JOURNAL OF THE RESOLUTION's VOYAGE, In 1772, 1773, 1774, and 1775. ON DISCOVERY TO THE SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE, BY WHICH The NON-EXISTENCE of an undiscovered CONTINENT, between the Equator and the 50th Degree of Southern Latitude, is demonstratively proved.
ALSO A JOURNAL OF THE ADVENTURE's VOYAGE, In the Years 1772, 1773, and 1774.
With an Account of the SEPARATION of the two SHIPS, and the most remarkable Incidents that befel each.
INTER
RSED WITH HISTORICAL and GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTIONS of the ISLANDS and COUNTRIES discovered in the Course of their respective VOYAGES.
ILLUSTRATED WITH A CHART, In which the TRACKS of both VESSELS are accurately laid down, And OTHER CUTS.
LONDON: Printed for F. NEWBERY, at the Corner of St. Paul's Church-Yard. 1775.
PREFACE.
FEW of the readers of the present voyages, it may be presumed, are wholly unacquainted with the discoveries immediately preceding it; discoveries, if we may credit the relater,
"far greater than those of all the navigators in the world collectively, from the expedition of Columbus, to the present time."
See Dr. Hawkesworth's dedication to the king.
Without questioning the truth of this intimation, which, no doubt, like other truths conveyed to the ear of majesty, is founded on the most authentic evidence, we may be permitted to remark, that great as these discoveries were, they still left room for a new expedition, in order to accomplish the GRAND DISCOVERY, with respect to which all former discoveries appear as a faint light, compared to the brightness of the clearest day.
Mr. Bankes, on being made acquainted with this unfavourable report made to his Majesty, ordered his stores to be brought on shore, as did Dr. Solander, Dr. Lind, Mr. Zoffani, and five draughtsmen that had been engaged by Mr. Bankes, for the purpose of delineating the curiosities of every kind that might be discovered in the course of the voyage; a voyage patronized by Parliament, as well as by Royal Bounty, the Commons having voted 4000 l. to Dr. Lind, for his assistance in it; and to make it still more memorable, medals were ordered to be struck for it in brass, and Mr. Bankes was at the expence of a few in gold and silver. Dr. Lind, from a point of delicacy, resigned his parliamentary appointment, to accompany his friend Mr. Bankes in a private expedition to the northern isles, with a view, as it should seem, to examine the analogy of nature in its productions in the opposite latitudes of the Southern and Northern Hemispheres.
Be that as it may, on the secession of those gentlemen, the voyage, though interrupted, was not laid aside. The Resolution not being thought capable of passing the flats, was by the Pilot brought back to Sheerness to be cut down, and the Adventure, the command of which had been given to Mr. Furneaux, second Lieutenant of the Dolphin in her second voyage that was to accompany her, was ordered round to Plymouth, there to wait the arrival of the Resolution, when restored to her former condition. During this interval, no other alterations took place in the appointments of either ship, but that John Reinhold Forster and his son, were promoted in the room of Dr. Lind, with the parliamentary encouragement.
Matters being thus far settled, the two ships were ordered to be got in readiness with the utmost expedition, and to be victualled and provided with all manner of necessaries for a three years voyage; these orders were punctually obeyed, and as we are informed, Captain Cooke was permitted to superintend the execution. The ships were likewise furnished with innumerable articles of small value, adapted to the commerce of the tropical islands.
It had been urged as a reason for former disappointments, that the Commanders were too straitly confined by their commissions, and that being restricted by the tenor of their instructions within the limits of certain latitudes, they must have been answerable for the loss of the ships with which they were entrusted, had any disaster happened to them beyond the latitudes prescribed. to obviate all pretences of this kind in the present expedition, it is said, that his Majesty recommended to his Board of Admiralty a commission of a more liberal kind, empowering Capt. Cooke, and, in case of death, his successor, to pursue at discretion the object he had in charge.
To this, and to the measures that were taken, however secretly or artfully conducted, to shake off in the beginning the cumbersome train of numerous attendants, it is, that we owe the success of a voyage, which, whether we consider it in a geographical or nautical light, we will not hesitate a moment to pronounce one of the most important that ever was performed in any age, or by any country.
This declaration, we hope, the great navigator by whom it was conducted, will pardon from a man, who, though a stranger to his person, cannot help admiring his skill, his fortitude, his care of his men, his vigilance in attending to the minutest intimations of former voyagers, his perseverance amidst the dangers and hardships of rigorous seasons; his prowess in leading his company just so far as they were capable of proceeding: in short, his conduct throughout, which, while he kept every man singly in strict obedience to his duty, he conciliated the affections of all, and secured their esteem: yet with all these powers which entitle him to the rank of a great Commander, it may be fairly inferred, that had the first intentions taken place,—had the train of gentlemen with their attendants occupied the chief accommodations of the ship, it would have been out of the power of the most determined officer to have carried such a princely retinue through the icey regions, which they were to pass without murmur, or perhaps mutiny. Be this, however, as it may, it now fully appears, that the very able navigator made choice of by his Majesty for this important service, was alone in every respect equal to the talk in which he was embarked. Superior genius can never display itself to the utmost advantage while under the check even of prudential controul; but when left at large to expand its powers, it seldom fails to perform wonders, and to accomplish the greatest undertakings.
We have indeed been told, and there is the greatest reason to believe it true, that a different course would have been pursued had Mr. Bankes and his associates taken part in the voyage; and that instead of running to New Zealand, New Holland would have been their place of general rendezvous. There, it is said, they intended to have prolonged their stay during the winter months of that hemisphere, in order, as at Ottaheitte formerly, to have cultivated an acquaintance with the natives, a new race of men, and to have examined the natural productions of the country; to have traced the arts and manners of the inhabitants of the different divisions, and to have delineated their persons, habits, warlike instruments, shipping, &c. with the rarities of every kind, that by their enquiries they could obtain, or by their vigilance discover: and thus having acquired a general knowledge of the natural history of New Holland, as the summer approached they were to have proceeded in the prosecution of the plan of government for geographical purposes, examining the high latitudes during the summer season for the discovery of the new continent, and the low latitudes in the winter for the improvement of science: though by this plan the world would still perhaps have been left in doubt as to the existence of a new continent, yet a vast country would have been laid open, of which at present very little is known.
But this plan proving abortive, it will now most evidently appear, from the perusal of the following sheets, that whoever was the projector of the present plan, a more perfect could not have been devised for deciding the point in question; and now, that it has been executed, we will venture to assert, that no proposition was ever more clearly demonstrated, than that there is no continent undiscovered in the southern hemisphere between the equator and the 50th degree of southern latitude, in which space all who have contended for its existence have included, if not the whole, at least the most considerable part. But at the same time that we declare ourselves thus clearly convinced of the non-existence of a continent within the limits just mentioned, we cannot help acknowledging our ready belief that the land our navigators discovered to the southeastward of Staten Land, is part of a continent projecting from the north in a narrow neck, and expanding to the southward and westward, in like manner as the South American continent takes its rise in the south, and enlarges as it advances northward, more particularly towards the east. In this belief we are strengthened by the strong representation of land seen at a distance by our navigators, in lat. 72 and long. 252, and by the report of Theodore Gerrards, who after passing the straits of Magellan, being driven by tempests into the latitude of 64 S. in that height came in sight of a country mountainous and covered with snow, looking like Norway, and seemingly extending from east to west. These facts corroborate each other; and though they do not reduce the question to an absolute certainty, yet the probability is greatly in favour of the new discovery.
Page 19, line 16, add, This storm began on the 29th of January.
P. 23, l. 9, dele
in a bay
; ib. l. 12, for
cold
r.
bold.
P. 36, l. 13, for 193 read 173; l. 2, from the bottom, for
numerous
read
incurious.
P. 38, l. 1, for distance of the 48th, read limits of the 50th.
P. 57, l. 22, after root, add
of.
P. 72, l. 23, read, the Resolution shortened sail till they, &c.
P. 77, l. 16, for lat. 24, read 44.
P. 107, l. 9, for casting, r. easting.
P. 108, l. 9. for shipped, r. shifted.
P. 120, l. 20, for 257 r. 237.
P. 136, l. 13, after weather (;) l. 14, after agitated (,).
P. 137, l. 21. for 10 min. r. 30 min.
P. 138, l. 9, for firm r. fine.
P. 151, l. 14, for paying r. peying.
P. 209, l. 13, after prostitution add (,).
P. 219, l. 2, from the bottom, for saw r. sew.
P. 257, l. 5, from the bottom, for back r. tackt.
P. 258, l. 5, for 176 r. 166.
Directions to the Binder for placing the Cuts.
The Chart of the Tracks of the Resolution and Adventure, to face the Title-Page.
Plate I. being a View of an Harbour and Plantations in the Island of Rotterdam, with the Manner of the Inhabitants sitting and standing, to face Page 249.
Plate II. representing the large Fields of Ice by which their Passage was obstructed, in lat. 67 deg. 10 min. S. to face Page 9.
Plate III. representing the landing of Part of the Adventure's Crew in search of their Companions, who were murdered and eaten by the Savages of New-Zealand, to face Page 94.
Plate IV. representing a View of two Burning Mountains, to face Page 253.
Plate V. being a Representation of a remarkable high Mountain, to face Page 321.
VOYAGE TO THE SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE
ALL things being in readiness, as already related, on the 13th of July they sailed from Plymouth, both ships in company, and on the 20th of the same month came in sight of Cape Finisterre, bearing W. S. W. seven or eight leagues.
On the 22d they passed two Spanish men of war, one of which fired two shot at the Adventure, to oblige her to bring to; but on hailing her, and being told they were king's ships, made a proper apology, and very politely took leave, wishing them a good voyage.
On the 28th about nine at night, they came to, and anchored in Madeira road without the least incident worth relating intervening. Here the captains and commissioned officers, and such of the petty officers and private men as had money or marketable commodities, furnished themselves with such stocks of wine as they judged necessary for their future use during the voyage, or could conveniently purchase; and having also filled their empty casks with water, and stowed them on board, they proceeded on their voyage with a pleasant gale.
On the 1st of August they lost sight of Madeira, and on the 4th saw the pleasant island of Palma, bearing S. S. W. distance about three or four leagues.
On the 8th they crossed the Tropic of Cancer, in lat. 23 deg. 30 min. N. long. 19 deg. 11 min. W. and at nine in the morning came in sight of the island of Bonavista, bearing S. W. by W. six or seven miles.
On the 12th about five in the morning, they passed the isle of May, and at two in the afternoon came to, and cast anchor in Port à Priege bay in the island of St. Jago, where they saluted the Governor with 11 four-pounders. Here they supplied both ships with plenty of good water, and here they recruited their live stock, such as hogs, goats, and poultry, some of which continued alive during the remainder of the voyage. This island is perhaps one of the most plentiful in the whole world, and yet the inhabitants are miserable poor, owing no doubt to the tyranny of their Governors.
On the 14th about ten at night both ships weighed anchor, and continued their voyage to the Cape of Good Hope, where, on the contrary, the European inhabitants are almost all rich; for, certain it is, that though the country round the Dutch settlement at the Cape is barren almost to a degree of sterility, yet by the steady perseverance of that slow people in one invariable course of cultivation, they have rendered the spot on which they are settled, in spight of nature, fruitful; and have brought it to such a fertile state as not only to produce all the necessaries of life, but even many of its delicacies too. Here every thing may be purchased for money, which at St. Jago the miserable inhabitants are glad to exchange for rags and old cloaths; but it is not a little money that will content a Dutchman for a convenience of which he knows an Englishman is in want.
Nothing remarkable happened on board either of the ships in this long run, except that the Resolution lost the carpenter's mate, who unfortunately fell over-board and was drowned; and the Adventure two very hopeful young officers, Mr. John Limbrich, and Mr. Samuel Kemp, midshipmen, by death. These were severally committed to the ocean after the manner of the solemnity used at sea, and their cloaths and sea stores sold by auction before the mast, for the benefit of their heirs.
Two men were likewise punished on board the Adventure; one a private marine for quarrelling with the quarter-master; the other a common sailor for theft: each of them received twelve lashes, which is no otherwise of importance to mention, except to shew what strict discipline it was necessary to preserve on board the ships, in order to establish a regular and peaceable behaviour in such hazardous voyages, where men unaccustomed to controul are but too apt to prove mutinous.
On the 30th of August both ships in company came to an anchor in Table-bay, where in a few days they were joined by a French ship from the Mauritius, and two Dutch ships from Middleburgh; these last, having been four months on their passage, had lost no less than 200 men by fevers and other diseases.
Here the captains were cordially received by the old Dutch Governor, said to be one of the politest, and at the same time the most friendly men in any part of the known world. Being told they were upon discovery, he gave them a general invitation to his table during their stay at the Cape, openly and candidly imparted to them all the information he had been able to collect concerning the southern continent, of which so much had been said and written; and before their departure, he did them the honour to dine on board the Resolution, which was an uncommon piece of civility to gentlemen with whom he was so slenderly acquainted.
Here both ships compleated their stock of provisions for the unknown voyage they were about to undertake; the articles they chiefly purchased were pickles of various sorts, which were found of great use on board the Resolution, in preventing, with other preservatives of the like kind, the effects of the scurvy from making the usual havock among the men. Bread, which is esteemed the best that can be purchased for long voyages; beef, which considering the warmth of the climate, is cured to admiration; arrack, brandy, and spirits, than which there are none better; these articles are all reasonable at the Cape; and as for the live-stock which the officers generally recruit, though they are dear, they are not an object of complaint, as the amount is inconsiderable in respect to the other necessaries.
Every thing being now fully prepared, the ships cleansed, and smoaked, and the crews in high spirits, all but Lieut. Shanks, of the Adventure, who desired leave to return home, on the 22d of November 1773, both ships took their departure from the Cape, but first the promotion took place in the Adventure, which the resignation of Lieut. Shanks, just mentioned, had rendered necessary. Accordingly the 2d Lieutenant Mr. Kemp, was promoted to be 1st Lieutenant, and Mr. Burney, midshipman, was made 2d Lieutenant.
Nothing remarkable, except punishing two men on board the Adventure for neglect of duty, till the 28th, when in lat. 40 deg. 55. min. S. long. 12 deg. 6 min. E. it began to blow a storm, but as the wind stood fair both ships continued to keep company.
On the 1st of December being in lat. 43 deg. 14 min. S. long. 16 deg. 23 min. E. the ships company of the Adventure, were put to two-thirds allowance of bread. Both ships continued their course to the southward, and being already as far to the south, as any ship had ever yet sailed in that quarter, all beyond was as utterly unknown as if they had been the first ships that had ever navigated the South-Seas.
On the 10th they came in sight of two islands of ice, which they took to be land, but when they bore down to them, they were soon convinced of their mistake. Lat. 49 deg. 39 min. long. 21 deg. 20 min. E.
On the 22d they came in sight of so many islands of ice that it was with the utmost difficulty that they could avoid them. Here they first observed flocks of penguins hovering about the ice-islands. Some of these islands appeared to be three or four miles in circumference, some more; but by far the greatest number appeared like the ruins of antient towns, or the fragments of gothic castles. As the air was clear and the weather fine, several of the gentlemen in both ships diverted themselves with shooting penguins, and the sailors had no less pleasure in eating them, than the gentlemen had in killing them, for the officers were not yet come to relish such rank food. Short allowance and salt provisions are certainly the best remedies in the world for delicate stomachs: the officers before their return could eat penguins as well as the men. Lat. 54 deg. 52 min. long. 29 deg. 1 min. E.
On the 26th they were every where surrounded with islands of ice, insomuch that it was with the utmost danger that they continued their course. The crews of both ships were in perfect health, but the fatigue of constantly luffing up and bearing away to avoid being dashed to pieces, was not borne without reluctance. This, however, was not all, for being entangled among the ice, their water bad, and withall beginning to run short, it was judged necessary to gather up the pieces of loose ice, in order to melt it to supply the place of that which was taken in at St. Jago, which was now become so disagreeable that the strongest stomachs recoiled at using it. Though this proved an excellent succedaneum, and was in truth a most sensible refreshment both to the officers and seamen, yet the gratification was dearly purchased by the pain of those whose lot it was to procure it; for the pieces of ice being many of them so large that two men were hardly able to lift them into the boat, it became absolutely necessary for them to plunge their arms into the water in order to get their hands under them to obtain a purchase, whereby their arms in a very short space of time put on the appearance of icicles, and became so numbed as for the present to be totally incapable of use. Yet such is the advantage of discipline, that the men would relieve each other, when commanded on this grievous service, with as much alacrity, as if it had been only to take their turn at the nightly watch. Lat. 61 deg. 35 min. long. 33 deg. 26 min. E.
Happily the weather proved moderate, so that between the 1st and the 12th of January 1773, they had gathered up such a quantity of ice, as when melted in the coppers, filled all the empty casks with the best water, as your journalists say, they had tasted since they left England.
On the 17th of January therefore Captain Cooke made the signal to his consort to tack, and to steer north-westward. In this course many interruptions happened, hard gales came on, the seas shortened, the ships by straining became leaky, the rigging by being frozen was continually snapping in one part or other, and it was with the utmost difficulty the ships could keep company.
On the 29th of January, being then in lat. 52 deg. 28 min. S. long. 54 deg. 4 min. E. a storm came on which separated them, as it was thought, for ever. This storm was attended with a prodigious fall of rain, every drop of which of the size of a common pea, the sea rose to a tremendous height, and broke over the ships bows to the height of the yard arms. The Adventure, after endeavouring in vain to recover the Resolution, had no other means of again meeting with her, but by repairing to the first place appointed to rendezvous in Charlotte-Bay, on the island of New-Zealand. In the mean time however she kept beating the seas in the most terrible weather that any ship could possibly endure. In this cruise, they traversed from lat. 48 deg. to 45 deg. S. and from long. 36 deg. to 146 deg. during the whole month of February, and part of March, in which time their water being near exhausted, they were reduced at last to the scanty allowance of a quart per man a day.
On the 1st of March, having made no discovery of land in all this disagreeable traverse, it was determined to steer to Van Dieman's land, there to take in water and repair their shattered rigging.
On the 9th of March they came in sight of that island, bearing E. by N. distance about eight leagues. They were now in lat. 43 deg. 46 min. S. and in long. 146 deg. 36 min. E. the weather much warmer, and the sea calm.
On the 20th they got within three miles of a fine bay, which they at first mistook for Henry Frederick's bay, and under that mistake hoisted out the large cutter, and sent her in shore to examine the soundings for anchorage for the ship, and to endeavour to find a watering-place, and to bring with them an immediate supply. About noon the boat returned, and brought word that they had found both wood and water, but that the latter was far from being of the best; that the wood was plenty, and the anchorage safe; that they had seen none of the natives, nor signs of any; and that the country, as far as they could see, was uninhabited, or at least uncultivated. The Captain on this intelligence, making a virtue of necessity, came to, and moored ship.
On the 12th the boats were all properly manned, and a guard of marines sent on shore to protect the different parties that were employed in cutting wood and filling water. Here they found trees of an incredible height and size, the immensity of which could never have been believed on the single testimony of the journalist before me, had not the relations of Tasman, Dampier, and Cooke, put the truth of the fact beyond dispute. He reports that here the bodies of the trees were so large that six men with their arms stretched at full length could scarce fathom them; that they were of a proportionable height; that some of them rose more than a hundred feet high; that the common height was from eighty to ninety feet, all straight, without a limb breaking out; and that in general they shewed not the least signs of decay.
On the 13th and 14th the different parties were employed in compleating their stock of wood and water; the gentlemen in reconnoitreing the country; and the carpenters, caulkers, sailmakers, and riggers, in repairing, as well as the short time allotted them would admit, the damages the ship had suffered in her cruise.
On the 15th at five in the morning, they unmoored, and about nine took their departure from the bay, which they now named the Adventure's Bay, it not appearing that any European vessel had ever before anchored there. It lies in lat. 43 deg. 23 min. S. long. 147 deg. 37 min. E.
Though during their stay they had seen none of the natives, yet as they coasted along shore they observed many fires in the night, and some cultivated fields in the day.
On the 19th they lost sight of this island, and stretched to the north eastward for New Zealand, where they expected to meet the Resolution.
On the 22d they met with a hard gale, attended with thunder, lightning, and rain, which continued the greatest part of the day.
On the 23d the storm abated, and fine weather succeeded, which continued during the remainder of the month.
On the 28th, the sky being serene, the weather moderately warm, and the sea calm, they hoisted out the small cutter, and the gentlemen went a-shooting. In a few hours they came on board with four albatrosses, the least of which measured 10 feet from tip to tip when their wings were spread to their utmost stretch.
On the 1st of April the weather began to alter; fresh breezes came on, the rains poured plentifully down, and so continued, with a few intervals of fair weather, till they came in sight of New Zealand.
On the 3d of April at six in the morning, the man from the mast head, called out, Land, which, upon a nearer approach, they knew to be the land between Rock Point and Cape Farewell, so named by Capt. Cooke when on his return from his last voyage.
On the 4th they continued their course. Nothing material happened on board, except that John Cavannah was punished with twelve lashes for being insolent to the first lieutenant.
On the 7th they came to in 10 fathom water, and next day moored ship a cable each way. In the mean time they manned the large cutter, and with a proper guard sent her to examine whether any tokens of the Commodore's arrival at that harbour were to be discovered. The boat returned, and brought word, that there did not appear the least sign of any ship having been there from the time of the Endeavour's departure in 1770 to the present hour: they therefore instantly prepared to send the tents ashore to be pitched under a proper guard for the accommodation of the sick; and those who were in health were very alert in catching fish, which they found in great plenty near the shore, and which proved of great service in recovering the sick, to whom fresh provisions were both food and physic.
On the 9th there came alongside the ship three canoes, with 15 Indians of both sexes, all of them armed with battle-axes, and with other offensive weapons made of hard wood in the form of our officers spontoons, about four feet in length, but neither bows nor arrows. The men had besides javelins or spears between 20 and 30 feet long, made of the same hard wood with which their battle-axes were formed. They had no cloaths, except a sort of mat wrapt round their shoulders, and tied about their middles with a girdle made of grass. Both men and women had a most savage appearance, and were very unwilling to trust themselves on board. The Captains and Officers made them presents, and by signs invited them to trade; they accepted the presents and some of them took courage and came upon deck; at the same time several of the sailors went down into their canoes, in one of which they discovered the head of a man, which by its bleeding seemed to be fresh cut off; our men expressing a desire to be more particularly satisfied, the Indians that remained in the canoes, with surprising dexterity, instantly conveyed it out of sight, and those on board observing the discovery, left the ship precipitately with visible marks of displeasure.
On the 10th, about eight in the morning, five canoes came along side the ship with about forty Indians to trade. They brought fish, which the ships company purchased at a cheap rate. Having disposed of all their cargoes about noon, they went away seemingly in great good humour.
On the 12th, the weather continuing fair, and the Indians friendly, the Captain and Officers were preparing to go ashore, when about nine in the morning no less then ten canoes came padling down the sound. They counted 120 natives of both sexes, all of them armed as before. When they came along side they seemed to express a desire to be admitted on board; but the Captain not liking their countenance, gave orders, that a few only should be admitted at a time; and even these behaved so rudely that the sailors were obliged to turn them out, it having appeared that they came with a design to make themselves masters of the ship. However, when they found the crew was upon their guard, they became more civil, but not before a great gun was fired over their heads, which was the only thing that intimidated them. Being thus reduced to order, the people on board shewed them several trifling articles, such as beads, nails, little clasp knives, scissars, cloth, paper, and other trifles, which they exchanged with the Indians for their battle axes, spears, weapons of various sorts, fish-hooks, and other curiosities, the manufacture of the country. Being visibly disappointed in their design, they soon departed, all gabbling together in a language, a word of which no one on board could understand. Previous to their departure, however, the Captain and officers made presents to those among them who appeared to be chiefs, which they accepted seemingly very well pleased.
During the remainder of the month, when the weather was fair, parties of the natives came every day to traffic; the women were permitted to bring their trade on board, and a friendly intercourse seemed to be established on both sides. The gentlemen went every day on shore, some to botonise, some to reconnoitre the country, some to shoot land birds, and each to pursue that diversion with which he was most delighted. The sick recovered fast, the men were permitted by turns to go ashore, but the main business of providing wood and water for continuing the voyage, of repairing the damage the ship had received, and of over-hawling the rigging, airing the powder, shifting the ballast, smoaking and cleansing the ships hold, and between decks; these were matters of moment that were unremittingly attended to. In the mean time while they continued in harbour, the men were put to 2-3ds allowance of beef, pork, and oil; the two first articles they did not much regret, but of the last they thought it hard to be abridged, when having plenty of fish, they stood most in need of sauce.
By this time the reader, it may be presumed is in pain for the Resolution, more than three months having elapsed since the Adventure lost sight of her. On the 18th of May, however, she was seen to the great joy of the spectators, at Jackson's-Point, working up to the Sound, and at seven at night she came and moored just by the Adventure. The pleasure the ships companies felt at their meeting can only be conceived by those who have been themselves in like circumstances; each were eager to learn the others success, and each were as eager to relate as the others were to hear. The reader, however, is already acquainted with the progress of the Adventure; what happened to the Resolution remains to be related.
It may be recollected that the ships parted company in a hard gale on the 29th of January in lat. 52 deg. 28 min. S. and in long. 54 deg. 4 min. E.
It should seem that their instructions were to examine the seas to the southward of Dieman's-Land and New-Zealand, from W. to E. as far as they were practicable; and for that purpose having sailed so far to the southward as to ascertain with certainty the non-existence of any continent, as far as the 68th degree of latitude in a southerly direction from the Cape of Good Hope; they then changed their course to the north-eastward till they arrived in the 50th degree of south latitude, when they again altered their course, steering eastward as long as they could keep the sea.
It has been already observed, that it was on the 17th of January, which answers to the 17th of July in our hemisphere, that the ships reached the extreme point of their southing, and now the summer, which is but short in those high latitudes, wasting apace, and winter approaching, rendered the utmost diligence necessary to complete what they had in view before the freezing season came on. The Commodore, therefore, with great judgment and propriety, pursued his course to the eastward, being thoroughly convinced that if a southern continent existed, it must be discoverable in that direction.
These however are only conjectural surmises, arising from the courses which the journals before me represent. It might therefore be the less necessary for the ships to keep company, as both being apprised of the business about which they were employed, wanted no instructions from each other to pursue the main object.
It should seem however that the Resolution took a larger scope than the Adventure, keeping rather beyond the 60th degree, while the Adventure seems to have kept within it.
It were little more than a repetition of the Adventure's distresses to particularize the effects of the boisterous weather that were felt by the crew of the Resolution on this traverse; being sometimes surrounded with islands of ice, out of which they could only extricate themselves by the utmost exertion of their skill in seamanship; sometimes involved in sheets of sleet and snow, and in mists so dark that a man on the forecastle could not be seen from the quarter-deck; sometimes the sea rolling mountains high, while the running tackle, made brittle by the severity of the frost, was frequently snapping, and sometimes rendered immoveable by the accumulation of ice and snow. Amidst the hardships of such a navigation, there is nothing so astonishing, as that the crew continued in perfect health, scarce a man being so ill as to be incapable of duty. Nothing can redound more to the honour of the Commander, than his paying particular attention to the preservation of health among his crew. By observing the strictest discipline from the highest to the lowest, his commands were duly observed, and punctually executed. When the service was hard, he tempered the severity of it by frequently relieving those employed in the performance, and, having all hands at command, he was never under the necessity of continuing the labour of any set of men beyond what their strength and their spirits could bear. Another necessary precaution was, that when the weather was fine, and the breeze steady, he never suffered any of his men to be idle, but constantly employed the armourers, the carpenters, the caulkers, the sailmakers, ropemakers, the other tradesmen on board, as well as the foremastmen and professed navigators, in doing something each in his own way, which, though not immediately wanted, he knew there would be a call for before the voyage was completed. Having by this means no time for gaming, quarrelling, or rioting among them, he kept them in action, and punished drunkenness with the utmost severity: and thus by persevering in a steady line of conduct, he preserved their health, and was enabled by that precaution to keep the sea till reduced to a very scanty portion of water; and till despairing of finding any new land, and fully satisfying himself of the non-existence of any continent in the quarter which he had traversed, he found it necessary to direct his course to Charlotte Sound, the place appointed, as has been observed, for the ships to rendezvous in case of separation, but was not able to effect his purpose.
On the 22d of March however, having seen no land from the 22d of November, when he left the Cape, he came in sight of the southernmost part of New Zealand, that island being divided in the middle by a narrow sound, which gives name to the harbour appointed for the place of rendezvous.
On the 25th they made land; but the wind proving contrary, they were obliged to stand off all night. Finding in the morning the impossibility of bearing down to Charlotte Sound, the Captain gave orders to steer to Duskey Bay, so named in his former voyage, situate in a bay between the 45th and 46th degrees of south latitude, in which the whole navy of England might ride in safety. In this bay they found a harbour so cold, that they ran close in shore, and steadied the ship by dropping an anchor short, and fastening a large bow-line to a tree on the land. A party was immediately sent out to fish, who soon returned, having caught as many as were enough for a meal for the whole ship's company.
On the 26th the small cutter was sent out properly armed, in search of a convenient place to wood and water: and having discovered a cove in which there was a fine run of water, and wood enough to supply a fleet, they shifted their station, and moored the ship in that cove so near the shore, that for an easy communication with the land they erected a temporary stage, one of the chief supports of which grew right out from the beach.
On the 27th an Indian canoe came to the mouth of the cove, but was afraid to enter. There were four or five Indians in it, who just peep'd in to look at the ship, and hastily departed.
After dinner, Capt. Cooke, accompanied by Mr. Foster, and attended by some of his officers, having ordered out the cutter, followed the course which the Indians seemed to take, and soon discovered the place of their habitation, which however they had deserted. It was a wretched hut made of the bark and boughs of trees, and in it they found a fish ready roasted, and wrapped up in leaves, and a net with which the fish was catched. The Captain left some trifles in the hut, which however the Indians never came to take away.
On the 28th a tent was erected for the coopers to cleanse and repair the water casks. The large cutter was every day employed in fishing for the ship's company; and a party was sent out to kill water-fowl, of which they found great abundance.
On the 29th a forge was erected on shore for the armourer's use, to make and mend such iron work as the carpenters wanted to repair the ship. All hands, but such as had leave to fish or kill game, were busied in different tasks about the ship. As yet none of the natives appeared, the Captain every day employed several hours in surveying the harbour, and Mr. Foster in searching the mountains and plains for ores and plants by land; but the weather being variable, and rain falling plentifully, retarded the progress of their researches, and frequently confined them to their cabins, to their no small mortification.
On the 3d of April as the Captain, attended only by the boats crew, was taking his survey as usual among the islands, he perceived an aged Indian standing upon a point of land that projected a little way into the sea, and observing his motions, took notice that he seemed to wave a bough which he held in his hand, as an invitation for the boat to approach the shore. The Captain, who was totally unprepared for resistance, was yet under no apprehensions of mischief from the friendly appearance of the old man; and fearless of danger, caused the boat's crew to put him on shore without a companion. As soon as he was landed, the Indian came forward, and saluted him by grasping him by the arms, and pressing him face to face. He was accompanied by a young woman who held a kind of spear in her hand full eighteen feet long, and by two elderly women with three or four children. They seemed to be one secluded family, and by their behaviour, not wholly destitute of humanity. They were all habited nearly alike. Their hair, which was of a shining black, was tied in a knot upon the crowns of their heads. Their apparel was uniformly
with the old man and his family to come on board the ship, but it was afterwards discovered that some ceremonies were wanting to ratify the peace. The Indian had brought his green bough, and presented it to the Captain, but the Captain had omitted to present a green bough in return. This being understood, when the Captain went next to surveying, he took care to place himself in full view of the Indians place of abode, and, as he had supposed, the old man came again to the sea-side. The Captain having prepared a bough on purpose, upon his approach waved it in the boat and immediately rowed to land. The Indian on his landing embraced him, and having a bough in his hand, made a long speech, which though not intelligible, was yet delivered with so much grace and dignity, as would have done honour to an European orator. They then exchanged their boughs, and the old man made great professions of friendship, which those people have many ways of expressing unknown to Europeans, giving the Captain at the same time to understand that all manner of distrust was now at an end.
From this time the old man came down to the ship without fear; and Mr. Foster, and those who were curious, had frequent opportunities of visiting and conversing with the family, if that may be called conversing, when neither party understand a word of each others language.
When the old man came first on board, he was attended only by one daughter, who was young and lively. The Captain received him with great cordiality, and the Indian seemed highly delighted, inspecting and admiring every thing that was shewn him; both he and his daughter were invited to eat, but they declined that civility. While the old man was attentive to the manual arts about which the men were employed on board, the daughter was no less pleased with the playwardness of the sailors, who endeavoured to make themselves agreeable to her by striving who should make her the most acceptable presents. Of all the arts the Indian saw the people employed about on board, none seemed to strike him so much as the facility with which the sawyers cut out their plank from the solid tree; he was so pleased with that operation, that he was very desirous of taking the pitman's place himself; and being permitted so to do, but not succeeding to his wish in the performance, he soon gave out; but could not be diverted from attending to the sawyers, preferably to any of the other handicrafts, the carpenter's excepted, whose business, however, being more complicated he could not so well comprehend.
Having spent most part of the day in gratifying his curiosity; and the daughter being no less delighted than her father with the attention that had been paid her, it drawing towards evening, they both took leave and departed.
After some time it was discovered, that this family was the same, who at the first coming of the ship, deserted their habitation on the shore, and betook themselves to the covert of the woods. On this part of the island, which was the most southerly, and consequently the coldest and most unpromising, the inhabitants were but few, and lived in continual terror. The country at a little distance from the shore being rude, woody and mountainous, was their chief security against the incursions of their northern countrymen, who if they can take them by surprize, carry them off in like manner as the savage beasts of the forest carry off their prey when impelled by hunger. This very naturally accounts for the deserted condition in which our voyagers found this part of the country; for though it abounded in fish, it was destitute of every other necessary of life, wood and water excepted. There were neither fowls nor animals, save sea-fowls, of which last the natives were not dexterous enough to avail themselves, and they had no other means of supplying their want of bread, but by bruising the inner rind of a certain tree, and roasting it to eat with their fish. How they procured cloathing, for cloathing they had, we are yet to learn. It is no wonder therefore, that at the approach of a vessel of such an uncommon magnitude and structure as the Resolution, a solitary family of which an old man was the sole defender, should on its landing appear to be frighted, probably expecting to be eaten, as they could not suppose strangers to have more tenderness and humanity than their own countrymen.
On Monday the 19th the Captain and Mr. Foster, took a tour up the country, and in their way visited the old man and his family at their new habitation on the skirt of the wood, and were welcomed by them in a manner they did not expect. In less time than could well be imagined, they all appeared clean dressed in their manner, a fire was made by rubbing two sticks together, which seems to be the universal method in use among the natives throughout the southern hemisphere, and they began dressing fish in a peculiar manner, intreating their guests at the same time to stay and eat; the fish they intended for the strangers was differently dressed from that eaten in common by themselves. Having prepared the fire they made a kind of bag of a broad-leaved sea-weed, in which they placed a fish about the size of a small cod: this fish thus inclosed, they placed upon a kind of stage made of hard wood in the nature of a grid-iron, and underneath they supplied live-coals as often as those first put under became deadened by the droppings from the sea-weed; this they continued to do till the fish within became brown as if baked in an oven; and then they offered it to the strangers in clean leaves gathered fresh from the trees. Their bread, as has been said, was the inner bark of a tree cleansed and bruised, and made up in a way peculiar to themselves; and their sauce was a sea-weed, which, it was supposed, served them both for salt and vinegar. The gentlemen declined the invitation with regard to eating, but were much pleased with the neatness of their cooking; some of the sailors, however, were not so dainty; they not only eat with them a-days, but slept with them a-nights.
On Tuesday the 20th, the gentlemen being at a considerable distance from the ship surveying the different islands in the bay, and in sounding the depths, and securing a free passage for the ship as soon as she should be in a condition to sail, they observed a company of Indians, who by their motions seemed to be more courageous than the family we have been just describing. These were armed after the manner of their northern countrymen, and threatened hostilities by brandishing their lances. Their threats, however, had no other effect than hastening the pinnace to approach the land. The Captain, with only a sheet of white paper in his hand, jumped ashore; and, after narrowly escaping being struck with a launce which was thrown at him by a young warrior, continued advancing till he reached a tree, from whence having broken a bough, he made towards the natives, who were but few in number, and who seemed in a great measure to have vented their rage in the first attack. They met him with boughs which they dropt at his feet, and he instantly dropt his upon theirs. Peace being in this manner concluded, an exchange of some articles took place, and the Captain made presents to the women of such trifles as they were most likely to be pleased with, and invited them to follow him to the pinnace. They made signs in return for him and his followers to go with them; but observing more of their company peeping from the woods, he thought it most adviseable to return on board. He was no sooner embarked than they all came down to the water's edge, and being shewn several articles of small value, they fancied most of them, and were gratified each with what he liked best.
At another island more Indians were discovered, who by waving a bird's skin, made signs for the pinnace to land; but night coming on, and the pinnace being at a considerable distance from the ship, the Captain gave orders to steer for the cove.
Nothing remarkable happened till the 26th. The people continued to prepare for sailing; and in the mean time the brewers were set to work to brew beer for the ship's use. This, it seems, had been strongly recommended by Mr. M'Bride as a preservative against the scurvy, and there is no doubt but it contributed, with the other means that were used, to produce that salutary effect. The crew continued in perfect health; and while their beer lasted, preferred it to every other liquor. Mr. M'Bride, indeed, prescribes the wort as the most effectual remedy; but the beer while new may differ very little in its quality.
On the 28th the tents on shore were struck, the wood that had been cut brought on board, and the water properly stowed in the hold; the sails all bent, the ship unmoored, and all but the Captain, and those who accompanied him, called to their stations.
On the 29th the ship was towed a-head, and at four in the afternoon was under sail with a fine breeze. At five it fell calm, and at seven, there being no likelihood of advancing, came to, and anchored in 50 fathom water. At night saw a fire at a distance.
On the 30th weighed, and came to sail about eleven o'clock; but the wind dying away, the boats continued towing till night came on, when they again cast anchor among the islands in 42 fathom water. The weather continuing fine, the ship's company were plentifully supplied with fish, and were in high spirits, hoping soon to meet their associates in the Adventure at the appointed place of rendezvous.
May 1, they weighed anchor in expectation of taking advantage of a breeze of wind that sprung up about nine in the morning; but that proving contrary, they stretched from shore to shore without making any considerable way, and in the evening turned into a little cove and cast anchor. Here they catched abundance of fish, and killed some water-fowl. The shore was so bold, that in turning into the cove the ensign-staff was entangled among the trees, and had it not been stronger than the branches that encumbered it, the ship's course must infallibly have been stopt. The boughs, however, gave way, and they cast anchor close by the shore.
May the 5th weighed and came to sail, and with difficulty arrived at a convenient birth not above four little miles from the main ocean.
On the 6th at night they had a strong gale, attended with thunder, lightning, and hail.
On the 9th they hoisted inn the launch, and cleared the decks ready for sea, while the pinnace and small cutter were employed in fowling and fishing for the ship's use.
On the 11th they weighed anchor, and got clear of the bay, to which the Captain in his former voyage had given the name of Dusky Bay, because it being hazy when he passed it, he could discover nothing about it. The north point of this bay is rendered remarkable by five high peaked rocks which lie off, and give it the appearance of the four fingers and thumb of a man's hand. The harbour is considerably within land, and lies in lat. 45 deg. 47 min. S. and in long. 193 deg. 17 min. W.
