A TOUR Thro' the Whole ISLAND of
GREAT BRITAIN.
Divided into
CIRCUITS
or
JOURNEYS.
GIVING A Particular and Entertaining ACCOUNT of whatever is
Curious,
and worth
Observation
; VIZ.
I. A DESCRIPTION of the Principal Cities and Towns, their Situation, Government, and Commerce.
II. The Customs, Manners, Exercises, Diversions, and Imployment of the People.
III. The Produce and Improvement of the Lands, the Trade, and Manufactures.
IV. The Sea Ports and Fortifications, the Course of Rivers, and the Inland Navigation.
V. The Publick Edifices, Seats, and Palaces of the NOBILITY and GENTRY.
VI. The Isles of
Wight, Portland, Jersey, Guernsey,
and the other
English
and
Scotish
Isles of most Note.
Interspersed with Useful
OBSERVATIONS.
Particularly fitted for the Perusal of such as desire to Travel over the ISLAND.
By a
GENTLEMAN.
The THIRD EDITION. With very great Additions, Improvements, and Corrections; which bring it down to the Year 1742.
And a Copious INDEX to each Volume.
VOL. II.
LONDON:
Printed for J. OSBORN, S. BIRT, D. BROWNE, J. HODGES, A. MILLAR, J. WHISTON, and J. ROBINSON. M.DCC..XLII.
A TOUR Through the ISLAND of
GREAT BRITAIN.
VOL. II.
LETTER I. Containing a
DESCRIPTION
of the North Shores of the Counties of
Cornwall
and
Devon,
and some Parts of
Somersetshire, Wiltshire, Dorsetshire, Gloucestershire, Buckinghamshire,
and
Berkshire.
SIR,
I NOW turned about to the East; and as, when I went West, I kept to the Southern Coast of this long County of
Cornwall,
and of
Devonshire
also, so in going East, I shall keep the North Shore. The first Place of any Note, we came to, was
St. Ive
's, a pretty good Town, and grown rich by the Fishing Trade; it is situated on the West-side of a deep Bay, called
St. Ives-bay,
from the Town. This Bay is opposite, on the Landside, to
Mount
's-
bay,
which I spoke of in my last; but it is filled up with Sands, and here is but very little Trade in any thing else but
Cornish
Slate.
It is a very pleasant View we have at
Madern-hills,
and the Plain by them, in the Way from the
Land's-end
to
St. Ives
; where we have a Prospect of the Ocean at the
Land's-end,
West; of the
British
Chanel at
Mount's-bay,
South; and the
Bristol
Chanel, or
Severn
Sea, North. At
St. Ives
the Land between the Two Bays, being not above Four or Five Miles over, is so situated, that upon the Hill neither of the Two Seas are above Three Miles off, and very plain to be seen; and so likewise, in a clear Day, are the Islands of
Scilly,
tho' above 30 Miles off.
The Country from hence to
Padstow
is both fruitful and pleasant, and several Houses of Gentlemen are seen as we pass; the Sands also are very agreeable to the Eye, and to travel upon: among the Gentlemens Houses is
Lanhidrock,
the Seat of the Earls of
Radnor,
who are Barons of
Truro,
and were so, long before they obtained the Title of
Radnor
; also a good House belonging to the antient Family of
Trefusis.
The Hills are fruitful of Tin, Copper and Lead, all the Way on our Right-hand; the Product of which is carried all to the other Shore; so that we shall have little to say of it here. The chief Business on this Shore is the Herring Fishing; the Herrings about
October
come driving up the
Severn
Sea, and from the Coast of
Ireland,
in prodigious Shoals, and beat all upon this Coast as high as
Bidiford
and
Barnstable
in
Devonshire,
and are caught in great Quantities by the Fishermen, chiefly on Account of the Merchants of
Falmouth, Foy, Plymouth,
and other Ports on the South.
St. Michael's,
or
Modishole,
a mean Portreeve Borough, is not now remarkable, but was of great Note in the
Saxon
Time, and has still a Market weekly, and a yearly Fair.
We then came to
St. Columb's,
a little Market-town, a Lordship belonging to the
Arundels
of
Wardour
; so called, to distinguish them from the
Arundels
of
Trerice
in this County; which Family, espousing the King's Side in the Civil Wars, suffered much, and was innobled in
Charles
II.'s Time. The
Wardour
Family was likewise loyal, and suffered in the same Cause.
Near this Place is a Hill, which has a Rampire on the Summit of it, and a Causeway leading to it. 'Tis an old
Danish
Camp, and called
Castellum Danis.
Padstow
is a large Town, and stands on a very good Harbour for such Shipping as use the
Irish
Trade. The Harbour is the Mouth of the River
Camel,
or
Camal,
which rising at
Camelford,
runs down by
Bodmyn
to
Wadbridge,
a little Town, where a large Stone Bridge of about Eight Arches is built by the Contributions of the Country Gentlemen, at the Motion, and under the Direction, of one
Nicolas Lovibond,
Vicar of
Wadbridge,
the Passage over the River before being very dangerous, and having occasioned the Loss of some Lives, as well as Goods.
The Passage from this Town of
Padstow
to
Ireland
is said, by Writers, to be no more than Twenty-four Hours; but this, if ever done, hat been so seldom, that it ought not to be mentioned as generally the Case; for I believe not one in Twenty-four Ships makes its Voyage in so few Hours; and that they are oftener Five or Six Days in the Passage. Here is a very antient Seat, like a Castle, of a Family of the Name of
Prideaux,
the Chief of which, in Queen
Elizabeth
's Time, built this noble Seat there.
Higher within the Land lies the Market and Borough Town of
Bodmyn,
formerly one of the Coining Towns of Tin, till it lost that Privilege to
Lestwithyel:
However it still injoys several Advantages, some of which are Tokens of its Antiquity. It is pretty large, and stands between two Hills in a good Air. It had antiently several Churches, of which now only one remains, which belonged to the Priory, and is at present the Parish Church. A kind of Carnival is kept here yearly, in
July,
whither great Numbers of People resort.
The Coinage Towns were, in Queen
Elizabeth
's Time, Four; namely,
Leskard,
Lestwithyel,
Truro,
Helston.
Since that, in King
James
's Time, was added
Pensance.
Camelford
is a mean, but antient Borough-town. Here the River
Camel
rises, which takes its Name from the
British
Word
Cam, i. e.
crooked. It has not either Church or Chapel in it, nor ever had. It is only remarkable for two great Battles which were fought here, one between King
Arthur
and his Nephew
Mordred,
and the other between the
Britons
and
Saxons.
The Borough of
Bossiney,
otherwise called
Trevena,
is but a small Village. It is famous only for the splendid Ruins of an impregnable Castle, built on the Rock, which stood partly on the Continent, and partly on an Island, joined together by a Drawbridge. The Castle was the Seat of the
British
Princes, and since, of the Dukes of
Cornwall.
And, 'tis said,
Arthur
was born here, and died in one of the above-mentioned Battles near
Camelford.
Launceston,
which is a Corruption of the
British
Word
Lanstuphadon,
i. e.
St. Stephen
's Church; is a Market and Borough-town, pretty neat, and is situate on a rising Ground, at the Extremity of the County, on the Borders of
Devonshire:
great Part of it is very old, ragged and decayed.
When
Richard
Earl of
Cornwall
had the Government of this County, this was a Frontier Town, well walled about, and fortified, and had also a noble Castle, which, from its Strength, was called
Castle Terrible.
The Inhabitants, for the Defence and Repair of it, held formerly the Lands here by
Castle-guard.
Here the Lord
Hopton
's good Fortune failed him, and he was forced by
Fairfax
to disband his Army.
Not far from hence is
Hengeston-hill,
which produces a great Plenty of
Cornish
Diamonds. The
Cornish Britons
joined the
Danes
here, to drive out the
Saxons
from
Devonshire
; but were totally defeated by
Egbert
in 831, which, 'tis conjectured, gives the Name of
Hengist
to this Hill, in Commemoration of their first Leader.
Newport
is a little Village adjoining, and was formerly Part of
Launceston
; and yet sends Two Members to Parliament. And indeed there are no less than Forty-four, and the Number of Electors are so few in many of the Places, that an Administration, of which Side soever it be, as to Party, has usually a great Reliance on the Elections in this County every new Parliament, in order to obtain a Majority in the House of Commons: For Forty-four Members from hence, and Forty-five from another Part of the Island, who generally go one way, make no small Figure in a Question: And in this Case it may not be improperly observed, that the two Extremities of the Island, let the other Parts go as they will, are generally united in the same way of Thinking, or at least of Acting, in all Political Debates, and are likely to be so in all Times to come.
There is a fine Image or Figure of
Mary Magdalen,
upon the Tower of the Church at
Launceston,
to which the Papists fail not to pay Reverence, as they pass by. There is no Tin, Copper or Lead found hereabouts, as I could hear, nor any Manufacture in the Place. There are a pretty many Attorneys here, who manage Business for the rest of their Fraternity at the Assizes: As to Trade, it has not much to boast of, and yet there are People enough in it to excuse those who call it a populous Place. There is a long Nook of the County runs North from this Place, called the
Hundred of
Stratton, in which there is one Market-town, named
Stratton
; but it has nothing in or about it worth remarking, except only
Stow-house,
built by the Earl of
Bath,
in the Reign of King
Charles
II. and as to its Finishings within, not inferior to any in
England.
The Carvings, especially those of the Chapel; the grand Alcove, and some of the best Rooms, were done by the Hand of
Michael Chuke,
and are not excelled by
Gibbon
himself. The Landschape, and Sea-pieces, of which there were a great Number, (particularly in the great Stairs, a Prospect of
Plymouth,
containing 22 Feet by 12) were the Work of
Vandeist.
The Situation of this stately Palace renders it a disagreeable Habitation; for which Reason the Owners have disposed of the Materials, and it is now (
Nov.
1739) pulling to Pieces. Near this Town, Sir
Ralph Hopton
defeated the Parliament Forces under the Command of Major-General
Chudleigh,
and took him Prisoner; for which he was made Baron
Stratton.
'Tis said, the Place where this Battle was fought, produced a prodigious Crop of Barley of 10 or 12 Ears on a Stalk, the next Year.
Not far from
Bodmyn,
is to be seen the Set of monumental Stones, called
The Hurlers
; which Dr.
Stukeley
says, are, out of Doubt, Remains of an antient
Druid
Temple. Probably they are called by this Name, from the Game of Hurling, practised in these Parts; the Country People giving them that for want of a better; and indeed, it is said, that they have a superstitious Notion, that they were once Men, who were transformed into Stones, for playing at this Sport on a
Sunday.
They are oblong, rude, unhewn Stones, pitched on one End upon the Ground. They stand on a Down in Three Circles, the Centres whereof are in a right Line, the middle-most Circle the greatest.
Now I have mentioned the
Hurlers,
I must take the Opportunity to describe the
Hurling Match
; for which the
Cornish
Men are so particularly famous, and which is one of their principal Recreations, tho' barbarous enough. A Silver Ball is generally the Prize on these Occasions. The Match is made in different Manners: for sometimes the Challenge is by Twenty or Thirty Men on a Side, and no others are to interfere; at other times, when a great Number of People are assembled at a
Wake
or
Church-Ale,
the Word is given out,
That
Johns, Wills,
and
Toms,
will oppose all other Names:
or, at other times,
That
Eldest
or
Seconds
are against all
Younger Sons. And so the Ball is thrown up, and becomes the Property of that Party which carries it away to the Goal set for that Purpose.
But another kind of
Hurling
is, when an
Out-ball,
as they call it, is thrown up; and these Matches are generally made by Two or more neighbouring Gentlemen, who, at a Day agreed on, bring each of them the Men of Two, Three, or more Parishes; and the Goals are then set, perhaps, Four or Five Miles distant, at some Gentlemens Houses, Towns, or the like: and here nothing is said about Matching in Number, or otherwise; but the Ball is thrown up, and a bloody Skirmish generally ensues: no Bushes, Briers, Bogs, Mud-pools, Rivers, or any other Impediments, hinder their Course, nor any Friendship, Relation, or former Obligation, in the least, abates their Fury. The Party prevailing generally present the Ball to the Gentlemen who brought them on, as a Trophy; and he, in Return, sets open his Cellar-doors, where they wash away the Blood from their Noses, and apply a Balsam to their Bruises.
The Wrestling in
Cornwall
is, indeed, a much more manly and generous Exercise; and that Closure, which they call the
Cornish Hug,
has made them eminent in the Wrestling Rings all over
England
; as the
Norfolk
and
Suffolk
Men are, for their Dexterity at the Hand and Foot, and throwing up the Heels of their Adversary, without taking hold of him.
Passing the River
Tamar,
about Two Miles from
Launceston,
we enter the great County of
Devon
; and as it is in the most wild and barren Part of it, and where formerly Tin Mines were found, tho' now they are either quite exhausted, or not to be worked without more Charge than Profit; so we must expect it a little to resemble its neighbour County.
The River
Tamar
here abounds with fresh Salmon, which are so exceeding fat and good, that they are esteemed in both Counties above the Fish of the same Kind found in other Places; and the Quantity is so great, as supplies the Country in abundance. This is occasioned by the Mouth of the River being so very large, and the Water so deep for Two Leagues before it opens into
Plymouth Sound,
that the Fish have a secure Retreat in the salt Water for their Harbour and Shelter, and from thence they shoot up into the fresh Water, in vast Numbers, to cast their Spawn.
We ride but a few Miles in
Devonshire,
before we find a different Face in several respects: As, 1. More People than in
Cornwall:
2. Larger Towns: 3. The People all busy, and in full Imploy upon their Manufactures.
At the uppermost and extreme Part of the County North-west, runs a large Promontory into the Sea beyond all the Land on either Side, whether of
Devonshire,
or of
Cornwall.
This they would fain have called
Hercules
's
Promontory
; but the honest Sailors, and, after them, the plain Country People, call it
Hartland Point,
or
Hearty Point,
from the Town of
Hartland,
which stands just within the Shore, and is situated on the utmost Edge of the County of
Devon:
It is a Market-town of good Resort, the People coming constantly to it out of
Cornwall,
the Fisher-boats of
Barnstable, Bidiford,
and the other Towns on the Coasts, lying often under the
Lee,
as they call it, of these Rocks, for Shelter from the South-west, or South-east Winds; at which time the Seamen go on Shore here, and supply themselves with Provisions: nor is the Town unconcerned in that gainful Fishing-trade, which is carried on for the Herrings on this Coast.
From this Point or Promontory, the Land falling away for some Miles, makes a Gulph or Bay, which reaching to the Head-land, or Point of
Barnstable
Haven, is called from thence
Barnstable
Bay. Into this Bay, or at the West-end of it, the Rivers
Taw
and
Towridge
empty themselves at one Mouth; and it is very particular, that as Two Rivers join in One Chanel, so here are Two great trading Towns in One Port, a thing, which, as it is not usual, so I cannot say is an Advantage to any of them; for it naturally follows, that they rival one another, and lessen both; whereas, had they been joined together in one Town, or were it possible to join them, they would make the most considerable Town, or City rather, in all this Part of
England.
These are the Towns of
Barnstable
and
Bidiford,
the first, the most antient; the last, the most flourishing; the Harbour or River is, in its Entrance, the same to both; and when they part, the
Towridge
turns to the Right, or South-west, and the
Taw
to the South-east; yet they seem to be both so safe, so easy in the Chanel, so equally good with respect to Shipping, and so equidistant from the Sea, that neither Town complains of the Bounty of the Sea to them, or their Situation by Land; and yet of late Years the Town of
Bidiford
has flourished, and the Town of
Barnstable
rather declined.
Bidiford
is a clean, well-built Town; the more antient Street, which lies next the River, is very pleasant, where is the Bridge, a very noble Quay, and the Custom-house; it is also very well built and populous, and fronts the River for above three Quarters of a Mile: But besides this, there is a new spacious Street, which runs North and South, or rather North-west, and South-east, a great Length, broad as the
High-Street
of
Exeter,
well-built, and inhabited with considerable and wealthy Merchants, who traffick to most Parts of the World.
Here, as is to be seen in almost all the Market-towns of
Devonshire,
is a very large and well-finished Meeting-house, and, by the Multitude of People which I saw come out of it, I thought all the Town had gone thither, and began to inquire for the Church: but I found that also large, spacious, and filled with People of the best Fashion.
The Trade of this Town, as well as of all the Towns on this Coast, being very much in Fish, I observed that several Ships were imployed to go to
Liverpool,
and up the River
Mersey
to
Warrington,
to fetch the Rock Salt, which is found in that County, (and of which I shall say more in my Remarks on those Parts) to
Bidiford
and
Barnstable,
and there dissolve it into Brine in the Sea-water, joining the Strength of two Bodies in one, and then boil it up again into a new Salt, as the
Dutch
do by that of the
French
and
Portuguese.
This is justly called
Salt upon Salt,
and with this they cure their Herrings. As this is a Trade which can be but of few Years standing, because the Rock Salt itself has not been discovered in
England
many Years; so the Difference in curing the Fish has been such, that the Demand for them has considerably increased in foreign Markets.
Here is a very fine Stone Bridge over the River, built in the 14th Century, on 24
Gothick
Arches, all uniform and regular, and very good Workmanship of the kind. These Arches are indeed beautiful and stately; but what a late Author says, that one of them is so big, that a Ship of 60 Tons may sail under it, is a Mistake, no such thing being practicable, either at
London
Bridge,
Rochester
Bridge, or even at
York,
where the largest Arch in
England
is supposed to be.
As
Bidiford
has a fine Bridge over the
Towridge,
so
Barnstable
has a very noble one over the
Taw,
and tho' not longer, is counted larger and stronger than the other. These two rival Towns are really very considerable; both of them have a large Share in the Trade to
Ireland,
and in the Herring-fishery, and in a Trade to the
British
Colonies in
America
; if
Bidiford
cures more Fish,
Barnstable
imports more Wine, and other Merchandizes; they are both established Ports for landing Wool from
Ireland
; of which by itself.
If
Bidiford
has a greater Number of Merchants,
Barnstable
has a greater Commerce within Land, by its great Market for
Irish
Wool and Yarn,
&c.
with the Serge-markets of
Tiverton
and
Exeter,
who come up hither to buy. So that, in a word,
Barnstable,
tho' it has lost Ground to
Bidiford,
yet, take it in all its Trade completely, is full as considerable as
Bidiford
; only, that perhaps it was formerly far superior to it, and the other has risen up to be its Match.
Barnstable
is a large, well-built Town, seated among the Hills. It is more populous than
Bidiford,
but not better built, and stands lower; insomuch, that at High-water in Spring-tides it is, in a manner, surrounded with Water. The Bridge was built by the generous Benefaction of one
Stamford,
a Citizen and Merchant of
London,
who, it seems, was not a Native of the Place; but by trading here to his Gain, had Kindness enough for the Town, to confer that valuable Benefit upon them. It was formerly walled in, and had a Castle and a Priory. 'Tis governed by a Mayor and Twenty-four Burgesses, whereof Two are Aldermen. It has also an High-Steward, and Recorder.
The Bridge at
Bidiford,
as above, was likewise a Gift; but was, as they say, done by Collections among the Clergy, by Grant of Indulgences, and the like Church Management: However, both the Towns are infinitely obliged to the Benefactors; and we wish no worse Use had ever been made of Superstition.
Behind
Bidiford,
as we come from
Launceston,
are several good Towns, tho' I observed, that the Country was wild and barren; as
Tavistock, Torrington,
&c.
Tavistock
is situate on the
Tavy,
among Springs, and is a large Town pretty well built. The Abbot of this Place sat in Parliament, built a Church of 126 Yards long, spacious Cloisters, and a Chapter-house, with 36 Stalls, which are all now destroy'd.
The Town of
Torrington
is situated on the same River that
Bidiford
stands upon. It has a large spacious Church, with a Library in it; and was for some time the Residence of
Margaret,
the Mother of
Henry
VII.
Another Town in this Part of the Country is
Okehampton,
vulgarly
Okington,
a good Market and Borough-town, governed by Eight principal Burgesses, and as many Assistants: it is a manufacturing Town, as all the Towns this way now are, and pretty rich; but in the Records of Antiquity it appears to have been much more considerable than it is now, having 92 Knights Fees belonging to it.
A little above
Barnstable,
N. E. upon the Coast, stands a noted Market and Port-town, called
Ilfordcomb,
a Place of good Trade, populous and rich; which is owing to its having a very good Harbour and Road for Ships, which affords a safe Shelter for Vessels from
Ireland,
when in bad Weather they cannot, without the extremest Hazard, run into the Mouth of the
Taw,
which they call
Barnstable
Water; and this is one Reason, that the Merchants at
Barnstable
do much of their Business at this Port of
Ilfordcomb.
The Harbour of this Town was maintain'd formerly at the private Expence of the Ancestors of Sir
Bourchier Wrey,
Bart. Lord of the Manor; and the Quay or Pier of it contains in Length upwards of 850 Feet, and in Height upwards of Forty; and the Warp-house, Light-house, Pilot-boats, and Taw-boats belonging to the Port, were at first founded and built, and constantly repaired and maintained, by that worthy Family, without any Assistance, but some small Acknowledgments paid to them as Lords of the Manor. But by Length of Time, and Violence of the Sea, the Quay was very much sunk and impair'd, the Warp and Warp-house, by long Usage, was gone to Decay, and the Boats for Piloting and Towing were much out of Repair, and the small Duties and Acknowlegements to Sir
Bourchier
sinking, and being frequently unpaid; to remedy all these Evils, an Act passed
Anno
1731,
George
II. for repairing, and keeping in Repair, and inlarging the Piers and Harbour, and for the Support of the Light and Light-house, the Warp and Warp-house, and the Pilot, and Towing-boats, as above-mentioned: so that by this means the Harbour of
Ilfordcomb
is likely to continue the useful and convenient Port it has been for so many Years past, to the End of Time.
Antiquity tells us long Stories of the
Danes
landing on this Coast; of
Hubba
the
Danish
King being slain at
Kennith
Castle, between this Place and the Mouth of the
Taw
and
Towridge
; and that the Place was called
Hubbestow
from his being buried there: but I could not hear either of this Castle, or Burial-place, or so much as the Ruins of them.
The Sea-coast in this Country runs a little farther East by North; but nothing of Moment is to be seen there, except Fishing-towns, and little Creeks, on which are Two Market-towns,
viz. Combemerton
and
Porlock,
till we came to
Minehead.
Leaving the Coast in our Journey Southward, we came to the great River
Ex
or
Isca,
which rises in the Hills on the North Side of the County, and, like the
Tamar,
begins within Four or Five Miles of the
Severn
Sea. The Country it rises in is called
Exmore: Camden
says it is a filthy, barren Ground; and indeed so it is: but as soon as the
Ex
comes off from the Moors and hilly Country, and descends into the lower Grounds, we found an Alteration; for then we saw
Devonshire
in its other Countenance, cultivated, populous and fruitful, and continuing so till we came to
Tiverton.
Next to
Exeter,
this is the greatest manufactureing Town in the County, and, of all the inland Towns, is likewise next to it in Wealth, and Number of People; it stands on the River
Ex,
and has over it an old Stone Bridge, with another over the little River
Loman,
which immediately after falls into the
Ex
just below the Town. Antiquity says, before those Bridges were built, there were two Fords here, one thro' each River; and that the Town was from thence called
Twyfordton,
that is, the Town upon the two Fords; and so, by abbreviating the Sounds,
Twy-for-ton,
then
Tiverton.
This Town has been a remarkable Sufferer by Fire; for in the Year 1598.
April
3. it was consum'd on a sudden;
Aug.
5. 1612, it was again burnt down; and
July
5. 1731, another dreadful Fire destroyed there 200 of the best Houses.
An Act passed on this sad Occasion,
Anno
1732, for the more easy rebuilding of the Town, and determining Differences on that Account; and it injoins, that the new-built Houses shall be cover'd with Lead, Slate, or Tile, and not Thatch; that perilous Trades shall not be exercised in publick Streets; that no Stacks of Hay, Straw, Corn,
&c.
shall be erected at or near the publick Parts of the Town; that Fire-Engines may be bought by the Guardians of the Poor; that Houses may be demolished to stop any future Fire: that the Streets and Passages of the Town may be inlarged, and particular Houses pulled down for that Purpose, with other useful Provisions.
An Act also passed
Anno
1733, for making a Chapel, built by the Subscription of the Inhabitants of
Tiverton,
a perpetual Cure; and for providing a Maintenance for the Ministers who shall officiate in it; for, as the Preamble to the Act observes, the Parish Church was not near capacious enough to receive the Inhabitants of the Parish. The late Sir
William Wyndham
was a great Encourager and Promoter of this new Chapel at its first Erection.
But the Beauty of
Tiverton
is the Free-School, at the East Entrance into the Town, a noble Building, but a much nobler Foundation; it was erected by one
Peter Blundel,
a Clothier, and a Lover of Learning, who used the Saying of
William of Wickham
to the King, when he founded the Royal School at
Winchester, viz.
"That if he was not himself a Scholar, he would be the Occasion of making more Scholars than any Scholar in
England
;"
to which End he founded this School. He has endow'd it so liberally, that, I was told, the Schoolmaster has at least Sixty Pounds
per Annum,
besides a very good House to live in, and the Advantage of Scholars not on the Foundation; and that the Usher has in Proportion. To this the generous Founder added Two Fellowships, and Two Scholarships, which he gave the Maintenance for to
Sydney
College in
Cambridge
; and One Fellowship, and Two Scholarships, to
Baliol
College in
Oxford
; all which are appointed for the Scholars bred up in this School.
As this is the chief Nursery of almost all the young Gentry of these Western Parts, the Profit arising to the Master from Boarders, and the liberal Benefactions of the Parents, added to the Salary before-mention'd, render it a Preferment suitable to a Man of the best Parts and Learning; and as the Trustees are Gentlemen of great Honour, it is generally disposed of to the most worthy Candidate. Mr.
Rayner
presided in it for many Years, with very great Applause, and dy'd about
This was written
Anno
1740.
Twelve Years ago. To him succeeded Mr.
Smith
; after him Mr.
Jones
; next Mr.
Wesley,
once Usher of
Westminster
School, as noted for his poetical Performances, as his Brothers
John
and
Charles
are for their being at the Head of the new Sectarists, who are called
Methodists
; and he dying
Nov.
1739, is succeeded by Mr.
Daddo.
Thus hath it, in Twelve Years time, undergone Five different Regimens; and if it be consider'd, that every Change introduces some Difference in the Method of Teaching and Discipline, it will be no Surprize, that the School is something sunk in its former Reputation. The present Master is Fellow of
Baliol
College,
Oxford,
had his Education here, and from his great Abilities, and good Oeconomy, (in which last respect a great Complaint lay against his Predecessor) the School is like to retrieve its former flourishing Condition.
The great Number of Gentlemens Sons sent hither for their Education, as I have hinted, is no small Advantage to the Town likewise; and this, join'd with the brisk Trade carried on here, renders it so flourishing, that notwithstanding the dreadful Calamity it underwent by the Fire in 1731, which almost totally consumed it, it is already very elegantly rebuilt; and carries very few other Marks of this Devastation, than the Magnificence and Beauty of the new Structures.
As this is a manufacturing Country, we found the People here all fully imploy'd, and very few, if any, out of Work.
From this Town there is little belonging to
Devonshire
but what has been spoken of, except what lies in the Road to
Taunton,
which we took next, where we meet with the River
Columb,
which rises also in the utmost Limits of the County towards
Somersetshire,
and gives Name to so many Towns on its Banks, that it leaves no room to doubt of its own Name being right; such are
Columb-David
's,
Ufcolumb, Columbstock,
and
Columbton
; the last is a Market-town, and they are all full of Manufacturers depending much on the Master-manufacturers of
Tiverton.
Before we leave
Devonshire,
it will not be amiss to take Notice of
Lundy
Island, which, tho' 50 Miles from
Devonshire,
North-westward, is much mote remote from any other Continent. 'Tis but Five Miles long, and Two broad; but so surrounded with inaccessible Rocks, that there is but one small Entrance into it, where Two Men can scarce go abreast. Tho' this Island lies so far in the Sea, it has the Advantage of several Springs of fresh Water.
With the Town of
Tiverton
we leave the County of
Devon,
and entering
Somersetshire,
have really a View of a different Country from
Devonshire
; for at
Wellington,
the first Town we came to in
Somersetshire,
tho' partly imployed in Manufactureing too, we were immediately surrounded with Beggars, to such a Degree, that we had some Difficulty to keep them from under our Horses Heels. I was astonish'd at such a Sight, in a Country where the People were so generally full of Work; for in
Cornwall,
where there are hardly any Manufacturers, and abundance of Poor, we never found any like this.
Wellington
is a low dirty Place, and is only remarkable for having been the Place of Residence of the Lord Chief Justice
Popham,
in the Reigns of Q.
Elizabeth,
and King
James
I. who was buried here. They talk much of one
Salkeld,
who was converted from Popery by King
James
I. and made Minister of this Place. He called himself, in Compliment to the King,
The Royal Convert
; who, in return, complimented him with the Title of the
Learned Salkeld,
which, by-the-bye, reflected no bad Compliment on himself, for having converted a learned Man.
The County of
Somerset
joins to the North-east Part of
Devonshire,
and takes its Name from the
British
Word
Gladyr Haf,
which signifies Summer-Country, and so the
Welsh
call it in their Language to this Day. I touch'd only upon one Point of the County in my last, as I went Westward. The whole County is worth a more particular Account, than can be given within the Space of a Letter.
From
Wellington
we came to
Taunton,
leaving
Blackdown Hills
on our Right, and
Ilminster
behind them Southward, a Market-town, fam'd for its very good Church, and a stately Monument erected in it to
Nicolas Wadham,
and
Dorothy,
his Wife, Founders of
Wadham
College,
Oxon.
Near
Taunton
lies that rich Track of Ground, vulgarly called
Taunton-dean.
This large, wealthy, and very populous Town takes its Name from the River
Tone,
whereon it is situated. One of the chief Manufacturers here told us, That there was at that time so good a Trade in the Town, that they had eleven hundred Looms going for the Weaving of Sagathies, Duroys, and such kind of Stuffs; and that not one of those Looms wanted Work: he added, That there was not a Child in the Town, or in the Villages round it, of above Five Years old, but, if it was not neglected by its Parents, and untaught, could earn its own Bread. This was what I never met with in any Place in
England,
except at
Colchester
in
Essex.
The Election of Members here, is by those whom they call Pot-Walloners, that is to say, Every Inhabitant, whether House-keeper or Lodger, who dresses his own Victuals: to make out which, several Inmates or Lodgers will, some little time before the Election, bring out their Pots, and make Fires in the Street, and boil their Victuals in the Sight of their Neighbours, that their Votes may not be called in Question.
There are Two large Parish Churches in this Town, and Two or Three Meeting-houses, one of which is said to be the largest in the County. The Inhabitants have been noted for Dissenters principally; for
Taunton
was always counted a Seminary for such. They suffer'd much in the Duke of
Monmouth
's Rebellion, but paid King
James
home for the Cruelty exercised by
Jefferies
among them; for when the Prince of
Orange
arriv'd, the whole Town ran in to him, with so universal a Joy, that it was thought, if he had wanted it, he might have raised a little Army there, and in the adjacent Part of the Country.
There is a kind of College, or Academy, for the Dissenters in this Town; and it is by far the greatest Town in all this Part of the Country.
From
Taunton
we went North to take a View of the Coast.
Exmore,
of which mention was made above, where the River
Ex
rises, lies in the Way, Part of it in this County, and extending to the Sea Side: it gives, indeed, but a melancholy View, being a vast Track of barren and desolate Lands; yet on the Coast there are some very good Sea-ports.
Porlock,
mentioned before, on the utmost Extent of the County, has but a small Harbour, nor has it any thing of Trade.
But
Minehead,
the safest Harbour on this Side, is a fine Port: no Ship is so big, but it may come in; and no Weather so bad, but the Ships are safe when they are in; and they told me, that in the great Storm,
Anno
1703, when the Ships were blown on Shore, wreck'd, and lost, in every Harbour of the County, they suffer'd little or no Damage in this.
The Trade of this Town lies chiefly with
Ireland,
and this was for many Years the chief Port in these Parts, where Wool from
Ireland
was allowed to be imported; but that Liberty is since inlarged to several other Ports by Act of Parliament.
The Town is well built, is full of rich Merchants, and has some Trade also to
Virginia,
and the
West Indies.
They correspond much with the Merchants of
Barnstable
and
Bristol,
in their foreign Trade. What has greatly contributed to the Improvement of
Minehead,
was an Act passed in the 12th and 13th Year of the late King
William
's Reign, which was continued by an Act of the Tenth of the late Queen
Anne,
For Recovering, Securing, and keeping in Repair, the Harbour of
Minehead.
And now so lately as in the Session 1737-8, another Act passed for further continuing the Terms and Powers of the Two former Acts, for the bringing to Effect the same laudable Purposes, in pursuance of which a new Head has been built, the Beach clear'd, and a great Progress made in the Piers and design'd Works.
From hence the Coast bears back West to
Watchet,
a small Port of late Years, tho' formerly much more considerable; for it had given Place to
Minehead,
tho' now it is in a much better Condition than it used to be in; and this it owes to Two Acts of Parliament, one passed in the Sixth Year of the late Queen
Anne,
for repairing of its Quay and Harbour, and the other in the Tenth. But when the Works designed were near completed, it was found, that the Quay was built much too low, and not extended to a sufficient Length to preserve the Town, and the Ships and Vessels riding in the Harbour, from the Violence of the Sea: whereupon another Act passed in the Seventh of King
George
I. for continuing the Duties laid by the former Acts, and remedying the Inconveniencies before-mentioned.
It seems to me, that the Town of
Minehead
rose out of the Decay of the Towns of
Porlock
and
Watchet.
On this Coast are vast Quantities of Rock, or rather Pebbles, which the Sea, at low Water, leaves uncovered, from whence the neighbouring Inhabitants fetch them on Shore to a higher Ground, and burn them into Lime for dressing their Land; but it is more especially useful in Building; for that no Cement whatsoever is more lasting for
Jets d' Eau
Heads, Piers, and other Masonry that is to lie under Water; in which Position it runs up to a Stone as hard as Marble, and is scarce to be beaten abroad. The Cliffs are stored with Alabaster, which, by the Wash of the Sea, falls down, and is convey'd from hence to
Bristol,
and other Places on this Shore, in great Quantity. Neither should it be omitted, that the Inhabitants burn great Quantities of Seaweed to supply the Glass-makers at
Bristol.
Walking on the Beach near
Watchet,
I discover'd among the large Gravel great Numbers of Stones, fluted in Imitation of the Shells of Fishes of all kinds: many of the flat kind are double, and curiously tallied one in another, which may, by a violent Stroke, be separated. How to account for the vast Variety to be found here of this Sport of Nature, I know not: some I have seen as broad as a Pewter-dish, and again others no bigger than a Pepper-corn; but in all of them the Flutings are regular; some like the Escallop, in Rays from a Centre, others like the Perriwinkle, in spiral Lines: in these and all other Forms, they lie here in great Plenty.
Quantock
is a high Down in the Neighbourhood; from whence, besides the two little Islands, called the
Steep-Holmes,
and the
Flat-Holmes,
and an extensive View of the Chanel, I had a fair and distinct Prospect of the
Welsh
Coast for many Leagues in Length.
From hence the winding Shore brings us to
Bridgwater.
This is an antient and very considerable Town and Port; it stands at the Mouth of the River
Parrat,
or
Perrot,
which comes from the South, after having received the River
Tone
from the West, which is made navigable up to within a few Miles of
Taunton,
by a very fine new Chanel, cut at the Expence of the People of
Taunton,
and which, by the Navigation of it, is infinitely advantageous to that Town, and well worth all their Expence, first by bringing up Coals, which are brought from
Swanzy
in
Wales
by Sea to
Bridgwater,
and thence by Barges up this River to
Taunton
; next for bringing all heavy Goods and Merchandizes from
Bristol,
such as Iron, Lead, Oil, Wine, Hemp, Flax, Pitch, Tar, Grocery, Dye-stuffs, and the like.
This Town of
Bridgwater
is a populous, tradeing Town, well-built, and as well inhabited, having many Families of good Fashion dwelling in it, besides Merchants. The famous Admiral
Blake,
who under the Commonwealth so much exalted the Glory of the
English
maritime Force, was a Native of this Town.
This Town was regularly fortified in the late Civil Wars, and sustained more than one Siege. The Situation of it renders it easy to be fortified, the River and Haven taking one chief Part of the Circumference. Over the River, they have a very good Bridge of Stone; and the Tide rises here, at High-water, near Six Fathoms, and sometimes flows in with such Impetuosity, that it comes Two Fathoms deep at a time; and when it does so, unawares, it often occasions great Damage to Ships, driving them foul of one another, and frequently oversets them. This sudden Rage of the Tide is called the
Boar,
and is frequent in all the Rivers of this Chanel, especially in the
Severn
; 'tis also known in the North, particularly in the
Trent,
and the
Ouse,
at their Entrance into the
Humber,
at
Bristol,
and in several other Places.
There is in
Bridgwater,
besides a very large Church, a fine Meeting-house, built since the Toleration, in which 'tis remarkable, that they have an advanced Seat for the Mayor and Aldermen, when any of the Magistrates shall be of their Communion, as sometimes has happened. Here also is a College, or private Academy, for the Dissenters to breed up their preaching Youth.
From
Bridgwater
is a Road to
Bristol,
which they call the
Lower-way
; the
Upper-way,
which is the more frequented Road, being over
Mendip Hills.
This Lower-way is not always passable, being subject to Floods, and dangerous Inundations. All this Part of the Country,
viz.
between
Bridgwater
and the Sea, and on Northward upon the Coast, lies low, and is wholly imployed in feeding of Black Cattle, which they bring out of the West Part of
Devon,
and the neighbouring Borders of
Cornwall,
where the finest are bred; for as to those few bred in these low Lands, they are very heavy, sluggish, and unshapely, and the Beef soft and spongy, such as they seldom or never drive to
London
Markets. Indeed, they breed a great many Colts; but then they too must be transplanted very young, into a dry, healthy Soil; for 'tis very difficult to find a Horse of their own Breed fit for any thing but a Drudge. The Moors, or Marsh-grounds, which are also imploy'd in the same way, extend themselves up the Rivers
Perrot
and
Ivil,
into the Heart of the Country; of which in its Place.
This low Part, between
Bridgwater
and
Bristol,
suffered exceedingly in that terrible Inundation of the Sea, which was occasioned by the great Storm,
Anno
1703; and the Country-people have set up Marks upon their Houses and Trees, with this Note upon them,
Thus high the Waters came in the great Storm: Thus far the great Tide flowed up in the last violent Tempest
; and the like.
In one Place they shewed us where a Ship was driven up upon the Shore, several hundred Yards from the ordinary High-water Mark, and left upon dry Land.
As the low Part is thus imployed in grazing and feeding Cattle, so all the rest of this large extended Country is imployed in the Woollen Manufacture, and in the best and most profitable Part of it,
viz.
In
Taunton
The Serges, Druggets,
&c.
and several other kinds of Stuffs.
In
Wells, Shepton, Glastenbury,
&c.
Knitting of Stockens, principally for the
Spanish
Trade.
In
Bristol,
and many Towns on the
Somersetshire
Side
Druggets, Cantaloons, and other Stuffs.
In
Froom, Philips-Norton,
and all the Country bordering upon
Wiltshire
Fine
Spanish
Medley Cloths, especially on that Part of the County from
Wincanton,
and
Meer,
to
Warminster, Bruton, Castlecary, Temple-comb,
down to
Gillingham
and
Shaftsbury,
in
Dorsetshire.
These fine
Spanish
Medley Cloths are the mix'd colour'd Cloths, which all the Persons of Fashion in
England
wear. There are vast Quantities of these exported to all Parts of
Europe,
and it is so very considerable a Trade, and of so vast an Advantage to
England,
in maintaining and supporting so many poor Families, and making so many rich ones, that it is almost impossible to give a just Description of it. The above Sketch, however, may serve as an Introduction to it. But I shall add a little more concerning this County; and upon my entering into the North-west and West Parts of
Wiltshire,
where the Centre of this Prodigy of a Trade is, I shall sum it all up together, and shew you the Extent of Land which it spreads itself upon, and so give you some Idea, as well of the vast Numbers of People who are sustained, as of those who are inriched by it.
But I must first go back a little while into
Somersetshire:
The Northern Part of the County I did not visit in this Journey, which, as I hinted before, is only a Return from my long Travel to the
Land's-end.
In omitting this Part, I, of course, leave the two Cities of
Bristol
and
Bath,
and that high Part of the County called
Mendip-hill,
to my next Western Journey, which will include all the Counties due West from
London
; for these now spoken of, tho' ordinarily called the West-country, are rather North-west than West.
In that Part of the Country which lies Southward of
Taunton
and
Bridgwater,
is
Langport,
a well-frequented Market-town, on the River
Parr,
which is navigable for Barges to
Bristol,
and occasions a good Trade here. Eels are exceeding plentiful and cheap here. Near this Place General
Fairfax
beat up the discontented
Goring
's Quarters, and intirely defeated him.
South Petherton
is a Market-town on the same River, famous, of old, for the Place of King
Ina,
but now of no other Note than an annual Fair, which lasts Five Days, in
June.
From hence you come to
Yeovil,
which I have already mentioned in a former Letter.
Ivelchester
is a Borough Town, and, as its Ruins shew, was formerly very large, and incompass'd with a double Wall, and had Four Churches. It has now a good Bridge over the
Ivel.
It was here that, on the 3d of
May
1740, Mrs.
Elizabeth Branch,
and her Daughter, Miss
Betty Branch,
were executed for a most barbarous Murder committed on the Body of a Servant Girl, by one continued Series of Seven Hours beating and whipping, which with the Behaviour of the Criminals, was of so cruel and atrocious a Nature, that it shocked the whole Kingdom. The Particulars are too well known to need any farther Mention here, had we Room, which we have not.
Somerton
is a good Market-town, whence, some say, the Country takes its Name. It was antiently very noted, and had a strong Castle, in which
John
King of
France
was Prisoner. Here is a Fair which holds from
Palm-Sunday
to the Middle of
June.
Milbourn
lies on the Edge of
Dorsetshire,
and is very antient; but has neither Market, nor Fair.
Camalet
is a noted Place, situated on the highest Ground in this County, on the Edge of
Dorsetshire:
its vulgar Name is
Cadbury-castle,
from the Village of
North-Cadbury,
wherein it stands. Hereabouts rise the Rivers of
Somersetshire,
which run into the
Severn
Sea Westward, and that in
Dorset,
which goes Eastward, thro'
Sturminster,
into the Southern Ocean. It is a noble Fortification of the
Romans.
The Prospect is woody, and very pleasant; here-and-there lofty and steep Hillocks.
Roman
Coins, in great Plenty, have been found here, and in all the Country round. The Entrance is guarded with Six or Seven Ditches. On the North-side, in the fourth Ditch, is a never failing Spring, called
King
Arthur
's Well.
Over it they have dug up square Stones, Door-jambs with Hinges, and say there are subterraneous Vaults thereabout. The Church and Tower of
Cadbury
is small, but neatly built of Stone.
At
Wincaunton,
an Urn was lately found full of
Roman
Money. Half a Peck of the same Coin was discovered in inclosing Ground, toward
Beacon-ash,
a little above
Sutton
; as also
Patera's,
a Knife, and other Antiquities, now in Lord
Winchelsca
's Custody: in particular, at
Long-leat,
in Lord
Weymouth
's Library, a Piece of Lead weighing 50 Pounds, One Foot Nine Inches long, Two Inches thick, Three and an half broad, found in Lord
Fitzharding
's Grounds near
Bruton
in
Somersetshire,
was discovered by digging a Hole to set a Gate-post in, with a legible Inscription.
The Road from hence to
Glastenbury,
is over Rocks and Heads of Rivers. But that is alleviated by the many natural Curiosities such Places afford.
Kyneton
Village, for half a Mile together, is naturally paved with one smooth broad Rock, the whole Length of the Road; so that it looks like Ice.
Crossing the
Fosse
Road at
Lyteford,
you enter a flat moorish Country, full of artificial Cuts and Drains. The Ascent to the
Torr,
which overhangs the Town of
Glastenbury,
is very difficult. Upon a narrow Crest of the
Torr,
which is much the highest; the Abbot built a Church to St.
Michael,
of good square Stone. The Tower is left, tho' ruinous, and is an excellent Sea-mark. It probably cost more to raise the Stone to this Height, than to erect the Building. Half way up is a Spring: it is certainly higher than any Ground within Ten Miles of the Place. In the Times of Superstition this great Monastery held the first Place for Reputation of Sanctity.
The Inhabitants will have it, that King
Arthur
was buried here, and, as a Proof thereof, that his Coffin had been found in this Place; and also, that
Joseph
of
Arimathea
had been here, and that when he had fixed his Staff in the Ground, which was on
Christmas-day,
it immediately took Root, budded, put forth White-thorn Leaves, and the next Day was in full Blossom, white as a Sheet; and that the Plant is preserved, and blows every
Christmas-day,
as at first, to this very Time.
I believe the Miracle amounts to no more than this;
viz.
That a kind of White-thorn grows hereabout, which, in a mild Winter, puts forth some Blossom about
Christmas
; and I doubt not, but some of the same Kind may be found at other Places, if any Observations were made of it. But this Place is remarkable for many other marvellous Stories, recorded by the Monks, who formerly possessed it.
As to the Burial of King
Arthur,
Mr.
Camden
makes no doubt of it, and gives us from
Giraldus Cambrensis
an Account how King
Henry
II. caused Search to be made for his Tomb, and before the Workmen had dug Seven Feet deep, they came to a great Stone, having a Cross of Lead on the Inside of it, and the subsequent Letters or Inscription upon it, and in the following rude Character; which the said
Giraldus Cambrensis,
Mr.
Camden
says, was an Eye-witness of, as well as of a Coffin of hollow'd Oak, which they found by digging Nine Feet deeper than the Inscription, wherein were deposited the Bones of that great Prince. The Inscription is as follows:
But to leave these more disputable Points for Matters of greater Certainty: it is not doubted but King
Ina
built the Church of
Glastenbury,
as one of the most antient, so the most wealthy and magnificent, loaded with Revenues by the
Saxon,
and perhaps the
British
Monarchs. The Abbot lived in little less State than the Royal Donors, his Revenue amounting to 40,000
l.
annually. He could from the
Torr
see a vast Track of this rich Land in his own Possession, and Seven Parks well stored with Deer belonging to the Monastery. 'Tis walled round, and imbattled like a Town, a Mile in Compass.
When I was last at
Glastenbury,
there were magnificent Ruins; but, within a few Years, a Presbyterian Tenant had made more barbarous Havock there, than had been since the Dissolution; for every Week a Pillar, a Buttress, a Window-jamb, or an Angle of fine hewn Stone, was sold to the best Bidder. And they were actually stripping
St. Joseph
's Chapel for that Purpose, and the squared Stones were laid up by Lots in the Abbot's Kitchen. The rest goes to paving Yards and Stalls for Cattle, or to the Highway. So much Dread indeed have the People here of Founders Curses, that they are afraid to make use of the Materials for Dwelling-houses; and are full of Stories of sad Accidents and Judgments, that have fallen upon such as have; but venture it for the Highways, for a Town-house, and even for Barns and Stables; so that, as one observes, where few are so hardy as to apply them to their particular or personal Use, a publick Building shall be erected, where all come in for their Snack.
The Abbot's Lodging was a fine Stone Building, but could not content the just-mentioned Tenant, who pulled it down, and out of it built a new House, absurdly setting up the Arms and Cognizances of the great
Saxon
Kings and Princes, who were Founders, and of the Abbots, over his own Doors and Windows. Nothing is left intire, but the Kitchen, a judicious Piece of Architecture. But Tradition says, that this is but a modern Building; for the Story goes, That
Whiting,
the last Abbot, being dealt with by
Henry
VIII. and his Cormorants, for a Surrender, and bravely refusing to join in the Sacrilege, that Prince proceeded to Menaces, and told him, he
"would burn his Kitchen about his Ears."
To which he returned Answer,
"That he would build such an one as all the Timber in the Forest should not burn."
And accordingly, as 'tis said, built this in Defiance, which is all of firm Stone, Walls and Roof, having nothing combustible in it. But what neither Flattery nor Menaces could effect, Tyranny and Murder brought about. For the Abbot was hanged on
St. Michael
's Tower, just now mentioned, on the Top of the high Hill, called
The Torr,
thereby accomplishing a Prophecy, (as the Townsmen call it; but rather occasioning a Saying since spread abroad)
That a
Whiting
should swim over
Glastenbury Torr.
The Church was large and magnificent; the Walls of the Choir are standing, 25 Fathom long, and 12 broad. There is one Jamb at the East-end of the High Altar left.
Hereabout were buried King
Edgar,
and many of the
Saxon
Monarchs, whose noble Ashes ought to have protected the Whole.
Two Pillars of the great Middle Tower are left, next the Choir. On the North-side is
St. Mary
's Chapel, as they told me; the Roof beat down by Violence, and a mean wooden one in its Place, thatched with Stubble, to make it serve as a Stable. The Manger lies upon the Altar and Nich, where they put the Holy-Water.
St. Edgar
's Chapel is opposite to it; but there is not much left of it beside the Foundations. The present Work is 44 Paces long, 36 wide without. The Roof is chiefly wanting. Two little Turrets are at the Corners of the West-end, and Two more at the Interval of Four Windows from thence, which seem to indicate the Space of Ground the first Chapel was built on: the rest between it and the Church was a kind of Antechapel. Underneath was a Vault, now full of Water, the Floor of the Chapel being beaten down into it: it was wrought with great Stones.
Here was a capacious Receptacle of the Dead. They have taken up many leaden Coffins, and melted them into Cisterns.
The Roof of the Chapel was finely arched with Ribwork of Stone. The Sides of the Walls are full of small Pillars of
Sussex
Marble, as likewise the whole Church, which was a mean way of Ornamenting in those Times: they are mostly beaten down. Between them the Walls are painted with Pictures of Saints, as still easily seen. All the Walls are overgrown with Ivy, which is the only thing here in a flourishing Condition; every thing else presenting a most melancholy, tho' venerable Aspect. On the South-side the Cloisters was the great Hall.
The Townsmen bought the Stones of the Vaults underneath to build a sorry Market-house, not discerning the Benefit accruing to the Town from the great Concourse of Strangers purposely to see this Abbey, which is now its greatest Trade, as formerly its only Support: for 'tis in a most miserable decaying Condition, as wholly cut off from the large Revenues spent among them.
There are many other Foundations of the Buildings left in the great Area; but in the present Hands will soon be rooted up, and the very Footsteps of them effaced, which so many Ages had been erecting.
The Abbot's Hall, I have been told, was curiously wainscotted with Oak, and painted with Coats of Arms in every Panel. The Morter of these Buildings is very good, and great Rocks of the Roof of the Church lie upon the Ground, chiefly consisting of Rubble-stone untouched by the fanatical Destroyers, who chiefly work on the hewn Stone of the Outside, till a whole Wall falls, when undermined a little.
Throughout the Town are the tattered Remains of Doors, Windows, Bases, Capitals of Pillars,
&c.
brought from the Abbey, and put into every poor Cottage.
In the Town are Two Churches; the upper a handsome Fabrick with a fine Tower of good Design, adorned with Figures in Niches. The
George
Inn is an old Stone Building, called
the Abbot's Inn,
where chiefly the Pilgrims were lodged, who came strolling hither, and idling their Time away for Sanctity. A Coat of Arms of the Kings of
England,
supported by a Lion and a Bull, is over the Gate, with many Crosses. There was a Bed of large Timber, with imbossed gilt Panels, which seemed to have been the Abbot's.
Four Miles from
Glastenbury,
lies the little City of
Wells,
where is one of the neatest Cathedrals in
England
; particularly the West Front of it, which is a complete Draught of Imagery, as well as very antient.
The Close, or Part of the City where the Bishop's Palace is, is very properly called so; for it is walled in, and locked up like a little Fortification, and has a Ditch round it. The dignified Clergy live in the Inside of it, and the Prebendaries and Canons have very agreeable Dwellings. Here are no less than 27 Prebendaries, and 19 Canons, besides a Dean, a Chancellor, a Precentor, and Three Archdeacons; a Number which very few Cathedrals in
England
have besides.
The County is the Diocese, and contains 388 Parishes, and the Archdeaconries are of
Wells, Bath,
and
Taunton.
The City lies just at the Foot of the Mountains called
Mendip-hills,
and is built on a stony Foundation. Its Manufacture is chiefly of Stockens, as has been said; 'tis well-built, and populous.
Near this City, and just under the Hills, is the famous
Wokey Hole,
the chief Curiosity of which is frequently found in all such subterraneous Caverns; that the Water, dropping from the Roof of the Vault, petrifies and hangs in long Pieces like Icicles, as if it would, in Time, turn into a Column to support the Arch.
Not far from hence is
Sedgmore,
a watry splashy Place, and infamous for the Defeat of the Duke of
Monmouth.
In the low Country, on the other Side
Mendip
Hills, lies
Chedder,
a Village pleasantly situated under the very Ridge of the Mountains: before the Village is a large Green, or Common, on which all the Cows belonging to the Town feed: the Ground is exceeding rich, and as the Inhabitants are Cow-keepers, they take care to maintain the Goodness of the Soil, by agreeing to lay on large Quantities of Dung for manuring and inriching the Land.
Several Persons frequently, here mix their Milk together, which often weighs a hundred Weight, sometimes more; and is so excellent, that it is often sold from Six-pence to Eight-pence
per
Pound, when the
Cheshire
Cheese is sold but from Two-pence to Two-pence Half-penny.
Here is a deep frightful Chasm in the Mountain, in the Hollow of which the Road goes toward
Bristol
; and out of the same Hollow springs a little Stream, which is so rapid, that it is said to drive 12 Mills within a Quarter of a Mile of the Spring; but it must be supposed to fetch some winding Reaches in the Way; otherwise there would not be room for 12 Mills to stand, and have a sufficient Head of Water to each, within so small a Space of Ground. The Water of this Spring grows quickly into a River, and runs down into the Marshes, and joins another little River called
Axe,
about
Axbridge,
and thence into the
Bristol
Chanel, or
Severn
Sea.
I must now turn East, and South-east; for I resolved not to go up the Hills of
Mendip
at all, this Journey; leaving that Part to another Tour, when I shall give an Account of these Mountains, as also of the Cities of
Bath
and
Bristol,
to which they are very near, in one Letter.
I come now to that Part of the County which joins to
Wiltshire,
which I reserved in particular to this Place, in order to give some Account of the Broad-cloth Manufacture, which I several times mentioned before, and which is carried on here, to such a Degree, as to deserve a Place in all the Descriptions or Histories which shall be given of this Country.
As the East and South Parts of
Wiltshire
are all hilly, spreading themselves far and wide in Plains, and grassy Downs, for breeding and feeding vast Flocks of Sheep; and as the West and North Parts of
Somersetshire
are, on the contrary, low and marshy, or moorish, for feeding and breeding of Black Cattle and Horses, or for Lead Mines,
&c.
so all the South-west Part of
Wiltshire,
and the East Part of
Somersetshire,
are low and flat, being a rich, inclosed Country, full of Rivers and Towns, and infinitely populous, insomuch that some of the Market-towns are equal to Cities in Bigness, and superior to many of them in Numbers of People.
This low flat Country contains Part of the Three Counties, of
Somerset, Wilts,
and
Gloucester
; and that the Extent of it may be the easier understood by those who know any thing of the Situation of the Country, it reaches from
Cirencester
in the North, to
Sherburn
on the Edge of
Dorsetshire
South, and from the
Devizes
East, to
Bristol
West, which may take in about 50 Miles in Length where longest, and 20 in Breadth where narrowest.
In this Extent of Country, we have the following Market-towns, which are principally imployed in the Clothing Trade, that is to say, in that Part of it, which I am now speaking of, namely, fine Medley, or mixed Cloths, such as are usually worn in
England
by the better Sort of People; and also, exported in great Quantities to
Holland, Hamburgh, Sweden, Denmark, Spain, Italy,
&c. The principal Clothing Towns in this Part of the Country, are these,
Somersetshire,
Frome, Pentford, Philip's-Norton, Bruton, Shepton-Mallet, Castle-Carey,
and
Wincaunton.
Wiltshire,
Malmsbury, Castlecomb, Chippenham, Caln, Devizes, Bradford, Trubridge, Westbury, Warminster, Mere.
Dorsetshire,
Gillingham, Shaftsbury, Bemister,
and
Bere, Sturminster, Shireborn.
Gloucestershire,
Cirencester, Tetbury, Marshfield, Minchinghampton,
and
Fairford.
These Towns, as they stand thin, and at considerable Distance from one another, (for, except the Two Towns of
Bradford
and
Trubridge,
the others stand at an unusual Distance) are interspersed with a very great Number of Villages, Hamlets, and scattered Houses, in which, generally speaking, the spinning Work of all this Manufacture is performed by the poor People; the Master Clothiers, who generally live in the greater Towns, sending out the Wool weekly to their Houses, by their Servants and Horses, and at the same time bringing back the Yarn that they have spun and finished, which then is fitted for the Loom.
The increasing and flourishing Circumstances of this Trade are happily visible by the great Concourse of People to, and Increase of Buildings and Inhabitants in, these principal Clothing Towns, where this Trade is carried on, and in the Wealth of the Clothiers. The Town of
Frome,
or, as it is written in our Maps,
Frome-Sellwood,
is a Specimen of this, which is so prodigiously increased within these last 30 or 40 Years, that they have built a new Church, and so many new Streets of Houses, and these Houses are so full of Inhabitants, that
Frome
is now reckoned to have more Inhabitants in it, than the City of
Bath
; and some say, than
Salisbury
; and if their Trade continues to increase in like manner for a few Years more, it is very likely to become one of the greatest and wealthiest inland Towns in
England.
Its Trade is wholly Clothing, and the Cloths they make are, generally speaking, all convey'd to
London:
where
Blackwell-hall
is their Market; and, if we may believe common Fame, there are above 10,000 People in
Frome
now, more than lived in it 30 Years ago; and yet it was a considerable Town then.
Here are also several large Meeting-houses, as well as Churches, as there are, generally, in all the manufacturing trading Towns in
England,
especially in the Western Counties.
The
Devizes
is, next to
Frome,
a large and important Town, and full of wealthy Clothiers; but it has lately run pretty much into the Drugget-making Trade; a Business, which has made some Invasion upon that of the Broad-cloth, great Quantities of Druggets being worn in, as well as exported from
England,
instead of Broad-cloth; but this is much the same as to the Trade still; for since it is all a Woolen Manufacture, and the Druggets may properly be called Cloth, tho' narrow, and of a different Make, so the Makers are all called Clothiers.
The River
Avon,
a noble and large fresh River, branching itself into many Parts, and receiving almost all the Rivers on that Side of the Hills, waters this whole fruitful Vale; and the Water of this River seems particularly qualified for dying the best Colours, and for Fulling and Dressing the Cloth, so that the Clothiers generally plant themselves upon this River, but especially the Dyers, as at
Trubridge
and
Bradford,
which are the Two most eminent Clothing Towns in that Part of the Vale, for the Making fine
Spanish
Cloths, and for the nicest Mixtures.
From these Towns, South to
Westbury
and
Warminster,
the same Trade continues, and the finest Medley
Spanish
Cloths in the whole World are made in this Part. They told me at
Bradford,
that it was no extraordinary thing to have Clothiers thereabout worth from 10,000 to 40,000
l.
a Man; and many of the Gentry in those Counties have been originally raised from this truly noble Manufacture.
If I may speak here from the Authority of the antient Inhabitants of the Place, who have been curious Observers upon this Subject, the Country which I have now described, as principally imployed in, and maintained by this Prodigy of a Trade, contains 2,330,000 Acres of Land, and has in it 788 Parishes, and 374,000 People. It is true, that this is all Guesswork; but I must confess myself very willing to believe, that the Reckoning is far short of the Account; for this Part is exceeding large and populous.
It may be worth Inquiry, how the Manufacturers in so vast a Consumption of the Wool, as such a Trade must take up, can be supplied with Wool for their Trade; and indeed it would be something strange, if the Answer were not at hand.
1. We may reasonably conclude, that this Manufacture was at first seated in this County, or, as we may say, originally planted itself here, because of the infinite Numbers of Sheep, which were always upon the Downs and Plains of
Dorset, Wilts,
and
Hampshire,
all adjoining. This, no doubt, induced the first Planters of the Clothing Manufacture to make Choice of this delightful Vale in the Neighbourhood of those Plains, which afforded such immense Funds of Wool for the carrying on their Works. Thus the Manufacture of white Cloth was planted in
Stroud-water
in
Gloucestershire,
for the sake of the excellent Water there for the Dying Scarlets, and all Colours that are dyed in Grain, which are better done there, than in any other Place of
England,
some Towns near
London
excepted. Hence therefore we first observe, they are supplied yearly with the Fleeces of Two or Three Millions of Sheep.
2. But as the Number of Sheep fed on these Downs is lessened, rather than increased, because of so many thousand Acres of the Carpet Ground being of late Years converted into Tillage, and sowed with
This Alteration has made
Warminster,
a Market-town on the Edge of
Somersetshire,
the greatest Market for Wheat in
England,
where none of it is bought to send to
London.
Wheat; and at the same time the Manufacture prodigiously increasing; the Manufacturers applied to other Parts for a Supply, and hence began the Influx of North Country Wool from the Counties of
Northampton, Leicester
and
Lincoln,
the Centre and Markets of which Trade are about
Tetbury
and
Cirencester,
where several hundred Packs are sold every Week, to supply this prodigious Consumption.
3. From
London
they have great Quantities of Wool, which is generally called
Kentish
Wool, in the Fleece, which is brought up from thence by the Farmers, since the late severe Acts against their Selling it within a certain Number of Miles of the Sea; also Fell-wool for the Combers, bought of the Wool-staplers in
Barnaby-street,
and sent back by the Carriers which bring up the Cloths to Market.
4. They have also, sometimes, large Quantities of
Irish
Wool by the way of
Bristol,
or of
Minehead
in
Somersetshire
; but this is uncertain, and only on extraordinary Occasions. I omit the
Spanish
Wool, as being an Article by itself.
Thus, as those who see the almost countless Numbers of Sheep on the Downs and Plains, and the great Quantities of Wool brought to the Markets of
Tetbury,
and other Towns, as well as what are sent down from
London
into this single Vale, would wonder how it was possible so much Wool could be consumed, manufactured, and wrought up; so, on the other hand, those that see what Numbers of People are imployed, and what vast Quantities of Goods are made, in this Part of
England,
would wonder how the Nation should be able to supply them with Wool.
And yet, notwithstanding the whole Country is thus busy'd in the Broad-cloth Manufacture, I must not omit to mention, that here is a very great Application to another Branch or two of Trade,
viz.
The supplying the City of
London
with Provisions: Tho' it is true, that the general Imployment of the People in all this County, is in the Woollen Manufacture; yet, as the Spinning is generally the Work of the Women and Children, and the Land is here exceeding rich and fertile, so it cannot be supposed, but that here are Farmers in great Numbers, whose Business it is to cultivate the Land, and supply the rest of the Inhabitants with Provisions; and this they do so well, that notwithstanding the County is exceeding populous, yet Provisions of all Sorts are cheap, the Quantity very great, and a considerable Overplus sent every Day to
London.
All the lower Part of this County, and also of
Gloucestershire
adjoining, is full of large feeding Farms, which we call Dairies; and the Cheese they make is excellent, and is eaten newer than that from
Cheshire.
Of this a vast Quantity is every Week sent up to
London,
where, tho' it is called
Gloucestershire
Cheese, yet the greatest Part of it comes from
Wiltshire
; the
Gloucestershire
Cheese being more generally carried to
Bristol
and
Bath,
where a very great Quantity is consumed, as well by the Inhabitants of these two populous Cities, as in Exportation to our
West-India
Colonies, and other Places; whereas this
Wiltshire
Cheese is carried to the River of
Thames,
which runs thro' Part of the County, by Land-carriage, and so by Barges to
London.
Again, in the Spring of the Year, they make a vast Quantity of that we call Green or New Cheese, which is a thin and very soft Cheese, resembling Cream Cheeses, but somewhat thicker. These are so universally liked in
London,
that all the low rich Lands of this County are hardly enough to supply the Market; but then this holds for little more than the Two first Summer Months of the Year.
Besides this, the Farmers in
Wiltshire,
and the Part of
Gloucestershire
adjoining, send a very great Quantity of Bacon up to
London,
which is esteemed the best Bacon in
England, Hampshire
only excepted. This Bacon is raised here, by their great Dairies, as the Hogs are fed with the vast Quantities of Whey, and skimmed Milk, which the Farmers must otherwise have thrown away.
But this is not all; for as the North Part of
Wiltshire,
as well the Downs as the Vales, border upon the River
Thames,
and in some Places come up even to the Banks of it, so most of that Part of the County being arable Land, they sow a very great Quantity of Barley, which is carried to the Markets at
Abingdon,
at
Faringdon,
and such Places, where it is made into Malt, and carried to
London.
This imploys all the Hill-country from above
Malmsbury
to
Marlborough,
and on the Side of the Vale of
White-horse,
as 'tis called, which is in
Berkshire,
and the Hills adjoining; a Track of fertile Ground, which furnishes a prodigious Quantity of Barley.
Thus
Wiltshire
helps to supply
London
with Cheese, Bacon, and Malt, Three very considerable Articles, besides that vast Manufacture of fine
Spanish
Cloths, of which I have said so much; and I may without Partiality say, that it is thereby rendered one of the most important Counties in
England
to the publick Wealth of the Kingdom. The bare Product is in itself prodigiously great; the Downs are an inexhausted Store-house of Wool, and of Corn; and the Valley, or low Part of it, is the like for Cheese and Bacon.
One Thing here is worth while to mention, for the Observation of those Counties in
England,
where they are not yet arrived to that Perfection in Husbandry, as in this County; and I have purposely reserved it to this Place; and that is, The Downs or Plains, which tho' generally called
Salisbury Plain,
yet extend themselves into the Counties of
Southampton, Wilts,
and
Dorset,
were formerly wholly taken up with Sheep, as being thought incapable of producing Grain, but now are made to yield most plentiful Crops, by folding their Sheep upon the plough'd Lands, removing the Fold every Night to a fresh Place, till the whole Fallow has been folded on. This alone has made these Lands, which in themselves are poor, and, in some Places, so shallow as that the Earth is not six Inches deep over the solid Chalk, able to bear as good Wheat, as any of the richer Lands in the Vales, tho' not altogether in such great Quantities: And were it not for this Improvement, the Product would hardly compensate the Ploughman's Labour; for many of these Lands lie up such high Hills, so remote from the Farmers Houses, which are always in the Valleys, that it would be very difficult to carry up their Dung to manure them.
If this way of folding Sheep upon the Fallows and ploughed Lands were practised in some other Parts of
Britain,
and especially in
Scotland,
it would effectually improve the waste Lands, which now are useless and uncultivated, and turn both Sheep and Lands to a better Account than was ever yet known among them. In
Wiltshire
it appears to be so, very significantly; for if a Farmer has a Thousand Sheep, and no Fallows to fold them on, his Neighbours will give him Ten Shillings a Night for every Thousand.
But as I have not mentioned these Clothing Towns other than as they contribute to that Trade, I shall now proceed to say something of the Towns themselves, except those in
Gloucestershire
; of which I shall speak in my next Letter, as I fall down Westward.
Shipton-Mallet, Castle Carey, Wincaunton,
and
Bruton,
lie to the Southward of
Wells,
and have nothing remarkable in them except the last, which lies on the River
Brews.
It has a fair Church, a good Free-school, and a stately Alms-house, the Ruins of a Priory, and beside the Clothing-trade, is famous for Stockens.
Frome,
and
Philips Norton,
lie East of
Somersetshire,
upon the Borders of
Wilts.
The first is near the Forest of
Selwood,
and I have already mentioned its prodigious Increase of late Years. The last is a very good Market-town, and has Two annual Fairs, one reputed, for a One-day Fair, as great as any in
England.
Bensford
is a small Market-town, and lies North-west toward
Bristol.
Malmsbury
is a very antient Town, and, 'tis said, was built by a
British
Prince, called
Caer Bladdon.
It was formerly defended by Walls, and a large strong Castle, which was razed afterward, to inlarge the Abbey, which was very famous, and the greatest in
Wiltshire:
the Abbot sat in Parliament. King
Athelstane
was buried here, and they still shew his Tomb here. Vast Piles of Buildings were pulled down at the Dissolution, but the Church of the Abbey was saved, a great Part of which still remains, and is used as the Parish Church. It is a Corporation governed by a
Justice,
who is an annual Magistrate, and called
The Alderman.
It has a good Market weekly. The Town is neat, and lies on the River
Avon.
It is also famous for the Birth-place of
William
of
Malmsbury,
the Historian; and of that great Scholar, Philosopher, and Mathematician,
Hobbes
; and of divers other very great and remarkable Men.
Near this Town, Southward, on the same River, lies the Village of
Dantsey,
which, tho' but an obscure Place, has given Title of Honour to many eminent Persons, and among the rest, to
Henry Danvers,
created Baron of this Place by King
James
I. tho' afterwards made Earl of
Danby.
He had distinguished himself in Queen
Elizabeth
's
Irish
Wars, was as good as great, and died with Glory; but his Brother and Heir, having sat, ungratefully, a Judge on that very King who made his Brother Earl, was, at the Restoration, attainted of High Treason; and this his Manor of
Dantsey
given to
James
then Duke of
York,
who settled it in Dowry on his second Consort. On his Abdication, it became a second time forfeited, and King
William
conferred it on
Charles
Lord
Mordaunt,
late Earl of
Peterborough
and
Monmouth,
in whose Family it still remains. But as there are some other Things more than ordinarily particular, relating to this Manor, I shall inlarge a little upon it.
The whole Parish of
Dantsey
consists of this Manor only, and not a Foot of Ground in it belongs to any other Person: it is altogether Pasture, and indeed very rich. The Inhabitants, who are all Tenants of the Manor, make most excellent Cheese, not at all inferior to that of
Chedder,
which is the only Commodity in the Place; for the late Lord would not permit the Grounds to be ploughed up; and, I believe, there is not an Acre in the Parish of arable Land, tho' the Tenants have offered a considerable Advance of Rent, for Liberty to break up the Ground, which indeed seems to want it, and would be much better'd by the Plough; nor would his Lordship, for some Years before his Death, renew a Life upon it, either by Lease or Copyhold, except as many of the last, as would keep up the Homage, and the Rights of the Manor: and the Reason of this was, not only to get a clear Rack-rent Estate in it, but to prevent the Cheats and Impositions which the Copyhold Tenants of the Manor put upon their Lord; for as every Widow has her Life in her Husband's Copyhold after his Death, if she continues sole and continent, 'tis a very common thing there for an old Man, on his Death-bed, to marry a young Woman, who privately contracts to give Part of the Profits of the Copyhold, or some Consideration for it, to the Husband's Relations, and not seldom selects, for a Bedfellow for herself, one of her favourite Men-servants.
The Abuse which accrued from granting Leases on Lives is this, That whereas a Person takes a Lease for Three Lives,
viz.
his own, his Wife's, and his Son
John
's; to defraud the Lord of the Manor, he names all his Sons
John
; so that, as long as any of the Sons live,
John
in the Lease never dies.
By these Frauds, the Earl, who was none of the best Oeconomists, and lived remote from this Place, suffered considerably, tho' he could not find out how; but frequently complained, That his Lessees, and his Copyhold-Widows, were very long lived; and, in an humorous way, used to recommend his Manor of
Dantsey
to all such as were apprehensive of dying.
As all in the Parish were his Tenants, and had an Interest in the Fraud, they combined against him, so that he could get no Intelligence of it: and tho' his Lordship enjoyed the Manor ever since the Revolution, yet, by reason of its being then full estated, that is, all let out upon Lives then actually subsisting, and continued by the above-mentioned Frauds, his Lordship received no great Benefit out of it till some few Years before his Death; when he came to a Resolution not to renew, tho', when all the Lives drop in, this Manor will, at a Rack-rent, amount to at least 3000
l.
a Year.
There is a large old Mansion-house here, lying just on the River, with Gardens formed after the Manner of those at
Parsons-green
; but it is not a kindly Place for ripening Fruit, and the Grounds lie very low and splashy, being all of a stiff Clay, and yet very good Pasture. Here is also a fine Park well timber'd, but without Deer. His Lordship had once a Design to improve this Mansion-house and Estate, and resided here in 1705, when he was called to Court, and sent to command the Queen's Forces in
Spain,
where his Conduct, and great Services to his Country, are too well known to need mentioning here.
Tho' this Place is often overflowed with Water, yet there is none good, either for Brewing or Washing, or any Spring of sweet Water. Here is a Spring of a chalybeat Kind, which would turn to good Account, were it not in such a distant, and an almost inaccessible Part of the Country, occasioned by bad Roads, which were a great Protection to the Inhabitants in the late Civil Wars, who were never visited by either Party; but injoyed an easy and uninterrupted Repose, whlist their Neighbours, on all Sides, were involved in the Calamities of that unnatural War.
Here is likewise a good neat Church, with one of the best-built, high, square Towers I ever saw, raised at the Expence of one of the Lords of
Dantsey,
probably the afore-mentioned
Henry,
who lies buried here under a very large magnificent Tomb. Here likewise is interred Lieutenant-General
Lewis Mordaunt,
a Brother of the late Earl, a Gentleman noted for his great Wit, Humour, and polite Conversation, as indeed all his Brothers were, as well as his Lordship.
Castlecomb
is a Village of small Account.
Chippenham
is a corporate, good Market-town, likewise on the River
Avon,
over which it has a Bridge of Sixteen Arches, famous for the Residence and Resort of many of the West
Saxon
Kings, particularly
Alfred.
Here is a very magnificent Church; and near this Place, formerly, was a famous Forest.
Bradford
is a Market-town, and has a Bridge over the
Avon.
'Tis well-built of Stone, and lies in the Side of a Hill.
Trubridge
is an antient Market-town, and had formerly a Castle of Seven Towers, but long since destroyed. The Court of the Duchy of
Lancaster,
for this County, is annually held here.
Westbury
is a little Borough Market-town, but was formerly of great Note. Some Quantity of
Roman
Coins have been found here.
Warminster
is noted, as I have said, for the prodigious Quantity of Corn, which is sold in it every Market-day. Upon the Downs, near this Town, are two antient Camps, supposed to be
Danish.
It is observable, That these Five last Towns belonged antiently to the Family of the
Hungerfords,
which in King
Edward
IV.'s Reign came by Marriage to the Lord
Hastings,
who being executed in
Richard
III.'s Time, this vast Estate was given by that King to
Howard,
Duke of
Norfolk,
first Earl-Marshal of that Family, in
England.
Near
Warminster
is the famous Forest of
Selwood,
called by the antient
Britons, Coedmaur,
i. e.
Greatwood.
It is 15 Miles in Length, and very thick of Wood.
Mere,
which in the old
Saxon
signifys
Boundary,
as this Place seems to be on the Borders of
Wilts, Somerset,
and
Dorset,
is but a Village, and yet gives Name to the Hundred where it stands. It has neither Fair nor Market in it; but it had, antiently, a Castle. Not far from this Place is an old
Danish
Camp called
Whiteshole-hill.
Sir
Francis Cotton,
who flourished in the Reign of King
James,
and afterwards of
Charles
I. was born here.
A little South-east of
Mere
lies
Hindon,
a small Borough and Market-town. And North-east of it stands
Heightsbury,
an inconsiderable Town; but noted formerly for an Hospital.
Lavington
is also a little more North; a very indifferent Market-town.
The
Devizes
is excellently situated, about Two Miles from the Bottom of the Hills, which keep off the Eastern Winds, and in a rich Soil. Under the Hill, at
Runway,
is an excellent Spring, which the Inhabitants have not yet found Means to convey thither, tho' it runs but a little way off the Town, where they want Water. It is a very large old Town, consisting chiefly of Two long parallel Streets, the Houses mostly of Timber, but of a very good Model. The Inhabitants value themselves for being Tenants to the King, and for one of the best weekly Markets in
England.
The Castle was originally
Roman,
judiciously seated upon a natural Fortification; but in After-times, made in a manner impregnable by
Roger,
a Bishop of
Salisbury,
tho' now it suffers daily by Peoples taking away the Materials. Here are Two Churches. The Choir of
St. Mary's
is of a very old Model, as are the Steeple, Choir, and both Wings of
St. John's,
to which Additions have been made; and new wide Windows with pointed Arches, in the room of the antient, narrow, semicircular ones.
Just out of Town is a pretty Plain called
the Green,
with another handsome Church and Steeple, Suburbs to the old Town. Here
William Cadby,
a Gardener, dug up his Collection of Gods, which he carried about for a Shew. They were found in a Garden in a Cavity inclosed with
Roman
Brick. The
Venus
is of an excellent Design; and the
Vestal Virgin,
as they call it, a Fragment of
Corinthian
Brass, and of very curious Workmanship.
Vulcan
is as lame as if made at a Forge. He had also several Coins found thereabouts, and a Brass
Roman
Key, which my Lord
Winchelsea
bought.
Roman
Antiquities are discovered here every Day. The same Nobleman has a Brass
Probus
; on the Reverse
Victoria Germ.
with a Trophy. A great Number of such Reliques is to be met with all round the Country.
Calne
is a little Town, situate on a stony Hill, and very antient, and is supposed to have been one of the Seats of the
West-Saxon
Kings. It has a neat Church, and a good weekly Market. After a great Rain, in
November
1725, the Waters rose so very high here, on a sudden, that they overflow'd the Town, damaged a great Quantity of Goods, drowned Two Men in the Street, and carried off a Cask of Oil of 100 Gallons, which could not be found for several Days after. A great Parcel of
Roman
Coins were dug up here formerly. Here was, likewise, antiently an Hospital of
Black Canons.
I am now come into the Road to
Marlborough:
On the Downs, about Two or Three Miles from the Town, are abundance of loose Stones, lying scattered about the Plain, some whereof are very large, and appear to be of the same Kind with those of
Stone-henge,
and some larger: they are called by the Country People, the
Grey Weathers
; and it must be confessed, that they look not unlike Sheep straggling upon the Downs, on a transient and distant View, as Travellers pass. These
Grey Weathers,
on a more curious Inspection, are found to be a Sort of white Marble, and lie upon the Surface of the Ground in infinite Numbers, and of all Dimensions. They are loose, detached from any Rock, and, as Dr.
Stukeley
thinks, lay there ever since the Creation, being solid Parts thrown out to the Surface of the fluid Globe, when its Rotation was first impressed.
Marlborough,
so called from its Hills of Chalk, which antiently was called
Marle.
It is the
Cunetia
(from
Kenet
) of the
Romans
; but from the coming of the
Saxons
to the Conquest, there is no Mention of it. It is governed by a Mayor, Aldermen, and Burgesses, and is well-built. It consists chiefly of One broad and strait Street. To the South are some Relicks of a Priory; the Gate-house is still remaining. On the North, the Chapel of another Religious House remains, now turned into a Dwelling-house. The Seat of my Lord
Hertford
was the Scite of the
Roman Costrum
; for there they find Foundations, and
Roman
Coins; and towards the River, without the Garden-walls, one Angle of it very manifestly remains; and the Rampart
d Ditch intire. The Road going over the Bridge cuts it off from the present Castle. The Ditch is still 20 Feet wide in some Parts. The Mount, so much noted, was the Keep of the Castle; it is now converted into a pretty spiral Walk, on the Top of which is an octagonal Summer-house, from whence you have a pleasant View over the Town and County. The Town has at present a pretty good Shop-keeping Trade, but not much of the manufacturing Part. The River
Kennet,
some Years ago made navigable by Act of Parliament, rises just by this Town; from whence running to
Hungerford
and
Newbury,
it becomes a large Stream; and passing by
Reading,
runs into the
Thames
near that Town. This River is famous for Crayfish, which they help Travellers to at
Newbury
; but they seldom want for Price.
At
Abury,
near
Marlborough
Downs, in the Way to
Bath,
are to be seen the stupendous Remains of a
Druids
Temple, being a Collection of monstrous Stones of the like Nature with those of
Stone-henge,
and brought together from the Downs for the same religious Purposes, as Dr.
Stukeley
makes no Question.
On the Hills on this Side the
Devizes
is
Roundway Down,
where the King's Forces, under Prince
Maurice,
but owing chiefly to the Lord
Wilmot,
beat and intirely routed the famous Sir
William Waller,
in the Civil Wars; from whence the Place is called by some,
Run-away Down,
to this Day.
A little nearer towards
Marlborough
is
St. Ann's Hill,
where, notwithstanding several high Hills between, and the Distance of Twenty-two Miles, or more, is a fair View of
Salisbury
Steeple, or Spire, which is deem'd the highest in
England.
At
Badmington
in
Wiltshire
have been found
Nine Caves
all in a Row, but of different Dimensions, the least of them Four Feet wide, some Nine or Ten Feet long, Two long Stones being set upon the Sides, and the Top cover'd with broad Stones. Spurs, Pieces of Armour, and the like, have been found in these
Caves
; which gives Ground to believe, that they were Tombs of some antient Warriors,
Romans, Saxons,
or
Danes.
In our Way from
Marlborough
to
Newbury,
we mounted a chalky Hill, (of which Sort is much of the Soil of
Wilts
) on the Top of which we enter'd into
Savernack
Forest, belonging to the R
ght Hon. the Lord
Bruce,
and is almost the only privileged Ground of Hunting, of that Denomination, possess'd by a Subject. It is in Circumference about Twelve Miles, plentifully stock'd with Deer of a large Size, and render'd very pleasant and delightful by the many Walks and Vistas lately cut and levell'd through the several Coppices and Woods with which it abounds. Eight of these Vistas meet like so many Rays of a Star, in a Point near the Middle of the Forest, where his Lordship has prepared and cleared the Ground for erecting an Octagon Tower, whose Sides will be correspondent to the Vistas, thro' one of which you will have a View of his Lordship's Seat at about Two Miles Distance, called
Tottenham,
from a Park of that Name, in which it is situate, contiguous to the Forest.
It is a stately Edifice, newly erected on the same Spot of Ground where stood an antient Palace, destroyed by Fire, of the Marquis of
Hereford,
so justly celebrated for his steady Adherence, and powerful Assistance, to the Royal Cause, during the whole Course of the Civil Wars, from whom his Lordship is descended, by his Mother the Lady
Elizabeth,
Sister and Niece to the Two last Dukes of
Somerset,
of the elder Line.
