A VOYAGE Round the WORLD. Containing an Account of Captain
Dampier
's Expedition Into the
South-Seas
in the Ship
St George,
In the Years 1703 and 1704. With his various Adventures, Engagements,
&c.
And a particular and exact Description of several Islands in the
Atlantick
Ocean, the
Brazilian
Coast, the Passage round Cape
Horn,,
and the Coasts of
Chili, Peru,
and
Mexico.
Together with the Author's Voyage from
Amapalla
On the West-Coast of
MEXICO,
To
EAST-INDIA.
His passing by Three Unknown Islands, and thro' a New-discover'd Streight near the Coast of
New Guinea;
His Arrival at
Amboyna:
With a large Description of that and other
Spice Islands;
as also of
Batavia,
the
Cape of Good Hope,
&c. Their Rivers, Harbours, Plants, Animals, Inhabitants,
&c.
With divers Maps, Draughts, Figures of Plants and Animals.
By
William Funnell,
Mate to Captain
Dampier.
London,
Printed by
W. Botham,
for
James Knapton,
at the
Crown
in St
Paul
's Church yard. 1707.
To the Honourable
Josiah Burchett
ESQUIRE, Secretary to his Royal Highness Prince
George
of
Denmark,
Lord High-Admiral of
England, Ireland,
&c.
SIR,
HAving been employed on a Voyage into the
South-Seas,
under the Command of Capt.
Dampier,
in the Year 1703, and having both in that Expedition, and in my Return by the Easternpart of the South-Sea, and through the
Indian
-Ocean, remarked not only faithfully, but with all the Accuracy I could, whatever I conceived might be serviceable, or instructive to such as should hereafter sail into those Parts, I hope you will pardon my Presuption in laying my said Observations before you.
I humbly take the Liberty to represent to you, that I have launched forth into no Descriptions, or particular Accounts of Things, which the Course of my Voyage gave me not sufficient Opportunity to be fully and perfectedly instructed in, and I spared no Pains in the setting them down, together with Draughts of such Places as I had time or convenience of taking; and in all this I have not through any design of contradicting others, or in hopes thereby to recommend my own Performance, either opposed or slighted any good and true Observations which have already been made by those who have heretofore visited any of the same Places. This I presume to mention, with a particular regard to the most material of Captain
Dampier
's own Observations, formerly published, which I found by Experience to be true: But I hope I may, without breach of Modesty, declare that I have remarked several things both new and useful, which the uncommon Course we steared, and the unusual Accidents we met with, gave me particular Opportunities to enquire into.
Sir, I am not pretending to a meritorious Claim of your Protection, but am encourag'd to hope for it from your known Candour and Goodness: And it is very natural to flatter our selves, that Persons of your Judgment and Experience in Maritime Affairs, will look with a more favourable Eye, even on our meanest Endeavours, than those can be expected to do, who know but little of those Matters, and are apt to prefer superficial Accounts, which are frequently very erroneous, before the most useful, though less diverting. However it be, if I can be so happy as to receive any countenance from your distinguishing Judgment, or at least your Pardon for this my Boldness, I shall not fear that any Opinion or Prejudice of less discerning Persons, can discredit the Truth, or Usefulness of my Observations.
I am sensible, Sir, how little I ought to encroach upon your Time, which is so usefully and so diligently employed: And therefore I humbly beg leave to conclude with subscribing my self,
Your HONOURS most Dutiful, most Obedient, and most Humble Servant,
William Funnell.
THE PREFACE
THE Voyages and Descriptions formerly published by Captain
William Dampier,
have met with so good Reception and universal Approbation in the World; and there has been so general an Expectation of the Success of the present Expedition, under the Command of a Person so perfectly acquainted with those Parts of the World to which we were bound, and so well skilled in the Trade, Shipping, Customs and Designs of the
Spaniards,
against whom we were employed; that I presume there needs no Apology, for publishing the following Account.
The Success indeed of our Expedition, was not such as might at first have been expected from the Skill of our Commander and the Resolution of our Men. Disagreements and Mismanagements having broken our Measures, and defeated our most promising Hopes; as they have often been Occasions of the miscarriage of the greatest and noblest Attempts.
But though we failed in our chief Designs; yet the great Variety of Accidents we met with, and the many Discoveries we made, and particular Accounts of the manner how our Attempts miscarried, I hope cannot but be very acceptable to the inquisitive Reader.
I have chosen not to be large in the Descriptions of Towns and Places, of which others have already given us sufficient Accounts. But the whole Western Coast of
America,
from the Southend of
California
to the Port of
Valdivia,
which is above sixty Degrees, I have given one continued and much more particular Description of, than has ever yet been made publick; and also I have given an exact Account of the Variation of the Compass upon the whole Coast. And though it may perhaps by some be thought not so pleasant and entertaining, as Descriptions of the Country within Land; yet it cannot but be much more useful, especially to such as shall hereafter sail into those Parts.
And here I cannot in justice but take notice, that upon all this Coast, and during our whole stay in the South Seas, we found Captain
Dampier
's Descriptions of Places very exact; and his Account of Winds, Currents,
&c.
very extraordinary.
After our parting from Capt.
Dampier
in the Gulf of
Amapalla,
and running over to
India;
we met, as with many Hardships, so also with some Variety of new Discoveries, in our wandering among unknown Spice-Islands: And particularly the Misfortunes, which necessitated us to put in at
Amboyna,
where we were detained Prisoners by the
Dutch;
gave me an opportunity of making such Enquiries into the State, Government, Product, Trade,
&c.
of that Island, as I perswade my self will be very acceptable to the ingenious Reader.
ERRATA.
Pag.
lin.
read
6
1
watered.
152
18
never
170
16
seven or eight
208
7
leagues.
THE CONTENTS.
CHAP. I.
The Design of the Voyage. The Auth or's Departure. Arrival at
St Jago.
A Description of that Island. Of the Shark. Of the Dolphin. Of the Jelly-Fish. Of the Old-Wife. Description of the Islands of St
Anns.
Of the Boobie. Of the Island
Le Grand.
Of the Silver-Fish. A strange Bird taken off the
Sibbel de Wards.
Arrival at
Juan Fernando's. Page
1
CHAP. II.
Description of
Juan Fernandoes.
Of the Cabbage-tree. Wild Cats. Goats. The Humming-Bird. Description of the Sea-Lion. Of the Seal. Another sort of Silver-Fish. A Sea-Fight. Departure for the Coast of
Peru.
Sea coloured Red with a multitude of the Spawn of Fish. The Port of
Arica.
Arrival at the Island
Gallo.
Its Description. Lion-Lizards.
p.
17.
CHAP. III.
Departure from
Gallo.
Design upon the Town of
Sancta Maria.
Cape
Corrientes.
Point
Garachina.
Attempt upon
Santa Maria.
How it miscarried. A Prize taken very seasonably when we were in great want of Provisions. The two Captains part Company. The Island
Iguanos
described. Departure for the Coast of
Peru.
Another Prize taken. The River of
St Jago.
The Bay of
Sardinas.
Alligators described. Cape
St Francisco.
The Island of
Plata.
The great City of
Guiaquil.
A dangerous Sea-Fight. Point
Gallera.
The Bay of
Tacames.
Coco-tree and Nut described. Plantain described. Bonanoes described. The Bay of
St Matthew.
Departure from the Bay of
Tacames
for the Gulf of
Nicoya. p.
38
CHAP. IV.
The Island
Caneo.
The Mountains called
Sierras de los Coronadas.
The Gulf of
Nicoya.
The Ship cleaned. Mr.
Clippington
the Chief-Mate leaves us. A particular Description of the Gulf of
Nicoya.
The Maccaw described. The Carrion-Crow. The Pelican. The Guanoe. The Turtle. The Pearl-Oyster. The Great Oyster. Muscles. Departure from the Gulf of
Nicoya.
Two Mountains of
Guatimala,
the one casting out Water, the other Fire. A Prize taken. Vulcanoes. The Bay of
Tecoantepeque. Suvartaneo.
Another Prize taken. The Bay of
Martaba.
The Mountains called
Motines.
The Mount of
St Jago,
and Port of
Quelagna.
Another Prize taken. Attempt upon the
Manila
Ship, unsuccessful. The Men desire to return home: But agree to cruize s
x Weeks longer, and then go into
India.
The
Albicore
deseribed. The Crew divide, part tarrying with Captian
Dampier
in the South-Seas, and part resolving to go for
India p.
63
CHAP. V.
A particular Description of the Coast of
Mexico.
The Hill of
Zalisco.
The Cocoa-tree. The Islands
Maria's.
The Rocks and Points of
Pontique.
Cape
Corrientes.
The Islands of
Chametly.
Port of
St Jago,
and of
Navidad.
Bay of
Sallagua.
The Mountains
Motines.
The River
Sacaticli.
The Mountains of
Chequetan
and
Petaplan. Acapulco.
Port
Marquiss.
Point
Gallera
The Island
Alcatrazes.
Point
Escondedo.
The R.
Messias.
River of
Gallera.
Port
Angels.
Port of
Guatulco. Mazattlan.
Port of
Salina. Tecoantepeque.
Cat-Fish. The Hill of
Bernal.
The Vulcans of
Soconusco, Amilpas, Sapotitlan, Sacatepeque, Atitlan,
and
Guatimala.
City of
Guatimala.
The P. of
Sonsonat Trinidad.
The Vulcans of
Isalco, S. Salvadore
and
Sacatelepa.
The R.
Lempa. St Michaels.
The Gulf of
Amapalla.
The Shovel-nos'd Shark. The Ceawau. Port of
Ria Lexa.
The Vulcan
Vejo.
Vulcans of
Telica,
and
Leon Mamotombo, Granada
and
Bombacho.
Mountain of
Popogajo.
Port of
Velas.
Mount of
Hermozo.
Cape of
Gajones.
Cape
Blanco.
Gulf of
Nicoya. Sierras de los Coronadas.
The Island
Caneo. Punto mala. Golfo Dulce. Puebla Nova.
Islands
Quibo, Quicara
and
Rancheria.
Point of
Mariato.
The
Morro de Porcos.
Point of
Higuera. Punta mala.
The Island
Guanoes. Nata. p.
87
CHAP. VI.
A Particular Description of the Coast of
Peru.
The Bay of
Panama.
The City of
Panama.
Island of
Perica.
The Island
Tabago.
The
Kings Islands.
The Island
Chepelio. Cheapo
River and Town. The Island
Planta.
Cape St
Lorenzo.
The Gulf of St
Michaels.
Point
Garachina.
Port
Pinas.
Ports of
Quemado
and
Santa Clara.
Bay of St
Antonio.
The River of
Sande.
Cape
Corrientes.
Bay and River of
Bonaventura.
The Island
Palmas. Gorgonia. Gallo. Tomaco
River and Town. The
Ancon
of
Sardinas.
The River of St
Jago.
Bay of St
Mattheo.
The Bay of
Tacames.
The Point of
Gallera.
Cape St
Francisco.
The Rainy Season from
California
to Cape St
Francisco,
beyond which, the Rains seldom extend to the Southward: And the same observed concerning the Worms.
Apottete.
The Rivers of
Cogimes.
Mountains and Village of
Coaque.
Cape
Passao.
The Bay of
Caracas. Manta.
A remarkable Observation of the Wind between Cape
Passao
and Cape
Blanco.
Cape St
Lorenzo.
The Island
Plata. Salongo.
The Rocks
Ahoreados.
The River and Island
Colanche.
Town and Point of St
Hellena.
Bay of
Guiaquil.
Point
Chandy.
The Islands St
Clara
and
Puna. Guiaquil.
Point
Arena.
The River
Tumbes.
Cape
Blanco.
Point
Parina.
An Observation of the Winds upon the Coasts of
Peru
and
Chili.
Port of
Payta
and the River
Colan.
Mountains of
Motapa.
The Islands,
Lobos de Terra
and
Lobos de la Mar.
The Ports of
Chiripi
and
Pacasmayo. Malabrigo. Chicama. Truxillo.
The Island of
Saints.
Port of
Cosma.
Of
Vermejo.
Mount of
Mongon.
Port of
Guarmey.
The Port of
Guara.
Of
Chancay.
The Rocks
Piscadores.
The Islands
Ormigas. Callau. Lima.
Port of
Chilca. Guarco. Chinca. Pisco.
High Land, without Rain or Rivers. Several small Ports. Mount of
Atico.
Vulcan of
Ariquipa.
Port and River of
Ylo. Arica.
Bay of
Majalones.
Mount of
Moreno. p.
144
CHAP. VII.
A Description of the Coast of
Chili.
The Port of
Copiapo.
The Port of
Guasco. Copuimbo. Tongoi. Lymary. Choape. Govanadore. Papuda. Clintera. Concon.
The River of
Chili. Valparizo.
Bay of
Rio. Salinas. Topa de Calma. Lora.
River of
Maule.
Point of
Unmos.
River
Itata.
Point of
Sinfonda.
The Island
Quinquina.
City of the
Conception.
Port of St
Vincent.
The River
Biobio.
Hills of
Guera.
Port
Labipi.
Island of
Santa Maria. Canero.
Hill of
Tucapell.
The River
Imperial.
The Island
La Moucha.
River of
Tolton. Valdivia
Port. The Occasion of its Name.
Chili
abounds most in Gold, as
Peru
does in Silver.
p.
199
A Table of Latitude, Longitude, and the Variation in most of the principal places as we coasted along the three Empires of
Chili, Peru
and
Mexico. p.
216
CHAP. VIII.
Difficulty in getting Water at the Island
Conchagua
in the Gulf of
Amapalla.
Departure from the Gulf of
Amapalla
for
India.
The Fish Yellow-tail described. Trade-wind brisker in the South-Sea, than in the Atlantick. Very little Variation observed in the Run over to
India.
Arrival at the Island
Magon.
The Island
Guam. Matan. Arracife.
Three unknown Islands discovered. The
Boneto
described.
Indians
wonderfully amazed at the sight of white Men. The Main-Land of
New-Guinea.
The Island
Gillolo.
Attempt to find a new Passage on the Coast of
New-Guinea.
A new Streight discovered, called St.
John
's Streight. The Islands
Ceram
and
Bonoa.
They indeavour in vain to get Provisions at
Manipa.
Description of the Island
Manipa.
Great distress for want of Provisions. The Island
Amblow.
Arrival at
Amboyna. p.
218
CHAP. IX.
The
A.
and the whole Crew and Ship secured at
Amboyna.
A particular Description of
Amboyna;
Its Situation, Soil, Inhabitants, Castle, Buildings; Its subjectness to great Earthquakes; Its Government. Of the
Malayan
Inhabitants in it. The Hill-
Malayans
always at War with the Dutch.
Malayan
Slaves. The Custom of dealing with Debtors. Women- slaves. The Product of the Island; Cloves. Ginger, Pepper, Rattans, Canes, and Nutmegs. A particular Description of the growth of Cloves, the manner of gathering them,
&c.
Some Gold-mines said to be in this Island. The Governours annual Progress to visit the Spice-Islands. The Beasts and Birds upon this Island. The
Crockadore
described. The
Cassawaris
described. The
Bird of Paradice.
The
Sea-Porcupine.
The Fruits in this Island. The Pine-apple described. The Mangoe. Very deep Water round the Island. Its Harbour and Fortifications. The place where the English formerly massacred here, were thrown. Several little Islands about
Amboyna. Boangbessy
and
Hinomoa. Banda.
The Governour of
Amboyna,
Chief over all the Spice-Islands. Moskitoes very troublesome at
Amboyna.
The Tryal of a certain
Malayan
for murdering his Slave. The
A.
and part of his Company released, and depart from
Amboyna. p.
218
CHAP. X.
Departure from
Amboyna,
and arrival at the Island of
Lancas.
The Island
Cabeses.
The Island
Bouton.
The Island
Celebes.
The Passages between
Celebes
and
Zalayer.
The Island
Zalayer.
A very large and dangerous Shole, with an Observation of a great Fault in the
Dutch
Maps relating to it. Arrival at
Batavia.
Description of part of the Coast of
Java. Batavia
described. The Tamarind-tree. The
Mangastan.
The
Rumbostan.
Departure from
Batavia
for
England. Bantam.
Streights of
Sunda.
Princes Island. The Cape of
Good Hope. Hottentotes.
Their beastly manner of Living. Their Worship. The difficulty of civilizing them. Their Houses,
&c.
Wild Beasts, how killed by the
Dutch.
The Product of the Country. Beasts. Fowls. Fishes. News from the Men that had left the
A.
in the Gulf of
Nicoya.
Departure from the Cape for
England. Penguin
Island and Birds. An Earthquake felt at Sea. Great Difference of Cold in 60 d. of Northern, and 60 d. of Southern Latitude; and the Reason of it. The Islands of
Faro.
Return Home.
p.
276
A Map of the WORLD According to
Marcator
s projection, Shewing the Course of Mr .
Funnells
Voyage Round it.
Mr
WILLIAM FUNNEL
's Voyage to the
South-Sea, &c.
in the Ship St
George,
Captain
William Dampier
Commander.
CHAP. I.
The Design of the Voyage. The A's Departure. Arrival at St
Jago.
A Description of that Island. Of the Shark. Of the Dolphin. Of the Jelly-Fish. Of the Old-Wife. Description of the Islands of St
Ann.
Of the Boobie. Of the Island
Le Grand.
Of the Silver-Fish. A strange Bird taken off the
Sibbel de Wards.
Arrival at
Juan Fernando's.
WE were at first Two Ships, of Twenty-six Guns and One hundred and twenty Men each; designed for the South-Seas: The one was named the St
George,
Captain
William Dampier
Commander, on Board of which I was; and the other was named the
Fame, John Pulling
Captain. We were each of us supplied with all War-like Stores, and very well victualled for nine Months; and had Commissions from his Royal Highness the Lord High-Admiral, to proceed in a War-like manner against the
French
and
Spaniards:
And we Both were upon the same Terms, of no Purchase no Pay. But whilst we were in the
Downs,
there arising some Difference between the two Captains, Captain
Pulling
in his Ship the
Fame
went away and left us; intending, as he said, to go and cruize among the
Canary-Islands;
and we never saw him after. But before our going away from
Ireland,
we were joyned by another Ship sent after us on purpose. She was a small Ship, named the
Cinque-ports
Gally, burthen about ninety Tuns, sixteen Guns, and sixty three Men,
Charles Pickering
Captain: Which Ship was also very well victualled and provided for the said Voyage. Our Proposals were to go into the River of
Plate,
to
Buonas Aires,
to take two or three
Spanish
Galleons which Captain
Dampier
gives an account are usually there: And if by that Expedition we got to the value of 600000 Pounds, then to return again without proceeding further: But if we missed of Success there, then to cruize upon the Coast of
Peru,
for the
Valdivia
Ships, which commonly are said to bring down store of Gold to
Lima:
But if that Design should also fail, then to attempt some rich Towns, according as Captain
Dampier
should think fit: And after that, we were at the usual time of the Year to go down upon the Coast of
Mexico,
to seek for a great Galleon, which Trades from
Manila,
one of the
Philippine
Islands, to
Acapulco
on the Coast of
Mexico;
and which is commonly reported to be worth thirteen or fourteen Millions of Pieces of Eight. The Reason we did not go to
Buonas Aires,
was because upon our arrival at
Madera,
we had advice that the Galleons before-mentioned were arrived at
Teneriff.
The Success of our other Designs, are set down particularly in the following Relation.
year
1703
On the 30
th
of
April
1703, we sailed out of the
Downs,
and on the 18
th
of
May
anchored at
Kingsale
in
Ireland.
Here we refitted and victualled our Ship; and were joined by another Ship named the
Cinque-ports,
burthen about ninety Tuns, sixteen Guns, and sixty three Men,
Charles Pickering
Captain: And on the 11th of
year
1703
September,
we in company of our Consort Captain
Pckering,
left
Kingsale,
and on the 25th we reached the Island of
Madera,
where we did not anchor, but lay off and on for our Boats, which were sent ashore for some Necessaries. By a good observation I make this Island to lye in the Latitude of 32 d. 20 m.
N.
And Longitude by my account from
London, W.
18 d. 5 m. It is a very pleasant Island, inhabited by
Portugueze;
it abounds in Corn, Wine, Honey, Sugar, Madder, Oranges, Lemons, Pomegranets,
&c.
Having done our Business here, we departed
Sept.
28, and on the 30th saw
Palma
and
Fero,
the two Westermost of the
Canary
-Islands, they being in all seven, so called from
Canaria
the Chief; They are also called
Fortunate,
from their Fruitfulness, being plentiful in several sorts of Commodities, but especially in the Wine called
Canary,
brought from hence in abundance. We did not stop here, but made the best of our way for the
Cape de Verde
Islands; and
October
the 6th saw the Island of
Mayo,
lying in the Latitude of 15 d. 10 m.
N.
and Longitude from
London, W.
24 d. 29 m. The chief o
what this Island produces, is Salt; o
which here is plenty for fetching. W
ay off and on all Night, but could no
year
1703
get off any, because here ran so great a Surf that we durst not venture our Boats ashore. So
October
the seventh, in the Morning, we bore away for the Island St
Jago,
and at Noon anchored at
Prior Bay.
This Bay lies in the Latitude of 14 d. 50 m.
N.
and West from
London
24 d. 47 m.
This is one of the Southermost and most fruitful of the
Cape de Verde
Islands; it abounding in Hogs, Fowls,
Guinea
-Hens, Monkies, Maiz, Oranges, Lemons, Dates, Water-melons, Plantains, Bonanoes,
&c.
Here is good Water to be had, but troublesome fetching of it; and Wood is very dear, by reason of its scarcity. The Natives of this place were formerly
Portugueze,
who were banished to this place for Murthers, Thefts, and other Villanies; but now they are mostly black, by reason of their Converse amongst their Womenslaves (which are
Guinea Negroes;
) And although they have changed their Colour, yet they still retain their Vices; thieving being commoner here than in any place I have been in; insomuch that they will take your Hat off your Head at Noon-day, although you be in the midst of Company. You must also be very wary how you Trade with them; for if you let them have
your
Goods, before you have
theirs,
you will
year
1703
be sure to lose them. At this place we was ter'd our Ship and refresh'd our selves; and here being some Disagreement between our Captain and first Lieutenant, our Captain turned him ashore with his Chest and and Cloaths and Servant, much against both their Wills, about twelve at Night. At four the next Morning, it being the 13th of
October,
we parted from the said Island, not fully resolved what place to touch at next. On
October
the 22d (being in the Latitude of 6 d. 36 m.
N.
and Longitude from
London W.
about 19 d. 57 m.) we caught four Fish; a Shark, a Dolphin, a Jelly-fish and an Old-wife.
The
Shark
See FIG. I.
is a very ravenous sort of Fish: Those that we catch at Sea, are commonly about five or six Feet in length; they have a great wide Mo
h, with three and sometimes four rows of Teeth, very sharp and jagged like a Sawe. It is so fierce a Fish, that when it wants its Prey, it will seize upon any thing, and make nothing of taking off a Man's Leg at a bite or two. He hath two Stones between his Eyes, which are accounted very good if taken inwardly by any one that has the Stone or Gravel. These Stones we commonly take out and give to our Doctor, who makes use of them as he finds occasion: When they are taken out of the Head,
Fig. 1.
A
Shark
drawn on his back, being the posture he is in when he takes his prey, his mouth not appearing in any other posture.
Fig. 2.
2 Dolphins
year
1703
they are a perfect Jelly; but being laid in the Sun and dryed, they look like damp Chalk. The Shark is usually attended with one, two, three, or more small Fish (about the bigness of an ordinary Whiting) which go before him and show him his Prey; They are called Pylot-fish, and look very pretty in the Water; they will play about him, be he never so hungry; and he never offers to prey upon them.
The
Dolphin
See FIG. II.
is between four and five feet in length, some more, some less. It is a very pretty coloured Fish, and very good to eat, but something dry; They feed mostly upon Flying-fish, a sort of Fish about the bigness of an ordinary Herring, and much like one; the
Dolphins
are so nimble, as to catch them when they light in the Water to wet their Wings, or rather Fins. For they can fly no longer than their Wings are wet, but then fall into the Water and mount again. It is very pretty to see what shifts and turns they will make, to get clear of their great Enemy the Dolphin; and rather than be taken by them, they will often fly into a ship; but when they are in, unless they happen to fall into a puddle of Water they cannot fly out again, for want of moisture in their Wings.
year
1703
The
Jelly-fish
See Fig. III.
was about fourteen Inches long, and about 2 Inches deep; with a very sharp set of Teeth, a very curious sparkling Eye, a long extended Mouth, a monstrous high Fin on his Back, being of a slimy substance, only the Ribs which stretched it out (being thirty two in number) were firm and stiff. He had one small Fin under his Jaw, of the same slimy Substance. That part of him which is without small spots, is a perfect green
Jelly,
whence he was called by us a
Jelly-fish:
The rest of him was firm, of a Silver colour, with small spots, and streaks or partings, as is exprest in the
Figure.
The
Old-wife
See Fig. IV.
was a Fish about two foot long, and 9 Inches high; He hath a small Mouth, a large Eye; a great Fin on his back, beginning at the hinder part of his Head, and stretching to his Tail; he hath a large broad Fin on each side near the Gills, with one pretty large one under his Belly; his Body is of a deep Blue, and his Fins of a very light Blue, the ends of which are Yellow. His Body and Head have a great many spots and cross streaks or partings, as is exprest in the
Fig.
There is also another sort of
Old-wife,
such as is described by Captain
Dampier
in his third Volume.
On
November
2
d,
1703, we crossed the Equator, about forty five Leagues to the
Fig. 3.
The Jelly Fish.
Fig. 4.
The Old wife
Fig: 5.
The 3 Islands of
St . Anns
Fig. 6.
A Booby.
year
1703
Westward of the Meridian of the Island St
Jago.
Also this day we saw abundance of Flying-fish. We now found our selves in the S. E. Trade-wind, and met with but little Rains, Tornadoes, Thunder or Lightning to the Northward of the Line.
On
November
8
th,
in the evening, we observed by A Z
th
compass, and found the Variation by a good amplitude to be 5d 20 m Easterly. Latitude by Observation S. 10 d 20 m. and Longitude
West
from the Island St
Jago,
5 d 36 m.
November
10
th
in the morning we observed again by A Z
th
compass, and found Variation by the Medium of 3 A Z
ths
to be 5 d 39 m Easterly. Latitude by Observation S. 13 d 48 m. Longitude from
London West,
31 d 4 m.
