A DESCRIPTION OF THE ROAD FROM LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL;
WITH EVERY THING WORTH NOTICE IN THE WAY.
BY THE REV. DR. TRUSLER.
London:
SOLD BY SHEPPERSON AND CO. NO. 137, OXFORD-STREET, BYFIELD AND CO. STATIONERS, CRAIG'S COURT, CHARING CROSS, AND FAULDER, BOOKSELLER, BOND-STREET; AND THE BOOKSELLERS OF BATH AND BRISTOL, WHERE MAY BE HAD ALL DR. TRUSLER'S BOOKS.
1797.
A DESCRIPTION OF THE ROAD FROM LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL.
THE Bath road is measured from Hyde Park corner. On the right as we leave London, is Hyde Park, a park belonging to the crown; it is much frequented by those who wish to take the air, either on foot, on horseback, or in carriages. In fine weather, it is generally crowded from two o'clock in the afternoon till five.
The first village that occurs, as soon as we are through the turnpike-gate, is Knightsbridge. On entering this place, opposite the Park wall, stands St. George's Hospital, an endowment for sick and lame. A little beyond this, the road falls off on the left to Chelsea and Fulham-bridge.
About half a mile from the gate, on the right, going out of Knightsbridge, is a new building, standing within the Park wall, built as barracks for the soldiery.
About two miles from town, is the village of Kensington; on the right as you enter it, is one of the King's palaces; the gardens to which are laid out in lawn and shrubbery, and kept in good order, and are open certain hours of the day for people to walk in.
This spot was formerly the seat of the Veres, ancestors of the Earls of Oxford, to whom it was given by William the Conqueror: it afterwards fell into the possession of Lord Chancellor Finch, Earl of Nottingham; and was from him purchased by William III. who built the palace. It has been the temporary residence of successive Kings and Queens of England, from William III. to George II. who died there.
Going out of Kensington on the right, on an eminence stands Camden House, once a noble retreat, now a boarding school for young ladies.
The next house on the right, whose grounds adjoin Camden House; and near the turnpike, is a stately Gothic structure, on the summit of a spacious lawn, called Holland House; belonging to the Earl of Holland, and built by an ancestor, in the reign of Elizabeth.
Near the three mile stone we enter Hammersmith, a long and straggling village, in which lives, a little to the left, near the church, the Margrave of Anspach.
A little beyond the four mile stone is Turnham green; on the entrance to this place the road turns off on the left to Chiswick; a pleasant village, within a mile, on the banks of the Thames: near which is a small house, built in the stile of an Italian villa, by the late Lord Burlington, now the property of the Duke of Devonshire.
On the right, at about half a mile distant, but in view, is a house, called Gunnersbury House, built by Mr. Webb, son-in-law to Inigo Jones; it was the property and residence of the late Princess Amelia, aunt to the present King.
A little beyond this, on the left, stands Kewbridge, crossing the Thames, and leading to Kew, Richmond, &c. in the county of Surrey. The road from London here, as far Colnbrooke, is in the county of Middlesex.
We now enter the old town of Brentford, which, with the new town in continuance, is more than a mile in length. This town is poor, dirty, and straggling; it stands on the banks of the Thames; on the opposite shore of which, are the beautiful and royal gardens of Kew and Richmond, The seven mile stone stands at the corner of a street,
leading into the road to Ealing and Uxbridge.
Brentford is a market town, and the county town, where the members for the county are chosen, on a building erected for the purpose, behind the market house. Despicable as this town appears, it carries on a good trade with the metropolis, by means of the river, in corn, malt, and other commodities.
In 1612, Charles I. beat his enemies at this place; and the Earl of Forth, commander of the Kings forces, was created Earl of Brentford, which title became extinct at his death, in 1651.
Passing the bridge, as we leave the town on the right, is the navigable canal from Uxbridge, &c. that enters the Thames hard by.
A little beyond Brentford on the left, is the colonnade or gates entering the seat of the Duke of Northumberland, called Sion House, from a monastery founded here, in 1414, by Henry V. Edward VI. gave it to his uncle, the Protector, in 1547, who began to build this magnificent structure, the walls of which now remain. After the attainder and execution of this nobleman, it was confiscated, and afterwards given to the Duke of Northumberland, and on his execution, in 1553, it reverted to the Crown: James II. gave it to the Earl of Northumberland and his heirs for ever. The house is a quadrangle, of white stone, seated on the banks of the Thames.
Scarce do we pass this place, but we reach the grounds of an elegant villa, on the right, called Sion Hill, belonging to the Duke of Marlborough.
The road on the left, through a turnpike-gate, leads to Isleworth, Twickenham, and Hampton Court, distance about four or five miles.
Passing the eight mile stone we come to Smallborough
Green turnpike; on the left of which, before we reach it, bounded by a brick-wall, stands, or stood, Kendal House, once the residence of the Dutchess of Kendal, a favourite of George II. and afterwards converted into a public house.
From Smallborough Green we enter Hounslow;
at the further end of which village, the two great western roads fork off; that on the right, to Bath; that on the left, to Exeter and Cornwall. There is a very good road to Bath through Andover, or the Exeter road, not more than one or two miles out of the way, which is fully compensated by avoiding the hills, between Marlborough and Devizes, and the high charges at the different inns, on what is called the Bath road, which is the road most frequented.
Just beyond the 10 mile stone, on the left, are
the new barracks for the soldiers. Hounslow Heath is a dead flat, of great extent, and, having no variety, we have as little to say respecting it.
Twelve miles and a half from London, a rivulet,
called the Crane, crosses the road, and north of it lies the village of Cranford, where there is a park at a little distance, abounding with wood and water, the seat of the Earl of Berkeley.
The road beyond Cranford-bridge, is still a level;
on the right lies the Parish of Harlington, and near it, Dawley; formerly in the possession of the Lords Bolingbroke and Tankerville, now the property of Edmond Stephenson, Esq.
Arlington or Harlington, with Dawley, formerly the seat of the Bennets, or Tankerville family, gave them the title of Baron, in 1663, which title belongs now to the Duke of Grafton, descended by the female line, from the only daughter of John Bennet, Baron Arlington.
Sipson on the right.
Harmondsworth on the right.
We now pass the pretty village of Longford, and the road becomes more pleasant.
