. W.
AFTER a short repose,
RHIWABON.
on my descent from the castle, I made an excursion to
Rhiwabon,
a few miles from
Llangollen.
For some time the ride was along the sides of the
Dee,
which watered a beautiful narrow vale. The hills at length approximate so nearly, as only to leave room for a most picturesque passage, shaded with trees. Cross a bridge called the
New bridge,
and ascend for some space, leaving on the left considerable pits both of coal and canal: reach the village of
Rhiwabon,
which takes its name from the
Avon,
or little river on which it lies.
THE church is dedicated to St.
Mary.
CHURCH.
It has been lately fitted up in a very neat manner by Sir
Watkin Williams Wynn,
who bestowed on it an organ, and a small font; the last, on occasion of the christening of his eldest son in 1772: is of white marble, supported by a tripod of distinguished elegance.
THE monument to his first wife,
MONUMENTS.
lady
Harriet Somerset,
is in fine taste. The figure of Hope reclines on an urn, and is attended with her usual emblem of an anchor. A serpent with its tail in its mouth, expressive of eternity, includes the inscription on one side of the pedestal.
As a contrast to this excellent performance of Mr.
Nollikin,
is placed against the wall a great monument of
Henry Wynn
Esq
tenth son of Sir
John Wynn
of
Gwydir,
who died in 1671. His attitude is that of a fanatical preacher; and his dress a full-buttoned coat, short skirts, and square shoes; a most unhappy subject for the sculptor. On one side kneels Sir
John Wynn
of
Wynn-stay,
baronet; and on the other,
Jane
his wife, daughter to
Eyton Evans,
by whom he acquired the estate. He died at the age of ninety-one, in 1718; and left his fortune to the late Sir
W. W. Wynn.
He is represented blind: this accident (in his extreme age) is mentioned in his epitaph as a benefit, since his inward perceptions were improved by this bodily defect. It reminds me of two lines of
Waller,
in which the same idea is much better expressed:
The soul's dark cottage batter'd and decay'd
Lets in new light, thro' chinks which time hath made.
IN the same chapel is an antient tomb, of the altar fashion, with monkish
pleureurs
on the sides, and angels holding shields of now defaced arms. On the top are recumbent two figures; an armed man with a collar of SS. and a lady lying on a cloak: at their feet a lion with a monk sitting on it, with his head reclined on one hand.
AROUND the edges of the tomb is this inscription:
Orate pro anima
Johannis ap Elis Eyton,
armigeri qui obiit vicessimo octavo die menfis
Septembris
anno Domini 1526; et pro anima
Elizabeth. Calfley
uxoris ejus, quae obiit xi. die menfis
Junii
anno Domini 1524; quorum animabus propicietur Deus.
Amen.
THIS gentleman joined
Henry
VII. before the battle of
Bosworth;
and for his good services had considerable grants of land in these parts. He was of the house of
Eyton
before-mentioned. His grandfather was twice married to the same lady; who, on some pretence of consanguinity, had been divorced from him after bearing him a son of the name of
Ellis:
but, obtaining a dispensation, they were re-united in form. After the second marriage, were born other children. A division of the estates was then made:
Rhiwabon
and
Watstay
fell to the share of
Ellis;
and
Eyton
to
John,
the first of the second brood
Eyten
Pedigree.
.
ON the other side of the altar is a noble monument to the late Sir
Watkin Williams Wynn,
whose virtues are still fresh in the minds of his countrymen. A fall from his horse, on
September
26th 1749, deprived the world of a useful citizen.
Rysbrack
has preserved his figure in a graceful attitude. The late Doctor
King
of St.
Mary
-hall thus expressed the qualities of his mind:
ADSERTORI LIBERTATIS PUBLICAE. H. S. E. WATKIN WILLIAMS WYNN
Baronettus.
Qui ab illustri
Britannorum
veterum stirpe oriundus, majoribus suis se dignissimum semper praebuit, et non modo nomine, sed virtute et fide hominem vere
Britannum.
Admodum juvenis in senatum electus confestim cunctis innotuit gravitate et judicio: Postquam vero et ipse de republica coepit disputare, et libertatis patrocinium ac defensionem suscipere, incredibilem animi magnitudinem, atque ejus constantiam omnes ita suspexerunt, ut, cum senatus princeps, tum patriae pater meritò haberetur. Tam rectis studiis et ea singulari bonitate fuit praeditus, ut non posset fieri, quin maximam sibi gratiam et venerationem compararet vir innocentissimus, idemque prudentissimus pater-familias, continentissimus maritus, benignissimus hospes, optimus literarum patronus, et assiduus DEI et CHRISTIANAE veritatis cultor. Ad haec quam suavis et jucundus fuit in convictu! Quanta fides ejus sermonibus! Qualis in ore probitas et decor! Quae mensae reverentia! Quae in cultu moderatio! Quae in omni vita modestia, elegantia, comitas, liberalitas! Talis tantique viri immaturo interitu quam grave damnum fecit
Britannia;
quum cuncti qui ejus virtutes cognoverint (cognovit penitùs qui haec moerens scripsit) eo erepto, miserorum omnium perfugium, bonorum omnium delicias, doctorum omnium praesidium,
Walliae
suae decus et ornamentum, et clarissimum reipublicae lumen ereptum et extinctum esse fateantur!
Obiit
260 . die
Septembris
1749.
Aetatis suae 57mo .
THE park of
Wynn-stay
reaches to the village of
Rhiwabon;
and is most advantageously situated.
WYNN-STAY.
The grounds well-wooded; the views distinct and extremely elegant; especially those towards the
Berwyn
mountains, and the august breach made into them beyond
Llangollen
by the rapid
Dee,
through the country of the
irregular and wild
GLYNDWR.
NANTY BELE,
NANTY BELE.
or the
Dingle of the Martin,
lies about a mile from hence, and merits a visit from every traveller. From a rock at its extremity, is a magnificent view of the
Dee,
rolling awefully in a deep chasm fringed with woods; at last terminating sullenly in a black and still pool. Towards the north is a great view of the conic mountain, and the rude fortress of
Dinas Brân,
rising amidst a fertile vale, and bounded by the barren
Alps.
THE house has been built at various times. The most antient is a gateway of wood and plaister, dated 1616. On a wall within the court, is this excellent distich, allusive to the name of the house;—
Wynn stay,
or rest satisfied with the good things Providence has so liberally showered on you.
Cui domus est victusque decens, cui patria dulcis
Sunt satis haec vitae, caetera cura, labor.
The former name of the place was
Wat-stay,
from its situation on the famous dike; but was changed to the present by Sir
John Wynn,
out of respect to his own name. It was originally called simply
Rhiwabon,
and had been the residence of
Madeg ap Gryffydd Maelor,
founder of
Vale Crucis
Eyton
Pedigroe.
.
THE new part was built by the late Sir
Watkin;
is of itself a good house; yet was only part of a more extensive design. It is finished in that substantial yet neat manner becoming the seat of an honest
English
country gentleman; adapted to the reception of his worthy neighbors, who may experience his hospitality without dread of spoiling the frippery ornaments, becoming only the assembly-rooms of a town-house, or the
villa
of a great city. The present owner meditates the re-building of the old part; and, as he has already shewn such good judgment in a noble room, in which simplicity is joined with grandeur, there is little doubt but he will preserve a style of local propriety throughout the whole.
THE present set of pictures belonging to the house are portraits of the families of
Wynn
and
Williams.
Here is a very fine three-quarters of the old Sir
John Wynn
of
Gwedir,
in a high hat, and with a vast white beard, and in the dress of the times of
James
I. I reserve further mention of him till I arrive at his antient seat.
HIS son, Sir
John Wynn
knight, is drawn half-length; a young man, with whiskers and a peaked beard; dark hair; great flat ruff; black vest; white girdle, stuck with points; a white flowered baldric. Sir
John
died on his travels, at
Lucca,
and was succeeded by his brother
Richard.
A most exquisite head of Sir
Richard,
by
Vandyck,
is preserved here. He was gentleman of the privy-chamber to
Charles
I. when prince of
Wales,
and attended him in the romantic journey he took into
Spain,
in 1623, to visit his designed bride. Sir
Richard
drew up an admirable account of his travels, which is printed among other scarce tracts, by Mr.
Thomas Hearn.
On the accession of
Charles
to the throne, he was appointed treasurer to the queen; and, dying without issue, was succeeded by his brother
Owen.
A HALF-LENGTH of
Henry Wynn
Esq
another son of the old Sir
John,
and representative of the county of
Merioneth,
in the last parlement of
James
I. He is painted in black hair, a great
-over, and a letter in his hand. Here is also a portrait of
brother, a captain of a man of war, in the same dress: Both of them good performances.
HERE are, besides, several more modern portraits; such as of the two late dukes of
Beaufort
in their robes. A composition, with
Charles
duke of
Beaufort
leaning on the late Sir
Watkin
's shoulder, looking at the horse legacy. This figure of Sir
Watkin
is the strongest resemblance of him of any.
TWO portraits of the late owner of this place, and his first lady, by
Dahl.
His full wig and dress gives a very disadvantageous idea of him. The fashion is equally the misfortune of the artist and his employer.
A THREE-quarters length of Sir
John Wynn
baronet, with a full wig and cravat. The same whose monument we have before mentioned.
TWO very fine full-lengths of
Charles
II. and his queen, close this short list.
ON my return to
Rhiwabon,
I passed through the turnpike towards
Wrexham.
On the road I digressed a little to the left, to visit a great
Caer
in this parish, called the
Garthen,
GARTHEN.
i. e.
Caer-ddm,
seated on the summit of a hill commanding a most extensive view a
urd, of the fine and fertile country of
Maelor Gymraeg,
or
Bromfield;
and part of
Maelor Saesneg,
or
English Maelor,
mostly flat and wooded. This
Caer
contains about four acres of ground, protected in some parts by one, in others with two very strong dikes and deep ditches. The inner dike is made of loose stones, with a wall of vast thickness on the top. Within the area are many vestiges of buildings, the habitations of the old possessors. It lies between the
Offa
's and the
Wat
's dike. Part of the turnpike-road is formed for a considerable way along the top of the first, which shews its prodigious thickness.
I PURSUED the tract of
Wat's dike
to
Erddig,
ERDDIG.
the elegant seat of
Philip Yorke
Esq
a place where nature has been lavish of beauties, and improved by the excellent taste of the worthy owner. Two little vales bound his lands, watered by a pretty stream, and bordered with hanging woods. Along one side of the bank runs the dike; and at the end, between the two vales, impending over them, are small but strong entrenchments. One surrounds a work of a pentagon form; beyond which, at the very verge, is a mount that seems to have been a
dernier resort
to the garrison, in case they had been beaten out of the former. These compose what is called the
Roman fort;
but there are neither coins or any thing else to confirm the conjecture of its having been one. A fragment of wall cemented with mortar is all that remains of this castelet.
WREXHAM lies at a small distance from this place.
WREXHAM.
This town is the largest in
North Wales,
and the parish the most populous. It appears by the antient name to have been of
Saxon
origin; being called
Wrightesham.
I can trace it no farther back than the time of the last earl
Warren,
who had a grant of it
Dugdale Baren.
i. 82.
Leland
speaks of it as a place where there were some merchants and good buckler-makers
Itin.
v. 34.
. The parish is at this time noted for a manufactory of instruments of war; but altered for those of offence, instead of defence. Near the place is a great foundery for cannon, under the direction of Mr.
Wilkinson,
who supplies many parts of
Europe
with this
ratio ultima regum;
and in the late war between
Russians
and
Turks,
furnished both parties with this species of logic.
THE church of
Wrexham
is the glory,
CHURCH.
not only of the place, but of
North Wales;
being a magnificent pile, erected in the time of
Henry
VII. The date on the steeple is 1506. The inside of the church is very spacious; and consists of a nave, two ailes, and a chancel. Above the pillars is abundance of grotesque carving, in ridicule of the regular clergy, and the female religious, abbesses and nuns; and over the arches of the nave, are many of the arms of the old
British
and
Saxon
princes.
TOMBS.
The tombs are numerous. The most antient is of a knight all armed: at his feet is a dog, and beyond that a dragon, whose tail terminates in a serpent's head. On his shield is a lion rampant. Around is an inscription; but all I could make out was
Hic jacet * * * * * * * * * * ap Howel
The letters are REH. (or R) EVEHIRE.
. This had been dug up, and is now reared against the steeple.
THAT of
Hugh Bellot
vicar of
Gresford,
and afterwards bishop of
Bangor
and of
Chester,
is the next. He lies in his robes recumbent, near the altar. It was his request to be interred in the parish where he died. His death happened at
Berse,
near this town, in 1596. His funeral was celebrated at
Chester,
and his body deposited here.
ALMOST opposite to the prelate is a magnificent monument, in memory of Mrs.
Mary Middleton,
daughter of Sir
Richard Middleton
of
Chirk castle
She died
April
8th 1747, aged 59.
. She is represented rising out of her tomb in all the fulness of youth and beauty. She died a very withered old woman; but I like the thought of the sculptor, allusive to the sublime passage in the burial-service:
The irumpet shall sound, and the dead shall be raised incorruptible, and we shall be changed.
Above is a shattered pyramid, and, what might have been well excused, the gross representation of the angelic beings founding the awakening call.
IN a corner of one aile is a small but elegant monument of the Reverend Mr.
Thomas Middleton,
and his wife
Arabella Hacker,
by
Roubiliac.
Their faces are in profile on a medallion, with a curtain lightly hanging on one side.
AMONG the epitaphs are some to every taste. That to a worthy usher, my earliest instructor, in the school of this town, merits preservation.
Febr. 28, 1743. obiit
Rev. GULIEL. LEWIS,
Vir cruditus, affabilis et benevolus,
Qui nil turpe vel in se admisit
Vel fovit in aliis.
THAT in the church-yard, on
Elibu Yale
of
Plas Gronow
Esq
. expresses an uncommon variety of fortune
He was inferred
July
22d, 1721. He bestowed on the church the altar-piece, with the picture of the institution of the sacrament, which he brought from
Rome;
also the picture of
David.
:
Born in
America,
in
Europe
bred,
In
Africa
travell'd, and in
Asia
wed,
Where long he liv'd and thriv'd; at
London
dead.
Much good, some ill, he did; so hope all's even,
And that his soul thro' mercy's gone to heaven.
You that survive, and read, take care
For this most certain exit to prepare:
For only the actions of the just,
Smell sweet and blossom in the dust.
OF the following, the first is simple; the second, what the Spectator calls light, but nervous; and the third informs you, that the deceased had lived, but not that he died.
Here lies a churchwarden,
A choyce flower in that garden,
Joseph Critchley
by name,
Who lived in good fame:
Being gone to his rest,
Without doubt he is blest.
Died 10th of
March
1671/
.
Here lies interr'd beneath these stones,
The beard, the flesh, and eke the bones,
Of
Wrexham
clerk, old
Daniel Jones.
1668.
Here lies
John Shore,
I say no more,
Who was alive
In sixty-five.
October 9th.
ON the outside of the church is great variety of ludicrous and gross sculpture.
STEEPLE.
The steeple is a fine tower, richly ornamented on three sides with rows of saints placed in rich gothic niches. Among them is St.
Giles,
the patron saint of the church, with the hind which miraculously nourished him in the desert. At each corner is a light turret with a winding stair-case, twenty-four feet high: the whole height of the steeple is a hundred and thirty-five feet.
Two casualties are recorded to have befallen this building. The steeple was blown down on St.
Catherine
's day, 1331; and the church was burnt about the year 1457. In order to rebuild it, an indulgence of forty days, for five years, was granted to every contributor to so pious a work.
THE church is a vicarage, formerly an impropriation, belonging to the abbey of
Valle Crucis;
but on a dispute between
A
n
the second, bishop of St.
Asaph,
was restored to the see
See the account of
Valle Crucis,
in the further progress of this work.
. This great cure is assisted by two chapels;
Minera,
or
Mwyn glawdd,
the
Mine upon the ditch,
from that of
Offa
running by it: this is a rich mineral tract, in the mountanous part of the parish. The other chapel is that of
Berse,
or
Bersham,
a recent foundation.
THE free-school is endowed with ten pounds a year, paid by the mayor of
Chester,
being the bequest of
Valentine Broughton,
alderman of that city, for the instruction of twelve boys.
THE western part of this parish is hilly and mineral.
MINES.
Part of the mines on the waste are the property of lord
Grosvenour,
and some belong to the corporation of
Chester. Brombrough,
another township on the heights, produces coal. In this place the inhabitants of
Holt
had, by the charter granted to them in 1410, by
Thomas
earl of
Arundel,
the liberty of digging for turf and coal. The far greater part of the parish is either flat, or composed of gentle risings, extremely fertile and pleasant, inhabited by a numerous gentry, who still preserve the character left of their predecessors, by honest
Churchyard,
the simple swan of the reign of
Elizabeth.
They are the joye and gladnesse of the poore,
That dayly feede the hungrie at their doore:
In any soyle where gentlemen are found,
Some house is kept, and bountie doth abound.
FROM
Wrexham
I made an excursion to
Gresford,
and on my road called at
Acton,
ACTON.
the seat of my good friend
Ellis Yonge
Esq
. This place was formerly the property of the
Jefferies,
a race that, after running uncontaminated from an antient stock, had the disgrace of producing in the last century
George Jefferies,
CHANCELLOR JEFFERIES.
chancellor of
England;
a man of first-rate abilities in his profession, but of a heart subservient to the worst of actions. His portrait is a fine full-length, in the robes of his office, painted by Sir
Godfrey Kneller
Here is another fine full-length of his brother Sir
Thomas,
in a full wig and long cloak, with the cross of some religious order.
.
Charles
II. sat to this great painter; who survived to draw
George
I. and to receive from him the dignity of baronet.
Jefferies
was sixth son of
John Jefferies,
and
Margaret
daughter to Sir
Thomas Ireland
of
Beausey,
near
Warrington.
Here is preserved a good portrait of the old gentleman, in black, sitting: it was drawn in the 82d year of his age, in 1690.
George
had the common school education of the country, from which he was removed to that of
Westminster.
He never had an academic education, but was placed immediately in the inner temple, where he was chiefly supported by his grand-mother.
HE was never regularly called to the bar. The accident of the plague in the neighborhood of
London
first introduced him into his profession; for, in 1666, he put on a law-gown, and pleading at the
Kingston
assizes, where few counsel chose to attend, he from that time acted without any notice being taken of his obtrusion. About this time, he made clandestine addresses to the daughter of a wealthy merchant; in which he was assisted by a young lady, the daughter of a clergyman. The affair was discovered, and the confidante turned out of doors.
Jefferies,
with a generosity unknown to him in his prosperous days, took pity and married her. She proved an excellent wife, and lived to see him lord chief justice of
England.
On her death he married the widow of Mr.
Jones
of
Montgomeryshire,
and daughter to Sir
Thomas Blodworth.
HIS first preferment from the court was that of a
Welsh
judge. In 1680, he was made chief justice of
Chester.
After this, he rose with great rapidity; and, as is well known, fell as suddenly. His conduct, as chancellor, was upright and able; as a politician, unrestrained by any principle; devoted to the worst measures of an infatuated court. He was extremely given to the bottle; and paid so little respect to his character, that one day having drank to excess with the lord treasurer and others, they were going to strip, and get upon a sign-post to drink the king's health, had not they been prevented
Reresby
's Memoirs, 231.
. He died soon after his commitment, either from hard-drinking or a broken heart, and so was preserved from the infamy of public execution.
GRESFORD or
Croes-ffordd, the road of the cross,
GRESFORD:
lies about two miles further. The church is seated on the brow of a lofty eminence, over a beautiful little valley, whose end opens into the vast expanse of the vale royal of
Cheshire;
and exhibits a view of uncommon elegance.
CHURCH.
The church is extremely handsome; but less ornamented than that of
Wrexham,
though built in the same reign. On the top of the tower are images of the apostles. On one side, in a niche, is another of
Henry
VII. The neat reparation of the inside, is owing to the direction and excellent judgment of the reverend Mr.
Newcome,
the present vicar.
HERE are two antient monuments: one,
TOMBS.
much hid by a pew, a flat stone, with a shield and other sculpture. The arms on the shield are three mullets on a bend. These shew the deceased to have been one of the later posterity of
Ithel ap Ednyfed,
whose father had the townships of
Gresford
and
Allington
bestowed on him for services done to
Bleddyn ap Cynvyn,
in the wars against the
English. Ithel
inherited also
Lleprog Vawr, Lleprog Vechan,
and
Trefnant
in
Englefield.
Many of his offspring were buried here †.
IN the north aile is a tomb of a warrior armed in mail. On his shield is a lion rampant; and round the verge,
Hic jacet
MADOC AP LLEWELIN AP GRUFF. He was of
Eyton, Erlisham,
and
Rhiwabon.
He was buried on St.
Mathias
's day, 1331.
HERE are,
THE TREVORS.
besides, some mural monuments of the
Trevors
of
Trevalyn.
The first is of
John Trevor
Esq
placed in armour, in a reclining posture, with an inscription in
Welsh
on a tablet, concealing half his body. It signifies, that he died in
London
in
June
1589; and that his son, Sir
Richard,
caused his bones to be removed to this place.
SIR RICHARD erected his own monument in 1638, in the 80th year of his age, representing himself in armour kneeling: and his wife
Catherine,
daughter of
Robert Puleston
Esq
of
Emral,
by him. The inscription informs us, that it was chiefly in memory of his lady, that he caused this memorial to be erected.
Salusbury
Pedigree, iii. 6.
He served many years in the
Irish
wars; was governor of
Newry,
and the counties of
Down
and
Ardmagh;
council of the marches, and vice admiral of
North Wales;
and lived (as he tells us) to see his children's children's children. There is another monument to his lady, who is placed kneeling with her five daughters.
AT their neighboring seat of
Trevalyn,
is a singular portrait of Sir
Richard,
dressed in black. Above hang his arms, with the words
So then:
beneath are some medicines, and
Now thus:
allusive to his former and present state.
A
the extremity of the lofty slope that impends over the plains, and affords an almost boundless view to the north and north-east,
THE ROFTS.
is a peninsulated field, called the
Rofts,
that formed, in old times, a strong
British
post. It is defended by three strong dikes and fosses, cut across the narrow isthmus that connects it to higher parts of the parish. On two sides it is inaccessible by reason of the steepness of the declivity; and on the fourth, which fronts
Cheshire,
and is of easier ascent, had been protected by two or three other ditches, now almost levelled by the plough. In one corner of this post is a vast exploratory mount. This seems to have been an important station; an outguard to our country against invaders; which made an artificial elevation quite necessary, in order to observe the motions of an enemy.
IT lies, I think, in the manor of
Merford;
which, with that of
Horsley,
was, by act of parlement, in the reign of
Henry
VIII.
ng into the county of
Flint;
but whether they extend to the parish of
Hope
in
Flintshire,
or are surrounded by
Denbighshire,
I am uncertain.
FROM hence I returned by the same road to my quarters at
Llangollen.
IN the morning I took a ride to view the country that lies to the south-west. The road lay on the same side of the river with the town: I kept ascending a hill cloathed in many parts with birch. From the summit was a most elegant view; one way, of the antient castle on its conic hill, and the mural ranges of the
Glisseg
rocks in various tiers behind. Beneath, on the other side,
LLANDYSILIO.
lies the house of
Llandysilio,
the seat of
Thomas Jones
Esq
in a pretty vale, watered by the
Dee,
that winds along the bottom, after passing between two rocky promontories, that barely give it a channel.
THE church is dedicated to St.
Tysilio,
CHURCH.
prince of
Powys,
son of
Brochwel Ysgithrog,
by
Arddun Benasgell,
or
Arddun
with the winged head, daughter of St.
Pabo post Prydain,
or the pillar of
Britain.
This parish is in the hundred of YALE;
YALE.
which contains, besides those of
Bryn Eglwys, Llandegla, Llanarmon,
and
Llanverres.
AFTER a descent of no great length, enter MERIONETHSHIRE, into that portion for ever to be distinguished in the
Welsh
annals, on account of the hero it produced, who made such a figure in the beginning of the fifteenth century. This tract was antiently a comot in the kingdom of
Mathraval,
or
Powys;
and still retains its former title
Glyn-dwrdwy,
GLYN-DWRDWY.
or the valley of the
Dee.
It extends about seven miles in length; is narrow, fertile in grass, bounded by lofty hills, often cloathed with trees; and lies in the parishes of
Llangollen, Llandy
ilio, Llansantffraid,
and
Corwen.
THIS tract once belonged to the lords of
Dinas Brân.
After the murder of the two eldest sons of
Gryffydd ap Madoc
the last lord, the earl
Warren,
who had usurped the property of the eldest, appears to have been seized with remorse for his crime; and, instead of removing the other object of his fear, as a
Machiavelian
politician would have done, procured from
Edward
I. a grant of this tract to
Gryffydd Vychan,
third brother to the unhappy youth, dated from
Rudland
the 12th of
February
1282
Rotuli Walliae, 87.
.
OWEN was fourth in descent from this nobleman.
O. GLYNDWR, HIS DESCENT.
His father's name was
Gryffydd Vychan;
his mother's,
Elena,
of royal blood, and from whom he afterwards clamed the throne of
Wales.
She was eldest daughter of
Thomas ap Llewelyn ap Owen,
by his wife
Elinor Goch,
or
Elinor
the red, daughter and heiress to
Catherine,
one of the daughters of
Llewelyn
last prince of
Wales,
and wife to
Philip ap Ivor
of
Iscoed.
She probably was married before the death of her father, otherwise the jealousy of
Edward,
about the succession to the principality, would have made her share the fate of her sister
Gwenllian;
who, perforce, took the veil in the convent of
Shaftesbury.
WRITERS vary in the account of the day of the birth of
Glyndwr.
BIRTH.
One manuscript fixes it on the 28th of
May
1354: that preserved by
Lewis Owen,
places the event five years earlier; for the year 1349, says he, was distinguished by the first appearance of the pestilence in
Wales,
and by the birth of
Owen Glyndwr.
HEROES are often introduced into the world by some strange phoenomenon,
OMENS.
that presages their future celebrity, or the happiness or misery they were to bring upon their country; but it is probable that their course is finished, before superstition invents the tale, and adopts it to their actions.
Holinshed
relates one on this occasion, correspondent to a blemish we could wish to clear the character of our countryman from. His cruelty was foretold at his nativity, by the marvellous accident of his father's horses being found standing that night in the stables up to their bellies in blood.
Shakespear
omits this circumstance; but, in his spirited character of
Owen,
puts these beautiful lines into his mouth, finely descriptive of the vain-glory and superstition of the old
British
chieftain.
At
my
birth
The front of heav'n was full of fiery shapes;
The goats ran from the mountains, and the herds
Were strangely clamorous in the frighted fields:
These signs have mark'd me extraordinary,
And all the courses of my life do shew,
I am not in the roll of common men.
HIS bard,
Jolo Goch,
gives him incense of a far superior kind: and I fear the poet's ardor to celebrate his patron, carried him to the borders of blasphemy; for, in his
Cowydd y Seren,
or
Poem of the star,
he describes three that appeared to mark three great events; for, to the star which foretold the birth of our SAVIOUR, he adds another which presaged that of
Arthur;
and a third which marked the great deeds of
Glyndwr,
in 1402, the meridian of his glory
Cowydd y Seren,
a Ymddangoses mis mawrth, B. A. 1402.
.
HE appears to have had a liberal education. His ambition overcame the prejudices of his country against the
English;
and determined him to seek preferment among them. He entered himself in the inns of court, and studied there, till he became a barrister. It is probable, that he quitted his profession; for we find, that he was appointed
scutiger,
or squire of the body to
Richard
II. whose fortunes he followed to the last; was taken with him in
Flint
castle; and, when the king's houshold was dissolved, retired, with full resentment of his sovereign's wrongs, to his patrimony in
Wales.
I judge that he was knighted before the deposal of his master; for I find him among the witnesses in the celebrated cause between Sir
Richard le Scrope
and Sir
Ro
le Grosvenour,
about a coat of arms, under the title of Sir
de Glendore.
His brother also appears there by the name of
Tudor de Glendore.
This cause lasted three years, and ended in 1389
Collins
's Peerage, vii. 507.
.
JOLO GOCH,
HIS HOUSE.
the celebrated poet of this period, resided here for some time. He came on a pressing invitation from
Owen;
who, knowing the mighty influence of this order of men over the antient
Britons,
made his house, as
Jolo
says, a sanctuary for bards. He made them the instruments of his future operations, and to prepare the minds of the people against the time of his intended insurrection. From
Jolo
I borrow the description of the seat of the chieftain, when it was in full splendor. He compares it, in point of magnificence, to
Westminster
abby; and informs us, that it had a gate-house, and was surrounded with a moat.
THAT within were nine halls, each furnished with a wardrobe; I imagine, filled with the cloaths of his retainers, according to the custom of those days.
NEAR the house, on a verdant bank, was a wooden house, supported on posts, and covered with tiles. It contained four apartments, each subdivided into two, designed to lodge the guests.
HERE was a church in form of a cross, with several chapels.
THE seat was surrounded with every conveniency for good living; and every support to hospitality: a park, warren, and pigeon-house; a mill, orchard, and vineyard; and fish-pond, filled with pike and gwyniads. The last introduced from the lake at
Bala.
A HERONRY, which was a concomitant to the seat of every great man, supplied him and his guests with game for the sport of falconry.
A PLACE still remains, that retains the name of his park. It extends about a mile or two beyond the site of his house, on the left-hand of the valley.
THE vestiges of the house are small. The moat is very apparent: the measurement of the area it inclosed, is forty-six paces by twenty-six. There is the appearance of a wall on the outside, which was continued to the top of a great mount, on which stood the wooden house. On the other side, but at a greater distance, I had passed by another mount of the same kind, called
Hêndom;
which probably might have had formerly a building similar to that described by the bard. This, perhaps, was the station of a guard, to prevent surprize or insult from the
English
side. He had much to apprehend from the neighboring fortress of
Dinas Brân,
and its appendages, possessed by the earl of
Arundel,
a strenuous supporter of the house of
Lancaster.
THE bard speaks feelingly of the wine, the ale, the braget, and the white bread; nor does he forget the kitchen, nor the important officer the cook; whose life (when in the royal service) was estimated by our laws at a hundred and twenty-six cows
Leges Wallicae.
. Such was the hospitality of this house, that the place of porter was useless; nor were locks or bolts known. To sum up all, no one could be hungry or dry in
Sycharth,
the name of the place.
THE bard pays all due praise to the lady of the house, and her offspring.
A
Gwraig
orau o'r gwragedd,
WIFE.
Gwynn y myd, o'i Gwin a'i medd.
Merch eglur, Llin marchawglyw,
Urddol, hael, o reiol ryw.
A'i blant, a ddeuant bob ddau
Nythod tèg o bennaethau!
HIS wife, the best of wives!
Happy am I in her wine and metheglin.
Eminent woman of a knightly family.
Honorable, beneficent, noble.
His children come in pairs;
A beautiful nest of chieftains.
THE lady whom he thus celebrates, was
Margaret
daughter of Sir
David Hanmer
of
Hanmer,
in the county of
Flint,
one of the justices of the king's bench, by appointment of
Richard
II. in 1383, and knighted by him in 1387
Collins
's Baronet. 1720. ii. p. 235.
. Her nuptials were previous to her father's promotion; for it is certain that some of the daughters were married, and his sons grown to men's estate, before
Glyndwr
appeared in arms in the year 1400.
CHILDREN.
They followed him into the field, and commanded under him. It is probable that most of them fell gloriously in battle. Mr.
Brown Willis,
indeed, says, that on their father's death they fled into
Ireland;
that one of them settled in
Dublin,
and took the name of
Baulf
Hist. of St.
Asaph;
Cathedral, 61.
, or the strong; and was ancestor to a reputable family in that city.
HE matched his daughters into considerable families.
HIS eldest,
Isabel,
to
Adam
or
Adda ap Jorwerth Ddu.
HIS second,
Elizabeth,
or as some say
Alicia,
was married to Sir
John Scudamore
of
Ewyas,
and
Holm-Lacy,
in the county of
Hereford.
JONET, to
John Crofts
of
Croft Castle,
in the same county.
LORD GREY of
Ruthyn
took, through necessity,
Jane,
after he was made prisoner by her father, who forced him into the alliance.
HIS youngest daughter,
Margaret,
was married to
Roger Monnington
of
Monnington,
in the county of
Hereford,
towards the borders of
Brecknockshire.