Of the inhabitants of this part of New Zealand little can be said, as the family already described was the only one with which the ships held any intercourse. Other inhabitants there certainly were, but not in considerable numbers. The Captain in circumnavigating the northern and southern divisions of the island, had already remarked the different dispositions of the inhabitants in the different parts of it. In some he found them fierce and bloody, hostile, and irreconcileable; in other places friendly, and ready to enter into traffic; at a distance from these the people they saw seemed indifferent and numerous, scarce thinking it worth while to suspend their ordinary employments but for a moment to take notice of the uncommon structure of so rare an object as an European ship; and here, though the inhabitants must know the place where the strangers lay, scarce any of them for more than a month came to visit them.
On the 17th, having met with nothing in their passage worth relating, they came in sight of the western entrance of Charlotte Sound; but to their great astonishment found themselves surrounded with water-spouts, some of them not more than three or four hundred yards from the ship's course, and having but little wind to clear them, were in the utmost terror, dreading their effects. It happened, however, providentially, that none of them broke till the ship had reached the Sound, where she cast anchor about seven at night within two miles distance of her consort, the Adventure, which in the morning she found almost in readiness to sail. Nothing could equal the joy of their meeting, when they were mutually assured that no disaster had befallen either.
They had now ranged an unfrequented sea, from the first degree of eastern longitude (to which they had returned after directing their course to the southward from the Cape of Good Hope) to the 167th degree of the same longitude, and having kept beyond the 45th degree of south latitude, and within the distance of the 48th without once seeing each other, or discerning the least appearance of land, it may be affirmed with certainty, that no continent exists within those limits, and that all the conjectures and positive assertions of former navigators, and the reasoning of geographers and astronomers concerning a Terra Incognita Australis, have not the least foundation in truth, but are mere fictions unsupported by facts, and now fully disproved by uncontrovertible demonstration.
As the winter was now far advanced in that climate, it became necessary to hasten their departure, in order to pursue their discoveries as it was thought in the warmer climates. With this view both ships supplied themselves with as much wild celery and other wholesome greens as the people employed in that service could gather, and the ships conveniently stow. The brewers likewise on board the Resolution made a second brewing of the malt they carried with them; but it does not appear that the Adventure was equally provided with malt.
On the 4th of June they celebrated his Majesty's birth-day with great rejoicings. The marines were drawn up on shore, and fired in honour of the day; and the evening concluded with bonfires and fireworks, to the great astonishment of the Indian beholders.
On the 7th of June both ships set sail; but instead of steering an easterly and north easterly course, as our journalists imagined they would do, from the advanced state of the season, they continued their discoveries to the south, steering E. S. E. for several days, till they came into the old course between the 47th and 48th degrees of south latitude; but here they found rhe weather so rigorous and intolerably cold, that in lat. 47 deg. 26 min. S. long. 186 deg. 32 min. E. they changed their course E. by N. which soon brought them into a warmer climate. This was on the 16th of June, the very height of their winter.
On the 24th of June they found themselves in lat. 43 deg. 58 min. S. and on the 27th in lat. 42 deg. 23 min. long. 196 deg. 30 min. E. in which direction they continued to sail with little or no variation till the 15th of July, when the weather, which from the time of changing their course to that day, had proved moderate, began to alter; strong gales came on, and what was still worse, the scurvy began to shew itself on board the Adventure, and in a short time disabled half her men. In all this long run they never had once sight of land; so that now they had ranged more than half the southern hemisphere in various parallels, but all beyond any known tracks, and, except Van Deiman's Land, and New Zealand, both already sufficiently described, they had seen nothing but sky and sea.
On July the 16th they again changed their course E. N. E. till they came into a still milder climate; and being happy in having moderate breezes and fair weather, on the 20th of July they found themselves in lat. 31 deg. 34 min. and in long. 222 deg. 16 min. E.
On August the 1st the scurvy had prevailed so much on board the Adventure, that the men who remained in health were obliged to do double duty: and this was the more remarkable as there were but two men ill on board the Resolution, one of a consumption, the other of the rheumatism. They were now in latitude 25 deg. 11 min. and 226 deg. 57 min. E. sailing a westerly course for Otaheite.
The Adventure had lost her cook by death, and there being no man to be spared on board that ship, one William Chapman, an old seaman on board the Resolution, was appointed in his room.
On the 11th they discovered three small low islands bearing W. S. W. distance about three leagues. They were now in lat. 17 deg. and long. 218 deg. 30 min. nearly.
Aug. 12, about five in the morning, the Resolution made the signal for land, and was answered by the Adventure, when they saw a small low island surrounded by a chain of rocks, on which the Resolution was near striking before she discovered her danger.
Every day now brought them in sight of small islands, of which Tupia is said to have laid down a plan of more than 100 of his own knowledge, most of them within the Tropics.
On the 15th of August they came in sight of Osnaburgh-island, so named by the Dolphin, about a degree and a half to the eastward of Otaheite, and the same day came in sight of Otaheite to their great joy.
On the 16th the weather being fair and calm, about eleven o'clock in the forenoon, the current carried them close inn shore upon a reef of rocks, on which the Resolution struck several times, but received no material damage. The Adventure came to with the coasting anchor, and hoisted out her boats, and got two small anchors and hawsers to warp her off shore; but in warping both hawsers broke, and they lost both anchors; about six in the evening they slipt their coasting cable, and came to sea with the Resolution. The Resolution had likewise grounded, and had been obliged to cut her cable to get clear.
On the 17th both ships anchored in a bay at the north-side of the island; a great number of the Indians surrounded the ships on their first approaching the shore, and when they were made to understand that they came from Britain, they cried out for Toobia, Banks, and Solander, their old friends, neither of whom being on board, the Captains shewed themselves to the populace, who soon remembered them. They brought their boats loaded with fruits, but neither hogs nor fowls.
Tents were now erected and the sick people from the Adventure carried on shore, who recovered fast.
And here it must be observed that our journalist of the Resolution frequently mentions smoaking the ship with bruised gunpowder and vinegar; bringing the hammocks from between decks, and airing them when the weather was fine; and washing and scraping the ship; whereas no such important matters are taken notice of more than once by the journalist of the Adventure, though it can hardly be supposed that such precautions could be omitted, were it not that the men on board the first ship suffered nothing by the scurvy, while those on board the other were almost all affected.
While the ships continued in this station, which probably was chosen as less exhausted of live-stock than that where the Endeavour had lain so long in her former voyage, the people were friendly, and supplied the ships plentifully with fruits; but hogs and poultry were hardly to be purchased at any rate, nor indeed were any to be seen, except such as were brought in presents for the Captains and gentlemen on board.
The crews of both ships had paid the utmost obedience to their officers while at sea, yet here it was hardly practicable with the strictest discipline to restrain the excesses of the common men, or to keep them to their duty; it was not unusual for three or four of them one day with another to be punished for going on shore, and one day in particular no less than ten of them were punished for the same offence; of whom seven were the Adventure's men, who were scarce recovered from their illness.
The inhabitants of this island have already been so fully described, that hardly any thing new can be added: One circumstance indeed, seems to have escaped the notice of former voyagers, and that is their fidelity to those who condescended to place confidence in them as particular friends. To such there is no service that they will not readily submit, nor any good office that they will not willingly perform; they will range the island through to procure them what they want, and when encouraged by kindness and some small presents and tokens of esteem, no promises or rewards will influence them to break their attachments, or to dissolve the connections so formed, and generously supported; of this, our journalists had many proofs. This principle, however, is not to be understood to comprehend chastity among the women; for these, by their education, being bred to the practice of sensual delights, pride themselves more in giving pleasure to many, than in being constant to one; their intercourse with men generally begins before reason has any power in the government of the passions, and till they become mothers, their indulgence with men is held in no disgrace. But there seems to be in nature something instinctive that supersedes the most confirmed habit, and inclines the mother to seek an assistant for the protection and preservation of her young: She therefore attaches herself to the father, and the father takes pleasure in protecting and providing for his offspring; hence it is, that there are very few instances of adultery among the natives of Otaheite; for where the commerce with the virgin is restricted by no law, there is no temptation to the gratification of the coarser passions, with those who are already, as it may be supposed, palled with their enjoyment. Thus it happens that a crime which is held in the utmost abhorrence in civilized countries, and which is productive of the most complicated evils, is so little known in this savage country, as Europeans affect to call it, as scarce to have a name. Jealousy, though a self-tormenting passion, and productive of a whole train of malignant effects in European countries, is here too without a sting. In short, the subtile refinements which civilization has introduced among mankind, being utterly unknown among this happy people, their crimes are few, because the propensities of nature are universally tolerated, and there being no contention about monied property, and the earth yielding spontaneously almost all the necessaries of life, nothing remains punishable among them that is not here punishable in a state of infancy, when every father is the legislature of his family.
Perhaps that propensity to theft, for which the inhabitants of all the isles in the South-Seas, are so lavishly stigmatized by Europeans, may yet be found, upon examination, to be less criminal in them than it is generally esteemed. Is it not very natural, when a people see a company of strangers come among them, and without ceremony cut down their trees, gather their fruits, seize their animals, and, in short, take whatever they want, that such a people should use as little ceremony with the strangers, as the strangers do with them; if so, against whom is the criminality to be charged, the christian or the savage? He that sets the example, or he that follows it. Perhaps their propensity to thieving may be much less powerful among themselves than the same propensity is among us, where though the punishment attending it is the severest that can be inflicted, yet the effects of it are not to be restrained even by the terrors of death. Why then upbraid the savage with thievery? Is it because in other respects he shames the christian by the innocence of his life? or that, having one crime in common with the christian, all his other virtues are to be cancelled?
But even this crime, if in the circumstances we have mentioned, it can be called a crime, was easily restrained. No sooner were the conditions of traffic made known to them and perfectly understood, than they on their part honestly adhered to it. For a hatchet, they gave a hog, and for a nail a capon. Surely the stranger had no reason to complain of extortion against the native, nor to give him an ill name for supplying all that he wanted upon the easiest terms. It should seem, from the relations of our journalists, as well as from the reports of all former voyagers, that when the natives of the Southern islands were satisfied that the Europeans came with no hostile intentions to invade their country, they were not only willing to exchange with them what articles they seemed most to desire; but to load them with presents of the best things which their countries produced; of this the British voyagers received many proofs. When they met with opposition, it was from the formidable appearance they made, and from the apprehension the natives conceived of their mischievous designs; but those apprehensions once removed, all prejudices ceased of course.
On the 21st of August the ships prepared to shift their stations; and on the 25th they cast anchor in Port Royal harbour, where the Endeavour had formerly been moored for more than three months. Here the chief articles of trade were hatchets, knives, scissars, rasors, combs, looking-glasses, all sorts of nails and iron, white stone beads, white shirts, &c. Grand necklaces, ear-rings, and artificial flowers, they paid little regard to.
It is remarkable, that the only animals our voyagers saw upon this part of the island, (a few hogs and dogs excepted) were rats, and these swarmed the most where the island was most inhabited; nay, they seemed to be cherished by the inhabitants, who often fed them with fruit, and, instead of destroying them, kept them tame about their houses, like as we do cats.
No sooner were the ships moored in this harbour, than all hands were set to work in different employments. The astronomers tent and apparatus were set up on shore, where the Captains of both ships chiefly attended. Mr. Foster went abroad every day in search of new productions; the armourers and carpenters were busied in repairing, the coopers in cleaning and new-hooping the casks; the waterers in filling them, and the woodmen in felling wood: in short, every person was employed, and not a moment lost in fitting out the ships for compleating their voyage.
It had been lamented in the course of the former voyage, that the commerce of the women with the European strangers had entailed upon the natives the dreadful curse that on the first discovery of America had depopulated half Spain;
"that the sufferings of the first victims by the venereal infection had been intolerably grievous; that it caused the hair and the nails to fall off, and the flesh to rot upon the bones; that it spread an universal terror and consternation among them; so that the sick were abandoned by their nearest relations, lest, like the leprosy, the disease should spread by contagion, and they were suffered to perish alone in such misery as till then had never been known among them."
Yet it does not appear that any remains of it were discoverable among them on the arrival of the present voyagers, though many of the seamen felt the smart of the infection before their departure. There is, therefore, no reason to doubt but that the distemper may be generated by the impurities which usually attend indiscriminate commerce with a variety of men. Whether the inhabitants have yet found out a cure, or whether the infected are still suffered to languish in their former extreme of misery, till they are relieved by death, does not yet fully appear: but one may reasonably suppose, that had the latter been the case, the women would have been more cautious, and the men more vigilant in with-holding from the embraces of strangers, those who were to be the mothers of their future progeny. Be this as it may, the girls were as usual without restraint; and the sailors, as usual, were sufferers by their freedom.
On the 1st of September, the ships being repaired, the water and wood stowed on board, the sick recovered, and the tents struck, about four in the afternoon they unmoored and came to sail. The reason assigned for thus suddenly quitting their station was, because no hogs were to be purchased; but a better reason seems to be the real one; and that was, that the sailors in general were so taken with the delights of the place, and so smitten with the charms of their mistresses, that it was apprehended many would have secreted themselves on shore, and quitted the ships, had they imagined that the time of their departure had been so near; and of this they afterwards had a striking proof, as shall be related in its place.
Having a favourable gale, they continued to steer to the N. W. all night.
On the 2d of September they came in sight of Huaheiny, one of the Society Isles, off which they cast anchor the same night. Early in the morning in working into Owhana Road the Adventure missed stays, and backed a-stern upon a reef of rocks on the larboard side in going in; but by the assistance of the Resolution's boats, added to their own, they got off with very little damage. They then warped into the bay, and moored ship with the small bower and stream anchors, and were soon joined by the Resolution.
In this harbour strict orders were issued, that none of the men should trade for hogs or fowls. This precaution was taken to prevent the articles which they had on board to exchange with the natives from sinking in their value, as they certainly would have done, if every one had been at liberty to give what he would, and to purchase what number he pleased. The Captain, therefore, very wisely, in order, besides, to avoid the confusion that such a market would necessarily produce, appointed purveyors, by which both ships were amply and plentifully supplied, and at an easy rate.
Here an accident happened that might have been productive of very serious consequences. One of the gentlemen belonging to the Adventure, by name Mr. Spearman, having made an excursion into the woods by himself, was suddenly set upon by a party of Indians, who had observed and track'd him, and who, having first disarmed him, not only stript and robbed him of his cloaths, and what things of value he had about him, but beat him because he made resistance. This outrage, had it been suffered to pass unresented, would certainly have been productive of other outrages of the same kind; and therefore it became necessary to pursue some means for redress. They were very unwilling, as no blood had yet been spilt, to proceed to extremities, and equally unwilling to suffer the offenders to escape with their booty. They therefore contrived to get the King and Queen into their power; and when they were in the height of their entertainment on board, Mr. Spearman appeared in the miserable condition in which he had been left by the robbers. The Captain, pointing to Mr. Spearman, and addressing himself to the royal guests, gave them to understand, that the gentleman who stood before them had been cruelly used by a company of their people, and that he had lost both his cloaths and his arms; at the same time he insisted, that strict orders should immediately be issued for apprehending the thieves, and for restoring every thing they had taken away, even to the minutest article: he added, that they must consent to be his hostages till justice was done upon the offenders. This spirited measure produced the desired effect. The robbers were immediately pursued and taken. They had already parted their booty, and each brought back what had fallen to his share. The next step was to see them punished; and, being brought on board, in order, as they thought, to be put to death, they were bound and stript. It is impossible to describe the terrors expressed in the countenances of these poor savages on this occasion; but just as they apprehended the hand of the executioner was to be lifted up against them, they were released, and presented to Mr. Spearman, before whom they crouched with such different emotions of fear and joy as can only be conceived by those who have been eye-witnesses of their different gestures. Mr. Spearman raised them up, and presented them unhurt to their Majesties, who received them with joy and gratitude, loading the ships with presents after they were released; for they were little less terrified while in confinement than the criminals who had committed the offence.
After this adventure the ships prepared to sail, in order to visit Ulietea, an island within sight, and much more considerable than Huaheiny. Just as they weer ready to depart an Indian came on board, and offered to enter a volunteer for Europe. It was debated whether they should entertain him; but at last it was agreed to suffer him to proceed, as they might, perhaps, have an opportunity of landing him at some other island within his knowledge, should he afterwards express a dislike to continue the voyage.
On the 7th of September about seven in the morning they unmoored, and about half after eight came to sail in company together, directing their course westward with a gentle breeze and fair weather. When the ship was under sail, and the last canoe going off, the Indian called to his countrymen, cried much, and gave them some nails as presents to his friends; but in a day or two he appeared gay, and quite happy.
On the 8th they arrived off Ulietea, and about noon anchored in a fine bay, where they were immediately surrounded with canoes from all quarters, with hogs, fowls, fruits of various kinds, particularly bread-fruit, bananas, plantains, and cocoa nuts, with which the ships were plentifully supplied. As these fruits have all been repeatedly described by former voyagers, it is not our design to tire the reader with repetitions. Suffice it to say, that while their stock of fruits lasted, the men never tasted biscuit; nor while they could get fresh provisions did they ever eat salt. It seems, indeed, a very great mistake, that the hogs purchased here can neither be preserved for any continuance of time alive or dead, nor their fowls any more than their hogs kept alive longer than the fruits of the country on which they are accustomed to feed, can be preserved sound; because in that case a greater number than could be consumed in a certain time, would rather be an incumbrance than a benefit;—but the contrary is the fact;—so that at this island and that of Otaha adjoining, they purchased a very considerable stock. Here likewise they filled their empty water-casks, and having prepared every thing for a long voyage, on the 17th in the morning they set sail.
The inhabitants of all the society islands seem to be nearly alike in manners, customs, and dispositions; the women, in particular, are without modesty, and the men without courage; they have neither the manly boldness of the Ohoteroans, nor the savage fierceness of the New-Zealanders; but are in general an effeminate race, intoxicated with pleasure, and enfeebled by indulgence.
They have amongst them many sports and entertainments, in some more refined than in others, and our voyagers have remarked a distinction in their features, such as is observable in Great-Britain between the English and the Welch, and between the Lowland Scotch and the Highlanders; in general they ascribe to the Ulietean ladies a portion of beauty and delicacy superior to the other nations in the Southern-Hemisphere, and equal, if they may be credited, to the inhabitants of any nation upon earth. The journalists of the Resolution, (speaking by way of comparison with the Otaheiteans,) say, the girls are here much fairer, and more loving. The writer of Captain Cooke's former voyage, says
"the natural complexion of the Otaheiteans is that kind of clear olive or brunette, which many people in Europe prefer to the finest white and red; the shape of the face is comely; their eyes, especially those of the women are full of expression, sometimes sparkling with fire, and sometimes melting with softness; their teeth most beautifully even and white, and their breath perfectly without taint."
The same writer relating
manner of his voyagers reception on visiting a family at Ulietea, says,
"in the first house they entered, they found some very young women dressed with the utmost neatness, who kept their station, expecting the strangers to make them presents, which they did with the greatest pleasure, for prettier girls they had never seen; there was one of them about six years old, stretched out her hand to receive the beads, which they offered her, and no princess in Europe could have done it with a better grace."
This may suffice to give a general idea of the inhabitants of these delightful islands, which it is more than probable are the same which Quiros, the Spanish voyager, dignified with the name of the isles of Soloman. They lie between the latitudes of 16 deg. 10 min. and 16 deg. 55 min. S. and between the longitude 150 deg. 57 min. and 152 deg. west of London; or, as our voyagers compute, between the long. of 208 and 209 deg. E.
On the 18th both ships set sail in company; they had on board 160 hogs, and a large quantity of bread, and fruit, and they had pleasant weather, and a favourable gale; their course W. S. W.
Nothing remarkable till the 23d, when in lat. 19 deg. 6 min. S. and long. 201 deg. 53 min. E. they came in sight of a low small island bearing S. W. by S. Course W. S. W. wind S. E. At half past eleven in the forenoon hauled up, but not finding any entrance, bore away W. S. W. as before.
On the 25th saw some land birds, and flying fish, but no other signs of land.
On the 29th at noon, they altered their course W. half S. lat. 21 deg. 30 min. S. Both the ships companies in perfect health, except some who had been injured by their mistresses at Otaheite.
October 1, the weather continuing fine, and the course W. by S. about two in the afternoon they came in sight of Middleburgh, a pleasant island discovered by Tasman, in 1643, bearing from them about W. by N. At six shortened sail, shifted the topsail, and hawled up to the southward to keep to the windward, lay up S. by W. wind S. E. by E. The isle at eight o'clock bore W. by S. half S Lay off and on all night.
Oct. 2, about five in the morning bore away under topsails. At six set foresails, and steered W. and W. by N. between the large isle and a small one lying about three leagues to the southward. When they had stretched two or three leagues to the eastward of this island, they could perceive land bearing about W. by N. distance about six or seven leagues. At eight in the morning got close under the land, and anchored in 45 fathom water. In less than half an hour they were surrounded with Indians, some in canoes, and some swimming, but none came alongside the ships, save one, who brought in his hand the piece of a root which they make much use as a token of peace, and presented it to the Captain, who received it respectfully, and in return made the Indian a small present. This he also received, and placing it upon the top of his head, sat down on the quarter-deck, and held it there for the space of half a minute. He seemed very desirous of making himself understood, and wanted much to enter into conversation with the Indian they had on board, but their languages were totally different.
It should seem that Tupia, being a man of learning and of a superior class to the common rank of people in his nation, and one too who had sailed among the isles, must have understood more languages than one, or it is not easy to conceive how he could have interpreted, as he is said to have done, the language of the New-Zealanders to Mr. Banks and the rest of his associates, more especially as New-Zealand lies at treble the distance from Otaheite that these islands do which we are now describing. The inhabitants of Middleburgh are large and well proportioned. Our journalist of the Resolution remarks, that both men and women wanted one of their little fingers; and Tasman who first discovered that island makes a similar remark. They also agree in their description of the manner of painting their bodies from the waist downwards, but they differ as to their hair, which our journalist says is black and frizzled; Tasman, that some wear it cropt and others long. Our journalists represent the men as bold and resolute; armed with clubs of eight or ten pounds weight, and bows and arrows, and of a fierce and dauntless disposition: Tasman, on the contrary, says, they were wholly without arms, friendly and peaceable; they agree in their description of the country, and of the plenty that abounds in it. Our journalists say that no country in the world has a more beautiful appearance, and Tasman that it is neatly laid out, and cultivated, and that it is delightfully interspersed with walks and fruit trees. The natives readily exchanged their fruits for nails and pieces of cloth, and other articles of small value; but upon enquiry there being no water to be procured, the Captain shortened his stay, and next day
October 3, weighed anchor and put to sea, directing his course S. W. to an island about five leagues distant, to which Tasman gave the name of Amsterdam. Here both ships cast anchor and moored.
During their stay great numbers of the natives came off daily with hogs, fowls, and fruits of different sorts, which our voyagers purchased for trifles.
This island is level, the lawns of a beautiful green, and the woods abounding with fruit-bearing trees, so varied in colour that nothing in nature can afford a more enchanting prospect. Here the shore is open, not surrounded with reefs of rocks as the Society Isles are, but free and bold, from 25 to 35 fathom water, and of a shelly bottom.
Here the Captains were visited by the chief men of the island; but when they went to return the compliment on shore, taking a guard of soldiers with them for the greater state, a quarrel ensued, which was not ended without blood shed. The natives, like almost all the other islanders in the southern hemisphere, are great thieves, and taking a fancy to the hats on the mens heads, it was not an easy task to prevent their snatching them away. This, however, the soldiers endeavoured to do by presenting their bayonets, but that had no effect; the Indians attempted to wrest the arms from the soldiers by force; but failing in their first attempt, the fray became general, and the soldiers were in danger of being overpowered by numbers. It therefore became necessary for the officers to interpose, who, finding no other means of preserving good order, and commanding respect, gave the word for one file to fire over the heads of the croud, and the other file to reserve their fire till it should be seen what effect the false fire would have in intimidating the assailants. At first the Indians seemed to desist, but seeing no mischief had ensued from such an uncommon report, they redoubled their attack, and were for pressing on more vigorously, when orders were given to fire in good earnest, by which two of the most forward among them were shot dead, and some others desperately wounded. This at once put an end to the dispute. The Indians fled with the utmost precipitation, and some pieces were fired after them, not to hurt any of them, but to shew them that they were not out of the reach of European arms when at a considerable distance. This prevented every kind of insult for the future. The people came afterwards and traded fairly. They brought hogs in great abundance, which the common men killed and salted, and fowls of an enormous size. They also brought bread-fruit, cocoa nuts by thousands, plantains, and a fruit our journalists called shaddocks, as large as cocoa nuts, and of the colour and smell of lemons, all which they exchanged for trifles.
Being in search of water, our voyagers had an opportunity of seeing and examining the houses and plantations of the inhabitants of the inland parts of the country, and found them infinitely preferable to any in that part of the world they had yet beheld. Their houses are far more commodious than those of the islanders near the line: they were open indeed on one side like theirs, and at one end, but all the rest were close covered. They were divided into apartments, which seemed to be proportioned to the number of the family that inhabited them; in some there were more, in others fewer. In the villages, the lanes between the houses were not wider than ten or twelve feet. Behind every house a piece of ground was allotted at least a hundred feet long: these little spots were planted with cocoa-nut trees on the outside, and with plantains, yams, sweet potatoes, and other vegetables within. Each plantation was divided from the next adjoining plantation by bamboo partitions from twelve to sixteen feet high. Adjoining to these were lawns or fields, the grass on which grows to the height of eighteen inches, and never loses its verdure. With this grass they cover the floors of their houses to a considerable height, and over it they place mats very curiously woven, on which they repose themselves in the day, and sleep in the night. They always eat in the open air, and generally the master of the house eats alone; the wife and children eat together. They wear no cloaths from the middle upwards, neither men nor women; but they have a very curious kind of cloth which they tie about their waists with a platted girdle, and which hangs in folds nearly as low as their knees, and this is all the cloathing in use from the planter to the king. The women are tall, well-shaped, and strongly made, and seem to employ themselves in the business of the family. The artificers they did not see, but many there must be, as both the islands Middleburgh and Amsterdam are amazingly populous; and they have many very ingenious implements among them that seem to require much skill and nicety in the construction.
Our voyagers made signs that they wanted water, and the people with great simplicity and good nature brought them cocoa-nuts, and shewed them how to drink the milk. It should seem that they knew no other beverage but the milk of the cocoa-nut.
The voyagers again made signs that they wanted water to fill their casks to bear away on board; they shook their heads, and gave them to understand that they knew of none nearer than two days journey up the country. It was in vain, therefore, to continue their pursuit; they, like Tasman's people, dug wells, but the water they came at was not drinkable. Thus disappointed, (if a disappointment it may be called) when they could not but know (the officers at least) that Tasman had searched the island before, and had apprized future navigators that they might spare themselves the trouble of seeking for water, for on these islands none was to be had, the party sent out on this service returned on board.
On these islands the virtue of chastity has not yet taken place. The women, though less inviting, are not less willing to gratify strangers with all they can desire. But it should seem from their remarkable populousness, that their domestic concerns are under better regulations among themselves than has yet been observed among the islanders, whom our voyagers had lately left.
Nothing can be a stronger indication of female constancy than a numerous offspring; and as these people, it is probable, have never but once before been visited by European intruders; their persons may be pure, and their morals uncorrupted, so far at least as respects their nearest connections.
As to the complexion of these islanders, it is swarthy inclining to a sooty black, their features are not disagreeable, rather small than masculine, their teeth white and even, their eyes small, and their noses rather flat than prominent; but in that, as among us, they differ considerably; the make of their faces is in general round, and their ears large and long; the beards of some appear to be shorn, which seems a mark of distinction among the chiefs, probably, the symbol of priesthood; but of that our journalists do not pretend to determine.
The articles of traffic on which they seemed to set the greatest value, were pieces of linen cloth, white paper, scarlet shreds, and painted cottons. Nails, scissars, knives, beads, and iron in all forms, bore a good price; for these they would part with whatever their country produced, natural or artificial; some of their cloth seemed to be made, like the cloth of Otaheite, of the bark of a tree, and had the appearance of paper; another kind, made of India-grass, was very strong, and looked like fine matting; but their baskets were most admired by our journalists, who think they cannot be equalled in the universe; they are made in a thousand different shapes, and all so close and compact, as to hold water as tight as a cask. Their working tools, their proas or canoes, which differ from all others in being deck'd at both ends with flat boards; their nets for catching fish, their fish-hooks, and their domestic utensils, their arms, and in short all their mechanical inventions are each so curiously made and polished, that it would require the utmost skill of an European artificer to excell them.
As these islands have never before been visited by any European vessel since their first discovery by Tasman, one hundred and thirty three years ago, and as Tasman's account of them is curious and in few hands, the reader, it is presumed, will not be displeased with a transcript of it from Mr. Dalrymple's Historical Collection of Dutch Voyages to the South Pacific ocean, where alone it is preserved with the greatest accuracy:
"These two islands, says the writer, bear N. E. and S. W. from one another, that to the southward was the highest, the northernmost being flattest almost like Holland. At noon a prauw came along side, with three tawney men of a stature something above the common; one with his hair cropt, the other two wearing it long; they had only a small covering round their waists; their prauw was narrow, but with a deck fore and aft, and their paddles of the common length, but the blades with which they paddled were broad in the middle.
"Having shewn a piece of linen to them, we tossed it overboard, at which one of them dived and remained a long time under water, but brought it up, and when he was got into the prauw, waved it several times over his head by way of rejoicing.
"Afterwards, on their prauw's coming nearer to us, we threw them a bit of wood, with two large nails tied to it, and-handed to them a small chinese looking-glass, together with a chain of chinese beads, which they took hold of by means of a long pole, and in return tied to it some of their fishing-hooks, which were made of a kind of mother of pearl.
"Some of them laid the beads, the looking glass, and the chain upon their heads, and he in the middle tied the nails about his neck.
"We handed another looking-glass to the islanders, in which they could see themselves, the first being covered with a thin sort of board which could be drawn out; this they likewise very joyfully laid on their heads.
"We also shewed to them a cocoa-nut, and a fowl, and from the vocabulary of Schouten asked the Indians about water, hogs, &c. but neither understood one another; however they pointed towards the shore, as if they would go and bring something, and accordingly paddled away.
"In the afternoon our people saw a considerable number of men running along shore with little white flags, which ours took for ensigns of peace, and answered them by hoisting a white ensign; on which came on board in a prauw four stout fellows, with their bodies painted black from the navel to the thighs, and their necks decorated with leaves hanging down from it; they brought with them a sort of garment made of rind of trees, and likewise a small white flag, which they placed in the prow of our boat. One of the prauw's wings being embellished with variety of shells and other marine productions, our people conceived it to belong to the king, or chief of the country, and presented him with a Chinese looking-glass, a knife, a bit of callico, and some nails.
"Our people, the better to please them, drank a glass of wine to them, then gave them a rummer-full, which they emptied, and carried the rummer away with them.
"Soon after came a number of prauws, some of which brought ten or twelve cocoa nuts, for which our people bartered nails; some even swam off to the ships with cocoa nuts.
"Afterwards came an aged man on board, who, amidst all the reverence paid him by the others, saluted our people, bowing down his head to his very feet; and we were not wanting to return the compliment, making him besides a present of several trinkets.
"Some, however, at going away betrayed a thievish disposition, and towards evening not less than twenty prauws came about Tasman's ship, making a great outcry of
Whor, whor, whor,
and brought on board a hog with some cocoa nuts and yams, for which we gave them a wooden dish and some copper wire, and afterwards exchanged beads and nails for some cocoa nuts, plantains, and yams.
"On its growing dark they all went away, except one who staid on board all night.
"On the 22d of January, several men and women, young and old, came on board with all kinds of provisions.
"The oldest of the women wanted the little finger of both hands, which was not the case of the younger, and our people could not come at the cause of this mutilation.
"On the same day came again on board the before-mentioned old man with some presents, which we returned with a sattin gown, a shirt, and a hat. At noon we had alongside thirty-two small prauws, and a large one with a sail and several men and women, who brought refreshments and some unknown vegetables, likewise a garment made of rind.
"To the chief of eighteen robust men and their wives, Tasman made a present of a pair of breeches and a shirt, with which, on putting them on, he fancied himself wonderfully fine.
"Among these was a very large man having a St. Thomas's arm, and a woman with something of a natural beard.
"Our trumpeter and fidler played several tunes, at which they expressed great surprise. The old man having by signs given them to understand, that they might have water for fetching, thereupon Tasman, sent his boats for that purpose.
"In each long-boat went a mate, and with them skipper Ide Tjerkzoon Holman, and merchant Gilseman in the barge. All our people were likewise well armed, though by the friendliness of the natives this precaution seemed unnecessary.
"After rowing a pretty way, our people came to the north-east side of the island, where at length they met with three little pools, out of which they were obliged to take up the water with a cocoa-nut shell; but what was still worse, it proved not worth taking up.
"On this the islanders conducted our people farther up the country, and indeed to a most pleasant place, where they seated them under a very sightly
belay
on mats of a very delicate texture, and variety of beautiful colours, treating them with two cooca nuts, one for the chief, and one for our skipper.
"In the evening our people returned on board with a hog, and an account that no water was to be had; they however made so good a day's work of it as to get forty pigs, seventy fowls, and vegetables in abundance, for a few nails, a little sail-cloth, and other trifles.
"Smoaking tobacco is not known here. The women from the waist to the knees wear a covering of matted leaves, but all the other parts of the body are naked, and their hair shorter than that of the men: the latter have a beard three or four fingers broad, with whiskers kept carefully under a quarter of an inch in length. There being likewise no appearance of weapons among these people, ours were the less apprehensive of any disturbance.
"The day following, going ashore to dig for water, we met with much better entertainment, excellent fish, milk, and fruits, and in every respect their whole behaviour was very courteous and friendly.
"Our people farther bartered with the islanders for a considerable quantity of pigs and fowls; but in the afternoon, the ground being loose, the trade-wind drove the ships out to sea, but at night got safe again into convenient anchorage."
Whilst they anchored here they also discovered two high but very small islands, not above a mile or a mile and a half in circumference, about seven or eight miles to the north-west. Also a whole cluster of little islands in almost every direction, and among others one about a degree to the southward, where they found plenty of fine water, and every other necessary for the ship's use. This island they named Rotterdam; at which our voyagers seem not to have touched.
On the 7th of October our voyagers unmoored, and in so doing the Resolution lost her stream anchor.
On the 8th they came in sight of the island of Pyllstaert, discovered likewise by Tasman, bearing to S. W. distance about nine or ten leagues, course S. S. W. and S. by W. steering for New-Zealand; at six shortened sail and killed two large sharks.
Nothing remarkable till the 15th, when in lat. 30 deg. 15 min. they saw some egg-birds, and sea-birds, certain signs of land near, which proved to be New Zealand.
On the 16th killed three albatrosses and some egg-birds. At seven in the evening shortened sail.
On the 17th continued to see sea-weeds; and saw also some small birds that never fly far from land, probably some island lying off the northermost point of New Zealand.
On the 18th, course S. S. E. fine pleasant weather, saw some white birds, sea-weed, and albatrosses. Lat. 33 deg. 47 min.
On the 19th the Resolution had outrun the Adventure considerably. The weather, which had hitherto been clear and mild, now began to alter. The bread-fruit on board being all expended, the steward began serving out biscuit as usual to the ship's company. Latitude 35 deg. 59 min.
On the 21st came in sight of New Zealand. The Adventure being a great way a-stern, shortened sail, and the Resolution joined company. At six passed Portland Island, and saw several people on the top of it. About ten the wind shifted to N. W.—Course W. S. W. At eleven the wind shifted to the N.—Course W. At twelve, course W. S. W. ran along shore all night.
On the 22d at five in the morning made sail, wind at N. W. course S. S. W. At six steered S. by W. all sails set. At ten about eleven leagues to the northward of Charlotte Sound, there came off three canoes, one of which was curiously carved from head to stern. The figure that formed the head had some resemblance of a griffin. On board of this canoe was a chief with a weapon in his hand like a serjeant's halbert, who, after some ceremonies had passed, came on board, and was saluted by the Captain of the Resolution, and the other gentlemen. The head of this Chief was curiously tatowed, and his hair was finely ormented with feathers; it was tied, as their custom is, in a knot on the top of his head; and the feathers of various colours were plaited all round in a very neat and elegant manner. Their chief pride seems to consist in ornamenting their hair. After admiring the wonderful structure of the ship, being shewn the cabin, the hold, the gun-room, and the other conveniences between decks, he next took a survey of the rigging, the masts, sails, and ropes, and the dexterous manner of handling them. On being shewn so many novelties, he could not help expressing his astonishment by a variety of gestures. At length, being desirous of departing, the Captain presented him with some cocks and hens, and gave him also a boar and a sow, and made him understand, that if he preserved them alive, they would run into the woods, and would want no attendance, but would breed, and become numerous, and go in companies.
About twelve he took his leave, and by way of expressing the pleasure he had received, began a war song, in which he was joined by his attendants, who performed all the motions and gestures by which these people challenge their enemies to fight, an account of which has already been given by Parkinson and others. The weather was now dry, the sea calm, and the wind at W. S. W.—Course to south. At three in the afternoon, the Resolution being three leagues from land, the gale freshened, and suddenly shifted to the west; the sails being set, it presently carried away the foretop-gallant-mast, and split the mizzen-topsail. All hands were called up, and employed in reefing the top-sails, taking down the mizzen, and getting another up. Lay off and on all night; but in the morning had parted from the Adventure, and never joined again till their arrival in England.
On the 23d wore ship, and stood in for land. Close reefed fore and main-topsails, and handed them. Blow'd a hurricane, attended with prodigious heavy showers; but about nine the wind blew moderate, and the rains ceased. Hoisted a new top-gallant-mast, and about eleven shook out all reefs. About six it again began to blow a storm. Wind at west. Lay to all night.
On the 24th, a stiff gale, wind W. N. W. At nine close reefed fore and main-topsails, and got the top-gallant-yard down. At eleven got sight of the Adventure at a great distance on the lee bow. At two in the afternoon shook out the third reefs of fore and main-mast-topsails; at four close reefed them, and handed the mizzen-topsail. At ten at night, little wind and a great swell.
On the 25th in the morning moderate weather, but cloudy. Wind at N.—Course West. About five all reefs out, topsails set, mizen-topsail single reefed. At six blowed hard; at seven double reefed fore and main-topsails, and close reefed mizen-topsails. Wind at W. Course S. W. At nine handed fore and main-topsails. At half past nine handed foresail and mainsail, and hove her to on her bare poles. Blowed extremely hard. Wind at W. S. W. Latitude at noon 41 deg. 12 min. Split mizen and mizen-staysail. At two in the morning the gale ceased.
The 26th moderate and hazy. Latitude at noon 42 deg. 17 min. At two in the afternoon set main-top-gallant-sail. Little wind. About eleven at night sprung up a breeze at N. W.
The 27th stiff gale at N. W. At noon Cape Palliser bore west half north, distance about two leagues. Latitude at noon 41 deg. 15 min. At one was only two miles to the northward of the entrance of Cook's Streights, (the opening to Charlotte Sound, the place to which they were bound.) No sight of the Adventure. At seven in the evening handed topsails. Blowed hard. Wind at W. N. W. At eight wore ship off shore. At twelve wore ship.
The 28th at four in the morning wore ship, and set close reefed topsails. Could just see Cape Palliser a great distance to the windward. At eight wore ship.—Wind at N. W. Course W. S. W. Saw the Adventure lying to. Latitude at noon 42 deg. 14 min. Handed the topsails and mainsail, and hove her to under foresail and mizen staysail. Split the mizen. At three in the afternoon wore ship, and set close reefed fore and main-topsails. At four set main-top-mast-staysail. Wind at N. At twelve at night wind at N. by E. Course N. W. by W. less wind, and clear weather.
The 29th shook out the second and third reefs of fore and main-topsails. Set mizen-topsail, single reefed middle-staysail and jibb. Saw several water spouts. At seven carried away the gibb-stay. At half past seven shook out one reef of fore-and-main-top-sails, and got top-gallant-yards up. At eight set fore-and-main-top-gallant-sails, and made for Cape Palliser. Lat. at noon 41 deg. 45 min. At two set main-top-gallant-stay-sail. Fine clear weather and smooth water. Adventure a great distance astern. Wind at N. At nine in the evening the wind shifted to the W. Course S. W.