To give you some Idea of the Grandeur and Magnificence of the Structure, it will be sufficient to observe, that it was begun, carried on and finish'd, after the Model, and under the Direction, of our modern
Vitruvius,
the Earl of
Burlington,
who, to the Strength and Convenience of the
English
Architecture, has added the Elegance and Politeness of the
Italian
Taste.
The House has Four Towers, and Four Fronts, each of them diversly beautified and adorned; to which are now added Four Wings, wherein are Rooms of State, a noble and capacious Room for a Library, containing a judicious and large Collection of several Thousand Books in all Languages, but especially the modern.
The Beauty and Delightfulness of the Buildings are much augmented by the large Canals, the spacious and well-planted Walks which surround it, one of which, leading to the
London
Road, extends Two Miles in Length.
About the same Distance from hence, on the opposite Side, are to be seen the Remains of a large House, the Seat of Sir
John Seymour,
Father of the unfortunate Protector, call'd
Wolf-Hall,
of which no more is standing than suffices for a Farm-house. Here King
Henry
VIII. as, Tradition goes, celebrated his Nuptials with the Lady
Jane Seymour,
and kept his Wedding-dinner, in a very large Barn, hung with Tapestry on the Occasion; for Confirmation of which they shew you, in the Walls thereof, some Tenter-hooks, with small Pieces of Tapestry fasten'd to them; and between this Place and
Tottenham
th
re is a Walk, with old Trees on each Side, still known by the Name of King
Harry
's Walk.
From hence, continuing our Course Easterly, we came to a Borough-town, called
Great Bedwin,
which Dr.
Stukeley
takes to be the
Leucomagus
of
Ravennas.
It is an old Corporation, and gave Birth to the famous Dr.
T. Willis,
the Ornament of
English
Physicians.
Castle Copse,
half a Mile from the Town South East, was probably the
Roman
Castle; and
Havisdike,
a Camp of that People. Some time since there was in the East Window of the Church, the Picture of a Priest, with Two Crutches, a Cup in his Hand, and a Can standing by him, with an Inscription in old
English
Capitals, but in the Language obsolete
French,
which in
English
is this:
I am
Peris
call'd, Vicar of this Church,
Upon my Crutches leaning just in this wise;
My Pouch in my Fist, and I'll drink without Guile,
My Pot at my Back, set after the new Mode.
To my Pot and my Pouch I will have Justice done;
For none shall drink without putting in as much again.
The Church is large and capacious, in which are some antient Monuments, particularly one of a
Knight-Templar,
call'd
Adam of Scott,
from a Manor of that Name in the Parish, with an Inscription not legible, and another above-mentioned of Sir
John Seymour,
Father of the Protector, wherein we have an Account of the Names of all his Children, with their several Inter-marriages and Deaths The Church is very strongly built with Flint, and a Cement near as hard as themselves, in form of a Cross, in the Centre of which is erected a high Tower, containing a good Ring of Six very musical Bells.
Moving hence towards the North-east a little, we cross'd the much fam'd
Wansdyke,
a Work of prodigious Labour and Expence, and concluded by most Writers to be a Boundary of one of the Kingdoms of the
Heptarchy,
probably that of the
West Saxons,
before its Inlargement by incroaching on other Kingdoms. It may be traced from near
Bath,
all over the Downs, to this Place, where it turns its Course towards the Southern Coasts: it is supposed, by some, to derive its Name from
Woden,
one of the
Saxon
Deities.
Soon after we mounted a small Hill, of easy Ascent, on the Summit of which was erected, as Historians inform us, a fortified Place, the Residence of
Cissa,
a Viceroy of one of the
South-Saxon
Kings, from whom it derives its Denomination of
Chisbury,
or
Cisbury,
who also built
Chichester,
for the Resort of his People, as he did this for the Repose of himself. It seems to have been strongly fortified, being surrounded with a double Ditch or Mote, of considerable Depth and Breadth, and full of Water: since which time there has been a Religious House here, the Chapel of which is still remaining, but converted into a Barn.
From hence we returned to the great
London
Road, and soon arrived at a Village called
Froxfield,
about Seven Miles from
Marlborough,
in which is a handsome and well-endow'd Alms-house, founded by
Sarah
Duchess Dowager of
Somerset,
Relict of
John
the last Duke of the elder Branch of the noble Family of
Seymours,
descended from the great Duke of
Somerset,
Protector of the King and Kingdom, during the Minority of King
Edward
VI. This Lady bequeath'd by her Will above 2000
l.
for the Building and Furniture of this Alms-house, and devised several Manors, Messuages, and Farms, for the Maintenance of Thirty poor Widows, not haveing 20
l. per Ann
to subsist upon; one Half of which are Widows of Clergymen, and the other of Laymen, giving a Preference to those of the last Sort, who live on the Manors so devised by her. She left in her Will particular Directions for the Form, Dimensions, and Scite of the Structure, and for the Manner of electing, ruling, and providing for the Widows, which her Executors, especially Sir
William Gregory,
who chiefly took upon him the Execution of the Trust, punctually observ'd.
The Building is neat and strong, in the Form of a Quadrangle, having one Front, and a Court before it facing the Road. It contains Thirty Groundrooms, and as many Chambers, one of each Sort being allowed to every Widow, for her Apartment, with an Area or Bed in a Garden, on the North Part of the Building, inclosed with a Brick-wall.
In the midst of the Quadrangle is built a handsome and convenient Chapel, furnished with a Communion-Table, Pulpit, Desk, Pews and Books, for the Use of the Widows, wherein the Chaplain, whose Stipend is 30
l. per Ann.
is to read Prayers every Day, and to preach on
Sundays:
and for his further Encouragement, is to be presented, on a Vacancy, to the Rectory of
Kemish,
in the same County, which the Duchess has appropriated to that Use. Besides the yearly Pension in Money, which is now about Eight Guineas, she hath also ordered a Cloth-gown, with a certain Quantity of Wood every Winter, to each of the Widows: and when the Estates which she has given to the said Almshouse, (many of which are now demised upon Leases for Lives) shall fall in, and shall produce a clear yearly Income of more than 400
l.
she hath appointed additional Lodgings to be built for the Reception of Twenty more Widows, who are to be placed on the same Establishment, elected and provided for in the same manner as the Thirty former; and then all the Rents and Profits of the said Estates (the Salary for the Chaplain and a Steward being first deducted) shall be distributed in equal Shares and Proportions between the Fifty Widows.
The Produce of all the Estates devised to this, and another charitable Use, which I shall mention by-and-by, upon the Determination of the Leases granted, will, according to the best Information I could get, amount to little less than 1000
l. per Ann.
This truly useful and excellent Charity, which displays the Judgment, as well as charitable Disposition, of the noble Foundress, is under the Inspection and Management of several worthy Gentlemen and Clergymen of the Neighbourhood, who discharge the Trust reposed in them with a very laudable Diligence and Integrity,
scrupulously,
or religiously rather, pursuing the Directions of the Will, carefully preventing all Imbezelments, and frequently meeting, at their own Expence, for the Dispatch of Business in the Execution of their Trust; which worthy Example, if imitated by other Trustees or Directors of charitable Benefactions, (who too often make a Property of their Trust) would be of publick Emolument, and singular Benefit to the Poor, by rescuing charitable Devises from the Discouragement they now lie under, and rendering unnecessary the Trouble and Expence of applying for, and suing out Commissions of Charitable Uses.
The same charitable Lady, to make Provision for the helpless Young, as well as destitute Old, has also bequeathed a considerable yearly Sum for the apprenticing of Ten or Twelve Children, in which a Preference is to be given to such as were born in her Manors. In the Management of which Trust, another Set of Trustees act, with the same commendable Uncorruptness and Integrity as the former.
We next came to
Hungerford,
a little Markettown, situate in a Moorish-place, remarkable only for being a great Thoroughfare to
Bath
and
Bristol,
and for Plenty of Trout and Crayfish. It is governed by the Lord of the Manor, as Constable, who is however chosen annually into that Office. From this Town the antient Family of the Barons of
Hungerford
took their Name and Title. The first of the Family was the first Speaker of the House of Commons, in 51.
Edward
III. They possess'd a vast Estate this Way, and in all the neighbouring Counties, which was twice forfeited for their Attachment to the House of
Lancaster.
This vast Estate fell by a Daughter to the famous Lord
Hastings,
who was executed in the Reign of
Richard
III. when
Howard,
first Duke of
Norfolk,
had a Grant of it from that Prince, who falling with his Master in the Battle of
Bosworth-Field,
King
Henry
VII. restored it, with the Honour, to a younger Branch of the
Hungerfords,
who had joined him, and shared in the Glory of that Victory. But his Descendants suffer'd Death for Treason, 31
Henry
VIII. tho' Queen
Mary
restored them again. He was the Third of the Family who died for Treason: such Vicissitudes attended this noble Family, and their great Estate.
We pursued the great Road, and arrived at
Newbury,
situate in a most fruitful Plain, and water'd by the River
Kennet,
which is made navigable up to the Town, which carries on a very great Trade in Malt,
&c.
with
London.
It is governed by a Mayor, High Steward, Aldermen and Burgesses. The Streets are spacious, and the Market-place large, where there is great Store of Corn sold; and a Hall for the Business of the Corporation stands in it.
Here is also a good Charity-school, very well endow'd, and this Place is noted for good Trout and Crayfish.
Near this Town was a double Scene of Blood; for here were Two obstinate Battles fought at different Times, between the King's Army and the Parliament's, King
Charles
being present at them both, and both were fought almost upon the same Spot of Ground. In these Two Battles it was observed by an experienced Soldier, who served in the King's Army, that the Generals on both Sides shewed the most exquisite Skill in the managing, posting, bringing up, and drawing off their Troops; and the Men fought with equal Bravery. In the first of these Battles the Success was doubtful, and both Sides claim'd the Advantage: in the last, the King's Army had apparently the worst of it, and yet the King in a very few Days, with a great Body of Horse, brought off his Cannon, which he had, in the Close of the Battle, thrown into
Dunington
Castle, and carried them away to
Oxford,
the Head Quarter of his Army; and this he did in the Sight of the victorious Army, facing them at the same time with a Body of Six thousand Horse; they, on the other hand, not thinking fit to draw out to attack him. That Retreat, in point of Honour, was equal to a Victory, and gave new Courage, as well as Reputation, to the King's Troops.
Part of
Newbury
is also known by the Name of
Spinham-lands.
For it arose out of the Ruins of an old Town, called
Spine,
the Remains of which now join to
Newbury,
in respect to which it was called
New Borough,
and for Shortness
Newbury.
It is noted, among other Things, for Two or Three good Inns, where Travellers are well accommodated.
This Town of
Newbury
was an antient Clothing Town, tho' now little of that Business remains to it; but it retains still a manufacturing Genius, and the People are generally imployed in making Shalloon, which, tho' it be used only for the Lining and Insides of Mens Cloaths, yet it becomes so generally worn both at home and abroad, that it is increased to a Manufacture by itself, and is more considerable than any single Manufacture of Stuffs in the Nation. This imploys the Town of
Newbury,
as also
Andover,
a Town I have already described, and many others in different Counties of
England.
Here lived the famous
Jack of Newbury,
the greatest Clothier that ever was in
England,
having 100 Looms at work in his own House. He flourished in the Reign of
Henry
VIII. and marched at the Head of 100 of his own Men, all cloath'd and maintain'd by himself, to the Battle of
Flodden-Field,
where he behav'd well. He rebuilt Part of
Newbury
Church, and the whole Tower of it. This is One of the Two Legatee Towns (as they were called) in the Will of the famous Mr.
Kenrick,
who being the Son of a Clothier of
Newbury,
and afterwards a Merchant in
London,
left 4000
l.
to
Newbury,
and 7500
l.
to
Reading,
to encourage the Clothing Trade, and to set the Poor at Work, besides other Gifts of extraordinary Value to the Poor.
This Gentleman's Will is to be seen at large in
Stow
's
Survey of London,
to which I refer.
What Improvement the Towns of
Newbury
and
Reading
have made of these great Sums, I did not inquire into.
Near
Newbury
the late Earl of
Craven
built a very stately Pile of Buildings for his own Dwelling, called
Spine
; but as it was never quite finished, so I do not understand, that his Lordship ever came to live in it, and some Years ago it was by a sudden Fire burnt down to the Ground. It was reported, that that Lord built this magnificent Palace, (for such it really was) at a Time when he had Hopes of marrying Madame Royale, as she was then called,
viz.
the Queen of
Bohemia,
Sister to King
Charles
I. who, then a Widow, lived under the Shadow of the
English
Coutt; but being frustrated in that View, the Earl went no farther in his Building. But his present Lordship has lately rebuilt this House, and tho' not in so grand a manner as the former, it is very commodious.
Westward, a little out of our Way, we visited the Ruins of the Castle of
Donnington,
just mention'd, which was seated on the Brow of a high Hill, washed by the little River
Lambourn,
and had been the Seat of Sir
Geoffrey Chaucer,
Father of
English
Poetry. They shew us a Place here, where, in his Days, as well as many Years since, even down to the Memory of some of the Inhabitants now living, flourished a great Oak, call'd
Chaucer
's
Oak,
where they very gravely tell you he used to sit and compose his Poems.
We went forward to the Town of
Lambourn,
so called from the River which runs down and falls into the
Kennet,
near
Thatcham.
It is situate on the South-side of
White-Horse-Hill,
and has a Market. This River is remarkable for being very low in Winter, and high in Summer. It goes off about
Michaelmas,
and the sooner it goes, the more plentiful, say the Inhabitants, will that Year be. This Town is likewise noted for the Birth-place, or at least, the Residence of the Poet
Sylvester,
who celebrates the River in the following Lines:
And little
Lambesbourn —
All Summer long, while all thy Sisters shrink,
Then of thy Waters Thousands daily drink;
Besides, shed Water, which in haste doth run
To wash the Feet of
Chaucer's Donnington;
But while the rest are full unto the Top,
All Summer long thou dost not shed a Drop,
Nor send'st a Doit of needless Subsidy
To cram the
Kennet
's wantless Treasury,
Before her Stores be spent, and Springs be staid:
Then, then, alone, thou lend'st a lib'ral Aid,
Teaching thy wealthy Neighbours (mine of late)
How, when, and where, to right participate
Their Streams of Comfort to the Poor that pine,
And not to grease the still too greasy Swine;
Neither for Fame or Form (when others do)
To give a Morsel, or a Mite or two,
But sev'rally, and of a selfly Motion,
When others miss, to give the most Devotion.
At
Newbury
we quitted the high Road, and being desirous to see something of the North of
Berkshire,
we struck up to
Islip,
which tho' but an inconsiderable little Town, yet has a good weekly Market for Sheep.
We passed North-eastward to
Wantage,
a Town of some Antiquity, pretty good and neat. It is noted for the Birth-place of the renowned King
Alfred,
and is watered by the
Och.
From
Wantage
we advanced into the fine and fertile Vale of
White-Horse,
which extends almost from
Farringdon
to
Abington,
tho' not in a direct Line. Looking South from the Vale, we see a Trench cut on the Side of a high green Hill, in the Shape of a Horse, and not ill done. The Trench is about a Yard deep, and fill'd almost up with Chalk; so that at a Distance you see the exact Shape of a
White-Horse,
so large as takes up near an Acre of Ground. From this Figure the Hill is called
White-Horse-Hill,
and the Vale below takes also its Name. 'Tis said to be done in order to commemorate a signal Victory; and some give it to the
Saxons,
whose Device was, and still is, a white Horse. Westward of this Vale, lies
Ashbury,
betwixt which and
Wantage
is a very large Camp on the Brow of a Hill: 'tis single work'd, and of a quadrangular Form, which shews it a
Roman
Work.
The neighbouring Parish to this
White-Horse
have a Custom annually at
Midsummer,
to go and weed it, in order to keep it in Shape and Colour; and when they have done their Work, they end the Day in Feasting and Meriment.
We arrived at
Farringdon,
noted for its pleasant Situation on a Hill. It has a very good Market weekly, and is very neat and clean. In this Place may be seen the Ruins of a Castle, built by
Robert
Earl of
Gloucester,
in King
Stephen
's Reign. Here was also a Priory of
Cistertian
Monks. The Church is large and handsome.
From hence we went partly by the Forest to
Abingdon,
a handsome well-built Town, where the Assizes and Sessions, and other publick Meetings of the County, are generally held. Here is a stately Market-house, built on high Pillars, over which is a large Hall for the Assizes. The Town consists of several well-paved Streets, which centre in an open and spacious Place, where the Corn-market is kept. They make great Quantities of Malt here, and send it up by Barges to
London.
Here is a good Free-School, and also a Charity-School. The Corporation is governed by a Mayor, Two Bailiffs, and Nine Aldermen.
It is an antient Town, and was famed for Religious Houses in the Time of the antient
Britons.
It was also famous for having several Synods held there, and for one of the noblest Abbeys in the Kingdom, founded, as it is said, by
Heane,
Nephew to
Cissa,
Father to King
Ina. Henry
I. was educated in this Monastery.
We next came to
Wallingford,
called by the antient
Britons Gwal Hen,
i. e.
Old Fort,
a Place of great Figure, as well in their Days and of the
Romans,
as of the
Saxons
and
Danes,
the last of whom destroyed it in 1006; but it was soon rebuilt, and esteemed a Borough, in the
Confessor
's Time. It has been defended by a strong Castle, which has been long since demolish'd. It is still a large well-built Town, has a good Market-place and Town-hall, where the Assizes have been sometimes held, and a Quarter-session for the Borough always. It has still Two Churches standing; but one was very much damaged in the Civil Wars, when Two others here were altogether destroyed. It has Two weekly Markets, and is govern'd by a Mayor, Burgesses,
&c.
Here we cross'd the
Thames
into
Oxfordshire,
and leaving
Wathington,
a little inconsiderable Market-town on the Left, we fell down thro'
Netlebed
(likewise a Town of little Note) to
Henley upon Thames,
a very antient Town, the Name being deriv'd from the
British
Word
Hen-lley,
i. e.
Old Place.
It was formerly part of the Estate of the Barons of
Hungerford,
mentioned before. It is now a Corporation of great Account, govern'd by a Warden, Burgesses, and other Officers. It has a considerable Corn and Malt-market. The Inhabitants are mostly Maltsters, Mealmen and Bargemen, who by carrying Corn and Timber to
London,
get a gainful Living, and inrich the Neighbourhood. It has a good Free Grammar School, and also a Charity School, liberally endow'd for teaching, cloathing, and apprenticing several poor Children. Here is also an Alms-house, but meanly endowed; for tho' there are not above Six or Seven Persons in it, they have but Six-pence a-piece weekly for their Allowance.
We return'd over a wooden Bridge, into
Berkshire
; and as
Thatcham, Woolhampton
and
Theal,
which lie between
Newbury
and
Reading,
are at present noted only for being great Thoroughfare Towns, and full of Inns, we went no further back than
Reading.
Reading
is so called from the
British
Word
Rhedin,
i. e.
Fern,
which formerly grew in great Quantity there. It is a very large and wealthy Town, handsomly built, the Inhabitants rich, and driving a very great Trade. The Town is situated on the River
Kennet,
but so near the
Thames,
that the largest Barges which they use, may come up to the Town Bridge, where they have Wharfs to load and unload them. Their chief Trade is by this Water-navigation to and from
London,
tho' they have necessarily a great Trade into the Country, for the Consumption of the Goods which they bring by their Barges from
London,
and particularly Coals, Salt, Grocery Wares, Tobacco, Oils, and all heavy Goods.
They send from hence to
London
by these Barges, very great Quantities of Malt and Meal, and these are the Two principal Articles of their Loadings. Some of those Barges are so large, that I was told, they bring a Thousand, or Twelve hundred Quarters of Malt at a time, which, according to the ordinary Computation of Tonnage in the Freight of other Vessels, is from a Hundred to an Hundred and Twenty Ton, dead Weight.
They also send very great Quantities of Timber from
Reading
; for
Berkshire
being a well-wooded County, and the River
Thames
a convenient Conveyance for the Timber, they transport the largest and fairest of the Timber to
London,
which is generally bought by the Shipwrights in the River for the building Merchant-Ships. The like Trade of Timber is carried on at
Henley
above-mentioned, and at
Maiden-head
; of which in its Place.
A large Manufacture of Sail-Cloth was set up in
Reading
by the late Sir
Owen Buckingham,
Lord-Mayor of
London,
and many of the poor People were profitably imployed in it; but Sir
Owen
dying, and his Son being unhappily kill'd in a Duel a little while after, that Manufacture died also.
Here is however still a Remnant of the Woollen Manufacture, which was once carried on in it to a very considerable Degree; and this Town, as well as
Newbury,
has injoy'd the above-mentioned Legacies of Mr.
Kenrick,
to set the Poor at Work, and incourage the Clothing Trade;
viz.
7500
l.
Mr.
Camden
's Continuator says, there were once 140 Master-Clothiers in this one Town; but now they are almost all gone. During the Civil Wars in
England
this Town was strongly fortified, and the Remains of the Bastions and other Works are still to be seen.
There are Three Churches built of Flint and square Stones in the quincunx Fashion, with tall Towers of the same. Here are also Two large Meeting-houses, besides that of the Quakers.
Camden
calls it a little City: it is said to contain about 8000 People, including a little Hamlet at the Bridge over the
Thames.
Archbishop
Laud
was born in this Town.
It was formerly noted for a very famous Abbey, and other Religious Foundations. The Abbey stood in a charming Situation, and large Ruins of it are still visible, built of Flint: the Walls which remain are about Eight Feet thick, tho' the Stone that faced them is gone. What is left is so hard cemented, that the Labour in separating them would not be answer'd by their Use. There are many Remnants of arch'd Vaults, a good Height above Ground, whereon stood, as may be presum'd, the Hall, Lodgings,
&c.
The Abbey Gate-house is yet pretty intire.
This was built by King
Henry
I. on an old Abbey, formerly erected by a
Saxon
Lady. That Prince was buried in it, with his Queen; but their Monuments are lost in the Ruins of the Place, and no-where to be found.
There was a famous old Castle, long since demolished.
The Empress
Maud,
Daughter of
Henry
I. was also buried here; but her Monument is lost, as well as the others. It bore this Inscription, as we are assur'd:
Magna ortu, majorque viro, sed maxima partu,
Hic jacet
Henrici
filia, sponsa, parens.
Thus translated:
Illustrious in Descent, in Marriage more,
But noblest in her Offspring's Royal Pow'r,
Great
Henry
's Daughter, Parent, Wife, deplore.
The deceas'd Earl
Cadogan,
who was created Baron of
Reading,
by his late Majesty King
George
I. in 1716, built a fine large House at
Caversham
near
Reading
; which his Successor the present Lord
Cadogan
thought fit to reduce to a smaller and more convenient Size, as less regarding the outward Glare of Magnificence, than Use and Convenience.
At
Reading,
in the Year 1688, began the universal Alarm that spread over the whole Kingdom (almost at the same time) of the
Irish
being coming to cut every body's Throats; which was carried from Town to Town by Peoples Fears and Terrors, aggravated by the Menaces of an
Irish
Detachment of Soldiers, who were beat out of
Reading
by the
Dutch,
and prevented taking the Quarters they intended at
Maidenhead, Colebrook, Stanes,
&c.
It is impossible to express the Consternation of the People all over
England
on this Occasion; for the terrible Story spread (like the Undulations of the Water in a Pond, when a flat Stone is cast upon the Surface) all over the Kingdom, as I have said, in one Day; for Fear gave Wings to the News: no Post could carry it as it flew from Town to Town; and still every Messenger had Two Articles with him: 1. Not that such and such Towns
were to be
burnt and plundered by them; but that they
were already
burnt: And, 2. that the
Irish
were at their Heels to do the like there. And the Service this Report did to the Cause of the Revolution, is hardly to be imagined.
Twyford
is about Five Miles East of
Reading,
and is only noted, like
Theale,
and the other Towns beyond
Reading,
for its Number of Inns, for the Accommodations of Carriers,
&c.
Just beyond
Theale,
is
Inglefield,
where King
Ethetwolf
routed the
Danes.
From
Reading
I went to
Great Marlow
in
Buckinghamshire,
which, though not in the direct Road, yet lying on the Banks of the River
Thames,
is proper enough to be spoken of, and is particularly worth Notice for several Things.
1. It is a Town of very great Imbarkation on the
Thames,
not so much for Manufactures wrought here, (for the Trade of the Town is chiefly in
Bonelace
) but for Goods brought from the neighbouring Towns; a very great Quantity of Malt and Meal particularly being brought hither from
High Wickham,
which is one of the greatest Corn-markets on this Side of
England,
and lies on the Road from
London
to
Oxford.
2. Between
High Wickham
and
Marlow
is a little River called the
Loddon,
on which are a great many Corn-mills, and some Paper-mills: the first of these grind and dress the Wheat, and then the Meal is sent to
Marlow,
and put on board the Barges for
London
; and the second make great Quantities of ordinary Printing-paper.
3. On the
Thames,
just by the Side of this Town, tho' on the other Bank, are Three very remarkable Mills, called the
Temple-Mills,
or the
Brass-Mills,
for making
Bisham
Abbey
Battery Work,
as they call it,
viz.
Brass Kettles and Pans,
&c.
of all Sorts. And these Works were attended with no small Success, 'till in the Year 1720. they made a Bubble of it, and then it ran the Fate of all the Bubbles at that time.
4. Next to these are Two Mills which are both of an extraordinary Kind, one for making of Thimbles, a Work which performs to Admiration; and another for pressing of Oyl from Rape and Flaxseed, both which turn to very good Account to the Proprietors.
Hither is also brought down a vast Quantity of Beech Wood, which grows in
Buckinghamshire
more plentifully than in any other Part of
England
; and from whence the County itself derives its Name.
At
Bisham,
over-against this Town, was formerly an Abbey, and the Remains of it are still to be seen. The Estate belong'd once to the
Knights Templars,
and since came to the antient Family of
Hobby,
whereof Sir
William Hobby,
and Sir
Edward Hobby,
are noted in our Histories, the latter as having been imploy'd by Queen
Elizabeth
in the most important foreign Negotiations, as a learned Man, and great Antiquary. Their Monuments, with those of their Ladies and Children, are in the little Church of
Bisham,
and well worth seeing. The Seat of the Family is now in
Dorsetshire
; but hither they are generally all brought, when they die, to be buried with their Ancestors.
A little higher, on the same Side of the River, is
Hurley,
an antient Seat of the Lord
Lovela
; and all the Male Branches of the Family b
g extinct, it came by the Daughter and Heires
o S
r
H
nry Johnson
of
Blackwall,
near
Ratcliffe,
who originally was only a Shipwright, or Master-build
r, at the great Yard and Dock there, of which I shall speak in their Place. This Lady left only one Daughter, married to the late Earl of
Strafford.
From hence we fell with the
Thames
into
Maidenhead,
and so came into the
London
Road again. It is an antient Corporation under the Government of a High Steward, a Mayor, a Steward, and Ten Aldermen, out of which they annually elect Two Bridgmasters to look after the large Timber-bridge which here crosses the
Thames,
for the Repair of which the Town has Three Trees annually allow'd them out of
Windsor
Forest. The Mayor, for the Time being, is Clerk of the Market and Coroner, and he and the Mayor for the preceding Year, and the Steward, are Justices of the Peace: they chuse yearly Two Mace-bearers. The Town is a large Thoroughfare, with many good Inns in it, and has a good Market weekly. It lies in Two Parishes, one Part of it is in
Bray,
famous of old for its conforming Vicar to all Times, Changes, and Seasons.
As soon as you are out of
Maidenhead,
you see
Cliefden
on your Left, where
George
Duke of
Buckingham
began a magnificent and delightful Palace, which the late Earl of
Orkney
afterwards purchased of the Family, and finish'd; and now has the Honour to be the Summer Retreat of his Royal Highness
Frederick
Prince of
Wales.
We came to
Slough,
a Village Five Miles East of
Maidenhead,
which consists almost intirely of Inns. They seem to vie with one another, and 'tis wonderful how they all subsist; and especially as they are opposed by the Two famous new ones of the
Castle
and
Windmill,
a little Way out of
Slough,
which are much more delightfully situated, and have better Accommodations.
Here we left the Road, and turn'd to the Right, and soon arriv'd at
Eton,
where there is the finest School for Grammar Learning, that is in
Britain,
or perhaps in
Europe.
The Buildings, except the great School-room, are antient; the Chapel
Gothick
; but all has been repaired, at a very great Expence, out of the College Stock, within these few Years, and a noble Library built for the Reception of Books.
In the great Court a fine Statue is erected to the Honour of the Founder, by Dr.
Godolphin,
late Dean of St.
Paul
's, and Provost of this College; and the Library has receiv'd several considerable Benefactions, particularly very lately, the fine Collection of
Richard Topham,
Esq
formerly Keeper of the Records in the
Tower,
which was presented to it, by the late excellent Lord Chief Justice
Reeves.
And before that a Collection of Books, valu'd at 2000
l.
was left to it by Dr.
Waddington,
late Bishop of
Chichester.
The Gardens, which extend from the College down almost to the Bank of the
Thames,
are well planted and kept.
This College was founded by King
Henry
VI. a Prince munificent in his Gifts for the Incouragement of Learning. Witness, besides this noble Foundation, that of
King
's College in
Cambridge,
to which the Scholars of
Eton
are annually removed; and which, had it been perfected as he designed it, would have been the noblest Building of the Kind in the World. But his Successor and Deposer, K.
Ed.
IV. took several Manors from
Eton
College, and bestow'd them on their Neighbours at
Windsor
; and had intended to have taken from them still more, had not the celebrated
Jane Shore
solicited in their Behalf.
This College has a settled Revenue of about 5000
l. per Ann.
and maintains a Provost, a Vice-provost, who is also a Fellow; Six other Fellows, and 70 Scholars on the Foundation, besides a full Choir for the Chapel, with necessary Officers and Servants. The School is divided into the upper and lower, and each into Three Classes; each School has One Master, and each Master Four Assistants or Ushers. None are received into the upper School, till they can make
Latin
Verses, and have a tolerable Knowledge of the
Greek.
In the lower School the Children are received very young, and are initiated into all School-learning. Besides the Seventy Scholars upon the Foundation, there are always abundance of Children, generally speaking, of the best Families, and of Persons of Distinction, who are boarded in the Houses of the Townsmen, and within the College.
The Number of Scholars instructed here used to be from 400 to 500; but has not been, for Seven Years past, more than 320.
The Election of Scholars for the University, out of this School, is made annually on the First
Tuesday
in
August.
In order to it, Three Persons are deputed from
King
's College in
Cambridge, viz.
the Provost of that College, and One Senior, and One Junior Poser, Fellows of the same; who being join'd by the Provost, the Vice-provost, and the Head Master of
Eton
College, call before them the Scholars of the upper Class, and examining them in the several Parts of their Learning, chuse out Twelve such as they think best qualified, and enter them in a Roll or List for the University. These Youths are not immediately removed from the School, but must wait till Vacancies fall in
King
's College; and as such happen, are then taken as they stand in Seniority in the Roll of Election.
When a Scholar from
Eton
comes to
King
's College, he is received upon the Foundation, and pursues his Studies there for Three Years; after which he claims a Fellowship, unless forfeited by Marriage, accepting of Ecclesiastick Preferments,
&c.
according to the Terms of the Statutes.
The Provost has a noble House and Garden, besides the Use of the College Gardens at his Pleasure.
Will you, Sir, excuse me here a few Lines to the Memory of the late excellent Lord Chief Justice
Reeves,
before-mentioned? This worthy and eminent Lawyer had a Seat in this Town, to which he constantly retired at the Close of every Term, while he was at the Bar; for he would never go the Circuit, or attend the Court of Chancery; and actually declined accepting of the high Office of a Judge, while his Lady liv'd, chusing rather to spend his Vacations in Retirement with his Family, than either Honour or Profit; yet he was pursued even here with Cases for his Opinion, as being the greatest Lawyer of his Time; and these were conveyed to him by his Clerk from his Chambers in the
Temple
; and after he had answer'd them, he would return them thither again, without seeing the Practisers who left them.
This Gentleman lay a long time undistinguish'd in his Profession, under an invincible Modesty; insomuch that he thought once of quitting the Bar: but a lucky Occasion happening, whereby he had an Opportunity to shew his great Parts and Learning, he was soon taken Notice of, and retain'd in every Cause of Moment; but however confined himself intirely to the Courts of Law, and chiefly to that of the King's Bench. After the Death of his Wife he was prevailed with to ascend the Bench as a Judge, in the last Court, which he accepted, probably to alleviate and divert the Concern he was in for her Death. He was afterwards made Lord Chief Justice of the Common-pleas, in which Office he lived but Two Years. His Death was a publick Loss, and much lamented.
I am now come to
Windsor,
where I must for a while quit the Subject of Trade and Navigation, in order to describe the most beautiful and most pleasantly situated Castle, and Royal Palace, in the whole Isle of
Great Britain.
William the Conqueror
was the first of our
English
Monarchs, who distinguish'd
Windsor.
That Prince, who delighted much in Hunting, finding it a Situation highly proper for that Purpose, and, as he said of it, a suitable Place for the Entertainment of Kings, agreed with the Abbot of
Westminster
for an Exchange, and so took Possession of it. He built a Castle here, and had several little Lodges or Hunting-houses in the Forest adjoining; and frequently lodg'd, for the Conveniency of his Sport, in a House which the Monks before enjoyed near or in the Town of
Windsor
; for the Town is much more ancient than the present Castle, and was an eminent Pass upon the
Thames
in the Reign of the
Saxon
Kings.
After him King
Edward
III. taking an extreme Liking to that Place, resolved to fix his Summer Residence here; and accordingly laid out himself the Plan of that magnificent Palace, which, as to outward Form and Building, we now see there; for whatever has been done as to beautifying, altering, or amending the Inside and Apartments, nothing has been added to the Building itself, except that noble Terrace, which runs under the North Front, and leads to the Green on the Park, at the East Side or End of it, along which the fine Lodgings, and Royal Apartments, were at first built; all the North-part being then taken up in Rooms of State, and Halls for publick Balls,
&c.
The House itself was indeed a Palace, and without any Appearance of a Fortification; but when the Building was brought on to the Slope of the Hill on the Town Side, the King added Ditches, Ramparts, the Round Tower, and several other Places of Strength; and thence it was called a Castle.
Such a Pride did this great King take in being the Founder of this sumptuous Building, that when it was suggested to him, that
William of Wickham
had assumed the Honour of it to himself, it had like to have cost
William
all his Interest in the King's Favour, which at that time was very great; but the Prelate cleared himself by disavowing the Charge, urging that all he protended to, was to acknowlege, That the Money and the Reputation he had gained by building that Castle for the King, had been the making of him. For it seems he had caused these Words,
THIS MADE WICKHAM,
to be cut in Stone in the inner Wall of the little Tower, which from him is, to this Day, call'd
Winchester Tower.
William of Wickham,
whom I have before-mentioned in my Account of
Winchester,
was, at that time, the Architect of the Court; and so well perform'd his Part, that in all the Decorations and Ornaments which have been made since by succeeding Princes, they have found no Occasion to add to or diminish any thing, except it be to alter some small Matter at the Entrance to the great Stair-case, the Kitchen, and Offices below Stairs, and such-like; but the great North and East Fronts, the Square of the inner Court, the great Gates at the entering from the Town, with the Round Tower, and the Walls annex'd, are all standing in the very Form in which King
Edward
III. left them.
The only Addition in the Inside, is a fine Equestrian Statue of King
Charles
II. which stands over the great Well, sunk, as may be supposed, in the first Building, for the Supply of the Castle with Water, and in which was an Engine for raising it, notwithstanding the great Depth, by very little Labour; the Contrivance and Performance of Sir
Samuel Morland,
an excellent Mechanick and Mathematician.
On the Outside, as I have said, was added the Terrace Walk, by Queen
Elizabeth,
where she usually walked for an Hour every Day before her Dinner, if not hindered by windy Weather, to which she had a peculiar Aversion; for she loved to walk in a mild, calm Rain, with an Umbrella over her Head.
This is really a magnificent Work; for as it is raised on a steep Declivity of the Hill, it was necessarily cut down a very great Depth, to bring the Foundation to a Flat equal to the Breadth, which was to be formed above. From the Foundation it was raised by solid Stone Work of a vast Thickness, with cross Walls of Stone, for banding the Front, and preventing any Thrust from the Weight of Earth within.
This noble Walk is covered with fine Gravel, and has Cavities, with Drains, to carry off the Water; so that not a Drop of Rain will rest on the Terrace, but it is dry, hard, and fit to walk on immediately after the greatest Showers. The Breadth of this Walk is very spacious on the North Side; on the East Side it is narrower. Neither
Versailles,
nor any of the Royal Palaces in
France, Naples,
or
Rome,
can shew any thing like this. The Grand Seignior's Terrace, in the outer Court of the
Seraglio
next the Sea, is what I think comes the nearest, and yet is not equal to it, if I may believe the Account of those who have seen it.
At the North-east Corner of this Terrace, where it turns South, to run on by the East Side of the Castle, are Steps, by which you go off upon the Plain of the Park, which is kept smooth as a Carpet, and on the Edge of which the Prospect of the Terrace is doubled by a Vista, South over the Park, and quite up to the great Park, and towards the Forest. Here also is a small Seat, that will not contain above One, or Two at most, with an high Back and Cover for the Head, which being fixed on a Pin of Iron or Brass, the Persons who sit in it may easily turn it from the Wind, however it may blow; and enjoy a complete Calm. This is said also to be Queen
Elizabeth
's Invention, to avoid being ruffled with the Wind; and it affords no less Shelter from the Sun.
From this lofty Terrace the People within have an Egress to the Park, and to a most beautiful Walk, which neither King
Edward
III. nor his Successors, for some Hundreds of Years, knew any thing of, all their Prospect being from the Windows of the Castle.
On that Side of the Building which looks out upon the Terrace, are all the Royal Apartments; those of King
Edward
III. which were on the East Side, being now allotted to great Officers of State.
You mount into the Royal Apartments by several back Stairs; but the publick Way is up a small Ascent to a Flat or Half-pace, where there are two Entries of State by two large Stair-cases, one on the Left-hand to the Royal Apartments, and the other on the Right, to
St. George's-hall
and the Royal Chapel.
Before the Entrance to these on either Side, you pass thro' the Guard-chambers, where you see the Walls furnished with Arms, and the King's Yeomen of the Guard keep their Station. These Rooms lead as well to the fine Lodgings, as to
St. George's-hall.
In the Royal Lodgings there have been so many Alterations of Furniture, that there can be no entering upon a particular Description. In the Chimney-piece of one of these Apartments, is a Piece of Needle-work exquisitely fine, performed, as they say, by the Queen of
Scots,
during the Time of her Confinement in
Fotheringay-castle.
There are several Family Pictures in the Chimney-pieces, and other Parts of those Lodgings, which are very valuable.
These Rooms look all out North towards the Terrace, and over Part of the finest and richest Vale in the World; which along the Course of the River
Thames,
with very little Interruption, reaches to, and includes the City of
London
East, and the City of
Oxford
West; the River, with a beautiful winding Stream gliding gently thro' the Middle of it, and inriching by its Navigation both the Land and the People on every Side.
It may be proper to say something of the Beauties and Ornaments of
St. George's-hall,
tho' nothing can be said equal to what the Eye may be Witness to. 'Tis surprising, at the first Entrance, to see at the Upper-end the Picture of King
William
on Horseback; under him an Ascent with Marble Steps, a Balustrade, and a half Pace, which formerly was actually there, with room for a Throne, or Chair of State, for the Sovereign to sit on, when on publick Days he thought fit to appear in Ceremony.
At the West End of the Hall is the Chapel Royal, the neatest and finest of the Kind in
England:
the carved Work is beyond any that can be seen in the Kingdom.
After we had spent some Hours in viewing all that was curious on this Side, we came down to the Dungeon, or
Round Tower,
which goes up a long, but easy Ascent of Steps, and is very high. Here we were obliged to deliver up our Swords, but no-where else: tho' here is nothing curious. The Governor or Constable's Lodgings are neatly furnished, but nowise extraordinary.
From this Tower you see
St. Paul
's Cathedral at
London
very plainly.
Coming down from hence we entered into the other Court, where is the great Chapel of the Garter, and the House or College for the poor Knights, as they are called.
I might go back here to the History of the Order of the Garter, the Institution of which by King
Edward
III. had its Original here: but this is done so fully in other Authors, that I shall only mention, That this Order was not founded on the Countess of
Salisbury
's Garter, as
Polydere Virgil,
the most conceited and most erroneous Author that ever wrote of the
English
Affairs, ridiculously asserts; but on that martial King's own Garter, which he gave as the Signal at the glorious Battle of
Cressi,
as
St. George
was given for the Word of the Day. To commemorate which, in Honour of his brave and warlike Son, and of those Nobles and Gentlemen who shared with him in the Glory of that ever memorable Day, he instituted this Order. And here I can't forbear observing, (tho' intirely out of my way) how fond we have ever been in following Foreigners in most Things, even from the Coxcomb in Dress, up to the Historian; as is evident not only from this idle Story of the above-mentioned Author prevailing among u
in particular, and of his History in general, but likewise of the Performance of a late Foreign Author, of the Affairs and Transactions of this Country; whereby the Translator, and Undertake
, to usher it out in
English,
got at least 10,000
l.
when it had nothing more, but rather much less▪ to recommend it, than any of our own
English
Histories.
The following are the Names of the first Knights of this most Noble Order.
King
Edward
III.
The Black Prince.
Henry,
D. of
Lancaster.
Thomas,
Earl of
Warwick.
Peers Capitow de la Bouch.
Ralph,
Earl of
Stafford.
W. Montacute,
E. of
Salis.
Roger Mortimer,
Earl of
March.
John de Lysle.
Bartholomew Burghersh.
John de Beauchamp.
John de M
un.
Hugh Courteney.
Thomas Holland.
John de Grey.
Richard Fitz Simon.
Miles Stapleton.
Thomas Wale.
Hugh Wortesley.
Nele Loring.
John Chandos.
James d' Audeley.
Otho Holland.
Henry Eam.
Sanchet Daubricourt.
Walter Paveley,
alias
Pevrell.
These, tho' not all Noblemen, were however Men of great Characters and Stations, either in the Army, or in the Civil Administration, and such as the Sovereign did not think it below him to make his Companions.
The lower Court of the Castle, although not so distinguished by Lodgings and Rooms of State, is nevertheless particularly glorious for the fine Chapel of the Order, a most beautiful and magnificent Work, and which shews the Greatness not only of the Court in those Days, but the Spirit and Genius of the magnanimous Founder. The Chapel is not only fine within, but the Workmanship without is extraordinary; nothing so antient is to be seen so beautiful.
King's-College
Chapel at
Cambridge,
built by
Henry
VI. and
Henry
VII.'s Chapel in
Westminster-Abbey,
are fine Buildings; but they are modern, compared to this, which was begun, as by the inscribed Dates upon the Walls appears, in the Year 1337.
The Coats of Arms, and the various Imagery and other Ornaments both inside and outside, not only of the King, but of several of the first Knights Companions, are wonderfully finished, and the Work has stood out against the Injury of Time to Admiration.
'Tis observable, that King
Edward
owns this Chapel was begun by his Ancestors, and some think it was by King
Edward
I. and that he himself was baptized in it, and there was a Castle built by
William the Conqueror
also: As to the Chapel, which was then called a Church, or a Convent, King
Edward
III. did not pull down the old Building intirely; but he added all the Choir to the first Model, and several other proper Parts for the Purposes intended, as Houses and handsome Apartments for the Canons, Dignitaries, and other Persons belonging to the Church, which are generally situated on the North Side of the Square, out of Sight, or rather skreened from the common View by the Church itself; which Dwellings are notwithstanding very good, and well accommodated for the Persons who are Possessors of them; then the King finished it in the Manner we now see it: As for the old Castle, the Building of
William the Conqueror,
the King pulled it down to the Foundation, forming a new Building according to the present Plan, and which stood, as above, to the Time of King
Charles
II. without any Alteration.
The Establishment for this Chapel was very considerable, by the Donation of divers Subjects, before it was set apart to be the Chapel of the Order: the Duke of
Suffolk
in particular, as appears in
Dugdale
's
Monasticon,
gave near 3000 Acres of Land, 19 Manors, 170 Messuages and Tofts, and several Advowsons of Churches, to it; which, with other Gifts afterwards, made the Revenue above 1000
l.
a Year in those Days, which was a prodigious Sum, as Money went at that Time.
In the Choir are the Stalls for the Knights of the Order, with a Throne for the Sovereign; also Stalls in the Middle of it for the poor Knights-Pensioners, who live in their House or Hospital on the South Side of the Square or Court in which the Church stands.
Here are to be seen the Banners of the Knights who now enjoy the Honour of the Garter: When they die, those Banners are taken down, and the Coat of Arms of the deceased Knight set up in the Place allotted for those Arms over the same Stall: so those Coats of Arms are a living History, or rather a Record of all the Knights, that ever have been since the first Institution of the Order, and how they succeeded one another; by which it appears, that Kings, Emperors, and Sovereign Princes, have not thought it below them to accept of the Honour of being Knights Companions of the Order, while at the same time it must be noted, to the Honour of the
English
Crown, that our Kings have never thought fit to accept of any of their Orders abroad, of what Kind soever; whereas there is an Account in the Registry of the Order, that there are reckoned up of this most Noble Company,
8 Emperors of
Germany.
3 Kings of
Sweden.
5 Kings of
Denmark.
2 Kings of
Prussia.
3 Kings of
Spain.
6 Princes of
Orange.
5 Kings of
France.
4 Peers of
France.
A King of
Scotland,
besides
James
VI.
5 Kings of
Portugal.
A King of
Poland.
2 Kings of
Naples.
A King of
Arragon.
3 Infants of
Portugal.
A Prince of
Denmark.
A Bishop of
Osnabrug.
5 Princes of
Lunenburg.
An Elector of
Brandenburg.
7 Electors
Palatine.
2 Electors of
Saxony.
2 Dukes of
Lorrain.
3 Dukes of
Wirtenberg.
2 Dukes of
Holstein.
2 Grandees of
Spain.
2 Dukes
de Urbino.
A Duke of
Savoy.
A Duke of
Saxe Gotha.
A Prince of
Hesse,
&c.
Besides these Foreign Princes, there is a little
Galaxy
of
English
Nobility, the Flower of so many Courts, and so many Ages, to whose Families the Ensigns of the Order have been an Honour, and who are not the least Glory this Order has to boast of. But as to the List of the present Knights, that being subject to Fluctuation, comes not within my Design in this Letter.
Several Kings and Persons of high Rank have been buried also in this Chapel, as
Edward
IV. and
Charles
I. Here also is the Family Burying-place of the Dukes of
Beauford,
who are a natural Branch of the Royal Family of
Lancaster.
All the Ceremonies observed here in the Instalment of the Knights, are so perfectly set down in Mr.
Ashmole
's History of the
Order of the Garter,
that nothing can be said but what must be a Copy from him.
As the upper Court and Building are fronted with the fine Terrace, so the lower Court, where this beautiful Chapel stands, is incompassed with a very high Wall, which goes round the West-end of the Court to the Gate; and looking South, leads into the Town, as the Gate of the upper Court looks likewise South-east into the little Park.
The Parks about
Windsor
are very agreeable and spacious: the little Park, as it is called, is above 3 Miles round, the great one 14, and the Forest above 30. The first is particular to the Court; the others are open for Riding, Hunting, and taking the Air, for any Gentlemen that please.
The Lodges in those Parks may be called Palaces, were they not eclipsed by the Palace itself. They have been beautified by the noble Persons to whom the Post of Rangers has been generally assigned, who, having been inriched by other Advancements, Honours, and profitable Imployments, thought nothing too much to lay out to adorn their Apartments, in a Place wherein it was so much to their Honour, as well as Convenience to reside: such is the Lodge belonging once to Admiral
Churchill,
the Duchess of
Marlborough,
and others.
We left
Windsor,
and struck again into the
London
Road at
Colebrook,
and passed over the Heath, and thro' the Town of
Hounslow, Brentford, Hamersmith,
and
Kensington
into
London.
And here I shall conclude this Letter with assuring you, that I am, Sir,
Your humble Servant.
LETTER II. CONTAINING A Description of the City of
LONDON,
as taking in the City of
Westminster,
Borough of
Southwark,
and the Buildings circumjacent.
SIR,
I Am now to describe the City of LONDON, and Parts adjacent: a Work infinitely difficult to be perform'd in the narrow Compass of a Letter, since we see it so fully takes up Two large Volumes in
Folio,
which yet, if I may venture to give an Opinion of it, is very imperfectly executed, and has imploy'd since another very large one in
Folio,
written by Mr.
W. Maitland,
F. R. S. which has much more Merit than the Two Volumes, and contains many Things needful to be known by the Curious, which are incompatible with the Brevity to which our narrow Limits confine us.
LONDON, as a City only, and as its Walls and Liberties line it out, might indeed be viewed in a smaller Compass, than what we propose to consider it in; for when I speak of
London,
in the modern Acceptation, I take in all that vast Mass of Buildings reaching from
Blackwall
in the East, to
Tothill-fields
in the West; and extended in an unequal Breadth from the Bridge or River in the South, to
Islington
North; and from
Peterborough-house
on the
Bankside
in
Westminster,
to
Cavendish-square
; and all the new Buildings by and beyond
Grosvenor
and
Hanover Squares
to the
Brentford
Road one way, to the
Acton
Road another; a Prodigy of Buildings, that nothing in the World does, or ever did, surpass, except old
Rome
in
Trajan
's Time, when the Walls of that City were 50 Miles in Compass, and the Number of Inhabitants 6,800,000 Souls.
London,
as to its Figure, must be owned to be very irregular, as it is stretch'd out in Buildings just at the Pleasure of every Undertaker of them, and as the Convenience of the People directs, whether for Trade, or otherwise. This has given it a very confused Face, and made it uncompact and unequal, being properly neither long or broad, round or square; whereas the City of
Rome,
was, in a manner, round, with very few Irregularities in its Shape.
One sees
London,
including the Buildings on both Sides the Water, in some Places Three Miles broad, as from
St. George
's in
Southwark,
to
Shoreditch
in
Middlesex
; or Two Miles, as from
Peterborough-house
to
Montague-house
; and in some Places not half a Mile, as in
Wapping
; and less in
Rotherhith.
We see several Villages, formerly standing, as it were, in the Country, and at a great Distance, now joined to the Streets by continued Buildings, and more making haste to meet in the like manner; for Example,
1.
Deptford:
This Town was formerly reckoned at least Two Miles from
Rotherhith,
and that over the Marshes too, a Place unlikely ever to be inhabited; and yet now, by the Increase of Buildings in that Town itself, and the many Streets erected at
Rotherhith,
and by the Docks and Building-yards on the River-side, which stand between both, the Town of
Deptford,
and the Streets of
Rotherhith,
are in a manner joined, and the Buildings daily increasing; so that
Deptford
may be reckoned a Part of the great Mass, and infinitely full of People also; and were the Town of
Deptford
now separated, and rated by itself, I believe it contains more People, and stands upon more Ground than the City of
Wells.
2. The Town of
Islington,
on the North-side of the City, is in like manner joined to the Streets of
London,
excepting one small Field, and which is in itself so small, that there is no Doubt but in a very few Years they will be intirely joined. And the same may be said,
3. Of
Mile-end,
on the East End of the Town.
4.
Newington-butts,
in
Surrey,
reaches out her Hand North, and is so joining to
Southwark,
that it cannot now be properly called a Town by itself, but a kind of Suburb to the Borough; and if, as once was talk'd of,
St. George's-fields
should be built into Squares and Streets,
Newington, Lambeth,
and the
Borough,
would make but one
Southwark.
That
Westminster
is in a fair way to shake Hands with
Chelsea,
as
St. Gyles
's is with
Marybone
; and
Great Russel-street
by
Montague-house,
with
Tottenham-court,
is very evident; and yet all these put together, may still be called
London:
Whither will this City then extend, and where must a Circumvallation Line of it be placed?
I have, as near as I could, caused a Measure to be taken of this mighty Body; and for the Satisfaction of your Curiosity, I have here given as accurate a Description of it, as I can do in so narrow a Compass, or without drawing a Plan of the Places.
As I am forced, in many Places, to take in some unbuilt Ground, so I have, on the other hand, been obliged to leave a great many whole Streets of Buildings out of my Line: so that I have really not stretched my Calculations, to make it seem bigger than it is; nor is there any Occasion for it.
A
LINE
of Measurement, drawn about all the continued Buildings of the City of
London,
and Parts adjacent, including
Westminster
and
Southwark,
&c.
N.B.
I shall sum up by Figures, 1, 2, 3,
&c.
the Particulars at last.
The Line begins, for the
MIDDLESEX
Side of the
BUILDINGS,
1. AT
Peterborough-house,
the farthest House West upon the River
Thames,
and runs North-west by West by the Marshes to
Tothill-fields,
and passing by the
Neat-houses
and
Arnold
's Brewhouse, ends at
Chelsea
Road. Measured, 1
Mile,
6
Furlongs,
16
Rods.
2. Then, allowing an Interval from
Buckingham-house
cross the Park, about one Furlong and half to the Corner of my Lord
Godolphin
's Garden-Wall, the Line goes North behind the Stable-yard Buildings, and behind
Park-place,
and on the Park-wall behind the Buildings, on the West Side of
St. James's-street,
to the Corner in
Soho,
or
Piccadilly
; then crossing the Road, goes along the North Side of the Road West,
Hyde-park
Gate. 1
Mile,
2
Furlongs,
11
Rods.
3. Then the Line turns North-east by East, and taking in the Buildings and Streets, called
May-fair,
holds on East, till the new Streets, formed out of
Hyde-house
Garden, cause it to turn away North, a Point West reaching to
Tyburn-road,
a little to the East of the great Mother Conduit; then it goes North, and crossing the Road, takes in the West Side of
Cavendish-square,
and the Streets adjoining, and leaving
Marybone,
goes away East, till it reaches to
Hampstead-road,
near a little Village called
Tottenham-court.
2
Miles,
5
Furlongs,
20
Rods.
4. From
Tottenham-court
the Line comes in a little South, to meet the
Bloomsbury
Buildings; then turning East, runs behind
Montague
and
Southampton
Houses, to the North-east Corner of
Southampton-house
; then crossing the Path, meets the Buildings called
Queen's-square
; then turning North, till it comes to the North-west Corner of the Square; thence it goes away East, behind the Buildings on the North Side of
Ormond-street,
till it comes to
Lamb's Conduit.
1
Mile,
1
Furlong,
13
Rods.
5. Here the Line turns South, and indents to the Corner of
Bedford-row
; and leaving some few Houses, with the Cock-pit and Bowling-green, goes on the Back of
Gray's-inn
Wall to
Gray's-inn-lane
; then turns on the Outside of the Buildings, which are on the West Side of
Gray's-inn-lane,
going North to the Stone's End, when turning East, it passes to the
New River
Bridge without
Liquor-pond-street
; so taking in the
Cold-bath
and the
Bear-garden,
but leaving out
A large Mass of Buildings has been erected since our Author drew this Line, consisting of many Streets and Passages, the whole
Cold-bath-fields
being built upon, quite up to
Sir John Oldcastle's.
Sir John Oldcastle's
and the
Spaw,
goes on East by the
Ducking-pond
to the End of
New Bridewell,
and crossing the
Fair-field,
comes into the
Islington
Road by the Distiller's House, formerly Justice
Fuller
's. 1
Mile,
2
Furlongs,
6
Rods.
6. Here, to take in all the Buildings which join
Islington
to the Streets, the Line goes North on the East Side of the Road to the
Turk's-head
Alehouse; then turning North-west, passes to the
New River
House; but leaving it to the West, passes by
Sadler's-wells,
from thence to
Busby's-house,
and keeping on the West Side of
Islington,
till it comes opposite to
Canbury-house-lane,
turns into the Road, and passes South almost to the Lane which turns East down to the lower Street; but then turns East without the Houses, and goes to the
Cowkeeper
's in the lower Street crossing the Road, and thro' the
Cowkeeper
's Yard into
Frog-lane
; then turning West on the South Side of the Town, just without the Buildings, joins again to the Buildings on the West Side of
Wood's-close,
passing behind the
Sheep-market
Wall. 2
Miles,
4
Furlongs,
39
Rods.
7. From
Wood's-close
the Line goes due East to
Mount-mill,
where, leaving several Buildings to the North, it passes on, crossing all the Roads to
Bricklane,
to the North Side of the great new Square in
Oldstreet,
and taking in the
Pesthouse
Wall, turns South at the North-east Corner of the said Wall to
Oldstreet
Road; then going away East till it meets the Buildings near
Hoxton-square,
it turns North to the North-west Corner of the Wall of
Ask
's Hospital; then sloping North-east, it passes by
Pimlico,
the
Cyder-house,
and the two Walls to the North End of
Hoxton,
when it turns East, and inclosing the Garden-walls, comes into the
Ware
Road just at the
King's-head
in the New Buildings by the
Land of Promise.
2
Miles,
16
Rods.
8. From the
King's-head
the Line turns South, running to the Stone's End in
Shoreditch
; then turning East, it takes in a Burying-ground, and some Buildings in the
Hackney
Road, when sloping South-east by South, it goes away by the
Virginia-house
to a great Brewhouse, and then still more East to the Back of
Wheeler-street,
and then East by South to
Brick-lane,
crossing which, it goes away East towards
Bethnal-green
; but then turning short South, it goes towards
White-chapel Mount
; but being intercepted by new Streets, it goes quite up to the South End of the
Dog-row
at
Mile-end.
1
Mile,
6
Furlongs,
19
Rods.
9. From the
Dog-row
the Line crosses the Road, and takes in a Hamlet of Houses, called
Stepney
; and coming back West to the Street's End at
Whitechapel Mill,
goes away South by the
Hog-houses
into
Church-lane,
and to
Rag-fair
; when turning again East, it continues in a strait Line on the North Side of
Ratcliff Highway,
till it comes almost to the farthe
Glass-houses
; then turning North, it surrounds all
Stepney,
and
Stepney-causway,
to
Mile-end
Road; then turning East again, and afterwards South, comes back to the new Streets on the North Side of
Limehouse,
and joining the Marsh, comes down to the Water-side at the Lower Shipwright Dock in
Limehouse-hole.
3
Miles,
7
Furlongs,
1
Rod.
The Particulars of the
Middlesex
Side, put together, are as follows;
viz.
 
Miles.
Furl.
Rods.
1.
1 :
6 :
16
2.
1 :
2 :
11
3.
2 :
5 :
20
4.
1 :
1 :
13
5.
1 :
2 :
6
6.
2 :
4 :
39
7.
2 :
0 :
16
8.
1 :
6 :
19
9.
3 :
7 :
1
Total
18 :
4 :
21
N.B.
This Line leaves out all the North Side of
Mile-end
Town, from the End of the
Dog-row
to the
Jews
Burying-Ground, which is all built; also all the North Part of the
Dog-row,
and all
Bethnal-green
; also
Poplar
and
Black-wall,
which are indeed contiguous, a Trifle of Ground excepted, and very populous.
For the
Southwark
Side of the Buildings, the Line is as follows:
HAving ended the Circumference of the
Middlesex
Building at
Lime-house,
and the Street extending towards
Poplar,
the Hamlets of
Poplar
and
Blackwall,
tho' very near contiguous in Buildings, being excluded, I allow an Interval of two Miles, from
Poplar,
cross the
Isle of Dogs,
and over the
Thames,
to the Lower Water-gate at
Deptford
; and tho' in measuring the Circumference of all Cities, the River, where any such runs thro' Part of the Buildings, is always measured; yet, that I may not be said to stretch the Extent of the Buildings which I include in this Account, I omit the River from
Limehouse
to
Deptford,
(where, if included, it ought to begin) and begin my Line as above.
1. From the said Water-gate at
Deptford,
the Line goes East to the Corner next the
Thames,
where the Shipwright's Yard now is, and where I find a continued Range of Buildings begins by the Side of a little Creek or River, which runs into the
Thames
there, and reaches quite up the said River, to the Bridge in the great
Kentish
Road, and over the Street there, taking in the South Side of the Street to the West Corner of the Buildings in that Street, and then measuring down on the West Side of the long Street, which runs to the
Thames
Side, till you come to the new Street which passes from
Deptford
to
Rotherhith
; then turning to the Left, passing on the Back-side of the
King's Yard
to Mr.
Evelin
's House, including the new Church of
Deptford,
and all the new Streets or Buildings made on the Fields Side, which are very many, this amounts in the Whole, to 3
Miles,
1
Furlong,
16
Rods.
2. From Mr.
Evelin
's Garden-gate the Line goes North-west, taking in all the new Docks and Yards, the
Red-house,
and several large Streets of Houses, which have been lately built, and by which the said Town of
Deptford
is effectually joined to the Buildings, reaching from
Cuckolds-point
Eastward, and which are carried out, as if
Rotherhith
stretched forth its Arm to embrace
Deptford
; then for some Length
Rotherhith
continues narrow till you come to
Church-street,
where several Streets are also lately built South, and others parallel with the Street, till gradually the Buildings thicken, and extend farther and farther to the South, and South by East, till they cross over the East End of
Horslydown
to
Bermondsey
Church, and thence East to the Sign of the
World's-end,
over-against the great Fort, being the Remains of the Fortifications drawn round these Parts of
Southwark
in the late Civil Wars. This Extent is, by Computation, Four Miles; but being measured as the Streets indented, the Circuit proved 5
Miles,
6
Furlongs,
12
Rods.
3. From this Fort to the Corner of
Long-lane,
and thro'
Long-lane
to the
Lock,
at the End of
Kent-street,
is 1
Mile,
7
Furlongs,
2
Rods.
4. From the Corner of
Kent-street
to the Town of
Newington-butts,
drawing the Line behind all the Buildings as they stand, and round the said Village of
Newington
to the
Haberdashers
Alms-houses, and thence by the Road to the Windmill at
Blackman street,
is 3
Miles,
2
Furlongs,
16
Rods.
5. From the Windmill crossing
St. George's-fields,
on the Back of the
Mint,
to the
Fighting Cocks,
thence to the
Restoration Gardens,
and thence on the Outside of all the Buildings to
Lambeth-wells,
and on to
Vaux-hall
Bridge, over-against the other Fort of the old Fortifications, being just the same Length that those old Fortifications extended, tho' infinitely fuller of Buildings. This last Circuit measures 3
Miles,
5
Furlongs,
12
Rods.
The Particulars of the
Southwark
Side, put together
The Town of
Greenwich,
which may indeed be said to be contiguous to
Deptford,
might be also called a Part of the Measurement; but I omit it, as I have the Towns of
Chelsea
and
Knightsbridge
on the other Side, tho' the latter actually joins the Town, and the other, as also
Kensington,
very nearly.
, are as follow;
viz.
 
Miles.
Furl.
Rods.
1.
3 :
1 :
16
2.
5 :
6 :
12
3.
1 :
7 :
2
4.
3 :
2 :
16
5.
3 :
5 :
12
 
17 :
6 :
18
Middlesex
Side
18 :
4 :
21
Total
36 :
2 :
39
Were it possible to reduce all these Buildings to a compact Situation, 'tis generally thought, that the whole Body so put together, allowing the necessary Ground, which they now imploy for the several Trades in the Out-parts, such as the Building-yards by the River for Shipwrights, Tanners Yards, Dyers, Whitsters,
&c.
would take up 28 Miles in Circumference, very compactly built.
The Guesses that are made at the Number of Inhabitants, have been variously formed; Mr.
Maitland
above-mentioned (
Anno
1739) computes, that within the Walls, and the Bars, as I may say, it contains 725, 903; but Sir
William Petty,
famous for his Political Arithmetick, supposed the City, at his last Calculation, to contain a Million of People, and this he judges from the Number of Births and Burials; but he must take in a greater Compass than Mr.
Maitland,
to make up this Number; and according to this Rule, as well by what is well known of the Increase of the said Births and Burials, as of the prodigious Increase of Buildings, it may be very reasonable to conclude the present Number of Inhabitants
within the Circumference I have mentioned in my Line,
to amount to about 1,500,000 Souls.
The Government of this great Mass of Building, and of such a vast collected Body of People, tho' it consists of various Parts, is perhaps the best regulated that any City can pretend to; and of late Years it boasts of several new Regulations, as to Beggars, Lights, Pavements,
&c.
which turn out greatly to its Advantage.
The Government of the City of
London
in particular, and abstractedly considered, is by the Lord-Mayor, Twenty-four Aldermen, Two Sheriffs, the Recorder, and Common Council; but the Jurisdiction of these is confined to that Part only which they call the City and its Liberties, which are mark'd out, except the
Borough,
by the Walls and the Bars, as they are called.
Besides this, the Lord Mayor and Aldermen of
London
have a Right Presidial in
Southwark,
and hold frequent Courts at
St. Mary-hill
in the
Borough:
they are also Conservators of the Bridge, and the Bridge itself is their particular Jurisdiction.
Also the Lord Mayor,
&c.
is Conservator of the River
Thames,
from
Stanes
Bridge in
Surrey
and
Middlesex,
to the River
Medway
in
Kent,
and, as some insist, up the
Medway
to
Rochester
Bridge.
The Government of the Out-parts is by Justices of the Peace, and by the Sheriffs of
London,
who are likewise Sheriffs of
Middlesex
; and the Government of
Westminster
is by a High-bailiff, constituted by the Dean and Chapter, to whom the Civil Administration is committed, and who presides in Elections of Parliament for the City of
Westminster,
and returns the Candidates who are chosen.
The remaining Part of
Southwark
Side, where the City Jurisdiction does not obtain, is governed also by a Bench of Justices, and their proper substituted Peace-officers; excepting out of this the Privileges of the
Marshalseas,
or of the
Marshal's Court,
the Privilege of the
Marshal
of the
King's-bench,
and the like.
That I may observe some Method in the Description of this noble Metropolis, and avoid Repetitions, I will divide my Subject into the following Branches.
I. I will give a brief Account of what the City was before the Fire, and how improved when rebuilt, and within a few Years after it.
II. Of the prodigious Increase of Buildings within our own Memory, down to the Year 1740,
III. Of the Publick Offices, and City Corporations.
IV. Of the Mansion-house, and other most noted Edifices, Structures and Squares, in and about
London.
V. Of the principal Hospitals, and other charitable Institutions in about
London.
VI. Of the Churches of
London
and
Westminster, Southwark,
&c.
VII. Of
St. James
's Palace, the Parliament-house,
Westminster-hall,
&c.
VIII. Of the Statues, and other Publick Ornaments.
IX. Of the Gates of
London
and
Westminster.
X. Of the Publick and Private Prisons.
XI. Of the Markets of
London,
&c.
XII. Of the Publick Schools and Libraries.
XIII. Of the Shipping in the
Thames,
and the Trade carry'd on by means of that noble River.
XIV. Of the Manner by which the City is supply'd with Water.
XV. Of the Christenings and Burials in
London.
The Importance of the City of
London
to the whole Kingdom: Of its comparative Proportion to the Publick Expence, and the disproportionate Number of Members it returns.
XVI. The Benefit to the Publick of a good Understanding between the Court and City.
To begin then with the first;
viz.
I.
I.
A brief Account of what the City was before the Fire, and how improved when rebuilt, and within a few Years after it.
TAKE the City, and its adjacent Buildings, to stand as described by Mr.
Stow,
or by any other Author, who wrote before the Fire of
London
; and the Difference between what it was then, and what it is now, may be observed thus:
Before the Fire of
London, Anno
1666, the Buildings look'd as if they had been formed to make one general Bonfire, whenever any wicked Incendiaries should think fit to attempt it; for the Streets were not only narrow, and the Houses all built with Timber, Lath, and Plaster; but the Manner of the Building in those Days, one Story projecting out beyond another, was such, that in some narrow Streets the Houses almost touch'd one another at the Top; insomuch that it often happened, that if a House was on Fire, the opposite House was in more Danger, according as the Wind stood, than the Houses adjoining on either Side.
And tho' by the new Buildings after the Fire much Ground was given up to inlarge the Streets, yet it is to be observed, that the old Houses stood generally upon more Ground, were much larger upon the Flat, and in many Places Gardens and large Yards about them, so that there are many more Houses built than stood before on the same Ground. For Example:
Swithen
's
Alleys
by the
Royal Exchange
were all, before the Fire, taken up with one single Merchant's House, Mr.
Swithen
by Name; whereas, upon the same Ground where the House stood, stand now about 22 or 24 Houses, which belong to his Posterity.
Copt-hall Court
in
Throgmorton-street
was also, before the Fire, a single House, inhabited by a
Dutch
Merchant: likewise Three more Courts in the same Streets were single Houses, Two on the same Side of the Way, and one on the other.
The several Alleys behind
St. Christopher
's Church, now vulgarly called
St. Christopher's Church-yard,
were likewise, before the Fire, one great House, with Ware-houses, in which Mr.
Kendrick
lived; whom I have mentioned in my Account of
Reading
and
Newbury,
and took up almost all the Ground, on which now a Street of Houses is erected, called
Prince's-street,
going thro' into
Lothbury.
King's-Arms Yard
in
Coleman-street,
now built into fine large Houses, and inhabited by eminent Merchants, was, before the Fire, a Stable-yard for Horses, and an Inn, which gave the Sign of the
King's Arms.
I might give many more Instances; but these will account for what some assert;
viz.
That so many great Houses were converted into Streets, Courts, Alleys and Buildings, that near 4000 Houses stand on the Ground which the Fire left desolate, more than stood on the same Ground before.
Another Increase of Buildings in the City, is to be taken from the Inhabitants in the unburnt Parts following the same Example, of pulling down great old Buildings, which took up large Tracks of Ground in some of the well inhabited Places, and building on the same Ground not only several Houses, but even whole Streets of Houses, which are since fully inhabited: For Example,
Crosby-square,
within
Bishopsgate,
formerly the House of Sir
James Langham,
Merchant.
Devonshire-Square
and
Street,
with several back Streets, and Passages into
Petticoat-lane
one Way, and
Houndsditch
another, all built on the Ground where the old Earl of
Devonshire
had an House and Garden.
Bridgwater-square,
and several Streets adjoining, built on the Ground where the Earl of
Bridgwater
had a large House and Garden in
Barbican.
Billeter-square,
and several Passages adjoining, built upon the Grounds of one great House, in which one Merchant only lived.
All those Palaces of the Nobility, formerly makeing a most beautiful Range of Buildings fronting the
Strand,
with their Gardens reaching to the
Thames,
where they had their particular Water-gates and Stairs, have had the same Fate, such as
Essex, Arundel, Norfolk, Salisbury, Worcester, Exeter, Hungerford,
and
York
Houses; the Lord
Brook
's House in
Holbourn,
in the Place of which are now so many noble Streets and Houses erected, as are in themselves equal to a large City; all which extend from the
Temple
to
Northumberland-house, Somerset-house
and the
Savoy
only intervening; and the latter of these may be said to be, not an House, but a little Town, being separated into innumerable Tenements and Apartments.
These are prodigious Inlargements to the City, even upon that which I call inhabited Ground, and where infinite Numbers of People now live, more than lived upon the same Spot of Ground before.
Suoh was the State of
London
before the Fire in 1666, and so prodigious were the Improvements made in it, within the Course of a few Years after that Disaster. But what are these, compared to what has been done since within our own Memory? And this brings me to my second Article,
II. Of the prodigious Increase of Buildings within our own Memory, down to the Year 1740.
NOT to enter on a particular Description of the Buildings, I shall only take notice of the Places where such Inlargements are made: As,
1. All those numberless Ranges of Building, called
Spital-fields,
reaching from
Spital-yard
at
Northern Fallgate,
and from
Artillery-lane
in
Bishopsgate-street,
with all the new Streets, beginning at
Hoxton
and the Back of
Shoreditch
Church North, and reaching to
Brick-lane,
and to the End of
Hare-street,
on the Way to
Bethnal-green
East; then sloping away quite to
Whitechapel
Road South-east, containing, as some People say, above 320 Acres of Ground, which are now close built, and inhabited with an infinite Number of People.
The Lanes were deep, dirty and unfrequented; that Part now called
Spitalfields-market
was a Field of Grass, with Cows feeding on it, since the Year 1670. The
Old Artillery-ground
(where the Parliament listed their first Soldiers against the King) took up all those long Streets leading out of
Artillery-lane
to
Spital-yard Back gate,
and so on to the End of
Wheeler-street. Brick-lane,
which is now a long well-paved Street, was a deep dirty Road, frequented chiefly by Carts fetching Bricks that way into
Whitechapel
from Brick-kilns in those Fields, whence it had its Name.
2. On the more Eastern Part the same Increase goes on in Proportion; namely, all
Goodman's-fields,
and the many Streets between
Whitechapel
and
Rosemary-lane,
all built since the Year 1678.
Well-close,
now called
Marine square,
all the hither or West End of
Ratcliff-highway,
from the Corner of
Gravel-lane
to the East End of
East Smithfield,
was a Road over the Fields; likewise those Buildings now called
Virginia-street,
and all the Streets on the Side of
Ratcliff-highway
to
Gravel-lane
above-named, which of late Years extends so far, that the End of
Lime-house
stands a Chance to be soon joined to the Beginning of
Poplar.
3. To come to the North Side of the Town, and beginning at
Shoreditch
West, and
Hoxton square,
and
Charles-square
adjoining, those were all open Fields, from
Agnes St. Clare,
to
Hoxton
Town, till the Year 1689, or thereabout.
Pitfield-street
was a Bank, parting two Pasture-grounds, and
Ask
's Hospital was another open Field. Farther West the like Addition of Buildings begins at the Foot-way by the
Pest-house,
and includes the
French
Hospital,
Old-street
Two Squares, and several Streets, extending from
Brick-lane
to
Mount-mill
and the Road to
Islington,
and from that Road, still West, to
Wood's-close,
and to
St. John's
and
Clerkenwell,
all which Streets and Squares are built since the Years 1688 and 1689, and were before that, and some for a long Time after, open Fields or Gardens, and never built on till after that Time; and moreover, within these few Years, all those open Grounds, called
Bunhill-fields,
adjoining to the
Dissenters
Burying-ground, are now built upon, and are complete Streets of Houses to the very Road, and generally well inhabited.
From hence we go on still West, and beginning at
Gray's-Inn,
and going on to those formerly called
Red-lion
Fields, and
Lamb's-conduit
Fields, we see there prodigious Piles of Buildings; they begin at
Gray's-Inn-Wall
towards
Red-lion-street,
from whence, in a strait Line, they go quite to
Lamb's-conduit
Fields North, including a great Range of Buildings reaching to
Bedford-row
and the
Cockpit
East, and including
Red-lion-square, Ormond-street, Great
and
Little Marlborough-streets, Queen's-square,
and all the Streets between the Square and
King's-gate
in
Holbourn.
These Piles are very great, and the Houses so magnificent and large, that abundance of Persons of Quality are found among them.
Farther West in the same Line is
Southampton
great Square, called
Bloomsbury,
with
Kingstreet
on the East Side of it, and all the numberless Streets West of the Square to the Market-place, and thro' Great
Russel-street
by
Montagu-house
quite into the
Hampstead
Road; all which Buildings, except
Southampton-house,
and some of the Square, have been formed from the open Fields since the Time above-mentioned, and contain several Thousands of Houses.
The Increase of the Buildings in
St. Gyles's
and
St. Martin's in the Fields,
is really a kind of Prodigy; comprising all the Buildings North of
Long-acre,
up to the
Seven Dials
; all the Streets from
Leicesterfields
and
St. Martin's-lane,
both North and West, to the
Hay-market
and
Scho,
and from the
Hay-market
to
St. James's-street
inclusive, and to the Park-wall; then all the Buildings on the North Side of the Street, called
Picadilly,
and the Road to
Knights-bridge,
and between that and the South Side of
Tyburn
Road, including
Soho-square, Golden-square, Hanover-square
Two
Bond-streets, George's-street,
and that new
out to
Tyburn
Road, called
Grosv
square,
and
Cavendish-square,
and all the
them. Some Part of which will be briefly mentioned under the Head of
Squares.
This last Addition is by Calculation more in Bulk than the Cities of
Bristol, Exeter
and
York,
if they were all put together; all which Places were, a few Years ago, mere Fields of Grass, and imployed only to feed Cattle.
In
Spring-gardens,
near
Charing-cross,
are lately erected several very handsome new Buildings, and a neat Chapel.
The new Buildings in the End of
Broad-street,
near
Bishopsgate,
formerly called
Petty-France,
deserve to be mentioned here. It is in every one's Memory, what a poor and decay'd Place
Petty-France
was; but now the Spot where it stood, is called
New Broad-street,
and consists of regular and stately Houses, built after the Manner of those by
Hanover-square,
and are the most elegant Buildings in the City. They are increased quite into
Old Bethlehem,
which consisted of mean and ruinous Houses, and there may be said to be a new and stately Town of Buildings erected here.
And it would be endless to enumerate the other new Buildings, that have taken Place in and about this great City, of old and ruinous Houses and Streets.
See the Articles of
Churches, Squares,
&c.
III. Of the Publick Offices, and City Corporations.
THE EXCISE-OFFICE is kept in the
Old Jewry,
in a very large House, formerly the Dwelling of Sir
John Frederick,
and afterwards of Sir
John Hern,
very considerable Merchants. In this one Office is managed an immense Weight of Business, and they have in Pay several Thousands of Officers. The whole Kingdom is divided by them into proper Districts, and to every District a Collector, a Supervisor, and a certain Number of Gaugers, called, by the Vulgar,
Excise-men.
Under the Management of this Office are now brought not only the Excise upon Beer, Ale, and other Liquors, as formerly, but also the Duties on Malt and Candles, Hops, Soap, and Leather, Coffee, Tea, and Chocolate; all which we managed in several Classes.
The Act lately passed against retailing spirituous Liquors in less Quantities than Two Gallons, which had become so pernicious a Trade, that the lower Class of People was almost wholly debauched and enervated by it, has very much increased the Consequence, as well as the Business, of this Office; for the Commissioners for what relates to this Matter, are a kind of absolute Judges in the Cases brought before them.
The POST-OFFICE is kept in
Lombard-street
in a large House, formerly Sir
Robert Viner
's, and is under an admirable Management. The
Peny-post
is a Branch of it, and a most useful Addition to Trade and Business; for by it Letters are delivered at the remotest Corners of the Town, almost as soon as they could be fent by a Messenger, and that from Four, Five, Six, to Eight times a Day, according as the Distance of the Place makes it practicable; insomuch that you may send a Letter from
Limehouse
in the East, to the farthest Part of
Westminster,
for a Peny, several times in the same Day; and to the neighbouring Villages, as
Kensington, Hamersmith, Chiswick,
&c. Westward;
Newington, Islington, Kentish-town, Hampstead, Holloway, Highgate,
&c. Northward; to
Newington-butts, Camberwell,
&c. Southward; and
Stepney, Poplar, Bow, Stratford, Deptford, Greenwich,
&c. Eastward, once a Day.
Nor are you tied up to a single Piece of Paper, as in the
General Post-office
; but any Packet under a Pound-weight goes at the same Price.
The CUSTOM-HOUSE comes next to be mentioned. The
Long Room
is like an
Exchange
every Morning, and the Croud of People who appear there, and the Business they do, is not to be explained by Words. The whole Building is very convenient, but not like what it might or ought to have been; and moreover, the Quays thereabouts are so throng'd and crouded, that they are much too little for the Business continually carrying on there.
Between the Horse-guards at
Whitehall
and
Charing-cross,
at an huge Expence, but with very little Taste, is seen the new-erected ADMIRALTY-OFFICE. This Office is, perhaps, of the most Importance of any of the publick Parts of the Administration; the Royal Navy being the Sinews of our Strength.
The NAVY-OFFICE, a neat and convenient Building in
Cruched-fryars,
and the VICTUALLING-OFFICE on
Tower-hill,
near
East Smithfield,
both which, had we room, deserve a particular Description, are but Branches of this Administration, and receive their Orders from hence; as do likewise the Docks and Yards theirs from the
Navy-office:
the Whole being carried on with the most exquisite Order and Dispatch. The
Admiralty
has been in Commission ever since the Death of Prince
George
of
Denmark.
The Commissioners so often change by Deaths or Removals, that it will be of very little Use to insert them in a Work like this.
Tho' his MAJESTY resides all the Winter at
St. James
's, yet the Business of the Government is chiefly carried on at the
Cockpit, Whitehall.
Near which is lately finished a magnificent Building, with a very grand Front looking to the Parade in
St. James
's-
park,
for the TREASURY-OFFICE; and, it being a lofty Structure, over that is the OFFICE of the SECRETARIES OF STATE.
The OFFICE for the BOARD OF TRADE is held just by the Upper-end of the
Privy-garden,
adjoining to an old Gate at the Entrance of
King-street,
which is now demolish'd. It is a large House, and convenient for the Purpose.
At the Horse-guards is a Building commodious enough, built as a Barrack for a large Detachment of the Horse-guards, who keep Post here; over it are Offices belonging to the Judge-advocate for holding Councils of War for Trial of Deserters and others, according to the Articles of War.
A new Office and House is very lately erected, adjoining to the Horse-guards, for the Paymaster-general of the Army.
The BANK used to be kept in
Grocers-hall
; but is within these few Years removed to an intire new Edifice, built for that thriving Corporation in
Threadneedle-street,
adjoining to
St. Christopher
's Church. It is a noble Structure; but I have not room for a particular Description of it.
The EAST INDIA HOUSE, situated where formerly was that of Sir
William Craven,
was rebuilt in the Year 1726. It is very convenient within; but without makes not the Appearance that is worthy of the Company's Trade and Figure in the World, its Front being not extended enough. In the back Part towards
Lime-street,
they have also Warehouses, which were rebuilt in a very handsome manner,
Anno
1725.
The AFRICAN COMPANY'S HOUSE is in the same Street; a convenient House, which serves for all the Offices their Business requires.
The SOUTH-SEA HOUSE is situate in a large Spot of Ground between
Broad-street
and
Threadneedle-street.
At first two large Houses were taken in to form the whole Office; but, as they were streighten'd for Room, and were obliged to summon their General Courts at
Merchant Taylors-hall,
hard by; so they have lately erected a new Building for the whole Business, which my Limits will not permit me particularly to describe.