The estate still continues in the name and family. I have had the pleasure of seeing at my house two ladies, owners of the place, direct descendants from the daughter of
Glyndwr.
HIS illegitimate issue were, his son
Jevan;
a daughter, married into the house of
Gwernan;
another, named
Myfanwy,
to
Llewelyn ap Adda
of
Trefor;
and
Gwenllian,
to
Philip ap Rys
of St.
Harmon
in
Radnorshire.
LEWIS GLYN COTHI, a bard of the time of
Henry
VI. speaks in high terms of her father
Glyndwr:
Ei
Thad oedd dwysawg eadarn,
A holl
Gymru
fu'n ei farn.
'Her father was a potent prince. All
Wales
was in his council.'
I MUST not omit notice of a mistake of the
English
historians, who mention the marriage of another daughter of
Glyndwr
to
Edmund
earl of
March.
This, they assert, was also effected by force, after the earl became his prisoner: but it does not appear that he ever was
Glyndwr
's captive; or that
March
had any other wife than
Anne
†, daughter to
Edmund
earl of
Stafford;
besides, the
Welsh
histories are totally silent on that head.
SUCH was the state of the domestic affairs of
Glyndwr
at the change of government in 1399. His resentment against the usurper was whetted by wrongs public and private: by the murder of the unhappy
Richard,
to whom he was strongly attached by being a personal favorite; and by the strong partiality the
Welsh
had for their late king.
IN the very first year or the new reign, he experienced the frowns of the court.
OPPRESSED BY LORD GREY.
Reginald
lord
Grey
of
Ruthyn,
taking advantage of the deposal of
Richard,
instantly seized on a certain common, called
Croeseu,
which
Glyndwr,
in a former reign, had recovered from him by course of law.
Owen
fought justice without having recourse to violence: he laid his case before parlement; but his suit was dismissed without redress.
THIS insult was aggravated by another injury. When
Henry
went on his expedition against the
Scots, Owen
was to have been summoned, among other barons, to attend the king with his vassals. The writ for that purpose was delivered to
Reginald
Visa Ricardi, ii. 171.
, who designedly neglected to deliver it till the time was nearly elapsed, and it became impossible for him to obey.
Regineld
returned to the king, and misrepresented the absence of
O
n
as an act of wilful disobedience; and, by this piece of treachery, took possession of all his land; and on this, under pretence of forfeiture, invaded such parts of
Glyndwr
's estates as lay adjacent to his own.
THE danger of driving into desperate measures a person of his interest, spirit, and abilities, was foreseen by
John Trevor
bishop of St.
Asaph,
who advised more temperate proceedings; that
Owen
was by no means a despicable enemy; and that the
W
lsh
would certainly be provoked into a general insurrection. His advice was rejected, and he was told there could be no fear about such a bare-footed rabble
Leland's
Collect.
i. 310.
.
IT does not appear that
Glyndwr,
till this period, had any settled design of flinging off the
English
yoke. Ambition now came in, and joined with his revenge.
ASSERTS HIS CLAME TO WALES.
He revolved in his mind his own genealogy: he derived himself from the antient race of
British
princes; and, apparently laying aside all sense of private wrong, made open clame to the throne of
Wales.
To encourage his countrymen, strongly attached to the prophecies of antient times, he reminded them of those of
Merlin
and other sages. His bards set before them the great qualities of their leader; and taught them to expect from his valor and conduct, the freedom of antient
Britons
from the galling weight of the
Saxon
yoke. His chief bard,
Gryffydd Llwyd,
after regretting his absence, chaunts his praise, and predicts the success of the war. The
Cowydd,
or poem, begins thus in the original:
Eryr digris afrised
OWAIN,
&c.
THE reader will receive it agreeably paraphrased by a bard of 1773.
1.
CAMBRIA'S princely eagle, hail!
Of
Gryffydd Vychan
's noble blood!
Thy high renown shall never fail,
Owain Glyndwr,
great and good!
Lord of
Dwrdwy
's fertile vale,
Warlike, high-born
Owain,
hail!
Dwrdwy,
whose wide-spreading streams,
Reflecting
Cynthia
's midnight beams,
Whilom led me to thy bower;
Alas! in an unguarded hour!
For high in blood, with
British
beverage hot,
My awful distance I forgot;
But soon my generous chief forgave
The rude presumption of his slave.
2.
But leave me not, illustrious lord!
Thy peaceful bow'r, and hospitable board,
Are ill exchang'd for scenes of war,
Tho'
Henry
calls thee from afar.
My prayers, my tears were vain;
He flew like lightning to the hostile plain.
While with remorse, regret, and woe,
I saw the god-like hero go;
I saw, with aching heart,
The golden beam depart.
His glorious image in my mind
Was all that
Owain
left behind.
Wild with despair, and woe-begone,
Thy faithful bard is left alone,
To sigh, to weep, to groan!
3.
Thy sweet remembrance, ever dear,
Thy name, still usher'd by a tear,
My inward anguish speak;
How could'st thou, cruel
Owain,
go,
And leave the bitter streams to flow
Down
Gryffydd
's surrow'd cheek?
I heard (who has not heard thy fame?)
With extasy I heard thy name
Loud echo'd by the trump of war,
Which spoke thee brave, and void of fear;
Yet of a gentle heart possess'd,
That bled within thy generous breast,
Wide o'er the sanguine plain to see
The haveck of hostility.
4.
Still with good omens may'st thou fight.
And do thy injur'd country right!
Like great
P
dragon
The omen alluded to was a star and fiery dragon; which, according to the interpretation of
M
l
,
predicted the reign of U
E
, afterwards surram d
Pen Dragon,
from hwing
golden dragons to be ma
one of which he pre
ted to the cathedral of
he carried along with him
w
at is
likely wore by way of
. His son A
the
.
of M
nm
l, 254. 257. 283.
shalt thou soar,
Who bade the din of battle roar,
What time his vengeful steel he drew
His brother's grandeur to renew,
And vindicate his wrongs;
His gallant actions still are told
By youthful bards, by
Druids
old,
And grateful
Cambria
's, songs.
5.
On sea, on land, thou still didst brave
The dangerous cliff and rapid wave;
Like
Urien,
who subdu'd the knight,
And the fell dragon put to flight,
Yon moss-grown fount beside;
The grim, black warrior of the flood,
The dragon, gorg'd with human blood,
The water's scaly pride.
Before his sword the mighty fled:
But now he's number'd with the dead.
Oh! may his great example fire
My noble patron to aspire
To deeds like his! impetuous fly.
And bid the
Saxon
squadrons die:
So shall thy laurel'd bard rehearse
Thy praise, in never-dying verse;
Shall sing the prowess of thy sword,
Beloved and victorious lord!
6.
In future times thy honor'd name
Shall emulate brave
Urien
's same!
Surrounded by the numerous foe,
Well didst thou deal th' unequal blow.
How terrible thy ashen spear,
Which shook the bravest heart with fear,
Yon hostile towers beneath!
More horrid than the lightning's glance,
Flash'd the red meteors from thy lance,
The harbinger of death.
Dire, and more dire, the conflict grew;
Thousands before thy presence flew;
While borne in thy triumphal car,
Majestic as the god of war,
Midst charging hosts unmov'd you stood,
Or waded thro' a sea of blood.
7.
Immortal fame shall be thy meed,
Due to every glorious deed;
Which latest annals shall record,
Beloved and victorious lord!
Grace, wisdom, valor, all are thine,
Owain Glyndwrdwy
divine!
Meet emblem of a two-edg'd sword,
Dreaded in war, in peace ador'd!
Steer thy swift ships to
Albion
's coast,
Pregnant with thy martial host.
Thy robes are white as driven snow,
And virtue smiles upon thy brow:
But terrible in war thou art,
And swift and certain is the dart
Thou hurlest at a
Saxon
's heart.
8.
Loud same has told thy gallant deeds;
In every word a
Saxon
bleeds.
Terror, and flight, together came,
Obedient to thy mighty name:
Death, in the van, with ample stride,
Hew'd thee a passage deep and wide.
Stubborn as steel, thy nervous chest
With more than mortal strength's possess'd;
And every excellence belongs
To the bright subject of our songs.
9.
Strike then your harps, ye
Cambrian
bards;
The song of triumph best rewards
An hero's toils. Let
Henry
weep
His warriors wrapt in everlasting sleep;
Success and victory are thine,
Owain Glyndwrdwy
divine!
Dominion, honor, pleasure, praise,
Attend upon thy vigorous days!
And, when thy evening sun is set,
May grateful
Cambria
ne'er forget
Thy noontide blaze; but on thy tomb
Never-fading laurels bloom!
He first appeared in arms in the summer of the year 1400
APPEARS IN ARMS
. He naturally directed his attack against the lands of his enemy lord
Grey;
and immediately recovered what he had unjustly been dispossessed of, during the absence of the former. As soon as the news reached
Henry,
he sent lord
Talbot
and lord
Grey
to reduce him. They arrived with such speed, that they surrounded his house before he had any notice; but he had the good fortune to escape into the woods. He immediately raised a powerful band of men; and, after causing himself to be proclamed prince of
Wales,
on the 20th of
September,
surprized, plundered, and burnt to the ground the town of
Ruthyn,
BURNS RUTHYN.
at the time a fair was held there. After which he retired to his fastnesses among the mountains. One, I imagine to have been the great strength, surrounded by a vast rampart of stones, near
Corwen,
called
Caer Drewyn.
HENRY,
FIRST MARCH OF HENRY AGAINST HIM.
determined to suppress this revolt in the beginning, marched in person against
Owen,
and penetrated as far as the isle of
Anglesea,
putting to the sword all that resisted. He plundered the convent of
Llanvaes
Leland's
Collect.
i. 311.
; slew some of the monks, and took the rest away with him; at length set them at liberty, and made restitution to the monastery; but peopled it again with
English
religious. The monks of
Llanvaes
had been
Franciscans;
an order who were firm adherents to the late prince; and who, in general, were suspected of promoting the insurrection of Glyndwr, and even of inviting him to invade
England.
This occasioned a persecution of them, and several
Ibid.
were executed on that account. Their intelligence with
Glyndwr
is very evident from the favor he shewed the order on the taking of
Cardiff,
in the year 1402; when he burnt the whole town, excepting the street inhabited by the Franciscans
Idem, 313.
.
THE king returned without effecting any material action; for, on his approach,
Owen
retired among the Snowdon hills
Holinshed, 519.
.
THE proclamation for assembling the forces for this expedition, was dated on the 19th of
September,
from
Northampton,
and addressed to the lieutenants of
Warwickshire, Leicester,
and eight other counties; in which all persons capable of bearing arms, within their jurisdiction, were directed to array themselves, and be ready to march to such place as his majesty directed; who acquaints the lieutenants, that he should lie at
Coventry
on his road to
Wales
the
Monday
following
Rymer
's Foedera, viii. 159.
.
ON the same day he issued out an order to the bailifss and good people of
Shrewsbury,
SHREWSBURY SECURED BY HENRY:
to take proper steps to secure that important place; and that they oblige all the
Welsh
resident in the town, to give security for their loyal behaviour; and in case of refusal, to commit them to prison
Idem, 160.
.
ON the eighth of
November
in the same year,
WHO GRANTS OWEN'S ESTATES TO THE EARL OF SOMERSET;
he made a grant of all the estates of
Glyndwr,
in
North
and
South Wales,
to his brother
John
earl of
Somerset
Idem, 163.
; an act as weak as it was irritating: for
Owen
was so far from being in any danger of being dispossessed of them, that at this very time he was growing more powerful by the accession of new forces. It is remarkable, that his revenue in money at this period did not exceed three hundred marks; which shewed that his rents in kind must have been very considerable.
BUT the last public act of this year was conciliating.
AND OZERRS PARDON TO THE WELSH.
The king made one endeavour to bring back the
Welsh
to their allegiance by fair means; and for that end issued a proclamation, on the 30th of
November,
offering to take under his protection all that would resort to the city of
Chester,
and there make their submission to his son
Henry
prince of
Wales;
PRINCE HENRY FIRST APPEARS.
after which they should be at liberty to return to their respective homes
Rymer, viii. 167.
.
Henry
was at that time but twelve years of age; so early was he initiated into state affairs; so early appeared those sparks of genius, which shone afterwards with such brilliancy.
1401
THE first half of this year passed without any memorable action.
OWEN AUGMENTS HIS FORCES.
Owen
was busied in augmenting his forces; he made considerable levies in
Wales;
and received continual addition to his strength, by the great resort of his countrymen of all orders, who had gone into
England
for the sake of education, or to gain a livelihood by different occupations.
THE state of
Henry's
affairs,
STATE OF HENEY'S AFFAIRS AT THIS TIME.
in respect to the
European
monarchs, the badness of his title to the crown of
England,
and the repentance of several of the great men for their disloyalty to their late prince, were circumstances highly in favor of
Glyndwr.
CHARLES VI. of
France,
father-in-law to the unhappy
Richard,
prepared to revenge his deposal and murder. The confusion of his own affairs, luckily for
Henry,
prevented the resentment of the
French
monarch. He contented himself with receiving back, his daughter
Isabel,
and her
paraphernalia:
and
Henry
gladly renewed a truce with him for thirty years.
THE
Scots
taking advantage of his situation, threatened him with invasion. This made it dangerous for him to engage in a distant war, and obliged him to continue for a considerable time in the central parts of his dominion, to act according to the necessity of events. In respect to the
Welsh,
he contented himself with issuing out pardons
Rymer, viii. 181, 182.
, (at the instance of prince
Henry,
) to all that had appeared in arms in the counties of
Caernarvon, Anglesey,
and
Flint,
and the people of
Denbigh
and
Merioneth;
HENRY OFFERS NEW PARDONS.
to the inhabitants of
Chirkland, Bromfield,
and
Yale;
to the hundred of
Oswestry;
and to those of
Ellesmere
and
Whittington;
which I find were then reckoned parts of
Wales. Owen
himleif,
Rice ap Tudor, William ap Tudor,
and all such as were in actual custody, or such who should continue in arms, were excepted. The first pardon was given out the 10th of
May,
the latest, the 5th of
June,
and, as will appear, with some effect.
GLYNDWR's fortune and interest lay, as was before mentioned, both in
North
and in
South Wales.
This summer he marched with a hundred and twenty men of arms, and, with great policy,
OWEN POSTS HIMSELF ON PLINLIMMON.
posted himself on
Plinlimmon
hill, a lofty mountain, the limits of
Cardiganshire
and
Montgomeryshire,
admirably adapted for receiving succours from his vassals and friends in each part of the principality. From hence his followers made plundering excursions, and were the terror of all that declined espousing his cause. The county of
Montgomery
suffered greatly.
PLUNDERS MONTGOMERY.
He sacked the capital town
Leland Itin. v. 4.
, burnt the suburbs of
Pool,
and ravaged all the borders. He destroyed the abby of
Comhere
in
Radnorshire;
took the castle of
Radnor,
and caused the whole garrison, to the number of threescore,
BEHEADS SIXTY MEN.
to be beheaded on the brink of the castle-yard
Ibid.
. The provocation to this piece of cruelty does not appear.
THE
Flemings,
inhabitants of
Ross, Pembroke,
and
Cardiganshire,
suffered so greatly from
Glyndwr,
that they determined to attempt to remove so troublesome a neighbour.
SURPRISED;
They assembled a body of fifteen hundred men, and made so expeditious a march, as to surround
Owen
and his forces, at a place called
Mynydd Hyddgant,
before he had any notice of their approach. They hemmed him in on every side; and, notwithstanding he could make no retreat without great disadvantage, he made a long; and manful defence. At length, finding it impossible to subsist in that place, he determined to cut a passage through the enemy, or perish in the attempt.
YET DEFEATS THE ENEMY.
He knew that neither he nor his men were to expect any mercy; so, actuated by despair, they fell furiously on the
Flemings,
and, after a strong dispute, flung them into great disorder; which
Owen
taking advantage of, redoubled his attack, and at length put them to night, leaving two hundred of their party dead on the spot.
THIS victory added greatly to the reputation of
Glyndwr.
Multitudes resorted to his standard, and contributed to make him a most formidable enemy.
HENRY, alarmed at his successes, marched a second time in person.
HENRY'S SECOND MARCH.
He entered
Wales
with a great army about the beginning of
June
Vita
R.
II. 174.
, destroyed the abby of
Strathfleur
in
Cardiganshire,
and ravaged the country; but was obliged to make a disgraceful retreat, after his forces had suffered greatly by famine, and the great fatigues they continually underwent.
THE monk of
Evesham
Vita R. ii. 174
relates an instance of paternal affection, much to the honor of our country. A
Welshman,
having made a rash promise to the king to betray
Glyndwr,
refused afterwards to perform it; and, eagerly stretching out his neck to the headsman, told him to strike, for that he had two sons at that time in the service of his chieftain; therefore would on no account reveal his councils, which would prove so penal to them.
IT is probable,
CORRUPTS SOME OF OWEN'S FRIENDS.
that during this expedition
Henry
found means to corrupt the fidelity of several of the friends of
Glyndwr;
for we find a free pardon granted to
William ap Tudor,
(a gentleman who had been excepted in the pardon of last year) and to thirty-one principal persons of the country. This is dated from
Westminster
on the 8th of
July
Rymer, viii. 209.
.
THIS defection seemed to have very little effect on the spirit of
Glyndwr.
He acquired new friends, and such addition of strength, that the king resolved to go again in person against him. He issued out his orders to the lieutenants of
Devonshire,
and one and twenty other counties, to repair with their forces to
Worcester
Ibid, 225.
on the first of
October.
Our old historians are silent about the event of this expedition; but Mr.
Carte
says, that it was unfortunate as the former.
MAKES A THIRD EXPEDITION.
Thus concluded the transactions of this year.
1402.
THIS year was ushered in with a comet,
A COMET.
or blazing-star; which the bards interpreted as an omen favourable to the cause of
Glyndwr.
It served to infuse spirit into the minds of a superstitious people: the first success of their chieftain confirmed their belief, and gave new vigor to their actions.
LORD GREY was the first that felt the effects of
Owen's
power. That nobleman, strongly attached to
Henry,
and impatient of the injuries which he and his friends received from
Glyndwr,
raised a considerable army; encountered him; was defeated, and made prisoner.
OWEN DEFEATS LORD GREY.
Historians differ about the scene of action. The
Welsh
lay it on the banks of the
Fyrnwy,
in the county of
Montgomery.
The
English
say that it was in the neighborhood of
Ruthyn;
and that
Owen
advancing towards the castle with a party of men, drew his incautious rival into the field, where he fell into an ambush, and was taken, and carried fast bound into confinement, amidst the savage fastnesses of the
Snowdon
hills
Vita
Ricardi
II. 178.
. This relation seems probable, not only as the castle of
Ruthyn
was the chief seat of lord
Grey,
but a fortress of such strength as to baffle all attempts of
Glyndwr,
in the infancy of his insurrection, without having recourse to stratagem.
LORD GREY remained for a long time in captivity,
MAKES HIM PAY A GREAT RANSOM
nor did he gain his liberty till he paid to him the vast sum of ten thousand marks. He was such a personal favorite with the king, who, pitying the severity with which he was treated, and admiring the firmness with which he resisted the offers of
Glyndwr
to make him swerve from his loyalty, that his majesty issued out a special commission, dated the 10th of
October
in this year, empowering Sir
William de Roos,
Sir
Richard de Grey,
Sir
William de Willughby,
Sir
William de Zouch, John Henry, William Vans,
John Lee, John Longford, Thomas Payne,
and
John Elnstow,
to treat with
Owen
and his council about the ransom. It was agreed to pay six thousand marks on the day of St.
Martin
Rymer, viii. 279.
following, and give, as hostages for the payment of the remainder, his eldest son, and some other persons. And, in order to raise the money,
Henry
gave licence to
Robert Braybrook
Dagdale's Baron. i. 717.
bishop of
London,
and two others, feoffees of divers lordships for lord
Grey,
to sell the lordship of
Herteleigh
in
Kent.
He also absolved him for six years from the forfeiture of two-thirds of the profits of his
Irish
estates, usually exacted from such who were non-resident in that kingdom.
AFTER this he was set at liberty, and he and his tenants suffered to enjoy their property without molestation. It is probable, that
Owen
engaged his lordship to observe a neutrality, as another term of redemption. Lord
Grey
seemed likewise to think it necessary to secure both his people and himself by an alliance with
Owen;
for no sooner was he released, than he married
Jane,
AND MARRY ONE OF HIS DAUGHTERS.
third daughter of the furious chieftain. He had no issue by this lady. The match was probably compulsive; at best, political. Some of the
English
historians pretend that he died in captivity: but that he obtained his liberty, and long survived this treaty, is evident: for in 1409, he was ordered by
Henry
to his estates, to repel the ravages his father-in-law made on the borders. He even lived to serve in the
French
wars in the reign of
Henry
V. and his successor, and died in the year 1440
Collins's Peerage, ii. 382.
.
OWEN, after securing this potent enemy, began to give a free rein to his revenge; to punish such of his countrymen whom he considered as traitors to the generous cause of freedom, by an unnatural adherence to the
English,
whose yoke they had borne for such a length of time.
HE burnt the houses of
Kevn y fan,
and
Cesail-gyfarch,
belonging to
Jevan ap Meredyth,
a partizan of the house of
Lancaster;
and to whom, and
Meredyth ap Hwlkin Llwyd
of
Glyn-l
ivon
was intrusted (under an
English
captain) the castle of
Caernarvon.
This place was so closely blocked up by the friends of
Glyndwr,
that
Jevan
happening to die there at that time, it was found necessary to carry his corpse by sea, in order to inter it in the parishchurch of
Penmorva,
on the other side of the county
Hist. Gwedir. 53.
.
HOWEL SELE of
Nannau
in
Merionethshire,
STORY OR HOWEL SELE.
first cousin to
Owen,
had a harder fate. He likewise was an adherent to the house of
Lancaster. Owen
and this chieftain had been long at variance. I have been informed, that the abbot of
Kymmer,
near
Dolgellu,
in hopes of reconciling them, brought them together, and to all appearance effected his charitable design. While they were walking out,
Owen
observed a doe feeding, and told
Howel,
who was reckoned the best archer of his days, that there was a fine mark for him.
Howel
bent his bow, and, pretending to aim at the doe, suddenly turned and discharged the arrow full at the breast of
Glyndwr,
who fortunately had armour beneath his cloaths, so received no hurt. Enraged at this treachery, he seized on
Sole,
burnt his house, and hurried him away from the place; nor could ever any one learn how he was disposed of: till, forty years after, the skeleton of a large man, such as
Howel,
was discovered in the hollow of a great oak, in which
Owen
was supposed to have immured him in reward of his persidy. The ruins of the old house are to be seen in
Nannau
park, a mere compost of cinders and ashes.
IT must be observed, that when
Owen
was carrying him away, his relation
Gryffydd ap Gwyn,
of
Ganllwyd
in
Ardudwy,
attempted his rescue, but was defeated with the loss of numbers of his men, and of his houses of
Berthlwyd
and
Cesn Coch,
which were burnt to ashes.
IT was about this period that
Owen
wreaked his revenge on the ecclesiastics who had favored the cause of the
English.
BURNS ST. AS
PH AND BANGOR.
His conduct in this instance fe
rs indefensible, for he paid no regard to the most sacred edifices, but sacrilegiously destroyed the cathedrals of
Bangor
and St.
Asaph,
with the episcopal palace, and the canons houses belonging to the last. He vented, in a particular manner, his resentment against the last; as the bishop,
John Trevor,
received his preferment from
Richard,
OF BISHOP TREVOR.
yet was so disloyal as to pronounce against his unfortunate master the sentence of deposition, in favor of the usurping
Henry;
and afterwards to accept an embassy to the court of
Spain,
to justify
Bolingbroke
's proceedings to the reigning prince.
HENRY considered him as a sufferer in his cause; therefore gave power to the bishops of
Hereford, Voltorno,
and
Bangor,
to suffer him to hold in
commendam
the living of
Meivod,
with the chapels of
Pool
and
Kegidva,
or
Guilsfield,
in order to support his dignity during the ravage of his diocese
Rymer,
viii.222.246; the bishop of
Voltorno
probably acted as the pope's legate.
.
TREVOR returned to
England
about the time of the destruction of his cathedral. Two years after this, he revolted from
Henry,
and joined with
Glyndwr,
to whom he adhered the rest of his days. He appeared in arms with him in the year 1409
Rymer, viii. 588.
. In the year following, on the decline of
Owen
's affairs, he retired to
Paris,
died, and was buried in the chapel of the infirmary of the abby
de St. Victoire
there; and the following epitaph inscribed to his memory: Hic jacet Reverendus in CHRISTO Pater
Jobannes
Episcopus
Asaphensis
in
Wallia,
qui obiit A. D. 1410. Die Veneris x mensis
Aprilis;
cujus anima feliciter requieseat in pace.
Amen.
GLYNDWR was pleased to confirm
Trevor
in his see,
OWEN CONFIRMS HIM IN HIS SEE;
on returning to his allegiance; but deposed from that of
Bangor
Willi
's Bangor, 84.
Richard Younge,
AND DEPOSES THE BISHOP OF BANGOR.
for his adherence to the usurper, and kept him in close confinement.
Owen
also appointed in his room
Llewelyn,
or, as some call him,
Lewis Bifort;
whose name is mentioned in 1406, among the chief of the inhabitants fined or outlawed on account of
Glyndwr
's insurrection in the isle of
Anglesey.
He afterwards joined with the earl of
Northumberland
and lord
Bardolph,
and was taken prisoner in the castle of
Bramham Moor,
in
February
1407-8, when those two noblemen were slain: but the bishop's life was spared, as he was found unarmed
Goodwin, 618.
.
HENRY was alarmed at the successes of
Glyndwr,
and resolved to march in person against him once more. He issued out w
ts
Rymer, viii. 264.
to the lieutenants of
Nottingham
and
Derby,
and to those of thirty two other counties, dated from the castle of
B.
,
June
5th; in which he requires them to assemble the forces of their respective jurisdictions, and to attend him at
Lichfield
on the 7th of
July,
in order to suppress this dangerous revolt.
BEFORE the king could assemble his forces, news arrived of the great victory which
Glyndwr
obtained, on the 22d of
June,
GAINS A GREAT VICTORY AT PILLETH.
over Sir
Edmund Mortimer. Owen,
after the defeat of lord
Grey,
pursued his resentment against all the chieftains unfavorable to his designs; advanced with his army towards
Herefordshire,
and the borders of
South Wales;
and carried fire and sword through the lands of his opponents. None suffered so severely as the vassals and tenants of
Edward Mortimer
earl of
March,
a child of ten years of age, who, with his brother
Roger,
was in the custody of the king at that time.
Henry
was very sensible of the just title this child had to the crown, being desended from
Lionel
duke of
Clarence,
third son to
Edward
III. His title had even been acknowleged in parlement. This increased his majesty's apprehensions, and made him consider the misfortunes of that family the strengthening of his own throne.
SIR EDMUND MORTIMER, uncle to this youth, unable any longer to bear the depredations of
Owen,
collected a large body of his nephew's tenants and retainers out of the county of
Hereford,
and the adjacent parts, particularly from
Melienydd
in
Radnorshire,
and with these marched against the invader. A bloody action ensued on
Bryn-glas,
a mountain near
Pilleth,
a little south-west of
Knighton,
in
Radnorshire.
Victory declared in favor of our countryman. Some writers assert, that the archers of
Mortimer
's army bent their bows against their own party
Stow, 327.
. Another says
Vita
Ricardi
II. 178.
, that
March
's
Welsh
tenants took to flight at the first onset, and occasioned the defeat. The loss chiefly fell on the people of
Herefordshire.
Eleven hundred fell on the side of
Mortimer.
The shamefull villanie used by the
Welshwomen
towards the dead carcasses,
says
Holinshed,
was such as honest eares would be ashamed to heare, and continent toongs to speak thereof. The dead bodies might not be buried, without great summes of monie given for libertie to conveie them awaie
Holinshed,
520; who relates it from
Walsingham.
Those who wish to read the horrid tale, may consult the last, p. 557.
Camdeni Script. Angl.
.
SHAKESPEAR flings a fine horror over this dreadful tale, in relating,
When, all athwart there came
A post from
Wales
loaden with heavy news;
Whose worst was, that the noble
Mortimir,
Leading the men of
Herefordshire
to fight
Against the irregular and wild
Glendower,
Was by the rude hands of that
Welshman
taken;
A thousand of his people butchered,
Upon whose dead corpse there was such misuse,
Sach beastly, shameless transformation
By those
Welshwomen
done, as may not be,
Without much shame, re-told or spoken of.
I WISH I could exculpate my countrywomen from this heavy charge. It originates from
Thomas de Walsmgham,
an historian who, it must be confessed, wrote within forty years of this event. To his authority I beg leave to oppose that of another antient writer, who ascribes these barbarities to a follower of
Glyndwr,
one
Rees a Gyrch
Vita
Ricardi,
175.
. I flatter myself that this was the case; for, had it been otherwise, it would have been totally unnecessary to discourage the
English,
by an express law
Statute 4th
Henry
IV. c. 34.
, from marrying with such furies as the
Welshwomen
were represented to have been.
MANY historians pretend, that the young earl of
March
was present at this defeat; was made prisoner; and, to ensure his allegiance, obliged to marry a daughter of
Glyndwr.
But at this time he endured another species of confinement at
Windsor:
his uncle commanded the forces of the family,
TAKES PRISONER SIR EDMUND MORTIMER
and lost his liberty in the battle. Great instances were made to
Henry
for leave to ransom him; but the jealous king, rejoicing in the misfortunes of this rival house, suffered him to continue in the power of his enemy; alleging, that Sir
Edmund
had treacherously flung himself into the hands of
Glyndwr.
AFTER this victory,
Glyndwr
received from all parts of
Wales
accession of strength. Notwithstanding
Henry
was indifferent about the fate of the
Mortimers,
his own safety now required him to act with vigor. The design of assembling his army at
Lichfield
was laid aside. New writs were issued out, dated the 31st of
July.
It was resolved to distract the
Welsh
by three invasions from different quarters. The rendevous of the first army was to be at
Shrewshury,
to be commanded by the king in person; the second at
Hereford,
to be assembled by
Edmund
earl of
Stafford, Richard
earl of
Warwick,
and the lords
Grey, Alergavenny, Audeley,
and
Berkly;
and the third, under the conduct of prince
Henry,
at
Chester.
The forces were to be assembled at each place by the 27th of
August
Rymer, viii. 271.
.
OWEN, assured that these preparations could not take effect till a certain time, gave loose to his resentment, in the beginning of
August,
against the inhabitants of
Glamorganshire,
who had sided with the
English.
RAVAGES GLAMORGANSHIRE.
He marched into that county, ravaged it on all parts; and, after burning the bishop's castle and the archdeacon's house
Willis's Llandaff, 30, 31.
at
Llandaff,
in the same inroad he likewise burnt
Cardiff
and
Abergavenny;
and then returned to make head against the
English.
THE
Scots,
at this time, took advantage of the commotions of the
Welsh;
and, under the command of the great
Douglas,
invaded
England
with a body of twelve or thirteen thousand men. It is almost certain, that they acted in concert with
Glyndwr.
Both nations were united in a common hatred of the
English.
Both had felt the weight of their power. The
Scots meditated
their inroad at the very time that
Henry
had drawn his forces to the borders of
Wales,
and, as they hoped, left the northern borders unguarded.
Henry
had intelligence, that it was to take place on the assumption of the blessed Virgin, or the 15th of
August;
and, in order to defeat it, directed the lieutenant of the county of
Lincoln
to hasten towards the north, with all the men he could raise.
HENRY,
HENRY'S FOURTH MARCH.
during this time, proceeded on his expedition against the
Welsh.
It does not appear whether the army under his son, and that under the earl of
Arundel
(on whom the command of the second army was bestowed) made separate diversions into different parts of the country in his favor; or whether he united their forces with his own. The event of his invasion was very unfortunate.
Glyndwr,
who had too much prudence to hazard a battle against so superior an army, retired to the fastnesses of the mountains; and drove away the cattle, and destroyed every means the
English
had of subsistence. The season proved uncommonly bad; for the very elements seem to have warred against them.
UNSUCCESSFUL.
A continued course of storms and rains, with the continual watching against an enemy ever hovering over them, and ready to take every occasion of falling on them from the heights, wasted the army with sickness and fatigue; and obliged the king once more to make a most inglorious retreat.