The 30th at five in the morning it blowed a hurricane from the N. W. At eight Cape Cambell bore N. W. distance twelve or thirteen leagues. The snowy mountains soon after came in sight, bearing W. by N. six or seven leagues distance. At noon they were in lat. 24 deg. 14 min. S. with the wind at N. N. W. their course W. They were now driven as far to the southward of their destined port as they had before been labouring northward of it; and though they had been once within two miles of the Straits, they were now many leagues distant from it. The gale still continuing, they began to look for some harbour, to take shelter till the weather should prove more favourable; but they found the shore in general craggy, the land mountainous, and the hills already covered with snow. At three sounded about six miles from the land. Found 35 fathom water. At four set fore and main-top-sails, close reefed, and tacked ship and stood off. Wind at N. Course E. N. E. At eight blowed hard, and split the fore-top-mast-stay-sail.
The 31st no sight of the Adventure, nor of the land. Still blowing hard. At six in the morning wore ship to stand in for the land. Lat. at noon by observation 42 deg. 18 min. At seven in the evening hard gales at N. by W. handed fore-sail and main-sail, and hove her too with her head to the westward under a mizen-stay-sail. At eleven came to sail.
Nov. 1st, at four in the morning, got fore and main-top-gallant-yards up. At half after four carried away the main-top-gallant-yard in the slings. At five set studding sails fore and aft, and got up another main top-gallant-yard. Lat. at noon 41 deg. 52 min. At three in the afternoon Cape Cambell, the southerly point of land, as Cape Palliser is the northerly point, which two points form the entrance of Cook's Straits, bore S. W. distance about two leagues. At four the wind shifted to the N. N. W. At five little wind. At six a stiff breeze at N. W. Charlotte Sound was now not more than ten or eleven leagues distant.
On the 2d at five in the morning stood in to the Sound with a brisk gale at N. W. by W. to look for a safe place to anchor. Saw a small entrance or bay a little to windward. About noon stood close into land, and anchored in twelve fathom water, black sandy clay. While they lay here, several canoes came along side; some of the Indians appeared to be the same who came off from land on the 22d past, as has been already related. They brought dried fish with them, and five of them ventured on board, to whom the Captain made presents. Being very desirous of introducing a breed of hogs and poultry upon the island, among other things of less value the Captain gave them another sow and boar and some cocks and hens. He also gave them a parcel of yams, and shewed them the manner of planting them. About three in the afternoon they weighed, and steered along shore through the Straits, and about eight in the evening anchored in the mouth of Charlotte Sound.
On the 3d at five in the morning they weighed, and came to sail; and about eleven moored ship in a convenient birth to wood and water. They had hardly dropt anchor before several canoes came with fish to sell, which the crew purchased, as usual, at very easy rates.
On the 4th all hands were employed in getting the tents on shore, for the use of the different artificers who were to be employed in repairing the damage the ship had received in such a perilous navigation. It can scarce be credited by any but a sailor, that a ship could be tossed to and fro for twelve or fourteen days together in getting into a strait not less in width than the channel that divides England from France; and that, notwithstanding they were almost every day in sight of it, they should be unable to reach it with the utmost exertion of their skill in seamanship. Yet so it was with the Resolution; and much worse with the Adventure, as will soon be made appear.
[But here, if a bye-stander may be permitted to make a remark, it seems not very easy to assign a reason for Capt. Cooke's return to New-Zealand, after having already visited that country, and after having, in the height of winter, that is, about the middle of June, run as far as the 48th degree of southern latitude, and after continuing in that course, with some variation to the northward, till the 29th of June, at which time we find him in the 43d degree of southern latitude, and in the 197th degree of eastern longitude, more than 23 degrees to the eastward of Cape Palliser; in which latitude of 43, with still a little variation to the northward, he seems to have continued his course till the 15th of July, when we find him in the latitude of 42 degrees, and in the longitude of 223 deg. 23 min. E. no less than 47 degrees to the eastward of Cape Palliser; so that having now sailed in an unfrequented sea farther by many degrees to the southward than any navigator had ever before attempted, and even beyond where any of them supposed the northern coast of a continent to lie, there did not seem any absolute necessity for him to retrace what he himself had already examined; nor indeed to retrace the course which Tasman had pointed out from New-Zealand to the tropical islands which he discovered, one of which was most unquestionably the island which Commodore Byron discovered, and called by the name of King George's Island, unless his rout was settled at home before he set out, and he was confined to that rout. And indeed, what seems to render the motives of this navigation still more obscure, is, that Capt. Cooke does not seem to have made any efforts towards any new discovery in his track from Otaheite to New-Zealand, but to have contented himself with visiting the islands of Middleburg and Amsterdam, as they lay in a manner full in his way, and as they helped to recruit his stock of fresh provisions.
If the opinion of Dr. Campbell, the editor of the last edition of Harris's Collection of Voyages, may be allowed any weight in this question, the islands of Rotterdam, Middleburg, and Amsterdam, of which islands a description has just been given, are the most happily situated of any in the world, for making new discoveries, particularly the former, which is said to be a perfect paradise, abounding in every thing that voyagers can possibly want, and having plenty of fresh water, which article alone can be had at New-Zealand, wood and wild cellery excepted; the supplying of which is the only ostensible reason that can be assigned for the return of the ships to New-Zealand.
But it should seem that navigating those unfrequented seas farther than any navigator had ever before attempted, would by no means content Captain Cooke; who, in order to preclude all future conjectures concerning an imaginary continent, has carried his discoveries to the utmost verge of southern latitude, beyond which, it may be presumed, no succeeding navigator will ever attempt to extend his enquires. At his first setting out from the Cape of Good Hope, he ran as far to the southward as was practicable, as we have already related. We have traced him returning to a practicable parallel of latitude, namely, between the 48th and 50th degrees S. and in those parallels have accompanied him 175 degrees eastward. We shall hereafter observe him, after having run 180 degrees of longitude, or half the extent of the Southern Hemisphere, still running farther to the South than he had reached in his first run from the Cape; and we shall endeavour to point out the sequel of his track with as much exactness as we have traced the beginning.
That New-Zealand is one of the most proper stations that can be chosen from whence to proceed on discoveries to the southward, notwithstanding what we have before observed from Campbell, is not to be denied; for beginning the longitude from the meridian of London, and pursuing it in a parallel between 47 and 48 degrees of southern latitude, in an easterly direction, when half the southern hemisphere is nearly passed, the navigator will find himself within sight of the South Cape of New-Zealand; but as that would be an improper climate to winter in, what has he to do but to bear down to Charlotte Sound, a safe harbour, in a middle climate, where he is neither in fear of being annoyed by the intense heats of the summer, nor frozen up by the rigorous cold of the winter; and where in the winter he may prepare himself by refitting his ship, and getting provisions from the warmer climates, for pursuing his discoveries in the other half of the Southern Hemisphere early in the summer.
That this was, in part, the plan which Captain Cooke had in view, appears from his progress, but still the main objection recurs, why, (when discovery was his only object) sail so many hundred leagues in a known track as from Otaheite to New-Zealand, without deviating either to the right hand or to the left in search of what he was sent abroad to find? It may, indeed, be urged, that the spring was already so far gone before he left the Society isles, that there was but barely time enough remaining to reach the destined port, before the proper season for beginning his southernly discoveries commenced. This indeed appears to be true, but why go to the Society Isles at all? They were already sufficiently known, and there was an immense tract of unfrequented ocean to the north-westward of New-Zealand to examine, where no ship has ever yet sailed; and where no doubt there are many islands equally large, equally fruitful, and where the inhabitants are equally hospitable with those of Otaheite. In this pursuit, supposing the worst, that no such island had been found, the ships, in that case, might have directed their course to the island of Rotterdam, where Tasman found every thing so abundant, and the inhabitants so ready to supply his wants, that the fear of a disappointment could have no weight; his motive, therefore, for pursuing his discoveries in the winter of 1773, to the south-eastward, eastward, north-eastward, and afterwards to the westward to arrive at Otaheite, among the well known islands there, rather than to range the happier climates to the north-westward, westward, northward and north eastward of New-Zealand, remains to be accounted for; for we confess we can see no reason for his pursuing an easterly course for more than 45 degrees beyond the parallel of 41 degrees, in 1733, and afterwards pursuing the same easterly course for more than 90 degrees in the summer of 1774, beyond the parallel of 50 degrees; nay for the greatest part of the way beyond the parallels of 60, and 64, and some part even beyond the 70th degree.
But to return from this digression, which the distresses that both ships experienced on recovering Charlotte-Sound on the coast of New-Zealand gave occasion to, we shall leave the Resolution safely anchored in Charlotte-Sound, and take up the Adventure where the two ships parted company.
On the 22d of October being in lat. 40 deg. 15 min. and in long. 176 deg. 30 min. E. the wind blowing hard, the Adventure brought to under the foresail, main and mizen stay sails.
On the 24th they got sight of the Resolution about eleven in the forenoon three or four leagues to leeward. At two in the afternoon they wore ship, made sail, and bore down to the Resolution. Lat. 41 deg. 31 min. long. 175 deg. 28 E.
On the 25th the gale increased, with rain, and sudden squalls. About ten in the forenoon they handed the topsails and courses; and at eleven brought to under the mizen-staysail. At noon latitude 42 deg. 16 min. long. 174 deg. 58 min. E.
On the 26th fresh gales, and cloudy weather. At four in the morning wore ship, and made sail. At night lost sight of the Resolution in lat. 42 deg. 33 min. long. 174 deg. 42 min.
On the 28th hard gales, and squally. At six in the morning they again got sight of the Resolution, bearing N. W. by W. distance about seven or eight miles. At eight they saw Cape Palliser, bearing N. W. by W. distance nine or ten leagues. At half past nine they wore ship. At three in the afternoon they wore ship, and made sail. Latitude at noon 42 deg. 18 min. long. 175 deg. 10 min.
On the 29th fresh gales and squally, with thunder, lightning, and rain. This day they imagined the Resolution had got into harbour, as they never saw her afterwards. Latitude at noon 42 deg. 24 min. S. longitude 175 deg. 49 min. E.
On the 30th, the rough weather continuing, at five in the morning they wore ship. At noon brought to under the main, fore, and mizen-staysail; but at three in the afternoon, the weather being more moderate, they made sail; at five wore ship; at six they came in sight of Cape Palliser, bearing N. W. by W. distance about seven or eight leagues. At half after eight wore ship, and brought to. At ten they wore ship; but before morning they were driven out of sight of land.
On the 31st, the weather still tempestuous, at nine in the morning they set the foresail and main-topsail. At noon handed the main-topsail, wore ship, furled the courses, and brought to under the main and mizen-staysails. At three in the afternoon the weather became more moderate, they set courses and topsails, and at eleven at night wore ship.
On the 1st of November the weather became more tempestuous.
On the 2d it thundered, lightned, and rained. At five in the morning they came again in sight of land, Cape Palliser bearing W. two-thirds N. distance about nine leagues. Their water being now almost exhausted, and no prospect of making the destined harbour, every man's allowance was reduced to one quart a-day.
On the 4th the weather became moderate; and being within a few miles of the shore, the Indians came off in their canoes, and brought craw-fish in great plenty, which were soon bought up by the ship's crew.
On the 5th it blew a storm. At one in the morning they wore ship, handed the courses, and brought to. At seven Cape Palliser bore N. E. three-fourths N. distance not above five or six miles; but after many ineffectual efforts to make Cooke's Straits, their water being nearly spent, and the men worn out with fatigue, the Captain found it expedient to make for Talaga-bay, to refresh and procure a supply.
On the 9th they came a-breast of that bay, in lat. 38 deg. 22 min. S. long. 179 deg. E. and at eleven in the forenoon anchored in 12 fathom water. Though little was to be expected here from the account given by Capt. Cooke in his former voyage, yet the ship was hardly moored when great numbers of the natives came along side in their canoes, but our journalist has left us to guess whether they came to trade, or only to gratify their curiosity. It was at an island in this bay where the Endeavour's people observed the largest canoe they met with during their whole voyage, of which Mr. Parkinson has given a cut. It was, according to account, no less than sixty-eight feet and a half long, five broad, and three feet six inches high; it had a sharp bottom, consisting of three trunks of trees hollowed; of which that in the middle was the longest; the side planks were sixty-two feet long in one piece, and were ornamented with carvings not unlike fillegree work, in spirals of very curious workmanship, the extremities whereof were closed with a figure that formed the head of the vessel, in which were two monstrous eyes of mother of pearl, and a large heart-shaped tongue, and as it descended it still retained the figure of a monster, with hands and feet carved upon it very neatly, and painted red. It had also a high peaked stern, wrought in fillegree, and adorned with feathers, from the top of which depended two long streamers made of feathers, which almost reached the water." From this description one might be tempted to suppose these canoes to be the vessels, and this to be the Great Counrty lying to the south of which Quiros received intelligence at Taumaco; and where Toobia said they eat men, and had such large ships that the English ship was small in comparison. Be this as it may, our voyagers shortened their stay in this harbour, being impatient to join the Resolution in order to continue the voyage.
On the 10th of November, the boats were manned, and sent on shore for a supply of wood and water; and a guard of marines was ordered to accompany them in order to protect from insult the people employed on those services. All the remaining part of the crew were employed in stopping leaks, and repairing the rigging, which was now in a most ruinous condition.
On the 11th having got on board a small supply, the weather tolerable, and the wind fair, they hoisted in the boats, unmoored, and at noon weighed and came to sea.
On the 12th hard gales and squalley with rain. At eight in the morning they bore up, but could make no way; so were again obliged to run into Talago-bay. At noon they came too, moored, and hoisted out the boats to increase their supply of wood and water.
The 13th they were employed as before.
On the 14th the surff ran so high that the boats could not make land.
The 15th was employed in getting on board more wood and water.
And on the 16th at three in the morning they unmoored, and before six got under way and came to sea.
From this time to the 28th, nothing but tempestuous weather; in which their rigging was almost all blown to pieces; and the men quite worn down with fatigue.
On the 29th the water which they had obtained with so much labour before being nearly expended, they were again reduced to the scanty allowance of a quart per man a day.
On the 30th, by good providence, the weather becoming more moderate, they made Cooke's Straits; and at three in the afternoon cast anchor in Charlotte Sound.
The first enquiry they made was, Whether any instructions had been left for them by the Resolution; and upon examination, a letter was found, importing, that the Resolution had set sail six days before, but as to any other intimations it might contain, our journalist is altogether silent.
On the 1st of December the tents were carried on shore, the sick landed, the armourers forge put up; and in short every preparation made to refit the ship, and to recover the numerous sick. Here the Indians came on board with great familiarity, brought fish and what else they had to sell, and seemed to behave with great civility, and to traffic honestly; but this behaviour was but of short duration.
On the 13th in the night a party of them came down and robbed the astronomer's tent of every thing they could carry away. This they did so quietly, that they were not so much as heard, or suspected, till the astronomer getting up to take an observation, missed his instruments, and charged the centinel with being the robber. This brought on a pretty severe altercation, during which they spied an Indian creeping from the tent, and Mr. Bailey fired at and wounded him, but he made shift, notwithstanding, to run into the woods and escape. The report of the gun had alarmed his companions, who likewise, instead of taking to their canoe, fled into the woods, leaving their boat with most of the things that had been stolen, in it, a-ground upon the beach. This it is more than probable laid the foundation of that dreadful catastrophe which soon followed.
On the 17th while they were preparing for their departure, the large cutter, manned with seven seamen, under the command of Mr. John Roe, the first mate, accompanied by Mr. Woodhouse, midshipman, and James Tobias Swilley, the carpenter's servant, was sent up the Sound to Grass Cove, to gather greens and wild celery.
At two in the afternoon the tents were struck, every thing got on board, and the ship made ready for sailing the next day. Night coming on, and no cutter appearing, the captain and officers began to express great uneasiness, fearing some treachery from the savages. They sat up the whole night in expectation of her arrival; but to no purpose.—At day-break, the captain ordered the long-boat to be hoisted out, and double manned, with Mr. Burney, second lieutenant, Mr. Freeman, master, the corporal of the Marines, with five private men, all well armed, with plenty of ammunition, two wall-pieces, and three days provision. Thus equipped, about nine in the morning they left the ship, and rowed and sailed for East Bay, keeping close in shore, and examining every creek they passed, to find the cutter: they continued their search till two in the afternoon, when they put into a small cove to dress dinner.—While that was getting ready, a company of Indians were observed, seemingly very busy on the opposite shore, upon which they left their dinner, and rowed precipitately to the place where the savages were assembled. Upon their approach the Indians immediately fled; they followed them closely to a little town, which they found deserted, but while they were employed in searching their huts, the Indians returned, and made a shew of resistance, but some trifling presents being made their chiefs, they were very soon appeased. However, on their return to the boat the savages again followed them, and some of them threw stones. After they had dined they renewed their search, and at proper intervals kept firing their wall-pieces, as signals to the cutter, if any of her people should happen to be within hearing.
From the account which the cannibals gave of this massacre to Capt. Cooke on his third visit to this island, there was reason to believe that they had not only murdered the crew, but made prize of the ship: and they gave it as a reason for their outrage, that the strangers had been the aggressors, and that some of their countrymen had been first put to death without provocation. This, there is no doubt, alluded to the Indian shot by the astronomer's sentry, as already related.
It was the 19th of December before the Adventure could be in readiness to follow the Resolution, who, on the 25th of November set sail from Charlotte Sound; and after spending some time in a fruitless search after the Adventure, took her departure from New Zealand on the 26th, and pursued her voyage.
It was however the 22d before the Adventure got clear of land; and then the cloaths and effects of the ten men who were murdered and eaten, were sold before the mast, according to the old sea custom.
Nothing material happened till January the 1st, when strong gales and rainy weather came on, and when, by reason of the lofty seas, they were obliged to lye to. Towards night the violence of the gale abated, and the wind being at west, and their course S. S. E. they made sail, and proceeded on their voyage at a great rate.
On the 11th of January, being in latitude 58 deg. 17 min. S. and in long. 212 deg. E. they came in sight of several islands of ice. The thermometer 34 deg.
From the 12th of January till the 31st of the same month, it should seem that they proceeded nearly in the same course, steering to the eastward with half a point to the south, till on the 1st of February they found themselves in 61 deg. 20 min. S. and to the eastward of Cape Horn, which was no small pleasure to the common seamen, who having made no discovery in this long run, began to rejoice at the thoughts of soon seeing their own country, the dangers of discovery being now past. They were the more elated as thinking themselves the first who had ever passed Cape Horn in an easterly course; but in this they were mistaken.
On the 3d their allowance of provisions was augmented to the full complement, and their brandy to an allowance and a half, on account of the severity of the weather, which, though the summer was but just past its prime in that hemisphere, was yet so severe that it froze daily, with snow and sleet.
On the 26th of February they passed the meridian of London in lat. 54 deg. 24 min. S. and in surrounding the globe to the eastward, having gained a day, they altered their style, calling this the 27th. From this time to the 25th of March the weather proved rough and stormy; but the wind favouring, they continued their course to the Cape of Good Hope, and on the 17th came in sight of Table-bay, bearing east about ten or twelve leagues.
On the 19th of March they cast anchor at the Cape; and on the 13th of July about seven in the morning they came in sight of Plymouth, from whence they had taken their departure just two years before; and on the 15th anchored safe at Spithead.
Thus having traced the track of the Adventure, from her first setting out till her return, the reader will no doubt be impatient till we resume the thread of our narrative with respect to the Resolution, which we left safely moored in Charlotte Sound.
It was on Wednesday the 3d of November that the Resolution cast anchor in her former birth, being convenient for taking on board both wood and water. After the usual business of landing tents, casks, &c. &c. was over, and the crew had time to make enquiries, they were told that some strange Indians had been there, and had eaten all the goats, hogs, and poultry, that the Captain had put on shore alive at his last visit to breed; and that they did not believe a single one was to be met with in the whole island.
On the 5th the copper oven was put on shore for the bakers to bake bread for the ship's use; the brewers were as fully employed in brewing beer for the same purpose; but notwithstanding the utmost vigilance of the watch, the Indians found means to steal and carry away several of the brewing utensils, which however were again recovered.
On the 6th a great many of them came alongside the ship, and brought several of their weapons and curiosities to sell; but were very loth to dispose of their battle-axes, on which they seem to set the greatest value. Fish too they brought in abundance. As soon as they had made their market they returned to shore, and hauling their canoes up among the bushes, made a fire, and, as was supposed, dressed what they had to eat.
While the bakers and brewers were employed on shore, the steward was no less busy in examining the biscuit casks on board, many of which proved damp, and the bread in them unserviceable; that which was good was separated from the bad, and packed again in fresh casks; what was soft, but eatable, was sent ashore to be rebaked; and that which was utterly unfit for the mens use, was preserved to feed the hogs and fowls. Thus care was taken that nothing might be wasted; and that every thing should be applied to its proper use.
In this survey of the ship's stores, the powder was found to be damp; it was necessary therefore that it should be carried ashore, and dried. The rats had been busy in the sailroom, and had eaten their way through and through the canvas. This was a grievous misfortune to the sail-makers, who had already employment more than sufficient to repair the rents torn by the weather. While in harbour here no portion of time was allowed for indulgence; even Sunday was employed in re-baking, packing, and stowing the bread, as this was judged a work of necessity, and therefore allowable in the strictest sense. But while the crew was thus kept to labour, the greatest attention was paid to their health: they had every day plenty of celery, scurvy-grass, and other wholesome plants to boil with their pease, in which likewise a quantity of portable soup was always an ingredient.
After continuing here about three weeks, and no tidings of the Adventure, and all things being in forwardness to proceed to sea, the men had leave by turns to divert themselves on shore; but here the inducements were wanting that made them so fond of land at the Society Isles. The women, though not ugly, are yet chaste; and it was as much as life was worth for a sailor to attempt the least rudeness to any of their wives, or even to their daughters, without permission. Few of the common men therefore chose to wander among the woods and deserts where nothing was to be hoped, but much to be apprehended from the treachery of the natives, who, friendly as they may appear to be when awed by fear, are not to be trusted when under no restraint.
A party of officers having one day made an excursion to take a view of the country, and to mark the manners and way of living of the natives among themselves, called at a little cove, a few miles from the shore where a company of them generally lived, and found them feasting on a man whom they had not long before killed, as was apparent from the freshness of the flesh. They seemed not at all disconcerted at the approach of the strangers, but very civilly invited them by signs to sit down and eat; and, as the greatest dainty, they brought them the man's head from the lower jaw upwards ready dressed, which, as well may be supposed, they refused. They then presented the haselet of the man just warmed, and making signs expressive of the savouriness of the meat, pressed them to eat, and seemingly with some resentment that they did not. The gentlemen, however, though they declined eating, made signs that they were not unwilling to pay for the head, provided it would be no affront to them to carry it away; to this they readily consented, and the gentlemen brought the head on board, with which they afterwards treated an Indian-chief, who eat it greedily in presence of the whole ships crew; an incontestable proof of their eating human flesh, if any had been wanting to confirm the truth of so inhuman a practice.
It may be worth remarking, as we do not remember to have seen the same thing noticed by former voyagers, that all the teeth were missing in the head purchased by the officers, and that they seem to set a great value upon the teeth, by wearing them either as trophies or ornaments in their ears.
Being curious to know the reason of putting the man to death, on whom they were found feasting, they gave the gentlemen to understand, that they had lately been at war with the North-Island Indians; that they had made twenty of their enemies prisoners, whom they kept alive in places of security; and that they put them to death occasionally as they wanted to make a feast.
For a description of their weapons of war, as they have already been delineated in the voyages to the Southern Hemisphere, by English navigators, we refer the reader to that entertaining work. It may, however, be proper just to mention that some of their pikes or javelins are 36 feet long, and that they throw these to a great distance with incredible force; and that the weapon they use for close fight being about three feet long, shaped not unlike our bats, but with a broad back and sharp edge, is so weighty as to cleave a man's skull at one blow.
In the evening of the day the officers visited the country, they heard from the ship a grievous yelling, which closed with the most terrifying shrieks that any man on board ever heard. Something of the same kind had been heard by former navigators; and as these noises came at the close of the day from the dark recesses of the woods, there is reason to suppose, that the victims of their revenge, or their depraved appetite, are then sacrificed to their prevailing passion.
Our voyagers had now been in harbour from the 3d of November to the 24th without knowing the fate of the Adventure. It was the prevailing opinion among the seamen that she must either have been wrecked or so much damaged as not to be able to proceed upon her voyage; but the Captain was of another opinion; he caused a letter to be written, and inclosed in a bottle, directing his associate what course to steer, and to hasten his departure as soon as his ship should be in a condition to proceed, and he caused the place where the bottle was concealed to be engraven upon a tree, which was not likely to be observed by the natives, but could not escape the notice of the ships company, when they came to examine the adjacent coast.
On the 24th, the Captain having previously landed some live animals on an unfrequented part of the country, where they were not likely to be discovered by the Indians, with a view to their multiplying for a supply to future navigators, gave orders for all his people to come on board; to unmoor, and to prepare to sail; and here it may not be improper to observe, that a complaint having been made by a native against one of the sailors, and that complaint, upon examination, being found just, he caused the man to be punished in the sight of the Indian, and to receive twelve severe lashes.
On the 25th they weighed and came to sail, but the wind fetting full into the strait, it was night before they cleared the channel.
Next day they spent in looking for the Adventure, firing guns every half hour as they proceeded with an easy sail along shore, and narrowly viewing every inlet, in order to discover the remains of the wreck, if any disaster of that kind had happened to her, and to give relief to the distressed crew, if any remained alive; but the guns not being answered, nor any appearance of a wreck to be seen, and only a smoke to be observed, which upon examination was found to proceed from a fire kindled by the natives; the wind proving fair, the weather fine, and a brisk breeze springing up in the evening, they took leave of the island and proceeded on their voyage with a full sail.
On the 27th a stiff gale from N. N. W. carried away the main top-mast-stay-yard, which was soon restored, and they jovially continued their course to the S. S. E. being in high spirits and full allowance. Lat. at noon 43 deg. 28 min. S.
As a voyage in an unfrequented sea, where no new object presented themselves to vary the scene, can afford but little entertainment to the generality of readers, we shall just preserve so much of the nautical manoevres as minutely to mark the track which the Resolution pursed, that the intelligent reader may be enabled to judge what foundation there still remains, for supposing a southern continent to exist, though yet undiscovered.
It is indeed to be regretted that our journalist has rather been deficient in noting the longitude from day to day, in like manner as he has done the latitude, but that defect may be in a great measure supplied by comparing the course with the latitude, and supposing a medium for the ship's casting in any given time, deducible from the time, and the space between the periods, where the longitude is accurately recorded. This much being here thought necessary to premise we shall now proceed.
On the 28th the weather continuing fine, and the wind dying away, they made but little progress. Some of the people on the watch saw the trunk of a tree floating by the ship, and saw likewise two large seals. As these were signs of land, they concluded that some islands adjoining to the easternmost: extremity of New-Zealand could not be far off.
29. Little wind and fair weather. The latitude at noon 44 deg. 29 min. S. At two o'clock in the afternoon, a fresh breeze sprung up at W. S. W. which shifted to the S. W. and caused a great head sea.
30. The gale continued. At noon lat. 45 deg. 50 min. The wind at West, and the course as before. Saw two Port Egmont hens.
Dec. 1, 1773. This day a stiff gale at W. by S. Course S. S. E. Saw a seal, two penguins, and a great deal of sea weed; certain indications of land at no great distance. Lat. 47 deg. 5 min. S.
2. The weather foggy, with small rain. Wind S. S. W. Course S. E. by S. Lat. at noon, 48 deg. 23 min. S. About four the wind shipped to W. N. W. Here they altered their course and steered South. Sea weeds, and flocks of birds still in sight.
3. Wind N. W. by N. Course South. Lat. at noon 48 deg. 56 min. S. Signs of land still continue.
4. No observation, the weather misty. Wind at S. E. Course S. S. W. probably to examine if any land lay to the westward, from the strong signs observed for several days before.
5. The weather cleared up. Breeze S. E. Course S. S. W. Lat. at noon, 50 deg. 14 min. Fine dry weather. Wind shifted E. S. E. Course S. Saw one seal, and several albatrosses, and heard the cry of penguins at no great distance, but saw no land. The ships company still in health, except some who were not yet cured of the Otaheite maladies.
6. Fine clear weather but cold; and being in lat. 51 deg. 30 min. and long. 180 E. just under London Bridge, as our journalist observes, they tapped their last cask of beer, and drank health to the King and Royal Family, and to all their good friends in England. In the midst of their merriment, a piece of wood, seemingly wrought and shaped like a trunnel, passed the ship, which not a little surprised them.
7. At four o'clock in the morning the wind at North. Course S. S. E. Came in sight of ice; and the weather being piercing cold, though in the very height of summer, served some GROG to the ship's company. Lat. at noon, 53 deg. 8 min. S. In this day's run passed a surprisingly large seal asleep upon the water, and saw sea weed; but no land.
8. It blowed hard, with rain. Piercing cold. Saw several albatrosses, and two penguins. Wind W. N. W. Course S. S. E. Lat. at noon, 55 deg. 44 min. Shipped several heavy seas. Split the fore-top-sail, and bent another. At twelve at night hove too with the ships head to the westward.
9. At four in the morning bore away with a strong gale at N. W. Course S. S. E. This day, by the Doctor's order, served pickled cabbage to the ship's company. Lat. at noon 57 deg. 27 min. Blowed a storm. At half after seven in the evening hove the ship too. At twelve made sail, and steered E. S. E. Wind S. by W.
10. Thick weather, attended with wind, snow, and hail. Excessive cold and raw. Lat. at noon, by calculation, 59 deg. 10 min. A heavy sea ran from S. S. W. Course S. S. E. Little or no night.
11. Hard gales with small rain; and sometimes squalls with hail. Lat. at noon 60 deg. 47 min. Wind at W. S. W. Course as before.
12. A stiff gale. About two in the morning came in sight of a large body of ice; at half after four sailed close by it. Lat. at noon 62 deg. 17 min. Wind N. W. Course E. S. E.
13. A great fall of snow, and a strong gale from N. by W. Lat. at noon 63 deg. 30 min. At four in the afternoon hauled up to E. N. E. Wind at N.
14. A fresh gale at N. W. Course E. S. E. Saw a monstrous large island of ice a-head. Lat. at noon 65 deg. 6½ min. Eight or ten islands of ice in sight, and bitter cold.
15. About two in the morning passed the large island of ice, computed to be three miles in circumference, and 60 feet above the level of the sea. At five the ice came so thick about the ship that she was unable to proceed either to the southward or eastward; they were therefore obliged to tack ship, in order to get clear. Here the ice islands presented a most romantic prospect of ruined castles, churches, arches, steeples, wrecks of ships, and a thousand wild and grotesque forms of monsters, dragons, and all the hideous shapes that the most fertile imagination can possibly conceive. About these islands the penguins are heard continually screaming, and add to the horror of the scene, which cannot be beheld by the most intrepid without some emotions of fear. Lat. at noon 66 deg. 4 min. A stiff gale, attended with hail and snow.
16. The weather having cleared up, and the sea become calm, they sent the boats out to bring in ice, as had been practised before in the same latitude, in order to lengthen out their stock of water; for though they were in possession of Dr. Irvin's Apparatus for making salt water fresh at sea, and though they made frequent use of it, distilling sometimes forty gallons a day, yet this natural distillation (if it may be so called) from the clouds, was so much preferable, that the first was only made use of to supply the animals on board, while the other was preferred by the chiefest officers. While this service was performing, the ship lay to; but a sudden swell coming on before the boats were half loaded, they were glad to get a-board with their lives; but not without considerable damage to the boats. This day they saw a large whale at a distance; but the breeze freshening they soon lost sight of her.
17. The wind varying N. by W. and N. N. W. they made sail and steered N. E. by E. in order to clear the ice. But the wind dying away and the sea appearing calm, they hoisted out the pinnace as well as the boats; and renewed the labour of watering the ship with ice with double ardour. It had been found very grievous to those who had been obliged to plunge their hands in the sea to lift up the loose ice; and therefore the Captain furnished the people who manned the boats with pick-axes, sledge hammers, and double-headed hatchets, to cleave it and break it from the solid bodies that floated on the waves. This, though the labour was hard, was much more tolerable than lifting the pieces out of the water; and was perfomed with more chearfulness, especially as every man was encouraged with a dram when he went out, and rewarded with another when he returned.
During the morning this labour was continued without intermission; but in the afternoon a fall of snow came on, the like of which we can form no idea of in this part of the world. Our journalist's words are,
"that the flakes of snow were larger than goose's feathers, and fell so thick that from the quarter-deck we could not see our boltsprit."
For a while it ceased; but then again it fell by handfulls, and filled the ships decks so suddenly that double the men on board with all their efforts could not have cleared them as fast as it fell. The rigging too was so enlarged with ice and snow that the running-tackle was rendered altogether useless till the storm abated. Their latitude at noon was 64 deg. 30 min. and the pinnace and boats being fortunately hoisted on board before the fall came on, they continued their course E. N. E. with the wind at N. by W.
18. This day our journalist notes the longitude for the second time since the ship's departure from New Zealand, and rates it at 207 degrees East. The latitude the same as the day before nearly. Here he particularly enlarges upon the hardships the poor sailors suffer in searching for land where nothing is to be leen but sea and ice, where iceicles frequently hang to the noses of the men more than an inch long; where the frost is sometimes so severe as to freeze the very breath upon their cloaths; where he has seen the men cased in frozen snow as if clad in armour; where the running rigging has been so enlarged by frozen sleet as hardly to be grasped by the largest hand; and where he has seen the windward side of the ship so glaced with ice as hardly to be distinguished from the little islets that surrounded her; yet under all these hardships, the men chearful over their GROG, and not a man sick but of old scars.—This day the fog being so thick as not to be penetrated by the eye, they were alarmed by a crash as if a thousand houses had been all tumbling about their ears together, and presently they discovered a small island of ice just under their leebow. All hands were instantly called up, and by good providence they weathered the ice, and escaped the danger, which was so imminent, that in less than a quarter of an hour the ship must have been overwhelmed, and every soul on board perished.
19. The watch were now constantly employed in beating off the ice, and clearing the rigging. The pieces that fell upon deck, some of them larger than brickbats, when the main business was over, were carefully gathered up, and converted into water. Latitude at noon 64 deg. 31 min. long. 209 deg. 12 min. E. At three the wind shifted to N. N. W. Course altered E. by N. At six clear. Course altered S. by E.
20. Hawled up to the East. Six islands of ice in sight. Clear weather. Latitude at noon 65 deg. 52 min. At three in the afternoon a stiff gale at N. E. Course E. S. E. At ten crossed the antarctic circle. Sun the whole day.
21. Thick fog. Narrowly escaped a large island of ice, having just room to veer and not a yard to spare; and, when they wore, another island and field of ice to leeward. Hauled up the main-sail, wore ship, and stood to the N. N. W. Latitude at noon 66 deg. 52 min. Tacked, and stood to the eastward. Saw several albatrosses.
22. Intolerably cold. Brandy served to the ship's company every day. The poor Indian quivers at the sight of snow and ice—is taken great care of, and kept warm in the Captain's cabin—enjoys his health—but much frightened. Latitude at noon 67 deg. 27½ min. Wind N. N. W. Course E. by S.
23 & 24. The weather being fine, they seem to have lain-to to take in ice for melting, as no latitude is this day mentioned.
25. Being Christmas-day they spent in jollity. Latitude at noon 66 deg. 14 min.
26. Two men were this day put in irons for being drunk, and threatening the second lieutenant. When sober, expressing their sorrow, they were released. Same day all hands drunk; made no way, but counted 132 islands of ice in sight.
[During these idle days, if by making little or no way they may be so called, they got upwards of 30 tons of ice on board. Here we could have wished that our journalist had marked the latitude, as it should seem from this day they began to change their course, and to steer north-westerly.]
27. The men being recovered from their frantic jollity, and order and good discipline restored, they hoisted their boats on board, and made sail to the northward. The islands of ice increasing in number, and the loose ice beginning to be troublesome, they could make little or no way to the southward, which seems to have determined the Captain to change his course.
28. The weather altered, and from fine clear frost, became tempestuous, with snow and hail. Latitude at noon 64 deg. 22 min. The people began to feel the effects either of their debauch, or the severity of the cold, or perhaps of both; for now they first began to complain of cramp pains, cold, rheumatism, and other grievous disorders. This day they saw several albatrosses, and two antarctic birds.
29. Nothing material.
30. Fine weather and smooth water, the Captain ordered the hammocks up, the ship to be thoroughly cleansed and smoaked between decks, the sick to be properly attended, and all possible relief afforded them that their situation would admit; and by nourishing diet and gentle exercise they recovered surprisingly. Latitude at noon 60 deg. 11 min. Wind from W. S. W. to W. N. W. Course N. W.
31. A pleasant breeze at West. Steered N. N. W. Latitude at noon by observation 59 deg. 39 min. Saw several albatrosses, and a few small white birds called ice-birds.
Jan. 1, 1774. Fine light breeze from the eastward. Course N. W. Latitude at noon by observation 59 deg. 11 min. This day a quarrel happened between two of the midshipmen that had like to have proved fatal to both. One of them having drank too much, was very abusive, and provoked the other to strike him; on which the former drew his knife, which the latter catched at with his hand, by which he saved his life, but cut himself severely. They were then parted, and the aggressor put in irons; but, when in irons, behaved so turbulently, that it was found necessary to double iron him, to confine his hands behind his back, and to place a centinel over him.
2. Fine pleasant weather. The Captain ordered the articles of war to be read, the whole ship's company and the prisoner being present. A court martial was then held, and the prisoner was found guilty of transgressing the articles, and sentenced to receive twelve lashes, which sentence was carried into execution. Latitude at noon 57 deg. 57 min. A pleasant breeze from S. S. E. Course W. N. W.
3. At one in the morning calm. About four catched a large albatross with hook and line. It measured from tip to tip when his wings were stretched out twenty-two feet. At five fresh gales at South. Course N. N. W. Latitude at noon 56 deg. 46 min. Saw some sea-weeds, and two divers; hoped land was near. At eight in the afternoon wind changed W. N. W. Steered North the whole night.
4. Blowed very hard in the morning. Saw more sea-weed, one diver, and several albatrosses. Changed their course to the North-East, in full expectation of discovering land. Latitude at noon 54 deg. 55 min. The weather now became sensibly warmer, it being here the middle of summer. This day used the last cask of ice-water, and began upon the water from the main hold.
5. Moderate weather in the morning; but soon changed, and blew a storm. Having no sight of land in this direction, tacked, and steered again N. by W. Latitude at noon 53 deg. 43 min. Blowed excessive hard the following night.
6. The gale continued, with squalls and rain. Shipt several heavy seas. Wind at S. W. Course N. by W. The ship by straining had become leaky; the pumps were therefore set to work, and six inches of water pumped out of the hold, lat. at noon 52 deg. 1 min. The wind abated in the afternoon, and pleasant weather succeeded.
7. Pleasant weather, the former course continued. Lat. at noon, 50 deg. 35 min.
8. This course still continued. This day experimental beef was served to the ship's company; but our journalist neither tells us how it was prepared, nor how it proved; pickled cabbage, by way of preservative against the scurvy, seems to have been regularly served on beef days; and it is certain that no ship ever went round the world so little affected with that disorder. Lat. at noon by observation 49 deg. 7 min. course E. N. E.
9. The wind and weather variable, course as before, lat. at noon, by observation 48 deg. 17 min. long. 233 E. varied the course, and steered E. by N. One man this day put in irons for misbehaviour, and a centinel put over him.