The YORK-BUILDINGS COMPANY has been struggling for some Years past with the great Difficulties into which it has been plunged by the Fatality attending some late Transactions, and I shall say no more of it here.
Here are also several great Offices for Societies of INSURERS, where almost all Hazards may be insured. The Four principal are called, 1.
The Royal Exchange Insurance,
kept in a Part of the
Royal Exchange.
2.
The Royal Insurance,
kept in
Cornhill.
3.
The
Hand-in-hand Fire-office,
kept on
Snow-hill.
4.
The Sun Fire-office,
in
Threadneedle-street.
In the Two first, all Hazards by Sea of Ships and Goods, not Lives, are insured; as also Houses and Goods are insured from Fire.
In the last Two, only Houses and Goods.
In all which Offices the
Premio
is so small, and the Recovery, in case of Loss, so easy and certain, that nothing can be shewn like it in the World.
There are also Offices of INSURANCE ON LIVES, the
Union Fire-office
in
Gutter-lane,
the
Westminster Fire-office,
and others, which manage a great deal of Business in the same way.
The CHARITABLE CORPORATION OFFICE is in
Spring-garden.
A Society that set out with laudable Pretensions; but many Hundreds of People have found to their Cost, that the best Pretences are often made a Cloak for the worst Practices.
Fair and Softly
is now the Word with them: and 'tis fit a profound Stilness should succeed the boisterous Storm they occasioned, in which the Fortunes of Multitudes of innocent Subjects suffered a Wreck, which they will never recover.
The Offices of ORDNANCE and the MINT for Coining Money, are kept in the Tower of
London.
IV. Of the
Mansion-house,
and other most noted Edifices, Squares, and Publick Structures in and about
London.
1. THAT beautiful Column, called the
Monument,
erected at the Charge of the City, to perpetuate the fatal Burning of the Whole, cannot be mentioned but with some due Respect to the Building itself, as well as to the City. It is 202 Feet high, and exceeds all the Obelisks and Pillars of the Antients. There is a Stair-case in the Middle, to ascend to the Balcony, which is about 30 Feet short of the Top, and whence there are other Steps made even to look out at the Top of all, which is fashioned like an Urn, with a Flame issuing from it.
The Lord Mayors of this famous Metropolis have been hitherto forced to content themselves with residing in some one or other of the stately Halls of the City Companies, hired for that Purpose; an Inconvenience which was equally unworthy of the Grandeur of the great Officer, and of the City over which he presided, and which now will be soon remedied; for on the 25th Day of
October
1739, the chief Corner-stone of the Mansion-house was laid by the Right Honourable
Micajah Perry,
Esq
then Lord Mayor, and by the Committee appointed for that Purpose, in the Place where
Stocks-market
used to be kept, with an Inscription on it signifying as much, and giving the Names of the Gentlemen of the said Committee, the Sheriffs, and the Architect; but perhaps it may be as much to the latter Gentleman's Credit, not to name him, as to name him; for Connoisseurs find so many Faults with the Design, that if what they say is true, tho' it may be a costly Building, yet will it not do any great Honour to this famous Metropolis, among good Judges.
The
Royal Exchange
is the greatest Burse in the World. It is so well known, and has been so often described, that it is unnecessary for me to enter upon it here. 'Tis said, that it cost above 80,000
l.
in building; and yet the Interest of the Money was a great while answered by the Rent made of the Shops and Vaults: but now the Trade that used to be carried on there, is so dispersed in other Places, that it cannot be supposed to do so. According to Architectural Criticism, the Building has numerous Faults: the Turret is egregiously bad, tho' a very expensive Part of the Structure.
The Hospital of
Bethlehem
is a noble Pile; but we shall take notice of it under the Head of HOSPITALS.
The
South-Sea House,
the
Bank,
the
East-India House,
&c. also the
Treasury,
the
Admiralty,
the
Custom-house,
the
Excise,
and other Publick Offices, are taken notice of under the preceding Article of PUBLICK OFFICES,
&c.
The
College of Physicians
in
Warwick-lane
is a beautiful and magnificent Structure, built of Brick and Stone, and is one of the finest Ornaments of the City, tho' built in a Place where all its Beauties are in a manner buried. We have not room to be so particular in its Description as it very well deserves; but we shall take notice, that in the Front of the Hall towards the Court, is a Statue of King
Charles
II. well cut in Stone.
On the West-side of the Theatre is another, of Sir
John Cutler
; and in
June
1739, a very fine Busto, carved out of a Block of White Marble, was erected in the great Hall of this College, to the Honour of the famous Dr.
Harvey,
with the following Inscription on its Marble Pediment.
Hanc magni illius
GULIELMI HARVEIJ
Senis Octogenar
Imaginem Qui Sanguinis Circuitum Primus monstravit, Medicinamque rationalem instituit, Ad Picturam Archetypam, Quam in suo servat M
se
, effi
tam, Hororis Causá Hic p
nendam curavit
RICHARDUSMEAD, Med. Reg.
A. D.
M.DCC.XXXIX.
In
English
thus:
Richard Mead,
Physician to his Majesty, caused this Statue of the Great
William Harvey,
who first demonstrated the Circulation of the Blood, and instituted a rational Course of Medicine, to be here erected in the Year 1739, in Token of his Veneration, according to the original Picture, drawn at 80 Years of Age, which he keeps in his own Library.
The
Surgeons
Theatre in
Monkwell-street
is a fine Piece of Architecture, admirably disposed for Seeing and Hearing; the Work of the famous
Inigo Jones.
The noble Earl of
Burlington,
out of Love to the Memory of this Architect, was pleased to repair it at his own Charge.
In the Hall of this Theatre is a capital Picture of
Hans Holbein,
in which is the Portrait of King
Henry
VIII. sitting in his Chair, delivering the Charter which he granted to the College of Physicians,
&c.
It is said, the Company have been offered 800
l.
for this Piece; for it is highly valuable as it is the only remaining Picture of the first Painter of Note in this Kingdom (his celebrated Piece, called
The Dance of Death,
being destroy'd by Fire); and not only presents the King taken from the Life, but also the most eminent Physicians of that Time, when the Incorporation was granted; and excepting the famous Family-piece, by
Titian,
in the Possession of the Duke of
Somerset,
and another of the
Pembroke
Family, at
Wilton,
painted by
Vandyke,
it is esteemed the most valuable
Portrait-picture
in the Kingdom.
Thanet-house,
in
Aldersgate-street,
built by
Inigo Jones,
is intirely worthy of him; but it is now let out to a Tavern, and other Trades, as unworthy of its Founder, as of its Architect.
The Palace of the Bishop of
London
is over-against it. It is an old Building, and no otherwise remarkable, than that it is let out to Tradesmen chiefly, and has not been for a great while the Residence of its Bishop, who has a Country Palace at
Fulham
; and the Air of the
Court
being judged better than that of the
City, Whitehall
has been preferred to it for a Town-residence.
Several Acts of Parliament have passed within these few Years, for building a new Bridge over the
Thames
at
Westminster,
and Three successive Lotteries have been given for that End. It was at first resolved to be built at the
Horse-ferry
over to
Lambeth
; but those who had most Influence changing their Minds, the Design was altered, and it is now begun at the
Woolstaple,
near
Palace-yard,
and is to be carry'd to
Stangate
on the opposite Side. Great Powers are given by this Act to Commissioners to agree with Persons who own Houses and Lands on either Shore: and they intend to pull down whole Streets about
Palace-yard,
and
Channing-row,
besides what they are to do on the
Surry
Side, for the more commodious Passage to it. In short, if the Plan be pursued that is proposed, it will be a very considerable Work: but yet, we must say, that the greatest Part of the Expence would have been saved, had it been built where first proposed; and as the Money is raised by Lotteries, which are always of pernicious Consequence to Trade, it had been perhaps as well, in the present Juncture of the publick Affairs, that the nearest way had been followed: and I may presume to intimate, that tho' the Horse-ferry were to be rejected, yet
Scotland-yard,
which is a great Body of ruinous or decaying Buildings, and joins to
Whitehall,
and to which the main Streets point, leading down from
Pall-mall, Picadilly,
&c. by
Charing-cross,
would have been, in my humble Opinion, a preferable Situation. 'Tis certain it might have been effected there, not only with more Conveniency, but at an easy Expence to what now must be the Case; and there had been no need to have pulled down the Houses of Tradesmen, and others, which brought in tolerable Rents, by their Vicinity to
Westminster-hall,
and the Two Houses of Parliament. Several Stone Piers are already erected in the
Thames,
and they are proceeding with one of the noblest Streets of Houses, that are any where to be seen, fronting
Palace-yard.
And here we shall leave it for this time, chusing rather to describe
what is,
than what is
designed to be
; since the Time this Work will take up still, may subject it to several Alterations, now not easy to be foreseen.
The new-built Houses of the Dukes of
Montagu
and
Richmond,
in the
Privy-Garden,
are convenient and noble Structures.
The
Meuse,
near
Charing-Cross,
where the King's Horses are kept, and the Coaches of State set up, is a very large kind of Square; but the Buildings being old, and unworthy of the Situation, as well as of the Use, are, as 'tis said, to be pulled down, and built in a beautiful manner. The principal Range at the upper End is already finish'd; and when the other Parts are completed, it will be one of the finest Things of its kind in
Europe.
On the right Side of the Street, coming from
Whitehall,
is
Northumberland-house,
belonging to the Duke of
Somerset
in Right of Marriage.
It is an antient, but large and well-design'd Building, and fit to receive a Retinue of One hundred in Family; nor does the Duke's Family come so far short of the Number, as not very handsomely to fill the House.
Carlton
House and Gardens, adjoining to St.
James
's Park, belong to his Royal Highness the Prince of
Wales
; who has built an Octagon at the West-end of his Garden, which is elegantly furnished. The lower Part is a Grotto, or fine Batheing-room; over which is a Dining-room finely adorn'd with Pictures,
&c.
and with Four Marble Busto's of
Shakespear, Milton, Dryden,
and Mr.
Pope.
On the Outside over the Door, one on each Side, are placed the Busto's of the renown'd King
Alfred
and
Edward the Black Prince,
both so famous in
English
History, with Inscriptions to their Honour, which, at the same time, are equally so to that of the Royal Erector of them, who gives a glorious Specimen therein of what Examples he thinks most worthy of his heroick Imitation.
The noble Houses of the late Dukes of
Marlborough
and
Buckinghamshire
in St.
James
's Park, are too well known to need any particular Description.
The new-built House of the Duke of
Devonshire
in
Picadilly
(that noble one built by the famous
Inigo Jones,
being destroy'd by Fire in 1733); the newly beautified one of the Duke of
Bedford
in
Bloomsbury-Square
; those of the Lord
Bateman,
the Duke of
Queensbury,
General
Wade,
and the late Lord
Bingley
; the noble and extensive Streets of Buildings about
Soho, Grosvenor, Cavendish,
and
Hanover-squares,
with those noble Squares themselves, and the new Alterations in St.
James
's-
square, Red-lion-square, Lincoln's-Inn-Fields
; the new Buildings about
Jockey-Fields, Chancery-lane, Fetter-lane, Serjeants-Inn, Craven-street,
and the
New-Exchange
in the
Strand,
now all built into fine Houses, would take up too much of my Room to particularize; and I can therefore only name them, having so many curious Matters to add in these Letters.
But yet I cannot forbear particularly to mention one Beauty, because it is an Honour to our Country; and that is the great Piazza in
Covent-Garden,
the noblest Square in
Europe,
for Grandeur of the Design, especially with the Beauty of the East Front of that elegant Church, the only Piece the Moderns have yet produced, that can admit of a just Comparison with the Works of Antiquity; where a majestick Simplicity commands the Approbation of the Judicious. The rustick Arcade round the Square is of an excellent Composition; above which is a grand Story and an Attick, and the Windows dress'd with a regular Entablature.
I must but slightly mention, for the Reasons already given, the new Road in
Hyde-park,
the Reservoirs in the Two Parks, the late Queen's Library,
&c.
which may just serve as a Hint to Travellers who have less upon their Hands than I have upon mine.
V. Of the principal Hospitals and other Charitable Institutions in and about the City of
London.
NO City in the World can shew the like Number of private and publick Charities, as the Cities of
London
and
Westminster.
I have not Room particularly to describe them; and must therefore content myself with giving little more than their Names, and those of their munificent Founders, referring to those larger Works where more ample Accounts and Descriptions may be expected.
1. then, I will mention
Bethlehem
Hospital in
Moorfields,
erected at the Charge of the City,
Anno
16 6, and said to be built after the Model of
Versailles.
This has lately received very great Additions, and is design'd for the Reception of Lunaticks.
2.
Bridewell
is as well an House of Correction as an Hospital. It was formerly the King's City Palace, but given to the City by King
Edward
VI. for the reclaiming of idle Persons, Vagrants,
&c.
and for bringing up Lads to Handicraft Businesses.
There are Two other Houses of Correction, call'd
Bridewells,
one at
Clerkenwell,
for
Middlesex,
the other in
To
hill-fields
for
Westminster.
3.
Christ's-Hospital,
originally founded by King
Edward
VI. (at the Request of the Lord-Mayor and Aldermen of
London,
and of the pious Martyr Dr.
Ridley,
then Bishop of
London
) for entertaining, educating, nourishing, and bringing up the poor Children of the Citizens, such as, their Parents (or Fathers, at least) being dead, have no other way of Support.
This noble Charity maintains near 1000 poor Children, who have Food, Cloathing, and Instruction, useful and sufficient Learning, and an exceeding good Discipline observ'd; and at the proper Ages they are put out to Trades suitable to their several Genius's and Capacities; and others are taught Mathematicks, Navigation, and Arithmetick, to fit them for private and publick Service. The seeing of these Children at Church on a
Sunday
at
Christ-Church,
and at Supper on
Sunday
Evening, may be reckon'd as fine a Sight as any in
London,
and occasions a constant Resort of People of all Ranks, who admire the Neatness of their Appearance, and the good Management of the House. Dependent on this noble Charity is also an House at
Hertford,
where Diet, Schooling,
&c.
are given to the younger Boys.
4.
St. Bartholomew
's Hospital adjoins to
Christ
's Hospital. Its first Foundation may be said to be owing to King
Henry
VIII. whose Statue in Stone, very well done, is, for that Reason, erected in the new Front, over the Entrance to the
Cloyster
in
West-Smithfield,
with Two Cripples, no mean Pieces of Sculpture, on the Top of the Pediment over his Head. This Hospital has received very great Additions of late Years, and they are going on building still, and 'tis well if they do not overdo it; for they demolish their Houses, and reduce their Estates by it, and leave it upon the Generosity of future Benefactors to support what they are about.
This Hospital relieves about 600 Patients daily with Lodging, Diet, Physick, and Chirurgery.
The
Locke
at
Kingsland,
and that in
Southwark,
belong to
St. Bartholomew
's Hospital, and are used for such as have the foul Disease only.
There generally is under the Care of this Hospital upwards of 5000 poor sick and lame Persons, destitute of other Relief.
5.
St. Thomas's Hospital
in
Southwark
is also a noble Piece of Charity, of the like Nature with that of
St. Bartholomew.
The Church and most of the Hospital was rebuilt in a beautiful manner from the Year 1701 to 1706. It was founded by
Edw.
VI. and Inscriptions are set up in it to the Honour of Mr.
Guy,
Mr.
Frederick,
Sir
Robert Clayton,
the last of whom has his Statue there, as has King
Edw.
VI. lately erected by
Charles Joy,
Esq
late Treasurer of this Hospital.
6.
Guy
's
Hospital
is situated very near
St. Thomas
's
Hospital,
and is perhaps one of the greatest private Charities that was ever known. Its Founder,
Thomas Guy,
was a Bookseller in
Lombard-street.
He lived to see this Work in great Forwardness, and at his Death,
Anno
1724, left about 200,000
l.
to finish and endow it.
Anno
1734, Mr.
Guy
's Statue was erected in the principal Square.
Tho' this Hospital is said to be for Incurables, it is not for such as are absolutely so; for the Founder used to say, That he would not have his Hospital made an Alms-house.
Over and above the 200,000
l.
left to this Hospital, the Founder left as many Legacies, and other Dispositions, as were computed to amount to near 150,000
l.
more.
7. The
London Workhouse,
as it is called, founded on an Act of Parliament passed in the 13th Year of King
Charles
II. is situated without
Bishopsgate,
and is an Edifice consisting of several Work-rooms and Lodging-rooms for Vagrants and Parish-Children.
They have a handsome Chapel built at the upper End of the Yard belonging to the House, where they go to Prayers twice a Day, at Seven in the Morning, and at Seven in the Evening. On
Sundays
they all go to
St. Helen
's, where they have Seats.
The Charity-schools and Workhouses set up in almost every Parish of this prodigious City, have in some measure pursued the Design of this laudable Workhouse; and if they have thereby interfered with it, and taken off some Benefactions that otherwise might have flowed into that Canal, it will be the less to be wondered at.
8. The Hospital called the
Charter-House,
or
Sutton
's Hospital, must be recorded to be the greatest and noblest Gift that ever was given for Charity, by any one Man, publick or private, in this Nation, since History gives us any Account of Things; except we give a Preference to that of Mr.
Guy.
The Revenue of Mr.
Sutton
's Hospital being, besides the Purchase of the Place, and the Building of the House, and other Expences, little less than 6000
l. per Annum
Revenue: it is of so long standing, and its Government,
&c.
so well known, that we shall afford it no further Mention.
The Royal Hospitals of
Greenwich
and
Chelsea
are also not mentioned in this Account, as not being within the Reach of the extended Bounds of the City of
London,
as we have laid them down, and are therefore taken Notice of in their proper Places.
The
Greycoat
and
Greencoat
Hospital in
Tothillfields, Emanuel
Hospital,
Westminster
; that for the Poor of the
French
Refugees, near
Islington
; the
Ironmongers
Alms-houses near
Shoreditch
; Alderman
Aske
's at
Hoxton
; those stately ones of the
Trinity-house,
the
Vintners,
and several others in the Way to
Mile-End
; as also those handsome ones, lately erected by the Will of Mr.
Francis Bancroft,
a Lord-Mayor's Officer, in the same Road, all deserve particular Mention, had I room for it.
But I must say a Word or two of those useful Charities, the Two Infirmaries, one in
James
's-
street, Westminster,
and the other at
Hyde-park Corner,
which have given Birth to the like laudable Institutions in other Parts of the Kingdom. The Design of them is to supply the Places of the Hospitals of
St. Bartholomew
and
St. Thomas
's aforemention'd, there being no such charitable Foundations in the City of
Westminster.
And here the best Order is observ'd, the best Medicines dispensed, and the best Assistances given, as well by Physicians, as Surgeons and Apothecaries, to all who are admitted into these Charities. I shall refer you to the Accounts publish'd by each every Year, for further Particulars of their Institutions, Progress and Success.
In
August
1732, a Corporation was erected for the Relief of poor Officers Widows belonging to the Navy, which allots 45
l. per Ann.
to a Captain's Widow; 30
l.
to a Lieutenant's; and 20
l.
to the Widows of Boatswains, Gunners, Carpenters, Pursers, Surgeons, Second Master of a Yacht, or Master of a Naval Vessel, warranted by the Navy-board; provided the annual Incomes of their Real and Personal Estates do not amount to the aforesaid yearly Sums. To this Charity all Admirals, Captains, Lieutenants and Warrant Officers, pay 3
d. per
Pound out of their Salaries; and his Majesty King
George
II. graciously contributed 10,000
l.
as a Foundation for it.
In the Year 1739, a most useful and long-wish'd-for Charity was establish'd by Royal Charter, in order to found an Hospital for the Maintenance and Education of exposed and deserted young Children, otherwise called Foundlings.
An Act of Parliament has passed for confirming and inlarging the Powers granted by this Charter, and to enable them to execute the good Purposes thereof; and several Meetings of the Governors and Guardians have been held, and Sixty Children have been determined to be admitted for a Beginning; and as many Gentlemen have already subscribed, it is to be hoped, that Succes
will attend this praiseworthy and long-wish'd-for Undertaking. The Governors have hired the House in
Hatton-Garden,
wherein the late Sir
Fisher Tench
lived, till they shall be able to build a proper Hospital, which they intend to do on the North Side of
Ormond-street,
and
Lamb
's Conduit, having purchased of the Earl of
Salisbury
Four Fields of Pasture Land, containing Fifty-six Acres, at the Rate of 7000
l.
for the Purpose.
The Corporation for Clergymens Sons deserves also to be taken Notice of, as an excellent Institution; but we must draw to a Conclusion of this Article.
We shall only further observe in general, That those noble Foundations, added to the innumerable Alms-houses which are to be seen in almost every Part of
London,
make it certain, that there is no City in the World can shew the like Number of Charities from private Hands, there being not less than Twenty thousand People maintain'd of Charity, besides the Charities of Schooling for Children, and besides the Collections at the annual Feasts of several Kinds, where Money is given for putting out Children Apprentices,
&c.
a great Number of which owe their Rise to the Period of Time included in 40 Years past; so that the
Papists
have no Reason to boast, that there were greater Benefactions and Acts of Charity to the Poor given in their Days, than in our Protestant Times. And this is, indeed, one of the principal Reasons for my making mention of it in this Place; for let any particular Age be singled out, and let the Charities of this Age, for about 40 Years past, and the Sums of Money bestowed by Protestants in this Nation on mere Acts of Charity to the Poor, not reckoning Gifts to the Church, be cast up, it will appear they are greater by far, than can be found in
England
in any the like Number of Years, take the Time when we will.
Nor do I include in this, the Money collected by Briefs all over
England,
upon Casualties by Fire, though that is an eminent Act of Charity as any can be; nor the Money given either in publick or private, for Rebuilding
St. Paul
's and other Churches demolished by the Fire of
London,
or the Augmentation of poor Benefices by the Bounty of Queen
Anne,
and many other such Gifts.
VI. Of the Churches of
London, Westminster,
and
Southwark.
THERE are within the Walls of
London,
97 Parishes; without the Walls, 17; in the Out-Parishes in
Middlesex
and
Surrey,
in the Bills of Mortality, 21; and in the City and Liberty of
Westminster,
10; in all, 145. We shall as briefly as possible touch upon the most remarkable Churches.
We must observe in the first Place, That the Churches in
London
are rather convenient than fine, not adorn'd with Pomp and Pageantry, as in
Popish
Countries; but, like the true Protestant Plainness, have very little Ornament either within or without.
But the most famous of all the Churches in the City, and of all the Protestant Churches in the World, is the Cathedral of
St. Paul
; an Edifice exceedingly beautiful and magnificent, with fewer Faults than are to be found in any Building of the like Nature and Extent; tho' some, who would be thought to have Skill in Architecture, are pleased to say there are many, and particularly censure it for its Heaviness, tho' perhaps it would be found, that the Fault is in their not considering separately the Beauty and Proportion of every Part, in order to enter into the Nature and Design of the whole Composition.
The vast Extent of the horizontal Arch of the Cupola, which supports a Stone Lantern near 70 Feet high, may well account for the Strength of the Piers and Butments below: Eight of which support the Whole of that prodigious Weight. And tho' common Observers assert, that those Piers, as also the Piers of all the Arches within-side, are too thick and heavy, yet, whoever knows any thing of the Rules of Architecture, must allow them to be as slender as the Strictness of those Rules would admit of; for the Thickness of each Pier is not one Third Part of the Void of each Arch. And as to the Piers which support the Dome, they, when compar'd with those that support the Cupola of St.
Peter
's at
Rome,
come out to be but one Third Part of the Bigness of the latter, the one measuring 240 Feet in Circumference, the other not quite 80; yet there is not a great deal of Difference in the Dimensions and Weight of the Two Cupola's. For that of
St. Paul
's is considerably larger and higher in Proportion to the Piers that support it, and to the Body of the Church, than that of
St. Peter
's. Wherefore I may venture, upon the whole, to assert, that were we to compare every Part of the Two Buildings together, we shall find
St. Paul
's to be much less liable to the Objection of being a heavy Pile, than
St. Peter
's.
The chief Reason, as I imagine, why this Church is censur'd for Heaviness, is, not that it is really so in itself, but appears so, compar'd with the
Gothick
Architecture, which is more familiar to some Persons than the other, and admits of an extravagant Airiness and Lightness In that
of Building the Designer is bound down to no Rules of Proportion but what his own F
ncy sug
sts
whereas in the other, the Dimens
ns of every individual Member are ascertained, which cannot be deviated from without occasioning a Fault. The Height of every Arch hath a fix'd Proportion to its Breadth; the Doors, Windows and their Ornaments are the same; the Intercolumniations and their Intablatures are all confin'd to certain Admeasurement. But who ever found that Exactness observ'd in any
Gothick
Structure? It must be allowed there are Pieces of that Sort of Architecture, that, in the Whole, look very august and venerable. Yet let any one view the vast Stone Buttresses round the Outside of
Westminster
Abbey, and see what Confusion of Lines, and Breaks they occasion in the Perspective, and they will then easily account for the Lightness of the Inside of that Building; for they are those Buttresses, which by extending so far out, support the whole Structure, more than its Walls or Pillars. This I mention for the sake of common Observers only; for to the Judicious it is altogether unnecessary.
Sir
Christopher Wren
had the Satisfaction to find the injudicious Reprovers of his Work confuted by the Approbation of the best Masters in
Europe,
who allow'd, That the Church of
St. Peter
's at
Rome,
which is the most stupendous Structure in the World, only exceeds
St. Paul
's with respect to the Largeness of its Dimensions, its rich
Mosaick
Work, the beautiful Marble, of which both its Outside and Inside intirely consist, the latter in different Colours, its Statues, Paintings, Gildings, Altars, and Oratories; Ornaments not allowed of in Protestant Churches.
Had the Inside of
St. Paul
's been adorned in as profuse and pompous a Manner as
St. Peter
's, it would have attracted the Admiration of superficial Criticks, so that they would never have been able to discover the Faults they now pretend to find; Faults which can only be attributed to the Plainness of its Materials. But to such as are real Judges, the Harmony, Proportion and Beauty of Buildings are equally admirable, whether they be executed in plain Free-stone, or the most beautiful Marble; whether the Carvings or Mouldings be gilt or not; the Recesses or Panels in the Walls be curiously painted, or only plaister'd.
In the Year 1707, the House of Commons had it under Consideration, whether the Cupola should be cover'd with
This is an authentick Account of the Matter.
Copper or Lead; and upon Inquiry into which was most expedient and least expensive, it appear'd, that the Covering of Lead would amount to about 170 Tons, and the Expence thereof, including Workmanship, was estimated at 2500
l.
The Copper Covering was computed at Eleven Tons, Three hundred, Three Quarters and odd Pounds, and the Expence was estimated at 3050
l.
Upon which the House fixed upon a Copper Covering.
But when the Bill which had a Clause in it for that Purpose, went up to the Lords, their Lordships left out the Clause; upon which the Commons desired a Conference, alleging, that Copper was preferable to any other Covering, as well in respect of Duration as Lightness; for that Lead being subject to frequent Repairs, the necessary Scaffolding for that Purpose at any one time, would exceed the Difference of Charge between that and Copper: besides, that frequent Scaffolding would very much prejudice the Building. But the Sessions closing the same Day, put an End to the Affair, and there were no Conferences; tho' the preceding Reasons were what the Commons intended to offer, if there had been one.
It very probably was upon this Occasion, that Sir
Christopher
is said to have declared his Opinion in the House of Commons, when some Gentlemen doubted whether the Cupola would bear the Leaden Covering, that it was able to bear 7000 Tons more than what is now upon it, and that he would undertake to raise a Spire of Stone upon the whole 100 Feet higher than the Cross now stands.
The Expence of this magnificent Structure, as it was laid before the Parliament
Anno
1711, including the Building of the Chapter-house near it, a neat and elegant Fabrick, purchasing of Property, together with the Estimate of what was necessary to complete the whole, in which was concluded a Ring of Twelve Bells, not yet put up, nor cast, as also the Furniture for the Choir, amounted to 810,380
l.
4
s.
These Things, that were not so easy for every one to know, we have thought it necessary to inlarge upon. Our Bounds will not permit us to say all that the Subject requires, and we would not dwell upon Points which every one knows, or may easily inform himself of by his own Observation, or from other Writers, in relation to this famous Structure.
But one thing it will be requisite to observe further, which every one does not know, and which therefore I shall mention.
This able Architect, Sir
Christopher Wren,
at the first setting about the Church, would have had its Situation removed a little to the North, to stand just on the Spot of Ground which is taken up by
Pater-noster Row,
and the Buildings on either Side; so that the North-side of the Church should have stood open to
Newgate-street,
and the South-side to the Ground on which the Church now stands.
By this Situation, the East-end of the Church, would have looked directly down the main Street of the City,
Cheapside
; and for the West-end,
Ludgate
having been removed a little North, the main Street called
Ludgate-street,
and
Ludgate-hill,
would only have sloped a little W. S. W. as they do now irregularly Two Ways, one within, and the other without the Gate, and all the Street beyond
Fleet-Bridge
would have received no Alteration at all.
By this Situation, the common Thorough-fare of the City would have been removed at a little farther Distance from the Work, and we should not then have been obliged to walk just under the very Wall, as we do now, which makes the Work appear out of all Perspective, and is the chief Reason of the Objections I have mention'd, as to the outside Appearance; whereas, had it been viewed at a little Distance, the Building would have been seen infinitely to more Advantage.
Had Sir
Christopher
been allowed this Situation, he would then, also, have had more room for the Ornament of the West-end, which, tho' a most beautiful Work, would have been much more so then, and he would have added a circular Piazza to it, after the Model of that of
Rome,
but much more magnificent, and an Obelisk of Marble in the Centre of the Circle, exceeding any thing that the World can shew of its Kind, of modern Work.
But the Circumstance of Things hindered this noble Design, and the City being almost rebuilt before he obtain'd an Order and Provision for laying the Foundation, he was prescribed to the narrow Spot where it now stands, in which the Building, however magnificent in itself, stands with great Disadvantage as to the Prospect of it. The Inconveniencies of this were so apparent when the Church was finish'd, that Leave was at length, tho' not without Difficulty, obtain'd, to pull down one whole Row of Houses on the North-side of the Body of the Church, to make Way for the noble Balustrade of cast Iron, raised upon an handsome Stone Wall of above a Yard high, that surrounds the Church-yard; and, indeed, to admit Light into the Church, as well as to preserve it from the Danger of Fire.
That admirable Architect met with no better Success in a Plan which was one of the most beautiful that could enter the Mind of Man, and would have made this City the noblest on Earth: this I shall relate in the Words of a certain Author,
viz.
"The Fire of
London
furnish'd the most perfect Occasion that can ever happen in any City, to rebuild it with Pomp and Regularity. This Sir
Christopher Wren
foresaw, and, 'tis said, offer'd a Scheme which would have made it the Wonder of the World. He proposed to have laid out one large Street from
Aldgate
to
Temple-Bar
; in the middle of which was to have been a large Square capable of containing the new Church of St.
Paul
's, with a proper Distance for the View all round; whereby that huge Building would not have been cooped up, as 'tis at present, in such a manner, as no-where to be seen to Advantage at all; but would have had a long and ample Vista at each End, to have reconcil'd it to a proper Point of View, and give it one great Benefit, which in all Probability, it must now want for ever. He farther proposed to rebuild all the Parish-churches in such a Manner, as to be seen at the End of every Vista of Houses, and dispersed in such Distances from each other, as to appear neither too thick, nor thin in Prospect, and give a proper Heightening to the whole Bulk of the City, as it filled the Landschape. Lastly, he proposed to build all the Houses uniform, and supported on a Piazza, like that of
Covent-Garden:
and by the Water-side from the Bridge to the
Temple,
he had planned a long and broad Wharf, or Quay, where he designed to have ranged all the Halls that belong to the several Companies of the City, with proper Ware-houses for Merchants between, to vary the Edifices, and make it at once one of the most beautiful and most useful Ranges of Structure in the World. But the Hurry of Rebuilding, and the Disputes of Property, prevented this glorious Scheme from taking Place."
When this great Man found he could not carry this Point, he proposed what we have already mention'd; but, as we have observ'd, with as little Success as the above grand Scheme; private Property, on this Occasion, as it does on most others, getting the better both of publick Utility and publick Spirit.
The new Churches at
Lime-house, Ratcliffe-highway, Spital-fields, Old-street,
the
Strand, Ormond-street, Hanover-square,
the
Horse-ferry, Bloomsbury,
I can but just mention, tho' they deserve to be taken notice of by Travellers. But the latter, I must observe, was the first Building, wherein was introduced a Portico after the Manner of the antient Temples. The Body of the Church is a masterly Performance; but the placing, for a Weather-cock, the Statue of a Prince famous for good Sense and Steadiness, is an Absurdity peculiar to the Church of
Bloomsbury.
The new-built Steeples or Towers of
St. Margaret
's
Westminster, St. Michael
's
Cornhill, St. Mary Aldermary, St. Sepulchre
's,
St. Christopher
's,
St. Dunstan
's in the East,
St. Clement
's-
Danes,
and the new-built Churches of
St. Mary Woolnoth, Bishops-gate, St. Leonard Shoreditch, St. Catharine Coleman, St. Martin
's in the Fields,
St. Giles
's, I can only mention.
Among the Beauties of
London,
must be numbered the admirable Church of
St. Stephen Walbrooke,
the
Temple-Church, Bow-Church, St. Clement
's-
Danes, St. Paul Covent-Garden
; and that incomparable Piece called
The Banqueting-house
at
Whitehall,
now made use of as a Chapel. This was the Design of
Inigo Jones,
as one Pavilion for that admirable Model he gave for a Palace. And if this Specimen has justly commanded the Admiration of Mankind, what must the finish'd Piece have done! It is to be hoped
Britain
will one Day have the Glory to accomplish it, according to this Plan, and then it will far exceed all the Palaces of the Universe. Here is Strength with Politeness, Ornament with Simplicity, and Beauty with Majesty. It is without Dispute one of the noblest Structures in the World. The Ceiling is an admirable fine Piece of Painting by
Rubens.
The Abbey or Collegiate Church of
Westminster
is a venerable old Pile of Building; but begins to appears with a new Face; for a Tower is actually finish'd at the West-end, and another is about. The Beginning of a fine and costly Spire was also laid some time ago, near the Middle of the Edifice, which however is yet uncertain whether it will be proceeded on or not. The West Window fronting these Towers is one of the most beautiful in Glass Painting that has been done of late Years; and the Window also fronting
King-street,
finish'd in the Deanry of the late Bishop
Atterbury,
is one of the finest modern Performances of its kind.
We are also assur'd, that the Houses adjoining to this venerable Building will be all pull'd down, and the Building left clear: an Action that will be as laudable when done, as it was scandalous when begun; the Effect of private Avarice, whereby that venerable Pile is subjected to the Hazards of Fire, and other Accidents, whenever an idle Servant shall get in a sottish, a careless, or sleepy Fit.
But after all, this Building, tho' very expensive, is far less elegant than several other
Gothick
Structures. Its Outside can never be made beautiful; and within, it is extravagantly out of Proportion, with regard to the Height and Breadth of the middle Nef and Side-Ayles. The high Altar withinside is a noble Piece, and had a wonderful fine Effect from the West Door, before the Organ lately erected intercepted its View.
The Towers at the West-end, which I have just mention'd, as they stand so close together, are not sufficiently contracted in the carrying them up. The Four Pinacles have a very wretched Effect, when viewed in a diagonal Line. The Style of the Building, so far as is intire new Work, is a sort of Medley, neither
Gothick,
nor any thing else. As so many beautiful Structures of this Kind are to be seen, it is amazing, that any Architect should be above imitating them, when 'tis plain he cannot equal, much less excel them.
This Abbey is the Repository of the deceas'd
British
Kings and Nobility, and very fine Monuments are seen over the Graves of our antient Sovereigns: the Particulars are too long to enter into here.
The Monarchs of
Great Britain
are likewise always crown'd here.
The Churches in
Southwark
are as follow:
1. The Church of
St. Mary,
vulgarly called
St. Mary Overy,
and
St. Saviour
in
Southwark,
is a noble
Gothick
Pile; having Three Ayles running from East to West, and a Cross Ayle after the Manner of a Cathedral.
2. The new-built Church of
St. George Southwark
makes a handsome Appearance.
3.
St. Thomas
's is a neat and convenient Building.
4.
St. Olave
's is also new-built.
5.
St. John
's, vulgarly call'd
Horsley-down
Church, is one of the Fifty new ones.
6. The Church of
St. Mary Magdalen Bermondsey
is a neat Structure.
7.
Christ-Church
is new-built; as is also,
8.
Rotherhith-Church
; but the particular Description I have not room for.
VII. Of
St. James
's
Palace,
the
Parliament-House, Westminster-Hall,
&c.
THE Palace of
St. James
's, tho' the Winter Receptacle of all the Pomp and Glory of this Kingdom, is really mean, in Comparison of the glorious Court of
Great Britain.
The Splendor of the Nobility, the Wealth and Greatness of the Attendants, the Oeconomy of the House, and the real Grandeur of the whole Royal Family, out-does all the Courts of
Europe
; and yet this Palace comes beneath those of the most petty Princes in it; altho' there cannot be in the World a nobler Situation for a Royal Palace than
Whitehall.
And it is with some Concern, that we see so fine a Spot become a Sacrifice to private Spirit, so much of it being given away to particular Families, as makes more remote than we might otherwise expect it to be, the Hope we might justly have entertained, of seeing a Palace built there, worthy of the Glory of our Monarchs.
Many Plans have been drawn for the rebuilding of this Palace; but the most celebrated Draughts are those of
Inigo Jones,
and may be seen in Mr.
Campbell
's
Vitruvius Britannicus,
and Mr.
Kent
's Edition of
Jones
's Works. The last of these, if executed, would, for Magnificence and Beauty, transcend even the Temple of
Solomon,
if we are to form a Judgment from the Plans given of that famous Edifice. But 'tis a Question whether the Expence would not exceed that of
St. Peter
's at
Rome,
which cost Forty Millions of
Roman
Crowns.
As the Court is now stated, all the Offices and Places for Business are scatter'd about, here and there.
The Parliament meets as they used to do, while the Court was at
Westminster,
in the King's Old Palace; nor can it be said but the Place is made tolerably convenient for them, and is still more so of late Years than it used to be; for the
Court of Requests
is intirely new-built, and made a noble Room; and other Conveniencies are added. The House of Commons meet in the Chapel of the Palace at
Westminster,
dedicated to St.
Stephen,
and fitted for this Purpose by that admirable Architect Sir
Christopher Wren.
The House of Lords is a venerable old Place, tho' it must be said to be much streightened in the several Avenues to it, and Rooms above it; and particularly the matted Gallery, the Lobby, the back Ways the King goes to it, are very short of the requisite Dignity or Convenience of the Place, and of the Glory of a King of
Great Britain,
who there meets the Peers and Commons of his Realm, who together constitute the most august Assembly in the World.
Westminster-Hall,
a very noble
Gothick
Building, in which are held the Courts of Justice, is said to be the largest Room in the World: its Roof, which is the finest of its Kind that can be seen, is 100 Feet wide. And here is held the Coronation-Feast of the Kings and Queens of
England
; also the Courts of Chancery, King's Bench and Common Pleas; and above Stairs, that of the Exchequer. But it must be confess'd, that it makes no very advantageous Appearance without, resembling at a Distance a great Barn, of 300 Feet long; within, it is filled with Booksellers Shops, and those of other Trades; tho' the Alteration lately made in the Chancery and King's Bench Courts, at the upper End of the Hall, and those for the Common Pleas on the Right-hand of it, give it a much better Appearance than it had before.
Adjoining to the Hall are kept the numerous Offices belonging to the Exchequer of
England,
some of them very dark and inconvenient; and such as to a Stranger would afford a no very remote Idea (particularly in some of the Avenues from Office to Office) of the dismal Mansions to which Money-Transactions often are thought to bring the devoted Subjects of
Plutus.
VIII. Of the Statues and other publick Ornaments in and about the Cities of
London
and
Westminster.
THIS Article we insert rather for the sake of the Number of the Statues,
&c.
than their Excellency; tho' some of them must be allow'd to be very valuable.
The Brass Statue of K.
James
II. in the Habit of a
Roman Caesar,
in the
Privy-Garden
at
White-hall,
is a very beautiful one, and can hardly be out-done by any modern Performance of that Kind in
Europe.
A fine Brass Bust of King
Charles
I. done by
Panini,
a famous
Italian
Master of Sculpture, is placed over the Passage at the upper End of
Westminster-Hall,
adjoining to the Court of King's Bench, which, tho' little observed, is very curious.
The Statue in Brass of King
Charles
I. on Horseback, at
Charing-Cross,
is a curious Piece, tho' not perfect according to the Notion of some Criticks.
In the Centre of
Soho-square,
is the Statue of King
William
III. with Four Figures representing the
Thames,
the
Medway,
the
Severn,
and the
Humber
; but the Piece is not extraordinary.
On the Front of
Montagu-house,
the Four Cardinal Virtues. Also in the Garden, in Metal, a curious Figure of a Gladiator, and likewise a
Venus
and a
Satyr.
The Busts over the Entrance of the Prince of
Wales
's Octagon, at
Carlton-house,
are fine.
In
Grosvenor-square,
an Equestrian Statue of King
George
I. finely gilded; but that is its chief Beauty.
In
Queen's-square, Westminster,
is a Statue of Queen
Anne,
at full Proportion, on a Pedestal.
At
Somerset-house,
on the South Front, in a Niche,
Apollo,
finely done in Marble, with a Bow, Arrows and Dogs; a neat Figure in Brass of a
Cleopatra,
with her Asps invironing one Arm, and fix'd on her Breast: also in an
Alto-Relievo,
on the Front of the Water-gate, Two Figures representing
Isis
and
Thame.
Also in the Garden a naked
Venus,
with a
Dolphin,
and a
Cupid,
and a
Boy
on his Back.
In the Gardens of
Lincoln's-Inn,
are the Figures of
Julius Caesar, Pompey, Augustus Caesar, Mark Antony,
and an
Hercules
and a
Neptune
in the Benchers Garden.
At
Temple-Bar, Anne,
Queen to King
James
I. finely cut in a Niche: also King
James
I.
Charles
I. and
Charles
II. in other Niches.
King
Lud,
and his Two Sons, on the East-side of
Ludgate:
Queen
Elizabeth
on the West-side.
At St.
Paul
's the Figures of the
Apostles
and
Evangelists,
on the West, North, and South Fronts; and in the Middle of the Area, the Statue of her late Majesty Queen
Anne,
at full Length, crown'd, with a Sceptre in one Hand, and a Globe in the other, round the Pedestal of which, are the Figures of
Britannia, France
in a pensive Attitude,
Ireland,
and
America:
also St.
Paul,
with a Group of other Figures expressing his Conversion, finely done in Relievo, over the Door in the West Front.
On the Front of the Hall of the
College of Physicians,
toward the Court, is a Statue of King
Charles
II. well cut in Stone. On the West-side of the Theatre is also the Statue of Sir
John Cutler,
carv'd in Stone. A fine Busto of Dr.
Harvey
is also newly erected in the Front of the Hall.
Another of King
Charles
II. in a Niche, is also to be seen in that Part of
Christ's-Hospital
fronting
Grey-friers
; as are also Two of King
Edward
VI. in different Parts of that Hospital. Also the Statue of Sir
J. More.
In the Front of
St. Bartholomew's Hospital,
next
Smithfield,
which is a very handsome Gate-way, is a Statue of King
Henry
VIII. done in a very good Taste.
In
Aldersgate,
King
James
I. on Horseback, well carv'd in
Alto-Relievo:
also the Prophets
Samuel
and
Jeremiah.
On
Newgate,
in both Fronts, are the Figures of
Justice, Liberty, Mercy, Peace, Plenty,
and
Truth.
In
Mercers-Chapel,
in the Front,
Charity,
and her
Three Children.
In
Clothworkers-hall,
is a curious Figure of King
James
I. and King
Charles
I.
At the Chapel by
Guildhall,
the Statues of King
Edward
VI. Queen
Elizabeth,
with a
Phoenix
under her, and King
Charles
I. treading upon a Globe,
&c.
In the
Royal Exchange,
the Statues of
Edward
I.
Edward
III.
Henry
V.
Henry
VI.
Edward
IV.
Edward
V.
Henry
VII.
Henry
VIII.
Edward
VI. Queen
Mary
I. Queen
Elizabeth,
King
James
I. King
Charles
I. King
Charles
II. King
James
II. King
William
III. and Queen
Mary,
Queen
Anne,
King
George
I. and King
George
II. Also on the South-side are Two fine Statues of King
Charles
I. and King
Charles
II. A Statue of King
Charles
II. in a
Roman
Habit, in the Centre of the Area, is a very noble Performance. Also in Two Places of the
Exchange,
Statues of Sir
Thomas Gresham
; one of them deserves a better Situation than the dark Corner in which it is placed, under the Piazza of the North-west Angle, just regarding the
Turkey
Walk, with a Bale of Silk by him.
The Two Figures over the Gate of
Bethlem Hospital,
one representing a Person melancholy mad, the one raving, are inimitable Performances, by
Cibber.
On the Pediment over the outer Door of
St. Magnus
Church, by
London-Bridge,
the Figure of
Atlas,
in a cumbent Posture, is curiously carved and gilt.
In
St. Thomas's-Hospital, Southwark,
a Statue of Sir
Robert Clayton,
in Marble; another in Brass of King
Edward
VI.
In Mr.
Guy
's Hospital a Statue in Brass of that Gentleman.
On the South-side of the Sessions-house in
Southwark,
is a fine Stone Statue of King
James
II. in his Royal Habiliments.
A good Statue of King
Charles
II. in Brass, in a
Roman
Habit, is in the Quadrangle before
Chelsea College.
In the publick Office of the Bank, is set up a curious Marble Statue of King
William
III. with the following Inscription on its Pedestal:
Ob Legibus Vim, Judiciis Auctoritatem, Senatui Dignitatem, Civibus Universis Jura sua Tam Sacra quam Civilia restituta, Et Illustrissimae Domus HANOVERIANAE In Imperium Britannicum Successionem Posteris confirmatam, Optimo Principi GULIELMO TERTIO Conditori suo Grato Animo posuit dicavitque
HUJUS AERARII SOCIETAS,
A. C. MDCCXXXIV. Harumque Aedium I.
Which may be render'd thus:
In Remembrance of Vigour restored to the Laws, Authority to the Courts of Judicature, Reverence to the Parliament, and to all
Britons
their Civil and Religious Rights, and assuring to Posterity the Succession of the most illustrious House of
HANOVER
to the Throne of
Great Britain;
The Society of this BANK has gratefully placed and dedicated this Statue to the most excellent Prince,
WILLIAM III.
their Founder
;
in the Year of Christ
1734,
and of this Building the First.
The noble Collections made by several of our
English
Nobility and Gentry, from abroad, would afford a curious Article in this Place; but our Design is to give an Account of Things as they are in and about this great City.
IX. Of the Gates of
London
and
Westminster.
THE Gates of the City of
London
are seven, besides Posterns. Two of them were demolish'd at the Fire, but beautifully rebuilt. These are
Ludgate
and
Newgate.
Ludgate
is a Prison for Debt, for Freemen of the City only.
Newgate
is a Prison for Criminals, both in
London
and
Middlesex,
and for Debtors also for
Middlesex,
being the County Gaol.
Moregate
is also rebuilt, and is a very beautiful Gateway, the Arch being near Twenty Feet high, which was done to give room for the City Train'd-bands to go through to the Artillery Ground, where they muster, and that they might march with their Pikes advanced; for then they had Pikemen in every Regiment, as well in the Army as in the Militia, which since that, is quite left off. This makes the Gate look a little out of Proportion, to those who know not the Occasion of it.
Cripplegate
is very old, and makes but a mean Figure.
Bishopsgate
is newly rebuilt, but not with the Elegance that might have been wish'd.
Aldersgate
and
Aldgate
both make a very handsome Appearance.
Most of these Gates are given by the City to the chief Officers to live in, and are very convenient Dwellings.
Temple-Bar
is the only Gate which is erected at the Extent of the City Liberties, and this was occasion'd by some needful Ceremonies, as at the Proclaiming any King or Queen of
England,
at which Time the Gates are shut. The Herald at Arms knocks hard at the Door, the Sheriffs of the City call back, asking, Who is there? Then the Herald answers,
I come to proclaim,
&c. according to the Name of the Prince who is to succeed to the Crown, and repeating the Titles of
Great Britain, France,
and
Ireland,
&c. at which the Sheriffs open, and bid them welcome; and so they go on to the
Exchange,
where they make the last Proclamation.
There was formerly another Gate belonging to the City of
London,
called the
Postern-Gate
at
Tower-hill
; but it being partly demolish'd by Time, it is now turned into private Buildings.
Westminster
had no less than Five Gates, and all standing within a small Compass of Ground; as, first, The noble
Gothick
Gate at
Whitehall,
which is left standing for the Beauty of its Workmanship. Secondly, A Gate a little farther, where
King-street
begins, which was a good old Structure, and pull'd down a few Years ago to inlarge the Passage. Thirdly, A Gate where now
Union-street
is, communicating
King-street
with the
New Palace-yard
; and this has been several Years demolish'd, and the said little Street built where it stood. Fourthly, A Gate leading from
New Palace-yard
to
St. Margaret's-lane,
which has been lately demolish'd, to inlarge that Passage, by which the King goes to the House of Lords. Fifthly, The
Gate-house,
near the West-end of the Abbey, which is an old Building, used for the publick Gaol of the City of
Westminster.
To these we may also add, the
Water-gate
at
Westminster,
in
New Palace-yard,
near which is begun to be erected the new Bridge.
X. Of the publick and private
Prisons.
THERE are in
London,
and its far extended Bounds, notwithstanding we are a Nation so fond of Liberty, more publick and private Prisons, and Houses of Confinement, than in any City in
Europe.
The Publick ones are as follow:
Publick
Gaols.
The
Tower.
Newgate.
Ludgate.
King's Bench.
The
Fleet.
Bridewell.
Marshalseas.
The
Gatehouse.
Two
Counters
in the City.
One
Counter
in the Burrough.
St. Martin's le Grand.
The
Clink,
formerly the Prison to the
Stews.
Whitechapel.
Finsbury.
The
Duchy.
St. Catharine's.
Bale-dock.
Little-ease.
New Prison.
New Bridewell.
Tothill-fields Bridewell.
Night Prisons, called
Round-houses,
&c.
Tolerated
Prisons.
Bethlem
or
Bedlam.
Above 100
Sponging-houses.
15 Private
Madhouses.
The Serjeant at Arms's Officers Houses.
The Black-rod Officers Houses,
&c.
The Admiralty Officers Houses,
&c.
3 Pesthouses.
Tipstaffs Houses.
Chancery Officers Houses.
These private Houses of Confinement are pretended to be like little Purgatories, between Prison and Liberty, Places of Advantage for the keeping of Prisoners at their own Request, till they can get Friends to deliver them, and so avoid going into publick Prisons; tho' in some of them the Extortion is such, and the Accommodation so bad, that Men chuse to be carried to Prison directly.
XI. Of the Markets of
London.
AND, 1. That of
Smithfield
for Cattle is, without question, the greatest in the World: no Calculation of the Numbers of Horses, Oxen, Cows, Calves, Sheep,
&c.
can be made. This Market is held every
Monday
and
Friday.
There is also a great Market, or rather Fair for Horses, in
Smithfield,
every
Friday
in the Afternoon, where very great Numbers of Horses, and those of the highest Price, are sold weekly.
The Flesh Markets are
Leaden-hall, Honey-lane, Newgate, Clare, Shadwell, Southwark, Westminster, Spitalfields, Whitechapel, Brook, Bloomsbury, Newport, St. James
's,
Hungerford
; and now lately the new Market, at
Fleet-ditch:
as also another, for which a Patent was granted,
May
1740, to be held on
Monday, Wednesday,
and
Friday,
weekly, at
Brook-field
by
May-fair,
in the Parish of
St. George Hanover-square,
for Meat, Herbage,
&c.
At all these Markets, a Part is set by for a
Fishmarket,
and a Part for an
Herb-market
; notwithstanding which, there are the following particular Fish and Herb-markets,
viz.
Fish-markets, at
Billinsgate, Fishstreet-hill,
and
Old Fishstreet.
Herb-markets,
Covent-garden,
and till within this little while
Stocks-market,
which is removed to the new one at
Fleet-ditch,
to make room for a Mansion-house for the Lord Mayor of this City.
At the
Three Cranes,
are also Markets for Cherries, Apples, and other Fruits.
Corn-markets, are at
Bear Quay,
and
Queenhith.
Meal-markets, at
Queenhith, Hungerford, Ditchside,
and
Whitecross-street.
Hay-markets, at
Whitechapel, Smithfield, Southwark,
the
Hay-market-street, Westminster,
and
Bloomsbury.
Leather-market, at
Leaden-hall.
Hides and Skins, at
Leaden-hall,
and
Wood's-close.
Coal-markets, at
Room-land,
and
Billinsgate.
Bay-market, at
Leaden-hall.
Broad-cloth-market, at
Blackwell-hall
A Grant for a new Market near
Grosvenor-square
is now (
Anno
1741.) obtained.
.
The last Three are, without Doubt, the greatest in the World of those Kinds.—There are moreover Multitudes of Coal-merchants, who have Coalwharfs, from the
Hermitage
one Way, to the
Horseferry
and
Westminster
another, which may be deemed so many Markets, tho' not publick ones.
These Markets are so considerable in themselves, that they merit a larger and more particular Description, than I have room for. I shall, however, briefly observe of them, That of the fifteen Fleshmarkets for Provisions, Seven of them are of antient Standing; but the others are erected since the Increase of the City. The old ones are,
Leaden-hall, Whitechapel, Newgate-market, Southwark, Clare, St. James
's, and
Westminster
; to which some add
Honeylane,
and these are so considerable, have such Numbers of Buyers, and such an infinite Quantity of Provisions of all Sorts, Flesh, Fish, and Fowl, that especially, with regard to
Leaden-hall,
no City in the World can equal them.
The great Market called
Leaden-hall
(of which a certain
Spanish
Embassador said, There was as much Meat sold in it in one Month, as would suffice all
Spain
for a Year) contains Three large Squares, every Square having several Outlets into divers Streets, and all into one another. The first, and chief, is called the
Beef-market,
which has two large Gates, one into
Leaden-hall-street,
one into
Grace-church-street
; and two smaller,
viz.
one by a long paved Passage leading into
Lime-street,
and one under a Gateway from the second Square. In this Square, every
Wednesday,
is kept a Market for raw Hides, tann'd Leather, and Shoemakers Tools; and in the Ware-houses, up Stairs, on the East and South-sides of the Square, is the great Market for
Colchester
Bays.
The second Square is divided into two Oblongs: in the first is the Fish-market, and in the other, a Market for Country Higglers, who bring small Things, as Pork, Butter, Eggs, Pigs, Rabbets, Fowls,
&c.
In the North Part of the Fish-market, the Place being too large for the Fishmongers Use, are the Stalls of the Town Butchers for Mutton and Veal, the best and largest of which, that
England
can produce, are to be bought there; and the East Part is a Flesh-market for Country Butchers.
The third and last Square, which is also very large, is divided into Three Parts: round the Circumference, is the Butter-market, with all the Sorts of Higglery Goods, as before: the South Part is the Poultry-market, and the Bacon-market; and the Centre is an Herb-market. And there have been, lately, still more Conveniences and Additions made to this prodigious Market, which we have not room to particularize.
All the other Markets follow the same Method in proportion to the Room they have for it.
There are Two Corn-markets;
viz. Bear-quay
and
Queenhith.
To the first comes all the vast Quantity of Corn that is brought into the City by Sea, from the Counties which lie commodious for that Carriage; and here Corn may be said not to be sold by Cart-loads, or Horse-loads, but by Ship-loads; and except the Corn-chambers and Magazines in
Holland,
when the Fleets come in from
Dantzick
and
England,
the whole World cannot equal the Quantity bought and sold here; for no Quantity can be wanted either for Home Consumption, or for Foreign Exportation, but the Corn-factors, who are the Managers of this Market, are ready to supply it.
Queenhith
is chiefly for Malt; the Barley of which takes up the Ground of so many Hundred thousand Acres of Land in the Counties of
Surrey, Bucks, Berks, Oxford, Southampton,
and
Wilts,
and is called West Country Malt.
It is true, there is a very great Quantity of Malt, and of other Corn too, brought to some other Places on the River, and sold there;
viz.
to
Milford-lane,
above the Bridge, and the
Hermitage,
below the Bridge; but this is but, in general, a Branch of the Trade of the other Places.
It must not be omitted, that
Queenhith
is also a very great Market for Meal, as well as Malt, and, perhaps, the greatest in
England.
The Vessels which bring this Malt and Meal to
Queenhith,
are worthy Observation. They are remarkable for the Length of the Vessel, and the Burden they carry, and yet the little Water they draw; for some of those Barges carry above a Thousand Quarters of Malt at a time, and yet do not draw Two Feet of Water; and a Thousand Quarters of Malt must be granted to be, at least, a Hundred Tons Burden; and some of these large Barges come as far as from
Abington,
which is about One hundred and Fifty Miles from
London,
if we measure by the River.
The next Market, which is more than ordinary remarkable, is the Coal-market at
Billinsgate.
This is kept every Morning on the broad Place just at the Head of
Billinsgate-dock,
and the Place is called
Room-land:
from what old forgotten Original it has that Name, History is silent. I need not, except for the sake of Strangers, take Notice, that the City of
London,
and Parts adjacent, as also all the South of
England,
is supplied with Coals, called therefore
Sea-coal,
from
Newcastle upon Tine,
and from the Coast of
Durham,
and
Northumberland.
This Trade is so considerable, that it is esteemed the great Nursery of our Seamen. I shall have occasion to say more of it in my Account of the Northern Parts of
England.
The Quantity of Coals, which, one Year with another, are burnt and consumed in and about this City, is supposed to be about 500,000 Chalders, every Chalder containing 36 Bushels, and generally weighing 3000 Weight.
Most of these Coals are bought and sold on this little Spot of
Room-land
; and tho' sometimes, especially in case of a War, or of contrary Winds, a Fleet of 500 to 700 Sail of Ships, comes up the River at a time, yet they never want a Market. The Brokers of these Coals, are called
Crimps
; the Vessels they load their Ships with at
Newcastle, Keels
; and the Ships that bring them,
Cats,
and
Hags,
or
Hag-boats, Fly-boats,
and the like.
The Increase of this Consumption of Coals is another Evidence of the great Increase of the City of
London
; for, within a few Years past, the Import of Coals was not, in the River of
Thames,
so great by very near half.
It must be observed, that as the City of
London
occasions the Consumption of so great a Quantity of Corn and Coals, so the Measurement of them is under the Inspection of the Lord Mayor and Court of Aldermen; and for the Direction of it, there is allowed a certain Number of Corn-meters, and Coal-meters, whose Places are for Life, and bring them in a very considerable Income.
They have abundance of poor Men imploy'd under them, who are also called Meters, and are or ought to be Freemen of the City.
This is, indeed, a kind of Tax, as well upon the Coals as Corn; but the Buyer is abundantly recompensed, by being ascertained in his Measure; for the sworn Meters are so placed between the Buyer and the Seller, and have so many Eyes upon them, (being besides Men of Character) that there is hardly ever any room for Complaint on this Head.
XII. Of the Publick Schools and Libraries.
WE must be very brief in this Article; nor have we room to say anything of the private Schools, which are hardly to be number'd.
Near the Abbey at
Westminster
is the Royal
Free-school,
founded by Queen
Elizabeth
; it is not outdone even by those of
Winchester
and
Eton,
for the excellent Scholars it has produced, and is in a very flourishing Condition. Several good Houses, and even Streets, are lately built in its Neighbourhood.
St. Paul's
School, founded by Dr.
Colet,
Dean of
St. Paul's,
is a fair Foundation for 153 Boys, to be taught
gratis.
Merchant Taylors
School was founded by Sir
Thomas White,
Founder of
St. John's
College,
Oxon,
for 100 Scholars to be taught
gratis,
100 more for Half a Crown, and another 100 for Five Shillings a Quarter; and has 46 Fellowships established in
St. John's
College, for Scholars elected from this School.
Another excellent School was founded at
Mercers-chapel,
by that Company.
To say nothing of upwards of 70 Charity Schools upheld by the benevolent Contributions of charitable Persons; also the Mathematical, and other Schools, at
Christ's Hospital,
which I have not room to be more particular in.
As to the LIBRARIES, I can only mention 'em likewise in a cursory manner. Those at
Sion-college,
the
Temple,
and other Inns of Court,
Castle-yard,
near the
Meuse,
the
King's,
&c. deserve more particular Mention than we can give them. In
Redcross-street,
near
Cripplegate,
an handsome Building was erected,
Ann.
1727, by the late Dr.
Daniel Williams,
a Dissenting Divine, for a publick Library for the Use of the Dissenting Ministers of
London.
The valuable Collections, called the
Cotton Library,
is so well known, that we shall only mention the great Disaster that befel it in the Year 1730, when a Fire happened, not thro' Over-care, we may be sure, which burnt and defaced a great Number of valuable Manuscripts. But most happily it was discovered and extinguished, before it made so great a Destruction as was at first apprehended. The learned Keeper of this inestimable Treasure, Dr.
Bentley,
Master of
Trinity-college, Cambridge,
whose Labours have done so much Honour to the Commonwealth of Learning, was the first, we are told, to express to some of his Friends, who came to condole with him the
publick
Loss, the great Joy he conceived that all his
own Works
had escaped the Ravages of that furious Element, which had been so little complaisant to many curious Pieces of Antiquity. I would studiously avoid all ill-natur'd Insinuations; but wish, that with all the Excellencies which adorn this learned Man's Character, the Age in which he lives might be able to hand down his Fame to succeeding Times, free from that private Spirit and Narrowness of Mind, of which his Enemies accuse him. If he deserves not the Ill-will of such, he has to comfort himself, that Envy always pursues true Merit, and so may make himself easy: If he does, we will venture to say, that 'tis a Pity that any Man's listing himself either on this or that Side, as to Party, should shield him from deserved Censure.
The inestimable Collections made by the Earl of
Oxford,
the late Lord
Sunderland,
&c. are rather private than publick, and so come not under our Notice.
XIII. Of the Shipping in the
Thames,
and the Trade carry'd on by means of that noble River.
THE whole River from
London-bridge
to
Black-wall,
is one great Arsenal: nothing in the World can be like it. The great Building-yards at
Schedam
near
Amsterdam,
are said to out-do them in the Number of Ships which are built there; and they tell us, that there are more Ships generally seen at
Amsterdam,
than in the
Thames.
I will not say, but that there may be more Vessels built at
Schedam,
and the Parts adjacent, than in the River
Thames
; but then it must be observed,
1. That the
English
build for themselves principally, the
Dutch
for all the World,
2. That almost all the Ships the
Dutch
have, are built there, whereas not one fifth Part of our Shipping is built in the
Thames
; but abundance of Ships are built at the Sea-ports in
England,
such as, at
Newcastle, Sunderland, Stockton, Whitby, Hull, Gainsborough, Grimsby, Lynn, Liverpole, Yarmouth, Alborough, Walderswick, Ipswich
and
Harwich,
upon the East Coast; and at
Shoreham, Arundel, Brighthelmston, Portsmouth, Southampton, Pool, Weymouth, Dartmouth, Plymouth,
besides other Places, on the South Coast.
3. That we see more Vessels in less Room at
Amsterdam
; but setting aside their Hoys, Bilanders, and Schouts, which are in great Numbers always there, being Vessels peculiar to their Inland and Coasting Navigation, you do not see more Ships, nor near so many Ships of Force at
Amsterdam,
as at
London.
That Part of the River
Thames
which is properly the Harbour, and where the Ships usually deliver or unload their Cargoes, is called the
Pool,
and begins at the Turning of the River out of
Limehouse Reach,
and extends to the
Custom-house
Quays: In this Compass I have had the Curiosity to count the Ships as well as I could,
en passant,
and have found about 2000 Sail of all Sorts, not reckoning Barges, Lighters or Pleasure-boats, and Yachts; but of Vessels that really go to Sea.
It is true, the River or
Pool
seemed at that time to be pretty full of Ships; as also that I included the Ships which lay in
Deptford
and
Blackwall
Reaches, and in the Wet Docks; but then I did not include the Men of War at the King's-yard, and in the Wet Dock at
Deptford,
which were not a few.
In the River there are, from
Battle-bridge,
on the
Southwark
Side; and the
Hermitage-bridge,
on the City Side; reckoning to
Blackwall,
inclusive,
3 Wet Docks for laying up Merchant-ships.
22 Dry Docks for Repairing Merchant-ships.
33 Yards for Building Merchant-ships.
Including the Buildings of Lighters, Hoys,
&c.
but excluding all Boat-builders, Wherry-builders, and above Bridge, Barge-builders.
To enter into any Description of the great Magazines of all manner of Naval Stores, for the furnishing those Builders, would be endless; 'tis sufficient to add, That
England
is an inexhaustible Store-house of Timber; and all the Oak Timber, and generally the Plank also, used in the Building these Ships, is found in
England
only; and that principally in the Southern Counties near us; as particularly
Berks, Bucks, Surrey, Kent, Sussex
and
Suffolk
; and very little is brought farther.
XIV. Of the Manner by which the City is supply'd with Water.
NO City in the World is so well furnished with Water as
London,
for their necessary Occasions there, as well as for the extinguishing of Fires, when they happen.
1. By the great Convenience of Water, which being every-where laid in the Streets in large Timber Pipes, as well from the
Thames
as the
New River,
those Pipes are furnished with a Fire Plug, of which the Parish Officers have the Key; and when opened, let out not a Pipe, but, as one may say, a River of Water into the Streets; so that making but a Dam in the Chanel, the whole Street is immediately under Water to supply the Engines.
2. By the great Number of admirable Engines, of which almost every Parish has one, and some Halls also, and several private Citizens, have them of their own; so that no sooner does a Fire break out, but the House is surrounded with Engines, and a Flood of Water poured upon it, till it is extinguished.
3. The several Insurance Offices, of which I have spoken in Article III. have each of them a certain Set of Men, whom they keep in constant Pay, and furnish with Tools proper for their Work, and to whom they give Jack Caps of Leather, able to keep them from Hurt, if Brick or Timber, or any thing not of too great a Bulk, should fall upon them. These Men, whom they call
Firemen,
make it their Business to be ready at Call, all Hours, to assist in case of Fire; and it must be acknowledged, they are very dexterous, bold, diligent and successful.
There are two great Engines for the raising the
Thames
Water, one at the Bridge, and the other near
Broken-wharf
; and these raise so great a Quantity of Water, that 'tis said, they are able to supply every House throughout the whole City, with a running Pipe of Water up to the uppermost Story.
However, the
New River,
which is brought by an artificial Stream from
Ware,
continues to supply the greater Part of the City; and that with more Ease than the
Thames
Engines. Of this River I shall take farther Notice in my Description of
Hertfordshire,
where it takes its Rise.
The
Chelsea Water-works,
as they are called, are also of no small Use for the new Buildings at that End of the Town; and a noble Cut, being a large, tho' not long River of itself, from the
Thames
to near
Buckingham
Garden-wall, and a great Reservoir of Water, in
Hyde-park,
produced by the same Undertaking, are no small Additions to the great Convenience we are speaking of, for the Parts which they respectively serve.
Formerly there were several beautiful Conduits in
London,
the Water of which was very sweet and good, and brought to them at a vast Expence from several distant Springs in large Leaden Pipes: some of these were rebuilt since the Fire; but now the City is so well supplied with Water, that they are either quite demolish'd, or intirely out of Use. That in
Cheapside
was pull'd down but very lately, and a Statue proposed to be built in its Place, in Honour to the great King
William
III. and it must be own'd, that it is one of the most commodious Places for such a Purpose in the whole City. But it being set on Foot, as some thought, by Party on one Side, was rejected, from far less laudable Motives, by Party on the other.
It is a well known Fact, that the bringing the
New River
to
Islington,
for the Benefit of the City, was the Ruin of the first Attempter Sir
Hugh Middleton.
The Society of the
Temple
neglected to lay in Water till the Year 1737, when a terrible Fire happening in it, which burnt down several Houses, and the
Middle Temple
Kitchen among the rest, that Society agreed with the
New River Water
Company, and there are nowfine Conveniencies built for that Purpose in every Court and open Place, which are only to be uncovered on occasion of such Accidents. This Fire happened
Jan.
3. 1736-7, and in it was consumed one of the most valuable Collections of Antiquity in
England,
belonging to
James West,
Esq
except the
Cotton
and
Harleian
Library.
To sum up my Description of
London,
take the following Heads: There are in this great Mass of Buildings thus called
London,
Two Cathedrals.
4 Choirs for Musick Worship.
145 Parishes.
69 Chapels, where the Church of
England
Service is performed.
2 Churches at
Deptford,
not taken into the Limits now described.
28 Foreign Churches.
Besides Dissenters Meetings of all Persuasions.
Popish Chapels; and 2
Jews
Synagogues.
There are also 13 Hospitals, besides lesser Charities, call'd
Alms-houses,
of which they reckon 100, many of which have Chapels for Divine Service.
3 Colleges.
27 Publick Prisons.
8 Publick Schools, called
Free-schools.
131
Charity-schools,
in
London
and
Westminster,
and 10 Miles round.
15 Markets for Flesh.
2 for live Cattle.
2 Herb-markets.
23 Other Markets.
15 Inns of Court.
4 Fairs.
27 Squares besides those within any single Building, as the
Temple, Somerset-house,
&c.
5 Publick Bridges, and a new one now Building.
A Town-house, or
Guild-hall.
A
Royal Exchange.
Another
Exchange
for Shops.
A
Custom-house.
3
Artillery-grounds.
4
Pest-houses.
2 Bishops Palaces.
3 Royal Palaces.
XV. Of the Christenings and Burials in
London,
&c. Of the Importance of the City of
London
to the whole Kingdom. Of its comparative Proportion to the Publick Expence of the Kingdom, and the disproportionate Number of Members it returns.
LET us now mention something briefly in relation to the yearly Births and Burials of this extended Ci
y: from an Account of which Sir
William Petty
thought he might make some Calculations of the Numbers of the Inhabitants. And I shall only take Notice, that whereas the general Number of the Burials in the Year 1666, and farther back, were from 17000 to 19000 in a Year, the yearly Bill for the Year 1736, amounted as follows:
Parishes.
Christen'd
Bury'd
In the 97 Parishes within the Walls
1279
2580
In the 17 Parishes without the Walls
3852
8001
In the 21 Out-parishes in
Middlesex
and
Surry
6141
13250
In the 10 Parishes in the City and Liberty of
Westminster
3955
6980
145
15227
39811
Here is to be observed, that the Number of Burials exceeding so much the Number of Births, is, because as it is not the Number born, but the Number christened that are set down, which is taken from the Parish Register; so all the Children of Dissenters of every Sort,
Protestant, Popish
and
Jewish,
are omitted, also all the Children of Foreigners,
French, Dutch,
&c. which are baptized in their own Churches, and all the Children of those who are so poor, that they cannot get them registered: so that if a due Estimate be made, the Births may be very well supposed to exceed the Burials, one Year with another, by many Thousands.
London
returns Four Members to Parliament,
Westminster
two; and these Six, with Two for the County of
Middlesex,
make the Eight, which is all that this exceeding populous County returns, altho' every single Ward in
London
is far superior to most of the Boroughs in
England,
and really to many of the greater Towns, that are represented by Two Members, and contributes infinitely more to the Publick Charge: and indeed one may ask, What are the greatest Part of the Boroughs of
Cornwall,
and many in that of
Devon,
which Two Counties alone return 70 Members, compared to 20 populous Villages one might name in the Neighbourhood of
London?
Some of which, no doubt, would be consider'd, were a new Repartition of this kind practicable, and many of those peddling Boroughs be obliged to give up to them: a Scheme that must be set on foot under a very undesigning and honourable Administration, for Reasons too obvious to need particularizing.
The following Scheme, tho' calculated before the
Union,
and consequently before the 45 Members, which represent
North Britain,
were added to the 513, returned for
England
and
Wales,
will set this Matter in a still clearer Light.
A SCHEME of the Proportions the several Counties in
England
paid to the Three Shillings AID, 1699, compared with the Number of Members they send to Parliament.
In this Scheme the Proportions are thus considered,
viz.
That as the whole Kingdom send 513 Members to Parliament, so the whole Tax is divided into 513 equal Parts;
The
1. Column shews the Name of the County.
2. How many Parts of the of 513 each County paid.
3. How many Members of the 513 each County send.
COUNTIES.
P.
M
Bedford
7
4
Berks
10
9
Bucks
12
14
Cambridge
9
6
Chester
7
4
Cornwall *
8
44
Cumberland *
1
6
Derby
6
4
Devon *
21
26
Dorset *
9
20
Du
ham *
3
4
Essex
24
8
Gloucester
12
8
Hereford
5
8
Hertford
11
6
Huntingdon
4
4
Kent
22
18
Lancaster *
5
14
Leicester
9
4
Lincoln
19
12
Midd
esex
80
8
Monmouth
3
3
Norfolk
22
12
Northampton
12
9
Northumberland *
4
8
Nottingham
7
8
Oxon
10
9
Rutland
2
2
Salop
7
12
Somerset
19
18
Southampton *
14
26
Stafford
7
10
Suffolk
20
16
Surrey
18
14
Sussex
18
28
Warwick
10
6
Westmorland *
1
4
Wilts *
13
34
Worcester
9
9
York *
24
30
Wales
11
24
All England and Wales
513
513
 
P.
M.
Note,
That the Proportion of the Six Northern, and Five Western Counties, marked thus, *, are . . .
103
216
And that
Middlesex
and
Essex
are . . . . . .
104
16
Cities are included in their respective Counties.
XVI. The Benefit to the Publick of a good Understanding between the
COURT
and
CITY.
HAVING shewn the Grandeur and Importance of this great Metropolis, it remains only to observe, How necessary it is for the Good of the whole Kingdom, that there should be a right Understanding cultivated between the Administration and that, For,
There has formerly been a great Emulation between the
Court-end
of the Town, and the
City
; and it was seriously proposed in a certain Reign, how the
Court
should humble the
City:
nor was it an impracticable Thing at that time, had the pernicious Scheme been carry'd on. Indeed it was carried further than consisted with the Prudence of a good Government, or of a wise People: for the
Court
envy'd the
City's
Riches, and the Citizens were ever jealous of the
Court's
Designs. The most fatal Steps the
Court
took at that Time to humble the City, were, 1. The shutting up the
Exchequer:
And, 2. The bringing a
Quo Warranto
against their Charter. But these Things can but be touch'd at here. The
City
has outliv'd it all, and both the Attempts turned to the Discredit of the Party who pushed them on. The
City
is indeed, and at all times must be, so necessary to the
Court,
that no prudent Administration will ever seek Occasions for Misunderstandings with it: but will, if not infatuated, do all in its Power to incourage and increase the Opulence of the
City,
which upon any Emergency will be able and willing, if not disobliged, to support the
Court,
and furnish Means to protect the Kingdom, against either Foreign or Domestick Enemies.
And here having exceeded all Bounds of a Letter, for which however the Subject is an Excuse, I will close my Account of this famous Metropolis, and with it my Letter: being, Sir,
Yours, &c.
LETTER III. CONTAINING A Description of Part of
Middlesex
; and of the whole County of
Hertford.
SIR,
T HE Villages round
London
partake of the Influence of
London,
as I have taken Notice in the Counties of
Essex, Kent,
and
Surrey.
Hackney
and
Bromley
are the first Villages which begin the County of
Middlesex,
East: for
Bow,
as reckon'd to
Stepney,
is a Part of the great Mass. This Town of
Hackney
is of great Extent, containing no less than Twelve Hamlets or separate Villages, tho' some of them now join,
viz.
Church-street,
Homerton,
Wyck-house,
Grove-street,
Clapton,
Mare-street,
Well-street,
Cambridge-heath,
Shaklewell,
Dalstone,
Kingsland,
Newington.
All these, though some of them are very large Villages, make up but one Parish, and are within a few Years so increased in Buildings, and so well inhabited, that there is no Comparison to be made between their present and former State; every separate Hamlet being increased, and some of them more than trebly bigger than formerly they were.
Hackney
is so remarkable for the Retreat of wealthy Citizens, that there are at this time near an Hundred Coaches kept in it.
Newington, Tottenham, Edmonton,
and
Enfield,
stand all in a Line North from the City. The Increase of Buildings is so great in them all, that they seem to a Traveller to be one continu'd Street; especially
Tottenham
and
Edmonton
; and in them all, the new Buildings so far exceed the old, especially in their Value, and the Figure of the Inhabitants, that the Fashion of the Town is quite altered.
At
Tottenham
we see the Remains of an antient Building call'd the
Cross,
from which the Town takes the Name of
High-Cross.
Here is a small, but pleasant Seat of the Earl of
Colerain.
Highgate
and
Hamstead
are next on the North-side. At the first is a very beautiful House built by the late Sir
William Ashurst,
on the very Summit of the Hill, and with a View from the very lowest Windows over the whole Vale, to the City: and that so eminently, that they see the Ships passing up and down the River, for Twelve or Fifteen Miles below
London.
As the County does not extend far this way, I take no notice of smaller Towns; nor is there any thing of Note but Citizens Houses for several Miles; except the Chace, at
Enfield,
which was a very beautiful Place, when King
James
I. resided at
Theobalds,
for the Pleasure of his Hunting; and was then very full of Deer, and all sorts of Game; but it has suffered several Depredations since that, and particularly in the Times of Usurpation, when it was stript both of Game and Timber, and let out in Farms to Tenants for the Use of the Publick.
After the Restoration it was laid open again; Woods and Groves were every-where planted, and the whole Chace stored with Deer: but it is not, nor perhaps ever will be, what it was.
Hampstead
is risen from a little Village, almost to a City; nor could the uneven Surface, inconvenient for Building, check the Humour of the Builders; for even on the very Steep of the Hill, where there's no walking Twenty Yards together, without tuging up, or straddling down a Hill, the Buildings are increased to that Degree, that the Town almost spreads the whole Side of the Hill.
The Heath extends about a Mile every way, and affords a most beautiful Prospect; for we see here
Hanslop Steeple
one way, which is within Eight Miles of
Northampton,
N. W. to
Landown-hill
in
Essex,
another way East, at least Sixty-six Miles from one another. The Prospect to
London,
and beyond it to
Banstead-downs,
South;
Shooters-hill,
South-east;
Red-hill,
South-west, and
Windsor-Castle,
West, is also uninterrupted. Indeed, due North, we see no farther than to
Barnet,
which is no
ove Six Miles from it.
At the Foot of this Hill is an old Seat of the Earls of
Chesterfield,
called
Bel-size
; which for many Years had been neglected: but being tenanted by a certain
Projector,
who knew by what Handle to take the gay Part of the World, he made it a House of Pleasure and Entertainment: this brought a wonderful Concourse of People to the Place; and they were effectually gratified in all Sorts of Diversion; but there being too great a Licence used, it alarm'd the Magistrates, and now the House is hastening apace to Ruin.
Besides the Long Room at
Hampstead,
in which the Company meet publickly on a
Monday
Evening to play at Cards,
&c.
Mr.
Vipand,
the Master of that, built in the Year 1735, a fine Assembly-room, Sixty Feet long, and Thirty wide, elegantly decorated; every one who does not subscribe, pays half a Crown for Admittance. Every Gentleman who subscribes a Guinea for the Season, has a Ticket for himself, and for Two Ladies. Gentlemen and Ladies, who lodge in the Town, are entertain'd every
Sunday
for 6
d.
each, with Tea and Coffee; but no other Amusements.
I could not be at
Hamstead
without making an Excursion to
Edgworth,
a little Market-town, on the Road to
St. Albans
; for 'tis certain, that this was formerly the main Road from
London
to
St. Alban
's, being the famous high Road, call'd
Watling-street,
which reached from
London
to
Shrewsbury,
and on towards
Wales.
Near this Town, the Duke of
Chandos
has built one of the most magnificent Palaces in
England,
with a Profusion of Expence, and so well furnish'd within, that it has hardly its Equal in
England.
The Plaistering and Gilding are done by the famous
Pargotti,
an
Italian.
The great
Salon
or
Hall
is painted by
Paolucci.
The Pillars supporting the Building are all of Marble: the great Stair-case is extremely fine; and the Steps are all of Marble, every Step being of one whole Piece, about Twenty-two Feet in Length.
The Avenue is spacious and majestick, and as it gives you the View of Two Fronts, join'd, as it were, in one, the Distance not admitting you to see the Angle, which is in the Centre; so you are agreeably drawn in, to think the Front of the House almost twice as large as it is.
And yet, when you come nearer, you are again surprised, by seeing the winding Passage opening, as it were, a new Front to the Eye, of near 120 Feet wide, which you had not seen before; so that you are lost a while in looking near hand for what you so evidently saw a great way off.
The Gardens are well designed, and have a vast Variety, and the Canals are very large and noble.
The Chapel is a Singularity, both in its Building, and the Beauty of its Workmanship; and the Duke used to maintain there a full Choir, and had the Worship perform'd with the best Musick, after the manner of the Chapel Royal.
Two Miles from hence, we go up a smaller Ascent by the great Road; when leaving the Street Way on the Right, we enter a spacious Common called
Bushy-heath,
where again we have a very agreeable Prospect. On the Right-hand, we have in View the Town of
St. Alban
's; and all the Spaces between, and further beyond it, look like a Garden. The inclosed Corn-fields make one grand Parterre: the thick-planted Hedge-rows seem like a Wilderness or Labyrinth; the Villages interspers'd, look like so many several noble Seats of Gentlemen at a Distance. In a Word, it is all Nature, and yet looks like Art. On the Left-hand we see the West-end of
London, Westminster Abbey,
and the Parliament-House; but the Body of the City is cut off by the Hill, at which
Hampstead
intercepted the Sight on that Side. More to the South we have
Hampton-Court,
and S. W.
Windsor,
and between both, those beautiful Parts of
Middlesex
and
Surrey,
on the Bank of the
Thames,
which are the most agreeable in the World. But I must travel no farther this Way, till I have taken a Journey West from
London,
and seen what the Country affords that Way.
The next Towns adjacent to
London,
are
Kensington, Chelsea, Hamersmith, Fulham, Brentford, Twickenham,
&c. all of them near, or adjoining to the River of
Thames,
and which, by the Beauty of their Buildings, make good the North Shore of the River, answerable to what I have already describ'd.