THE
English,
OWEN REPUTED A MAGICIAN.
willing to cover their shame, attributed the cause of their disgrace to the incantations of the
British
chieftain; 'who,' as an old historian expresses,
through art magike (as was thought) caused such foule weather of winds, tempest, raine, snow, and haile, to be raised for the annoiance of the king's armie, that the like had not beene heard of.
Perhaps
Glyndwr,
as well to infuse terror into his foes, as to give his people a more exalted notion of him, might politically insinuate his skill in spells and charms, that they might suppose him aided by more than mortal power. This species of credulity was not only strong at this time, but even continued to more enlightened days.
OWEN, by the mouth of
Shakespear,
speaks thus of his intercourse with the tribe of spints, and of his skill in the mystic arts of divination:
Where is he living, clipt in with the sea
That chides the banks of
England, Wales,
or
Scotland,
Who calls me pupil, or has read to me?
And bring him out, that is but woman's son,
Can trace me in the tedious ways of art,
Or hold me pace in deep experiments.
I can call spirits from the vasty deep!
THE poet, on this occasion, plays finely with the warmth of
Glyndwr;
and draws from him that characteristic spirit of our country, which is nobly prompt to rise on the appearance, or sometimes even on the very apprehension of insult.
HENRY quickly received news from the north, that served to alleviate the ill success of his invasion. The earl of
Northumberland,
and other northern barons, had assembled their forces to oppose the
Scots,
then on their return home; overtook them on
Holyrood
-day, or the 15th of
September,
BATTLE OF HOMELDON:
on
Homeldon
hill near
Wooler,
and gained over them a complete victory. Numbers of the
Scotch
nobility were slain in the fight; and numbers taken, among whom was their gallant commander
Archibald
earl or
Douglas,
styled by his countrymen
Tyneman,
from the loss of men that attended him in all his conflicts.
THIS battle was productive of great events; and proved in the end the destruction of the
Percy
family. It was usual for the prisoners to fall to the share of the victors; and that each person who was fortunate or brave enough to make a captive, should receive the reward of his valor, by having liberty to ransom him, according to his rank or abilities.
ITS CONSEQUENCES.
Henry Percy
surnamed
Hotspur,
had himself, by the fortune of war, been made prisoner by the
Scots,
and was redeemed according to the antient custom of arms. The victors at this time expected and clamed the same right; but
Henry,
wishing to detain, as hostages for the peaceable conduct of the
Scottish
nation, these illustrious captives, sent directions to the earl of
Northumberland,
that he should by no means set them at liberty; but that he should deliver them to him.
Henry
softened this demand by rewarding
Northumberland
with a considerable grant of lands on the borders of
Scotland
Rymer, viii. 289.
; and parlement even sent him a letter of thanks for his good services.
THE PERCIES DISCONTENTED;
Notwithstanding this, the
Percies
were greatly dissatisfied. Whether their high spirit resented the invasion of the antient title of victors to their prisoners; or whether they were seized with remorse for their disloyalty to their former master; or whether they were actuated by the ambition of becoming independent; or whether all these causes might not cooperate, is not very certain; yet, from this time, they formed their design of flinging off their allegiance to
Henry.
A GREAT discontent with his government at this period began to seize the nation. The affection for the murdered
Richard
revived. So willing were the people to imagine him still alive, that the many reports invented on that subject were greedily swallowed; and a proneness to revolt almost generally appeared.
THE first step taken by the
Percies,
was the release of the
Scottish
prisoners without ransom.
RELEASE THEIR PRISONERS.
This gained the heart of
Douglas;
who went home, raised a body of men, and joined in the enterprize.
SIR EDMUND MORTIMER,
GLYNDWR SETS MORTIMER AT LIBERTY.
from the time of his defeat, was treated with the utmost humanity and respect.
Glyndwr,
politically determined to make use of this important prisoner as an instrument of his ambition, reminded him of the right of his, house to the crown of
England,
and flattered him with the hopes of restoring it to the throne
Vita
Ricardi
II. 179.
of his ancestors. The
Percies,
to whom he was allied, had made frequent instances to
Henry
for his ransom, who, on false and injurious pretences, constantly refused attention to their request; notwithstanding, he never rested till he had procured the enlargement of his favorite, lord
Grey.
THE
Percies
now began to extend their views; and to form a confederacy that promised fair to effect another revolution. They entered into an alliance with
Glyndwr;
obtained the release of
Mortimer;
and, like the famous triumvirate of
Rome,
determined to divide the empire between them.
THEIR place of meeting,
CONSPIRACY OF THE PERCIES:
the
Mutina
of these heroes, was at the house of
David Daron,
or of
Aberdaron,
dean of
Bangor
Willis's Bangor, 122.
, son of
Evan ap Dafydd ap Gryffydd,
descended from
Caradoc ap Jestyn,
a prince of
Wales.
He was a man of interest and wealth; entered strongly into their views; and in consequence, in the year 1406, was outlawed for his attachment to them.
HERE the three chieftains formed the division of
Britain.
UNITE WITH GLYNDWR.
Sir Edmund Mortimer,
in behalf of his nephew the earl of
March,
took all the country from the
Trent
and
Seven
to the eastern and southern limits of the island;
Northumberland
was to have all the counties north of the
Trent;
and
Glyndwr
every thing that lay beyond the
Severn
westward.
IT was on this occasion that
Owen,
to animate his countrymen, called up the antient prophecy, which predicted the destruction of
Henry,
under the name of the
Moldwarp, cursed of
GOD'S
own mouth.
Himself he styled the
dragon;
a name he assumed in imitatation of
Uther,
whose victories over the
Saxons
were foretold by the appearance of a star with a dragon beneath; which
Uther
used as his badge; and on that account it became a favorite one with the
Welsh.
On
Percy
he bestowed the title of
lion,
from the crest of the family; on
Mortimer,
that of the
wolf,
probably from a similar reason. And these three were to divide the realm between them.
GLYNDWR was now in the meridian of his glory.
CONCENTION OF THE ESTATES OF WALES.
He assembled the estates of
Wales
at
Machynlleth,
a town of
Montgomeryshire:
he caused there his title to the principality to be acknowleged, and was formally crowned.
AT this meeting he narrowly escaped assassination.
DAVID GAM CONSPIRES AGAINST OWEN.
Among the chieftains, who appeared to support his title, came a gentleman of
Brecknockshire, David Gam,
or the one-eyed; a man, says Mr.
Carte
ii. 654.
, who held his estate of the honor of
Hereford,
who had long been in the service of
Bolingbrook,
and was firmly attached to his interest. Notwithstanding he had married a sister of
Glyndwr,
yet such a furious hatred had he conceived to his cause, that he appeared at the assembly with the secret and treacherous resolution of murdering his prince and brother-in-law.
Carte
says, that he was instigated to it by
Henry;
but gives no authority for his assertion. Party-zeal, or hopes of reward, probably determined him to so nefarious a deed, He was a fit instrument for the purpose: a man of unshaken courage; which was afterwards put to the proof in the following reign, at the battle of
Azincourt.
This was the gentleman who was sent to explore the numbers of the enemy before the action; and who informed the king, that there were
enough to kill, enough to be taken prisoners, and enough to run away.
In the battle,
David,
his son-in-law
Roger Vychan,
and his relation
Waltar Llwyd,
rescued the king, when environed with his foes. They saved his life at the expence of their own, and fell with many mortal wounds. The king, after the victory, approached the place where they lay weltering in their blood; and, in the moment of death, bestowed on them the only reward of their valor which he could confer in that sad time, the honor of knighthood.
BUT to return to the subject immediately under consideration.
DETECTED
The plot of
David
against
Glyndwr
was discovered. He was arrested and imprisoned; and would have met with his merited punishment, if he had not been saved by the intercession of
Owen
's best friends and warmest partizans
Wynne's
Hist.
Wales, 321.
. He was pardoned on a solemn promise of attachment to the cause of
Glyndwr
and his country. It appears, that our chieftain did not chuse to rely on his promise; but kept him in close confinement till the year 1412, as will appear in the transaction of that period.
GLYNDWR, as usual, wreaked his vengeance on the lands and dependents of
Dafydd Gam;
entered his country, and burnt his house; and, while it was burning, calling one of
David
's tenants, spoke thus merrily to him in verse; which shews the general turn of our people to the rhyming art:
O gweli di wr coch Cam
Yn ymofyn y Gyrnigwen:
Dywed ei bod hi tan y lan
A nôd y glo ar ei phen.
1403.
PREPARATIONS were made with great vigor by all parties.
HOTSPUR MARCHES TO SHREWSBURY.
Hotspur,
leaving his father ill at
Berwick,
marched with his forces from the north; and, passing through
Cheshire,
a county ever affectionate to
Richard,
was joined there by a numerous party.
Percy
sent to
Owen,
to desire he would meet him; but our countryman declined to comply: howsoever, numbers of the
Welsh
joined
Hotspur,
and marched with him to
Lichfield,
carrying the stag, the badge of the late king, as a party distinction. In that city he published his reasons for taking arms against
Henry,
whom the family had so lately placed on the throne
Leland
Collect. ii. 312.
. From hence he led his army towards
Shrewshury;
probably because he found himself too weak to attack the usurper; for it seems as if his intention had been to have met him on his march, had
Glyndwr
joined him with his whole force.
Glyndwr,
on the other hand, had formed a considerable army in
Wales;
and Sir
Edmund Mortimer
had raised the vassals of his nephew.
IN the month of
March, Henry
gave a strong proof of the high opinion he had of his son
Henry
of
Monmouth,
afterwards king of
England,
at this time only fifteen years of age; for by writ, dated from
Westminster
the 7th of that month, he appoints him his lieutenant for
Wales
Rymer, viii. 291.
and all the adjacent counties, with full powers to raise men, and to act against the insurgents as he should think proper: to enquire into all treasons; to examine who supplied the rebels with arms or provisions; and to grant pardon to all who would lay down their arms, and give security for their peaceful behaviour.
HAVING thus provided, as he imagined, for the security of the borders of
England
on the side of
Wales,
he began to consider of his march against the
Percies.
But hearing that
Glyndwr
Idem, 304.
, by reason of want of provisions, was preparing to make an inroad into the borders, issued orders from
Westminster,
dated
June
12th, to the lieutenant of
Gloucestershire
Idem, 314.
, to prepare to repel the invasion, with forces he should assemble for that purpose.
Henry
then made a most expeditious march to
Burton
upon
Trent,
where we find him on the 16th, on his way against the northern rebels
Rymer.
.
HENRY GOES TO MEET HIM.
Here he understood that
Percy,
with his army, had advanced towards
Shrewshury,
and was preparing to effect a junction with the forces of
Glyndwr
and
Mortimer.
He well knew the importance of preventing it from taking place; and directed his
march
towards that town, as is said, by the advice of the earl of
Dunbar,
a
Scottish
nobleman, who had espoused his cause. The dispatch with which the king executed this resolution, saved his crown.
Glyndwr,
who had assembled his forces at
Oswestry,
had sent off only his first division, amounting to four thousand men, who behaved with spirit in the day of action
Holinshed, 523.
; in which fell his brother-in-law Sir
Jenkin Hanmer
Collins's Baronets, ii. 236. ed. 1720.
.
Henry
prevented him from proceeding with the rest, by posting himself between
Glyndwr
and
Shrewsbury,
and at the critical time that the northern rebels were about to scale the walls.
Percy
quitted the attempt; and, after rejecting the offer of peace, attacked the royal army at
Battlefield,
three miles from the place.
PERCY DEFBATED AND SLAIN.
He behaved with the spirit worthy of his name; fell valiantly, and with him the hopes of his party. This action happened on the 21st of
June. Glyndwr
had the mortification of being obliged to remain all the time inactive, at the head of twelve thousand men, at
Oswestry.
GLYNDWR CONTINUES AT OSWESTRY.
The
Welsh
historians pass an unjust censure on him for his conduct on this occasion, and blame him for what, it seems, he could not effect. His great oversight appears to me to have been the neglect of attacking
Henry
immediately after the battle, when the royal forces had sustained a vast loss, and were overcome with fatigue; when his own followers, and the remains of the northern troops, would have formed an army nearly double to that of the king; when
Northumberland,
now recovered from his illness, was in full march towards him, the army of
Mortimer
entire, that of the king constrained to go northward.
Glyndwr
carried on a marauding war, and plundered the now defenceless marches. The king returned successful from the north to the borders of
Wales,
determined to chastise the insurgents; but was obliged to desist from his enterprize, for want of money to pay his troops, and provisions to subsist them. He did propose to remedy the first, by seizing on the superfluous wealth of the prelates; but was prevented by the spirit of the archbishop of
Canterbury,
who boldly declared, that none of his province should be spoiled on any account; which frustrated
Henry
's intent on
Glyndwr.
The prelate was afterwards better advised, and made a grant of the tenth towards the king's necessary charges
Helinshed, 524.
NOTHING more was done this year than the securing the
Welsh
castles,
HANRY SECURES THE WELEN CASTLES.
and placing over them persons of known fidelity. The king dates his writ from
Worcester,
the 8th of
September;
and, addressing it to
Guy Mohun
bishop of St.
David,
at that time keeper of the privy-seal, and treasurer of
England,
commits to him the custody of the castle of
Llangadyn;
that of
Llanyndovery
to
John Touchet
lord
Audley; Laghern
to Sir
Henry le Scrope; Crickhowel
to
John Pauncefort; Tretour
to
James Berkley; Ahergavenny
and
Harald Ewyas
to Sir
William Beauchamp; Goderych
to Sir
Thomas Nevil de Furnivale; Erdesley
to Sir
Nicholas Montgomery; Carleon
and
Usk
to Sir
Edward Charlton
of
Powys; Caerph
lli
and
Gwialacy
to
Constantia
lady
Despenser; Menerbere
to Sir
John Cornwall; Payne Castle
and
Royl
to
Thomas
earl of
Warwick; Huntyngdon
to
Anne
countess of
Stafford; Lynhales
and
Dorston
to Sir
Walter Fitz-Walter; Stepulton
to
John Brian
baron of
Bursord; Brawpton
to
Brian de Brampton;
and to Sir
John Chandos
the castle of Snowdon
Rymer, viii. 328.
.
THE last public act relating to the insurrections of die marches, was to empower the prince of
Wales
to treat with certain
Cheshire
Idem, 333.
gentlemen about their fines, for appearing in arms in the battle of
Shrowshury.
ON the 14th and 15th of the same month, he gives power to
William Beauchamp
to pardon certain of the vassals on his lands of
Abergavenny
and
Ewyas Harald,
who had appeared in arms in behalf of
Glyndwr;
and to the famous Sir
John Oldcastle, John ap Henry,
and
John Fairsord,
clerk, to pardon the inhabitants of
Brecknock, Built, Cancresselly, Hay, Glynbough,
and
Dynas;
to receive their weapons; and to oblige them to take an oath of fidelity. In this the king only secures their persons, but reserves to himself their forfeited lands, goods, and chattels. The first is dated from
Hereford;
the other from
Devenok
Idem, 331. Idem.
.
1404.
NOTWITHSTANDING the
French
king had consented,
CONDUCT OF THE FRENCH.
through the necessity of his own affairs, to a truce of thirty years with
Henry,
yet he never could be brought to acknowlege his title to the crown. In his treaties,
Charles
styles him only
notre cousin d'Angleterre
Idem.
, or
Henry
of
Lancaster,
or our adversary of
England,
or the successor of the late king
Richard
Carte, ii. 656.
. There is all the appearance of a correspondence between
Charles
and the
English
and
Welsh
insurgents in the last year; and that the expedition towards
Shrewshury,
and an invasion of
England
by the
French,
were concerted, to distract the attention of
Henry.
Their fleets hovered over our coasts under other pretences. They even landed in the isle of
Wight,
and did considerable damage to the country.
AN open war was daily expected with
France.
The parlement took the safety of the king's person into consideration. His houshold was regulated; and in particular, it was ordered, that no
Frenchman
or
Welshman
should remain about his majesty's person
Parliamentary Hist. ii. 79.
.
THE wisdom of this provision soon became very apparent.
GLYNDWR SENDS EMBASSADORS TO CHARLES VII.
A league, offensive and defensive, was formed between
Charles
and
Owen. Owen
sent his chancellor
Griffith Yonge,
doctor of laws, and his kinsman
John Hanmer,
embassadors to the
French.
Their appointment is dated from
Dolgellu,
in a princely style:
Datum apud
Doleguelii, 10
die mensis
Maii, MCCCC.
quarto et principalus nostri quarto;
and begins, OWINUS
Dei gratia princeps
WALLIAe, &c.
Rymer, viii. 356.
CHARLES received them with open arms. The league was signed at
Paris
on the 14th of
June.
The persons that acted on the part of
Charles
were
James Bourbon
earl of
March,
and
John
bishop of
Carnot.
LEAGUE CONCLUDED BETWEEN THEM.
Owen
's ambassadors signed their part on the 14th of
July,
in the house of
Ferdinand de Corbey,
chancellor of
France;
several prelates and persons of high rank attending as witnesses
Rymer, viii. 365, 366, 367.
.
Glyndwr
ratified this treaty on the 12th
of.
1405, from his castle of
Lampadarn
Idem, 382.
.
THE affairs of
Glyndwr
bore so prosperous an aspect, that about this time
Trovor
bishop of
St. Asaph
revolted from
Henry,
and joined with his countryman; whether actuated by remorse for his dealings with his old master, or tempted by the hopes of preferment under a new government, is not evident.
OWEN opened the campaign of this year with vigor. He laid waste the country of his enemies; took several castles,
GLYNDWR RETEATS BEFORE THE ENGLISH:
among others, those of
Harlech
and
Aherystwyth.
Some he dismantled, and others he reserved, and garrisoned. He then directed his march into
Montgomeryshire,
and fell in with an
English
army at
Mynydd cwm du.
They attacked him, slew many of his men, and obliged him to retreat. He soon repaired this disgrace; for, collecting his forces again, he pursued the victors with such expedition,
DEFEATS THEM.
that he overtook them at a place called
Craig y Dorth,
near
Monmouth;
defeated, and pursued them to the very gates of every town or castle they had fled to.
THE
English
historians mention the defeat of
Glyndwr.
They inform us, that the
English
army was commanded by
Richard Beauchamp
earl of
Warwick,
who took the banner of
Glyndwr
Dugdale's Baron, i, 243.
; but are silent in respect of the revenge that so immediately followed. The king undertook nothing this year against
Glyndwr. Beauchamp
had large possessions in the county of
Monmouth,
and found it requisite to raise his vassals to preserve his country from desolation.
1405.
THIS year opened with an attempt of a very extraordinary nature; nothing less than to free from their confinement the young earl of
March
and his brother,
ATTEMPTS TO STEAL AWAY THE EARE OF MARCH.
with the intent of setting up the title of the first first that of
Henry,
and to involve the whole kingdom in his quarrel. There were many engaged in the design.
Wales
was to have been his asylum, and
Glyndwr
his protector: such deep intelligence had he with the dissaffected, even near the seat of the court.
March
was kept in close custody at
Windsor,
a royal residence, amidst guards, and secured by every precaution that a jealous usurper could invent. Notwithstanding, a plot was laid.
Constance
lady
Spencer,
widow to lord
Spencer,
and sister to the duke of
York,
contrived their deliverance. She procured false keys, stole away the two youths, and was hastening with them towards
Wales,
when they were seized and brought back. The lady was imprisoned. A severer fate attended the poor smith that made the keys, who was beheaded, after having both his hands chopped off
Holinshed, 527.
.
FORTUNE now began to frown upon
Glyndwr.
The first experience he had of her mutability was on the 11th of
March:
BATTLE OF USKE;
a body of his partizans, to the amount of eight thousand, had assembled out of
Glamorganshire, Uske, Netherwent,
and
Overwent.
As usual, they began their march with desolating the country; and burnt part of the town of
Grosmont,
in the county of
Monmouth. Henry
prince of
Wales
was at that time at
Heresord,
with the army entrusted to him by his father, ready to open the campaign. He there received an account of the defeat of these malecontents, by a handful of men commanded by Sir
Gilbert Talbot,
joined by Sir
William Newport
and Sir
John Greindre.
He transmitted the account to his father, in a letter written in an uncommon strain of piety and dutifulness, contradictory to the popular opinion of his early licentiousness; for at that time he was only seventeen years of age. He begins with imploring Heaven for its favor towards his father:
Je supplie vraiement que
DIEU
vous montre graciousment pour vous son miracle on toutes parties, loez soit il en toutes ses ocures.—Il est bien voirs, que la victoire n'est pas en le multitude de people mes en la puissance de
DIEU.
IT seems that the
Welsh
forgot the antient spirit of their country; and yielded an easy victory to the enemy. Eight hundred or a thousand were stain. No quarter was given on the occasion, except to one person,
un grant chiefteyn entre eulx.
The humanity of young
Henry
appears to great advantage on this affair. He tells his father, that he would have sent the prisoner to him, but that he could not yet ride with any ease (I suppose on account of his wounds)
mes il ne poet chivacher uncore a son aise
Rymer, viii. 390.
.
To repair this disaster,
Glyndwr
instantly sent one of his sons with another army. They probably were reinforced by the fugitives from the last action.
OF PWLL MELYN.
Another battle was fought on the fifteenth of the same month, at
Mynydd y Pwll Melyn
in
Brecknockshire,
again fatal to the cause of
Owen.
Fifteen hundred of his men were slain or taken prisoners: among the last was his son; among the first his brother
Tudor,
who resembled
Glyndwr
so greatly, that a report was spread of his death, to the great dejection of his countrymen: but, on examining the dead body, it was found to want a wart over the eye, which distinguished our chieftain from his brother. According to
Carte
ii. 665.
, young
Henry
commanded at this battle.
HOLINSHED
528.
mentions another defeat which the
Welsh
sustained in the month of
May,
in which
Gryffydd Yonge, Owen'
's chancellor, was made prisoner. I suspect that the historian confounds this action with that near
Grosmont;
but that the chancellor was the great chieftain there made prisoner, must be a mistake; for we find him witness, the next year, to a pardon granted by
Owen
to one
Jeven Gôch.
AFTER these defeats, all
Glamorganshire
submitted to the king, a few faithful friends only excepted; who, on discovering that
Owen
was alive, fled and joined him. It was at this time that he suffered those distresses which the
English
attribute to the latter part of his life. During this dispersion of his friends, he was obliged to seek protection from a few trusty partizans; and often to conceal himself in caves and desert places. A cavern near the sea-side, in the parish of
Llangelynin,
in the county of
Merioneth,
is still called
Ogof Owain,
in which he was secretly supported by
Ednyfed ap Aaron,
of the tribe of
Ednowain ap Bradwen.
THE bard
Jolo Gôch
deplores his absence; and calls him home from different parts of the globe, to re-possess himself of his principality. He in one place supposes him to be at
Rome,
and entreats him to return laden with tokens from St.
Peter.
ABOUT this time the earl of
Northumberland
began another conspiracy; which was detected, and several of his adherents were executed. Among others, one Sir
John Griffith,
a
Welsh
knight; which makes it probable, that the earl and
Glyndwr
still acted in concert. The king, by his activity, quickly frustrated this plot; seized on the earl's castles, and obliged him to fly into
Scotland
for protection. With him fled the bishops of St.
Asaph
and
Bangor
Ferdun. Scotichronicon. ii, 441.
, and the abbot of
Welbeck.
The two first were probably placed by
Glyndwr
about the earl, to consult the proper measures for the successful execution of their designs.
HENRY then returned,
HENRY MARCHRS AGAIN INTO WALES
and marched into
Wales
with an army of 37,000 men. The same ill-fortune attended him in this as in former expeditions. The weather proved so bad, that he was obliged to make a hasty retreat to
Worcester,
aggravated with the loss of fifty of his carriages
Walsingham, 566.
.
Shakespear
makes our chieftain thus vaunt the frequent defeats of his antagonist, even before the battle of
Shrewshury:
Three times hath
Henry Bolingbreke
made head
Against my pow'r; thrice from the banks of
Wye,
And sandy-bottom'd
Severn,
have I sent
Him bootless home, and weather-beaten bask.
NOTWITHSTANDING the ill success of the king, the affairs of
Owen
would, in all probability, have found a sad change, had not, at this very period, his ally
Charles
VI.
FEENCH ASSIST OWEK.
sent him a most seasonable assistance; which, for a considerable time, prolonged the war, and delayed his total ruin. A considerable armament was made in the ports of
France.
It was planned by the duke of
Orleans
Histoire et regue de
Charles
VI. tom. iv. 190.
, regent of
France
during the insanity of
Charles.
The invasion was to have taken place the preceding year; and (as
Rapin
observes) seems to have been intended to coincide with the insurrection of
Scroope
archbishop of
York,
and other noblemen in the north. Their attempt proved fatal to them. But the sleet, consisting of a hundred and forty ships, sailed from
Brest
the latter end of
June,
with an army of twelve thousand
. According to the historian of this reign,
Mademoiselle de Lassan
Ibid.
, there were among them eight hundred men at arms, six hundred cross-bows, and twelve hundred foot-soldiers, all chosen troops.
OUR historians say, that they were commanded by the
Marechal de Montmorency;
but I cannot discover that any of that great houss was engaged in the expedition. The fleet was under the command of
Renaud de Trie,
lord of
Serisontaine,
admiral of
France;
the land, forces under that of
Jean de Rieux,
lord of
Rieux
and
Rochsort, Marshal
of
France.
Under him served
Jean,
or, as
Moreri
calls him,
Aubert de Hangest Sire de Hugueville,
master or the cross-bows; and who, by reason of the age and infirmities of
Ricux,
seems to have been the acting general. According to the genius of the nation, the officers made the most brilliant appearance; and
Hugueville
actually sold to the church of
Paris
his fine estate of
Agencourt
near
Mondidier,
in order to furnish himself with a magnificent equipage
Histoire et regne de
Charles
VI. tom. iv, 190.
.
THE sleet had a very favorable passage; but, by neglect of providing sufficient quantity of fresh water, most of the horses perished.
LANDIN WALES.
According to the best authority
Rymer,
viii. 406.
, the forces landed, under the command of
Hugueville,
in
Milsord Haven.
He immediately marched towards
Caermarthen,
which he besieged and look by capitulation. The garrison were suffered to depart, and had liberty to take their effects with them
Walsingham, 566.
.
HE declined making any attempt on
Pembroke,
by reason of the strength of the castle; but sat down before
Haversord-west:
where the earl of
Arundel
made so gallant a defence, that the
French
were obliged to raise the siege with considerable loss.
Glyndwr
had, by this time, reached
Tenbigh
with ten thousand men, where he was joined by
Hugueville.
As soon as the necessary preparations were finished, they marched through
Glamorganshire,
reached
Worcester,
and burnt the suburbs, and ravaged the country round
Monstrelet.
.
As soon as
Henry
heard of the intended invasion, he issued out a proclamation
Rymer, viii.
, dated from
Westminster, July
2d; in which he directs the lieutenants of several counties to raise forces to repel the foe. Lord
Berkley,
and
Henry Pay
admiral of the cinque ports, commanded at sea, and burnt, according to our accounts, fifteen of the
French
ships as they lay at anchor in
Milford Haven;
and afterwards (joined by Sir
Thomas Swinborn
) took fourteen more in their passage to
Wales,
laden with ammunition and provisions for the army
Walsingbam,
566; who adds, that a marshal and seven captains were takes at the same time.
.
Madamoiselle de
LUSSAN takes notice of the first; but candidly confesses, that the
French
were so terrified with the appearance of thirty sail of our ships, that they themselves directed the destruction of these vessels.
IN the beginning of
August, Henry
received advice that the
French
were landed; and again sends out a proclamation, dated from
Pontesract, August
7th, addressed to the lieutenant of the county of
Hereford,
with orders to raise without delay his forces, and repair with them to the city of
Hereford.
It is in this proclamation he expressly calls the
French
general, lord of
Huguevilie.
HENRY marched in person to oppose an enemy now grown so very formidable;
HENRY MARCHES AGAISST THEM
but
Hugueville,
after plundering the country, on the king's approach, made a sudden retreat, and posted himself on a high hill, about three leagues from
Worcester,
with a deep valley between his and the royal army. Each endeavored to bring the enemy to make the attack; and for eight days they respectively presented themselves in order of battle, and so continued from morning till night; but neither party ventured to descend from its advantageous situation. During this time, there were several skirmishes. The loss on both sides was about two hundred, besides numbers wounded. The
French
lost
Patrouillart de Trie,
lord of
Mouci
and
Plessis,
chamberlain to the king, and brother to the admiral; a gallant officer, whose fate was much lamented by the army *
Moreri;
who says he fell a the attack of Haversord-west
. There fell that day also the lord of
Martelonne,
and the lord of
La Valle;
and, as
Hall
says, the bastard of
Bourbon.
Our historians seetn to exaggerate their loss, adding to it that of five hundred other gentlemen; but
Monstrelet
asserts, that on a review of the
French
troops, when they returned home, only sixty were found missing.
THE camp that
Owen
is supposed to have possessed, is on
Wobury hill,
in the parish of
Whittley,
exactly nine miles north-west of
Worcester,
It is surrounded with a single foss; and contains near twenty-seven acres. It probably had been an antient
British
post; but was extremely convenient for
Glyndwr,
not only by reason of its strength, but, as
Wales
lay open to him, he had it in his power to retreat among the mountains whenever he found it necessary. I never had an opportunity of examining the nature of the ground, and how far it suits the description given by
Monstrelet;
but the public will have their curiosity amply gratified by the pen of my friend Dr. NASH, now employed in forming the history of his native county.
HENRY acted the part of a prudent general, by cutting off the means of every supply from the enemy; who, worn with famine and fatigue, in the midnight of the eighth day decamped with the utmost secrecy, and retired into
Wales
Monstrelet,
16.
Hail,
19.
.
Monstrelet
makes the king quit his station first, and return the same night to
Worcester;
and adds, that the
French
attacked him in his retreat, and took from him eighteen waggons loaden with provisions.
Hall,
on the contrary, assures us, that
Henry
chased the enemy from hilles to dales, from dales to woddes, from woddes to marishes, and yet could never have them at any advantage. A worlde it was to see his quotidiane removyng; his paynfull and busy wanderyng, his troublesome and uncertayne abidyng, his continual mocion, his daily peregrinacion in the desert felles and craggy mountains of that barreine, unfertile, and depopulate countrey.
In the end, the king, unable any longer to subsi
his army in a country which
Glyndwr
had expressly destroyed to dutress his enemy, was obliged to desist from his pursuit, and to return to
Wercester;
and, as
Hall
owns, in his retreat, lost
certayn cariages laden with vitayle, to his great displeasure, and to the great comforte of the
Welsh.
I MUST enquire when
Henry
had leisure for so long and tedioas a campaign;
TIME OF THIS CAMPAIGN.
for I find him the 22d of
August
at
Pontesrad,
the 27th at
Worcester,
and the 4th of
September
at
Heresord.
In four days from that time, it appears he was at
Faxflete.
AT
Beverley,
the 13th of the same month. At
Bishopthorp
in the same county from the 16th to the 21st; the next day at
Cawoed.
After which there is an unaccounted gap of time, till he appears again at
Worcester
the 6th of
October.
I am thus minute, to shew that
Henry
possessed a strength of body equal to his activity of mind; otherwise he never could have slown with that rapidity from place to place, nor have guarded against enemies so remote as the
Scots
and
Welsh,
at nearly the same period.
IT seems as if all his forces destined to oppose the last, were arrived at their places of rendezvous before the 6th of
October.
Rymer, viii. 420.
From that time he was in all probability engaged in this expedition;
Hall
assigning (among other reasons for the king's desisting from his enterprize) the approach of winter, which rendered a campaign amidst the mountains highly unsafe. Accordingly we find him at
Dunstable,
on his road to
London,
the 3d of
November
Idem, 421.
, and at his palace at
Westminster
soon after
Ibid.
.
THE
French,
after their slight, never made any farther attempt.
Glyndwr
placed them in quarters, where they remained till they quitted the kingdom; when he furnished the greater part with vessels to transport them to
France.
FRENCH QUIT WALES
Fifteen hundred remained in
Wales
till the
March
following, when they were carried home by a person styled by
de Lussan, Le Begue de Volay
De Lassan, iv. 195.
AFTER the defeat of
Gryssydd
son of
Glyndwr,
by
Henry
prince of
Wales,
that youthful warrior undertook the siege of
Llanbedr
castle, in the county of
Cardigan.