10. Clear weather, course in the morning as before, a light breeze from the westward; the gentlemen diverted themselves in the cutter by killing sea fowl, lat. at noon by observation 48 deg. 8 min. The gentlemen returned on board to dinner, having killed 14 sea birds, not unlike gulls, only that their bills were hooked.
11. In the morning the weather squally with showers, wind W. half N. course E. by N. Lat. at noon 47 deg. 51½ min. Here it may be noted, that having near'd their former course the preceding year, they again altered it, and steered to the S. E. wind at N. N. W. a steady gale all night.
12. Fresh gale, course still to the S. E. lat. at noon 49 deg. 32 min. varied the course to S. S. E. Here they were in high expectation of finding land.
13. A stiff gale from N. by W. course as before, lat. at noon 52 deg. 11 min. In the afternoon tack'd and stood to the north-west; but at eight in the evening steered to the southwest, blowed very hard all night from N. N. W.
14. Still continued to blow a storm, lat. at noon 53 deg. 53 min. long. 257 deg. 13 min. E. changed their course to S. S. W. still in hopes of finding land, saw birds, and sea weed, which in this voyage were found no certain signs of land, though generally esteemed so by the most experienced navigators.
15. Moderate, but thick misty weather, course in the morning as before, lat. at noon, by calculation, 56 deg. 11 min. Directed their course in the afternoon from S. S. W. to E. About three a storm came on from the north, which increased so violently before seven, that before eight they furl'd the fore top-sail, main-top-foresail, and main-sail, and hove too under the mizen-stay-sail, with her head to the N. E. Blowed hard all night, two men sick.
16. At half past seven made sail to the S.S.E. wind at W. N. W. Lat. at noon by observation, 56 deg. 20 min. Varied their course S. by E. Stiff gale from N. W. by W. all night.
17. Clear weather, but squally, wind at W. a steady gale, course S. S. E. lat. at noon 58 deg. 34 min. S. Saw some porpoises that seldom shew themselves far from land; and also some sea-weed, wind W. N. W.
18. The wind continued as before, course from eleven last night, till three this morning S. by E. at which time they altered their course and stood full south. Lat. at noon by account 60 deg. 54 min. About the middle of the day the wind shifted to the S. W. At eight in the evening wore-ship.
19. At three in the morning a breeze sprung up from the N. N. W. course S. S. E. saw a whale. At four the wind shifted to the north, course full south, lat. at noon, 61 deg. 32 min. saw one seal, and several birds. At eight in the evening saw a great quantity of sea-weed, course S. S. E.
20. At three came in sight of an island of ice, and at six saw several birds. Lat. at noon, 62 deg. 34 min. calm but excessive cold. At half past seven, blowed hard, double-reefed the main top-sail, and handed the fore-top-sail, wind S. S. E. Ships head east. At eleven wore-ship, and stood to the S. W.
21. The wind as before, piercing cold. About four in the morning tack'd and stood eastward, lat. at noon, by observation 62 deg. 29 min. course in the afternoon E. and E. by N.
22. Dry clear weather, wind at S. S. E. course as before. Lat. at noon 61 deg. 59. min. One marine sick.
23. Misty weather in the morning with showers, wind S. course E. S. E. the people all hearty, except as before excepted, one marine. Lat. 62 deg. 34. min. Ships head S. E. a stiff gale all night at S. W. ships head S. S. E.
24. The gale continued till near six in the morning; at which time they changed their course to the south. Lat. at noon, 63 deg. 32 min. piercing cold.
25. The wind at north attended with light snow, saw six albatrosses, some ice-birds, and three Pintada birds, called by the Dutch Cape Doves. Lat. at noon by observation, 65 deg. 26 min. long. 248 E.
Here they saw no ice, though in the same latitude in the former trip to the southward they were surrounded by it. Possibly the latter end of January, which answers to our July, may be the proper season for visiting those frigid regions.
The Indian begins to be impatient to see England. He is still indulged in the captain's cabin; is learning to write; but gets little or no English.
26. At nine in the morning every body on deck imagined they saw land; and accordingly preparations were made for getting all things in readiness to cast anchor. At eleven crossed the antarctic circle to the southward for the 2d time, and hauled up S. E. by E. where they were persuaded land was. But to their great disappointment, the farther they sailed, the farther the land seemed to bear from them; and at length it wholly vanished. Lat. at noon 66 deg. 35 min. Sounded, but found no bottom.
27. Misty weather, but moderate. At seven in the morning it cleared up, and they altered their course to the S. E. still in hope of land. Wind N. N. E. Lat. at noon, by observation, 67 deg. 58 min. Passed one large island of ice, and several islets of various forms. Saw several whales, some Pintada birds, and two strange birds, such as they had never seen before, and thought to be land-birds, with a great flock of sea swallows, which the sailors call Mother Carey's Chickens, and dread their appearance as an omen of tempestuous weather. These, our journalist says, were more beautiful than any they had ever seen before, their glossy feathers of black, red, and white, being so happily intermixed as to produce a colouring that exceeds all description.
28. The weather continuing moderate, and the sea open, they still pursued their course to the S. S. E. though at the utmost peril of their lives, from the large bodies of ice that were continually floating round them. Their latitude was this day at noon 69 deg. 33 min. South; in the afternoon they veered a little to the East. At one in the morning they saw the sun and moon exactly at the same height, viz. ten degrees above the horizon, and both appeared equally illuminated, owing perhaps to the haziness of the atmosphere. Here they went to work again in digging and loading ice to melt into water; but here they were more unfortunate than in their former attempts, having the pinnace stove against the island on which the men were at work; and it was with difficulty that her crew recovered the ship.
29. The islands of ice began to multiply, and the loose ice to incorporate; but the weather continued moderate, and generally clear. Lat. at noon, by observation, 69 deg. 58½ min. Wind at N. E. and so cold that it was thought it could not be colder. At half past ten at night tacked and stood N. N. W.
30. Came in sight of a fog bank, which had a great appearance of land, and many who were thought the best judges asserted that it was land; however it proved upon trial a deception, as well as the former. This day they passed by a great island of ice, and heard many dreadful cracks, as if the whole earth was cleaving asunder. Saw several whales and a strange bird as before. Taking a view from the mast-head nothing was to be seen but a dreary prospect of ice and sea. Of the former might be seen a whole country as far as the eye could carry one, diversified with hills and dales, and fields and imaginary plantations, that had all the appearance of cultivation; yet was nothing more than the sports of chance in the formation of those immense bodies of congregated ice. This second attempt at discovery of land in this dreary region being attended with no better success than the first, the captain thought it adviseable to give over the pursuit for the present, and once more to direct the ship's course to the northward.—Lat. this day at noon 71 deg. 10 min. long. 252 deg. 2 min. E. The last hog which the captain had on board being killed some days before, this day the butcher killed the lieutenant's hog, and dressed it for the spit.
31. This morning a very large whale was seen floating on the surface of the sea. The wind blowing briskly at E. and E. N. E. and the ship's head N. and N. N. E. at noon they fell into lat. 69 deg. 54 min. very cold, and the weather beginning to alter. In the evening the snow, which just began to fall lightly about noon, came down heavily, and gave full employment to the watch to beat it off as it froze upon the rigging. This was grievous work; but as it in a great measure precluded the necessity of digging and filling ice from the islands to melt, it was submitted to chearfully, especially as the same encouragement and the same reward were bestowed for the one as well as for the other. Wind variable from E. to E. N. E. intolerably cold. Ship's head as before.
Feb. 1. The weather clearing up, the boats were again sent out to icing, as the term now was; and before night, they brought on board five boat's load. At noon lat. 68 deg. 2 min. At seven in the evening they made sail to the northward. Wind from E. to E. N. E.
All the morning employed in icing, saw two whales and several sea fowl, lat. at noon, 67 deg. 8 min. Ships head N. by W. This day roasted the lieutenant's dog for the gun-room.
3. Colder than ever they had yet felt it, the wind variable from E. to E. S. E. At six in the morning crossed the antartic circle to the northward. At noon lat. 66 deg. 03 min. 2700 leagues east of China, says our journalist.
4. A light breeze from the eastward, saw several grey petterals, and two albatrosses. The weather being dry and clear, brought up and aired the hammocks, cleansed and smoaked between decks. Lat. at noon by observation, 65 deg. 15 min. long. 261 deg. east. Course N. N. W. and N. W. all night.
5. Clear dry weather. Ship's head N. by W. Saw a flock of birds, and one Port Egmont hen. Lat. at noon by calculation 64 deg. 4 min. A great fall of snow. Stood to the N. N. W. all night.
6. Calm weather with snow and hail. Lat. at noon by observation 63 deg. 34 min. Saw one albatross, and several grey petterals; but no other appearances of land. Course N. by W. Wind S. W. Blowed a hurricane; the sea rose a tremendous height; and often boarded them from the larboard cathead clear off.
7. The storm continued, and carried away the fore top-mast-stay-sail sheet, and the fore and main-top-sails. About eleven in the forenoon the storm abated. Lat. by observation 61 deg. 5½. Wind at S. W. by W. Course N. N. W. In this storm, the service bearing hard upon the mariners, the captain, to ease them as much as possible, very humanely ordered the officers mates before the mast.
8. A stiff gale; yet the men were employed in repairing the damage sustained in the preceding day's storm. Wind at S. W. by S. Course N. W. by N. Lat. at noon 58 deg. 8 min. A stiff breeze all night from W. S. W.
9. Squally, with showers of rain. Wind at W. S. W. Course N. W. by W. Lat. at noon by calculation 55 deg. 42 min. Saw a great number of birds; moderate weather all night.
10. At three in the morning they steered N. W. Wind S. S. W. and pursued that course the whole day. Lat. at noon 53 deg. 39 min. Saw flocks of albatrosses, which seem to be the chief inhabitants of the watry regions of the southern hemisphere.
11. It blowed a tempest at W. by N. and W. N W. Ship's head from N. half E. to N. N. E. Saw several porpoises, with other indications of land. Lat. at noon by account 51 deg. 47 min. At half past two in the afternoon stowed the main top-mast-sail, the ship lying with her lee-gunnel under water. At half past three righted. Secured the best bower anchor, and pumped ship. A great swell all night from N. N. W.
12. At one in the morning the storm abated. All hands employed in repairing the injury sustained by the storm. As the day advanced the weather cleared up; and while the seamen were busy in their several departments, the gentlemen diverted themselves in shooting albatrosses. Such is the sudden transition from foul to fair; and such the unconcern, when one storm is over, about what may happen when another arises. Lat. at noon by observation 50 deg. 14 min. In the evening the gentlemen returned aboard, having shot 11 albatrosses and one Port Egmont hen.
13. Pleasant weather and clear. A light breeze from the N. W. At six in the morning observed a piece of timber to pass by the ship. All the forenoon employed in airing the hammocks, cleansing and smoaking the ship. This day the steward's mate served out four cabbage, by which it is supposed pickled cabbage is meant. Latitude at noon 50 deg. 14 min. About eight in the evening, tacked and stood to the North. Wind N. N. W.
14. Nothing remarkable. Lat. at noon 49 deg. 34 min. Ship's head N. W. Wind W. S. W.
15. Calm weather. Wind N. N. E. Course N. W. Lat. at noon 48 deg. 30 min. Course as before.
16. Thick foggy weather attended with small rain. Wind at W. S. W. Course as before. Lat. at noon 47 deg. 45 min. In the afternoon dry pleasant weather. At night a great swell from the N. N. W. This day saw several birds and some small streaked porpoises.
17. Fine all the forenoon; aired the hammocks, cleaned between decks, and smoaked the ship. All well on board. Lat. at noon 46 deg. 16 min. Fresh gales and squalley, attended with rain in the night. Ship's course N. N. W. Wind West.
18. Strong gale at S. S. W. Course N. W. Lat. at noon 44 deg. 12 min. Shipped many heavy seas, two of which went over their lower yards. The weather at night more moderate, but dark and cloudy.
19. The storm subsided, the air cleared up, and a pleasant gale succeeded; aired the hammocks, cleaned between decks, and smoaked the ship. Lat. at noon 42 deg. 5½ min. Long. from Cape Palliser 95 deg. 32 min. E. and distant from it 1168 leagues [if our journalist has made no mistake.] Wind W. to W. N. W. Ship's head from N. to N. N. W.
20. Pleasant dry warm weather; a light breeze at W. N. W. Course from N. to N. by E. They were now in a temperate climate, and, as the ship's company rightly supposed, were directing their course in pursuit of that country which Juan Fernandes is said to have discovered, and which by very many able navigators has been
supposed,
and by some
affirmed,
to be part of the Terra Incognita Australis. Of this opinion is Arias, a Spanish writer, who says,
"that a pilot named Juan Fernandes sailing from the coast of Chili, about the latitude of 40 deg. S. little more or less, and sailing in courses between West and South-West, was brought in a month's time to a coast, from what he could judge, of the continent, very fertile and agreeable, inhabited by white people mighty well disposed, of our stature, and so peaceable and civil, that by all ways they could express, they offered them every thing in their power, and of the riches of their country, which appeared very rich and plentiful. Being overjoyed to have discovered the coast of that great continent so much desired, he returned home, intending to return properly equipt; but was prevented by death."
Arias adds, that the pilot Juan Fernandes saw here the mouths of very large rivers, and concludes this certainly to be the coast of the southern continent. Other voyagers pretended likewise to have discovered land in or near the latitude which the Resolution is now examining. M. Pingre, a French writer, reports,
"that the Captain of a Spanish brigantine going from Calloa to the island of Chiloe in 1714, being in the latitude of 38 deg. S. about 550 leagues off Chili, discovered a high country which he coasted a whole day; that he judged it inhabited from the fires which were seen in the night; and that the contrary winds obliging them to put into Conception, he there found the ship Le François, of St. Malo, commanded by M. du Fresne."
Add to these what is said of the Orange, one of the Nassau fleet, that in her passage from Cape Horne to the island of Juan Fernandes she saw this continent twice; once in 50 deg. S. and again in the latitude of 41 deg. S. Le Maire and Schouten are likewise said to have seen signs of land near this situation.—All these testimonies, with others that might be produced, had so strengthened the notion of the existence of a southern continent at no great distance, that Mr. Dalrymple has roundly asserted the discovery of it. Capt. Cooke therefore appears to have been determined either to confirm, or totally disprove the notion. This the intelligent reader will be at no loss to discover by his conduct; and this being premised, we shall proceed.—We have already traced him from latitude 71 deg. 10 min. S. and from longitude 261 deg. E. answering to 109 W. within half a degree of the longitude in which Mr. Dalrymple has placed Easter-Island, to his present situation this day at noon in latitude 42 deg. 5 min. S. and long. 270 deg. 17 min. E. answering to 99 deg. 43 min. W. and we shall mark him daily as he proceeds.
This day [Feb. 20.] our journalist remarks for the first time, that syrup of carrots (called marmalet) and wort was dealt out by the surgeon's order to such of the men as discovered the least scorbutic symptoms in their habit; and he notes also, that this day the crew were all in perfect health. We have already remarked that Mr. M'Bride had prescribed wort as a preservative against the scurvy, and it redounds greatly to the honour of the Commanders who pay attention to such important informations.
21. The weather continuing fine, the Captain neglected no opportunity of ordering the hammocks, &c. to be aired; and he was no less careful of the mens apparel, never suffering any to appear dirty before him; insomuch that when other Commanders came on board, they could not help declaring, they thought
every day
Sunday on board of Capt. Cooke. Lat. at noon 37 deg. 54 min. Course N. N. W. Saw sea-fowl, and porpoises in great abundance.
22. Three men punished for abusing and striking one of the marines; one who was the most culpable with twelve lashes; the other two with six each. Latitude at noon 36 deg. 10 min. Wind at E. Course S. W. by W. This day Juan Fernandes's Continent was judged by the sailors to lie in that direction. Birds and porpoises still in sight.
23. The weather continuing clear, warm, and moderate, the powder-room was cleansed; and the powder being found damp, was brought upon the deck and aired. The store-rooms were likewise examined, and, where necessary, smoaked and dried. Latitude 36 deg. 40 min. Wind N. E. Course as before. This day the Captain was taken ill, to the grief of all the ship's company.
24. The weather continuing fine, the carpenters were employed upon the pinnace, in order to repair the damage she received in icing; the gunners in examining and recharging the fireworks, which by the damp had been rendered unfit for use. Latitude at noon 37 deg. 25 min. Wind N. W. Course S. W. by W. all sails set.
25. This day the weather altered. Wind at N. by W. Squally, with rain. Course W. by S. Latitude at noon 37 deg. 53 min. In the afternoon the weather cleared up; the wind veered to the W. About two they tacked ship, and stood to the N. N. W.
26. The Captain still indisposed, and much lamented. The weather variable; but generally fine. Wind S. W. by W. Ship's head N. N. W. Latitude at noon 36 deg. 40 min.
27. Wind at East. Course N. N. W. Lat. at noon 34 deg. 52 min. In the afternoon steered North.
28. Pleasant weather, wind at E. N. E. Ships head N. W. Saw two birds; the captain this day much better, which each might read in the countenance of the other from the highest officer to the meanest boy on board the ship. Lat. at noon 33 deg. 9 min. wind shifted to W. N. W.
March 1. Delightful weather and smooth water, a light breeze from W. N. W. Course N. Lat. at noon 32 deg. 15 min. saw several albicores, and two egg birds.
2. A light breeze from W. N. W. Ships head as before. Lat. at noon 31 deg. 13 min. Course altered to the N. E. Saw here a great number of porpoises rolling upon the water, and in the night a ravenous shark found means to regale himself on a fine piece of pork that was towing in a net at the ship's stern to freshen it for the use of the great cabin.
3. A light breeze from N. by W. Ship's head N. E. by E. Saw two bonnettas, a man of war bird, and several egg-birds. Lat. at noon 30 deg. 30 min. S. It was now judged by the ship's company that they were in search of Easter-Island, discovered by Roggewein.
4. A fine light breeze from N. W. by W. At four in the morning tack'd ship, and stood to the N. E. by N. The captain perfectly recovered from his illness to the great joy of the ship's company. Lat. at noon by observation, 29 deg. 57 min. Wind at N. W. half W. steered half E. and E. Several bonnettas in sight.
5. The weather dry and the wind calm, they aired the hammocks, and scraped the decks above and below. Saw several albicores at a great depth under water. These fish are never to be caught in fine weather, but when the sea is agitated; they then rise and play upon the surface, and may be caught with hook and line, or struck with the gigg. Lat. 29 deg. 44 min. course altered.
6. Some gentle showers of rain, wind E.N.E. Ship's course half N. This day they came in sight of some tropic birds. Lat. at noon 29 deg. 35 min. Observed an uncommonly large piece of spunge to pass the ship, supposed to drift from the land; saw also some fish playing about the ship, with other signs of land near.
7. A pleasant breeze from the eastward, continued to see fish, but none that they could catch; hooked several bonnettas, and caught four: The climate most delightful, mild, warm, and nourishing; not a man ill, but all in high spirits. Lat. at noon 28 deg. 20 min. Course N. W.
8. Course altered W. N. W. Saw five tropic birds, some man of war birds, and egg-birds, and two gannettas, an almost certain sign that land is near, saw also some sea-weed. Lat. at noon 27 deg. 4 min. Course altered W. half S. Wind at E.
9. Wind at E. Course W. half S. Saw numbers of bonettas, albicores, and flying fish, also tropic birds, and man of war birds: These last are great enemies to the flying fish, and it is really diverting to see with what velocity they will dart down upon them when driven from the water by the Dolphins, albicores, and bonetta's, all enemies to the flying fish, which, notwithstanding are so numerous as to change the colour of the sea in some places by their swarms. Lat. at noon 27 deg. 7 min. S. and long. 105½ min. W. or according to our common way of reckoning 254 deg. 10 min E.
10. A fresh breeze at E. half N. Course W. half S. All hands employed in preparing to land, being positive that land cannot be far off, so many signs concurring to confirm our opinion, and, besides, being near the place where the geographers have placed Easter-Island. Lat. at noon 27 deg. 11 min. This afternoon saw more than 100 birds in a flock.
11. Bore away all sails spread. At six in the morning they descried land, bearing W. half S. Distance seven or eight leagues.
12. A dead calm. At six they were about eleven or twelve miles from shore, the land bearing N. N. W. The calm continuing lay off and on all night.
13. Wind off shore, sounded and found ground at 91 fathom red and white firm corally sand. Lat. 27 deg. 6½ min. At four hoisted the cutter out, and sent her on shore to look for good anchorage. At five she returned with news, that at the distance of five miles from the island there was safe anchoring. On board the boat came one of the natives, a man of a middling stature, curiously tataowed from head to foot. His language was different from that of any of the islanders they had yet visited, so that he was no otherwise understood by the Indian, nor by any other man on board, except by signs. The island had no very promising appearance on their approach towards it, they could see indeed at the distance of six or seven miles up the country a number of houses, but no cocoa-nut or other large trees, no beautiful plantations, such as they saw on the islands of Middleburg, and Amsterdam, but a low level green within land, defended from the sea by craggs and rocks near the shore. The wind still proving contrary, they cast anchor where directed.
14. The Captain ordered the pinnace to be hoisted out, and the great and small cutters to be manned; and he, attended by his chief officers, and accompanied by Mr. Foster, went on shore about six in the morning, and returned on board again about nine. The wind coming fair they weighed, and stood in close to land, and again came to an anchor about two miles from land in 40 fathom water. Several of the natives came on board, the greatest part of whom swam from the shore, and a few came in wretched canoes, old and rotten, and so small that three people could barely sit in them: they were indeed of a pretty construction, but the materials were the worst they had ever seen made use of; nor was it easy to conceive how, or where they procured the materials, as no trees were to be seen on the island even by those who were sent to survey it. Canoes, indeed, seemed less necessary, as hardly any fish was to be seen upon the coast; from whence it is imagined, that the natives live wholly upon fowls and vegetables, no four-footed animal being mentioned in any of the relations.
The people on board made signs that they wanted provisions, and shewed them several articles; such as nails, beads, looking-glasses, knives, scissars, and the like, which they made signs they would give in exchange: they also shewed them some linen, and Otaheite-cloth. They preferred the linen, because it was white; and indeed any thing of that colour seemed to please them best. The chief articles they brought to sell were fowls, sweet potatoes, a few plantains, and some bananas; but fruit as well as other provisions were in no great plenty among them. The Chiefs on their first coming on board, brought five or six fowls ready barbicued as presents to the Captain, who in return loaded them with trifles of small value, with which they were exceedingly pleased. The men were of the middle stature, strong, and apparently healthy: they were naked above and below the middle, and had only a kind of broad net-work girdle to surround the waist. The women were covered with a garment from head to foot, and were besides, painted with a variety of colours, such as orange, red, yellow, and white. They approach the nearest to the New Zealanders in habit and appearance of any people they had yet seen. Those who came on board had no arms; but the party that was sent out to reconnoitre the country, found arms amongst them that were very different in every respect from the arms of the islanders in the tropical regions. They remarked likewise a peculiarity that was very singular: under their hair, which was in general short and bushy, they thought they perceived something uncommon about their ears; and, upon examination, they found them of an astonishing length, but so nicely wrapt up, by means of the gristles being taken out, that they appeared rather like small flatted chitterlings than ears; yet when they came to be unfolded, our journalist says he measured one of them full five inches and a half long. Their houses, or rather huts, were very mean, and covered all over, except a small hole to creep in at, which served them for door, window, and chimney. They were the greatest thieves they met with in their whole voyage; and it was found necessary to shoot one thief to preserve the lives of many others. Indeed the people were ready enough to shoot them, a common sailor no more regarding the life of one of those poor creatures who had filched from him a nail, than a countryman would regard the life of a fox that was robbing his hen-roost.—When the Resolution arrived at this island she was principally in want of water; but of water the island was in want too. They dug a well, but that afforded only a brackish bad-tasted supply, such as they met with at the islands of Middleburgh and Amsterdam; nor when they had ranged the island through could they meet with any better; yet the natives did not seem to regret the want of
authentic, and in many particulars the three accounts agree and serve to confirm each other.
Don Felipe Gonzalez arrived on the 16th of November 1770, in the frigate La Rosalia at this island, of which he gives the following description: "That it is situated in the latitude of 27 deg. 6 min. South, and in longitude 268 deg. 19 min. East from Teneriff, answering to 108 deg. 8 min. West from London, nearly in the same latitude and longitude in which our navigators found it. Whether they had ever seen this Spanish account is uncertain, as it could not have been known in Europe before the beginning of the year 1772, and they sailed in July 1772: but be that as it may, the Spanish description of its situation and size is remarkably correspondent with that of our journalist. Its size, says Gonzalez, is about 12 or 14 leagues in circumference, and it is rather low than high. The inhabitants of both sexes are about 3000 in number. They are a people of a docile disposition, but great thieves. The men have thick beards, are tall, and well made, white and red. They keep the fire under ground, and appear to have some superstition in taking it out. This was observed when any of our people wanted to light their tobacco.
They have no other arms but sticks and stones, and have much dread of artillery. They are very proud of every thing red, and slight every other colour; except white. The men go naked, all but a broad girdle curiously wrought, which they tie about their waists in a very decent manner. These girdles are wove like netting, of a material that looks like cotton, of which they make very beautiful cover-lids.
Their houses are under ground, with a very narrow entrance; and there are besides some huts made of reeds in the like form.
The soil is very rocky, and we saw no trees but a few figs, cotton, and shrubs. Their food is white pumpkins, plantains, sweet-potatoes, yams, and other roots of the like kind. There are many springs of
good water,
and some of bad. We saw no birds, but some fowls like those of Europe; and when the natives want to dress them, they put hot stones into their bellies till they are fit to be eaten. On the sea coast there are not many fish; there are only some anchovies and small fish.
They have many statues of a monstrous size: they are of one piece of stone, and of a gigantic figure; for they are some of them more than 20 cubits high, and others not a fourth part so high, near which are their burying places.
The island has no port, only a little cove for a long-boat, or small vessel. The greatest length is about six leagues. It lies East and West; and it was at the West end that we raised three crosses upon three similar little hills, testifying by these marks that we took possession of it in the name of the King; and, in honour of his Majesty, we named it St. Carlos.
There is no good anchoring place all round the island, the bottom being excessively bad, as we had two cables cut in less than forty-eight hours. We only remained five days on shore; at the expiration of which we went in quest of other lands, said to be situated in the latitude of 38 deg. S. but could find none.
This island, the Spanish voyager adds, is 600 leagues from Callao, and nearly the same distance from the main land of Chili. He calls it
David's Island,
taking it for
Davis's Land,
as marked in the maps; and,
probably,
it is the same, as no other land has ever been discovered by any other navigator near the meridian where Davis's Land has obtained a place.
Having thus briefly related what peculiarities Don Gonzalez observed in his five days stay, we shall in the same concise manner run over Roggewein's account, and then resume the thread of our narrative.
On the Dutch ships [of which there were three] approaching the land, an Indian came on board the Admiral, who was of a brown complexion, pretty tall, strong, and of a brisk, gay, lively countenance. He was naked, and his body painted in various figures: his ears were extremely long, and hung down to his shoulders. They gave him cloth to cover himself; and they gave him meat to eat, and offered him wine to drink; but he threw it in his eyes. The musicians played him a concert; the sailors danced to the music, and he danced with them. They clothed him, and sent him ashore; but they afterwards shot him, as they say, by accident.—They brought fowls, and plenty of roots; and the Indian who first came on board presented the Admiral with fowls ready dressed, in their manner. There was one among them quite
white,
[such a one as was seen at Otaheite] and they judged by the solemnity of his air that he was a priest.
Next day they landed 150 men, at the head of whom was the Admiral. The people flocked about them by thousands; some running to and fro like frantics, and others prostrating themselves before their idols in the attitude of prayer.
As some of them pressed close, and ventured to touch the arms of the strangers, they fired upon them, and the friendly Indian was among those who fell. Their cries and lamentations were dreadful; and they besought the murderers by every attitude of humility to suffer them to carry off their dead. Affected with all these demonstrations of humility, these christian plunderers vouchafed to do them no harm. Being made to understand that their fury was abated, and that they were disposed to friendship, the poor creatures brought them fowls and fruits, and whatever their island afforded, in the greatest abundance. They saw no animals on the island, but birds of various kinds. Their huts were from forty to sixty feet in length, and about six or eight in breadth, supported by poles, and covered with leaves. Each family had a house, and each house had an inclosure separated from every other enclosure, and formed by a line. The country appeared to be all cultivated, and when Roggewein was there the fruits of the earth, on which alone the natives appeared to subsist, were all in maturity.
Their women were cloathed with coverlids, and painted with a rouge surpassing the brightness of any thing of the kind known in Europe. They were not in the least coy, but would by their gestures invite to familiarities, to which the common men were not averse. The men of the island had no arms, at least they made use of none: When they were attacked they fled to their idols, of which there are many up and down the coast. They represent the figure of a man with great ears, the head adorned with a crown, and the whole executed and proportioned according to the rules of art; around these idols are circles built of white stones, and they observed that the idols were more frequently visited by some than by others; and they observed likewise that those who attended them most had marks of distinction, by which they concluded they were priests. These marks were large bobs hanging at their ears, a bonnet made of black and white feathers, and their heads shaven quite bare.
Bougainville has remarked that the priest in the Straits, when he went to work upon the Indian boy that had poisoned himself by swallowing some fragments of shining-glass, put on a Mercury's cap made of feathers, in order to drive away the evil spirit that he thought had possest him.
See Voyages of English Navigators round the World.
It must not, however, be forgotten, that the idols of this island are not in this voyage said to be of such a monstrous height as the Spanish writer has ascribed to them. The height of three men is the utmost proportion given to the largest of them; the ordinary deities are said not to exceed the height of one. Our journalist says that some of these idols are carved in the form of mens heads, one over another.
On the 16th of March our voyagers weighed anchor, and came to sail. Wind at N. E. and ship's head north.
17. The same course continued till half past seven in the morning, when they steered with all sails up to the N. W. Lat. at noon 26 deg. 48 min. The fresh provisions taken in at Easter-Island were now dealt out by the captain's order, and at the captain's expence, equally among the men, namely, two pound of potatoes a man, and a bunch of bananas to each mess; and this without reducing their ordinary allowance, an act of generosity which produced its effect; it preserved the crew in health, and encouraged them to undergo chearfully the hardships that must unavoidably happen in the course of so long a voyage.
18. This day the captain was taken ill again. The sail-makers were now all busily employed in making hoses to catch fresh water when it rained, as none was to be expected in the course they were pursuing, for many hundred leagues. Lat. at noon by observation, 26 deg. 4 min. Wind at E. S. E. Course shaped N. N. W.
19. Saw four tropic birds. Wind at E. and E. N. E. Course N. by W. Lat. at noon 24 deg. 50 min. One man punished this day with twelve lashes for an unclean action.
20. Course altered from N. by W. to N. N. W. Aired the hammocks, and cleaned and smoaked the ship, which service was never omitted, when the weather and time would permit. The weather variable, squally with rain.
21. Pleasant weather, with light showers of rain. Lat. at noon by observation 21 deg. 03 min. Wind E. N. E. Course as before.
22. Weather altered, squally with rain. Wind E. and E. N. E. Course N. by W. and N. N. W. Lat. at noon 19 deg. 20 min. Course altered from N. N. W. to N. W. Saw several tropic birds.
23. The carpenters employed in paying the boats bottoms with an experimental composition for preserving the timber against the worms. Lat. at noon by observation 18 deg. 10 min. Wind at E. by S. Course S. W.
24. Pleasant weather, attended with light showers of rain. Wind variable from E. by S. to E. by N. Course W. N. W. Lat. at noon 17 deg. 06 min. Saw several tropic birds.
25. Delightful weather. Wind E. Course as before. Lat. at noon by observation 16 deg. 02 min. The captain much better.
26. A fresh gale form E. S. E. Course N. W. Lat. at noon by observation 14 deg. 46 min.
27. A pleasant breeze from E. S. E. Course as before. Lat. at noon by observation 13 deg. 11 min. Wind variable all night from E. S. E. to E. by N.
28. A fresh breeze from E. S. E. Saw several flying fish, one man of war bird, and one egg-bird. Lat. at noon 11 deg. 44 min. Course continued.
29. A fine gale from the N. E. Course continued. Lat. at noon by observation 10 deg. 20 min. and long. 122 deg. W. Altered their course W. N. W. Saw a man of war bird and one gannet, a sure sign of land near.
30. Pleasant weather. Saw a great number of flying fish, and one man of war bird. Lat. by observation 9 deg. 22 min. Shaped their course due West. Wind at E. half S.
31. Continued their course with wind at E. by N. Lat. at noon 9 deg. 18 min. Altered their course to W. half S. Wind at E. by S.
April 1. Saw great numbers of flying fish. Lat. at noon 9 deg. 32 min. Wind at E. Course W. half S.
2. Course continued. Breeze at E. Lat. at noon 9 deg. 29 min.
3. Saw several tropic birds and flying fish. Wind at E. Course W. half S. Lat. at noon 9 deg. 33 min. Saw two sharks, four pilot fish, and two dolphins.
4. Course and wind as before. Very hot. Aired hammocks and cleaned ship every day. Lat. as before 9 deg. 33 min. long. 224 deg. E. or 136 deg. W. At three saw a shark and three albacores. At six saw a sun fish.
5. Course continued. Wind E. by S. Lat. at noon 9 deg. 34 min. Altered their course W. At half past six in the evening shortened sail, and hove too. Ship's head N. E. and N. N. E.
6. Saw several birds and very large flying fish. Lat. at noon 9 deg. 19 min. Course altered W. half S. At five in the afternoon they saw land bearing from them S. W. by S. It appeared like two hummocks or little hills and a large opening between them. Shortened sail, and hauled up to the S. E.
7. Saw the land bearing W. S. W. At five bore away W. At six steered W. S. W. Perceived several islands, which proved to be the isles known by the name of the Marquesas, discovered by Mendana in 1595. Our journalist says they are of a great height, and in general their extent may be from five to twelve leagues; Quiros says from six to fifteen; Mr. Dalrymple places them between the lat. of 9 and 10 deg. S. and between the 140th and 141st deg. of West longitude; our journalist between the 9th and 10th deg. of South latitude, but the longitude uncertain; yet it should seem from his noting the longitude on the 4th of April, and allowing a degree and a half a-day for the ship's westing, that their situation cannot be much mistaken.
At half past four in the morning the ship brought to, and cast anchor in 30 fathom water; fine white sand. Several canoes came from the shore alongside the ship; but none of the natives would venture on board. They brought as a present to the Captain some bread-fruit, and a hog; and were very ready to exchange whatever they had about them for any trifles that were offered them. We know of no voyagers that have visited these islands before since their first discovery: their wonder was therefore the greater, as hardly any tradition could remain of the former European visitors, after so many years had elapsed since the Spaniards had made them feel the fatal effects of fire-arms. It is not easy to determine whether they were pleased or terrified at the approach of the ship, nor whether they intended to receive their visitors hospitably, or were concerting means to get them in their power to cut them off. Those, however, who came alongside made a strange noise as they rowed ashore, and that noise continued the whole succeeding night, during which they kept fires burning on the tops of the hills, probably by way of beacons to alarm the country of some approaching danger, or uncommon event.
8. The Indians, whatever their private intentions might be, continued to carry a fair appearance. Early in the morning they brought bread-fruit, which they exchanged for nails, bits of broken china-ware, white paper, or, in short, for any thing that was shewn them. About six great numbers of them presented themselves on the shore, and seemed to express much rejoicing, by shouting, dancing, leaping, and running; and in a very short time after, five or six of them came close to the ship's side; and signs were made to them to come on board, which they either did not, or would not understand; but one of them presently unshipped the side iron stantion, and dived with it into the sea. All possible means were used to persuade him to bring it back, but in vain; and, when at some distance, he rose and got into a canoe. They were determined he should not avail himself of the robbery, left by suffering him to escape, others might be encouraged to attempt the like exploits: orders were therefore given to fire while he was yet within reach, and it fortunately happened that he was shot dead, without any of his companions being hurt. There happened to be two men in the canoe; one of whom, on seeing what had happened, threw the stauntion overborad, and then threw himself after it: the other kept baleing the blood and water out of the canoe, while the pinnace which had been launched for carrying the Captain and his company on shore came alongside, to take a view of the man that was killed. The death of this man seemed to strike the whole body of the Indians with fear and consternation. Those who were at sea made rapidly for land; and those who were dancing on the shore fled precipitately to the hills at a distance, where they howled, and made many frantic motions for more than an hour: and in the mean time some of the most daring among them attempted to cut the ropes, and carry off the ship's buoy; which being observed, one of the great guns loaded with grapeshot was fired amongst them, which soon put an end to their enterprize. Being now, to all appearance, convinced of their own inability to resist, they quietly acquiesced in furnishing whatever was demanded of them. They brought hogs, but sparingly, as having perhaps no great stock upon the island; but of such fruit as the island produced, they brought abundance. The Captain and the other gentlemen went ashore in the pinnace, and landed without opposition. But, previously to their embarkation, there came a canoe to the ship in which was a messenger, who held in his hand a green bough with a white flag fastened to it, which he presented to the Captain, with six small hogs. These the Captain received, placing the bough with the flag at the gang-way of the ship, at the same time displaying another white flag so conspicuously at the mast head, that the inhabitants might see it at a great distance from the hills on the land. Peace being in this manner concluded, all farther hostilities ceased on both sides. The gentlemen were permitted to range the island without interruption. The waterers found water in great plenty, and very good; insomuch, that what remained of the water taken in at Easter Island was all bilged, and thrown into the sea. The island which the Captain made choice of to cast anchor, appears to be the same to which the Spaniards gave the name of Dominica. Our journalist describes it as lying E. by. N. and W. by S. and Quiros as lying N. E. and S. W. a difference not very considerable where exactness was not much regarded on either side.
The inhabitants, particularly the men, for very few of the women made their appearance, were rather of the largest size: they were strong, active, and well shaped; and were in general more elegantly painted than any they had yet met with, even more so than the New-Zealanders, having their very lips tattowed; and the figures on their faces and breasts so curiously traced and delineated, that no painter in Europe could have sketch'd the outline of a bird, fish, or animal, with more nicety, or with greater exactness. It was somewhat remarkable, that among them there were many with the loss of their left eye.
When the pinnace returned the Captain brought with him six hogs, a considerable quantity of bread-fruit, and some plantains. They saw no cocoa-nut trees growing upon the island; but cocoa-nut trees there certainly were, as the inhabitants brought some to sell as soon as the course of trade was placed in a regular channel. The men were in general naked, except a thin covering round the waist. The women were covered from head to foot with a sort of white cloth, not unlike the Otaheite cloth in fabric, but not so fine. Few of them appeared; and those who did appear were far from being handsome. Quiros, however, has given a very different account. He says, that very fine women were seen there, but acknowledges he did not see any of them himself, which seems to confirm what our journalist has observed, that few of them appear: but persons of rank who did see them assured Quiros, that they were as beautiful as those of Lima; and there are (says he) very beautiful women at Lime. Their countenances were pleasant, they had delicate hands, genteel body and waist, exceeding much in perfection the most beautiful ladies of Lima; they were sufficiently white, but not so rosy; they were clad from the waist downwards with a sort of tunicks, artfully woven of the finest palm. The only arms our journalist saw among these islanders, were javelins, which they threw with great dexterity and force, and slings, with which they fling stones to an incredible distance; their musical instruments are drums and conchs.
9. On some affront offered by the sailors to their women, word was brought that the natives were all retired to the mountains, taking their women and children along with them. This caused great uneasiness, as all trade was now at an end, and nothing to be procured but water. Some persons, however, were deputed to make up the breach, who carried presents with them of such things as it was thought would be most acceptable. The gentlemen, who were appointed to execute this commission, so effectually brought about a reconciliation, that they returned loaded with fruit. It was, however, thought adviseable to be always upon the watch. In consequence whereof a party of marines was placed as a guard to protect the waterers from insult, while they were employed in filling water. This was a principal business, to which the greatest attention was every day paid.