November
15
th
we found the variation to be 7 d 44m E. Latitude by Observation S. 20 d 13 m. Longitude from
London
W. 35 d 28 m. This day fourteen or fifteen of our people fell ill of a Fever.
November
19, we anchored at the Islands St
Anns;
which by my account lie in the Latitude of 22 d 20 m 8. Longitude W. from
London
38 d 23 m. and we reckon here about 10 d Easterly Variation. We went ashoar here, intending to wood and water, but could find no Water; so we cut a Long-boat-load of Wood, and came on board again, and got up our Anchors, intending to wood and water at the I
land
Le Grand.
year
1703
There are three of the Islands, called by the name of St
Anns,
not above a Stones cast from each other; they are very full of Wood, as is all the
Brasilian
Coast. These Islands are distant from the Main, about four Miles. This place is very much troubled with Southerly Winds, which blow extraordinarily in gusts; therefore the only way is to lay your best Anchor to the Southward, and all little enough sometimes. The Islands produce nothing but Wood; and have a vast many Sea-fowl upon them by Sailours called
Boobies.
See a draught of the three Islands of St
Anns.
See Fig. V.
The
Booby
See Fig. VI.
is much about the bigness of a Duck; some are quite White, some Grey; They have Feet like a Duck, being a Water-foul; They feed mostly upon Flyingfish, which they catch Flying. I have made many a Meal of this sort of Birds, but it was for want of other Victuals; They taste very Fishy; and if you do not salt them very well before you eat them, they will make you sick; They are so silly, that when they are weary of flying, they will, if you hold out your Hand, come and sit upon it: From thence I conjecture that they are called
Boobies.
November
24
th
we anchored at the Island
Le Grand;
whose Latitude is 23 d 40 m S. Longitude from
London
W. 40 d 24 m. and found here about 11 d E. Variation.
Fig: 7.
PART OF BRAZILE
The Great and Small Bay of LE GRANDE. Part of BRAZILE &c.
year
1703
See Fig. VII.
This is a very woody Island, and hath several very good springs of fresh Water upon it. The soil is black, and the Island is about nine Leagues round, and distant from the Main about three Miles. It is not inhabited by any other than Jaccals, Lyons, Tygers,
&c.
Which in the Night make a most hideous Noise, enough to terrifie any Man. About three Miles from this place is the main Land, all very mountainous and woody, where is a small Town of the
Portugueze
(called by the name of
Le Grand
Town), who come out of the Country for forty or fifty Miles round on Saint
Andrews
day, to pay their Devotions to that Saint, here being a small Church consecrated to his use. They abide here about fourteen Days, and then return to their own Dwellings. Here is Rum, Sugar, and several sorts of Indian Fruits to be had, but very dear by reason of their supplying the Town of St
Pauls
with these Necessaries; near which Town is said to be a Gold-mine, accounted one of the richest yet known. It is distant from the Town of
Le Grand
about three hundred Miles; and is reckoned, by reason of the difficulty of the way and the vast high Mountains that intercept the passage, to be sixty days journey. At this place we wooded, watered, and refitted our Ship. Here our first Lieutenant with eight of
year
1703
our Men,) our Captain and they falling out, went ashoar with their Goods, and left us. Here also
Charles Pickering
Captain of the
Cinque-ports
our Consort (another main Pillar of our Voyage) departed this Life, and his Body was buried ashoar at the Watering-place, with the usual Ceremony of firing of Guns; and Mr
Tho: Stradling
his Lieutenant took command of his Ship. Here is good fishing with the Saine; Fish being very plentiful, and of various sorts, as the
Silver-fish
and several others.
The
Silver-fish
See Fig. VIII
is about twenty Inches long; in height from the top of his Head to the bottom of his Belly eight Inches; he hath five small Fins on the hinder-part of his Head, and one large one reaching from the hindermost of the five small ones to the Tail. He has two midling ones, one on each side near the Gills, and one large one stretching from the middle of the bottom of his Belly to his Tail; which is half-mooned. He has a large Eye, a wide pair of Nostrils, and a small Mouth. It is a very thin Fish, and very bony. He is of a fine transparent White, and thence called by us a
Silver-fish.
December
the 8th, having done our Business here, we departed together with our Consort Captain
Stradling,
not intending to touch any where till our arrival at the
Fig: 8.
A Silver Fish
Fig: 9.
Fig. 10.
The Island of
Juan Ferdenandos
. The place where we waterd
. The Eastmost point seen
. Our first anchoring in ye little Bay
. The Westmost point seen
. The Great Bay of J. Ferdenandos
. An other spring of fresh water
this Great Bay are 2
ry good watering places
Our goeing in to ye Little Bay
Our goeing in to ye G. Bay
year
1703
Island
Juan Fernando's. December
the fifteenth we observed by AZ
th
Compass, and found the variation by a good Amplitude to be 15 d. 58 m. Easterly. Latitude, by Observation
S.
34 d. 00 m. Longitude from
London W.
40 d. 26 m.
December
the 16th, we observed again by AZ
th
Compass, and found variation to be 16 d. 25 m. Easterly. Latitude, 34 d. 35 m.
S.
Longitude from
London W.
41 d. 46 m.
December
the 29th, betimes in the Morning we saw the Islands of
Sibbil de Wards,
which are three in Number, lying in the Latitude of 51 d. 35 m.
S.
Longitude
W.
from
London,
by my account 51 d. 37 m. and had a good Observation by AZ
th
Compass and found Variation to be 24 d. 00 m. Easterly. Captain
Dampier
in his
Voyage round the World,
computes the Longitude of these Islands West from the
Lizard,
to be 57 d. 28 m. The occasion of which difference I suppose to be his having made longer Runs in that Voyage, and so more liable to mistakes of this Nature. Whether there be any Water upon these Islands, I know not; but never did hear of any. From the time of our passing the Latitude of 40 d.
S.
we saw a great many Birds about the Ship. And when we were off the
Sibbil de Ward
Islands, we took one remarkable Bird, which we
year
1703
suppose came from those Islands; It was about the bigness of a Duck, and of a very fine white colour.
See Fig. IX.
His Bill was yellow, and both above and below the Bill were long grey hairs like whiskers; And instead of Feathers, at the bottom of his Eye-lids, he had short stiff hairs, which were black. We did not stop at these Islands, but kept on our way for the South-seas.
January
4
th
1703/4 being in the Latitude of 57 d. 50 m.
S.
we met with a very hard storm of Wind at
S. W.
in which storm we lost Company of our consort, but hoped to find him again at
Juan Fernandoes,
that being the appointed place of Rendezvous.
January
the 8
th
we found the Variation by a good Amplitude to be 25 d. 30 m. Easterly. Latitude by a good Observation,
S.
58 d. 05 m. Longitude from London
West,
66 d, 09 m.
January
9
th,
Captain
Dampier
thinking we were to the Westward of
Cape Horn,
ordered to put the ship about: We had then the Wind at
W. S. W.
and stood away South; but tacking we stood away to the Northward; and at noon had Latitude by Observation
S.
57 d. 10 m. and made Longitude from
London. W.
69 d. 29 m.
January
11
th
betimes in the morning, we saw Land, contrary to all our expectations; which proved to be four Islands lying about five Leagues to the Eastward
year
1703
of the Island
Terra Del Fuego,
or the Land of Fire, so called by the
Spaniards,
the first discoverers of it, because as they past by it they saw a great many Fires, as I suppose, made by the Inhabitants. So we tackt and stood to the Southward, and had Latitude by Observation
S.
55 d. 20 m. and Longitude from
London, W.
73 d. 57 m.
January
14
th,
one of our Men being dead, his things were sold as follows. A Chest, value five Shillings, was sold for three Pounds: A pair of Shooes, value four Shillings and six Pence, sold for thirty one Shillings: Half a pound of Thread, value two Shillings, sold for seventeen Shillings and six Pence.
January
the 20th, we found Latitude by observation
S.
60 d. 51 m. which is the furthest South we ever were; And made Longitude from
London W.
84 d. 01 m. And now being pretty well assured we were about the Cape
Horn,
we tackt and stood to the Northward.
January
the 24th, having made 88 d. 56 m.
W.
Longitude from
London,
and being in the Latitude of 54 d. 36 m. we hauled away
N.
to edge in with the Land.
January
the 28th. we found Variation by Amplitude to be 10 d. Easterly, and had Latitude by observation S. 47 d. 46 m. and Longitude from
London W.
86 d. 23 m.
January
the 31st, we found the Variation to be
year
1703
9 d. 6 m. Easterly: Latitude 42 d. 24 m. S. and Longitude from
London W.
81 d. 45 m.
February
the 4th, we saw the Island
La Moucha,
whose Latitude is 38 d. 30 m.
S.
Longitude from
London W.
77 d. 37 m. and we found the Variation by a good Amplitude just off this Island, to be 8d. 44m. Easterly. This Island is very well inhabited by
Indians,
who are always at Wars with the
Spaniards
(or with any white Men; for they think all white Men are
Spaniards.
) It is a high Island, four Leagues in length, and has many Shoals on the West side, which run a League or more into the Sea. It is distant from the Port of
Valdivia
25 Leagues Northward, and from the River
Imperial
N. N. W.
February
the 5th, we observed by AZ
th
Compass, and found Variation by Amplitude to be 7 d. 02 m. Easterly. Latitude by observation
S.
35 d. 33 m. Longitude from
London W.
80 d. 19 m.
February
the 7th, we saw the Island
Juan Fernando's:
And so stood off and on; but drawing pretty near it, our Captain thought it not to be the right Island; so we tackt and stood to the Eastward: But on
February
the 10th, after we had stood about thirty Leagues to the Eastward, not seeing any Land, we stood back again to the same Island; and passing by the great
year
1703
Bay, we saw our Consort Capt.
Stradling
in the
Cinque-ports,
who had been arrived three Days before; so we anchored in the little Bay in twelve Fathom Water, oazy Ground; but finding it not convenient lying here, we weigh'd and went to the great Bay, where we anchored in 35 Fathom Water, and found Variation to be 6 d. 05 m. Easterly. Latit: of the Bay is 33 d. 50 m. S.
See Fig. X.
CHAP. II.
Description of
Juan Fernando's.
Of the Cabbage-tree. Wild Cats. Goats. The Humming-bird. Description of the Sea-Lion. Of the Seal. Another sort of Silver-fish. A Sea-fight. Departure for the Coast of
Peru.
Sea Coloured red with a multitude of the spawn of Fish. The Port of
Arica.
Arrival at the Island
Gallo.
Its Description. Lion-Lizards.
AT this Island of
Juan Fernando
's we wooded, water'd, heel'd and refitted our Ships. Here Captain
Stradling
and his Crew having some difference, they to the number of forty two went on shoar;
year
1703
so that for two Days, the Ship lay as it were without Men; But by the endeavours of Captain
Dampier
they were again reconciled, and returned aboard their own Ship again.
This Island is so called from the first Discoverer of it, who was a
Spaniard,
named
Juan
or
John Fernando.
It is about fourteen Leagues round; full of high Hills, and small pleasant Valleys. The Woods afford several sorts of Trees, but none fit for Masts. Here are
Pamento
-Trees in abundance, but the Spice was not ripe whilst we were here: Also abundance of
Cabbage-trees,
altho small, yet very good and sweet.
The Cabbage-tree
See Fig. XI.
is of Body small and streight, with several Knots or Joynts about four Inches from each other, like a Bamboe-Cane, void of any Leaves, except at the top; in the midst of which, the Cabbage is contained; which when boiled, is as good as any Garden-Cabbage I ever tasted. The Branches are commonly about twelve or thirteen Feet in length, and about a foot and an half from the Trunk of the Tree they shoot forth Leaves, about four foot long, and an Inch and a half broad. These Leaves grow so regularly that the whole Branch seems but one entire Leaf. The Cabbage when it is cut out from amongst the bottoms of the
g. 11.
The Cabbage Tree
with its red berrys
Fig: 12.
A Silver Fish
Fig: 13.
m ye Mountain of Sama, to ye Mountain
Arica, is 12 Leagues. The Coast from
to ye other is N.E and S.W. This Port
Arica is a good place to anchor in, clear of
ger; and your anchoring place is to leward
ye small Island, and under ye Mountaine of
ca in 8 Fad.m water.
g: 14.
The Island Gallo
Thus appears the Island Gallo, bearing N. diss.e 6 or 7 Leagues. The 3 hummocks at this diss.e looking like 3 Islands.
year
1703
Branches, is commonly about six Inches about, and a foot long; some more, some less; and is as white as Milk. At the bottom of the Cabbage grow great Bunches of Berries, of about six pound weight, in the shape of a bunch of Grapes. Their Colour is red like a Cherry; and the Berries are about the bigness of a black Cherry, with a large Stone in the middle; and they taste much like
English
Haws. We never climb up to get the Fruit or Cabbage, because the Tree is so high, and there is not any thing to hold by; so that a Man would find it a hard matter to get up. For I have seen some of these Trees, after we we have cut them down (which we always do to get the Cabbage) to be ninety or a hundred Feet in length.
There are in this Island a great many
Wild-Cats,
of the finest Colour I ever saw, which were put ashoar here (as I suppose) by the
Spaniards
to destroy the Goats: But their Project has not taken effect; for here are vast numbers of
Goals.
The old ones, both Male and Female, take turns to guard their Young; so that the Cats durst not venture upon the Young, the old ones being always their Guard. I wonder the
Spaniards
should think that by setting Cats ashoar here, they should destroy the Goats; when at the same time there are such vast numbers of
Seales
both young
year
1703
and old, on whom the Cats may more easily prey, because they cannot so well defend their young as the Goats do: I have heard of mad Dogs being put ashoar here by the
Spaniards
for the same intent, but never saw any. Yet if they were, I am apt to believe they would rather prey upon the Seals than the Goats.
Of
Goats,
as I said before, here is great plenty, and especially towards the West part of the Island; they resort thither, by reason there is better Pasture for them. Of these Goats we used to get store; and a Joint of one of them roasted, with about half a foot of our Cabbage boiled makes a very good Meal. I have heard Captain
Martin
tell of some
French
Pirates who were in these Seas, that having been sometime cruizing up and down, and no
meeting with a sufficient Booty, and being every where discovered by the
Spaniards
and out of hopes of getting any more they concluded to come to this Island o
Juan Fernando's,
they being twenty in number, and there to lie nine or ten Months; which accordingly they did, and landed on the West side of the Island▪ then drew there little Armadilla ashoar and in a small time brought the Goats t
be so tame, as that they would many o
them come of themselves to be milked▪ of which Milk they made good Butter an
year
1703
Cheese, not only just to supply their Wants whilst they were upon the Island, but also to serve them long after; and that after they had continued here ten Months, they launched their little Man of War, went upon the Coast of
Peru,
and off the Bay of
Arica
met with a
Spanish
Ship and took her, in which was said to be two hundred thousand Pieces of Eight, with about the value of half as much more in gold double Doubloons.
Birds here are few or none of Note, except the
Humming-Bird,
which is about the bigness of a Bee. It hath a Bill no bigger than an ordinary Pin; his Legs are small, but in proportion to his Bulk; his Feathers are very small, and mostly black. We seldom used to catch or see these Birds, unless toward Evening; and then they would come humming about us: But if it was dark, and we had a Fire, before Morning we should have a hundred of them fly into the Fire.
Of the Sea Inhabitants here are
Seals
in such abundance, that without driving them away, there is no going ashoar. Here are also a great many
Sea-Lyons;
and for Cavallies, Silver-fish, Groopers, Breams and Craw-fish, here is such great plenty, that it is almost incredible.
The Sea-Lyon is so called (as I conjecture) because his roaring is not unlike
year
1703
that of the Lyon; the Head likewise much resembles the Lyon. He hath four large Teeth before; the rest thick, short and stubbed. In this he is like the Lyon; in all other parts quite different; He hath four Fins; the two foremost serve him, when he goes ashoar, to raise the fore-part of his Body, and then he draws the hinder-part after him; the two hinder Fins are of no use to him on Land, but only in the Water. These Creatures are very fat; for which reason we kill'd several of them, and soon made us a Tun of Oil for our Lamps; although most of us, whilst we were here, made use of it in frying of Fish; and indeed it had no unpleasant taste. We killed one which was twenty three Feet in length, fourteen foot and a half round, and cut seventeen Inches deep in fat. They have short Hair, of a light Colour, but lighter when young, than old; For when old, they look more sandy. Their Food is Fish; for their prey is all in the Water, though they generally come on Land to sleep; and then five, six or seven of them will huddle together like Swine, and lie so three or four Days if not molested. They are very much afraid of a Man; and so soon as they see him any thing near, they will make to the Water; for they never go far from it. If they are hard pursued, they will turn about and
year
1703
raise their Body up with their Fore-fins, and face you, standing with their Mouth wide open upon their Guard: So that when we wanted to kill one, to make Oil, we used commonly to clap a Pistol just to his Mouth, as it stood open, and fire it down his Throat; But if we had a mind to have some Sport with him, which we called Lyon-baiting; usually six, seven or eight, or more of us, would go with each a half Pike in his Hand, and so prick him to Death; which commonly would be a Sport for two or three Hours before we could conquer him. And often times he would find us work enough. But he being an unweildy Creature; and we assaulting him both behind, before, and all round; we must needs conquer. Yet he often put us to the run; and sometimes he would run himself, but knew not which way, for we commonly got beeween the Water and him.
The
Seals
are much of the same kind; only their Heads are like a Hounds. They howl like Dogs, when old; and bark like them, when young. They have a very fine Furr; the finest, next the Sable, I ever saw. Some of them are of a bright Silvercolour, some of a Chest-nut. They feed as the Sea-lion, being Both amphibious Creatures; and sleep like them; only when they go, their hinder as well as fore-fins
year
1703
are of use to them. They are about the bigness of a large Mastiff. They are very fat, but not the best Victuals. When they come out of the Sea, they bleat like Sheep for their Young; which, though they are to pass through Thousands both young and old, yet will find out their own Damm to suck; For none of them will suffer any Young to suck them, but only their own. Both young and old love much to lie ashoar; but when beaten by us, they make to the Sea; and a small blow on the Nose soon kills them. I have eaten of these Seals often, but it was to save better Victuals; however they eat tolerably well, to those that are very hungry and have no other Meat. The Lean of the Flesh is black, and of a course Grain.
The
Silver-fish
here,
See Fig. XII.
is quite different from those at
Brasil,
both in shape and substance; This having but six Fins,
viz.
four large ones, two upon his Back, and two opposite under his Belly; and one small one on each side near his Gills. It hath a small Eye, and a great Bottle-nose. It is a very fleshy Fish, and the Flesh is extraordinary white and good; they are commonly about twelve or thirteen Inches long, and about seven Inches deep; with a half-mooned Tail, as is expressed in the Figure.
year
1704
February
the 29th 1704, at Noon we saw a Sail: So we got on board all our People, got up our Yards and Topmasts; and he being pretty near, we clapt our Long-Boat on our Moorings, let slip, and got under sail. He seeing us get under sail, tackt and stood from us; and we made the best of our way after him; and our Consort made what haste he could after us; and about eleven at Night we came close up with him, but did not think convenient to engage till Day. In this chace our Pinnace towed under Water; so we cut her loose. Captain
Stradling
's Boat also broke loose, and in her was a Man and a Dog. At Sun-rise the next Morning, being
March
the 1st, we began to engage the said Ship; which was a
French
Ship of about four hundred Tuns, and thirty Guns, well-mann'd. We fought her very close, broad-side and broad-side, for seven Hours; and then a small Gale springing up, she shear'd off. As for our Consort, he fir'd about ten or twelve Guns, and then fell a Stern, and never came up again during the Fight. We had nine of our Men killed in the Fight, and several wounded. We were desirous to have the other Tryal with him, knowing it would be of dangerous Consequence to let him go; for if we did, we were sure he would discover us to the
Spaniards,
which would
year
1704
be of ill Consequence to our whole Proceedings: But our Captain was against it, saying, that at the worst, if the
Spaniards
should know of our being in those Seas, and so should hinder their Merchant-ships from coming out, yet that he knew where to go and could not fail of taking to the value of 500000
l.
any Day in the Year. Upon this we lay by for our Consort, who soon came up; And it was quickly agreed between the two Captains to let her go. So the Enemy stood from us, I suppose very well satisfied that he had disappointed us both: And we were very much dissatisfied that we should suffer our selves to be so baffled in our first Attempt: But however, since it was so, we concluded to return to
Juan Fernando
's, to get our Anchors, Cables, Long-boats, and several Tun of Water casked, with a Tun of Sea-Lions Oyl, which we had left there: And Captain
Stradling
had left five of his Men, who were gone to the West part of the Island, and knew nothing of our going out after the Enemy. He had also left behind him all his Sails, except those at the Yards, with a great many other Stores. Accordingly we stood away towards the said Island; and on the 3d saw the Island bearing South, distant about nine or ten Leagues. We had then the Wind at South, right off the Land; so that we found it
year
1704
very difficult to get up with it. But it falling calm, the
Cinque-ports
put out her Oars, and rowed towards the Island. Presently after which, we saw two Sail. The
Cinque-ports
was pretty near them, and they fired at her several shots; but she rowed away to us, and gave us an account that they were two
French
Ships, each of about thirty six Guns: So the two Captains thought it convenient not to go in, but to go away for the Coast of
Peru;
leaving behind Capt.
Stradling
's five Men, with other Necessaries that we could ill spare: For now we had neither of us any Boats. However, according to their Agreement, on
March
the 6th, we stood away for the Coast of
Peru;
and on the 11th fell in with the Land; it being very high, three rows of Hills one within another; that towards the Water lowest, and that towards the Land highest. We were then in the Latitude of 24 d. 53 m. S. From thence we coasted along shore to the Northward; and on the 14th past by the Port of
Copiapo,
whose Latitude is 21 d. 00 m. S. We observed here, and found the Variation by AZ
th
Compass to be 2 d. 50 m. Easterly.
This is said to be a very good Port, and to be fenced from almost all Winds. Near to the Port are four or five Rocks; and within Land it is inhahited by
Indians,
who
year
1704
make good Wine. Here is said also to be good Meat, Corn, and other Necessaries. In this Port they load Wine, Money, and other Goods for
Coquimbo.
We would very willingly have gone ashoar here to have got some Refreshment, but could not for want of Boats. The Land continues to be very high and mountainous, so that I think it is the highest Land I ever saw. We kept still cruizing down along shore.
The 19th Instant, our Men being all at Dinner, and our Ship about ten Leagues off Shore, going with a fine fresh Gale of Wind at East, we were suddenly surprized with the change of the Colour of the Water, which looked as red as Blood to as great a distance as we could see, which might be about seven or eight Leagues. At first we were mightily surprized; but recollecting our selves, we sounded, but had no Ground at one hundred and seventy Fathom. We then drew some Water up in Buckets, and poured some into a Glass. It still continued to look very red, till about a quarter of an Hour after it had been in the Glass; when all the red Substance floated at top, and the Water underneath was as clear as usual. The red which floated at top, was of a slimy Substance, with little Knobs; and we all concluded it could be nothing but the Spawn
year
1704
of Fish. VVe were now in the Latitude of 16 d. 11 m. South, and had Variation 00 d. 48 m. Easterly; having past by three noted Ports,
viz. Arica, Ylo,
and
Attiquipa.
The Port of
Arica
is in the Latitude of 18 d. 20 m. S. Longitude from
London
by my Account
W.
72 d. 20 m. and just off it we found 1 d. 27 m. Easterly Variation: This Port of
Arica
is a very good Port, and it is the Embarcado to most of the Mine-Towns of
Peru:
It is a place of vast Trade and extraordinarily well-peopled. It is said to be seldom without Shipping, altho' we saw none there at our passing by. On the South side of the Harbour is a pretty Town, situated on each side of a River, called after the name of the Town of
Arica;
and near the Town is a great Mountain, called the Mountain of
Arica,
under which the Shipping commonly lie in eight fathom Water; And at the other end of the Bay is another Mountain, called the Mountain of
Sama,
under which Mountain are four whitish Cliffs; And between the two Mounts of
Sama
and
Arica,
are three Rivers: The Northermost is called the River of
Sama,
the middlemost the River of
John Deus;
And, as I said before, the other, the River of
Arica;
on the Banks of which the said Town is situated.
See Fig. XIII
As we past by, I took a Draught
year
1704
of the Harbour. As for
Ylo
and
Attiquipa
I shall say little of them, till I come to speak of them in my Description of the Coast of
Chili, Peru
and
Mexico.
From the Latitude of 16 d. 11 m. S. where we met the red Water, we kept still standing away to the Northward: And on the 22d of
March,
found our selves just off
Lima,
the Capital City of the two great Empires of
Peru
and
Chili.
Here we furled all our Sails to our Main-Sail, because we would not be seen by the
Spaniards;
and laid our Ship by, intending to watch all Ships going in or out. At five in the Morning we made Sail again, and before we were aware, had like to have been upon the Rocks of
Ormigas.
These Rocks are distant from the Island
Calan
(which is the Port for
Lima
) about eight Leagues; and they bear from each other S. S. E. and N. N. W. They are large Rocks, and in the middle of them are some Bays; about which is said to be abundance of good Fish, so that the Fishermen come to these Rocks a fishing. Here They likewise make abundance of Sea-fish-Oil. Having narrowly escaped these Rocks, we stood away to the Northward, and soon descryed two Sail. We presently made a clear Ship, and gave chase, and soon came up with the stern-most; she proved to be the Ship we fought with off the Island
Juan
year
1704
Fernando's,
and was now just off the Port of
Lima,
into which she was bound to trade: We were very eager to stop her going in; for if we could, it would hinder the
Spaniards
from having Intelligence of us. Besides, we did not question the taking of her, because now our Men were all in Health, whereas when we fought her before, we had between twenty and thirty Men very sick and weak; but being willing to show themselves, they had done what good they could. We knew also, if we took her, that she must needs prove a good Prize: And her Guns, Ammunition, and Provisions, would have been very welcome to us. So we concluded to engage her our selves, and to send Captain
Stradling
after the other, which seemed not so big. But our Captain thought it not advisable to venture upon her: And whilst the Matter was disputing, the two Ships got into
Lima;
from whence I question whether twenty such Ships as ours could have forced them out.
Being therefore very much discontented, we again stood along shore to the Northward; and the next Day in the Morning, being
March
the 24th, we saw a Sail which we gave chase to, and came up with her, and took her without any resistance; She
year
1704
proved to be a
Spanish
Ship of about 150 Tuns, laden, as far as we could perceive, with Snuff,
Flanders
-Lace, VVoollen-Cloth wrought and unwrought, Silk, Pitch, Tar, Tobacco, Turtle-shell, Bees-wax, Soap, Cinamon,
Jamaica
Pepper, Jars of Balsom of
Peru,
a few Planks, and a pretty good Sum of Money. We kept her with us till
March
the 30th, and then having taken out a little of every thing, our Captain discharged her, alledging that, if we kept her, it would be a hindrance to his greater Designs. We were forced to be as well content as we could. So they stood for
Lima
whereunto they were bound; and we stood along shore to the Northward; and the next Morning by break of Day we found our selves just aboard of a strange Ship, which we soon took, not firing above 3 Guns: She was a new Ship of about two hundred Tuns, and sailed very well, considering her built; She was laden with several very good Commodities, as Indico, Cochineel,
&c.