SIEGE OF LLANBEDR CASTLE.
After some time, the governor placed there by
Glyndwr
agreed to give it up, in case it was not relieved between the 24th of
October
and the feast of
All Saints.
He was to surrender it in good condition; not to injure the habitations in the town, nor seize any ships that should be driven into the port by distress of weather: that he should have free pardon, and have liberty, at the end of the term, to depart with all his effects, and those of his friends. I observe, among the instruments of war which were to be delivered up, were
canones,
Anglicè
gunnes;
which had been invented by the
French
about twenty-six years before this period. He took the sacrament in witness of his sincerity, and delivered hostages for the performance of his agreement. He probably relied on the assistance of the
French
for relief.
Henry
apprehended the same. But, in order to frustrate any attempts of that kind, he issued out a writ, dated from
Cawood
the 22d of
September,
to the lieutenants of
Devonshire,
and of other counties, to raise their forces, and to rendezvous at
Evesham
on the 10th of
October
Rymer, viii. 419. 497.
. This caution took effect so far, as to oblige
Rees ap Gryffydd ap Shenkin,
alias
Rees ap Llewelyn,
to agree to the terms proposed; but seemingly without any design of preserving them; for, no sooner was the prince departed, than
Rees
permitted
Glyndwr
to turn him and his garrison out, under pretence that they had been guilty of treason in submitting without his consent
Welsingham, 568. Holinshed, 553.
.
I MUST conclude the transactions of this year, with remarking the solicitude of the lords and commons about the relief of the lord of
Coitie,
SIEGE OF COITIE CASTLE BY GLYN
WR.
then besieged in the castle of the same name, seated near the river
Ogmore
in
Glamorganshire. Henry
was little concerned about his fate; but several prelates and persons of rank in both houses offered a loan, for the purpose of raising forces for his rescue. At length it was agreed by king and parlement, that those loans should be repaid out of the first payments of the subsidy at that time granted
Drake
's Parliamentary History, ii. 85. This was a very considerable fortress, as appears by
Buck
's view of it, vol. ii. No 398.
.
1406.
FROM the latter end of last year, the affairs of
Glyndwr
began to decline. He had still strength sufficient to keep within his mountanous territories; but was too weak to meditate any thing more than marauding invasions.
FRENCH SEND MORE FORCES
The
French
continued to give him some assistance. They sent a sleet of thirty-eight sail. I imagine, from the small number, that they were wearied of their ally; yet were willing to keep up, for their own interest, the spirit of the insurgents. Eight of these ships, laden with men at arms, were taken; the rest escaped in great confusion to
Wales
Walsingham,
566.
.
ABOUT this time
Owen
was considerably weakened by the defection of the inhabitants of
Ystrad Tywy.
THE presence of that brave and active prince
Henry
of
Monmouth,
who at the express request of parlement
Parliamentary Hist.
ii. 93.
resided in some part of
Wales,
was no small check on the enterprizing temper of
Glyndwr,
nor a less terror to the
Welsh,
who had felt the force of his arms. At the same time, parlement, sensible of the folly of the premature grants before made of the estates of the insurgents, entered on record, that no heritages conquered from the
Welsh,
be given away till one quarter of an year after
Ibid.
: so precarious seemed the tenure, even in the declining state of our chiestain. I may remark, that he still had strength enough to give protection to the
English
fugitives. The great earl of
Northumberland,
and lord
Bardels,
found here a hospitable asylum, after the
S
ts,
to whom they had entrusted themselves, meditated the giving of them up to
Henry,
in exchange for certain prisoners. Sir
David Fleming
of
Cumbernauld
generously warned them of the intentions of his countrymen; who in revenge took away his life
Walsingham,
566.
.
BEFORE the expiration of this year,
Henry
made a grant in fee to Sir
John Tibetot,
speaker of the house of commons, and father to the accomplished peer
John
earl of
Worcester,
of the estates of
Richard ap Gryffydd ap Vychan,
in the counties of
Caermarthen
and
Cardigan,
forfeited by his adherence to the party of
Glyndwr
Parliamentary Hist,
ii, 106.
.
GLYNDWR again was not behind hand in acts of regal power;
GLYNDWR CRANTS A PARDON.
for about this he grants a pardon to one
John ap H
d ap Jevan gôch; anno principatus nostri VI* datum apud Kevn Llanvair X die Jon per ipsum principem.
On the seal was the portrait of
Owen
seated in a chair, holding a sceptre in his right hand, and a globe in the left.
IT is observable, that among the witnesses are
Gryffydd
his eldest son, and
Gryffydd yonge
his chancellor; both of whom, the
English
historians say, were made prisoners, and sent to the Tower. As
Henry
shewed no mercy to the partizans of
Owen,
it is
probable that these two would have escaped his rage, had
ever been in his power. The other two witnesses are
Meredith,
another of his sons, and
Rhys ap Tudur,
and
Gwillim ap
******.
NOTWITHSTANDING this ostentation of regal power,
HIS AFFAIRS DECLINE.
the affairs of
Glyndwr
evidently declined. The garrisons placed in most of the different fortresses of
North Wales
had kept the maritime parts from rising in any numbers in his favor. In the island of
Auglesca,
he seems to have had a very strong party. It does not appear that there ever was any battle in that island. It is my opinion, that the partizans of
Owen
had passed the
Menai,
and, while their zeal was warm, had joined his army; and, like the custom in all feudal times, returned to their homes when wearied with the campaign, or satiated with plunder.
BY the latter end of this year, they had submitted to the royal authority: for I find, from a transcript of a manuscript found among the papers of the learned EDWARD LLWYD of the
Musaeum,
this particular:
IN an inquisition taken at
Beaumaris,
upon
Tuesday,
the day next before the feast of St.
Martin
the bishop, (which is the 11th of
November
) in the 8th year of king
Henry
IV.
anno Domini
1406, before
Thomas Twkhwl, Philip de Mainwaring,
and
Robert Paris
the younger, commissioners, by virtue of a commission from prince
Henry,
son and heir apparent of the king, prince of
Wales,
duke of
Acquitaine, Lancaster,
and
Cornwall,
and earl of
Chester,
unto them, or any two of them, directed, were indicted, presented, and fined, the several persons and inhabitants of the isle of
Anglesea,
ANGLESEA FINED BY THE KING.
whose names are hereunder written, for being in arms and rebellion with
Owen Glyndysrdwy
and others.
I REFER the reader for the particular of their names to the Appendix. I only shall observe here the
Cwmmwds,
the numbers of persons fined in each, and the sum total of them and the fines.
 
 
£.
s.
d.
In
Llivon
411
100
18
8
Menai
308
65
10
8
Talybalion
399
123
16
4
Twrkelyn
279
83
5
8
Malltracth
326
83
16
0
Tindaethvy
389
79
19
8
 
2112
537
7
0
I MUST observe, that the greatest of the fines is £. 8. 3
s.
4
d.
and the lest, 2
s.
and that two priests are fined five pounds each, I suppose, for misleading their flocks. Several persons are outlawed, and the goods of those slain in battle forfeited to the king, according to the following valuation:
 
£.
s.
d.
A horse
0
2
0
mare
0
1
4
cow
0
1
8
steer or heifer
0
1
0
 
£.
s.
d.
A yearling calf
0
0
4
sheep
0
0
4
cronnach of wheat
0
3
4
ditto oats
0
2
0
1407.
HISTORY furnishes us with very few materials respecting the transactions of this year. They were probably few and unimportant.
Owen
had lost the fortresses of
Llanbedr
Near
Aberystwyth
is an old embattled house, (as I am informed) called
Ty Crys,
reported to have been
Glyndwr
's.
(which was soon retaken) and that of
Harlech.
He was consined to the hills, and seems never to have quitted his fastnesses but to make a praedatory war. The earl or
Northumberland
and lord
Bardols,
about this time, apprehending that
Owen
was too weak to protect them, quitted
Wales,
and soon after lost their lives in a desperate effort to restore their cause, on
Bramham
-moor in
Yorkshire.
1408.
IN this year I discover nothing relative to the
Welsh
affairs, farther than a due compliment paid to the prince of
Wales
by the commons; who, by their speaker, desired the king to give public thanks to young
Henry
for his great fatigue and good conduct in
Wales;
for which both king and prince returned their compliments again to the commons
Rymer,
viii, 547.
.
1409.
IN this year
Glyndwr
again began to make head.
MAKES HEAD AGAIN.
By himself, or his partizans, he made great devastations on the marches, and in those parts of
Wales
that were well affected to the
English
government. The estates of
Edward de Charlion
lord
Powys
suffered gre
ly.
Henry
therefore directs a write to
nobleman to raiss his sorces and supp
s, in the most
, manner, this new disturbance,
ded, as it appears, by
himself and the bishop of St.
. Lord
Pouys
the same time instructed not to quit the country, but to
all his castles garrisoned, and not to permit any of his
to be deserted. This is dated from
Westminister
the
of
May
Rymer,
viii. 588.
.
LIKE orders were issued to
Edward
duke of
York, Th
s
of
Arundel, Richard
earl of
Warwick, Reginald
lord
Grey,
xstantia lady
Despenser,
(who had now made her peace with the crow
Court,
and
William Beauchamp.
THIS activity proved fatal to
Rhys Ddu
and
Philip
, two of
Owen
's best officers, whom he had sent into
Sh
,
where they committed great excesses. They were both made prisoners, sent to
London,
and executed.
Caxton
Cronycle of
Englonde,
143.
relates, that
Rhys
was taken before the justices, condemned, and drawn on a hurdle through the city to
Tyburn,
where he suffered the death of a traitor. His quarters were sent to four other cities; his head placed on
London
bridge.
ON the 18th of
November,
in this year,
Henry
issued out an order to the constable of
Windsor
castle, to deliver to Sir
William Liste
knight, marshal of
England,
the following
Welsh
prisoners:
Howel ap Jevan ap Howell.
Walther ap Jevan Vechan.
Rys ap Jevan ap Rys.
Jevan Goch ap Morgan.
David ap Tudor.
Rys ap Meredyd.
Madoc Bery.
Jenkin Backer.
David ap Cad.
Thomam Dayler
Rymer,
viii. 603.
Rymer,
viii. 611.
.
AFTER this follows a warrant to Sir
William
to receive them. I imagine, that all these gentlemen were delivered to the marshal for execution; who, by his commission, seems to have been expressly appointed for that purpose;
certis de causis ad ea omnia et singula quae ad officium
Marescalli Angliae
pertinent exercenda per litteras nostras patentes quam diu nobis placuerit, duraturas deputavimus.
TOWARDS the latter end of the year, several of the officers of the lords marchers, either through dislike to the war, or for the sake of preserving their country from the fury of the
Welsh,
of their own authority formed a truce with
Glyndwr
and his partizans. This only served to enable them to make their inroads on other parts with more security. Many of the loyal borderers were slain, and others plundered, in consequence of these agreements.
Henry
was highly irritated, and immediately issued out writs
Dated from
Northampton,
23d
November.
to
Thomas
earl of
Arundel,
Sir
Richard L'E-strange
lord of
Knockyn, Ellesmere,
and other borderirg manors,
Edward Charlton
lord
Powys,
and
Reginald
lord
Grey
of
Ruthyn,
and to the deputy-lieutenant of
Heresordshire,
directing them to cause all such illegal compacts to be rescinded, and
Glyndwr
and his adherents to be pursued, and attacked with the utmost vigor.
FROM this period
Owen
never made any attempts worthy of historic notice. Numbers of his followers deserted; which obliged him to confine himself to the hills, and to act entirely on the defensive. Notwithstanding his power was reduced, he was far from being subdued. The years 1410 and 1411 were passed without any memorable actions. The
English
were content with the ease they enjoyed by restraining the outrages of the mountaneers.
Glyndwr
maintained that extensive tract that forms the
Alps
of our country, and kept his prisoners so securely consined, that even
Henry,
in 1412, was under the necessity of permitting (by writ
Dated
July
14th.
Rymer,
viii. 753.
) his esquire
Llewelyn ap Hoel,
father to the noted
David Gam,
to make use of Sir
John Tiptoste
and
William Botiller,
to treat with
Owen
about the redemption of his son, who was kept
forti et durâ prisonâ,
or to endeavour to seize fome of
Glyndwr
's friends to exchange for
Gam.
TREATY.
What the result of this affair was, does not appear. It serves, though, to disprove the opinion, that
David
escaped to
England
after his infamous attempt in 1402; for which, as is now evident, he suffered a most fevere, but merited captivity of ten years, from which all the power of his
English
friends could not release him.
THE prison where
Owen
confined his captives was not far from his house,
THE PRISON OF GLYNDWR.
in the parish of
Llansanfraid Glyndwrdwy;
and the place is to this day called
Carchardy Owen Glyndwrdwy.
Some remains are still to be seen near the church, which form part of a habitable house. It consists of a room thirteen feet square, and ten and a half high. The sides consist of three horizontal beams, with upright planks, not four inches asunder, mortised into them. In these are grooves with holes in the bottom, as if there had been originally cross-bars, or grates. The roof is exceedingly strong, composed of strong planks almost contiguous. It seems as if there had been two stories; but the upper part at present is evidently modern.
IT is singular, that the government did not take advantage of two
Welshmen
of rank, whom they had this year in their power, and whom they might have made the price of the liberty of their partizan. These were
Rhys ap Tudur
of
Penmynydd
in
Anglesea,
and his brother. Perhaps they were taken after the treaty had its effect; perhaps their crimes were too enormous for pardon: but whatsoever the case was, they were both conveyed to
Chester,
and there put to death.
I MUST not omit, that in 1410,
Henry
prince of
Wales
gave a free pardon to certain of his tenants in the comot of
Coleshill,
in the county of
Flint
Harleian
MSS. No 1999. 32.
, for the share they had in what was styled the rebellion of
Glyndwr.
That county was much divided in those troubles.
Howel Gwynedd,
descended from
Edwin
lord of
Tegengle,
a valiant gentleman, who sided with our chieftain, was in one of tire preceding years surprised by his enemies from the town of
Flint.
He probably was posted within the trenches of
Moel y Gaer,
in the parish of
Northop;
on which he was without process, beheaded.
1413.
HENRY died in the beginning of this year;
HENEY DIES.
and left his youthful successor so engaged in his preparations for the conquest of
France,
as to lose ail thoughts of the entire subjection of his
British
dominions.
Glyndwr
remained still inaccessible; but was so closely guarded, as to cease to be tremendous. The
W
sh
who had submitted, now began to indulge their revenge against such of the
English
who had slain, or otherwise injured any of their relations or friends in the late war. This revenge was taken by various kinds of distress and imprisonment, till they had cleared themselves by compurgation, or made some satisfactory agreement. To remedy this,
Henry
the Vth, in his first year, abolishes
Statutes at Large,
Ruffhead
's; ed. i. 484.
Par un
ASSACH
solonc la custome de
GALES
dest à dire par la serement de CCC bommes.
See also
Leges Wallicae,
188.
& seq.
the
Assach,
or oath of 300 men, necessary, according to the custom of
Wales,
to clear a person accused of any crime.
ASSACH.
Before that, an
Englishman
was liable to continue in jail for life, as it seems impossible for one of that hated nation to procure even a far less number of compurgators than this strange law required for his acquittal.
Henry
made the attempt penal, and the prosecutor liable to an imprisonment of two years, to pay treble damages, and to pay beside, a fine and ransom before he could be released.
THIS was the last of the many laws enacted against the
Welsh
on occasion of this insurrection.
SEVERE LAWS.
They were certainly very severe; yet, perhaps, no more than what any government would have directed, against a people that had submitted to conquest near a hundred and twenty years, and who were considered in no other light than that of rebellious subjects.
ON the first insurrection, conciliatory methods were tried, and pardons offered. After experience of the little effect these had on the minds of the
Welsh,
every lenient step was laid aside, and laws of a very severe nature were put in force against them.
THE first was in the year 1400. It was found expedient to prevent, as much as possible, all intercourse between the
Welsh
and
English.
The first were strongly attached to the cause of
Richard;
the last had many secret favorers of that unhappy prince among them. There appeared much danger, if the former were permitted to strengthen their interest in
England:
a coalition fatal to the new government was apprehended. As a preventative, it was enacted: That no person born on both sides of
Welsh
parents should purchase lands or tenements near any of the cities or towns on the marches of
Wales,
on pain of forfeiting them to the lord paramount where such estates lay: That no
Welshman
should be received into any corporation town; or, if they had been settled in any such before, they were to find security for their good and loyal behaviour; they were to be totally disqualified from any civil office, and never allowed to carry any weapons.
IN case any
Welshman
refused to restore to any
Englishman
the cattle, horses, or the like, (which he had forcibly taken) within seven days, the
Englishman
was allowed to retaliate.
So little trust was there in justice from our countrymen, that it was enacted, that no
Englishman
should be condemned at the suit of a
Welshman,
unless by
English
justices, or
English
burgesses.
So greatly did the government apprehend the seduction of
English
loyalty by the charms of our countrywomen, that the
English
were prohibited from marrying with a
Welshwoman,
under the pain of being disqualified from holding any office in
Wales.
IN 1402, there is a very particular statute, intended to remedy the mischiefs resulting from some customs peculiar to
Wales.
This directs,
KYMHORTHA.
that
nul westour, rymour, minstrall, ne vagabond, soit aucunement sustenuz en la terre de
Gales,
par faire kymorthas ou coillage sur le commune poeple illoeqes.
I cannot give a better translation, than that in the observations on the antient statutes, by my esteemed friend the honorable DAINES BARRINGTON; which is to this purpose: THAT no host
I beg leave to render the word
westour
differently: it seems derived from the
Welsh, gwestwr,
which signifies a person who kept a place of public entertainment; and such a place was very proper for a rendezvous of this nature.
, rhymer, minstrel, or other vagabond, should presume to assemble or collect together.
THE word
kymhortha
is mis-spelt from the
Welsh cymmorth,
or the plural
cymmorthau,
assemblies of people to assist a neighbor in any work. Such are very frequently in use at present. There are
cymmorthan
for spinning; for works of husbandry; for coal-carriage. But at this time, these meetings were mere pretences; and their end was the collecting a sufficient number of able-bodied men to make an insurrection. Of such a nature, in old times, were the hunting-matches in
Scotland.
The legislature in that part of
Great Britain
found the evils resulting from them, and at length suppressed them by a law.
BUT
cymhorthau
of our countrymen were at this period of a most tremendous nature. They were composed of men the most dreaded by tyrants and usurpers; of BARDS, who animated our nation, by recalling to mind the great exploits of our ancestors, their struggles for liberty, their successful contests with the
Saxon
and
Norman
race for upwards of eight centuries. They rehearsed the cruelty of their antagonists, and did not forget the savage policy of the first
Edward
to their proscribed brethren. They brought before their countrymen the remembrance of antient prophecies. They shewed to them the hero
Glyndwr,
descended from the antient race of our princes; and pronounced, that in him was to be expected the completion of every prediction of our oracular MERLIN. The band of minstrels now struck up; the harp, the
crwth,
and the pipe, filled the measure of enthusiasm which the others had begun to inspire. They rushed to battle, fearless of events, like their great ancestry, moved by the
Druids
songs; and scorned death, which conferred immortality in reward of their valor,
Inde ruendi
In ferrum mens prona viris, animaeque capaces
Mortis, et ignavum est rediturae parcere vitae.
LUCAN.
Hence they no cares for this frail being feel.
But rush undaunted on the pointed steel:
Provoke approaching fate, and bravely scorn
To spare that life which must so soon return.
ROWS.
WE find that
Glyndwr
maintained his situation for two year; longer. In 1415, his affairs bore so respectable an aspect, that the king condescended to enter into a treaty with him; and for that purpose deputed, from the castle of
Porchester
The writ is dated
July
5th,
Rymer,
ix, 283.
, Sir
G
ocrt Talbot,
with full powers to negotiate with
Owen,
and even to offer him and his followers a free pardon, in case they sliould request it. Some writers say, that this grace was obtained by the mediation of
David Holbech,
deputy steward of the lordships of
Bromfield
and
Yale.
DIATH OF OWEN.
The event of this affair does not appear. It is probable that it was interrupted by the death of our hero, which happened on the 20th of
September,
on the eve of St.
Matthew,
in the sixty-first year of his age, at the house of one of his daughters; but whether that of his daughter
Scudamore
or
Monnington,
is uncertain; but, according to the tradition of the county of
Hereford,
it may be supposed to have been at that of the last. It is said, that he was buried in the church-yard of
Monnington;
but there is no monument, or any memorial of the spot that contains his remains.
VALLE CRUCIS ABBY.
HAVING now collected every thing in my power relating to this celebrated
Briton,
I return, by the same road, cross the
Dee
at
Llangollen;
and, after a ride of about a mile, turn a little out of the road, in a fertile little vale, to the abby of
LLAN-EGWEST,
ABBY OF VALLE CRUCIS.
GLYN-EGWEST MONACHLOG, or DE VALLE CRUCIS, solemnly seated at the foot of the mountains, on a small meadowy flat, watered by a pretty stream, and shaded with hanging woods. This was a house of
Cistertians,
founded in the year 1200, by
Madoc ap Gryffydd Maelor,
lord of
Bromfield,
and grandson by the mother's side to
Owen Gwynedd
prince of
Wales.
I cannot discover any of the endowments, further than half the tithes of
Wrexham,
bestowed on it by
Reyner
bishop of St.
Asaph,
who died in 1224; and the other half, by his successor bishop
Abraham,
in 1227. The following bishop,
Howel ap Ednysved,
presented it with the church of
Llangollen
Goodwin, 657.
. The monks obtained besides the patronage of several other livings; such as
Wrexham, Rhiwabon, Chirk, Llausanfraid,
and
Llandegla;
but their title to these, as well as to
Llangollen,
was disputed by bishop
Anian,
commonly known by the name of
Y Brawd duo Nannau,
or the black brother of
Nanney,
a
Dominican,
consecrated in 1268
Idem, 658.
who brought his cause before the pope's delegates, the official of
Canterbury,
and the abbot of
Tallelechew,
and obtained a decision in favor of him and his successors; but as there was some doubt about the patronage of the church of
Llandegla,
they allotted (in lieu of it) to the abby a third of the tithes of
Bryn-Eglwys
Ibid.
.
THE landed endowments were not inconsiderable.
REVENUES.
In the year 1291, the abbot was found to have near the monastery, a grange, with three ploughlands, a mill, and other conveniencies, valued at — £. 3 0 0
The granges of
Bodhange, Tregam, Rudryn,
and
Baketon,
set for — 5 10 0
Also the dairy-farm of
Nante,
the grange of
Nustroyz, Convenet,
and
Grennychamt,
set for — 3 19 8
Also the grange of
Wyrcessam,
consisting of one ploughland and some pasture, valued at — 0 15 0 And thirty cows, at the expence of thirty shillings.
THE whole of his establishment was fourteen pounds fourteen shillings and eight pence
Willis's St. Asaph, 178.
. At the dissolution, the revenue of the house was found to be (according to
Dugdale
) 188
l. per Annum. Speed
makes it 214
l.
3
s.
5
d.
The last abbot was
John Herne,
who received an annuity of 23
l.
on his surrender. This, and 10
l.
13
s.
4
d.
in annuities to some surviving monks, were the only charges remaining in 1553
Willis
's Abbies, ii. 312.
.
THIS place remained in the crown till the 9th of
James
I. who granted it to
Edward Wotton,
afterwards created lord
Wotton.
In 1654, we find a lady
Margaret Wotton,
a recusant, to have been in possession; and that it was put under sequestration by orders of the commissioners from the ruling powers.
THERE still remain the ruins of the church,
CHURCH.
and part of the abby: the last inhabited by a farmer. The church was built in form of a cross, in different styles of architecture. The most antient is that of the east end, where the windows are in form of long and narrow slips, pointed at top. The window at the west end is large, divided by stone tracery; and above is a round window of elegant work. Above it is an inscription in memory of the person who repaired or re-built this part: an honor frequently paid to benefactors of this kind. It is in this form; ĀD. ADAM. DMS.
Fecit Hoc opus. Pace Beata quiescat.
Amen. And just beneath, are the letters M. D... probably part of the date; the rest being lost. We cannot ascertain the person intended in this line. He was probably one of the house of
Trevawr,
in which that name occurs more than once; as,
Adam
or
Adda Vawr
of
Trevawr;
and
Adam
or
Adda ap Jorwerth Ddu
of
Pengwern.
THE capitals of the pilasters within the church, are finished with elegant foliage. In the north transept, is a cloister of two arches; an arch that once contained a tomb; and near it a double
benetoire,
or holy-water pot.
MUCH of the building is made of the coarse slaty stone of the country. The door and window frames of fine freestone.
THE abbot's apartment was contiguous to the church. There opens from it a small space, where he might stand to hear the holy offices performed below.
THE lower part of the abby is vaulted, and supported by rows of low pillars; now divided into different rooms. In front is a large window with curious stone tracery, which reaches to the ground. Within seems to have stood a small stair-case, which led to the fratry, a paved room above the arches.
IN one of the present bed-chambers is a stone (now part of a chimney-piece) carved with running foliage, with this imperfect inscription:
Hie jacet....
ARVRVET. This is the only relique of any tomb; that of the founder, who was buried here
Powel,
255. 293.
, is no more: nor yet that of
Gryffydd ap Madoc Maelor,
lord of
Dinas Brân;
who, after siding with the enemies of his country, in 1270 was deposited within these walls
Idem, 321. 327.
.
VALLE CRUCIS ABBY.
PILLAR OF ELISEG.
ABOUT a quarter of a mile higher up the vale,
PILLAR OF EAISEQ
in the hedge of a meadow, I met with the remainder of a round column, perhaps one of the most antient of any
British
inscribed pillar now existing.
IT was entire till the civil wars of the last century, when it was thrown down and broken by some ignorant fanatics; who thought it had too much the appearance of a cross, to be suffered to stand. It probably bore the name of one; for the field it lies in is still called
Llwyn-y-Groes,
or the Grove of the Cross, from the wood that surrounded it. It was erected at so early a period, that there is nothing marvellous, if we should perceive a tincture of the old idolatry, or at left of the primeval customs of our country, in the mode of it when perfect.
THE pillar never had been a cross; notwithstanding folly and superstition might, in later times, imagine it to have been one and have paid it the usual honors. It was a memorial of the dead; an improvement on the rude columns of
Druidical
times and cut into form, and surrounded with inscription. It is among the first lettered stones that succeeded the
Meini-hirion, MeiniGwŷr,
and
Llcchau.
It stood on a great
tumulus;
perhaps always environed with wood (as the mount is at present) according to the custom of the most antient times, when standing. pillars were placed under
every green tree
Kings, ii. 17. See the learned
Rowlands,
52.
.
It is said that the stone, when complete, was twelve feet high. It is now reduced to six feet eight. The remainder of the
capital is eighteen inches long. It stood infixed in a square pedestal, still lying in the mount; the breadth of which is five feet three inches: the thickness eighteen inches.
THE beginning of the inscription gives us nearly the time of its erection:
Concenn
filius
Cateli, Catteli
filius
Brochmail, Brochmail
filius
Eliseg, Eliseg
filius
Cnoillaine, Concenn
itaque pronepos
Eliseg
edificavit hunc lapidem proavo suo
Eliseg.
THIS
Concenn,
or
Congen,
was the grandson of
Brochmail Yscithroc,
the same who was defeated in 607 at the battle of
Chester
BEDE Hist. lib. ii. c. 2. p. 80.
. The letters on the stone were copied by Mr.
Edward Llwyd:
the inscription is now illegible; but, from the copy taken by that great antiquary, the alphabet nearly resembles one of those in use in the sixth century
Vide Doctor MORTON'S Table of Alphabeth.
.
ONE of the seats of
Concenn
and
Eliseg
was in this country. A township adjacent to the column bears, from the last, the name of
Eglwyseg;
and the picturesque tiers of rocks are called
Gliseg
for the same reason. The habitation of this prince of
Powys
in these parts was probably
Dinas Brân,
which lies at the head of the vale of
Gliseg.
Mr.
Llwyd
conjectures, that this place took its name from the interment of
Eliseg;
by a similar instance in the county of
Caermarthen;
where the place in which a monumental stone stands, is called
Pant y Polion,
corruptly for
Pant Pawlin,
from
Paulinus,
the person it was inscribed to:
Servator fidei patriaeque semper amator:
Hic PAULINUS jacet cultor pientissimus aequi
Vide Appendix, Mr.
Llwyd's
Letter.
.
THERE are two ways from this pillar: the usual is along the vale, on an excellent turnpike-road leading to
Ruthyn;
the other is adapted only for the travel of the horsemen; but far the more preferable, on account of the romantic views. I returned by
Valle Crucis;
and, after winding along a steep midway to the old castle, descended, and after crossing the rill of the
Brán,
arrived in the valley of
Glisseg;
VALLEY OF GLISSEG.
long and narrow, bounded on the right by the asbonishing precipices, divided into numberless parallel strata of white limestone, often giving birth to vast yew-trees: and on the left, by smooth and verdant hills, bordered by pretty woods. One of the principal of the
Glisseg
rocks is honored with the name of
Craig-Arthur.
That at the end of the vale is called
Craig y Forwyn,
or the maiden's; is bold, precipitous, and terminates with a vast natural column.
THIS valley is chiefly inhabited (happily) by an independent race of warm and wealthy yeomanry, undevoured as yet by the great men of the country.
IN order to get into the great road, I pursued a path up a steep ascent to the left; and about mid-way visited a house noted for being the residence of one
Edward Davies,
a low partizan. and plunderer on the side of the usurper during the civil wars. He was best known in his own country by the title of
Cneifiwr Glâs,
CNEIPIWR GLAS.
or the
Blue Shaver,
from his rapacity, and the color of his cloaths; and was considered as a fit instrument of the tyranny of the times. In 1654, he was appointed, by the commissioners for sequestration, steward of the court-leet within the manor of
Valle Crucis,
being recommended to the office by colonel
George Twisleton,
The
Cneifiwr
seems to have not been over-true to his own party, when his interest stood in the way. He was accustomed to take even the royalists under his protection, on receiving a proper reward. He once concealed Sir
Evan Llwyd
of
Bodidris,
at the time that a considerable sum was ordered for his apprehension. He lodged him in a cellar below the parlor; then summoning his people, ordered them, in a seeming rage, to sally out in quest of Sir
Evan,
stamping with his foot, and declaring, that if the knight was
above ground,
he would have him.
AFTER continuing an ascent for a little space longer, reach the pass called
Bwlch y Rhiw Velen,
BWLCH Y RHIW VELEN.
and fall again into the great road. This place is distinguished by the deaths of two of the sons of
Llowarch Hên,
LLOWARCH HEN.
the
Cumbrian
prince of the sixth century; who were slain in battle, and whose loss the princely bard, their father, deplores in an elegy, of which these lines are a fragment:
Bedh GUELL yn y
Rhiw Velen
Bedh SAWYL yn
Llan Gollen
Lhwyd
's Archzol. 259.
.
GUELL found a grave in
Rhiw Velen,
SAWYL, in
Llan Gollen.
LLOWARCH HEN left his country to expel the
Saxons
and
Irish
out of this part of
Britain.
He leaves us ignorant of the event: all he acquaints us with is, that he lost twelve sons in the generous attempt.
FROM the height above
Rhiw Velen,
is a very extensive prospect of the hundred of
Yale;
hilly, fertile in grass, abundant in cattle; but in this part dreary, and destitute of hedges and woods: banks, for the most part, supply the place of the first; and brakes of the latter. After some descent, cross the
Alyn,
Here a trifling rill (which, after running for some time, receives much increase) waters the rich vales of
Mold
and
Hope;
and passes between the picturesque banks from near
Caergwrle
to
Gresford,
where it goes through an extensive flat, and falls into the
Dee
midway between
Holt
and
Eaton
Boat. Leave, a little to the left, a place called
Havod yr Abad,
the site of one of the country-seats of the abbot of
Valle Crucis.
Close to the roadside lies
Tommen y Rhodwydd,
once a fortress known by the name of the castle of
Yale
Powel,
201.
, built by
Owen Gwynedd,
about the year 1148
Powel,
201.
. This is the place
Leland,
mistakenly, calls a castle belonging to
Owen Glyndwr
‡. It consists of a vast artificial mount, with another still loftier near one end, the keep of the place. These are surrounded with a great foss and rampart; and have only a single entrance. At present, there are not the lest reliques of the superstructure: which was probably of wood; for we are told, that this short-lived castelet was burnt nine years after its erection, by
Jorwerth Goch ap Meredydd
Powel,
208.