The captain and gentlemen who accompanied him, having sufficiently reconnoitred the country adjoining to the bay where the ship rode at anchor, embraced the opportunity, while the crew were all busy, to visit a bay at some distance to the southward, in order to learn what that part of the country would produce, and to endeavour to extend the trade for hogs, cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit. This excursion was attended with very good effects; they found the natives very amicably disposed, and very ready to bring to market whatever the country produced. Here the captain purchased eighteen hogs, a large quantity of bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and plantains, and returned again about seven in the evening. In this bay, where the natives were not alarmed by the brutality of the common men, the women were not afraid to be seen; nor was the least distrust perceivable on either side. The natives brought down their hogs and fruit to the shore, and the person appointed to be purveyor shewed the articles he had to exchange, and the natives were lest at full liberty to chuse, each what he liked best; the purveyor fixed the value. The articles they seemed most to admire were picture cards, pieces of Chinese paper, and kind of China ware, or any thing made of glass, nails, and bits of red cloth. For trifles of this kind they readily exchanged their hogs and fruit. The news of this honest dealing having spread over the island, and reached the adjoining isles, the ship was next day surrounded with more than fifty canoes, loaded with provisions of various kinds, among which was a fruit which seemed peculiar to these Islands: It is thus described by Thevenot,—it is about the size of an ordinary melon, and is not unlike some generae of that fruit in shape; it grows upon trees, and when growing is of a deep green, but when ripe is of a fine delicate polished green, though the outside appears rough and jagged, with cross rays not unlike the pine apple. The figure is not quite round, but somewhat narrower at the point than at the stalk, from whence grows a core that reaches to the middle, and within this core is a web; it has no stone or kernel, nor any thing useless except the outside, and that is very thin; the rest is all eatable, and makes but one mass, which is very delicious, nourishing, and wholesome. The people who brought this fruit were very civil and courteous; they had their hair dressed in a singular manner, being parted and tied up in two knots behind not unlike the wigs formerly worn by gentlemen of distinction, and now only by counsellors at the bar. Their beards too were shorn in a peculiar manner, and tied underneath their chins. This manner of tying the hair did not however appear to be intended as a mark to distinguish one class of people from another, but was only a variety or fashion which every one might or might not follow as he pleased. But there was one thing particular, and which seemed to be universal among the males; and that was, the prepuce was tied back in such a manner as to answer all the purposes of circumcision, without being circumcised. Among the tropical islanders, with whose manners and customs our late discoverers have made us acquainted, the free indulgence of the women is a leading character; but in these islands the reverse of that character seems to be the fact. In the Society and all the neighbouring isles, the women make not the least scruple of exposeing themselves in the most lascivious manner to the view of the European strangers; but here they held indelicacy in the utmost abhorrence; and it should seem that a frolicksome attempt of a sailor had driven the women and children of a whole district out of the reach of such another insult; yet where they were in no danger of affronts of the like kind, they were in no fear of shewing themselves. Thus we may remark the different dispositions of mankind dispersed all over the world, influenced it seems by no climate, but directed at first by some superintending power, and afterwards conducted by the ruling passions, and confirmed by habit.
Our journalist saw none of their houses but from the ship; they appeared to be small and contemptible little huts, covered with platted leaves, and supported by the trunks of trees. Indeed the inhabitants so near the line require no large or pompous buildings to defend them from the weather. Shade and coolness, and a slender covering from the dews and little rain that falls in that delightful climate, are all that nature requires; and where splendour is not the object, there will be no emulation. The only ambition discoverable among these people was in dressing their hair, and ornamenting their heads; several of them had caps very curiously wrought in shapes not inelegant, and composed of feathers of various colours interspersed with spangles of mother of pearl, that looked very gay and were very becoming. The most conspicuous mark of distinction appeared to be tattowing. In this the difference was very discernable. The chiefs were tattowed from their faces to their fingers ends, not in volutes or spiral lines like the chiefs in New Zealand; but in figures of various kinds, suited to the different parts of the body, according to the artist's fancy, in which no small ingenuity was displayed. Perhaps the different qualities of those chiefs might have been discovered by observing the characters represented; but time was wanting for such nice observations.
Quiros, the Spanish voyager, who gave the first account of these people, says, they are white and of a gentle disposition, large and stout limbed, and so well shaped as greatly to surpass the Spaniards; that they had beautiful teeth, eyes, and features, and among them were some of the handsomest boys with flowing hair he had ever beheld; that all of them were naked; that their bodies, legs, and arms, were painted; and that some had their faces painted; that most of the Spaniards appeared of low stature compared to the men; and that among them was one taller and stouter than any person in the Spanish fleet; that being encouraged to come on board, about forty of them entered the Admiral's ship at once, and became so troublesome that his Excellency was obliged to give orders to fire upon them, by which five or six of them were shot dead; that on this unexpected salute they fled to shore, threatening vengeance by brandishing their lances; that they soon returned, and began an attack by throwing stones from slings at an incredible distance; but their chief being shot through the head by a bullet, and seven or eight of his followers being likewise killed, and many more wounded, the rest thought fit to make a precipitate retreat, and presently after retired to the mountains with their women and children; that then the Admiral with his lady and family landed; that he ordered mass to be said by his chaplain on shore, at which some antient Indians who still remained in their houses attended, and behaved with decency, kneeling when the Spaniards kneeled, and bowing when they bowed; that after some time, while the Spaniards were employed to take in wood and water, the natives came down in straggling parties, and shewed a desire of being reconciled, bringing with them presents of fruit, and some fowls: these were kindly received, and by degrees a friendly intercourse was established, which continued during the whole time the Admiral with his retinue remained on shore; but he was scarce settled on board when the old quarrel was revived. The Spaniards were again attacked with lances and stones, and the natives were again driven to the woods and the mountains.
Their houses, Quiros observes, are built upon posts, and the floors are a story higher than the streets, and many people appeared to live in the same house. At a distance from the town which we visited, says he, there stood a temple surrounded with pallisades, with the entrance to the West, and a house almost in the middle with the door to the North, in which were some figures of wood, ill wrought; and there were offerings of eatables, among which was a hog; of this the soldiers made prize, and were about to carry off other things, but were prevented by the natives, who were highly enraged at the violence which had been done to their holy offerings. He observes, that in the mornings and evenings all with one voice made a sonorous and harmonious chanting, and at length shewed an inclination to do mischief, probably for the violence offered to their place of worship. One, however, who appeared to be more civilized than the rest, seemed to take a great liking to the chaplain on board, who was not less fond of the Indian than the Indian was of him, and took great pleasure in asking him questions about the most obvious objects in view; particularly by what names they called the heavens, earth, sun, moon, stars, and the like. To which he gave answers which left no room to doubt that he perfectly understood the questions that were asked him.
Being invited on board, the first thing that attracted his notice was the cattle and other animals that he saw upon deck; at which he seemed to express his surprize, especially at the cows and sheep. He also was very curious in viewing the construction of the ship, her masts, her rigging, her ornaments, and the many conveniences with which she was furnished; and he noted every thing that was shewn him with more than Indian attention. The chaplain offered him sweetmeats and wine, but he would taste of neither; but seeing the ships weighing anchor, he pressed to be set ashore; and when he was landed rejoiced exceedingly. Such is the only account we had of these islanders before Capt. Cooke touched upon their coast, who having supplied the ship with wood and water, and with what other necessaries the island produced; and having surveyed the bays, while Mr. Foster and his associates were taking a view of the land, on the 11th he gave orders for getting all things in readiness to sail; and about four the same afternoon they weighed anchor and came to sea, tacking every hour to clear the straits between the islands, they being situated in respect to each other nearly in a square, which made the navigation both difficult and dangerous.
April 12. The morning pleasant, a mild breeze attended with gentle showers, and the sea open. About ten the ship spread all her canvas, and proceeded at a moderate rate, directing her course to the S. S. W. with the wind at E. S. E.
13. The weather continuing pleasant, with now and then gentle showers, and some lightening, great attention was paid to airing the ship, and keeping all things clean. At this time not a man was sick on board. Latitude at noon by observation 10 deg. 57½ min. Wind at E. by S. Course as before. At night hove to with the ship's head to the South East.
14. At five in the morning bore away as before. Lat. at noon by observation 12 deg. 24 min. Wind at E. Course altered to S. W. At eight in the evening hove to, ship's head to the S. S. E.
15. A smart dry gale at E. S. E. At five in the morning bore away as before; ship's way 7½ knots. The Indian very healthy, and quite easy and contented, as if at his own home, but learns English very slowly. Lat. at noon by observation 13 deg. 40 min. Fresh breezes and fair weather. At eight in the evening hove to, with the ship's head to the S. E. all night.
16. A fresh breeze at East. At half past five bore away W. half S. At seven saw three dolphins and two birds. Lat. at noon 14 deg. 16 min. Saw a man of war bird. At six shortened sail. At eight hove to with the ship's head to S. S. E.
17. A fresh breeze at East. At five bore away; and at half past seven saw a strange bird and two dolphins, and some sea-weeds. At ten the man at the mast head called out Land, bearing about West. This land had been seen by Commodore Byron, in the Dolphin's first Voyage round the World; it is very extensive, and appears at a great distance, like an assemblage of many small isles, full of trees. Mr. Byron clalled it George's-Island. Lat. at noon 214 deg. 26½ min. At noon they were at the N. W. side of it, and about one in the afternoon hoisted the large cutter out and sent her in shore to sound. At half past two hoisted the pinnace out; and the large cutter came on board. The pinnace and cutter went on shore, well armed, with the first and third lieutenants, and other gentlemen, to reconnoitre the coast; the natives came from the other side of a lagoon that seemed to part the island, arm'd in large canoes; some of them brought one cocoa-nut in their hands, but would scarce trade at all; they wanted every thing they saw without making a return. They were in general furnished with long spears and lances, pointed with sting-ray tail-bones. They made a hideous noise among themselves, and some were for seizing the people's musquets, while others took to the bushes, and arming themselves with spears, advanced towards the boats. The gentlemen, unwilling to proceed to extremities, put off, and brought the captain an account of their inhospitable behaviour. The captain ordered the guns to be loaded with round shot, and to be fired just over the point where they were assembled; two of the shot went through the trees, and they could perceive from the ship one large cocoa-nut tree fall; other two went right through the place where the natives were posted, in a direction parallel with the horizon. They could hear them scream and make a fearful noise. After being in this manner intimidated, without which nothing can be done with these people, they brought in their boats 27 cocoa-nuts, and 6 dogs; the dogs were in general small and thick, with a large head, not unlike that of our bull dogs. These Indians were in general stour made men, tall, and well proportioned; and the women altogether as ordinary. They had no cloathing, except a piece of white netting about their waists, but they were copiously marked about the breast and arms with fishes and other sea animals. They were the most savage looking set of people, our journalist says, he had seen throughout the voyage, and were of a colour nearly approaching to black; they had black hair, tyed by some on the back part, and by others on the top of their heads; none of them were painted. Their houses were like dogkennels, about the length and breadth of a man, and not two feet high, thatched with cocoa-nut leaves; they spoke quite quick, and eat their words, as the sea-faring phrase is, like the New Guinea negroes.
Commodore Byron, who first gave name to this island, found the inhabitants equally inhospitable, and equally inclined to mischief. In a skirmish which his people had with a strong party of them, they killed three, and wounded several more, on which the whole body, men, women, and children, fled to the woods and mountains, and were not more seen. On the Tamar's boats first approaching the shore, one of the natives got into her, and in the twinkling of an eye seized a seaman's jacket, and jumping over-board with it never once appeared above water till he was close in shore, and mingled with the rest of his companions; another of them got hold of a midshipman's hat, but not knowing how to take it off, instead of lifting it up pulled it down, so that the owner had time to prevent its being taken away. In the ferocity of the natives the Commodore's relation agrees with that of our journalist, and so it does in the meanness of their hovels, but adds that they are delightfully situated.
It appears, however, that though Commodore Byron gave name to this island, the Dolphin and Tamar were not the first European ships that had visited it; for it will hardly be contested, after what has been said by the editor of the Historical Account of all the Voyages round the World performed by English Navigators, that it was here the African galley, one of Tasman's squadron, was shipwrecked, and that part of the crew fell victims to the rage of these barbarians; but it is by no means clear that the inhabitants, though ferocious, are man-eaters; on the contrary, the presumption is rather against that notion, as the writer of the Commodore's Voyage seems to think that the cocoa-nut trees furnish them with food, and almost all the other necessaries fo life. Dogs, however, it is almost certain, make a part of their luxuries; for our journalist takes notice, after a number of them had been slain, that dogs were brought as peace-offerings, to appease the wrath of their murderers, which they would not have done, had they not thought them delicacies; he further observes, that every native had his dog; and when the houses were deserted, the dogs remained and made a most terrific noise in the night by their howling. From several circumstances, Commodore Byron was of opinion, that a profitable pearl-fishery might be established on this and the adjacent islands of which we are giving an account; but later discoveries have shewn, that pearls are as rare in them as in Europe; none of any considerable size or remarkable beauty having been yet found on any of them. Good water, scurvy grass, and plenty of cocoa-nuts were however found here, of which the
honest Englishmen
made no scruple to load their boats, though they had before shot a number of the natives for carrying away a jacket.
It has been remarked, and perhaps with justice, that the vessels for navigation in every country display the utmost efforts of genius of which the inhabitants are capable in their construction; and that by the formation of them the ingenuity of a people may be estimated. If this observation is admitted, the people of George's island will not be thought destitute of invention. Their canoes, says Commodore Byron, are of very curious construction, and must cost them infinite labour. They consist of planks exceedingly well wrought, and in many places adorned with carving; these planks are sewed together, and over every seam there is a strip of tortoiseshell, very artificially inlaid to keep out the water. Their bottoms are sharp as a wedge, and the whole body is very narrow; and therefore two of them are generally joined together by a couple of cross spars, so that a space from six to eight feet is left open between them. Thus united, a mast is hoisted in each of them, and a sail spread between the masts. This sail is made of matting most curiously woven, and their cordage, though made of the outer bark of the cocoa nut, is admirable. Such is the nature, and such the art of the people of this remote island.
Our voyagers, having availed themselves all they could of the produce of the island, and gratified their curiosity in visiting their places of worship, and the repositories of their dead, about six in the evening the pinnace and large cutter were hoisted in, and there being no anchorage the ship lay off and on all night.
18. A fresh breeze from the eastward springing up, at five in the morning bore away, and made sail to the S. S. W. and came in sight of another fine pleasant island, and steered S. S. W. along shore, but did not land; though here the Dolphin and Tamar found the inhabitants much more hospitable than in the great island. Lat. at noon by observation 14 deg. 33 min. Saw great numbers of birds and several fish. At eight hauled up to the S. S. E. Wind at East. At twelve tacked and stood to the N. N. E. it being hazardous to proceed, the moon being down.
19. A pleasant breeze from the eastward. At three stood to the S. S. E. At five bore away S. W. by S. Wind at E. S. E. At half past seven saw land, bearing West, a low island, extending to a considerable distance. At ten came in sight of another island, bearing S. S. E. Ship's course S. W. At eleven bore away W. S. W. At one perceived a reef to run as far as we could see, consisting of a chain of small islands, from a quarter of a mile to one mile and a half from each other: these little spots abounded with cocoa-nut trees, and the reefs of rocks which divided them were at times dry; so that in general they could be reckoned nothing else but one continued chain of islands. The sailors imagined there were turtle about them, as they saw the natives busy on many of those reefs.—About three leagues to the southward, or S. S. W. of this range of isles, they could plainly perceive several other islands that seemed to be larger than these, and chained together in the same manner. Islands, and chains of islands, continued to present themselves almost hourly, without any other material occurrence happening till the 21st, when they made George's Island, bearing S. S. W. (the south part.) At half past eleven steered W. Lat. noon 16 deg. 50 min. At one steered W. half S.—At six shortened sail, being about three leagues from the land, hauled up to the northward, and lay off and on all night.
22. At nine brought to in Mattavey-bay, and the rest of the day employed in mooring the ship, furling the sails, and getting the tents and other requisites on shore. All this day great numbers of the natives thronged about the ship, to express their joy on the arrival of their old friends; among whom the girls were no small part of the company. It was now remarked, that the Otaheite girls were no less artful than the London mistresses; each was anxious to know what presents their lovers had brought them, where they had been, what curiosities they had met with, and no favours were now to be expected till the chest was opened, and they complimented with what they liked best. The freedoms that had been granted formerly were all forgotten, and new kindnesses were to be purchased with new valuables. Some indeed there were among them who expressed a real affection for the men they loved, but these were rare; for most of them chose to attach themselves to new admirers, by whom they expected to be more liberally rewarded than by their old mates. They were not now as formerly to be gratified with a nail; but insisted upon something equivalent in value to what would content a London mistress, and
no pence, no pater-noster.
It is a fact that some of the sailors squandered all they had, and all they could get credit for, upon them. Such are the mercenary tempers of the ladies of pleasure all over the world.
23. All hands were employed in preparations for refitting the ship; and the armourer's forge being put up, some of the men were eager to make use of it for their own private advantage before it was set to work for the repairs of the ship; but being discovered, were severely punished; and, not only he who used it, but he who suffered it to be used, was equally sentenced to receive twelve lashes.
24. The business to be done being settled, that part of the crew who were unemployed had leave to go on shore; and so alternately; and as two-thirds were fully sufficient to be on duty at a time, the other third were allowed to go on shore at a time; so that none had reason to complain but those who transgressed the rules. This day king Portotow with several of his nobles and great men came to pay their compliments to the Captain, and to make the usual presents on his arrival. These presents are always tendered as a free gift; but if a return is not made in the same way of more than the value, the giver considers it as an affront, and generally some inconvenience is observed to follow. The king with his retinue came in double canoes, such as were seen by our voyaagers at King George's Islands: but these double canoes, it must be observed, were not the canoes of Ottaheite, but such as it is probable came from some neighbouring isle, and only are seen here when these mighty chiefs vouchsafe to visit each other, or to pay a more than ordinary compliment to strangers. King Portotow brought with him three large hogs, and a considerable quantity of the finest cloth the country afforded, which he presented to the Captain, who received his presents, and entertained his followers, each according to his rank; and being shewn the curiosities brought from Middleburgh and Amsterdam, some beautiful scarlet feathers took place of every other article, and became so high in the estimation of those Chiefs, that for a plume they would give a hog. And now Amsterdam feathers took the lead in all their bargains; and happy the sailor who had been provident enough to lay in a stock.
25. This day it thundered, lightened, and rained to that degree that no man on board had ever remembered the like. The claps of thunder were so loud and terrifying, that one could hardly conceive the report of 10,000 cannon fired off at one and the same instant to be more tremendous. The lightening appeared about the masts and rigging like vortices of blue flame, the violence of which could only be abated by the torrents of rain that accompanied the lightening, and in all probability saved the ship from being set on fire. This storm lasted for three hours, and was the most terrifying our journalist ever beheld. The afternoon was fair, and the natives came in from all quarters to welcome their friends; and to bring hogs and fruit to sell for implements of iron, which still bore a value among the multitude. The women now had made their choice, and when their mates were restrained from sleeping on shore, they made no sort of scruple to come on board to sleep with them.
26. The whole island seemed to be in agitation, and it was imagined that a general muster of their whole force had taken place, preparatory to some grand warlike expedition, which the natives had in view. Above 600 canoes were ranged in order of battle. In each of these canoes were placed upright in sockets, a certain number of lances of various lengths, most of them headed with the tail bones of the sting-ray, the wounds with which generally prove mortal; and they had besides heaps of stones piled up on stages, in like manner as cannon-balls are piled up in European arsenals. This warlike appearance attracted the notice of Captain Cooke and his officers, who ordered the pinnace to be instantly got in readiness, and went himself to observe their motions; but upon his approach, they separated, and every man retired to his own home. Whatever was the intent of this muster, whether it was only an occasional review, or whether it was preparatory to an attack upon any of the neigbouring islands, or with a view to surprize the ship, no measure that followed gave sufficient grounds to determine.
27. All things appeared peaceable, the Indians came as usual about the ship to trade, and the gentlemen and others employed themselves on shore without molestation. It was however judged necessary to keep a watchful eye over them, lest over-security should invite any mischievous attempt.
From the 27th of April, till the 8th of May nothing worth relating happened to the ship's company; but on that day the coopers being at work in repairing the casks by the river side, they missed one of the number, and could not conceive by what invisible hand it could have been conveyed away, as a watch was set in the night to prevent any such accident, and a guard in the day kept constantly at the tents; those of the ship's crew who happened to be on shore were all strictly examined, as well as the watch and the guard; and one and all declared they knew nothing of the theft, nor was it likely they should, having no means of concealing the thing stolen. Complaint was therefore made to the chiefs, who, in compliment to the gentlemen resided near the tents, that a theft had been committed, and that none but the subtilest among their people could be the robber. It was therefore insisted, that strict search should be made, and that as the thing lost was of such a bulk as not easily to be secreted, it was urged that it might be recoverd, and the offender brought to justice, if those who were employed in the pursuit were in earnest to detect him. To this remonstrance, menaces were added, and the whole island threatened if the cask was not produced, and the thief delivered up. This caused great consternation and confusion among the chiefs; they presently assembled a large body of their people together, which they have a ready way of doing, and one of the chiefs made a long and very peremptory speech, which he delivered with a severe countenance; and as soon as he had ended, several persons were observed to pursue different routs, in order as it proved to apprehend the felon: It was some time before he was found, but it has been observed by former voyagers, that whenever any capital theft was meditated, their chiefs had some general knowledge of the intent before it was carried into execution, and yet it was not believed that they were either to be partakers of the booty or parties in the design. Something like this secret intelligence was very observable in the case we are now relating; for a more artful robbery never was devised.
On the 9th of May the offender was brought in triumph by one party, and the cask by another.
Upon his examination it appeared, that the fellow had laid his scheme some time before he executed it; that he had prepared for it by contriving a cavity in an over-grown bushy part of a sedgy swamp adjoining to the river, just big enough to contain the cask; and this being ready, he went in the dead of the night to a winding nook at some distance from the watch and sentry, but within hearing of both when every thing was still. Here he plunged himself into the water, and kept floundering about till he had attracted the notice of the guard, and when by peeping over the bank, he perceived they were making towards the place where the noise was; he swam silently under water, till he came near the spot where the cask he had in view was standing on the edge of the bank. This he softly pulled into the water, and made off with it, placing it between his neck and his shoulders, that he might not alarm the guard upon their return by the noise of pushing it before him in the water: they were some considerable time in searching about in order to discover what had occasioned so strange a plunging, during which the fellow found means to secret his prize, which he had so artfully covered, that it might have lain many years without being found, had not the hider confessed in what manner he had disposed of it. Though the ingenuity of this fellow might have pleaded his pardon, yet it was judged necessary to punish him as a terror to others: he was therefoer tied up and severely whipt after the manner of the discipline of the navy for offences of the like nature; and this was done in presence of the Chiefs of the island, and a great concourse of the natives who attended the execution, and who looked with an evil eye upon those concerned in what they called a cruel punishment.
This, however, cruel as it was thought, did not deter others from committing the like offences; for it was not long before another of them was detected on board the ship in stealing two jackets, and being caught in the fact, was tied to the geers, and received twelve lashes.
Much about this time one of the sentinels upon the watch unfortunately falling asleep, lost his musket, This was judged to be a theft of much greater consequence than either of the other two; for though it was certain they could make no bad use of one musket, and one charge of powder and ball, yet as it had been the constant policy of those who visited the island before, to keep the natives as ignorant as possible in the use of fire-arms, the Captain determined to furnish them with no means of enlarging their knowledge from any neglect of his. He therefore began by punishing the sentinel in a most exemplary manner for his breach of duty, that the natives might be eye-witnesses of the severity with which the people belonging to the ship were punished when they committed any offence; and being informed that prince Ottoo was privy to the theft, and that he was removed from Eparre, the royal residence, to a distant part of the country, the Captain dispatched a messenger after him. At the same time several other great men, having embarked in their canoes, were making off with all possible secrecy and haste; but being discovered from the ship, were instantly pursued. The Captain, who himself commanded in the pursuit, made signals for them to bring to, to which they paid no regard: at length he gave orders to fire; but as none of them were hurt by that order they rowed on. The fire was renewed, and the bullets flying thick about their boats, they at length thought proper to yield. When they were taken on board, they were shewn the sentinel in irons, and were given to understand that he was again to be punished if his musket was not returned, and that he would in the end be killed for not killing the man in attempting to steal and to carry it away. This was said to move their pity; for they are very compassionate, and will weep bitterly at the sight of a person in the agony of pain; but their tears are like the tears of children, easily excited, and as easily dried up. They were at the same time told, that, as by their flight it was manifest that they were not unacquainted with the robbery, and that there was reason to suspect, that if prince Ottoo was not himself the robber, he had been instrumental in promoting it, if they did not cause it to be returned in a limited time, the Captain declared with a severe tone of voice, that he would set fire to every boat about the island, and would not leave them a single vessel to go out to fish with. This was observed to work a much more powerful effect than the method taken to excite their pity. They desired to be released, and promised to recover the musket, and to send it on board; and in this they kept their word.
The very next morning a party of the natives brought it in a kind of rapture, as if by returning it they had delivered their country from impending ruin; as ruin it would certainly have been, had their boats been burnt. This party assured the Captain, by message from prince Ottoo, that he had left the fellow who had stolen the musket dead in the woods, and desired an interview with him to convince him of the fact. The Captain returned for answer, that he would wait upon the prince at the royal palace, to which he might return in safety, and that he wanted no other evidence of the truty of what they had reported than the prince's royal word. He dismissed the messengers with presents; and to fulfil his promise, began to prepare himself for a visit to Eparre, the place appointed for the interview with Ottoo, for till that was obtained, and the affair reconciled, all trade was totally prohibited, and not a single article to be purchased at any price.
Next day some of Ottoo's chief officers came aboard, and acquainted the Captain, that Ottoo was still under great concern, and rather wished to receive him at the place of his present residence than at Eparre; but that if he would condescend to come without a guard, he would meet him at the palace. The Captain having nothing more in view than to reestablish a good understanding with the natives, very readily gave his consent to come unattended; and farther assured them, if his highness was still under any dread, he would send one of his officers as a security that no indignity should be offered to his person, nor any insult to any of his retinue, provided they behaved with becoming respect. This having dissipated his fears, the manner of the visit was settled, and the time fixed for the parties to meet, which was at nine the next morning.
As the distance from the ship was about four miles, and no carriage to be had, the Captain set out pretty early with only Mr. Foster, and one or two officers to attend him. When he arrived he found the prince sitting in a very pensive mood; but when he was told that the gentlemen who were now before him were all the retinue the Captain had brought with him, he reassumed a more chearful and lively air, and expressed his desire to renew the peace by all the humiliating ways he could invent. The Captain, on the other hand, knowing the consequences of widening the breach, received his submission with the greatest alacrity, and entered familiarly into conversation with the women, who always on these occasions make a part of the company, as did the other gentlemen with those indifferently who composed the circle. Thus matters being cleared up, and all that had past forgiven on both sides, the Captain was desirous of taking his leave, and in return invited the prince and his nobles to accompany him on board; but this they all declined, as not being properly prepared, they, however, gave him to understand, that it should not be long before they accepted of his invitation. Accordingly in a few days prince Ottoo with many of his chiefs and attendants in three canoes were observed making towards the ship. They had with them as presents, hogs, fruit, and cloth; and they insisted that no return should be made for any thing that they presented; and, not to give offence, nothing was offered, but a variety of curiosities were laid in their way, which the Captain knew it was almost impossible for those people to refuse. They looked wishfully at many things, but touched nothing. They were pressed to dine, and they did not seem displeased with the attention paid them: they were entertained and amused by various ways till dinner was ready, and particularly with music and dancing in a grotesque taste, which gave them infinite pleasure, as among other humorous performances a hornpipe was introduced, at which they could scarce contain themselves. When notice was given that dinner was upon the table, and chairs were set, it was no small diversion to see the aukward figure they made, for they neither knew how to sit upon a chair, nor how to feed themselves with knife and fork. Their Chiefs are fed like children by their servants; but some soups being prepared, and spoons put into their hands, they made shift to help themselves with those, and to eat heartily. They were offered wines of various sorts unmixed, and afterwards mixed with water, but they would drink nothing but water. Such is the force of custom, that water by them was preferred to the most precious liquor the ship afforded.
After they had dined they were again diverted with music and dancing, to which they paid the greatest attention; and in the evening, after tea had been served up, they departed, highly delighted with their day's entertainment.
While these things were transacting on board, the launch was employed on shore in getting in wood for the ship's use; but, as it is usual, when the principal officers are engaged, and the command entrusted to inferiors, the failors will take liberties on those occasions, which at other times they would not dare to assume, two of those who were ordered to do duty on board, instead of cutting wood, strayed up the country in search of new mistresses; and before their return, the launch had left her station, and was gone on board. This was a grievous disappointment, and reduced the poor fellows to the disagreeable alternative of either hiring a canoe to take them on board, or returning to the woods to the company they had just deserted. In either case they knew they should be punished; but for lying out much more severely than for immediately following the launch. The latter, therefore, they made their choice in hope, as hope seldom deserts the enterprizing, that the captain might not yet be made acquainted with their absence, and that they might find favour with the officer to forbear complaint. They accordingly resigned themselves to chance, and rowed aboard; but unluckily for them, the report of their crime had out-run their diligence; and the irons in which they were to be confined were in readiness to be applied as soon as they had mounted the ship's side. They then repented, when it was too late, the exchange they had made, and wished they had been captives to love, rather than prisoners in irons, as the evil day might have been protracted, which now it was no longer in their power to delay; their punishment however was milder than they expected, having been sentenced to receive only six lashes each, when the same offence had usually been punished with twelve.
Peace being now restored, plenty succeeded, and the ship's company were more liberally supplied with fresh provisions, and at a cheaper rate than they had been at any time since their arrival in Matavey-bay.
The chiefs came now more frequently and familiarly on board than at first; and the gentlemen, particularly Mr. Foster, was more assiduously employed on shore than had been hitherto remarked: pains were taken too to keep the chiefs in good humour, by varying the diversions that were intended to amuse them, and fire-works were sometimes played off from the mast head to increase their astonishment, and sometimes from the tents to excite their admiration; the great guns, shotted with round and grape, were fired off to shew their effects; and sometimes the marines were drawn up in order of battle to display their evolutions.
In this manner mutual respect and mutual desires to please were preserved during the remainder of the ship's stay: The little interruptions that sometimes happened between the common people and the sailors, were here as in all other places, generally made up among themselves; or, if complaint was made to the officer or principal chief, justice was impartially dealt to both parties.
On the 12th of May, preparations were made for leaving their station; but it was not imagined that the captain intended to sail for some time to come; a few small casks of water were taken on board in the day, and at night fire-works were renewed, which though none of the best, filled the spectators with wonder and astonishment; but just as the fire-works had ceased, it began to thunder and lighten, which now terrified the poor Indians more than the fire-works had pleased them before, imagining their deities were angry, because the strangers had usurped their power. Such are the effects of superstition upon unenlightened minds.
On the 13th the natives perceived that the strangers were making preparations to depart; they therefore flocked to the ship's side with every kind of thing they thought of value, in order to purchase nails, knives, adzes, hatchets, scissars, or iron of any sort manufactured or not. Hogs were now so plenty they might be purchased as formerly, for an adze or an hatchet, of which the armourers being apprized of their value had made many for trade.
On the 14th the captain, with his officers and attendants went on shore to take leave of the great men of the island, who had invited them to see a play at the palace; these plays differ in nothing from those described in vol. III. of the Voyages round the World, except in their simplicity, those of Huaheiney being more artificial and complex. They seem to consist, like the Venetian comedies, of nothing but attitude and grimace, and have something resembling the tricks of harlequin, in which one is always in pursuit, while the other is busied in contriving to elude his search.
About two in the afternoon the gentlemen returned, and with them Prince Ottoo, and his father, with a multitude of attendants, who brought their boats loaded with hogs, some turtle, and a dolphin; delicacies which it was thought the island did not produce. About three the captain shewed a disposition to depart in earnest, and this being made public, the girls came crouding about the ship, crying and lamenting as if parting from their nearest and dearest relations. It is not to be conceived what an excess of grief they expressed on this occasion, and some of the common men appeared themselves not to be wholly unaffected when they parted with their mistresses. We have elsewhere observed that these people have tears at will, whenever they are disposed to counterfeit sorrow; but there is very little reason to imagine that those tears flow from the heart; for the men cry here as frequently as the women.
At parting with the captain, the nobles appeared to be very much affected, and as they just then communicated to him the reason of their mustering in the manner already described, and that in five days they should go to war with the people of Maurua, or York-Island, he gave them an English pendant, which he taught them how to display on the day of battle, and endeavoured to inspire them with an enthusiastic notion, that while they preserved that standard, they never should be overcome. And as these people look upon the Europeans possessed of gifts superior to themselves, it is not to be questioned that the sight of the standard will add to their courage, and that the persuasion of there being virtue in it to ensure victory, will redouble their ardour to obtain it.
Being now about to take our final leave of this celebrated island, we shall endeavour to give the reader a more distinct view of its situation, general figure, and extent, than has hitherto appeared; and to bring together in their order many things which mark the character of the inhabitants, and which are only to be met with in detached parts, without order and without reference. To do this it seems necessary to reduce the matter of which we intend to treat into distinct heads, which, for the sake of brevity, we shall forbear to enumerate, but shall range them in their proper order. And,
1. Of the situation of the island, which is perhaps the happiest in the world, being exposed to none of those vicissitudes of heat and cold which are observed to have so sensible an effect on the health and spirits of those who live in the remoter regions. Its exact position is from latitude 17 deg. 28 min. to lat. 17 deg. 53 min. S. and from long. 149 deg. 10 min. to long. 149 deg. 40 min. W. It lies nearly N. W. and S. E. and is divided into two distinct principalities by an isthmus, or neck of land not three miles over. The north-westerly division is however much larger, more fertile, but by no means so well cultivated as the south-easterly division, which shews that even the defects of nature have their use in prompting men to industry and art to supply their wants.
2. The figure of the largest peninsula, as it may be called, is nearly circular, being from North to South about 20 miles, and from East to West nearly the same. The whole is surrounded with a reef of rocks. The lesser peninsula is rather of an oval form, and from the neck of land on the North West side to the little isle of Otooareitte on the South East is about 12 miles; but from the mouth of the river Omatea on the South, to that of Owahe on the North not more than eight. The circumference of the largest peninsula is about 60 miles, the circumference of the smallest about 24; but in sailing round both, the line will be extended to 90 nearly.
3. For a particular account of the produce of the island, we are indebted no doubt to the indefatigable industry of Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, from whose materials the following catalogue is collected; namely, bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, bananas of thirteen sorts; plantains; a fruit not unlike an apple, which when ripe is very pleasant; sweet potatoes, yams, cocoas; a kind of arum; a fruit called by the natives jambu, very delicious; sugar-cane; a root of the saloop kind called pea; a plant called ethee; a fruit not unlike a kidney-bean called by the natives ahee, and when roasted tastes like chesnuts; a tree called wharra, which produces a fruit not unlike a pineapple; a shrub called nono; the morinda, which also produces fruit; a species of fern; and a plant called eve, of which the roots only are eaten; all these which serve the inhabitants for food the earth produces spontaneously; and there are besides a great variety of trees, shrubs, and plants, which serve for the various purposes of building houses, vessels for navigation, making tools, utensils of various kinds; manufactures, dyes, &c. which it would only tire the reader to recount.
4. The four-footed animals are but few which the island produces, none having been seen on the first landing of the Europeans but hogs, dogs, and rats; of the last the inhabitants are very fond. Poultry did not abound, nor is their poultry by any means so well flavoured as those of Europe. Their wild fowl are ducks only; and the birds that haunt the woods are chiefly pidgeons and paraquets; but with fish the coast abounds, of which the varieties are endless.
5. The general appearance of the island is very inviting; it is skirted with a most beautiful plain, and it is watered with a multitude of small rivulets, which in that climate is a blessing denied to many otherwise enchanting isles. As the eye is extended from the shore the prospect rises into hills and dales, forests and mountains, enriched with houses and plantations, and ornamented with the richest clothing of nature, a perpetual verdure. Nothing can exceed the view of their houses, standing upon small pillars among groves of beautiful trees unencumbered with any kind of underwood, and undeformed with brakes or bushes to intercept the eye; it is indeed a paradise where the curse pronounced in Eden has not yet taken place. No man here is under the necessity of getting his bread by the sweet of his brow.
6. Its inhabitants, particularly the Chiefs, are rather in size above the standard of the largest Europeans. Their food, which is of the simplest kind, is not such as to promote gluttony; nor their drink, which is chiefly water, calculated to provoke intemperance. Their daily intercourse with the ocean accustoms them from their youth to exercise; and the business of fishing, which in northern countries is the most laborious of all employments, is by them practised for amusement. Those who have represented them as indolent, because nature has so bountifully provided for them as to leave them little to do, have yet mistaken their character. Their Chiefs are their principal artists; and their houses, public edifices, canals and manufactures, their utensils, instruments of war, working tools, their boats, and fishing-tackle, are proofs of their industry, which cannot be controverted. Employments of this kind all tending to promote exercise, and to banish sloth, conduce to health; and no person was ever known to languish with any incurable disease among them, though it does not appear that the medical arts has yet made any considerable progress.—Much has been said of the gracefulness of their persons; but if we may judge of the rest by Autorou and Omia, who have been imported into Europe, they have very little to boast of that perfection. Their Chiefs have undoubtedly a comparative dignity; but that comparison is to be confined at home between prince and peasant, and not extended to European countries, where grace and dignity are leading characters. Their women differ from each other in personal charms, as in all other countries; but in stature, those of superior rank take especial care to preserve the family distinction. It is not uncommon for ladies of the first rank to single out a handsome well proportioned youth to prevent degeneracy, when the stature of the family is in danger of being reduced; but they are otherwise scrupulous in nothing so much as in mixing with the canaille, and there is hardly an instance of their cohabiting indiscriminately with the lower class of people. There is perhaps no nation where the pride of ancestry is carried to a greater height, and yet they have no means of recording their pedigree but by oral tradition, nor any rule for continuing the line but what nature has impressed upon the mother. As they have no schools, nothing is to be acquired by education; they are wholly governed by example; the pattern set by the father is followed by the son, and what the mother does, that the daughter learns; but this is not to be understood to perpetuate husbandry and arts as in China, in particular families; for in Ottaheite husbandry and arts are not imposed as tasks, but are rather amusements to pass away time. None are compelled to work, yet all are employed; their several stations chance seems to have allotted; and here there is no murmuring against providence for not being more bountiful. One precaution observed among the great in order to give vigour to their Chiefs must not be omitted, and that is, they never suffer an intercourse between the sexes till both parties arrive at full maturity. The very reverse of this is practised by the multitude, who are in general of mean stature, and as much below the common standard as their Chiefs exceed it. They are almost all tattowed, women as well as men; in this too there seems to be something mystical; the priest performs the office, and the poor children are encouraged by example to endure the pain, and surely nothing can be more acute. To have a thousand punctures all at once, with the blood starting at every puncture, is more, one would think, than a child could bear, yet they suffer it with a fortitude of which in Europe there is no example. Their hair is almost universally black, and the men wear it long, waving in ringlets down their shoulders; the women cut it short round their ears; both sexes suffer none to grow under their arms, and are very delicate in keeping every part about them sweet and clean; for this purpose they frequently bathe, seldom suffering a day to pass without going into the water more than once. Indeed they anoint their heads with an oil expressed from the cocoa-nut, which sometimes proving rancid, emits a disagreeable savour that custom only has familiarized. They are otherwise in their persons without a taint. A memorable expression of Mr. Banks,
That if our sailors quarrelled
with these people, they would not agree with angels,
sufficiently denotes the goodness of their disposition.