We were now just off the Port of
Paita,
whose Latitude is 5 d: 15 m. South; its Longitude from
London
I reckon to be VVest 85 d. 37 m. and we found Variation by a good Amplitude just off the Harbour, 2 d. 47 m. VVesterly. A further Description of the Coasts. I took a Draught, as we lay off the Harbour;
year
1704
but not seeing any Ships, we did not go in, but still coasted away to the Northward. On the 4th of
April
this second Prize, after we had taken out a few odd Things, was, contrary to most of our Minds, dismist; the Captain alledging, that he would not cumber up his Ship, for that he intended to make a Voyage at one stroke upon some rich Town, on which he had a speedy Design.
On the fifth of
April
we began to prepare for our intended Action, our Carpenters fixing our two Launches or
Spanish
Long-Boats with two Patereroes to each Launch. On the 11th, being just in sight of the Island
Gallo
(which at a distance looks like three Islands,) we saw a Sail, came up with her, and soon took her: She was a Bark of about fifty Tuns, laden with Plank; and had a considerable quantity of Turtle-shell on board. At first sight of us, their Men had all took to their Boat, and got ashore. This Bark our Captain intended to keep for the design in Hand; and the next Day, being
April
the 12th, we anchored at the Island
Gallo,
See Fig XIV
whose Latitude is 2 d. 45 m. Northward: Longitude from
London
W. 76 d. 38 m. and we found Variation 4 d. Westerly.
It is distant from the Main about five Leagues. It is in length about two
year
1704
Leagues, in breadth one. This is a very noted Island: When you are to the Southward of it, it appears in three Hummocks, which at a distance look like three Islands; and the Land between each Hummock, is very low. But when you are to the N. W. of it, at the South end you will see a small Island, or rather Rock, which looks very much like a Ship under sail; And when you are at the North end, you will so open the Land, as that you will see part of it does not join to the Island, as it seems to do when you are to the VVestward of it. At the N. E. end of this Island are three small Islands, or rather Rocks; the one of which is pretty high, and at a distance looks like a Barn; and the other two look like two Sail of Ships. At this Island you may see the main Land, which is very low near the VVater-side, but prodigious high up into the Country. Here we anchored in thirty five Fathom Water two Cables length from the shore, hard Sand. We anchored in the N. W. part of the Island; the Northermost Point bearing N. half W. Southermost Point S. W. The Wateringplace goes in with a small Gap; over which upon the Hill is a plain Spot of red Earth, bearing N. W. half N. Though there are also several other good VVatering-places upon this Island. And in the N. E. part at
Segnetta
is the best anchoring. Here
year
1704
you may wood and water very secure from any Enemy; and if occasion be, you may hale your Ship ashore and clean her. For it is very good Sandy. Ground, and the Water at Spring-tides rises and falls fourteen or fifteen foot. The Island is very woody, affording large Timber, which is often sent in shipping up to the Coast of
Peru.
Here are some few wild Monkies, with abundance of Lizards; and a large sort of Lizard called a Lion-Lizard.
They are about the bigness of a Man's Arm. I measured one, which from the Head to the end of the Tail, was three foot eleven Inches. He has a large sort of a Comb upon his Head, which stands up like a Helmet or Head-piece to defend his Head. When he is assaulted or frightned, he sets his Comb up an end; but otherwise it lies down flat in a deep Dent in his Head, just fitted to it; so that when it is down, it can hardly be perceived. He has two very large Eyes; a large Mouth, with a great many fine small sharp Teeth. His Skin is very tough, of a sad Colour; full of black, yellow and blueish Spots: In all other things he resembles the common Lizard. When they are pursued, they will run very swift; yet our Dog used often to catch them. About six Leagues to the S. S. W. of this Island, is a small Island, or rather Rock, called
Gorgonilla;
year
1704
and not far of, is the Island
Tumaco.
Hereabouts upon the Main are a great many Rivers, which make the Currents very uncertain about this Island.
On
April
the 17th, having lain here five Days, just as we were going to get up our Anchors, we saw a Sail standin for the Island. So we lay still till she was pretty near in, and then we all three got under Sail,
viz.
our selves, the
Cinqueports,
and a small
Spanish
Bark whom we took six Days before. She stood boldly to us; and we soon, contrary to their expectation, made a Prize of them. They were going for the River
Tumaco,
to get some Provisions there; but as they past by, seeing us, and not hearing of an Enemy's being in the Seas, but thinking us to be
Spaniards,
they made towards us, being in hopes to get some Provisions of us for their Money; but on the contrary, they lost both themselves, their Vessel and Money. She was a small Vessel of about fifty Tuns, in her Balast; commanded by an half
Indian.
They had on Board a
Guernsey
Man, whose Name I have forgot. He was taken in the Bay of
Campeachy,
having strayed from his Companions, cutting of Logwood. He was sent Prisoner to
Mexico,
where after he had been imprisoned for two Years, upon his turning Roman Catholick, he was at liberty either
year
1704
to stay in
Mexico,
or to go aboard any Ship belonging to the
Spaniards
in the South Seas: But they would not let him come any nearer the North Sea, for fear he should make his escape. So he being a Sea-faring Man, thought it most convenient to go on board some Ship, where we found him. He was very glad he was released from the
Spaniards;
for had we not met with him, he must probably have continued there all Days of his Life.
CHAP. III.
Departure from
Gallo.
Design upon the Town of
Sancta Maria.
Cape
Corrientes.
Point
Garachina.
Attempt upon
Santa Maria.
How it miscarried. A Prize taken very seasonably, when we were in great want of Provisions. The two Captains part company. The Island
Iguanos
described. Departure for the Coast of
Peru.
Another Prize taken. The River of St
Jago.
The Bay of
Sardinas.
Alligators described. Cape
St Francisco.
The Island of
Plata.
The great City of
Guiaquil.
A Dangerous Sea-Fight. Point
Gallera.
The Bay of
Tacames.
Coco-Tree and Nut described. Plantain describ'd. Bonanoes described. The Bay of
St Matthew.
Departure from the Bay of
Tacames
for the Gulf of
Nicoya.
FRom
Gallo,
we stood along to the Northward; our Captain letting us know, that his design was upon the Town of
Santa
year
1704
Maria;
where we did not question but to get Gold enough, because it is the first place that they send all the Gold to, which they dig out of Mines not far from
Santa Maria:
The last Vessel we took, sailing very heavy; and knowing it would be a hinderance to our design; we sunk her. The Captain of her, after some fair Promises that we would give him a better, and that if we succeeded in our attempt on the Town of
Santa Maria
we would satisfie him otherwise to his Hearts Content, promised he would be our Pilot up to
Santa Maria.
So preparing for our intended Enterprize, we sailed along shore to the Northward; and in our way, passed by Cape
Corrientes,
and several other noted places.
This Cape
Corrientes
lies in the Latitude of 5 d. N. It is a very high Land; and when you are at Sea, it looks like an Island, by reason the Land near it at the Sea side is not so high. On the top of the Cape-land are three Hillocks. It is a very good Coast, and clear from Rocks and Shoals, and almost steep. From hence we proceeded on for Point
Garachina.
Since we left the Island of
Gallo,
we had fine fresh Gales of Wind, commonly at S. W. and S. S. W. On the 25th of
April,
(having past by several good Ports, as Port
Santa Clara,
Port
Quemado,
Port
year
1704
Pinas,
and several others; (of which I shall speak in my Description of the Coasts;) we anchored at Point
Garachina,
in eighteen Fathom Water, claiey Ground, distant from the Point two Miles
I make this Point of
Garachina
See Fig. XV.
to lie in the Latitude of 7 d. 20 m. N. and distant from Port
Pinas
seven Leagues; and from the Island
Gallera,
six Leagues N. W. You may sail very well between the Island
Gallera
and the Main; but have a great care of a shoal of Sand which lies midd-way, and on which many good Ships have been lost: But it is something dangerous to sail between the Island
Gallera
and the
Kings Islands;
for there are many Rocks, and if the Water should abate, you must of necessity return to Point
Garachina.
Point
Garachina
makes the South Point of the Gulf of St
Michael,
as Cape St
Laurenzo
makes the North.
Into this Gulf we were bound. So having laid here two Days, on the 27th one hundred and two of our Men with Captain
Dampier
and Captain
Stradling
in our Bark with three
Spanish
Launches went from our Ships, which we left at Point
Garachina
with sixty Men to guard them, with positive Orders not to remove from the place where we left them till our return; and we proceeded on our intended Expedition for
Santa Maria.
At eight at Night we anchored
Fig: 15.
oint Garachina Lat. 7: 20 North
Thus Showeth point Garachina, bearing N, dist: 2 Leagues.
Thus Showeth point Garachina, bearing N.W: dist: 5 Leagues.
The Island Gallera, N ¼ E, dist: 1 League.
Gallera S.E. dist: 4 Leagues.
Fig: 17.
The Bonano Tree.
Fig: 18.
A Pelican.
Fig: 21.
An Albicore.
Fig: 19.
A Guano.
year
1704
amongst the Islands at the Rivers Mouth, by reason the Tide of Ebb made strongly out, so that we could not go against it. Here we lay all Night, having dark rainy Weather, with much Thunder and Lightning; so that we were all very wet, and had a most uncomfortable Night; for we were forced to lie in all the Rain, having no shelter either in our little Bark or Boats. By Day-light the next Morning, as we lay at anchor, the Tide of Ebb not being done, a Canoa with five
Indians
came within call of us. They hal'd us and ask'd from whence we came: Our
Indian
Pilot, by the Captain's Directions, made answer, that we came from
Panama.
He bid them come on board, but they answer'd they would not: So our Captain ordered them to be fired at, which accordingly was done. Whereupon they made what haste they could from us. One of our Lanches was sent after her, but in vain; for they soon got from us. This was of ill consequence; for we were sure they would discover us to the
Spaniards
at
Santa Maria;
who, we knew, if they heard of an Enemy so near them, would not only lay Ambuscades to annoy us going up the River, but (which was worst of all) would carry all that was valuable out of the Town. So two of our Lanches were immediately sent away with twenty two Hands each (Captain
Stradling
year
1704
commanding them) with the
Indian
Pilot, to take the Town of
Schuchadero:
And Captain
Dampier
and we in the Bark were to follow as soon as the Tide served. Just as our two Lanches entered the River of
Santa Maria,
they saw a Canoa with three
Indians
come out of the River
Congo.
Whereupon our Men put in behind a Point of Land in the River, just by the entrance; so that the
Indians
in the Canoa not having seen them, were upon them before they suspected any thing; and our Men immediately step'd out and seiz'd them. It growing now towards Even, they took one of the Prisoners into the Lanch, and sent the other two in the Canoa, with five of our Men, to seek the Town of
Schuchadero,
which our Captain told them was on the North-side of the River, and about three Leagues within the Mouth. But it being dark, they could not find it. However they heard the barking of a great many Dogs on the other side the River; whence concluding there must be some Town, they immediately put over for the other side. As soon as they approached near the Town, the two
Indians
which were in the Canoa with our five Men for the Out-scout, jumped over-board, and we lost them. Immediately one of our Men in the Canoa, snatched up his Gun and fir'd at one of the
Indians:
Whether
year
1704
he shot him or no, we cannot tell; but as soon as he had fired, there was another Gun fired from the Shoar. Upon which our Men fired a Volley, and landed, and went to the Town, which stood near the water-side, and took it without any resistance; all the people being fled at our first Gun firing, knowing they were not strong enough to resist us: For no doubt they had Intelligence by the Canoa which escap'd us at the Rivers Mouth. In the Town our Men found abundance of Fowls, Maiz, Beans, Yams, Potatoes,
&c.
but little else. The next Morning, being
April
the 27th, Captain
Stradling
sent the Canoa to see for
Ʋ s
in the Bark: For after they were gone to take the Town, as soon as the Tide of Flood began, we got under sail, intending to be soon after them. But mistaking the Rivers-mouth, we ran past it; and not finding any other way to go in, we came to an anchor, and so were forced to lie all Night, and the next Day till Noon, the time of the Sea-breeze; at which time we met a Canoa coming out, which at first we suspected to be Enemies, but found they were our own Men; who gave us an account of the taking of the
Indian
Town aforesaid, and that in the Canoa they took a Pacquet of Letters: The Letters were immediately opened; and in them was found as follows:
From the President of
year
1704
Panama
to the Governour of the Town of
Santa Maria: That
this was to let him know he had advice that two hundred and fifty
English
from
Jamaica
had landed on the North-side of the
Isthmus,
and had a design upon the said Town of
Santa Maria,
and that it was seven Days since he had sent four hundred Soldiers to reinforce them at
Santa Maria,
and that he did not question but by the time he received the Letters they would be with him:
That
he would have him always keep himself upon his Guard, till this Advice was either disproved or confirmed.
By that time we had read this Pacquet, we were up as high as the Town that we took, which we called
Schuchadero,
there being another of the same Name on the North-side against it; and came to an anchor just in four fathom Water. The next Day in the Afternoon, which was
April
the 30th, Captain
Dampier
and Captain
Stradling,
with three Launches and the Canoa with eighty seven of our Men, proceeded for
Santa Maria:
And our chief Mate and my self, with thirteen Hands, were left to guard the Bark, with Orders not to stir from the place where we lay, till our Mens return; which was soon afterwards: For about twelve this Night they returned on board, frustrated of their Design. Our Men gave us an account, that they were up within a quarter of a Mile of the Town; that they
year
1704
were assaulted by three Ambuscades, in which one of our Men was killed, and several wounded; that our Men beat them from their Ambuscades, and would willingly have put ashoar; but Captain
Dampier
advis'd, that since the
Spaniards
knew of our coming, and had had so much time as to provide Ambuscades for us, it could not be doubted but they had made the best use of their time, and had taken care to convey their Wives and Children and all that was valuable, out of the Town; which is always the first thing they do when they hear of an Enemy: So it was resolved to return to us at
Schuchadero.
And on
May
the 1
st,
betimes in the Morning, we left
Schuchadero,
and went down the River in order to return on board our Ships, which we left at Anchor at Point
Garachina.
At our return on board,
May
the 6
th,
we were so scant of Provisions, that there were five green Plantains order'd to be boiled for every six Men: But to our great comfort, when we were almost at our Wits-end, we descried a Sail at 12 this Night, who came to an Anchor close by us. We soon got up our Anchor, and took her without any resistance. This was a great Ship, of about 550 Tuns. She was deeply laden with Flower, Sugar, Brandy, Wine, about 30 Tuns of Marmalet of Quinces, a considerable quantity of Salt,
year
1704
with some Tuns of Linnen and Woollen-Cloth; so that now we might supply our selves with Provisions for four or five Years. I was put on board this Prize in behalf of Captain
Dampier
and our Ship's Company; and the Master of the
Cinqueports
was put on board, as Chief for Captain
Stradling
and their Ship's Company. Then we sunk our Bark which had carried us up to
Santa Maria,
and with our two Ships and great Prize stood a-cross the Bay of
Panama
to the Westward, amongst the
Kings
or
Pearl Islands. May
the 12th, we saw the
Kings Island,
bearing N. dist. 4 Leagues. The 13th we anchor'd in the Bay of
Panama,
the Island
Tabago
bearing N. dist. 4 Leagues; the
Kings Island
E. S. E. dist. 8 Leagues. The 14th we weighed and ran nearer to the Island
Tabago;
and brought it to bear N. by E. dist. three Leagues. Here we anchor'd on purpose to romage our Prize. The 15th, 16th, 17th and 18th, vve continued taking Provisions out of her, as Wine, Brandy, Sugar, Flower,
&c.
And on the 18th a small Bark of about 30 Tuns coming in sight, vve sent our Long-boat and Canoa and took her. She had little in her, only a small quantity of Money. This Bark Captain
Stradling
kept for his ovvn use.
Here our Captain and Captain
Stradling
having some disagreement, concluded
year
1704
to part Company; which accordingly they did; and the Men of each Ship had their liberty to go in vvhich Ship they thought convenient. So five of our Men vvent to Captain
Stradling,
and five of his came to us. We vvere told by the Prisoners, that there vvere 80000 Dollars on board our Prize; that they vvere taken in by stealth at
Lima,
and lay at the bottom in the Run of the Ship. Our Captain did not believe this; and vvas unvvilling to tarry longer, that vve might have romaged her to the bottom; because he thought loss of time vvould spoil his greater Designs. Having therefore taken out a quantity of Provisions, she vvas dismiss'd; And vve, on the 19th of
May,
parted from the
Cinque-ports,
intending to beat up upon the Coast of
Peru
again; and this day passed by the Island
Iguanos.
This Island is not very high. It is very vvoody, and has a very good anchoringplace over-against the main Land in 18 Fathom Water. Here is also very good fresh Water; and if occasion be, you may haul your Ship ashoar and clean: For the Water rises and falls ten or eleven Foot; And on the Land-side is good sandy Ground: This will defend you from the S. E.; for these Winds often blow very hard. The Marks of this Island are, that to the S. W. is
Punta-mala
or bad Point. You must not
year
1704
come near it; for it hath a great many Rocks and Shoals which come near a League into the Sea. From this
Puntamala
we stood away to the Southward for the Coast of
Peru:
And on the twenty ninth of
May
we saw Land, which proved to be the Island of
Gallo.
From
Punta-mala,
and during our stay in the Bay of
Panama,
we had for the most part dirty squally weather, with much Thunder and Lightning, and very uncertain Gales, but mostly between the South and the West. We stood off and on for five Days, endeavouring to weather the Island
Gallo;
but here being a strong Current setting to the Northward, we found it difficult to do: Yet after much turning, on the 4th of
June
we weather'd it, and proceeded along the Shore for the Coast of
Peru.
On
June
the 7th we saw a Sail, gave chase, came up with her and took her: she was about 100 Tuns, came from
Truxillo,
and was bound for
Panama;
laden with Flower, Sugar, Brandy,
&c.
with some Bales of wrought Silk in her. We took a Packet, which we open'd; The first Letter vve happen'd to read, vvas from the Captain of the
French
Ship vve fought off the Island
Juan Fernando's,
and met with again off the Port of
Lima;
It vvas directed to the President of
Panama,
and gave an
year
1704
account, That
he fought two English Privateers off the Island
J. Fernandoes; That
the smallest of the two fired but eight or ten Guns at him, and then fell a-stern, and did not come up again during the Fight; as he believed, for want of Wind;
That
the great Ship
(meaning us)
fought him Broad-side ond Broad-side for more than six Hours;
That
we kill'd them a great many Men; and that at his coming to
Lima,
he sent ashore thirty two of his Men, each of which had either lost a Leg or an Arm or an Eye:
and
That it was a great chance we had not taken him; for that at our parting they had given themselves over as lost, not having Men to defend themselves.
We also had account by other Letters, That the two
Frenchmen,
which we saw off the Island
Juan Fernando's,
had met with a Boat at Sea, in which there was an
Englishman
and a Dog: This was the Boat which belonged to Captain
Stradling,
and which broke loose from him as we chas'd the
French
Ship off
Juan Fernando's:
That the said two
French
Ships had been in at
Juan Fernando's,
and had taken up our Anchors, Cables, Long-boat, with all Captain
Stradling
's Stores, and his five Men, and our Negro which was left there. We also had advice that the
Spaniards
had fitted out two Men of War against us; the one of 32 brass Guns, 24 Pounders each; the other of 36 Guns, of the some bigness;
year
1704
That each of them had 350 Seamen, and 150 Soldiers, choice Men; and they lay cruising for us in the Bay of
Guiaquil,
between Point
St Hellena
and
Cape Blanco.
From the 7th to the 12th, we were forced to go away with an easie Sail, because of our Prize, who sail'd very heavy. And seeing it was likely to be a great hindrance to us in beating to Windward, we concluded to go into some place to romage her. Accordingly on the 12th we went into
Sardinas
Bay, and anchor'd with our Prize in ten fathom Water, about four Miles off Shore. We durst not venture any further in, by reason of so many Shoals and Banks of Sand which lie off it. The Sea-Coast here, is inhabited by
Indians,
but they are not very numerous. Here are several small Rivers, which run with fresh Water down to the Sea-side. And from this place, by the Sea-side, all along to the Southward, till you come to the Bay of
Tacames,
are white Cliffs, and many Shoals, as far as to Point
Gallera.
From this Bay of
Sardinas,
six Leagues to the Southward, is the great River of
St Jago;
the Mouth of which is said to be
of a Mile over; but in it is no good anchoring, until you are got well within the Mouth; and if you must needs go into the River, keep near the Land on the South side. This River is seldom made use of by Shipping; it lying out of the way;
year
1704
only in case of necessity, or by chance, they put in for refreshment; for here is plenty of all sorts of Provisions. It hath on the Sea-side 14 or 15 pieces of broken Ground, of a whitish colour; and at the North-end of them is the Bay of
Sardinas,
wherein we careen'd our Ship, and romaged our Prize, and water'd at one of the fresh-water Rivers; the Water of which was white like Milk, and both smelt and tasted very strong of Musk, occasioned by the many Alligators swimming in the River.
We shot several of them, one of which measured thirty Feet in length, and was bigger about than a large Bullock. He is very full of great Scales, from the Neck to the end of his Tail. He has a very large sharp set of Teeth, with very long Claws on his Feet. It is an amphibious Creature, living on Land as well as in the Water. When they are lying on shore, they look like a great fallen down Tree; and for such, One would take them at a distance. They will run very fast on the Land; and are of such strength, that they will take a Horse or Cow and carry it down to the Water, and there devour it. They will seize on any thing as well on Land as in the Water; and commonly make great havock amongst Cattle, if there be any near the place where they Harbour, which is commonly in fresh Water Rivers.
year
1704
The
Indians
are not greatly afraid of them, neither in the Water nor on Land. If they are pursued by them on Land, they run in a Circle; and this great Creature is not able to turn his unweildy Body so quick, but that they easily get from him. The
Indians
likewise go into the Water to seek them, with a piece of Iron like a Harpoon at both ends, and two pieces of Iron a-cross: This they hold by the middle in their Hand; and the Alligators, when they bite, raise their Head out of the Water:
Then the
Indians
hold out this piece of Iron to them, at which they bite, and it fastens in their Mouth and keeps it open like a Gag. These Creatures lay Eggs about a hundred at a time; Their Eggs are about the bigness of a Goose's, but the Shell is almost as thick as an Ostridge's. I have seen many of them. They are quite round; although Captain
Dampier
in Vol. II. Part. II.
page
75, says, that these Eggs are longer than a Goose's; which I suppose he took only upon Hear-fay. The Flesh of the Alligators is not fit to be eaten, it being very strong and musky; nay the very Water of the Rivers which they were in, tasted so strong of them, that is, of Musk, that a Draught of it would almost suffocate us. By the Rivers side here were about fourteen or fifteen
Indian
Fishermen's Houses, who, as I suppose,
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1704
were fled for fear of us: For we could not see any of them, all the time of our stay here.
On the 19th, having done all our business here, and dismist our Prize, after having taken a few odd things out; we departed from this place, and stood to the Southward for the Coast of
Peru;
and the Prize stood to the Northward for
Panama,
being the place whereto she was bound. The 21st we saw a Sail, being then off Cape St
Francisco;
but in the Night, lost her again. This Cape St
Francisco,
is a high Cape; but far higher within Land, than it is near the Water-side. When you are North or South from it, it seems like three Capes. It is a woody mountainous Land, and has white Cliffs. It lies in the Latitude of 1 d. N. Longitude from
London
West 81 d. 50 m. and we found the Variation to be 3 deg. 57 min. Westerly. On the 25th, we saw the Sail, we had seen the other Day; we soon came up with her, and took her. She was a small Bark, of about forty five Tuns, came from
Ria Lexa,
and was bound for
Guiaquill,
laden with Pitch, Tar and Cordage; And after we had taken out a small quantity of each, she was dismissed. On the 8th of
July,
we saw the Island of
Plata,
bearing E. S. F. distance five Leagues. This Island lies in the Latitude of
d.
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1704
14 m. S. and from Cape St
Laurenzo
S. E. It is a pretty high Island, but highest at the North end. At some time of the Year here is said to be plenty of very good Turtle; and on it are some small Trees or rather Bushes, not fit for any use. It is all round steep Rocks, unless near the anchoring place, which is on the East-side; And at both the North and South Points there are small steep Rocks and Shoals, which stretch out into the Sea for a Mile or two. Upon this Island is said to be no fresh Water.
From hence we stood to the Southward, and on the 11th fell in with Point
Saint Hellena.
This Point is distant from the Island of
Plata
eighteen Leagues. It is high Land, and at a distance looks like an Island, because the Land to the Northward is lower than it. This Point is the North Point of the Bay of
Guiaquil,
as Cape
Blanco
is the South Point. In this Bay is the great Town or City of
Guiaquil,
which is said to consist of nine hundred and fifty
Spanish
Houses, besides
Indians;
and to have five Parish Churches, besides private Chapels. It has a Governour, who is next to the President of
Panama,
although under none but the Vice-roy of
Peru.
It is said to be pretty well fortified, to hinder the approach of an Enemy; having two Forts, the one standing at
year
17
the South end of the Town, and the other upon a Hill.
On the 21st we saw a Sail, and stood towards her; and next day, being
July
the 22d, came up with her. She proved to be one of the
Spanish
Men of War which was fitted out on purpose to take us. This was the Ship of thirty two Guns. We being pretty near each other, they gave us a broad-side, but we did not mind them; all our care was to get the Weather-gage. In order to which, while we carried too much Sail, and the Wind blew very fresh, our fore-top Mast unfortunately came by the board. Immediately we got our Hatchets and cut all clear way, and our Captain ordered the Helm to be clapt a Weather and bore away. The Enemy seeing this, immediately bore away after us with all the Sail they could, hoping to come up and take us; for now they doubted not but they should take us. We observing that our running had increased their Courage, resolved thereupon to lie by, and fight it out. Captain
Dampier
's Opinion was, that we could sail better upon one Mast than the Enemy; and therefore that it was best to put before the Wind. But however we being embayed, chose rather to fight, than to be chased ashoar. So hoisting the bloody Flag at our Main-top-mast Head, with a
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1704
resolution neither to give nor take Quarter, we began the fight, and went to it as fast as we could load and fire. The Enemy kept to windward at a good distance from us, so that we could not come to make use of our small Arms; But we divided the two Watches, and one was to manage the great Guns, whilst the other looked on; and when those at the great Guns were weary, the other were to take their places, till they had refresh'd themselves. Thus we fired, I believe, five Guns to his one. We fired about 560, and he about 110 or 115; and we fought him from twelve at Noon to half an hour past six at Night, although at a good distance; for he kept so far to windward of us, that our shot sometimes would hardly reach him, tho' his would at the same time fly over us. At half an hour past six, it growing duskish, they left off firing, and we did the same. We had by good Providence none of our Men either kill'd or wounded by the Enemy; only two thro' carelesness had their Hands and Faces blasted; but in a small time they both recovered. After our fight was over, we got a spare Main-top-mast which we had between Decks; and our Carpenters went to work to fix it; it being of it self too big for a Fore top-Mast. VVe lay by all the Night, and in the Morning betimes looked out for our Enemy
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1704
expecting to have the other Battle with him; but contrary to our expectations, he had made Sail from us in the Night. Our Captain upon this, resolved to quit the Coast of
Peru,
and told us he design'd to go into the Bay of
Tacames,
where he did not doubt but we should get Provision enough; for now we had little besides Flower. We were pretty well contented, and stood away for the said Bay; and on the 28th of
July
we passed by the Point of
Gallera.