.
IT is in this manner we must account for the total disappearance of many
Welsh
castles, whose names are preserved in history;
WOODEN CASTLES.
and whose vestiges we have sought for in vain. They were made of wood, as was very customary with several antient nations, and with others of later date. The
Persians,
on the approach of the
Spartans,
secured themselves within their wooden walls: and
Cesar
found great resistance from a tower in the
Alpine
castle of
Larignum,
made of the timber of the
Larix,
or the
Larch,
which was found to be incombustible
Vitruvsius,
lib.
ii. c. 9. p. 35.
. In later times, the castle of
Bamborough
was built originally by
Ida
with wood; the burgh of
Murray
was fortified by the
Danes
with the same material. The people of the same county, in 1228, had castles of wood
Annals Scotland, 149.
and, a century after these, more recent instances:
William de Melton,
archbishop of
York
in 1317, fortified the mount in that city, called the
Old Bale,
with planks eighteen inches thick.
WHENSOEVER we find an antient fortress totally vanished, and we cannot account for the disposal of the materials in the erecting of any neighboring buildings, we must suppose that they had been constructed of wood; and that they had been destroyed by fire, either flung into them by means of torches, or by
veltae,
or vast masses of combustibles rolled against them by the force of numbers, as was the practice of the antient
Scandinavians,
described by
Olaus Magnus.
FROM
Tommen y Rhodwydd
I crossed the country for about two miles to the village of
Llandegla,
LLANDEGLA.
noted for its vast fairs for black cattle. The church is dedicated to St.
Tecla,
virgin and martyr; who, after her conversion by St.
Paul,
suffered under
Nero
at
Iconium.
ABOUT two hundred yards from the church, in a quillet called
Gwern Degla,
rises a small spring, with these letters cut on free-stone: A. G
: G.
ST. TECLAS'S WELL.
The water is under the tutelage of the saint; and to this day held to be extremely beneficial in the
Clwyf Tegla,
St.
Tecla
's disease, or the falling-sickness. The patient washes his limbs in the well; makes an offering into it of four pence; walks round it three times; and thrice repeats the Lord's prayer. These ceremonies are never begun till after sun-set, in order to inspire the votaries with greater awe. If the afflicted be of the male-sex, like
Socrates,
he makes an offering of a cock to his
Aesculapius,
or rather to
Tecla Hygeia;
if of the fair-sex, a hen. The fowl is carried in a basket, first round the well; after that into the church-yard; when the same orisons, and the same circum-ambulations are performed round the church. The votary then enters the church; gets under the communion-table; lies down with the Bible under his or her head; is covered with the carpet or cloth, and rests there till break of day; departing after offering six pence, and leaving the fowl in the church. If the bird dies, the cure is supposed to have been effected, and the disease transferred to the devoted victim.
FROM hence I visited the house of
Bodidris,
BODIDRIS.
a large and antient place, belonging to
Evan Lloyd Vaughan
Esq
of
Corsygedol,
in right of his mother
Margaret,
daughter of Sir
Evan Lloyd
baronet, the last male of the family: descended from
ynyr ap Howel ap Moriddig ap Sandde Hardd;
who, by his valor at the battle of
Corwen;
in 1165, obtained from his prince the honorable distinction in his arms of four bloody strokes, or, in the heralds phrafe, paly of eight,
or
and
gules.
For, while he was talking to his prince after the fight, with his left hand smeared with blood, he accidentally drew it across his sword, and left on it the marks of his four fingers. The prince observing this, ordered him to carry them on his shield; and at the same time bestowed on him the township of
Gelligynan
in this neighborhood, as a more substantial mark of his favor.
BODIDRIS takes its name from
Idris,
son of
Llewelyn
AURDORCHOG,
or of the goden torques,
the antient lord of
Yale.
It stands in two counties,
Flintshire
and
Denbighshire;
the long table in the hall having an end in each.
FROM hence I continued my journey to
Llanarmon,
LLAMARMON
a village whose church is dedicated to St.
Germanus
bishop of
Auxerre;
who, with St.
Lupus,
contributed to gain the famous
Victoria Alleluiatica
over the Picts and
Saxons
near
Mold.
He was a most popular patron, and has numbers of other churches in
Wales
under his protection. An image of an ecclesiastic, still to be seen in the church-wall, is called his. In
Leland's
days, there was a great resort of pilgrims, and large offerings at this place
Leland's
Itin.
v. 35.
; and, probably, to this imaginary reseinblance of him.
IN the church is the tomb of a grandson of the bloody-fingered warrior above mentioned, carrying on his shield the arms won by his ancestor, inscribed around,
Hic jacet Grusudd ap Lhewelyn ap Ynyr.
At his feet lies a dog gnawing a heap of intestines. The tradition of the country is, that he engaged in a
crusade,
in which he lost his life by a wound in the abdomen; that his bowels fell out, and were seized by a dog, as expressed by the sculptor. If he fell in the romantic cause of the holy sepulchre, the artist must have forgot to have placed him cross-legged, the monumental distinction of all such knights-errant. The tomb is a chest cut out of one stone, in which his body was put, and sent home. The lid is another stone, with his effigies carved out of it.
SEPULCHARAL
tumuli
are very frequent in this parish.
TUMILI.
I was present at the opening of one, composed of loose stones and earth, covered with a layer of soil about two feet thick, and over that a coat of verdant turf. In the course of our search, were discovered, towards the middle of the tumulus, several urns made of sun-burnt clay, of a reddish color on the outside, black within, being stained with the ashes they contained. Each was placed with the mouth downwards on a flat stone; above each was another, to preserve them from being broken by the weight above. Mixed with the loose stones, were numerous fragments of bones; such as parts of the thigh-bones, the arm-bones, and even a scull. These had escaped the effects of the fire of the funeral pile, and were deposited about the urns; which contained the residuum of the corpse, that had been reduced to pure ashes.
I SHALL mention in the following pages the high antiquity of this custom; that it was in use with the most polished nations, with the
Greeks
and with the
Romans,
as well as with the most barbarous. The antient
Germans
practised this rite, as appears from
Tacitus
De moribus German.
. The
Druids
observed the same, with the wild addition of whatsoever was of use in this life, under the notion that they would be wanted by the deceased in the world below; and in confirmation of this, arms, and many singular things, of unknown use, are to this day discovered beneath the places of antient sepulture
Mela, lib. iii. c. 2.
.
THE remote
Sarmatae,
and all the
Scandinavian
nations, agreed in the burning of the dead; and the
Danes
distinguished by this, and the different funeral ceremonies, three several epochs
Wormii Mon. Danic. 40.
.
THE first, which was the same with that in question, was called
Roisold
and
Brende-tiide,
or the age of burning.
THE second was styled
Hoigold,
and
Hoielse-tiide,
or the age of
tumuli,
or hillocks. The corpse at this period was placed entire, with all the ornaments which graced it during life. The bracelets, or arms, and even the horse of the departed hero, were placed beneath the heap. Money, and all the rich property of the deceased, used to be buried with him, from the persuasion that the soul was immortal
Pomponius Mela,
lib.
iii. c. 2.
and would stand in need of these things in the other life. Such was the notion both of the
Gauls
and of the northern nations. Among the last, when pyracy was esteemed honorable, these illustrious robbers directed that all their rich plunder should be deposited with their remains
Bartholinus
Antiq.
Dan. 438.
, in order to stimulate their offspring to support themselves, and the glory of their name, by deeds of arms. Hence it is we hear of the vast riches discovered in sepulchres, and of the frequent violation of the remains of the dead, in expectation of treasures, even for centuries after this custom had ceased.
THE third age was called
Christendoms-old,
when the introduction of Christianity put a stop to the former customs: for 'Christians,' as the learned physician of
Norwich
observes,
abhorred this species of obsequies; and though they stickt not to give their bodies to be burnt in their lives, detested that mode after death; affecting rather depositure than absumption, and properly submitted unto the sentence of GOD, to return not unto ashes, but to dust again.
FROM the remarks of these able writers, we may learn the time of the abolition of the custom of burning among the several nations; for it ceased with paganism. It therefore fell first into disuse with the
Britons;
for it was for some time retained by the
Saxons
after their conquest of this kingdom; but was left off on their receiving the light of the gospel. The
Danes
retained the custom of urn-burial the last of any: for of all the northern nations who had any footing in these kingdoms, they were the latest who embraced the doctrines of Christianity.
I CANNOT establish any criterion by which a judgment may be made of the people to whom the different species of urns and tumuli belonged, whether they are
British, Roman, Saxon,
or
Danish.
SOME of the tumuli consist of heaps of naked stones, such as those in the isle of
Arran;
in many parts of
Scotland;
and in some parts of
Cornwall.
OTHERS are composed, like this of
Llanarmon,
with stones and earth, nicely covered with earth and sod. Of these the base is in certain places level with the ground, in others, surrounded with a trench: they were sometimes formed of earth only. Others are of a conoid form, and some oblong; of which there is an example in the neighborhood of
Bryn y pys,
called the
Giant's Grave.
Finally, other places of antient sepulture consisted only of a flat area, encompassed, like the
Druidical
circles, with upright stones; and such were those of
Ubbo,
and of king
Harald,
in
Sweden
Suecia
Antiqua et Hodierna,
tab,
315.
.
THE urns are also found placed in different manners, with the mouth resting downwards upon a flat stone, secured by another above; or with the mouth upwards, guarded in a like way.
VERY frequently the urns are discovered lodged in a square cell composed of flags. Sometimes more than one of these cells are found beneath a
carn
or
tumulus.
I have even met with, near
Dupplin
in
Perthshire,
not fewer than seventeen, disposed in a circular form
Tour in
Scotland,
iii-106.
. When numbers are found together, the tumulus was either a family-cemetery, or might have contained the reliques of a number of heroes who perished with glory in the same cause: for such honors were paid only to the great and good.
THE urns found in these cells are usually surrounded with the fragments of bones that had resisted the fire; for the friends of the deceased were particularly careful to collect every particle; which they placed, with the remains of the charcoal, about the urns, thinking the neglect the utmost impiety, We have no certainty of the ceremonies used by the antient
Britons
on these mournful occasions; but, from many circumstances which we continually discover in our tumuli, there appear many, analogous to those used in antient
Greece
and
Rome.
THE
Greeks
first quenched the funeral pile with wine, and the companions or relations of the departed performed the rest. Such was the ceremony at the funeral of
Patroclus.
Where yet the embers glow,
Wide o'er the pile the sable wine they throw,
And deep subsides the ashy heap below.
Next the white bones his sad companions place,
With tears collected in the golden vase.
The sacred reliques to the tent they bore;
The urn a veil of linen cover'd o'er.
That done, they bid the sepulchre aspire,
And cast the deep foundations round the pyre;
High in the midst they heap the swelling bed
Of rising earth, memorial of the dead
Iliad,
lib.
xxiii. L.
.
POPE.
THE duty of collecting the bones and ashes fell to the next of kin. Thus,
Tibullus
pathetically entreats death to spare him in a foreign land, least he should want the tender offices of his nearest relations:
Me tenet ignotis aegrum
Phaeacia,
terris
Abstineas avidus, mors violenta, manus!
Abstineas, mors atra! precor, non hic mihi mater,
Quae legat in maestos ossa perusta sinus.
Non soror,
Assyrios
cineri quae dedat odores,
Et fleat effusis ante sepulcra comis.
DELIA non usquam
Eigia,
lib. i. el. 3.
!
Here
In
Ph
acia.
,
languishing beneath a foreign sky.
An unknown victim to disease, I lie;
In pity, then, suspend thy lifted dart,
Thou tyrant, Death; nor pierce my throbbing heart:
No mother near me, her last debt to pay,
Collect my bones, my ashes bear away;
No sister o'er my funeral pile shall mourn,
Nor mix
Assyrian
incense in my urn:
Nor,
Deita,
thou, oh thou my soul's first care!
Shall with thy dear, dishevell'd locks, be there.
R. W
I BEG leave to add the account given by
Virgil
of the funereal rites of
Pallas
Lib. xi. I. 184.
. We find in it many ceremonies that were used by the northern nations. Animals of different species were burnt or deposited with the body. The spoils of war, and weapons of various kinds, were placed on the pile; the bones and ashes were collected together; and a heap of earth, or a
tumulus,
flung over them. Each of these circumstances are continually discovered in our barrows. Horns, and other reliques of quadrupeds, weapons of brass and of stone, all placed under the very same sort of tombs as are described by
Homer
and
Virgil.
Perhaps the other ceremonies were not omitted; but we have no record that will warrant us to assert that they were in all respects similar.
Jam pater
Aeneas,
&c.
The
Tuscan
chief and
Trojan
prince command,
To raise the funeral structures on the strand.
Then to the piles, as antient rites ordain,
Their friends convey the relicks of the slain.
From the black flames the sullen vapours rise,
And smoke in curling volumes to the skies.
The foot thrice compass the high-blazing pyres;
Thrice move the horse, in circles, round the fires.
Their tears, as loud they howl at ev'ry round,
Dim their bright arms, and trickle to the ground.
A peal of groans succeeds; and heav'n rebounds
To the mixt cries, and trumpet's martial sounds.
Some, in the flames, the wheels and bridles throw,
The swords and helmets of the vanquishi'd foe:
Some, the known shields their brethren bore in vain,
And unsuccessful jav'lins of the slain.
Now round the piles the bellowing oxen bled,
And bristly swine: in honour of the dead,
The fields they drove, the fleecy flocks they slew,
And on the greedy flames the victims threw.
PITT.
SINCE I am engaged in this funebrious subject, it will be fit to observe, that a discovery of an entire skeleton, placed between flags of a proportionable size, was made near this place. This, as well as others similar in different parts of our islands, evinces that the antient inhabitants did not always commit their bodies to the fire: for, besides this instance, a skeleton thus inclosed was found in one of the
Orknies
Letter from the Rev. Mr.
Low
of
Birsa
, and others in the shire of
Murray;
and with one of the last was found an urn with ashes, and several pieces of charcoal
Tour
Scotl.
1769, q
arto ed.
which-shews, that each practice was in use in the same age.
FROM
Llanarmon
I continued my journey along the bad roads of that parish. The country now grows more contracted, by the approximation of the hills. On one side are the rocky ledges of limestone, in the township of
Tre'r Yrys,
rich in lead-ore; and which is supposed to have taken its name from
Gyrys,
who made the first collection of
Welsh
proverbs, known by the name of
Mad-waith bén Gyrys o Jal,
or the good work of old Gyrys of
Yale.
ON the left are the
Clwydian
hills, which divide this country from the vale of
Clwyd.
These are cultivated pretty high; are free from rocks, covered with heath.
THERE is a
Bwlch,
or pass through these hills, of a most remarkable name, lying between the summits called
Moel Eithinen,
and
Moel Fenlli,
in this parish. This is called
Bwlch Agricla,
or the pass of
Agriccla;
and, since there is no other translation to be given of the
welsh
word, we may conjecture this to have been his passage to
Mona.
That the
Romans
were in after-times resident in these parts, is evident from the number of coins found in the neighborhood, particularly in the parish of
Llanverres,
where abundance of
Denarii
have been met with.
MOEL FENLLI, or
Benlli
's hill, is remarkable for having on it a strong
British
post, guarded as usual by dikes and fosses. This probably was possessed by a chieftain of that name; for
Nennius
C. xxx. xxxi
speaks of such a
regulus
of the country of
Yale;
but, as too usual with our antient historians, blends so ridiculous a legend with the mention of him, as would destroy belief of his existence, did not the hill remain a possible evidence. St.
Germanus,
says the abbot, designed to make this
Benlli
a visit; but meeting with a most inhospitable reception, was kindly entertained by a servant of the king in his humble cottage; who killed his only calf, dressed, and placed it before the saint and his companions. This goodness met with its reward; for lo! the next morning the identical calf was found alive and well with its mother.
A LITTLE beyond this pass, entered the parish of
Llanverres,
rich in mineral. Pass through the village, and by the church. The last is dedicated to St.
Berres (Britius)
disciple of St.
Martin
the
Hungarian,
and his succesor in the bishoprick of
Tours,
the latter end of the fourth century. The church at this time was rebuilding, chiefly by the bounty of Mrs.
Catherine Jones
of
Clommendy.
THE east end of the old church was repaired in 1650, by Dr.
John Davies,
the author of the
Welsh-Latin
dictionary, a most skilful antiquary; native of this parish.
IN the course of my ride, cross the turnpike-road between
Mold
and
Ruthyn;
which, after a long ascent, passes
Bwlch Peny-Barras,
a spot extremely worthy of the traveller's attention, on account of the beautiful view over the vale of
Clwyd.
MY route this time led me eastward, along the great road, into the county of FLINT.
THIS spot being confirmed to it by the event of a most expensive law-suit, by the court of exchequer, in 1763, between the
Grosvenour
family and the lords of the manor of
Mold:
the first claming it as part of his mineral grant of the hundred of
Yale;
the others affirming it to be part of the county of
Flint,
and within the parish of
Mold.
The decision, which was in favor of the lords of
Mold,
is recorded on an arch over a noted stone, called
Carreg Carn March Arthur;
which was then adjudged to be the boundary of the parish of
Mold
in the county of
Flint,
and of
Llanverres
in that of
Denbigh.
I CONTINUED along the great road; and, within two miles of
Mold,
hung long over the charming vale which opens with exquisite beauty from
Vron,
the seat of the ingenious
Richard Williams
Esquire.
Cambria
here lays aside her majestic air, and condescends to assume a gentler form, in order to render less violent her approaching union with her
English
neighbor. It were to be wished she had acted with more moderation, and not outshone it at a rate, the most partial
Saxon
must allow it to have done.
THIS was antiently called
Ystrad-Alun,
or the
Strath
of the
alun;
a comot in the cantref
Y Rhiw:
inhabited by a hardy race, at perpetual feud with the men of
Cheshire
on one side, and the men of
Yale
on the other: for my countrymen never suffered their active swords to rust; in default of
Saxon,
they would take up with the blood of their
Cambrian
neighbors.
ON the first regulation of the
Welsh
counties by
Henry
VIII. this vale, then called
Molesdale,
with the continuation of it which went under the name of
Hopesdale,
were annexed to the county of
Denbigh;
but, in the 33d year of the same monarch, were given to
Flintsire.
ALMOST the whole is seen from this spot; a delicious composition of rich land finely bounded by gentle risings, watered by
Alun,
and varied with a pretty town and fine church in the middle; with numbers of seats, groves, and well-cultivated farms. Among the former appears conspicuous,
Leeswood,
the creation of the late Sir
George Wynne,
rising palace-like along a fine slope on the south side of the vale, surrounded with woods and lawns; a sad
Mausoleum
of fugacious wealth! The distant view is not less beautiful. The three fine estuaries of the
Dee, Weever,
and
Mersey,
the hills of
Cheshire,
and the more remote range of those of
Shropshire, Staffordshire, Derbyshire, Yorkshire, Lancashire, Westmoreland,
and
Cumberland,
complete this beautiful scene.
FROM hence to the town of
Mold
is a pleasant ride.
Mold
consists principally of one broad and handsome street on a gentle rising, in the midst of a small but rich plain. The church is placed on an eminence; and is of the time of
Henry
VIII. adorned with a very handsome steeple built of late years. Before the Reformation, it belonged to the abby of
Bustlesham,
or
Bysham,
in
Berkshire.
The living is a vicarage, and has dependent on it the chapelries of
Nerquys
and
Treuddyn.
THE architecture of the church is of the gothic of that period, the windows large, and their arches obtuse. Within and without, is a row of animals carved, as usual at that period. The same may be observed on the old building over St.
Winifrede
's well. The inside is extremely elegant; consists of a nave and two ailes, supported by seven arches, whose pillars are much to be admired for their lightness. They consist of four round pilasters, with the intermediate space hollowed, and the capitals elegantly carved. Between the springs of every arch is an angel holding a shield, on which are either the arms of benefactors, or the instruments of the Passion. The arms of the
Stanlies,
who long possessed this manor, are very frequent. Among the other sculptures, is the
Veronica,
or face of our Saviour impressed on a handkerchief given to him by a woman on his way to the place of crucifixion. He took it, wiped his face, and returned it with the miraculous impression. This precious relique is preserved in St.
Peter
's at
Rome,
and the woman worshipped as a saint, under the name of the
Handkerchief;
which at first was called the
Vera Icon,
or true image; but becoming thus personified, received the title of St.
Veronica.
Beneath two windows above the chancel, are carved in a rude manner, the nails, pincers, and other tokens of the crucifixion.
AT the eastern ends of the two ailes are three gothic niches elegantly carved. They formerly were filled with images, now destroyed. The two in the south aile are almost hid with monuments. Among them is a very superb one in memory of
Robert Davies,
Esq
of
Llanerch,
with his figure in a standing attitude, and dressed in a
Roman
habit.
NEAR it is a mural monument of his ancestor, another
Robert Davies,
of
Gwysaney
This gentleman died in 1666: the preceding, in
May
1728.
, the paternal seat of the family, and the residence, before the acquisition of
Llanerch
in the vale of
Clwyd,
by the marriage of this gentleman with
Anne
daughter and heiress to Sir
Peter Mutton
knight.
NOT far from
Mold
stands
Gwysaney;
a most respectable old house, beautifully situated. It was of strength sufficient to be garrisoned, in the time of the civil wars; and was taken, on the 12th of
April
1645, by Sir
William Brereton
Whitelock,
142.
.
NEAR this is an antient mural monument,
MONUMENTS.
in memory of,
Robert Warton,
alias
Parfew.
He was first abbot of
Bermondsey,
and elected to the see of St.
Asaph
in 1536. He lived much at
Denbigh
and
Wrexham
during his continuance in this see
Willis's Bangor,
341.
Cathedrals,
i. 521.
Athenae Oxon.
i. 682.
and was removed to that of
Hereford
in 1554, where he died in 1557. He was unjustly accused of impairing the revenues of this diocese: on the contrary, it appears, that he had been a considerable benefactor to the churches of
Gresford, Wrexham,
and
Mold;
which, probably, he found in an unfinished state. He was interred at
Hereford,
under a handsome tomb with his effigies; but this grateful memorial of his benevolence to the church of
Mold
was erected, as an inscription beneath once informed, by one
John ap Rys. Hoc opus factum fuerit, per John ap Rys.
Above are his arms in a shield, quartered with those of the see of St.
Asaph;
and over them a label, inscribed,
Robtus pmissione Divinâ Epus
ASSAV. An angel supports one end; a bishop the other.
THE epitaph on the reverend Doctor
Wynne,
composed by himself, several years before his decease, merits publication.
WILLIAM WYNNE of
Tower,
D. D.
Some time fellow of
All-Souls
College in
Oxford,
and rector of
Llanvechan
in this diocese, departed this life aged
He died
March
3d 1776, aged 77. This, now, fills these blanks.
In conformity to an antient usage, from a proper regard to decency, and a concern for the health of his fellow-creatures, he was moved to give particular directions for being buried in the adjoining church-yard, and not in the church.
And, as he scorned flattering of others while living, he has taken care to prevent being flattered himself when dead, by causing this small memorial to be set up in his life-time.
GOD, be merciful to me a sinner! Heb
DDUW,
Heb ddim.
At the north-end of the town stands the mount, to which it owes the
British
and
Latin
names, YR WYDDGRUG, and MONS ALTUS,
the lofty
or
conspicuous mount.
This is partly natural, partly artificial. Our
British
ancestors, and afterwards the
Saxons
and
Normans,
taking advantage of so defencible an eminence, cut it into form, and placed on it a castle. It is possible, that the
Romans
might also have had some concern in it; for a beautiful gold coin of
Vespasian
was found here; but this being the only proof of its having been possessed by them, I shall not insist on it any farther than to urge the probability;
Mold
being in the neighborhood of many of their mines, and of places where much of their money has been found.
THE mount is now called the
Bailey
-hill, from the word
Ballium,
or castle-yard. It appears to have been strongly fortified by great ditches, notwithstanding its arduous ascent. It is divided into three parts: the lower
Ballium
or yard; the upper; and the keep, or
Donjon.
The tops of the two first are levelled by art; and all are separated by deep fosses. The keep was on a part greatly and artificially elevated; and around its edges are a few stones, the only reliques of the fortress. On one side of the upper yard are found vast quantities of bones, some human; others of animals, mostly domestic, such as of oxen, sheep, horses, and hogs; and a few remnants of horns of stags and roe-bucks.
THE summit of this hill commands a short but most exquisite view of the circumjacent vale; and to the west,
Moel famma
rises with aweful pre-eminence among the
Clwydian
hills.
THE first certain account I have of this place is in the reign of
William Rufus,
when we find it in possession of
Eustace Cruer
Powel,
151.
, who then did homage for
Mold
and
Hopedale;
he, probably, having been the person who had ravished them from the antient owners.
IN the end of the reign of
Henry
I. or the beginning of that of
Stephen, Robert,
called, from his residence at this place,
de Montalto,
high steward of
Chester,
and one of the barons of the
Norman
earls, became owner of it. We are informed, that the castle was at this time very strong; and that it had been often besieged; but never taken, till the
Welsh,
no longer able to bear the ravages of the garrison, attempted, in 1144,
1144.
the reduction of it, under the conduct of their gallant prince
Owen Gwynedd.
The garrison, for a considerable time, defended the place with great courage; but at length it was taken by storm; part of the defendants slain, the others taken prisoners, and the fortress razed to the ground
Idem, 199.
.
AFTER this it was again restored; for we find in the
aerae Cambro-Britannicae
At the end of
Llwya
's Commentariolum, 157.
,
1198.
that it was taken, in the winter of 1198, by
Llewelyn ap Jorwerth:
and about the year 1267 it was a third time besieged, taken, and demolished, by
Gryffydd ap Gwenwynwyn,
lord of
Powis.
THE gentry of
Ystrad-alun
or
Molesdale
were among the principal complainants of wrongs done to them by
Roger de Clifford,
justiciary of
Chester,
and his deputy
Roger Scrochil,
a little before our subjection by
Edward
I. They alleged, that their lands were taken from them; that they were grievously and unjustly fined on trivial occasions; and that, after paying a sum for exemption from
English
laws, they were obliged to submit to a trial by jury, or by twelve men, contrary to the usage of their country
Powel,
356.
.
MUCH of the country was, in this reign, so covered with, woods, that
Edward,
before his conquest of
Wales,
was obliged to cut a passage through them, in the tract between
Mold
and a place then called
Swerdewood;
and to direct, that nothing should be required for the damage done to the owners
Rotuli Wallia,
75,
Anno
9
Edwardi
I.
Febr.
5. 128. We find a similar order in
Rymer.
. I find he called in a number of cutters for this purpose; and in the next year, not fewer than two hundred cutters and colliers
(carbonarii)
who were summoned out of the forest of
Dean,
and the county of
Hereford,
under the conduct of
Gilbert de Clare
earl of
Gloster.
IN the year 1322, Sir
Gryffydd Llwyd,
a valiant gentleman, who was knighted by
Edward
I. on bringing the news of the birth of his son
Edward
of
Caernarvon;
and who, after our conquest, adhered to the
English,
till he thought their yoke intolerable; rose in arms, over-run all
North Wales
and the
Marches;
and, among others, seized on this castle; but his attempt was unsuccessful, being defeated and taken prisoner
Powel,
383.
Wynn,
313.
.
FROM this time we hear no more of it as a place of defence,
Matthew Paris
and
Dugdale
M. Paris,
855.
Dugdale Baron.
i. 527.
confound it with
Hawarden,
and assert it to have been attacked or taken by
David,
brother to the last
Llewelyn. Mold
continued in possession of the posterity of
Robert,
1302.
who did homage for it in 1302, at
Chester,
to
Edward
prince of
Wales;
1327.
but in 1327, the last baron, in default of male issue, conveyed it to
Isabel,
queen of
Edward
II. for life; and afterwards to
John
of
Eltham,
younger brother to
Edward
III; who died without issue, and his possessions reverted to the crown.
I AM uncertain how long the crown reserved this lordship. I find it was granted to the
Stanley
family, perhaps to Sir
John Stanley,
by
Henry
IV. at the same time that he bestowed on him
Hope
and
Hopedale.
The earls of
Derby
possessed it till the execution of earl
James;
after which, both the manor of
Hope
and
Mold
were purchased by certain persons, who enjoyed them till the Restoration: after that event, a reference was made by his majesty, in 1662, to the lords, respecting the re-purchase of those manors by the earl of
Derby;
in which it had been agreed by his lordship, to pay the parties, on the 26th of
March
1664, the sum of eleven thousand pounds, and to be put into full possession of the manors. The lords imagined that every thing had been adjusted; but the earl of
Derby
refusing to perform his part, the referrees layed the affair before the king; who, on the 14th of
June
1664, ordered that the former purchasers should remain in quiet possession. The
Derby
family, by some means, regained the lordship of
Hope;
but that of
Mold
is at present the property of lady
Vincent.
The mineral advantages of the manor, which have, at times, been very considerable, are equally, divided between her ladyship, the
Trevors,
and Mr.
Lloyd
of
Tyddyn.
FROM
Mold,
I took the west side of the vale; a tract filled with numbers of gentlemen's seats of independent fortunes, as yet not caught and absorbed in the gulphy vortex of our
Leviathans.
These are the remnants of the custom of gavel-kind, so prevalent formerly in
North Wales,
and which have remained unimproved by those accidents which, by time and chance, happen to many. I digressed a little to the right, to see the magnificent gates of
Leeswood,
the seat of the late Sir
George Wynne
baronet: and a little higher up to
Tower,
TOWER.
to enjoy the witty, the lively and agreeable conversation of the reverend Doctor
William Wynne
(now departed). This gentleman was one of those who kept the patrimony derived from a long train of ancestors, without increase, yet without impair. The house is small; but part of it is a true specimen of the border-houses on the confines of
England
and
Scotland:
a square tower: of three stories. In the lower, still remains a staple in the ceiling; a memorial of the rudeness of the times. During the wars between the houses of
York
and
Lancaster,
this place was inhabited by
Reinallt ap Gryffydd ap Bleddyn,
one of the six gallant captains who defended
Harlech
castle on the part of
Henry
VI. He and his people were in continual feud with the citizens of
Chester.
In 1465, a considerable number of the latter came to
Mold
fair; a fray ensued between the two parties; a dreadful slaughter was made on both sides: but
Reinallt
got the victory; took prisoner
Robert Bryne
linen-draper, and mayor of
Chester
in 1461, whom he led to his tower, and hung on the staple in his great hall. An attempt was made afterwards to seize
Reinallt;
and two hundred tall men sallied from
Chester
for that purpose. He retired from his house to a neighboring wood, permitted part of his enemies to enter the building; then rushing from his cover, fastened the door; and, setting fire to the place, burnt them without mercy: he then attacked the rest, pursued them to the sea-side, where those who escaped the sword, perished in the channel. His actions were celebrated at the time, in poems still extant; particularly by
Lewis Glyn Cothi,
in an
Awdl
A
Cywydd
and an
Awdl
differ in these respects: the first consists of couplets generally of seven syllables; the last of stan
as of different lengths of metre; somewhat like a
Pindaric
ode.
, in praise of
Reinallt.
It seems
Lewis
had married a widow of
Chester,
against the consent of the inhabitants; who spoiled him of all his effects. This whetted the poet's satyr:
Who summons the ministry of angels and of devils to his assistance; and pours a profusion of curses on
Caer Lleon
and its people. He wishes water to drown, fire to burn, and air to infect the hated place; and that grass might grow in every part, except the sacred edifices, of this habitation of the seven deadly sins.
THE TOWER, in old times, was called after the name of this hero. It was also named
Bryn-coed,
from the wood that might have surrounded it. In the time of
Leland
it was inhabited by
John Wynn ap Robert.
I DESCENDED into my former road, and passed along the course of the
Terrig,
or the
violent;
TERRIG.
at this time a trifling brook; but often of a tremendous swell and fury. On quitting its channel, go by
Leeswood,
or
Coed-Llai,
the antient seat of my worthy relation
Thomas Eyton
esquire. The
Davieses
of
Gwasaney,
the
Wynnes
of
Tower;
and this family, sprung from
Kynrig Evell,
or
the Twin,
son of
Madoc ap Meredydd
prince of lower
Powys
Madoc
died in 1160.
. He was styled lord of
Eglwyseg;
and had beside, for his portion,
Molesdale,
and
Treuddyn
in the parish of
Mold;
which, by the custom of gavel kind, became divided among his posterity; part of which, these families, his descendants, still enjoy.