7. Their customs in eating, are very singular, and they certainly entertain some superstitious notions not easily discoverable by strangers. The women are not permitted to eat with the men; not, as it should seem, to mark their inferiority, but in conformity to a custom which habit has established into a law; nor is it usual for any of them to eat in company, except upon certain days of festivity, when great numbers of them assemble together. A messenger from Captain Wallis, found Oberea, the supposed Queen of the island, entertaining a company, which he supposed could not be less than a thousand; the messes were all brought to her by the servants that prepared them, the meat being put into the shells of cocoa-nuts, and the shells into wooden trays, and she distributed them with her own hands to the guests, who were seated in rows round the palace. This done, she sat down herself upon a seat somewhat elevated above the rest, and two women placing themselves, one on each side of her, fed her like a child; when she saw the messenger she ordered a mess for him.
They have two ways of dressing their animal food, broiling and baking; the first is performed over hot stones, without any other contrivance than placing the meat upon the clean stones, and when broiled enough on one side, they turn it, and broil the other; but their manner of baking is somewhat singular: they first dig a hole in the ground, in depth and dimensions proportioned to the thing they have to dress; they then place a layer of wood at bottom, and over that a layer of stones; and so alternately a layer of wood, and a layer of stones, till the hole is full: the fire is then kindled, and the stones made hot; this done, they take out the fire, and placing the stones that are least heated, one beside the other, at the bottom of the hole, they cover them with fresh leaves from the tree, and on these they put the meat they have to bake, properly cleaned and seasoned, and then, after laying another layer of green leaves, they fill up the hole with the remaining hot stones, and then close the whole with the mould that was first dug out of the pit. In this situation the meat is suffered to remain for three or four hours; and when taken out is then so savoury, as not to be exceeded by the best European cookery; almost all the flesh and fish eaten by the chiefs in the island is dressed in one or the other of the above two ways; the latter is most in use among the gentry; the former among the commonalty, who sometimes, indeed, eat their fish without dressing.
Tables they have none, and those of the highest quality dine on the ground under the shade of a spreading tree; fresh green leaves serve them for a cloth, and a basket which is set down by them holds their provision; two cocoa nuts, one filled with salt-water, the other with fresh, compleat the whole preparation for a meal; and when these are brought, and the leaves set in order, they begin by first washing their hands and mouth; that done, they proceed to examine the contents of the basket: Whatever is brought is ready dressed, and neatly wrapped up in clean leaves; if fish, they break the fish with their hands into the salt water, and with the tips of the fingers and thumb take it to their mouths with as much of the salt water as adheres to the fish; if flesh, they cut it, or rather sever it with a wooden knife, and dip it in the salt water as they do the fish; bread-fruit serves them instead of bread; and thus they proceed till the animal food, or as much as they like of it, is eaten. They then wash as before, and begin their vegetables, which generally consist of a preparation of bread-fruit, with a quantity of
mabie,
(a sort of sour-leven) plantains, bananas, cocoa-nuts and apples. When all is over they wash their hands and mouth a third time, and then, if nothing calls them abroad, they usually lay themselves down to sleep.
It was long before any of them could be persuaded to eat with the Europeans, and they certainly, like the Jews, have some superstitious ceremonies to be observed in the preparation of the food they eat, which, if omitted, renders it unclean, or they would not have continued scrupulous so long. Even the food of their women is differently prepared from that of the men; and if touched by unhallowed hands, is accounted unclean, and consequently unfit for use. Like the Jews, they were not averse to the strangers eating with them, though it was with the utmost reluctance that they eat with the strangers. Some of the gentlemen, when invited to their houses, eat out of the same basket, and drank out of the same cup with their hosts; but it was observed that the elder women were always offended with this liberty; and if they happened to touch those antient matrons victuals, or even the basket that held it, they never failed to express their dislike, and to throw it away; nor would the women of fashion ever be persuaded to eat with the gentlemen, when dining in company: but what seems most strange, and hardly to be accounted for, they would go, five or six in company, into the servants apartments, and eat heartily of whatever they could find; nor did they seem in the least disconcerted, if they were discovered in doing it; yet it was not easy to persuade any of them when alone, in private with a gentleman, to eat with him, nor would they ever do it but under the most solemn promises of secrecy. When the chiefs first visited Mr. Banks and his associates at the tents, each brought his basket with him, and when the gentlemen sat down to dinner, they withdrew, sat themselves down upon the ground at two or three yards distance from each other, and turning their faces different ways, took each man his basket, and dined without speaking a word; and they could not help expressing their dislike, and even disgust, at the gentlemen dining in company. It was with no less difficulty that any of them were prevailed upon to drink with the gentlemen; but some of them having at length been over-persuaded, and having been made very drunk, were the next day so very sick, that they never afterwards would touch any of the liquors that were offered them.
8. Their amusements are various, such as music, dancing, wrestling, shooting with the bow, darting their lances, swimming, rowing, and slinging of stones. Their music is indeed very imperfect, consisting only of a flute and a drum, yet, with these, companies go about the country and frequent their festivals, being in equal estimation with them as morris-dancers were formerly with us, and the diversion they make is not unsimilar. In shooting the longbow, or in throwing the lance, they by no means excel; neither are they very dexterous at wrestling; but at throwing stones, and swimming, they are perhaps equal to any people upon earth.
Among their other diversions, they have their heivas, very nearly corresponding with our ancient wakes. The young people meet together to dance and to make merry; and at these meetings their minstrels and players constantly attend, as formerly persons of the same character were wont to do all over England, and in some counties the vestiges of that ancient custom remain to this day. At these heivas, however, their girls in their dances have no regard to decency; and though the same end was no doubt in view in the institution of the wake and the heiva, yet what in England was concerted with the greatest secrecy, is in Ottaheite publickly avowed and practised.
It should seem that though the instrumental music of the Ottaheiteans is much confined, the vocal music is by no means contemptible; yet in the sweetness of the voice consists all the melody, for they have no rules to regulate the tones. Their songs are like the songs of children, accompanied with words of their own composing, which they can-vary into long and short verses, sprightly or solemn as occasion presents; and as the language itself is musical, the stranger is no less delighted with the arrantest nonsense, than he would be with the most sublime composition.
The heivas are indiscriminately frequented by all ranks of people among the Ottaheiteans; but there is still a more exceptionable meeting held by some of the principal people, to which those only are admitted who are properly initiated. These people form a distinct society, in which every woman is common to every man; and at their meetings, which are distinguished by the name of Arreoy, the sports they practise are beyond imagination wanton: "There is (says the writer of the Endeavour's Voyage)
"a scale of sensuality which these people have ascended wholly unknown to every other nation whose manners have been recorded, from the beginning of the world to the present hour, and which no imagination could conceive;"
and yet, notwithstanding this very severe censure and positive assertion, we may trace something very like it in the history of the ancient inhabitants of our own island. The following are the words of Sir William Temple, a writer of no small authority, who in reciting the custom makes nearly the same observation with the learned voyage writer.
"One custom there was (says Sir William) among the ancient Britons, which seems peculiar to themselves, and not found in the stories of any other nations either civil or barbarous, which was a society of wives among certain numbers; and by common consent every man married a single woman, who was always after and alone esteemed his wife; but it was usual for five or six, ten or twelve, or more, either brothers or friends, as they could agree, to have all their wives in common.
Encounters
happened among them, as they were invited by desire, or favoured by opportunity. Every woman's children were attributed to him that had married her; but all had a share in the care and defence of the while society, since no man knew which were his own. Though this custom be alledged as a testimony how savage or barbarous a people the Britons were, yet (adds Sir William) I know not why it should appear more extravagant than the community of women in some other countries, the deflowering of virgins by the priests on the first night of marriage, the unlimited number of wives and concubines, not to mention the marriage of sisters among the ancient Egyptians and Athenians, and the borrowing and lending of wives among the Romans."
Thus it appears that something very like this ladder of sensuality had been ascended by our ancestors, probably as early, if not before, the society we are speaking of had existence; and I believe if we were to transmit an impartial record of the manners of the present times, something still more similar to all the
aggravated circumstances
of this barbarous custom in Ottaheite (where when a woman happens to prove with child, the writer says, the poor infant is
smothered
the moment it is born, that it may be no
incumbrance to the father,
nor
interrupt the mother in the pleasures
of her diabolical prostitution, might be traced in the purlieus of Covent-Garden, and the alleys in and about Drury-Lane. Perhaps it would be no exaggeration if we were to add, that in the city of London there are as many men as the whole island of Ottaheite contains, who devote themselves entirely to the pleasures of variety, and who attach themselves to no one woman, but enjoy indiscriminately all they may; and that there are an equal number of women to be met with, who are at all times ready to gratify their desires; nor have these men or these women any more regard for their poor infants, than the members of that diabolical society, against which the piety of the writer prompted him to exclaim. We said
aggravated circumstances,
because as the reasons assigned by the writer for smothering the poor infants are to the last degree futile, it may be presumed that the children of such general commerce may, like the children of our ancestors, be considered as the children of the society, since smothering the child as soon as born, would not shorten, the interruptions necessarily impeding the pleasures of the mother, nor encumber a father that could not be known.
Among people so immersed in sensuality one would think dress would be no ornament, but the contrary; yet among the Ottaheitean ladies dress seems to be as much studied as among the ladies of more civilized nations. It is not a little remarkable however, that neither the feet or legs of the first ladies of quality in Ottaheite have any covering or other defence from the ground on which they tread, or from the scorching heat of the sun, which at some seasons is very intense. But they are very nice in ornamenting their heads, and in shading their faces. Their chief head-dress, in which they pride themselves the most, is threads of human hair so delicately plaited, that it is not unusual for them to have garlands of this manufacture would round their heads, that were they to be unfolded, would encircle St. Paul's; the plaits whereof being beset with flowers have a very pretty effect, and are exceedingly becoming to young faces. In their ears they wear ornaments, which before the European beads supplanted all others, consisted of any thing red, shining, or shewy. The other part of their dress has nothing particular, it is very simple, and needs neither taylor nor mantua-maker to make it up. A piece of cloth about a yard and a half wide, and between three and four yards long, is placed upon a table, and a hole cut in the middle just big enough to let the head pass easily through, and this flows round them, and covers them to a little below the waist; from thence a large quantity of the same cloth is gathered in folds, and tied round them as we tie a cravat round the neck, which being drawn into a large knot is again spread out, and flows artlessly down before nearly as low as the knees, while the greatest quantity of cloth falls down behind, in appearance not unlike the dress of the Roman orators. This dress is far from being ungraceful, and there is but little difference between that of the sexes, except that the lower garments of the men are nearly of an equal length before and behind. Some of the Chiefs had dresses made after the English fashion, of which they were very proud. The cloth they wear is of very different textures; that which is worn in dry weather is no other than paper made of the rind of trees, of which a more particular description under the head of manufactures will be given; but that which they put on when it rains is more substantial, and is properly a kind of matting incomparably platted. The shape of their clothing, like that of our own, is nearly the same from the prince to the peasant; the only distinctions are the quantity worn, and the colouring; the lower class of people wearing only one single garment; the better sort as many as were they made of broad-cloth would burden them to carry. One thing, however, appears singular; when they salute one another, they constantly unbare themselves from the waist upwards, throwing off their tunics, as we may call them, with the same ease and for the same purpose as we pull off our hats. This salutation is common to the women as well as the men, and is the universal practice.
9. Their arts may be reduced to five, namely, architecture, carving, ship-building, navigation, and painting; yet, for any thing that appears to the contrary, they are all directed by the same class of men, who, like the druids of old, are priests, philosophers, and artists. Of their architecture, however, there is but one remarkable specimen existing in the greater-island; and not many in the lesser. This building is the Moral, or sepulchral monument of Oborea, of whom mention has already been made in the course of this narrative. It is indeed prodigious; it is a pile of stone 267 feet long and 87 wide at the base, raised by flights of steps to the height of 44 feet; these steps are each four feet high, narrowing gradually, till they end in a small entablature, on which near the middle stands the figure of a bird carved in wood, and at a proper distance the broken fragments of a fish cut in stone. This pile makes a considerable part of one side of a square court, whose area is 360 feet by 354, inclosed within a wall of stone, and paved with the same meterials through its whole extent. As this square is surrounded with trees, and has many growing within it of a particular kind, it forms at a distance the most delightful grove that imagination can paint. At what time it was erected could not be learnt, for they have no records of past transactions; but being constructed of coral stones, many of them of large dimensions, neatly squared and polished, and so nicely joined as hardly to discover a seam, it must fill the mind of a nice observer with rapture to examine all its parts. To think how such a mass of materials could be brought together in an island where no quarries are to be found; how these materials could be cut with such exactness, as to form a pile impenetrable by rain, without cement, and that with tools less hard than the material to which they were applied; and lastly, how these enormous blocks of stone could afterwards be raised to the height of 44 feet to close and cover in the building, must surely excite the wonder of every ordinary beholder; but to mark the symmetry of the whole, so justly proportioned in every part as to display the most consummate judgment, without assistance from the rules of art, must afford a feast to an enlightened mind, of which an ordinary seaman can have no relish. This noble structure, though single, is such a proof of genius as will remain the admiration of the world, as long perhaps as the island itself endures; for being solid, without a cavity, no time that will not equally affect the island will ever destroy it.
Of their carving in stone there are but few specimens to be produced, and indeed when their tools they have to work with are considered, it is more to be admired that there are any, than that there are so few; but there is reason to hope that now they are made acquainted with the use of iron, and have considerable quantities of that metal amongst them, that their improvements will speedily be proportioned to their advantages. Of their carving in wood, there is hardly a tool or ordinary utensil of any kind that does not discover evident proofs of their expertness in that art. Their vessels for navigation are all adorned with it; and in some of their performances of that kind there is an excellence discernible, that with such tools as they have to work with no European carver could exceed.
With regard to their ship-building little can be said, but that they are upon a footing with their neighbours. Their vessels are well enough fitted to the seas they have to navigate; and there is hardly an instance of any of them being cast away: they are most of them elevated at the head and stern, for the purpose of defending the rowers from the surf, which on these islands breaks upon the shore with uncommon violence; those of Otaheite are in form not unlike the punt-boats, with flat bottoms, used by our fishermen up the river Thames, or rather like those used for the same purpose on the Severn: they are no where wider than three feet, though some of them are more than 60 feet long; nor are they an inch deeper in the body, though at the head and stern, they rise with a curvature more than 12 feet. As it would be impossible to navigate these vessels, so long and so narrow, without some contrivance to keep them upright, they place two of them as near as can be of the same dimensions, along side of each other, at three, four, or five feet distance, and with strong spars join them together; then raising a mast in each, they hoist a square sail, the yards of which are fastened above and below to the corresponding masts, and thus equipt, with a cabin erected between them to stow their provisions, they will keep the sea for several days. Their ordinary fishing canoes are in nothing different from the boats that boys make, except in their size, and that a flat board projects a foot or two before, narrowing to a point, and the same again in the stern. In rigging their double canoes, they have a rule for proportioning the height of the masts to the length of the keel, and of fitting the sail to the height of the mast: they likewise have a contrivance of sailing in single canoes, by means of outriggers, which project on the lee-side of the vessel, and prevents their over-setting; to this outrigger one corner of the sail is made fast, which sail being wide at bottom, and rounding to a point a-top, very much resembles what the boatmen call a shoulder of mutton sail, and which is not unfrequently seen on the river Thames. To those who have been told that the mason can joint stone with so much nicety as to be impervious to water, it will not seem strange that their carpenters can do the same with respect to timber, yet it certainly must require much art and incredible labour, first to fell the tree, then to cleave it out into planks, then to hollow it out to the intended shape; next to smooth and polish it, after that to joint it, and last of all to put it together, and saw it, for they were wholly ignorant of the art of bolting it with wooden bolts, or jointing it together by means of mortices, till the Europeans visited them. It is no wonder therefore that they dreaded nothing so much as the destruction of their boats when threatened by the English for any offence, nor that they are more careful in covering their boat-houses from the sun and rain, than they are in securing their dwellings from the same injury.
As their whole art of navigation depends upon their minutely observing the motions of the heavenly bodies, it is astonishing with what exactness their navigators can describe the motions and changes of those luminaries. There was not a star in their hemisphere fixt or erratic but Toobia could give a name to, tell when and where it would appear and disappear; and what was still more wonderful, could foretell from the aspect of the heavens the changes of the wind, and the alterations of the weather, several days before they happened. By this intelligence he had been enabled to visit most of the islands for many degrees round that of which he was a native. By the sun they steer in the day, and by the stars they steer in the night; and by their skill in presaging the weather, they can without danger lengthen or shorten their voyage as appearances are for or against them. As they have no medium wherewith to trade, their voyages seem wholly calculated for discovery, or to increase their acquaintance one nation with another. Riches they do not seem sollicitous to acquire, as riches confer no distinction on the owner; and yet, without such a motive, it is not easy to conceive what prompts one to take away what another has in possession. They certainly interchange their commodities among themselves as well as with strangers: the fisherman barters his fish for the planter's bread-fruit, and so of the rest; yet every man seems to be a fisherman, and every man a planter: this shews that we are still strangers to their civil oeconomy. It had been good policy to have suffered two or three young fellows who were desirous of staying behind, to have settled among them, especially as there was reason to believe that the island would again be visited, if for no other reason but to restore to them the native who had voluntarily undertaken a voyage to Europe; but against this it seems the officers very carefully guarded.
Their painting appears to be in a rude state, and chiefly confined to the figures represented on their bodies, and the ornaments on their vessels of navigation. The figures represented on their bodies are generally those of birds and fishes, sometimes after nature, and sometimes the creatures of the artist's fancy; but whatever is represented, the outline is traced with astonishing exactness. This art is solely confined to the priesthood, and is performed like baptism as a rite, without which, after a certain age, none are accounted worthy of society. From twelve to fourteen is the period allotted for the performance of this rite, for before that age the children are thought unable to endure the smart.
The other sort of painting in use among these islanders may rather be called daubing, consisting only in colouring the rude carvings in their pleasure-boats, &c. sometimes with one colour, and sometimes with another, but most commonly with red.
Such is the present state of the arts in this celebrated island, which, had Toobia lived to have come to England, and to have returned again to his own country, would no doubt have received a rapid improvement, for he was a man of real genius, a priest of the first order, and an excellent artist: he was, however, by no means beloved by the Endeavour's crew, being looked upon as proud and austere, extorting homage, which the sailors who thought themselves degraded by bending to an Indian, were very unwilling to pay, and preferring complaints against them on the most trivial occasions. On the contrary, his boy Tayota was the darling of the ship's company from the highest to the lowest, being of a mild and docile disposition, ready to do any kind office for the meanest in the ship, and never complaining, but always pleased. His death at Batavia was much lamented.
10. Their manufactures are of various kinds; but that of cloth is in the highest estimation amongst them: why, indeed, it should be called cloth no other reason can be assigned but that it is worn by the natives as clothing; for, as a manufacture, it has no one process similar to that which we distinguish by the name of cloth. The material of which it is made is neither spun nor woven in a loom, but in every respect is prepared after the first simple manner of making paper before mills were applied to facilitate the labour. The bark is first stript from the tree and laid in the water, as we do flax to soak; it is then divested of the rind by scraping, till only the fibres of the inside remain. When it is properly cleansed it is then placed upon leaves, one layer by the side of another, till it is of sufficient breadth; and in the same manner it is extended to what length the manufacturer chuses, or the ground will admit: to strengthen it, and increase its breadth, one layer is laid over another tll it is of the substance required.
is left to drain, and when it is just dry enough to be raised from the ground, it is then placed upon a kind of stage made of smooth boards, and beat with a square bearer about a foot long, and two or three inches broad. On each of the four sides of this beater parallel lines are cut lengthwise; these lines differ in fineness, in a proportion from a small twine to a silken thread. They first begin with the coarsest side of the beater, and finish with the finest. By the continued application of this beater, in which two people are generally employed, who stand opposite to each other on each side the stage, and regulate their strokes like smiths on an anvil, the cloth, if cloth it must be called, in its rough state thins apace, and as it thins it increases in breadth. When it has undergone this process, it is then spread out to whiten, and when sufficiently whitened it then becomes the ladies province carefully to look it over, and to remove all blemishes. Thus far compleated, it is coloured, generally red or yellow; and when that is done, it is rolled up, and laid by for use. By this description the reader will readily comprehend in what manner the fabric may be varied into fine or course, according to the materials of which it is made, and the labour bestowed upon it. In Ottaheite the bark of three different trees is made use of in this manufacture; the Chinese-paper-mulberry, the bread-fruittree, and the wild fig-tree. Of the first and second the finest sorts are made; but of the last, the most durable. The first and second imbibe water like paper; but the latter will resist the rain. They have a method of washing this cloth after being worn; but when it is washed, it is again beaten; by this last process it is rendered very soft and pliable.
Another considerable manufacture is that of matting, made likewise of the rinds of plants and shrubs, which are manufactured to a degree of fineness not to be equalled by any thing of the kind known in Europe. Of this manufacture they make their sails to their shipping, the coverings of their beds, and even their cloathing in rainy weather. They make this matting with astonishing dispatch.
Their cordage is another considerable article, which is made of the rind of a plant not unlike a wild nettle. In this manufacture they likewise excel, but we do not learn that any of it was purchased for the ship's use. Their lines made for fishing are much superior to any thing used for the same purpose in Europe, being stronger and infinitely more durable. Their fishing-nets have the same advantages; but the cords made of human hair, which the ladies wind round their heads, and which like netting here, is the chief amusement of the ladies there, is incomparably beyond any thing that can be conceived in twisting. Mr. Banks is said to have in his possession a specimen of it, near two thousand yards in length, as fine as the finest silk-thread, and without a knot; neither have they any engine to assist them in the performance, but all is done by hand, and with a quickness that almost exceeds belief.
They have also a manufacture of basket, or wicker-work, of which every native is a proficient; and as they have a kind of emulation in excelling in this manufacture, it is not to be wondered at, that there should be as many different forms, as there are different makers, some of them incomparably neat. But among the curiosities of this kind, that which was most admired by the Europeans, was the figure of a man upwards of seven feet high, represented in basket-work. "This wicker-skeleton, (says the writer of the Endeavour's Voyage,)
"was compleatly covered with feathers, white where the skin was to appear, and black in those parts which it is their custom to paint or stain, and upon the head, where there was to be a representation of hair: Upon the head also were four protuberances, three in front, and one behind, which the natives called tate-ete, or little men."
This, it seems was a representation of one of their deities.
Other manufactures of less account are their weapons of war, which seem to be the workmanship of the owners, their fishing-tackle of various sorts, their working-tools, and their jewelery; in the latter of which they display no great ingenuity.
11. Come we now to their civil government, of which, however, we have no distinct idea. By what indeed we can gather from the relations already made public, there seems to be a remarkable conformity between their establishment, and that of the antient Britons, which consisted of several small nations, under so many petty princes or chiefs, who in cases of common danger united under one head. These chiefs had all of them their respective families, who multiplying, became a distinct class from the common or lower sort of people, and exercised an unlimited authority over them. Of these two classes, added to that of the priesthood, the whole body of the people consisted, so that among them, what one class found necessary to command, the other was ready to execute. Hence it was that industry took place, and arts were invented; and this seems to be the present state of the islanders, of whom we are now speaking. Laws they had none, but such as naturally arose from the idea of superiority and submission, such as excite parents to corect the faults of their children; neither have the Ottaheiteans any other at this day. There is no crime among them that subjects a man to death, and when life is taken away, it is always in the heat of passion or resentment, and not the effect of formal accusation and deliberate punishment. The contentions that arose among the chiefs, like the quarrels of neighbouring schools, became the quarrels of the whole community; and these quarrels necessarily led the parties to have recourse to arms, and in proportion as the contentions grew more frequent, the weapons that were contrived for defence, grew more desperate. It was not, however, till after civilization began to take place, that contentions for liberty began to spread devastation among people of the same community. In their primary state of subjection, the people never entertained a thought that they were in slavery; they obeyed as children do their parents, from a principle originating in nature, which teaches the weak to submit to the strong, and those of mean understanding to be governed by those whose wisdom they tacitly acknowledge. This appears to be a just representation of the state of civil government in Ottaheite, where none think themselves slaves, yet few are free.
Concerning their religion, the little information we have received is so vague and contradictory, that nothing can with certainty be said about it. We are told that they have idols, and yet are no idolaters; that they have places of worship, but that they never assemble to pay adoration; that they acknowledge deities of several orders, but that they have no forms of addressing them. They have priests likewise of several orders, who have different offices assigned, but few of those offices are particularized, except that they preside and pray at funerals, and are the principal attendants at their Morais, or Temples; though it does not appear that any ceremonies of devotion are performed there. The offices that have been observed as appertaining to the priesthood, are three, namely, circumcising, tattowing, and praying at the funerals of the dead; that of circumcising is not performed after the manner of the Jews, but after a peculiar manner of their own; and has no doubt the purity of the circumcised for its object, in bringing every part about them into contact with the water with which they constantly wash three times a day. Tattowing, whatever its object, is never omitted; and praying for the dead is certainly a proof that they believe in the souls existing in a separate state, after it has taken its slight from the body, which, it should seem by their placing meat and drink in their burying places, they do not think immediately takes place.
In this custom, however, they are far from being singular; in the infancy of almost every state something of the like kind may be traced. Among the antient Romans, they placed meat upon the tombs of their deceased friends, that the ghosts might come out and eat, as they fancied they would; and when they intended to express the most abject state of human wretchedness, they used to say,
such a creature gets his food from the tombs.
The character of the Tahowa of the Ottaheiteans very nearly corresponds with that of Druid, among the Britons. The Tahowa is the chief priest, of which, however, there are several orders, as has already been remarked, whose erudition consists in learning the several traditional memorials of antient times; in being made acquainted with the opinion of their ancestors, concerning the origin of things; and in the repetition of many myterious sentences, in a language which the vulgar do not understand. This, perhaps, might be thought a fiction founded on the Popish custom of praying in an unknown tongue, were it not that the Brahmins in the East have their mystic language, as have likewise all the followers of the great Zoroaster. The priests are superior too to the rest of the people in the knowledge of navigation and astronomy, and in all the liberal arts, of which these people have any idea. Thus far the character of the Tahowa agrees with that of the Druid, in every particular. Sir William Temple, whom we have already quoted, says, the Druids were the only persons of any sort of learning in these nations, which was derived by long tradition among them, and consisted in the observation of the heavens, knowledge of the stars and their courses, and thereby the presagers of many events, &c. that they had the care and direction of all religious matters, and that their authority was absolute. And Rapin adds, that the chief of the Druids was a sort of pontiff, or high-priest, who had authority over all the rest, and whose dignity was elective. It would be no unpleasing task to trace the conformity of the customs and manners of nations remote from one another in their infant state, were it not foreign to the business we have in hand, which however furnishes the materials for such an enquiry, which the writer may one day or other take the pains to arrange.
In the mean time we shall take our leave of the Ottaheiteans, by a brief account of their funeral ceremonies, that being the only solemnity in which the priest and the people jointly assist.
"As soon as a native of Ottaheite is known to be dead, the house, says the writer of the Endeavour's voyage, is filled with relations, who deplore their loss, some by loud lamentations, and some by less clamorous, but more genuine expressions of grief. Those who are in the nearest degree of kindred, and are really affected by the event, are silent; the rest are one moment uttering passionate exclamations in a chorus, and the next laughing and talking, without the least appearance of concern:"
and here we cannot help remarking, that this description is equally applicable to the wild Irish, as to the people for whom it was written, for no description can be nearer the tRuth.
"This solemnity, the writer adds, is continued only for a day and a night;"
but among the Irish it is continued for several nights. "On the next morning the body is shrouded, and conveyed to the sea-side upon a bier, which the bearers support upon their shoulders, attended by the priest, who having prayed over the body, repeats his sentences during the procession. When it arrives at the water's edge it is set down upon the beach, the priest renews his prayers, and taking up some of the water in his hand sprinkles it towards the body, but not upon it. It is then carried back 40 or 50 yards, and soon after brought again to the beach, where the prayers and sprinkling are repeated. It is thus removed backwards and forwards several times; and while these ceremonies have been performing, a house has been built, and a small piece of ground railed round, in the centre of which a stage is erected on which they place the bier, and the body is there left to putrify, till the flesh is wasted from the bones. As soon as the body is deposited the mourning is renewed, the women assemble, and are led to the door by the nearest relation, who strikes a shark's tooth several times into the crown of her head; the blood copiously follows, and is carefully received upon pieces of linen, [probably upon pieces of their unsullied white cloth, for linen they had none before the Europeans visited them] which are thrown under the bier. The rest of the women follow this example, and the ceremony is repeated at the interval of two or three days, as long as the zeal and sotrow of the parties hold out. The tears also which are shed upon these occasions are received upon pieces of cloth, and offered as oblations to the dead; some of the younger people cut off their hair, and that is thrown under the bier with the other offerings. "This custom, adds the writer,
"is founded on the notion that the soul of the deceased is hovering about the place where the body is deposited; that it observes the actions of the survivors, and is gratified by such testimonies of their affection and grief."
But whether this is their belief or the writer's is very problematical; neither is it certain that the priest is an attendant in the procession of the deceased to the water's edge; for in the funerals at which Mr. Banks was a party no mention is made of a priest; and Tuberai Tumaide, who was chief mourner, is said to have pronounced the funeral service, whatever that service might be. The natives are all said to fly before these processions, and the reason assigned is, the chief mourner carries in his hand a long flat stick, the edge of which is set with sharks teeth, and in a phrensy, which his grief is supposed to have inspired, he runs at all he sees, and if any of them happen to be overtaken, he strikes them most unmercifully with his indented cudgel, which cannot fail to wound them in a dangerous manner. But this reason, though a plausible one, does not seem to come up to what is said occasionally in the course of the relation, that while the corpse is carrying in procession the people every where fly and hide themselves in the woods, and that none but those immediately concerned in it, if they can avoid it, come in sight. Were it only for fear of the cudgel that these people fled, they needed not run so far as the woods, nor to quit their houses, (as Mr. Banks observed they did when the corpse of an old woman whose funeral he attended came by in procession) to hide themselves in holes; it would have been sufficient for them to have kept out of the reach of the cudgel; but they must be awed by some secret motive; some superstitious dread of some misfortune happening to them if they should meet the corpse, either in an unlucky place, or in an ominous situation; as at this day many people in the northern parts of Britain get out of the way of a corpse when carrying to the grave for these or the like reasons. These people are certainly not intimidated by the apprehension of being beaten; but they have a dread upon them of they know not what; yet it is such a dread as insensibly impells them to keep at a distance; and if by accident they are surprised, and meet the corpse at the corner of a street, or the rounding of a hill, they never fail to bless themselves, and to turn the way the corpse is carrying, and walk in the same direction for several paces to avert the bad effects of the unlucky omen, which they always interpret against themselves.
Parkinson's account of the funeral ceremonies of the islanders in the South-Seas is less laboured than the writer's we have above quoted, but is more natural; he was indeed an eyewitness of what he wrote, and therefore judged from what he saw, not from what was reported to him. He tells us, that the priest, accompanied with two boys painted black, attend at the Morai, or place where the corpse is deposited to receive the hogs, fish, and other provisions, which on these occasions are offered to the Ethooa or deity of the place, and to lay them upon an altar; that this priest and his attendants are employed in strewing the body of the defunct with leaves and flowers of bamboo; that for two or three days he occasionally ranges the adjacent fields and woods, from which every one retires on his approach. The relations, in the mean time, build a temporary house near the Morai, where they assemble, and the females mourn for the deceased by singing songs of grief, howling, and wounding their bodies in different places with sharks teeth; after which they bathe their wounds in the next river or sea, and again return to howl and cut themselves, which they continue for three days. After the body is corrupted, and the bones are become bare, the skeleton is deposited in a sort of stone-pyramid built for that purpose. He adds, that these Morais are frequented by two birds sacred to their gods, namely, the gray heron, and a blue and brown king-fisher; but whether these birds, or the priest and his attendants eat the offerings that are made to the presiding deity, or whether they are eaten at all, is not declared. It is agreed, however, that the piety of the natives is in no instance so strongly expressed as in the profusion of covering they bestow upon the remains of their deceased friends, and in the ornaments with which they decorate their Morais; but these Morais are not the receptacles of the ordinary dead, but appropriated solely to the use of the principal families to which each respectively belongs; how it fares with the bodies of the common herd we are not told, whether they are suffered to rot upon the ground, or under it, does not attract the notice of the voyager, who is only intent upon what is striking in high life, without regarding the ordinary occurrences that daily pass among the multitude.
15. It does not appear that they have either physicians or surgeons, by profession, among them, except the priest, whose relief consists in prayers and ceremonies, not in drugs or prescriptions; yet we must not conclude from hence that they are deficient in the art of healing. Two or three instances occur in the relations of different voyagers, which are striking proofs of their knowledge in what is necessary to preserve life. Toopia was pierced through the body with a lance, headed with the jagged bone of the sting-ray; the weapon went in at his back and came out just under his breast, yet he was perfectly cured, and never complained of any inconvenience from the bad effects of his wound. A man whose head was almost crushed, his face beat in, his nose flatted, and one eye beat out, the hollow of which would almost admit one's fist; yet this man was cured, and to appearance felt no remaining pain; a third had a stone drove through his head with a sling in the wars, and yet, how improbable soever it may seem, he, like the others, appeared to enjoy a good state of health. These are incontestible proofs of their knowledge of the virtues of balsams, of which we are either not possest, or are ignorant of their healing qualities.
From this brief account of the island and people of Otaheite, many will be ready to envy them their felicity; but it must be remembered, as a foil to their happiness, that they do not always sleep in security; they are frequently surprized by their more warlike neighbours, and whole districts depopulated; for, if in the invasions of one another's territories, they happen to prove successful, they spare neither man, woman, nor child.—But to return:
On the 14th of May we left the ship under sail, and that night she cleared the reef.
On the 15th they had an open sea and a fine breeze in their favour; but just as the ship's canvas was spreading, one of the officers from the gun-room ports, observed a person in the water, making from the ship towards the land; they immediately hove to, and hoisted out the large cutter, armed her, and sent her after the man, who proved to be the gunner's mate, endeavouring to escape with a view to be left behind; and pity it was that he happened to be discovered, as from him a more copious and accurate account of the religion and civil government of these people might have been expected after a few years stay among them, than could possibly be collected from a few short visits, by gentlemen who had the language to learn, and whose first business was to procure necessaries, in order to enable them to pursue more important discoveries. But this attempt failing, and the man taken up, he was brought back, and laid in irons to bewail his ill-fortune, having flattered himself, as a man of enterprize and courage, with being made king of the country, or at least prime minister. No impediment now remaining the ship pursued her course to the N. W. and N. W. by W. having four of the natives of Ottaheite on board as passengers to Huaheiney, to which she was bound, and where she cast anchor the same night. Here the captain was welcomed by king Oree, who came on board before the ship was well moored, bringing with him a hog as a present.
On the 16th abundance of canoes came along side the ship to trade, bringing hogs, fowls, and fruit of various sorts, to barter for such things as were shewn them, of which each chose what he thought was most valuable, according to the price that was set upon it. But while the greatest part of the people were engaged in traffic, some were employed in an attempt to carry off one of the ship's buoys; these, however, were discovered before they had accomplished their design, were fired upon, and for safety obliged to jump into the sea, leaving their canoe behind them, which by way of punishment, was taken on board, and cut up for the use of the cooks. This day the captain and gentlemen went on shore to pay their compliments to the king and his nobles, and Mr. Foster went up the country to examine its productions. This he continued as a daily task during the ship's continuance in this harbour. While he was thus employed, some of the other gentlemen and officers went up into the woods a-shooting, and the captain employed himself in laying in provisions and increasing the ship's stores.
On the 16th the number of inhabitants that came about the ship was so great, that it was found necessary to place sentinels in the gangways, to prevent the men from coming on board, but no opposition was made to the women, so that the ship was crouded with them.
17. King Oree came and dined on board, and the captain ordered the guns to be shotted, and fired by way of salute at his entrance and departure; he had given the captain to understand that he expected the same honours to be paid to him, as had been shewn to the chiefs of Ottaheite.
18. A report was current, that the natives intended to rise and attack the ship. The captain, though he did not think them serious in such an attempt, yet was unwilling totally to disregard the intimation; he therefore ordered 20 stand of arms to be in readiness in case any commotion should be observed among them.
19. The rumour increased, but no preparations could be observed to countenance such a report; the king continued his visits as usual, and never came empty handed.
20. The first and second lieutenants, and one of the mates being a duck shooting, were set upon by a party of the people consisting of more than 50, who first diverted them of their arms, and then robbed them of what articles they had carried with them to trade; in the scuffle the first lieutenant lost the skirt of his coat, and one of the other gentlemen received a severe blow. When the party had stripped them of their merchandizes, they restored to them their fowling-pieces, and suffered them to make the best of their way on board, where king Oree happened to be feasting; they complained of the insult, and insisted on satisfaction for the loss; he told them that it was not in his power to punish the party that had committed the robbery, they being out of his jurisdiction; but he offered to head any number of the ship's company that should be thought able to reduce them, and would shew them the way to their place of residence, which offer, being thought reasonable, was accepted; but at the same time he assured them, that these men were not afraid of their guns, as they had frequently seen them miss fire.
21. The captain and officers made ready to accompany king Oree in the expedition against the robbers; and having ordered fifty marines with some sailors to be well armed, they landed near the palace of the king, and having required him to conduct them according to his promise, he very readily consented, and they all set out together; and, having marched for more than ten miles, they at length came to a high hill, which parted the dominions of Oree from those of the king whose subjects they were who committed the robbery, and over which they were to pass before they could approach them. Here they found the ascent very steep, and very fatiguing; but when they had reached the summit, the king shewed them the residence of the robbers at some distance in the valley on the opposite side of the hill, and left it to the captain's choice, either to proceed, or to return back. Obadee, the volunteer Indian, who had accompanied the captain in his former voyage to the South, very earnestly dissuaded him from proceeding, by telling him that they wanted only to decoy him; that there was no access to those Indians but through a steep and narrow pass, in which two men only could go a-breast, and that there they could destroy them with stones while their fire-arms could be of little or no use. This honest representation having its weight, the captain gave over the pursuit, and the whole party returned, sufficiently chagrined with their day's exploit. In the mean time, the people that were left on board had loaded all their guns great and small, to be prepared in case of an attack from the shore in the absence of their commander and his followers: but all things remaining quiet, the captain returned on board, and with him his associate king Oree, who brought with him a hog for dinner ready dressed.
22. The inhabitants still continuing to trade, and the launch and boats to bring in wood and water, the captain gave orders to put to sea, the quantity of water being already compleat, and the wood though short, not easily to be recruited.
23. King Oree came on board, and after mutual presents had been exchanged, and many demonstrations of affection and friendship shewn on the part of his majesty, he took his leave, weeping as if he had been parting from his kingdom. Such is the disposition of those people, who, whether real or counterfeit, have a forcible way of expressing sorrow, which never fails to make a suitable impression. But, while the chiefs were with some reluctance dispatched, it was not so easy a task to clear the ship from the impertinences of the women; they all wanted presents before they departed, and when they were driven up one hatchway they ran down another, crying and bellowing as if nothing but ruin attended their return to shore. It is not impossible, indeed, but that if they returned empty handed, they might meet with a cool reception from their old friends and connections, and that the fear of being despised for not making a better market might induce them to be so incorrigibly troublesome: however, when things came to the last extremity, and they saw the ship unmoored, and the sails spread, they betook themselves quietly to their canoes, though they afterwards made a terrible bellowing as they rowed away.
24. They arrived at Ulietea without any thing remarkable intervening, except that Mara, the gunner's mate, who had been laid in irons for endeavouring to make his escape on shore at the ship's departure from Ottaheite, was released from his irons, and made prisoner at large, with a sentinel to attend him; but on his arrival in port he was again put in irons.