But here I ought not to omit mentioning the new Bridge from
Fulham
to
Putney,
cross the
Thames,
which is a handsome wooden Fabrick, and as convenient, by its many angular Indentings, for Foot-passengers, as for Horses and Coaches. A Toll is paid for every one that passes it, let it be ever so often in a Day; and the Rate pretty much the same as the Ferry used to be. And as the Proprietors are said to divide 10 or 12
l. per Cent.
from the Profits of it, 'tis pity, methinks, that Foot-passengers, who cannot wear the Bridge, should pay at all.
Kensington
cannot be nam'd without mentioning the King's Palace there: it was originally an old House of the Earl of
Nottingham
's, of whom the late King
William
bought it, and then inlarg'd it as we see; some of the old Building still remaining in the Centre of the House.
The House itself fronts to the Garden Three Ways, the Gardens being now made exceeding fine, and inlarged to such a Degree, as to reach quite from the great Road in
Kensington
Town, to the
Action
Road North, more than a Mile, besides a great Track of Ground out of
Hyde-Park.
An artificial Mount is also erected, which affords a fine View, is planted with Ever-greens, and has a Seat upon it, which turns round with great Ease at Pleasure. The noble River that is lately dug in
Hyde-Park,
affords a fine View from these beautiful Gardens. The first laying out of these Gardens was the Design of the late Queen
Mary,
who finding the Air agreed with the King, resolved to make it agreeable to herself too, and gave the first Orders for inlarging them.
The late Queen
Anne
improv'd what Queen
Mary
began, and delighted very much in the Place; and often was pleased to make the Green-house, which is very beautiful, her Summer Supper-house.
And her late Majesty Queen
Caroline
completed the Whole, by the Additions just now mention'd.
King
William,
Prince
George
of
Denmark,
and Queen
Anne,
dy'd here.
As this Palace opens to the West, there are Two great Wings built, for receiving such as necessarily attend the Court, and a large Port-cocher at the Entrance, with a Postern, and a Stone Gallery, on the South-side of the Court, which leads to the great Stair-case.
It is no Wonder, the Court being so much at
Kensington,
that the Town has increased in Buildings; and indeed it abounds with handsome Houses, and has a very pretty Square.
South of this Town stands
Chelsea,
at which Place is the noblest Building, and one of the best Foundations of its kind in the World, for maimed and old Soldiers, built by Sir
Christopher Wren.
Here also are the Physick-gardens belonging to the Company of
Apothecaries
of
London.
In it is lately built a stately and convenient Edifice, which serves at the same time for a Green-house, and Apartments over it for meeting of the Company of
Apothecaries,
&c. and over them are very convenient Apartments, which may be used for drying Seeds of Plants,
&c.
As this Ground was made a Present by Sir
Hans Sloane,
they have erected in the new Building, a Statue of that Gentleman; and intend to make, in due Time, an Opening down to the River, which will have a beautiful Effect upon the
Thames,
and receive no less Grace from it. On the Pedestal of this Statue is an Inscription expressing the Company's Gratitude to Sir
Hans.
Near the Royal Hospital was, till very lately, a neat and beautiful House and Gardens built by the late Earl of
Ranelagh
; but they are now quite destroyed, being sold out in Parcels to Builders, and other Purchasers.
Sir
Robert Walpole
has a fine House here, and good Gardens, adjoining to the Hospital, adorn'd with noble Pictures,
&c.
In short there is an incredible Number of fine Houses built in all these Towns within these few Years, which in other Places would pass, in a manner, for Palaces; and most of the Possessors whereof keep Coaches.
Among these are the late Lord
Peterborough
's at
Parsons-Green
; Lord
Halifax
's at
Bushy-Park
; Earl of
Bradford
's, Earl of
Strafford
's, Earl of
Shrewsbury
's, Earl of
Burlington
's,
Sutton-Court Chiswick,
Mr.
Barker
's, Lord
Wilmington
's, General
Whetham
's,
Holland-House,
near
Kensington,
situated on a fine Eminence, and which now is taken by the Lord
Bruce,
who is making it once more a delightful Habitation; the late Secretary
Johnson
's, at
Twickenham,
and Multitudes of others.
But I must not pass over so slightly the noble Seat of the Right Hon. the Earl of
Burlington,
at
Chiswick
; and yet I can only mention cursorily some of its Beauties: as the River his Lordship has dug in his Gardens, a very fine one indeed; from the Earth of which he has formed a noble Mount next the Road, or rather a Terrace, from which the whole Country may be viewed, and which serves at the same time, for a Defence to his Gardens on that Side, and is planted to the Road with all manner of sweet Shrubs, Roses, Honeysuckles,
&c.
that yield in the Season a delightful Fragrance, as well to the Passengers as to those on the Terrace; the magnificent Buildings in Imitation of antient Temples,
&c.
interspersed in the Gardens; the beautiful Bridge over the River in it; the fine Walks; the unbounded Prospects; several curious Statues, a noble Obelisk, delicate Vistas, and the sumptuous Buildings adjoining to the old House, commanding a fine View to the River; which, with the Pictures and valuable Curiosities withinside, altogether exceed Description.
In the Village of
Hamersmith,
which was formerly a long scattering Place, full of Gardeners Grounds, with here and there an old House of some Bulk, we see now great Numbers of fine Houses, and a continued Range of a great Length, which makes the main Street.
I have now travers'd the best Part of
Middlesex,
a County made rich, pleasant and populous, by the Neighbourhood of
London.
The Borders of the County have Three Market-towns,
Stanes, Colbrook
and
Uxbridge:
this last is a pleasant large Town, full of good Inns, as the others are, and famous, in particular, for having abundance of fine Seats of Gentlemen, and Persons of Quality, in the Neighbourhood; and also for a vain Attempt made in the great Civil War, to settle the Peace of these Nations by a Treaty here. I should never have done, were I to pretend to describe, tho' ever so slightly, the large Towns on both Sides the River; as
Lambeth,
Battersea,
Wandsworth,
Fulham,
Putney,
Barnet,
Roehampton,
Hamersmith,
Mortlack,
Brentford,
Kew,
Richmond,
Isleworth,
Twickenham,
Padington,
Acton,
Ealing,
where a new Church is just finish'd; and others all crouded and surrounded with fine Houses, or rather Palaces, of the Nobility, Quality and Gentry of
England.
There are but Three more Market-towns in the County,
viz. Brentford,
the County-town,
Edgworth,
and
Enfield.
And now I enter the County of
Hertford,
a fruitful Soil, as it is managed; for 'tis certain, it is more indebted, for its Fertility, to the Sagacity and Industry of the Husbandman, than to Nature. Rich Meadows are seldom found here; for it affords not any large Rivers: the Arable hath generally too much Gravel, or too much Clay; but these last cold and wet Lands have been within these Forty Years greatly improv'd by draining off the Rain-water, which stagnated on the clayey Surface, as in a Cup, and chilled the Roots of the Corn; an Invention, called
Bush-draining.
The County is well-water'd for the Conveniency of the Inhabitants; tho' the
Lea
is the only navigable Stream in it, which has its Rise in
Bedfordshire
; of which more anon. But this County assumes the Honour of giving Rise unto several Rivers,
viz.
the Parish of
Tring
to the
Thames,
which leaving the County at
Putenham,
goes by
Ayleshury
to
Thame,
and thence by
Wheatley-bridge
to
Dorchester,
and falls into the
Isis.
The County may be divided into Three Parts pretty equal, by Two great Roads, one Part lying between the North Road, which goes thro'
Hertford
to
Nottingham,
&c. and the Borders of
Cambridgeshire
North, and those of
Essex
East. Another Part lying between that Road and the other, which leads thro'
St. Alban
's to
Coventry
and
Chester
; and the third lying between this last Road, and the Borders of
Middlesex
South, and those of
Bucks
West.
I shall begin with the last at
East-Barnet,
a Thoroughfare-town of Note, and well supplied with Inns: it lies high and pleasant, and was formerly frequented for its medicinal Waters, and now for its Swine-market. It has in its Neighbourhood several very handsome Houses of the
Londoners,
and which are the more pleasant by being so near the Chace.
Totteridge
is near it also, and is a very pleasant Village. It is situated on a fine Eminence looking to the North, over the
St. Alban
's Road into the Forest; and on the South over the
Edgware
Road, to
Harrow,
&c. It is very clean, and has several very good Houses in it. The Road from
Hampstead
here is extremely pleasant, and so well repaired, that in the worst Season there is scarce any Water or Dirt remaining in it; and as it lies not on any great Road, there are no heavy Carriages passing that Way; therefore a small Expence annually, well laid out, will always keep this Road in excellent Repair.
Cheaping-Barnet
lies a little North, in the
St. Alban
's Road, and is remarkable for the decisive Battle fought there on
Easter-day
1468, between the Houses of
York
and
Lancaster,
in which the great Earl of
Warwick,
styled
Make-king,
was killed, with many of the prime Nobility, and 10,000 Men. The Place supposed to be the Field of Battle, is a green Spot near
Kicks-End,
between
St. Alban
's and
Hatfield
Roads, a little before they meet. The Manor is in the Property of the Duke of
Chandois.
A handsome Row of Six Alms-houses, for so many Widows, founded by
James Ravenscroft,
Esq
in 1672, with a little Furniture to each, is in the Street. Queen
Elizabeth
built a Free School-house of Brick in the same Street, where Nine Children are taught
gratis,
and all other Boys at Five Shillings the Quarter.
About Two Miles N. W. from hence, on the Left-hand, lies
Durhams,
formerly the Seat of the
Austins,
but is now the Property of the Earl of
Albemarle,
who purchased it of Sir
John Austin,
and has since greatly beautified the Seat, by laying most of the neighbouring Fields belonging to the Estate, into a Park, and turning and repairing of the Roads. The House stands on an Eminence, situated in a small Valley, surrounded with pretty high Hills at a little Distance, so that in the Summer Months it is an agreeable Retirement: but the Soil all round it being a strong Clay, all the Rain which falls in Winter being detained on the Surface, renders the Situation very cold and moist. Add to this the Want of good Water, and Timber near the House, (except the young Trees which have been planted by his Lordship) and upon the Whole it cannot be esteemed a good Seat.
Idlestrey
or
Elstre
is a Village on the
Roman Watling-street,
on the very Edge of
Middlesex
; but it is chiefly noted for its Situation, near
Brockly-Hill,
by
Stanmore,
which affords a lovely View cross
Middlesex,
over the
Thames,
into
Surrey.
Near this is
Kendale
Wood, where formerly was found an old Flint Wall, so hard as not to yield to the Strokes of the Pick-ax; as likewise an Oven. Mr.
Philpot
digging his Canal and Foundations for his Buildings, upon the Spot of the old City,
Suellaniacis,
found many Coins, Urns, and other Antiquities. They have a Proverb here, relating to the Antiquities:
No Heart can think, nor Tongue can tell,
What lies 'tween
Brockley-Hill
and
Pennywel.
Pennywel
is a Parcel of Closes across the Valley beyond
Brockley-Hill,
where Foundations are discernible, and where, they say, has been a City.
About Two Miles further West lies
Watford,
a Market-town, Seventeen Miles from
London,
upon the
Colne,
where it hath Two Streams, which run separately to
Rickmersworth.
Several Alms-houses belong to this Town, and an handsome Free-school, built in 1704, and finish'd 1709, by
Elizabeth Fuller,
Widow; and in the Church are several handsome Monuments. The Town is very long, having but one Street, which is the publick, and so is extremely dirty in Winter; and the Waters of the River, at the Entrance of the Town, are often so much swelled by Floods, as to be unpassable; and the Bridge designed as the Road at such times, is so much out of Repair, that it is very dangerous for any Carriages of Burthen to pass over it; which is a very great Disadvantage to the Town.
Cassioberry,
the Seat of the Earl of
Essex,
is the next thing that occurs worth notice, and is elegant. The Situation is the best in the County, upon a dry Spot, within a Park of a large Extent: the House is built in Form of an H: the Middle and the East Wing is modern, and in good Repair; but the West Wing is very old, and by no means corresponding with the other Parts of the House. The Front faces the South-east, and looks directly on the House in
Moore-Park,
on which the late Mr.
Stiles
expended such great Sums of Money, and which has a noble Look from
Cassioberry
House. In the Front of the House is a fine dry Lawn of Grass, which immediately after the heaviest Winter Rains may be rode or walked on, as on the driest Downs; and a little below the House is a River, which winds through the Park, and in the driest Seasons constantly runs with a fine Stream, affording great Plenty of Trout, Cray-fish, and indeed most other kinds of fresh-water Fish. On the North and East Sides of the House are large Wood-walks, which were planted by the famous
Le Notre,
in the Reign of
Charles
II. The Woods have many large Beech and Oak-trees in them; but the principal Walks are planted with Lime-trees, and these are most of them too narrow for their Length, and too regular for the modern Taste. On the other Side of the River, the Ground rises to a considerable Height, which affords an agreeable Variety; part of which being covered with stately Woods, appearing at a proper Distance from the Front of the House, have a fine Effect to the Eye. In short, the whole Spot (if a small Expence was bestow'd to improve and put it more in the modern Taste) would be one of the finest Places near
London.
Near
Cassioberry
is a pleasant Seat, purchased by the late Lord
Raymond,
called
Langleybury.
Rickmersworth
is a Market-town, within Three or Four Miles West of
Watford.
It gave Birth to Sir
Thomas White,
Merchant-Taylor of
London,
who founded
Gloucester
Hall, and
St. John
's College in
Oxford.
Here are Two Alms-houses, one for Four, the other for Five Widows.
We visited in this Neighbourhood
More-Park,
with a fine House in it, of the late Duke of
Monmouth,
standing upon the Side of the Hill, facing
Cassioberry,
on the other Side the River. It has been allowed one of the best Pieces of Brick-work in
England.
Sir
William Temple
commends the Garden as one of the best laid-out in
England.
The Duchess of
Monmouth,
on whom it was settled by Marriage, sold it in 1720, to
Benjamin-Heskins Stiles,
Esq
who has made it a magnificent Edifice, having built a South Front of Stone with Colonnades, by which an Opening is made thro' the Hill that once obstructed its View toward
Uxbridge.
A North Front is also erected, and the Hill towards
Watford
cut thro' for a Vista. The Inside of the House is also adorned with admirable Work of Painting. In digging this Hill, Veins of Sea-sand with Muscles in it were found.
Abbots-Langley,
Twenty-two Miles from
London,
situated about Three Miles North of
Cassioberry,
in a good Air and Soil, is remarkable for the Birth of an
English
Pope,
Nicolas Brakespear,
by the Title of
Adrian
IV. The Emperor
Frederick
held his Stirrup, while he dismounted. He was choaked, as some say, by a Fish, and, as others, by a Quinsy: but it is an indelible Stain on his Memory, that, when sovereign Pontiff, he suffer'd his Mother to be maintain'd by the Alms of the Church of
Canterbury.
We proceeded to
Kings-Langley,
so called, because
Henry
III. built himself a Royal House here, of which the Ruins still exist: and here was born and buried
Edmund de Langley,
Duke of
York,
Fifth Son of
Edward
III. and his Wife
Isabel,
youngest Daughter of Don
Pedro,
King of
Castile,
was also buried here, and the Tomb is in the Church of this Place.
We next went to
Hempsted,
a little further North, and about Twenty-three Miles from
London,
a Bailiwick Corporate Town. It has the greatest Corn-market in the County, or perhaps in
England
; in which 20,000
l.
a Week are frequently returned for Meal only. Eleven Pair of Mills stand within Four Miles of the Place, which bring a great Trade to it: but the Road is by this means so continually torn, that it is one of the worst Turnpikes round about
London.
A little North of
Hempsted
we turn'd West, and came to
Great Barkhamsted,
about Twenty-four computed Miles from
London.
It is a very antient Town, which for many Hundred of Years has been one of the Crown Manors, which granted to it many very ample Privileges. It is now annexed to the Dukedom of
Cornwall,
and as such appropriated to the Princes of
Wales.
The Castle and Manor are at present held by Lease from the Prince, by
Edward Carey,
Esq
which was obtained by his Ancestors of Queen
Elizabeth.
Barkhamsted
has evidently been a
Roman
Town, by the Name of
Durobrivae
; and probably the Castle stands upon a
Roman
Foundation.
Roman
Coins are frequently dug up there. It is most pleasantly inviron'd with high and hard Ground, full of Hedge-rows, Pastures, and Arable, tho' situated upon a South-side of a Marsh. It extends itself far in handsome Buildings, and a broad Street In the Time of the Heptarchy it was the Residence of the Kings of
Mercia
; and here
Wightred
King of
Kent
and
Mercia,
in the Year 69, held a Parliament: here also King
Ina
's Laws were publish'd.
The Castle was judiciously set on the North-side of the Town, on dry Ground, amongst Springs, and made exceedingly strong by the
Saxons.
It was rebuilt by
Moreton,
Earl of
Cornwall,
Brother to
William the Conqueror,
and razed for Rebellion in his Son's Time, and so with the Manor fell to the Crown.
Henry
II. kept his Court here, and granted great Privileges to the Place. The Castle was afterwards rebuilt, as it is thought, in the Reign of King
John,
for the
Dauphin
of
France,
in Conjunction with the Barons, besieg'd it, and the Defendants surrender'd not till they had the King's Orders for it.
When the Castle was demolish'd, a large House was built out of its Ruins, which is beautifully situated. What now remains of it is but the third Part, and the Back of the great House; for the other two Thirds were destroyed by Fire in the Reign of
Charles
I. It was in King
James
's Time a Nursery for that Prince's Children; and Prince
Henry
and Prince
Charles
were bred up there; and in the Time of the late Troubles, Colonel
Axtel,
a Parliament Officer, held it. It is now in the Possession of the
Roper
Family.
The Corporation sunk in the War between the King and Parliament. In King
Charles
II.'s Time an Attempt was made to revive the Charter; but it was dropt. This Body Politick is now reduced to a Skeleton, like the Castle, which is only to be known by its Moats and Walls.
The Castle contains within its first Moat, Four or Five Acres. There is again a Division by another Moat. The South Part, consisting of about Two Acres, is upon a Level with most of the outward Walls and Chimneys remaining. Towards the North, across a Moat, is a high Hill or Keep, capable of defending itself against the former, if possessed by an Enemy. The Traces of the Bridge of Communication, and the Moat dividing these Two Places of Strength, are continued to the grand one, that takes in the whole Scite of the Fortification. The Remains of the Bridge for Entrance from the Town, are visible, answering exactly to the other, as the North of the first Area, which led to the Hills.
In this Town was the famous Interview between
William the Conqueror
and the
English
Nobility, in his March towards
London,
after his Victory over
Harold.
He passed the
Thames
at
Wallingford,
and was going forward to
St. Albans,
when the stout Abbot
Frederick
stopp'd his March by Trees,
&c.
till he could get the
English
Nobility together, and then he made him swear to keep inviolably the good and antient Laws of the Kingdom; yet he took away all their Lands, and divided them among his hungry
Normans.
This Town gives Name to the Deanry. The Church is handsome, dedicated to St.
Peter
; it has had many Chapels and Oratories. On the Pillars of the Church are the Eleven Apostles, with each of them a Sentence of the Creed, and St.
George
killing a Dragon, on the Twelfth. These were whited over by the Zeal of the late Times, and are but lately come to Light.
The Chapel of
St. John
is used only by the Master, Ushers and Scholars of the Free-School.
St. Leonard
's Hospital was at the South-east End of the High-street, and
St. James
's Hospital at the other End. The Free Grammar-School was built by Dean
Incent,
of
St. Paul
's. It is a handsome Brick Structure, with an Apartment at one End for the Master, at the other for the Usher and Chantry-Clerk. It was Twenty Years in Building.
They have had other large Benefactions, which we have not room for.
Tring,
being Twenty-eight computed Miles from
London,
is a small Market-town, stands upon the Extremity of
Hertfordshire,
next to
Buckinghamshire,
East of and near the
Ikening-street.
It is very antient, and was formerly a Royal Manor; but now possessed by
William Gore,
Esq
who has made a Park of 300 Acres, of which Part is on the
Chiltern.
In it is a beautiful Wood inclosed, lying close to the
Ikening-street.
Mr.
Gore
has beautified and wainscotted the Church in a most elegant Manner, and gives 20
l. per Ann.
for a Charity-School. The Church is a handsome Pile of Building, with a Ring of Six Bells. The Chancel was wainscotted by Sir
Richard Anderson.
It is decent and capacious, and worthy a Choir. Both Church and Chancel are paved with Free-Stone; the Pillars are painted; the Pulpit and sounding Board are of fine Inlaid-work; and a handsome Vestry is under the Belfry.
Among other Monuments is a magnificent one for Sir
William Gore
and his Lady; with Inscriptions to their Honour, but too long for a Place here.
From
Tring
I passed next Eastward, and came to
Gadesden-Little
; where I had heard was a fine Prospect; and I wanted not Curiosity to see it. This Vill has
Cawley-Wood,
and
Ivingo-Hills
on the North-west,
Aldbury-Cliffs
on the South-west,
Dunstable-Downs
to the North. The Prospect I mean is from one Part of this Parish, to which a Common of fine Turf leads under the Duke of
Bridgwater
's shady Park; and a noble one it is of Three Counties, worthy of the Pencil of the greatest Artist in Landschape.
The Variety of Woods, Cliffs, Arable and Pasture, are charming; but they must be tempted to half a Mile's pleasant Exercise to get to the beautiful Scene.
Cawley-Wood
belonging to the Duke of
Leeds,
is a small Covert, a Mile from hence, at the Top of a Hill, in
Bucks,
one of the greatest Land-marks in the South of
England,
which overlooks Eleven Counties. It stands as a Monument to shew, notwithstanding all the modern Improvements, that Nature will not be out-done by Art.
Now I am on this Subject, I shall just mention
Penley-lodge,
for a most delightful Retirement to a Man who wants to deceive Life, in an Habitation which has all the Charms Nature can give. There is behind a large Common of fine Turf, bounded on a Wood on the West, to which if one ascend a Quarter of a Mile, he has a View of
Northamptonshire
and
Warwickshire.
From the House a Semicircular Prospect of
Bedfordshire, Middlesex,
and
Bucks
; a bended one towards
Ivingo
and
Aldbury-Cliffs,
with the shady Woods of the Dukes of
Leeds
and
Bridgwater,
seeming to hang over the Rivulet called
Bulborn.
The Manor of
Aldbury
lies North-east of
Tring,
and in the Way to
Gadesden.
It belongs to the Duke of
Leeds,
whose Father married the Heiress of the Family of
Hyde
; and so does
Muniborough-Hill
lie in the Way from
Aldbury
to
Little-Gadesden,
and affords a handsome Prospect.
Ashridge
stands near
Aldbury,
but in
Bucks,
an antient Mansion-house and fine Park, belonging to the Duke of
Bridgwater.
Gadesden
is famous for the Birth of
John de Gadesden,
who flourished in the Beginning of the Fourteenth Century; the first
Englishman
who was a Court Physician, and of whose Skill
Chaucer
makes honourable mention, in his
Doctor of Physick,
prefix'd to his
Canterbury Tales
; though Dr.
Freind,
from
John
's own Books, will not allow him to deserve it. There are several Monuments in the Chancel of this Church of the
Bridgwater
Family, whose finely situated Seat and Park at
Ashridge,
formerly a Royal House of Pleasure, and where
Edward
I. held a Parliament in the Nineteenth Year of his Reign, is in this Parish, but in the County of
Bucks.
The Duke is Lord of this Manor, as also of that of
Great-Gadesden.
I cross'd over a Slip (as I may call it) of
Bucks,
which runs into
Hertfordshire,
between
Aldbury
and
Kensworth-Green,
which lies a little South of the Road which leads from
St. Alban
's to
Dunstable,
and is a Situation surprisingly fine, about half a Mile in Length, a good Turf, and level with
Whipsnape-Woods
on the Back of it, and Rows of high Trees on the other Side. Nothing but Sky is to be seen from it one Way, and the other we have only a View of the Top of a Grove, at
Market-Cell.
It seems to claim a Preference of every Place in the County for a Cell, yet never had one on it: it comes very little short of the famous
Guy
's Cliff, near
Warwick.
There the shady Grove, and rolling Stream below it, make a beautiful Scene for Solitude: here the Woods and Trees afford Shade enough, and the pure circumambient Ether, with nothing in View but the Tops of Trees, would make a Hermit think himself in another World.
Here I came into the Road, and so turned South-east for
St. Alban
's, thro'
Flamstead
Parish, where is a well-built and delightful Seat of Sir
Thomas-Saunders Sebright,
Bart. on a rising Ground in the middle of a Park. It is called
Beechwood
Manor, from the great Number of fine Beech-trees which were formerly growing here, some of which are yet remaining on the Sides of the Park. The Soil of this Park is, for the most part, dry, the Surface being shallow, on a strong or chalky Bottom, which renders the Turf very fine and short, and very pleasant for the Exercise of either riding or walking. It was formerly a Nunnery for a Prioress and Ten Nuns, independent of any other Convent, and then called
St. Gyles in the Wood.
A very serious Inscription in
Flamstead
Church, on a Monument of one of the
Saunders
Family, may be worth transcribing, as it certainly is a Piece of sound Doctrine, in which every living Man may find an Use.
"He that looks hereon, may consider how fleeting all worldly Comforts are, and how great a Vanity it is to place his Affection thereon. Such Things there are as worldly Comforts, 'tis true; but they ought to be look'd on as
little Streams
; and whoever delights in them, more than in the FOUNTAIN from whence they proceed, may soon find them dry and vanished. The Truth of which he that wrote this, hath sensibly found; and wills others to place their Affections chiefly on that OBJECT OF LOVE, which is unchangeable, and is the Centre of all true Joy and Felicity."
Pursuing still the same Course along the great Road, we came next to
St. Alban
's, the capital Town of
Hertfordshire,
famous for deriving its Name from the Proto-martyr of
England,
who suffered so early in the fourth Century. 'Tis governed by a Mayor, 10 Burgesses, a Steward and a Chamberlain, and is a peculiar Liberty both for Ecclesiastical and Civil Government.
The Town rose out of the Ruins of old
Verulam
; of which so much has been said by Mr.
Camden
and others, that we refer to them for Particulars. In that great Man's Time, the Ruins afforded much more for the Observation of the Curious than now; for they are since dug away, for mending the Highways. The first
Verulam
was stormed and taken by
Julius Caesar.
And here
Cassibelan,
a famous
British
King, then kept his Court. The first Destruction of the Place is supposed to have been by
Boadicea,
the famous
British
Queen, who cut off 70000
Romans
in one Battle; and the second, (which was erected on the Ruins of the other) in the Wars between the
Britons
and
Saxons
; and almost infinite are the Numbers of Antiquities here dug up.
The Origin of
St. Alban
's was owing to the Monastery built by
Offa,
King of the
Mercians,
to the Memory of St.
Alban,
in Expiation of his barbarous Murder of
Ethelbert,
King of
East-Angles,
whom he had treacherously inveigled to his Court, on Pretence of marrying his Daughter; and the same
Offa
it was that built
Hertford
Cathedral, and dedicated it to
St. Ethelbert,
and made a Journey to
Rome
as further Penance, where he was absolved, tho' he kept the murder'd Prince's Dominions, and joined them to his own.
Of all the Monasteries in
England,
none could outshine this. Its Revenue was great, and its Privileges still greater. In the Royalties it had from its Founder, and the Episcopal Powers from the Pope, none came up to it. The mitred Abbot had Precedency of all in
England,
and subject to no Ecclesiastical Power but the Pope immediately; and he had Episcopal Jurisdiction over both Clergy and Laity in all the Lands belonging to his Monastery. From first to last they were Forty-one in Number, and many of them Persons of great Accomplishments, and high Birth: the 39th of which, tho' not high-born, was Cardinal
Wolsey.
The last Abbot was
Richard Boreman,
who at the Dissolution quietly surrendred on the Royal Command, and accepted of a Pension for Life, of 266
l.
13
s.
and 4
d.
Two bloody Battles were fought near this Place, between the Houses of
York
and
Lancaster
; the first upon the 23d of
May
1455, in which the
Yorkists
got the Day; the second on
Shrove-Tuesday,
in the 39th of
Henry
VI. when the martial Queen
Margaret
overcame the
Yorkists,
who had then the King in their Power, and fought under the Sanction of his Name.
But we must not dismiss this Subject without giving some brief Particulars of the famous Abbey Church. We have before observed, that it was founded by King
Offa
; but it has been rebuilt in Whole or Part several times. The Town purchased it at the Dissolution, for 400
l.
which prevented so noble a Fabrick being pulled down, and torn to Pieces, for making Money of the Materials; and it is made a Parish Church for the Borough. The High Altar is a curious Piece of
Gothick
Architecture.
Within the North Entrance is
Offa
on his Throne. Underneath,
Fundator Ecclesiae circa annum
793.
Quem male depictum, et residentem cernitis alte
Sublimem solio,
MERCIUS OFFA
fuit.
That is:
The Founder of the Church, about the Year 793.
Whom you behold ill-painted, on his Throne
Sublime, was once for MERCIAN OFFA known.
In the most Eastern Part of the Church stood the Shrine: Six Holes remain in the Pavement, where the Supporters of it were fixed. This Inscription is still to be seen.
S. ALBANUS VEROLAMENSIS, ANGLORUM PROTOMARTYR, 17.
Junij
293.
On the South Side the Shrine, in the Wall of the South Isle, is Duke HUMPHREY's Monument, with the Arms of
France
and
England
quartered, and a Ducal Coronet. In Niches on the South Side are 17 Kings; the Niches on the other Side have none remaining.
Piae Memoriae V. Opt. Sacrum.
Hic jacet
HUMPHREDUS,
Dux ille Glocestrius olim,
Henrici sexti Protector, fraudis ineptae
Detector, dum ficta notat miracula coeci.
Lumen erat Patriae, Columen venerabile Regni,
Pacis amans, Musisque favens melioribus; unde
Gratum opus Oxonio, quae nunc Schola sacra refulget.
Invida sed mulier regno, regi, sibi nequam,
Abstulit hunc, humuli vix hoc dignata Sepulcro.
Invidiâ rumpente tamen, post funera vivet.
In
English
thus:
Sacred to the pious Memory of an excellent Man.
Interr'd within this consecrated Ground
Lies he, whom
Henry
his Protector found,
Good
Humphrey, Glo'ster
's Duke, who well could spy
Fraud couch'd within the blind Impostor's Eye
Alluding to a pretended miraculous Cure of a blind Man, detected by the Duke.
.
His Country's Light, the State's rever'd Support,
Who Peace, and rising Learning deign'd to court;
Whence his rich Library, at
Oxford
plac'd,
Her ample Schools with sacred Influence grac'd:
Yet fell beneath an envious Woman's Wile,
Both to herself, her King, and Kingdom, vile;
Who scarce allow'd his Bones this Spot of Land:
Yet, 'spite of Envy, shall his Glory stand.
It is but little above 30 Years ago, that, digging for a Grave, the Stairs leading down to the Vault where the Body lies, were discovered.
In the Vault is a leaden Coffin, with the Body preserved by the Pickle it lies in, except the Legs, from which the Flesh is wasted, the Pickle of that End being dried up. On the Wall at the East End of the Vault is a Crucifix painted, with a Cup on each Side of the Head; another at the Side, and a fourth at the Feet. The Vault is very neat, and hath no offensive Smell. The Coffin, we are told, had an Outside of Wood, which is intirely gone.
The West End of the Choir hath a noble Piece of
Gothick
Workmanship for the Ornament of the High Altar. Capt.
Polehampton,
about 30 Years ago, gave an Altar-piece, which represents the last Supper.
There are many curious Medals and Coins to be seen in the Church, which have been dug out of the Ruins of old
Verulam.
This noble Fabrick hath wanted its Abbot's Zeal and Purse too, for Repairs, since it hath been a Parish Church. The Roof was preserved by Contribution of the Nobility and Gentry of
England,
many of whose Arms are put up on this Occasion; and Money has been collected several times besides for its Support: indeed such a fine Fabrick must too often stand in need of such Helps, as there is no settled Fund to maintain it.
There are Three Churches in the Town at present, besides the Abbey Church,
viz. St. Michael
's above-mentioned,
St. Peter's,
and
St. Stephen
's.
There were also formerly belonging to this Town
St. German
's Chapel,
St. Mary Magdalen
's Chapel,
St. Julian
's Hospital, the Hospital of
St. Mary des Prees,
the Nunnery of
Sopwell,
&c. But they are all demolished and secularized. There was also in the Town the Parish Church of
St. Andrew
; but that had dropp'd down before the Dissolution.
Near this Place is
Sopwel
Nunnery, where they say King
Henry
was married to
Anne
of
Bolen.
In the Heart of the adjoining Corporation stood one of Queen
Eleanor
's Crosses, demolished by the Inhabitants.
In the Neighbourhood of
St. Alban
's is
Gorhambury,
where is a Statue of King
Henry
VIII. with other Things worthy a Traveller's Curiosity. It is now the Seat of the Lord
Grimston:
but what it will be always most famous for, is, that the Manor is the paternal Estate of that Mirror of all Ages, and Ornament of his Country for Learning,
Francis Bacon,
created Lord
Verulam
and Viscount of
St. Alban
's, once Lord Chancellor of
England,
who first revived Experimental Philosophy: Of whose Merits, Rise and Fall, we shall say nothing, but refer our Readers to his Life now lately, in 1740, published, and prefixed to a new and beautiful Edition of his Works, written by the ingenious Mr.
Mallet.
Sir
Thomas Meautys,
who had been the Secretary of this wonderful Man, and to whom he convey'd this Estate, in Gratitude, erected a Monument for him in
St. Michael
's Church in this Town, sitting thoughfully in an Elbow-chair.
The Monument bears this Inscription:
Francisc. Bacon,
Baro de
Verulam, Sti. Albani
Viceco. Seu notioribus Titulis, Scientiarum Lumen, Facundiae Lex, Sic sedebat. Qui, postquam omnia Naturalis Sapientiae Et Civilis Arcana evolvisset, Naturae Decretum explevit,
Composita solvantur,
An. Dom.
1626.
Aetat.
66.
Tanti Viri Mem.
Thomas Meautys,
Superstitis Cultor, Defuncti Admirator.
Thus translated:
Francis Bacon
Baron of
Verulam,
and Viscount of
St. Alban
's; or, by his more known Titles, The Light of the Sciences, and the Law of Eloquence, was thus accustomed to sit; who, after having unravelled all the Mysteries of Natural and Civil Wisdom, fulfilled the Decree of Nature,
That Things joined should be loosed,
in the Year of our Lord 1626, and of his Age 66.
To the Memory of so great a Man, this was erected by
Thomas Meautys,
who reverenced him while living, and admires him dead.
The Manor of
Kingsbury
was sometimes the Residence of the
Saxon
Monarchs, whence its Name. It had a Castle, which was kept up till King
Stephen
's Time, when it was demolish'd, and the Scite given to the Abbey.
The Duchess Dowager of
Marlborough
hath a Seat here, built by the late Duke upon the River
Verlam,
which runs thro' the Garden; and who also built handsome Alms-houses at the Entrance of the Town.
The following remarkable Inscription and Character is cut upon the Pedestal of a fine Statue of the late Queen
Anne,
carved by the noted Mr.
Rysbrach,
and erected at
St. Alban's,
at the Expence of the Duchess, in Gratitude to the Memory of that excellent Princess:
QUEEN
ANNE
was very graceful and majestick in her Person: Religious
without Affectation.
She always meant well. She had no
false Ambition
; which appeared, by her never complaining at King
William
's being preferred to the Crown before her, when it was taken from the King her Father, for following such Counsels, and pursuing such Measures, as render'd the
Revolution
necessary. It was her greatest Affliction, to be forced to act against him, even for Security. Her Journey to
Nottingham
was never concerted, but occasion'd by the great Consternation she was under at the King's sudden Return from
Salisbury.
She always paid the greatest Respect to King
William
and Queen
Mary
; never insisted upon any one Circumstance of
Grandeur,
more than what was
established
in her Family by King
Charles
II. tho', after the
Revolution,
she was presumptive Heir to the Crown, and after the Death of her Sister, was in the Place of Prince of
Wales.
Upon her Accession to the Throne, the
Civil List was not increased.
The late Earl of
Godolphin,
Lord High Treasurer of
England,
often said, that, from Accidents in the Customs, and Lenity in the Collection, it did not arise, one Year with another, to more than Five hundred thousand Pounds a Year.
She had no
Vanity
in her Expences, nor bought any
one Jewel
in the whole Time of her Reign.
She paid out of her Civil List many Pensions granted in former Reigns, which have since been
thrown upon the Publick.
When a War was necessary to secure
Europe
against the Power of
France
; she contributed, in one Year, towards the War, out of her Civil List, One hundred thousand Pounds, in Ease of her Subjects.
She granted the Revenue arising from the First Fruits, to augment the Provisions of the poorer Clergy.
She never refused her private Charity to proper Objects.
Till a few Years before her Death, she never had but Twenty thousand Pounds a Year for her Privy Purse. At the latter End of her Reign, it did not exceed Twenty-six thousand Pounds a Year; which was much to her Honour, because it is subject to no Account. And as to her Robes, it will appear by the Records in the Exchequer, that in Nine Years she spent only Thirty-two thousand and Fifty Pounds, including the Coronation Expence.
She was extremely well-bred, treated her chief Ladies and Servants as if they had been her Equals. Her Behaviour to all that approached her was decent, and full of Dignity, and shewed
Condescension,
without
Art
or
Meanness.
All this I know to be true.
SARAH MARLBOROUGH.
M.DCC.XXXVIII.
At
Colney
is also a very handsome Seat of Sir.
Henry-Pope Blunt
's, standing about a Quarter of a Mile North of the Road. It seems to be very large, and the Fields and Meadows about it make it very pleasant in Summer.
Having thus gone over the first Part I proposed of this Country, which lies South and South-west of
St. Alban's
Road, I shall now bend my Course North-east towards
Hertford,
and from thence North-west, to take in such Part of the middle Division as lie between the Two capital Roads on that Side of
Hertford
; reserving that which lies East of it, for my Return towards
London.
The next Town in my Way is
Hatfield,
17 computed Miles from
London:
it is a Market-town; but much more famous is
Hatfield
House, which lies near it; from whence
Edward
VI. and Queen
Elizabeth,
were both conducted to the Throne, having resided here for some time. King
James
made an Exchange of this Manor in the fourth Year of his Reign, for that of
Theobald
's, as hereafter mentioned, with Sir
Robert Cecil,
afterwards Earl of
Salisbury,
who built this magnificent House, and made the Vineyard in the Park, thro' which the River
Lee
hath its Course, adorning that Garden. The Rectory of
Hatfield
is esteemed one of the best in
England
;
Winwich
in
Lancashire,
and another in
Durham,
have larger Revenues; but this has a better Situation.
Saundridge,
which lies a little North-west of
Hatfield,
deserves to be mentioned, as it gave Title of Baron to the late great Duke of
Marlborough
; and it now belongs to his illustrious Relict, a Descendant of the Family of
Jennings,
of this Place. But one Thing must be observed withal, that when I was there last, the Steeple lay buried in its own Rubbish, as it had done for 40 Years together; and the Bells hung in the Church behind the Door; and this, I suppose, continues to be its present State.
North-Mymms
stands a little East of
Colney,
and is remarkable for having in its Neighbourhood the Seat of the late Sir
Joseph Jekyll,
Master of the Rolls, in Right of his Lady, who was Heir to her late Brother the great Lord
Somers.
It has a most delightful Prospect. The Body of that noble Lord lies interred in the Chancel of the Church here, without any Inscription, in Allusion, as one would expect, to his Motto,
Prodesse quam conspici.
This Seat is now the Property of his Grace the Duke of
Leeds,
(who has put a great Part of the House and Gardens in good Repair) and is his Retirement from
London,
during any short Interval that may happen in the Sessions of Parliament.
We come now to
Hertford,
the County Town, 20 computed Miles from
London
; a Corporation, governed by a Mayor and Burgesses. It is pleasantly situated in a wholsome Air, and a dry Vale, having a good weekly Market well stored with Corn, and all sort of Provisions. It is very antient, and is built in the Form of a Y, with a Castle in the Middle of the two Horns. It contains several Streets and Lanes, well filled with handsome new-built Houses. In
Edward
III.'s Time, it had petitioned to be disburden'd of the Expence of sending Two Members to Parliament, on their Inability to pay their Representatives Wages: But 21.
Jac.
I. they petitioned to be restored to their Right, and succeeded.
There is a Free Grammar School for the Children of this Town, erected by
Richard Hale,
Esq
in King
James
I.'s Reign. The House, being rebuilt a few Years ago, is a very good one. Of the Five Churches
Hertford
once had, there are but Two remaining,
viz. All-Saints
and
St. Andrew
's.
Near
Hertford
is a Seat of Governor
Harrison
situated on a Hill, which commands a Prospect of the Country round it, as is likewise, in its Neighbourhood, a Seat of the
Clarks,
very delightfully situated too.
The Earl
Cowper
has a handsome Seat near
Hertingfordbury,
in the Neighbourhood of
Hertford,
built by his Father the great Lord High Chancellor of that Name; who erected in the Church-yard a Tomb for his Mother, with an Inscription to her Honour: in this Church-yard is also the Tomb of Mrs.
Elizabeth Culling,
Heiress of a Family of that Name.
The Manor of
Gobions
lies a little North of
Hertford,
and will be for ever famous on Occasion of its being the Family-seat of the great Sir
Thomas More,
Lord High Chancellor of
England
in the Reign of
Henry
VIII. who took off his Head, for refusing to acknowlege his Supremacy. It is now the Property of Sir
Jeremy Sambroke,
Bart. who for the Beauty of its Gardens, as well as the House, has made the Place one of the most remarkable Curiosities in
England.
A little still farther North, at
Wotton,
is the Mansion-house of the
Botelers,
nobly situated on a rising Ground, and watered with small Streams, which fall into the
Beane
on the South of it. It stands in a Park beautifully consisting of Hills and Flats, and renowned for as good Timber as the Island produces. About 40 Years since, one Tree was sold for 43
l.
18 Horses were had to draw one Part of it, when slit, and out of it the
Cutwater
to the
Royal Sovereign
was made. Another, called the
Walking-Stick,
might some Years ago have been sold for Fifty Guineas; but was decaying when I was there, by the burrowing of Rabbets under it. There is a good Free-school in this Village, for poor Children; with some of whom 5
l.
is to be given Apprentice.
Stevenage
is 28 computed Miles from
London,
and lies North-west of
Hertford.
It is a small Market-town: the Church stands upon a Hill, and consists of a Nave and Two Isles, and the Chancel hath a Chapel on each Side. In the Steeple is a Ring of Six Bells. Here is a good Free-school, as well for Petit as Grammar Scholars.
Walkern
is near it, North-east, on the River
Beane.
I mention it on Account of the poor
Jane Wenman,
who within these 30 Years was tried for a Witch, the last, we hope, that ever will undergo such a Trial in
England
; for the old obsolete Law against Witches was very lately repealed. Mr. Justice
Powell
got a Reprieve for the poor Creature, after the Jury had found her guilty, contrary to his Directions. She lived several Years afterwards on an Allowance from the Parish. The poor Wretch had been frighted into a Confession, that she was a Witch; and thereupon was committed by Sir
Harry Chauncy,
of
Yardlybury,
who would fain have had her retract, and pacify her Accusers. This Gentleman was one of the deprived Judges of King
James
II. but it is said he never sat as Judge but one Day. He wrote
The Antiquities of
HERTFORDSHIRE.
It is reported likewise, that another Woman being tried before Judge
Powell,
who among other Things that constituted her a Witch, had laid to her Charge, That she could fly;
Ay!
said the Judge;
And is this true? Do you say you can fly? Yes, I can,
said she.—
So you may, if you will, then,
replied the Judge;
I have no Law against it.
And at the Trial of
Jane Wenman,
the Court being full of fine Ladies, the old Judge very gallantly told the Jury,
"They must not look out for Witches among the Old Women, but among the Young."
I passed by
Benington-place,
the Seat of the antient Family of the
Caesars.
There was formerly a Castle there; the Hill on which it stood, still remains deep ditched.
At
Siffivernes,
in
Codicote
Parish, in the Year 1627, was a most prodigious Walnut-tree, covering 76 Poles of Ground. The Weight of the Boughs at last cleft the Trunk to the Ground. Mr.
Penn,
then Lord of the Manor, had 19 Loads of Planks out of it; a Gun-stock Maker at
London
had as much as cost 10
l.
Carriage: There were 30 Loads more of Roots and Branches. This was attested by
Edward Wingate,
before a neighbouring Justice of Peace, to whom Mr.
Penn
declared, he had been offered 50
l.
for the Tree. And
Jasper Docura
of the Parish attested, That when he was 15 Years old, the Compass of both his Arms would not reach round it at Eight times.
Hitchin
is a Market-town, lying in a Bottom, out of any great Road, distant from
London
30 computed Miles, and within three Miles of
Bedfordshire.
'Tis governed by a Bailiff and Four Constables, and was formerly famous for the Staple Commodities of this Kingdom. The Church is large, dedicated to St.
Mary.
It consists of the Nave and Two Ayles, with Two Chapels or Chancels. The Steeple has a Ring of Six Bells, but is low, and disproportionate to the Chancel. In the North Ayle Window are Paintings of
Faith, Hope,
and
Charity,
and of the
Four Cardinal Virtues
; and in the next North Window, the
Beatitudes.
The Front hath the Twelve Apostles round it; but they have been Sufferers from the booted Saints of Forty-one. There are many Monuments in it. A good Free-school, and other charitable Benefactions, have been made to the Town.
I could not miss taking notice of
Hexton,
on the North-west Edge of the County, next
Bedfordshire,
where was a Battle between the
Danes
and
Saxons,
some Remains of which are visible between this Place and
Luton,
as large Barrows,
&c.
Half a Mile to the South of this Town is a fortify'd Piece of Ground, called
Ravensborough Castle.
The Camp is a sort of Oblong, containing about 16 Acres, the Fortification intire. Nature has so well strengthened it, that 1000 Men may defend it against a very great Army: it is incompassed with a Valley, and a very steep Hill, inaccessible by an Army any-where but at the Point of Entrance, which is by a gradual Ascent of a Quarter of a Mile.
The
Beryslade,
a House possessed by
John Cross,
Esq
tho' low and in the Dirt, is now an agreeable Summer-house; which it owes chiefly to
St. Faith
's Well, a fine Spring at
Ravensburg.
A moory Piece of Ground, where the Spring rises, is cut into Canals, which are stocked with Trouts, many of them 22 Inches long. These having been used to take their Food from the Master's Hand, out of a Bowl with a long Handle to it, come rolling up to the Surface. The Bottom is white, either from Chalk or Sand; and so transparent, that every Fish may be seen that comes out of its Hole. To preserve them from Groping, the Banks are wharfed, and in some Places supported with Timber; so that the Fish can shelter themselves underneath; and a Man must have his Head and Shoulders in Water, who stoops down to them. From hence the Water feeds a large Canal in the Garden stored with Carp and Tench; and there might be made Basons or Canals to any Dimensions.
Near
Hexton
is a Square
Roman
Camp upon a Promontory just big enough for the Purpose, and under it is a fine Spring.
Lilibo
is a fine Plot of Ground upon a Hill, where a Horse-race is kept. It lies a little South of
Hexton,
just by the
Ikening.
Near
Pirton
Church has been a Castle of the
Saxons
or
Normans,
with a Keep.
I proceeded next to
Baldock,
situated on the
Ikening-street,
as it leads from
Dunstable
to
Royston.
It is a large Market-town, 29 computed Miles from
London.
It is of chief Note for its many Maltsters. The Church stands in the Middle of the Town; it is a handsome high-built Edifice, with a Ring of Six good Bells. It has Three Chancels, but the Two outward are rather Chapels. The
Ikening-street,
about
Baldock
now appears but like a Field-way. Between
Baldock
and
Icleford
it goes thro' an Intrenchment, consisting of the Remains of a
British
Town, now called
Wilbury-hill. Icleford
retains the Name of the Street, which at this Place passes a Rivulet with a strong Ford, wanting Reparation.
This Street, quite to the
Thames
in
Oxfordshire,
goes at the Bottom of a continued Ridge of Hills, called the
Chiltern,
being Chalk, and the natural and civil Boundary between the Counties of
Hertford
and
Bedford,
very steep Northward.
As the
Ikening-street
and the
Foss
traversed the Kingdom from South-west to North-east, parallel to each other, and
Watling-street
crossed these quite the contrary Way with an equal Obliquity, the
Herman-street
passed directly North and South. This Word is
Saxon,
and signifies a Soldier or Warrior, which Name it obtained from being a Military Way.
It begins at
Newhaven,
at the Mouth of the River
Ouse
in
Sussex,
and passes on the West Side of that River, thro'
Radmil,
then thro'
Lewis
by
Isfield
; after which it seems to pass over the River at
Sharnbridge,
and so proceeds to
East Grinstead
; but is lost in passing thro' the great Woods. Then thro'
Surry
it goes by
Stane-street, Croydon, Stretham,
and by its pointing we may conclude was originally designed to pass the
Thames
at the Ferry called
Stangate
by
Lambeth,
where it coincides with the
Watling-street.
There the Road went, before
London
became considerable: but since that Period the Traces of the Roads near that Capital have grown very obscure. The original Road perhaps passes thro' unfrequented Ways near
Enfield,
and
Harman-street,
which seems from thence to have borrowed its Name.
On the Eastern Side of
Enfield
Chace by
Bush-hill,
is a circular
British
Camp upon an Eminence, declining South-west. But the antient Road appears upon a Common on this Side
Hertford
by
Ball's-park,
and passes the River below
Hertford
; then, goes thro'
Ware-park,
and falls into the present Road on this Side
Buntingford,
and so to
Royston,
where it crosses the
Ikening-street,
coming from
Tring
thro'
Dunstable,
going into
Suffolk.
These are the principal Places upon the Two Roads, which we thought fit to mention together.
At
Baldock
I crossed the North Road, and got into the Third Division I proposed, next
Cambridgeshire
and
Essex
; and when I have passed thro' it, I will return back again South, and take a View of such Towns as lie on the East Side of the middle Division as I have not been at already.
In the Year 1724, between
Caldecot
and
Henxworth,
several
Roman
Antiquities were dug up. Workmen, digging Gravel for the Repair of the great Northern Road, struck upon some earthen Vessels or large Urns, full of Ashes and burnt Bones, but rotten; near them a human Skeleton, with the Head towards the South-east, the Feet North-west. Several Bodies were found in the same Position, not above a Foot under the Surface of the Earth, and with Urns, great or small, near them, and Patera's of fine red Earth, some with the Impression of the Maker at the Bottom; also Glass Lacrymatories, Ampulla's, a Brass Tribulus, Six small Glasses, Two large Beads of a Green Colour, and other Fragments.
I went thro' the Village of
Ashwell,
which stands not far from
Caldecot,
on the Source of the
Rhee,
by the Borders of
Cambridgeshire,
which breaks out of a Rock here from many Springs, with such Force as to form a Stream remarkably clear, but so cold, that it gripes Horses not used to drink it. The Water here bubbles out at as many Places, and as abundantly, and in just such a Bottom under a Hill, as doth the
Isis
or
Thames
in
Gloucestershire.
In
Domesday Book
this Village is called a Borough, having Fourteen Burgesses, and a Market; antiently also it had Four Fairs. Mr.
Camden
thinks the Village
Roman
; and at half a Mile Distance, South of this Source of the
Rhee,
is a Spot of Ground taken in by a Vallum, and generally thought to be one of the
Castra Exploratorum
of the
Romans
; it is called
Arbury Banks,
and consists of about 12 Acres, and
Roman
Coins have been found here; but still it wants several Requisites, that go to a
Roman
Camp, which I have not room to particularize.
Ashwell-field
affords a Stone Quarry, out of which the Stones of most of the Churches of this Side, and the neighbouring Part of
Bedfordshire,
have been dug. The Church has a handsome Chancel, Three large Ayles, a lofty Tower at the West End, with a Ring of Six Bells, and a Chapel on the North Side the Chancel.
I now come to
Royston,
situated upon the utmost Northern Border of
Hertfordshire,
insomuch that Part of it is in
Cambridgeshire,
33 computed Miles from
London.
The Fields about this Towns have upon almost every Eminence a Barrow, and they lie very thick by the
Ikening-street,
East of this Town. Here was a Monastery founded in Honour of St.
Thomas à Becket,
as also an Hospital, both swallowed up in the Dissolution of
Henry
VIII. but the Priory-church was purchased by the Inhabitants, and made a Parish-church of. It consists of a Nave, and an Ayle on each Side, and a square Tower with a Ring of Five Bells in it.
The Town became populous, on erecting the present Post-road through it, which before ran along the
Ermine-street,
thro'
Barkw
iggleswade.
It is now a good Town, and well
, and has a very great Corn-market on
Wednesdays,
and is full of good Inns. In the Year 1716, a School-house was erected here by Contribution of the Town and Country.
Two Miles both Ways of
Royston
is chalky Soil; about
Puckeridge
it is gravelly: in other Places adjoining are Camps, and
Roman
Antiquities. At
Hadstock
is the Skin of a
Danish
King nailed upon the Church Doors, as reported.
Royston
was a
Roman
Town before
Roisia
built her religious House here; for
Roman
Coins have been dug up near the Spot. There seems to be the Stamp of
Roisia
's Cross still remaining at the Corner of the Inn, just where the Two Roads meet. The Earl of
Oxford,
digging Canals at
Wimple,
when he had that Seat, found many Bodies, and rusty Pieces of Iron, the Remains of some Battle.
And now I bend my Course Southward, towards
London.
The Church of
Therfield,
which lies among the Hills, a little South of
Royston,
is obliged to
Francis
Lord Bishop of
Ely,
once Rector of it, who paved the Chancel with Free-stone, the Area of the Altar with Marble; wainscoted the Walls, made it into the Form of a Choir, and ceiled it with Fret-work. 'Tis a Rectory of great Value, and is rated in the First-fruits Office, at 50
l.
a Year. Till lately was at
Therfield
Furniture of all Sorts for the Use of poor Peoples Weddings, such as was at
Braughing
; but they are now lost, or converted to other Uses, even literally to Ploughshares and Pease-hooks.
Barkway
is a Market-town. The Church stands in the midst of the Town, with an Ayle on each Side, and a Tower with Five Bells, and a Turret-clock. The Creation of the World is painted on one of the Windows. In one Pane at Top is a bodily Representation of the Deity, as a Man in a loose R
be, down to his Feet, with the Globe before him, and the Motto under,
De operae primae diei.
The next Pane has the same, with Hands expanded, standing on the Firmament, in the midst of the Water; under which,
De opere Secundae diei.
The Third has the same Figure, amongst green Trees and Herbs; the Legend lost, and Three other Panes, in Order, under these. The Painting of the Fourth is lost. The Fifth has the same Figure, with Birds flying about it. A Piece of the Sixth remains, where Fowls and Beasts are brought to
Adam
to be named. Another Window, in the North Isle, has St.
George
slaying a Dragon, a Bishop,
&c.
The
Roman
Road, called
Ermine-street,
passes thro' the Parish of
Amsty
; and all the Way upon it we find Remains of Camps and Stations, exactly according to the Itinerary. The Castle formerly here, was said to be built by
Eustace
Earl of
Bologne,
at the Conqueror's Command; and it is not improbable, that there were Fortifications before. It consisted of a Keep, or round artificial Hill, yet remaining, with a large and deep Fosse about it; the Mount, probably, made from the Ditch. The Barons, in King
John
's Time, made another Retrenchment South of it, which would contain a Garison as numerous as the Castle would hold.
Henry
III. obliged
Nicolas de Avestic
to demolish the additional Fortification, and keep up only the old one.
The Church was built in the Reign of
Henry
III. as is said, out of the Stones of the demolished Fortifications made additional to the Castle. It is certainly very old, and built with a low Tower in the Middle, and Two Ayles. The Chancel, perhaps, was rebuilt with the Materials of the Keep, being of later Date. It is large and lofty, and hath Stalls, as if for a Choir.
Buntingford
is the next Town, and lies in the
Cambridge
Road, noted for a great Thorough-fare, 28 computed Miles from
London,
and owes its Being as a Town to the present Post-road through it to the North. The first Mention of it is in the Reign of
Edward
III. who gave a Market and a Fair to it. It is situated in
Layston
Parish; but has a Chapel of Brick, built by Contribution for the Inhabitants here. Dr.
Seth Ward
Bishop of
Salisbury,
who died
Jan.
6. 1688, built a neat Brick-house near the Chapel, for Four poor Men, and Four poor Women, who had lived handsomely, and came to Decay thro' Misfortunes; each of which has Two Rooms below, and Two above.
Buntingford
Free-school owes much also to the same worthy Prelate, who had his Education in it. He built, 1683, an Hospital at
Salisbury,
for Ten poor Widows of Clergymen, was a Benefactor to
Layston,
gave a good Sum of Money to make
Salisbury
River navigable; 600
l.
to be laid out in Land, for putting out Three poor Children Apprentices, Two out of
Alseden,
and One out of
Layston,
alternately. In short, the good Bishop seems to have thought, that the Revenues he reaped from the Church, ought to have some other more publick Designation, than to lift out of Obscurity a private Family.
Braughing
lies a little on the East of the Road, was antiently, next to
Verulam,
the most considerable Place in the County, and is thought to have been the
Roman Caesaromagum,
situated 28 Miles from
London,
as by
Antoninus
's
Itinerary.
It still has some Ruins of its antient Eminence, giving Name to the Deanry and the Hundred. On the West Side the
Ermin-street,
now the Road to
Cambridge,
we find the Ruins of a
Roman
Camp. The Church is an handsome Building, and hath a Ring of Five good Bells.
Near the Church-yard is an old House, at present inhabited by poor Families, which was given with all Sorts of Furniture for Weddings. They brought hither their Provisions, and had a large Kitchen, with a Caldron, large Spits and Dripping-pan; a large Room for Merriment; a Lodging-room with a Bride-bed and good Linen; some of which Furniture was in being a few Years ago.
This Provision was also at
Therfield,
and the Kitchen Utensils, but lately lost.
We proceeded thro'
Puckridge,
a little Hamlet Town, but a great Thorough-fare, standing on the
Ermin-street,
where there are several good Inns for Travellers, and came to
Standon,
a small Market-town. The Church hath Three Ayles; the Floor of the Chancel is Seven Steps above that of the Church, and the Altar Three Steps above the Chancel-floor.
Here we turn'd short to the East, to visit
Bishop-Stortford,
lying on the Borders of
Essex,
27 Miles from
London.
The Conqueror gave this Town and Castle to the Bishop of
London,
whence its
Praenomen
; and King
John
seized and demolished it, for the Offence of the then Bishop, who was one of those who published the Pope's Interdict against the Nation. The Town, in the same Reign, was incorporated, and returned Members to Seven successive Parliaments. The Bishop was restored by the same Prince, and Satisfaction made him for demolishing the Castle. The Hill or Keep of the Castle is artificial, made of Earth carried thither, with a Breast-work at Top of Stones and Morter. A Bank of Earth leads from it thro' the moory Ground, on which it was situated, to the North-east. There is a large Wall from the Top of the Hill yet remaining. The Bishop's Prison was in being in Bishop
Bonner
's Time; tho' all the old Buildings are since demolished. But the Castle-guard is still paid by several Places to the Bishop, besides other Quit-rents.
The Town is large, and well-built; it is a Thorough-fare from
London
to
Cambridge, New-market,
and
St. Edmundsbury,
and full of convenient Inns. It is built in the Form of a Cross, having four Streets turn'd to the Cardinal Points, and the River
Stort
runs thro' it.
The Church dedicated to
St. Michael,
is lofty, and stands on high Ground; it hath a fine Ring of Eight Bells. There were antiently Three Guilds and a Chantry founded here. In the Church are Nine Stalls on a Side, for a Choir. On the North Side the Church is a Gallery for the young Gentlemen of the School, built by Contribution; upon it Sir
John Hobart
's Arms, who was educated there, and a great Benefactor to this Work.
At the West End is another Gallery, built a few Years ago, upon which is an Organ; and it is observable, that there was an Organ in this Church so long ago as in the Reign of
Henry
VII. A new Font stands before it, with a Pavement of Black and White Marble, inclosed with Iron Ralis.
There are a great Number of Monuments in the Church, particularly one in the North Ayle, for Seven Children of
Edward Maphesden,
who died of the Small-pox, with a
Latin
Inscription, deploring that heavy Dispensation.
Several Benefactions are bestowed on the Poor of this Town, particularly Two Alms-houses in
Potters-street.
But the greatest Ornament of the Town is the School, built 35 Years ago, by Contribution of the Gentlemen of
Hertfordshire
and
Essex,
at the Request of Dr.
Thomas Tooke
late Master, who also procured several Sums for completing it, from the young Gentlemen educated here. When this Gentleman engaged in it, it was at the lowest Ebb of Reputation; but he raised it to a great Degree of Fame, and considerably increased the Trade of the Town, by the beneficial Concourse that it brought thither. He revived the annual School-feast, and charged his own Estate with a yearly Present to the Preacher on that Occasion. He died
May
4. 1721, after upwards of 30 Years successful and diligent Labours here. By his Interest and Care the Gallery in the Church, for the Use of the School, was erected: He gave a Chalice of 20
l.
Value to the Church, and was a great Benefactor to the School Library, which is a very good one, and was first set on foot by the Reverend Mr.
Thomas Leigh,
B. D. who was Vicar of the Church
Anno
1680.
The School stands in the High-street, with the West Front to the Church-yard, consisting of Three Rooms, which, with the Stair-case, make a square Building. The Grammar School takes up half of it, all the Front to the Street; the other Two are the Library, and Writing-school. These stand upon Arches, under which are a Market and Shops, which are the Property of the Parish; and here the School was built at the Desire of the Inhabitants, who got by it a Covering for their Market, and at the same time an Ornament to their Town.
Every Gentleman at leaving the School presents a Book to the Library.
Hadham Parva
stands a little North of
Bishop-Stortford,
and is of chief Note for being the Burying-place of the
Capels,
Earls of
Essex.
The Manor of
Rye,
in the Parish of
Stansted-Abbots,
is famous for the Plot, called thence
the Rye-house Plot,
said to be formed for assassinating King
Charles
II. in his Return from
New-market
; for which several Persons suffered, and among the rest the Tenant of the Place,
Rumball,
a Man of a daring and intrepid Spirit.
Honesdon,
separated from
Essex
by the
Stort,
deserves to be mentioned for Three Reasons; first, for its noble Situation upon a gravelly rising Ground, overlooking the Meadows; 2dly, for being the Residence of the Children of King
Henry
VIII. in whose Hands it was then, on account of its good Air, and Vicinity to
London
; and 3dly, for the Seat of
Robert Chester,
Esq
built within these few Years, inclosed with a Park. It stands upon a beautiful Hill, overlooking the Meadows, the River
Stort,
and Part of
Essex,
from the back Front; from the other it hath a Prospect over great Part of
Hertfordshire,
and is seen from
Cheshunt
Common, on one hand, as
St. Paul
's is from the other. At the Entrance of the Avenue it hath a large Basin, thro' which runs a small Stream, and there is a graceful Plantation of Trees, with Variety of Slopes, adorned with Statues. The same Stream afterwards feeds a Canal.
We pursued our Way directly South, and came to
Sawbridgeworth,
or
Sabsworth.
Among several antient Monuments in the Church, is an handsome one erected to the Memory of General
Lumly,
Brother to the then Earl of
Scarborough,
with an Inscription greatly to his Honour. As follows:
"Here lieth the Honourable HENRY LUMLEY,
Esq
only Brother to
Thomas
Earl of
Scarborough
; who was in every Battle, and at every Siege, as Colonel, Lieutenant-General, or General of the Horse, with King
William,
or the Duke of
Marlborough,
in Twenty Campaigns, in
Ireland, Flanders,
and
Germany
; where he was honoured, esteemed and beloved by our own Army, by our Allies, and even by the Enemies, for his singular Politeness and Humanity, as well as for all his military Virtues and Capacity. He sat long in Parliament, always zealous for the Honour of the Crown, and for the Good of his Country; and knew no Party, but that of Truth, Justice, and Honour. He died Governor of the Isle of
Jersey,
the 18th of
October
1722, in the 63d Year of his Age."
The Manor House of
Pish
bury,
in
Sabsworth
Parish, deserves to be mentioned on account of its remarkable Strength, (though built in Queen
Elizabeth
's Time) and lofty Rooms. It is situated on a clean Soil, has handsome Avenues to it, with the River
Stort
behind, which communicates with the Canals in the Gardens. It is in the Possession of the Family of
Gardiner.
We then cross'd the Country directly West to
Ware,
situated 20 Miles from
London,
on the River
Lee,
in its Course from
Milford.
The Town stands low, upon a Level with the River. It is a Place of great Trade for all sorts of Grain, but chiefly Malt, which is conveyed in great Quantities to
London,
by the River
Lee,
which is navigable from hence; and the Barges bring Coals,
&c.
It consists of one principal Street a Mile long, and other back Streets and Lanes. At an Inn in this Town is the famous great Bed, which is 12 Feet square.
Ware
being 20 Miles from
London,
is the second Post Town from thence on the Northern Road. The next is
Royston,
13 Miles further. Several Alms-houses, and a Free-school, and other Charities belong to this Town.
Thomas Byde,
Esq
Lord of the Manor, has a House pleasantly situated in the Park here, to which is an Ascent of every Side; also a Vineyard newly planted. One late Improvement, besides many others, is, a Cut from the
Rib,
which by that Means turns that Stream thro' the Park on the South Side, which is a fine Nursery and Protection for Trouts.
In the North Part of the Town was situated the Priory, now in the Possession of the Family of
Hadsley.
An eminent Tradesman of
Ware,
having lost by Death a favourite Mare, which he had had many Years; in Consideration of her good Services, made, in
March
1739, a grand Burying for her, and invited near 300 People to it. He and his Wife going next the Carcase, as chief Mourners, were followed by the rest of the Company in Couples; and about Four o'Clock she was interred in
Hare-lane-field,
near the Town, with great Pomp: After which the Company returned, and were treated with Plum Cake and Strong Beer, at the Mourner's House, who expressed great Concern for the Loss of the valuable Creature.
At
Blake
's-
ware,
the most Eastern Part of the Parish, is a Seat of
William Plummer,
Esq
with a Stream called the
Ash,
on the East Front, which feeds a Canal and a Garden by the River-side. The chief Gardens are seen from the western Front, which being upon a Declivity, afford an handsome Prospect that Way.
A little South of
Ware
lies
Amwell,
a Village, famous for giving Rise to the
New River,
which proceeding in a direct Course by the Church, receives a Spring which flows with great abundance. It is 20 Miles from
London
; but the Course of the River is computed at 36. It was begun by Sir
Hugh Middleton
; but he being ruined by the Project, the City of
London
undertook it, and by Aid of an Act of Parliament, brought it to Perfection. The yearly Profit of the River has, some Years ago, been computed at 30000
l.
and the Expence in supporting and keeping it up, is said to amount to half the Profit. 'Twas divided originally into 72 Shares, one Moiety whereof belonged to private Persons, and the other to the Crown: For King
James
I. for the sake of his Palace at
Theobalds,
was a great Promoter of it. The Crown's Moiety is since come into private Hands; who however have no Part in the Management; for the Corporation consists of 29 of the Proprietors of the first 36 Shares.
This River, in Fact, draws most of its Water from the
Lee
; which being the Property of the City of
London,
that Corporation opposed a Bill brought into Parliament, for giving further Powers to the
New River
Company, to benefit itself by the
Lee
River: But the Opposition availed not, and in the Session 1738-9 the Bill passed into a Law.
The Governors of the
New River
Company agreed with the Proprietors of the Lands on the River
Lee,
for a Cut of Two cubick Feet of Water from the said River, at a certain Rate; and after the Agreement, they told them they would double the Price for a Four-foot Cut; which the Proprietors agreed to, not considering the great Disproportion of the Two Cuts. And this Cut of the River
Lee
supplies the largest Share of the
New River
Water.
We kept along the great Road, thro'
Hoddesdon,
(which is a considerable Market-town, and noted also as a Thoroughfare) till we came to
Broxbourn,
which lies near it on the
New River
; a small, but pleasant Village, situated on a rising Ground, having pleasant Meadows down to the River
Lee.
On the Lefthand of the Village is
Broxbournbury,
the Seat of the Lord
Monson.
The House is large, and in the old
Gothick
Style, and situated in the Middle of the Park (which has been planted and beautified of late). There are also new Offices erected at a little Distance from the House, in a Quadrangle, on the same Plan with the King's
Meuse
at
Charing-cross.
They are placed behind a large Plantation of Trees, so that they do not appear until you are near upon them, yet are at a convenient Distance from the Mansion-house, which I was informed his Lordship also proposes to rebuild.
The Manor of
Theobalds
is in this Neighbourhood, where formerly was built a magnificent Seat by Lord Treasurer
Burleigh,
who gave it his younger Son Sir
Robert Cecil,
and he exchanged it for that of
Hatfield,
at the Desire of King
James
I. who made it his Sporting Seat; and here ended his Life. From this Place
Charles
I. set out to erect his Standard at
Nottingham.
King
Charles
II. made a Grant of it to
Monck,
Duke of
Albemarle,
and to his Male Issue, which failing in his Son
Christopher,
King
William
gave it to
Bentinck,
Earl of
Portland,
in whose Grandson, the present Duke, it still continues. In the late Civil Wars the Palace was plundered and defaced; and is become a poor Village, from a Royal Residence. The great Park, which was inclosed within a Wall of 10 Miles Compass, by King
James,
is now converted into Farms. The Place is however popular, and the
New River
runs just by, and sometimes thro' the Gardens of the Inhabitants. In this Neighbourhood
Richard Cromwell,
the abdicated Protector, passed the last Part of his Life in a very private Manner.
Waltham-cross
is the next, and, as you enter
Middlesex
by the North Road, the last Place in
Hertfordshire,
standing just on the Edge of
Middlesex.
It is noted for, and takes its Name from, the Cross, built by King
Edward
I. in Honour of his beloved Queen
Eleanor,
whose Corps, in its Way from
Lincolnshire
to
Westminster,
rested here; as a Cross was built at every Stage where it rested, and
Charing-cross
was the last. That Princess's Effigies placed round the Pillar and the Arms of her Royal Consort, as well as her own,
viz. England, Castile, Leon,
and
Poictou,
are still remaining, tho' much defaced.
And thus much for the County of
Hertford,
with which I conclude myself, Sir,
Yours, &c.
LETTER IV. CONTAINING A Description of Part of
BUCKINGHAMSHIRE,
of the County of
OXFORD,
and Part of
WILTS.
SIR,
I NOW proceed to give you an Account of my next Journey thro' Part of
Bucks,
into
Oxfordshire,
and shall touch upon some Parts of
Wiltshire,
of which I have not-yet taken notice.
On the Right-hand, as we ride from
London
to
Uxbridge
or to
Colebrook,
we see
Harrow
; the Church of which standing on the Summit of an Hill, and having a very high Spire, they tell us, King
Charles
II. ridiculing the warm Disputes among some critical Scripturalists of those Times, concerning the
Visible
Church of Christ upon Earth; used to say, This was it.
From
Uxbridge
we proceeded on the Road towards
Oxford,
and came to
Beaconsfield,
a small Town on the Road to
Oxford,
full of good Inns, and situated on a dry Hill, famous for the Residence of Mr.
Edmund Waller,
eminent for his poetical Talent.
Then we went on to
Wickham,
commonly call'd
High
or
Chipping Wycoomb,
from
Coomb,
a
British
Word for Valley. This is a large Town, consisting of one great principal Street, branching out into divers small ones. It is full of good Houses and Inns, being a great Thorough-fare from
London
to
Oxford.
Not far from
Wickham
lies
Amersham
or
Agmondesham,
a small Market-town, very antient; and a little beyond it you go thro'
Chesham,
a little inconsiderable Market-town; and likewise
Wendover,
a mean, dirty corporate Town. From hence we proceeded to
Aylesbury,
which is the largest and best Town in the County.—It stands on a Hill, but the Country round it is low and dirty. It consists of several large Streets, and has a handsome built Market-house, which stands in a kind of Quadrangle. It has also a Town-house, where the Assizes and Sessions, and other publick Meetings of the County, are held. Provisions are here cheap and plentiful, which is owing to the rich Vale adjoining. It was a strong Town in the Beginning of the
Saxons
Time, and a Manor Royal in that of the
Conqueror
's, who parcell'd it out under this odd Tenure, That the Tenants should find
Litter or Straw for the King's Bed-chambers
Three times a Year, if he came that Way so often, and provide him Three Eels in Winter, and Three Green Geese in Summer; which would be but a mean Entertainment at Bed and Board for a King in these Days.
All round this Town is a large Track of the richest Land in
England,
extended for many Miles almost from
Tame,
on the Edge of
Oxfordshire,
to
Leighton
in
Bedfordshire,
and is called from this very Town,
The Vale of Aylesbury.
It is famous for fattening Cattle and Sheep, and 'tis frequent that they sell a Ram here for Breeding for Ten Pounds. Here it was, that conversing with some Gentlemen who understood Country Affairs, (for all Gentlemen hereabouts are Graziers, tho' all the Graziers are not Gentlemen) they shewed me one remarkable inclosed Field of Pasture-ground, which was lett for 1400
l. per Ann.
to a Grazier; and I knew the Tenant very well, whose Name was
Houghton,
who confirmed the Truth of it.
The late Duke of
Wharton
had a very fine Seat at
Winchenden,
and another much finer nearer
Windsor,
called
Ubourn.
But the Catastrophe that has befallen this once flourishing and truly noble Family, is too melancholy, and too well known, to be animadverted upon here.
Near this Place lies
Chilton,
famous for giving Birth to that steddy Patriot the Lord Chief Justice
Crook,
who strenuously opposed the arbitrary Measures of levying Ship-money without the Authority of Parliament.
South-west of
Aylesbury
lies the Market-town of
Tame,
situated on the Side of a Meadow, and almost incompassed with Rivulets. It consists of one long broad Street. The Church is large and fine, in Form of a Cross; near which are the Ruins of a Priory. A Pot of
Roman
Coin was found here about 15 Years since.
The
Thame
joins the other Branch, named also the
Thames,
at
Dorchester,
in
Oxfordshire.
In this Vale of
Aylesbury
flourished the great and antient Family of
Hampden,
for many Ages, in the Enjoyment of very large Estates, which, like that of
Wharton,
are now dissipated.
At the Confluence of the
Thame
and
Isis,
stands
Dorchester,
a Town of Note among the antient
Romans,
and in the Year 634 was made a Bishop's See, till
Remigius,
in 1094, removed it to
Lincoln.
It has a very large Church, and a fine large Stone Bridge, of great Length and Antiquity.
East of
Aylesbury
lies
Ivingo,
a pleasant Market-town situate among Woods, in a Nook, or kind of Peninsula, which runs in between
Bedfordshire
and
Hertfordshire.
We passed forward North-west thro'
Win
low,
a small Market-town, to
Buckingham,
the County-Town, situated in a low, fruitful Ground, surrounded by the
Ouze
on all Sides but the North. 'Tis govern'd by a Bailiff and Capital Burgesses. The Castle is now old and ruinous, and the Buildings of the Town are also old. It has Three Stone Bridges over the River, and a well-built Church, and a Chapel built by Archbishop
Becket,
which is now used for a Free-school. Several Paper-mills are erected on the
Ouze,
and the Town is divided into two Parts; one where the Church stands, and the other where the Townhall is. The County Gaol, and Court, are kept here, and sometimes the Assizes.
Going still farther Northward, we come to the following Towns:
Stony Stratford
is remarkable for standing on the
Roman
Causeway, called
Watling-street.
It is an antient and well-known Thoroughfare Town in the
Chester
Road from
London.
It is large, and well-built of Stone, has Two Churches in it, and a Cross erected by
Edward
I. to the Honour of his Queen
Eleanor,
and has a good Stone Bridge over the River. The principal Manufacture, as well in the Neighbourhood as in the Town, is Bone-lace.
Newport-pagnell
is a large well-built, populous Town, seated on the River
Ouze,
over which it has Two large Stone Bridges. It carries on a great Trade in Bone-lace, and the same Manufacture imploys also the neighbouring Villages.
Oulney
is a pretty good Town, where also is carried on a considerable Manufacture of Bone-lace. It lies on the Extremity of the County.
We then fell down, back again, to
Buckingham
; and following the great Road North-west, we came to
Brackley,
in
Northamptonshire,
situate on the River
Ouze,
an antient large corporate Town, in which are Two Parish Churches. It had formerly a College, but it is now used for a Free-school. It is governed by a Mayor and Aldermen; and the Market used to be the Staple for Wool, in that County; but it is now removed.
We next came to
Banbury
in
Oxfordshire,
on the River
Charwell.
It is a large Market-town under the Government of a Mayor and Aldermen. It has a considerable Trade, especially in Cheese, as all the Country round it is a rich feeding Meadow-ground. Here the famous
Make-king,
Earl of
Warwick,
surprised the Earl of
Pembroke
and his Brother, of the Party of
Edward
IV. and beheaded them.
On the Borders of this County Westward from this Town in
Warwickshire,
was the famous Battle of
Edge-hill,
fought between the Forces of King
Charles
I. and those of the Parliament; where, tho' the Victory was dubious, yet the Advantage, in the Event, inclined to the King's Side; for he thereupon took Lord
Say
's House at
Broughton,
and
Banbury
Castle, in which were 800 Foot, and a Troop of Horse.
Edge-hill
lies at the West End of the Vale of
Redhorse,
and gives a most extensive Prospect. It is steep to the North, and on the Top of it, at
Warmlington,
is a strong large Entrenchment, said to be
Danish,
but looks more like
British.
On the Descent of the Hill, between
Radway
and
Keynton,
was fought the aforementioned Battle; here also they shew where the Slain were bury'd, and have a Tradition, that King
John
had a Palace, and resided at
Keyntor.
There was likewise, at
Cropredy
Bridge, an Encounter between the
Royalists
and the
Parliamentarians
under
Waller
's Command.
West of
Edge-hill
stands
Shipton,
a little Town, which has a very large Market.
Banbury
gave Title of Earl to the noble Family of
Knolles,
which it seems became extinct in 1632, when the last Earl died; but his Wife, marrying
Nicolas
Lord
Vaux,
had a Son by him, who took the Name of
Knolles,
and the Title of Earl; but was never summoned to Parliament, nor his Son after him, who is now living, and commonly called Lord
Banbury.
From hence we rode Southward to
Deddington,
a large Town, but a very small Market. It is govern'd by a Bailiff, and did formerly return Members to Parliament.
We turned a little East, and came to
Bicester,
a straggling indifferent Town; but remarkable for having had once a famous City in its Neighbourhood, called
Aldchester,
long since passed over by the Plough; and where many
Roman
Coins, Stones, and other Antiquities are found; which was undoubtedly the
Maima
of
Ravennas. Bicester
is famous for excellent Malt Liquor, and has had formerly a Religious House.
Islip
lying directly in our Way to
Oxford,
we passed thro' it. It is remarkable for the Birth of
Edward the Confessor,
and that Dr.
South,
as well as other eminent Divines, were Ministers here. There are some Remains of an antient Palace still left.
From hence I came to
Oxford,
famous for several Things, but chiefly for its being the most flourishing and considerable University in the World.
There has been a long Contest between the Two
English
Universities, about the Priority of their Foundations, which perhaps will never be decided, and so I pass it over.
It is out of Question, that in the Largeness of the Place, the Beauty of Situation, the Number of Inhabitants, and of Scholars,
Oxford
has the Advantage. In short,
Oxford
has several Things as an University, which
Cambridge
has not; and
Cambridge
has several Things in it, which cannot be found in
Oxford.
For Example,
The Theatre, the Museum or Chamber of Rarities, the
Bodleian
Library, the Number of Colleges, and the Magnificence of their Buildings, are on the Side of
Oxford
; yet
King's
College Chapel, and College, is in favour of
Cambridge,
being one of the finest Structures of its kind that can be seen; and the new Buildings erected lately there, make that whole University still more considerable in this way.
Oxford
is a noble flourishing City, so possessed of all that can contribute to make the Residence of the Scholars easy and comfortable, that no Spot of Ground in
England
goes beyond it. It is situated in a delightful Plain, on the Bank of a fine navigable River, in a plentiful Country, and at an easy Distance from
London.
The City itself is large, populous and rich: and as it is adorn'd by the most beautiful Buildings of Colleges and Halls, it makes the most noble Figure of any City of its Bigness in
Europe.
We shall present our Readers with a List of the Colleges and Halls in this famous City, with a brief History of them; but must observe, that as it would exceed our Limits to give an Account of the particular Benefactions by which their Revenues and Buildings are so splendidly augmented, we shall only mention such of those Benefactions as have been conferred within so few Years back, that they are not likely to be found in other Authors.
Of the
COLLEGES
and
HALLS
in
OXFORD.
1. UNIVERSITY COLLEGE
IS situate near the East Gate of the City. 'Tis so very antient, that we are left in the dark, as to the Time of its Foundation. That it was in being before the Year 721, is certain; but how much sooner, is not evident. King
Alfred
could not be so properly called the Founder of this University, as the Restorer, after the
Danish
Devastations. In the Year 1332, this College was recover'd into a State of Liberty and Independency, by a Sum of Money, which
William
of
Durham
had left for the Maintenance of a Society of Students in
Oxford,
from whom it was some time call'd
Durham-hall
; and by other Benefactions it increased to what it now is. It has One Master, Twelve Fellows, Ten Scholars, Two Exhibitioners,
&c.
Before the very noble Benefaction of Dr.
Radcliffe,
it had one large beautiful Quadrangle, or square Court; the South Side of which is divided into a handsome Hall and Chapel. In a Niche before the said Quadrangle, is a Statue of the late Queen
Anne
; and in a Niche on the Inside of the new Quadrangle, since built, is that of Dr.
Radcliffe
; but not extraordinary either of them. The Additions to this College will be mentioned in the Abstract we shall by-and-by give of Dr.
Radcliffe
's Will.
The Visitors are the Vice-Chancellor and Proctors.
2. BALIOL COLLEGE
Stands in the North Part of the Town, in the Suburbs. It was founded by
John Baliol,
Father to the King of
Scots
of that Name, and
Devorguilla
his Wife. The former began it about the Year 1262; the latter, after her Husband's Death, completed and ended it, and gave it a Body of Statutes, which was afterwards inlarged by
Philip Somerville,
a great Benefactor to this College; but that Body was afterwards laid aside, and a more advantageous one substituted in its Room,
Ann.