This Point is low towards the Sea-side, and plain even Ground on the top. You must steer N. E. keeping off from it about a Mile to Leeward, by reason of a Shoal which lies off it, which Shoal is full of Rocks and Stones, and lies all hid under Water. And in the Point is a Bay of Sand, which you may see when you come in with your Ship within the Point; and coming over the said Bay, you will see a little Lake of fresh Water running into the Sea; and when the Tide is at the highest, the Salt Water runs into it. Wherefore if you would take in fresh Water here, you must take care to go to the right of the said Spring, and you will come to the Head of it, where you will find excellent good Water in a Pond, near unto a pleasant Grove of Trees, about a Musket-shot within Land. But you must be sure to go well
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1704
armed, when you fetch it. For there commonly come down
Indians,
who are always at War with the
Spaniards,
and will rob and kill any white Men, thinking all white Men to be
Spaniards.
Here is said to be abundance of Ostridges and wild Asses.
We passed by this Point of
Gallera,
and the same Day anchored in the Bay of
Tacames;
which was the place whereto we were bound, and is distant from the Point of
Gallera
between two and three Leagues. We anchored at this
Tacames
in six fathom Water, Point
Gallera
bearing VV. S. VV. distant between two and three Leagues. At our coming in, we sent our Boat ashore with twenty Men armed, hoping to get some Provisions; but the Inhabitants having notice of an Enemy's being in those Seas, as soon as they saw us, drove the Cattle from the VVater-side up into the Country, and they themselves retired to the Mountains with their VVives and Children and all they had. So our Men went into the Village, which consisted of about fifty
Indian
Houses, deserted by the Inhabitants. Here in the River we found a Bark upon the Stocks a building, of about fifty Tuns; with new Plank enough by her, to build another. And we took another small Bark of about ten Tuns, laden with Plantains. This Bark we intended
year
1704
to keep instead of a Long-boat; she had two Masts and two square Sails, and we named her the
Dragon.
The Road on the Coast of
Tacames,
is lower Land than the Bay of St
Matthew;
it is indifferent clear Ground, but not very deep, where you may anchor near the Mount. And if you do not like to anchor near the Mount, you may anchor where you will by the Main Land on the VVeather-side; and there is VVater enough, and no danger. And if you send your Boat ashoar, you may supply your self with both VVood and VVater. In the River are pleasant Groves of Trees; and it has in the entry of it a little Rock. The Land-marks of the River are, that the Land on the Lee-side is high, and you may see a white spot on it, like a white Sheet.
To the Northward eight Leagues, is the Bay of St
Matthew.
In this Bay is a large River, the breadth of which is three quarters of a Mile; but till you get within the Mouth, you will find no good Anchor-Ground. If you would go into it, keep near the Land on the VVeather or South side: This River is seldom used by the
Spaniards,
but only for Refreshment; for there is plenty of all sorts of Provisions; and if their Ships be out of Repair, they can here have them repaired. Two Leagues
year
1704
up the River are
Indian
People, who sell to the
Spaniards,
when they come here, all sorts of Fruits, as Coco-nuts, Plantains, Bonanoes,
&c.
The Coco-nut-Trees are from 50 to 60, 70, 80 and 100 Foot in height, mostly slender and streight. They have Leaves, some four fathom, and four fathom and a half long, and produce a Nut call'd a Coco-nut; which, with the outer Rind on, is bigger than any Man's Head. The outer Rind being taken off, there appears a Shell, some of which will hold near a Quart. Within the Shell is the Nut; and within the Nut is about a Pint and a half of pure clear VVater, which is very cool, brisk, pleasant and sweet. The Kernel of the Nut is also very good; which if it be pretty old, we scrape all to pieces; the scrapings we set to soak in about a quart of fresh VVater for three or four hours, and then strain the VVater; which when strain'd hath both the colour and taste of Milk: And if it stand a while, it will have a thick scum on it, not unlike Cream. This Milk being boiled with Rice, is accounted by our Doctors to be very nourishing; for which reason we often give o
it to our sick Men. The Leaves of the Tree, serve to thatch Houses; the outer Rind of the Nut, to make Linnen-Cloth: of it they also make Ropes for Ships, a
year
1704
Rigging, Cables,
&c.
which are a good Commodity in most places of the
East-Indies.
The Shell of the Nut will make very pretty Drinking-cups: It will also burn very well, and make a very fierce and hot Fire The Kernel serves instead of Meat, and the Water therein contained instead of Drink: And if the Nut be very old, the Kernel will of it self turn to Oyl, which is often made use of to fry with, but most commonly to burn in Lamps. So that from this Tree, as I may say, they have Meat, Drink, Clothing, Houses, Firing and Rigging for their Ships. These Trees may be known by any Ships passing by; for they are void of Leaves, except just at the top. At the bottom of the Leaves the Coco-nuts grow, 10, 15 or 20 in a cluster; and they hang by a small string, which is full of joynts.
The Plantain-tree, is about 13 or 14 foot in heighth, and about four foot round: The Leaves of the Tree are about eight or nine foot long, and two foot broad, and end in a round Point. The Fruit grows at the bottom of the Leaf, upon a great Stalk, in a Cod of about eight Inches long, and the bigness of a Black-pudding. The Cod is of a fine yellow colour, often speckled with red. The Cod being taken off, the inside of it is white; but the Plantain it
year
1704
self is yellow like Butter, and as soft as a ripe Pear. There will grow 50 or 60 sometimes, upon a Stalk; and five or six Stalks upon a Tree. They are an extraordinary good Fruit; and in most parts of the
East
and
West-Indies
there is great plenty of them.
The Bonanoe-Tree
See Fig. XVII.
is much the same; only the Fruit is not so long as the Plantain, being, as I said before, about eight Inches long, and the Bonanoe not above six. It grows in the same manner as the Plantain; 50 or 60 in a cluster, upon one Stalk. The Fruit is very mellow, and extraordinary sweet and good.
The Land-marks of this River in the Bay of
St Matthew
are, that the Bay is higher Land than that which is behind it towards the inward parts, to the Cape of
St Francisco,
or thereabouts. It hath on the Sea-Coast 14 or 15 pieces of broken Ground, which are white; and in the middle of them is the said Bay of
St Matthew.
On the 31
st
of
July
we left the Bay of
Tacames,
and carried our little Prize, named the
Dragon,
with us; not designing to touch at any place, till we come to the Gulf of
Nicoya.
CHAP. IV.
The Island
Caneo.
The Mountains called
Sierras de los Coronadas.
The Gulf of
Nicoya.
The Ship cleaned. Mr
Clippinton
the Chief-Mate leaves us. A particular Description of the Gulf of
Nicoya.
The Maccaw described. The Carrion-Crow. The Pelican. The Guanoe. The Turtle. The Pearl-Oyster. The Great Oyster. Muscles. Departure from the Gulf of
Nicoya.
Two Mountains of
Guatimala,
the one casting out Water, the other Fire. A Prize taken. Vulcanoes. The Bay of
Tewantepeque. Subvartaneo.
Another Prize taken. The Bay of
Martaba.
The Mountains called
Motines.
The Mount of St
Jago,
and Port of
Quelagna.
Another Prize taken. Attempt upon the
Manila
-Ship, unsuccessful. The Men desire to return Home: But agree to cruize six Weeks longer, and
year
1704
then go into
India.
The
Albicore
described. The Crew divide, part tarrying with Captain
Dampier
in the South-Seas, and part resolving to go for
India.
FROM the Bay of
Tacames
in the Latitude of about 1 d. 20 m. North, we stood away to the N. W. a-cross the Bay of
Panama;
and on the 30th of
August
we fell in with an Island, which proved to be the Island
Caneo.
It is an indifferent high Island, and lies in the Latitude of 10d. N. It is not above a League round. and the anchoring-place is on the N. E, side, in 14 fadom Water, not above a quarter of a Mile from the Shore. Here is said by our
Indian
Pilots to be extraordinary good Wood, VVater, Turtle, and store of wild Hogs. Near this Island are two Islands more; and between them are several Shoals; and not far off, upon the main Land, is
Punta-mala
or bad Point; and within
Punta-mala
is a fine deep Bay, in which Sir
Thomas Cavendish
formerly clean'd his Ship.
From hence we coasted away to the VVestward, and past by the
Sierras de los Coronadas,
or the Crowned Mountains. These Mountains are very remarkable, there being none like them on this Coast. From
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1704
the Crowned Mountains we still coasted away to the VVestward, and passed by the four Rocks, called by the
Spaniards, Farallones de Queipo.
These Rocks lie just at the VVest-end of the Crowned Mountains; and the Coast runs N. N. VV. and S. S. E. Near these Rocks is the River
Estrella,
or the Star River. This River is in the bottom of a large Bay, and here is commonly a great Sea. From this Bay to
Herradura
is 11 Leagues.
Herradura
is the South Point that makes the Gulf of
Nicoya,
as
Cape Blanco
is the North. VVe arrived at
Herradura
on the 16 of
August;
but past by it, and went further into the Gulf, till we came to many small Islands, called by the
Spaniards
the
Middle Islands
because they lie in the middle of the Gulf. VVe anchor'd between
Them
and the Bay of
Caldera;
bringing the Bay of
Caldera
to bear East, and the said
Middle Islands
to bear VVest. Here we lay all this day; but sent our little Prize the
Dragon
to view the Gulf, and to find out a convenient place to lay our Ship ashore in. And the next Morning being
August
the 17th, our Captain and Carpenter went in the Canoa amongst the
Middle Islands,
to see if there was any convenience amongst
Them
for laying our Ship a-ground. In the Evening our Captain and Carpenter returned in the Canoa, and brought on board two Turtles, which
year
1704
they caught as they were going ashore. We presently went to work in cutting up the Turtle, boiling, roasting, frying, baking, and stewing, according as each one thought fit. Our Captain and Carpenter had, as they said, found out a convenient place to lay our Ship ashore, amongst these middle Islands. So we intended to lie here this Night, and, if it was fair, to go in on the morrow.
The same Evening our little Prize returned to us again. They had been up the River
Changel,
and found two or three
Indian
Houses, and some Plantain-Walks: The
Indians
climbed the Trees, and cut down for them as many Plantains as they would have. They found also two Canoas haul'd up upon the Sand, and brought them both off. In their way they caught eight Turtles, and eat nothing of their own Provisions, but fed upon Turtle during the Time they were from us; They gave us an account that they had found out a very good and secure place at the Island St
Lucas,
for us to lay our Ship ashore in; That it was in a fine deep Bay▪ which at the entrance was not above
Pistol-shot
over: That with five or six Guns upon each Point at the Entrance, w
might so fortifie our selves, as that no Enemy durst approach us; for that ten o
us might desend our selves against fi
year
1704
hundred. However we found the
Middle Islands
to be as convenient as any place could be: And our Captain seeming to like this place as well, and knowing we could fortifie our selves as strongly here and with as little trouble; we chose this place: Accordingly on the 18th, it being fair Weather and calm, we towed our Ship in amongst the Islands, and lay within Stones cast of the Shore all round, with one Anchor a Head, and a Cable out at our Stern, which was made fast to a great Tree on the Shore. As soon as we had fastened our Ship, all Hands went ashore and began to build Tents for our Cooper and Sail-maker to work in, and to put our Goods and Provisions in. In the mean time our chief Mate was sent in the little
Dragon
with twenty Men armed, and two Pattereroes, to cruize in the Gulf; where after he had cruized five or six Days, he returned with a
Spanish
Bark of about forty Tuns: She had in her some few Jars of Brandy, Wine, and some Sugar. They were going to repair her, she being very old; and for that purpose had five or six Carpenters and Caukers on board, who came very opportunely to help us to repair our Ship, for we had great need of Workmen. We took out our Powder, Shot and all our Ammunition; with all our Bread, some of our Flower, and our
year
1704
two Quarter-deck Guns; and put them on board this last Bark. Then we got all the rest of our things ashore, and made every thing ready for cleaning our Ship. Our Men went ashore often with the Sain, and caught store of Fish, especially if they took the right time, which was at the Flood, and better in the Night than in the Day. The 22d of
August,
we sent our Canoas to an Island just by us, upon which there were several old fallen-down Houses; the Thatch of which we brought away to make use of in burning the bottom of our Ship. The bottom of our Ship was in many places eaten like a Honey-Comb; insomuch that the firm Plank was no thicker than an old Six-pence: Nay, in some places in the Hold, we could thrust our Thumbs quite through with ease. Our Ship being in this condition, and we in want of Planks to new bottom her; our Carpenter was forced to make a hard shift, and stop the Leaks as well as he could with Nails and Oakam.
September
the 2d. Our Captain and Mr
Clippinton
the chief Mate falling out; Mr
Clippinton,
with twenty one of our Men, seized upon the Bark, in which was all our Ammunition, and a great part of our Provisions; and got up her anchor, and went without the Islands. From thence he sent us word, that if any of us had
year
1704
mind to go with him, we should be welcome; but however, that we might not be quite destitute, he would restore us all our Powder, Shot and Ammunition; reserving only two or three Barrels for his own use. And according to his promise he put on shore our Powder, Shot, and other Ammunition in an
Indian
House, to shelter it from the Rain, and sent us word of his so doing. And we went with our Canoas and fetcht it aboard.
And now our Captain's design being to take the
Manila
-Ship, we went to work in getting our things aboard, and watering and rigging our Ship. And on the 22d, we hal'd out from the
Middle Islands,
and anchored in the Gulf. Which before I proceed, I shall here give you some Description of.
See Fig. XXVII.
In this Gulf are several Islands, as the Island of St
Lucas,
and the Island of
Chira.
To this latter Island the
Spanish
Ships come to take in their lading, which is brought from
Nicoya.
This Island is inhabited, and lies in the Latitude of 10 d. 50 m. North; and on the N. E. part is another Island called the Island
Guaiabas,
near which is a Bar or Shoal. Observe, when you enter into this Gulf, that you leave all the Islands to the Westward, except the Island
Guaiabas,
which has the Bar near it; and steer close by the Island of
Chira.
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1704
This Island is distant from from St
Lucas
eight Leagues; and they lie from each other North and South. To the S. S. W. of the Island St
Lucas,
distant about four Leagues, are the
Middle Islands.
They are a parcel of small Islands, and amongst them is a good Harbour, in which we wooded and watered and hal'd our Ship ashore.
We found here several sorts of very good Fish, as
Mullets, Breams, Silver-fish,
&c. Of Shell-fish here is
Conchs, Clams, Pearl-Oysters;
and another sort of Oyster, called the
Great-Oyster.
Of Birds here is great store,
viz. Maccaws
and
Pelicans
and
Carrion-Crows.
And of amphibious Creatures, the
Guano
and the
Sea-Turtle.
The
Maccaw,
is a very fine Bird, his Feathers being of most sorts of Colours. He is about the bigness of a Hawk; and in shape like a Parrot, only his Bill is perfectly white, and his Feet and Legs quite black.
The
Carrion-Crow,
is as big as a small Turkey, and in all respects very like one; for I never saw any difference neither in Colour nor Shape. The Flesh of them, both smells and tastes so strong of Musk, that there is no eating of it. These Creatures commonly resort to any place where any dead Creature is, and feed upon it; for which reason they are called
Carrion:
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1704
But the reason why they are called
Crows,
I know not; for they are nothing like them, but altogether like a wild Turkey.
The
Pelican,
See Fig. XVIII.
is almost as big as a Swan. Its Colour is inclining to white, only the tips of his Wings are brown. It hath a long Bill of about twenty Inches, with a very large Crop joyning to the lower part of his Bill, and so descending by the Throat, like a Bag or Satchel, very observable, and of a largeness almost beyond credit, into which it receiveth Oysters, Cockles, Conchs,
&c.
or any other Shellfish; which being not able to break, it retains them until they open, and then vomiting them up, picks out the Meat. As for their making a Hole in their Breast to give their Blood to their Young, I do not believe, nor ever saw any such thing, although I have seen thousands both young and old together, and have eaten many of them. They are good Food; only they taste somewhat fishy. They have broad Feet like a Duck, being Waterfowls; but they roost commonly on Rocks and in Trees, and always set with their Heads to the Wind; so that if the Wind changes whilst they are at roost, they turn about their Heads to the Wind. They are heavy Birds, and fly very slow; and always, when they sit either on Rocks,
year
1704
Trees, or in the Water, they rest their Bills upon their Crop.
The
Guano
See Fig. XIX.
is a sort of Creature, some of which are found on Land, some in the Water. He is about three foot long, more or less; and is a very ugly Creature to look at; having great, sharp, black and green Scales, from the fore-part of his Head to the end of his Tail; and a set of great and sharp Teeth, with four long Claws upon each Foot. They breed commonly in the Roots of old Trees, near the Water side; and frequent the Water as well as Land. When they are stewed with a little Spice, they make good Broth; and the Flesh looks very white, and eats very well; but if they are not extraordinarily well boiled, they are very dangerous to eat; making Men very sick, and often putting them into a Feaver, as we were informed by our Prisoners.
Of
Sea-Turtles
there are several sorts, but we always account the green Turtle to be the best Meat. They have several Islands and sandy Bays, where they go to lay their Eggs: Which they do in different places at different times. For in some places, as at the Island of
Ascension
in the Atlantick Ocean, their common time of laying is in
April, May, June
and
July.
In other places, as in the Bay of
Motines
on the Coast of
Mexico,
we took them ashore
year
1704
laying their Eggs in the Months of
December
and
January.
Here in the Gulf of
Nicoya
upon the same Coast of
Mexico,
in the Latitude of between 10 and 11 d. North, we caught a great many of them, and commonly found them full of Eggs, in the Months of
August
and
September.
Though therefore at one or at several constant places their season of laying is always the same, yet in different places their Seasons are different. I have been at the catching of them in most times of the Year, and commonly found them full of Eggs. When they want to lay, they go ashore in some sandy Bay, and with their Fins make a Hole in the Sand about two foot and a half deep, wherein they lay their Eggs, commonly about eighty or ninety at a time: Then they cover them up with the Sand they had scraped out of the Hole, and so leave them for the heat of the Sun to hatch. Thus they lay two or three times in a Season; and after they have laid, they go off to Sea, and leave the Young, when hatcht, to shift for themselves; who, as soon as they get out of the Shell and Sand, retire to the Water. The Eggs are round, about the bigness of a Duck's, with a white, thin, tough Skin over them, but no Shell:
Both the Eggs and the Turtle are extraordinary good Food, as I have experienced many
year
1704
times. I have seen of this sort of Turtle several times from 200 to 350 and 400 weight. The lean of them, before 'tis drest, looks like Beef; but the fat is as green as Grass; and it is very wholesome Food.
The
Pearl-Oyster
is much about the bigness of our common Oyster, but more flat and broad. It hangs to the Rocks by a long stringy Beard, like a Muscle. The Pearl lies in the thickest part of it; some have five, six or seven Pearls in them. The
Spaniards
make several Voyages to this Gulf of
Nicoya
and to the Island
California
for them. The
Indians
go down in five, six, seven or eight fathom water, and bring up eight, ten, or twelve Oysters at a time, while the Men on board open them. The Meat of this Oyster is very green, and the Oyster fat. I have eaten of this Oyster several times, both boiled and stewed; and found them to be tolerable good Victuals.
The
Great Oyster
grows to the Rocks, as other Oysters; not hanging to them by a Beard, as the Pearl-Oyster. When they are opened, one part looks of a fine Red like a Cherry, the other part is of a fine White. I have eat of this sort of Oyster many times; but it was for want of better Victuals. They are so large, that one of them cut in pieces and stewed, is sufficient for a Meal for five or six Men.
year
1704
The
Muscles
here are so large, that one of them when drest, will suffice two Men; and they are tolerable good Victuals, when stewed with Pepper and Vinegar.
From the middle Islands before-mentioned to the Island of
Chira,
is clear Ground, and six or seven fathom Water. When you sail up the Gulf, you must keep nearer the Islands than the main Land; because near the Main are several Sholes, which stretch a considerable way. From the Island
St Lucas
to Cape
Blanco,
is nine Leagues. Cape
Blanco
lies in the Latitude of 10 d. 20 m. North. It has a small Island at the Point of it, full of high Trees; The Cape is high towards the inner Parts, and appears plain and even. The chief of what they bring from this Gulf, is Salt, Honey, Maiz, some Wheat and Fowls, which they send yearly to
Panama.
On the 23 d of
September,
having done our Business here, we with our little
Dragon
Prize left this place, intending to cruize to the Westward. On the 7th of
October,
we had Latitude by observation 13 d. 07 m. North. Variation 4 d. 30 m. westerly; And at the same time we saw the Land, which proved to be two high Mounts, called the Vulcans of
Guatimala;
the one being of Water, the other of Fire. These two famous Mountains stand almost the one over-against the other, on
year
1704
each side of the Valley; that of Water being on the South side, and that of Fire on the North, nearer to the old City. That of Water, is a little higher than the other, and yields a goodly Prospect, being green all the Year round. In the Year 1534, this Mountain was said to burst open, and threw Water in such large quantities, that it drowned the City of
Guatimala;
which caused the Inhabitants to remove the City three Leagues further off, where it now stands. The Vulcan of Fire, which stands opposite to that of Water, is at some certain times (especially in the rainy Season, which is from
April
to
November,
) very terrible to the Inhabitants. It sometimes throws out Stones as big as a House; and breaks out with such a Flame, that if it be in a dark Night, although you be five or six Miles of, yet by the Light thereof you may see to read a Letter written in a small Hand. This was affirmed to us by several of our Prisoners, Natives of the place.
The 8th, we had dirty squally Weather, with very hard Gusts of Wind from the two Vulcans aforesaid; with such prodigious Claps of Thunder and Flashes of Lightning, as none of us ever saw or heard the like. On the 9th, we took a Bark of about eighty Tuns, in ballast. She came from
Suvartanejo,
and was bound for
Ria Lexa.
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1704
She had a small quantity of Provisions, which was very welcome to us. The Captain's name was
Christian Martin,
a
Spaniard
born at the
Canaries,
but brought up in
London.
He was Servant formerly to Captain
Eaton,
and came with him into the South Seas, at which time he was Captain
Eaton
's Gunner; but falling out with the Men, ran away from them at the Island
Gorgonia,
where he lay concealed six Days till the Ship was gone; after which he cut him down two small Trees, which he drew to the Water-side, and bound them together with Twigs; fixed a Mast; and of two Shirts, which he had with him, made a Sail; and having filled a large Bag with Oysters, which he made fast to the said two Trees, he in the Morning betimes put off from the Island
Gorgonia,
and the next Day in the Afternoon got into the River of
Bonaventure,
where he went ashore, and had but ill usage from the
Spaniards,
who sent him to
Lima,
where he was examined, cleared himself, and was set at liberty. He could speak very good
English.
The 15th, we had Latitude by observation 13 d. 25 m. North. Variation 3 d. 00 m. Westerly, being then off the great Vulcano of
Attitlan.
This Vulcan commonly casts out smoak; and under it are 5 small Hills, which are said to be always
year
1704
green. On the 16th, we passed by the Vulcan of
Sapotitlan;
which throws out vast quantities of Fire. This, and the Vulcan of
Sacatapeque,
are reckoned two wonders of the World. We observed off the Vulcan of
Sapotitlan,
and found variation 2 d. 51 m. Westerly, and had Latitude by observation 13 d. 51 m. North. The 19th, we saw the Hill of
Bernal,
which makes the East point of the Gulf of
Tecoantepeque.
We observed off it, and found the variation, by a good Amplitude, to be 2 d. 45 m. Westerly; and had Latitude 15 d. 00 m. N.
The 20th, we found our selves a-breast of the Bay of
Tecoantepeque,
which is very low Land, and full of little Hills, which look like small Islands. This place is very subject to hard Gales of Wind at N. E. called
Tecoantepequers,
from the place whence they come; and they happen commonly about the New and Full Moons. The best way therefore is to keep near the Shore, after you are past the Bay or Gulf. In the Gulf it self, you may keep three or four Leagues off; for it is shoal to that distance: But when you are to the Westward of the Bay, keep within two Leagues of the Shore, that you may come to an anchor if occasion be. For if you should chance to be driven off from Shore, which frequently happens; you will hardly be able to
year
1704
get in four days, so much as you will drive out in one. For when you are driven out of sight of the Land, you will have a strong Current, which will drive you far to the S. W.
November
the 11th, in the Even, we saw four small White Islands, lying close together: On the East-end of which, about two Miles distance, is a large Hummock, which looks like an Island, but is not; the Land going from it to the Main, being very low, causes it, till you are very near it, to look like an Island. This place is called
Suvartaneo,
inhabited by
Spaniards
and
Indians.
It lies in the Latitude of 17 d. 40 m. N; and has a small Village, of about forty Houses, standing by the Sea-side. Here we anchored in 14 fathom Water, not above Pistol-shot from the Village. At our coming in, we saw about 500
Spaniards
and
Indians,
both Horse and Foot. We fired eight or ten of our great Guns at them, and they retired into the Woods. Then we landed about 30 of us, and went to the Village and romaged it. In it we found a great many small things, with 16 Packs of very good Flower. We filled here two Boats load of Water; but the Sea running high, over-set our Boats. Our Men would have set the Village on fire, but the Captain being ashore would not suffer them. So on the 18th we went out with the Land-wind, and stood away to the Westward.
year
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The 22d, we anchored in the Bay of
Martaba,
under the Mountains of
Motines.
Here we watered our Ship, and found in a small River a great many large green Turtles, the best I ever tasted. On the 26th, at Sun-setting, we spied a Sail, and immediately got every thing in a readiness for an Engagement, not knowing but it might be the
Manila
-Ship, which we now began to expect shortly to see. VVe were at this time sixty four of us, Men and Boys; all well in Health; and did daily wish to have a sight of the
Manila
-Ship. We soon came up with the Ship we saw, and took her. She was a small Bark, of about sixty Tuns, from
California,
laden with Plank; and she had on board some parcels of Pearl, which they had fish'd in the Gulf of
California.
In this Bay of
Martaba
is a very good anchoring place, defended from the East and North-West Winds. And there is ten and twelve fathom Water, clear Ground. When you are ashore, you will see a little River of fresh Water. It was at this Rivulet that we water'd our Ship, and in it found store of extraordinary large and very good green Turtle. Near the Rivulet is a Road, which strikes up into the Woods. This Road leads to an
Indian
Town, called
Mavota.