25. The captain went ashore and visited the king and royal family. The queen, upon seeing him, instanly fell into a fit of phrensy, striking herself with a shark's tooth till the blood run from her in streams. It is the custom to do this both when they rejoice, and when they mean to express grief. It was the sudden transport of joy that impelled her on this occasion; and she received the captain, after the blood was done away, with open arms. After a short stay, which exhibited a scene of mutual caresses, the captain returned on board with the queen, and a beautiful young princess, her daughter, in company. They were scarce on board when all the young girls in the bay were ready to enter, and it was absolutely necessary to keep out the men to avoid confusion.
26. The trade commenced very briskly; but nothing was called for so eagerly as red feathers; so that the captain found it necessary to order the men abaft, and to forbid them to traffic with red feathers, as it spoiled the provision trade. This day some bars of iron were taken from the hold for the armourer's use, and some tons of stone-ballast stowed in the hold in their room. Some fire-works were also this day displayed for the entertainment of the queen and royal family. Mr. Foster was now indefatigable in his researches after the natural productions of the country; and in this island he was permitted to range without fear or molestation wherever any thing that attracted his notice was to be found.
27. This day the coopers being ordered on shore to clean and repair some leaky water-casks, one of them lost his adze, which was stolen from him while he was at dinner; and as he never was able to recover it, he was punished with twelve lashes for his neglect.
28. The gentlemen were invited by the king to be present at a play. Their plays consist of three distinct modes of action; music, dancing, and farce. Their music is but mean, except their singing, which is plaintive and sweet; their dancing inimitable; and their farce not inferior or unlike to the drolls at Bartholomew-Fair. In short, they are more laughable than the gentlemen expected, who returned not displeased with their day's diversion, nor unaffected with the charms of some of the performers, who were the king's daughters, and decorated with flowers and ornaments so prettily interwoven with their hair, as to add a grace to their natural beauty that was quite irresistible. Nothing could deform them but the distorted mouths they are taught to make in varying the attitudes of their war dances, which are so inimitably ugly that none of the sailors, some of whom are excellent mimicks, could copy them.
29. The pinnace and large cutter being moored every night at the buoy, as soon as it was light it was discovered that the rudders and tillers of both vessels were wanting. Word being brought on board of this theft, the captain ordered the coxswain of the pinnace in irons for his carelessness, and instantly went on shore to recover the loss: upon farther enquiry he was told, that the boat's grapnel was gone, as was likewise the boat hook. On complaint to the king, his majesty assisted the captain in the discovery of the thieves, and, after diligent enquiry, found out the person who had stolen the grapnels, and recovered them, as they likewise did the persons who had taken the rudders; but one of them was found split to get at the iron-work, and the other was returned without injury. The tiller of the pinnace and the boat's hook never were heard of; but in the room of them a large hog was brought, together with an immense heap of bread fruit. About six the coxswain was released from his irons, as it was not in the power of man to guard against all the stratagems of the natives to steal iron.
30. The pinnace and launch went to the south side of the island with the gentlemen on board, to pay a visit to the friends of the Indian who had been to the southward, and to restore him again in safety to their care. The captain was cautious of taking him to England, as he was not certain that any British ship would again be sent to visit the island, and he was unwilling to confine him in Europe.
31. Nothing remarkable.
June 1. The powder was taken on shore to air, and 22 hogs were brought on board which had been purchased up the country.
2. A report was spread that Mr. Banks and capt. Furneaux, commander of the Adventure, were arrived at Ulietea in two different ships. This gave great joy to the inhabitants, who believed it; but it happened to prove the lie of the day to please the inhabitants, of whom those two gentlemen were remarkable favourites.
3. In return for their plays the captain entertained the royal family with a display of fire-works, played off from a little isle about 100 yards from the shore, where they had the happiest effect imaginable, and were beheld with the greatest admiration by the inhabitants for many miles up the country.
4. Preparations were this day made for putting to sea, and in the afternoon a breeze springing up fair, after taking leave of the royal family, and leaving them all in tears; and after entrusting a letter with Obidee to be given to Captain Furneaux, if he should happen to touch at that island, they weighed anchor, and set sail. The number of hogs which were purchased was greater than they could find room for alive; they therefore ventured to kill some of them to salt, but they proved very indifferent meat.
5. A fine breeze at E. by N. they bore away W. half N. At eight in the morning altered their course W. by N. The prisoner Mara, being now out of danger of an escape, was called upon the quarter-deck, when after a proper admonition, he was released, and ordered to do duty as usual. At twelve came in sight of a small island bearing N. N. W. distance about five leagues. At noon directed their course West. At eight in the evening hove to.
6. They directed their course W. S. W. Wind at N. E. At six steered W. by N. Saw several tropic birds, and some land birds. At half after ten saw a small low island bearing W. half S. full of cocoa-nuts, but surrounded with a reef. At noon course W. by S. At six in the afternoon course W. S. W. At night hove to.
7. At five wore ship and pursued their course W. S. W. At night hove to.
8. At five wore ship, and steered W. by S. Wind N. N. W. At four in the afternoon hooked a shark, and fired several musket-shot into him, notwithstanding which he broke the line and escaped. Continued their course the whole day, and at ten at night hove to.
9. The same course continued.
10. In the morning course as before. Lat. at noon 17 deg. 34 min. S. Course altered to S. W.
11. Last course continued. Lat. at noon by observation 17 deg. 56 min. This day the captain ordered the corned pork to be examined, and it not appearing to take the salt, it was dealt out to the ship's company at the rate of one pound per man a-day as long as it lasted.
12. Course continued. Lat. at noon 18 deg. 11 min.
13. Course W. by S. Wind E. S. E. Lat. at noon 18 deg. 16 min. Course continued.
14. Course continued. This day bread was served to the ship's company, the bread-fruit purchased at the islands being expended. In their course they saw two tropic birds, and five man of war birds, several bonettoes, albicroes, and flying-fish.
15. This day the wind veering W. by S. they changed their course, steering S. and S. by W. in the morning. At eight tacked, and stood to the Northward. Latitude at noon 18 deg. 7 min.
16. A light breeze at S. by E. Course W. by S. At seven saw land from the mast head bearing N. N. E. Saw several dolphins and bonettoes, and catched three sharks. Lat. at noon 18 deg. 6 min. long. 168 deg. 36 min. E. At one, being pretty near up with the land, discovered seven small islands full of cocoanut trees, surrounded with a reef, but saw no sign of any inhabitants; the whole circumference they computed to be about eight leagues. Finding no entrance for ship or boat they pursued their course W. by S.
17. Wind S. E. by S. Course W. S. W. all night.
18. Course continued.
19. Course continued. Latitude at noon 18 deg. 20 min.
20. Wind variable. Latitude at noon 18 deg. 46 min. Hauled up S. S. W. thinking they saw land, bearing S. by W. half W. but proved to be a heavy cloud. At half after one bore away W. S. W. as before. Wind E. by S. a fresh gale. At two saw land bearing W. S. W. At five hauled up S. by E. thinking they saw another island. Shortened sail, and lay off and on all night.
22. They continued their course S. W. by W. and at noon were in lat. 19 deg. 26 min. Nothing worth relating intervening.
23. Course continued. Lat. at noon 19 deg. 53 min. Course in the afternoon W. S. W.
24. In the morning course as before. At eight steered W. by S. and in the afternoon W. N. W. Lat. at noon 20 deg. 14 min. S.
25. Bore away W. by S. At three hauled to the eastward, in hopes of land. At five tacked and stood to the N. W. At half past five saw land from beam to beam. Course W. by S. It proved a cluster of islands, some very large, and others small.
26. They directed their course for the longest isle. Several canoes came from the isles indiscriminately, and brought plantains, bread-fruit, yams and fish. The people appeared in every respect like the Amsterdamers. At noon they cast anchor on the north side of the island, about half a mile from the shore in 21 fathom water, red sand, broken shells, and small stones; and presently hoisted out the large cutter, and steadied the ship for the convenience of trade. This afternoon one of the natives got hold of the lead-line, and was making with it towards the shore; but being discovered, was shot at, brought back, and the line restored. Shaddocks, and yams were brought in plenty.
28. The morning being clear, they discerned from the mast-head two large islands to the northward, at the distance of 16 or 17 leagues. About ten they appeared as represented in the plate. The low island the Indians called Tassua; and the peeked island, they called Eka-u-u. At six the launch was sent for water—when she landed the natives came about her in swarms, and one of them seized a cartouch-box full of ammunition; others wrested the second lieutenant's fowling-piece from him; and others seized the cooper's bucket, with his adze and a quantity of bungs in it, and instantly made off. The boats crew fired at them, and they dropped the bucket; but kept the adze, the fowling-piece, and the cartouch-box. They seemed, indeed, in less dread of fire-arms than any of the savages they had yet met with; for the fellow who took the cartouch-box, seized the nozzle of the gun which the soldier was about to point at him, directed it from him, and by that means got clear off with his booty. As the likeliest means to oblige them to restore their plunder, the captain caused a large sailing canoe to be seized, to which they made some opposition. On the approach of the party commanded on that service, of which the captain himself was the leader, the savages, all but one man jumped over-board, but it was not till the vessel was hauled upon the beach that he could be prevailed upon to quit his property; and when he did, he made towards the captain, armed with a desperate weapon, which he brandished with one hand over his head, and with the other clapt his breech. It was in vain that signs were made him to lay it down, but the captain presenting his piece at him, he then, being in some fear, dropped it on the ground; but the instant the piece was taken from the captain's shoulder, that instant he snatched up his weapon and advanced as before. The captain was now in his own defence obliged to fire, but being unwilling to kill so brave a fellow, took aim where he could least injure him, and shot him in the thighs. The gun was loaded with swan shot, one of which pierced the very hand with which he was denouncing defiance; he then ran howling to the woods; and presently five or six of his companions came with him upon their backs, and seemed to supplicate relief. The surgeon very humanely dressed his wounds, applying to them a remedy he had learned among the Indians of scraped sugar-cane spread upon a certain leaf. After this rencounter they seemed very peaceable, and soon restored the fowling-pieces and adze. The water being bad, the captain, unwilling to lose time, ordered the boats to be hoisted in, and the ship to set sail. This island, our journalist says, was called by the natives Anamocka; the same to which Tasman gave the name of Rotterdam, and where he received quite different treatment.
29. They directed their course to the large islands which they had descried the day before, and kept on sounding all the way from 60 to 39 fathom water. The natives followed the ship all day with provisions to trade.
30. About one in the afternoon they approached the islands. On the lowest and westernmost of the two they observed a continual smoke issuing from a hill, the eastermost end of which gave them reason to think that a burning mountain subsisted somewhere in that direction, and it was not long before they were convinced of the truth of their conjecture. When at the distance of three leagues, the ship's course N. W. by W. the two islands appeared as represented in the Plate. Long. at noon 19 deg. 55 min. About five in the afternoon they were in full sail between the islands, the lowest of which the Indians who followed the ship to trade called Tussua. It appeared in some places so burnt that they could plainly discover from the ship by the appearance of trees how far the conflagration had reached. As soon as they were to leeward of the burning mountain, though it was not just then raging, the people could perceive by the smart of their eyes when they looked to windward, that the very air was impregnated with sulphurous atoms. At night shortened sail, and hove too.
July 1. Pursued their course, without attempting to land, though no reason is given by our journalist for so doing. At five in the morning course W. S. W. with the wind from E. S. E. This course was continued the whole day and all the following night.
2. Course in the morning as before. At half after eleven discovered land, bearing about W. by N. half N. and bore away towards it, steering to N. W. Lat. at noon 20 deg. 6 min. It appeared to be full of trees; but when they came up with it found it, reefed all round. Stood off and on all night, and in the morning sent the large cutter to sound and examine the shore. On her return the officer on board reported that no anchorage was practicable; and after examining the coast for a considerable way, and attempting in vain to get some turtle, of which by several symptoms, there was reason to suppose there were many about the island, they made sail and pursued their course. On this island they saw several natives, but none came on board.
3. There being a light breeze from E. N. E. they bore away steering S W. by W. Lat. at noon 19 deg. 37 min.
4. Bore away S. W. by S. At noon steered S. W. by W. At seven in the evening shortened sail, and steered S. S. W. all night.
5. Steered W. S. W. At six in the evening shortened sail. At seven hauled up S. S. E. Wind at east. Tacked every two hours all night.
6. At five in the morning bore away W. S. W. At noon course W. by S. Lat. 20 deg. 40 min.
7. In the morning the course continued. Lat. at noon 20 deg. 46 min. This day struck the fore-top-mast, the trussel-trees being sprung. Steered right before the wind to keep the ship steady. Wind E. N. E. to E. by South. Course West.
8. Course the same. Lat. at noon 20 deg. 31 min. S. Course W. by N.
9. Course West. Lat. at noon 20 deg. 26 min. Squally weather attended with rain. At three in the afternoon back ship and stood to the Northward. At six stiff breezes. Wind S. S. W. Course W. by N. Tacked every two hours all night.
10. At five in the morning bore away N. W. and continued the same course all day. At
the two large islands that formed the strait, and kept tacking every two hours the whole night.
20. In the morning they could perceive that they had gained considerably in the night, owing to the current which set to the windward. At eight they could see four islands, very high and very extensive. At ten they were close under the South end of the largest island, where they saw multitudes of the inhabitants, who lined the rocks, bellowing and howling; and saw also many smokes within land. At eleven they came in sight of a large and high island from the mast head, lying to windward.
21. Tacked, and stood for the high island. At ten they came in sight of two other large isles, on one of which was a burning mountain. About twelve, being near one of those isles, great numbers of savages presented themselves, armed with clubs, spears, and bows and arrows. At one tacked, and stood in for a pleasant bay that presented itself in the isle which lies at the West end of that on which the burning mountain was situated. At four hove to, and hoisted out the boats, armed them, and sent them in to sound; at four they made the signal of anchorage, and at five the ship came to an anchor in nine fathom water, fine sandy bottom. The ship was scarce moored before the natives came off in their canoes from the East side of the bay, and many swam from the West side; the distance not above a quarter of a mile. They were of the negroe kind, quite black, and woolly headed, poor mean despicable looking wretches, but armed with bows and poisoned arrows, with every one a club made of hard wood slung over his shoulders. They were quite naked, except a girdle, or piece of matting, tied round the waist, and drawn so tight that it was with difficulty that a finger could be thrust between it and the skin: they wear, besides, on one wrist a piece of wood or bone, so nicely jointed that it is not easy to discover the seam: this too was pressed so tight that many imagined it must have been put on when they were very young, and that the wrist had grown up to it; for, being curiously embossed, it was at first thought to be one piece, and nobody suspected to find a joint. Some of them were marked on their bodies, but very different from any they had before seen; for, instead of being smooth, and seemingly indented within the skin, their marks appeared rough and raised above it. As soon as they approached the ship, or came near any of the crew, they sprinkled water over their heads, patted their heads with their open hands, crying Towmarrow, Towmarrow; but offering no kind of rudeness, nor misbehaviour of any kind. They kept about the ship, with lights, after it was dark, and when they had sufficiently gratified their curiosity, they went quietly away. Their boats were of a form very different from any they had besore seen, being raised higher in the middle than at either end.
22. Great numbers of them came about the ship, and some came on board. At first they shewed no disposition to mischief, but leaped about, and admired every thing they saw. Being unwilling, however, to go away, and many of them pressing to be admitted at once, it was found necessary to oppose their attempts, which brought on a quarrel, and several of them let fly their arrows from their canoes, against which the crew were upon their guard, as suspecting their intent. The marines were then ordered to fire, and in a short time the ship was cleared from such unwelcome visitors. One of the fellows, however, in going off let fly an arrow, as was supposed, against one of the officers; but he paid for his audacity with his life. In the afternoon the captain ordered out the pinnace, and with a party of marines, well armed, went on shore. The natives on seeing them land made a halt, and stood quite still. The captain, willing to make friends with them, shewed them some articles of European manufacture, and some of Indian; and made signs for them to lay aside their weapons, and sit down, which they obeyed. He then went up to them, and presented their chief with a few trifles, with which he seemed very much pleased; he next acquainted them that the ship was in want of water, but they either did not, or would not understand him; and seeing there was none to be gotten without bloodshed, nor any wood to be had but what was as hard as brazil, the captain returned on board, and prepared to sail. None of these people brought either flesh or fruit to dispose of; nor could the captain procure more than one lean hog, though there were many within sight. Those who were of the wooding party saw several of their women, who, they reported, were ten times uglier than the men. The fellows who first entered the ship were earnest with the sailors to expose themselves, but being refused with the true spirit of British tars, their resentment was first excited by the manner in which they were repulsed: they continued, however, peaceable the remainder of the time the ship staid, and the gentlemen and fishers pursued their fishing without molestation. At ten they catched a shark about twelve feet long: in hauling him near the boat, he gave a sudden plunge, and, seizing the stem in his mouth, left two of his teeth buried in the wood, and it was with the utmost danger and difficulty that five of the boat's crew could get the better of him. In dissecting his head for one of the gentlemen to preserve his jawbones, three inches of an Indian arrow was found buried in his brains.
23. Weighed and got clear out of the bay by towing, the Indians following in their canoes. Several of the gentlemen fell sick, as supposed, by eating the large red ground fish which they had caught in the bay: they were strengthened in this opinion by the dogs being taken ill that had eaten the fragments; and one of the hogs that had taken what the dogs brought up, actually died; being opened, the liver and intestines were turned quite black. Though the people had no notion of trade, yet several of the sailors prevailed on some of them to part with their bows and arrows, which they exchanged for beads and other trifles; but their spears nothing that was offered them could purchase. From the circumstances of the gentlemens falling sick, and the natives using poisoned arrows, the captain named this bay Venomous-Bay.
24. At six made sail. At nine saw four unknown islands, surrounded with a reef. A number of small islands in sight the whole day. Tacked every two or three hours the following night.
25. Still sailing among a cluster of islands. The gentlemen still sick.
26. This morning there were thirteen or fourteen islands in sight. They directed their course S. E. by E. the easternmost land bearing S. E. They could see from the decks the natives of several isles running along the beaches to look at the ship. At noon they changed their direction to S. E. half S. and at night they kept tacking every two hours.
27. Came in sight of four new islands, of which none had been noticed before. Lat. at noon 18 deg. 20 min. Course as before.
28. At six in the morning tacked, and stood in for the land. At noon tacked, and stood to the Eastward for two or three strange islands that appeared at a great distance. Latitude 18 deg. 29 min. At four tacked, and stood to the Westward. Saw land bearing South. The gentlemen who had been poisoned with the fish pretty well recovered.
30. Saw more islands almost in every direction. They were now in what is called in our maps the Archipelago of the Great Cyclades, and of which till now we have had a very vague account.
31. This day they caught two large sharks, one of which had five small turtle in his belly, one eighteen inches long and twelve broad; the other had three or four bonettas of considerable size.
August 1. Bore away S. by W. round the North West end of an island about four or five leagues to the windward. At four in the afternoon saw several of the natives, who appeared in every respect the same as the savages in Venomous-bay. They made signs for the voyagers to land, by waving green boughs, the emblems of peace, and some of them jumped into the water, and made for the ship; but the ship making way, they were soon distanced.
2. About nine in the morning they sent the cutter in shore to examine the ground, but she soon returned without finding anchorage. They then bore away to the North Eastward to an island they had already passed.
3. At six brought to an anchor in 10 fathom water, rocky ground. Great numbers of the natives came swimming towards the ship; but on the boats being hoisted out, they all made to land again. Their yellings were different from any they had yet heard.
4. Early in the morning the pinnace and large cutter went off to examine the coast, and to endeavour to find out a convenient place to wood and water. At half past seven those on board the ship were alarmed by a continual firing from the boats on the shore, and immediately fired a swivel gun loaded with grape-shot, and sent the small cutter well manned and armed to the assistance of the boats already engaged; at the same time continuing to fire from the ship with grape-shot. Soon after this the boats returned, and brought word, that they had scarce touched the ground when the savages attacked them, and wanted to haul the boats into the woods; that one of the boatswain's mates was unfortunately run through the cheek with a spear, which they threw from the land; that one of the sailors was likewise wounded in the thigh in two places by a like weapon; that the master, who commanded on this occasion, was also wounded in the breast with an arrow, the point of which very fortunately broke in piercing his cloaths, otherwise it must have penetrated to his heart; and that some others had received very desperate blows before their guns could be made use of; that, in return, they had killed several of the savages, and had wounded many more; and that by means of the succours that had been sent them, and the firing from the ship, they had at length cleared the coast of them. This conflict was continued for more than an hour, in which time showers of arrows, spears, and stones came from the bushes, and flew over and between the people in the boats, but providentially no other hurt was received except what we have already related: many more, however, of the enemy would have been killed, but that the flints were so bad the powder would not take fire. Of the flints the complaint was general throughout the voyage, though it is not easy to account for such a defect, as the flints contracted for by government are the best that can be procured. As soon as the boats returned the ship prepared to sail, being told that no water was to be found in that bay, though it seemed to abound with every thing else. At ten they fired a round shot among the savages that shewed themselves upon the shore, and stood out of the bay in search of a more hospitable people. At night they observed a great body of fire, which issued from the burning mountain already mentioned, from whence they were not now at any considerable distance.
5. Stood in for the island, on which they had observed the burning mountain, and near which they had before landed, as has already been related. The bay they now discovered was situated at the S. S. W. part of the island, where the boats were sent out to reconnoitre, and presently brought word that there was safe anchorage in four fathom and a half water, that there was plenty of fresh water on shore, and that there was great appearance of plenty of every thing else that was wanted, particularly of wood and fruit. This bay lay in and out N. N. E. and S. S. W. the burning hill bearing west half north. They had scarce cast anchor, when several of the natives came off with cocoa-nuts, yams, bannanoes, plantains, &c. and one, an old man, brought on board one fowl, which he presented to the captain. Those who brought the fruit were afraid to approach the ship, on which the captain ordered the small cutter to be manned, and to row towards them; but even this seemed to terrify them. They made off from the boat, but threw some cocoa-nuts into it, for which they did not seem to expect any reward. Here we cannot help remarking, that, by the savages bringing every where, upon the approach of the ship, cocoa-nuts, and other fruits, it should seem that they imagined the strangers to be a people like themselves, come from some distant island to visit them; and that therefore, it being usual for such visitors to be in want of such refreshments, it might be the custom for the inhabitants upon their first coming, to supply them; but that when they saw a people totally unlike themselves, and in a vessel too different from any they had ever before seen, it was but natural for them to retreat, not knowing their errand, and dreading perhaps an invasion, or some mischief to befall their country. Something of this kind must certainly have been the case, otherwise it is not easy to account for their coming off in their canoes loaded with fruit, and then retiring back without daring to go near the people they intended to supply. Be this as it may, it was not long before great numbers of them came about the ship, armed with the same weapons as the inhabitants about Venomous-Bay made use of when the ship anchored there. There being now about 40 canoes gathered round the ship, they first began by endeavouring to cut away the buoy; but a few musket-balls being whistled about their ears, presently obliged them to desert that enterprize. They then began their war song, the certain signal to engage. To intimidate them, and to prevent the effusion of blood, a four pounder was fired over their heads; at which they all jumped into the sea, and made towards the shore; but recovering themselves, and finding that no one had received any hurt, they again boarded their canoes, and advanced as before. It was then thought necessary to fire to effect, and two or three of their canoes being disabled by one shot, the rest fled hastily to shore; the boats followed, and in sight of thousands of them filled some casks of water, and returned to the ship.
6. The boats were ordered to land as before; but previously to that attempt, the captain ordered a spring upon the cable to keep the ship's broad-side to the shore, to cover the waterers; and went himself in the pinnace to make peace with the natives. Finding them, however, drawn up in two separate bodies, all armed and prepared for war, he caused a musket to be fired over their heads, and made the signal for them to lay down their arms, which they refused to do, with menaces if he dared to land. On this defiance, the signal was made for the ship to fire, which was instantly obeyed with great guns, swivels, and wall-pieces, loaded with grape-shot, which in less than a minute so cleared the shore of them, that only two of them remained, one of whom was the old man who the day before had presented the captain with a fowl. About one the boats returned to the ship loaded with water, cocoa-nuts, and plantains, which, after they had felt the effects of the ship's superiority, they brought in great abundance to the water's edge, laying them down, and running away without waiting for any thing in exchange.
7. After what had passed on the 6th, the natives, to all appearance, assumed a new aspect: they came and laid down their arms, and seemed to supplicate for peace, which was readily granted on the part of the voyagers; and lines were marked out, over which they were not to pass. Peace being thus far established, the natives came down unarmed, and brought with them watever the island afforded; for which they received in return such articles of trade as they liked best. The fishers now began to fish without fear, and at three hauls of the seine, they caught above 500 mullet, many of them weighing 10 lb. a-fish. The old Indian came frequently on board, and the captain used him with great civility. It was soon discovered, that the body of Indians who intended to attack the ship were not the inhabitants about the bay, but people from another quarter, who finding themselves unequal to the undertaking, dispersed and retired every one to his own home. It was, however, thought prudent to be constantly on guard.
7. The boats went as usual for wood and water; and this day the captain's markee was set up on snore, the natives behaving with the utmost humility and respect.
During the whole time of their stay the volcano roared in a most terrifying manner, sometimes emitting whole torrents of flame and smoke that ascended above the clouds; and sometimes stones of such an enourmous size as to be equal in bulk to the ship's pinnace, which were thrown like pebbles to an incredible distance. The convulsions wherewith it was agitated before these vast bodies were ejected, seemed to shake the foundations of the island; and though the place where the ship lay was more than twelve miles distant, yet the ashes, when the wind blew a breeze from the westward, would cover the decks like dust.
The natives of this island are very black, but make themselves still blacker than they are by nature, by painting their faces of a shining jet, interspersed with red and white spots on their noses and foreheads. Between their nostrils they bore holes, which they keep open with a short stick. They go naked, except a sort of broad girdle round their waists, in which the men tie up in a very singular manner their marks of manhood, which by their way of dressing, appear of uncommmon magnitude: in this consists their pride. Their hair, which is not woolly, they tie differently, as each likes best: some let it flow down their shoulders; others tie it up in folds about their heads: others again twist it, and let it hang in plaits; while not a few of them cut it short, or, as we say, crop it. They hoop and whistle to call a number of them together, when they intend mischief; and when they apprehend danger, they hide themselves in the covert of the woods.
Their women are in general passable when young, but frightful when they grow old. On their heads they wear a kind of bonnet, not inelegantly matted, and round their waists a short petticoat which reaches to their knees; this too is made of a kind of matting, for no cloth was seen among them: they paint themselves variously as well as the men, but their favourite colour is red. The men seemed very jealous of them, and never suffered any of them to appear alone. They generally kept behind the men; and most of those that were of age had a child, or a bundle upon their backs: they, notwithstanding, were always merry, either shouting or laughing.
Like almost all the other islanders they were fond of working tools, and that induced them to watch an opportunity to steal the cooper's adze; which being missed, another fray commenced, and one of the savages bent his bow to shoot at the man who was pursuing the thieves; but not being quick enough in taking aim, the man shot him dead with the bow in his hand. The old Indian, however, who has often been mentioned, recovered the adze, and returned it to the cooper.
Here the water being very conveniently situated, not above 30 or 40 yards from the shore, the casks were filled almost as soon as they could be cleaned and repaired; and there being plenty of wood, these two necessary articles were fully compleated; and the boats, before the other repairs could be accomplished, had time to recruit the ballast, in proportion as the ship's stores were expended. During the ship's stay, the people were plentifully supplied with fish and fruit; but of pork, or other animal food, there was little to be procured.
It is not a little remarkable, that the natives of this island were more scrupulous in taking any thing from the sailors than those of any other nation, and never would touch with their bare hands what was given them, but always received it between green leaves, which they afterwards tied up, and carried upon the ends of their clubs; and if ever any of the sailors touched their skin, they always rubbed the part with the like green leaf. Our journalist observes, that, notwithstanding this false delicacy, they gave the sailors to understand, that they eat one another; and one day when the inhabitants about the bay were in motion, and many of them marched forth armed to some distant part of the island, those that remained invited the gentlemen to feast upon a man that they had barbiqued; which they refused with the utmost disgust.
When these people make a wonder at any thing, they cry Hebow, and shake their right hand. They wear bracelets, like as the Indians of Venomous-bay, in which they stick their hair-pricker, (an instrument which they use to dress their heads) and likewise the slings with which they throw their javelins; and it is astonishing with what dexterity and force some of them will hit a mark. One of them, to shew the commanding officer on shore what he could do, threw his spear without his sling through the bole of a three four inches in diameter, at 20 yards distance: another of them in the presence of the first lieutenant shot a fish as it swam along in the sea at the distance of 26 yards, with a bow and arrow, which fish the lieutenant carried on board with the arrow sticking in its body, as a proof of what he had seen performed.
Some of the gentlemen, one clear day, attempted to ascend a hill at some distance, with intent to view the volcano more clearly, but were obliged to retire precipitately, the ground under them being so hot that they might as well have walked upon a hot oven: the smell too was intolerably sulphureous, which proceeded from a smoke that issued through the fissures of the earth; yet from this smoke the natives find a remedy for their cutaneous disorders. The gentlemen observing a man holding a child over the smoke, had the curiosity to enquire the reason, who made them understand, by shewing the child's eruptions, that it was troubled with the itch.
While the people were employed in searching for ballast, they discovered water issuing from the crevices of a rock, hot enough to draw tea. Two of the ship's company who had been troubled with rheumatic complaints, at times, throughout the voyage, went accompanied with the surgeon to bathe in the water, but found the stones so hot underneath that they could not stand upon them, without first plunging in some of their cold garments to keep the soles of their feet from touching them. In one place the waters were so hot there was no bearing the finger in them: in another they were just hot enough to bear to plunge the whole body, but not to remain any considerable time. What effect these waters had upon the two men our journalist has not noted; from that circumstance, as he has been all along very particular in noting the illnesses that happened on board, and the recoveries, there is reason to conclude that the waters had but little effect.
Having been already ten days employed in repairing the ship, taking in wood and water, and purchasing fruits, the natives began again to grow troublesome, watching every opportunity to level their arrows at the guard, and restrained only by the fear of their muskets from proceeding to extremities. It is more than probable, however, that an act of violence on the part of the strangers that cannot well be justified, might give occasion to this rancorous humour among the natives. Having occasion for some large timber to supply the decays of the ship, orders were given a few days before their intended departure to cut down a tree of vast growth, and for the convenience of getting it on board to saw it into three pieces. This tree so divided, the natives eyed with pleasure, not suspecting that the strangers intended to carry it off, but to leave it in compliment to them, as it suited exactly their ideas of constructing just double the number of canoes. To the cutting down and sawing the natives made no opposition; but when they saw the sailors employed in rolling down the body of the tree to the water's edge, they could not help looking surly; and one of them, who probably was more interested than the rest, was frequently seen to offer his spear at the labourers, but was restrained for fear of the guard: at length he watched his opportunity, and, starting from behind a bush, was levelling an arrow full at the commanding officer, when he was discovered, and shot dead. The ball tore his arm to pieces, and entered his side. His companions instantly carried off the body, and laid it in the wood, where the ship's surgeon went to examine it, but found it totally deprived of life.
The ship's company were now permitted to go ashore by turns, for the preservation of their health; but the captain knowing the natives wanted nothing so much as an opportunity to revenge the death of their companions, strictly enjoined them never to walk alone; nor to stray more than an hundred yards from the guard.
In the mean time preparations were making on board to set sail; the ship was smoak'd above and below, the hold fresh stow'd, and the ballast shifted; in short, every thing was placed in such order, as if the ship had been but just fitted out at home for a long voyage.
Though the people on this island, after feeling the effects of the European fire-arms, were peaceable, they were not friendly, nor were they, like the Indians in the Society-Isles, fond of iron; they wished for some of the tools with which they saw the sailors cut down wood; but except an adze or two, they never attempted to steal any thing. The coopers left their casks during the night unguarded, nor were they under any apprehensions about their cloaths, which they suffered to lie carelessly about while they were at work. These people discovered none of that disposition to thievery which our voyagers say every Indian inherits naturally. In their course of trade, they totally disregard beads, and baubles, and seemed to prefer Rotterdam fish-hooks, and turtle-shell, to every thing else that was offered them. They suffered the sailors to have no communication with their women; nor were they easily persuaded to part with their arms on any account. The produce of the island they freely parted with; but on whatever required labour in the construction, they set a high value.
The islands which compose this Archipelago, are not easily numbered: Our journalist counted upwards of seventy in sight at one time; they seem to be inhabited by people of very different natures and complexions. Some our voyagers saw woolly headed, and of the African race; others of a copper colour, not unlike the New-Zealanders; and others they saw of the mulatto colour; and not a few like the natives of Rotterdam, of a brownish black, with long hair and shorn beards. The high notions, however, that were entertained of the vast riches of these islands; of their abounding in pearls, silver ore, and precious stones, do not seem well founded; neither does the island of Menicola answer, by any means, the pompous description given of it by the Spanish writers, who found their report on the relation of an Indian-Chief, and on that of a captive, whom Quiros seized and carried to Mexico. From the former Quiros learned, that to the N. W. of his country, (Taumaco) there were more than sixty islands, and a large country, which he called Manicola; that, to explain which were small, he made circles, and pointed to the sea with his finger, and made signs that it surrounded the land; and for the larger he made large circles, and the same signs; and for that large country he opened both his arms, without joining them again, shewing that it extended without end; and by signs he shewed which people were whites, negroes, Indians, and Mulattoes, and which were mixed; and that in some islands they eat human flesh; and for this he made signs by biting his arm, shewing clearly his abhorrence of such people. He likewise gave him to understand, that in the great country, there were cows or buffaloes.
From the captive, Quiros learnt that in some of those islands, there were pearls, as large as small pebbles; that the pearls were white and shining; and that when they looked at them against the sun, the shining lustre dazzled their eyes; that at five days of their sailing from a country which he named, lay that great country Manicola, inhabited by many people, duncoloured, and Mulattoes, who lived in large towns; that the country was high and mountainous, with many large rivers; that he with many others had gone to it in one of their embarkations in quest of the trunk of a large tree of the many that are in it to make a periagua; and that he saw there a port larger, and the entrance narrower than that of the bay of St. Philip and St. Jago; and that the bottom was sand, and the shore shingle; he added, that they had warlike instruments, pointed with silver. This captive, after he had learnt the Spanish languages, confirmed what he had said of the great country, and what the Chief had said of the many islands, and of the different nations, with which they were peopled; some lusty, with bodies punctuated; and others without punctuation, of various colours, long hair, red black, curled, and woolly-headed; and being shewn some stones impregnated with silver, he said in the great country he had seen such stones and likewise at Taumaco, where the natives used some to punctuate themselves, and others for ornament.
From these intimations, (for we can find no other) Mr. Dalrymple infers, that if Quiros had stood to the southward,
"that course would have
undoubtedly
discovered to him the great southern continent, or as Quiros emphatically expresses it,
the mother of so many islands.
"
This voyage, however, has shewn all these
questionless affirmations,
and
probable conjectures,
to be no other than mere assumptions founded on a false hypothesis. The course which Tasman pursued in 1722, joined to that which Captain Cooke has lately compleated in 1775, has
demonstrated
the
non-existence
of a southern continent, in the direction, in which Mr. Dalrymple so positively asserts Quiros might have found it; and indeed, every other direction from the line to the 50th degree of southern latitude, between which he has given it a place.
The course we are now tracing along with this able navigator, is the same we had remarked as proper for his examination in the winter of 1773, instead of sailing to the eastward; but it is with pleasure that we embrace this opportunity to disclaim the least intended censure, and to acknowledge the superiority of his judgment, as by the course he took he has left no room for conjecture, respecting the great object he had in view, in any direction whatever. Having in 1770, sailed to the southward, in long. 213 deg E. as far as the 41st degree of latitude; in 1773, he sailed eastward in that latitude, from the 175th, to the 227th degree of eastern longitude, where having found himself nearly at an equal distance from the most southerly point of his track from Ottaheite to New-Zealand in 1770, and his track in the same latitude from Cape-Horn to Ottaheite the same year, he tacked and steered to the northward, till he fell in with all the beaten tracks of former navigators, and then directed his course for Ottaheite. From Ottaheite he widened his course, and visiting Middleburg and Amsterdam islands, he sailed directly for New-Zealand; from whence, in the summer of that climate, he again took his departure, and extended his line, directing his course southward, beyond the antarctic circle, still steering a south-easterly course, till he arrived at the 265th degree of eastern longitude, where changing his direction to the northward, he again made Ottaheite his place of rendezvous, taking in his way the famous Easter-island of the Dutch, and determining the non-existence of any other land, pretended to have been seen by Davis, or Juan Fernandez, in that quarter, and visiting the Marquesas of the Spaniards, which he found tolerably laid down and described.
Having refreshed his men, and repaired his ship, at Ottaheite, the range we are describing was part of his 3d and last enterprize; in which we have already accompanied him to Anamaka, or Rotterdam Island, which he omitted to visit in his former circuit, and from thence to that great country, of which so many fine things had been said, and so many flattering conjectures credited; but with what foundation in truth the reader has already been made acquainted.
The island on which Capt. Cooke chose to refit is situated in lat. 19 deg. 30 min. S. and in long. 169 deg. 38 min. E. It is called by the natives Tanna, and the bay where the ship cast anchor Providence. Where the effects of the volcano did not reach, the island is fertile, abounding in fruits of various sorts, which grow to a vast magnitude: our journalist weighed a yam which exceeded 55 lb. and other fruits in proportion. The trees too are of an extraordinary size; but a wide circle in the interior part of the island, discovered nothing to the eye but a dreary waste, covered with cinders, and tainting the air with sulphur. Other surrounding islands looked pleasant to the eye; but, according to the report of the natives of Tanna, abounded in nothing of which they themselves were in want.
Early on the 20th of August, the captain gave orders to weigh anchor, and about ten in the morning made sail to the S. S. W. with the wind at S. S. E.
21. Tacked, and stood to the southward. At eleven the volcano bore N. W. by W. distance eight or nine leagues; and the West point of Tanna bore W. by N. half N. distance four or five leagues. Course round the South point of the isle W. half N. This part of the island looked exceeding beautiful, as if cultivated from the tops of the highest hills to the lowest vallies. At six in the evening saw land bearing N. W. by W. and steered in that direction.
22. Came a-breast of the isle called Harramango, where the quarrel happened in which a multitude of the inhabitants were killed, and where some of the ship's company were wounded, as has been already related. Made sail to the N. W. by N. and about eleven came in sight of another island, very large and very pleasant, which happened to be an island they had passed before, and which they had distinguished by the name of Lord Sandwich's Island.
23. Came in sight of the famous isle of Monicolo, and sailed along shore N. W. and N. W. by N. It has a most beautiful appearance, full of plantations, and all of them well fenced. They were frequently so close to shore that they could hear the natives hollow to them. Being arrived nearly at the West end, they discovered a passage (the same they had passed before two days after they had discovered these islands); and night approaching, they shortened sail, and lay to. In the night many fires were seen on the island of Manicôlo.
24. Course N. N. W. through the strait. The land to the westward seemed to be of great extent, and very delightful. At four in the afternoon saw another isle, bearing N. half W. Tacked, and stood to the S. E.
25. Tacked, and steered to the N. W. Saw much land to the W. and S. W. At eleven entered a large deep bay; hauled up W. and W. S. W. The land at each extremity of this bay is very high: our journalist has named it the bay of St. Philip and St. James, discovered by Mindana in 1595. In this bay the Spaniards made a settlement, and laid the foundations of a city, to which they gave the name of New Jerusalem; and to the two rivers between which it was situated they gave the names of Jordan and Salvador.