1507, by the then Bishops of
Winchester
and
Carlisle.
This College has One Master, Twelve Fellows, Thirteen Scholars, and Three Exhibitioners, besides Four others founded by
John Warner,
Bishop of
Rochester,
for
Scotsmen.
It has one large antient Quadrangle, on the Northside of which is the Chapel, and the Library, furnished with a very noble Collection of Books. Sir
Thomas Wendy
gave his Study to it, a few Years ago, valued at 1500
l.
The Visitor is chosen by the College.
3. MERTON COLLEGE,
Situate on the South Side of the City, was founded by
Walter
of
Merton,
Bishop of
Rochester,
Lord High Chancellor of
England.
The Society was first planted at
Maldern,
in
Surrey,
in 1264; and he transferred it to
Oxford, Ann.
1267. The Founder framed his Statutes so admirably, that they were proposed as a Pattern to the Founder of
Peter-house, Cambridge,
by King
Edward
I. This College has a Warden, Twenty Fellows, Fourteen Portionists, or Post-masters,
&c.
The Chapel is the Parish Church of
St. John Baptist
; it is a splendid old Building. The inner large Court or Quadrangle of the College is very beautiful; it has a well-furnished Library, and a fine Garden.
The Visitor is the Archbishop of
Canterbury.
4. EXETER COLLEGE
Is situate on the West Side of the Schools, in the North Part of the Town. It was founded
Ann.
1316, by
Walter Stapledon,
Bishop of
Exeter,
Privy Counsellor to
Edward
II. and Lord Treasurer of
England,
and named
Stapledon-Inn
; and called
Exeter
College afterwards, by
Edmund Stafford
Bishop of
Exeter,
who was a Benefactor to it. It has a Rector, Twenty-three Fellowships,
&c.
It is one large Quadrangle, now made 0regular and uniform by the new Buildings, to which the most Reverend Dr.
Narcissus Marsh,
Archbishop of
Armagh,
formerly a Fellow of it, contributed 1400
l.
It has a very noble Front, over the Gate of which is a splendid Tower.
The Visitor is the Bishop of
Exeter.
5. ORIEL COLLEGE,
Situate on the South Side of the Town, was at first called
St. Mary's
College, and
King's
College, and was founded
Anno
1324, by King
Edward
II. His Son
Edward
III. inlarging the Revenue of it with a rich Messuage, called
Le Oriele,
it took the Name of
Oriel
College. The same Prince annexed to it for a Retiring-place, in case of Pestilence,
&c. St. Bartholomew
's Hospital near
Oxford.
It has a Provost, 18 Fellows, and Twelve Exhibitioners.
It consists of one handsome regular Quadrangle.
The Visitor is the Bishop of
Lincoln.
5. QUEEN'S COLLEGE
Is situate near the Parish Church of
St. Peter
's in the East. It was founded
Anno
1340, by
Robert Eglesfield,
Chaplain or Confessor to
Philippa,
Consort of King
Edward
III. in Honour of whom he called it
Queen's
College, recommending it to her Royal Patronage and Protection, and to that of all future Queens of
England.
There were to be a Provost and Twelve Fellows, out of regard to the Number of Christ and his Apostles, and Seventy Scholars, in Allusion to the Number of the Seventy Disciples; but he died before his Design was completed. The Society consists of a Provost, Fourteen Fellows, Seven Scholars, Two Chaplains, Taberders, whose Number is not always the same,
&c.
Sir
Joseph Williamson
was a special Benefactor to this College, of late times, as
Edward
III. his Queen, Archbishop
Grindall,
and King
Charles
I. were before. As also was its late Provost, Dr.
William Lancaster,
in whose Time were begun those noble and extensive Buildings, which are so justly admir'd; one Side whereof, in which are the Library, the Provost's, and other spacious and stately Lodgings, is 327 Feet long, supported by a Piazza, and adorn'd with Statues,
&c.
The Library is long and lofty, very magnificent without, and well-furnish'd within. The new Chapel and Hall, lately finish'd, answer the other Side of the College.
On the 24th of
May
1733,
Arthur Onslow,
Esq
Speaker of the House of Commons, and Chancellor to her late Majesty Queen
Caroline,
transmitted to the Provost 1000
l.
from her Majesty, as Queen Consort, and Patroness thereof, towards finishing the new Buildings; and her Majesty's Statue is erected there under a kind of Temple, supported by Pillars; but not to the Advantage which the Royal Munificence, and the good Intentions of the College, deserv'd.
And in the Year 1739, we are assured, that Mr.
Michael
of
Richmond
has left an Estate of 700
l. per Annum
to this College, the Income whereof is to finish the East End of the Buildings of the said College on the Plan laid down for that Purpose, and after this to commence a Foundation of Eight Fellows, at 50
l. per Ann.
each, and as many Scholars, at 25
l. per Ann.
each, to be elected from the whole University; those on the present Foundation to be excluded. The Fellowships to be vacated after Ten Years Enjoyment; as they are at
Wadham, Worcester,
and
Pembroke
Colleges after Twenty Years.
The Visitor of this College is the Archbishop of
York.
7. NEW COLLEGE,
Situate on the North-east Part of the Town, was at first called,
The College of the Blessed Virgin Mary
; it was founded
Anno
1386, by
William
of
Wickham,
Bishop of
Winchester,
and Lord High Chancellor, who also founded the College at
Winchester.
It has a Warden, 70 Fellows and Scholars, Ten Chaplains, Three Clerks, Sixteen Choiristers,
&c.
Great Additions have been made to the Beauty and Buildings of this College: besides a third Story that was raised upon the Two original ones of the great Court, at the Society's Expence,
Anno
1674, they have inlarged their Buildings towards the Garden, with two stately and uniform Wings, extending to the Garden; their Chapel is most magnificent, solemn and splendid, with an Organ and Choir. They have a very lofty Tower, with a Ring of fine Bells; and under that and the West End of the Chapel, a very handsome square Cloister, and a little Garden within it. Their Library is well furnished with Books and Manuscripts, and their great Garden laid out in Form. The Front of it is a Range of Iron Palisadoes, and a Gate of exquisite Work; and at the South End they have a Bowling-green. Their Hall, which is at the End of the Chapel, answers to the Magnificence of the rest.
The Visitor is the Bishop of
Winchester.
8. LINCOLN COLLEGE,
Situate in the Middle of the City, was founded in the Year 1427, by
Richard Fleming,
Bishop of
Lincoln
; who dying before it was completed,
Thomas de Rotherham,
Bishop of
Lincoln,
afterwards Lord High Chancellor, and Archbishop of
York,
finish'd it
Anno
1475. It has a Rector, Twelve Fellows, Two Chaplains,
&c.
It has Two small antient Quadrangles, not very regular. The Chapel is beautiful, and built by Archbishop
Williams
; the Windows are very curiously painted.
The Lord
Crew,
Bishop of
Durham,
order'd to take Place from
Michaelmas
1717, the following Benefactions to this College;
viz.
1. Twenty Pounds a Year to the Headship, and 10
l.
a Year to each of the Twelve Fellowships for ever. 2. Ten Pounds
per Ann.
for ever to the Curates of Four Churches belonging to this College. 3. He made up the Bible-clerk's Office, and Eight Scholarships, which were before very mean, 10
l. per Ann.
each for ever. And, 4. Settled, to commence from
Lady-day
1718, 20
l. per Ann.
each on Twelve Exhibitioners for ever.
The Visitor is the Bishop of
Lincoln.
9. ALL-SOULS COLLEGE.
Its Front faces the High-street. It was sounded by
Henry Chichley,
Archbishop of
Canterbury,
for offering up Prayers for all those who fell in the Wars of
Henry
V. in
France.
It has a Warden, Forty Fellows, Two Chaplains, Three Clerks, Six Choiristers,
&c.
Before the new Buildings, it had Two Courts, the larger a regular and stately Edifice. The Chapel was very august and solemn: but the College now appears with a new Face.
Colonel
Christopher Codrington,
Governor of the
Leeward Islands,
bequeath'd to this College 10,000
l.
6,000 of which he order'd to be laid out in building a Library, and the other 4,000
l.
in Books for it, and bequeath'd his own Library to it besides. This Library is 200 Feet long within the Walls, and 32 Feet and half broad; it has Eleven large Windows to the South, and a Window of 17 Feet wide at the East End, and one at the West of the same Dimensions. It is a fine
Gothick
Structure, built so in Conformity to the Chapel. Against the Entrance, in a Niche, is the Statue of the Benefactor, with a suitable Inscription to his Honour; which he forbid to be mention'd on his Monument; on which is only cut the Word
CODRINGTON.
Besides what will be mention'd by-and-by of the Benefactions of Dr.
George Clarke,
in the Abstract we shall give of his Will; that Gentleman in his Life-time adorn'd the Chapel of this College with a magnificent Marble Altar-piece, rich Furniture for the Communion-table of crimson Velvet, trimmed with Gold Lace and Fringe, Books, and Candlesticks,
&c.
Henry Portman,
Esq
also placed at the East End a cloathed Resurrection Piece, painted by Sir
James Thornhill.
And the Hon.
Doddington Greville,
Esq
was at the Expence of painting finely the Ceiling-piece. And there are other additional Ornaments, which render it worthy of the Attention of the Curious.
A very handsome Monument was erected
Anno
1739, in the Chapel of this College, with an Inscription upon it, in Honour of their worthy Benefactor Dr.
Clarke
afore-mentioned.
The Visitor is the Archbishop of
Canterbury.
10. MAGDALEN COLLEGE,
Situate without the East-gate of the Town, was founded
Anno
1458, by
William Patten,
alias
Wainfleet,
Bishop of
Winchester,
and Lord High Chancellor. It has a President, Forty Fellows, a School-master, Thirty Scholars called
Demies,
an Usher, Three Publick Readers, Four Chaplains, Eight Clerks, Sixteen Choiristers, an Organist,
&c.
When the new Buildings to this College, which they are now carrying on, are finished, and which will form a stately Quadrangle, it will be one of the finest in the University; and they have made a great Progress in them.
It had before Two Quadrangles, the innermost of which is regular, and consists of a Library and Lodgings, supported by a spacious Cloister. The Chapel and the great Tower, as also the little one in the West End of the inner Quadrangle, and the Hall, are very lofty and magnificent. They have an exceeding well furnished Library, to which Colonel
Codrington
gave lately 10,000
l.
and a good Collection of Books. Its
Water-walks,
as they are call'd, make this College highly delightful; they are an almost triangular Gravel-walk, fenced with Hedges and Trees on both Sides, surrounded on every Part with a running Stream, and inclosing a large Meadow. Their Grove is also a fine spacious Extent of Ground, planted with stately Vista's of Trees, one Part of which is laid out in a handsome Bowling-green.
The Visitor is the Bishop of
Winchester.
11. BRAZEN-NOSE COLLEGE
Is situate in the middle of the Town, where stood an Hall of the same Name, and a monstrous Nose. It was founded by
William Smyth,
Bishop of
Lincoln,
Counsellor to Prince
Arthur
; and by Sir
Richard Sutton
Kt. It was begun in 1509, and finished 1522. It has a Principal, Twenty Fellows, Thirty-three Scholars, and Exhibitions,
&c.
It consists of Two very handsome Quadrangles; in the lesser of which are the Chapel and Library, and under them a wide and pleasant Cloister, very compactly and elegantly built.
The Visitor is the Bishop of
Lincoln.
12. CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE
Stands on the South Side of the Town. It was founded
Anno
1516, by
Richard Fox,
Bishop of
Winchester,
Lord Privy-seal to the Kings
Henry
VII. and VIII.
Hugh Oldham,
Bishop of
Exeter,
gave 6000 Marks towards the Building, besides Lands towards endowing it. It has a President, Twenty Fellows, Twenty Scholars, Two Chaplains,
&c.
The Structure of the first Court is antient, but within-side very regular and handsome. The Library contains a noble Treasure of Books. Their Hall was beautify'd a few Years ago, and their Gardens, tho' small, are kept very neat. But the most spendid Part of this College is the stately Row of Lodgings erected a few Years ago by their late President, Dr.
Thomas Turner,
who moreover gave them his numerous and valuable Collection of Books.
The Visitor is the Bishop of
Winchester.
12. CHRIST CHURCH.
This College takes up a vast Extent of Ground, and stands on the South Side of the City. It was begun to be founded
Anno
1515, by Cardinal
Wolsey
; but on his Disgrace coming into the King's Hands, and thence called
King's
College, his Majesty, that he might not seem to found any Part of his Fame on another's Bottom, called it
Christ-Church,
and made it an Episcopal See,
Anno
1546. Afterward,
Anno
1563, he joined to it
Canterbury
College, now called
Canterbury Quadrangle,
and
Peckwater-Inn,
now called
Peckwater-Court.
However, the Buildings lay very incomplete for almost 100 Years after, when Dr.
Bryan Duppa,
and Dr.
Samuel Fell,
Deans of this House, and afterwards Dr.
John Fell,
Bishop of
Oxford,
Son of the latter, at different times, by the Help of many generous Benefactors, brought the Buildings to surprising Perfection.
This Foundation is numerous and magnificent, has a Dean, Eight Canons, 101 Students, Eight Chaplains, Eight Singing-men, Eight Choristers, and a Teacher of Musick for them, an Organist, a School-master and Usher, Forty Grammar-scholars, a Virger,
&c.
There is also belonging to it an Hospital in St.
Alat
's Parish, which has Twenty-four Poor. In the stately Tower, in the Front of the Gate, hangs the great Bell, called
Tom
; which was removed thither out of the Steeple of the Cathedral, by Bishop
Fell.
It is Seven Feet and an Inch Diameter, and Five Feet Nine Inches high; and weighs near 17,000 Pounds Weight. This Bell is tolled every Night 101 Strokes, agreeable to the Number of Students in the College, to give Warning for shutting up the Gates in the Colleges and Halls in the University.
The Buildings of this College are very large, august and splendid. The great Quadrangle has a wide and handsome Terrace round it, and a Fountain in the middle.
Peckwater-Quadrangle
is finely rebuilt.
Canterbury
and the Chaplains Quadrangles are also convenient Edifices. The Cathedral is lofty, but no elegant Structure; the Hall and Library high and spacious; and the latter contains a noble Collection of Books, to which Dr.
Aldrich,
late Dean, made a fine Addition. It is impossible, in my narrow Limits, to do Justice to this noble College, which is an University of itself. I shall only add, That Archbishop
Wake,
lately deceased, left to it his Library, and a large Cabinet of Medals, computed to be worth between 8 and 10,000
l.
besides other Bequests.
The Visitor is the King.
14. TRINITY COLLEGE
Stands in the North Suburbs of the Town, where once stood
Durham
College, founded
Anno
1350, by
Thomas Hatfield,
Bishop of
Durham.
At the Dissolution of Abbeys, it running the common Fate, Sir
Thomas Pope,
of
Hertfordshire,
purchased it of those who had got a Grant of it from King
Edward
VI. and obtained a Royal Licence to turn it into a College, which accordingly he did
Anno
1550, by this Name. It has a President, Twelve Fellows, Twelve Scholars,
&c.
It has Two Quadrangles. In the first are the Chapel, the Hall, and the Library. The Chapel was rebuilt
Anno
1693, and the Work of it, both within and without, is wonderfully elegant. The Altarpiece is of Cedar inlaid: the Rails and Screen of Cedar, and all adorn'd with exquisite Carving. The Roof is inrich'd with Fretwork, and an admirable Piece of Painting, representing our Saviour's Ascension. The Pavement, from the Screen to the Altar, is of black and white Marble. On the East Side of the College is a delightful Garden; and at the Entrance and End of the great Walk that goes thro' it, very noble Iron Gates, which have a Prospect open to the whole East Side of the College.
The Visitor is the Bishop of
Winchester.
15. ST. JOHN BAPTIST'S COLLEGE
Is situated in the North Suburbs. It was founded
Anno
1555, by Sir
Thomas White,
Lord Mayor of
London,
in the Place where stood, before the Dissolution,
St. Bernard
's College, built by Archbishop
Chichley.
It has a President, Fifty Fellows and Scholars, an Organist, and Singing-men, Four Choristers,
&c.
It has Two spacious and uniform Quadrangles. The inner Court was built by Archbishop
Laud,
and is very elegant. The East and West-sides of it are supported by noble Piazzas, in the middle of which are Two Portals finely fronted with Pillars and Carving. In one of these Fronts stands a curious Brazen Statue of King
Charles
I. and in the other of his Queen. Their Chapel, which has an Organ and Choir in it, is very handsome. The Library takes up the East and South Sides of the new Quadrangle, and is well stored with Books, Manuscripts, and valuable Curiosities. The Hall is neat, and adorn'd with good Pictures. They have also a Grove, Walks, and Grass-plots,
&c.
Dr.
Sherard,
formerly Consul at
Smyrna,
who died
August
12. 1728, left his Library and Curiosities, which are very valuable, to this College, besides another considerable Legacy.
The Visitor is the Bishop of
Winchester.
16. JESUS COLLEGE
Is situate in St.
Michael
's Parish. It was begun,
Anno
1571, by
Hugh Price,
Professor of Common Law in this University, Prebendary of
Rochester,
&c. who designed it particularly for the Benefit of his Countrymen of
Wales
; but the Endowment that Gentleman made of it, sinking into nothing, Queen
Elizabeth, Anno
1589, gave another Charter at the Society's Request; and having styled herself their Foundress in the first, it is frequently attributed to her. It has met with so many generous Contributors, that it is in a flourishing State, and has a Principal, Sixteen Fellows, Sixteen Scholars, Eight Exhibitioners,
&c.
It has Two large handsome Quadrangles, the innermost very regular and uniform.
The Visitor is the Earl of
Pembroke.
17. WADHAM COLLEGE.
Stands in the North Skirts of the Town. Its Founders were
Nicolas Wadham,
of
Merefield,
in
Somersetshire,
Esq
and
Dorothy
his Wife, Daughter of Sir
William Petre,
Knight, Privy-counsellor to Queen
Elizabeth.
He formed the Design, and died; and she, in Compliance with his Death-bed Request, completed it. It was begun
Anno
1609, and finished 1613. It has a Warden, Fifteen Fellows, Fifteen Scholars, Two Chaplains, Two Clerks,
&c.
This College has one large, regular, beautiful Quadrangle. The Chapel stands out behind the Quadrangle to the East, regularly answering to the Library; and its Windows are finely painted. They have a large Garden, handsomely laid out.
The Visitor is the Bishop of
Bath
and
Wells.
18. PEMBROKE COLLEGE
Is situate on the South Side of the Town. It was formerly an Hall, and called
Broadgate-hall.
It was made a College by the Munificence of
Thomas Tesdale,
Esq
and
Richard Wrightwicke,
B. D. with the Licence of King
James
I.
Anno
1624. The Foundation of the first consisted of Seven Fellows and Six Scholars, the other of Three Fellows and Four Scholars. It had its Name from the Earl of
Pembroke,
then Chancellor.
It has one handsome Quadrangle, the Front of which is a regular neat Piece of Building. A pleasant Garden also belongs to it.
The Visitor is the Chancellor of the University.
19. WORCESTER COLLEGE.
This College was lately called
Gloucester-hall:
After the Dissolution, Sir
Thomas White,
Lord Mayor of
London,
built it, for the Purpose of Education, and called it
St. John Baptist-hall,
tho' still it retained the Name of
Gloucester-hall,
till it acquired a collegiate Endowment by the noble Munificence of Sir
Thomas Cooke,
of
Astely,
in
Worcestershire.
It had, before the late Dr.
George Clarke
's Will in its Favour, of which we shall give an Abstract by-and-by, a Provost, Six Fellows, Six Scholars,
&c.
The Buildings lately added, now adding, and the fine Additions left to it by the said Gentleman, will give this College which had been in no very good Condition for some time, a very advantageous Figure in the University; and it already makes a very stately and splendid Appearance, and will be enabled to make a still better; for on the 2d of
October
1740, died at her Seat near
Gloucester,
Mrs.
Eaton,
one of the Three Coheiresses of Dr.
Birom Eaton,
formerly Principal of this College, when
Gloucester-hall.
This Lady has left a very great Estate, partly to her Relations, and partly to Acts of Munificence, such as the Foundation of Six Fellowships in
Worcester
College, for the Support of which, and the erecting a Pile of Building for them, an Estate of 700
l. per Annum
is bequeath'd. The Corpse of this Lady was honoured by the Attendance of the Vice-chancellor, and all the Heads of Houses, in the University.
20. HERTFORD COLLEGE.
This is a College of a very late Erection indeed; for it was but in
Sept.
1740, that his Majesty's Royal Charter passed the Broad Seal, to erect HART-HALL, as it was before called, into a College; to consist of a Principal, as before; Four Seniors, and Eight Junior Fellows: so that at last the Reverend Dr.
Richard Newton,
the worthy Principal, after an Opposition of several Years, given by some who ought to have assisted his generous View, has obtained a Point which lay very near his Heart: tho' not till several of his worthy Friends (who would have contributed largely to its Endowment, had it been effected in their Time) are demised, which must necessarily be a great Disadvantage to the good Design.
This College, as it now must be called, stands in the Parish of
St. Peter
's in the East. It is supposed to have its Name from the first Syllable of
Elias Hartford
's Surname, who was once Owner of it.
Walter Stapledon,
Bishop of
Exeter,
having bought it, converted it,
Anno
1314, into an Academical Seminary, by the Name of
Stapledon-hall,
and endowed it with Maintenance for Twelve Scholars, which he removed afterwards to
Exeter
College, on building the same; and then this Hall resumed its own Name. It has a Stipend or Exhibition belonging to it, of more than 16
l. per Annum.
It consists of one Quadrangle, not very regular, and the present worthy Principal has made several, and had projected still greater Additions to it, which would have taken place long ago, but for the Reasons above given.
These are the Twenty Colleges, of which at present this famous University consists. There are besides Five Halls, which are Places unendow'd, tho' not destitute of Exhibitions. The Students at these subsist at their own Charge, are under the Government of a Principal and Vice-Principal, and pay the former for their Lodging,
&c.
The Principals are nominated by the Chancellor, except the Principal of
Edmund-hall.
Their Visitor is the Chancellor.
I will give a brief Account of each of these. And
1. ALBAN HALL.
It is situate on the South Side of the Town, and had its Name from
Robert St. Alban,
once Proprietor of the Place. It became Academical about the Year 1230.
The Front makes but a tolerable Appearance; but the Inside falls short even of that.
2. EDMUND HALL
Is situate in the Parish of
St. Peter
's in the East; and has its Name probably from one
Edmund,
a Citizen of
Oxford,
Proprietor of the Place.
Anno
1557, it was purchased by
Queen's
College, and converted to its present Use.
It makes one Quadrangle; on the East Side of which stands a very neat Chapel and Library, built some Years since by the Reverend Mr.
Stephen Penton,
its Principal.
3. ST. MARY HALL,
Situate in the Parish of
St. Mary,
has its Name either from that Church, which with this Hall, came to belong to
Oriel
College, by a Grant of King
Edward
II.
Anno
1325, or from
Oriel
College, heretofore called
St. Mary Hall.
It consists of one Quadrangle, not very regular. Dr.
John Hudson,
Principal, built here handsome Lodgings at his own Expence.
4. NEW-INN HALL
Is situate in the North-west Part of the Town. It was called
Trilleck-hall,
from Two Brothers Proprietors of it, of that Name; one Bishop of
Hereford,
and the other Bishop of
Rochester.
Afterwards the Founder of
New College
bought it, and gave it to that College,
Anno
1392, and from that time it was called
New-Inn Hall.
The Building is antient and irregular.
5. ST. MARY MAGDALEN HALL,
Situate near
Magdalen
College, was built by
William Wainfleet,
Bishop of
Winchester, Anno
1480, for a Grammar-school. But it having Room for Academical Students, and some Additions having been made to it, it became an Academical Society. It enjoys Fifteen Exhibitions; Five of 8
l. per Annum,
and Ten of 10
l.
The Front is the most considerable Part of it; but it has a pretty good Library.
What Additions have been made to some of the Colleges, by means of the Wills of Dr.
Ratcliffe
and Dr.
Clarke,
which I have just referred to, will, to avoid Repetition where I am so pressed for Room, be best seen in Abstracts of the said Wills, which may serve as a Supplement to the foregoing Accounts of the Colleges. Dr.
Ratcliff
's is to the following Effect:
He left an Establishment of 600
l. per Ann.
for Two young Physicians to travel, to be enjoyed by them for Ten Years; after which, or in case of Death, others were to succeed them, for ever.
The Remainder of the Estate charged to secure this annual Sum, he left to
University
College,
Oxon,
for purchasing perpetual Advowsons for the Members of the same.
To
St. Bartholomew
's Hospital,
London,
he left 500
l. per Ann.
for ever, towards mending their Diet, as his Will expresses it; and 100
l. per Ann.
more for ever, for buying of Linen.
Five hundred Pounds, to build the Front of
University
College answerable to what was before built, and for building the Master's Lodgings therein, and Chambers for his Two travelling Fellows.
Forty thousand Pounds for building a Library in
Oxon,
and purchasing the Houses between
St. Mary
's and the Schools in
Cat-street,
for that Purpose; and when built, he bequeathed 150
l. per Annum
to the Library-keeper, and 100
l.
a Year for ever to buy Books for the same.
He charg'd all his real and personal Estate with the Payment of these great Benefactions, and other large Family Bequests; and willed that the Residue should be applied to such charitable Purposes as his Executors should think best.
He willed that 100
l.
a Year for ever should be applied to keep in Repair the said Library, to commence Payment in Thirty Years after his Death.
All the Livings in his Gift, he willed, should be bestowed on Members of
University
College, and if wanting there, to Fellows of
Lincoln
College.
To his Executors, who were
William Bromley,
Esq
Sir
George Beaumont,
Bart.
Thomas Sclater,
Esq
and
Anthony Keck,
Esq
all since deceased, he left 500
l.
each; and a Power of nominating Two Successors to each of them, as they respectively died.
His Will bears Date
Sept.
the 13th 1714; and the Doctor died
Nov.
1. the same Year.
We shall now add, That every thing being done in pursuance of this Will, which the Time since his Death would permit, it may be easily conceived what a glorious Addition the Buildings finished, and finishing by its Direction, must be to this renowned University.
George Clarke,
LL. D. was several Years Representative in Parliament for the University of
Oxford.
and died
October
12. 1736. Of whose Will take the following Abstract:
He bequeathed to the Library-keeper of
Worcester
College, 10
l. per Ann.
and to a young Gownsman, to attend to reach down Books, 5
l.
Four thousand Pounds for Building Nine Chambers at
Worcester
College, and finishing the Chapel and Hall there; Six of these Chambers to be for Six additional Fellows of that College, who are to have 45
l.
each
per Ann.
the other Three to be for so many additional Scholars, at 25
l. per Ann.
each.
Fifty Pounds
per Ann.
to be laid out in Books for the said College Library.
He orders his Trustees, as soon as they can, to purchase the Ground adjoining to
Worcester
College, for inlarging its Scite and Conveniencies.
To the University he gives the Whole-length Pictures of King
William
and Queen
Mary,
to be hung in the Gallery over the Schools; the Half-lengths of Lord Chancellor
Clarendon,
and his Son the Earl of
Rochester,
to be hung in the Delegates Room at the
Clarendon Printing-house
; and an Original, the only one, of Dr.
John Radcliffe,
to be hung in his Library, when built.
Also he bequeaths to the University all his Medals, and several other valuable Curiosities, which he wills may be kept in the
Musaeum Ashmoleanum.
To the
Worcester
College Library, all his printed Books, and Prints, and such Manuscripts as his Trustees shall think fit: also to the same, all the Designs of
Inigo Jones
for
Whitehall,
which he takes notice are very valuable.
To the same College he gives a large two-ear'd Silver Cup, double-gilt, weighing 112 Ounces
To the Warden and College of
All-Souls,
whereof he was Fellow, all the Furniture in his College-chamber, and all that in the Lodgings he had built there, with his Prints therein, and Pictures over the Doors and Chimney-pieces, the Ceiling-piece over the Stair-case,
Hercules
in the Garden, and St.
Luke
in two Columns, to be used in the Place they now are by the said Warden, and his Successors.
To the Use of the Fellows of the said College, the Rooms under the great Dining-room, the great Dining-room itself, and the great Bed-chamber, and Garrets over them.
To
All-Souls
College he bequeaths also his 4th Turn of presenting to the Vicarage of
Yarnton,
for the Benefit of such of its Chaplains as have but a slender Provision; and 20
l.
among the College-servants.
An Augmentation, as it shall rise out of one of his Estates, to the Allowance of the Two Chaplains of
All-Souls,
whom he hopes the Society will appoint their Librarians.
To
Queen
's College he gives the Heads of Six Queens of
England.
You will refer, Sir, to the Accounts I have already given of the Colleges, and to the above Abstracts of Dr.
Radcliff
's, and Dr.
Clarke
's Wills, and you will have a View of the State of these Colleges, even when the Works are finished as directed by those Gentlemen, and which will hold for Years to come without material Alteration, except in case of new Benefactions.
I shall now give a Summary of what a Traveller may observe further in
Oxford, en passant
; and refer the more curious Inquirer to the Histories of the Place, for a more ample and particular Account, than I have room to give.
Besides these Colleges and Halls, there are some publick Buildings, which make a most glorious Appearance: The first and greatest of all is the
Theatre,
a Building not to be equall'd by any thing of its Kind and Bigness in the World. Sir
Christopher Wren
was the Director of the Work. Archbishop
Sheldon
paid for it, and gave it to the University: there is a world of Decoration in the Front of it, and more beautiful Additions, by way of Ornament; and the inside Roof, finely painted and decorated, is never enough to be admired.
The
Bodleian
Library is an Ornament in itself worthy of this famous University. I have not Room for its History at large, but shall briefly observe, that the first publick Library in
Oxford
was erected in
Durham
College, now
Trinity,
by
Richard
Bishop of
Durham,
Lord Treasurer to
Edward
III. it was afterward joined to another, founded by
Cobham
Bishop of
Winchester,
and both inlarged by the Bounty of
Humphry
Duke of
Gloucester,
Founder of the Divinity Schools. But these Libraries being lost, and the Books embezzled, and the Place where they were deposited, quite ruinous, Sir
Thomas Bodley,
a wealthy and learned Knight, having, at a vast Expence, collected Books and Manuscripts from all Parts of the World, placed them in the old Library-room, built by the good Duke
Humphry.
This great Work was brought to an Head the 8th of
Nov.
1602, and has continued increasing by the Benefactions of great and learned Men to this Day; such as Archbishop
Laud,
the Earl of
Pembroke, Oliver Cromwell, Selden, Digby,
and other great Names.
Over it is a spacious Gallery, adorned with Pictures of Founders, Benefactors,
&c.
and with the antique Marbles, which were the learned Part of the inexhaustible Collection of the Earl of
Arundel,
which have been illustrated with the accurate Comments of
Selden
and
Prideaux.
Here are some of the most valuable
Greek
Monuments now in the World. Over the Porch, upon an handsome Pedestal of black Marble, stands the Brass Effigies of the Earl of
Pembroke,
their noble and generous Chancellor, given by the late Earl, moulded by
Rubens.
Also a very large Collection of
Greek, Roman, British, Saxon, English,
and other Coins, presented by Sir
T. Roe,
and other Hands. And that indefatigable and learned Collector of Books, and valuable Manuscripts, Dr.
Tanner,
Bishop of St.
Asaph,
who died
December
12. 1735, bequeathed the most curious Part of his fine Collection to this noble Library.
In the Year 1740, by the Death of Mrs.
Crew,
Relict of
George Crew,
Esq
an Estate of 80
l. per Annum
is fallen to the Head Librarian's Post, which before was very inconsiderable, tho' it required a constant Residence. This was a Legacy of the late Right Reverend and Right Honourable
Nathanael Crew,
Lord Bishop of
Durham,
who was such a good Benefactor to
Lincoln
College as we have mentioned.
Other curious Things in
Oxford
are, the Schools, (which are now beautifully repaired, and the Names and Arms of old Benefactors renewed and repainted) the Museum, the Chamber of Rarities, the Collection of Coins, Medals, Pictures, and antient Inscriptions, the Printing-house, the Physick-garden, the University and other Churches, the Convocation-house,
&c.
all worthy of a particular Description, had I room to give it.
The University is govern'd by a Chancellor, chosen by Scrutiny or Collection of Votes; he is generally one of the first Noblemen of the Kingdom.
By a High-steward, chosen by the Chancellor.
By a Vice-chancellor, who must be one of the Heads of a College, recommended to the University by the Chancellor.
By Two Proctors, chosen annually by Turn out of the Colleges.
The other Officers are the publick Orator, and the Keeper of the Archives, Beadles, Virger,
&c.
But tho' I have said so much of the University, I must not quite forget the City. Let me then observe, That before
Baliol
College they shew the Stone in the Street, which marks the Place of the Martyrdom of Archbishop
Cranmer
and Bishop
Ridley,
then upon the Banks of the Ditch, without the City Walls, which went along where the Theatre now stands.
Beyond the River, stood
Oseny
Abbey, founded 1129. Upon the Bridge is a Tower, call
d
Frier
Bacon
's Study,
from that famous and learned Monk.
Over another Bridge, on the
Isis,
we went to see
Ruleigh
Abbey, where some Ruins still remain, turn'd to a common Brewhouse.
Of the Castle remains a square high Tower, by the River-side, and a lofty Mount, or Keep, walled at Top, with a Stair-case going downward.
The
White-friers
was a Royal Palace, and near a Green called
Beaumonds,
they shew'd us the Bottom of a Tower upon the Spot where the valiant
Richard
I. was born.
Without the Town, on all Hands, are to be seen the Fortifications erected in the late Civil Wars.
As to the City, tho' the Colleges make up Two-thirds of it, and are still elbowing for more Room, yet 'tis large and regular, the Streets are spacious, clean, and strait; the Place pleasant and healthful, the Inhabitants genteel and courteous; the Churches many and elegant, especially
Allhallows
; and taking it altogether, and including the Grandeur and Endowment of the Colleges, their Chapels, Halls, Libraries, Quadrangles, Piazza's, Gardens, Walks, Groves,
&c.
it must be consider'd as the first University in the World, as I have before mention'd.
On the Left-hand, on the other Side the River, the last Remains of
Godstow
Nunnery are situated among the sweet Meadows. Here fair
Rosamond
had a remarkably fine Tomb; but before the Dissolution, scarce could her Ashes rest,
whose Beauty was thought guilty,
as one says,
even after Death.
I cannot leave
Oxford
without making one Observation, with regard to those who insist, that it was to the Piety of the Popish Times which we owe the first Institution of the University itself, the Foundation and Endowment of the particular Colleges, and the Encouragement arising to Learning from thence: all which I readily grant; but would have them remember too, that tho' those Foundations stood, as they tell us, 800 Years, and that the Reformation, as they say, is not above 200 Years standing, yet Learning has more increased, and the Universities flourish'd more; more great Scholars been produced, greater Libraries been raised, and more fine Buildings been erected, in these 200 Years, than in the 800 Years of Popery; and I might add, as many great Benefactions have been given, notwithstanding this very momentous Difference, that the Protestants Gifts are merely Acts of Charity to the World, and Acts of Bounty, in Reverence to Learning, and learned Men, without the grand Incitement of the State of their own Souls, and those of their Fathers, which were to be pray'd out of Purgatory, and get a ready Admission into Heaven.
Oxford
was for many Years advantaged by the Neighbourhood of the Royal Court, while several Kings of
England,
being taken with the fine Situation of
Woodstock,
made their Palace there the Place of their Summer Retreat.
Dr.
Plott
allows it to have been a Royal House ever since King
Alfred
; and a Manuscript in the
Cotton
Library confirms it; and that King
Henry
I. was not the Founder of it, but only rebuilt it. And as for
Henry
II. who kept his fair
Rosamond
in it, he made only some Additions to it, for the Entertainment and Security of his beautiful Mistress. Notwithstanding which, the Queen, having got Access to her in the King's Absence, as Tradition informs us, dispatch'd her by Poison.
When I was first at
Woodstock
some Years ago, I saw part of the old Palace, and the famous Labyrinth of fair
Rosamond
; but now these are destroy'd. Her
Bathing-place
or
Well,
as it is called, is left; a quadrangular Receptacle of pure Water, immediately flowing from a little Spring under the Hill, overshadow'd with Trees; near which are some Ruins of Walls and Arches. King
Ethelred
called a Parliament here. It has been a Royal Seat, as I have said, from most antient Times.
Henry
I. inclosed the Park. Across this Valley was a remarkably fine Echo, that would repeat a whole Hexameter, but impair'd by the Removal of these Buildings. A stately Bridge, or Rialto rather, now leads along the grand Approach to the present Castle: one Arch is above 190 Feet Diameter; a Cascade of Water falls from a Lake down some stone Steps into the Canal that runs under it.
The new Palace of
Blenheim
is a vast and magnificent Pile of Building; a Royal Gift to the high Merit of the invincible Duke of
Marlborough.
The lofty Hall is painted by Sir
James Thornhill,
the Ceiling by
la Guerre.
The Rooms are finely inrich'd with Marble Chimney-pieces and Furniture, but more by the incomparable Paintings and Hangings, which latter represent the principal Glories of the Duke's Life. Among the Pictures are many of
Rubens
's best and largest Pieces; that celebrated one of himself, his Wife and Child, among others:
Vandyke
's King
Charles
I. upon a Dun Horse, of great Value: and the famous Loves of the Gods, by
Titian
; a Present from the King of
Sardinia.
The Gallery is worthy Admiration, lined with Marble Pilasters, and whole Pillars of one Piece, supporting a most costly and curious Entablature, excellent for Matter and Workmanship, the Window-frames of the same, and a Basement of black Marble quite round. Before it, is stretched out a most agreeable Prospect of the fine Woods beyond the great Valleys. What is of the most elegant Taste in the whole House, is of the Duchess's own Designing. The Chapel is equal to the rest. The Garden is a very large Plot of Ground taken out of the Park, and may still be said to be a Part of it, well-contriv'd by sinking the outer Wall into a Foss, to give a View quite round, and take off the odious Appearance of Confinement and Limitation to the Eye. It is within well adorn'd with Walks, Greens, Espaliers, and Vista's, to divers remarkable Objects, that offer themselves in the circumjacent Country. Over the Pediment of this Front of the House is a curious Marble Busto of
Lewis
XIV. bigger than the Life, taken from the Gate of the Citadel of
Tournay.
The Orangery is a pretty Room. Near the Gate of the Palace is the House where our famous
Chaucer
was born. At the Entrance into the Castle from the Town, her Grace has erected a noble triumphal Arch, to the Memory of the Duke; and has set up a vast Obelisk in the principal Avenue of the Park, whereon is inscribed the best Account of the Duke's Actions and Character, that ever was penn'd in the same Compass; and if done by the masterly Hand of that extraordinary Genius, to whom I have heard it attributed, must be a double Triumph to the Memory of the Duke, since his Merits extorted so noble a Testimony from a Person who was once engaged in Measures quite opposite to those, which derived upon his Grace so exalted a Reputation, and who was thought to be at that Time one of his principal Adversaries.
The Inscription does so much Honour to the Memory of the Duke, and at the same time to the
British
Nation, that I cannot deny to myself the Pleasure of inserting it here, as follows:
The Castle of
Blenheim
was founded by Queen
ANNE,
In the Fourth Year of her Reign, In the Year of the Christian Aera 1705; A Monument design'd to perpetuate the Memory of the Signal Victory Obtained over the
French
and
Bavarians,
Near the Village of
Blenheim,
On the Banks of the
Danube,
By JOHN Duke of MARLBOROUGH; The Hero not only of this Nation, but of this Age: Whose Glory was equal in the Council and in the Field; Who by Wisdom, Justice, Candour, and Address, Reconciled various, and even opposite Interests; Acquired an Influence Which no Rank, no Authority can give, Nor any Force but that of superior Virtue; Became the fixed important Centre, Which united, in one common Cause, The principal States of
Europe
; Who by military Knowlege, and irresistible Valour, In a long Series of uninterrupted Triumphs, Broke the Power of
France,
When raised the highest, when exerted the most; Rescued the Empire from Desolation; Asserted and confirmed the Liberties of
Europe.
Philip,
a Grandson of the House of
France,
united to the Interests, directed by the Policy, supported by the Arms of that Crown, was placed on the Throne of
Spain.
King WILLIAM III. beheld this formidable Union, of Two great, and once rival Monarchies. At the End of a Life spent in defending the Liberties of
Europe,
he saw them in their greatest Danger. He provided for their Security in the most effectual Manner. He took the Duke of MARLBOROUGH into his Service.
Embassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary To the
States General
of the
United Provinces,
The Duke contracted several Alliance before the Death of King WILLIAM. He confirmed and improved these. He contracted others, after the Accession of Queen ANNE; and reunited the Confederacy, which had been dissolved at the End of a former War, in a stricter and firmer League.
Captain-General and Commander in Chief Of the Forces of GREAT BRITAIN,
The Duke led to the Field the Army of the Allies. He took with surprising Rapidity
Venlo, Ruremonde, Stevenswaert
and
Liege.
He extended and secured the Frontiers of the
Dutch.
The Enemies, whom he found insulting at the Gates of
Nimeghen,
were driven to seek for Shelter behind their Lines. He forced
Bonne, Huy, Limburgh,
in another Campaign. He opened the Communication of the
Rhine,
as well as the
Maes.
He added all the Country between these Rivers to his former Conquests. The Army of
France,
favoured by the Defection of the Elector of
Bavaria,
had penetrated into the Heart of the
Empire.
This mighty Body lay exposed to immediate Ruin. In that memorable Crisis, the Duke of MARLBOROUGH led his Troops with unexampled Celerity, Secrecy, Order, from the
Ocean
to the
Danube.
He saw: He attacked: Nor stopped, but to conquer the Enemy. He forced the
Bavarians,
sustained by the
French,
in their strong Intrenchments at
Schellenberg.
He passed the
Danube.
A second Royal Army, composed of the best Troops of
France,
was sent to reinforce the first. That of the Confederates was divided. With one Part of it the Siege of
Ingolstadt
was carried on. With the other the Duke gave Battle to the united Strength of
France
and
Bavaria.
On the 2d Day of
August
1704, he gained a more glorious Victory than the Histories of any Age can boast. The Heaps of Slain were dreadful Proofs of his Valour. A Marshal of
France,
whole Legions of
French,
his Prisoners, proclaimed his Mercy.
Bavaria
was subdued,
Ratisbon, Augsbourg, Ulm, Meminghen,
all the Usurpations of the Enemy, were recovered. The Liberty of the
Diet,
the Peace of the
Empire,
were restored. From the
Danube,
the Duke turned his victorious Arms towards the
Rhine,
and the
Moselle. Landau, Treves, Traerbach,
were taken. In the Course of one Campaign the very Nature of the War was changed. The Invaders of other States were reduced to defend their own. The Frontier of
France
was exposed in its weakest Part to the Efforts of the Allies.
That he might improve this Advantage, that he might push the Sum of Things to a speedy Decision, the Duke of MARLBOROUGH led his Troops early in the following Year once more to the
Moselle.
They, whom he had saved a few Months before, neglected to second him now. They, who might have been his Companions in Conquest, refused to join him. When he saw the generous Designs he had formed, frustrated by private Interest, by Pique, by Jealousy, he returned with Speed to the
Maes.
He returned; and Fortune and Victory returned with him.
Liege
was relieved;
Huy
retaken. The
French,
who had pressed the Army of the
States-General
with superior Numbers, retired behind Intrenchments, which they deemed impregnable. The Duke forced these Intrenchments, with inconsiderable Loss, on the 7th Day of
July
1705, He defeated a great Part of the Army which defended them. The rest escaped by a precipitate Retreat. If Advantages proportionable to this Success were not immediately obtained, let the Failure be ascribed to that Misfortune which attends most Confederacies; a Division of Opinions, where one alone should judge; a Division of Power, where one alone should command. The Disappointment itself did Honour to the Duke. It became the Wonder of Mankind how he could do so much under those Restraints, which had hindred him from doing more.
Powers more absolute were given him afterwards. The Increase of his Powers multiplied his Victories. At the opening of the next Campaign, when all his Army was not yet assembled; when it was hardly known, that he had taken the Field; the Noise of his Triumphs was heard over
Europe.
On the 12th of
May
1706, he attacked the
French
at
Ramillies.
In the Space of Two Hours the whole Army was put to Flight. The Vigour and Conduct, with which he improved this Success, were equal to those, wherewith he gained it.
Louvain, Brussels, Malines, Liere, Ghent, Oudenard, Antwerp, Damme, Bruges, Courtray,
surrendered.
Ostend, Menin, Dendermond
and
Aeth,
were taken.
Brabant
and
Flanders
were recovered. Places which had resisted the greatest Generals for Months, for Years; Provinces disputed for Ages; were the Conquests of a Summer. Nor was the Duke content to triumph alone. Solicitous for the general Interest, his Care extended to the remotest Scenes of the War. He chose to lessen his own Army, that he might enable the Leaders of other Armies to conquer. To this it must be ascribed that
Turin
was relieved; the Duke of
Savoy
reinstated; the
French
driven with Confusion out of
Italy.
These Victories gave the Confederates an Opportunity of carrying on the War on every Side into the Dominions of
France.
But she continu'd to enjoy a kind of peaceful Neutrality in
Germany.
From
Italy
she was once alarm'd, and had no more to fear. The intire Reduction of his Power, whose Ambition had caused, whose Strength supported the War, seemed reserved for him alone, who had so triumphantly begun the glorious Work.
The Barrier of
France,
on the Side of the
Low-Countries,
had been forming for more than half a Century. What Art, Power, Expence could do, had been done to render it impenetrable. Yet here she was most exposed; for here the Duke of MARLBOROUGH threatened to attack her.
To cover what they had gained by Surprize, or had been yielded to them by Treachery, the
French
marched to the Banks of the
Schelde.
At their Head were the Princes of the Blood, and their most fortunate General the Duke of
Vendosme.
Thus commanded, thus posted, they hoped to check the Victor in his Course. Vain were their Hopes. The Duke of MARLBOROUGH passed the River in their Sight. He defeated their whole Army. The Approach of Night concealed, the Proximity of
Ghent
favoured their Flight. They neglected nothing to repair their Loss, to defend their Frontier. New Generals, new Armies appeared in the
Netherlands.
All contributed to inhance the Glory, none were able to retard the Progress, of the confederate Army.
Lisle,
the Bulwark of this Barrier, was besieged. A numerous Garison, and a Marshal of
France,
defended the Place. Prince EUGENE of
Savoy
commanded, the Duke of MARLBOROUGH covered and sustained the Siege. The Rivers were seized, and the Communication with
Holland
interrupted. The Duke opened new Communications with great Labour, and much greater Art. Through Countries over-run by the Enemy, the necessary Convoys arriv'd in Safety. One alone was attacked. The Troops which attacked it were beat. The Defence of
Lisle
was animated by Assurances of Relief.
The
French
assembled all their Force. They marched towards the Town. The Duke of MARLBOROUGH offered them Battle, without suspending the Siege. They abandoned the Enterprize. They came to save the Town. They were Spectators of its Fall.
From this Conquest the Duke hastened to others. The Posts taken by the Enemy on the
Schelde
were surprised. That River was passed the second time, and notwithstanding the great Preparations made to prevent it, without Opposition.
Brussels,
besieged by the Elector of
Bavaria,
was relieved.
Ghent
surrendered to the Duke in the Middle of a Winter remarkably severe. An Army, little inferior to his own, marched out of the Place.
As soon as the Season of the Year permitted him to open another Campaign, the Duke besieged and took
Tournay.
He invested
Mons.
Near this City, the
French
Army, covered by thick Woods, defended by noble Intrenchments, waited to molest, nor presumed to offer Battle. Even this was not attempted by them with Impunity. On the last Day of
August
1709, the Duke attacked them in their Camp. All was employed; nothing availed against the Resolution of such a General, against the Fury of such Troops. The Battle was bloody. The Event decisive. The Woods were pierced. The Fortifications trampled down. The Enemy fled. The Town was taken.
Doway, Bethune, Aire, St. Venant, Bouchain,
underwent the same Fate in Two succeeding Years. Their vigorous Resistance could not save them. The Army of
France
durst not attempt to relieve them. It seemed preserved to defend the Capital of the Monarchy.
The Prospect of this extreme Distress was neither distant nor dubious. The
French
acknowleged their Conqueror, and sued for Peace.
These are the Actions of the late Duke of MARLBOROUGH, Performed in the Compass of a few Years, Sufficient to adorn the Annals of Ages. The Admiration of other Nations Will be conveyed to latest Posterity, In the Histories even of the Enemies of BRITAIN. The Sense which the
British
Nation had Of his transcendent Merit, Was expressed In the most solemn, most effectual, most durable manner. The Acts of Parliament
Several Recitals of Clauses in Acts of Parliament made to do Honour to this immortal Commander, are engraven on the same superb Pillar.
inscribed on this Pillar Shall stand As long as the
British
Name and Language last, Illustrious Monuments Of MARLBOROUGH's Glory, And Of BRITAIN's Gratitude.
At
Woodstock
they make the fine Steel Chains for Watches, and other Things of polish'd Steel.
From
Woodstock
I went North-west to
Chipping-Norton,
which must have been once a Town of great Trade, by the Number of Merchants, as they are called on the Brasses over their Monuments; and besides, the Name
Chipping
denotes as much. There are Marks of a Castle by the Church; and
Roman
Coins are frequently found here. The Church is a good Building, and after a curious Model.
Hence we rode to see
Rowldrich
Stones, a little
Stone-henge,
being a Circle of great Stones standing upright, some of them from Five to Seven Feet high, and probably the
Vestigia
of an old
British
Temple, as that was; and Mr.
Toland
positively asserts, that they were so.
At
Tidmerton
Parish is a large Camp of an orbicular Form, on the Summit of an Hill, which is doubly intrenched, and able to contain a great Army.
When I was at
Banbury,
I should have mentioned
Bloxham,
which lies North of it; where is a fine Church, the Steeple of an odd, but agreeable Make.
Near
Bloxham,
is also the famous Parish of
Bright-well,
of which it was observed, that there had not been an Alehouse, nor a Dissenter from the Church, nor any Quarrel among the Inhabitants, that rose so high as to a Suit of Law, within the Memory of Man. But they could not say it was so still, especially as to the Alehouse Part; tho' very much is still preserved as to the Unity and good Neighbourhood of the Parishioners, and their Conformity to the Church.
Being now on the Side of
Warwickshire,
as is said before, I still went South, and passing by the
Four Shire Stones,
we saw where the Counties of
Oxford, Warwick,
and
Gloucester,
join all in a Point; one Stone standing in each County, and the fourth touching all Three.
Entering
Gloucestershire
here, Westward, we came, after a Mile's Ride, to
Moretonhenmarsh,
a small Town which had formerly a Market, but now discontinued: it lies on the great Road to
Worcester.
And the famous
Roman
Fosseway, which coming out of
Warwickshire,
enters this County at
Lemington,
which lies North-east of this Town, strikes thro' it, and also thro'
Stow
and
North-Leach,
down to
Cirencester,
Southward.
Hence we come to the famous
Cotswold-downs,
so eminent for the best of Sheep, and finest Wool in
England:
Fame tells us, that some of these Sheep were sent by King
Richard
I. into
Spain,
and that from hence the Breed of their Sheep was raised, which now produce so fine a Wool, that we are obliged to fetch it from thence at a great Price, for making our finest Broad Cloaths.
Upon these Downs we had a clear View of the afore-mentioned famous
Fosse,
which evidently crosses all the Middle Part of
England,
and is to be seen and known (tho' in no Place plainer than here) quite from the
Bath
to
Warwick,
and thence to
Leicester,
to
Newark,
to
Lincoln,
and on to
Barton,
upon the Bank of
Humber.
We observed also how several cross Roads as antient as the
Fosse,
join'd it, or branched out of it; some of which the People have by antient Usage, tho' corruptly, called also
Fosses:
For Example,
The
Ackmanstreet,
which is an antient
Saxon
Road, leading from
Buckinghamshire
thro'
Oxfordshire,
to the
Fosse,
and so to the
Bath
; this joins the
Fosse
between
Burford
and
Cirencester.
Also
Grimes-dyke,
from
Oxfordshire, Wattle-bank,
or
Aves-ditch,
from the same, and the
Would-way,
call'd also the
Fosse,
crossing from
Gloucester
to
Cirencester.
Many Seats of the Nobility are to be found in these Parts;
Cornbury,
Lord
Clarendon
's;
Ditchley,
Lord
Litchfield
's;
Hathorp,
the late Duke of
Shrewsbury
's, new built of Stone very beautifully.
The
Lech,
the
Coln,
the
Churn,
and the
Isis,
all rise in the
Cotswould
Hills, and joining together, make a full Stream at
Lechlade
near this Place, and become one River there, and are called the
Thames,
which begins there to be navigable; and Barges may be seen at the Quay, taking in Goods for
London:
which makes
Lechlade
very populous. Of which Town more by-and-by.
Stow on the Would,
which is the next Town we came to, is but indifferent to look at; but is, or rather has been, remarkable for its Two annual Fairs, famous for Hops, Cheese, and Sheep, of which, 'tis said, that above 20,000 are generally sold at one Fair, and that the Toll of these Fairs and the Markets, amount to 80
l.
a Year. The Parish is very large, being 12 Miles in Compass, and consists of Meadow, Arable, and Pasture. Here is a good large Rectory Church standing on a Hill, with a high Tower on the South-side of it, which is seen a great Distance off. Here is also an Hospital, Alms-house, and Free-school, all well endow'd; besides other Charities.
Northleche
is also a Market-town, governed by a Bailiff and Two Constables, and is named from the River
Leche,
which runs through it. Here is a Vicarage Church, large and spacious, having Ayles on each Side, and handsome Windows, with a large Tower. Here is a Grammar-school, free for all the Boys of the Town, endow'd with 80
l.
a Year. And 'tis said, that the Founder, falling afterwards into Misfortunes, solicited for the Master's Place of his own School, but could not obtain it from the Trustees.
Here we quitted the
Roman Fosse,
and went East-ward to
Burford
in
Oxfordshire.
King
Henry
II. gave this Town a Charter,
Guildam & omnes consuetudines, quas habent liberi Burgenses de Oxenford
; but they are almost all now lost: however it retains some Marks of a Corporation still, being governed by Two Bailiffs, and other inferior Officers. It is famous for Saddles, and, lying near the Downs, draws great Profit from the Horse-races, which are frequent here. At this Place was convened a Synod in 685, against the Error of the
British
Churches in the Observance of
Easter.
At
Battle-edge,
near this Town,
Cuthred,
King of the
West Saxons,
beat
Ethelbald,
King of the
Mercians,
in a pitch'd Battle, and threw off his Yoke. The Inhabitants celebrate yearly, on
Midsummer-eve,
a kind of Festival, which, they say, commenced in Honour of this Battle. It was here the learned Dr.
Heylin
(descended originally from an antient Family in
Wales
) was born; and the famous Speaker
Lenthal
had a Seat, and died here.
Being so near
Witney,
we could not forbear taking a Ride to see a Town so famous for the Manufactures of Blanketing and Rugs, which thrive here in a most extraordinary manner. Here are at work 150 Looms continually, for which above 3000 People, from Eight Years old and upward, are daily imploy'd in Carding, Spinning,
&c.
and consume above 100 Packs of Wool weekly. The Blankets are usually 10 or 12 Quarters wide, and very white, which some attribute to the abstersive nitrous Waters of the River
Windrush,
wherewith they are scoured; but others believe it is owing to a peculiar way of loose Spinning they use here; and others again are of Opinion, that it proceeds from both. But however that be, this Town has engrossed the whole Trade in that Commodity, and increases daily in its Reputation. They likewise make here the
Duffield
Stuffs, a Yard and three Quarters wide, which are carried to
New England
and
Virginia,
and now much worn even here in Winter. Here are likewise a great many Fellmongers, who having dressed and stained their Sheep-skins, make them into Jackets and Breeches, and sell them at
Bampton
; from whence they are dispersed all over the neighbouring Counties. Here is a good Free-school, and a fine Library belonging to it.
Witney
is an antient Town, and of good Repute before the Conquest; but it is a long, straggling, uncouth Place, tho' full of Inhabitants. 'Twas one of the Manors which
Alwinus,
Bishop of
Winchester
gave to the Church of
St. Swithin
's there, on Queen
Emma
's happily passing over the
Fire Ordeal.
At
Astal,
a Village in the Road between
Burford
and
Witney,
is a Barrow which stands very high, and is supposed to be the Sepulchre of some Person of great Note.
Southward lies
Bampton,
on the Borders of the County next
Berkshire.
It is an antient Market-town, likewise in Repute before the Conquest: it is noted for the greatest Market for Fellmonger-wares in
England,
which come from
Witney,
and for nothing else that I know of, saving that the People talk'd much of a Family of the
Woods
(that dwelt here and at
Brisenorton
) who hear always a great Knocking before any of them die.
Turning here West, we enter'd
Gloucestershire
again, and came to
Lechlade,
which lies on the great Road to
Gloucester.
It is probable, that it was antiently a
Roman
Town upon the
Thames
; for a very plain
Roman
Road runs from hence to
Cirencester.
Some say, that it was once a famous University for teaching
Latin,
as
Creeklade
was for
Greek.
The antient Building lately discovered by digging in a Meadow near
Lechlade,
deserves a particular Mention: it is 50 Feet long, 40 broad, and Four high; supported with 100 Brick Pillars, curiously inlaid with Stones of divers Colours, of Tesseraick Work; and supposed to be a
Roman
Bath.
Not far from it are the Two Towns called
Sarney
; so named, in
British,
from the
Roman
Causways; for
Sarn,
in that antient Language, and at present, imports a paved Way. The River
Lech
runs thro' it, and discharges itself into the
Thames.
A great Number of Barges go from hence to
London.
From
Lechlade
we proceeded West to
Fairford,
a small Market-town, thro' which runs the River
Coln,
which has Two large Bridges over it. A great many Medals and Urns have been often dug up here, and there are several Barrows in the adjoining Fields, (which seem to have been a Scene of warlike Actions) the Monuments of the Slain interred here.
A great many Charities are still subsisting in this Town; but what it is most noted for is its Church, and the admirable Painting in its Windows: of which take the following Description and History.
John Tame,
a Merchant of
London,
purchased this Manor of King
Henry
VII. (to whom it descended from the
Beauchamps,
Earls of
Warwick
) and haveing taken a Prize-ship bound for
Rome,
wherein he found a great Quantity of painted Glass, he brought both the Glass and the Workmen into
England.
The Glass was such a Curiosity, that Mr.
Tame
built this Church at
Fairford
(dedicating it to the Virgin
Mary
); which is in Length 125 Feet, and 55 in Breadth; and has Three Chancels, a good Vestry, and a noble Tower, arising from the Midst of it, adorned with Pinacles; and the Windows of the Church, 28 in Number, he caused to be glazed with this invaluable Prize, which remains intire to this Day, the Admiration of all that see it.
Mrs.
Farmer
(a Daughter of the Lord
Lemster
) gave 200
l.
to be laid out in mending and wiring the Windows: this has preserved them from Accidents. And in the grand Rebellion, the Impropriator Mr.
Oldworth,
and others, (to their great Praise be it remembred) took down the Glass, and secured it in some secret Place, thereby preserving it from Fanatick Rage. The Painting was the Design of
Albert Durer,
a famous
Italian
Master; and the Colouring in the Drapery, and some of the Figures, is so well perform'd, that
Vandyke
affirmed, the Pencil could not exceed it.
The Subject is all Scripture History,
viz.
The Serpent tempting
Eve
; God appearing in the burning Bush to
Moses,
when a Shepherd; the Angel conducting
Joshua
to War;
Gideon
's Fleece; the Queen of
Sheba
's Visit to
Solomon
; King
David
judging the
Amalekite
Regicide;
Samson
slaying the
Philistines,
killing the Lion, and his being betray'd by
Dalilah
;
Solomon
's Judgment between the Two Harlots; and the Figures of the Twelve Major Prophets.
But the greatest Part is taken up with Stories of the
New Testament:
The Angel appearing to
Zacharias
;
Joseph
and
Mary
contracted; the Visitation of
Mary
by the Angel, and her visiting her Cousin
Elizabeth
; our Saviour born in a Stable; the Shepherds and
Magi
visiting him there;
Herod
waiting the Return of the wise Men; Christ circumcised; the Purification of the Holy Virgin;
Simeon
with our Saviour in his Arms;
Joseph
's Flight into
Egypt
;
Herod
slaying the young Children of
Bethlehem
; the Assumption of the Virgin, and
Joseph
and her seeking Jesus at the Feast: our Saviour's Transfiguration,
Mary
anointing his Head: the Disciples going to embalm him, and the Angel relating to them his Resurrection; Christ's Appearance to
Mary Magdalen
; his riding to
Jerusalem
on an Ass;
Zaccheus,
and the People strewing Palm-branches, and Children crying
Hosanna
; his Praying in the Garden;
Judas
betraying him;
Pilate
judging him, and washing his Hands from the Guilt; the Crucifixion between two Thieves, the Women standing by, and the Soldiers watching him;
Joseph
of
Arimathea
begging the Body, and receiving it; his Burial by
Nicodemus
and others; the Darkness at the Passion, and
Michael
contending with the Devil.
Christ's travelling to
Emmaus,
and his Appearance to the Eleven, and afterwards to
Thomas
; the Disciples going a Fishing, and Christ's appearing to them, with the breaking of the Net, and broiling of the Fish; Christ's Ascension, and the Descent of the Holy Ghost in cloven Tongues.
In the West Window is the Last Judgment curiously designed, and well executed, containing a vast Number of Incidents relating thereto.
In the rest of the Windows are many historical Passages, that happened after Christ's Ascension;
viz.
The Twelve Apostles at large, with the Article of the Creed they are said to be severally the Authors of; the Four Evangelists, as writing the Gospels; Four principal Fathers of the Church,
viz.
St.
Jerom,
St.
Gregory,
St.
Ambrose,
and St.
Austin
; the Worthies that have preserved the Christian Church, in four Upper-windows of the Middle Ayle on the South Side, and the Persecutors thereof in the four opposite Windows.
I have been as brief as possible in this Description, being so much confined in my Limits; but a curious Traveller will be highly delighted with this noble Work. And I shall only add, That
John Tame,
Esq
the pious and worthy Founder, who died in the Year 1500, lies buried on the North Side of the Church, under a raised Marble Monument.
On the
Churn,
one of the Rivers I have just named, stands
Cirencester,
(or
Cicester,
for Brevity) the antient
Corinium
of the
Romans,
and said to be rebuilt by
Cissa,
a Viceroy under one of the
Saxon
Kings, a great and populous City; then inclosed with Walls and a Ditch of vast Compass, which may be traced quite round. The Foundation of the Wall is also very visible in most Places. A good Part of this Circuit is now Pasture, Corn Fields, and Gardens, besides the Scite of the present Town. Antiquities are dug up here every Day; old Foundations, Houses and Streets, and many
Mosaick
Pavements with Rings, Intaglia's, and Coins innumerable, especially in one great Garden called
Lewis Grounds,
which might have been the
Praetorium
or General's Quarters; for
Llys,
in
British,
signifies a Palace. Large Quantities of carved Stones are carried off yearly in Carts, to mend the Highways, besides what have been used in Building. A fine
Mosaick
Pavement was dug up here
Anno
1723, with many Coins. One Mr.
Richard Bishop
lately dug up in his Garden a Vault 16 Feet long, and 12 broad, supported with square Pillars of
Roman
Brick, three Feet and an half high, on which was a strong Floor of Terrace. Near it are now several other Vaults, on which Cherry-trees grow. These might have been the Foundations of a Temple; for in the same Place they found several Stones of the Shafts of Pillars Six Feet long, and large Stone Bases, with Cornices very handsomely moulded, and carved with Modilions and other Ornaments, which are now converted into Swine-troughs, and Pavements before the Door. Capitals of these Pillars were likewise found. A
Mosaick
Pavement near it, and intire, is now the Floor of his Privy.
Half a Mile West of the Town, on the North Side of the
Fosse
Road, at a Place called
Quern,
other Antiquities are to be seen worth an Antiquary's Attention; but I must not take up too much Room in describing them.
Little of the Abbey is now lest, besides Two old and indifferent Gate-houses. The Church is a very handsome Building; the Windows are full of painted Glass; and it has a fine lofty Tower. East of the Town, about a Quarter of a Mile, is
Starbury Mount,
a Barrow, where
Roman
Coins have been dug up. West, behind Lord
Bathurst
's Garden, is
Grismund
's
Mount,
of which several Fables are told.
Cirencester
is still a very good Town, populous and rich, full of Clothiers, and driving a great Trade in Wool, which is brought from the Inland Counties of
Leicester, Northampton,
and
Lincoln,
where the largest Sheep in
England
feed, and where are but few Manufactures. The vast Quantities sold here are almost incredible. The Wool is bought up here, chiefly by the Clothiers of
Wiltshire
and
Gloucestershire,
for the Supply of that great Cloathing-trade, which I have mentioned already: they talk of 5000 Packs in a Year.
The Town is governed by Two High Constables. It has Two weekly Markets; one on
Monday,
for Corn, Cattle, and Provisions; and on
Friday,
for Wool chiefly. It has also Five Fairs, Three for all Sorts of Commodities, and Two for Cloth only. Here is a fine large beautiful Church with Two Ayles, supported by strong Pillars. The Chancel is handsomely decorated. It has Five Chapels adjoining to it, and has a Tower very neat and lofty, with an excellent Ring of Bells in it. The Windows shew some beautiful Remains of exquisite painted Glass. There is a Free-school, and divers Hospitals and Alms-houses in this Parish.
The
Churn
runs from hence down Southward to
Creeklade
in
Wiltshire,
which is said to have been antiently a very noted Place, containing 1300 Houses, and that an University was here founded by the antient
Britons,
for teaching
Greek,
as I have said, as
Lechlade
was for
Latin
; which University was removed, as they pretend, by the
Saxons,
to
Oxon:
but, I doubt, these are Monkish Accounts; for
Creeklade,
which they would have to signify a
Greek
Town, is a Corruption of the
British
Word
Kerigg gwlade,
i. e. a stony Country. The
Churn
and the
Rey
fall, here, into the
Thames.
Here is a good Free-school.
North-west of
Cirencester,
upon a Hill, stands
Stroud,
a little Market-town, noted for Clothing, and particularly for dying excellent Scarlet. The Church is 90 Feet long, and 40 broad. The Chancel is 33 Feet long, and 16 wide. At the West End of the Church rises a high Spire Steeple, and a Tower in the Middle.
North of it stands
Paynswick,
a Market-town, situate in the wholsomest Air in the County, on the River
Stroud,
where the Cloathing-trade is also carried on. The Church is a Vicarage, and very handsome, with Two Chancels, a North Ayle, and a neat Spire.
Lower to the South-west of
Cirencester
stands
Minching Hampton
; so called, because it belonged to the
Minching
Nuns at
Caen
in
Normandy.
Here is a good Rectory Church worth 200
l.
a Year, large, in the Form of a Cross with Ayles on each Side, and a Tower with Battlements rising in the Middle. In the North Ayle are a great many Inscriptions of Benefactions. And in the South Ayle is a Statue lying cross-legg'd, with a Sword and Shield by him, and his Wife lying at his Feet.
Then we came to
Tetbury,
one of the Cloathing Towns I mentioned; a considerable Market-town, situate on a rising Ground, in a healthy Air, but scarce of Water in Summer. 'Tis well-built, has a large Market-house well frequented for Yarn; and there is a lesser Market-house, for Cheese, Bacon, and other Commodities. 'Tis govern'd by a Bailiff, and at the End of the Town is a long Bridge, whereof one half is in
Wiltshire.
The Church is a Vicarage, worth 120
l.
a Year: 'tis a good Building, large and handsome, in which are divers Monuments. Here is a Free-school and an Alms-house. It had formerly a Castle built by
Dunwallo Malmufius,
a
British
Prince. The Town seems to be well furnished with every thing but Water, which is so scarce, that the Inhabitants are obliged to buy it at the Rate sometimes of 18
d.
for a Hogshead. In this Parish rises the River
Avon,
which runs thro'
Bristol,
and afterwards falls into the
Severn.
A little to the North of this Town is a Meadow called
Maudlin
Meadow, because, as I was told, it belongs to
Magdalen
College in
Oxford.
Here the Inhabitants shewed me the Head of a Spring, which flowing from thence runs along a Hedge-trough, and some Tops of the Wood, that grows in the Hedge, rotting, and falling into this Rill of Water, are, by it, turned into Stone. I took up a great many of them, which are generally in the Shape of the Pipes (as they are commonly called) which the Peruke-makers curl their Hair upon, and of a whitish stony Substance. I broke divers of them, and in the middle found generally a Stick of Wood, some as big as a Goose-quill, others larger; some had but a thin stony Crust about them, in others the Stick was no biggar than a large Needle: again, some had no Stick in them, but only a Hole thro' them, like that of a Tobacco Pipe; and in some others, I could perceive no woody Substance, nor Hole at all, but the Whole was a soft Kind of Stone.—Hence I guess, that the Sand which the Water brings down with it, gathers and crusts about those Sticks; and that, in time, the Stick consumes, and the stony or sandy Substance fills up and supplies its Place. And I would hence recommend it as an Inquiry, Whether those other Transmutations of this Kind, that we meet with in the Natural History of this and other Nations, be not brought about in the like manner.
And now I am dipp'd into this Work of Nature, let me digress a little, and take notice of the
Astroites,
or Star-stones, found at
Lassington
in this County, which have that peculiar Quality of Motion when put into Vinegar.—In the Fields, near
Badminton,
are found cylindrical and spherical Stones, almost as big as Cannon Balls. And on the Hills about
Aldely,
are found Stones of the same Kind with those I found about
Watchet
in
Somersetshire,
resembling all Kinds of Shell-fish: these, I must confess, are, of the two, more astonishing, because they are found on the Hills; for if they were, as
Fracastorius
conjectures, Animals ingendered in the Sea, no good Account of their being here found can be given, unless we suppose them brought hither by the general Deluge.—The Water of the River
Stroud,
in this County, is esteemed the best for Dying Scarlets, which draws many Clothiers to settle in that Neighbourhood. And lest I should be thought too tedious, let me but just mention the Diamonds (
Bristol
Stones rather) found near the Banks of the River
Avon.
That soft, easy-to-be-wrought Stone at
Great Banington,
called
Puff-stone,
prodigiously strong and lasting; a great deal af of which hath been used in the Repairs of
Westminster
Abbey.
Wickwar,
a small Market-town, but a very antient Corporation, governed by a Mayor, is the next. The Church is a large Edifice, with Two Chancels. The Tower is at the West End, and is high, adorn'd with Pinacles. Here is a Free-school.
Chipping Sodbury
lies a little farther in the Road, an antient Borough-town, under a Mayor, Aldermen and Burgesses. As it is a great Thorough-fare to
Bristol,
it is full of good Inns. It has several Streets besides Lanes, and a good Market; and a large spacious Church, which, however, is but a Chapel of Ease to
Old Sodbury.
Here is the greatest Cheese-market in
England,
except
Atherstone
in
Warwickshire.
Here we dropp'd the Road, and fell down Southward, directly to
Marshfield,
another of the Cloathing Towns I spoke of. It consists of one Street of old Buildings near a Mile long. It has a Market, and drives also a great Trade in Malt, and is noted for good Cakes. 'Tis governed by a Bailiff. Here is a good Vicarage Church, with several Monuments and Inscriptions in the Ayles, and the Chancel. Here is an Alms-house well endow'd, and a Chapel to it.
We crossed the great Road from
London
to
Bristol
here, as at
Cirencester
we did that from
London
to
Gloucester
; and keeping still the Fosseway, arrived at
Bath.
But here I shall conclude this Letter, and am, Sir,
Yours, &c.
LETTER V. CONTAINING A Description of Part of the Counties of
Somerset, Gloucester, Warwick, Worcester, Hereford,
and
Monmouth.
SIR,
I Closed my last Letter with my Arrival at BATH, in
Somersetshire
; and I shall now proceed with giving you an Account of what is most remarkable in it.
The Antiquity of this City, and of the famous Baths in it, must be allow'd to be very great, even tho' we should doubt of what is insisted on in the Inscription under the Figure of King
Bladud,
placed in the King's Bath, which says, that this Prince (whom Mr.
Camden
calls
Blayden,
or
Bladen Cloyth,
i. e.
Southsayer
) found out the Use of these Baths, 300 Years before our Saviour's Time.
Bath
is a Spot of Ground, which our Countrymen ought to esteem as a particular Favour of Heaven. It lies in a great Valley, surrounded with an Amphitheatrical View of Hills; and its Situation on the West Side of the Island is a considerable Addition to its Delights, as being the less liable to the rude Shocks of Tempests. But the
Romans
were induced prudently to make a Station here by the admirable hot Springs. The Walls are almost intire, and perhaps the Work of the
Romans,
except the upper Part, which seems repaired with the Ruins of
Roman
Buildings; for the Lewis-holes are still left in many of the Stones, and, to the Shame of the Repairers, many
Roman
Inscriptions, some sawn across, to fit the Size of the Place. The Level of the City is risen to the Top of the first Walls, thro' the Negligence of the Magistracy, who, in this, and all other great Towns, connive at the Servants throwing Dirt and Ashes into the Streets. These Walls inclose but a small Compass, of a pentagonal Form. There are four Gates on four Sides, and a Postern on the other. From the South-west Angle have been an additional Wall and Ditch carried out to the River; by which short Work the Approach of an Enemy on two Sides is intercepted, unless they pass the River. The small Compass of the City has made the Inhabitants croud up the Streets to an unseemly and inconvenient Narrowness. It is, however, handsomely built, mostly of new Stone, which is very white and good. The great Additions made, and still making, to the Buildings here, I shall mention by-and-by.
It was of old a Resort for Cripples, and diseased Persons; and we see the Crutches hang up at the several Baths, as the Thank-offerings of those who came hither lame, and went away cured. But now we may say it is a Resort of the Sound, as well as the Sick, and a Place that helps the Indolent and the Gay to commit that worst of Murders, that is to say, to kill
Time.
To such it is indeed a constant Round of Diversion. In the Morning the young Lady is brought in a close Chair, dressed in her Bathing-cloaths, to the
Cross-bath.
There the Musick plays her into the Bath, and the Women who tend her, present her with a little floating Wooden Dish, like a Bason; in which the Lady puts a Handkerchief, and a Nosegay, and of late the Snuff-box is added. She then traverses the Bath, if a Novice, with a Guide; if otherwise, by herself; and having amus'd herself near an Hour, calls for her Chair, and returns to her Lodgings.
The rest of the Diversion is at Mrs.
Hayes
's, formerly
Harrison
's, a stately Room, and Mrs.
Wiltshire
's, who has now the Apartments that were the late Mrs.
Lindsey
's, where not long since was the Bowling-green. And perhaps Mr.
Leake,
who keeps one of the finest Booksellers Shops in
Europe,
has more than a Chance for half an Hour of each Person's Company now-and-then, and to be sure a Subscription, which is but five Shillings the Season, for taking home what Book you please; but Persons of Quality generally subscribe Gold, and I think it is the very best Money laid out in the Place, for those who go for Pleasure or Amusement only. In the Afternoon there is frequently a Play, tho' the Decorations are mean, and indeed the Performances too. In the Evening, People assemble at the great Rooms, and there are Balls twice a Week. 'Tis also the Fashion of the Place, for the Company to go every Day pretty constantly to hear Divine Service at the great Church, and at
St. Mary
's Chapel in
Queen's-square,
where are Prayers twice a Day.
'Tis remarkable that for many Hundreds of Years, the Medicinal Virtues of these Waters have been useful to the diseased People by Batheing only; whereas of late Years they are found to be no less healthful in many Cases taken inwardly; insomuch, that more come to drink than to bathe; nor are the Cures they perform this way, less valuable than the outward Application.
Gaming used to obtain here, as at all publick Places, to a scandalous Degree; but the Act prohibiting that pernicious Practice; has a good deal checked its Progress. This Act passed in the 12th of King
George
II. and suppresses, on the Penalty of 200
l.
and 50
l.
the Adventures, the following Games by Name;
viz.
The
Ace of Hearts, Pharaoh, Basset, Hazard
; also all
Sales, Raffles, Lotteries, Mathematical Machines,
&c.
Sales by Lotteries
are declared void, and what is put up by them forfeited; nor are Convictions to be vacated for want of Form.
But this Act being eluded by new Games set up, a Clause was inserted in the
Horse-racing
Act,
Anno
13
Geo.
II. prohibiting
Passage,
and all other Games with Dice, except what are play'd on the
Backgamon
Tables.
As to the more particular Nature and Virtues of the Waters, I have been favoured, by a very eminent Physician, with the following curious Account of tham, and their Original.
Of
Bath
Waters.
The
Bath
Waters certainly owe their Heat to a Mixture and Fermentation of two different Sources, distilling from the Tops of two different Mountains (
Clarton
and
Landsdown
) meeting in the Valley where the Town stands; for all Hills are Nests of Metals or Minerals, and their Bellies are cavernous and hollow. It is not therefore improbable, that on
Clarton Down
there should lie the sulphurous Matter which must rise by Impregnation from that excellent Stone Quarry, which hardens in the Air, and grows cased with a nitrous Coat by Time, and cold Weather, and is so readily cut out and carved into any the most exquisite Shapes. This the Discovery and Property of the worthy, charitable, and pious
Ralph Allen,
Esq
For all Mineral Waters owe their Virtue to an Impregnation of Rain Water, generated from the Clouds, which are compressed in their Course by Mountains or Eminences, and fall on the respective included Mineral. And every one knows, that a due Mixture of Sulphur, and Filings of Iron, moistened with Water, will produce any Degree of Heat. This Quarry therefore must have a large Quantity of sulphurous or bituminous Matter in its Composition, as will be evident to a Natural Philosopher, from these mentioned Qualities of the Stone. Neither is it improbable, that the ferruginous or iron-tinctured Water takes its Rise from
Lansdown
Quarry, the Stone on it being hard, and on the Top flinty, black, and acrimonious, as Iron Ore is known to be. These Two Mountains, thus tinged by Rain Water falling from the proper Heights, meet in some Caverns in the Valley; and, there fermenting produce that hot, milky, soft, salutiferous Beverage, called
Bath Water,
far beyond any hot mineral Waters for its Delicacy, and supportable, tho' comfortable Heat, to any other such Water hitherto discovered on the habitable Globe, as it possesses that Milkiness, Detergency, and middling Heat so friendly adapted to weaken'd animal Constitutions, which all other hot Waters want in the due Degree; either being too hot, or too cold, to do any great Good in Cases where they are proper. These Waters are beneficial in almost all chronical Distempers, and can hurt in none, except in Hemorrhages, Inflammations, or bad Lungs, unless they be over-dosed in Quantity, or too high and too hot a Regimen be joined with them; for they always procure a great Appetite, and good Spirits, if cautiously managed; but if high Meats, and strong Liquors, be indulged, they will create inflammatory Disorders. However, in weak Stomachs, decayed Appetites, Colicks, low Spirits, in the Intervals of the Fits of the Gout and Stone; in Rheumatisms, Palsies, nervous Disorders; and, in a Word, all those called the Cold Diseases; but most eminently, in all the Disorders of the chyliferous Tube, or the Stomach and Belly not inflamed, they are more kindly and beneficial than any Medicine known in Nature; and introduce a natural Warmth, and a new internal Heat, into decayed, worn-out, superannuated Constitutions; and if a light Regimen, due Exercise, and good Hours, be joined with them, they would truly work Wonders: but by the Neglect of these, their Efficacy is often lost, and their Credit brought into Question.
Great Additions have been made to the Buildings here within these few Years; particularly by the Duke of
Chandos.
Without the Walls, a stately new Square is erected, with a fine Chapel, and the Middle is inclosed by Rails, and handsomely laid out within.
In the Centre is a lofty Obelisk 70 Feet high from the Foundation, and terminated in a Point. Level with one's Eye is the inclosed Inscription:
IN MEMORY OF HONOUR BESTOW'D, AND IN GRATITUDE FOR BENEFITS CONFERR'D IN THIS CITY, BY HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS
FREDERICK
PRINCE
OF
WALES,
AND HIS ROYAL
CONSORT,
IN THE YEAR M.DCC.XXXVIII. THIS OBELISK IS ERECTED, BY
RICHARD NASH,
Esq
The
Bath-stone,
which I have mention'd before, affords a fine Opportunity to imbellish and give a noble Look to the Buildings here, and at a very cheap Rate; for the Front of the Houses on the North Side of the Square cost no more than 500
l.
tho' it is above 200 Feet in Extent, and inriched with Columns and Pilasters in the
Corinthian Order.
All the Danger is, that they will over-build themselves now they are got into the Humour, and make it less worth while to those who let Lodgings, the principal Business of the Place; but then People of Fortune, settling there, will make amends for it; since no less than 70 or 80 Families are already become constant Inhabitants, and others are daily taking Houses.
The Grove too, near the Abbey-church, now called
Orange-square,
in Compliment to the Prince of
Orange,
when there, has several handsome new-built Houses; and a monumental Stone is erected, with an Inscription in Honour to the Prince of
Orange,
and the Place; his Highness having been obliged to visit
Bath
for his Health, just before he married the Princess Royal of
England,
and received great Benefit by the Waters. This likewise was erected by the famous Mr.
Nash,
to whose good Management and Behaviour
Bath
is greatly indebted; every one submitting with Delight to the Regulations he imposes, with regard to Decorum, and the Oeconomy of the Place.
The Inscription on the Stone above, is as follows:
In Memoriam
Sanitatis
Principi Auriaco
Aquarum Thermalium Potu,
Favente DEO,
Ovante
BRITANNIA,
Feliciter Restitutae.
M.DCC.XXXV.
Thus translated:
In Memory of the happy Restoration of the Health of the Prince of
Orange
by the drinking of the
Bath
Waters, thro' the Favour of GOD, and to the extreme Joy of
Britain,
1735.
General
Wade,
one of the Representatives in Parliament for this City, has given a fine Altar-piece to the great Church there: He has also been at the Charge of having the Picture drawn of every one of his Electors, (the Members of the Corporation) and set up round the Town-hall; and his own too he has suffer'd to be put up over the Entrance, as if he would make good that Pass, and keep them all to
Duty.