It is said to be four Miles and a half from the Sea-side.
year
1704
To the N. W. of this Bay of
Martaba,
five or six Leagues, towards the Sea-side, you will see broken Ground, which looks like an Island. It is called
Chasipi.
On the S. E. of which, is a little pleasant Valley of pure white Sand, called the Valley of
Maguille;
under the Jurisdiction of the City of
Colima.
Observe that at the Point of
Chasipi,
the
Motines
end. The
Motines
are a long Ridge of Mountains, reaching in length 25 Leagues. They abound in many rich Towns of
Spaniards, Mullattoes, Mostese,
and
Indians.
To the N. W. of the Point of
Chasipi,
you will find a plain even Land towards the Sea-side, which is full of Coco-nut Trees planted here for the use of those Ships which come from the Gulf of
California.
Two or three Leagues distant from this row of Trees, to the N. W. is some broken Ground; and at the end of the broken Ground stands a Vulcan, which is said always to smoak. It is called the Vulcan of
Colima;
and the broken Ground is called the Valley of
Corelan.
It is all planted with Cocoa's, such as we make Chocolate of. This Valley is distant from the Town of
Colima
N. W. 18 Leagues; And not far from the Valley is a Mount very round, called the Mount of St
Jago.
The Mount of St
Jago
is in the Port of
Quelagna.
To know it, you must observe that there is a Rock close by the said
year
1704
Mount, which looks very white, and may be seen a great distance. There is a Bay at the end of it, where is a plain of green Trees. If you would go to this Port of
Quelagna,
you must steer streight to the Bay. For there are two very good Harbours, which have good Anchor-ground, and will hold a great many Ships: They are called the
Caletas.
On the N. W. side of the said Bay is another very good Port, and close by it is the Port of
Quelagna;
and between the Port of
Quelagna
and the white Rock, is a very good Port, in which you are Land-lock'd from all Winds; and this is called the Port of St
Jago,
but is not inhabited. Five or six Leagues to the N. VV. of the white Rock, is a little Mount; coming near to which, you will see an indifferent high Mount, full of broken Ground, and a Rock joining to it, which is in form of a Sugar-Loaf; and on the N. W. side of that Rock, there is a Bay a League wide.
It was on the 4th of
December,
that we came into this Bay; in which we saw a Sail, stood in after her, and soon took her. All the way we chased her, they heaved their things over-board; after which they all took to their Boat, and got ashore. VVe took possession of the Vessel, which was a new Vessel of about sixty Tuns: And in her we found a great deal
year
1704
of Powder and Shot scattered up and down in all Parts of the Vessel. We suppose therefore that this Ship lay here with Ammunition to supply the
Manila
-Ship; But upon our chacing of her, they threw most of it over-board. This Bay is called the Bay of
Navidad.
From this Bay of
Navidad
or the
Nativity,
we still coasted along to the Westward. At the N. W. end of this Port, is another Port which is called
Chametla.
It is a Port defended from the N. W. and S. E. Winds. Two Leagues to the N. W. of it, is an Island; and about it lie four or five Rocks, which come from the main Land; They lie to the N. N. E. and may plainly be seen; and at the East end of them, you may see the Vulcan of
Colima.
On the 6th in the Morning, being off the Vulcan of
Colima,
we saw a Sail, and soon came up with her. She proved to be the
Manila
-Ship. So we, being all provided, gave her several broad-sides, before she could get any of her Guns clear. For they did not suspect us to be an Enemy, and were not at all prepared for us. Capt.
Martin,
whom I formerly mentioned, was then a Prisoner on board us: He advised to lay her aboard immediately, while they were all in a hurry, and that this would be the only way to take her; but
year
1704
if we gave them so much time as to get out their great Guns, they would certainly beat us in pieces, and we should lose an opportunity of making our selves masters of the value of sixteen Millions of Pieces of Eight. And accordingly it happened: For time being delayed in quarrelling, between those of us that would lay her aboard, and those that would not, the Enemy got out a tire of Guns, and then were too hard for us; so that we could not lie along her side, to do her any considerable damage. For our five Pound shot, which was the biggest we had, signified little against such a Ship as she was; but any of her shot, which were 18 and 24 Pounders, if any of them happened to strike
Ʋ s,
our Ship being very much decayed, it would drive in a piece of Plank of three or four Foot. So being much damaged, and receiving particularly a shot from the Enemy between Wind and Water in our Powder Room; by which we had two foot of Plank driven in on each side the Stem; the Signal was made to stand off from the Enemy.
Thus our Design being disappointed, all our Men grew discontented, and were for going Home; knowing we could do no good in these Parts, either for our selves or Owners; having Provision but for three Months, and that very short; and our
year
1704
Ship being ready of her self to fall in Pieces. Our Captain desired our consent to cruize here six Weeks longer, and then he would permit us to go for
India,
to some Friend's Factory, where we might all dispose of our selves, as we should think most for our advantage. To this we all agreed: And accordingly cruized along shore to the Eastward in sight of the Land, and passed by several noted Ports, as
Acapulco,
Port
Angels,
Port
Guatulco,
and several others: Of which I shall speak in my Description of the Coasts.
Our Design now was to go into the Gulf of
Amapalla,
to new Water our Ship and Bark, for our intended Voyage to
India.
On the 5th of
January,
1704/5, we met with vast quantities of Fish; so that in half an hours time, we caught of
Albicores,
from sixty to ninety Pound weight, no fewer than fifty eight. And small Fish of about five Inches, were so numerous, that with a Bucket we haul'd up fourteen, sixteen, eighteen and sometimes twenty at a time.
The
Albicore
See Fig. XXI.
is about four or five Foot in length, some more some less; weighing from 50 to 100 and 150 pound weight. He hath eleven Fins on his back, one pretty large, one middling one, and nine small yellow ones near the Tail. He hath one large Fin on each side near the Gills; and
year
1704
12 Fins under his Belly; one on each side underneath near the Gills, one near the middle of the Belly, and nine small yellow Fins extending to his Tail. It is a very fleshy Fish, having little or no Bones, except the Back-bone; and is extraordinary good Victuals. It is a prodigious strong Fish, when in the Water. They prey mostly upon the Flying-fish, as do the Dolphins, Bonetoes,
&c.
On the 6th, it was concluded between Captain
Dampier
and 30 of our Men, to continue in the South-Seas; but upon what Terms this Agreement was made, was kept secret. We who were resolved to go for
India,
used our endeavour to get into the Gulf of
Amapalla
(which was the place we design'd to water at) with all the haste we could. Where we anchor'd on the 26th of
January
1704/
. And the same day; the Provisions being equally parted according to the directions of the Owners Agent; and four great Guns, with some small Arms, Powder and Shot,
&c.
being taken out for us; we, (that is, 33 of us who resolved to go in the Bark for
India.
) went on shore in order to water our Vessel for the said Voyage.
CHAP. V.
A particular Description of the Coast of
Mexico.
The Hill of
Zalisco.
The Cocoa-Tree. The Islands
Maria's.
The Rocks and Points of
Pontique.
Cape
Corrientes.
The Islands of
Chametly.
Port of
St Jago,
and of
Navidad.
Bay of
Sallagua.
The Mountains
Motines.
The River
Sacaticli.
The Mountains of
Chequetan
and
Petaplan. Acapulco.
Port
Marquiss.
Point
Gallera.
The Island
Alcatrazes.
Point
Escondedo.
The R.
Messias.
The River of
Gallera.
Port
Angels.
The Port of
Guatulco. Mazattlan.
Port of
Salina. Tecoantepeque.
Cat-Fish. The Hill of
Bernall.
The Vulcans of
Soconusco, Amilpas, Sapotitlan, Sacatepeque, Atitlan,
and
Guatimala.
City of
Guatimala.
The Port of
Sonsonat. Trinidad.
The Vulcans of
Isalco, S. Salvadore
and
atelepa.
The River
Lempa. St Michael.
The
year
1704
Gulf of
Amapalla.
The Shovelnosed Shark. The Ceawau. Port of
Ria-Lexa.
The Vulcan
Vejo.
The Vulcans of
Telica,
and
Leon Mamotombo, Granada
and
Bombacho.
Mountain of
Popogajo.
Port of
Velas.
The Mount of
Hermozo.
The Cape of
Gajones.
Cape
Blanco.
The Gulf of
Nicoya. Sierras de los Coronadas.
The Island
Caneo. Punta mala. Golfo Dulce. Puebla Nova.
The Islands
Quibo, Quicara
and
Rancheria.
The Point of
Mariato.
The
Moro de Porcos.
The Point of
Higuera. Punta mala.
The Island
Guanoes. Nata.
BUT before we go any further, I shall here give a particular Description of the Coast of
Mexico, Peru
and
Chili,
from the entrance of the Gulf of
California
in the Latitude of 23 d. 30 m. N. to the Port of
Valdivia
in the Latitude of 40 d. S. so far as I knew them my self, or could get an account of them from the
Spaniards.
year
1704
And first, on the main Land you will see the Hill called
Zalisco:
It is a very high Hill, with a bending on the top; and close to this Hill, is a white Rock called
Maxentelbo,
which at three or four Leagues distance looks like a Ship under Sail. And behind the Hill of
Zalisco,
is a great Town of the same Name, inhabited by
Spaniards, Mullattoes, Mostese
and
Indians.
And the Main here all along, is full of Cocoa-walks, with Estantions or Farms of Beeves.
The Cocoa-Tree is small, and the Nut or Kernel bigger than an Almond; and ripens in a great Husk, wherein are sometimes 30, nay 40 Cocoas. These Cocoas are made use of to make Chocolate: And as in
England
we go to the Tavern to drink a Glass of Wine, so they do here (upon this Coast of
Mexico
) as frequently go to their Markets to drink a Dish of Chocolate; And the
Indians
count it a very wholesom Drink. We were glad, whilst we were upon this Coast, to make three Meals a Day of it for near a Month. We would much rather, if we could, have fed upon Flesh: But however, living near a Month upon Chocolate, it made us very fat, and we found that it kept us very well in Health. Whether, if we had lived upon it much longer, it would have done us hurt, I know not; but I am apt
year
1704
to believe it would have increased our Fat too fast, and so have made us unhealthy.
From the white Rock called
Maxentelbo,
twenty Leagues to the South, are three great Islands called
Maria
's, and a little one called the
Low Island;
and amongst them are several small Rocks. These Islands are of an indifferent height, and are very full of Wood. The Westermost is the biggest; and between the Islands and the Main, is said to be good anchoring in eight, ten, twelve and fourteen fathom Water, good fast Ground. The Islands are not inhabited; and about them is said to be commonly store of Seals and Turtle, and several sorts of very good Fish. Whether these Islands have any fresh Water upon them, I know not, but I am apt to think they may.
Fourteen Leagues to the S. S. W. of the Islands
Maria
's, are the Rocks or Islands of
Pontique;
They lie from the Main about a League; You may sail between them and the Main-land, without any danger. They take up two Leagues in length, and the Westermost of them looks like a Ship without a Mast. You may sail between them; for there is no danger, but what is visible. The Land here by the Sea-side is low; but within the Country it is very high and ragged: And about a League to
year
1704
the Eastward of these Islands, is the Point of
Pontique.
This Point at a distance looks like an Island. It is a high round Hill, and very barren; being only a ragged Rock. From this Point to the Eastward, for fourteen Leagues, runs a deep Bay; and on the North end it is low Land. This Bay is very well inhabited by
Spaniards, Mullattoes, Mostese
and
Indians.
Here are a great many Gardens of Cocoa; and all this Bay and the Valleys, are under the Jurisdiction of the Governor of the City of
Compostella.
At the East end of this Bay, is the Cape
Corrientes,
which Cape lies in the Latitude of about 20 d. 30 m. North. It is high Land, and full of sharp ragged Hills. Observe, when you sail near this Cape, if it blow hard from the N. W. as it commonly doth, that four or five Leagues to the S. E. of the Cape, is broken Ground towards the Sea-side. Steer exactly to it, and on the S. E. side of the said broken Ground you will find a good convenient place where you may anchor, and in it you are defended from most Winds. This place is called by the Pilots
Salina's,
because near it they make Salt. The Cape
Corrientes
is very high Land. It hath on it a few Trees; and within the Land, near the said Cape, is a high Mountain, which has three sharp Pikes on the top, somewhat
year
1704
like a Crown: It is called
Coronada
or the Crowned-Mountain. The Sea-winds hereabouts are commonly at N. W. and the Land-wind at North.
From Cape
Corrientes
S. E. by E. runneth a great Bay, in which are three or four Islands called the Islands of
Chametly:
they are little low Islands, and between them and the Main there is a very good place to anchor in; and near this anchoring place, the Main is inhabited by
Indians,
who are Fishermen, and fish for the City of the
Purification;
Which is a large City, and said to be about fourteen Leagues within Land.
From the Bay of
Chametly
to the S. E. twenty Leagues, is the Port of St
Jago;
a very good Port, in which you are defended from all Winds; but near it are no Inhabitants. Not far from this Port, is the Vulcan of
Alima,
five Leagues within the Land.
From the Port of St
Jago
to the S. E. sixteen Leagues, is the Port of
Navidad
or the
Nativity;
between which two Ports are several small Ports, and many Rocks and Shoals, so that it is bad going into them; and besides, for want of Trade, they are seldom or never made use of by the
Spaniards.
The Port of
Navidad
is a very good Port, in which is Water and Wood. Here the
Spaniards
build Ships,
year
1704
the biggest they have in these Parts of the World; And here they built the first, that ever was known to sail from
America
to the
East-Indies.
At this place on the 4th of
December,
we took a new Bark of about fifty Tuns; in which we found some Bacon, Fowls, Bread and Rice, with some Powder and Shot. At our chasing of her, the Men, after they had heaved most of their things over-board, took to their Boat and got ashore. This Port lies in the Latitude of 19 d. 20 m. N.
From hence to the Bay of
Salagua
or Salt-water Bay, is eight Leagues. It was at this place, that Captain
Dampier,
Vol. I.
page
245, gives an account that the
Manila
-Ship sets ashore her Passengers that are bound for the City of
Mexico:
But now the Vice-roy finding an inconvenience in their so doing, has given a positive Command that they should not put any of their Men or Goods ashore till their arrival at
Acapulco;
Because it was usual with them, when they set ashore their Passengers, to convey away a great deal of the Goods, and so defrauded the King of his Customs.
From this place to the Port
Desapan,
is sixteen Leagues; and half a League within the Land, is a Town called
Jesu-Christo,
said to be a large handsome Town. At this place begin the high Hills called
Motines,
year
1704
which stretch twenty five Leagues to the S. E. These Hills abound in many rich Towns of
Spaniards
and
Indians;
And here are abundance of Cocoa-walks, and Farms of Cattle. The Land by the Sea-side, is mountainous and rocky; and by the Water, it is all along planted with Cocoa-nut Trees, for the use of those Ships which come hereabouts and have occasion for Chocolate. Hereabouts you will see the Vulcan of
Colima,
which is said always to smoak, and sometimes, though seldom, to burst out with Fire. Under these Hills, on the 27th of
November,
we took a Bark of about sixty Tuns, laden with Plank. She came from the Gulf of
California,
where they had been fishing for Pearls; of which we found a few Parcels. Under the same Mountains, in the Bay of
Stabata,
we water'd our Ship, and found a great many very good green Turtle.
At the East end of these Mountains of
Motines,
is the River
Sacaticli;
a League up which River, is a Town of the same Name. Near this River are some pieces of broken Ground, the least of which is Sandy, and has no Trees on the top of it. From hence S. E. to
Estapa
is sixteen Leagues; in all which distance there is neither Hill nor high Land; but in most places 'tis full of Trees, and continues so till you come to a thick green spot of
year
1704
Trees. A little to the Eastward of
Estapa,
are some great high Mountains, called the Mountains of
Chequetan.
They lie within Land, and are ten or twelve Leagues in length. To the Eastward of this place, twenty Leagues, is the Mount of
Petaplan.
By this Mount are a great many Cocoa-walks, and near ro the Cocoa-walks is the Town of
Petaplan,
which stands behind the Mountain. This Town is said to be a large Town and very well inhabited. The Land near it is full of small Hills and Valleys: The Hills are barren, but the Valleys are said to be green almost all the Year. The Hill of
Petaplan,
is a high Hill: At a distance it looks like an Island; and about it are a great many Rocks, but all visible; so that if you please, you may go between them; where, if occasion be, you may anchor, and will not find less than nine, ten, or eleven fathom Water: This Hill I make to lie in the Latitude of 17 d. 25 m. North. From hence to the Port of
Acapulco,
is eight Leagues, all along a sandy Bay, and low even Land.
Acapulco
is a Port of great Trade. It is the place where the
Spaniards
embark from
Mexico
for
China
and the
Philippine
Islands: Which is a particular Priviledge it has: For no other Port durst trade to any part of the
East-Indies,
but from hence. It is
year
1704
distant from the City of
Mexico
eighty Leagues, and all Goods are carried from hence thither on Mules, though it is a very bad way. This is the chief Port for
Mexico
on the whole West-side of
America.
It is a very good and large Port, and in it may lie a hundred Sail of Ships, all Landlock'd and secure from all Winds and Weather. It lies in the Latitude of 17 d. 06 m. North. The Town consists of about 120 Families, most
Spaniards;
and has for its defence a Castle of between forty and fifty Brass Guns, each said to carry a thirty-six pound Ball. The Castle stands in a Valley between two noted Hills; one of which is almost like a Sugar-loaf, and the other is cut in two at the top; this is called the Hill
Cauca:
These Hills are the highest Land hereabouts, and both to the East and West of them it is all low Land for several Leagues. The Town stands at the N. W. end of the Harbour, in a deep Bay; It is said to be a pretty compacted Town. If you would enter into this Port, bring the Hill
Cauca
to bear N. ½ E. from you; then go to the S. E. of the Island, which is at the Mouth of the Harbour, called the
least Island;
and after that, have a care of coming near a dangerous Shole, called the
Grifo.
But if the Wind should be Northerly, then you may go to the westward of the great Island.
year
1704
This is the
China
-Ships entrance; It is the narrowest Channel, and the Water is very deep; but Ships coming from the Eastward come in at the East Channel, between the Main and a great Shole of Sand; but in their Entrance, keep as near the Main as they can. You may know this Port by the high Land; for it is all low to the East and West of it; and all along for several Leagues, sandy Bays.
A League from this Port of
Acapulco,
is Port
Marquis.
It is a very good Port, and in it is good Wood and Water. And here are three or four
Indian
Houses, belonging to Fishermen, who fish for the Town of
Acapulco.
A little to the Eastward of these Houses, are 3 small Islands, with some
Indian
Fishermens Houses on them: And here they dry a great deal of Fish, with which they supply their Town and Ships at
Acapulco.
From these three small Islands, to the River of
Naguala,
is six Leagues. It is a small River, with only five or six poor Fishermens Houses; from whence by Land is a good Path leading to
Acapulco;
and by Sea it is a bold Coast, and deep Water.
From the River of
Naguala,
to the Fishing-place of
Don Garcia
S. E. is five Leagues; all even Land, and a sandy Bay. Here live 15 or 20
Indian
Slaves, who dry
year
1704
Fish, which they sell ready dried by wholesale.
From the Fishing-place of
Don Garcia,
to the Hill of
Cecorillo,
S. E. is six Leagues; and near the Water-side, all even Land, and sandy. This Hill of
Cecorillo,
is a small round Hill, close to the Water-side; and right against it, about a League from the Shore, are five or six Rocks; and all round them it is shole water.
From the Hill of
Cecorillo,
to the River of
Taclamanca,
is two Leagues. Here live eight or ten Families of
Indian
People, who employ their Time in fishing.
From the River
Taclamanca,
to Point
Gallera,
is eight or nine Leagues. The first four Leagues the Land is all along Wood; and the other half way, it is broken Ground by the Sea-side; there being seven Cliffs of a whitish Colour; And off of these Cliffs, about a league distance from the shore, are several Shoals; and for two Leagues off, you have scarce two fathom Water.
From Point
Gallera
to the Morro or Mount of
Hermoso,
is seven Leagues; the Land mountainous within, and full of little Rocks by the Sea-side. This Mount of
Hermoso,
is a plain Mount, and at the top very even; and about a Mile from the shore, right off the said Mount, is a great Sand, on which several good Ships have
year
1704
been lost: A little to the S. E. of this Sand, is a hilly Island, a league from the Main, called
Alcatrazes;
and over-against it is a fresh Water River, where you may water your Ship if you have occasion: Here live several
Indian
People, with a
Spanish
Friar; And round about the Island are several small Islands, or rather Rocks: And from the Main, on the East-side of the Island, cometh out a Shoal of Rocks and Sand, which stretch off to Sea as far as the Island: Therefore it is dangerous going in at the East-end; but at the Westend you may safely go in; and on the inside of the Island is a good anchoring place.
Upon this Coast of
Mexico,
for the most part the Land-winds are at N. W. and N. N. W. and the Sea-winds, from the W. to the S. W. according as the Land trends away. So that all the way, if you keep within eighty or ninety Leagues of the Land, you must make use of the Land and Sea-breezes, which commonly blow hereabouts pretty fresh. The Land here, is not very high: It is woody; but within the Country mountainous. Here are seven or eight whitish Cliffs by the Seaside, which are very remarkable, because there are none so white and thick together on all the Coast.
year
1704
From the Island
Alcatrazes
to the Port of
Escondedo,
is eight Leagues; Its East Point butting into the Sea more by half a League than the West. It is a smooth and good Port, and here is good wooding and watering. Near this Port is a little Island, which makes the Port; within which Island you may ride with great Security from the West and South-west Winds, and may venture to go ashore without any danger: And from this Port is a Road leading to several great Towns in the Country.
From
Escondedo
to the River
Messias,
is six Leagues; and between
Escondedo
and the River
Messias,
is the River of
Aqua Dulce
or Sweet-water-River; right against which are two Rocks, one on each side. At the Mouth of the River
Messias,
is fresh Water; and in the times of the Rains, it overflows its Banks, and hinders the Inhabitants in their Affairs, and very often drowns many of their Cattle, which feed near the Banks of it. The Banks of this River are very well peopled with
Indians.
But hereabouts, the Coast is much troubled with Calms. Off from this River
Messias,
at a league distance, is a large Island, which has several small Islands, or rather Rocks about it.
From these Islands to the River
Galler
is eighteen Leagues, all mountainous within
year
1704
Land, and a wild Country; full of small Bays, but no Port; having many Mangrove-trees, and several other Trees fit for Masts. Right off this River of
Gallera,
about three quarters of a Mile from the Main, and six Leagues to the Westward of Port
Angels,
is a small rocky Island; between which and the Main, is very good anchoring in fifteen, sixteen and seventeen fathom Water. The Sea-winds hereabouts, are commonly at W. S. W. and S. W. and the Land-winds at North. Whether there be any Water upon this Island I do not know; but never heard of any, neither could any of our Prisoners tell us the name of it. It has some small Trees, or rather Bushes growing on it; but they are fit for no use.
From this Island, as I said before, to the Port
Angels,
is six Leagues. It is a good Port, and seldom without shipping. Here is a small Town of about thirty Houses, inhabited mostly by
Spaniards;
The Town is situated on the West-side of the Port, and in the Town are said to be two pretty little Churches. This Town has great trading to it, for Hides and Tallow; and sends a great quantity of Goods by Land to
Mexico,
and several other In-land Towns and Villages. VVhen you enter this Port, you must keep to the Eastward of a Rock and Shoal. The Port lies in the
year
1704
Latitude of 15 d. 45 m. North. Captain
Dampier
in Vol. I.
page
232, makes the Port of
Guatulco
to lie in the Latitude of 15 d. 30 m. North. VVe did the same: But then,
page
239, he makes Port
Angels,
which is to the Northward of it, to lie in the Latitude of but 15 d. North; which we made to lie in 15 d. 45 m. North; that is, 15 Miles to the Northward of
Guatulco:
VVhereas he makes it 30 miles to the Southward of it. But I suppose it is a mistake in the Printing. The Coast runs here, VV. N. VV. and E. S. E. The Tide rises and falls five foot; the Flood setting to the N. E. and the Ebb to the S. W.
From Port
Angels
to the
Caletta,
is two Leagues. It is a very good Port, but hath neither VVood nor fresh VVater. Have a great care of four or five Rocks, which lie out from its S. E. Point, stretching a Mile and half into the Sea. Between the
Caletta
and Port
Angels,
is said to be a very dangerous Shoal, and that it bears from the Point of Port
Angels
S. S. E. distance one League.
The Port
Angels
is in form like to
Guatulco,
but not so broad nor so good; though the
Spaniards
reckon it to be an extraordinary Port, yet there is a great deal of difference between it and
Guatulco.
In Port
Angels
are several anchoring places;
year
1704
On the S. E. side you will ride most secure, because it keeps you from the Winds. There is high Land on each side, and on the West-side is a Rock, and without the Rock is a Shoal of Sand: Within the Rock are two little
Caletta's
or Bays, in which is good anchoring for a small Vessel; and in each of these two Bays is a little Brook of fresh Water, which have their beginning from a plain of Sand; and if you go to the end of the Plain, you will see their Head. In this Port are very good Trees, that upon occasion will serve to make Masts for Ships. Here are also a great many Farms of Beeves, with good store of Maiz, Hogs, Fowls,
&c.
And here they make Salt not only to serve their own occasions, but also to supply several Towns and Villages hereabouts.
From this Port of
Angels
to the Port of
Guatulco,
is 16 Leagues. In the way are several Rocks, Islands and Rivers. At the Island
Sacrificio,
on the inside, is secure riding from all Winds, in five, six, and seven fathom water. And here you may wood and water your Ship, if you have occasion. Hereabouts are excellent Pearls, found in seven fathom water. This Port of
Guatulco
is famous for its being taken by our
English
Hero Sir
Francis Drake
in the Year 1579; who in one House took a
year
1704
Bushel of Money. It was afterwards taken and burnt by Sir
Tho. Cavendish
in the year 1587. But it has always been famous for being the Port in which from
Mexico
they send all such Goods as they design for
Peru.
'Tis also the Sea-port for the great Cities of
Coaxica
and
Orata.
It is distant from
Mexico,
65 Leagues; from
Coaxica,
50; and from
Orata,
35. It is all along high and mountainous Land. The Port lieth hid, and you cannot see it till you come within a League of it. About a League from the Port, is a small round Island, called
Tangola;
which is full of Hills and Trees. And close by the West Point of the Port, is a Rock; and three quarters of a mile to the Eastward of the Rock, and in the middle of the entrance of the Port, lieth the
Buffadore;
which is a small Rock; and when the Winds blow at S. W. the Sea breaketh a great heighth upon it: When therefore you would enter this Port, keep West from
Tangola,
till you have brought the middle of the Port to bear due North: Then keep an equal distance between the
Buffadore
and the East Point of the Port. The best anchoring is on the West side, due North from the Town, which consists of about 150 Houses,
Spaniards, Mullattoes, Mostese,
and
Indians.