As we approach Colnbrooke, we catch occasional glances of Windsor Castle, on the left; about four miles distant.
Just before we reach Colnbrooke, we pass the road on the left, leading to Staines, a merket town, about six miles distant on the Exeter road.
Colnbrook stands on the river Coln, over which there is a small bridge. Part of this town is in Middlesex, but the greater part in Buckinghamshire. It has a market, a charity-school, and a chapel, founded by Edward III. and some good inns. This place is supposed to be the ancient Pontes. On the right of Colnbrook, is a small villa, called Percy Lodge, the seat of the Earl of Tankerville, and was once the residence of Frances, Dutchess of Somerset.
Langley on the right, where is a handsome seat and park, called Langley, belonging to Sir Robert Bateson Hervey, worth going to see, the adjoining land bearing the character of the scenery about the Alps. It was sold to the present possessor by the Duke of Marlborough.
About two miles on the left, is the village of
Datchet, in which was a bridge over the Thames, leading to Windsor Little Park. It has now fallen to decay, and is impassable; and, being a Government bridge, it is uncertain when it will be repaired.
After passing Colnbrook, in our way to Slough, the country on the left is more liverly, and Windsor Castle is frequently in view; also the town and college of Eton, in the valley below it.
Upton about a mile on the left.
Slough is a large village in the road, about a mile and a half from Windsor. It consists of one street, and contains some good inns. Near this, on the left of the Windsor road, leading from this place, lives the celebrated Doctor Herschell. The apparatus which gives motion to his grand telescope, is seen from the high road; his establishment is at the expence of the King.
Windsor Castle has been a royal residence, with some interruptions, from the conquest to the present time. William I. was the first who built a palace here; Henry I. fortified it, and Edward III. enlarged it. Eton College was founded by Henry VI. the chapel is a stately Gothic structure, and may be seen from the road.
A little beyond Slough, on the right, near the road, is the temporary residence of the Earl of Chesterfield. Hence a road leads to Stoke, a village formerly called Stoke-Pogies, from its being the inheritance of the Lords of Pogies, from whom it passed to the family of Hastings. From this family it became the property of Lady Cobham, and was purchased from her by Mr. Penn, of Pennsylvania, and is now in the hands of his successor. In Stoke church-yard is interred, the celebrated Poet, Gray.
Salt Hill has little more to be noticed than one or two good inns. To this place the Eton scholars parade once in two years, to distribute salt, and collect money of travellers, according to an ancient custom.
On the right is the village of Farnham Royal, held by its present possessor on condition of presenting the King, on his coronation-day, with a right hand glove, and supporting his right arm whilst he holds the sceptre. When the ancestors of the present Earl of Shrewsbury exchanged this place with Henry VIII. they reserved this privilege.
Huntercomb on the left. On the right Burnham, a village noted for an Augustine monastery, founded in 1265 by Richard, King of the Romans; close to this, in view of the Bath road, is a house of Lady Ravensworth.
A house on the left belonging to Mr. Ayres.
Hitcham on the right.
As we approach Maidenhead-bridge the country
becomes more picturesque, and we see, on the right, the woody hills of Taploe, belonging to the Earl of Inchiquin, where many genteel people reside.
On the summit of the hill, between the village of Taploe and the Thames, is the seat of the Earl of Inchiquin, called Cliefden House. It was built by Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, in Charles I'st reign, purchased by the first Earl of Orkney, and, by marriage, is now in possession of the Earl of Inchiquin. Frederic Prince of Wales, father of the present King, resided here in the summer.
Adjoining Cliefden is Hedsor Lodge, the seat of Lord Boston, standing on an eminence; below which, in the valley, is the seat of Sir George Yonge, a house lately built.
At Maidenhead-bridge, we enter Berkshire, from
Bucks. At the foot of the bridge, on each side, is a noted inn, and some gentlemens' houses on the Berkshire side, one lately built by Sir William Herne. The bridge is a handsome stone structure, (about 15 years old,) built from a design of Sir R. Taylor. From hence the beautiful scenery of Cliefden, on the right, and Windsor Castle and the forests on the left, present picturesque landscapes.
Maidenhead is a town of some consequence, its borough was founded by Edward III. and incorporated by James II. The town stands in the parish of Bray, to the left; and that of Cookham, to the right.
Adjoining Maidenhead, on the south, is the seat of P. Pouney, Esq. an old house, with a new park.
From Maidenhead, a hollow way leads to the summit of a hill; from whence to the north, the three villas of Cliefden, Taploe, and Hedsor Lodge, appear embosomed in wood.
At a house on the road, called the Folly, the road to Henley and Oxford branches off; to Henley 12 miles, to Oxford 30.
At the 28 mile stone we enter the race ground, adjoining Maidenhead Thicket. On the right, near the edge of the common, is a house, the residence of the late Charles Ambler, Esq. Solicitor General to the Queen. Towards the south are two handsome houses, one belonging to Miss Lowndes, and the smaller to a Mr. Lee.
Here a road branches to the west, leading to Hall Place, the seat of Sir William Este, Baronet, about a mile distant. It has a beautiful park, but small. The eye ranging over the race-ground, towards the east, may discover the seats of John Grant, Esq. and Mr. Sayer.
From a rising ground, on the further side of the
heath, we behold a fine wooded country, interspersed with farms, cottages, and here and there an elegant house, the road running along hills and dales for several miles. On the left, between the 29th and 30th mile stone, is the village of Shottesbrook, where are the remains of a monastery of Benedictines, now converted into a farm-house. In the church-yard here, lies the learned Henry Dodwell, who lived in this parish. At Lawrence Waltham, near this place is a field called Weycork, where stood a considerable Roman fort.
Near Shottesbrook is a stately mansion, in a pleasant
park, belonging to Arthur Vansittart, Esq.
Beyond this stone is the house of Mrs. Phillips,
commanding extensive views; and nearly adjoining, a house with wings, belonging to Mr. Ximenes. Opposite to this, near the road, on a sloping lawn, is the seat of John Lee Parrot, Esq. on the east and south of this, is a woody valley.