At the Upper-end of the Hall are lately set up the Pictures of the Prince and Princess of
Wales,
a Present made by their Royal Highnesses to the Corporation, who likewise before presented it with a fine large wrought Silver Cup and Waiter, gilt.
There is a very great Narrowness of Spirit in most of the Inhabitants at
Bath:
but, indeed, it is the same in all publick Places of Resort. They have but their
Seasons
; and they are so hungry by that time they come about, that they look upon a new Comer, as a Person to be
shared
and
divided
among them: for this Reason you'll always find them with
both
Hands open to
receive
; and not
one
to
communicate,
or do a
generous
Office, without a Benefit in
Possession
or
Reversion.
And when they receive a Favour at your Hands, 'tis with such an Air, as if it were their
Due,
and they quitted Scores with you by their Acceptance of it.
The
Abbey-church
is a venerable Pile, and has many Monuments in it. But the principal Front is almost blasphemously decorated, if it may be call'd decorated, with the Figures of God the Father, and Saints and Angels, the Work of Superstition. This Cathedral, tho' beautiful, is but small; and on the Spot probably stood the
Roman
Temple of
Minerva,
Patroness of the Baths. Before it, was an handsome square Area, but of late Years deformed with Houses.
On the South Side are the justly renowned hot Springs collected into a square Area, called
the King's Bath.
The Corporation erected within these few Years that pretty neat Building before it, call'd
the Pump-room,
for the Company to meet in, who drink the Water, convey'd hither by a Marble Pump from the Bottom of the Springs, where it is near boiling-hot.
This Water is admirably grateful to the Stomach, striking the Roof of the Mouth with a fine sulphurous and steely Taste, like that of the
German Spaw
or
Pyrmont.
Tho' you drink off a large Pint-glass, it is so far from creating a Heaviness or Nausea, that you immediately perceive yourself more alert. At first it operates by Stool, and especially Urine. It is of sovereign Efficacy to strengthen the Bowels, restore their lost Tone, and renew the vital Heat. But I have already mention'd its excellent Qualities.
The King's Bath
is an oblong Square, the Walls full of Niches, perhaps the
Romans
Work. There are Twelve on the North Side; Eight on the East and West; about Four larger Arches on the South. At every Corner are the Steps to descend into it, and a Parapet or Balustrade with a Walk round it.
The Springs were doubtless separated from common Springs by the
Romans,
and fenced in with a durable Wall. There goes a probable Tradition of subterranean Canals of their making, to carry off the other Waters, lest they should mix with these, and destroy the Heat.
It is remarkable, that at the cleansing of the Springs, when they set down a new Pump, they constantly find great Quantities of Hazel-nuts, as in many other Places among subterraneous Timber. These, Dr.
Stukeley
doubts not, are the Remainder of the universal Deluge, which the
Hebrew
Historian tell us was in Autumn, Providence by that means securing the Revival of the Vegetable World.
In the Bath People stand up to the Chin, Men and Women, and stew, mostly in the way of Gallantry.
Many are the Diseases which here find a Remedy, when judiciously applied, as I observ'd above. The Confleunce hither is greater in Summer, than in Winter, tho' the latter, of the two, seems the more preferable Season for medicinal Purposes.
Behind the Southern Wall of
the King's Bath,
is a less Square, named
the Queen's Bath,
with a Tabernacle of Four Pillars in the midst. This is of more temperate Warmth, as borrowing its Water from the other. There are likewise Pumps and Pumping-rooms, for pouring hot Streams on any Part of the Body; which in many Cases is very salutary.
In the South-west Part of the Town are two other Baths, not to be disregarded.
The Hot-bath
is not much inferior in Heat to
the King's Bath
; it is a small Parallelogram, with a Stone Tabernacle of Four Pillars in the midst.
The Cross-bath
near it is triangular, and had a Cross in the middle. Hard by is an Hospital built and endow'd by a Prelate of this See. The Water in these two Places rises near the Level of the Streets.
On the South Side of the Cathedral are some Parts of the Abbey left, and the Gate-house belonging to it.
Within these few Years, by a Contribution, a cold Bath for the Benefit of the Infirm was made at a Spring beyond the Bridge.
Two
Roman
Inscriptions have been set in the Eastern Wall of the Cathedral, fronting the Walks; which, besides the Injuries of the Weather, are exposed to the mischievous Sport of Boys, who throw Stones at them.
The several Baths are very indifferently kept, as their Use so much increases. But a fine Design is now on foot to make convenient Slips, with Dressing-rooms, and Apartments for Pumping on People, without going into the Bath, and for inlarging the Pump-room so as to hold four or five Pumps.
The greatest Decency is observed here by both Sexes; and while Mr.
Nash
lives, it must be always so. There is a very good Conveniency of Chairs, of which there are great Plenty, and very genteel ones, to go to any Part within the Walls, and even to the adjoining Buildings without, for 6
d.
provided the Distance does not exceed 500 Yards; but if it does, the Fare is 1
s.
and for this the Chairmen are obliged to go a Mile. In short, it is a delightful Place enough, when you are in it, but a dreadful one to come at, down high Hills, in some Places like Precipices: but Health or Pleasure obliges People to dispense with this Difficulty.
Bath
being invironed with Hills, there are few pleasant Walks out of the Town, or even Rides, without clambering much to
Landsdown-hill,
or that called
Clarton-down.
It is for this Reason, that very few People care to keep Coaches here. And the Hill up to
Lansdown,
particularly, is so steep, that the late Queen
Anne
was extremely frighted in going up: her Coachman stopping to give the Horses Breath, and the Coach wanting a Dragstaff, it ran back in spite of all the Coachman's Skill; the Horses not being brought to strain the Harness again, or pull together for a good while, and the Coach putting the Guards behind in great Confusion: at last some of the Servants, setting their Heads and Shoulders to the Wheels, stopt them by mere Force.
The General Hospital now near finished in this City, for the Reception of the sick Poor all over the Kingdom, is a very noble Design. The first Stone of it was laid the 6th of
July
1738. It is built where the old Play-house stood, and is a noble Pile of Building, 100 Feet in Front, and 90 Feet deep. It is capable of receiving 150 poor Cripples. Its chief Benefactor is Mr.
Allen,
of whom we shall say more anon, who gave all the Wall-stone, Free-stone ready wrought, Paving-stone, and Lime used in it. The Prince and Princess of
Wales
have likewise been great Promoters of the Work.
A very great Design is now also begun in this City, of which the following is a brief Account.
On the 10th of
March
1739-40, the first Stone of a new Square was laid, in the Gardens adjoining to the publick Walks. The principal Side of this Square is to have the Appearance of one House, 520 Feet in Front, and 260 Feet in Depth, but is to be divided into 40 Houses: each Front is to have 63 Windows, and each End 31. Two of the other Sides are to serve as Wings to the principal Side: each Wing is to contain 24 Houses upon a perfect Square of 210 Feet, and the Front of these Wings are every one to have 25 Windows; so that when the whole Building is viewed in Front, it will shew 113 Windows, extend 1040 Feet, and from the distant Hills look like one grand Palace. The three Piles of Building will be adorned with above 300 Columns and Pilasters in the
Corinthian
Order:—Upon the Corner of every Pile there will be a Tower, and in every Front will be a Centre-house and a Pediment.
A noble House for publick Assemblies is to be erected by Subscription in this Square; the Ballroom will be like an
Egyptian
Hall, and contain in Length 90 Feet, and Breadth 52 Feet. The Assembly-room will be 90 Feet long. There will be a Garden for the Ladies to walk in; a Bowling-green for the Gentlemen; a grand Parade of 200 Yards long, a Terrace 500 Yards in Circumference, a Portico of the same Dimensions, with divers other Walks in common for all People, and so disposed, that Gentlemen and Ladies may walk at any Season of the Year, at any Hour of the Day, and in any Weather. So that by these great Improvements
Bath
will be rendered one of the most agreeable Places in the World; for, facing this Square, a Bridge with an Arch of 102 Feet opening will be built over the River, by which People of Distinction may go to the
Downs,
as into their own Gardens, for the Air and Exercise.
The River
Avon
runs by the Back of the Town; and on the Banks of it, Mr.
Allen,
who is the Genius of the Place, and whose Works and Inventions there, next to the Waters, are better worth the Attention of the Curious, than any thing in
Bath,
has a fine Wharf, and other convenient Places, to shape, to work, to imbark the Stones of many Tons Weight, which he digs from the Quarry, on the adjacent Hill. This he does by an admirable Machine, which runs down the Hill by Grooves placed in the Ground, without Horses or any other Help, than one Man to guide it, who also by a particular Spring can stop it in the steepest Part of the Hill, and in the swiftest Part of its Motion. These Stones he can carry by the
Avon
to
Bristol,
whence they may be transported to any other Part of
England
; and the new Works of
St. Bartholomew's
Hospital,
London,
are built with them. He is building for himself a very magnificent House of this Stone, with a fine Chapel, and noble Stables and Offices; and has delightful Gardens laid out with a Profusion of Fancy, yet with great Oeconomy, as to the Expence: for, in short, Mr.
Allen
is contented with the Situation of his House and Gardens, (and indeed well he may, for it is a very fine one) and, instead of forcing Nature by a great Expence to bend to Art, he pursues only what the natural Scite points out to him, and, by so doing, will make it one of the cheapest, and at the same time one of the most beautiful Seats in
England.
He levels no Hills, but enjoys the Beauty of the Prospects they afford; he cuts down no Woods, but strikes thro' them fine Walks, and next-to-natural Mazes; and has, by that means, a delightful Grove always filled with Birds, which afford the rural Ear a Musick transcending all others. Nor does he want for fine Conveniencies of Water; and as he is a Gentleman who is not enter'd into the present fashionable Schemes of ridiculing Religion and Scripture, he has a Figure of
Moses
striking the Rock, and the Water gushing out of it, which forms a sort of natural Cascade, whence his Bason is supplied; and is a pretty Allusion to his producing all his Works from the Stone Quarry in his Neighbourhood. This is the same Mr.
Allen,
who first invented the Cross-Post, so useful for the Conveyance of Letters to Places, which before were, in that Particular, at the greatest Uncertainty. The Taste of this Gentleman in his Gardening,
&c.
is so aptly described by Mrs.
Chandler
of the Place, in an ingenious Poem, called,
The Description of
BATH, that the following Quotation from it, must be acceptable.
Thy Taste refin'd appears in yonder Wood,
Not
Nature
tortur'd, but by
Art
improv'd;
Where
cover'd Walks
with
open Vistas
meet,
An
Area
here, and there a
shady Seat.
A thousand Sweets in mingled Odours flow
From blooming
Flow'rs,
which on the Borders grow.
In num'rous Streams the murm'ring Waters thrill,
Uniting all, obedient to thy Will;
Till, by thy Art, in
one Canal
combin'd,
They thro' the
Wood
in various
Mazes
wind;
From thence the foaming Waves fall rapid down,
In bold
Cascades,
and lash the rugged Stone.
But here their Fury lost, the calmer Scene
Delights the softer Muse, and S
ul serene:
An ample
Bason,
Centre of the Place,
In Lymph transparent holds the scaly Race;
Its glassy Face, from ev'ry Ruffle free,
Reflects the Image of each neighb'ring Tree;
On which the
feather'd Choir
's melodious Throng,
By Love inspir'd, unite in tuneful Song;
Their tuneful Song the echoing
Woods
resound,
And falling
Waters
add a solemn Sound:
Sure this the Muses haunt; 'tis hallow'd Ground!
At
Walcot
has been a Camp, and many
Roman
Antiquities have been found. Lord
Winchelsea
has an Urn, a Patera, and other things taken out of a Stone Coffin, wherein was a Child's Body, half a Mile off the
Bath.
When one is upon
Kingsdown,
and has pass'd all the Steeps and Difficulties of the Ascent, there is a plain and pleasant Country for many Miles into
Gloucestershire,
and two very noble Houses, the one built by Mr.
Blathwait,
late Secretary at War; and the other is call'd
Badmington,
a Mansion of the Duke of
Beaufort.
Nor must we forget to mention the handsome Monument erected by Order of the late Lord
Lansdown,
to the Honour of Sir
Bevil Granville,
his Lordship's Ancestor, with an Inscription recording the Action in which he fell. It is built on the Brow of
Lansdown-Hill,
on the very Spot, as near as possible, where that brave Gentleman was kill'd, in the Action between him and Sir
William Waller,
in the late Civil Wars; of which Lord
Clarendon
and others give Account.
I ought not to omit, that in the Session of Parliament 1738-9, an Act passed for inlarging the Terms and Powers granted by Two former Acts of Parliament, for Repairing and Inlarging the Highways between the Top of
Kingsdown-Hill
and the City of
Bath
; and for Amending several other Roads leading from
Bristol,
and other Places, to
Bath
; and for
cleansing, paving,
and
enlightening
the STREETS, and regulating the CHAIRMEN there; and for keeping a regular Nightly WATCH, within the said City and Liberties: All which, when effected according to the Intention of the Act, will be a great Conveniency to
Bath,
and to Persons resorting to it.
I will just mention also, that at
Chipping-Norton-Lane,
near
Bath,
was a Fight between the Forces of King
James
II. and those of the Duke of
Monmouth,
in which the latter had the Advantage, and, if they had pursu'd it, would have gain'd a complete Victory. An old Elm-Tree, standing near
Stanton-Drew,
in a Road leading three Ways, afforded a sad Testimony of the Event of the Duke's Enterprize; for it was all overspread with the Heads and Limbs of the unfortunate Persons engag'd in his Cause, who suffer'd by the Sentence of the merciless
Jefferies.
About
Twyfordton,
not far from
Bath,
is a fallow Field, call'd
Marsbury-Field,
with but little Quantity of Earth upon the Rock. This was very full of fossile Shells, which had preserv'd their natural Colour of Blue and White as perfectly as at first.
In
Chu
Parish is
Bowditch,
so call'd from its circular Form; it was a large Camp on a Hill trebly fortified, whence you may behold the Isles of
Flatholm
and
Steepholm
in the Sea. Here is a petrifying Spring. This Country abounds with Coal-pits. The Slates which lie upon it, and have not receiv'd their due Quantity of Sulphur, so as to make perfect Coal, are most curiously mark'd with Impressions of Plants, particularly those of Fern. This is indeed a Rock, full of Springs, a very bad Road for Travelling, consisting of short and steep Valleys, narrow Lanes, intricate, dark, and hard. The Ground is very rich, and bears much Wood. The Neatness of the Houses even of the poorer Sort of People is remarkable, being generally whited over, and imbellish'd with little Gardens. We come in Ten Miles from
Bath
to the City of
Bristol,
the greatest, the richest, and the best Port of Trade in
Great-Britain, London
only excepted.
Bristol
has been formerly a Place of Strength, and had a Castle, in which King
Stephen
was kept Prisoner some time by
Maud
the Empress. It was besieged in the Civil Wars, and made a good Defence. The Castle stood till the Time of
Oliver Cromwell,
who demolish'd it. It is a County-Town, and one of King
Henry
VIII.'s new Bishopricks.
The Merchants of this City have not only the greatest Trade, but they trade with a more intire Independency upon
London,
than any other Town in
Britain.
And 'tis evident in this Particular,
viz.
That whatsoever Exportations they make to any Part of the World, they are able to bring the full Returns back to their own Port, and can dispose of them there; which is not the Case in any other Port in
England
; where they are often oblig'd either to ship part of the Effects in the Ports abroad, on the Ships bound to
London
; or to consign their own Vessels to
London,
in order both to get Freight, and dispose of their own Cargoes.
But the
Bristol
Merchants, as they have a very great Trade abroad, so they have always Buyers at home for their Returns, and that such Buyers, that no Cargo is too big for them. To this Purpose, the Shopkeepers in
Bristol,
who in general are Wholesale-men, have so great an Inland Trade among all the Western Counties, that they maintain Carriers, just as the
London
Tradesmen do, to all the principal Countries and Towns from
Southampton
in the South, even to the Banks of the
Trent,
North; although they have no navigable River that Way.
Add to this, That, as well by Sea, as by the Navigation of two great Rivers, the
Wye,
and the
Severn,
they have the whole Trade of
South-Wales,
as it were, to themselves, and the greatest Part of that of
North-Wales
; and as to their Trade to
Ireland,
it is prodigiously increas'd since the Revolution, notwithstanding the great Trade which of late the Merchants of
Liverpool
also drive with that Kingdom.
The greatest Inconveniencies of
Bristol
are its Situation, its narrow Streets, and the Narrowness of its River; and we might mention also another
Narrow
; that is, the
Minds
of the Generality of its People; for, let me tell you, the Merchants of
Bristol,
tho' very rich, are not like the Merchants of
London:
the latter may be said (as of old of the Merchants of
Tyre
) to vie with the Princes of the Earth; whereas the former, being rais'd by good Fortune, and Prizes taken in the Wars, from Masters of Ships, and blunt Tars, have imbib'd the Manners of these rough Gentlemen so strongly, that they transmit it to their Descendants, only with a little more of the Sordid, than is generally to be found among the
British
Sailors; and I would advise the rich ones among them, if they would be a little more polite and generous, than they usually are, to
travel,
but not out of
England
neither; I mean only to
London
(that is, from the second great Trading Town to the first); and they will see Examples worth their Imitation, as well for princely Spirit, as upright and generous Dealings.
The Corporation being very tenacious in not admitting Persons to trade in their Liberty, who are not Freemen, there are not so many new Buildings, and Improvements of Streets,
&c.
at
Bristol,
as would otherwise be. As for the City itself, there is hardly Room to set another House in it. The great Square, called
Queen
's, formerly the
Mead,
where the Ground was subject to the Hazard of Inundations, is now so rais'd, that it is free from that Inconvenience: It is very handsomely built and inhabited, and a fine Equestrian Statue of King
William
III. erected in the middle of it, done by the famous
Rysbrack.
The Quay along the River is very noble, and well filled with all Sorts of Merchandize, and a handsome Row of Houses fronts it. And I was inform'd, when I was there last, that in order to make the Back of this City more commodious than ever, the Corporation have purchased several Houses adjoining to the Back-Gate, in order to pull them down, and make all flush from the Conduit on the Back, clear round to the Quay; which when finish'd, will be one of the completest Harbours in
Europe.
This Quay is reckoned the longest in
England.
It has a Crane on it, the Workmanship of the late ingenious Mr.
Padmore,
which is not to be equalled in
Europe.
The Merchants are greatly benefited by it, in the extraordinary Dispatch it gives to the discharging of their Ships.
College-Green
is deemed the healthiest Situation in the City.
There is erected within these few Years an Assembly Room, for Entertainment and Amusement of the Gay, as at other considerable Places; for Luxury must always follow Riches. It is a very handsome Building, and stands in the Way from the City to the
Hot-well.
The old Theatre at
Stokes-Croft
is also alter'd into a commodious Room for an Assembly, which is held every
Tuesday
during the Winter.
There were, when I was there, no less than fifteen Glass-Houses in
Bristol,
which is more than are in the City of
London:
they use indeed, themselves, a very great Number of Glass Bottles, which they send fill'd with Beer, Cyder, and Wine, to the
West-Indies,
much more than goes from
London
; also vast Numbers of Bottles are now used for sending the Water of St.
Vincent
's Rock, not only all over
England,
but, we may say, all over the World.
This
Hot-well,
or Water of St.
Vincent
's Rock, is without the City, at the Confluence of the two little Rivers, and on the North-side of the Stream. Not many Years since, this Spring lay open at the Foot of the Rock, and was covered by the salt Water at every Tide; and yet it preserved both its Warmth and Virtue intire.
The Rock, tho' hard to Admiration, has since that been work'd down, partly by Labour, and partly blown in Pieces by Gunpowder; and an handsome large House is built upon it, where they have good Apartments for entertaining distemper'd Persons. The Well is secur'd, and a good Pump is fix'd in it, so that they have the Water pure and unmix'd from the Spring itself, and they export vast Quantities; for this Water keeps its Virtue better than that of
Bath.
The following curious Account of the
Bristol
Waters, I am indebted for to the same eminent Physician, who favoured me with the learned Account of the Nature, and Efficacy of the
Bath
and
Tunbridge
Waters.
The
Bristol
Waters, he says, seem only a natural Lime-water, or pure Element impregnated with a natural unburnt Limestone. All the Hills and Mountains round that Water are nothing but a Quarry of natural unburnt Limestone, which is daily dug up there for Building, and manifests itself to the Senses. This makes these
Bristol
Waters, one of the purest, best, and most salutary, mere aqueous Elements on the Globe, to cool all over-heated Bowels, and to lessen all preternatural Discharges. But the small
Milk-warmth
in them, when immediately pump'd up, upon the Well's being drain'd of the Influx of the Tide, shews there is some other Principle in them besides natural Limestone: and that in Nature can be no other than some weak Impregnation of Sulphur with Nitre or Sea Salt, or perhaps a slight Touch of Iron. The Stones are some reddish, some blackish, that are digg'd out of the Mountains circumjacent, but all of them natural Limestone. These reddish and blackish Colours in the Stones necessarily imply Sulphur and Iron; and these Three Principles, by chymical Processes and Mixtures, are discovered in some small Proportion in the Waters. They are excellent in all scorbutick and nervous Atrophies, in Hecticks, weak Lungs, all Inflammations in whatever Part, all preternatural Evacuations; in short, in all acrid Juices and viscid Blood, being a natural Simple
Alcali
; and in the first Stages of a
Phthisis Pulmonum
; and if early had recourse to, and long continued under a low, cooling, nutritive Regimen, they would probably stop the Growth and Causes of most chronical Distempers.
There are 17 Parishes in the City, but 19 Churches, including the Cathedral and the Church of
St. Mark.
There are besides those Churches, several Meeting-houses, for the different Sectaries,
viz.
Independents, Quakers, and Baptists.
The Cathedral is far from extraordinary.
Several of the Churches are very neat, and beautifully decorated, and worthy a Traveller's Attention. That of
St. Mary Radcliffe,
or
Redcliff,
is a noble and stately Edifice. It is very large and spacious, and has a fine Steeple or Tower.
In it is a very antient Monument for Mr.
William Cannings,
Burgess and Merchant of
Bristol,
the Founder of the Church, and a great Benefactor otherwise to the City of
Bristol.
On one Part of the Monument is a
Latin
Inscription, full of Abbreviations; and, on the other Side, in
English,
an Inscription to his Praise, which I have not room to insert.
Here is also an Inscription on the Monument of Sir
William Penn,
Knt. Vice-Admiral of
England,
the Father of the great
William Penn,
one of the Heads of the
Quakers,
who was a Native of the City of
Bristol.
A great Face of Seriousness and Religion appears at
Bristol,
and the Magistrates are laudably strict in exacting the Observation of the Sabbath, considering the general Dissoluteness that has broken in almost every-where else.
One thing they deserve high Commendation for; and that is the Neatness observ'd in keeping their Churches, and the Care they take in preserving the Monuments and Inscriptions of those bury'd in 'em. A Practice scandalously neglected almost every-where else in
England,
and even at Places we might mention, where Money (another scandalous Practice) is exacted for seeing them. This Care of the Monuments of the Dead brings many Visitors to their Churches of travelling Strangers, who are always pleas'd with it, and make Comparisons in its Favour, tho' very little to the Credit of some others, who are more negligent. 'Tis indeed strange, That the Heirs and Families of the Deceased should not think themselves more concern'd, than they generally are, to keep up the Monuments of their Ancestors. With great Piety, and at a great Expence, the next Heir, or the most oblig'd, rears a Monument to the Deceas'd, and it is dedicated, too, professedly, to Posterity. In a very little while, the Monument is cover'd with Dust and Cobwebs, and the Inscription often effaced. Common Decency does not succeed to this Piety, and it becomes a Monument of the Ingratitude or Neglect of the Survivors, rather than an Honour to the Deceas'd.
Methinks Vanity alone, the common Inducement to these Erections, should inspire another Manner of Acting. I cannot account for it any other way, but that from the Prince to the Peasant, as a Family generally lies together in one Vault or Tomb, very few are willing to see or think of their Coffins; and hence it is, That some Men often look upon their very Heirs as
Memento Mori's.
Unhappy Narrowness of Mind, equally to be lamented and despis'd!
Bristol
is supposed to have an hundred thousand Inhabitants in the City, and within three Miles of its Circumference; and they say, above Three Thousand Sail of Ships belong to that Port.
'Tis very remarkable, That this City is so well supply'd with Coals, that tho' they are all brought by Land Carriage, yet they are generally laid down at the Doors of the Inhabitants, at seven, eight, or nine Shillings
per
Chaldron.
The Situation of the City is low, but on the Side of a rising Hill. The Ground Plat of it is said very much to resemble that of old
Rome,
being circular, with a something greater Diameter one way than another, but enough to make it oval; and the River cutting off one small Part, as it were, a Sixth, or less, from the rest.
The Bridge over the
Avon
is exceeding strong, the Arches very high, because of the Depth of Water, and the Buildings so close upon it, that in passing the Bridge, you see nothing but an intire full-built Street. The Tide of Flood rises here near six Fathom, and runs very strong.
They draw all their heavy Goods here on
Sleds,
or
Sledges,
which they call
Gee-hoes,
without Wheels. This kills a Multitude of Horses; and the Pavement is worn so smooth by them, that in wet Weather the Streets are very slippery, and in frosty Weather 'tis dangerous walking.
The noble Charities of Mr.
Edward Colston,
a worthy Merchant of
Bristol,
and his Foundations, are an Honour to the Place, and to the Memory of that excellent Man: and I am sorry, that my narrow Limits will not permit me to give a particular Account of them.
But I ought not to omit, that one of his Charities only, cost him 25000
l.
and that is the noble Hospital or Alms-house erected by him, in the Year 1691, upon his own Ground, on
St. Michael's-Hill.
The Front and two Sides are fac'd with Freestone: it contains a Chapel neatly adorn'd, 24 Apartments, and other Conveniencies, for 12 Men, and 12 Women. The elder Brother receives 6
s.
and each of the others 3
s.
weekly, besides an Allowance for Coal,
&c.
To a Clergyman is paid the Sum of 10
l.
yearly, for reading the
Common
Prayer
twice every Day, except when Prayers are read in
St. Michael
's Church, at which every Member of this Alms-house is to attend.
In the Year 1696, he also purchas'd a Piece of Ground in
Temple-street,
and built at his own Charge a School and Dwelling-house, for a Master to instruct 40 Boys, in Writing, Arithmetick, and the Church Catechism. The Boys are likewise to be cloathed.
And his other Charities and Benefactions were without Number.
On
St. Peter
's Day,
June
29. 1738, was open'd at the Mint, an Infirmary for this City, for the Reception of the sick, lame, and distressed Poor, after the Example of those in
London, Winchester,
&c. It is denominated
St. Peter
's Hospital, and very liberal Contributions have been made to it; and particularly, we are told, that
John Elbridge,
Esq
Comptroller of the Customs in this City, who dy'd
February
1738-9, besides many other charitable Donations, bequeathed 5000
l.
to this Infirmary, besides endowing a Charity School on
St. Michael
's Hill, which he built several Years before his Death, for educating and cloathing a certain Number of poor Girls.
Large Pieces of Ground are clear'd for building a Market, and a magnificent Exchange; the former in
High-street,
and the latter in
Corn-street.
The old Buildings which have been destroy'd for that Purpose, have cost the Chamber of this City upwards of Twenty thousand Pounds. And on the 10th of
March
1740-1, the first Stone of the Exchange was laid by the Mayor, with great Ceremony, with several Pieces of Gold and Silver Coin under it, and this Inscription, on the Stone:
Regnante GEORGIO
II.
Pio, Felici, Augusto, Libertatis & Rei Mercatoriae Domi Forisque Vindice, primarium Lapidem hujusce Aedificii, Suffragio Civium, & Aere publico extructi, posuit
HENRICUS COMBE,
Praetor, A. C.
MDCCXL.
That is,
In the Reign of
GEORGE II.
Pious, Prosperous, August, Vindicator, at Home and Abroad, of Liberty and Trade,
HENRY COMBE,
Mayor, placed the First Stone of this Structure erected by the Votes of the Citizens, and at the publick Expence,
A. D. 1740.
This Edifice when finish'd, will be one of the completest of its Kind in
Europe.
The old Library in
King-street
is rebuilding in a very handsome Manner, as is also
Merchant-Taylors-Hall
in
Broad-street,
a Freestone Building near 70 Feet long, and Breadth proportionable.
From this City I had Thoughts of coasting the Marshes or Border of
Wales,
especially
South-Wales,
by tracing the Rivers
Wye
and
Lug,
in
Monmouth
and
Herefordshire:
but chang'd my Mind on Occasion of the Danger of the Ferries over the
Severn.
In the mean time, I resolv'd to follow the Course of this famous River, by which I should necessarily see the richest, most fertile, and most agreeable Part of
England
; the Banks of the
Thames
only excepted.
From
Bristol,
West, you enter the County of
Gloucester,
and keeping the
Avon
in View, you see
King-Road,
where the Ships generally take their Departure, as ours at
London
do from
Gravesend,
and
Hung-Road
; and where they notify their Arrival, as ours for
London
do in the
Downs.
The one lies within the
Avon,
the other in the
Severn Sea.
Indeed great Part of
Bristol
is in the Bounds of
Gloucestershire,
though it be a County of itself. From hence going away a little North-west, we come to the
Pill,
a convenient Road for Shipping, and where therefore they generally run back for
Ireland,
or for
Wales.
There is also, a little farther, an ugly, dangerous, and very inconvenient Ferry over the
Severn,
to the Mouth of
Wye
; namely, at
Aust
; which I shall mention again presently.
As we turn
North
towards
Gloucester,
we lose the Sight of the
Avon,
and, in about two Miles, exchange it for an open View of the
Severn Sea,
which you see on the West Side, and which seems as broad as the Ocean there; except that you see two small Islands in it, and that looking N. W. you discern plainly the Coast of
South-Wales
; and particularly, a little nearer hand, the Shore of
Monmouthshire.
Then, as you go on, the Shores begin to draw towards one another, and the Coasts to lie parallel; so that the
Severn
appears to be a plain River, or an
Aestuarium,
somewhat like the
Humber,
or as the
Thames
is at the
Nore,
being 4 to 5 and 6 Miles over; and is indeed a most raging and furious kind of Sea. This is occasion'd by those violent Tides call'd the
Bore,
which flow here sometimes 6 or 7 Feet at once, rolling forward like a mighty Wave: so that the Stern of a Vessel shall on a sudden be lifted up 6 or 7 Feet upon the Water, when the Head of it is fast a-ground.
After Coasting the Shore about 4 Miles farther, the Road being by the low Salt Marshes kept at a Distance from the River; we came to
Aust
Ferry, from a little dirty Village call'd
Aust
; near which you come to take Boat.
This Ferry lands you at
Beachly
in
Monmouthshire,
so that on the Outside it is call'd
Aust Passage,
and on the other Side
Beachly Passage.
From whence you go by Land two little Miles to
Chepstow,
a large Port Town on the River
Wye.
But of that Part I shall say more in its Place.
Here is a good neat Chapel, with an high Tower at the West-end, adorned with Pinacles.
This Place is memorable from a Circumstance in the Reign of King
Edw.
I. who being here, invited
Lewellin
Prince of
Wales,
who was on the other Side, to come over and confer with him, and settle some Matters in Dispute between them; but the Prince refused, and the King thereupon cross'd over to him, who, in a Rapture of Generosity, leap'd into the Water, to receive the King in his Boat, telling him, His Humility had conquer'd his Pride, and his Wisdom triumphed over his Folly.
When we came to
Aust,
the hither Side of the
Passage,
the Sea was so broad, the Fame of the
Bore
of the Tide so formidable, the Wind also made the Water so rough, and, which was worse, the Boats to carry over both Man and Horse appear'd so very mean, that, in short, none of us car'd to venture: so we came back, and resolv'd to keep on the Road to
Gloucester.
Thornbury
is a Market Town, and hath a Customary Mayor and 12 Aldermen, and was given in the Conqueror's Time to the famous
Fitz-Hammon.
Here are the Foundations of a large Castle, design'd but never finish'd, by the Duke of
Buckingham
in King
Henry
VIII.'s Time. Here is a spacious Church built Cathedral-wise, it has fine wide Ayles, and 3 Chancels, with a high and beautiful Tower. Here is a Free-School and 4 small Alms-houses.
On the right lies
Wotton,
a pretty Market-town, governed by a Mayor elected annually at the Court-Leet. 'Tis famous for its Cloathing Trade. The Church, which is a Vicarage, is large, and hath Two wide Ayles, and an high handsome Tower, adorned with Battlements and Pinacles. There are in it divers Tombs, Monuments, and Inscriptions, chiefly for the Family of
Berkley.
Here is a Free-school and some Charity-houses.
Directly North of this Town lies
Dursley,
a good Cloathing and Market Town, governed by a Bailiff and 4 Constables, and has been formerly noted for sharp, over-reaching People, from whence arose a Proverbial Saying of a sharp Man,
He is a Man of
Dursley. The Church is good, hath 2 Ayles, and an handsome Spire.
Turning North-west, we came to
Berkley,
a noted Town, so called from
Berk,
a Beech, and
Leas,
Pasture. It is the largest Parish in the County, and consists of rich Meadow-grounds, and above 30 Parishes depend on this Manor, for which a Feefarm Rent was paid, in King
Henry
II.'s Time, of 500
l.
17
s.
2
d.
which shews the vast Extent and Value of this Estate. It belongs to the present Earl of
Berkley,
who is also Baron of
Dursley.
Adjoining to this Town is the strong Castle of
Berkley,
a magnificent, tho' antique Building, and the antient Seat of this noble Family, from whence it derives its Name as well as Title, ever since the Time of King
Henry
II. who gave it to
Robert Fitzharding,
who assumed the Name of
Berkley,
and from whom the present Earl is lineally descended. King
Edw.
II. of
England,
as all our learned Writers agree, was murder'd in this Castle; as King
Richard
II. was in that of
Pontefract,
in
Yorkshire
; but I refer to our Histories for these horrid Facts. They shew the Apartments, where they say that King was kept a Prisoner: but they do not admit that he was kill'd there. The Place is rather antient, than pleasant or healthful, lying low, and near the Water. Here is a large spacious Church, with an Ayle on each Side, and a Chapel adjoining, which is the Burial-place of the Family, a neat Vestry, and a strong high Tower.
On the Right of the Road is
Stanley,
a little Market-town, where was formerly a Priory, the Ruins whereof appear still. The Church is built in the Form of a Cross, with a Tower in the middle.
A great Improvement has been lately made in these Parts; for the Earl of
Berkley
has just finished (1740) a great Bulwark at
Frampton
upon
Severn,
near this Place, called
Hock-Crib,
the Design of which is to inforce the River
Severn,
by
Art's-Point,
into its former Chanel. It is said his Lordship intends to build another, four Miles below the former, by which he will undoubtedly gain a large Tract of Land, contiguous to what is call'd the
New Grounds,
inferior to none in
England
for the Richness of its Soil.
From hence we saw, across the River, the antient Forest of
Dean,
which once contained 30000 Acres of Land, being Twenty Miles long, and so full of Wood, that it was very dangerous to travel through it. Its Oak was famous for Shipping, the Glory of our own, and so much the Envy of other Nations, that the famous
Spanish Armada
had it in special Charge to burn it. The great Number of Iron Forges near it has greatly lessened, tho' not consum'd the Wood, which is still preserved with great Care. It is subject to Forest-Laws, and the Iron-Miners have here a Court also.
From hence to
Gloucester,
we see nothing considerable, but a most fertile, rich Country, and a fine River, but narrower, as you go Northward, till, a little before we come to
Gloucester,
it ceases to be navigable by Ships of Burden, but continues to be so, by large Barges, above an hundred Miles farther, not reckoning the Turnings and Windings of the River: besides that it receives several large and navigable Rivers into it.
Gloucester
(call'd by the
Britons, Caer-glow,
i. e.
Fine City,
and in Imitation of it
Glevum
by the
Romans
) abounds much with Crosses and Statues of the Kings of
England,
and has an handsome Prospect of Steeples, some without a Church; for in the late Civil Wars, when it held out vigorously against King
Charles
I. and was then very strong, it suffer'd much; for its Eleven Churches were then reduced to Five, and all its Walls and Works were demolished. The City is still tolerably built; and here is a large Stone Bridge over the
Severn,
the first next the Sea. Here are several Market-houses supported with Pillars, one a very old one of Stone, in
Gothick
Architecture, antient and uncommon, now turn'd into a Cistern for Water.
The old Proverb,
As sure as God's at
Gloucester, certainly alluded to the vast Number of Churches and religious Foundations here; for you can scarce walk past 10 Doors, but somewhat of that sort occurs.
The Cathedral is an old venerable Pile. The Western Part is old and mean; but from the Tower, which is very handsome, you have a most glorious Prospect Eastward, thro' the Choir finely vaulted at top; and the Ladies Chapel to the East Window, which is very magnificent. On the North-side lies that unfortunate King
Edw.
II. in an Alabaster Tomb, and, out of the Abundance of pious Offerings to his Remains, the Religious built this Choir; and the Votaries to his Shrine, for some time after his Death, could hardly find Room in the Town. So changeable are the Tempers of Men! and so little a Space is requir'd to dispose the Minds of the fluctuating Many, to
Hosannah
or
Crucify!
Before the High Altar in the Middle of the Church, lies the equally unfortunate Prince
Robert,
eldest Son of the Conqueror, after a miserable Life for many Years before his Death. But his Monument remains, and his Bones are at Rest; which is more than can be said of the Monument of his younger Brother, King
Henry
I. who, as the second Brother
William Rufus
had done, robbed him of his Right, and no Traces of his Monument are left at
Reading-Abbey,
where he was bury'd with his Queen. He lies in a wooden Tomb, with his Coat of Arms painted, and upon it his Effigies in
Irish
Oak, crosslegg'd like a
Jerusalem
Knight. The famous
Strongbow,
who subdued
Ireland,
lies buried in the Chapter-house.
The Cloysters in this Cathedral are exquisitely beautiful, in the Style of the Chapel of
King's-College, Cambridge.
There are large Remains in the City of Abbeys of Black and White Friers. A Mile or two distant is
Robin Hood
's Hill, as it is called, which affords now a pleasant Walk for the Citizens, and from which they are attempting to supply the City with Water, which it much wants. By this City, the
Rickning
Way runs from the
Severn
's Mouth into
Yorkshire.
The Inhabitants boast much of the Antiquity of their first Cathedral, which they pretend had Bishops and Preachers here
Anno
189: The
first
Cathedral, we say; for, it has been, as reported, thrice destroy'd by Fire.
William the Conqueror
gave this City and Castle to the famous
Robert Fitz-Hammon,
afterwards Lord of
Glamorgan. Edol,
one of the
British
Nobles, who attended King
Vortigern
to the Congress appointed by
Hengist,
was Earl of this Place. He was a Man of great personal Strength, and seeing the
Saxons
drawing forth their conceal'd Weapons, he disarm'd one of them, and fought valiantly; but being overpower'd by Numbers, he escap'd to this City, after having kill'd 70
Saxons
with his own Hands. Afterwards, in a Battle fought against the
Saxons
near the River
Don,
he fix'd his Eye upon
Hengist,
and never quitted him, till he took him Prisoner, and struck off his Head.
In the little Isle of
Alney,
near this Town, the famous single Combat was fought between
Edmund Ironside
and
Canute
the
Dane,
for the whole Kingdom, in Sight of both their Armies.
The City is governed by a Mayor, 12 Aldermen, and 24 Common-council-men. It has also an High-Steward, (who is usually a Nobleman) and a Recorder. They are allow'd the highest Marks of magistratical Honour, Scarlet Gowns, the Sword, and Cap of Maintenance, and 4 Sergeants at Mace. Here are 12 Companies, the Masters whereof attend the Mayor on all publick Occasions in their Gowns, and with Streamers. It has a large Quay and Wharf on the River for Trade, and a Custom-house. Here is also a Town-hall for the Assizes and publick Business, which they call the
Booth-hall,
and great Part of the Castle is still standing.
The first Protestant Bishop of this Church was that truly Reverend and Religious Divine, Dr.
John Hooper,
who was burnt to Death in the Cemetery of his own Cathedral, in the Reign of Queen
Mary.
The Whispering-place in this Cathedral formerly pass'd for a kind of Wonder among the Vulgar; but since, Experience has taught the easily-comprehended Reason of the Thing; and there is now the like in the Church of
St. Paul, London.
Here is great Provision for the Poor by Hospitals; particularly
Bartholomew
's Hospital maintains 54 Men and Women, to whom belong a Minister, Physician and Surgeon. And Sir
Thomas Rich,
Bart. a Native of this Place, gave 6000
l.
by Will, for a
Blue-Coat
Hospital, wherein are educated 20 poor Boys; and 10 poor Men and 10 Women are maintain'd, and cloath'd annually. Besides these and three more, there are many Benefactions to encourage young Tradesmen, and place out Boys Apprentices. And they have lately erected an Infirmary here, after the laudable Example of that of
Winchester,
&c.
At
Lassington,
near
Gloucester,
are found certain Stones about the Breadth of a Silver Peny, and Thickness of a Half-crown, called
Astroites
or Star-stones, being fine-pointed like a Star, and flat. They are of a greyish Colour, and the flat Sides are naturally finely engraven, as it were. But I have taken Notice of these before.
From
Gloucester
we kept Eastward, and soon came to
Cheltenham,
a Market-town, where is still a pretty good Trade carried on in Malt, but not so considerable as formerly. Here is a good Church in the Form of a Cross, with Ayles on each Side, and a Spire rising in the Middle, noted for a good Ring of Bells. But what is more remarkable is, that the Minister is to be nominated by, and must be a Fellow of,
Jesus-College, Oxon,
(tho' the Vicarage is but 40
l.
a Year) but approv'd of by the Earl of
Gainsborough
; and he can't hold it more than six Years. Here is a Free-school, an Hospital, and some other Charities.
The Mineral Waters lately discovered at
Cheltenham,
which are of the
Scarborough
Kind, are what will make this Place still more and more remarkable, and frequented. An eminent Physician has obliged me with the following Account of their Nature, and Qualities.
These Waters, he observes, were first found out by the Flocks of all the neighbouring Pigeons going constantly thither to provoke their Appetites, as well as to quench the uncommon Thirst of these salacious hot Birds. I have been informed, says he, by a Physician of Credit and Experience, who had made all the common Trials on them, and observed their Effects on many Persons of various Constitutions, and in different Distempers, who had drank them, That, on Evaporation, they were found to contain, in a Gallon, eight Drachms of a nitrous Salt, with two Drachms of an alcalious Earth: That they were compounded of a large Quantity of Nitre, to which they owed their purgative Virtue; a light Sulphur, which the fetid Dejections manifested; and a volatile Steel, discoverable by a transparent blue Colour, when mix'd with an Infusion of Nut-galls. Alcalious Spirits have no Effect on them; but they ferment with Acids. He further adds, That there might be found some other Materials in their Composition, perhaps, if more minutely examined and tortured: but that these mentioned Principles were evident and incontestable, and were sufficient to account for all their Effects and Operation; the others (if there be any) being of little Efficacy. In the Operation they empty the Bowels according to their Dose, but gently, mildly, and easily, without Sickness, Nausea, Gripes, or causing great Lowness, far beyond any artificial Purges whatsoever. They give a good Appetite, an easy Digestion, and quiet Nights, in all Nephritick and Gouty Cases, when not under the Fit; in all Rheumatick, Scrophulous, Scorbutic, or Leprous Cases; but especially in Spermatic, Urinary, or Haemorrhoidal Cases, he thinks them sovereign, and not to be match'd. In a Word, in all Inflammatory Cases of whatever Kind, and whatever Part, he thinks them one of the most salutary Means which can be used. Those of pretty strong Nerves, and firm Constitutions, bear them with high Spirits, great Pleasure, and Profit; but they do not at all suit with those of weak Nerves, Paralytick, Hypochondriack, or Hysterick Disorders, or those who are subject to any kind of Fits, Cramps, or Convulsions: they ruffle such too much, as generally all Purgatives do. He thinks they have a great Affinity to the
Scarborough
Waters, and might do great Cures in most Chronical Distempers, if Exercise, and a proper Regimen, were directed with them.
Following the Road towards
Warwick
directly, we arriv'd at
Winchcomb,
a small Market-town, situate in a Bottom, in the midst of good Pasture and Arable Lands, but of no great Account. The Church is a good Building, hath two Ayles, a large Chancel, and a lofty Tower adorn'd with Battlements and Pinacles. It is remarkable, that it is a Curacy worth no more than 10
l.
a Year, tho' the Impropriation is worth 300
l.
annually. Here was formerly a very rich Abbey, whereof the Abbot was Mitred, founded by
Offa
King of
Mercia.
Here we turned from the Road, and struck N.W. to
Tewksbury,
encompassed with 4 Rivers; the
Avon
and
Carran
on the N. the
Severn
on the W. and the
Swyliate
on the S. 'Tis govern'd by 2 Bailiffs, and 24 Burgesses; and its Neighbourhood to
Cotswold-Downs
makes the Cloathing Trade flourish here. It is a large and very populous Town, situate upon the
Warwickshire
River
Avon,
so call'd to distinguish it from the
Bristol Avon,
and others. The Town was long famous for its Mustard-balls, as also for a great Manufacture of Stockens; as are also
Campden
in this County, and
Pershore
in
Worcestershire.
The great old Church at
Tewksbury
may be called one of the largest Churches in
England,
that is not Collegiate or Cathedral. It is very high, has two spacious Ayles, a stately Tower, and a large Chancel. The Communion-Table is one intire Marble Stone near 14 Feet long, and 3 and ½ broad.
The Town is famous for the decisive Battle fought between the Houses of
Lancaster
and
York,
in the Reign of King
Edward
IV. of the latter House, who was Conqueror.
As
Tewksbury
lies on the Borders of
Worcestershire,
we soon entered that County, and came to
Upton,
an antient Market-Town of some Note upon the
Severn,
over which it has a good Bridge.
Roman
Coins are frequently dug up here.
On the Left, Westward of this Town, and which parts this County from that of
Hereford,
are
Malvern
Hills, which consist of large Mountains, prodigiously high and lofty, gradually rising one above another for about 7 Miles together. On these Hills are two Villages, call'd
Great Malvern
and
Little Malvern,
at the Distance of about Two Miles from each other, each having had formerly an Abbey of
Benedictines,
the last lying in a dismal Cavity between the Hills. On the very Top of these Hills may be seen the Ruins of a prodigious Ditch, which
Gilbert
Earl of
Gloucester
dug, to separate his Possessions from those of the Church of
Hereford.
On these Hills are 2 Medicinal Springs, called
Holy Wells:
one is good for the Eyes, and putrid fetid Livers; and the other for Cancers.
From
Upton
we travelled North-east, and came to
Pershore,
which lies on the lower
London
Road to
Worcester:
it is said to be so called from the great Number of Pear-trees, which thrive plentifully here. It is a pleasant Market-Town lying on the
Avon,
and famous for the Stocken Trade, as I have mentioned before.
Eastward of this Town stands
Evesham,
situate on a gentle Ascent from the same River, over which it hath a Bridge of 7 stately Arches. It is an antient Mayor-town, and has the Privilege to try Felons. It is memorable for the decisive Battle, wherein
Simon Montfort
and the Barons were defeated by Prince
Edward,
afterwards King
Edward
I. who thereby released his Father out of Captivity. Here are 2 Churches, with small Spire Steeples; but neither of them has any Bells, which have been removed to a famous Tower built by Abbot
Litchfield,
and stands near these Churches.
All around this Town lies that fruitful and plentiful Country, call'd from this Place,
The Vale of Evesham,
which runs all along the Banks of the
Avon,
from
Tewksbury
to
Pershore,
and to
Stratford
upon
Avon,
in the South Part of
Warwickshire
; which River is so far navigable.
The Parish Church of
Stratford
is very old. In it we saw the Monument of the inimitable
Shakespeare,
whose Dramatick Performances set him at the Head of the
British
Theatre, and will make him renown'd to the End of Time. His Busto is in the Wall on the North-side of the Church, and a flat Grave-stone covers the Body, in the Ayle just under him; on which Grave-stone these Lines are written:
Good Friend, for Jesus' sake, forbear
To move the Dust that resteth here.
Blest be the Man that spares these Stones;
And curst be he, that moves my Bones!
Over the
Avon
at
Stratford
is built a fair Stone Bridge of 14 Arches, with a long Causeway at the West End of it, wall'd on both Sides.
The Navigation of this River
Avon
is an exceeding Advantage to all this Part of the Country, and also to the Commerce of the City of
Bristol.
For by this River they drive a very great Trade for Sugar, Oil, Wine, Tobacco, Iron, Lead, and, in a Word, all heavy, Goods which are usually carried by Water almost as far as
Warwick
; and in Return, the Corn, and especially Cheese, are carried back from
Gloucestershire
and
Warwickshire,
to
Bristol
; for
Gloucester
Cheese is excellent of the kind, and this County drives a great Trade in it.
This Vale extending itself in
Warwickshire,
and under the Ridge of little Mountains call'd
Edge-hill,
is there call'd the Vale of
Red-horse.
All the Grounds, put together, make a most pleasant Corn Country, especially remarkable for the Goodness of the Air, and Fertility of the Soil.
Not far from
Stretford,
on the Borders of this County of
Worcester,
is
Alcester,
a Market-town, much frequented by Dealers in Corn: it is of great Antiquity; as appears by old Foundations of Buildings made of
Roman
Brick, and Gold, Silver and Brass Coins found here. The old
Roman
Way, called
Ikenild-street,
passes thro' the Town.
Gloucestershire
must not be passed over, without some Account of another pleasant and fruitful Vale, which crosses part of the Country, from East to West, on that Side of the
Cotswold,
and which is called
Stroud-water
; famous not only for the finest Cloths, but for dying those Cloths of the beautifulest Scarlets, and other grand Colours, that are anywhere in
England,
perhaps in any Part of the World. Here I saw Two Pieces of Broad-cloth made, one Scarlet, the other Crimson in Grain, which were sent as Presents, the one to the late King
George,
whilst Elector, and the other to his present Majesty, which were very graciously accepted. The Cloth was valued at 45
s. per
Yard, and was well worth it; for nothing so rich of that kind had been ever made in
England
before, as I was informed.
The Clothiers lie all along the Banks of this River, for near 20 Miles, and in the Town of
Stroud,
which lies in the middle of it, as also at
Paynswick,
which I have mentioned before. The River makes its Way to the
Severn,
about Five Miles below
Gloucester.
From
Tewksbury,
North, it is 12 Miles to
Worcester,
along the Banks of the
Severn,
where I was wonderfully delighted with the
Hedge-rows,
lin'd all the Way with Apple and Pear-trees, full of Fruit, and those so common, that any Passengers, as they travel the Road, may gather and eat what they please. Here also, as well as in
Gloucestershire,
you meet with Cyder in the Publick-houses, sold as Beer and Ale is in other Parts of
England,
and as cheap.
We saw at a Distance, in a most agreeable Situation, the Seat of Sir
Herbert Perrot Pakington,
a Baronet of a very antient Family.
On the other Side of the
Severn,
at
Whitley-court,
five Miles from
Bewdly,
and seven from
Worcester,
the Lord
Foley
has a Seat, situate in a large Park.
Worcester,
the
Branonium
of the
Romans,
seems to have been built by them to curb the
Silures
on the other Side of the
Severn,
and in Imitation of the
Roman
Name the
Britons
called it
Caer Wrangon.
It is situate in a Valley on the
Severn,
which tho' generally rapid elsewhere, glides on here very gently. It is a large, populous, antient, well-built City, and the best paved in
England.
The
Foregate-street
is the most regular and beautiful that can be seen out of
London.
The
Guild-hall
is a very fine Building; but the Statues on the Outside disgrace it.
There is a good old Stone Bridge over the
Severn,
which stands exceeding high from the Surface of the Water, and has a Tower upon it, said to be built by the
Romans.
But as the Stream of the
Severn
is contracted here by the Buildings on either Side, there is evident Occasion sometimes for the Height of the Bridge, the Waters rising to an incredible Degree in the Winter-time.
The Commandery here formerly belonging to
St. John's of Jerusalem,
is now possessed by Mr.
Wylde,
and is a fine old House of Timber, in the Form of a Court. The Hall, roof'd with
Irish
Oak, makes one Side of it, built for the Reception of Pilgrims. The Windows are adorn'd with Imagery, and Coats Armorial of stained Glass. It stands just without the South Gate of the City in the
London
Road, where the Heat of the famous Battle happen'd between King
Charles
II. and
Oliver Cromwell
; and they frequently find Bones of the Slain, on digging in the Garden. Above in the Park is to be seen a great Work of Four Bastions, called
the Royal Mount,
whence a
Vallum
and Ditch run both ways to incompass this Side of the City. Here, 'tis probable, the Storm began, when the Royalists were driven back into the City with great Slaughter, and the King escaped being made a Prisoner in the narrow Street at this Gate, by a loaded Cart of Hay purposely overthrown, which gave him time to retire at the opposite Gate to
Boscobel,
or
White Lady's.
A Mile and half above the South Gate, on the Top of the Hall, is the celebrated
Perrywood,
where
Cromwell
's Army lay, and which affords a fine Prospect over the County.
The Cathedral is an antient Building. The Body of the Church makes no extraordinary Appearance on the Outside. The Tower is low, without any Spire, only four very small Pinacles on the Corners; and yet it has some little Beauty in it, more than the Church itself. The upper Part has some Images in it, but decay'd by Time. In it is bury'd the restless King
John
; not where now his Monument stands, which is in the Choir, before the high Altar; but under a little Stone before the Altar of the Eastermost Wall of the Church. On each Side of him, on the Ground, lie the Effigies of the two Bishops, his chief Saints,
Wolston
and
Oswald,
from whose Neighbourhood he hoped to be safe. The Image of the King probably lay here also upon the Ground, now elevated upon a Tomb in the said Choir.
On the South Side of the High Altar is a large and handsome Stone Chapel over the Monument of Prince
Arthur,
eldest Son of
Henry
VII. who died at
Ludlow,
as his Tomb-stone specifies,
Anno
1502; and whose Relict
Catharine
Infanta of
Spain,
his Brother
Henry
VIII. marrying, after 20 Years Wedlock, was divorced from, to make way for
Anna Bolen.
The Choir of this Chapel is exquisite Workmanship; but suffered much in the late Civil Wars.
Here is also, among other noted Monuments, one for that famous Countess of
Salisbury,
who dancing before
Edward
III. in his great Hall at
Windsor,
dropt her Garter, which the King taking up, honoured it so much (as the idle Story goes) as to make it the denominating Ensign of
The most Noble Order of the Garter
; but this I have refuted under my Account of
Windsor.
Tho', that the Countess did drop her Garter, is Fact; and the King might gallantly, to silence the Jests and Railleries of the Court, wear it during the Entertainment, instead of his Garter of the Order. But the Motto was given in Allusion to the Order of Knighthood, and not of the Garter.
The Monument is very fine, and there is this remarkable in it; that there are several Angels cut in Stone about it, strewing Garters over the Tomb.
There are several other antient Monuments in this Church, which I have not Room to mention.
The Cloisters are very perfect, and the Chapter-house is large, supported, as to its arched Roof, by one umbilical Pillar. 'Tis now become a Library, is well furnish'd, and has many good antient MSS.
There is a large old Gatehouse standing, and near it the Castle with a very high artificial Mount or Keep, nigh the River.
The Bridge I have mention'd has six Arches, and the Banks of the
Severn
look very beautiful on each Side, being inriched with pleasant Meadows.
This City is governed by a Mayor and Aldermen. It has Two Chamberlains, a Recorder, a Town-clerk, Two Coroners, a Sword-bearer, Four Sergeants at Mace, and a Sheriff; being, like
Gloucester,
a County of itself, divided into Seven Wards, in which are Twelve Parish Churches.
The Inhabitants are generally esteem'd rich, being full of Business, occasion'd chiefly by the Cloathing-trade, of which the City and the Country round carries on a great Share, as well for the
Turkey
as the Home Trade. The Number of Hands, which it imploys in this Town and adjoin
ng Villages, in Spinning, Carding, Rowing, Fulling, Weaving,
&c.
is almost incredible. One Part of the Town is wholly possessed by
Welsh
People, who speak their own Language, and are imploy'd in this Manufacture. So that this City, which was formerly so great a Grievance to the great ones of that Principality, now administers Subsistence to a vast Number of the meaner ones.
It is adorn'd by a capacious and beautiful Structure, called
the Publick Workhouse
; in which Children of both Sexes are trained up to the Knowlege of Trade, and the Practice of Religion and Virtue; by whose Labour also the Aged and Decrepid are supported. This laudable Institution continued several Years to the great Benefit of the City, till at last the Guardians of it having contracted a Debt of upwards of 300
l.
they returned the Poor back to their respective Parishes; and the whole Charity being frustrated, and put an End to, the Corporation let out the Building for a Hop-market, Warehouses,
&c.
to pay the incurr'd Debt, either Principal or Interest.
Hereupon their worthy Representative
Samuel Sandys,
Esq
and other Gentlemen, procured an Act of Parliament for restoring it to its first laudable End; which Act took place from
June
1730, and will be a lasting Monument to the Honour of the disinterested and publick-spirited Gentleman, to whose unwearied Application, and inflexible Resolution, it was owing: for it must be observed, that alienated Charities are some of the hardest things in the World to be restored.
Opposite to this Workhouse,
Robert Berkley,
of
Spetchley,
Esq
erected a fine Hospital for Twelve poor Men, and gave 2000
l.
to build it, and 4000
l.
to endow it.
Here are besides Three Grammar-schools, and Seven Alms-houses, all liberally indow'd.
St. Nicolas
Church, in this City, has been lately rebuilt, and is a neat and commodious Edifice.
And the Church of
All-saints
in this Town being in so ruinous a Condition, that Part of it actually fell down; and the rest being ready to fall, an Act passed, Sess. 1737-8, for taking down and rebuilding the same.
From
Worcester
I made some Excursions, to visit the Towns and Country Northward; and first came to
Droitwych,
a corporate Bailiwick-town, which has Four Churches, and is pretty wealthy. 'Tis famous for excellent White Salt, which is made here from the Summer to the Winter Solstice; no
but they may make Salt all the Year long, but they fear to over-stock the Market. It appears, by
Doomsday-book,
they made Salt here before the Conquest. The Salt Springs are very good, and productive of Plenty of Brine; and the Town lies on the River
Salwarp.
Proceeding directly on, in the Road, we arrived at
Broomsgrove,
a large Bailiwick-town, likewise on the River
Salwarp,
where the Clothing-trade is pretty briskly carried on. It is the Centre of Four Roads; one leads to
Coventry,
and
Leicester
; another to
Warwick,
and so to
London
; a Third to
Worcester
; and the Fourth to
Shrewsbury.
Between
Worcester
and
Spetchley
was
St. Oswald
's Hospital, demolished in the Reign of Queen
Elizabeth.
But Dr.
Fell,
Bishop of
Oxford,
after the Restoration, recover'd much of the Possessions, and erected a fair and large Hospital, which comfortably maintains Twelve poor Men.
Kidderminster
is a Town in this County of
Worcester,
very considerable for its Woollen Trade, particularly the Weaving of what they call Lindsey-woolsey, in which the Inhabitants are almost wholly imploy'd. It is a large, but yet compact and populous Town, situated on the
Stour,
and govern'd by a Bailiff, Twelve Capital Burgesses, Twenty-five Common-council-men,
&c.
In its Church is a cross-legg'd Monument of Sir
Thomas Acton.
Stourbridge
is also situate upon the River
Stour,
over which it has a very good Bridge, whence its Name. This Town deals greatly in Glass Manufacture of all Sorts, and also in Iron Works of all Sorts; and is vastly improved of late Years, both in Houses and Inhabitants. At
Swinford,
near
Stourbridge,
is a noble Hospital for Sixty Boys, erected by the First Founder of the noble Family of
Foley,
which deserves the Attention of a Traveller, and the Praise of all Men. At
Stourbridge
also fine Stone Pots are made for Glass-makers to melt their Metal in, also Crucibles,
&c.
the Clay, of which these Things are made, being almost peculiar to the Place.
Birmingham
is a very populous Town, and full of Iron Manufactories, especially of the smaller Sorts; in which the Inhabitants so greatly excel, that their Works are carried to all Parts of the World in great Quantities. The Town is, of late Years, greatly improved and inlarged by many new Buildings both publick and private; particularly a new Church built by virtue of an Act of Parliament passed in the 7th of Queen
Anne,
which is dedicated to St.
Philip.
This Town is in
Warwickshire,
on the Borders of this County, situated on the Side of a Hill, and has a most plentiful Market.
A little below
Worcester,
Westward, the
Severn
receives a River of a long deep Course, which comes from
Shropshire,
called the
Teme,
on which stands a small Market-town called
Tenbury,
but of little Note. I passed this River formerly in my Way to
Ludlow,
at
Broadway,
a little Village; but now I went by the Way of
Bewdley,
on the Side of
Shropshire.
In this Course we saw Two fine Seats not very far from the
Severn, viz.
the Lord
Foley
's, and the Earl of
Bradford
's, as we did before a most delicious House, belonging to the Lord
Conway.
Indeed this Part of the County, and all the County of
Salop,
is filled with fine Seats of the Nobility and Gentry, which we have not Room to describe.
Bewdley
or
Beau-lieu,
i. e.
fine Place,
said to be so called from its pleasant and delightful Situation upon the Side of a Hill declining to the
Severn,
is a small Bailiff Market-town, well supplied with Corn, Malt, Leather, and Caps, which the
Dutch
Seamen buy, called
Monmouth Caps,
and noted for the Palace which King
Henry
VII. built here for his Son Prince
Arthur,
called
Tickenhall.
It had a very fine Park about it, which, with the House, was destroy'd by the furious Enthusiasts in the Civil War.
A Mile off is
Ribsford,
the Seat of Lord
Herbert
of
Cherbury,
pleasantly surrounded with Woods. Here is a good Picture of
William
the First Earl of
Pembroke.
The Ends of the Hills towards the River are generally Rocks: and
Blackston-hill
has an Hermitage cut out of it, with a Chapel, and several Apartments. Near it is a pretty Rock upon the Edge of the Water, covered with Oaks, and many curious Plants.
Not far from
Cherbury
Park is the Parish of
Roch,
where the famous
Augustine
's Oak stood, so called from a Conference held under it by
Augustine
and the
British
Bishops, about the Celebration of
Easter,
and preaching God's Word, and administring Baptism after the Rites of the Church of
Rome,
which the
British
Bishops refused.
I thought once to have returned to
Worcester,
and so proceeded to
Herefordshire,
and down to
Monmouth,
and so round the Coast of
Wales.
But being desirous to take in, first, the South Part of
Shropshire,
I followed the
Severn
up North, and came to
Bridgenorth,
a very antient and noted Town, said to be built by Queen
Aethelfleda,
in the Time of the Heptarchy: it consists of Two Towns, the High and the Low, which are separated by the
Severn,
but united by a fair Stone Bridge of Seven Arches, which hath a Gate and Gate-house. The Situation is pleasant, the Air healthy, the Prospect delightful and commodious for Trade. It hath been fortified with Walls and a Castle, which are now in Ruins; and the Area in the last is converted to a fine Bowling-green. The Streets are many, and well paved. It is governed by a Bailiff, Twenty-four Aldermen, and other inferior Officers. It is noted for good Gun-makers and its Stocken Manufacture. It has a well-replenished Market, and Five Fairs annually, Two whereof hold Three Days, which are much resorted to, and abound with Horses, Black Cattle, Sheep, Butter, Cheese, Bacon, Linen Cloth, and Hops, in great Plenty. Here are Two Churches, and tho' the Parishes are large, and the Town very populous, are very indifferently indowed, and so is the Free-school. There is a hollow Way cut thro' the Rock, leading from the high Town to the Bridge, of the Depth of 20 Feet, in some Parts of it, and likewise many Vaults and Dwellings are hewn out of the Rock.
From hence we advanced in the direct Road to
Shrewsbury,
and came to
Great Wenlock,
an antient incorporated Town, governed by a Bailiff and Burgesses; but noted for nothing extraordinary.
Leaving
Shrewsbury
for my Observation at my Return from
Wales
thro'
Cheshire,
we turn'd short here, and fell down Southward to
Ludlow,
famed more for its Beauty than Antiquity; for it seems, the Castle, which was so truly magnificent, was built by
Roger de Montgomery
in the
Conqueror
's Time.
But before I speak more of this Castle, I shall observe, that on the Extremity of this County, in a kind of Promontory, which runs in between
Montgomeryshire
and
Radnorshire,
upon the
Clun,
lies.
Bishops Castle,
a small Market Bailiwick Town; and not very far from it, just at the Entrance into
Montgomeryshire,
is a noted Place called
Bishops
ott
; where is an Acre of Ground surrounded with an Intrenchment. The
Clun
meets the
Teme
at
Ludlow,
and both, united, run to
Clebury,
a small Town on the Borders of
Worcestershire,
where it falls, as I mentioned before, into the
Severn.
The Castle of
Ludlow
shews plainly in its Decay, what it was in its flourishing Estate: it is the Palace of the Prince of
Wales,
in Right of his Principality.
Its Situation is indeed most beautiful; there is a most spacious Plain or Lawn in its Front, which formerly continued near Two Miles; but much of it is now inclosed. The Country round it is exceeding pleasant, fertile, populous, and the Soil rich; nothing can be added by Nature, to make it a Place fit for a Royal Palace. It is built in the North-west Angle of the Town upon a Rock, commanding a delightful Prospect Northward; and on the West is shaded by a lofty Hill, and washed by the River. The Battlements are of great Height and Thickness, with Towers at convenient Distances. That Half which is within the Walls of the Town, is secured with a deep Ditch; the other is founded on a solid Rock. A Chapel here has abundance of Coats of Arms upon the Panels, as has the Hall, together with Lances, Spears, Firelocks, and old Armour.
It will be no Wonder, that this noble Castle is in the very Perfection of Decay, when we acquaint our Readers, that the present Inhabitants live upon the Sale of the antient Materials. All the fine Courts, the Royal Apartments, Halls, and Rooms of State, lie open, abandon'd, and some of them falling down; for since the Courts of the President and Marches are taken away, here is nothing that requires the Attendance of any publick People; so that Time, the great Devourer of the Works of Men, begins to eat into the very Stone Walls, and to spread the Face of Ruin upon the whole Fabrick. Over several of the Stable-doors are the Arms of Queen
Elizabeth,
the Earls of
Pembroke,
&c.
The Town of
Ludlow
is likewise fortify'd with Walls, thro' which are Seven Gates. It is well-built, and a Place of good Trade; but, to be sure, it is not the better for the ruinous State of the Castle, and the abolishing of the Court held there for the Marches. It stands on the Edge of the two Counties,
Shropshire
and
Worcestershire,
but is itself in the first.
On the South-side of the Town runs the
Teme,
over which is a good Bridge. The River has several Dams across it, in the Nature of Cataracts, whereby abundance of Mills are turn'd; and great is the Roar of the superfluous Waters.
Ludlow
has a very good Church with an handsome Tower, and a pleasant Ring of Six Bells. The Windows are full of painted Glass pretty intire.
There are some old Monuments of the Lords Presidents,
&c.
and an Inscription upon the North Wall of the Choir, relating to Prince
Arthur,
elder Brother to King
Henry
VIII. who died here, and in this Spot his Bowels were deposited. It is said, That his Heart was taken up some time ago in a leaden Box.
In the Eastern Angle of the Choir is a Closet, antiently called
The Godhouse,
where the Priests secured their consecrated Utensils. The Window is strongly barred on the Outside. The Church is dedicated to St.
Laurence
: and in the Market-place is a Cistern or Conduit, on the Top of which is a long Stone Cross, bearing a Niche, in which is the Image of that Saint.
West of the Church was a College, now converted to a private House. There was a rich Priory out of the Town, on the North Side of which are but few Ruins to be seen, except a small Church, which formerly belonged to it. The
Welsh
call this Town
Lye Twysoy,
i. e. the
Prince's Court.
Mr.
Camden
calls the River
Teme
the
Tem'd,
and another River which joins it just at this Town, the
Corve,
whence the rich flat Country below the Town is call'd
Corvesdale.
It is governed by Two Bailiffs, Twelve Aldermen, a Recorder, Twenty-five Common-council-men, and other inferior Officers; and has the particular Privilege of trying and executing Criminals. It has an Alms-house for 30 poor People.
King
Henry
VIII. establish'd here the Court of the President and Council of the Marches, before-mentioned, and all Causes of
Nisi prius,
or of Civil Right, were try'd here, before the Lord President and Council; but this Court, being grown a great Grievance to the Publick, was intirely taken away by Act of Parliament, in the first Year of King
William
and Queen
Mary.
From
Ludlow,
we took our Course still due South to
Lemster,
or
Leominster,
a large Market-town on the River
Lug,
over which it hath several Bridges. 'Tis governed by a Bailiff. The Church, which is very large, has been in a manner rebuilt, and is now very beautiful. This Town is noted for its fine Wool, and the best Wheat, and consequently the finest Bread; and also for the best Barley, whence
Lemster Bread,
and
Weobly Ale,
are become a proverbial Saying.
It is a Town of brisk Trade in Wool, Hat-making, Leather,
&c.
and lies in a Valley exceedingly luxuriant. Three Rivers of a very swift Current go thro' the Town, besides others very near. The Inhabitants make great use of these by Mills, and other Machinery in the various Branches of their Trade. On the North-side of the Church was a considerable Priory, Two Ayles of which belong now to the Church, and Two others of more lightsome Work have been added. The Mayor has a long black Rod to walk with, tipt with Silver. There are some poor Remains of the Priory, chiefly a little Chapel, which probably belong'd to the Prior's Family. Underneath it runs a pretty Rivulet, which us'd to grind his Corn, now converted to a Fulling-mill. Near it are very large Ponds for Fish, which used to furnish the Monks on fasting Days. There was a fine Gate-house, pull'd down not long ago, near the
Ambry
or
Almery
Close, where they gave their Scraps away to the Poor.
Pembridge, Weobly,
and
Kyneton
lie South-west of
Lemster,
and form in their Situation a kind of Triangle. They are all Market-Towns, and the first is pretty considerable for the Cloathing Trade; the second for Ale; but the third for nothing that I know of.
The County on our right, as we came from
Ludlow,
is very fruitful and pleasant, and is called the Hundred of
Wigmore,
from which the Earl of
Oxford
takes the Title of Baron. Here we saw the two antient Castles of
Brampton Brian,
and
Wigmore,
both belonging to the late Earl's Grandfather, Sir
Edward Harley. Brampton
is a stately Pile, but not kept in full Repair. The Parks are fine, and full of large Timber.
We were now on the Borders of
Wales,
properly so called; for from the Windows of
Brampton-Castle,
you have a fair Prospect into the County of
Radnor,
which is, as it were, under its Walls; nay, even this whole County of
Hereford
was a Part of
Wales,
and so deem'd for many Ages. The People of this County too boast, that they were a Part of the antient
Silures,
who for so many Ages withstood the
Roman
Arms, and could never be intirely conquer'd. They are a diligent and laborious People, chiefly addicted to Husbandry; and they boast, that they have the finest Wool, the best Hops, and the richest Cyder in all
Britain
; and possibly with some Reason; for the Wool about
Leominster,
and in the Hundred of
Wigmore,
and the
Golden Vale,
as it is call'd for its Richness, on the Banks of the River
Dove,
(all in this County) is as fine as any in
England,
the
South-down
Wool not excepted. As for
Hops,
they plant abundance all over this County, and they are very good. And for
Cyder,
it is the common Drink of the County, and is so very good, and so cheap, that we never found fault, though we could get no other Drink for Twenty Miles together. Great Quantities of this Cyder are sent to
London,
even by Land-Carriage, though so very remote, which is an Evidence in its Favour beyond Contradiction.
One would hardly expect so pleasant and fruitful a Country as this, so near the barren Mountains of
Wales
; but 'tis certain, that not any of our Southern Counties, the Neighbourhood of
London
excepted, come up to the Fertility of this County.
From
Lemster
it is Ten Miles to
Hereford,
the chief City, not of this County only, but of all the Counties West of the
Severn.
In the time of the late Civil Wars it was very strong, and being well fortify'd, and as well defended, supported a tedious and very severe Siege; for besides the Parliament's Forces, who could never reduce it, the
Scots
Army was call'd to the Work, who lay before it, till they laid above 4000 of their Bones there, and at last it was rather surrendered by the fatal Issue of the War, than by the Attack of the Besiegers.
It had before this Six Parish-churches; but Two of them were demolish'd at that time. It has an Hospital liberally endow'd for 12 poor People.
The City of
Hereford
probably sprung from the Ruins of the
Roman Ariconium,
now
Kenchester,
three Miles off, higher up the River
Wye,
but not very near it, which may be a Reason for its Decay.
Kenchester
stands upon a little Brook, call'd the
Ine,
which thence encompassing the Walls of
Hereford,
falls into the
Wye.
Archenfield
seems to retain the Name of
Ariconium.
Nothing remains of its Splendor, but a Piece of a Temple, probably, with a Nich which is Five Feet high, and Three broad within, built of Brick, Stone, and indissoluble Mortar. There are many large Foundations near it. A very fine
Mosaick
Floor, a few Years ago, was found intire, which was soon torn to Pieces by the ignorant Country-people. A Bath was here found by Sir
John Hoskyns
about Seven Feet square, the Pipes of Lead intire: those of Brick were a Foot long, Three Inches square, let artificially into one another; over these, I suppose, was a Pavement.
This, as Dr.
Stukeley
observes, is an excellent Invention for heating a Room, and might well be introduced among us in Winter-time.
In another Place is a Hollow, where burnt Wheat has been taken up. All around the City you may easily trace the Walls, some Stones being left everywhere, tho' over-grown by Hedges and Timbertrees. The Situation of the Place is a gentle Eminence of a squarish Form; the Earth black and rich, overgrown with Brambles, Oak-trees, full of Stones, Foundations, and Cavities, where they have been digging, and found many Coins,
&c.
Colonel
Dantsey
has pav'd a Cellar with square Bricks dug up here. The Earl of
Coningsby
has adorn'd the Floor of his Evidence-room with them.
This City is overlook'd and shelter'd towards the North with a prodigious Mountain of steep Ascent; on the Top stands a vast Camp, with Works altogeter inaccessible, which is call'd
Credon-hill.
At the Summit, you are presented with the most glorious and extensive Prospect, as far as
St. Michael's Mount,
in
Monmouthshire
; crown'd with Two Tops, and of considerable Resort among Zealots of the
Romish
Persuasion, who believe this holy Hill was sent hither by St.
Patrick
out of
Ireland,
and that it works Wonders in several Cases.
On the other side, is the vast Black Mountain, which separates
Brecknockshire
from this County. The Town underneath appears like a little Copse.
Dinder-hill,
whereon is a
Roman
Camp, stands on the contrary Bank of the
Wye.
And upon the
Lug
are
Sutton-walls,
another vast
Roman
Camp upon a Hill overlooking a beautiful Vale, which was the regal Residence of the powerful King
Offa
; but chiefly remarkable for the Murder of young King
Ethelbert,
whom he allur'd thither under Pretext of courting his Daughter, and who was buried in the neighbouring Church of
Marden,
situate in a Marsh by the River-side. Hence his Body was afterwards convey'd to
Hereford,
and enshrin'd; but the particular Place cannot be found.
In the North Wing of the Cathedral of
Hereford,
is the Shrine, where the Body of
Cantilupe,
the great Miracle-monger in the West of
England,
was deposited; which Wing was built by himself, and on the Wall his Picture is painted. All round are the Marks of Hooks, where the Banners, Lamps, Reliques, and the like Presents were hung up. And the Riches of this Place were doubtless very considerable; for it is well guarded against the Assaults of Thieves. The Shrine is of Stone, carv'd round with Knights in Armour.
The Church is very old and stately. The Spire is not high, but handsome, and there is a fine Tower at the West End. The Roof, Ayles, and Chapel, have been added to the more antient Part by successive Bishops, as also the Towers, Cloisters,
&c.
The Choir, tho' plain, is handsome, and there is a very good Organ.
The Chapter-house, which was very beautiful, was destroy'd in the Civil Wars. About Four Windows are left standing; and the Springing of the Stone Arches between, are of fine Ribwork, which compos'd the Roof, of that Sort of Architecture, wherewith
King's-college-chapel
was built. Two Windows were pull'd down by Bishop
Bisse,
which he us'd in new fitting up the Episcopal Palace. Under the Windows, in every Compartiment, was painted a King, Bishop, Saint, Virgin, or the like; some of which were distinct enough, tho' so long expos'd to the Weather.
Here are a great Number of Monuments of Bishops, and many valuable Brasses and Tombs.
Between the Cathedral and Palace, is a most venerable Pile, built and roof'd with Stone, consisting of Two Chapels, one above the other; the upper dedicated to St.
Magdalen
; the lower, which is some Steps under-ground, to St.
Catharine.
The Castle was a noble Work, built by one of the
Edwards
before the Conquest, strongly wall'd and ditch'd. There is a very lofty artificial Keep, having a Well fac'd with good Stone: and by the Side of the Ditch a Spring consecrated to St.
Ethelbert,
with an old Stone Arch.
Without the Walls are the Ruins of
Black-Friers
Monastery, and a pretty Stone Cross intire; round which the Cloisters were originally built, as now the Cloisters of the Cathedral inclose another such. These Crosses were in the nature of a Pulpit, whence a Monk preach'd to the People in the open Air, as now practis'd in the Cloisters of some Colleges in the Universities once a Year.
The neighbouring Hill, call'd
Dynmaur,
or
The great Hill,
makes amends for the Tediousness of climbing it, by the Pleasure we receive from its woody Crest, and extensive Prospect.
At the City of
Hereford,
we could not but inquire into the Truth of the Story so famous, that the Right Reverend Bishop
Gibson
has mention'd it in his Continuation of
Camden,
of the removing the Two great Stones near
Sutton
; which the People confirm'd to us. The Story is thus:
Between
Sutton
and
Hereford,
in a common Meadow call'd the
Wergins,
were plac'd Two large Stones for a Water-mark; one erected upright, and the other laid athwart. In the late Civil Wars, about the Year 1652, they remov'd to about twelvescore Paces Distance, and nobody knew how; which gave occasion to a vulgar Notion, That they were carried thither by the Devil. When they were set in their Places again, one of them requir'd nine Yoke of Oxen to draw it.
Lidbury
lies Eastward of
Hereford,
near the South End of the
Malvern
Hills. It is a fine, well-built Market-town, situate in rich clayey Grounds, and much inhabited by Clothiers. Here is an Hospital for the Poor, well indowed.
Not far from
Lidbury,
is
Colwal
; near which, upon the Waste, as a Countryman was digging a Ditch about his Cottage, he found a Crown or a Coronet of Gold, with Gems set deep in it. It was of a Size large enough to be drawn over the Arm with the Sleeve. The Stones of it are said to have been so valuable, as to be sold by a Jeweller for One thousand Five hundred Pounds.
Hereford,
tho' a large and populous City, may yet be said to be old, mean-built, and very dirty, lying low, and on the Bank of the
Wye,
which sometimes incommodes them very much, by the violent Freshes that come down from the Mountains of
Wales
; for all the Rivers of this County, except the
Diffrin-Doe,
come out of
Wales.
One thing remarkable, which we must not omit, is, that the College still retains its Foundation Laws, and the Residentiaries are oblig'd to Celibacy; but otherwise, they live a very happy, easy, and plentiful Life; being furnish'd upon the Foot of the Foundation, besides their Ecclesiastical Stipends.
In the Beginning of the Year 1738, they began to pull down the old
Gothick
Chapel belonging to the Bishop's Palace at
Hereford,
in order to erect a Pile in a politer Taste, for the publick Service. The demolish'd Chapel was said to be as old as the Conquest.
Between
Leominster
and this City, is another
Hampton-Court,
the Seat of the late Earl of
Coningsby.
That Lord was, from an
Irish
Peer, made an
English
one, by his late Majesty King
George
I. And having no Son, his Daughter was created by the same Prince in the Life-time of her Father, Baroness and Viscountess
Coningsby
of
Hampton-Court,
in order that her Descendants might be intitled to a Peerage. She marry'd Sir
Michael Newton,
Bart. and Knight of the
Bath.
This is a fine Seat built by
Henry Bolinbroke
Duke of
Lancaster,
afterwards King
Henry
IV. in the Form of a Castle, situate in a Valley upon a rapid River, under Coverture of
Dynmaur.
The Gardens are very pleasant, terminated by vast Woods covering all the sloping Side of the Hill. There is a plentiful Supply of Water, on all Sides of the House, for Fountains, Basins, and Canals. Within, are excellent Pictures of the Earl's Ancestors and others, by
Holben, Dobson, Vandyke,
Sir
P. Lully,
&c. an Original of the Founder King
Henry
IV. of Queen
Elizabeth,
the Duchess of
Portsmouth,
&c.
The Windows of the Chapel are well painted: there are some Statues of the
Coningsbies.
Here are two new Stone Stair-cases, after a Geometrical Method. The Record-room is at-top of a Tower arch'd with Stone, pav'd with
Roman
Brick, and has an Iron Door. From the Top of the House goes a Stair-case, which, they say, has a subterraneous Conveyance into
Dynmaur
Wood.
The Park is very fine, Eight Miles in Circumference, and contains about 1200 Head of Deer. There are extensive Prospects on one Side reaching into
Wiltshire,
on the other over the
Welsh
Mountains; Lawns, Groves, Canals, Hills and Plains. There is a Pool Three Quarters of a Mile long, very broad, and included between Two great Woods. The Dam, which forms it, and is made over a Valley, cost, 800
l.
and was finish'd in a Fortnight by 200 Hands. A new River is cut quite thro' the Park, the Chanel of which, for a long way together, is hewn out of the Rock. This serves to inrich vast Tracts of Lands, which before were barren. Here also are new Gardens and Canals laid out, and new Plantations of Timber in proper Places.
Warrens, Decoys, Sheepwalks, Pastures for Cattle,
&c.
supply the House with all Sorts of Conveniencies and Necessaries, without having recourse to a Market.
Westward of
Hereford
the
Golden Vale
before-mentioned, extends itself along the River
Dore,
which runs thro' the midst of it, and is call'd by the
Britons, Duffrin Dore:
it is call'd the
Golden Vale,
from its pleasant Fertility in the Spring, when it is cover'd over with a yellow Livery of Flowers. It is encompassed with Hills, which are crown'd with Woods.