FARTHER on is
Hartsheath,
the house of
Guillim Wardle
esquire, descended, by the female line, from the
Lloyds
of the same place. It is most beautifully seated on a long rising, insulated by the vale, and finely wooded and cultivated. The house stands on the southern extremity, and commands a most elegant view of the valley, divided by the insulated rock of
Caergwrle,
soaring out of the valley, and capped with a ruined castle.
A LITTLE further up the vale stands
Plâs-Têg;
PLAS-TEG.
a singular house, belonging to the
Trevors;
but, for numbers of years, occupied by farmers. The
Trevors
acquired it by the marriage of
Robert Trevor
of
Brynkinalt,
with
Katherine
daughter of
Llewelyn ap Ithel
of the
Mold
and
Plâs-têg.
It is built with great regularity and simple grandeur. In the centre is a hall forty-three feet long by twenty-three. A spacious stair-case; and above, is a dining-room of the same dimensions with the hall, and twelve feet nine inches high. At each corner of the house is a square wing or tower, consisting (as does the centre) of five floors. In each is a room twenty-two feet six, by nineteen six; and within each of these rooms a closet thirteen feet seven inches square.
THIS house was built in 1610 by Sir
John Trevor
Epitaph in
H
pe
church.
, a second son of the branch of
Trevalun.
The design is attributed to
Inigo Jones;
but I doubt the tradition. It wants both the
Grecian
-gothic ornaments of his worse days, and the pure
Grecian
of his best.
FROM hence I pursued my journey to
Caergwrle,
CAERGWRLE.
a village on the banks of the
Alun,
in the parish of
Hope
or
Estyn,
whose form speaks it to have been a
Roman
station, which appears very evident to the antiquarian eye, from the summit of the adjacent rock, the site of the castle. The precincts shew themselves to have been rectangular, with one side formed by the s
ope along the banks of the river. Here is yet preserved the antient disposition, in three broad streets, running parallel, and three narrower intersecting them at right angles. It had been only a small place, an out-post to
Deva;
but had the usual concomitants of
Roman
luxury.
RO
.
In
Camden
's time (1606) a
hy
was discovered near the place five ells long, four broad, and half an ell high, cut out of the live rock. The s
oo
was of brick set in mortar: the roof supported by brick pillars; and consisted of polished tiles, perforated; on these were laid certain brick tubes which conveyed the heat to the room above. On some of those tiles were inbscribed LEGIO XX
Camden,
ii. 828.
. which point out the founders. I have also been credibly informed, that
Roman
bricks were found in the ruins of the old house of
Hope,
the seat of the family of the same name. I have also heard, that large beds of iron cinders have been discovered near
Caer Estyn
in this parish, the supposed works of the
Romans.
BESIDES these proofs, here is the trace of a
Roman
road, pointing from the village towards
Mold,
and is visible in two or three places; especially in the fields on this side of
Plâs-têg.
I think that part of the present road was a portion of the
Roman.
An artificial mount stands close on its course.
ROADS.
Another road points towards
Hawarden;
which increases my suspicion of that having also been a
Roman
out-post. As the word
street
is generally a sign of a
Roman
road, there might have been a third on the
Wrexham
side of
Caergwrle;
for we find on that road,
Croes y street
passing over a place called
Cesn y Bêdd,
or the hill of the grave, and leading to the castle. These roads were one way into some of the mineral parts of
Wales,
where
Roman
money had been found.
MR. EDWARDS makes a happy conjecture respecting the etymology of the name of this place.
Caer Gawr Lle,
or the camp of the
Giant Legion, Lleon Gawr;
for the
Britons
bestowed that title on the twentieth legion, to imply its power; a turn analogous to
Victrix,
giving it the strength of a giant
This gave rise to the fable of
Chester
having been built by
Lleon Gawr,
a mighty giant. See p. 106. Mr. CAMDEN, by mistake, calls the legion
Leon Vawr.
.
THIS place, in the division of
Wales
by
Roderic
the great, formed part of the
Cantref y Rhiw.
When the
Saxons
made a conquest of our borders, they comprehended it in their hundred called
Exestan,
and added it to the county of
Chester.
We find in the Doomsday book, that
Hope
(which gives name to the parish) was held at that period by one
Gislebert;
before by
Edwevi
a freeman. In after times, this tract was known by the name of
Hopedale.
On the division of
Wales
into counties by
Edward
I. it was annexed to
Flintshire;
was severed from it, and added to
Denbighshire
by
Henry
VIII.; and in the same reign, restored to the former county. It is a common notion in the country, that the last was effected by the interest of the earl of
Derby,
in order to have his
Welsh
estates in the same county; for at that time, the family was possessed of
Hawarden, Molesdale,
and this
manor;
which had been granted, on
January
1st 1401, by
Henry
IV. to Sir
John Stanley.
The family had at the same time, the lordship of
Maelor Saesneg,
which was a portion of
Flintshire
since its first being formed into a county. This manor of
Hope
is the only one possessed at present in
Wales
by the earl of
Derby.
THE castle of
Caergwrle
stood on the summit of a great rock,
CASTLE.
precipitous on one side, and of steep ascent on the others. Some of the walls, and part of a round tower still remain, sufficient to shew, that its size was never great. Close to it, on the accessible parts, it was protected by very deep fosses cut through the rock. On the north-east side, there is a pretty extensive area; and round its verge the vestiges of a rampart of earth and stones, and a foss, such as usual in the
British
posts: it may be therefore supposed, that it had been possessed by the
Britons
in early times; and that it served to defend, in conjunction with
Caer Estyn,
CAER ESTYN.
a
British
post of one rampart and ditch on the opposite side of the dale above the village, the entrance through this pass into
Wales.
The vale almost closes in this place, leaving only room enough for the
Alun
to flow through its picturesque dingles, till it gains the open country near the church of
Gresford.
I CANNOT trace the founder of this castle.
FOUNDER.
It probably was one of the few
Welsh
fortresses that we have to boast of. Its oblong form; its comparative deficiency of towers; and its general agreement in structure, with others whole origin I am acquainted with, make me willing to suppose it the work of our countrymen, after they had recovered possession of this tract. In the reign of
Owen Gwynedd,
I find it part of the estates of
Gryffydd Maelor
Powel,
211.
.
DAVID, brother to
Llewelyn,
last prince of
Wales,
held it from
Edward
I.
David
made great complaints of the injurious treatment he met with from
Roger de Clifford,
the justiciary of
Chester,
who cut down his woods about
Hope;
and endeavored to dispossess him of his rights
The same, 350.
. When
David
took up arms in defence of his brother, he left a garrison in this castle; but in
June
1282, it surrendered to the
English
monarch. As soon as it came into his possession, he bestowed it, with all its appertenances, on his beloved consort
Eleonora
AYLOFF'S Rot. Walliae, 87.
; from which it acquired the name of Queen
Hope.
The queen lodged here in her way to
Caernarvon,
where her husband sent her to give the
Welsh
a ruler born among them. Either at this time, or soon after, the castle was burnt by a casual fire.
IN 1307, the first of
Edward
II. this castle and manor was granted to
John de Cromwell,
JOHN DE CROMWELL.
on condition that he should repair the castle, then in a ruinous state: and in 1317, he was directed to raise fifty foot-soldiers for the wars in
Scotland,
out of his lands in this country
Dugdale Baron.
1. 44, 45. Rotuli
Scotiae,
136.
. From his death, I find a gap in the succession, till the time they were given to Sir
John Stanley.
CAERGWRLE, with
Hope,
is a prescriptive borough, and, in conjunction with
Flint, &c.
sends a member to parlement.
WEST of the castle, on a lofty hill,
BRYN YORKYN.
is
Bryn Yorkyn,
the paternal seat of
Ellis Yonge
Esq
a descendant of the fertile stock of the often mentioned
Tudor Trevor. Jorwerth,
the twelsth in descent, marrying the daughter of
William le Yonge
of
Croxton
Sa
s
ury
Pe. digree, 36. b.
, called his children after their mother's name, which was continued by the family.
LLEWELYN AP DAVYDD AP MEREDYDD, a descendant of
Ynyr
of
Yale,
had estates in this parish, which were forfeited in the reign of
Henry
IV, for his adherence to
Owen Glyndwr,
and bestowed on
Jenkin Hope,
great grandson of
Hugh Hope
of
Hawarden
The same, p. 52. b. 67.
.
THE parish is divided by the
Alun:
the village and church of
Hope
lies about a mile from the castle on the north side of the stream.
CHURCH.
The church is dedicated to St.
Cynfar.
The monuments of note are, two to the
Trevors
of
Plâs-têg;
one, which is mural, to Sir
John Trevor
knight, founder of that house, and secretary to the earl of
Nottingham,
victor over the invincible
armaaa,
and comptroller of the navy in the reigns of
Elizabeth
and
James
I. He died at his neighboring seat, in 1629, aged 67.
THE other is also mural; with two kneeling figures: the man in a gown and ruff; the lady with a kerchief over her neck. This wants an inscription; but by the arms appears to have belonged to a
Trevor.
ABUNDANCE of limestone is burnt into lime on
Caergwrle
hill; a lofty mountain, composed of that species of stone; from which a vast trade is carried into
Cheshire.
ENTROCHI.
Near the top are found in loose earth, numbers of the bodies called
entrochi,
of a curious and uncommon sort, with round protuberant joints. Fossilists suppose them to have been parts of some species of arborescent sea-star, whose branches bear a resemblance to these substances.
IN former times, millstones were cut out of the rock on which the castle stands, which is composed of small pebbles lodged in grit.
ON
Rhyddyn
demesne, belonging to Sir
John Glynne,
adjoining to the
Alun,
are two springs, strongly impregnated with salt;
SALT SPRINGS.
to which, in dry weather, used to be a great resort of pigeons to pick up the hardened particles. These were formerly resorted to, as a remedy in scorbutic cases. The patients drank a quart or two in a day; and some boiled the water till half was wasted, before they took it. The effect was, purging, griping, and sickness at the stomach, which went off in a few days, and then produced a good appetite. Dr.
Short
gives an instance of a woman in a deplorable situation from a deep scurvy, who was perfectly restored by the use of these springs.
FROM the village of
Hope,
I returned on the north side of the valley; re-passed
Mold;
and, about a mile west of the town, visited
Maes-Garmon;
MAES-GARMON.
a spot that still retains the name of the saintly commander in the celebrated battle, the
Victoria Alleluictica,
fought in 420, between the
Britons,
headed by the bishops
Germanus
and
Lupus,
and a crowd of pagan
Picts
and
Saxons,
who were carrying desolation through the country. This event happened in
Easter
week, when the Christian army, wet with their recent baptism in the river
Alun,
were led by their holy commanders against the pagan host.
Germanus
instructed them to attend to the word he gave, and repeat it. Accordingly, he pronounced that of ALLELUIA. His soldiers caught the sacred sound, and repeated it with such ecstatic force, that the hills resounding with the cry, struck terror into the enemy, who fled on all sides; numbers perished by the sword, and numbers in the adjacent river
Brit. Eccles. Antiquitates, 335.
Paulus Diaconus,
lib. xv. c. 12. and BEDE, lib. i. c. 20. describe the action.
.
SUCH is the relation given by
Constantius
of
Lyons,
who wrote the life of St.
Germanus,
within thirty-two years after the death of the saint. It has been objected by cavillers, that the
Saxons
were not at that time, possessed of
Britain.
That may be admitted; but the learned USHER overthrows the objection, by rightly observing, that those people had, long before, made temporary invasions of our island, and committed great ravages in several parts; and calls to witness
Ammianus Marcellinus
Lib. xxvi. c. 4.
: and to his authority, I may add, that the
Romans
found it necessary to have, in the later times, a new officer to watch their motions, and repel their invasions, a
comes littoris
SAXONICI
per
BRITANNIAS.
MAES-GARMON, the scene of this celebrated victory, lies near
Rhual,
the pleasant seat of
Thomas Griffith
Esq
whose uncle,
Nehemiah Griffith,
erected a column, with the following inscription, to perpetuate the memory of the spot.
Ad Annum CCCCXX
Saxones Pictiq.
Bellum adversus
Britones
junctis viribus susciperunt In hac regione Hodieq. MAESGARMON appellata; cum in praelium descenditur, Apostolicis
Britonum
Ducibus Germano et LUPO, CHRISTUS militabat in Castris: ALLELUIA tertio repetitum exclamabant Hostile agmen terrore prosternitur: Triumphant Hostibus fusis sine sanguine palma Fide, non Viribus obtenta M. P. in VICTORIAE ALLELUIATICAE memoriam N. G. MDCCXXXVI.
FROM hence I proceeded towards
Kilken;
and saw in my way,
Hesp-alun
i. c.
the dry
Alun.
;
HESP-ALUN.
the place where the river
Alun,
like the sullen
Mole
or mourning
Guadiana,
sinks under ground, and continues a subterraneous course for half a mile, and then emerges to the day. About two miles distant from this place lies the church or
Kilken,
beneath
Moel Famm
,
the highest division of the
Clwydian
hills.
CLWYDIAN HILLS.
These run in a chain from above
Presta
yn
on the estuary of the
Dee,
from north to south as far as
Moel Yr accre
in
Llanarmon
parish; when they join the
Mountain Cefn du,
extending to the parish of
Gwyddelwern.
These admit no passage the whole way, excepting that of
Bodvari,
without climbing the steep sides, and going through the
bwlchs
formed high up between the round heathy heads that rise from the mass, more than two-thirds of the way to the summits; and which form, from the west side of the vale of
Clwyd,
a most beautiful view, especially in the season when it glows with the p
rple flowers of the heath. A few birds, lovers of exalted situations, are still to be found here; a few black and red grous have escaped the rage of shooters; and I have seen the
ringeuz
about the lower parts. These hills are composed of a mixed soil, clay, and gravel. The stone is of a shattery laminated nature, and bad for most o
conomic uses. The sides abound in springs, which descend in small rills, to the great benefit of the inhabitants of the rich slopes.
THE church of
Kilken
is remarkable for its carved roof;
KILLEN CHURCH.
which is said to have been brought from the church at
Basingwere
abby on the dissolution: and thus to have fulfilled a prophecy of our
Robin Ddu,
who, when he saw it put up by the monks, observed, it would do very well for a church beneath
Moel Famma.
IN this parish, on the side of the turnpike road, not far from
Kilken hall,
is the noted
Fsynnon Leinw,
or the
flowing well;
FSYNNON LEINW.
a large oblong well with a double wall round it. This is taken notice of by
Camden
for its flux and reflux; but the singularity has ceased since his time, according to the best information I can receive.
NEAR this well, is
Kilken hall,
a seat of a branch of the
Mastyns,
now the property of the reverend Mr.
Edwards
of
Pentre,
in
Montgomeryshire,
in right of his wife,
Charlotte Mostyn,
heiress of the place.
THIS fountain lies in the vale of
Nannerch;
VALE OF NANNERCU.
which extends one way to
Mold;
and at the other joins with that of
Bodvari,
the inlet into the vale of
Clwyd.
The
Wheeler,
a pretty stream, rises on the east side; and after a short course, falls into the
Clwyd.
The house of
Penbedw,
the seat of
Watkin Williams
Esq
is a great ornament to this little valley.
PENBEDW.
In this gentleman's library are some remains of the collection of Sir
Kenelm Digby,
some curious illuminated books; and the superb pedigree
Mention is made of it in
Wood's Athenae. Oxon.
ii. 354. and the
Brit.
Blog. iii. 1313. By permission of Mr.
Williams,
I caused several of the tombs to be copied; and that of Lady
Venetia Digby
to be engraven in the
Antiquary's Reportery.
of the
Digby
family, and its alliances, with all the arms and tombs that were extant, painted in the most exquisite manner, at the expence of above a thousand pounds; a vast sum at the time of the compilation, in the year 1634.
PENBEDW is seated in a manor of the same name, granted, in 1544, by
Henry
VIII. and witnessed by queen
Catherine Parr,
to
Peter (Pyers) ap Howel,
alias
Peter Mostyn,
of
Wespre,
in consideration of the payment of seventy-three pounds in hand. The grant recites, that it had been parcel of the possessions of the earl of
Kent.
IN the meadows below the house,
BRITISH POSTS.
is part of a druidical circle, and a small
tumulus.
On one of the summits of the mountain, at a great height above the house, is a very strong
British
post, with two ditches of prodigious depth, with suitable dikes on the accessible sides: and on that which is inaccessible, is a smooth terras, levelled along the hill, probably a place for exercising the possessors. This post is called
Moel
ARTHUR, probably in honor of our celebrated prince.
MOEL ARTHUR.
This is one of the chain of posts that defended the country of the
Ordovices,
and their successors, against the inroads of invaders. They are far from being peculiar to that nation; but were the common mode of defence throughout the whole island. I conjecture that their origin was very early; but that they were occasionally made use of in after times, even as low as that of
Owen Glyndwr.
Almost all are rendered defensible in the same manner, by deep ditches and high-banks, formed either of earth or of loose stones, with one, but generally two entrances. In the description of that of
Caractacus
by
Tacitus,
their formation is exactly shewn:
Tunc montibus arduis, et si qua clementer accedi poterant, in modum. valli saxa praestruit
Taciti
Annales, lib. xii. c. 33.
. They are of no certain shape; but the precinct conforms to that of the hill.
THEIR USES.
They are generally destitute of water; which evinces, that they were not intended as places of long abode, but merely temporary retreats for their families, herds, and flocks on a sudden invasion. The fighting men kept the field, while all that was dear or valuable, was committed to these
asyla
under a proper garrison.
THEY are always placed within sight of one another; so that by fires, or other signals, notice might be given of the approach of an enemy.
FIRT, MOEL HIRADDIG.
The first that forms this chain is
Moel Hiraddig,
about two or three miles from the sea, on a rocky hill, in the parish of
Cwm.
Possibly, prior to the castle of
Diserth,
another post might have been on that rock; and in such case, should be esteemed the first post, the guard of the shore, and the great artificial mount above
Newmarket,
called
Cop yr Gole
i,
or
Mount
of
Light;
which may be seen from most of the others, might be the spot from whence the signal might be given of the approach of the enemy by sea; whether they were
Saxons
or plundering
Scoti.
THE next to
Moel Hiraddig,
MOEL Y GAER.
is a
Moel y Gaer,
in the parish of
Bodvari,
above the entrance of the inlet into the vale of
Clwyd.
THE third are the vast entrenchments on
Bryn y Cloddiau,
or the hill of ditches.
BRYN Y CLODDIAU.
This is the largest we have; being a mile and a half in circuit, and defended by single, double, triple, and even quadruple ditches, according to the exigencies of the sides. In the foss next to the area, are numbers of hollows, as if designed for lodgments of men, or a particular guard.
MOEL ARTHUR is the next. Almost opposite to it, on
Helkin
mountain,
MOEL Y CRIO.
on the highest part, is
Moel y Crio;
a vast artificial mount, that seems to be a middle post between this, and the
Moel y Gaer
in
Northop
parish;
SECOND, MOEL Y GAER.
but our ignorance in the art military of those days, prevents us from pointing out the immediate use.
NEXT succeeds
Meel Fenlli.
MOEL FENLLI, AND THIRD, MOEL Y GAER.
Beneath that is another post, on a lesser hill which juts into the vale of
Clwyd,
and is called by the common name of
Moel y Gaer.
These are all that seem destined for the defence of this part of the country.
CAER-ESTYN,
CAER ESTYN.
and the post opposite on
Caergwrle
rock, defended that front. Farther on was
Hawarden;
and still farther, where the vale of
Cheshire
gains upon our country, was that of the
Rosts,
in the parish of
Gresford.
I could give a long list of these posts, perhaps as far as the
Severn
sea, in the country of the
Silures,
and the
Trans-s
brine
parts of the
Cornavii;
but their suffice for the present purpose. I shall endeavor (in Mr.
a
s
's map) to point out the whole of these fastnesses of our di
t
ant ancestors.
SOON after passing
Penbedw,
NANEERCH.
I reached
Nannerch,
a hamlet with a small church, noted for little but a monument, in memory of
Charlot
Theophila Mostyn,
wife to
Richard Mostyn
Esq
former owner of
Peabedw,
and daughter and co-heiress (with her si
ter
Magare
ta Maria,
who married Sir
John Conway
of
Bediruddan,
to
John Digby,
son of the famous Sir
Kenelm;
by which means, several choice morsels of his collection came into our country.
GRATITUDE to the worthy rector of this place, the reverend Mr.
John Lloyd,
for the many informations I received from him, respecting the antiquities of our country, urges me here to make my best acknowlegements. Few possess so large a share of the knowlege of our language, and of our history; and few have been so liberal in the communication.
THIS valley is a boundary of the mineral tract of our county.
MINERAL TRACT.
I shall now take a kind of bird's eye view of the whole, which I surrounded, beginning with the northern extremity. The highland part may be divided into two.
FIRST DIVISION.
The first is insulated by valley, plain, and sea. The farther point is
Dalar Goch,
or the rock of
Diserth,
bounded by the rich, arable slats of
Rudland;
the course is continued southward through the parishes of
Cwm, Dimeirchion,
and
Caerwys,
bounded by the vale of
Clwyd,
and that of
Bodvari.
The parishes of
Ysgeiviog
and
Nannerch
succeed, and after them a portion of
Kilken,
when this mineral tract takes a turn above the parish of
Mold
at
Rhos Esmor
in that of
Northop;
and then faces the east in the parishes of
Halkin
and
Holywell,
in those of
Whiteford, Llanasa, Gwaenyskar,
and
Meliden,
and makes a point towards the west, where it unites with the rock of
Diserth.
THE second division is separated from the first by a deep depression of the country between
Rhos Esmor,
SECOND DIVISION.
and the parish of
Mold.
There is even in the lower parts, on the west side, a chain of mines. But the land rises again at
Mold
mountain, and the mineral tract is continued through the parishes of
Llanverres,
the eastern sides of
Llanarmon, Llandegla,
the
Glisseg
rocks, and
Minera
above
Wrexham.
THE middle of the first division is entirely limestone, as is the western side, from
Dalar goch
to
Rhos Esmor:
from thence, or on the eastern side the strata alters.
LIME-STONE.
Towards the skirts of the hills,
CHERT.
it changes to that flinty substance called
chert,
more or less pure.
SHALE.
Lower down it degenerates into shale of a black stone, soon dissoluble in the air. So far lead-ore is found. Sy
after this strata, free-stone commences,
FREE-STONE.
and coals are found, which continue to the shore, and under the sea, till they appear on the opposite side in the peninsula of
Wiral,
and again beyond the estuary of the
Mersey.
THE same observations might be made on the
strata
in the second division. Limestone beds are continued on the western. side beyond the
Gliseg
rocks, and in their neighborhood on both sides of the
Dee.
The veins in
Minera
lie in an impure gritty chert. The sudden change of
Strata
is very observable. The transition may be immediately seen on each side of the narrow vale of
Nannerch,
limestone forming the one, and the shattery slaty stone composing the other.
WAS I to continue my aerial speculation, I should see a discontinuance of the limestone
strata
till they rose on the opposite side of the vale of
Clwyd.
My eye would catch the most remote part on the northern side of
Red Wharf-bay
in
Anglesea,
insulated far from any other. The great promontories of
Llandudus
and
Rhiwledin,
or the greater and lesser
Ormshead,
the first (at times rich in copper) would next appear.
Penmaen Rhos,
and the continued precipices along the coast of
Denbighshire,
succeed in the nearer view, many of them productive of lead ore. And, finally, the detatched rocks of
Henllan
beyond
Denbigh,
and
Coed Marchon
beyond
Ruthyn,
which yield to the industrious farmer, by their excellent lime, a manure more certainly productive of wealth, than the precarious search after the deep-hid minerals.
THE limestone and the chert of our mineral tracts are of unknown depth; neither their bottom, nor that of the fissars or veins which cross them, have ever been discovered.
DEPTH OF VEINS.
The ore of lead has been followed to the depth of a hundred and thirty, or a hundred and forty yards, and then has ceased; but the unprofitable vein appears below unclosed. Our mines, as I have shewn before, have been worked from very early times
P. 51.
, but not without long interruptions. But as several of our veins have been pursued for a hundred years past, the point may be affirmed of the depth to which they bear ore in our country.
THE veins run either north and south, or east and west.
THEIR COURSE.
But it is remarkable, that the lead ore got in the first, scarcely ever produces a quantity of silver worth the refiner's labor. The ores of
Mold
mountain, and
Minera,
yield scarcely any silver.
THE minerals of the tracts in question, are ore of lead, calamine, or
Lapis calaminaris;
and a mineral, that answers the same purpose, called by the miners
black jack.
OUR ores of lead differ in quality. The lamellated,
ORES OF LEAD: THEIR PRODUCE OF LEAD.
or common kind, usually named
potters ore,
yields from fourteen to sixteen hundred and a quarter of lead, from twenty hundred of the ore: but the last produce is rare.
THE quantity of silver produced from our lead is also variable.
OF SILVER.
The upper part of a vein of lead ore is always richest in silver; the bottom, in lead. Our refiners will assay any lead that will yield ten ounces in the ton of lead and upwards. The usual produce is fourteen ounces: sixteen have been gotten; but acquisitions of that kind within this circuit are extremely uncommon.
SOME years ago, a green lead ore was discovered in the
silver
rake on
Halkin
mountain.
GREEN LEAD-ORE.
Only a small quantity was found, which yielded about thirteen hundred and a quarter from a tun of the ore. It was of a very stubborn quality, and resisted the greatest powers of the blast furnace before it would yield any metal.
THE brown or whitish stoney species of ore called
Caulk,
BROWN, OR CAULK.
produce from five hundred and a quarter to eleven hundred of lead from the ton. The smelters likewise get from what is called
waste,
or the hillocks, which are the refuse of good ores, so mixed with clay, gravel, stone, or calamine, as not to be separated but by fire, from ten to thirteen hundred of lead per ton.
WE have had at different periods mines productive of vast wealth in several parts of this tract.
RICH MINES.
The richest vein was discovered about fifty years ago at
Rowley
's rake, or
Pant y Pwll dwr
on
Halkin
mountain, continued with some interruption into a small inclosure, the property of Sir
George Wynne
of
Leeswood,
and the freehold of Mr.
David Hughes;
which, in less than thirty years, yielded to different proprietors, adventurers, and smelters, above a million of money. The reader will naturally expect to find in these parts a nation of
Craesus
's; but
citò parta,
citò dilabuntur.
It is at this time an undetermined question, whether more wealth has been gotten out of the earth, or more lost in the search after the prizes in this subterraneous lottery.
MUCH of the ore obtained in our country is smelted in the several furnaces belonging to different companies: much also is exported in the form of ore. I wished to be acquainted with the annual quantity smelted from those of the country; but found, by reason of the ores imported from
Scotland
and other parts, that the computation would be of insuperable difficulty. All the lead and ore is exported from the port of
Chester,
a small quantity excepted, consumed by the plumbers and other trades in the adjacent parts. I therefore refer the reader to pages 196, 197, for the number of tuns sent from that port in the years 1771, 1776. By the favor of Mr.
Jken,
collector, I am permitted to say, that, from the year 1758 to
Christmas
1777, the following quantities have been entered in the custom-house, foreign and coast-ways.
Lead.
79533
Tons.
11
c.
2
qrs.
16
lb.
—
Lead ore.
12840
T.
6
c.
—
Litharge.
2767
T.
7
c.
I CANNOT ascertain the quantity of ounces of silver produced from our ores, for the reasons just assigned. I can only say, that the company of a single smelting-house, did obtain in the Year
1754—12160.
Oz.
1755—1276.
Oz.
1756—7341.
Oz.
In 1774—5693.
Oz.
1775—6704.
Oz.
1776—4347.
Oz.
THE reader need not be told, that the former were the years of mineral plenty; and such, which I must say, are seldom known. There are five other smelting houses; but I believe none equalled this in the quality of silver. This precious metal is chiefly bought by the artificers at
Sheffield
and
Birmingham.
CALAMINE is found in great abundance in the veins of limestone and chert, in the same manner as the ores of lead. Where there is plenty of the former, there is little or none of the latter. The calamine is also entirely confined to the eastern side of the country. About a thousand tons of this mineral is annually exported. I have mentioned, in p. 62. how little it was known in
Flintshire
till within these sixty years; and may here add, that we were indebted to
John Barrow,
a native of
Somersetshire,
who being well acquainted with that mineral in his own country, pointed out to us its uses.
CALAMINE assumes various shapes and colors. Green, yellow, red, and black, often has a stony appearance, and often like the lattice work of bones. The richest looks like bees-wax; but that species is not common any more than the curious crystallized specimens.
THE ores of
Zink,
called here
black jack,
are met with in our mines. We have it in a metallic form of a bluish grey color; and again in form of the dark semipellucid ambers.
Cromsted
calls the first ZINCUM
ferro sulphurato mineralisatum;
the other ZINCUM
calciforme cum ferro sulphuratum,
No 1.
a.
THESE were engrossed by patent by a
Bristol
company, and carried there to aid the making of brass.
SPARS of different kinds are found in the limestone veins; particularly the species called
Iceland
crystal,
ICELAND CRYSTAL.
spatum islandicum
This very able writer, in one instance credulous, says, that twelve men were killed at once by one of these
Daemones truculenti,
in the mine of ANNE-BER
.
De anim subter.
491.
, the refracting spar, which represents objects seen through it double.
PETROLEUM, or rock-oil, is found sometimes in crevices of the mines;
FAIRIES BUTTER.
has an agreeable smell, and is esteemed serviceable in rheumatic cases, if rubbed on the parts affected. The miners call it
Ymenyn tylwyth têg,
or the
fairies butter,
belonging to the benign species; perhaps the same with those (in superstitious days called
knockers
) which, by repeated strokes,
KNOCKERS.
were believed to direct the miners to a rich vein. But, in fact, the noises often heard in mines are always discovered to proceed from the dropping of water. These
daemones montani,
as
Agricola
This very able writer, in one instance credulous, says, that twelve men were killed at once by one of these
Daemones truculenti,
in the mine of ANNE-BER
.
De anim subter.
491.
calls them, never infest our mines, except in form of damps of both species, the
suffocating
and the
fire.
The last is very frequent in the coal-pits, but rare in the mines of lead, unless in those parts where the
shale
begins, or stone attendant on coal. The first kills instantaneously, by its
mephitic
vapor, and is a disaster common to neglected vaults, and draw-wells. The other is inflammable, and burns and destroys in a dreadful manner,
FIRE-DAMP.
as the colliers, through negligence, in not setting fire to the vapor before it gets to a head, do often experience. The most tremendous instance was on
February
3d, 1675, in a coal-work at
Mostyn,
which I shall relate from the
Philosophical Transactions
No 136. or Vol. ii. 378.
Lowthorb
's Abridgement. The account was drawn up by Mr.
Roger Mostyn.
; and so conclude the account of our mineral concerns.
The damp had been perceived for some time before,
IN MOSTYN COLLIERY.
resembling fiery blades darting and crossing each other from both sides of the pit. The usual methods were taken to free the pit from this evil. After a cessation of work for three days, the steward thinking to fetch a compass about from the eye of the pit that came from the day, and to bring wind by a secure way along with him, that, if it burst again, it might be done without danger of men's lives, went down, and took two men along with him, which served his turn for this purpose. He was no sooner down, but the rest of the workmen that had wrought there, disdaining to be left behind in such a time of danger, hasted down after them; and one of them, more indiscreet than the rest, went headlong with his candle over the eye of the damp-pit, at which the damp immediately catched, and flew to and fro over all the hollows of the work, with a great wind, and a continual fire; and, as it went, keeping a mighty great roaring noise on all sides.