Hare Hatch is just beyond the 32 mile stone, a
small straggling village, with some good houses; particularly that of Mr. Young on the right, and Mr. Girdler towards the left. Here we leave the wood-land, and dip into an open cultivated country. About a mile hence, on a rising country,
on the left, stands the village of Ruscombe; close to which is an elegant house, the seat of Lord Chief
Baron Eyre; and a little beyond this we reach Twyford.
From Twyford there is a road a mile and a half to Wargrave, a pleasant town, situated on the banks of the Thames, where the late Earl of Barrymore resided, and had an elegant theatre for his own amusement. Twyford was formerly a market town. Queen Emma gave it to the Bishop of Winchester; it was annexed to this see, till Bishop Poynet gave it to Edward VI. who granted it to Henry Neville. Queen Mary took it from him, and gave it to Bishop White, Poynet's successor; but Queen Elizabeth restored it to Neville, and with his posterity it has continued.
Twyford is a small town, about five miles east of Reading, situated near the conflux of the Thames and the Loddon.
Beyond Twyford the road runs through a number of rich meadows, watered by numerous streams from the Loddon, which empties itself into the Thames, a little below the town, on the north. Further on, the road continues on a level for some distance; then ascending, runs on an unequal ridge, through an enclosed, woody country, to the 37th mile stone: it then descends towards Reading, which we see before us in the west, and Cavesham Park on the right, beyond the Thames.
Sunning one mile on the right, and the house of Mr. Rich.
On the left is the road to London, through the
forest and Egham.
Caversham Park two miles north of Reading,
near the road from Thame to Henley, is the seat of Mr. Marsac. The house was built by the Earl of Cadogan, in the reign of George I. Lord Cadogan was created Baron Reading, in 1715; and afterwards Viscount Caversham, for signalizing himself under the Duke of Marlborough, in suppressing the Rebellion of 1715.
About two miles on his side Reading, a road, on the left, leads to White Knights, lately the seat of Sir Henry Inglefield, now Mr. Neville's. It is a stately building, in a pleasant park. This place was one of the first examples of the
Ferme Ornée.
On the left, a little beyond this, one mile from Reading, is Early Court, the residence of J. Bagnal, Esq..
A new road through Crambourne Chace, Windsor forest, 18 miles in length, has not long since been made, by permission, through the pleasant villages of Wingfield, Warfield, and Binfield, and from the number of elegant seats on this road, and the beautiful scenery about it, it is one of the most delightful roads in the kingdom.
Reading, 39 miles from London, is seated on an easy declivity, on the south-shore of the Thames. The streets are spacious, and well-paved, and contain some good houses. The river Kennet runs through the town in two separate streams, and falls into the Thames, a mile below it; barges come up to the town by the river. It is the county town, is governed by a Mayor, 12 Aldermen, and 12 Burgesses, and sends two members to Parliament. It has three parish churches, and is said to have been a borough soon after the Conquest. It was anciently in possession of the Danes, who surrendered it to the Saxons in 827.
A magnificent abbey was founded here by Henry I. about 1124: Henry I. and his Queen were buried here. The abbey is destroyed, but the Gatehouse is still standing, and a venerable ruin it is. Here are two or three stage coaches that pass and repass daily between this town and London, and one that goes the forest road. There is also a coach that goes three times a week from this to Oxford, 40 miles, and returns the alternate days.
Reading stood a siege in the civil-war, and made a gallant defence in favour of the King. It had once a woollen manufactory, but its trade consists now chiefly of malt, meal, corn, timber, and sailcloth. Manufactories of silk and lawn have lately been here established, and meet with encouragement. Very little of the town is seen in travelling to Bath, the road passing only through one end of it.
In the Philosophical Transactions we are told, that a stratum, or bed of oyster-shells, of 5 or 6 acres in extent, was discovered on Catsgrove Hill, near this town, a circumstance worthy the attention of the natural historian.
A little beyond the 40 mile stone, on the left, is
a neat house of Miss Thompson's.
From a rising ground at the west end of Reading,
the road runs along a ridge for two miles, yielding extensive prospects to the south. Here, on a hill to the north, is a house embossomed in wood, the seat of Edward Bower, Esq. and on the opposite side of the road, on the right, near the 42 mile stone, is the residence of J. Belgrave, Esq. It is a handsome building, with wings, seated in a pleasant park. The road on the north, is bounded with wood, and the river Kennet glides along the vale
on the south. From this ridge, passing Calcot Green, we descend and approach Theal, which is a neat village, skirted by the fertile meadows, and watered by the Kennet; beyond which a chain of woody hills terminates the prospect.
About a mile on the right, as we leave Theal, is
Englefield House, the seat of Richard Benyon, Esq. It originally gave name to a very ancient family,
viz.
Sir Henry Englefield. It was built by one of the Paulets, Marquis of Winchester; but reduced and modernized by its late owner, Paulet
Wright, Esq. a lineal descendant of that noble family.
In the meadows, north of the Kennet, is a square entrenchment, said to have been thrown up when Earl Ethelwolf routed the Danes here, in 871.
Ufton on the left, in which is Ufton Court, the seat of Mr. Perkins.
Road to Beenham on the right; Padworth on the left.
Beenham on the right.
Woolhampton, through which the road passes from Theal, over a flat, skirted by meadows on the south, is a neat village, below the south side of the ridge, forming the north side of the vale, leading to Newbury.
Aldermason on the left; near which is the seat of the representative of the third Lord Stawell.
Three miles east of this place, once stood Silchester, a Roman city of great note, called Vindomium, which covered 80 acres of ground. It was built by Constantine, in 337: there are now no vestiges left but the walls and gates of the town, which may be considered as the most perfect remains of Roman greatness in this island. On the north-east side are the traces of an amphitheatre, now converted into a straw-yard. Many Roman ways centered near this place, which stands in the county of Hants.
As we leave Woolhampton, the road rises to the seat of Mrs. Crewe, standing on a rising ground, about half a mile on the right.
Midgham on the right; near which is a house
belonging to Mr. Poyntz. Before we reach the 51 mile stone, there is a road to the right and left; the left leads to Brampton, the right to Midgham.
Beyond Woolhampton, a large tract of beautiful
meadows spreads the valley on the left; and a chain of woody hills bounds the prospect on the right. As we get on, the road rises, and the grounds are more inclosed as we approach Thatcham.
Coldthorp on the left.