In it is also a large Church, with two small Chapels; and the Houses are very
Fig: 22.
Fig: 23.
Fig: 24.
year
1704
well built of Stone and Brick. This Port lies in the Latitude of 15 d. 30 m. N.
See Fig. XXII.
And we found 1 d. 56 m. westerly variation.
From
Guatulco
to the River of
Capalita,
is one League. It is a very deep and swift River, and the Tide rises and falls five or six Foot.
From the River of
Capalita
to the River
Simatlan,
is three Leagues. This River is inhabited by
Indians;
and near to the Sea-side are a great many Plantain-walks. The River comes as it were from the Point of
Ajuta.
By the Sea-side are a great many Farms of Cattle.
From the River
Simatlan
to the Point of
Ajuta,
is two Leagues. Thence to the Islands of
Destata,
is five Leagues; all high mountainous Land. The Country hereabouts is very populous. Four Leagues within Land is said to be a great Town, called
El-Obispo.
It hath, as is said, four Churches, and at least 1300 Houses. All hereabouts are Plantain-walks; also several Estantions or Farms of Cattle. On the Sea-side, upon the Banks of the River of
Destata,
(which is right-against the two Islands of
Destata
) is a large
Indian
Town, with not above three or four
Spaniards
in it, who lord it over the poor
Indians.
From the Islands of
Destata
to the Morro or Mount of
Bamba,
is four Leagues.
year
1704
Right off it is a shoal of Sand a mile from the shore; which at High-water is said to have but six foot Water upon it. This Mount of
Bamba,
is a pretty high Land, and very rocky.
From this Mount of
Bamba
to the Mount of
Mazatlan,
is three Leagues. This
Mazatlan
has a River of fresh Water, and an anchoring place which is full of Rocks. The top of the Port look
white being all covered with Fowls Dung, so that there is none like it on all the Coast, except it be at
Salina:
Hereabouts the Coast is very windy; and from the N. E. come Hurricanes or
Tecoantepequers.
From the Mount of
Mazatlan
to the Port of
Salinas,
is four Leagues. By this
Salinas
the low Land beginneth: And near it are two Rocks. Here is made abundance of Salt; and the Inhabitants of
Tecoantepeque
bring hither abundance of Meat, Tallow and Hides to sell. From this Port many Commodities are shipp'd for the South Sea, to the great inriching of the Town, which consist of about fifty Houses of Merchants, who have the advantage of trading in the North and South Seas. They trade from the North Sea up the River of
Guasickwalpo,
in small Barks; and then have but 13 Leagues hither, good Road, as is said; so that Waggons pass it
year
1704
Five or six Leagues from hence, is the great Town of
Tecoantepeque,
a Bishop's See, and a very rich place. All along here the Coast is very populous, and great store of Pearl is found near the Shore, in the Bay of
Tecoantepeque;
which is a good Port, but much subject to N. and N. E. Winds, which at certain times blow very hard. VVhen you are off this Port of
Tecoantepeque,
do not come nearer the Land than two Leagues. For for 8 Leagues it is all along shallow VVater. But if you have occasion, send in small Boats or Canoas. It is all along low Land, excepting the Hill
Carbon;
which is a round Hill, almost like a Sugar-loaf. Near it is the River of
Tecoantepeque;
on the Banks of which, the Town is situated. In going into this River, you must go over a Bar of Sand; near unto which Bar, are some small Hills that lie a little within the low Land in the River, and are Islands. VVhen they appear to you like Hills, you may know it to be the Bar; and on the N. E. side is the Channel.
See Fig. XXIII.
This
Tecoantepeque
is a Harbour for small Vessels, such as trade to
Acapulco, Ria Lexa, Guatimala
and
Panama:
And here, upon some occasions, Ships which come from the Coast of
Peru
call in, in their way to
Acapulco.
This is the chief Port for
Guaxaca,
as
la Trinidad
is for
Guatimala; Ria Lexa
for
year
1704
Nicaragua;
and
Golfo de Salinas
for
Costa Rica.
Some few Years since, a
French
Pyrate being in this Bay, landed; and after the loss of some of his Men, took this Town of
Tecoantepeque,
with great slaughter of the Inhabitants. The VVomen, to the number of about fifty, they detained as Prisoners; and carried them to the Gulf of
Amapalla,
where after they had kept them two Months, and had made use of them according to their own VVills, they after an inhumane manner cut of their Noses and Ears, and so sent them back to their Husbands. This Port of
Tecoantepeque,
lies in the Latitude of 15 d. 36 m. North; and we found variation just off it by a good amplitude to be 2 d. 42 m. VVesterly.
At our passing by this place, we caught store of
Cat-fish.
These Fish are of various sizes, being from half a Foot to six Foot in length. It hath three Fins, one on his Back and one on each side near his Gills; each of which Fins has a sharp stiff Bone; so that we are very careful, when we catch them, in taking them off the Hook, least they should strike those sharp still Bones into our Hands; which if they do, it is ten to one but a Man loses the use of his Hand by it. He hath a great wide Mouth, and near it several small white grisly Strings, that come out like Cats
year
1704
Whiskers; which is the reason they are called
Cat-fish.
They are a good sort of Fish; and the young ones eat much like a Whiting.
From the Port of
Tecoantepeque
to the Bar of
Mosquito
's, is eight Leagues. It seems, to the Eastward, to be a great many Hills. And from the Bar of
Mosquito's
to the Hill of
Bernall,
is seven Leagues. In all which distance is very good anchoring, when the
Tecoantepequers
blow hard. Out of the Port of
Mosquito's
cometh a River, by which is abundance of Shoals. Towards the Sea-side, and to the N. W. hereabouts, it is low Land. From the Hill of
Bernal
to
Elzerro de la Encommendi
or the
Hill of Recommending,
is five Leagues. This
Bernal
makes the East Point of
Tecoantepeque,
as the Point of
Salina
does the West. The Land hereabouts is very hilly and mountainous; but the Hill of
Bernal
is the greatest. The Mountain of
Encommendi
is not very high. It is plain on the top, and lies half a League from the Sea-side; and on the side of it is fixt an artificial Cross; for which Reason it is called
Elzerro de la Encommendi,
or the
Cross of Recommending.
You may anchor where you please near to this Mount; for it is common for those Ships that are bound to the Port of
Tecoantepeque
(if the Wind blows hard, as it often does) to anchor here, when they cannot fetch the
year
1704
Port of
Mosquito's.
This Hill of
Bernal
lies in the Latitude of 15 d. North, and we found the variation, by a good amplitude, to be 2 d. 45 m. Westerly.
From the
Cross of Recommending,
to the Vulcan of
Soconusco,
is seven Leagues. It is all very high Land; And two or three Leagues from the Shore, it looks almost like a Sugar-loaf. In the Country the Land is very high; but the great Vulcan of
Soconusco
is the highest hereabouts. Every Night we saw abundance of Fires up and down in the Valleys: These Fires were made to burn down the Timber, the Ashes of which they reckon does mightily fatten the Land: For after the Trees and Bushes are burnt down, the Ashes of them makes the Land look very black; but in a Fortnights time, if they chance to have two or three showers of Rain, the Land will look very green and pleasant. This is the best and only way they have of fattening their Land. Near to this Vulcan of
Soconusco,
to the S. E. is the River of
Soconusco;
upon the Banks of which, is situated a large
Indian
Town of the same Name. For you must observe, that most of these Towns and Rivers take their Name from some famous Mountain, Hill or Vulcan standing by them. The Coast here all along, for many Leagues runs N. W. and S. E.
year
1704
From the Vulcan of
Soconusco,
to the Vulcans of
Amilpas,
is twelve Leagues. This is all very high and remarkable Land. The two highest Vulcans have each a River of fresh Water right against them. These Vulcans send out Smoke sometimes, but not often.
From the Eastermost Vulcan of
Amilpas,
to the Vulcan of
Sapotittlan,
is seven Leagues; here and there a sandy Bay, full of little Creeks; the Coast still stretching away S. E. This Vulcan of
Sapotittlan,
is a great Vulcan; and it is all towards the Sea-side very full of Trees. I have heard that before the
Spaniards
found out
Mexico,
this Mountain burnt out most terribly, and threw out Fire in so large a quantity, that it destroyed many Towns and Villages, with many Fields of Maiz or
Indian
Corn; and that the
Mexican
Priests foretold by this unusual Accident, that their Kingdom should be lost to strangers, who were contrary to them both in Religion, Colour, Habit and Customs. But since the coming of the
Spaniards,
I have not heard of its doing any hurt. This Vulcan lies in the Latitude of 13 d. 51 m. N. and we found variation near it, 2 d 51 m. Westerly.
From this Vulcan of
Sapotittlan,
to the Vulcan of
Sacatepeque,
is six Leagues. This Vulcan is in form almost like to a Beehive.
year
1704
It is a very great Mountain, and throws out vast quantities of Fire: so that this is, and the other formerly has been accounted, the wonder of this part of the World. To the Eastward of the Eastermost of these two Vulcans, is a River of good fresh Water, called by the same Name, but hard to come at, because there runs so great a Sea; and besides, here is no Port to go in with a Ship.
From the Vulcan of
Sacatepeque,
to the Vulcan of
Attitlan,
is seven Leagues. The Coast runs N. W. and S. E. This is a very large Mountain, commonly casting out Smoke. It lies in the Latitude of 13 d. 25 m. N. and we found variation off it 3 d. Westerly. A little to the S. E. of the said Vulcan, is a River of the same name; and upon the Banks of the River are said to be several pretty little
Indian
Towns; about which are several Gardens of several sorts of Fruits, with several Plantations of Maiz, and many Walks of Cocoas.
From this River of
Attitlan,
to the River of
Anabaces,
is four Leagues: Between which two Rivers the Land is not very high: And by the Sea-side are a great many Cocoa-nut-walks; but the Sea falls with such great force upon the Shore, that there is no landing with a Boat to get them.
year
1704
From the River of
Anabaces
to the fiery Vulcan of
Guatimala,
is eight Leagues. The Coast continues still to stretch away N. W. and S. E. This Vulcan of
Guatimala
commonly throws out Fire, but mostly in the rainy Season; which is from the latter end of
April
to the beginning of
October.
For the Rain then falling on it, makes it burn the fiercer. Behind this Vulcan is said to be the great City of
Guatimala,
which consists of 8500 Families, besides the Suburbs called
St Domingo;
in which may be about 350 Families more, besides innumerable of
Mullattoes, Mostese
and
Indians.
It is accounted, next to
Lima
and
Mexico,
to be the biggest and best traded City in all
America.
It is govern'd by a President; who in his own Territories, is as great as the Vice-Roys, (of
Peru
and
Mexico,
) and is not subordinate to either of Them, but only to the Council of
Spain.
The Natives of this place are very expert in Feather-work. They will make either Fish, Fowl, or Beast; Flowers, Trees, Herbs and Roots to admiration; nay, they will for a whole Day eat nothing, only to place one Feather in its due Perfection; turning and tossing the Feather to the light of the Sun, and then in the Shade, to see in which it looks best, and so accordingly place it. At this place groweth abundance of Cocoa.
year
1704
Beef, Mutton and Veal, is here so cheap, that for a Ryal, which is seven pence halfpenny, one may buy 25 Pounds. This famous City has been twice destroy'd by two dreadful Mountains, which stand near it; the one being of Water, which drowned it; and the other of Fire, which formerly burnt it; but now the
Spaniards
have removed the City three leagues further off; where they now live without fear of the two Vulcans; although, as I said before, that of Fire continually burns all the Winter, but without doing them damage, because the City is so far off. Off these two Vulcans we took a Bark of about eighty Tuns in her Ballast, nam'd the St
John.
From the fiery Vulcan to the River of
Ystapa,
is eight leagues. In it is a small Village of
Indians,
who are most of them Slaves to the
Spaniards
of
Guatimala.
The Coast here runs N. W. and S. E. The River
Ystapa
bears with the Mountains of
Guatimala
N. W. and S. E. You may know where the River is, by this following Sign; In the middle, overagainst the highest part of the Trees, is the Bar; and it lies South East from the Mountains of
Guatimala.
Take them upon what Point of the Compass you please, they will always appear in a Triangle.
year
1704
From the River of
Ystapa
to the River of
Monticalco de los esclavos
or the
River of Slaves,
is thirteen leagues. This River is much pestered with North Winds. To know the River, you must observe there are on the Sea-Coast some little high Mounts; In the Bar there are no Trees, any further than half a league distance on each side. But all this Part of the Coast (except it be near the Bar) is full of Trees. Along the Sea-Coast from
Guatimala
to this place, is all good Anchor-ground, and safe anchoring.
From the River
Monticalco,
to the Point of
Remidias,
alias
Sonsonate,
alias
Trinidad,
is thirteen leagues. The Point of
Remidias
is low Land; and there is a tract of Shoals that come above a league from it into the Sea; take heed of them. The best anchoring is in twelve fathom Water, right off the River, which is the Port of
Sonsonate.
See Fig. XXIV.
This
Sonsonate
is one of the greatest places of Trade on the Coast of
Mexico.
It lies in the Latitude of 13 d. 20 m. North. This famous place leads to a Country as populous as any in
America.
At the Sea-side are said to be thirty Houses, most Ware-houses; And it is govern'd by a
Teniente
under the Governour of
Trinidad.
From this Port to the City of
Trinidad,
is six leagues. It is said to have five
year
1704
Parish Churches, with between four and five hundred
Spanish
Families. In each Parish are spacious Walks and Gardens of Pleasure, all very artificially made. Along the Coast is very high Land. When you are right off the Port of
Sonsonate,
you will have the Valley of
Salvadore
open, where stands a Church and a small Town called
Guagamoco.
The chief Commodity along this Coast, is Cocoa: There is some trading from
Mexico
to this place, and from Port
Cavalles
in the North Sea; but the most and greatest Trade they have, is from the two great Empires of
Peru
and
Chili.
From Point
Remidias
to the Vulcan of
Isalco,
is three leagues. This Vulcan at certain times smoaks very much, and about it are great heaps of Ashes. You may know it by its being situated amongst a great many high Mountains, that are higher than it; and you may see them from the end of the Deserts of
Balsamo.
From this Vulcan begin the Mountains of
Morcois.
Although it has abundance of smoak issuing out of it, yet I never heard that it cast out any thing else.
From this Vulcan of
Isalco
to the Vulcan of St
Salvadore,
is five Leagues. The appearance of it is like unto a Turks Turbant. Between the two said Vulcans, close by the Sea-side, is the
Barnadillo,
year
1704
which is a high steep Rock, on one side appearing like a Pyramid. And mid-way between the
Barnadillo
and the Vulcan of St
Salvadore,
is a fresh Water River, whose Banks are very well peopled with
Indians.
From the Vulcan of
St Salvadore
to the great Vulcan of
Sacatelepa,
is six leagues. This Vulcan stands near the Sea-side. In the Year 1643, it was said to burst out, throwing out Sulphur and Ashes, which stopt the ways, and spoiled several Fields of Corn.
From hence to the great River of
Lempa,
is one league. That River has a great many Sands at the Mouth; but they are visible; so that you may steer in amongst them, without any danger. It is one of the biggest (if not the biggest) on the West-side of the Empire of
Mexico.
It is also said by the
Spaniards
to be a priviledged River; so that a Man who hath committed Murther, or any other Crime worthy of Death or Imprisonment, if he can make his escape to the other side, he is free so long as he liveth there; and no Justice or any Other on that side, can question or any way trouble him for the said Crime. At this River
Lempa
begins the pleasant Country of
St Michaels.
The Town of
St Michaels
is a large Town, said to consist of eight hundred
Spanish
Families, and hath seven fair and
year
1704
very rich Churches in it, with several small Chapels: And behind a great Vulcan, called the Vulcan of
St. Michaels,
is a great
Lagune,
whose Borders are very well peopled, with a mixture of
Spaniards, Mullattoes, Mostese
and
Indians.
In a place here called the
Red Creek,
are said to be built Ships of 800 Tuns. This Country is very plentiful of all Necessaries. The Earth brings forth Corn, Wine and Oil, almost without Man's help. At the Mouth of the River of
St Michael
(on the Banks of which the Town is situated) you will at low water have two fathom. In going in, the
Spaniards
always keep the Vulcan due North: And then there is no danger. It was from this Vulcan that we took our departure, when we quitted these parts to proceed on our Voyage for
India.
Over the River of
St Michaels,
the
Spaniards
have built a wooden Bridge. The Coast still continues to run North East and South West.
Near to the Vulcan of St
Michaels,
is the Gulf of
Amapalla.
This Gulf is eight or nine leagues deep, and four wide. At its Mouth are two large Islands; the one called
Amapalla,
and the other
Mangera;
and within is the Island
Conchagua;
at which we wooded and watered our Bark at our going to
India.
There are a great many other Islands in the Gulf; but none of
year
1704
them inhabited, except
Mangera
and
Amapalla. Amapalla
is the biggest, and on it is a small
Indian
Town or two of the same Name. There are two entrances into this Gulf; the one between Point
Casivina
and the Island
Mangera;
and the other between the Island
Mangera,
and the Island of
Amapalla:
But that between Point
Casivina
and the Island
Mangera,
has the deepest Water; yet it is better going in at the other, because with the Sea-wind you can run in at once. The nearer you come to any of these Islands, you will find the Water the deeper; For the Gulf is mostly shallow Water; And we were forced to keep the Lead going. At our coming out in our Bark, between
Amapalla
and
Mangera
we had often not above two fathom Water. The chief Town of
Amapalla
is mightily increased of late. For in it there is now said to be above a hundred
Spanish
Houses. It hath a great Traffick for its Cochineel, Cocoa, Hides, Indico, and all sorts of Provisions. It is govern'd by a
Teniente
under the President of
Guatimala.
There is another Village at the bottom of the Gulf, called
Chuluteca.
In it are about thirty or forty
Indian
Houses, with not above two or three
Spaniards
amongst them. They live by selling Provisions, which they truck for other Commodities; But these
year
1704
two or three
Spaniards
will not suffer the poor
Indians
to trade for themselves, saying, that Strangers will cheat them; and fail not to do it themselves, of three fourths of what they are entrusted with. Were it not for these unlawful shifts, the lazy
Spaniards
would not grow so rich as they do. Here are a great many Sands, Rivers and Shoals in this Gulf; and the chief place of anchoring for the
Spanish
Ships, is on the N. E. side of the Island of
Amapalla
in nine, ten and eleven fathom:
See Fig. XXV
Although we anchored at the Island
Conchagua.
The Island of
Amapalla
makes the West, as Point
Casivina
does the East point of the Gulf. The Point
Casivina
is a high rocky Point, which at a distance looks like an Island. It lies in the Latitude of 12 d, 45 N. and I reckon Longitude from
London
West, 97 d. 30 m. We found here 3 d. 26 m. westerly variation. The water we found to rise and fall nine Foot; and it is very full of Worms. At this place we caught several sorts of Fish; but the most remarkable was the
Shovelnos'd-Shark,
and a Fish by the
Indians
called a
Ceawau.
The
Shovel-nos'd-Shark
is in all respects the same as the common one; Only his Head is like a Colliers Shovel, and the two extreme parts (at the edge of which on each side are his Eyes) go a great deal
Fig. XXV.
PART OF MEXICO
year
1704
broader out than his Body. Besides, they have no Stones in their Heads, as the common Shark has. But they are both alike ravenous.
The
Ceawau
See Fig. XXVI.
was a Fish of about four Foot long. He had three Fins on his Back;
viz.
one small one at the hinderpart of his Head, a great one near the middle of his Back, and another small one towards his Tail. He had also two small ones underneath, near the Gills; and two small ones underneath, near the Tail; with two pretty large ones on each side, near the Gills. He had a large Mouth, and Teeth. He was an extraordinary good Fish; and his Head, when boiled, was nothing but a pure good Jelly. He was full of small Spots and Partings, as is express'd in the Figure. And the tip of his Fins and Tail was Yellow.
From the Point of
Casivina
to the
Messa de Roldon,
or the Hill of
Roldon,
is 5 leagues. It is a plain Hill; and at the top is a Table; near which is the Port of
Martin Lopez;
a fine Port, but very seldom made use of, for want of Trade. It is a very noted place, having on the top of it a great many white Clifts.
From this Port to the South East, distance four leagues, is the Port of
Ria Lexa,
by some called
Rio Leon.
It is a good and safe Port from all Winds. If
year
1704
you would enter this Port, keep the largest of the two Islands on the Larboard side: This Island, which you must leave on the Larboard side, is all Savannah: And when you are within it, bear off from the Land on the Starboard side, (for from the Main come many dangerous Sholes;) Then sail directly to the Anchoring-place, which is right against a small River on the said Island, and is three leagues before you come to the River. At the Anchoring-place, the Harbour is pretty broad; but from thence it turns away to the West, and grows narrower till you come to the Town, which is situated upon the River
Lexa
or
Leon.
It is said to consist of about eight hundred and fifty Families, being a mixture of
Spaniards, Mullattoes, Mostcse,
and
Indians.
The Houses are said to be very well built, of Brick and Stone; and that it hath five or six large Churches in it. As you come from Sea, the Mouth of this Port is hard to be seen; but look to the Vulcan of
Vejo,
and steer towards it; and you will see a Point, and near it a Rock, which is as high as a Ship: Make towards that Rock, and you will see a rising, until you open the Mouth, whose entry is at the North West part, and the Vulcan in the Harbour lies East. When you are in, you will find it all low Land, except the Vulcan of
Vejo,
which is a very great and high Vulcan,
Fig: 26.
A Ceawau
ig 28.
The Yellow Tayle
Fig 29.
showeth the Island
Magon,
the Wt most part seen, bearing W N. W. the Et most part E. N. E; and a large house in a white sandy bay beareing N.
from ye said house a Mile.
Fig: 30.
The form of ye Indian
Proe
wth its outleaker.
year
1704
commonly throwing out Smoke. It is a very noted Mountain, and may be known a great many leagues off, there being none (that I have seen) like it on all the Coast of
Mexico.
This Port of
Ria Lexa,
is a place of great Trade from most parts of
Peru
and
Mexico,
and is seldom or never without Shipping. In it they build small Vessels, and some Ships of 250 Tuns. This famous Port lies in the Latitude of about 12 d. 40m. N. Longitude from
London
97 d. 10 m. and we found variation 3 d. 58 m. westerly. The Islands are very low; so that every Tide they are overflown: And upon this low and swampy Land are abundance of Mangrove-Trees. Within Land they make a great deal of Pitch, Tar and Cordage; of which they send great quantities by shipping, and supply most of these Western parts of
Mexico, Peru
and
Chili.
From the Port of
Ria Lexa
to the River
de Tosta,
is three leagues. This River is sometimes dry; but if it were not, yet the Sea runs so high, and falls with such force upon the Shore, that there is no landing near it.
From hence to
Messa de Sutaba,
or the Mountains
Sutaba,
is six leagues, all high Land, on which falls a great Sea; It is also a very windy Coast, and runs N. W. b. W. and S. E. b. E.
year
1704
From the Mountains of
Sutaba
to the great Vulcan of
Telica,
is four leagues. This Vulcan is a great deal higher than all the Mountains near it, and it continually throws out many Stones, and smokes very much. It is a very windy and hard Coast, and no Port near it.
From the Vulcan of
Telica
to the Vulcan of
Leon Mamotombo,
is six leagues. This Vulcan formerly burst out at the top with Fire, and was said to do much hurt to all the Country for nine or ten Miles round; but it has ceased since, and suffers the Inhabitants to live in peace; altho' sometimes it will smoak; all the sulphurous Matter being not quite exhausted. The
Spaniards
tell a Story of a
Spanish
Friar, who thought to have discovered some Treasure within this Vulcan, which might enrich himself and all the Country; he being possest in his own Mind that the stuff which burned within this Mount, was Gold; whereupon he caused a great Iron-Kettle to be made, and hung it to an Iron-Chain, and let it down, thinking to draw up Gold enough to buy him a Bishoprick; but such was the power and great heat of the Fire within, that he had no sooner let it down, but both Kettle and Chain melted away, and so frustrated the poor Friar of his hoped for Bishoprick. Beyond this Vulcan, more within Land is s
year
1704
ituated the City of
Leon,
from which the Vulcan took its Name. The
Spaniards
say there are eleven Churches in it, and about a Thousand Houses well built, with many good Gardens and Orchards, in which are many fine Water-works in the shapes of Birds, Beasts and Fowls. The Inhabitants are said to be very rich, driving a great Trade both by the North and South Seas. It is ruled by a Governour, who is not subordinate to any but the Vice-roy of
Mexico
and the Council of
Spain.
From this Vulcan of
Leon
to the Mountain of
Martiare,
is two leagues. This Mountain is very plain, and has a Table on the top. At the West end of it, is a fine small Cove, and at the bottom of the Cove a River of fresh Water; but here falls so great a Sea upon the shore, that there is no landing.
From the Mountain of
Martiare
to the Port of St
John,
is five leagues. In this Port they commonly build small Vessels; but here often runs so great a Sea, that no Boat can go ashore, unless by chance. This is a pretty good Port, and in it you are defended from the N. W. and other Northerly Winds. At the East point of this Port lie four small Islands, or rather Rocks, which make a good defence for the Port against S. E. Winds; and at the bottom of the Port, in the middle, is a River of fresh Water.
year
1704
From hence to the Point of St
Catharine,
is fifteen leagues. And between them is the Gulf of
Popogajo,
an ill place to go ashore in, and worse to ride in, being very windy, but especially from
April
to the latter end of
September,
which is the time for the North Winds. From this Gulf you will see within Land the great Vulcan of
Granada;
and near the Seaside stands the Vulcan of
Bombacho;
both casting out much smoak. They are two noted Vulcans; That of
Granada,
up in the Country, is in form of a Bee-Hive; the other of
Bombacho,
which stands near the Sea-side, hath three high Peeks on the top of it. In the middle of the Gulf, is a River of fresh Water; but the Sea falls with so great force upon the Shore, that there is no landing near it: And in the middle of the Gulf, by the Sea-side, the Land is low; till you come to the great Mountain of
Popogajo;
which is a vast high Mountain, and is in form of a Sugarloaf. It is called
Popogajo,
from the abundance of Parrots that continually resort about it. This Mountain stands upon the Point of St
Catharine,
which is low Land; and off it lie two Rocks or small Islands.
From these Rocks or small Islands to the Port of
Velas,
is nine leagues. The Coast runs N. N. W. and S. S. E. About
year
1704
three leagues to the S. E. of the Point of St
Catharine,
are two Rocks more, which are of a whitish Colour: And from thence to the S. E. distance two leagues, is a River of fresh Water, called the River of
Velas;
but at the Mouth of it, are several Sands and Shoals. At this River to the South Eastward the Land begins to be mountainous. In the Port of
Velas
is the Vulcan of
Zapanzas;
and in the East part of the Port, near the Port, are many Sands stretching from the shore for a mile. At the bottom of the Port, which is at the S. E. end, is a good fresh Water River; at which you may water your Ship if occasion be: And right off the said River, is the anchoring place. To the West of the anchoring place, is a bluff Point stretching out into the Sea; and about this Point are a great many Shoals and Rocks, with foul Ground, which stretch near three leagues into the Sea. Come not near them, for they are very dangerous. These Rocks are called
Velas,
because at a distance they look like a Ship under Sail.