THE men, at first appearance of it, had most of them fallen upon their faces, and hid themselves as well as they could, in the loose, slack, or small-coal, and under the shelter of posts; yet, nevertheless, the damp returning out of the hollows, and drawing towards the eye of the pit, it came up with incredible force; the wind and fire tore most of their clothes off their backs, and singed what was left, burning their hair, faces, and hands; the blasts falling so sharp on their skin, as if they had been whipt with cords. Some, that had lest shelter, were carried fifteen or sixteen yards from their first station, and beaten against the roof of the coal, and sides of the post, and lay afterwards a good while senseless; so that it was long before they could hear or find one another. As it drew up to the day-pit, it caught one of the men along with it, that was next to the eye; and up it comes, with such a terrible crack, not unlike, but more shrill, than a cannon, that was heard fifteen miles off, with the wind; and such a pillar of smoak, as darkened all the sky over-head for a good while. The brow of the hill above the pit was eighteen yards high, and on it grew trees of fourteen or fifteen yards long; yet the man's body, and other things from the pit, were seen above the tops of the highest trees, at least 100 yards. On this pit stood a horse-engine of substantial timber, and strong iron work; on which lay a trunk, or barrel, for winding the rope up and down, of above 1000 pounds weight; it was then in motion, one bucket going down, and the other coming up full of water. This trunk was fastened to that frame with locks and bolts of iron; yet it was thrown up, and carried a good way from the pit; and pieces of it, though bound with iron-hoops and strong nails, blown into the woods about: so likewise were the two buckets; and the ends of the rope, after the buckets were blown from them, stood a while upright in the air like pikes, and then came leisurely drilling down. The whole frame of the engine was stirred, and moved out of its place; and those mens clothes, caps, and hats, that escaped, were afterwards found shattered to pieces, and thrown amongst the woods a great way from the pit.
FROM
Nannerch,
I continued my journey along the narrow vale, picturesquely ornamented with hanging woods. Leave the church of
Skeiviog
on the right. In this parish was shot, a few years ago,
HOOPOE.
that singular bird, the
Hoopoe,
vol. i. No 90. of
British Zoology.
This species is of the size of a
stare;
easily distinguishable by its large crest; long, slender, incurvated bill; and by having only ten feathers in the tail. I can add to my former account, that the
Arabs
call it the
messenger bird;
not only from the resemblance which the crest bears to the plumes that decorate the caps of
Chaous
or
Turkish
messengers; but also, because the
Mahometans
believe it to have been the bird which (when birds could speak) held a conversation with
Solomon,
and to have been the courier which carried on the epistolary correspondence between that wise monarch and the
Sabaean
queen
Bochart Hitroz.
pars ii. p. 347. Also, Universal antient Hist. iv. 107, notes.
.
AT the junction of the vales of
Nannerch
and
Bodvari,
I ascended to
Caerwys;
CAERWYS.
a town mouldering away with age. It consists of four streets, crossing each other at right angles, answering to the four points of the compass. The name, as
Camden
has long since observed, savors of great antiquity.
Caer,
the fortress and
Gwŷs,
a summon, which shews it had been in early times, the place of judicature; and it certainly had that honor long before it was removed to the county-town of
Flint.
I will not assert that it had been a
Roman
station, notwithstanding I am credibly informed, that in the present century, a number of copper coins were found in a bottom below the town; and there still remains in the parish, a Latin inscription, cut in rude letters, on an unhewn upright stone to this effect: HIC JACIT MULI ERBO . . . . OBIIT. Multitudes of
tumuli
are scattered over the neighborhood; and one very near to it. This plain, probably, had been a field of battle. Whether this inscription referred to any heroine that fell on this place, I will not dare to affirm. It is an unfinished piece,
Hic jacit mulier
BO—and, at a distance, the word
obiit.
CAERWYS
Powel,
360.
, with a neighboring town now lost, called
Tref Edwyn,
and
Rhuddlan,
had been, from very early time, the seats of the judicature for these parts of
Wales.
In 1281, the noblemen of
Tegengl
layed before the archbishop of
Canterbury
(who came down on the Christian design of reconciling the differences between
Edward
I. and
Llewelyn
) the infringement of their liberties in this particular; asserting, that it was the tenor of their privilege to be judged according to the laws of
Wales,
at those three places; and that the best men of the country were taken because they desired to be judged at
Tref Edwyn
by the laws of
Wales
Ibid.
. How far their complaints were remedied does not appear: but when justiciary courts were in after times appointed,
Caerwys
recovered its antient honors. In this town were held the great sessions. It had its town-hall, and its jail; and was the place of execution. It remained the place of judicature till sometime past the middle of the last century, when the courts were removed to
Flint.
IN the year 1241, or the 26th of
Henry
III. that prince granted to the inhabitants of
Tegengl,
a charter
Mostyn
MSS.
, exempting them from the
amobr;
but at the same time, imposes on them an obligation to find twenty-four people, who were to keep the peace of the country: and obliges this town,
Picton, Axton,
and other hamlets, to find three men each, to work three days in the harvest, as they were wont in the days of the two preceding
Welsh
princes. This seems during some temporary advantage which
Henry
had over the
Welsh.
CAERWYS has the most considerable fairs for cattle, sheep and horses, in all the county. They are of great antiquity. The first
John Trevor,
bishop of St.
Asaph,
appears among the subscribers to a charter for a market in 1356; but the markets have now failed entirely, since the increase of
Holywell.
THE earl of
Plymouth
is lord of this manor; and possesses, by purchase of an ancestor, the estate of the
Griffiths,
descended from
Ednowen-Bendew,
one of the fifteen tribes, whose seat is still standing, inhabited by tenants.
BUT what gave a particular glory to the town of
Caerwys,
was the honor it had of being the place of the
Eisteddfod,
or the sessions of the bards and minstrels for many centuries. It was the resort of those of a certain district; as
Aberfraw
in
Anglesea
was of those of that island, and the neighboring county; and
Mathraval
of those of the land of
Powys.
The reason that these places were thus distinguished, was, because the two last were the residence of princes; and
Caerwys,
on account of the royal palace that stood below the town, the residence of
Llewelyn ap Gryffydd.
THESE
Eisteddfods
were the
British Olympics.
Fired at first with generous emulation, our poets crowded into the list, and carried off the prize, contented with the mere honor of victory. At length, when the competitors became numerous, and the country became oppressed with the multitude, new regulations of course took place. The disappointed candidates were no longer suffered to torture the ears of the principality with their wretched compositions. None but bards of merit were suffered to rehearse their pieces; and minstrels of skill, to perform. These went through a long probation: judges were appointed to decide on their respective abilities; and degrees suitable were conferred, and permissions granted for exercising their talents, in the manner that will be related in the following pages. The judges were appointed by commission from our princes; and after the conquest of
Wales,
by the kings of
England,
notwithstanding,
Edward
I. exercised a political cruelty over the generation of bards of his time; yet future princes thought fit to revive an institution so likely to soften the manners of a fierce people. The crown had the power of nominating the judges, who decided not only on the merit, but the subject of the poems; and, like our modern lord chamberlains, were certain of licensing only those which were agreeable to the
English
court.
BEFORE I enter on the account of the succession of
British Eisteddsfods,
I shall just mention the high antiquity of the character that made,
ANTIENT BARDS.
in after times, the principal figure in these meetings. The
Bardi
(the
Beirdds
of the
Britons
) were of great authority among the
Celtic
nations: the
Germans
were animated in battle by verses delivered in a deep and solemn tone
Tacitus
de mor. German, lib. vi. 246.
. among the
Gauls
Strabo,
lib. iv. 302.
Athenaeus,
, they sung the actions of great men; and particularly, celebrated in their hymns, the heroes who fell in fight:
Vos quoque qui fortes animas belloque peremtas
Laudibus in longum vates dimittis in aevum
Plurima fecuri fudistis carmina BARDI.
LUCAN. i.
YOU too, ye bards, whom sacred rapture fire
To chaunt your heroes to your country's lyre,
Who consecrate in your immortal strain,
Brave patriot souls in righteous battle slain;
Securely now the tuneful task renew,
And noblest themes in deathless songs pursue.
ROWE.
IT is highly probable, that the bards and minstrels were under certain regulations during the time of
Druidism;
but we find no proofs of them till long after;
IN TIME OF CAPWALADR:
till the days of
Cadwaladr,
last king of
Britain,
who died at
Rome
about the year 688. Of him it is said, that being at an assembly of this nature, with his nobles, there came a minstrel, and played in a key so displeasing, that he and all his brethren were prohibited, under a severe penalty, from ever playing on it any more; but were ordered to adopt that of
Mwynen Gwynedd,
or the sweet key of Gwynedd
North Wales.
.
I IMAGINE,
OF ARTHUR:
that previous to this, there had been musical regulations in
Britain;
for I find that a tune, called
Gosteg yr Halen,
or the
Prelude of the Salt,
was always played whenever the salt-seller was placed before king
Arthur
's, knights, at his round table
Mr.
Morris
's MSS. of
British
music.
.
AFTER
Cadwaladr,
the next princes who undertook the reform of our minstrelsie, were
Bleddyn ap Cynfyn
and
Gryssydd ap Cynan.
OF GRYFFYDD AP CYNAN
The first was cotemporary with the conqueror; the last with king
Stephen.
These enacted, that no person should follow the
profession
of bard or minstrel, but such only who were admitted by the
Eisteddfod,
which was held once in three years. They were prohibited from invading one another's province: nor were they permitted to degrade themselves by following any
other
occupation. Neither of these were to demand above ten shillings in any article, under pain of losing the whole, besides being suspended from their profession for three years
Leges Wallieae,
35.
.
AFTER the times of the princes, the great men, their descendants, took these people under their care and protection, allowing them the liberty of circuiting their respective territories thrice a year, viz. at
Christmas, Easter,
and
Whitsuntide;
and the whole principality once in three years.
THE bards were in the highest repute. I cannot give a stronger idea of the esteem they were in, than by citing from the
Welsh
laws, the account of their rank in the prince's court, and the various rewards and fees they were entitled to, and the severe penalties that were enacted to preserve their persons from insult. They were supposed to be endowed with powers equal to inspiration. They were the oral historians of all past transactions, public and private. They related the great events of the state; and, like the
scalds
of the northern nations, retained the memory of numberless transactions, which otherwise would have perished in oblivion. They were likewise thoroughly acquainted with the works of the three primary bards,
viz.
MYRDDYN AP MORFRYN, MYRDDYN EMRYS, and TALIESIN BEN BEIRDD. But they had another talent, which probably endeared them more than all the rest to the
Welsh
nobility; that of being most accomplished genealogists, and flattering their vanity, in singing the deeds of an ancestry derived from the most distant period.
THE BARDD TEULU, or COURT BARD, held the eighth place in the prince's court. He possessed his land free. The prince supplied him with a horse and woollen robe, and the princess with linen
Leges Wallicae, 35.
. He sat next to the governor of the palace at the three great festivals; for, at those seasons, the governor was to deliver him his harp
The same, 35, and 16.
On the same festivals, he was also to have the
Disdain
's, or steward of the houshold's garment for his f
e.
WHEN a song is called for, the
Cadeir-fardd,
or the bard who has got the
badge of the chair,
is first to sing a hymn in glory of GOD; after that, another in honor of the prince. When those are over, the
Teuluwr,
or bard of the hall, is to sing some other subject.
IF the princess calls for a song after she has retired from table to her apartment, the
Teuluwr
must sing to her highness in a low voice, least he should disturb the performers in the hall.
John Dafydd Rhys
says, that the subject was to be on death; but I rather follow
Wotton,
who, instead of
angau,
which signifies
death,
prefers the word
amgen,
or a
separate subject
from what was sung in the hall.
WHEN the bard goes with the prince's servants on a plundering expedition, and performs before them his animating compositions, he is to have the finest heifer of the booty; and in case the detachment was drawn up in order of battle, he was to sing at their head, the
praises of the
British
monarchy.
This was to remind them of their antient right to the whole kingdom; for their inroads being almost always on the
English
territories, they thought they did no more than seize on their own.
THE prince bestowed on him an ivory chess-board; others say a harp: and the princess a golden ring. His lodging was to be with the governor of the palace.
WHEN he is required to sing with other bards, by way of distinction, he is to have a double portion.
IF the bard asks any favor of the prince, he must sing one of his compositions: if of a nobleman, three: if of a common person, he must sing till he is so weary as to rest on his elbow, or to fall asleep. This, I fear, shews our bards were a very importuning race, and required a check; yet still they were in high estimation. Their
Gwerth,
or compensation for their life, was rated at cxxvi cows
leges Wallicae, 37.
, and any injury done them, at vi cows and cxx pence.
THE
Merch-Gobr
of his daughter,
MERCH-GOBR.
or marriage fine of his daughter, was cxx pence. Her
cowyll, argyffreu,
or nuptial presents, was thirty shillings; and her portion three pounds
Ibid. 37.
. It is remarkable, that the PENCERDD GWLAD, or chief of the faculty, was entitled to the
merch-gobr,
or
amobr
for the daughters of all the inferiors of the faculty within the district, who payed xxiv pence on their marriage; which not only shews the antiquity, but the great authority of these people.
THE PENCERDD was not among the
Ibid. 68.
officers of the court: but occasionally sat in the tenth place. He also had his land free; was to perform much in the same manner as the court bard, whom he seems to have taken place of, whenever he attended; for, when the
Pencerdd
was present, the former sat only in the twelfth seat. No other was to play without license from him. His death was valued at cxxvi cows; and any injury done him, at vi cows, and cxx pence. Each of the chief musicians was to receive from their lord, the first, a harp; the second, a
crwth;
the third, a pipe; which, on their deaths, were to revert to the lord
Leges Wallicae, 68.
.
THE prince's harp was valued at cxx pence, and that of
Pencerdd
at the same; the key at xxiv pence: a gentleman's harp was estimated at lx pence.
POWEL
191.
says, that
Gryffydd ap Cynan
brought over with him out of
Ireland,
divers cunning musicians, who devised in a manner, all the instrumental music now used. With all respect to our sister kingdom, I must imagine, that if our instruments were not originally
British,
we were copyists from the
Romans,
who, again, took their instruments from the
Greeks.
Methinks I see the model of a harp in fig. 7. tab. lxxvi. of the supplement of
Montfaucon,
volume iii.; of the
crwth
in Doctor BURNY'S Psalter, tab. v. fig. 4. or his
Etruscan
lyre, fig. 10. and of the pipe, in several simple pipes, before it received from us the addition of the horns, from whence it got the title of
pib-gorn,
and the
English
name of
cornet
See figures of the
crwt
and
pib-gorn
in
Archaeologia,
iii. tab. vii.
.
A COMMISSION for holding an
Eisteddfod
at
Caerwys,
in 1568, is still in possession of Sir
Roger Mostyn,
together with the SILVER HARP; which had from time immemorial been in the gift of his ancestors, to bestow on the
chief of the faculty.
This badge of honor is about five or six inches long, and furnished with strings equal to the number of the muses. The commission is the last of the kind which was granted; and is in form following:
BY THE QUENE.
ELIZABETH, by the grace of GOD, of
England, Frannce,
and
Ireland
Quene, defendor of the fayth,
&c.
to our trustie and ryght wel beloved Sr
Richard Bulkley
knight, Sir
Rees Gruffith
knight,
Ellice Price
esquior , Doctor in cyvill lawe, and one of our counsail in our marches of
Wales, William Mostyn, Jevan Lloyd of Yale, J
n Salusbury
of
Ruge, Rees Thomos, Maurice Wynne, Will̄ m Lewis, Peres Mostyn, Owen Jhn ap Hos t Vaughan, John Will̄ a m ap John, John Lewis Owen, Moris Gruffyth, Symound Thelvall, Ellice ap Wm Lloyd, Robt Puleston, Harry Aparry, William Glynne,
and
Rees Hughes,
esquior s, and to every of them, greating.
Wheras it is come to the knowledge of the lorde president and other or said counsail in or marches of
Wales,
that vagraunt and idle psons, naming themselfs mynstrells, rithmors, and barthes, are lately growen into such an intollerable multitude wth -in the principalitee of
Northwales,
that not only gentlemen and others, by theire shameles disorders, are oftentimes disquieted in theire habitacons; but also thexpert mynstrells and mucisions in toune and contry therby much discouraged to travail in thexercise and practize of theire knowledge; and also not a litle hyndred in theire lyvings and pferm• . The reformacon wherof, and the putting of these people in ordr , the said lorde president & counsail have thought verey necessarye, and knowing you to be men both of wysdome and upright dealing, and also of experience and good knowledge in the scyence, have apointed and authorized you to be comissioners for that purpose. And forasmuch as or said counsail of late, travayling in some pte of the said principalitee, had pfect: understanding or credible report, that thaccustomed place for thexecucon of the like comssyon, hath bene hertofore at
Caroyes
in our countie of
Fflynt;
and that
William Mostyn
esquior , and his ancestr
have had the gyfte and bestowing of the sylver harpe apptayning to the chess of that facultie, and that a yeares warning at the least hath bene accustomed to be geaven of thassembly and execucon of the like comissyon. Our said counsail have, therfore, apoynted thexecucon of this commissyon to be at the said towne of
Caroyes,
the
Monday
next aftr the feast of the blessed Trynitee, wt h shall be in the yeare of or Lorde God 1568.
AND therfore we require and comand you, by the aucthoritee of these psents, not only to cause open pclamacons to be made in all ffayors , mr ketts, townes, and other places of assembly wth in our counties of
Anglize, Carnt von, Meyryonneth, Denhigh,
and
Fflynt,
that all and evry pson and psons that entend to maynteigne theire lyvings by name or color of mynstrells, rithmrs, or barthes, wthin the
Talaith
of
Aberfiowe,
comphending the said fyve shires, shal be and appeare before you the said daye and place, to shewe their learnings accordingly: but also that you, xxt•• , xixen , xviiien , xviien , xvien , xven , xiiiien , xiiien , xii• , xin , xen ix, viii, vii, or vi of you whereof youe, Sr
Richard Bulkey,
Sr
Rees Gruffith, Ellice Price,
and
Wm Mostyn,
Esquiot• , or iii•• or ii of you, to be of the nombr to repayre to the said place the daye aforsaid, and calling to you such expert men in the said facultie of the
Welshe
musick, as to you shall be thought convenient to pceade to thexecucon of the pmiss• , and to admytt such and so many as by your wisdomes and knowledges you shall fynde worthy into and undr the degrees heretofore in semblable fort, to use exercise and folowe the
yences and facultes of theire pfessyons in such decent ordr as shall apptaigne to eche of theire degrees, and as yor discrecons and wisdomes shall pseribe unto them, geaving straight monycons and comaundmt in or name and on or behalf to the rest not worthy that they returne to some honest labor and due exercise, such as they be most apte unto for mayntenaunce of their lyvings, upon paine to be taken as sturdy and idle vacaboundes and to be used according to the lawes and statutes pvided in that behalf, letting you wyth or said counsaill look for advertisemt by due certificatt at your handes of yor doings in thexecucon of the said pmiss• . For seeing in any wise that upon the said assembly the peas and good order be observed and kept accordingly, assertayning you that the said
Willm Mostyn
hath pmised to see furnyture and things necessary pvided for that assembly at the place aforsaid.
Geven under or signet at or citie of
Chester
the xxiiith of
October,
the nynth yeare of or raigne.
Signed her Hignes counsaill, in the mr ches of WALES.
In consequence, an
Eisteddfod
was held on the 26th of
May
following: and on this occasion the following persons received their degrees:
Lewis Edward,
were created chief bards of vocal song.
William Llŷn,
were created chief bards of vocal song.
Owen Evan,
alias
Gwynedd,
were created chief bards of vocal song.
Simwnt Fychan,
were created chief bards of vocal song.
William Kynwal,
—primary students of vocal song.
Lewis Menai,
—primary students of vocal song.
Sion Tudur,
—primary students of vocal song.
Huw Llyn,
—primary students of vocal song.
Bedo Havesp,
—primary students of vocal song.
Sion Phylip,
—primary students of vocal song.
Huw Conway,
—primary students of vocal song.
Ieuan Tew,
were created secondary students of vocal song.
Huw Pennant,
were created secondary students of vocal song.
Howel Keiriog,
were created secondary students of vocal song.
Davydd Alaw,
—probationary students of vocal song.
Edward Brwynllys,
—probationary students of vocal song.
Rhys Gelli,
—probationary students of vocal song.
INSTRUMENTAL MUSIC.
Sion ap Rhys Bencerdd,
HARP.
—chief bards and teachers of instrumental song.
William Penllyn,
—chief bards and teachers of instrumental song.
Hwlkin Llwyd,
—chief bards and teachers of instrumental song.
Thomas Anwyl,
HARP.
—chief bards (but not teachers) of instrumental song.
Dd Llwyd ap Sion ap Rhys,
—chief bards (but not teachers) of instrumental song.
Edward ab Evan,
—chief bards (but not teachers) of instrumental song.
Robt. ap Howel Llanvor,
—chief bards (but not teachers) of instrumental song.
Humphrey Go ch,
—chief bards (but not teachers) of instrumental song.
Richard Glyn,
HARP.
—primary students of instrumental song.
Robert Llwyd,
—primary students of instrumental song.
Evan Penllyn,
—primary students of instrumental song.
Lewis Llanver,
—primary students of instrumental song.
Huw Dai,
HARP.
—secondary ditto.
Huw ap Morus,
—secondary ditto.
Siamas Morlas,
—secondary ditto.
Sion Niwbwrch,
—secondary ditto.
Ellis Gruffydd,
—secondary ditto.
Lewis Berain,
HARP.
were created probationary students of instrumental song.
Ieuan ap Meredydd,
were created probationary students of instrumental song.
Gwalchmai ap Davydd,
were created probationary students of instrumental song.
Siamas Eutyn,
CRWTH.
—chief bards and teachers of instrumental song.
Evan Penmon,
—chief bards and teachers of instrumental song.
Robert ap Rhys Gyttyn,
CRWTH.
—chief bards (but not teachers) of instrumental song.
Thomas Môn,
—chief bards (but not teachers) of instrumental song.
Sion Ednyved,
—chief bards (but not teachers) of instrumental song.
Thomas Grythor,
—chief bards (but not teachers) of instrumental song.
Sion Ddu Grythor,
CRWTH.
—primary student of instrumental song.
Robert ab Evan Llwyd,
CRWTH.
secondary students of instrumental song.
Edward Grythor,
secondary students of instrumental song.
Thomas Kegidva,
—secondary students of instrumental song.
Rhys Grythor Hiraethog,
—secondary students of instrumental song.
Thomas Grythor Bâch,
—secondary students of instrumental song.
Davydd ab Howel Grythor,
—secondary students of instrumental song.
William Ednyved,
—secondary students of instrumental song.
Richard Conway,
CRWTH.
—probationary students of instrumental song.
Sion Alaw,
—probationary students of instrumental song.
Robt. Conway,
—probationary students of instrumental song.
Crythor Llwyd Marchedd,
—probationary students of instrumental song.
It must be observed, that players on crwths with three strings, taborers, and pipers, were reckoned among the ignoble performers: they were not allowed to sit down, and had only a penny for their pains.
THE different degrees were comprehended in this list. There were four in the poetical, and five in the musical faculty. The lowest, or more properly what should be called a candidate or probationer, was
Y Dyscybl Yspâs,
or the
lowest disciple,
who was obliged (if a candidate for poetry) to understand the contraction or five species of
Englyns,
and to compose them before a
Pencerdd,
who was to declare upon his conscience, that he was endowed with a true poetical genius. After this he commenced
DYSCYBL DYSCYBLAIDD,
Discipulus disciplinabilis:
here he becomes a graduate, but must understand twelve of our different metres, and produce specimens of each of his own composition, and if in three years time he does not, by his merit, acquire the next degree, he is degraded from this. If he succeeds, he then proceeds to the degree of
DYSCYBL PENCEIRDDIAIDD, or candidate for degree of
Pencerdd,
when he must understand the propriety of expressions, and the different metres, and compose in twenty-one species; and if in three years he does not attain by his own merit to the next degree, he falls back into that of
Dyscybl dyscyblaidd;
otherwise he becomes a
PENBARDD or PENCERDD, chief of the faculty he was candidate in; when it is necessary he should be accomplished in every branch of his art. He then received the badge of the silver-harp; or that of a golden or silver chain, which he wore upon his shoulder. He also was placed with much ceremony on a magnificent chair, part of the
furnyture
mentioned in the patent; was there invested with his degree, and then acquired the honorable name of
Cadeirfardd,
or
Bardd cadeiriawg.
IN instrumental music there were five degrees; which differ nothing from those in the other faculty, except in the two lowest: I. the
Dyscybl yspas heb râdd,
or without a degree, 2.
Dyscybl yspas graddawl,
or graduated; 3.
Dyscybl dyscyblaidd;
4.
Dyscybl penceirddiaidd;
5.
Pencerdd.
These, like the others, were to be attained by their respective merits in the science; but as then qualifications are expressed in technical terms of
British
music, it is past, my skill to give an explanation. None but a
Pencerdd
should presume to become an instructor. The chief of our days, is that uncommon genius, the blind Mr. JOHN PARRY of RHIWABON, who has had the kingdom for his
Cylch clera,
or musical circuit, and remains unrivalled.
OUR PENCERDDS thus qualified, were licensed to sing, or to perform under certain restrictions. By the law of our princes, particular regard was paid to their morals:
They were to be no make-bates, no vagabonds, no ale-house haunters, no drunkards, no brawllers, no whore-hunters, no theeves, nor companions of such, in which things, if they offend, everie man, by the statute, is made an officer, and authorized to arrest and punish them; yea, and to take from them all that they have about them
Powel, 192.
.
THEY were prohibited from uttering any scandalous words in speech or whispers; detraction, mocking, scoffing, inventing lies, or repeating them after others, under pain of fine and imprisonment: nor were they to make a song of any person without his consent; nor to enter any man's house without formal leave first obtained.
EVERY
Penbardd
and
Pencerdd
was allowed to take in disciples for a certain space of time, but not above one at a time. A disciple was not qualified to make another. Each was to be with his teacher during
Lent,
unless prevented by sickness or imprisonment, under pain of losing his degree. He was obliged to shew every composition to his teacher before it was publicly sung. They were not to follow the practice of
cl̄ er y dom,
i. e. dunghill bards and musicians, or any other species of vagabond minstrels. They were enjoined a month before each festival, to settle their routs with their respective teachers, least too many of them should crowd to the same places; only one being allowed to go to a person who paid ten pounds a year rent; and two to such who payed twenty pounds, and so on in proportion to those of higher rank: and every teacher was obliged to keep a copy of these rules, to shew and inculcate to his pupils in time of
Lent,
when they came for their instructions.
No person was to mimic, mock, or scoff at the
awenyddion
on account of their mental absence, or when they had on them the AWEN or
poeticus furor;
from an opinion that no bard, duly authorized, could ever meditate on improper subjects.
To whatsoever house they came in the time of wakes, they must remain there while the feasting lasted; unless they had leave from the master of the house, or were invited by another. If they wandered from house to house, they were to be apprehended as strollers and vagabonds, and to be deprived of their
clera
Or their pay. Sometimes it signifies the act of their perambulation.
, which was forfeited to the use of the church. If they got intoxicated, they forfeited their reward: but if they violated the chastity of wife or maid, they were fined and imprisoned, and lost their
clera
for seven years.
THEIR fees or rewards were regulated.
A dyscybl dyscyblaidd
was entitled to 3
s.
4
d.
for his
cowydd.
A DYSCYBL PENCEIRDDIAIDD, received for the same species of composition 6
s.
9
d.
His teacher, or the
Pencerdd,
had no more; only the master of the house usually presented him with a garment, or some other mark of favor.
THE minstrels received these rewards; a
dyscybl yspas graddawl
had only 1
s.
upon each of the great festivals.
A DYSCYBL DYSCYBLAIDD, at the same seasons 2
s.
and a
dyscybl penceirddiaidd
3
s.
4
d.
A PENCERDD the same, besides a voluntary gratuity. He was also entitled to fees at royal and other weddings; and upon their
cylch clera,
which was permitted only once in three years. But besides these fees, in order to encourage the
clerwyr
to keep up the language and the memory of the exploits and pedigrees of the
Britons,
they were allowed a penny out of every ploughland, and a halfpenny out of every half ploughland of their district.
THE
Penbardd
and
Pencerdd,
in their circuits, frequented only the houses of the gentry; but if he degraded himself by visiting the commonalty, he was only to expect the fee of a common
clerwr,
whose province it was to visit the
plebeian
houses. The following were the persons who were allotted to entertain the vulgar ears.
A PERSON laboring under any infirmity; such as blindness, lameness,
&c.
a
dyscybl yspas,
a
dyscybl dyscyblaidd,
and
dyscybl penceirddiaidd.
The first regulation was founded on humanity.
No public festivity, great feast, or wedding could be duly solemnized without the presence of the bards and minstrels. A glorious emulation arose among them; and prizes were bestowed on the most worthy. In 1176, the lord
Rhys
prince of
South Wales,
made a great feast
Powel, 237.
at
Christmas,
on account of the finishing his new castle at
Aberteifi;
of which he proclamed notice through all
Britain
a year and a day before; great was the resort of strangers, who were nobly entertained; so that none departed unsatisfied. Among deeds of arms, and variety of
spectacles,
RHYS invited all the bards of
Wales,
and provided
chairs
for them, which were placed in his hall, where they fat and disputed, and sang, to shew their skill in their respective faculties, and bestowed great rewards, and rich gifts on the victors. The bards of
North Wales
won the prizes; but the minstrels of
Rhys
's houshold, excelled in their faculty. On this occasion the
Brawdwr Llys,
or
judge of the court,
an officer fifth in rank, declared aloud the victor, and received from the bard, for his fee, a mighty drinking-horn, made of the horn of an ox; a golden ring, and the cushion on which he sat in his chair of dignity
Leges Wellicae, 28.
.
THE bards of those times often accompanied their voices with the harp, as they were wont of old, in the manner described by
Ammianus Marcellinus
Lib. xv. 9.
. There was also another species of musician, of an inferior kind, called
Datceiniad,
who accompanied the musical instruments of others with his song. He was inferior to both bard and minstrel; yet it was requisite he should be possessed of a considerable degree of knowledge in both sciences: he ought to be able to tune the harp and
crwth:
to shew his skill in playing several notes and keys, and to be perfectly conversant in what are called the twenty-four measures of instrumental song; and to be able to sing with judgment and melody. He was likewise to be master of reading justly, and writing correctly. He was not only to understand the twentyfour modes of metrical compositions; but to exhibit specimens of his own, at left in three of them; and if he met with any old song faultily transcribed, he was to rectify it. He was also to carry with him a harp or a
crwth
in a white case. He was further required, not only to be a ready waiter at table, but to be an expert carver of every species of fowl. At the weddings of any of the royal family, his office was to wait on the bride.
ON those occasions, I am reminded of another custom in which the bards were concerned. After their nuptial feast, a
Pencerdd
was constituted CYFF CLER, or
pillar of the clêr,
and seated in a chair surrounded by the other bards standing, who made him the subject of their merry and ludicrous compositions, to raise mirth in the company. He was that day to make no reply; but on the next, he was to divert the hall at the expence of the inferior bards; and was also to compose a poem upon a subject given him suitable to his dignity.
THE most inferior of the musical tribe was sometimes admitted.
DATCEINIAD.
This was the
Datceiniad pen pastwn,
or he that sung to the sound of his club; being ignorant of every other kind of instrument. When he was permitted to be introduced, he was obliged to stand in the middle of the hall, and sing his
cowydd
or
awdl,
beating time, and playing the symphony with his
pastwn
or club; but if there was a professor of music present, his leave must be first obtained before he presumed to entertain the company with this species of melody. Wherever he came he must act as a menial servant to the bard or musician
Several parts of this account are translated from
Cambrobrytannicae Cymraecaeve Linguae Institutiones;
a very rare book, written by Doctor
John Davydd Rhys
of
Llanfaethlu
in
Anglesey,
printed in 1592. He took his doctor's degree at
Sienna;
but was educated at
Oxford.
He returned to his own country, where he practised with great success. At the request of Sir
Edward Stradling,
of St.
Donats,
he composed this book. He tells us, he wrote the first part at Mr.
Morgan Meredydd
's in
Radnorshire;
the rest at a place of his own in
Brecknockshire,
as he says, at the age of seventy, and under the shade of a hawthorn grove.
Vide
his preface.
.
I SHALL conclude this account of the
Eisteddfods
and my Tour, with the description of the poetical genius of the
Welsh
by
Michael Drayton
POLY OLBION, song iv.
, who elegantly and faithfully records the various personages concerned in the entertainments.
''Mongst whom, some there were bards, that in their sacred rage
'Recorded the descents and acts of every age:
'Some with their nimble joints that struck the warbling string,
'In fingering some unskill'd, but us'd to sing
'To others harp; of which you both might find
'Great plenty, and of both excelling in their kind,
'That as the
Stethon
ost obtain'd a victor's praise;
'Had won the silver harp, and worn
Apollo
's bays:
'Whose verses they deduc'd from those first golden times,
'Of sundry sorts of feet, and sundry suits of rhimes.