Thatcham, a small, neat town, of one street, Sir
Arthur Crofts is Lord of the manor; whose seat is
Dunsted Park, which we see on the right, before we enter the town; it is a very stately mansion.
On the left, on the south side of the valley, the the seat of Mr. Mount stands conspicuously.
From Thatcham the road runs along, up and down hill, till within a mile of Newbury; here it is more level and enclosed, and the country on both right and left, consists of woody hills, interspersed with farm-houses; the river Kennet on the left.
Near Newbury on the right, is Shaw, the seat of
Sir Joseph Andrews. It is a very ancient mansion,
much enveloped in wood. Here Sir George Lisle was posted at the second of battle of Newbury, in 1644. It was formerly the property of the Dolemans.
Newbury is a large populous town, 56 miles distant from London, situated in a plain, watered by the Kennet. It rose out of the ruins of Speen, an old town, called Spine, or Speen; the remains of which now join Newbury. Hence the new town was called New Borough, or Newbury. Part of this place is called Spinham Land.
The streets are spacious, and well paved; and the market-house is a handsome building: like Reading, this cannot be seen as we pass it, for the road touches it only at one end. It is a vicarage, in the gift of the Crown; and governed by a Mayor, High Steward, and 8 Burgesses; but sends no members to Parliament. There are stage coaches from this place to London, &c.
Newbury was once an ancient clothing town, but this business is now lost, in some measure, by the Kennet having been made navigable here, and carrying on a trade more to the eastward. Here lived the famous Jack of Newbury, the greatest clothier that ever existed, having employed 100 looms, in his own house, in the reign of Henry VIII. He marched to the battle of Flodden Field, at the head of 100 of his own men, cloathed and maintained by himself.
Newbury is remarkable for two battles in the Civil War, between the King and his Parliament, his Majesty commanding both in person: the first was fought at the barrows, on the wash, two miles south-east of the town. In this battle, Sept. 18, 1643, fell, of the King's party, the Earls of Sunderland and Carnarvon, and Lord Viscount Falkland. The second battle was fought the year following, Sunday morning, October 27, 1644, by day-break, at Shaw.
Lord Portchester has an elegant and noble seat at High Clere Park, in Hampshire, five miles south from Newbury. The house stands by the side of a very high hill, a distinguished object, and conspicuous landmark.
From Newbury we proceed to Speenham Land,
where are one or two very good inns. Speen was the ancient Spinae of the Romans, mentioned by Antoninus. It is situated on the Kennet, a little more than a mile west of Newbury, on the north road.
Opposite Speen, in a valley on the right, is Donnington Grove, the seat of Wm. Brummell, Esq. It is a handsome building, partly Gothic, though lately built by J. Petit Andrews; by whom it was sold to Mr. Brummel, and may be seen from the road. On the hill to the north of it, are the venerable, ruined towers of Donnington Castle, rearing its head above a wood of oaks. The Castle was a post of great consequence in the Civil War, and stood a siege of three weeks against the rebel army. This Castle was also the residence of the poet Sir Geoffery Chaucer. Alice, daughter of Sir Thomas Chaucer, son to the Poet, married William de la Pole, Duke of Suffolk. On his attainder it came to the Crown; and was afterwards, by grant of Henry VII. given to Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk. Under James I. it belonged to the Packers, whose heiress married Dr. Hartley, ancestor to Mr. Hartley, its present possessor.
On the left is Benham Place, the seat of Lord Craven; the Kennet runs through the park in the vale.
The road on the left leads to Benham and Hampstead Park, another seat of Lord Craven.
The house, called the Half-way-house, between Newbury and Hungerford. Hoe Benham on the right. Hence the road winds along the bottom of a pleasant valley, rich and fertile.
The road on the right leads to Elcot; that on the left to Walcot.
Just before we reach the 62 mile stone, on the left, stands Barton Court, the seat of Charles Dundas, Esq. by which we pass to the village of Kintbury, built on the side of a hill. At this stone the road on the right, leads to Chilton Lodge, the seat of Wm. Moreland, Esq. about a mile and a half from the Bath road. It may be seen before we reach Hungerford. This estate lies partly in Berkshire, and partly in Wilts; and the boundary of these counties divides the park.
Between these two mile stones, on the left, is Hungerford Park, the seat of Mr. Dolbiac.
Sixty-four miles and half from London we approach Hungerford, by a small bridge over the river Kennet. It is a market town, consisting of two parallel streets. In the church lies interred Robert de Hungerford, the first of that family in this county; whose nephew, Sir Thomas, was the first member of the House of Commons, 51st of Edward III.
The Constable, who is Lord of the Manor, is annually chosen, and holds it of the Crown; they shew a horn here, holding about 2 quarts, which, by an inscription on it, appears to have been given by John of Gaunt; who procured a grant for the royal fishery in the Kennet, remarkable for its trout, its eels, and its cray-fish.
A little beyond Hungerford we enter Wiltshire.
Before we reach the 66 mile stone, there is a road, on the right, to Chilton Foliat, and a little beyond the next stone,
A road on the right leads through a noble avenue,
near two miles in length, to Littlecot Park, the seat of Mrs. Popham, about three miles from the Bath road; where a curious, large pavement was discovered in 1730, two feet under ground, which seemed to have been the floor of a temple, being 41 feet by 33.
Littlecot Park is in the vicarage of Ramsbury, where they pride themselves in fine strong-beer. It is now a small village, but was once the see of the Bishops, whose diocese was this county; but by the union of this see with Sherborne, by Herman, the eighth Bishop, it was removed to Salisbury.
Froxfield, a long, scattered village, on the road, about 2 miles from Hungerford. Here is a noble alms-house, endowed by Sarah, Dutchess of Somerset, in 1694, for 40 poor widows. It is a quadrangle, with a chapel in the centre; they have each about £ 16 a year, with cloaths and fire.
Ramsbury, and Ramsbury Manor, the seat of Lady Jones, is but a little distant from the road here, on the right; as is Great Bedwin on the left.
A road leads from near this stone, on the left, to Tottenham Park, and Severnake Forest, which joins. Between the mile-stones 71 and 72, the road enters this forest; and continues till we
pass the 73 mile stone; a delightful ride, we have then a mile to Margaret Street, and a mile more carries us through Marlborough, down a very steep chalk hill, from the top of which we have a fine view of the town.