From these Rocks to the Mount of
Hermozo,
is seven leagues, S. S. E. This
Hermozo
is a high Hill, but higher at the West than East end. It runs out butting into the Sea, and from thence grows higher and higher within Land. At this
year
1704
Mount of
Hermozo,
you may see the Port of
Velas:
And between these two places is a little high Island, which is two leagues from the shoar. Whether there be any sailing for a Ship between it and the Main, I know not.
From the Mount of
Hermozo
to the Cape of
Gajones,
is eight Leagues. The Coast runs S. E. by E. and N. W. by W. all along mountainous and very bad and rocky, and no port for any Ship to anchor in. The Cape of
Gajones,
is a very noted Cape: It is not altogether so high as the Mount of
Hermozo;
but on the top it is very even and plain. It goes down on the West with a bending like a Saddle, which joins it to the Mount of
Hermoso;
and also on the East it bends down in like manner, and is joined to another Mountain, which Mountain is plain and even on the top, and in all respects looks like the Cape of
Gajones;
only the Cape of
Gajones
is something fuller of Trees; and to know them from each other, you must note that the Westermost of the said two even Mountains, is the Cape.
From the Cape of
Gajones,
to Cape
Blanco
is twelve leagues. In the way are two dangerous Shoals; they lie distant from the Main about one league, and at low Water may be seen almost dry. Between the two aforesaid Capes is a small
year
1704
Bay, called the Bay of
Caldera.
Your best anchoring is at the North-part of it, at which place you may see the River of
Sparca,
distant about half a league; at which is said to be excellent good wooding and watering; and upon the Banks of the River are situated several small
Indian
Towns and Villages. Cape
Blanco
or
White Cape,
is the Westermost Point of the Gulf of
Nicoya;
as the
Herradura
is the East. The Cape lies in the Latitude of 10 d. 20 m. North. To the N. W. of it, lie three small low Islands, distant from it about a league. The Cape is high Land, but higher within Land than near the Water-side. It is very full of tall Trees of several sorts; and at the pitch of the Cape is a small Island very full of Trees. The Land is of a whitish Colour, perhaps occasioned by the Dung of Fowls; of which there are a great many that resort thither, as they do to all the Islands in the Gulf. This Island at a distance looks as if it joined to the Cape; and it being of a whitish Colour, as I said before, gives name to the Cape. From this Cape
Blanco
Northward along the Coast of
Mexico,
until you come to the Gulf of
Amapalla,
many times for two or three days together, you will meet with hard Gales of Wind from the Land, which are called
Popagajos:
These Winds are very frequent in the
year
1704
Months of
May, June, July,
and
August;
which is the worst of the bad Weather Monsoon, or Winter time here.
From Cape
Blanco
to the
Herradura,
is nine Leagues; between which is the Gulf of
Nicoya.
It is a place much used by the
Spaniards.
Captain
Sharp
in this place, in the River
De la despenza,
took some
Spanish
Carpenters, who were building a Ship, and brought them to the Island
Chira,
with all their Tools, on board of his own Ship; where they refitted her; and in the River
Tempisque
they took two Barks laden with Tallow. In this same Gulf, in the Year 1704, near the Island
Saint Lucas,
we took a Bark of about forty Tuns. She had on board some Wine, Brandy and Sugar, with five or six
Indian
Carpenters and Caulkers, who came in a good time to help us to clean our Ship, and to refit her, if we had plank to do it with. At a heap of small Islands lying in the middle of the Gulf, called the
Middle Islands,
we hauled our Ship ashore, (as has been before related,) and cleaned her as well as we could. We found the Water here at Nepe-tides to rise and fall eight foot; at Spring-tides, more. We lay here about two Months; and refitted, wooded and watered our Ship. Near the Cape is a small Village of
Indians;
and before the Village are a great many Sands,
Fig: XXVII.
PART of MEXICO
year
1704
Rocks and Shoals; so that it is very difficult landing near it; but not far of, are two good anchoring places. On the other side of the Gulf, almost right against this Village, is the little Bay, called the Bay of
Caldera;
and right over the Bay, is a plain even Land, called the Table of
Macotela;
near to which are two or three poor
Indian
Fishermens Houses. All Ships bound for
Nicoya
anchor at the Island of
Chira;
See Fig. XXVII.
from whence the Town of
Nicoya
is distant about ten Leagues; consisting of about seventy or eighty Houses, being a mixture of
Spaniards
and
Indians.
This is said to be a pretty well compacted Town, and Head of a
Spanish
Government. It is governed by an Alcade or Mayor. From it come Fowls, Salt, Honey, and other Provisions, which they yearly send to
Panama
in small Vessels. The
Nicoyans
are a People of a middle Stature, and tawny Complexion. Before
he coming of the
Spaniards,
they had very good Laws among themselves; only
hey had no Law against a Man's killing
is Father, Mother, or King: They, as I
uppose, thinking no Man would or could
e so very wicked, as to murder either his
wn Parents, or the common Father of
em all, whom they used to adore as a God. A Thief they judged not to die,
ut to be made a Slave to the Man he
year
1704
robs, till by his Service he has made Satisfaction. This Gulf is very much infested with Worms. To some of these Islands the
Spaniards
frequently come to fish for Pearl, of which they often make very profitable Voyages. Here are also vast numbers of extraordinary good Sea-turtle: And up most of the Rivers (of which here are a great many) are several good Plantain-walks, at which we got store of Plantains. In the Island of
Chira,
which lyes at the bottom of this Gulf of
Nicoya,
(and which, as I said before, is the common anchoring place for the
Spanish
Ships which trade to
Nicoya,
) is a small Village of
Indians,
of about thirteen or fourteen Houses, built of Palmeto Leaves. Here Captain
Sharp
formerly filled his Water in a Pond near the Sea-side: And here the poor
Indians
related to them the sad usage they met with from their cruel Masters the
Spaniards,
who make them work for them, because they have nothing to pay them tribute with. They have a small Chapel here; and here they used formerly to make a great many Earthen Jars; but now the
Indians
are most of them run away, to get free from their cruel Masters the
Spaniards.
In this Gulf are Sea-turtle, and Fish of several sorts. Of Birds, here are the Pelican, the Carrion-crow, and the Maccaw Birds; of
year
1704
which I have already given a Description.
From the
Herradura
which makes the East-point of this Gulf of
Nicoya,
to the River
Estrella
or Star-River, is eleven Leagues. The Coast runs N. W. by W. and S. E. by E; the Land something mountainous and steep. Near this River are the
Sierras de los Coronados,
or the Crowned Mountains. These are very noted Mountains, so that there is none like them on all the Coast. They are five or six Ridges of Mountains, each gradually surmounting the other; and those within the Land are highest. At the West end of these Mountains are four Rocks, called by the
Spaniards Farallones de Queipo.
You may sail between them and the Main, and there is deep Water enough. These Rocks are bare, having no Trees or Bushes on them.
From hence to the Island
Caneo,
is four Leagues. This Island is a League round, and indifferent high Land, well clothed with streight and tall Trees. It lies in the Latitude of 10 d. N. The anchoring place is on the N. E. side, in fourteen fathom Water, a quarter of a Mile off the shore; where you may wood and water. Upon this Island are said to be some few wild Hogs; but for what purpose they were first set ashore here, I know not:
year
1704
For the Island is uninhabited. There ar
several small Islands and shoals, which ly
about it towards the North and West and to the N. E. by E. is
Punta mala
o
bad Point; and within this
Punta mala
i
a deep and fine Bay, wherein Sir
Thoma
Cavendish
formerly cleaned his Ship. The shore is full of Shoals; therefore keep a good League off it.
Punta mala
is low, and from it there stretch out several Sands and Shoals; and in the middle of the Sands is a small Island, which at a distance shows like a Ship under sail. It is an even Country, but very woody; and in the Woods are said to be store of Deer. The Coast runs N. W. by W. and S. E. by E.
From
Punta mala
to the
Golfo Dulce
or sweet Gulf, is nine Leagues; the Land pretty even and woody. Within this Gulf is a very good Harbour, and the Water is very smooth. This is accounted as good a Gulf to ride in, as the Gulf of
Nicoya;
and in it you are secure from all Winds; nay even from the
Spaniards
themselves; for the Sea-Coast is clear of them; but here are
Indians,
who are very friendly to the
English.
They are but few, and live here to shun the
Spaniards.
Yet they are obliged to pay half the Fish they catch, to the Fryar of a Town which is four Leagues up in the
year
1704
Country. They have here store of Honey, Plantains, and Cassavy-root. Here are two Rivers at the bottom of this Gulf, where there is good wooding and watering; and here is good laying a Ship a ground to clean; for the Water rises and and falls nine or ten Foot at Spring-tides. The Country is mountainous and very woody; and here are a great many Walks of Plantains and Coco-nuts; and in the Woods are store of wild Deer. At the West-entrance of this Gulf are two Rocks, from which to the Point of
Burica
is five Leagues. This is a low Point, running into the Sea. From the Southward it shows like two Islands. It is shoal a good way off; therefore with a great Ship keep a good League and half off shore. This Point is full of Coco-nut-trees. Right off it, distance about a League and half, is a Rock; and there is no going between it and the said Point. To the Eastward of the Point of
Burica,
(which lyes in the Latitude of 09 d. 00 m. N.) the Land makes a long and deep Bay, in which are a great many Islands Rivers, Rocks, Shoals and Sands; but the most noted is the River of
Chirique,
which lyes in the middle and bottom of the Bay, and on the Banks of which is situated a
Spanish
Town of the same Name with the River. In it are about fifty Houses, built of Brick,
year
1704
and covered with Palmeto-leaves. You may see hence within the Land a Hill called
Barn,
at whose Foot is another small Town of about forty or fifty Houses. The Trade here is mostly for
Muntego,
(Butter,) Indigo, Pitch, Tarr, and Provisions of all sorts; which is the common Trade of all this Coast. The River of
Chirique
is seldom without Shipping, which bring Trade to it from the City of
Panama
and other places in the Country. It is said to be very well people with
Spaniards, Mullattoes, Mostese
and
Indians.
And in the Woods is said to be plenty of Beeves, Deer, and wild Hogs. The most noted Island in this Bay, is the Island of
Montuosa.
This Island is round and high, and near it are two Rocks, called the
Ladrones.
They are distant from each other three quarters of a Mile. And at the South end of the Island is a Shoal of Sand, which runs a Mile into the Sea. Further in the Bay are several other Towns, Villages, Rivers and Islands: Particularly the Town of
Puebla Nova
or the New-town; (although now it is of an old standing;) which is three Leagues from the Sea-side up a River of the same Name; in which Ships are said to ride in four fathom VVater, not above half a Mile from the Town. VVithin the Mouth of this River, on the Lar-board side going in, is a Rock called
year
1704
Silva,
from the continual Noise it makes in the Night like Musick. But here Captain
Sawkins,
formerly paid the Piper. For going ashore to take the Town of
Puebla Nova,
he was killed by an Ambuscade of the
Spaniards;
at which they are very dextrous, and had rather fight so lurking amongst Trees and Bushes, than face their Enemy in open Field; unless they happen to be fifteen or twenty to one; and then they will face you bravely in the open Field. This Coast is famous for Pearl-fishing. For at most of these Islands are built Huts, on purpose for the Fishers, who are
Indians,
and are Servants to the
Spaniards
that live upon the Main. Not far from them the Main is woody and full of wild Deer, who are not easily scared. Also here are a great many Turtle, who are very large, fat and sweet. Here are also abundance of Fish, which are extraordinary good.
Not far from hence is the Island of
Quibo.
This Island lies in the Latitude of 7 d. 10 m. North. At it are a great many Turtle: The Island is pretty low, but stored with several sorts of Medicinal Herbs, called by the
Spaniards, Herba Maria.
The Island is all round full of large and tall Trees; and upon it in several places is to be found very good Water. There is good anchoring at this Island in ten and twelve fathom
year
1704
Water, not above half a mile from the Shore. At this Island they fell a great deal of Timber, with which they build small Vessels, accounted the best in these Parts.
Off the South-point of this Island, lyeth another Island called
Quicara.
It bears S. S. W. from
Quibo,
distance one league. Between these two Islands is a very good Channel, through which you may pass securely without any danger, and come to an anchor in
Quicara
Road, which lyeth in a Bay. On the N. E. part of thi
Bay is pretty deep Water; and in the middle of it cometh a River over-against a Rock, near to which Rock is twenty fathom Water. If you please to go ashore with your Boat to get Wood, Water and Coco-nuts, you must go between the Rock and the Point, which will defend you from the S. S. W. Winds.
On the North-part of the Island o
Quibo,
is the Island
Rancheria,
which is a small but very woody Island; and th
Trees which grow on it, are said to b
very good for Masts, which use the
Spaniards
often put them to. There are a grea
many Islands more hereabouts, with several good Ports and Rivers, that you ma
enter with a Ship of six hundred Tun
The Bay is full of Islands, and no dange
in any of them but what is visible. Th
year
1704
Coast is all secure; only you will find great and uncertain Currents, occasioned by the many Bays, Islands and Rivers in it. And most of these Islands are very well clothed with tall Trees, and afford very good Water.
From Point
Canales
to Point
Mariato,
the Land makes another Bay; in which are also a great many Islands and Rivers, which have several of them large Sholes stretching from them into the Sea. Between these two Points is an Island, called the
Govanadore.
On it is said to be good Wood and Water; and here are some
Negroes,
who are Slaves to the
Spaniards
that come hither to cut Timber, of which here is good store. This is a small round Island, and hath at its West Point a Shole of Sand, which runneth into the Sea about a Mile.
A little to the Northward of this Island of
Govanadore,
and further into the Bay is another Island, called the
Leones;
in which is good Wood and Water. It is a much larger Island than the Island of
Govanadore,
and has a Shole of Sand quite round the East-side of it. There is a Channel between these two Islands; but when you go through, take care that you keep the Lead going, and have a care of the East Point of
Leones
and the West Point of
Govanadore.
Here are a great many other Islands,
year
1704
Rivers and Rocks; but none of any note, till you come to the Point of
Mariato;
neither is there any, or but very little, Trade here by shipping.
The Point of
Mariato
is high Land; and near it are the Mountains of
Guarco,
which are very high Mountains, and very woody; and amongst these Mountains is the
Moro de Porcos,
or the Mountain of Hogs. It is a high round Hill, as high as any of the Mountains of
Guarco.
There are great store of Hogs which run wild up and down these Mountains; from whence, I suppose, this Mount of
Porcos
took its Name.
From the Point of
Mariato
to the Point of
Higuera,
is eighteen leagues; the Coast running East and West; In all which distance it is clear and good Anchor-ground. Two leagues to the Westward of Point
Higuera,
is the Mount of
Porcos;
and right against it is a fine Bay; at the entrance of which, on the East-side, is a shole of Sand, and in the midst of the shole is a little Rock: Take heed how you come near it. On the other side, at the West Point of the said Bay, is a small Island; near which is the best Anchor-ground; And at the bottom of the Bay, is a River of fresh Water.
From the Point of
Higuera
to
Puntamala,
is fourteen leagues. The Coast runs
year
1704
W. S. W. and E. N. E. Between these Points are two Rocks called, the
Two Friars:
You may sail safely between them and the Main Land, or in the Channel between them both, or without them both, according as you think fit. Here are several small Rivers of no great note or use; as the River
Cascajales,
the River
Oria,
and several others. Upon
Punta-mala
is a small Village of
Indians
and
Spaniards,
called the
Village of Captain Luis del Gado.
This
Punta-mala
is certainly very justly so named. Do not by any means come near it with your Ship; for it hath an innumerable company of Rocks and Sholes, that stretch out above a league into the Sea. Near this Point are kept a great many Farms of Beeves.
A little to the Northward of this bad Point, is the Island
Guanoes;
which has a very good anchoring-place on the North-East side, next the Main Land, in eighteen fathom water, in a sandy Bay, where you are defended from most VVinds. The Island is not very high, and it is well clothed with many tall Trees; and on it is very good water. Right over against it, on the Main, are several sorts of Provisions to be had; as Beef, Pork, Bread, Flower,
&c.
if you are strong enough to take it. And if you have a mind to lay your Ship ashore to clean, the Island
Guanoes
is a good place.
year
1704
From this Island to the Town of
Nata,
is fourteen Leagues; the Land pretty low by the Sea-side, with several Rivers; but the chief, next to that of
Nata,
is the River of
Saints;
on the Banks of which is situated a Village of the same name, called by the
Spaniards, Villa de los Santos.
It is a small Village of not above eighteen or twenty Houses, mostly
Indians.
Why it is called the
Village of Saints,
I know not. About seven leagues from this
Village of Saints,
is the Town of
Nata;
between which two places are four or five small Rivers, and abundance of Sholes near the main Land. The Town of
Nata
is a large and well-compacted Town, situated upon the Banks of a River of the same Name. It has great trade with
Panama,
selling them Provisions, as Cows, Hogs, Fowls, Maiz,
&c.
Here are several other Towns of note: But though they are as great and populous as
Nata,
yet they have not any of them so many white Men; for the mixt Blood is so spread, that for one White, here are a hundred Blacks and Mullattoes, who are of a yellow colour, between black and white.
From
Nata
the Coast stretches in Mountains and Hills; and the water is so shole, that there is scarce any coming in for a Ship; but if there were, here is never a Port. Although it is high and mountainous
year
1704
in the Country, yet by the water-side the Land is not very high. Between the Town of
Nata
and the Point
de Chaine,
are several Rivers; and behind the Hills is a Valley, called
Sapo;
from whence they fetch Hogs and Fowls for the City of
Panama,
as they do from most places hereabouts. Along this Coast Ships ought to keep two or three Leagues off Shore, or else they will meet with broken Ground and sunk Rocks: But the Coast has many fresh-water Rivers full of several sorts of very good Fish, which the
Indians
catch and send several Leagues round; Fishing being an Employ peculiar to these
Indians,
though it rewards them but very slenderly, because they pay such great Customs out of it to the
Spaniards.
CHAP. VI.
A Particular Description of the Coast of
Peru.
The Bay of
Panama.
The City of
Panama.
Island of
Perica.
The Island
Tabago.
The
Kings Islands.
The Island
Chepelio. Cheapo
River and Town. The Island
Planta.
Cape St
Lorenzo.
The Gulf of St
Michaels.
Point
Garachina.
Port
Pinas.
Ports of
Quemado
and
Santa Clara.
Bay of St
Antonio.
The River of
Sande.
Cape
Corrientes.
Bay and River of
Bonaventura.
The Island
Palmas. Gorgonia. Gallo. Tomaco
River and Town. The
Ancon
of
Sardinas.
The River of St
Jago.
Bay of St
Mattheo.
The Bay of
Tacames.
The Point of
Gallera.
Cape St
Francisco.
The Rainy Season from
California
to Cape St
Francisco;
beyond which, the Rains seldom extend to the Southward: And th
year
1704
same observed concerning the Worms.
Apottete.
The Rivers of
Cogimes.
Mountains and Village of
Coaque.
Cape
Passao.
The Bay of
Caracas. Manta.
A remarkable Observation of the Wind between Cape
Passao
and Cape
Blanco.
Cape St
Lorenzo.
The Island
Plata. Salongo.
The Rocks
Ahoreados.
The River and Island
Colanche.
Town and Point of St
Hellena.
Bay of
Guiaquil.
Point
Chandy.
The Islands St
Clara
and
Puna. Guiaquil.
Point
Arena.
The River
Tumbes.
Cape
Blanco.
Point
Parina.
An Observation of the Winds upon the Coasts of
Peru
and
Chili.
Port of
Payta
and the River
Colan.
Mountains of
Motapa.
The Islands,
Lobos de Terra
and
Lobos de la Mar.
The Ports of
Chiripi
and
Pacasmayo. Malabrigo. Chicama. Truxillo.
The Island of
Saints.
Port of
Cosma.
Of
Vermejo.
Mount of
Mongon.
Port of
Guarmey.
year
1704
The Port of
Guara.
Of
Chancay.
The Rocks
Piscadores.
The Islands
Ormigas. Callau. Lima.
Port of
Chilca. Guarco. Chinca. Pisco.
High Land, without Rain or Rivers. Several small Ports. Mount of
Atico.
Vulcan of
Ariquipa.
Port and River of
Ylo. Arica.
Bay of
Majalones.
Mount of
Moreno.
AT the Point
de Chaine
begins the great Bay of
Panama;
which is the greatest Sea-port, next
Lima,
of any on the West-side of this great Continent of
America.
It is said to have eight Parish Churches, thirty small Chappels, and to contain six Thousand and five Hundred Houses, most of them well built of Brick and Stone. It is very well fortified, and walled all round with Stone: The City is governed by a President under the Viceroy of
Peru;
it being part of his Territories. On the back-side of the City, is a very pleasant and fruitful Country. The Land is not very high, but full of small Hills, and fine pleasant Valleys, in which there are several fine Gardens of several sorts of Fruit. This is a place of the greatest Trade of any in the South
year
1704
Seas, not excepting even
Lima
the Metropolis. For this City has the conveniency of Trade both from the North and South Sea: From the North Sea, it receives all or most of the
European
Goods which are brought by the
Spaniards
to
Portobel
or
Carthagena,
or by any other Nation trading on the North-side: And these
European
Goods are from hence by shipping in the South Sea sent to
Guiaquill, Truxillo, Lima, Arica, Coquimbo, Govanadore, Valpirizo
and
Valdivia,
with several other noted places; from whence they return back richly laden with the Commodities of these Parts. But now the
French
having a trade amongst them, and supplying them with all
European
Necessaries, it hinders this City mightily; and the
Spaniards,
as far as we could hear, whilst we were in these Parts, had rather have their room than their Company. However the
French
at present make very great and profitable Voyages; and now that they find the sweet of it, they will be sure, if they can, to settle a firm and lasting Trade here. For, as we have been assured by several
Spanish
Captains whom we took, they have made better than 5000
per Cent.
of their Goods, one with another. This City stood formerly four Miles to the Eastward of the place where it now stands; But it being taken and kept a Month by
year
1704
Sir
Henry Morgan,
and by misfortune burnt three times since; they thought the place unlucky, and so built it by the Seaside where it now stands. It is now much larger, stronger and better built, than it was before. The Port of
Perica
is the Harbour for
Panama;
but distant from it three Miles. For the great ebbing and shoalness of the Water, will not suffer any great Ship to come any nearer than the said Island of
Perica,
which is far out of Command of their Guns at
Panama:
Therefore shipping may easily be taken out. But although great Ships are forced to lie here, yet small Vessels run through a little Creek close up to the City.
From
Panama
to the Island
Tabago,
is between five and six Leagues, and they bear nearly North and South from each other. This Island of
Tabago,
is in length one league, in breadth about half a league. The Island is high and mountainous, but highest at the South end. It is very well clothed with Trees of several sorts; and on it are several Walks of
Plantains, Bonanoes, Coco-nuts,
&c. which they send to sell at
Panama.
Upon this Island, on the North-side, is a small Village of thatcht Houses, inhabited by
Negroes,
who are Slaves to the Gentlemen at
Panama,
and are kept here on purpose to look after their
year
1704
Walks of Fruit. Right against the said small Village is the common anchoring place, in which there is tolerable good anchoring in seventeen or eighteen fathom Water. There are two other small Islands just by it; They are both very well clothed wth Woods; aad on them are some few
Negroes,
as there is upon most or all of these Islands in the Bay of
Panama.
To the South East of these
Islands
is a great range of Islands, called the
Kings Islands;
they are most of them pretty low and pleasant Islands, and very well clothed with tall streight Trees of several sorts. About them are a great many very good anchoring places; and upon most of them is good Wood, Water and Fruit. They are in all about forty in number. On the great Island called the
Kings Island
(which gives name to all the rest) the
Spaniards
build good Vessels, which are commonly counted pretty good Sailers. You must observe, that amongst these Islands you will hardly find much more or less than sixty fathom Water, unless you are very near them. Amongst these Islands the Water rises and falls ten foot perpendicular.
From
Panama
to the Island
Chepelio,
is eight Leagues. Upon this Island are some
Mullattoes
and
Negroes,
belonging to the
year
1704
Gentlemen of
Panama.
The Island is mostly planted with Rice, as are a great many of the
Kings Islands,
which are about ten Leagues distance from hence. Right against this Island, on the Main, is a large River called
Cheapo;
and seven Leagues up the said River, is a Town of the same Name, which is very plentiful of Provisions.
From
Chepelio
to the Island of
Planta,
is seven leagues. It lies a league from the Main, and the water about it is indifferently deep; but near the Main it is all along shole water, not above four Foot, though you be a league from the shore.
From hence to
Cape Saint Lorenzo,
is ten leagues. This Cape is low Land, full of Creeks; and near it, is shole water. At this Cape begins the Gulf of St
Michael,
in which are a great many Islands, Rivers and Sholes; although in some places the Water is deep and smooth, and good anchoring. It was up one of these Rivers that we went, designing to take the Town of
Santa Maria;
but were frustrated of our intent: Yet we took an
Indian
Town, which we called
Scuchadero.
It was about three leagues within the Mouth of the River, and situated on the South-side of it. In it we found store of Dunghil-Fowls, Parrots, white and black Beans, Yams, Potatoes, Maiz,
&c.
It consisted of about
year
1704
two hundred and fifty Houses; and round about the Town were great Walks of Fruit, as Plantains, Bonanoes,
&c.
There is another Town on the North-side of the River, called
Scuchadero,
which Captain
Dampier
mentions in his First Vol.
p.
195; But this we could not find, and so gave the other Town its name; and from thence returned on board our Ships again, which we left lying at Point
Garachina,
which Point I make to lie in the Latitude of 7 d. 20 m. North. The Tide runs here five Knots and a half
per
hour. It rises and falls three Fathom; and ebbs and flows N. E. and S. W.
From Point
Garachina
to Port
Pinas,
is seven leagues, North and South. The Port of
Pinas
has two small Islands at the Mouth of it; But, if you please, you may sail close by them; for there is no danger; neither is there less than twelve or fourteen Fathom water. At this place is good wooding and watering. The Land is high and very woody, and goes up hollow in the middle. It is very full of Pine-Trees, and thence called Port
Pinas.
In some part of this Port, is good anchoring; and in the Port are three Rivers of fresh water; and the Banks of the Rivers are full of tall streight Trees. The Port lies in the Latitude of 7 d. North. Longitude from
London
West, 82 d. 00 m. And a
year
1704
little to the Southward of this Port are five or six small Rocks.