'In
Englins
some there were, that in their subject strain;
'Some makers that again affect a lostier vein,
'Rehearse their high conceits in
cowyths;
other some
'In
owdells
theirs express, as matter haps to come.
'So varying still their moods, observing yet in all
'Their quantities, their rests, their ceasutes metrical;
'For, to that sacred art they most themselves apply;
'Addicted from their birth to so much poesy,
'That in the mountains, those who scarce have seen a book
'Most skilfully will make, as though from art they took.
FINIS.
ADDITIONS.
PAGE 2
. BASINGWERK ABEY.
IN an out-house is lodged a stone with the following inscription: IESUS MARIA. HERE. LYETH. TH. Y. BODY. OF. GEORGE. PE. TRE. LATE. OF. GREENFIELD. IN. FLINT SHIRE,
Esq
. SONE TO. W. LORD. PETRE BARON. OF. INGLESTON. IN. ESSEX. & MARRIED ANE. E / Y. RELICT. OF. IOHN MOSTOIN.
Esq
. BEING.E / Y DAUGHTER OF. HENRY. FOX.
Esq
. WHO. FOR. E / Y. RO. MANE. CATHOLIQUE. FAITH. &. LOYAL. TY. TO. HIS. TIE / MA. LEFT HIS. COUNTRY. &. SPENDING. HIS. TIME. T / W. GREAT. EDIFICATION. OF. HIS. NEIGHBOVRS. DIED. AT. WEXFORD E / Y 26 DAY OF SEP. AN. DŌ 1647 AGED 34.
THE following order, for putting the chapel over the well into possession of a clergyman of the church of
Rome,
was addresed to Sir
Roger Mostyn
baronet, by the queen of
James
II.
P. 30 HOLYWELL.
Sir ROGER MOSTYN.
IT having pleased the king, by his royall grant, to bestow upon me ye antient chappell adjoining to St.
Winifride
's well; these are to desire you to give present posesion, in my name, of the said chappell, to Mr.
Thomas Roberts,
who will deliver this letter into yr hands. It being also my intention to have the place decently repaired, and put to a good use, I further desire, that you will affoard him your favour and protection, than he may not be disturbed in the performance thereof. You may rest assured, that what you do herein, according to my desire, shall be very kindly remembered by
Your good friend, MARY: REGINA.
May ye 8th, 1687.
WHITEHALL.
ROBERT DAVIES
Esq
of
Llannerch,
by deed, dated
October
10th, 1626, gave the advowson of
Holywell
to JESUS
College Oxford;
that is to say, as often as the vicarage shall become vacant, the said
Robert Davies
and his heirs, shall freely and
charitatis intuitu, et absque aliqua morosa cunctatione,
present a native of
Wales,
rightfully and canonically nominated by the college.
NEAR GADLYS smelting works is a lofty round mount, flat at top.
p. 85. GADLYS.
On this had probably been a casteler, the residence of some of our princes; which gave rise to the name GADLY's
Palatium Castrense.
This may, perhaps, be a better reason than that which I assign; notwithstanding, I believe it to be the spot occupied by
Henry.
THAT
Edward
I.
P. 43. FLINT.
enlarged the castle of
Flint
greatly, and that
Henry
II. was only the founder of a small fortress on that spot, is evident from these complaints of the
Welsh
in 1281:
That the noble and best of the countrie be injured; for that the king builded the castell of
Flynt
upon their ground; and the king commanded the justices to give the men as much and as good ground, or the price: but they are spoiled of their lands, and have neither other lands nor monie.
Powel,
361.
ABOUT a mile above
Flint
is another great mount of the same kind, called
Bryn y cwn.
EULO was reckoned an appertenance to
Montalto
or
Mold.
MS. notes to a copy of
Powel
's history of
Wales,
lent by
Edward Lloyd
Esq
of
Pengwern.
P. 87. EULO.
Was burnt by
Llewelyn
after king
John
had divested him of it.
P. 232. ELLESMERE.
A REMARKABLE circumstance, which put a stop to much cruelty exercised by ordonnance of parlement against the native
Irish,
who served in
England
in the royal army during the civil wars, happened at this place Prince
Rupert,
in one of his marches across this country, halted at
Ellesmere,
and determined, by retaliation, to revenge the deaths of the
Irish
sufferers; thirteen of that kingdom had lately been executed by the parlement army in cool blood. Here the prince ordered the prisoners whom he had in possession, to cast lots for their lives on the drum-head; and the thirteen on whom the fatal destiny fell, to be hanged. The die was cast, and the unfortunate men selected. While preparation was making for their execution, one of them (
Philip Littleton
) who had been park-keeper to
Robert Corbet
Esq
of
Stanwardine,
saw Sir
Vincent Corbet
of
Moreton Corbet
ride by, who was in the prince's army.
Littleton
told a soldier, that he was sure if Sir
Vincent
knew he was there, he would intercede for him. The soldier, with great humanity, ran to the knight, and informed him of the case; who immediately obtained his pardon. The rest were executed, and after this, no more
Irish
were put to death in this kingdom.
Communicated from a MS. by the reverend Mr.
Edwards.
THE
Kynastons
are of
Welsh
descent, derived from
Bleddyn ap Cynvyn
prince of
Powis.
P. 234. OTTLBY.
Fadoc,
son of
Philip ap Gryffydd,
was the first who took the name of
Kynaston.
THEY became masters of
Ottley
or
Ockle,
as it has been some time written, by the marriage of
Humphrey Kynaston
Esq
of
Stokes,
with
Elizabeth,
daughter and heiress of
Richard Ottley
of this place. He was granfaher to Sir
Francis,
mentioned p. 234. SALUSBURY Pedigree.
THIS celebrated book is in the possession of Sir
Watkin Williams Wynn,
who favored me with the loan of it. It contains the pedigrees of all the gentlemen in
North Wales,
and of some adjacent counties, with their arms finely illuminated. It was compiled by
John Salusbury
Esq
of
Erbistock,
who lived about the middle of the last century, and appears to have executed it with great accuracy.
WAS garrisoned for the king in the beginning of the civil wars.
P 258. O
TRY.
The governor fortified it very strongly; and, least the enemy should annoy the place from the tower steeple, pulled it down to the body of the church, part of which he also demolished. It was besieged by general
Mytton,
who placed his cannon against the new gate, which he soon demolished. A bold and daring young man, named
George Cranage,
went with his hatchet, and cut down the chains of the draw-bridge. The parlement forces then entered, and obliged the royalists to retire into the castle.
Cranage
was then persuaded to hang a
buttar (petard)
at the castle gate. After being well animated with sack, he undertook this desperate attempt: crept with the engine from house to house, till he got to that next to the castle; fastened it to the gate, set fire to it, and escaped unhurt. The gate was burst open, and the place taken. Mr.
Edwards
's MSS.
IN
July
1644,
Oswestry
was besieged by the king's forces under colonel
Marrow.
Sir
Thomas Middleton
relieved the place; took 200 common soldiers, 7 carriages, and 100 horse.
Whiteclock, 94.
AFTER the death of the king, this fortress was totally demolished.
FROM
Chirk,
I made an excursion to
Brynkinallt,
about a mile below the village.
P. 270. BRYNKINALLT.
This had been the seat of the
Trevors,
descended from
Ednyved Gam,
a descendant of
Tudor Trevor.
THE house is of brick, built in 1619. In it is a good portrait of Sir
John Trevor,
master of the rolls, in the robes of his office, sitting. He enjoyed that place both in the reign of
James
II. and of
William
III. He was able, dextrous, and enterprizing; and in the reign of the first, had the disgraceful compliment paid to him of being the designed successor in the chancellorship to
Jefferies,
in case it was possible that the last could have been affected with any scruples. King
William
found it necessary to make use of
Trevor,
who was made first lord commissioner of the great seal, and privy counsellor. He had been speaker of the house of commons in each reign. In that of
William,
he is recorded to have been the first who managed a party by buying of votes, for which purpose he was intrusted with money by the court; but in 1694-5, was expelled the house for receiving a bribe of a thousand guineas from the city of
London,
in order to expedite the passing of the
Orphan
bill, which had long stuck in the house; and which he ought to have done from the sole motive of justice and compassion. The commons designed to have proceeded against him by impeachment; but the affair dropt by the prorogation of parkment.
By the marriage of his daughter
Anne,
in 1690, to
Michael Hill
Esq
this place passed into this family; and is now possessed by
Arthur
lord
Dungannon
of the kingdom of
Ireland,
descended from
Arthur Hill
Esq
second son of that match.
IN
February
1645-6, colonel
Watts
governor of the castle, delivered it, furnished with bread and beer, to Sir
Thomas Middleton
's daughter for her father's use; but first raised contributions on the neighborhood.
P. 272. CHIRK CASTLE.
He then marched towards the king, at that time at
Welsh Pool;
but was surprised by the country people, and his waggons taken. Mostyn MSS.
IT is singular that the antient
Britons
should make so light of the crime intended, when one nation of our
Celtic
ancestors, the
Germans,
inflicted the most cruel punishment on the female offenders at lest.
P. 274. PARAGRAPH FOURTH.
Tacitus de Mor. Germ.
EDWARD I.
P. 278. LLANGOLLEN.
by charter to
Roger Mortimer,
dated
July
16th, 1684, grants a market every
Sunday
to his manor of
Llangollen,
and two fairs annually. Both were to continue three days: the first began on the eve of St.
Dunstar;
the other on that of St.
Martin,
in the winter. This charter was witnessed by bishop of
Bath
and
Wells; Henry de Lecy,
earl of
Lincoln; Richard de Burgh,
earl of
U
; Reginald, de Grey; John de Montalto;
and others.
Communicated by
Paul Panton
Esq
I BEG leave to correct a small error respecting the site of this post; it not being between
Offa
's and
Wat
's dikes; but about two hundred yards to the outside of the former.
P. 290 GARTHEN.
CALLED antiently
Wrightesham,
and
Wrightelesham.
P. 291. WREXHAM.
ERRATA.
Page 2.
for
Welch,
read
read Welsh
Page 3. Allen,
read
Alun
Maelwr,
read
Maelor
Page 4. Tegangle,
read
Tegengl
Rudland,
read
Rhuddlan
Mynnydd,
read
Mynydd
Page 11. Eisteddfad,
read
Eisteddfod
Page 14. Llandidno,
read
Llandudno
Llandulas,
read
Llanddulas
Page 19. Llannerchymor,
read
Llannerchy môc
Page 26. Basingwerst,
read
Basingwerk
Page 28. Angared,
read
Angharad
Page 32. Hidgen,
read
Higden
Page 38. Llandeniolen,
read
Llanddeiniolen
Page 44. Malgon,
read
Maelgwn
Page 45. Penmai
,
read
Penmaen
Page 53. Bagilt,
read
Bagillt
Page 60. Silley,
read
Scilly
Page 66.
note,
curea,
read
aurea
Page 74. Bromefield,
read
Bromfield
Page 81. Brunford,
read
Brynffordd
Page 83. Malgwyn,
read
Maelgwn
Enion,
read
Einion
Page 91. Hawardin,
read
Hawarden
Page 107. Septimus,
read
Septimius
Page 116. Gwinedd,
read
Gwynedd
Page 118. Brochmail,
read
Brochwel
Page 123. Gryffyd,
read
Gryffydd
Page 178. Meschina,
read
Meschines
Page 190. Haggarth,
read
Haygarth
Page 209.
note,
Cirreg,
read
Cerrig
Page 221. Amobyr,
read
Amobr
Page 234
line
13. e,
read
the
Page 239. bovarii,
read
boveria
Page 250.
last l.
house,
read
use
Page 319. Comhere,
read
Cwm hir
Page 320. Strathfleur,
read
Y strad fflur
Page 324. Dolgellu,
read
Dolgelleu
Page 370.
line
10. duo,
read
du o
Page 386. Avidus,
read
avidas
Page 401. Brynkinalt,
read
Brynkinallt
Page 413.
dele
Firt
in margin
Page 416. alters,
read
alter
Page 424
paged
244
Page 433. l. 23. loug,
read
long
INDEX.
A
ACTON house Page. 296
Ad Dietam Page. 162
Agricla Bwlch Page. 388
Album monasterium Page. 249
Alfred besieges the Danes in Chester Page. 119
Amobr, what Page. 221
Anglesea, men fined for being concerned with Glyndwr Page. 357
Antiquities, Roman, found near Flint Page. 67
Arenaria saxatilis Page. 19
Assach, whre Page. 364
Assassinatioa in Chester cathedral Page. 181
Assassins, determined resolution of Page. 276
Atiscross hundred, part of Flintshire Page. 6, 50
B
Balderton bridge, Welsh defeated at Page. 105
Bangor, famous seminary Page. 222
Bangor,
monks of, strenuous opposers of the church of Rome Page. 224
curious coffin-lids at ibid.
Basingwerk
castle Page. 22
abby Page. 24
epitaph there on a Petre. Page. 448
Battle of
Chester Page. 118
Coleshill Page. 85
Eulo ibid.
Crogen Page. 268
Bishopric of Chester Page. 172
Bettisfield Page. 219
Bodidin house Page. 379
Bordarii, what Page. 6
Bovium Page. 224
Brâ, Castell Dinas Page. 279
Brass
made by the Britons Page. 62
works of, imported in queen Elizabeth's time Page. 78
British posts Page. 413
Broadlane,
seat of the Glynnes Page. 101
fine portraits there ibid.
Broughton,
near Hawarden Page. 104
in Maelor Page. 216
Brutus the elder, fine bust of Page. 10
Bryn y pys Page. 229
Bryn Yorkin Page. 406
Bwlch y Rhiw Velen Page. 376
Bychton Page. 14
Byssus Jolothus Page. 38
C
Caer Ogyrfan Page. 258
Caergwrle Page. 402
castle Page. 404
Calamine,
the cadmia of the antients Page. 63
its use forgot for many centuries ibid.
Cangi Page. 4
Carreg Carn March Arthur Page. 390
Caryocatactes, a bird Page. 20
Castell Brogyntyn Page. 262
Ceangi Page. 4
Ceiriog brook Page. 267
Charles VII. of France, his alliance with Glyndwr Page. 341
Cheese making, its antiquity Page. 117, 129
Chert Page. 18
Chester, not British Page. 106
station of the Legio XX. victrix. Colonia Devana Page. 107
excavated streets Page. 108
great vaults, lost Page. 109
Roman gate Page. 110
hypocaust Page. 111
other antiquities, altars, &c. Page. 113
Saxon, state of Page. 118
battle of, ibid.
Chester, Danes,
winter there Page. 119
guild mercatory Page. 127
trade in Saxon times Page. 128
in the Norman Page. 132
its Whitson plays Page. 137
besieged Page. 148
Chester
bridge and bridge-gate Page. 150
mills Page. 151, 152
water-works Page. 153
walls ibid.
water-tower Page. 156
east gate Page. 157
castle Page. 158
jail Page. 161
charters Page. 164
praetorium Page. 168
abby Page. 174
chapter-house Page. 177
cathedral Page. 179
St. John's Page. 187
present trade Page. 196
quays Page. 197
canal Page. 199
Chirk
church Page. 268
castle Page. 270
given up by Col. Watts Page. 454
Clwydian hills Page. 411
Coal known to the Britons Page. 17
Coed Eulo, battle there Page. 85
Coleshill Page. 40
battle near Page. 85
Collieries Page. 15
Copper Page. 62
Roman cake of Page. 11, 63
Condolanus, where slain Page. 238
Coracles Page. 225
Crogen castle Page. 270
D
Damps in mines Page. 423
Datceiniad Pen Pastwn Page. 446
David,
prince, surprises Hawarden Page. 92
put to death by Edward I. ibid.
Davits, Edward, the Cneifiwr glâs Page. 375
Deva, Devana Page. 107
Dietam ad, what Page. 162
Dinoth, St. Page. 222
Domitian, his name on a pig of lead Page. 57
E
Earls of Chester,
their antient dignity nearly regal Page. 125
hold a parlement ibid.
Eaton, in Cheshire Page. 202
Eccleston Page. 201
Edgar
lays up his fleet at Chester Page. 123
rowed up the Dee by six petty kings ibid.
Edwin,
earl of Chester Page. 123
owns Flintshire at the conquest Page. 7
Eisteddfod Page. 427
Eleven towns 257
Eliseg, pillar of Page. 373
Ellesmere Page. 230
remarkable event there Page. 450
Emral hall Page. 220
Englefield Page. 7
Erbistock Page. 215
Erddig house Page. 291
Ethelfleda the heroic, her history Page. 120
Eulo
castle Page. 84
battle near, Page. 85
potteries, at Page. 87
an appertenance to Mold Page. 450
Eurgen, St. Page. 83
Exchequer in Chester Page. 162
Explosion, dreadful, at Chester Page. 170
Eyton in Denbighshire Page. 226
Eyton, John op Ellis, his tomb Page. 286
F
Falcon, long flight of one Page. 8
Farn Page. 203
Festa asinaria Page. 143
Fire-brick Page. 87
Fitz-alans, earls of Arundel Page. 252
Fitz-warine, a valiant family Page. 239
Flint
town Page. 41
castle Page. 42
a Roman station ibid.
antiquities found near Page. 50, 67
complaint of the men of Page. 450
Flintshire Page. 2
by whom subdued Page. 5
revenues of the county in the time of Edward III. Page. 49
Fwyall, Sir Howel y, his grant of Chester mills Page. 151
Ffynnon Leinw Page. 412
G
Gadl's Page. 85
Gam David,
an account of Page. 335
when released Page. 362
Galanas, a Welsh mulct Page. 274
Garreg, fine view from, Page. 13
Garthen, the,
a British post Page. 290
a mistake about it rectified Page. 455
Gelli chapel Page. 13
Germanus, St. Page. 380, 389
Gestes of Guarine Page. 244
Gherbod earl of chester Page. 124.
Glass, Roman Page. 68
Glisseg
rocks Page. 301
valley Page. 375
Glyndwr, Owen,
his history Page. 302 to 369
his prison Page. 362
Glynne, chief justice, his portrait and character Page. 101
Gobowen Page. 259
Goch Jolo, Glyndwr's bard Page. 304
Gold
found in Britain Page. 64
a temptation to the Roman invasion ibid.
the Britons early acquainted with its uses Page. 66
Greyhound, singular story of one Page. 47
Gresford Page. 298
Grey, Reginald, lord, oppresses Glyndwr Page. 309
Grosvenour, vast mineral grant to the family Page. 74
Gryffydd ap Madog,
his treason Page. 280
murder of his children by earl Warren Page. 210, 280
Guarine, founder of the Fitzwarrens Page. 239
Gwernhailed Page. 228
Gwerth Page. 274
Gwynedd, Howel, beheaded on Moel y Gaer 83
Gwynedd, Owen
defeats Henry II. at Coleshill 85
his sons defeat the flower of Henry's army ibid.
Gwysaney 393
Gyrys, the first collector of Welsh proverbs Page. 388
H
Halkin,
fine view from Page. 73
church Page. 81
Halston Page. 234
Hanbridge Page. 106
Hanmer Page. 217
Sir Jenkin, slain at the battle of Shrewshury Page. 339
Harp, silver Page. 11
Hartsheath Page. 401
Hawardan castle,
Saxon owner Page. 89
Norman Page. 90
ceded to Llewelyn the great Page. 91
surprised by David ap Gryffydd Page. 92
granted to Montacute earl of Salisbury Page. 93
to Sir John Stanley Page. 94
acquired by chief justice Glynne Page. 95
besieged Page. 96
Hawarden rectory, great Page. 101
Henry VII. protected at Mostyn Page. 9
Hên Ddinas Page. 258
Henry prince of Wales, his early valour, passim in the account of Glyndwr
Hespalun 410
Hilbree isle Page. 19
Holt Page. 204, 211
Holywell Page. 38
castle ibid.
stream, its greatness and utility Page. 39
Hope Page. 406
Hotspur
joins with Glyndwr Page. 334
slaia Page. 339
I
Jefferies,
lord chancellor, his portrait, and history Page. 296
Sir Thomas, his portrait ibid.
Interment, antient mode of Page. 381 to 388
Jolo Goch, a bard of Glyndwr Page. 305
Ithyphallus, an amulet Page. 71
Iron mines, Roman Page. 64
Jungermannia, a moss Page. 37
K
Kilken Page. 411
Kymhorthau, what Page. 366
Kynastons, their descent Page. 451
L
Latimer, or interpreter between the Welsh and English Page. 241
Lead,
antient state of its mines, &c. Page. 51
Roman pigs of Page. 55
Roman regulations in respect to mining Page. 51, 57
silver extracted from it by the Romans Page. 58
lead, how smelted by the Britons ibid.
mines worked by the Saxons ibid.
Leeswood Page. 399
Llanarmon Page. 380
Llandysilio Page. 301
Llangegla Page. 378
Llangollen Page. 278
its bridge Page. 279
Llanverres Page. 389
Lleuci Llwyd, her story Page. 85
Llowarch Hên Page. 376
Llwyd, Gryffydd, chief bard to Glyndwr Page. 310
Llys Edwin Page. 82
Lupus, Hugh,
earl of Chester Page. 124
his hall in Chester castle Page. 159
Lyrewyte Page. 222
M
Maelor Saesneg Page. 215
Maesgarmon Page. 408
Maen achwynfan, an antient cross Page. 12
March, earl of, an attempt to steal away Page. 344
Marcheta mulierum Page. 221
Maserfield Page. 247
Merton Page. 6
grievances of the inhabitants in Edward I. time Page. 14
Middletons of Chirk-castle Page. 271
Mineral property in the time of
Edward I. Page. 75
Henry VI. ibid.
Edward IV. and Henry VII. Page. 77
Elizabeth ibid.
not secured to the subject till the Revolution Page. 80, 81
Mineral tract Page. 416
Mines in Wales, what Page. 213
Mines royal, society for, when founded Page. 78
Mining, Roman, state of Page. 51
Moel Venlli Page. 389
Moel Famma Page. 410
Moel y Gaer, a British post above Northop Page. 83
Mold 390 to Page. 398
Mortimer, Sir Edmund, taken by Glyndwr Page. 329
Moss, sweet, in St. Winefrede's well Page. 37
Mostyn Page. 8
singular portrait at Page. 10
Mysteries and moralities, the old religious Drama Page. 138
Mythras, statue of Page. 116
Myfanwy Vechan, an ode to Page. 281
Mytton, Mr. William, his MSS. Page. 236
N
Names, when first abridged in Wales Page. 12
Nannerel Page. 415
Nant y Bele, romantic view from Page. 288
Noah, the mystery of a curious performance at Chester Page. 140
Northop Page. 83
O
Offa's dike Page. 259
Oldford Page. 203
Ordovices Page. 1, 3
Oswald, St. his history Page. 246
Oswestry Page. 246
church and monastery Page. 248, 251
castle Page. 252
taken in the civil wars of Charles I. Page. 452
old Page. 258
Owl little, the true Athenian Page. 229
Overton Page. 226
Owen, Sir John,
his history Page. 263
epitaph Page. 266
P
Parfew, bishop of St. Asaph Page. 393
Pelagius, a monk of Banger Page. 223
Pen y Llwch, or Hawarden Page. 89
Penbedw Page. 412
Pengwern Page. 278
Perry river Page. 235
Pick axes, antient Page. 53
Pier on the Dee at Wepre Page. 88
Plague at Chester Page. 147, 150
Plâs-têg Page. 401
Poem to
Owen Glyndwr Page. 311
Myfanwy Vechan Page. 281
Porkington Page. 262
Posts, British, on the summits of the hills Page. 83
their uses ibid.
Posts, British Page. 413
Powysland, brief account of Page. 206 to 210
Pulestons Page. 220
Putecaine Page. 6
R
Radman, what Page. 41
Richard II. taken at Flint Page. 45
Robert of Sicily, a play acted at Chester Page. 136
Rod, divining Page. 53
Rood eye at Chester Page. 190
Rafts, the, a British post Page. 300
Royal mine, what Page. 80, 81
S
Sacheverel, Doctor Page. 267
Saltney marsh, granted to the monks of Basingwerk Page. 105
Salushury pedigree-book Page. 451
Sandford, captain, his curious letter Page. 98
Sele, Howel, account of Page. 344
Sellatyn Page. 262
church Page. 266
Seteia estuarium Page. 2
Shartar Gwtta Page. 253
Shocklach Page. 214
Shropshire Page. 229
Sicily, king Robert of, an antient morality Page. 136
Silver, British, known to the Romans Page. 66
Smelting,
British Page. 58
Roman Page. 51-55
Stanlies, their property in Flintshire Page. 82, 87
Stews, public, at Chester Page. 145
Stratalun Page. 390
Stylus found near Flint Page. 71
Sweating sickness at Chester Page. 135
Sycharth, the seat of Owen Glyndwr Page. 306
T
Tecla, St. her well Page. 379
Tegengl Page. 4
Threapwood Page. 217
Tin
early exported by the Phaenicians Page. 60
worked by the Romans Page. 61, 62
Tombs
at Northop Page. 84
at Chirk Page. 269
Rhiwabon Page. 284
Wrexham Page. 292
Gresford Page. 300
Hope Page. 407
Mold Page. 393
Llanarmon Page. 380
Tommen y Rhodwydd Page. 377
Tower, remarkable event at Page. 399
Transmutation of metals, antient opinion of Page. 75
Trevalun 300
Tudor Trevor 238, Page. 278
Tysilio, St. Page. 301
V
Valle Crucis Page. 369
abby ibid.
Victoria Alleluiatica Page. 408
Virrgula divinatoria Page. 53
Vitilia Navigia Page. 225
Vulture, a new species Page. 228
W
Walcheria Page. 257
Warner, lady, her story Page. 0219
Warton, bishop of St. Asaph, vide PARFEW
Wat's dike 21, Page. 259
Wedge, Roman, found in a lead mine Page. 53
Wenefrede, St.
her well Page. 28
life Page. 31
chapel, order relating to Page. 449
Wepre Page. 88
Werburgh, St. her shrine Page. 181
Weregeld Page. 273
Whiff, a species of flounder Page. 244
Whiteford,
Widford Page. 6
its products Page. 15
Whiteminster Page. 249
Whitson plays acted at Chester Page. 137
Whittington Page. 237
castle Page. 244
church Page. 245
Wrexham Page. 291
Woburyhill,
a supposed camp of Glyndwr Page. 351
wooden castle Page. 377
Wynn-stay house Page. 288
Wynn, Sir Watkin Williams, his epitaph Page. 287
Wynn, Sir Richard, his portrait Page. 289
Wynne, rev. doctor, his epitaph Page. 394
Y
Ynyr ap Howel, &c. Page. 379
Yonge, Gryffydd, Glyndwr's chancellor, and embassador to France Page. 342
Younge, Richard, bishop of Bangor Page. 326
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LATELY PUBLISHED,
BRITISH ZOOLOGY, VOL. IV.
Containing the History of the WORMS, CRUSTACEA, and SHELLS; illustrated with Ninety-Four Plates, printed in Quarto and Octavo, to complete the Three First Volumes.
ALSO, FLORA SCOTICA: OR, A SYSTEMATIC ARRANGEMENT, IN THE LINNAEAN METHOD, OF THE NATIVE PLANTS OF SCOTLAND AND THE HEBRIDES. By JOHN LIGHTFOOT, A. M. Chaplain to the
Duchess Dowager
of PORTLAND.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
LONDON: PRINTED FOR THE AUTHORS. M,DCC,LXXVII,
SUPPLEMENTAL PLATES TO THE TOURS in WALES.
THESE Plates, the first efforts of
Moses Griffith
in the art of Etching, will, he flatters himself, be on that account candidly received. What they want in elegance, is made up in fidelity; for they give the most just idea of what they are intended to represent.
HE has this year received his manu-mission, and preferring a quiet life to the hazard of embarking in a stormy and tumultuous world, has lately settled himself in a small retreat under my wing. He offers his pencil to the public, as far as its uses can extend, compatible with his plan of retirement; and, having had the liberty of communicating most of the drawings he has made for me, possesses the means of gratifying, in many respects, the wishes of the curious. His illuminations of the margins of the second Volume of my Tour in
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will be no small ornament to those copies, on which he has, bestowed his labors. I take the liberty of mentioning this to the public, that the merits of a worthy, sober, and ingenious Man, an almost self-taught genius, may receive more ample reward than an individual has in his power to bestow.
DOWNING,
MARCH 10, 1781.
THOMAS PENNANT.
PLATE I. p. 27.
IN the porch of the church of
Whichurch,
near
Denhigh,
is a brass plate, on which are engraven, kneeling, RICHARD MIDDLETON, governor of
Denhigh Castle,
and JANE his wife, daughter of
Hugh Dryhurst,
of
Denhigh.
She died
December
the 3d, 1565, aet. 40: he,
February
the 8th, 1575, aet. 67. Behind him are nine sons: behind her, seven daughters.—Of the sons,
1. RICHARD married
Jane,
daughter and sole heiress of
John ap John,
of
Wepra.
He was likewise owner of
Cadogan-Hall,
near
Wrexbam,
forfeited on the execution of
John Jones,
Esq
for his concern in
Babbington
's conspiracy. It was alledged against him, that he had lent a horse to
Thomas Salusbury,
of
Llewenni,
to promote his escape; and that he had harboured some of the persons concerned in the treason. He seems not to have taken an active part in it, but through friendship to
Salusbury,
had concealed what he had in vain attempted to dissuade him from.
2. SIMON.
3. WILLIAM, the sea officer, and noted Poet.
4. THOMAS, Lord Mayor of
London.
5. HUGH, the great benefactor to our Capital,
6. CHARLES, successor to his father in the government of
Denbigh Castle.
7. ROBERT.
8. FOULK, married to the daughter and heiress of —
Wynne,
of
Bodlithe,
or
Plâs Newydd,
in
Llansilin.
9. PIERCE.
THE daughters were JANE, LUCE, MARGARET, ELYN, ALICE, GRACE, and BARBARA.
[See page 27, where the inscription is given.]
PLATE II. p. 52.
1. A View and Plan of
Ruthen Castle,
taken from a drawing in the
British
Museum, representing its state before the civil wars.
2. Plan of
Castle Corndochon,
p. 73.
PLATE III. p. 61.
1. A Cross in the church-yard of
Derwen,
in
Denbighshire;
not visited in my Tour.
2. The Cross in
Corwen
church-yard.
PLATE IV. p. 87.
1. The tomb of
Gryffydd ap Ynir Vychan,
in
Dolgelleu
Church.
2. The Coffin of
Llewellyn ap Jorwerth,
Prince of
Wales,
at present in
Llanrwst
church. He died in 1240, and was interred in the abby of
Conway.
PLATE V. p. 93.
1. The stone in
Gwytherin
church-yard, p. 48, inscribed
Vinnemcili fili Senemcili.
2. Stone at
Towyn,
which I cannot make out.
3. Another with
Pascent.
i. e.
Pascentius.
4. A fourth in the church-yard of
Llanvyhangle y Tratheu,
in
Meirioneddshire,
inscribed
Hi
est sepulcrum
WLEDERMATIS
Odeleu qui primum edificavit hanc ecclesiam in tempore
EWINI
Regis.
PLATE VI. p. 102.
Castell Prysor,
in
Meirioneddshire.
PLATE VII. p. 140.
View of
Upper
and
Lower Gwedir,
and the great Rock
Carreg y Gwa
b.
PLATE VIII. p. 151.
View of the grand groupe of stones on
Glyder Bach.
PLATE IX, p. 152.
View downwards of the
Trevaen,
from the gap in the
Glyder Bach.
PLATE X.
1. The Altar mentioned in the account of CHESTER, vol. i. p. 14.
2. Another, discovered in digging the foundation of a new row of houses in the
Watergate-Street,
in the
Yatch
field. This beautiful altar was addressed by the family and freemen of a certain person,
Fortunae reduci et Aesculapio.
The emblems of those two deities, and various sacrificial instruments, are engraven on the sides. The inscription is extremely injured.
FINIS.
SCULPTURE IN THE PORCH OF WHICHURCH.
1. RU
THEN CASTLE. 2 CASTELL CORNDORHON.
1. IN
DERWYN CH. YARD 2 IN CORWENT CHY.
IN DOLGELLEN CHURCH. 2 IN LLANRWST CHURCH.
COLUMNS IN MERIONEDDSHIRE.
CASTELL PRYSOR.
GWEDIR.
ON GLYDER BACH.
TREVAEN FROM GLYDER BACH
ALTARS FOUND AT CHESTER.