Tottenham Park and the Forest, is the property and seat of the Earl of Aylesbury. It belonged, formerly, to the Seymour family; but fell to Lord Bruce, by the marriage of Elizabeth Seymour, grand-daughter of William, Duke of Somerset, with the Earl of Aylesbury, his grand-uncle. The forest with the park, is 12 miles round; and abundantly stocked with deer.
At his distance from the capital, stands the town
of Marlborough, on the spot where antiquarians place the Cunetio of Antoninus. John, afterwards King of England, had here a castle, which, on his revolt from his brother Richard, was taken by storm; and in this castle, a Parliament was held in the reign of Henry III.
Marlborough was a Roman station; and the scite of the old Castrum was, by the Earl of Hertford, converted into a house, and now into an elegant inn, at the west end of the town: the Keep is used as a mount, for a summer house. The town consists chiefly of one broad street. The shops, on both sides, are supported in front by pillars, forming piazzas. It has two parish churches; and is governed by a Mayor, two Bailiffs, and 24 Burgesses; but has no trade. It originally gave title to James Ley, Lord High Treasurer, under Charles I. but becoming extinct in that family, King William, in 1689, made Lord John Churchill, Earl of Marlborough; and Queen Anne afterwards, created him Marquis of Blandford, and Duke of Marlborough.
Proceeding from Marlborough, and descending
a hill, a short distance from the town, a great number of large, grey, scattered stones, are seen upon the down, on the right; these are vulgarly called
the grey wethers;
they are a species of granite; and lie on the surface of the ground in great numbers, and of all dimensions. They are loose, detached from any rock, and, as Dr. Stukeley thinks, have lain there ever since the creation; being solid parts thrown out to the surface of the fluid globe, when its rotation was first impressed.
Clatford Mill on the road side, and Fyfield on the left; and Lockeridge, where the Duke of Marlborough has a house.
West Overton on the left, on the river Kennet, which runs along the valley, on the road side. Before we reach the 79th mile-stone, the road rises, and enters the Downs.
East Kennet on the left.
West Kennet the road passes through; a small village: not far above, the river Kennet has its source, which, as we have noticed, is made navigable, and running to Hungerford and Newbury, becomes a large stream; and, passing by Reading, empties itself into the Thames, just below the town. This river is famous for cray-fish.
Proceeding on to the 81 mile-stone, we pass a small hill, or high tumulus, a barrow higher than general, called Silbury Hill, the largest of this kind in England. It is of a conical form, 170 feet high, 105 feet diameter at the top, and more than 500 feet at its base; having a trench round it, from which this tumulus was thrown up. This hill has been dug into, and a human skeleton was found, bedded in chalk, which crumbled to pieces on touching; near it lay an old horse-bit, deer's horns, and an iron knife, with a bone handle.
At Abury, about a mile from this hill, on the right of the road, is the remains of a magnificent Druidical temple. A village has been built within its circle, and out of its stones; the gardens and orchards, &c. have rather disfigured and concealed the great original design.
The whole is surrounded with an immense circular rampart, or terrace, 60 feet broad; and a ditch within of the same breadth; the diameter is 1400 feet; the circumference 4,800 feet; and the area inclosed 22 acres; through the centre of which runs the high road from Marlborough to Bath.
The first circle of stones within this area, is 13,000 feet diameter, and consists of 100 stones from 15 to 17 feet square; reduced, in 1722, to 40; of which, only 17 were standing, and about 43 feet asunder. There were other circles of stones, like those of Stonehenge, at present there are only a few stones standing.
Passing the 81 mile-stone we reach Beckhampton,
a scattered village, where the two Bath roads meet; that on the left through Devizes; that on the right through Calne and Chippenham. We will pursue this last road, and return to the other afterwards.
Sandy Lane Road, which is the way to Chippenham, was the old Bath road, and turned off at Shepherd's Shore, beyond the 84 mile stone; but a new road is now made through Calne to Chippenham, and this turns off at Beckhampton. There is an inn in the angle.
Those who wish to see Bowood, the noble seat of the Marquis of Landsdown, and Spy Park, the seat of Sir Edward Bayntun, should travel this road.
Passing the ridge, on which the road winds, we descend into a flat, cultivated country, leaving White Horse Hill on the left.
White Horse Hill takes its name from the figure of a horse hollowed out in the chalk, on that side next the road. It is so large as to be seen at a great distance; and was cut in memory of the victory, obtained by Alfred, over the Danes, near Eddington, in the year 878. The figure is 54 feet from the toe to the chest, 100 feet from the toe to the point of the ear, and 100 feet from ear to tail. This battle was fought near the village of Eddington, where the Danish army was encamped.
Passing Cherhill, which lies close on the right side of the road, and where we quit the Downs, at the 85 mile stone, a road leads to Compton House, the seat of J. W. Henneage, Esq. about a mile and a half north-east of Calne.
From the village of Cherhill, we pass over Cummerford
Common; and, at the 86 mile-stone, on the left, stands Blacklands, the seat of Mr. Maundrell; and, before we reach the 87 mile-stone, we cross a stream at the village of Cummerford, on which there are several cloth and corn mills.
Another half mile brings us to Calne, a small
neat town, situated on a stony hill; with a handsome church, built of freestone. This town is well supplied with water from Cherhill, and also from a stream at Calston, on the left, where several streams may be seen, beautifully gushing from the side of the hill, and forming one stream, sufficient to work a corn-mill below.
At the entrance of Calne, (by order of the Marquis of Lansdown,) the old houses have been pulled down, and small neat houses, for the poor, erected in their stead. It is a town of great antiquity, and has sent members to parliament since the 26th of Edward I.
Here stood a palace of the Saxon Kings; and, in the controversy between the Monks and the Priests, respecting the celibacy of the clergy, a grand council was held here, in 977; and, during the debate, the floor of the chamber gave way, and many were killed; Dunstan, who presided, and who favoured the Monks, escaped unhurt, which they conceived as a miracle that confirmed the Monkish Law.
Calne is a market town, and contains near 3000 inhabitants, and considerable manufactories of cloth, serges, &c.