From
Hereford,
keeping the Bank of
Wye
as near as we could, we came to
Ross,
a good old Town, famous for Cyder, a great Manufacture of Iron-ware, and its Trade on the River
Wye.
From hence we came at about Eight Miles more into
Monmouthshire,
formerly a
Welsh,
but now an
English
County, and to the Town of
Monmouth.
It is a Place of great Antiquity, and is fair, large, and well-built, situate at the Conflux of the
Wye
and
Munnow,
whence the Town has its Name; it stands in the Angle where the Rivers join, and has a Bridge over each River, and a third over the River
Trothy,
which comes in just below the other.
This Town shews Marks of great Antiquity, and, by the Remains of Walls, Lines, Curtains, and Bastions, that it has been very strong, and, by its Situation, that it may be made so again. It is a Borough-town, govern'd by Two Bailiffs, Common-councilmen, and Town-clerk. It has a very considerable Corn-market. It was famed for the Strength of the Castle in the Time of
William
I.; and is the Birth-place of our renown'd King
Henry
V. Conqueror of
France
; and likewise of one of our antient Historians,
Jeoffry
of
Monmouth,
a fabulous Writer. At present 'tis not very flourishing; yet it drives a considerable Trade with the City of
Bristol,
by the Navigation of the
Wye.
This River having receiv'd Two large Streams, the
Munnow,
and the
Trother,
becomes a very noble River; and with a deep Chanel, and a full Current, hurries away towards the Sea, carrying also Vessels of a considerable Burden hereabouts.
Near
Monmouth,
the Duke of
Beaufort
has a fine Seat, call'd
Troy-house.
Lower down, upon the
Wye
in this Shire, stands
Chepstow,
the Sea-port for all the Towns seated on this River and the
Lug,
and where their Commerce seems to centre. Hither Ships of good Burden may come up, and the Tide runs with the same impetuous Current as at
Bristol
; the Flood rising ordinarily from Six Fathom, to Six and a half at
Chepstow
Bridge, which is a noble one indeed, built of Timber, and no less than 70 Feet high from the Surface of the Water, when the Tide is out. And that this was not a needless Height, was evident in
January
1738, when the Water rose at the Bridge upwards of 70 Feet, and very much damag'd it: one Man lost above 130 Head of Cattle, which, with other Damages it did there, and in the adjacent Places, were computed at 7 or 8000
l. Chepstow
has a well frequented Market, especially for Corn. The Bridge, as half of it is in
Gloucestershire,
is maintained at the Expence of both Counties.
Two Miles from this Town is the famous Passage over the
Severn,
on this Side call'd
Bleachly,
and on the other
Aust,
as I have mention'd before. Here
Offa's Dyke
begins, and passing through
Radnorshire,
extends itself up to
Flintshire,
and so to the River
Dee,
which parts
Wales
from
Cheshire.
We turn'd Northwards, and arrived at
Abergavenny,
which is a large well-built and well-inhabited Market-town, situate at the Mouth of the
Gavenny
running into the
Usk.
It carries on a considerable Trade in Flanels, which the Country People manufacture at home, and bring hither to sell. It is a great Thorough-fare from the Western Parts of
Wales
to
Bristol
and
Bath
by
Chepstow,
and to
Gloucester
by
Monmouth
; and so crossing the River thro'
Colford
and the Forest of
Dean.
The Fuel in this County is Pit-coal, and is very cheap, insomuch that they sell a Horse-load for Two-pence, at the Pit-mouth; and 'tis common, in the meanest Cot to see a good Fire.
Great Quantities of Corn are exported out of this County; and 'tis frequent, that the
Bristol
Merchants send their Ships hither to load for
Portugal,
and other foreign Countries. And indeed it is noted for producing as good Wheat and other Grain, as any County in the Kingdom; and yet it is very surpriseing, that Lands here never sell for more than 20 or 21 Years Purchace. The current Language of the County is
Welsh
among the Vulgar, but the Gentlemen speak
English
generally.
As I am now just upon entering
Wales,
I will conclude this Letter with assuring you, that I am,
SIR,
Yours, &c.
LETTER VI. CONTAINING A Description of the greatest Part of the Principality of
Wales.
SIR,
I Thought I should not pay the Principality the Respect it so well deserves, if I did not begin a Letter with the Description of it; it being the Country of that brave People, who had an original Right to the whole Island, and made so noble a Stand in Defence of their Liberties and Independency; and at last, rather than submit to a foreign Yoke, chose to be free in this remote and inaccessible Part of it.
The two first Counties which border West upon
Monmouthshire,
are
Brecknock
and
Glamorgan,
and are very mountainous on the East Side, which gives a Traveller a terrible Apprehension of the Country he is this way entering into, and an Expectation of meeting with nothing that is agreeable; but he is not long before he is undeceived, and finds the Reward of his Trouble. In that Part of
Monmouthshire
which joins the Two Counties, begins the rising of the Hills.
Kyrton-Beacon, Tumberlow, Blorench, Penvail,
and
Skirridan,
are some of the Names of these horrid Mountains, and are all in this Shire; and I could not but fansy myself in View of
Mount Brennus, Little-Barnard,
and
Great-Barnard,
among the
Alps.
We now entered
South Wales
; which contains the Shires of
Glamorgan, Brecknock, Radnor, Caermarthen, Pembroke,
and
Cardigan.
Brecknockshire
is a mere inland County, as
Radnor
is; the
English
jestingly (and I think not very improperly) call it
Break-neck-shire:
'tis mountainous to an Extremity, except on the Side of
Radnor,
where it is something more low and level. It is well watered by the
Wye,
and the
Uske,
two Rivers mention'd before. Upon the latter stands the Town of
Brecknock,
the Capital of the County, well-built, and the Assizes are kept at it. It is very antient, and indeed, to mention it here once for all, there are more Tokens of Antiquity to be seen every-where in
Wales,
than in any particular Part of
England,
except the Counties of
Cumberland
and
Northumberland.
Here we saw
Brecknock-mere,
a large or long Lake of Water, Two or Three Miles over; of which they have a great many Fables, not worth relating: the best of them is, that a certain River, call'd the
Lheweni,
runs thro' it, and keeps its Colour in Midchanel, distinguish'd from the Water of the Lake, and, as they say, never mingles with it. They take abundance of good Fish in this Lake, so that, like the River
Theisse,
in
Hungary,
they say it is Two-thirds Water, and One-third Fish. The Country People affirm, that once a City stood here, but, that by the Judgment of Heaven, for the Sins of its Inhabitants, it sunk into the Earth, and the Water rose up in the Place of it. I observe the same Story is mention'd by Mr.
Camden,
with some Difference in the Particulars: I believe my Share of it, but 'tis remarkable, that Mr.
Camden,
having lost the old City
Loventium,
mention'd by
Ptolemy
to be hereabouts, is willing to account for it by this odd Story.
It was among the Mountains of this County that the famous
Glendower
shelter'd himself, and taking Arms on the deposing
Richard
II. proclaimed himself Prince of
Wales
; they shew us several little Refuges of his in the Mountains, whither he retreated; and from whence, again, he made such bold Excursions into
England,
as to have put
Henry
IV. to very great Difficulties.
Tho' this County be so mountainous, Provisions are exceeding plentiful, and also very good all over the Country; nor are these Mountains useless, even to the City of
London,
as I have noted of other Counties; for from hence they send yearly great Herds of Black Cattle to
England,
and which are known to fill our Fairs and Markets, even that of
Smithfield
itself.
The yellow Mountains of
Radnorshire
are the same, and their Product of Cattle is the same; nor did I meet with any thing worth noticing, except Monuments of Antiquity. The Stories of
Vortigern,
and
Roger
of
Mortimer,
are in every old Woman's Mouth here. There is here a great Cataract or Water-fall of the River
Wye,
at a Place call'd
Rhajadr Gwy
in
Welsh,
which signifies the Cataract or Water-fall of the
Wye
; but we did not go to see it, by reason there was a great Flood out at that time, which made the Way dangerous. There seemed to us a kind of Desart too, on that Side, which is scarce passable by Strangers; so we made it our North Boundary for this Part of our Journey.
We shall only add; That
Radnor
is the Shire Town, and hath a Castle; that
Presteigne
in
Radnorshire
is a well-built Town, and the Assizes are held there.
Entering
Glamorganshire,
from
Radnor
and
Brecknock,
we beheld
Monuchdenny-hill
on our Left, and the
Black Mountains
on the Right, and all a Ridge of horrid Rocks and Precipices between, over which, if we had not had good Guides, we should never have found our Way; and indeed, we began to repent our Curiosity, in going out of the common Road, as not having met with any thing worth the Trouble; and the Country looking so full of Horror, we thought to have given over the Enterprize, and have left
Wales
out of our Circuit: But after a Day and a Night engaging thus with Rocks and Mountains, our Guide brought us down into a most agreeable Vale, opening to the South, and a pleasant River running through it, call'd the
Taaffe
; and following its Course, we came in the Evening to the antient City of
Landaff,
and Town of
Caerdiff,
standing almost together.
Landaff
in
Glamorganshire,
is the Seat of the Episcopal See, and a City; but so small, that it has not a Market; but
Caerdiff,
which is lower on the River, is the Port and Town of Trade; and has a very good Harbour opening into the
Severn
Sea, about four Miles below the Town.
The Cathedral is a neat Building, and very antient; they boast that this Church was a House of Religious Worship many Years before any other was founded in the Island, and that the Christian Religion flourish'd in its primitive Purity, from the Year 186, till the
Pelagian
Heresy overspread this Country; which being afterwards rooted out, they plac'd St.
Dobricius,
as the first Bishop, in this Town of
Landaff,
then call'd
Launt
n:
The Bishop of
Landaff
had formerly the Title of Archbishop; the three first Bishops were afterwards sainted for their eminent Holiness of Life, and the Miracles they are said to have wrought. 'Tis observable the Cathedral was antiently but 20 Foot long, and 10 broad, and had neither Steeple nor Bells, nor had they any other Cathedral from the Year 386, to the Year 1107, when Bishop
Urban
built the present Church, with some Houses for the Clergy adjoining, in the Nature of a Cloister.
Tho' the Church is antient, yet the Building is good, and the Choir neat, and pretty well kept.
The South Part of
Glamorganshire
is pleasant, agreeable, and very populous, insomuch that it is called
The Garden of Wales.
Its Soil is fertile and rich, and the low Grounds are so well cover'd with Grass, and stock'd with Cattle, that they supply the City of
Bristol
with Butter in very great Quantities salted and barrel'd up, just as
Suffolk
does the City of
London.
Caerphyli-Castle
in
Glamorganshire,
is one of the noblest Pieces of Ruins in the whole Island. It was larger than any Castle in
England,
that of
Windsor
excepted; and from what remains of it, was as beautiful in its Architecture, as it is remarkable in its Ruins.
Neath
is a Port where the Coal-Trade is pretty considerable, tho' it stands up within Land.
Swanzy
is also a Sea-port, and a very considerable Town for Trade, with a very good Harbour: Here is also a very great Trade for Coals, and Culm, which they export to all the Ports of
Somerset, Devon,
and
Cornwall,
and even to
Ireland
; so that sometimes may be seen a hundred Sail of Ships at a time loading Coals here; which greatly enriches the Country, and particularly this Town; it stands on the River
Twye,
or
Taw:
'Tis very remarkable, that most of the Rivers in this County chime upon the Letters
T
and
Y,
as
Taaf, Tawy, Tuy, Towy, Tyevy.
There are lately Mineral Waters found out at
Swanzy,
which are reported to be of great Efficacy in Fluxes and Haemorrhages of all Sorts. Consumptions, if not too far gone, Diabetes, Palsies, Rheumatisms, Dropsies, and other Distempers, are said to fall before these Styptick and Restorative Waters. They may certainly have very good Effects in many difficult Cases; but it is doing an Injury to the Reputation of any Medicine in the World, to make it a
Catholicon,
and good for every thing.
Kynfig-Castle,
is now the Seat and Estate of the Lord
Mansel,
who has here also a very noble Income from the Collieries; which formerly denominated Sir
Edward Mansel,
one of the richest Commoners in
Wales.
The Family was innobled by her late Majesty Queen
Anne.
In this Neighbourhood, near
Margan Mynydd,
we saw the famous Monument mention'd by Mr.
Camden,
on a Hill, with the Inscription, which the Vulgar are so terrify'd at, that nobody cares to read it; for they have a Tradition from Father to Son, that whoever ventures to read it, will die within a Month. We did not scruple the Adventure, but when we came to try, the Letters were so defac'd by Time, that we were effectually secur'd from the Danger; the Inscription not being any thing near so legible, as it seems it was in Mr.
Camden
's time.
The Stone Pillar is about 4 or 5 Feet high, and one Foot thick, standing on the Top of this Hill; there are several other such Monuments in
Radnorshire,
and other Counties in
Wales,
as likewise in
Scotland.
Having thus touch'd on what is most curious on this Coast, we pass'd thro' the Land of
Gowre
; and going still
West,
we came to
Caermarthen,
or
Kaer-Vyrdhin,
as the
Welsh
call it, the Capital of the County of
Kaermardhinshire.
This is an antient and a very handsome Town, pleasantly situated on the River
Towy,
which is navigable up to the Town, for Vessels of a moderate Burden, and over which is a large Bridge. The Town is well-built, and populous; it is lately much increas'd, and is still increasing; and the County round it is the most fruitful of any Part of
Wales,
and continues to be so thro' all the Middle of the County, and a great Way into the next; nor is this County so mountainous and wild, as the rest of this Part of
Wales:
But it abounds in Corn, and in fine flourishing Meadows, as good as most are in
Britain,
and in which are fed a very great Number of good Cattle.
The
Chancery,
and
Exchequer,
for the South Part of the Principality, were usually kept at this Town, till the Jurisdiction of the Court and Marches of
Wales
was taken away. This Town was also famous for the Birth of the old
British
Prophet,
Merlin,
of whom so many things are fabled, and who flourish'd in the Year 480: And here also the old
Britons
often kept their Parliaments, or Assemblies of their wise Men, and made their Laws. The Town was fortify'd in former times, but the Walls are not to be seen now, and scarcely the Ruins of them. The People in this Town and Country are reckon'd the wealthiest and politest in
Wales.
Here we saw near
Kily-Maen Llwyd,
on a great Mountain, a Circle of mighty Stones, very much like
Stone-henge
in
Wiltshire,
or rather like the
Roll-rich
Stones in
Oxfordshire
; and tho' the People call it
Bruarth Arthur,
or King
Arthur's Throne,
we see no reason to believe, that it had any relation to him.
The next County West, is
Pembrokeshire,
the most extreme Part of
Wales
on this Side. It is a rich, fertile, and plentiful Country, lying on the Sea-coast, where it has the Benefit of
Milford-Haven,
one of the greatest and best Ports in
Britain.
Mr.
Camden
says, it contains 16 Creeks, 5 great Bays, and 13 good Roads for Shipping, all distinguish'd as such by their Names; and some say, a thousand Sail of Ships may ride in it.
Part of
Pembrokeshire
is inhabited by the Descendants of the
Flemings,
placed there by King
Henry
I. and that County is called,
Little England beyond Wales.
Before we quitted the Coast, we saw
Tenbigk,
the most agreeable Town on all the Sea-coast of
South-Wales,
except
Pembroke,
being a very good Road for Shipping, and well frequented. Here is a great Fishery for Herring in its Season, a great Colliery, or rather Export of Coals, and they also drive a very considerable Trade to
Ireland.
From hence, the Land, bearing far into the Sea, makes a Promontory, call'd St.
Goven's-Head,
or
Point.
But as we found nothing of Moment there, we cross'd over the Isthmus to
Pembroke,
which stands on the East Shore of the great Haven of
Milford.
This is the largest and richest, and at this Time the most flourishing Town of
South-Wales,
except
Carmarthen.
Here are a great many Gentlemen and Merchants, and some of the latter are Men of good Business; and they told us, there were near 200 Sail of Ships belong'd to the Town, small and great; in a Word, all this Part of
Wales
is a rich and flourishing Country, very pleasant, fertile, and well cultivated.
This is the Place also made particularly famous for the Landing of King
Henry
VII. then Earl of
Richmond.
From hence, being resolv'd to see the utmost Extent of the County, West, we ferry'd over the Haven, and went to
Haverford,
by some call'd
Haverford-West,
a County in itself; and from thence to St.
David
's.
Haverford
is a good Town, strong, well-built, clean, and populous.
From hence to St.
David
's, the Country begins to look dry, barren, and mountainous.
St.
David
's is now a Bishop's See only, but was formerly an Archbishop's, which was transferr'd to
Dole
in
Britany,
where it still remains.
The venerable Aspect of this Cathedral Church shews, that it has been a beautiful Building. The West-end or Body of the Church is tolerable; the Choir is kept neat; the South Isle without the Choir, and the Virgin
Mary
's Chapel, which makes the Eastend of the Church, are in a manner demolish'd, and the Roofs of both fallen in.
There have been a great many eminent Persons bury'd here, besides such whose Monuments are defac'd by Time. Here is St.
David
's Monument, to whom the Church is dedicated, the Monument of the Earl of
Richmond,
as also of the famous
Owen Tudor
; Here are also four antient Monuments of Knights-Templars, known by their Figures lying cross-legg'd; but their Names are not known, and there are six several Monuments of Bishops, who presided over this Church, besides St.
David.
This Saint, they tell us, was Uncle to King
Arthur,
that he lived to 146 Years of Age, that he was Bishop of this Church sixty-five Years, being born in the Year 496, and died
Anno
642; that he built twelve Monasteries, and perform'd abundance of Miracles.
There was a very handsome House for the Bishop, with a College, all built in a Close by themselves; but they are now in Ruins.
Here, the Weather being very clear, we had a full View of
Ireland,
though at a very great Distance. The Land here is call'd St.
David's-Head.
They reckon up 114 Bishops of this See, since it began, to the Year 1740.
A late Bishop of this See was Dr.
Thomas Watson,
of whom the World has heard so much, being depriv'd, after a long Debate, on a Charge of
Simony.
I shall not inquire into the Merits of the Case; but he bestow'd great Sums on charitable Designs.
From hence we turn'd North, keeping the Sea in our West Prospect, and a rugged mountainous Country on the East, where the Hills even darken'd the Air with their Height. As we went on, we past by
Newport,
on the River
Nevern,
a Town having a good Harbour, and consequently a good Trade with
Ireland.
Here we left
Pembrokeshire,
and after about 22 Miles came to
Cardigan,
a well-inhabited Town, on the River
Tyvy,
over which it has a fair Stone Bridge: 'Tis a very noble River indeed, and famous for its Plenty of the best and largest Salmon in
Britain.
The Country People told us, that they had formerly Beavers here, which bred in the Lakes among the Mountains, and coming down the Stream of
Tyvy,
destroy'd the young Frye of Salmon, and therefore the Country People destroy'd 'em. We thought they only meant the Otter, till I found afterwards, that Mr.
Camden
mentions also, that there had been Beavers seen here formerly.
This Town of
Cardigan
was once possess'd by the great
Robert Fitz-Stephen,
who was the first
Briton
that ever attempted the Conquest of
Ireland
; and had such Success with a Handful of Men, as afterwards gave the
English
a Footing there, which they never quitted afterwards, till they quite reduc'd the Country, and made it, as it were, a Province to
England.
The Town is large and populous, has a fair Church, and is walled about, and fortified with a Castle, but that Part is now not much minded. It has a good Trade with
Ireland,
and is enrich'd very much, as is all this Part of the Country, by the famous Lead Mines, formerly discover'd by Sir
Carbery Price,
which are the greatest, and perhaps the richest in
England
; and particularly as they require so little Labour and Charge to come at the Ore, which in many Places lies within a Fathom or two of the Surface, and in some, even bare to the very Top. There are also Silver Mines in this County.
Going North from the
Tyvy
about 25 Miles, we came to
Aberystwith,
that is to say, the Town at the Mouth of the River
Ystwith.
It is a populous, but a dark, smoaky Place; and we fansy'd the People look'd as if they had liv'd continually in Coal or Lead Mines. However, they are rich.
The County of
Cardigan
is in no wise comparable to either of those
Welsh
Counties which we have already pass'd through, there being a great deal of barren Lands in it. However, it is so full of Cattle, that 'tis said to be the Nursery, or Breeding-Place for the whole Kingdom of
England,
South by
Trent
; but this is not a Proof of its Fertility; for tho' the feeding of Cattle indeed requires a rich Soil, the breeding them does not, the Mountains and Moors being as proper for that Purpose as richer Land.
Now we enter'd
North-Wales
; only I should add, that as we pass'd, we had a Sight of the famous
Plymlymon-Hill,
out of the East-side of which, rise the
Severn,
and the
Wye
; and out of the West-side of it, rise the
Rydall
and the
Ystwyth.
This Mountain is exceeding high, and though it is hard to say which is the highest Hill in
Wales,
yet I think this bids fair for it; nor is the County, for 20 Miles round it, any thing but a continued Ridge of Mountains: So that for a few Days we seem'd to be conversing in the upper Regions; for we were often above the Clouds a great way, and the Names of some of these Hills seem'd as barbarous to us, who spoke no
Welsh,
as the Hills themselves.
Passing these Mountains North, we enter'd North
Wales,
which contains the Counties of
Montgomery, Merioneth, Caernarvon, Denbeigh,
and
Flint
Shires, and the Isle of
Anglesea.
In passing
Montgomeryshire,
we were so tired with Hills and Mountains, that we wish'd heartily we had kept close to the Sea Shore; but we had not much mended the matter, if we had, as I understood afterwards. The River
Severn
is the principal Beauty of this County, which rising out of the
Plymlymon
Mountain, as I have said, receives in a short Course so many other Rivers into its Bosom, that it becomes navigable before it gets out of the County, at
Welsh-Pool,
on the Edge of
Shropshire.
Montgomery
is a fashionable Place, and has many fair Dwellings in it, and some very good Families.
The Vales and Meadows upon the Banks of the
Severn
are exceedingly ornamental and profitable, and 'tis said, that the Water of the
Severn,
like that of
Nile,
when it overflows, impregnates the Valleys by the Slime it leaves behind it; all the Country is very fruitful, where-ever this River runs. The Town of
Montgomery
lies not far from this River, on the outer Edge of the County, next to
Herefordshire.
This was, it seems, a great Frontier Town in the Wars between the
English
and the
Welsh,
and was beautify'd and fortify'd by King
Henry
III. but it is not now so very considerable, though a good Town still, pleasantly situated, and has a Castle.
This County has been long noted for an excellent Breed of
Welsh
Horses, which, though not very large, are exceeding valuable, and much esteem'd all over
England.
All the North and West Part of the County is mountainous and stony. We saw a great many old Monuments in this Country, and
Roman
Camps, where-ever we came; and especially, if we met any Persons curious in such things, we found they had many
Roman
Coins.
Merionethshire,
or
Merionydshire,
lies West from
Montgomeryshire,
on the
Irish
Sea, or rather the Ocean; for St.
George's Chanel
does not begin till further North; and it is extended on the Coast, for near 35 Miles in Length, all still mountainous and craggy. The principal River is the
Tovy,
which rises among the unpassable Mountains, which range along the Centre of this Part of
Wales,
and which we look at with Astonishment, for their prodigious Height. Some of the Hills have particular Names, but otherwise we called them all,
The Black Mountains,
and they well deserve the Name. Some think 'tis from the unpassable Mountains of this County, that we have an old Saying, That the Devil lives in the
Middle of Wales,
tho' I know there is another Meaning given to it; in a word, Mr.
Camden
calls these Parts the
Alps of Wales.
There are but few large Towns in all this Part, nor is it very populous; much of it being scarce habitable, but 'tis said, there are more Sheep in it, than in all the rest of
Wales.
On the Sea Shore however, we saw
Harleigh,
or
Harlech-Castle,
which is still a Garison, and kept for the Guard of the Coast; but 'tis of no other Strength, than what its Situation gives it.
In the middle of these vast Mountains (and forming a very large Lake,
viz.
near its first Sources) rises the River
Dee,
of which I shall speak again in its proper Place.
Here, among almost innumerable Summits, and rising Peaks of nameless Hills, we saw the famous
Kader-Idricks,
which, some are of Opinion, is the highest Mountain in
Britain,
another call'd
Rarauvaur,
another call'd
Mowywynda
; and still every Hill we saw, we thought higher than all that ever we saw before.
We inquired here after that strange Phaenomenon, which was not only seen, but fatally experienc'd, by the Country round this Place, namely of a livid Fire, coming off from the Sea, and setting on Fire Houses, Barns, Stacks of Hay and Corn, and poisoning the Herbage in the Field; of which there is a full Account given in the Philosophical Transactions: And as we had it confirm'd by the general Voice of the People, I shall take notice, That the Transactions particularly observe, that the Eclipses of the Sun in
Aries
have been very fatal to this Place; and that the Years 1542, and 1567, when the Sun was eclipsed in that Sign, it suffer'd very much by Fire; and after the latter Eclipse of the two, the Fire spread so far, that about 200 Houses in the Town and Suburbs of
Caernarvon,
were consum'd.
This mountainous Country runs away North thro'
Merionethshire,
and almost thro'
Caernarvonshire,
where
Snowden-hill,
of a monstrous Height, according to its Name, had Snow on the Top in the Beginning of
June
; but it does not continue the Year round, as some have asserted.
These unpassable Heights were doubtless the Refuges of the
Britons,
when, in their continual Wars with the
Romans
and
Saxons,
they were overpower'd.
That Side of the County of
Caernarvon,
which borders on the Sea, is not so mountainous, and is both more fertile, and more populous. The principal Place in this Part is
Caernarvon,
a good Town, with a Castle built by
Edward
I. to curb and reduce the wild People of the Mountains, and secure the Passage into
Anglesea.
That Prince also kept his Court often here; and here his eldest Son and Successor,
Edward
II. was born, who was therefore call'd
Edward of Caernarvon.
This
Edward
was the first of the Sons of the Kings of
England,
vested with the Title of Prince of
Wales:
And here were kept the
Chancery
and
Exchequer
of the Princes of
Wales,
for the North Part of the Principality, as it was at
Caermarthen
for the South Part. It is a small, but strong Town, clean, and well-built; and, considering the Place, the People are very courteous and obliging to Strangers. It is seated on the Firth or Inlet call'd
Meneu,
parting the Isle of
Anglesea,
or
Mona,
from the main Land; and here
is a Ferry over to the Island, called
Abermenai-Ferry
▪ And from thence a direct Road to
Holyhead,
whithe
we went for no other Purpose, than to have anothe
View of
Ireland
; tho' we were disappointed, the Weather being bad and stormy.
Whoever travels critically over these Mountains of
South-Wales
and
Merionethshire,
will think
Stonehenge
in
Wiltshire,
and
Roll-rich
Stones in
Oxforashire,
no more Wonders, seeing there are so many such in these Provinces, that they are not thought strange of at all, nor is it doubted, but they were generally Monuments of the Dead; as also are the single Stones of immense Bulk, of which we saw so many, that we gave over remarking 'em. Some measur'd from 7, 8, to 10, and one 16 Feet high, being a whole Stone, but so great, that the most of the Wonder is, where they were found, and how dragg'd to the Place; since, besides the steep Ascents to some of the Hills, on which they stand, it would be hardly possible to move some of them, now, with 50 Yoke of Oxen. And yet a great many of these Stones are found confusedly lying one upon another on the utmost Summit or Top of the
Glyder,
and other Hills in
Merioneth,
or
Caernarvonshire
; to which it is next to impossible, that all the Power of Art, and Strength of Man and Beast, could carry them, and the Vulgar make no Difficulty of saying, The Devil set them up there.
One of these monumental Stones is to be seen a little way from
Harleigh-Castle:
It is a large Stone lying flat, supported by three other Stones at three of the four Angles, tho' the Stone is rather oval than square; it is almost 11 Feet long, the Breadth unequal; but in some Places it is from 7 to 8 Feet broad, and it may be supposed has been both longer and broader; 'tis in some Places about two Feet thick, but in others, 'tis worn almost to an Edge by Time. The three Stones that support it, are about 20 Inches square; 'tis supposed there have been four, two of which, that support the thickest End, are near 8 Feet high, the other not above three Feet, being suppos'd to be settled in the Ground, so that the Stone lies sloping, like the Roof of a Barn. There is another of these to be seen in the Isle of
Anglesea
; the flat Stone is much larger and thicker than this; but we did not go to see it. There are also two Circles of Stones in that Island, such as
Stone-henge,
but larger.
This is a particular kind of Monument, and therefore I took Notice of it; but the others are generally single Stones of vast Magnitude, set up on one End, Column-wise, which being so very large, are likely to remain till the End of Time: but are generally without any Inscription, or regular Shape, or any Mark, to intimate for whom, or for what, they were so placed.
These Mountains are indeed so like the
Alps,
that except the Language of the People, one could hardly avoid thinking he is passing from
Grenoble
to
Susa,
or rather thro' the Country of the
Grisons.
The Lakes also, which are so numerous here, make the Similitude the greater: nor are the Fables which the Country People tell of these Lakes, much unlike the Stories which we meet with among the
Switzers,
of the famous Lakes in their Country. Mr.
Camden
's Continuator tells us of 50 or 60 Lakes in
Caernarvonshire
only. We did not count 'em, but I believe, if we had, we should have found them to be more, rather than less.
Here we met with the Char Fish, the same kind which we saw in
Lancashire,
and also in the Lakes of
Switzerland,
and no-where else, that I have heard of, in
Europe.
The
Welsh
call it the
Torg
ch.
There is nothing of Note to be seen in the Isle of
Anglesea,
but the Town and the Castle of
Beaumaris,
which was also built by King
Edward
I. and call'd
Beau-marsh,
or the
Fine Plain
; for here the Country is very level and plain, and the Land is fruitful and pleasant. The Castle was very large, as may be seen by its Remains; and that it was strong, the Situation will tell also; but 'tis now of no Use.
As we went to
Holyhead,
by the South Part of the Island from
Newborough,
and came back thro' the Middle to
Beaumaris,
we saw the whole Extent of it; and indeed, it is a much pleasanter Country than any Part of
North-Wales,
that we had yet seen; and particularly is very fruitful in Corn and Cattle.
Here we cross'd the
Streight
of
Meneu
again, and came to
Bangor,
at the Place where King
Edward
I. intended to have built a great Stone-bridge: It would indeed have been a Work fit for so great a King: But the Bottom being doubtful, and the Sea in that Place sometimes very raging and strong, the Workmen thought it impracticable; and though the King was very positive in his Design for a great while, yet he was prevail'd with at last to decline it.
Bangor
is a Town noted for its Antiquity. It is a Bishop's See, but has an old, mean-looking, and almost despicable Cathedral Church.
This Church boasts of being one of the most antient in
Britain,
the People say, the most antient; and that St.
Daniel
(to whom it was dedicated) was first Bishop here, in the Year 512. They allow that the Pagans, perhaps of
Anglesea,
ruin'd the Church, and possess'd the Bishoprick after it was built, for above one hundred Years; nor is there any Account of it from the Year 512 to 1009: After this, the Bishoprick was ruin'd again by one of its own Bishops, whose Name was
Bulkeley,
who, as the
Monasticon
says, not only sold the Revenues, but even the very Bells; for which Sacrilege it is said he was struck blind.
It is certainly at present no rich Bishoprick; yet the Bishops are generally allow'd to hold some other good Benefice
in Commendam,
and the Preferment seems to be a grateful Introduction to the Clergy, as the Bishops are generally translated from hence to a more profitable one; and very few Gentlemen of the Function have dy'd Bishops of
Bangor
; so that, in some Sense, a Bishop of this See may be said to be immortal.
From
Bangor
we went North, (keeping the Sea on our Left-hand) to
Conway.
This is the poorest, but pleasantest Town in all this County for the Bigness of it; it is seated on the Bank of a fine River, which is not only pleasant and beautiful, but is a noble Harbour for Ships, had they any Occasion for them there; the Stream is deep and safe, and the River broad, as the
Thames
at
Deptford:
It only wants a Trade suitable to so good a Port; for it infinitely outdoes
Chester,
and
Liverpool
too.
In this Passage, we went over the famous Precipice call'd
Penmaen-maur,
which I think Fame has made abundance more frightful than it is; for tho' the Rock is indeed very high, and, if any one should fall from it, he would be dash'd in Pieces, yet, on the other hand, there is no Danger of it, a Wall being built all the Way, on the Edge of the Precipice, to secure Passengers: Those who have been at the Hill or Pass of
Enterkin
in
Scotland,
know very well, the Danger there is much greater than here; and the frequent Loss of Lives, both of Man and Horse, will testify the same.
We have but little remarkable in the Road from
Conway
to
Holywell,
but Craggs and Rocks all along the North Shore of
Denbeigh,
till we came to
Denbeigh
the County Town, which has a Castle of great Strength; it is a large, populous Place, and has a good Trade carry'd on by Tanners and Glovers. This Town carries something in its Countenance of its Neighbourhood to
England
; but that which was most surprising, after such a tiresome and fatiguing Journey, over the inhospitable Mountains of
Merioneth
and
Caernarvonshire,
was, that descending now from the Hills, we came into a most pleasant, fruitful, populous, and delicious Vale, full o
Villages and Towns, the Fields shining with Corn▪ just ready for the Reapers, the Meadows green and flowery, and a fine River, of a mild and gentle Stream, running thro' it: Nor is it a small or casua
Intermission, but we had a Prospect of the Country open before us for above 20 Miles in Length, and from 5 to 7 Miles in Breadth, all smiling with the same kind of Complexion; which made us think ourselves in
England
again, all on a sudden.
In this pleasant Vale, turning North from
Denbeigh,
and following the Stream of the River, we came to
St. Asaph,
in
Flintshire,
a small City, with a Cathedral, being a Bishoprick of tolerable good Value, though the Church is old: It is but a poor Place, and ill-built, although the Country is so pleasant and rich all round it. There are some old Monuments in this Church, but none of any Note, nor could we read the
Welsh
Inscriptions.
From hence we came to
Holywell:
The Story of it is, that the pious Virgin, St.
Winifred,
being ravish'd and murder'd, this healing Water sprung out of her Body when buried. The
Romanists
believe it, as 'tis evident, from their thronging hither to receive Benefit from the healing Virtue of the Water, which they do not hope for as medicinal, but as miraculous, and think it heals them by virtue of the Intercession and Influence of this famous Virgin, St.
Winifrid.
The Chapel dedicated to this Holy Virgin, is cut out of a solid Rock, and Numbers of Pilgrims resort to it, with great Devotion. Under this Chapel, the Water gushes out into a great Stream, and the Place where it breaks out, is form'd like a Basin or Cistern, in which they bathe: The Water is intensly cold, and indeed there is no great Miracle in that Point, considering the Rocks it flows from, where it is impregnated by divers Minerals; the Virtue of which, and not of the Saint, I suppose, work the greatest Part of the Cures, that may be suppos'd to be effected there.
There is a little Town near the Well, which may, indeed, be said to have risen from the Confluence of People thither; for almost all the Houses are either Publick Houses, or let into Lodgings; and the Priests who attend here, and are very numerous, appear in Disguise: Sometimes they are Physicians, sometimes Surgeons, sometimes Gentlemen, and sometimes Patients, or any thing, as Occasion presents. Nobody takes notice of them, as to their Religion, though they are well known, no not the
Roman Catholicks
themselves; but in private they have their proper Oratories in certain Places, whither the Votaries resort; and good Manners has prevail'd so far, that no Protestant, let him know what he will, takes Notice of it, or inquires where one goes, or has been gone.
The principal Towns in
Flintshire,
are, 1.
Flint,
the Shire Town, but so small, that it has not a Market. 2.
St. Asaph,
before-mention'd. 3.
Caerwys,
the chief Market-Town of the County.
From hence we pass'd by
Flint-Castle,
a known Place, but of no Consequence now; and directly to
Wrexham,
deemed the largest Town in
North-Wales,
having heard much of a fine Church there, but we were greatly disappointed: There is indeed a very large Tower or Steeple, as some call it, adorn'd with Imagery; but far from fine: The Work is mean, the Statues without any Fancy or Spirit; and as the Stone is of a reddish crumbling Kind, like the Cathedral at
Chester,
Time has made it look gross and rough.
There are a great many antient Monuments in this Church, and in the Church-yard also; but none of Note, and almost all the Inscriptions are in
Welsh.
The Church is large; but they must be much mistaken, who tell us 'tis one of the finest in
England
; for it falls short in that respect, of even those Churches which are as old as itself.
This Town is large, well-built and populous; and besides the Church, there are two large Meeting-Houses, in one of which, we were told they preach in
Welsh
one Part of the Day, and in
English
the other. Here is a great Market for Flannel, which the Factors buy up of the poor
Welsh
People, who manufacture it; and thence it is sent to
London
; and is a considerable Manufacture thro' all this Part of the Country, by which the Poor are very profitably imploy'd.
We could not omit seeing the once famous
Banchor,
which
Malmsbury
confounds with the Episcopal
Bangor
; and were pleas'd to see there a fine Stone Bridge over the
Dee.
This was once a City, and the Monastery was so famous, that in the Time of the
British
Kings it was said to contain 2400 Monks, who in their Turns (
viz.
100 each Hour of the 24) reading Prayers and singing Psalms continually, Divine Service was perform'd Day and Night without Intermission. But now not so much as the Ruins are to be seen, and as all the People in the little Village, that takes place of it, spoke
Welsh,
we could find no body that could give us any Intelligence. So effectually had Time eras'd the very Foundations of the Place.
This is said to be the Birth-place of that Arch-heretick
Pelagius,
who from hence began to broach his heretical Opinions, which afterwards so terribly overspread the Church.
Camden
observes, that this
Bangor
is situated in the County of
Flint.
But before I have intirely done with the Principality, give me leave to observe briefly a few things with relation to this Journey, and the Gentlemen of
Wales.
Tho' this Journey, and especially over such monstrous Hills and Precipices, as those in
Merioneth
and some other Shires, was a little heavy to us, yet were we well supported through it, for we generally found their Provisions very good and cheap, and pretty good Accommodations in the Inns.
The
Welsh
Gentlemen are very hospitable; and the People in general very obliging and conversable, especially to Strangers. When we let them know, we travell'd merely in Curiosity to view the Country, their Civility was heightened to such a Degree, that nothing could be more friendly, and they were willing to tell us every thing that belong'd to their Country, and to shew us all that we desir'd to see.
They value themselves much upon their antient Heroes, as
Caractacus, Owen ap Tudor,
Prince
Lewellin
; and particularly upon the Antiquity of their Families, and laugh at a Pedigree, that can't be trac'd higher than the Conquest. It must be own'd, that the Gentlemen, justly claim a very antient Descent, and have preserv'd their Families intire, for many Ages: They receive you well into their Houses, treat you very handsomely, are very generous; and indeed, nothing is wanting within Doors; and, what is more, they have generally very good Estates to support their Hospitality; but they are very jealous of Affronts, and soon provok'd to Anger, which is seldom allay'd without Satisfaction; and then become as soon reconcil'd again.
I will now put an End to this Letter, with assureing you, that
I am, &c.
LETTER VII. CONTAINING A Description of Part of
Cheshire, Northamptonshire,
and
Leicestershire.
SIR,
I Continued at
Chester
for some time, except that I made two or three Excursions into the neighbouring Country, and particularly into that Part of
Shropshire
which I had not view'd as I went; as also into the North, and North-west Parts of
Cheshire.
But I should first acquaint you, that
Malpas,
through which I came from
Wales,
is situate on a high Hill, and was formerly strengthened by a Castle, which is now in Ruins. The Church is a stately Building, and stands on the most eminent Part of the Town: It has 2 Rectors, who do Duty alternately. The Town consists of 3 Streets, and is well pav'd; has a good Market, a Grammar-School, and an Hospital.
The first Trip I made, was into the
Cestria Chersonesus,
as I think we may properly call it: It is bounded by the two great Firths, or Arms of the Sea, the one call'd the Mouth of the
Dee,
and the other of the two Rivers
Mersey
and
Weaver,
which form it into a Peninsula. It is about 16 Miles long, 6 or 7 over, and has not one Market Town in it, tho' it is exceeding rich and fertile; occasion'd possibly by the Neighbourhood of two such great Towns, as
Chester
and
Liverpool.
Going down from
Chester,
by the
Rhoodee,
as they call it, that is, the Marshes of the River
Dee,
and coasting the River after it is grown broader than the Marshes, the first Place of any Note which we come to, is
Nesson,
where, in the late
Irish
War, most of the Troops embark'd for that grand Expedition: From hence the Vessels go away to
High-lake,
where they ride safe in their Way, as the Ships from
London
lie in the
Downs,
till the Wind presents for their respective Voyages.
But to return to
Chester.
It is a fine old City and Colony of the
Romans
; and many Antiquities have been found in it. It has four Churches beside the Cathedral, which is a Pile venerable for Antiquity, but in no extraordinary Condition. There are Shadows of many Pictures on the Wall, but defac'd. At the West End, in Niches are some Images of the Earls Palatine of
Chester.
The adjoining Abbey is quite ruin'd. The Walls round the City are kept in very good Repair, at the Charge of the Corporation, and afford a pleasant, airy Walk. The Exchange is a neat Building, supported by Columns 13 Feet high, of one Stone each. Over it is the City-hall, a well-contrived Court of Judicature. The Castle was formerly the Palace, where the Earls assembled their Parliaments, and enacted Laws independent of the Kings of
England,
determining all Causes themselves. It has always a Garrison kept in it. The Piazza's or Rows, as they call them, do not in my Opinion, add any thing to the Beauty of the City; but, on the contrary, serve to make it look both old and indifferent. These
Rows
are certain long Galleries, up one Pair of Stairs, which run along the Side of the Streets, before all the Houses, tho' joined to them, and, as is pretended, they are to keep the People dry in walking along. This they do indeed effectually, but then they take away all the View of the Houses from the Street, nor can a Stranger, that was to ride thro'
Chester,
see any Shops in the City; besides, they make the Shops themselves dark, and the Way in them is dark, dirty, and uneven.
The best Ornament of the City is, that the Streets are very broad and fair, and run thro' the whole City in strait Lines, crossing in the middle of it as at
Chichester:
The Walls afford a very pleasant Walk, as I have said, round the City, and within the Battlements, from whence you may see the circumjacent Country, and particularly on the Side of the
Rhoodee,
which is a fine large low Green, on the Bank of the
Dee,
which in Winter is often under Water by the Inundations of the River. Beyond the
Rhoodee,
may be seen from the Walls of
Chester
the County of
Flint,
and the Mountains of
Wales.
The Castle is a good firm Building, and strong, tho' not fortify'd with many Outworks: There is always a good Garrison kept in it. 'Tis said this Castle was built, or at least repair'd, by
Hugh Lupus,
the famous Earl of
Chester,
Nephew to
William
the Conqueror, as was also the Church; the Body of whom was lately (
Anno
1723) discover'd, as is supposed, in an old ruinous Building called, The Chapter-house.
It was first wrapp'd in Leather, and then inclos'd in a Stone Coffin. The Skull and all the Bones were very fresh, and in their proper Position; and, what is more remarkable, the String which ty'd the Ankles together, was whole and intire, altho' it was then upwards of 650 Years since the Interrment.
Chester
is but a modern Bishoprick, being so made in the Year 1541. when King
Henry
VIII. divided it from
Lichfield.
They tell us, that King
Edgar,
who conquer'd all this Part of
Britain,
and was rowed up the
Dee
in his Royal Barge by Seven, or, as some say, Eight Kings, himself steering the Helm, founded the great Church, which
Lupus
finish'd and endow'd.
Here is a noble Stone Bridge over the
Dee,
very high and strong built, and 'tis needful it should be so; for the
Dee
is a most furious Stream at some Seasons, and brings a vast Weight of Water with it from the Mountains of
Wales.
Chester
has long given Title of Earl to the Prince of
Wales,
eldest Son of the King.
Chester
was formerly an Harbour for Shipping; but the Sea had long ago withdrawn itself; and the River
Dee
was so choaked up, that Vessels of Burden could not come within some Miles of it; so that an Act of Parliament passed in the Year 1732, for rendering it navigable. And in Pursuance thereof, the Undertakers, raised a Sum of 47,830
l.
which they have expended in cutting and perfecting a new Chanel for the River
Dee,
of near Ten Miles in Length, and in making proper Dams and Sluices, into which they have turned the said River; so that it is actually navigable at this Time for Ships and Vessels of considerable Burdens to the Quay, or Key, of
Chester,
where they load and unload Goods and Merchandize. This Success encourag'd the Undertakers to apply to Parliament (1740-1), for further Powers to complete the same, and for uniting the said Undertakers into a Company for that laudable Purpose.
This County, though so remote from
London,
is one of those which contributes much to its Support, as well as to that of several other Parts of
England,
by its excellent Cheese, which they make here in such Quantities, that, as I am told from very good Authority, the City of
London
only takes off 14000 Tons every Year; besides vast Quantities which they send to
Bristol
and
York,
and also to
Scotland
and
Ireland
; so that the Quantity of Cheese made here, must be prodigiously great. Indeed, the whole County is imploy'd in it, and Part of its Neighbourhood too; for though it goes by the Name of
Cheshire Cheese,
yet great Quantities of it are made in such Parts of
Shropshire, Staffordshire,
and
Lancashire,
as border upon
Cheshire.
The Soil is extraordinarily good, and the Grass has a peculiar Richness in it, which disposes the Kine to give a great Quantity of Milk, which is very sweet and good; and this Cheese Manufacture increases every Day, raises the Value of the Lands, and encourages the Farmers to keep vast Stocks of Cows; which of themselves contribute to improve and enrich the Land.
While we were station'd, as I may say, at
Chester,
I made a Trip to several Places round about it. And particularly to the fine old Seat of the Lord
Delamere,
and the spacious Forest which gives Title to that noble Family. They say here was formerly an old City, now called the
Chamber on the Forest,
probably some Fort or Camp to secure the Road. From hence is so fine a Prospect of the
Welsh
Mountains, that I never before beheld such a noble Scene of Nature.
Beeston-Castle
is on our left, built upon a Precipice. This Forest is noted for great Plenty of Red and Fallow Deer, and is a great Relief for Fish, Fowl, and Turf, to the neighbouring Towns, whereof there are a great many small ones about this Forest, and thro' the upper Part of it the
Weaver
takes its Course. The chief Town hereabout is
Fr
desham,
famous formerly for a Castle, and the Seat of the Family of the
Savages,
which however is but a mean Market-town. Near this Place is also the famous Seat of
Rock-Savage,
built on the Ascent of an Hill belonging to the same Family, whereof the last was the late Earl
Rivers.
On the South Side of the Park stands
Beeston
-Castle, upon an Hill environ'd with Mountains, and yet overlooks almost the whole County. It is very strong, covers a great Extent of Ground, and is adorn'd with many Towers. It gives Name to an antient Family in this County.
From
Chester
we kept directly on East to
Middlewich,
a large Market-town, with a spacious Church, but chiefly noted for making Salt; where are Two excellent Brine-seeths.
We followed the
Weaver
directly North to
Northwich
also famous for Brine-springs, and for making great Quantities of the finest Salt by boiling the Water in large iron Pans of small Depth. As fast as the Salt crystallizes, they rake it out, and dry it in wicker Baskets of a conick Form. The Duty it brings in is very considerable.
Within these Fifty Years, on the South-side of the Town, they discover'd a great many Mines of Rock-salt, which they continually dig up, and send in great Lumps to the maritime Ports, where it is dissolv'd, and made into eating Salt. We were let down by a Bucket 150 Feet deep to the Bottom of the Salt Quarry, a most pleasant subterraneous Prospect, looking like a Cathedral supported by Rows of Pillars, and Roof of Crystal, all of the same Rock, transparent and glittering from the numerous Candles of the Workmen, labouring with their Steel Pick-axes in digging it away. This Rock-work extends to several Acres.
There is a good Church at
Northwich,
with a fine Roof, and semicircular Choir.
At
Lawton-yates
they bore 60 Yards deep for the Salt Spring; at
Hassal
47; at
Wheelock
18; about
Middlewich
less; at
Northwich
it rises to open Day; which seems to intimate, that the salt Spring runs between Layers of the Earth in an horizontal Line. Upon Boring, it rises with great Impetuosity, so that the Workmen have scarce Time to get out of the Wells. This is all along the Side of a Brook that comes from a remarkable Hill called
Mawcop,
upon the Edge of
Staffordshire
; so that the Ground rises above the true Level in the mentioned Proportion.
From
Northwich
we travell'd North-east, and came to
Knutsford,
a good Town, and finely situated. A Brook runs thro' it, and divides it into two. It has a Market and Town-house, and a pretty good Parochial Church.
Altringham
and
Stockport,
Two small Market-towns, lie higher up Northward, the first near, and the other upon the Borders of
Lancashire
; and hearing of nothing remarkable in them, we turned South-east from
Knutsford
to
Macclesfield,
which they call in this County
Maxfield.
Macclesfield
is situate in the Forest of the same Name, a Town of great Antiquity, and very fair and spacious. 'Tis under the Government of a Mayor, and enjoys many particular Privileges by virtue of the Court and Liberties of the Forest. It has a good Church with a high Spire Steeple, and a College adjoining to it, in which are buried a great many of the
Savages:
and here is also a good Free-school, and a thriving Manufacture of Buttons.
From hence we veer'd about, and came South-west to
Congleton,
near the Borders of
Staffordshire,
a fair Mayor-town and well-water'd on all Sides. It has Two Churches, and is noted for a good Trade in Gloves.
We then came to the Market-town of
Sandbach,
which is delightfully situated on a Branch of the
Weaver.
It has a fair Church, and in the Market-place stand Two Crosses of Stone, with the History of Christ's Passion ingraven on them. The Ale here is deservedly famed.
From
Sandbach
we went on Southward, and came to the great
London
Road at
Namptwich,
which stands upon it. This Town is well-built, and the Streets look fair, having a great many Gentlemens Houses in them. The Church is a noble Edifice in the Form of a Cross, with the Steeple rising from the Middle; but the Maintenance of the Minister is mean and pitiful. The Inhabitants are rich, and carry on a good Trade in most sort of Commodities, but principally in making Salt and Cheese, the latter exceeding all that is made in the County, as the Soil this Way is esteemed the best, and, as 'tis said, was called by King
Edward
I. the
Vale Royal.
Thus having made my Circuit round the County, I shall go from hence South to
Whitchurch
in
Shropshire.
But I must first note two things of
Cheshire:
1. That there is no Part of
England,
where there are equal Numbers of Gentry, of such antient and noble Extraction: Mr.
Camden
is very particular in their Names and Descents, to whom therefore I must refer. 2. That it is a County
Palatine,
and has been so for many Ages, and its Government is distinct from any other, and very particular; it is administred by a
Chamberlain,
a
Judge Special,
who is call'd
Chief Justice
of
Chester,
two
Barons
of the
Exchequer,
three
Sergeants at Law,
a
Sheriff,
an
Attorney,
an
Escheator,
and all proper and usual subordinate Officers; and the Jurisdiction of all these Offices is kept up, and preserv'd very strictly; only we are to note, that the
Judge Special,
as he is call'd, tries only civil Causes, not criminal, which are left to the ordinary Judges of
England,
who go the Circuits here, as in other Places.
Whitchurch
is a pleasant, large, and populous Town, and has a very good Church, in which is the famous Monument of the great
Talbot,
first E. of
Shrewsbury,
who was call'd in his Time the
English
ACHILLES, and who was so renown'd in the Wars of
France,
that no Man in that Kingdom dared to encounter him single-handed. He had ingraven on one Side of his Sword,
Sum Talboti,
and on the Reverse,
Pro vincere inimicos meos.
His Epitaph is as follows, in capital Letters:
ORATE PRO ANIMA PRAENOBILIS DOMINI, DOMINI IOHANNIS TALBOTT, QUONDAM COMITIS SALOPIAE, DOMINI TALBOTT, DOMINI FURNIVALL, DOMINI VERDON, DOMINI STRANGE DE BLACKMERE, ET MARESCHALLI FRANCIAE, QUI OBIIT IN BELLO APVD BVRDEWS VII. IVLII MCCCCLIII.
This Town has a good Market, and a great many Gentry near it, whereof some are
Roman-catholicks.
They tell us, that this Town, when King
Charles
I. remov'd his Standard from
Nottingham
to
Shrewsbury,
raised a whole Regiment for his Service.
From hence we turn'd South, and passing by
Wem,
the Title given by King
James
II. to his Lord Chancellor
Jefferies,
thence we came to
Elsmere,
which gives Title of Baron to the Duke of
Bridgwater,
and is famous for a great Lake or Mere, which gives the Town its Name, and which the People pretend has in some Places no Bottom. This Place is remarkable for good Fish.
And further on West, on the Confines of
Denbighshire,
stands
Oswestry,
a Bailiwick Market-town, famous formerly for the Sale of
Welsh
Cottons and Flanels, but now only for the last. It is inclosed with a Wall, and a Ditch, and fortified with a Castle, and has a good Church without the Gate covered with Lead. From hence we came the same Night to
Shrewsbury.
Shrewsbury
is supposed to have been built out of the Ruins of the antient
Uriconium.
In the Reign of
William
the Conqueror,
Roger
Earl of
Montgomery
built a Castle here, on the North Side, and a stately Abbey, some Ruins of which are still to be seen. It is a beautiful, large, pleasant, populous, and rich Town; full of Gentry, and yet full of Trade too; for here likewise is a great Manufacture, as well of Flanel, as also of white Broad-cloth, which inriches all the Country round it.
The
Severn
in part surrounds this Town, just as the
Thames
does the
Isle of Dogs
; so that it makes the Form of an Horse-shoe. Over it are two fine Stone Bridges, upon one of which is built a very noble Gate, and, over the Arch of the Gate, the Statue of the great
Llewellin,
the Idol of the
Welsh,
and their last Prince of
Wales.
This is really a Town of Mirth and Gallantry, something like
Bury
in
Suffolk,
or
Durham
in the North, but much bigger than either of them, or indeed than both together.
Over the Market-house is kept a kind of Hall for the Manufactures, which are sold here weekly in very great Quantities; they speak all
English
in the Town, but on a Market-day you would think you were in
Wales.
Here is the greatest Market, the greatest Plenty of good Provisions, and the cheapest that is to be met with in all the Western Part of
England.
The
Severn
supplies them here with excellent Salmon, but 'tis also brought in great Plenty from the
Dee,
which is not far off, and abounds with a very good Kind, and is generally larger than in the
Severn.
As an Example of the Cheapness of Provisions, we paid here, in a publick Inn, but a Groat a Night for Hay, and Sixpence a Peck for Oats, for our Horses, which is cheaper than we found it in the cheapest Part of the North of
England
; all our other Provisions were in Proportion; and there is no doubt but the Cheapness of Provisions, joined to the Pleasantness and Healthiness of the Place, draws a great many Families hither, who love to live within the Compass of their Estates.
Mr.
Camden
calls it a City: and 'tis indeed equal to several good Cities in
England,
and superior to some. Near this Place was fought the bloody Battle between
Henry Hotspur,
and
Henry
IV. King of
England,
in which the former was kill'd, and all his Army overthrown, and the Place is called
Battlefield
to this Day.
Here are Five Churches, Two of them with lofty Spires. St.
Chad
's, and St.
Mary
's, are said to be antiently collegiate. There are abundance of antient Monuments in them all, which I have not room to mention.
This Town will for ever be famous for the Reception it gave to King
Charles
I. who, after setting up his Standard at
Nottingham,
and finding no Encouragement there, remov'd to
Shrewsbury,
being invited by the Gentry of the Town and Country round, where he was receiv'd with such a general Affection, and hearty Zeal, that his Majesty recover'd himself from the Discouragement of his first Step at
Nottingham,
and raised and compleated a strong Army in less Time than could be imagin'd; insomuch that, to the Surprize of the Parliament, and indeed of all the World, he was in the Field before them, and advanced upon them so fast, that he met them Two-thirds onward of his Way to
London,
and gave them Battle at
Edge-hill,
near
Banbury.
But the Fate of the War turning afterwards against the King, the Weight of it fell heavy upon this Town, and almost ruin'd it.
But they are now fully recover'd, and it is one of the most flourishing Towns in
England.
The Walls and Gates are yet standing, but useless; and the old Castle is gone to Ruin, as is the Case of almost all the old Castles in
England.
It should not be forgotten, that notwithstanding the Healthiness of the Place, here broke out first that unaccountable Plague, call'd,
The Sweating Sickness, Anno
1551; which spread itself thro' the whole Kingdom, and afterwards into several foreign Nations.
Here is a good Free-school, the most considerable in this Part of
England
; built and endow'd by Q.
Elizabeth,
with a very sufficient Maintenance for a Chief or Head-Master, and Three Under-Masters or Ushers. The Buildings are very spacious, and particularly the Library, which has a great many Books in it. The School-masters have also very handsome Houses to dwell in; so that the whole has the Face of a College.
There was a fine School here before, erected by the Town's-people, and maintain'd several Years by their Contribution. But the Queen took the Matter into her own Hands, and built the whole Fabrick new from the Ground, endowing it liberally out of her own Royal Bounty.
Here I was shew'd a very visible and remarkable Appearance of the great antient Road or Way call'd
Watling-street,
which comes from
London
to this Town, and goes on from hence to the utmost Coast of
Wales.
Remains of a Stone Bridge are to be seen in the Bottom of the River, when the Water is low. This Road is raised a good Height above the Soil, and so strait, that upon an Eminence you may see it Ten or Fifteen Miles before you, and as much behind, over many Hill-tops answering one the other as a Vista of Trees.
We lodg'd at an Inn called
Ivesey-bank,
on the Borders between
Staffordshire
and
Shropshire.
About a Mile off in a large Wood stands
Boscobel-house,
or
White-Ladies,
as some call it, where the
Pendrils
lived, who preserved King
Charles
II. after
Worcester
Battle, and famous for the Royal Oak. The Granddaughter of that
William Pendril
still liv'd in the House, when I was there. The Floor of the Garret, which is a Popish Chapel, (formerly a Nunnery in Possession of the Family of
Cooksey
) being matted, prevents any Suspicion of a little Cavity with a Trapdoor over the Stair-case where the King was hid. His Bed was artfully plac'd behind some Wainscot, that shut up very close. A Descendant of the
Cookseys
still keeps the Gloves and Garters, which his Majesty left behind him.
The said Chapel is still standing, and has some painted Saints upon the Wall at one End.
A Bow-shot from the House, just by a Horsetrack passing thro' the Wood, stood the Royal Oak, into which the King and Col.
Carlos
climbed, by means of the Hen-roost Ladder, when they thought it no longer safe to stay in the House, the Family reaching them Victuals with the Nut-hook. It happened, as the People related it to us, that whilst the King and Colonel were in the Tree, a Party of the Enemy's Horse, sent to search the House, came whistling and talking along this Road; and when they were just under the Tree, an Owl flew out of a neighbouring Tree, and hover'd along the Ground, as if her Wings were broken, which the Soldiers merrily pursued.
The Tree is now inclos'd within a Brick Wall, the Inside whereof is cover'd with Laurel, of which we may say, as
Ovid
did of that of the
Augustan
Palace,—
Mediamque tuebere quercum.
For the Oak is in the Middle, almost cut away by Travellers, whose Curiosity leads them to see it. Close by the Side grows a young thriving Plant from one of its Acorns.
After the Restoration, the King, reviewing the Place, no doubt, with very different Emotions to what he had when he was in it, gather'd some of the Acorns, and set them in
St. James's Park
or Garden, and us'd to water them himself. If we may judge of the Value the King put upon his Preservation, and Royal Person, it was worth 200
l. per Annum,
and one should think a King, if worth any thing, worth that; for so much he gave to
Pendril,
and it now remains in the Family. Over the Door of the Inclosure is this Inscription cut in Marble:
Felicissimam arborem, quam in asylum potentissimi regis
Caroli II.
Deus O. M. per quem reges regnant, hic crescere voluit, tam in perpetuam rei tantae memoriam, quam specimen firmae in reges fidei, muro cinctam posteris commendant
Basilius
&
Jana Fitzherbert.
Quercus amica Jovi.
That is,
Basil
and
Jane Fitzherbert
recommend to Posterity this most fortunate Tree, which the Allgacious and Almighty God, by whom Kings reign, ordained here to grow, to be the Asylum of the most potent Prince, King
Charles
II. and have begirt it with a Wall, as well in perpetual Remembrance of so great an Event, as a Testimony of their firm Allegiance to Kings.
— The Oak belov'd by
Jove.
Ten Miles South-east of
Shrewsbury
stands
Great Wenlock,
an antient Borough and good Market-town. The noted
Wreken-hill
stands higher up, North of it, between the
Watlingstreet
and the
Severn,
and within a Mile of
Wroxeter,
the famous
Roman
Station. It ascends gradually from a pleasant level Ground, strikes out a pretty great Length, and is well adorn'd with Trees. 'Tis the highest Ground in all the County, and gives a fine Prospect all around it.
Following
the Watling street
North, we came to a small Market-town call'd
Wellington,
of very little Note; and still keeping
the Street,
we arrived at
Newport
on the Borders of
Staffordshire,
a little Market-town, where is one of the noblest Foundations for a School in the whole Kingdom, endowed by one
Adams,
an Haberdasher of
London,
to the Value of 7000
l.
The School is 70 Feet long, 22 wide, and the same in Height, a Library, a House for both the Master and Usher, 60
l.
a Year to the first, and 30
l.
to the other, and a Garden to each House of an Acre, and Two Acres for the Boys to play in. Near it he has likewise built an Alms-house, and gave 550
l.
towards building the Town-house. Over the School-door is this Distich:
Scripsisti haeredem patriam, tibi quae dedit ortum:
Scriberis ergo tuae, jure, pater patriae.
That is,
Thy Country is thy Heir: and therefore we
Justly esteem thy Country's Parent Thee.
Between this Town and
Drayton,
a small Market-town, higher up Northward, and likewise on the Borders of
Staffordshire,
is
Bloreheath,
famous for a Battle fought between the House of
York
and that of
Lancaster,
wherein
Nevil
Earl of
Salisbury
for the former, with 5000 Men only, beat Lord
Audley
with 10000 Men, after a most bloody Engagement.
Entering
Staffordshire,
we quitted the said
Streetway,
a little to the left, to see
Stafford
the County-town, and the most considerable, except
Litchfield,
in the County. In the Way we pass'd thro' a small, but antient Town, call'd
Penkrige,
vulgarly
Pankrage,
probably the
Penn
erucium
of the
Romans,
where happen'd to be a Fair. We were surprised to see the prodigious Number of the finest and most beautiful Horses that can any-where be seen, brought hither from
Yorkshire,
the Bishoprick of
Durham,
and all the Horse-breeding Counties in
England:
we were told there were not less than an hundred Jockeys or Horse-kopers, as they call them there, from
London,
to buy Horses for Sale. Also an incredible Number of Gentlemen attended with their Grooms, to buy Hunters and good Road Horses. In a Word, I believe I may mark it for the greatest Horse-Fair in the World, for Horses of Value, and especially those we call Saddle-Horses; tho' there were great Numbers of fine large Stone-Horses for Coach and Draught too.
From hence we came in Two Hours easy Riding to
Stafford,
on the River
Sow.
'Tis an antient Town, and gives Name to the County; but we thought to have found in it something more worth going so much out of the Way for. It is however neat and well-built, and pleasantly seated in low Grounds, and is lately much increased, and grown rich by the Clothing-trade. It is governed by a Mayor, and other inferior Officers, consists of Two Parishes, and has a good Free-school. 'Tis said this Town retains the antient Custom of
Borough English,
which is, that the youngest Sons inherit the Lands of their Fathers within the Town. Here is likewise a fine square Market-place, where stands the Shire-Hall, and the Streets are well paved.
We tarry'd here a few Days, in order to visit the Towns lying on each Side of it, with more Attention and Convenience.
Eccleshall
lies North-west of
Stafford,
and is a pretty Market-town noted for Pedlery-wares; and a little Market-town call'd
Stone,
lies upon the
Trent.
Line
stands still further North,
Trent.
'Tis govern
d by a Mayor, Two Justices, Two Bailiffs, and Common-council, and holds Pleas under 40
s.
The Streets are large, broad, and pav'd; but the Houses are low, and generally thatch'd: the Clothing-trade flourishes here, and the Town is surrounded with Coal-pits. Here are the Ruins of an old Castle. The Coals here are cut out in Slices, and shine with all the various Colours of a Peacock's Tail, and therefore are call'd
Peacock-Coals.
Dr.
Plot,
as an Instance of the Growth of Stones, mentions, that near this Place was found a Stone, with a Man's Skull, Teeth and all, inclosed in it. And here is an excellent Device for the Taming of Shrews: they put a Bridle into the Scold's Mouth, which deprives her of the Power of Speech, by which she is led about the Town, and expos'd to publick Shame, till she promises Amendment.
Betley,
a little Market-town, lies West of
Newcastle,
upon the Borders of
Cheshire.
Breewood
is a pretty Market-town, lying South-west of
Stafford.
And due South stands
Wolverhampton,
a very antient Town, situate on an Hill, which is well-built, pav'd, and inhabited. Here the Trade of Lock-making is carry'd on to great Perfection. In its Church are several old Monuments, and a Brass Statue of Sir
Richard Leveson,
who engag'd the
Spaniards
under Sir
Francis Drake.
The Pulpit is very old, and of Stone; and in the Church-yard is a very old Stone Cross. From the Hill, on which the Town is situated, run Four weak Springs of different Qualities, which is the only Water they have to supply this large and populous Town.
Walsal,
East of
Wolverhampton,
is a good, pleasant Corporate-town, governed by a Mayor, and situate on the Top of an Hill. This Place is famous for Ironmines and Iron-works; such as Spurs, Bridle-bits, Stirrups, Buckles,
&c.
in which there is a considerable Trade carried on.
Upon the Extremity of the County, South, just on the Borders of
Worcestershire,
is situate upon a high Mountain, the famous antient Castle of
Dudley,
a Building of great Extent with Trenches about it, cut out of a Rock, and hath a high Tower upon it, on the South-side. It was built by
Dodo
a
Saxon,
in 700. Great Part of it is in Ruins, and the rest is converted into a noble Seat, where the Lord
Dudley
and
Ward
resides. The Castle over-tops all the Trees that surround it, and has a most extensive Prospect over Five Shires, and into part of
Wales.
In the Hall of this Castle is a Table all of one intire Plank, which, before it was fitted up there, was 25 Yards long, and 1 Yard in Breadth; but being too long for the Hall, 7 Yards and 9 Inches of it was cut off, and made a Table for the Hall of a neighbouring Gentleman. What a prodigious Oak must this have been, that had a Length of 25 Yards, and a Diameter of one Yard from one End to the other!
The Town of
Dudley
lies near it, but in
Worcestershire
; and is only remarkable for being in a different County from the Castle.
The People in this County have been more particularly famous than any other for good Footmanship; and there have been, and still are among them, some of the fleetest Runners in
England
; which must be owing to their exercising themselves to it from their Childhood; for running Foot-races seems to be the general Sport or Diversion of the Country.
Near
Stafford
we saw
Ingestre,
where the late
Walter Chetwynd,
Esq
built, or rather rebuilt, a very fine Church at his own Charge, and where the late Lord
Chetwynd
has, with a Profusion of Expence, laid out the finest Park and Gardens that are in this Part of
England.
I am now at the utmost Extent of my proposed Limits for this Circuit; for
Ingestre
Parks reach to the very Banks of the
Trent.
So I turn'd to the Right, and intending for
Litchfield,
in the Way we saw
Beaudesert,
a famous old Seat, said to be built by
Hugh Lupus,
Earl of
Chester.
The Name indeed intimates it to be of
Norman
or
French
Original; at present it is in the noble Family of
Paget,
Earl of
Uxbridge,
who is styled Baron of
Beaudesert.
The Park is very fine, and its Situation exceeding pleasant, but the House is antient. In the Park is a famous Piece of Antiquity,
viz.
a large Camp or Fortification, surrounded with a double Trench, very large and deep.
From hence 'tis about four or five Miles to the City of
Litchfield,
the principal, next to
Chester,
of all the North-west Part of
England
; nor indeed is there any other, but this and
Coventry,
in the whole Road from
London
to
Carlisle,
which is on the Edge of
Scotland.
At
Rugely,
which is an handsome well-built Town, finely situated near the
Trent,
we came into the great
Lancashire
and
Cheshire
Road, or the North-west Road from
London,
which passing through this City from
Warrington-bridge
in
Cheshire,
falls into the
Watling-street,
mention'd before, about Three Miles South-east from the Town, and crosses another antient Causeway or Road, call'd
Icknild-street,
about a Mile out of the City; so that
Litchfield
lies, as it were, at the joining of all those great Roads. But instead of going directly to
Litchfield,
we struck out of the Road, and went North-east to
Bromley,
a pretty Market-town; and from thence East to
Tutbury
on the Skirts of
Derbyshire:
It has a small Market-town with a Castle in it.
Some Miles Southward stands
Burton upon Trent,
where the Clothing-trade is carried on with great Advantage. It is famous for its noble Bridge over the
Trent,
consisting of 34 Arches, and of the Length of 515 Yards. It is built of Free-stone cut and squared.
From hence we returned South-west to
Litchfield,
which is a fine, neat, well-built, and pretty large City. It rose from the Ruins of the
Roman Etocetum
a Mile off, now called
Chesterfield-wall,
from some Reliques of its Fortifications. There is a kind of slow, sluggish Water which runs, or rather glides heavily, thro' it, and so on for Four or Five Miles farther into the
Trent,
but takes a swifter Motion as soon as it is out of the Town. This Water parts the City into Two: one Part is call'd the Town, and the other the Close; in the first is the Market-place, a fine School, and a very handsome Hospital well endow'd. This Part is much the largest and most populous: but the other is the fairest, has the best Buildings in it, and, among the rest, the Cathedral Church, one of the finest and most beautiful in
England.
There are Two fine Causeways, which join the City and the Close, with Sluices to let the Water pass; but those were cut thro' in the Time of the late intestine Wars in
England
; and the Close, which is wall'd about, and was then fortify'd for the King, was very strong, and stood out several Attacks against
Cromwell
's Men, and was not at last taken without great Loss of Blood on both Sides, being gallantly defended, and at last taken by Storm.
There are in the Close, besides the Houses of the Clergy Residentiaries, a great many very well-built, and well-inhabited Houses, which made
Litchfield
a Place of good Company, above all the Towns in this or the neighbouring Counties of
Warwickshire
or
Derbyshire.
The See is very antient, and was once Archiepiscopal, made so by King
Offa
; and
Eadulph
the Archbishop was Metropolitan of all the Kingdom of the
Mercians,
and
East-Angles
; but it did not hold it; then it suffer'd another Diminution, by having the See of
Chester
taken away, which was once Part of this.
They told us here a long Story of St.
Chad,
formerly Bishop of this Church, and how he liv'd an Eremitical Life here, by the Spring near
Stow
Church, in a little Hovel or Cell. But the Bishops, since that Time, fare better, and make shift with a very fine Palace in the Close, and the Residentiaries live in Proportion to them.
They have another Legendary Story also at
Litchfield
; namely, that a thousand poor People, being instructed in the Christian Faith by the Care of
Offa
King of the
Mercians,
were all martyr'd here in one Field by the
Pagans
; and that in the Field where they were so murder'd, King
Oswy
of
Northumberland
caused a great Church to be built; and from thence the City bears for its Device an open Field, with mangled Carcasses lying dispers'd about in it, as if murder'd, and left unburied.
The Church, for the Elegancy and Regularity of the Building, may be esteemed one of the most complete in
England.
The West-end is richly decorated with the Statues of all the Kings who reigned in
Jerusalem,
from
David
to the Captivity. But it is too flat, and wants Projection, or, as Architects call it,
Relief,
to give it Boldness. The Two Towers are much too low for their Breadth, and look very heavy for want of Windows, especially where the Bells hang. The circular Stair-cases projecting octagonally at one Angle only of each, without any of the other Three Angles answering, is a great Irregularity. But the Spires above them are carried up in an exceeding beautiful Taste, much beyond any other
Gothick
Spires that I have seen. The middle Tower and Spire of this Church are much higher than those at the West-end, and are equally beautiful.
The Spire designed for the Middle of
Westminster-Abbey,
is an Imitation of the middle Spire of this Church.
The great Window over the middle Door is very large, and its Pediment finely adorn'd, a large Cross finishing the Top of it.
The Imagery and carv'd Work on the Front, as above, suffer'd much in the late unhappy Times; and they told us, the Cross over the West Window was frequently shot at by the rude Soldiers; but that they could not shoot it down.
The Saints of those Days also intirely ruin'd all the Ornaments of the Inside, with the Brass Inscriptions, Tombs,
&c.
It is built in the midst of a Bog for Security, and held out some fierce Attacks for King
Charles
I. and what the Outside suffer'd, has been very well repair'd since the Restoration, as well by the famous Bishop
Hacket,
as by the Bounty of several noble and generous Benefactors.
The
Monasticon
makes Mention of a Shrine given here for the Holy St.
Chad,
or St.
Cedda,
which cost 200,000
l.
but I conceive that to smell as much of the Legend, as the Miracles of St.
Chad
himself; since such a Gift at that Time must be equal to Two Millions of our Money.
Antient Camps are found in the Neighbourhood of
Litchfield.
From
Litchfield
we came to
Tamworth,
a fine pleasant trading Town, eminent for good Ale, and good Company, of the middling Sort; and also for a fine Charity of the famous Bookseller, Mr.
Guy,
who built and endow'd the noble Hospital in
Southwark,
called by his Name. The Town stands on the River
Tame,
which runs through it, and divides it into Two Parts, one Part whereof is in this County, and the other in
Warwickshire.
It is a Bailiwick Town, and a Place of good Account, tho' it has been much more considerable. Here was antiently a Palace of the
Mercian
Kings, and there is still remaining a square Trench, call'd the King's Dyke. This Town was given by the Conqueror to the
Marmyons,
who built the Castle here, and were hereditary Champions of
England,
from whom that Office descended to the
Dymokes
of
Lincolnshire.
From
Tamworth
we came to
Sutton-Colefield,
a little Town situated in an excellent Air, and among pleasant Woods, tho' but in a barren Soil; and then we came into the great Road again at
Coleshill
in
Warwickshire,
a small, but very handsome Market-town; from whence we came to
Coventry,
the Sister City to
Litchfield,
and join'd in the Title of See, which was for some little Time seated here, but afterwards return'd to
Litchfield.
Coventry
is a City of large Extent and populous, and drives a very great Trade: the Manufacture of Tammies is their chief Imploy, and next to that, weaving of Ribbons of the meanest kind, chiefly black. The Buildings are very old, and in some Places very much decayed; the Timber-built Houses project forwards into the Street towards one another, insomuch that in the narrow Streets they almost touch at the Top; a Method of Building formerly much practised in
London.
The Tale of the Lady
Godiva,
who rode naked thro' the High-Street of this City, to purchase its Exemption from oppressive Taxes, is held for so certain a Truth, that they will not have it question'd upon any Account whatsoever; and in Memory of it, the Inhabitants make a Procession yearly with a naked Figure of a Woman riding on Horse-back thro' the City; and the Picture of the poor Fellow who peep'd out of the Window to see her, is still kept up, looking out of a Garret in the High-Street of the City: but Mr.
Camden
says positively, nobody look'd at her at all. Two Parliaments have been held in this City, both remarkably denominated; one in the 6th of King
Henry
IV. called
Parliamentum Indoctorum
; the other in the 38th of King
Henry
VI. called
Parliamentum Diabolicum,
because of the Attainder pass'd in it against the House of
York
and its Partisans.
At the Restoration of King
Charles
II. the Walls and Towers of the City were demolish'd, by that Prince's Command, and only the Gates of it left standing; by which the Beauty and Strength of the rest may be guess'd at.
This City is a County incorporate of itself, and has a great many Towns within its Liberties, holds Pleas, and is govern'd by a Mayor, 10 Aldermen, and Sub-officers; but it had only Two Parish Churches, that of the
Holy Trinity,
and the Church of
St. Michael,
which were unable to hold half the Inhabitants, till the Year 1734, when an Act passed for making the Church of
Bablack
in
Coventry
a Parish Church, and for appointing a District or Parish thereto, and for enabling the Master and Usher of the Free Grammar-school within the said City, to be the Rector and Lecturer of the said Parish Church, for all time to come. This is called in the Act the Parish Church of St.
John the Baptist
in the City of
Coventry.
Besides these Three Churches and Parishes, it has Four Steeples; and the Cross is notedly one of its greatest Ornaments. The Roads are kept well pav'd to it for a Mile round. Here is a good Free-school, founded by
John Hales,
Esq
by the Name of the School of King
Henry
VIII. the Master of which is to be, for the future, the Minister of the new Parish Church, as I have mentioned. It has a good Library; and there is also an Hospital for the Poor. But here is no Cathedral, as some have falsly said; neither is the great Church, so called, either Collegiate or Conventual; but only a Monastery or Priory.
Yet this City contended a great while for thi
Honour, but could not carry it. In King
Henry
VIII.'s Time, the Priory being dissolv'd, the Church, which they would have call'd a Cathedral, was reduc'd to a private Parish Church, and continues so to this Day: 'tis also an Archdeaconry, and the Bishop is styled Bishop of
Litchfield
and
Coventry.
The Spire of the great Church is however very beautiful, and 100 Yards high. There is another good Church in the same Yard; the Cross, a fine
Gothick
Work, 66 Feet high; and in Niches are the Statues of several of the
English
Kings. At the South-end of the Town stands a tall Spire by itself, being what is left of the
Grey Friers
Conventual Church. The Town-house is worth seeing; the Windows of it are painted Glass, representing some of the old Kings, Earls,
&c.
who have been Benefactors to the Town.
And a Copy of
Latin
Verses are there to be read, in Praise of their Royal Benefactors, in which are named the
Edwards,
the
Henries,
the Black Prince, Queen
Elizabeth,
the Duke of
Northumberland,
and the great Earl of
Leicester.
From
Coventry
we could by no means pass the Town of
Warwick,
the Distance too being but about Six Miles, and a very pleasant Way on the Banks of the River
Avon:
'Tis famous for being the Residence of the great
Guy,
Earl of
Warwick,
of whom Tradition has deliver'd down to us so many hyperbolical Accounts, that it is hardly possible to distinguish his real Actions from what are fabulous. He flourished in the Reign of
Athelstane,
and decided the Fate of the Kingdom by Compact, in single Combat with
Colbrond
the
Dane,
a Man of gigantick Stature, whom he slew, and afterwards led a Hermit's Life, till his Death. They shew us here his Castle, his Helmet, his Sword, and tell abundance of things of him, which have some Appearance of History, tho' not much Authority to support them. So I leave that Part to the curious Searchers into Antiquity, who may consult Mr.
Camden, Rous, Dugdale,
and other Antiquaries on that Subject, who tell us the Castle was built before our Saviour's Time, and has been a Place of great Consideration ever since.
As to
Warwick,
it is really a fine Town, pleasantly situated on the Bank of the
Avon,
over which is a large and stately Bridge, the
Avon
being now grown a pretty large River.
Warwick
has suffer'd much from all Quarters. It was once destroy'd by the
Picts
and
Scots
; after which the famous
Caractacus
(who at the Head of the
Silures
oppos'd the
Romans
so long) rebuilt it, erecting there also a Palace for himself. Then the
Romans
under
Ostorius,
and after them the
Saxons,
greatly damaged it; and lastly, the ravaging
Danes
ruined it.
Tho' it was a Corporation by Prescription, yet it took a Charter from
Philip
and
Mary,
and since from
James
I. and is now governed by a Bailiff, and 12 Burgesses. It has a handsome Stone-built Market-house upheld by Pillars; and here is a good Free-school, and a well-endow'd Hospital for decayed Gentlemen. Tho' it has been always accounted a handsome well-built Town, yet the Face of it is now quite alter'd and improv'd; for having been almost wholly reduc'd to a Heap of Rubbish, by a terrible Fire, which happen'd the Fifth Day of
September
1694, by the mere Accident of a Spark being blown from a Stick, as it was carried cross a Lane, to the Damage of 96,000
l.
it was rebuilt by Act of Parliament, and that in so noble and beautiful a manner, that few Towns in
England
make so fine an Appearance.
The Church and lofty Tower is new-built, except the East-end, which is old, and very good Work. There are many fine Brass Monuments of the Earls of
Warwick,
and others; also one of the Earl of
Essex,
Queen
Elizabeth
's unhappy Favourite; and many Chapels and Confessionaries. In the Chapter-house on the North-side is a Tomb of the Lord
Brook.
The Castle stands upon the River
Avon
on a solid Rock, from whose Bowels that and the whole Town may be said to have been dug. The Terrace of the Castle, like that of
Windsor,
overlooks a beautiful Country, and sees the
Avon
running at the Foot of the Precipice, from above 50 Feet perpendicular Height; for the solid Rock, from the River on which it stands, it 40 Feet high, but on the North-side it is even with the Town. The Building is old, but has been often repair'd and beautify'd; and 'tis now a very agreeable Structure both within and without. The Apartments are very nicely contrived, and the Communication of the remotest Parts of the Building, one with another, is so well preserv'd by Galleries, and by the great Hall, which is very magnificent, that one finds no Irregularity in the whole Building, notwithstanding its antient Plan, as it was a Castle, built for Strength rather than a Palace to dwell in for Pleasure.
A Stone Bridge with a Dozen Arches is at the Castle; across is a Stone-work Dam, where the Water falls over it as a Cascade under the Castle Wall. It is fenc'd with a deep Mound, and strong embattled double Walls and lofty Towers. On one Side the Area is a very high Mount. There are good Apartments and Lodgings next the River, the Residence of the Lord
Brook.
The Priory, on the North-east of the Town overlooks a pleasant woody Vale. There are a great many curious original Pictures in the Castle, by
Vandyke
and other good Hands, of Kings, Queens, and other noble Personages, both
English
and Foreign.
A Mile out of Town, on the Side of a Hill, is a pretty retired Cell, called
Guy-cliff.
In an old Chapel is
Guy
's Statue, Eight Feet high. The Fence of the Court is intire Rock, in which are cut Stables and Out-houses. They shew'd us the rough Cave, where they say the famous
Guy
dy'd an Hermit.