26. There being a fine breeze from the S. S. W. they stood pretty well into the bay, the entrance to which lies N. by W. At two they hoisted out the pinnace and large cutter, armed them, and sent them to search for anchorage, in order to exchange their water taken in at Tanna, it proving very bad. While the boats were employed in examining the coast, three canoes came close by the ship, and struck their sails; but the men would not venture to come on board. The voyagers threw them some medals, cloth, and nails; the latter of which were most joyfully received. In return they offered some plants of cinnamon trees, which they had in their boats. They had likewise in their canoes long spears, headed with the tail bones of the stingray, but did not shew the least disposition to mischief. They were black and woolly-headed, (which by no means answers the description which Quiros gives of the inhabitants about the bay of St. Philip and St. James, who are, according to that voyager, of a brown complexion,) and go naked, except a belt tied tight round their waists, in like manner with the people before described. They are of the middle stature, and wear bracelets, as most of the people in these islands do, but differ in one respect, by ornamenting their heads with plumes of feathers like the inhabitants of New Zealand. About four o'clock in the afternoon the boats returned, without being able to discover a watering-place, or any safe anchorage within the bay: they saw, however, a large river, but no harbour within reach. Several of the inhabitants came in sight, but were very shy, and kept at a distance. Upon this intelligence they hoisted the boats on board, and made sail out of the bay, at the mouth of which they lay off and on all night.
27. This day they began to use the water-engine to sweeten the water taken in at Tanna, and it had a very good effect.
28. Saw great numbers of fires in the night. The wind calm, made little or no way.
29. The calm continued.
30. At eight in the morning made sail, and stood in for land. Still little wind.
31. Saw two islands to the eastward, one of which extended to a great distance. At twelve tacked, and stood to the eastward.
Sept. 1. No land in sight.
2. This day one of the petty officers was put in irons for misbehaviour.
3. The officer was released on his submission.
4. Came in sight of land, bearing about E. and S. by E. Ship's head S. S. E. About twelve saw the land more plain, large, and extensive.
5. Worked well in with the land. Seeing 20 or 30 canoes standing towards the ship, they thought it adviseable to load the great guns, and to prepare for defence, in case of opposition. About eight they hoisted out the pinnace and large cutter, and sent them forwards to examine an opening which they observed in the reef. They returned, having sound a clear passage, and very regular soundings, from eight and a half to five and a half fathoms water. At one the ship came to an anchor within half a mile of the land. In less than half an hour the ship was surrounded with the natives, mostly armed with clubs, spears, and slings, the stones of which were of the size of an egg, smooth and round as if turned in an engine: they appeared, however, very peaceable, and several were admitted on board. They were most of them, but not all, flat nosed and woolly headed; of a middling stature, and naked, except about their waists. All the islanders seen in this Archipelago are nearly naked alike, having no other clothing but a girdle, sometimes of one fabric, sometimes of another, drawn tight about their middles, and so contrived as to cover them as low as the haunches. Some of the natives here, like those of Easter-Island, have holes bored in their ears, and wear heavy ornaments in them, which draw them down to a frightful length; and some of them were punctuated with sprigs of flowers and other figures upon their breasts, arms, and legs. Their chiefs wear large black caps on their heads, and have ornaments of bone, tortoise-shell, or mother of pearl, upon their arms.
Their canoes are all double, and sail with two sails made of matting. They are built with a room across, which gives them the appearance of large floating stages, and are capable of carrying a great number of men. They are not rowed with oars or paddles as most other canoes are, but skulled along with long poles flatted at the ends, and let down through holes between the boats, and with these they guide their vessels in sailing or turning. They use straps for their spears, such as are in use among the natives of Tanna, but more curiously wrought. They seem to be a warlike people, if one may be allowed to judge from the many deep scars wherewith they are marked: but, what was remarkable, many of them appeared to be broken bellied, and not a few were blind of one eye.
As soon as the ship was properly secured, the captain and several of the gentlemen went on shore in the pinnace to establish peace with the chiefs, who all seemed very well disposed; and when they returned, they expressed their satisfaction at the manner of being received. Their houses were very different from any they had before seen, and were built in the form of beehives, with each two doors opposite one to the other, to let in the air, and let out the smoke, of which they stunk most abominably.
Their plantations are pleasant beyond description, and are chiefly cultivated by the women, who likewise have the care of the children, and carry the burdens. They are more slenderly covered in this island than in most of the others, and differ very little in that respect from the men, and like them too are mostly black and woolly-headed.
The island does not abound in variety of fruits; but the gentlemen who went up into the country reported that they saw wild-fowl in abundance, as well as tame. The captain made the chief who welcomed him on shore, and who afterwards visited him on board, a present of a sow and boar, and of some other animals, males and females, of which they had none upon the island.
6. The astronomer, with the captain and officers, went to a small isle adjoining to the main to observe an eclipse of the sun, which happened between the hours of two and three in the afternoon; and it being a clear day, they had a fine opportunity of determining the time of its duration with the utmost exactness.
Having discovered a clear stream of running water, the carpenters and others were employed in cutting down trees, and bushes, to make a rolling way to facilitate the labour of conveying the water to the sea-side. This was of infinite use, and shortened the ship's stay several days.
This day the ship's butcher died of a hurt he received by falling down the hatchway the day before. One of the Indians struck an uncommon fish with a spear, which was purchased by one of the officers, and presented to the captain as a rarity, but it had the same effect with that eaten in Venomous-Bay, and made those sick who partook of it. The hog that eat the entrails died. The gentlemen, however, soon recovered.
7. The butcher was this day buried with the usual sea solemnity.
8. Most of the people employed in watering.
9. The launch and large cutter were sent to examine the coast, and to endeavou
to find a passage for the ship, without going round the island.
10. The boats, not returning, the captain began to be in pain for their safety.
11. About eleven in the morning, the launch and large cutter were seen at a great distance, beating up to recover the ship. About four in the afternoon some of the gentlemen, who went out in the boats, and who travelled over land a considerable way, came on board, and brought an account that the large cutter had sprung a leak; and that the launch had carried away her fore-yard; that the cutter had fortunately reached the shore, and stopped her leak; and that the launch had made shift to supply her loss, by a new contrivance, which necessity had suggested; they likewise related the manner of their travelling across the country, and of the civility they received from the natives wherever they had occasion to refresh, bringing them sugar cane, and tarra-root, which the natives here call by the name of coao. In the course of their journey, they passed by several of the burying places of their dead, which were equal in neatness and regularity to those in the Society-isles. In their plantations there were several low cocoa-nut-trees, as if but lately planted, and in the low marshes not a few mangroves. In the woods they saw the marks of many fires, about which the shells of fishes were scattered in plenty; from whence it was conjectured that the natives lived chiefly upon shell-fish, as neither bread-fruit, nor plantains seemed to abound; and that those yams that were brought to market were held very precious. The bread they chiefly use is made of the tender shoots of a certain tree, not unlike to liquorish root in colour and grain. These stewed in an earthen pot, when ready, have much the same taste as roasted potatoes. In the evening the boats recovered the ship, after a very fatiguing voyage, in which they were much incommoded by the weather.
12. This day the carpenter's mate, by the captain's order cut the following inscription on a large tree, HIS BRITANNIC MAJESTY'S SHIP RESOLUTION 1774. About three in the afternoon hoisted in the launch and small cutter, and prepared every thing in readiness to sail.
13. At six in the morning weighed anchor, and made sail with the wind E. S. E. steering to clear the passage between the reefs, by which they entered the harbour. At eight bore away for the east end of the isle W. by N. and W. N. W. While they continued this course, the dead man's cloaths were sold by auction as usual. At two in the afternoon, saw an island bearing S. by E. at a great distance. At seven two more islands came in sight, one bearing S. W. the other W. by N. Stood off and on all night.
14. Tacked and stood to the northward. The reef still a head.
15. Bore away W. N. W. At eight tacked, seeing the reef a head, and stood S. E. by E. Wind E. by N. At two calm, the reef not above a league and a half distant, and a light breeze from the eastward, and a heavy swell from the northward, which set in on the reef, alarmed the whole crew with the apprehension of danger, which was not a little increased by a dead calm that immediately succeeded, the ship's drift being right in upon the reef. The pinnace and large cutter, as the only means under Providence to save the ship, were hoisted out with that alertness by which the crew of the Resolution were distinguished, and both being employed in towing the ship off, with inconceivable labour, in which those who were engaged were relieved every two hours, they cleared the reef, but not till the next day.
16. The boats still towing:—about eight in the morning the reef was seen at a considerable distance; and about eleven, a breeze springing up from the S. by W. the pinnace and cutter were hoisted on board, and the ship made sail to the eastward.
17. They now began to direct their course to the south-eastward, and it was soon conjectured by the ship's company that the place to which they were bound was New-Zealand; but
it was not till the 21st that they cleared the land. This island must therefore be of considerable extent, and was perhaps that great country which the Indian Chief told Quiros lay to the southward, and which Quiros might misinterpret, by supposing it Monicôla, which is small in comparison to the great-country meant. Be this as it may, it does not appear that any European vessel ever before visited this island, to which Capt. Cooke gave the name of New Caledonia; it is situated partly between the 19th and 22d degree of south-latitude, and in long. 165 deg. 50 min. E. and at a distance appears very lofty and mountainous. Its extent from north to south full 90 leagues. From east to west unknown.
On the 24th, about sour in the afternoon, steering E. S. E. they came in sight of two small isles off the East point of the great island.
On the 25th they bore away S. by W. and saw several small isles to the eastward of the main. At three in the afternoon changed their course E. S. E. Saw white water a-head, and hauled up to the East. These isles were full of trees, and some of them had the appearance of statues, such as were seen on Easter-Island. Caught two sharks that were bespoke before taken. To sailors who are not accustomed to dainties, the flesh of these creatures, when cleared of the fat, is very good meat; and their intestines not much inferior to haselet, which by some is accounted a delicacy. Hoisted out the small cutter to try the current, but found none. Light breezes from the land. Tacked every two hours during the night.
26. Saw great flocks of birds, but at such a distance as not to be able to distinguish to what class they belonged. Stood to S. W.
27. Tacked, and stood to the S. E. close under the isle seen on the 23d to to the eastward of the main. It presented a most beautiful landscape: the trees seemed ranged in lines, and being nearly of a height, and the hills and lawns diversifying the prospect, nothing in nature could appear more delightful, except that water was wanting to compleat the picture. Stood off and on all night.
28. Saw the island on their lee-beam. Wind E. S. E. a stiff gale. Course S. W. and S. S. W. At eight tacked, and stood N. N. W. At eleven the man at the mast head called aloud HIGH LAND. About one in the afternoon saw the land from the deck extending as far as the eye could carry, bearing W. S. W. and W. by S. Hauled up to the S. W. by S. When they hauled up, the beautiful island they had just quitted bore about E. half N. distance six leagues; and the high land in sight bore about N. N. W. distance eight or nine leagues. At four saw breakers almost all round them. Tacked, and stood to the North, that being the clearest passage. At five tacked again, and stood to the southward. About five steered to the North-East, and N. E. by N. Sounded, and got every thing in readiness to cast anchor in forty fathom water; but the wind blowing hard, and the breakers and shoals multiplying about them, presented nothing but danger; it was therefore determined to bear away, and to take shelter under the lee of a small isle about four leagues from the High Land, where they dropped anchor in thirty-nine fathom water, fine shelly bottom.
29. The captain and gentlemen went on shore, and found that the island was frequented by the Indians, who had made many fires in the woods, about which lay scattered the bones and shells of fish: they found likewise two canoes buried in the sand upon the beach, and the callipee of a turtle at some distance from the water's edge. They found no water upon the island; but, after a fruitless search, returned on board very much fatigued: the carpenters, however, were sent on shore, who cut eight or nine straight spars, which were much wanted; and having made some necessary repairs in the masts and rigging,
On the 30th they weighed anchor, and narrowly escaped tumbling upon a sunken rock, which they discovered just under their lee-bow. Steering to the South-East, they discovered that the High Land already mentioned was a part of New Caledonia, which they discovered on the 4th instant: they therefore kept on their course.
Oct. 1. Sailed with great caution, the sea being full of reefs and sunken rocks. At ten they lost sight of land, and then made all the sail they could E. by S. Tacked, and stood to the S. W. and at twelve tacked again, and stood to the eastward, probably in search of some new land.
2. Course in the morning E. and E. S. E. a great swell from the southward. At eleven saw some man of war birds. Course S. by W.
3. Course S. by E. the weather squally.
4. Stood S. and S. by E. Saw a few birds.
5. Steered S. S E. the whole day. Lat. at noon 26 deg. 31 min.
6. At five in the morning tacked, and stood W. S. W. The weather being fine, and the gentlemen seeing many birds about the ship, ordered out the boat, and went a-shooting. About two in the afternoon they returned, having killed four large albatrosses, and several small birds. About five hoisted in the boat, and continued their course the whole night.
7. Stood to the S. W. all day. Wind S. S. E.
8. At twelve at noon stood S. W. by. S. At five they struck a small porpoise, as the sailors imagined; but, having pursued and brought it aboard, the naturalists were divided; and, by the most knowing, it was said to be an ancient dolphin.
9. Course this day W. S. W. Struck another of the above fish, and broke the harpoon in him close to the sockets. The former being dressed proved very good meat.
10. At five in the morning came in sight of land, bearing about S. And S. S. W. at six it appeared high and full of trees; neared it very fast, and all the morning employed in working under the lee of the isle: at one, being close by it, they hoisted out the pinnace and large cutter, and the captain with two of his lieutenants went on shore to reconnoitre the coast, and at the same time taking the carpenter's crow along with them to fell some trees, of which there were abundance large enough for masts for third-rate men of war, and others fit for yards, boltsprits, and all other uses about the ship. They met with no inhabitants, nor any obstruction whatever. The woods abounded with parrots and parroquetes, pidgeons, and other birds; but they found no water. The island appeared broken, and barren in many places; but in the vallies between the hills nothing could look more beautiful. At five in the afternoon the boats came in from the shore, the carpenters having felled what trees were wanted for use, which being shipped on board, the boats were hoisted in, and the ship stretched away to the eastward, with intent to go to the windward of the isle. In this course they passed a small uninhabited island, on which there grew abundance of cabbage trees; of these the ship's crew made the proper use. About eight in the evening the middle of the large island bore South half West six or seven leagues.
11. Still endeavouring to get to the windward of the island. Wind at E. and S. by E. Course South. At ten the two isles made into one, latitude at noon 29 deg. 27 min. Course S. S. E. Sounded in 33 fathom water; but the breeze favouring, they pursued their course, after giving a name to the island, and calling it Norfolk Isle. Lat. 28 deg. 58 min. and long. 167 deg. 30 min. E. by observation.
12. Course S. S. E. all day. At noon lat. 31 deg. 30 min. by observation.
[The difference of latitude between our journalist's reckoning, and the astronomer's, to fix the exact situation of the island on the 11th, is not easily accounted for: our journalist's, however, seems quite consistent with the run of the ship.]
13. Course S. E. by S. Saw something ahead that very much resembled land; but on nearing it, found it only a fog-bank. Hauled up S. E. by E. and steered in that direction all night.
14. Course S. E. by E. as before. Lat. at noon 34 deg. 8 min.
15. Course continued till noon. Altered S. E. Wind at north.
16. Course the same. At half past eleven the wind suddenly changed, and blew a storm, with thunder, lightening and rain. Course in the evening S. S. E.
17. Came in sight of land, bearing S. E. by E. half E. It proved to be Cape-Egmont, in New-Zealand, almost covered with snow. Sounded and made all the sail they could to the S. E. by S. At ten a stiff gale from the westward, course S. S. E. At four in the afternoon saw the southern land, ship's way all day eight and eight ½ knots an hour. At five hauled up, S. by W. night approaching. At twelve wore ship, and stood to the northward.
18. At two wore ship and stood to the southward. At eleven in a few seconds of time the wind varied all round the compass. At twelve brought too in Charlotte-Sound in New-Zealand, within a mile and a half of their former birth. At two hoisted our the large and small cutter, and sent them on shore, to see if the bottle had been removed, that was left with directions for the Adventure. They returned, and brought word, that the tree, under which it was deposited, had been cut down, and the bottle taken away, but whether by the natives, or by the Adventure's crew, they could not determine. They hauled the seine, but could catch no fish; but gathered scurvy-grass and wild cellery in plenty, which were no less acceptable. Here the fowlers kill wild fowl in abundance, and the crew being almost all of them in health, were little less rejoiced than if they had arrived on the coast of England.
19. They moored the ship, and sent the tents ashore; began to cut down wood and prepare for watering; but wondered that none of the natives came in sight. These savages undoubtedly imagined that the ship was come to revenge the death of the Adventure's men, whom they had killed and eaten; but being soon relieved from that dread, they came about the ship as usual, bringing fish, and whatever else the island produced, and behaving in seemingly a friendly manner.
Here the ship's crew pitched their tents as usual, and all hands were employed in repairs of various kinds; the gentlemen in reconnoitring the country, and the captain in surveying the Sound, in which he discovered a passage leading into the main ocean through several channels, 12 or 13 leagues from the entrance of the Sound. While the pinnace was employed in this discovery, she was dogged the whole day by a large double canoe, which however, did not dare to attack her, though encouraged by the savages on shore, who heaved stones at the pinnace, but did not reach her.
The gentlemen, who went out a-shooting, found a hog upon Long-island, left there, as was supposed, by the Adventure; she was very wild, and took to the woods as soon as discovered. Several of the crew went afterwards to hunt her, but without effect.
During their intercourse with the natives, they were given to understand that a ship had been cast away upon the coast; and that the natives had overcome the people, had killed them, and eat them.
Just before their departure, several strange Indians came rowing down the Sound, having a variety of articles, the produce of the country, to dispose of; some curiously wrought in jasper, some in wood; and not a few in reeds and matting. Some of their country cloth they brought likewise and exhanged for Ottaheite cloth, and cocoa-nut shells, of which last they were very fond, and of which there were some thousands on board. These savages had with them seven or eight young red painted blue-lip'd cannibal ladies, who were by no means unwilling to be introduced to the company of such of the ship's crew as fancied them. The gunner's mate, who had been confined in irons for endeavouring to leave the ship at Ottaheite, was here punished with twelve lashes for going ashore without leave in pursuit of one of those beauties.
After staying in this harbour from the 19th of October, till the 10th of November, and after taking in their full quantity of wood and water for a long run, they weighed anchor, and made sail with a fine breeze, blowing right out of the harbour.
On the 12th of November they cleared the land, and steering a S. S. E. course, till they came into the 53d degree of southern latitude, they continued in that parallel nearly till they came in sight of land between the straits of Magellan and Cape-Horn. In this long run, and in this high latitude, they met with not the least obstruction; they were favoured by wind and weather; for, from the time of their departure on the 12th of November, till their seeing land on the 17th of December, the weather, considering the climate, was moderately warm, and wind not unfavourable.
Oh the 16th of November they were in lat. 49 deg. 33 min. when the captain ordered canvas to be nailed all round the hatchways, to defend the crew, as much as possible, from the severity of the cold, in the climate they were about to navigate; and took every other precaution that was in his power for the preservation of the health of all his men.
On the 18th at noon, their latitude was 53 deg. 44 min.
On the 25th, their latitude at the same hour was 55 deg. 19 min.
On the 26th, the same
On the 4th of December, 53 deg. 15 min.
On the 5th, 53 deg. 8 min.
On the 7th, 53 deg. 20 min.
On the 8th, 53 deg. 33 min.
On the 9th, 53 deg. 27 min. Long. 256 deg. 21 min.
On the 10th, 53 deg. 83. min. Long. 257 deg. 46 min.
On the 11th, 54 deg. 14 min.
On the 13th, 53 deg. 25 min.
On the 14th, 53 deg. 27 min.
On the 15th, by observation, 53 deg. 30 min.
On the 16th, 53 deg. 26 min.
On the 17th came in sight of land, which proved the south side of Terra del Fuego, very rugged, and full of snow. There appeared, however, a great many isles and entrances; but the whole country presented neither tree nor shrub.
On the 18th, being in lat. 53 deg. 51 min. they came in sight of a flock of birds that extended for more than two miles; at the same time a great many shags came flying about the ship. Lat. this day at noon 53 deg. 51 min. Long. 287 deg.
19. Bore away E. by S. and coasted along shore, at the distance of about five or six leagues. It still appeared craggy and mountainous, and covered with snow; no trees or bushes, but the rocks resounding with the cries of sea-fowl, and birds of various kinds. At ten in the morning sounded in 45 fathom water, course gravel. At half past four in the afternoon, tacked, and stood right in for the shore, some part of which looked not unlike a large island of ice, except in magnitude and extent.
20. About one in the afternoon the southern head, known by the name of Cape-Horn, came in sight, sounded in 45 fathom water, sandy bottom. Lat. 55 deg. 10 min. Stood in for the land, which appeared barren as a desart; but the weather being clear and moderate, the whales were sporting, and throwing up the water like so many fountains, all along the coast. Discovered a fine bay, and stood towards it, but there being little wind, hoisted out the pinnace, the large and small cutters, and towed close in shore; and about nine at night came to an anchor in 25 fathom water.
21. Sent the boats out to search for water, who in the afternoon returned, having succeeded. Some of the officers who were on board the boats killed a great number of wild geese, not indeed so large as the geese in England, but much handsomer. On their report the ship unmoored, and when steadied again, she was landlocked on every side, so that no wind could blow to hurt her. On reconnoitring the country, they found a small quantity of wild cellery, and at some distance from the shore, discovered trees, the bark of which tasted like pepper. These trees, have obtained the name of Winterania Aromatica, in compliment perhaps to Capt. Winter, who was the first who brought a quantity of their bark from the straits of Magellan into England. There are trees, however, of a similar kind in almost every island in the West-Indies, the bark, fruit, and leaves of which have a fine aromatic flavour, and are used both in food and physic. What appears remarkable, is, that trees so like in quality, should grow in such opposite climates; and yet that those which grew in the West-Indies can by no sort of culture be brought to live in England, except in the stove.
Though the ships that passed the straits of Magellan, experienced great hardships in navigating that narrow sea, and were exposed to innumerable dangers, owing to the strong tides, and uncertain weather, yet our navigators, by rounding Cape Horn, escaped all these inconveniences. The weather was fine, though somewhat cold, and, by a diligent search, they found wood as well as water, sufficient to supply their wants.
While the crew was employed in cutting wood, and filling water, the captain was vigilant in examining the coast. About five or six miles from the place where the ship rode at anchor, he came to a cove, where he found the frame of a wigwam, or two, in which some Indians had formerly rested, and where they had made a fire, and feasted upon shell fish. He likewise met with some sea-fowl that could not fly, but fluttered upon the surface of the water, as fast as thought, and were such ready divers, that though the captain, and the gentlemen who accompanied him, fired several times, and hit the very spot on which they were fluttering, yet they never could kill one of them.
While the ship lay at anchor in this bay, one William Wedgborough, a marine, was missing, and no body could give any account of him. About twelve o'clock at night, on the 22d of December, he was drinking in company with three or four more of his comrades, and after that he was never seen; he was a fine hearty jolly fellow, about 24 years of age, and well respected by all his corps. This is rather worth noticeing, as the writer of the former voyage gives a similar account of a marine, who on being reproached by his company for a trifling theft committed in joke, made away with himself much about the same place.
Two or three days after the arrival of the ship a canoe came in sight, with a family of the natives paddling between the isles, probably gathering limpets and shell-fish. They took little or no notice of the ship, and kept at a distance; but, in less than a week, several other boats appeared, and some of the Indians ventured to come on board. They were not such miserable beings as has been represented. They were indeed naked, all but a seal skin thrown carelessly round their shoulders, and pinned upon their breasts with a kind of skewer; but they were not dejected.
Some had ornamented their heads with feathers made up in various forms; but every other part of their bodies, except their backs, was without covering, women as well as men. They bore, notwithstanding, a very healthy appearance; and, except a continual shivering, which perhaps was natural to them, they made no bad figure.
They were painted of a dark kind of red or copper colour from head to foot, intermixed with streaks of other colours upon their arms and thighs.
Their wigwams were only temporary dwellings, made of the slender boughs of trees, arched over like so many arbours, and covered with the branches and leaves of the winter's bark tree. In these they make their fires, and dress their meat. In one of them that had been deserted on the approach of a party of sailors, there was the leg of a goose ready dressed, and the remains of some fish, on which, it was supposed, they had dined. Their canoes differ but little from those of the other Americans: they are made of the bark of large trees, put together with great labour, and covered with seal-skins: they differ much from the canoes in the Tropical Islands, being very wide in proportion to their length, and having a quantity of earth in them, on which, in their fishing seasons, they make their fires. It should seem that these canoes are each the property of a separate family, for in every canoe there were women and children.
The men did not express either fear or wonder on coming on board: but their reason for hiding themselves on shore seemed to be lest their women and children should be taken from them and carried into captivity; a dread which runs through the whole human race, let their situation be ever so mean, in the place of their nativity. Their language is hoarse and guttural.
Orders were given, that no purchase should be made with them, without giving them clothing in exchange: but there was nothing of which they were possessed that they would not sell; their bows and arrows, their spears, their fishing-tackle, their utensils of every kind, all came to market. Whatever was given them to assuage their hunger they would eat voraciously; and whenever they went off from the ship they never failed to entertain the company with a dance.
Here the ship's company kept their Christmas jovially; and it was not till after some days that they could be brought to business.
While they remained at anchor, the people on board were in no want of fresh provisions, they found wild-fowl in such abundance that numbers of them were killed and salted down for future use, and not a few kept alive, especially geese; and of scurvy-grass and wildcelery they were in no want, after the country came to be better known. It being the height of summer, they found meadows that might have been mowed, and the grass made into hay; and there were many plants and flowers that were exceeding beautiful, and totally unknown to our European botanists.
The repairs being at length compleated, and wood and water supplied, on the 27th of December the ship prepared to sail; and on the 28th they weighed and put to sea. Their course out of the bay, to which they gave the name of Christmas Sound, was S. by E. and S. S. E. Its latitude 54 deg. 24 min. according to our journalist's reckoning; by the astronomer's 55 deg. 26 min. It long by the former, 289 deg. 00 min. by the latter, 289 deg. 54 min. East.
On the 29th Cape Horn, bearing N. 88 deg. East distance five or six leagues, they pursued their course to the N. E. by N. and N. N. E. half E. till they came off Success-Bay, where the Endeavour anchored in her former voyage, and where the present navigators had appointed to rendezvous in case of separation from the Adventure: they therefore hoisted the large cutter out to make search if any token had been left of that ship's anchoring there; but no such token having been found, they returned, after cutting the ship's name and date of the year on a large tree adjoining to the strand. While this was doing, they saw thirty or forty of the natives, who came out of the woods to welcome them on shore, one of whom the sailors remembered. He made motions for knives, but there were scarce any on board. The people here seemed rather stouter than those about Christmas Sound; but made no figure as giants.
30. They now directed their course to Staten's Land, in the passage to which the whales were so numerous and large that the crew thought themselves in danger of the ship's being overset by them: penguins and seals were likewise in plenty.
At half past nine in the morning they bore away S. E. and got close under a pleasant long isle, which appeared to be clothed with a verdure equal to any they had yet seen. At half past ten they heard a great noise, like the lowing of many cattle, but soon found that it was the roaring of the sea-lions that harboured upon the coast.
31. At half after one came too between the East side of the Green Island, and the West side of Staten Land; distance about three leagues from each. About one the boats were hoisted out, and about 40 of the crew, armed with muskets and Amsterdam clubs, hastened to shore to kill seals. As soon as the boats landed, the people on board could see the engagement, which was very hot so long as it lasted. Instead of seals they found an innumerable herd of lions and lionesses basking on the beach; and in a very short time they sent the large cutter back with several old ones, and above 200 young ones. At seven in the evening the other boats came off with another freight. Some of the old lions weighed from 700 to 800 lb. weight. The young ones are about the size of large bull-dogs. During the whole time of the engagement there were from 30 to 40 lions in the water close by the launch, roaring, jumping, and standing upright, but afraid to land. These lions yield vast quantities of oil; but are very hard to kill, some of hte large lions having gone off with eight or ten balls in their heads. Some of them measured from eight to nine feet in length, and not less round the shoulders. Their feet, or what the sailors call their phippers, measured from two feet and a half to three feet and a half in length. They have the appearance of lions as they bask upon the roks; but when lying on the beach, they look more like flocks of sheep, with 20 or 30 large black rams among them. By the description here given of them they seem to differ much from those found in the North Seas.—Some of the gentlemen who went up into the country saw bears; but time was wanting to encounter them. This island is entirely covered with coarse long grass, through which the tracks of sea and landmonsters may be traced for many miles. Turkies, bustards, and hawks, were seen upon this island, and several geese were killed upon it. In the evening the boats were hoisted in, and the people employed in assisting the butcher in cutting the blubber form the lions, and casking it up.
Jan. 1. The whole day was spent in killing lions, penguins, geese, and teals: every little cove upon the Green Island was covered with them. The penguins are accounted good eating; and thousands of them were killed for that purpose. It is desperate work to encounter the lions, without first firing two or three balls into them; for they will spring two or three yards at their assailants when they find themselves hard pressed.
2. While the ship rode in this channel the pinnace was hoisted out to reconnoitre the West coast of Staten Land, and brought word that they had discovered a safe harbour, in which the whole royal navy of England might anchor in safety, and find wood, water, and wild-fowl, sufficient to supply their wants.
3. The ship's cooks boiled no less than 300 wild-fowl this day for the ship's company, as every one was at liberty to eat what he pleased. Several went upon the doctor's list, more it should seem from gluttony and intemperance than from the effects of the climate.
4. Came to sail, the weather sine, temperate, and the sun shining bright, proceeded with a brisk breeze E. S. E.
5. Continued the same course the whole day and night; the ship's run seven or eight knots an hour. At noon lat. 57 deg. 11 min.
6. Course East.
7. Course N. W. probably in quest of Roache's Land.
8. Came in sight of great quantities of seaweeds. Course N. Sounded, but no ground.
9. Latitude at noon by observation 55 deg. 13 min. Cruising for Roache's Land. Saw several albatrosses. Course E. in the morning. In the afternoon stood to the W. N. W. At twelve at night stood N. W. by. W.
10. Bore away E. N. E. At five steered N. E. Lat. at noon 54 deg. 38 min. Course E. by N. Saw some sea-weeds, and a gannett. Course all night E. by N.
11. Still cruising for Roache's Land. Course E. N. E. Lat. at noon 54 deg. 34 min.
12. Course E. Latitude at noon 54 deg. 25 min. Saw a seal, and sea-weeds. Course E. by N. half N.
13. Made sail to the S. S. E. At twelve tacked, and steered N. N. E. Saw some birds and sea-weeds.
14. At eight saw something like land, or an island of ice. Saw great numbers of albatrosses, and small grey petterells; three Port Egmont hens, two antarctic birds, and some penguins, with a variety of other birds; red beaks, white heads, and yellow feet. Lat. at noon 54 deg. 05 min. At four sounded, and found ground at 18 fathom, muddy bottom. Course S. by E. Saw the land extending a great way to the northward of the peak, mistaken in the morning for an ice island.
15. The weather hazy, attended with sleet and snow, and excessive cold. Lost sight of land; but certain to be at no great distance from it.
16. The land bore East. It appeared amazingly lofty, mountainous, craggy, and almost covered with snow. It now seemed to extend farther to the eastward and southward than the eye could carry. At twelve bore away N. N. W. The nearer they approached the land, the more rugged and craggy it appeared, differing in nothing from that of Terra del Fuego on the western side, but in being covered with snow. At twelve the extremes of the land were from N. by E. half E. to N. 2 by E. half E. Latitude 54 deg. 25 min. At three steered through a strait or passage three or four leagues in breadth, between several small isles and the main. In this passage many green patches were seen upon the land; and the greatest part of the sea coast was clear from snow. While they continued sailing to the North Eastward, the land seemed in that direction to have no end; insomuch that all the mariners on board were overjoyed, imagining they had now found the Southern-Continent of which they came in search. Having cleared the strait, they stood E. by N. the land not above three leagues distant. At nine at night hove too.
17. At half after three bore away S. E. by E. Wind S. W. at four course E. half S. the land still winding eastward. At seven hauled up S. S. E. seeing a fine bay to cast anchor, sounded in 45 fathom water, blue mud, and small stones. At nine hoisted out the large cutter, and went on shore with a stand of colours. Latitude 54 deg. S. long. 322 deg. 32 min. E. As soon as they landed, they took possession of the country in the name of their Royal Master, and hoisting an English Jack, fired three volley's of fire-arms, and christened the country GEORGIA. In this bay they found an excellent harbour, had not the head of it been frozen up. The sea fowl which swam in the mouth of the harbour were quite tame; but two monsters which lay on the beech were frightfully fierce. They were in their general shape not much unlike the sea lions of Green-Island, but much larger; they killed one of them that measured 18 feet, and every way large in proportion; his head resembled the head of a shark, his eyes were fixed in the upper part of his head, and his phippers were armed with claws. He was shot with intent to make a drawing of him. They met with no interruption from the inhabitants, nor any thing that could invite their stay. At half after one the boat returned with the monster on board, and at two they made sail steering E. S. E.
By the course they steered, the shore appears to be very irregular, but in general trending to the south east, as far as the mountains just mentioned, though they coasted it along in almost all directions, from the 14th of January to the 7th of February, when having lost sight of it for two or three days, the weather being piercing cold, and the crew but poorly clad, the captain gave orders to stand to the east. It is much to be regretted, that so little regard is paid by contractors, to the quality of the articles they furnish, that few of them are intrinsically worth half what the poor men are charged for them. In this voyage, the shoes in particular were so intolerably bad, that when the rain, snow, or sleet, fell upon the decks, which either one or the other did almost every day in this cruise, one might wring the shoes like a piece of flannel; and they were of no more service in keeping the feet warm than if they had been made of woollen rags; for the least moisture penetrated the very soles. The reader may judge then how uncomfortable it must be for poor men to stand for hours together, with wet feet, in such rigorous climates.
Besides the horrid appearance the different views of the land exhibited, and the workings, and bearings of the ship, nothing remarkable happened in the long cruise, of which we have been speaking, except that on the third of February, three or four days before they left the land, they passed through a portion of sea, the water of which was as white as milk; this was about the 59th degree of latitude, and at no great distance from the tow'ring mountains already noticed: They sounded, supposing the ship in shallow water; but found no bottom. The water, when taken up in a bucket, and compared with other water, retained none of its milky colour, but showed in every respect like the ordinary sea-water. This, however, is not the first observation of the kind; others have noticed the like phoenomenon.
When the ship took her departure from this continent, February 7, her longitude was 341 deg. E. and her lat. 58 deg. S. nearly, and on that day she compleated her circuit round the globe, being then in the longitude of the Cape of Good Hope, from whence they set out. In this latitude she continued to sail without any material deviation till the 15th of February, when the captain changed the course, steering a little more to the northward, in search of Bouvet's-Land, and traversed from the 57th to the 54th degree, till the 19th, when in latitude 54 deg. they fell in with many signs of land, but next day all those signs disappeared. They then bore away E. by N. deviating, however, in many directions as signs and circumstances arose, till on the 13th of March, in lat. 41 deg. 57 min. Long. 24 deg. E. they began to cruise for two islands, said to have been seen nearly in that situation; but, not succeeding, they continued their course to the Cape of Good-Hope. In their way, however, a quarrel arose between three of the principal officers, and the ship's cooks, which was not reconciled without very serious consequences. Those three gentlemen, upon some occasion or other, entered the cook-room with naked knives, and with oaths, unbecoming their character, swore they would take away the lives of the first who dared to affront them. It seems they had formerly met with some rebuffs for too much frequenting the cook's apartments, which had hitherto passed in joke; but now a regular comp
t was laid before the captain, of their unwarrantable behaviour, and of
men were in of their lives;
complaint the captain was under
of enquiring; and, upon finding
, of confining the offenders in irons. While they were in this situation, the articles of war being read, it was found that the offence was of such a nature as hardly to be determined without reference to a ccourt martial, in order to which the two who appeared most culpable, were continued prisoners upon parole, and the third cleared.
In a day or two after this business had engrossed the captain's attention, he called the ship's crew together, and, after recounting the particulars of the voyage, the hardships they had met with, the fatigues they had undergone, and the chearfulness which they had shewn in the discharge of their duty; he gave them to understand, how much more it would recommend them to the notice of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, if they would preserve a profound silence in the ports they had yet to pass, with regard to the courses they had
, and the discoveries they had made, and after their return home till they had received permission so to do; requiring at the same time, all those officers who had kept journals to deliver them into his custody, to be sealed up in a chest, not to be opened till delivered to their lordships at the proper office. This request was chearfully complied with by every commissioned officer: but some who had kept memorials merely by way of exercise, and to qualify themselves for future preferment, not thinking their performances perfect enough to be laid before personages of such distinguished rank, reserved their labours to gratify the curiosity of their friends. Of this kind is the journal now submitted to the public, which, however defective in point of intelligence, is true in what relates to the conduct of the voyage throughout. It were of little moment to acquaint the reader with the reasons which prevailed with the journalist to suffer his first imperfect essay to fall into the hands of a bookseller; let it suffice to assure him, that the facts are true, how uncourtly soever they may be expressed.
They had now been near 40 days in their passage from Georgia to the Cape of Good Hope without seeing land; and before they arrived on the coast of Africa they fell in with two ships standing W. S. W. without being able to speak with either. This was on the 15th of March 1775.
On the 16th they came in sight of land, but at a great distance.
On the 17th, five sail came in sight, and one catching a breeze, bore down to hail them. They hoisted out the great cutter, and sent an officer on board for news; who, upon his return, brought the melancholy account of the boat's crew of the Adventure being killed and eaten by the cannibals of New Zealand. The ship from which they received this intelligence was a Dutch East-Indiaman from Bengal, who upon being told that they had been in no European port since November 1772, offered them whatever they stood in need of, either for repairs or refreshments: but being in no immediate want, they very politely declined the obligation. This day was Friday with the Dutchman, but Saturday with our navigators, having gained a day by running to the eastward. The land they first made proved Cape Legullas.
On the 18th they spoke with an English ship, the Free Briton, Capt. Norton, from China. She had been fourteen or fifteen months out, and gave an account, which, however, was not true, that the Aurora's people had risen and killed the captain, officers, and superintendants, and that they had turned pirates, and had taken two Dutch ships of considerable value; that several Indiamen had been lost, one in particular on the island of Johanna, part of whose crew they had on board; and that two or three king's ships that sailed from India were on their return home.
In their passage from Cape Legullas to Table-bay they met with several heavy gales, in which their masts, sails, and rigging, being much decayed, suffered considerably.
On the 20th they came in sight of Table-Land, on which day the captain was pleased to forgive the officers under arrest, upon their submission.
On the 21st they moored ship in Table-bay, in sight of many ships of different nations, where they soon heard the deplorable story of the Adventure's boats crew confirmed, with the addition of a false report of the loss of a French ship upon the same island, with the total destructin of the captain and crew, propagated, no doubt, by the Adventure's people, to render an act of savage barbarity that hardly would admit of aggravation still more horrible.
Here they staid till April the 27th to repair the ship and recruit their stores; and in the mean time the captain wrote letters to the Admiralty, with an account of their proceedings, and safe arrival at the Cape, which were sent home, together with the journals of the officers, by the Ceres Indiaman, who arrived in England on the third of July last.
At the Cape, the curiosity of all nations was excited to learn the success of their discoveries, and in proportion to the earnestness of the sollicitations, wherewith the common men were pressed, by foreign inquisitors, they took care to gratify them with wonderful relations. Hence many strange stories were circulated abroad, before it was known at home, whether the ship had perished at sea, or was upon her return to Europe.
The captain, however, lost no time in putting all things in a condition to complete the voyage; and the Dutton-Indiaman being in readiness to put to sea, they took their departure together on the 27th of April, as has already been said. On the 15th of May they arrived at St. Helena; on the 21st they again proceeded in company, but parted at Ascension the 28th, the Resolution having touched there, to take in turtle, while the Dutton continued her course. On the 11th of June they crossed the line; on the 14th of July they anchored at Fyal, one of the Western Isles; and on the 31st of July 1775, arrived at Spithead; all in good health, having lost only one man by sickness, and three by accidents, in all this long and hazardous voyage.
FINIS.