About a quarter of a mile from Calne, on the right, is seen the principal entrance to Bowood, from the London side. Bowood Park was once a royal one, and part of the jointure of Catherine Parr, widow of Henry VIII. James I. if said to have hunted here; at which time all the country, on the left of the road, from Calne to Chippenham, was a continued forest; afterwards divided, by grant, between the ancestors of Lord Audley and Mr. Carey, an ancient Roman Catholic family, in Devonshire; which last has lately been purchased by Mr. Montague, of Lackham; about 4 miles distant.
Bowood was disparked in the time of Oliver Cromwell, and granted, for ever, to Sir Orlando Bridgman, a favourite of Charles II. Sir Orlando dying insolvent, the late Earl of Shelburne bought it of his creditors. To a house of 80 feet in front, the late Lord added offices of 300 feet in front, and fronted and enclosed these offices with a colonnade, taken from a part of Dioclesians palace, at Spalatro, in Dalmatia; the seats in the garden were chiefly taken from the Herculaneum. Within the park is a fine menagerie of wild beasts.
On the left of the road is Pin Hills, formerly a gentleman's seat, now a farm, belonging to Bowood; and Bromhill, a plantation of Lord Lansdown, on the right.
On the right, Studley Hill, the residence of Mr. Brown Angel, a gentleman farmer.
Red Hill on the left; the white gate leads to
where Studley House stood, the residence of the family of the Hungerfords.
About a quarter of a mile further, we pass Studley, on the right, which was the seat of a Roman Colony, now occupied by some very poor cottages.
One mile from this place stands Spy Park, the seat of Sir Edward Bayntun; separated from the enclosures of Bowood by the old Bath road, through Sandy Lane, 90 miles from London. Adjoining Spy Park is Rowden House, the seat of E. Dickenson, Esq.
Continuing the Bath road, between Pin hills and Bromhill, we descend into a valley.
Passing the 90 mile stone, we leave the entrance to Bowood from Bath, on the left; and, descending Derry Hill, we proceed to Chippenham.
The Swan Inn.
On the left Pewsham Forest; and a little to the
right of the road, stood Studley Abbey, formerly a monastery of Cistercian Monks, now a farmhouse; the property of Sir Edward Bayntun, who removed the gate-way, which now forms the entrance to Spy Park from Bath.
Chippenham, situated on the river Avon, is a
large market town, 93 miles from London. It was the seat of several of the Saxon Kings, and bequeathed by Alfred to one of his daughters. The Danes fled twice here from Alfred, but gave it up in 879. It is governed by a Bailiff, and 12 Burgesses, chartered by Queen Mary. The town is divided by the Avon, over which is a low bridge, of 16 arches. Here are some few manufactories of woolen cloth.
Leaving Chippenham, we travel through a pleasant country; but, before we reach the 95 milestone, we ascend a hill, and the road winds along its northern side; beyond this we rise again, and reach Corsham.
The Ivy House.
Road on the left to Easton.
Minety on the right, where a road crosses the Bath road.
Corsham Park and House, a stately stone mansion, the seat of Paul Methuen, Esq.. Here are displayed that well-known, capital collection of pictures of the late Rt. Hon. Sir Paul Methuen, Knight of the Bath. This place, as well as the adjoining town, which is on the further side of the park, and through which the old Bath road, through Sandy Lane, runs, is of great antiquity; it used to be the dower of the Queens of England.
Corsham is a small near town, standing on a flat. Ethelred, the Saxon King, had a palace here; and it was the seat of several of the Earls of Cornwall. Earl Edmund obtained a charter for a market; and Mr. Methuen, Lord of the Manor, has built a neat market-house, and tried to restore it.
Brickers and Pickwick on the left; Hartham
Park on the right; to which a road branches off, a little beyond the 97 mile-stone: the house is conspicuously built, beyond a valley, about half a mile from the road, and is the seat of Lady James.
A little before we reach the 97 mile-stone, the turnpike divides; the right hand road runs through Upper Pickwick; the left hand, through Lower Pickwick, and joins again at the 99 mile stone.
A little beyond this stone, on the right, is Vaccaris,
the residence of Mr. Dickinson.
On the hill, on the right, Coldham Church and
village, resembling an Italian one; Drewets Mill, in the bottom; and Haselbury Hill on the left.
From the 99th mile stone, the road winds along the ridge of a hill, and presently dips towards Box. Descending this hill, we command prospects over a rich valley, through which a rivulet streams; the high ground, on the lest, contains many quarries of freestone, such as Bath is built with.
Box is a neat village, at the foot of the hill, six miles from Bath.
Beyond Box, a steep descent brings us lower into
the valley; where we see, on an eminence, on the right, a handsome house, with wings, the residence of Mr. Wiltshire, the proprietor of the Bath waggons; who, from being a driver, is now a man of affluence and respectability: his place is called Shockerwick.
Bathmill, and Bathford Village, on the left: the sides of the hills here, on both sides, are richly decorated with wood, and beautiful meadows. The road now sunk into the bottom, we cross the stream, which, a little farther, falls into the Avon, at Bathford. From this we travel along the bank, with the river on our left, till we reach
Bath Easton, which, with Walcot, may be considered as the suburbs of Bath. At Bath Easton, on the right, is a handsome house, the country residence of Sir John Miller; the entrance to it is embellished with noble cedars, of extraordinary growth and beauty.
As we approach Bath, delightful prospects meet the eye; to the west, the city; on the left, the High Ground, less secured with wood on the east, a rich valley, with a lofty ridge, protecting it from the north.
Bath Hampton, on the left, beyond the river.
Bath Wick, beyond the river.
Before we proceed further, we will turn back, and describe the road to Bath through Devizes, from Beckhampton, where it branched off on Marlborough Downs to Calne; a little beyond the 81 mile stone.
From Beckhampton Inn, the road winds along the eastern verge of this Down, which divides it from the road to Calne.
A little beyond the 84 mile-stone, at a place called Shepherd's Shard, or Shore, the Devizes road turns off on the left.
At Shepherd's Shore we cross Wansdike, which is another stupendous monument of antiquity, a foss made in the time of the Romans, as one of the boundaries of the Belgic Kingdom. It passes 2 miles south of Marlborough, on the northern verge of the great ridge of hills, dividing, north and south, Wiltshire, till it descends St. Anne's Hill, on the left of Shepherd's Shore, making several right angles along the edges of the other hills, then mounts to the summit of Roundway Hill; on the north side the Roman road from Marlborough, unites with the Wansdike. Hence the Dike passes through Spy Park to the shire stones, at the division between Gloucestershire, Wiltshire, and Somerset-shire.