While I was station'd, as I may say, at
Warwick,
I took a Turn about the Country, to view such Places of Note, as lay something out of my intended Rout. And first, passing a Rivulet, I came to the antient
Tripontium,
plac'd in a pleasant little Valley, the Sides of which are pretty steep. The Road on the opposite Hill looks perfectly like a Perspective-scene at the Theatre. This is a
Roman
Station, rightly plac'd at
Dovebridge
upon the
Avon,
running by
Rugby
to
Warwick.
The Stream here divides into two, with a Bridge over each. Upon one is a short Inscription in Stone, shewing the three Counties which repair it.
Near this Place, at
Legers-Ashby
in
Northamptonshire,
has been an old Town, as they say, destroy'd by the
Danes. Catesby,
who hatch'd the Powder-plot, own'd the Town.
We went on to
Daventry,
a considerable Market-town, govern'd by a Mayor, Aldermen, Steward, and 12 Freemen. It lies on the great Road to
Chester,
and is consequently a great Thorough-fare, and well furnish'd with good Inns; for it subsists chiefly by the great Concourse of Travellers that pass that way. It lies also on the old
Watling-street
Way. The Road was turn'd to pass through the Town, and runs on to
Dunsmore-heath,
where it crosses the
Fosse,
and one Branch goes on to
Coventry,
and the other joins the
Fosse,
and goes on to a Place call'd
High-cross,
of which further anon, where it falls into the old
Watling-street,
and both meet again near
Litchfield.
It is a most pleasant Curiosity to observe the Course of these old famous Highways, the
Ikenild
Way, the
Watling-street,
and the
Fosse
; in which one sees so lively a Representatation of the antient
British,
Roman
and
Saxon
Governments, that one cannot help recalling those Times to the Imagination; and though I am confin'd to such narrow Limits in this Work, yet a Circuit or Tour thro'
England
would be very imperfect, if I should take no Notice of these Ways, seeing in tracing them we necessarily come to the principal Towns, either that are or have been in every County; and likewise in mentioning their Remains, we give some Account of them as in their present State, which falls directly in with my Design.
From
Daventry
we went a little out of the Road, to see a great Camp, call'd
Burrow-hill,
upon the North End of an Eminence, cover'd over with Fern and and Goss. Here used to be kept a Horse-race. They say this was a
Danish
Camp, and every thing hereabouts is attributed to the
Danes,
because of the neighbouring
Daventry,
which they suppose to be built by them. The Road hereabouts too being overgrown with Daneweed, they fansy it sprung from the Blood of the
Danes,
slain in Battle; and that if upon a certain Day in the Year you cut it, it bleeds. Originally, it seems to have been
Roman,
but perhaps new-modell'd by the
Danes.
In
Norton
Town Road a
Cornu Ammonis
lies neglected, too big to bring away.
At
Weedon
is shewn the Scite of King
Wolfhere
's Palace; the
Saxon
Kings of this Province residing here. The Pastures call'd,
The Ashes
are the
Roman
Camp. St.
Werberg,
Daughter of King
Wolfhere,
and Abbess to the Nunnery in this Place, had here a Chapel. Abundance of very fine Stone, and many
Roman
Coins, have been dug up.
Weedon
now contains two Parishes, and has been a Market-town.
Towcester
is a considerable Town between two Rivulets, which encompass it almost round.
Old Stretford
stands on the opposite Side of the
Owse
to
Stony-Stratford
; in the Fields thereabouts are found many
Roman
Coins.
A little North of the
Horseshoe-inn
stood Queen
Eleanor
's Cross, which was pull'd down in the Civil Wars.
To the West of
Stretford
stands
Whaddon-hall,
upon very high Ground, affording a most beautiful Prospect. This Manor formerly belong'd to the Lords
Grey
; one of whom, a Knight of the Garter, is buried in the Church. Here is the original Picture of Dr.
Willis,
the Progenitor of the present Possessor, with many of his MSS. Letters, Consultations, Lectures, and other Works unpublish'd. The Poets
Spencer
and the Duke of
Bucks
honour'd this Place with their Residence. Still higher stands
Stukely:
The Church is very intire, tho' built before the Conquest, in the plain antient manner.
I now come to
Northampton,
the handsomest Town in all this Part of
England
; but here, as at
Warwick,
the Beauty of it is owing to its Disaster; for it was so effectually burnt down, that very few Houses were left standing; and, altho' the Fire began in the Day-time, the Flame spread itself with such Fury, and Speed, that they tell us, a Townsman being two Miles off, upon a Hill, on the South-side of the Town, saw the Fire at one End of it, just as it began; and before he could reach the Town, with all the Speed he could, the other End was in Flames also. 'Tis now finely rebuilt with Brick and Stone, and the Streets made spacious and wide. It has four Churches, two Hospitals, and a Charity-school well endow'd. The Market-place is square and spacious; the Assize-house is built after the
Corinthian
Order.
Allhallows
Church is a pretty Edifice, with a Cupola, and a noble Portico, before it, of 8 lofty
Ionick
Columns. Upon the Balustrade is a Statue of King
Charles
II. It is situate on the River
Nyne,
over which there are two handsome Bridges, and is walled in; and on the West side are the Remains of an old Castle, upon an Eminence. 'Tis govern'd by a Mayor, two Bailiffs, a Recorder,
&c. All-Saints
Church before-mention'd stands in a Centre, where four large spacious Streets terminate. The publick Buildings are esteem'd the finest that can be seen in any County-town in
England,
being all new-built. But that Writer took very little Notice of
Northampton,
or rather had never seen it, who told us of a Cathedral, a Chapter-house, and a Cloyster.
The great Inn called the
George,
at the Corner of the High-Street, looks more like a Palace than an Inn, and cost above 2000
l.
building; and so generous was the Owner, that, as we were told, when he had built it, he gave it to the Poor of the Town.
This is counted the Centre of all the Horse-Markets, and Horse-Fairs in
England,
there being here no less than four Fairs in a Year. And indeed
Northampton
is reckoned the Navel of
England.
Here they buy Horses of all Sorts, as well for the Saddle as for the Coach and Cart; and hither
ll the Jockeys from
London
resort to purchase Horses.
Near
Northampton
is the antient Royal House of
Holmeby,
which was formerly in great Esteem, and by its Situation is capable of being made a truly Royal Palace. But the melancholy Reflection of the Imprisonment of King
Charles
I. in this House, and his being violently taken hence again by the Rebels, has cast a kind of Disgrace upon the Place, so that it has been forsaken. The House and Estate was purchas'd by the Duchess of
Marlborough,
and became Part of the Jointure which was settled on the Marchioness of
Blandford.
It is at present possessed by a Farmer, who has pull'd down Part of the Out-houses, and converted the remaining Part into Barns, Stables,
&c.
A little way off of
Northampton
is
Naseby,
where the bloody and fatal Battle was fought between the Royalists and Parliamentarians, upon a fine Plain, where at present stands a Wind-mill; and on it, are the Marks of several great Holes, where the Slain were buried; and near this is
Guildsborough,
so nam'd from a
Roman
Camp, of a square Form, and deep Ditch, called
The Burrows.
The Town of
Towcester
is of large Extent, and very populous; and having but one Parish Church, which is two Miles distant from the Hamlet of
Althorpe
and
Foxcoate,
in which there was a Chapel of
ase, but officiated in only once a Month, by the Vicar of
Towcester,
though 'tis computed there are 400 Souls in the said Hamlet, who in the Winter-time cannot attend Divine Service at
Towcester
; and several Benefactions having been given, in case the said Hamlet should be erected into a Parish: For all these Reasons, an Act passed, Sess. 1737. for making the Chapel in the Hamlet of
Althorpe
and
Foxc
te
a Parish Church, and for appointing a District or Parish thereto; and, according to the Condition of one of the Benefactions, enabling the Master of the Free Grammar-school, within the said Hamlet, to be Vicar of the new Parish Church.
The Seat of the Earl of
Pomfret,
near
Towcester,
is a stately Building, and stands pleasantly amidst good Plantations of Wood, Vista's, and fine Prospects. In the grand View to the back Front, beyond the Garden, is a large and long Canal. Several curious Pictures are in the House. But what inhances the Glory of this Seat is, the vast Number of
Greek
and
Roman
Marbles, Statues, Busto's, Bas-reliefs, Urns, Altars,
&c.
Part of the invaluable Collection of the great Earl of
Arundel,
and which are worthy of a Journey through half the Globe to behold. The Hall is a fine lofty Room, and the great Stairs are painted in Fresco by Sir
James Thornhill.
Towcester
is a pretty Town of
Roman
Antiquity; through which, in a strait Line, runs the
Watling-street.
The Inhabitants of all Ages are here imploy'd in a silken Manufacture, and Lace-making. The Town consists of one long Street, and is almost intirely incompass'd with Water.
The House late the Earl of
Sunderland
's, at
Althorpe,
now belonging to the Hon.
John Spencer,
Esq
Brother to his Grace the present Duke of
Marlborough,
who is Earl of
Sunderland,
has within these few Years changed its Face to much Advantage. This antient Seat was rebuilt with great Improvement, by
Robert
Earl of
Sunderland,
Grandfather to the present Duke of
Marlborough
; and is particularly noted for a magnificent Gallery, furnish'd with a large Collection of curious Paintings, by the best Hands.
The Park is laid out and planted, after the Manner of that at
Greenwich,
and was design'd by
Le Notre,
the same Person who planted St.
James
's Park, and
Cassioberry
; as also several other Parks and Gardens in
England.
There is a noble Piece of Water here, on which is lately built a fine Vessel, completely equipp'd; as his Grace the Duke of
Bedford
has also at his Seat at
Woburn-Abbey.
There is likewise on this Water a fine
Venetian
Gondola, Canoes,
&c.
But this Water is situated too near the House, and occasions so great a Damp, that some of the Pictures in the Gallery are mildew'd thereby.
At a convenient Distance from the House, is lately built a handsome Square of Offices, and near these is a large Kitchen-Garden finely walled and planted, in which is a handsome Building, for the Residence of the Gardener, which is a Model of an
Italian
Villa.
From hence we went North towards
Harborough,
and in the Way, in the Midst of deep dismal Roads, the dirtiest and worst in all that Part of the Country, we saw
Boughton,
the noble Seat of the Duke of
Montagu,
a House built by the first Duke, very much after the Model of the Palace of
Versailles
; the treble Wings projecting and expanded, forming a Court or Space wider and wider, in proper Stades, answerable to the Wings, the Body of the House closing the whole View.
The Hall is a very noble Room; on the Ceiling is a Convocation of the Gods, admirably painted, as are many Suites of Rooms, Stair-cases, Galleries,
&c.
beside the great Number of Portraits and other curious Pictures. The Gardens contain 90 Acres, adorn'd with Statues, Flower-pots, Urns of Marble and Metal, many very large Basons, with Variety of Fountains playing, Aviaries, Reservoirs, Fish-ponds, Canals, Wildernesses, Terraces,
&c.
The Cascade is very fine, and a whole River running thro' the Length of the Gardens, is diversify'd most agreeably to complete its Beauty.
The Park is walled round with Brick, and so finely planted with Trees, and in such an excellent Order, that I saw nothing more beautiful, no not in
Italy
itself, except that the Walks of Trees were not Orange and Lemon, and Citron, as it is in
Naples,
and the
Abruzzo,
and other Southern Parts of
Italy.
A Mile off is
Geddington,
where, in a Trivium, stands one of the Stone Crosses, built by King
Edward
I. in Memory of his Queen
Eleanor.
These are said to be the Places where the Corps of that Princess rested, and Crosses erected,
viz. Lincoln, Newark, Leicester, Geddington, Northampton, Stony-Stratford, Dunstable, St. Albans, Waltham, Cheapside, Charing-cross.
On
Willoughby
Side of the Road is an Hillock, call'd
Cross-hill,
where the Country-people observe an anniversary Festival.
Willoughby
Brook plays in delightful Meanders along a Valley between Cornfields, with a moderate Water, unless raised by Rains. Here several brass and silver Coins have been found, and some of Gold. The People have a Notion of great Riches being hid under-ground; and there is a vulgar Report, that under one
Balk
or
Mere,
that is, Division, between the ploughed Fields, there is as much Money, as would purchase the whole Lordship; but they dare not dig, they pretend, for fear of Spirits. Mosaic Pavements, Coins, Pot-hooks, Fire-shovels,
&c.
have been also found.
In
Willoughby
Town is an handsome Cross of one Stone, five Yards long. The Parliament Soldiers had ty'd Ropes about it to pull it down; but the Vicar quench'd their Zeal with some strong Beer, after having harangued them concerning its Innocence.
At
Cossington,
near the River
Wrek,
is a vast Barrow, 350 Feet long, 120 broad, 40 high, or near it, very handsomely work'd up on the Sides, and very steep. It is call'd
Shipley-hill,
from a great Captain of that Name, who, they say, was here buried. On the Top are several oblong doubled Trenches cut in the Turf, where the Lads and Lasses of the adjacent Villages meet on
Easter-monday
to recreate themselves with Cakes and Ale.
At
Erdborough
is a strong
Roman
Camp, 800 Feet long, of a delightful Prospect. Near it is a petrifying Spring.
But I must not omit, as I had like to have done, the Town of
Wellingborough
in the County of
Northampton.
It was a large, well-built, and well-inhabited Town, with a fine Church, and Free-school. A dreadful Fire which happen'd here in
July
1738, has made the Town still more beautiful, tho' the Occasion was too melancholy to be wish'd for. It began at a Dyer's House in the Town, about two in the Afternoon, and in the Space of Six Hours consumed near 220 Houses, besides Out-houses, Barns, Stables,
&c.
amounting in the Whole to upwards of 800, mostly in the South and East Parts of the Town. The Wind being high, and but little Water to be had, the Fire was so fierce and violent, that it seem'd to break out at twenty Places at once, and the Inhabitants were in such Confusion, that but few of them had Time to save any Goods, and many only the Cloaths on their Backs. As it happen'd chiefly among the Trading Men and Farmers, the Loss upon them was very heavy. But it was a good deal alleviated by the signal Charity of the neighbouring Gentlemen and others, which saved many of the poor Sufferers from perishing for Want.
In the Month of
March,
following this dreadful Fire, another happen'd at
Findon,
two Miles from
Wellingborough,
which consumed 16 Houses.
From
Boughton
we went on to
Harborough,
a good Market-town, and great Thorough-fare, intending to go forward to
Leicester
; but Curiosity turn'd us West a little, to see an old Town call'd
Lutterworth,
famous for being the Birth-place of
John Wickliff,
the first Preacher of the Reformation in
England,
whose Disciples were afterwards called
Lollards.
The Church was lately beautify'd, and pav'd with a costly Pavement of chequer'd Stone; and the Pews are new, and every thing in it both in Church and Chancel, except the Pulpit, of thick Oak-Planks, six-square, which is preserv'd on account of its being
Wickliff
's Pulpit.
Being thus got a little out of our Way, we turn'd West into the
Watling-street
Way, at
High-cross,
where the Foss crosses it, and which, I suppose, occasion'd the Name, leaving
Rugby
in
Warwickshire,
a small Town, noted only for a great Number of Butchers, on the South-west of us. At this Cross we seem'd to be in the Centre, and highest Ground of
England
; for from hence Rivers run every way. The
Fosse
went across the Back-side of our Inn, and so towards
Bath.
Here are divers
Roman
Antiquities: its antient Appellation was
Benonis.
The late Earl of
Denbigh,
and the Gentlemen in the Neighbourhood, erected here a Cross of an handsome Design, but of mouldering Stone, thro' the Deceit of the Architect. It consists of four
Dorick
Columns, regarding the four Roads, with a gilded Globe and Cross at-top, upon a Sun-dial. On two Sides, between the four
Tuscan
Pillars, which compose a sort of Pedestal, are these Inscriptions:
Vicinarum provinciarum, Vervicensis scilicet & Leicestrensis, ornamenta, proceres patriciique, auspiciis illustrissimi Basilii comitis de Denbigh, hanc columnam statuendam curaverunt, in gratam pariter & perpetuam memoriam Jani tandem a serenissima Anna clausi, A. D.
M.DCC.XII.
Thus translated:
The Noblemen and Gentry, Ornaments of the neighbouring Counties of
Warwick
and
Leicester,
at the Instances of the Right Honourable
Basil
Earl of
Denbigh,
have caused this Pillar to be erected, in grateful as well as perpetual Remembrance of Peace at length restored by her Majesty Queen
Anne,
in the Year of our Lord M.DCC.XII.
The Inscription on the other Side runs thus:
Si veterum Romanorum vestigia quaeras, hic cernas, viator. Hic enim celeberrimae illorum viae militares sese mutuo secantes ad extremos usque Britanniae limites pr
currunt: hic stativa sua habuerunt Vennones; & ad primum abhinc lapidem castra sua ad Stratam, & ad Fossam tumulum, Claudius quidam cohortis praefectus habuisse videtur.
Which may be thus rendered:
If, Traveller, you search for the Foot-steps of the antient
Romans,
here you may behold them. For here their most celebrated military Ways, crossing one another, extend to the utmost Boundaries of
Britain:
Here the
Vennones
kept their Quarters; and at the Distance of one Mile from hence,
Claudius,
a certain Commander of a Cohort, seems to have had a Camp towards the
The
Watling-street,
simply call'd
The Street,
by way of Eminence.
Street,
and towards the
Fosse
a Tomb.
The
Watling-street,
measuring from
Chester
thro'
London
and
Dover,
makes a strait Line with
Rome.
Which seems to have been so contriv'd by the great Founders, that in travelling upon it they might have the Satisfaction of reflecting, that they were going upon the Line which led to the Capital of the Empire.
To proceed, we kept the Street-way till we came into the
Leicester
Road, which we followed East to
Hinkley,
a Market-town, situate on a Hill very pleasantly. This Town is noted for a large handsome Church, and a high Spire-Steeple all of Stone, in which is a Chime of excellent Bells.
From hence we turn'd North-west, and came to
Nun-Eaton,
an ordinary manufacturing Town, on the River
Anker,
and then Northward to
Atherston
; and so made a kind of serpentizing Tour of it along the Borders of the two Counties of
Warwick
and
Leicester,
sometimes in one and sometimes in the other.
Atherston
is a Market-town famous for a great Cheese-Fair, on the 8th of
September,
from whence the Cheese-Factors carry the vast Quantities of Cheese they buy to
Sturbridge
Fair, which begins about the same Time, but holds much longer; and here 'tis sold again for the Supply of the Counties of
Essex, Suffolk,
and
Norfolk.
A little North-west of
Atherston
stands
Polesworth,
formerly a Market-town; but since the Dissolution of a famous Nunnery, which was there, the Market was discontinued.
From
Atherston
we turn'd East again, into
Leicestershire,
to see
Bosworth-field,
famous for the great Battle which put an End to the Reign of
Richard
III. and to the long and bloody Contention between the
Red Rose
and the
White,
or the two Royal Houses of
York
and
Lancaster
; which, as Fame tells us, had cost the Lives of 11 Princes, 23 Earls and Dukes, 3000 Noblemen, Knights, and Gentlemen, and 200,000 of the common People. We view'd the Spot of Ground where the Battle was fought; and at the Town they shew'd us several Pieces of Swords, Heads of Lances, Barbs of Arrows, Pieces of Pole-Axes, and such-like Instruments of Death, which they said were found by the Country People in the several Grounds near the Place of Battle, as they had occasion to dig, or trench, or plough up the Ground.
Within three Miles of this Place is an antient Market-town, of the same Name, lying on a Hill, in a very healthy and pleasant Air. The Soil all round it is fruitful, both for Tillage and Pasture.
Hence I pass'd directly North to
Ashby de la Zouch,
on the Skirts of
Derbyshire,
a very pleasant Town, lying between two Parks. It consists but of one Street, in which stands a pretty Stone Cross; the Church is large and handsome, and 'tis famous for four good Horse-Fairs in the Year.
We then pass'd South-east into
Leicestershire.
The Earl of
Stamford
has a good old Hunting-seat on this Side of the Country, call'd
Bradgate,
and a fine Park at
Grooby
; but they were too much out of our Way: so we came on thro' a fine Forest to
Leicester.
Leicester
is an antient large and populous Town, containing five Parishes; 'tis the Capital of the County of that Name, and stands on the River
Soar,
which rises not far from
High-cross,
just mention'd: It is a Borough and Corporation Town, whereof the chief Magistrate is a Mayor, who is assisted by a Recorder, Aldermen, and Common-council. Here are three Markets weekly, well supply'd with Provisions. A considerable Manufacture is carry'd on here, and in several of the Market-towns around, for weaving of Stockens by Frames; and one would scarce think it possible so small an Article of Trade could imploy such Multitudes of People as it does; for the whole County seems to be busy'd in it: as also
Nottingham
and
Derby,
of which hereafter.
The County of
Leicester
is in part also taken up in Country Business, more particularly in breeding and feeding Cattle. Most of the Gentlemen are Grasiers, and in some Places the Grasiers are so rich, that they grow Gentlemen; 'tis not an uncommon thing for Grasiers here to rent Farms from 500
l.
to 2000
l.
a Year.
The Sheep bred in this County and
Lincolnshire,
which joins to it, are, without Comparison, the largest, and bear not only the greatest Weight of Flesh on their Bones, but also the greatest Fleeces of Wool on their Backs, of any Sheep in
England:
and hence it is, that these Counties becomes vast Magazines of Wool for the rest of the Nation. Nor is the Wool less fine because of the great Quantity; but as 'tis the longest
Staple,
as the Clothiers call it, so it is the finest Wool in the whole Island, some few Places excepted; such as
Leominster
in
Herefordshire,
the South Downs in
Sussex,
and such little Places, where the Quantity is small and insignificant, compar'd to this Part of the Country; for the Sheep-breeding Country reaches from the River
Anker,
on the Border of
Warwickshire,
to the
Humber,
at the farthest End of
Lincolnshire,
which is near 100 Miles in Length; and from the Bank of
Trent,
in
Lincolnshire
and
Leicestershire,
to the Bank of
Ouse,
bordering on
Bucks, Bedford, Cambridge,
and
Huntingdon
Shires, above 60 Miles in Breadth.
These are the Funds of Sheep which furnish the City of
London
with their large Mutton, in such prodigious Quantities. There are indeed a few Sheep of a large Breed, which are brought up from
Romney Marsh,
and the adjoining low Grounds in
Kent
and
Sussex
; but they are few, and indeed scarce worth naming, compar'd to what are produc'd in these Counties.
The Horses bred, or rather fed here, are the largest in
England,
being generally the great black Coach and Dray-horses; of which so great a Number are continually sent up to
London,
that one would think so little a Spot as this of
Leicestershire,
could not possibly produce so many. But the adjoining Counties of
Northampton
and
Bedford
have of late come into the same Business. The chief Supply, however, is from this County, from whence the other Counties rather buy them, and feed them up as Jockeys and Chapmen, than breed them up from their Beginning.
In the South-west Part of the Country rise four considerable Second-rate Rivers, which run every one a directly contrary Course in a most remarkable Manner.
1. The
Avon,
which runs by
Rugby,
and goes away to
Warwick
South-west.
Of this River the Poet elegantly sings:
Yet rolling
Avon
still maintains its Stream,
Swell'd with the Glories of the
Roman
Name.
Strange Pow'r of Fate!
Unshaken
Moles must waste,
While Things that ever
move,
for ever
last.
2. The
Soar,
which runs by
Leicester,
and goes away to the
Trent,
North-west.
3. The
Anker,
which runs by
Nun-Eaton,
and goes away to
Atherston,
North; and so on to
Tamworth,
West.
4. The
Welland,
which runs by
Harborough,
and goes away to
Stamford,
North-east.
I ought not to omit observing, that as the Town of
Leicester
was formerly very strong and well fortify'd, being advantageously situated for that Purpose, the River covering it half way about, so it was again fortify'd in the late unhappy Wars, and being garison'd by the Parliament Forces, was assaulted by the Royalists, who, after an obstinate Defence, took it Sword in Hand, which occasion'd a terrible Slaughter. They preserve here a most remarkable Piece of Antiquity, being a Piece of
Mosaick
Work at the Bottom of a Cellar; 'tis the Story of
Acteon,
and his being kill'd by his own Hounds, wrought as a Pavement, in a most exquisite Manner; the Stones are only of two Colours, White, and Brown, and very small.
The Castle here, before it was dismantled, was a prodigious Building. It was the Court of the great
Henry
Duke of
Lancaster,
who added to it 26 Acres of Ground; which he inclos'd with a very strong Wall of square Stone, 18 Feet high, and called it his
Novum opus,
vulgarly now the
Newark,
where the best Houses in or near
Leicester
are, and do still continue extra-parochial. The Hall and Kitchen of this Place remain still intire, as Testimonies of the Grandeur of the Whole; the former being so lofty and spacious, that the Courts of Justice, which in Assize-time are held there, are at such a Distance, as to give no Disturbance to one another. There are several Gate-ways to enter this Palace; and that which faces the East, has an Arch that is deemed a curious Piece of Architecture; over which in the Tower is kept the Magazine for the Militia of the County.
Beneath this Castle was a very fair Collegiate Hospital, in the Church whereof,
Henry
Earl of
Lancaster,
and
Henry
his Son the first Duke of it, were bury'd; the Hospital was built by the Duke in his old Age, and appropriated for the Maintenance of 100 poor People, in which also he placed a Dean and twelve Canons, Prebendaries, with as many Vicars and other Ministers, and ten able Women to serve and assist the Poor and Weak. This, with Divine Service therein, doth in some measure still subsist by certain Stipends paid out of the Duchy of
Lancaster.
Another Hospital built by Sir
William Wigston,
in the Reign of King
Henry
VIII. is in a very flourishing Condition there.
Leicester
is the
Ratae Coritanorum
of the
Romans.
The Trace of the
Roman
Wall is discoverable without Difficulty, especially in the Gardens about
Senvygate,
with a Ditch, which is very visible. This was repair'd by
Edelfleda,
a noble
Saxon
Lady, in the Year 914. The old Work call'd
Jewry-wall
is composed of Rag-stone, and
Roman
Brick.
Not far off is a Place call'd
Holy-bones,
where abundance of Bones of Oxen have been dug up, which were the Remains of the
Roman
Sacrifices.
At
Leicester
many
Roman
Coins are found; a Pot full of them was dug up at the Entrance into
Whitefriers.
There are also many great Foundations. At St.
Mary de Pree
's Abbey a Body was dug up, supposed to be Cardinal
Wolsey
's.
Since its Dissolution it has been made a Dwelling-house, which has nothing left but the naked Walls, and the Spot of the Abbey is turned into a Garden. The only thing worth seeing in it, is a pleasant Terrace-walk, supported by an embattled Wall, with Lunets hanging over the River, and shaded with Trees.
In the Time of the
Saxons, St. Margaret
's Church was an episcopal See, and was very fine. Here, say some, King
Richard
III. was buried.
Half a Mile Southward from
Leicester,
upon the Edge of the Meadows, is a long Ditch, call'd
Rawdikes
; on the Banks of which, according to Tradition, King
Charles
I. stood to behold the Storm of the Town. That Prince lay at the Vicarage-house at
Elston.
South-east of
Leicester
lies
Billesden,
a Market-town of no Note: and further South still, is
Hallaton,
another Town noted for its Poverty, in the midst of a rich Soil.
The
Fosse-way
leads from hence through the North-west Part of this County; but entering
Nottinghamshire,
it inclines North-east, through the Vale of
Belvoir,
or, as it is commonly call'd, of
Bever,
to
Newark.
In all this long Tract, we pass through a rich and fertile Country, having in our Coast North-eastward the noble River
Trent,
for twenty Miles together, often in our View.
But some Miles North of
Leicester
the River
Wrek,
which comes from the North-east, and the
Stour,
which runs North-west, form a kind of Y; the
Stour
from
Leicester
Southward making the Tail. In the Course last-mentioned we passed through
Montsorrel
and
Loughborough,
both Market-towns, lying on the
Fosse,
which runs nearly parallel with the
Stour,
and makes one Side of the Y. The first is situate under a great Eminence, and has a good Stone Bridge over the
Stour
; and the other is seated among rich Meadow-ground, and is a fine agreeable Town. And on the
Wrek,
which makes the other Side of the Y, stand
Melton Mowbray,
a large well-built considerable Market-town, situate in a fertile Soil, almost surrounded with a little River, call'd the
Eye,
over which it has two fine Bridges; and also
Waltham on the Would,
(
i. e.
on the Downs) which is but a mean Market-town.
Belvoir-castle,
standing within
Lincolnshire,
but on the Edge of
Leicestershire,
is a truly noble Situation, tho' on a very high Precipice; 'tis the antient Seat of the Dukes of
Rutland,
a Family risen by just Degrees to an immense Height both of Honour and Wealth. I shall mention the House again in my Return out of
Lincolnshire.
Bingham
in
Nottinghamshire
lying in our Way to
Newark,
we pass'd through it. It is but a small Market-town, but is noted for a Parsonage of great Value.
At
Newark
one can hardly see, without Regret, the Ruins of that famous Castle, which through all the civil War in
England,
kept a strong Garison for the King to the last, and so cut off the greatest Pass into the North that is in the whole Kingdom; nor was it ever taken, 'till the King, press'd by the Calamity of his Affairs, put himself into the Hands of the
Scots
Army, which lay before it, and then commanded the Governor to deliver it up; after which it was demolish'd, that the great Road might lie open and free; and it remains in Rubbish to this Day.
The Castle was built here by
Alexander
Bishop of
Lincoln,
in the Reign of King
Stephen
; and the Town took its Name from that New Work.
This Town was certainly rais'd from the neighbouring
Roman
Cities, and has been wall'd about with their Remains. The Northern Gate is composed of Stones seemingly of a
Roman
Cut: and perhaps they had a Town here; for many Antiquities are found about it. Here are two fine Stone Crosses. A Gentleman, digging to plant some Tree by the
Fosse
Road Side, discover'd four Urns in a strait Line, and at equal Distances, in one of which was a brass
Lar,
or Houshold-God, an Inch and half long, but much consum'd by Rust.
Newark
is a very handsome well-built Town, situate on the
Trent,
under the Government of a Mayor and 12 Aldermen. The Market-place is a noble Square, and the Church is large and spacious, with a curious Spire, which, were not
Grantham
so near, might pass for the finest and highest in all this Part of
England.
The
Trent
divides itself here, and makes an Island, and the Bridges lead just to the Foot of the Castle Wall; so that, while this Place was in the Hands of any Party, as I have before hinted, there was no Travelling but by their Leave; but all the Travelling into the North at that Time was by
Nottingham
Bridge.
I am, Sir, yours, &c.
The END of the SECOND VOLUME.
INDEX TO THE SECOND VOLUME.
A
ABbot
of
Glastenbury,
his prodigious State and Riches
Pag. 29, 30.
His Inn
33
Abbots Langley 167
Abergavenny 311
Abermenai
Ferry
326
Aberystwith 322
Abingdon 61, 62, 63
Abury 51
Acteon,
Mosaick Work representing that Fable
375
Acton,
Sir
Thomas 295
Adam
of
Scott,
his Monument
54
Adams,
Mr. his noble Benefactions
348
Adrian IV.
Pope, his Pride, and shameful Avarice
167
Aethelfleda,
Queen
297
Alabaster,
where found
21
St.
Alban 174.
Inscription on his Shrine
176
St.
Alban, Robert,
gives Name to
Alban-hall p. 222
St.
Albans 174
to
178
Albemarle,
Earl of
164
Alcester 289
Aldbury 172
Aldchester 207
Aldely 251
Aldrich,
Dr.
217
Alexander,
Bishop of
Lincoln 378
Alfred,
King
47, 61, 209, 231
Allen,
Mr. his Generosity and Publick Spirit, an Honour to
Bath 263, 265, 266
Alney,
Isle
283
Althorpe 365, 366
Altringham 340
Alwinus,
Bishop of
Winchester 243
Amersham 203
Amsty 192
Amwell 199
Anderson,
Sir
Richard 171
Anglesey,
Isle
325, 327, 328
Anker,
River
371, 373, 375
St.
Anne
's Hill
51
Anne,
Queen, improves
Kensington 159.
Dies there
160.
Her Statue, and Character by the Duchess of
Marlborough 180, 181.
Another Statue
209.
Frighted at
Lansdown-hill 263
Arbury
Banks
190
Archenfield 303
Ariconium
ibid.
Arthur,
King
4.
His Well
27.
Where bury'd
28, 29.
Nephew to St.
David 320
Arthur,
Prince
292, 300
Arundel,
Earl of, his Marbles
228, 365
Arundel, Trerice 3
Arundel, Wardour
ibid.
As sure as God's at
Gloucester, whence deduced
282
St.
Asaph 330, 331
Ash,
the Stream
199
Ashbury 62
Ashby de la Zouch 372
The
Ashes 362
Ashridge 172
Ashwell 189, 190
Astal 243
Astroites 251
Athelstane,
King
43, 44
Atherston 371
Atherstone 252
Audley,
Lord, defeated
348
Augustine
's Oak
297
Avon,
River
37, 38, 44, 47, 250, 251, 265, 275, 277, 286, 287, 288, 289, 358, 359, 360, 361, 374
Aust
Ferry
p. 277, 278, 279, 310
Axbridge 34
Axe
River ibid.
Axtel,
Col. a Parliament Officer
169
Aylesbury 203
B
Bacon,
Lord, his Monument and Inscription
178, 179
Badmington 51, 267
Badminton 25
Baldock 187, 188
Baliol, John 209
Bampton 243, 244
Banbury 206, 207
Banbury,
Earl of
207
Banchor 332
Bangor 328, 329.
Its Bishops, how immortal
329
Barker,
Mr. his Seat
161
Barkhamsted 168
to
170
Barkway 191, 192
Barnstable
Town, Haven, and Bay
9, 10, 11, 12
Barnstable
Water
13
Bath 253
to
265
Bath
Waters, their Virtues
256
to
258
Battle-edge 242
Battlefield 344
Beachwood
Manor
173
Beacon-ash 27
Beaconsfield 202
Beane,
River
184, 185
Beaudesert 352
Beaufort,
Duke of
267, 310
Beaumaris 327, 328
Beaumonds 230
Becket,
Archbishop
p. 205
Bedford,
Duke of
366
Beeston-castle 338, 339
Bel-size 156
Belvoir-castle 377, 378
Benington-place 185
Benonis 370
Bensford 43
Berkeley 280
Berkeley,
Earl of ibid.
Berkeley, Robert,
Esq
his Hospital
294
Beryslade 187
Betley 350
Bewdley 296
Bicester 207
Bidiford 9, 10, 11, 12
Billesden 377
Bingham 378
Birmingham 296
Bisham 68
Bishop,
Mr.
Richard,
discovers a
Roman
Work
247
Bishops-castle 298
Bishops-mott
ibid.
Bishop-Stortford,
and its famous School
194
to
196
Bisse,
Bishop
305
Blackdown
Hills
18
Black
Mountains
315, 324
Blackston-hill 297
Bladud,
King
253
Blake,
Admiral
22
Blake's-ware 199
Blathwait,
Mr. his Seat
267
Bleachly 278, 310
Blenheim-house 232
to
239
Bloreheath 348
Blorench 313
Bloxham 240
Blundel, Peter,
the Clothier, founds
Tiverton
Freeschool
p. 15
Blunt,
Sir
Henry Pope,
his Seat
182
Boadicea,
Queen
174
The
Boar,
what
23, 278, 298
Bodley,
Sir
Thomas 228
Bodmyn 4
Boreman, Richard,
Abbot of
St. Albans 175
Boscobel-house 346
Bossiney 4
Bosworth-field 372
Botelers,
their Seat
184
Boughton 366, 367
Bow 154
Bowditch 268
Brackley 205, 206
Bradford 36, 38, 47
Bradford,
Earl of, his Seat
161, 296
Bradgate 372
Brampton-Brian 302
Mrs.
Branch,
and her Daughter executed
26
Branonium 290
Brass-mills 68
Braughing 191, 193, 194
Bray,
Vicar of
69
Brecknock 313
Brecknock-mere
ibid.
Brecknockshire
describ'd
312, 313, 314
Breewood 350
Brentford 162
Brews,
River
43
Bridge
from
Fulham
to
Putney 159
Bridgenorth 297, 298
Bridgwater 22, 28
Bridgwater,
Duke of
p. 172, 342
Brightwell 240
Bristol 268
to
277
Bristol
Stones
251
Bristol
Waters, their Virtues
p. 272, 273
Broadway 296
Brockly-hill 165
Bromley 154, 352
Brook,
Lord
360
Broomsgrove 295
Broxbourn 200
Broxbournbury
ibid.
Bruce,
Lord
51, 52, 161
Bruton 27, 43
Buckingham 205
Buckingham,
Sir
Owen 65
Bucks,
Duke of
363
Bulborn,
Rivulet
172
Bulkeley,
Bishop of
Bangor,
his Sacrilege
328
Buntingford 193
Burford 242
Burlington,
Earl of, the
English Vitruvius 52.
his Seat
161.
See also
Vol. III.
Page
287
Burrow-hill 362
The
Burrows 365
Burton
upon
Trent 352
Bush-draining,
what
163
Bushy-heath 158
Byde, Thomas,
Esq
his Seat
198
C
Cadbury-castle 26, 27
Cadby, William,
the Gardener, his Collection of Gods
p. 49
Cadogan,
Earl
66
Caer Bladdon,
a
British
Prince
43
Caerdiff 315
Caermarthen p. 317, 318 325
Caernarvon 325
Caernarvonshire
described
325, 327
Caerphyli-castle 316
Caerwys 331
Caesar
Family
185
Caesar, Julius,
takes
Verulam 174
Calne 49
Camalet 26
Camel,
River
3, 4
Camelford
ibid.
Campden 287
Cannings,
Mr.
William,
his Monument
273
Cantilupe,
the Miracle-monger
305
Capels,
Earls of Essex
196
Caractacus
rebuilds
Warwick 359
Cardigan 321
Cardiganshire
described
322
Carey, Edward,
Esq
168
Carlos,
Col.
346
Caroline,
Queen, adorns
Kensington 159.
Her Munificence, and Statue
212
Carran,
River
287
Cassibelan,
King
174
Cassioberry 165, 166
Castellum Danis 3
Castle-Carey 43
Castle
Inn
70
Castlecomb p. 47
Catesby,
the Traitor
361
Catharine,
Infanta of
Spain 292
Cavesham 66
Cawley
Wood
p. 17
Cestria Chersonesus, 334, 335
St.
Chad
's Shrine
355
Chamber
on the Forest
338
Chandos,
Duke of.
157, 158, 164
Charles I.
engages the Parliament Army twice at
Newbury 58.
Where buried
82.
A Benefactor to
Queen's College
in
Oxford 211.
His and his Queen's Statues
219.
His Picture
232.
His Imprisonment
364
Charles II.
his Equestrian Statue
75.
His Jest on the Visible Church
202.
His Escape after
Worcester
Fight
291, 346.
His Royal Gratitude
347.
Charwell,
River
206
Chaucer,
Sir
Geoffrey 60.
Commends
John de Gadesden 172
Chauncy,
Sir
Harry,
commits
Jane Wenman 185
Cheaping-Barnet 164
Chedder 34
Cheese
Trade
40
to
42
Chelsea 160
Cheltenham 284
to
286
Cheltenham
Waters, their Virtues
285, 286
Chepstow p. 310
Chesham 203
Cheshire
described
337, 338, 341
Cheshunt
Common
197
Chester 334
to
337
Chester, Robert,
Esq
his Seat
197
Chesterfield-wall p. 353
Chetwynd,
Lord
351
Chetwynd, Walter,
Esq
ibid.
Chichley, Henry,
Archbishop of
Canterbury 214, 218, 219,
Chiltern 188
Chilton 204
Chippenham 47
Chipping-Norton 239, 267,
Chipping-S
dbury 252
Chisbury 54
Chiswicke 161
Chu
Parish
268
Churn,
River
241, 247, 249
Cirencester 247
to
249
Cissa,
the Viceroy
54, 247
Clarke,
Dr.
George,
his Benefactions to
All-Souls College 214, 215, 221.
Abstract of his Will
225
to
227
Clarks,
their Seat
184
Clebury 298
Cliefden 69
Clothing
Trade
38
to
40
Clun,
River
298
Cobham,
Bishop of
Winchester 228
Codicote
Parish
185
Codrington,
Col.
Christopher,
his Library and Statue
p. 214, 215
Coinage
Towns
4
Colbrond,
the Giant
358
Colbrook 162
Colebrook 83
Colerain,
Earl of, his Seat
155
Coleshill 356
Colne,
River
165, 241, 244
Colney 180
Colston,
Mr.
Edward,
his Charities
275, 276
Columb,
River
17
Columb-Davids
ibid.
St.
Columbs 3
Columbstock 17
Columbton
ibid.
Colwal 307
Combemerton 14
Congleton 340
Coningsby,
Earl of
304, 308
Conway 329
Conway,
Lord
296
Cooke,
Sir
Thomas,
endows
Worcester
College
221
Copse-castle 53
Corinium 247
Cornbury-house 241
Cornu Ammonis,
a neglected one
362
Corve,
River
300
Corvesdale
ibid.
Cossington 368
Cotswold 240, 241
Cotton,
Sir
Francis,
where born
48
Coventry 356
to
358
Cowper,
Earl, his Seat
184
Cranme,
Archbishop, where martyr'd
p. 229
Craven,
Earl of, seeks to marry the Queen of
Bohemia 60
Credon-hill 304
Creeklade 244, 249
Crew, George,
Esq
and Mrs.
228
Crew,
Lord, Bishop of
Durham 213, 229
Cromwell, Oliver,
his Benefaction to the
Bodleian
Library
228
Cromwell, Richard,
his Retirement
201
Crook,
Lord Chief Justice
204
Cropredry
Bridge, Action there
206
Cross-hill 367
Culling,
Mrs.
Elizabeth,
her Tomb
184
Cunetia 50
Cuthred,
King, beats
Ethelbald 242
D
Danby,
Earl of
44
Daneweed,
Tradition concerning it
362
St.
Daniel,
first Bishop of
Bangor 328
Danish
King, the Skin of of one
191
Danesey,
Col.
304
Dantsey
Manor and Barony
44
to
47
Daventry 361, 362
St
David,
his Monument
320
St.
Davids 319, 320
Dean
Forest
p. 281
Deddington 207
Dee,
River
311, 324, 332, 335, 336, 337
Delamere,
Lord, his Seat
338
Denbeigh 329
Denbeigh,
Earl of, his Cross
370
Denbeighshire
described
329, 330
Deptford 85, 88
Devizes 37, 48
Devonshire
described
8
Devorguilla,
Wife to
John Baliol 209
Diamonds, Cornish 5
Diffrin-Doe,
River
307, 309
Digby,
his Benefaction to the
Bodleian
Library
228
Dinder-hill 304
Ditchley-house 241
St.
Dobricius 315
Dodo,
the
Saxon 351
Don,
River
283
Donnington-castle 58, 60
Dorchester 204
Dove,
River
302
Dovebridge 361
Drayton 348
Droitwych 295
Druids,
a Temple of theirs
51
Dudley 351
Dudley
and
Ward,
Lord, his Seat ibid.
Du
smore
Heath
361
Du
wallo Malmusius 250
Duppa,
Dr.
Bryan 217
Du
er, Albert,
the Painter
245
Durhams p. 164
Durobrivae 168
Dursley 279
Dymokes,
Champions of
England 356
Dynmaur 306
E
Eadulph,
Archbishop
353
Ealing 162
East-Barnet 163
Eaton,
Mrs. her Legacy
221
Eaton,
Dr.
Birom
ibid.
Eccleshall 349
Echo,
a remarkable one
232
Edelfleda,
a
Saxon
Lady
376
Edgar,
King
31, 337
Edgehill 206, 289
Edgworth 157, 162
Edmonton 155
Edmund,
Proprietor of
Edmund-hall 223
Edmund Ironsides,
his Duel with
Canute 283
Edol,
Earl of
Gloucester,
His Valour
282
Edward the Confessor 207
Edward I. 80, 172, 201, 205, 210, 278, 279, 288, 325, 329, 335, 341, 367
Edward II.
Founder of
Oriel
College
211.
Grants
St. Mary-hall
to it
223.
Murdered
280.
His Shrine
282.
First
English
Prince of
Wales 325
Edward III.
improves
Windsor 73
to
75.
His Apartments
76.
Institutes the
Order of the
Garter p. 78, 292.
Where baptized
80.
Favours
Buntingford 193.
Inlarges the Revenue of
Oriel
College
211.
And a Benefactor to
Queens
ibid.
Edward IV.
transfers several Manors from
Eton
to
Windsor 71.
Where buried
82
Edward VI.
his Residence
182.
Grants a Licence to turn
Durham
College, in
Oxford,
into
Trinity
College
218
Egbert,
King, overthrows the
Danes
and
Britons 5
Eglesfield, Robert,
Founder of
Queen's College
in
Oxford 211
Elbridge, John,
Esq
his Legacy
276
Eleanor,
Queen, several Crosses built in Honour of her
201, 205, 363, 367
Elizabeth,
Queen, her peculiar Aversion and Fancy
75.
Her Invention to avoid the Wind
76.
Her Free-school
164.
Her Residence
182.
Styled Foundress of
Jesus
College in
Oxford 219.
Completes
Wadham
College
220.
Builds a Free-school at
Shrewsbury 345
Elsmere 342
Elston 377
Elstre 165
Emma,
Queen, passes the Fire
Ordeal p. 243
Enfield 155, 156, 162
Erdborough 368
Ermine-street 192
Essex,
Earl of, his Seat
165.
His Monument
360
Ethelbald,
King
242
Ethelbert,
King, murder'd
175, 305.
His Spring
306
Ethelred,
King
231
Ethelwolf,
King
67
Etocetum 353
Eton 70
to
73
Evesham 288
Eustace,
Earl of
Bologne 192
Ex,
River
14, 19
Exmore
ibid.
F
Fairfax,
General, defeats
Goring 25
Fairford 244
to
247
St.
Faith
's Well
187
Farmer,
the Honourable Mrs.
245
Farringdon 61, 62
Fell,
Dr.
John,
Bishop of
Oxford 217, 295
Fell,
Dr.
Samuel 217
Findon 369
Fire,
livid, a dangerous Phaenomenon
324, 325
Fitzharding,
Lord
27
Fitzstephen, Robert,
Conqueror of
Ireland 321
Flamstead
Parish
179
Flat-Holmes,
Isle
22
Fleming, Richard,
Bishop of
Lincoln p. 213
Flint 331
Flint-castle
ibid.
Flodden-field
Fight
59
Foley,
Lord
290, 296, 377
Fosse
Road
27, 241, 362, 369
Four
Shire Stones
240
Fox, Richard,
Bishop of
Winchester 216
Foxcoate 365
Frampton 280
Francis,
Bishop of
Ely 191
Frederick,
Prince of
Wales,
Inscription to his Honour
258.
His Present to the Corporation of
Bath 260.
His and the Princess's Benefactions to the Hospital there
263
Freind,
Dr.
171
Frier Bacon
's Study
229
Frodesham 338
Frome-Sellwood 37, 43
Froxfield 54
to
57
Fuller, Elizabeth,
her Freeschool
165
G
Gadesden 172
Gadesden, John de
ibid.
Gadesden-Little 171
Gainsborough,
Earl of
285
Gardiner
Family
198
Garter,
List of the first Knights
79.
Foreign Princes invested with it
81
Gavenny,
River
311
Geddington p. 367
George I. 290
George II.
ibid.
George,
Prince of
Denmark 160
Gilbert,
Earl of
Gloucester 287
Glamorganshire
described
312, 316
Glastenbury 27
to
32
Glendower,
Prince of
Wales 314
Gloucester 281
to
284
Gloucester, Robert,
Earl of
62
Glyder 326
Gobions 184
Godiva,
Lady, her Story
356
Godolphin,
Dr. his Statue
70
Godstow
Nunnery
230
Golden Vale 302, 309
Gore,
Sir
William,
and his Lady's Monument
171
Gore, William,
Esq
his Seat ibid.
Gorhambury 178
St.
Goven
's Head
319
Gowre 317
Granville,
Sir
Bevil 267
Grasiers,
the richest
373
Great Banington 251, 252
Great Barkhamsted 168
to
170
Great Bedwin 53
Great Malvern 287
Great Marlow 67, 68
Great Wenlock 298, 347
The
Green 49
Gregory,
Sir
William 55
Greville, Doddington,
Esq
214
Grey Weathers,
what
p. 49, 50
Greys,
Lords
363
Grimston,
Lord
148
Grindall,
Archbishop
211
Grismund
's Mount
248
Grooby 372
Guildsborough 365
Guy,
Earl of
Warwick 358.
His Statue
360.
His Cave
361
Guy,
Mr. his Charity
355
Guy-cliff 360
H
Hacket,
Bishop
355
Hackney 154, 155
Hadham Parva 196
Hadsley
Family
198
Hadstock 191
Hale, Richard,
Esq
his Grammar-school at
Hertford 183
Hales, John,
Esq
his Freeschool at
Coventry 357
Halifax,
Earl of, his Seat
161
Hallaton 377
Hamersmith 161, 162
Hampden
Family
204
Hampton-court 308
Hamstead 155, 156, 157
Harborough 369
Harelane-field 199
Harleigh-castle 324, 327
Harley,
Sir
Edward 302
Harri
on,
Governor, his Seat
183
Harrow 202
Hartford, Elias,
Owner of
Hart-hall p. 222
Hartland 9
Hastings,
Lord, executed
47, 57
Hatfield 182
Hatfield-house
ibid.
Hatfield, Thomas,
Bishop of
Durham 218
Hathorp-house 241
Haverford 319
Havisdike 53
Heane
founds an Abbey
63
Heightsbury 48
Hengeston-hill 5
Hengist,
a
Cornish
General ibid.
Hengist,
the
Saxon,
put to Death
283
Henley
upon
Thames 63, 64, 65
Henry I.
where educated
63.
Where buried
66, 282.
Rebuilds
Woodstock 231.
Incloses the Park there
232.
Settles the
Flemings
in
Pembrokeshire 319
Henry II.
searches for King
Arthur
's Tomb
28.
His Court at
Barkhamstead 169.
Adorns
Woodstock 231.
Grants
Burford
a Charter
242.
Grants
Robert Fitzharding Berkley-castle 280
Henry III.
his Palace at
Kings-Langley 167.
Causes a Fortification to be demolished
192.
Fortifies
Montgomery 323
Henry IV.
builds
Hampton-court
in
Herefordshire p. 308.
Defeats
Hotspur 344
Henry V.
where born
310.
Henry VI.
his noble Foundation
70
Henry VII.
where he landed
319
Henry VIII.
his Nuptials with Lady
Jane Seymour 53.
With
Anna Bolen 178.
His Statue
ibid.
Puts Sir
Thomas More
to Death
184.
Residence of his Children
197.
Names
Christ-church
in
Oxford 216, 217.
His conscientious Divorce
292.
Establishes the Court of the
Marches
at
Ludlow 301.
Makes
Chester
a Bishop's See
337
H
rbert,
Lord, of
Cherbury 297
Hercules
's Promontory
9
Hereford 303
to
307
Hereford,
Marquis of
52
Herefordshire
described
302, 303
Herman-street 188, 189
Hertford 183
Hertford,
Lord, his Seat
50
Hertfordshire
described
162, 163
Hertingfordbury 184
Hexton 186
Heylin,
Dr.
242
High-cross 361, 369
Highgate 155
Highlake 335
Highways,
antient ones
p. 361, 362
High-Wickham 67, 68
Hindon 48
Hinkley 371
Hitchin 186
Hobart,
Sir
John 195
Hobbes,
Mr.
44
Hobbes,
the Family
68, 69
Hock-Crib 280
Hoddesden 200
Holland-house 161
Holmeby-house 364
Holy-bones 376
Holyhead 326
Holywell 330, 331
Holy
Wells
288
Honesdon 196, 197
Hooper,
Bishop, martyr'd
284
Hopton,
Lord, disbands his Army
5.
Defeats the Parliament Forces, and takes General
Chudleigh
Prisoner
6
Horses,
the largest
373
Hoskins,
Sir
John 304
Hubba,
King, slain
13
Hubbestow 14
Hudson,
Dr.
John,
Principal of
St. Mary
Hall
223
Humber,
River
23
Humphrey,
Duke of
Gloucester,
his Monument and Inscription
176, 177.
Founder of the Divinity-schools in
Oxford 228
Hungerford
Family
47, 57
Hurlers,
Stones so called
6, 7
Hurling
Match
7, 8
I
Jack
of
Newbury p. 59
James I.
converts Mr.
Salkeld 18.
His Residence
155.
His Childrens Nursery
169.
Exchanges
Hatfield
Manor
182, 201.
Promotes the
N
w River
Project
199
Icleford 188
Idlestrey 165
Jefferies,
Judge, his Cruelty
268
Jekyll,
the late Sir
Joseph,
his Seat
183
Jennings
Family
182
Jeoffry
of
Monmouth 310
Ikenild-street 289
Ilfordcomb 12, 13
Ilfordcomb
Harbour
13
Ilminster 18
Ina,
King, his Palace
26.
Builds
Glastenbury
Church
29
Incent,
Dean of
St. Paul
's
170
Ine,
the Brook
303
Ingestre 351, 352
Inglefield 67
John,
King, surrenders
Barkhamsted-castle 169.
Demolishes and restores
Bishop-Storford 194.
His Palace
206.
His Tomb
292
John,
King of
France,
where imprisoned
26
Johnson,
Secretary, his Seat
161
Johnson,
Sir
Henry 69
Joseph
of
Arimathea,
Tradition concerning him
28
Irish,
general Alarm concerning them
p. 66, 67
Isabel,
Duchess of
York 167
Isca,
River
14
Isis,
River
163, 204, 230, 241
Islington 86
Islip 61, 207
Ivel,
River
26
Ivelchester
ibid.
St.
Ives 1, 2
St.
Ives
Bay
1
Ivingo 204
K
Kader-Idricks 324
Kemish,
Rectory of
55
Kenchester 303
Kendale
Wood
165
Kennet,
River
50, 51, 58, 60, 64
Kennith castle 146
Kenrick,
Mr. his Will
59, 65
Kensington 159, 160
Keynton 206
Kidderminster 295
Kily-Maen Llwyd 318
King-Road 277
Kingsbury 180
Kingsdown 267
Kings-Langley 167
Knutsford 340
Kyneton 27, 302
Kynfig-castle 317
Kyrton-Beacon 313
L
La Guerre,
the Painter
232
Lambourn 60
Lambourn,
River
60, 61
Lancaster, Henry,
Duke and Earl of
p. 375, 376
Lancaster,
Dr.
William 211
Landaff 315, 316
Lands,
Method of improving them
42, 43
Landsdown,
Lord
267
Landsdown-hill 263, 267
Langley, Edmund de,
Duke of
York 167
Langleybury 166
Langport 25
Lanhidrock 2
Lar,
a Brass one, found
378
Lassington 251, 284
Laud,
Archbishop
65, 228
Lavington 48
Launceston 4, 5, 6
Lea,
River
163
Lech,
River
241, 242, 244
Lechlade 241, 249
Lee,
River
182, 198, 200
Leeds,
Duke of
171, 172, 183
Legers-Ashby 361
Leicester 372, 373, 375, 376
Leicestershire
described
373, 374
Leigh,
Reverend Mr.
Thomas 196
Lemingt
n 240
Le Notre 166, 366
Lenthal,
the Speaker
242
Leominster 301, 302
Leucomagus 53
Leveson,
Sir
Richard 350
Lewellin,
Prince of
Wales,
his generous Compliment to
Edward I. 278, 279.
His Statue
343
Lheweni,
River
p. 313
Lidbury 307
Liliho 187
Litchfield 352, 353
to
355
Litchfield,
Abbot
288
Little Malvern 287
Loddon,
River
68
Loman,
River
14
LONDON 84
to
153.
Measurement of it
87
to
93,
Number of Inhabitants
93, 94.
Government
94. 95.
Considered more particularly in Sixteen Articles:
I.
A brief Account of what the City was before the Fire, and how improved when rebuilt, and within a few Years after it
96
to
98
II.
Of the prodigious Increase of Buildings within our own Memory, down to the Year
1740. 99
to
102
III.
Of the Publick Offices, and City Corporations
102
to
106
IV.
Of the Mansion-house, and other most noted Edifices, Squares and Publick Structures, in and about
London 106
to
112
V.
Of the principal Hospitals, and other charitable Institutions in and about the City of
London 113
to
119
VI.
Of the Churches of
London, Westminster,
and
Southwark p. 119
to
128
VII.
Of
St. James
's Palace, the Parliament-house,
Westminster-hall,
&c.
129
to
131
VIII.
Of the Statues, and other publick Ornaments in and about the Cities of
London
and
Westminster 131
to
135
IX.
Of the Gates of
London
and
Westminster 135
to
137
X.
Of the publick and private Prisons
137, 138
XI.
Of the Markets of
London 138
to
143
XII.
Of the publick Schools and Libraries
143
to
145
XIII.
Of the Shipping in the
Thames,
and the Trade carried on by means of that noble River
145
to
147
XIV.
Of the Manner by which the City is supplied with Water
147
to
150
XV.
Of the Christenings and Burials in
London,
&c. Of the Importance of the City of
London
to the whole Kingdom. Of its comparative Proportion to the publick Expence of the Kingdom, and the disproportionate Number of Members it returns
150
to
152
XVI.
The Benefit to the Publick of a good Understanding between the Court and City
152, 153
Long-leat p. 27
Lovelace,
Lord
69
Loventium 314
Loughborough 377
Lovibond, Nicolas,
Vicar of
Wadbridge,
builds a Bridge there
3
Louis XIV.
his Marble Busto
233
Lower-way 23
Ludlow 298, 299
to
301
Ludlow-castle 298, 299
Lug,
River
277, 301, 305, 310
Lumley,
General, his Monument
197
Lundy,
Island
17
Lupus, Hugh,
Earl of
Chester 336, 337, 352
Lutterworth 369
Lyteford 27
M
Macclesfield 340
Madern-hills 2
Maidenhead 69
Maimar 207
Maitland,
Mr. his History of
London 84
Make-king,
Earl of
Warwick 164, 206
Malmsbury 43, 44
Malpas 334
Malvern-hills 287
Mansel,
Lord
317
Mansel,
Sir
Edward
ibid.
Maphesden, Edward,
Monument over his Seven Children
195
Marden p. 305
Mare,
ridiculous Burying of one
199
Margan Mynydd,
delusory Prophecy concerning a Monument near it
317
Margaret,
Queen, overcomes the
Yorkists 175
Margaret,
Mother of
Henry VII. 12
Market-cell 173
Marlborough 50
Marlborough,
Duchess of, her Seat
180.
Her Character of Queen
Anne 180, 181.
Purchases
Holmeby-house 364
Marlborough,
Duke of, his Palace, Obelisk, and elegant Inscription
232
to
239
Marmyons,
Champions of
England 356
Marsbury-Field 268
Marsh,
Dr.
Narcissus,
Archbishop of
Armagh 210
Marshfield 252
Mary,
Queen of
Scots,
her Needle-work
77
Mary II.
designs the Gardens at
Kensington 159
Mary Magdalen,
her Image
6
St.
Mary de Pree
's Abbey
376
Maud,
Empress, Inscription on her Monument
66.
Takes King
Stephen
Prisoner
268
Maudlin
Meadow
250
Maurice,
Prince, routs Sir
William Waller 51
Mawcop 340
Meautys,
Sir
Thomas p. 179
Melton-Mowbray 377
Mendip-hills 23, 33, 34, 35
Menen
Firth
325, 328
Merchants
of
London
and
Bristol
compared
269, 270
Mere 48
Merionethshire
described
323
Merlin,
where born
318
Mersey,
River
10, 335
St.
Michael
's
St.
Michael
's Church upon the
Torr 27, 28
Middlesex
described
162
Middleton,
Sir
Hugh 199
Middlewick 339
Milbourn 26
Mile-end 86
Milford-haven 318, 319
Minching Hampton 249, 250
Minehead 20
Modishole 3
Moncke,
Duke of
Albemarle 201
Monmouth 309, 310
Monmouth,
Duke of, his Rebellion
19.
Defeated
34.
His House
167.
His Advantage over
James II. 268
Monmouthshire
described
311, 312, 313
Monson,
Lord
200
Montagu,
Duke of, his Seat
366, 367
Montfort, Simon,
defeated
288
Montgomery 323
Montgomery, Roger de 298
Montgomeryshire
described
322, 323
Montsorrel p. 377
Monuchdenny-hill 315
Moore-Park 166, 167
Mordaunt,
Lieutenant-General
Lewis 47
Mordred,
King
Arthur
's Nephew
4
More,
Sir
Thomas 184
Moreton,
Earl of
Cornwall 168
Moretonhenmarsh 240
Morland,
Sir
Samuel 75
Mowywynda 324
Muniborough-hill 172
Munnow,
River
309, 310
N
Namptwich 341
Naseby 364, 365
Neath 316
Neson 335
Netlebed 63
Nevern,
River
321
Nevil,
Earl of
Salisbury,
his Victory
348
New
River
199, 200, 201
Newark 375, 378, 379
Newbury 58
to
60
Newcastle under Line 349, 350
Newington 155
Newington-butts 86
Newport 5, 321, 348
Newport-pagnell 205
Newton,
Dr.
Richard,
Principal of
Hertford
College
221
Newton,
Sir
Michael 308
Norfolk, Howard,
Duke of
47
Northampton 363, 364
North-Cadbury p. 26
Northleche 242
North-Mymms 183
Northwich 339
Norton 382
Novum opus,
what
375
Nun-Eaton 371
Nyne,
River
363
O
Oak,
Royal, the Inscription on it
346, 347
Och,
River
61
Offa,
King, murders
Ethelbert,
and is absolved
175, 305.
Inscription under his Picture
176.
Founds an Abbey
286.
Makes
Litchfield
an Archbishoprick
353.
Causes
1000
Persons to be made Christians
354
Offa
's Dyke
310, 311
Okehampton 12
Old Stretford 362
Oldham, Hugh,
Bishop of
Exeter 216
Oldworth,
Mr. preserves the Glass of
Fairford
Church
245
Onslow, Arthur,
Esq
212
Orange,
Prince of, Inscription in Memory of his Cure
259
Oseny
Abbey
229
Oswald,
Bishop
292
St.
Oswald
's Hospital
295
Oswestry 342
Oswy,
King of
Northumberland 354
Oulney 205
Ouse,
River
p. 23, 205, 206
Owen Tudor
's Monument
320
Oxford 207
to
231
Oxford,
Earl of
191, 302
P
Padstow 3
Parliamentum Diabolicum 357
Parliamentum Indoctorum 357
Parr,
River
25
Parrat,
River
22
St.
Patrick
removes a Hill
304
Paynswick 249, 290
Peacock-Coals,
what
350
Pebbles,
their Use
21
Pelagius,
the Arch-heretick
332
Pembridge 302
Pembroke 319
Pembroke,
Earl of
228
Pembrokeshire
describ'd
318, 319
Pendril
Family
346, 347
Penkrige 348
Penley-lodge 172
Penmaen-maur 329
Penn,
Sir
William 273
Pennocrucium 349
Pennywel 165
Penton,
Mr.
Stephen,
Principal of
Edmund-hall 223
Penvail 313
Peris,
the Priest, his Picture and Inscription
53
Perrywood 291
Pershore 287, 288
Peterborough,
late Earl of, how cheated by his Tenants at
Dantsey p. 45, 46.
His Seat
161
St.
Peter
's Hospital
276
Petre,
Sir
William 220
Petrifying
Spring
250.
Accounted for
251
Philippa,
Queen
211
Philips-Norton 43
Philpot,
Mr. finds some Antiquities
165
Pictures,
profane ones of the Deity in
Barkway
Church
191, 192
Pill-Road 277
Pirton
Church
187
Pishobury
Manor-house
198
Plot,
Dr.
350
Plummer, William,
Esq
his Seat
199
Plymouth Sound 8
Plynlymon-hill 322
Polehampton,
Captain, his Gift at
St. Albans 178
Polesworth 372
Polydore Virgil 78
Pomfret,
Earl of, his Seat
365
Pope,
Sir
Thomas 218
Popham,
Lord Chief Justice
18
Popish
and Protestant Times compared
230, 231
Porlock 14, 20
Portland,
Earl and Duke of
201
Portman, Henry,
Esq
214
Pot-walloners,
what
19
Powell,
Judge, his Opinion concerning Witches
185
Presteigne p. 314
Price, Hugh,
Founder of
Jesus
College
219
Price,
Sir
Carbery,
his Lead Mines at
Cardigan 321
Prideaux-house 3
Prophecy,
a punning one
31
Puckeridge 191, 194
Puff-stone 251
Q
Quantock 22
Quern 248
R
Radcliffe,
Dr.
209.
Abstract of his Will
224, 225
Radnor 314
Radnor,
Earl of
2
Radnorshire
described
314
Ranelagh,
Earl of, his House
160
Raranvaur 324
Ratae Coritanorum 376
Ravensborough-castle 186, 187
Ravenscroft, James,
Esq
his
Alms-house 164
Rawdikes 377
Raymond,
Lord
166
Reading 64
to
67
Red-horse,
Vale of
289
Reeves,
Lord Chief Justice
70, 72, 73
Ree,
River
249
Remigius 204
Rhee,
River
189, 190
Rhoodee 335, 336
Rib,
the Stream
198
Ribsford p. 297
Rich,
Sir
Thomas,
his Hospital
284
Richard I.
where born
230.
Sends Sheep into
Spain 240
Richard III. 372.
Where buried
376
Richard,
Bishop of
Durham 227, 228
Richmond,
Earl of, his Monument
320
Rickmersworth 165, 166, 167
Rickning Way 283
Ridley,
Bishop, where martyred
229
Rivers,
Earl of
339
Robert,
Son of the
Conqueror,
his Tomb
282
Robin Hood
's Hill
283
Roch,
Parish
297
Rock-Savage 339
Roe,
Sir
Thomas,
his Collection of Coins
228
Roger,
Bishop of
Salisbury 48
Roisia,
her Religious House
191
Roman
Antiquities
189
Roman
Camps
62, 187, 368
Roman
Coin
204
Roman
Highways
361, 362
Roper
Family
169
Rosamond,
Concubine to
Henry II. 230, 231
Ross 309
Rotherham, Thomas de,
Archbishop of
York 213
Rotherhith 85, 86
Roundway
Down
51
Rowldrich
Stones
p. 239
Royston 190, 191, 198
Rubens,
the Painter
232
Rugby 361, 369
Rugely 352
Ruleigh
Abbey
230
Rumball
executed
196
Runway 48
Rutland,
Dukes of
378
Rydall,
River
322
Rye
Manor
196
Rye-house
Plot ibid.
S
Salisbury,
Countess of, her Garter
78.
Her Tomb
292
Salisbury,
Earl of, his Seat
182
Salisbury Plain 42
Salkeld,
the Royal Convert
18
Salt upon Salt,
what
10
Salwarp,
River
295
Sambroke,
Sir
Jeremy 184
Sanbach 340
Sandys, Samuel,
Esq
294
Sarney 244
Savage
Family
338, 339, 340
Savernack
Forest
51, 52
Saunders
Family, Inscription on the Monument of one of them
173, 174
Saundridge 182
Sawbridgeworth 197
Sebright,
Sir
Thomas Saunders,
his Seat
173
Sedgmore 34
Selden,
Mr.
228
Selwood
Forest
43, 48
Senvy-gate p. 370
Severn,
River
23, 250, 266, 277, 278, 280, 281, 287, 290, 296, 310, 315, 322, 323, 343
Seymour,
Sir
John 53, 54
Shakespeare,
his Tomb
288, 289
Sheep,
the best
373, 374
Sheldon,
Archbishop
227
Sherard,
Dr.
219
Shipley-hill 368
Shipton 206
Shipton-Mallet 43
Shore, Jane,
solicits in favour of
Eton
College
71
Shrews,
a Method of Taming them
350
Shrewsbury 343
to
345
Shrewsbury,
Earl of, his Seat
161
Siffivernes 185, 186
Silures 302
Skirridan 313
Sloane,
Sir
Hans,
his Statue
160
Slough 70
Smyth, William,
Bishop of
Lincoln 216
Snowden-hill 325
Sour,
River
373, 374
Somers,
Lord, his modest Interrment
183
Somerset,
Duchess Dowager of, her Alms-house at
Froxfield 55
to
57
Somersetshire
described
18, 23
to
25, 35, 36
Somerton 26
Somerville, Philip 209
Sopwell
Nunnery
178
South,
Dr.
p. 207
South Petherton 26
Sow,
River
349
Spencer,
the Poet
363
Spencer, John,
Esq
his Seat
366
Spine 59, 60
Spinham-lands 59
Stafford 348, 349
Stafford, Edmund,
Bishop of
Exeter 210
Stamford,
Earl of
372
Stamford,
a
London
Merchant, builds a Bridge at
Barnstable 11, 12
Standon 194
Stanes 162
Stanley 280
Stansted-Abbots
Parish
196
Stapledon, Walter,
Bishop of
Exeter 210, 222
Starbury
Mount
248
Steep-Holmes,
Isle
22
Stephen,
King
268
Stevenage 184, 185
Stiles,
Mr.
166, 167
Stockport 340
Stone 349
Stones,
curious ones
21, 22.
Monumental
326, 327
Stony-Stratford 205
Stort,
River
195, 196, 197, 198
Stour,
River
295, 377
Stourbridge 295, 296
Stow-house 6
Stow
on the
Would 241, 242
Strafford,
Earl of, his Seat
161
Stratford
upon
Avon 288, 289
Stratton p. 6
Strongbow,
Conqueror of
Ireland 282
Stroud 249, 290
Stroud,
River
249, 251, 289, 290, 297
Stukeley 363
Suellaniacis 165
Suffolk,
Duke of
80
Sunderland,
Earl of
366
Sutton 27
Sutton-Colefield 356
Sutton-court 161
Sutton-walls 305
Swanzy 316, 317
Swinford 295
Swyliate,
River
287
Sylvester,
the Poet
61
T
Taaffe,
River
315
Talbot,
Earl of
Shrewsbury;
his Monument
341, 342
Tamar,
River
8
Tame 204
Tame, John,
Esq
builds
Fairford
Church
245, 247
Tame
River
355
Tamworth
ibid.
Tanner,
Dr. Bishop of
St. Asaph 2
8
Tavistock 12
Taunton 18, 19, 22
Taunton-dean 18
Tavy,
River
12
Taw,
River
9, 10, 11, 13, 14
Teme,
River
296, 300
Temple-Mills 68
Tenbigh 319
Tenbury p. 296
Tenure,
one demonstrative of the Moderation of our antient Kings
203
Terrible-castle 5
Tesdale, Thomas,
Esq
Founder of
Pembroke
College in
Oxford 220
Tetbury 250
Tewksbury 286, 287
Thame,
River
204
THAMES 64, 65, 67, 68, 69, 70, 77, 163, 165, 204
Thatcham 60, 64
Theal 64, 67
Theobalds 155, 200, 201
Therfield 191
Thornbury 279
Thornhill,
Sir
James 214, 232
Tickenhall 297, 298
Tidmerton
Parish
240
Titian 232
Tiverton,
and its famous School
14
to
17
Tone,
River
18, 22
Topham, Richard,
Esq
Keeper of the Records in the
Tower 70
Torr,
the Hill
27, 30, 31
Torrington 12
Tottenham 52, 155
Totteridge 163, 164
Towcester 362, 365
Towridge,
River
9, 10, 11, 14
Towy,
River
317
Trefusis-house 2
Trent,
River
23, 349, 352, 353, 374, 377, 379
Trevena p. 4
Trillecks,
Brethren, Bishops
223
Tring 170, 171
Tripontium 361
Trothy,
River
309, 310
Troy-house 310
Trubridge 36, 38, 47
Tumberlow 313
Turner,
Dr.
Thomas,
President of
Corpus Christi
College in
Oxford 216
Tutbury 352
Twickenham 161
Twye,
River
316
Twyford 67
Twyfordton 268
Tyvy,
River
321
V.
Vale
of
Aylesbury 203, 204
Vale-Royal 341
Vandyke,
the Painter
232, 360
Vaux,
Lord
207
Ubourn 204
Verlam,
River
180
Verulam 174, 178
Ufcolumb 17
St.
Vincent
's Rock and Well
271, 272
Mr.
Vipand
's Long-room, and Assembly-room
156, 157
Upper-way 23
Upton 287
Urban,
Bishop
316
Uriconium 343
Usk,
River
311, 313
Uxbri
ge 162
Uxbridge,
Earl of
p. 352
W
Wadbridge 3
Waddington,
Bishop of
Chichester 70
Wade,
General
259, 260
Wadham, Nicolas
and
Dorothy 18, 220
Wake,
Archbishop
218
Walcot 267
Wales
describ'd
312
to
333
Walkern 185
Walking-stick,
the Tree so called
184
Waller, Edmund 202
Wallingford 63
Walnut-tree,
a prodigious one
185, 186
Walpole,
Sir
Robert,
now Earl of
Orford,
his House
160
Walsal 350
Walter
of
Merton,
Bishop of
Rochester 210
Waltham-cross 201
Waltham
on the
Would 377
Wansdyke 54
Wantage 61
Ward,
Bishop of
Salisbury 193
Ware 198, 199
Warminster 47
Warmlington 206
Warner, John,
Bishop of
Rochester 209
Warwick 358
to
360
Warwick
Earls of, their Monuments
359
Watchet 20, 21, 251
Watford p. 165
Watlington 63
Watling-street 345, 361, 371
Watson,
Dr.
Thomas,
Bp. of
St. David
's
320
Weaver,
River
335, 338, 340
Weddings,
Provision for those of poor People
191, 194
Weedon 362
Welland,
River
375
Wellingborough 368, 369
Wellington 17, 18, 348
Wells 33
Welsh
Gentlemen, their Character
333
Welsh-Pool 323
Wem 342
Wendover 203
Wendy,
Sir
Thomas 210
Wenman, Jane,
the supposed Witch
185
Weobly 302
St.
Werburgh 362
Wergins,
the Stones, removed
306, 307
Westbury 47
Whaddon-hall 363
Wharton,
Duke of, his Seats
204
Whetham,
General, his House
161
Whitchurch 341, 342
White,
Sir
Thomas 166, 218, 220
White-friers
Palace
230
White-horse-hill 60, 62
White-horse-vale 61, 62
Whiteshole-hill 48
White-thorn,
the supposed miraculous Blowing of one
p. 28
Whiting,
Abbot, his fatal Bravery
30, 31
Whitley-court 290
Wickham 203
Wickliff, John 369
Wickwar 252
Wightred,
King
168
Wigmore 302
Wigston,
Sir
William,
his Hospital
376
Wilbury-hill 188
William I.
improves
Windsor 73, 80.
His Interview with the
English
Nobility
170.
Gives
Bishop-Stortford
to the Bp. of
London 194.
Gives
Gloucester
City and Castle to
Robert Fitz-Hammon 283
William III.
his Equestrian Picture
77.
Purchases
Kensington
Palace
159.
Dies there
160.
His Statue
270
William
of
Durham 209
William
of
Malmsbury 44
William
of
Wickham,
his artful Vanity
74.
Founds
New
College
212
William Patten,
alias
Wainfleet,
Bishop of
Winchester 215, 223
Williams,
Archbishop
213
Williamson,
Sir
Joseph 211
Willis,
Dr.
53.
His Picture,
&c. 363
Willoughby
Brook
p. 367.
And Town
368
Wilmington,
Earl of, his Seat
161
Wilmot,
Lord
51
Wilts
described
38
to
43
Wimple 191
Wincaunton 27, 43
Winchcomb 286
Winchelsea,
Lord
27, 49, 267
Winchenden 204
Windrush,
River
243
Windsor 73
to
83
St.
Winifrid,
her Story
330
Winslow 205
Witney 243
Woden,
the
Saxon
Idol
54
Wokey-hole 34
Wolf-hall 53
Wolfhere,
King
362
Wolsey,
Cardinal, Abbot of
St. Albans 175.
Founds
Christ-church
in
Oxford 216.
His Body where found
376
Wolston,
Bishop
292
Wolverhampton 350
Wood,
Family, Warning preceding their Deaths
244
Woodstock 231, 239
Woolhampton 64
Worcester 290
to
294
Wotton 184, 279
Wreck,
River
368, 377
Wreken-hill 347
Wren,
Sir
Christopher 160, 227
Wrestling,
the
Cornishmen
eminent for that Exercise
p. 8
Wrexham 331, 332
Wrey,
Sir
Bourchier 13
Wrightwicke, Richard,
B.D. Founder of
Pembroke
College in
Oxford 220
Wroxeter 347
Wye,
River
p. 269, 277, 278, 303, 304, 307, 309, 310, 313, 314, 322
Wylde,
Mr. his Seat
291
Y
Ystwith,
River
322
BOOKS printed for
S. BIRT,
at the
Bible
and
Ball
in
Ave-Maria-lane.
1. A New Voyage to
Italy,
with curious Observations on several other Countries; as
Germany, Switzerland, Savoy, Geneva, Flanders,
and
Holland:
Together with useful Instructions for those who shall Travel thither. The fifth Edition, with large Additions throughout the Whole, and adorned with several new Figures. By Mr.
Misson.
In 4 Vols. 8
vo.
2. A New Set of Maps both of antient and present Geography; wherein not only the Latitude of Places is corrected according to the latest Observations, but also the most remarkable Differences of antient and modern Geography may quickly be discerned by a bare Inspection, on comparing of correspondent Maps; which seems the most natural and easy Method to lead young Students (for whose Use this Work is principally intended) unto a competent Knowlege of Geography.
3. Together with a Geographical Treatise particularly adapted to the Use and Design of these Maps. By
Edward Wells,
D. D. sometime Student of
Christ-church, Oxon,
and Rector of
Colesbatch
in
Leicestershire.
4. The Whole Comical Works of Mons.
Scarron,
in Two Volumes. Vol. I. containing his Comical Romance of a Company of Stage Players, in Three Parts complete. Vol. II. All his Novels and Histories, his Letters, Characters,
&c.
a great part of which never before in
English.
Translated by Mr.
Brown,
Mr.
Savage,
and others.
5. Poems on several Occasions, by
Stephen Duck,
8
vo.
and 12
mo.
With very great Additions.
6. Poems on several Occasions, by the late
Matthew Prior,
Esq
. The third and last Volume, adorned with Cuts. To which is added, The Life of Mr.
Prior,
by
Samuel Humphreys,
Esq
.
7. The Adventures of
Telemachus,
the Son of
Ulysses,
written by the Archbishop and Duke of
Cambray.
With the Adventures of
Aristonous,
by another Hand. The Whole translated into
English,
from the best
Paris
Edition, by Mr.
Ozell,
who has added, (never before
English'd
by any other) from the
Paris
Edition, many short, but curious Notes, Historical, Critical, Political, and Moral; and not a few Grammatical and Classical Annotations from the
Dutch, &c.
Also, to complete the Work, a Key to the Characters alluded to in this Poem,
viz. Lewis
XIV. and his Ministers, Generals, Mistresses,
&c.
Which Key was dedicated to the Prince of
Orange,
and justified by a Preface, (here likewise translated) against the Chevalier
Ramsey
's Assertion to the contrary. To the Whole is prefixed, a short Account of the Author's Life and Writings; and the Chevalier
Ramsey
's fine Discourse on
Epic Poetry
in general, and this of
Telemachus
in particular. Likewise the Genealogy of
Telemachus,
and an Ode by the Author, in
French
and
English.
In 2 Vols. With an
Index
to each Volume.
N.B.
The Errors charged on Mr.
Ozell,
by the Proprietors of the other Translation, have been corrected above these 20 Years.
8. A Treatise of the Sphere: Shewing how it is derived from that Theory, which justly asserts the Motion of the Earth; as also of the Projections of it, both Orthographical and Stereographical; demonstrating their Properties from fundamental Propositions, and shewing their Uses. With the Resolution of Astronomical and Chorological Problems; by the Reverend
John Witty,
M. A. and Chaplain to his Grace the Duke of
Devonshire.
The second Edition, revised and improved by
J. Hodgson,
F. R. S. and Master of the Royal Mathematical School.
9.
Romae Antiquae Notitia
; or, The Antiquities of
Rome,
in Two Parts. 1. A short History of the Rise, Progress, and Decay of the Commonwealth. 2. A Description of the City: An Account of the Religion, Civil Government, and Art of War; with the remarkable Customs and Ceremonies, publick and private; with Copper Cuts of the principal Buildings,
&c.
To which are prefixed, Two Essays, concerning
Roman
Learning and Education, by
Basil Kennet,
of
C. C. C.
Oxon.
10.
Archaeologia Graeca
; or, The Antiquities of
Greece.
By
John Potter,
D. D. Lord Archbishop of
Canterbury:
Containing;
First,
The Civil Government of
Greece. Secondly,
The Religion of
Greece. Thirdly,
The Military Affairs of the
Grecians. Fourthly,
Some of their Miscellany,
&c.
11. Geography Anatomiz'd; or, The Geographical Grammar. Being a short and exact Analysis of the whole Body of Modern Geography, after a new and curious Method; comprehending,
First,
A General View of the Terraqueous Globe; being a compendious System of the Fundamentals of Geography, digested into various Definitions, Problems, Theorems, and Paradoxes; with a Survey of the Earthly Ball, as it consists of Land and Water.
Secondly,
A Particular View of the Terraqueous Globe; being a clear and pleasant Prospect of all the remarkable Countries upon the Face of the whole Earth: Shewing their Situation, Extent, Division, Subdivision, Cities, Towns, Name, Air, Soil, Commodities, Rarities, Archbishopricks, Bishopricks, Universities, Manners, Languages, Governments, Armaments, Religions,
&c.
collected from the best Authors. The Seventeenth Edition, corrected and inlarged; and a new Set of Maps by Mr.
Senex.
By
Patrick Gordon,
M. A. F. R. S.
Price
5
s.
12.
Epictetus
's Morals, with
Simplicius
's Comment; made
English
from the
Greek
by
George Stanhope, D.
D. Dean of
Canterbury,
and Chaplain in Ordinary to his Majesty. With the Life of
Epictetus,
from Mons.
Boileau.
13. The New Years Gift complete. In Six Parts. Composed of Meditations and Prayers for every Day in the Week; with Devotions for Sacrament,
Lent,
and other Occasions.
N.B.
The first Part is sold single.
Price
6
d.
or 40
s. per
Hundred.
14.
Terence
's Comedies made
English
; with his Life, and some Remarks at the End, by Mr.
Laurence Eachard
and others. By Dr.
Eachard,
and Sir
Roger L'Estrange,
Kt.