The Down continues.
Bishop Cannings on the left; Bagdon Hill on
the right; and beyond it, Roundway Hill and Castle.
Roundway Hill is famous for a battle fought here, July 13, 1648, between the King's army, and that of the Parliament, under Sir Wm. Waller. Sir William summoned it to surrender on certain conditions, which the besieged took advantage of, when the King's army was victorious, killed 600, and took 900 prisoners.
The road now descends.
Devizes, an ancient town, 89 miles from London, and 19 from Bath, is supposed to have been possessed by the Romans; a strong castle stood on high ground, south-west of the town, but no remains of it are standing. The Keep, or Dungeon, stood on a hill cast up by hand, which now may be seen in a garden, behind the chief inn, in the market-place.
The town has two churches; was chartered by Charles I. sends two members to Parliament, and is governed by a Mayor, Recorder, eleven Aldermen, and 36 Common Council: its manufactories are kerseymere, druggets, and other woollen cloths.
About half a mile from the town, is New Park, the seat of James Sutton, Esq. at the foot of Roundway Down, an elegant stone mansion, built by James Wyatt.
On descending a hill, not far from Devizes, we have extensive views over a rich country, bounded by the Somerset and Gloucestershire hills.
Before we reach Seend, the road divides; one branch goes through Seend, the other along the low ground, towards Melksham; but unite again, a little beyond the 96 mile-stone.
Near the village of Seend, 3 miles south of the Bath road, is Stoke Park, the seat of the late Peter Delme, Esq. now of Joshua Smith, Esq. member for Devizes. Mr. Smith has pulled the old house down, and built a new one, on a more elevated situation, and of Grecian architecture: its structure, from east to west, is 355 feet in front; it is just finished, and unites convenience and elegance.
Red Stacks on the right.
Bowyer on the left.
Bowyer House on the right. Bowyer Island on
the left.
Bowyer Hill
Turnpike.
Melksham, a small neat town, on the banks of
the Lower Avon; on which stand several cloth and corn-mills. A handsome house and pleasure ground, the residence of Mr. Thresher, stands close to the town, on the left.
Just beyond this stone, on the left, is Shaw House,
the seat of Mr. Arnold.
Shaw Hill; hence the road passes over Atford
Common to Atford, a village, but a principal stage on this road. Here we pass a turnpike. Before we reach the 98 mile stone, the road on the left leads to Corsham.
Wormwood.
Near this stone, a road crosses the turnpike; that
on the left goes to Bradford; that on the right to Corsham.
Cutts Corner.
Here we begin to ascend Kingsdown Hill, from
the top of which are extensive prospect. On the east, we look over great part of Wilts, with Round-way Hill; on the west, over Somersetshire; on the north-west, Gloucestershire.
Half a mile beyond the 103d stone, we enter Somersetshire, and descend to Bathford, where the two roads meet. Farley House on the left, the seat of Lord Webb Seymour.
We have now reached Bath, 107 miles from London, through Chippenham; 108 thro' Devizes.
Bath is a very ancient city of Somersetshire; its hot springs are said to have been discovered 863 years before Christ, by Bladud, from Brute. It is allowed to have been, formerly, a very extensive city, and to have been first reduced by the Romans, about the year 81.
Bath is seated in a very fertile vale, on the banks of the river Avon, and surrounded by hills, so as to be a very close, warm place, particularly in summer. From the bowels of these hills, is dug that beautiful freestone made use in building the city. Its increase, within the last 60 years, has been great and quick; from a small contracted town, it has extended itself into open streets and squares, with other elegant buildings in various forms; the whole making a city of considerable magnitude, so as to ascend almost to the summit of the hills about it, and new works are still going on.
The heat of the waters in the different baths, are as follow, according to Farenheit's Thermometer: The water in the King's bath, raises the mercury in its coldest place to 100 degrees; in its hottest, to 103 degrees. The hot bath exceeds this by some degrees; the degrees of heat in the Cross bath, is 94; and in the Queen's bath, 99.
Ladies and Gentlemen assemble every morning from 7 till 10, to drink the waters.
The amusements are various, rational, and well-conducted. There are two sets of assembly rooms, where the amusements are alternately held, and a theatre. Here are two hospitals, and four churches, including the abbey church. The abbey was founded by Osric, in 676; but the present building was begun in 1495, but not compleated, as it now is, till 1666. It has seven doors, and 52 windows, answering to the weeks in a year, and the days in a week: the tower is 162 feet high, and has a peel of 10 bells. Here are 12 other places of worship, and a public grammar school, endowed by Edward VI.
Bath is governed by a Mayor, Recorder, Aldermen, and 20 Common Council; sends two members to Parliament, and is the see of a Bishop, in conjunction with Wells. Here is a court of Record, that takes cognizance of debts above 40
s,
and a Court of Conscience, that determines matters under that sum.
It has two markets weekly, Wednesdays and Fridays; and well supplied, particularly with fish.
Bath being surrounded with very high hills, which are unpleasant to climb, very few people like to keep carriages. It is a remarkably clean place, and, lying on such a declivity, it is soon washed clean by a shower of rain, and is soon dry enough to walk upon, without soiling the shoes; and, for the accommodation of going to the rooms dressed, sedan-chairs are always at hand, for 6
d.
or 1
s.
The country round the city, is embellished with gentlemens seats; the most distinguished is Prior Park, the seat of the late Ralph Allen.
Lansdown over-hangs the city, and is renowned for a battle in the Civil Wars, on July 5, 1643, when the King's forces beat those of the Parliament. A monument is erected on it, in commendation of the above-mentioned victory, by George Lord Lansdown, in 1720.
The river Avon has been made navigable from Bath to Bristol, and makes the intercourse between them great. There are two roads to Bristol; the distance, 13 miles: one called the Upper Road; and the other, the Lower. The Upper runs from the west end of the city, along the northern side of the river, and through a part of Gloucestershire; the Lower, and the most frequented, winds along the southern bank of the river, from the old bridge; and a communication between these two roads, is formed by a handsome stone bridge, of one arch, over the same river, about two miles and a half below the town.
Passing then over the bridge, the Lower Road,
we soon reach Twiverton, two miles from Bath; and a little beyond the 3d mile-stone, Newton, a small town, scattered along the side of a hill; near
which, on the south or left, stands Newton Park, the seat of George Langton, Esq.. On the other side of the river, on a high ridge, stands a handsome house, the residence of some of the family of the late Sir Caesar Hawkins, who lived occasionally here.
The Vale of Bath, through which the Avon runs, is beautiful in all its parts, and worth the travellers' notice.
Proceeding on from Newton, we leave the village
of Corstan on the left, and pass through Saltford; on the right of which, on the Avon side, are several
copper and brass mills. Hence the road rises, and we pass through a rich country towards Keynsham, eight miles and a half from Bath.
Before we reach Keynsham, we see a handsome house on the north; this belongs to Edward Lyne, Esq.
Keynsham is a small market town, standing on two hills, on the south bank of the Avon, with a small bridge over the river Chew, which runs by it. The counties of Glocester and Somerset are joined by a larger bridge over the Avon, below the town.
Keynsham Church is of Gothic structure, and the high grounds beyond the town, have a beautiful effect.
Passing Keynsham, the house on the right is Mr. Butcher's.
At Stanton Drew, a few miles from Keynsham, are the remains of a Druid Temple, known by the name of
the Wedding,
from a vulgar opinion, that a bride and her attendants were changed into these stones. This temple, says Mr. Wood, consisted of three circles of stones, and formed a model of the Pythagorean System of the planetary world.
From Keynsham we descend into an enclosed wood-land country, leaving Keynsham Park on the
right; beyond which we rise another hill, and from the top, about three miles from Bristol, we have extensive prospects: here we pass a colliery.
Between the nine and ten mile-stones, the house on the right is Mr. Weirs; that on the left Mr. Ireland's.
From the above-mentioned hill, we descend to
Brislington; and, on our approach to Bristol, a great number of handsome houses and villas, lie scattered on both sides the road.
Beyond Brislington we go down an avenue of
stately trees, passing a fine sloping valley of rich verdure, on the left; and a more cultivated country on the right: and again passing many handsome
villas, winding round a hill, we get a full view of Bristol. Beyond this the road rises to the city.
A little beyond the 12 mile-stone, on the left, is the high road to Wells.
Bristol is 120 miles from London through Bath, but 6 miles nearer through Chippenham and Marshfield: it stands part in Somersetshire, and part in Gloucestershire, the two counties being divided by the river Avon.
This city is a county within itself, made so by Edward III. and Henry VIII. made it a bishop's see. It has 3 handsome squares, and 18 churches, besides the cathedral, which stands in Gloucestershire. The church of St. Mary Redcliff, is worthy attention, being the most beautiful structure of the kind in the kingdom: its roof is a solid arch of freestone.
Bristol sends two members to Parliament; and is governed by a Mayor, Recorder, 12 Aldermen, two Sheriffs, and 42 Common Council.
About a mile west of Bristol, in Gloucestershire, is the village of Clifton, seated on the side of a high hill, extending to the river Avon, the residence of many persons of fortune. It has a parade, a square, and other handsome buildings, fitted up for the accommodation of those who resort here for pleasure, or for health. There are two assembly-rooms, for the amusement of the company, on the plan of those at Bath.
At the western extremity of Clifton, near the lofty rock of St. Vincent's rises the Bristol hotsprings; the heat of which, by Fahrenheit's Thermometer, is 76 degrees.
THIS Description of the Road from London to Bath, will serve to conduct the traveller from Bath to London, if he reads it from the end to the beginning, and remembers that those places which in his way down to Bath were represented to be on the right of the road; in his way back, must be on the left, and
vicé versa.
THERE is a second road to Bath from London, as I have observed, to which I whould give the preference, for many reasons. In the first place, it avoids the hills between Marlborough and Devizes, and, of course, saves time upon the journey: secondly, being less frequented, is not so dusty in summer, or so much worn in winter: thirdly, a traveller is not so likely to be stopped by a run of post-chaises, or be obliged to go on with tired horses: and, lastly, inns are not so expensive. This road is through Staines, Hartford-bridge, Basingstoke, Andover, Luggershal, Everley, and Devizes. To Bath, this way, is one mile more, but the advantages more than compensate it; the country is equally beaut
f
l. If we travel it in autumn, we pass throu
h Weyhill Fair, the greatest in the kingdom; and if we would dispense with a mile or two more on our journey, and go through Ambresbury, instead of Everley and Devizes, the road is good, and we pass close by that superb piece of antiquity, the Druidical Temple of Stonehenge, which every person of taste and curiosity goes to see; and the road this way is not above two or three miles round.
I know the Bath road through Reading, has been admired for the good accommodations met with at the different inns, but all inns are now improved; and there are none that excel
Demesay's
at Hartford-bridge, and some others on the way: indeed, the accommodations at
Demesay's
are so excellent, that the Royal Family, sensible of it, make a point always of dining or supping there, in their journey to and from Weymouth.
If the traveller, (let him be of what cast he will) wishes to be amused on his journey, or at Bath,
Dr. Trusler
ventures to recommend to his perusal, the two following books; they will afford him a fund of entertainment, being full of laughable anecdote, and make him acquainted with the arts, finesse, and deceptions of the age, in all professions of life. They are a true and very pointed satire on men and manners, and most of the characters are now living: though written in the form of Novels, they are good
library books,
and will bear reading again and again.
MODERN TIMES, or THE ADVENTURES OF GABRIEL OUTCAST, a Novel, written in imitation of
Gil Blas;
4th Edition, 3 vols. with 12 humourous copper-plates, beautifully engraved.
Price
12
s. sewed.
All the Reviews speak highly of this work.
LIFE; or, THE ADVENTURES OF WILLIAM RAMBLE, a sequel to Modern Times, and written by the same Author—
Price
10
s.
6
d. sewed,
3 vols. with three copper-plates, and two original songs, with the music, by
Sterkel
and
Pleyel.
N. B. The plates of the above Novels were designed by
Ibbetson,
in his true spirit of original humour.
Finis.