From Port
Pinas
to Port
Quemado,
is twenty-five Leagues. At its Mouth are several Rocks and Islands; and along this Coast, are several good Harbours. The Land here, is not so high as at Port
Pinas;
but in many places here are very pleasant Walks of Coco-nuts. The Coast is very deep and dangerous in Winter-time. At the bottom of Port
Quemado,
are two Rivers of fresh water; and at the entrance of the Port, both on the North and South side, are several small Islands, or rather Rocks: Keep mid-way between both Points, and you may go in very securely. But this is no very secure Port, and seldom or ever made use of.
A little to the Southward of this Port of
Quemado,
is the Port of
Santa Clara.
Off this Port lie four Rocks; and in the middle of it is a small River. It is but a bad Port, lying open to the South West and other Southerly Winds, which in the Winter time blow very hard here. This Port lies in the Latitude of six Degrees North.
From Port St
Clara
to the Bay of Saint
Antonio,
is five leagues, all very low Land, which in the rainy time is covered with water; only the tops of the Trees to be seen. Along the shore are a great many small Islands, Rocks and Sholes; Therefore,
year
1704
be sure, keep without them; for they are very dangerous. In the little Bay of St
Antonio,
is a small Village, now possest by
Indians,
but formerly built by some
Franciscan
Fryars who were put ashore here by the
Spaniards
to convert the
Indians;
but it being a bad place, often overflown with water, and the
Indians
being very poor, the Friars quitted the Village; of which the
Indians
have now possession. It is but bad going into this Bay, by reason of a great shole of Sand, which runs a great way into the Sea from its North-Point; And when you are in, you lie open to the South, the South West, and other westerly Winds.
From this Bay to the River
Sande,
is six leagues; Between which the Land rises in six Mounts, not very high, but at a distance they look like six Islands. They are called the
Anegadas,
and stretch from the Bay of St
Antonio
to the River of
Sande.
This River of
Sande
is a great River; and upon the Banks it is well inhabited by
Indians,
who are not under the
Spanish
Government. They are very poor; and their Poverty protects them from the
Spaniards;
who, if there was any thing to be got, would be sure to croud in amongst them. The Coast all along here is deep, and you may sail close to the shore in 10 and 12 fathom water, clean owsie Ground.
year
1704
From the River
Sande
to Cape
Corrientes,
is twelve leagues. Cape
Corrientes
is very high Land; and when you are at Sea, it looks like an Island. On the top it hath three Hillocks. It is in the Latitude of 5 d. North. And at the Point of it, lies a small Rock. It is a clear and good Coast, but often subject to Rains.
From hence the Land runs into a great Bay, called the Bay of
Bonaventura;
in which are a great many Rivers, Islands and Sholes. From Cape
Corrientes
to the great River of
Bonaventura,
is twentythree leagues. In the mid-way is the Island
Palmas,
which is a small woody Island, and hath a Sand on the South East side, stretching from one end of the Island to the other. Whether there be any Springs of fresh water on it, I know not; but very probably, if any one stood in great need of water, he might find some here; For the Rains fall very plentifully here; So that in the Valleys and Holes there can hardly be any want of Water. This Island lies in the Latitude of 4 d. 15 m. N. and we reckoned Longitude from
London
W. to be 77 d. 10 m.
From the River of
Bonaventura
to the Island
Gorgonia,
is twenty-five leagues, S. W. Between which are a great many small Rivers, at whose Heads the
Spaniards
wait for Gold, which washes down from
year
1704
the great high Mountains near them. The Island
Gorgonia,
is in the Latitude of 3 d. North. The Island is pretty high, and very remarkable for its two Saddles, or risings and fallings on its top. It is a very woody Island, producing tall and large Trees; and on it are several Springs of very good water. The anchoring-place is at the West-end of the Island in a sandy Bay, but the water is pretty deep. It is about 6 Miles in length, and 4 in breadth: And at both the East and West ends, is a small Island, which looks white, occasioned by the Dung of several sorts of Sea-Fowls, which resort about them. That at the East end, is called
Flaminio;
and the other at the West end, near the anchoring-place, is called the
Isletta.
The Coast near the Water-side, on the Main, is low Land, (although very high within the Country:) and here are some Rivers, that are shole for two leagues into the Sea. Therefore keep off Shore; For if it be flowing water, the Currents will heave you ashore.
From the Island
Gorgonia
to the Island
Gallo,
is twenty-five Leagues. This Island lies in a deep
Ensenada,
or Bay. Off the Island you will find not above four or five Fathom water; but at
Segnetta,
which is on the N. E. side, you may ride safe in deep Water, and free from any danger.
year
1704
This Island is pretty high, and well provided with good Wood, and several Springs of very good fresh water. Here are also several brave sandy Bays, at which one may clean a Ship; as we did ours. The water is pretty shole almost all round the Island; and at both the North and South Point are several Rocks, some of which look like a Barn, others like Ships under sail. It lies in the Latitude of 2 d. 45 m. N. and Longitude West from
London
76 d. 38 m. and we found variation 4 d. VVesterly.
To the North East, on the main Land, distant three leagues, is a large River, called the River of
Tomaco;
and about a league and a half within the River, is a Town of the same Name. This is a small
Indian
Town, the Inhabitants of which commonly supply small Vessels with Provisions, when they happen to come in here, as they often do, for refreshment. At this River begins a great Wood of Trees, which extends ten or twelve Leagues to the Southward. If you stand in need, this VVood may be very useful to you in making Masts or otherways. All along this Coast are many Rivers, at whose Heads both the
Spaniards
and
Indians
wait for Gold, which washes down from the Mountains. This is a very rainy place, but especially from
April
to
October,
which is the VVinter-time here:
year
1704
At which time, from hence all Northward along the Coast of
Mexico,
you have continual Thunder, Lightning and Rain, with many hard Tornadoes. Your Land-marks here are, that the Land is higher than the Coast of
Gorgonia,
and is very full of Hills and Trees; And particularly it has One very high Mount.
From the Island
Gallo
to Point
Manglares,
is twelve Leagues. The Coast runs N. N. E. and S. S. W. And between them is a little Island, or rather Rock, called
Gorgonilla.
From the Point of
Manglares
are several Rocks and Shoals, which stretch out two Leagues into the Sea: Otherwise all the Coast is clear and deep, and good Anchor-ground. Whilst we were here, we found a strong Current setting to the North, but whether it be always so, I know not. From this Point begins a deep Bay called the
Ancon
of
Sardinas.
It is about ten Leagues over; and in the Bay are a great many Sands; and it is shoal a great way off; so that it is ill venturing in with your Ship. Close by the Sea-side it is all low Land, full of small Rivers, whose Banks are very wellpeopled with
Indians.
The Water of these Rivers is very white, and both smells and tastes very strong of Musk, occasioned by the many
Alligators
which are in them. At the South end of this Bay begins
year
1704
the high Land; and the Coast stretches away to the W. S. W. till you come to the Cape of St.
Francisco.
From the
Ancon
of
Sardinas
to the River of St
Jago,
is six Leagues. All along the shore is full of white Clifts; and near the Land the Water is shole. This River of St
Jago,
is a very great River; yet Ships enter but very seldom, though the
Spaniards
have a small Village 3 Leagues up, and the Banks of it are all along well inhabited by
Indians,
who have several Plantations of Maiz, with Walks of Fruits, and Pens for Cattle, to wit, Beeves and Hogs; of which here is good store. At the Mouth of the River they say is four fathom Water: If you would enter, keep nearest to the South East side; and when you are over the Bar, there is very deep Water; It is a Mile broad, and the highest Land on all the Coast, except St
Matheo,
which is seven Leages from it. This River lies in the Latit. of 1 d. 15 m. North; Longitude from
London
West 76 d. 20 m.
From this River to the Bay of St
Matheo,
is seven Leagues. This Bay is very high Land, and has a great many shoals running from it two Leagues into the Sea; and for three or four Leagues the Water is shole, not above four, five, or six fathom. Both to the Northward and Southward
year
1704
by the Sea-side, the Land is all white Cliffs. The Bay lies just in the middle of them. In the bottom of the Bay are two Rivers of fresh, but Alligator-water, that is to say, white musky Water. On each side of the Mouth of these Rivers, are shoals of Sand; and near the Rivers Mouths are very pleasant Rows of fine green Trees; which is the mark to know the Rivers by: For the Mouths of them are so narrow, that at a distance you cannot perceive them.
From this Bay of St
Matheo
to the Bay of
Tacames,
is seven Leagues. This
Tacames
is lower Land than the Bay of St
Matheo;
and at its entrance, between two Sholes, is a small Island. You may anchor in any part of the Port, to windward; and the nearer shore, the better anchorage and the deeper Water. Here you may wood and water. In this Port were taken by
Don Beltram
a
Spaniard,
a few stragling
English
Men: He came hither unawares, and took them as they were wooding and watering a small Vessel. Off the two Points of this Bay, run two dangerous sholes right off from the shore, for near a League and half; but between them both is pretty deep Water; and the Southermost of the said two sholes stretches away along shore for 3 Leagues, to the Point of
Gallera.
The Coast here
year
1704
runs E. N. E. and W. S. W. to Cape St
Francisco.
The Point of
Gallera
is a low Point; and off it lie many Rocks and Sholes. You may know the Point by this, that there are two white Cliffs upon it, near the Water-side.
From Point
Gallera
to Cape St
Francisco,
is two Leagues. It is a high Cape, but far higher within Land than near the Water-side. VVhen you are North or South from it, it looks like three Capes. It is a woody mountainous Land, and has several white Cliffs. This Cape is famous for the rich Prize, named the
Cacafogo,
taken just off it by Sir
Francis Drake:
in which was said to be eighty Pound-weight of refined Gold, twenty-six Tuns of Silver, with a considerable quantity of Jewels. VVe took off this Cape two
Spanish
Ships; one of 120 Tuns, laden with VVine, Brandy, Sugar, Marmalett, Flower,
&c.
the other about sixty Tuns, laden with Pitch, Tar and Cordage. This Cape St
Francisco,
lies in the Latitude of 1 d. North, and Longitude from
London
West, 81 d. 50 m. and we found here 3 d. 57 m. westerly variation.
Note,
That from this Cape of
St Francisco,
to the South-part of the Great Island of
California
in the Latitude of 23 d. 30 m. from
April
to
November,
is the dirty
year
1704
fainy Season, with hard storms of Wind, and prodigious Flashes of Lightning, and terrible Claps of Thunder; which are at the worst in
June, July
and
August.
Also between the aforesaid places, all the Coast is full of Worms; and therefore very inconvenient for a single Ship, as we were. But to the Southward of this Cape, the
Spaniards
constantly affirm there are no Worms: For those Ships which trade only on the Coast of
Peru
and
Chili,
and never go to Northward of this Cape, are never Worm-eaten. This Cape is, as I may say, the bounds of the rainy and bad Weather; it seldom reaching to the Southward of it, unless by chance, perhaps not one Year in twenty. I have once heard that the Rains came up as high as
Paita,
which lies in the Latitude of 5 d. 15 m. S. and is 6 d. 15 m. to the Southward of this Cape of St
Francisco:
But this was but by chance; and I never heard from the
Spaniards,
that ever it went so high up, excepting that one time, in any of their Memories.
This Cape of St
Francisco
hath, at the pitch of it, a small Rock. The Coast here, runs away more to the South Eastward. About three Leagues distance from the Cape is a small Port, called
Apottete;
near which, is a round Hill, behind which is good Wood and Water; and near it, is
year
1704
very smooth landing. It hath two white Clifts; and at the Head of it, is good Anchor-ground. Sometimes, though seldom, here springs a fresh Gale of Wind from the shore, which may drive you from your Anchors if you be not careful.
From
Appottete
to the first River of
Cogimes,
is three Leagues. There are three Rivers of this Name, and they lie close one by the other. They are all full of sholes in most places, stretching a League and more from the shore into the Sea: Wherefore if you be two Leagues from the shore, you will do well to keep sounding. But to windward of the said three Rivers, you may come nearer the Land: Yet it is all along not very deep to
Coaque.
A little to the Southward of the Southermost of these three Rivers, is a small and barren Island, right against which are the Mountains of
Coaque:
These are very high Mountains, covered with large and tall Trees; at the foot of which is a small Village of
Spaniards
and
Indians,
called by the Name of St
John's
Village; and near the Village is the River of
Coaque,
which runs a great way up into the Country.
From the River of
Coaque
to Cape
Passao,
is twelve Leagues. Between which two places is the River of
Sama,
and the
year
1704
Bay of
Baciabo.
The River of
Sama
has a Rock and Shoal of Sand just at its entrance; and when you are about a Mile further, it divides into two Branches; the one running to the N. E. and the other to the S. E. but how far either of them runs up, I know not. The Bay of
Baciabo
(which is about a Mile to the Southward of the River of
Sama,
) is a pretty deep Bay: At the bottom of it are a great many white Clifts, which are supposed to lie directly under the Equator. The Bay is rocky all round; and at each of its Points are some very dangerous Sands, which stretch four or five Miles off to the Sea. From hence to the Cape
Passao,
is about five Leagues: In all which way are many small Points and Bays; most of which are very well clothed with several sorts of Trees, tall and streight, and of various Shapes and Colours. And the Land is of an indifferent height. This Cape
Passao
is a high round Cape, with but few Trees on it. It lies in the Latit. of 00d. 08 m. South, Longitude from
London
West 82 d. 40 m. and we found variation here 3 d. 33 m. Westerly. At the Pitch of the Cape are two Rocks, both of them visible above Water; and within the Cape the Land is pretty high and mountainous, and very woody. If you want to anchor near the Cape, you must
year
1704
go to the S. W. over against a small Town, where you may ride securely from the South Winds, in eight fathom Water. Observe that you come not too near the Cape; for it has some rocky Ground that lies near it. The Cape, as I said before, is full of round Hills; and in the Northpart of it, is a sort of Water, which we call half-wholesome, because it is brackish and tastes as if fresh Water and Salt were mixed together. This Water issues from a Rock, which lies a Stones-cast from the VVater-side, to the left Hand of the landing place.
A little to the Southward of the said Cape, is a small River; from which to the Bay of
Caracas,
is three Leagues. This is a pretty deep Bay, and at the bottom of the Bay is a River, called the River of
Charapoto,
which is said to run a great way up in the Country. In the middle of the Bay, is the common anchoring place; and on the South-side, right-against the said anchoring place, is a small Village called the Village of
Charapoto.
In it are not above eight or nine Houses, mostly built of Palmeto-leaves, and inhabited by
Indian
Fishermen, who have little or no other Food but Fish. These People are very poor, and the
Spaniards
have little or no converse with them for that reason. In the middle, at the entrance
year
1704
of the Bay, is a small Island of an indifferent height, very well clothed with Trees; and from the North-point of this Island to the North point of the Bay, runneth a shole clear over, so that there is no going over with a Ship: But on the Southside of the Island, between it and the Main, you may safely venture; for there is no danger. The Coast here runs N. E. and S. VV.
From the Bay of
Caracas
to the Port of
Manta,
is seven Leagues; and they bear from each other N. E. and S. VV. Between them are several Points, stretching out into the Sea; and between these Points are several sandy Bays. The Land is of an indifferent height, and very full of Trees. Right off the Port of
Manta,
almost in the middle, just at the entrance, is a Rock or small Island, which but just appears above VVater. This Port of
Manta
is a small Port; but in it you are defended from the South VVest and other Southerly VVinds, which are the common VVinds upon this Coast. For from Cape
Passao
in the Latitude of 00d. 08 m. South, to and beyond Cape
Blanco
in the Latitude of 3 d. 45 m. South, there is seldom or never any Land-wind. VVhich is very observable; because it is so contrary to all the rest of the Coast. For upon all the rest of the Coast, you have common
year
1704
Land and Sea-winds, each as duly succeeding the other, as the Night the Day; the Land-winds being commonly right off the shore, and the Sea-winds from the South, blowing within a Point or two along the shore. In the Port of
Manta
is a small
Indian
Village, said to be formerly a Habitation of the
Spaniards;
in which they built a Church, that is still standing. The best anchoring is over-against it; where you may anchor in seven or eight fathom Water, good fast Ground. The Land hereabouts is very barren, producing only a few shrubby Trees, and some small Bushes. The
Spaniards,
who had formerly possession of this place, live now seven Leagues within Land; where they have built them a large Town, called by the same Name. The other Land-marks of this place are, that on the North-part the Land is of an indifferent height, and
Monte Christo
looks like a Sugar-loaf; from whence you will see the Land run plain to the top of the Cape of St
Lorenzo,
and is of an indifferent height: Also a little to the Westward of the said Port, is a shole of Quick-sand, which lies under Water, and the Sea never breaks upon it. Many a good Ship has been cast away upon it.
Two leagues to the Southward of this Port, is a little Rock, pretty high above
year
1704
the Water; from which Rock to the Cape of St
Lorenzo,
is three leagues. Half a league before you come to the Cape, is a good anchoring place; where, if you want fresh water, you may supply your self. All the Coast is deep and clear; and you may ride in any part of the Cape of
Saint Lorenzo.
The Cape is highest near the water side. On it are only a few Trees and Bushes. Right against it are two Rocks, which look like two Friars, and are so called. The one is high and slender, and the other looks very bluff. When you are off at Sea, the Cape, bearing North, and distant about four or five leagues, shows plain above; and you may see the top of a Steeple of a Church or Chapel. This Cape I make to lie in the Latitude of 01 d. South. Longitude from
London
West 82 d. 15 m. and we found variation 3 d. 09 m. Westerly. A little Southward of the Cape, lies a shole of Sand, which stretches out to Sea from the Main about a league, and is in breadth about half a league.
From Cape St
Lorenzo
to the Island
Plata,
is five leagues; and they bear from each other E. N. E. and W. S. VV. This Island is so called from the great quantity of Plate which was shared here by Sir
Francis Drake
and his Company. It lies in the Latitude of 01 d. 10 m. South. It is in length about a league, and in breadth
year
1704
about half a league. It is of an indifferent height, but highest at the East end. There are upon it some few small Trees, but not fit for any use. There are several Rocks and Sholes at both Points of the Island, which stretch out into the Sea near a mile; and the Sea often breaks upon them: And at the South East end are three small and steep Rocks. It is deep water all round, except at the two aforesaid Points; and the anchoring place is on the East side, in a sandy Bay, where is good anchor ground and smooth water; For in it you are defended from the Southerly VVinds, which are common VVinds off this Coast. VVhether there be any water upon the Island, I know not; but at some certain times of the Year, here are said to be plenty of Sea-Turtle.
From the Island
Plata
to the Island
Salongo,
is six leagues. This Island is higher Land than the Island
Plata.
It hath two small Rocks, which are pretty high; the one at the South, the other at the North end of it. At this Island is a pretry good place to ride in, on the East side, next to the Main Land; and there is a parcel of white broken Ground a little to the Southward of the anchoring place.
Right against this Island, on the main Land, is the Bay of
Picoya;
at the North side of which is a small anchoring-place;
year
1704
and on both sides of the Bay are sholes of Sand; but in the middle the water is deep enough: Therefore it is best keeping an equal distance between both Shores; and with that precaution, One may venture in with safety. In going in, you will pass by three small Rocks. Come not too near them, for they are shole half a mile round. At the bottom of the Bay is the River
Picoya,
about three leagues up which, live
Indian
People, who supply the
Spaniards
with many Necessaries.
To the South-Eastward of this River and Bay of
Picoya,
distant about two leagues, are two small Rocks, called
Ahoreados
or the Hang'd-men. Because
Machiaco
the Tyrant, an
Indian
King, in a Battle he had with the
Spaniards,
took two of them Prisoners, which he caused to be hanged, one upon each of these Rocks.
From these 2 Rocks, a little to the Southward, is the River of
Colanche.
It is a fresh-water River; and in it is said to be four or five fathom water, good Anchorground. The Inhabitants, who are
Indians,
carry water to the Town of
St Hellena,
wherewith they supply that Town. Right against the River, but a good distance from it, is the Island
Colanche.
This Island is said to be extraordinarily healthy; and on it are some few
Indian
Inhabitants,
year
1704
who spend most of their time in fishing; here being pretty good store of Fish, with which they partly supply the Town of
St Hellena
just by. All round the Island is ten fathom water, close to the shore; so that you may go from one part to another, very securely.
From the River
Colanche
to the Town of
St Hellena,
is four leagues. This is a small Town, consisting of
Spaniards
and
Indians:
They have commonly in it some store of Provisions, as Biscuit, Pease, Flower, Corn, dryed Fish, salted Beef, Pork, and other Necessaries, with which they supply such Ships as arrive here. The best anchoring is in about seven or eight fathom water, a little to the South West of the Town. The Land is here very low and barren, having no Trees; and so stretches away to the Point of St
Hellena.
This Point is high Land, and very even at the top. It lies in the Latitude of about 2 d. 20 m. South. At a distance it appears like an Island, because the Land about it is low; and it bulges out into the Sea, directly to the West. Over-against the Point, on the North-side, there is a Bay, and if you fall in there in the Night, keep your Lead going, and mind your Depth, till you can either get out, or with conveniency come to an anchor.
year
1704
The Point St
Hellena
makes the North point of the Bay of
Guiaquill,
as Cape
Blanco
does the South. It is a great Bay, in which are some Islands, many Rivers, and abundance of Sholes.
From Point
St Hellena
to the Point of
Chandy,
is about five leagues. Off this Point lye several dangerous Sholes; therefore great care must be taken of coming near it.
From the Point of
Chandy
to the Island St
Clara,
is seven Leagues, North and South. Between which two places are a great many dangerous Sholes; and there is no going between the Island St
Clara
and the Island of
Puna.
For all along on the East-side of the Island St
Clara,
and on the West side of the Island
Puna,
are a great many Sholes, which stretch from one Island to the other. The Island St
Clara,
which is the first Island at going into this Bay, is an indifferent high Island, pretty well clothed with small Trees. It resembles a Corps in a Shroud; the East end representing the Head, and the West the Feet.
Between this Island and Cape
Blanco,
which is about twenty four or twenty five Leagues distant, is the Channel for Ships; who keep to the Southward of the Island, and a good distance from the Point of
Puna,
and steer away East, till they have
year
1704
past the Island
Puna.
They have in the Channel, going in, from thirty to twenty fathom Water; and when they are come up with the S. E. Point of the Island
Puna,
then the River turns away to the North, and grows narrower and narrower, to the Town of
Guiaquill;
and the Land all along by the sides of it, is low swampy Land, over grown with small Mangrove-Trees.
The Town of
Guiaquil
is a large Town, said to contain near five thousand Inhabitants. In it are several fine Churches and other good Buildings. It is situated on the lower part of a declining Hill, so that the Houses near the Water side are often overflown. It is pretty well fortified, having two Forts, one standing upon the Hill, and the other in a Vally near the South end of the Town. It is the third greatest place of Trade on the Coast of
Peru.
From the Town of
Guiaquil
to the Island
Puna,
is seven Leagues. This is a low Island, in many places overflown. It is about thirteen Leagues long, and five broad. At the Point of
Arena
is the common anchoring place for Ships, till they get a Pilot to carry them close up to the Town of
Guiaquil.
This Point
Arena
is a very low Point, from whence to Cape
Blanco
is twenty eight Leagues. All along
year
1704
upon the main Land, it is very full of Sholes, which stretch from the Main into the Sea above two Leagues; and the great Rivers that run out from the Land, augment them. Here is all along a great row or Wood of Trees, and amongst the Trees is the River of
Tumbes;
upon the Banks of which are fed store of Cattle. It is a passage for Travellers, there being a great Road from it, to several In-land Towns and Villages.
From the River
Tumbes
to
Mancora,
is fourteen leagues, a clear Coast; and from thence to Cape
Blanco,
four leagues. This Cape is high Land; and from it blow such boisterous Winds, that it is a common Proverb with the
Spaniards, that the Stoutest Man of War must strike to Cape Blanco.
Yet here is never any great Sea. This Cape I make to lye in the Latitude of 3 d. 45 m.
S.
Longitude from
London
West, 81 d. 50 m; and we found Variation 2 d. 52 m. Westerly.
From Cape
Blanco
to Point
Parina,
is seven Leagues. In the Mid-way is a small Bay and Port, called
Malaca.
It is very seldom made use of; and at its South Point is a great Shole, which runs out to the N. W. into the Sea above a Mile: Therefore in going in, it is best to keep nearest the North shore, to avoid this Shole. Between this Shole and the Point of
Parina,
year
1704
are several little Bays, but of no use. And excepting the Shole near the Point of
Malaca,
all is deep and clear; so that you may ride where you please; only you must mind that your Ground-tackling be good, because of the hard Gusts of Wind which often blow here. The Point of
Parina
is low Land towards the Sea side, and at a distance it appears like two Islands, one of which looks round, and the other cragged, as if it was cut in Pieces; and to Leeward of the Point, is a fine little Bay.
Upon the Coast of
Chili
and
Peru,
from the Island
La Moucha
in the Latitude of 38 d. 30 m.
S.
to the Point of
Garachina
in the Latitude of 7 d. 20. N. the Wind is always Southerly, two Points upon the shore. Thus when the Coast runs North and South, the Wind will be at S. S. W. When the Coast runs S. S. E. the Wind will be at South,
&c.
Except it be in the Night; and then the Sea-wind commonly ceases, and there comes a fine and moderate Gale from the Land.
From the Point of
Parina
to the Port of
Paita,
is seven leagues: Between which two places is the River of
Colan.
At the Mouth of this River are two Sands, one on each side, stretching about a Mile towards the Sea; and in the middle of these two Sholes is the Channel, which is pretty
year
1704
deep. Up this River are many
Indian
Towns and Villages. The Country hereabout is very mountainous and barren; but the Valleys are said to be very Fruitful, as they are all along to the Southward upon this Coast. The highest Mountains here, are the Mountains of
Motapa,
which are also barren, and have many Pieces of broken ground on them; but at the top in two or three places the Land is pretty even, and looks like Tables. In this Bay you have the Land and Sea-winds constant. The Sea-wind is commonly at South and S. by W. which begins about nine in the morning, and holds commonly till nine or ten at Night; then this Wind dyes away, and about half an hour, or an hour after, the Land-wind springs up, which is commonly at East right off the Land, and continues a fine fresh Gale till about eight in the morning; Then it falls calm, and soon after springs up the Sea-wind, as before. Up the River of
Colan,
is a Town of the same Name. The
Indians
of this Town come down commonly with the Landwind to
Paita
in Boats, and bring fresh water to supply the Town of
Paita
and the Shipping that be there: For they have no fresh water at
Paita.
They also bring them Wood and other Necessaries; And when the Sea-wind blows, the
Indians
year
1704
with their Boats return again to
Colan.
In
Paita
Bay is very good Anchor-Ground from twenty-five to six fathom Water. As you draw nearer the Town, the water grows shole gradually. It is a fine large Bay, capable to contain near a hundred Sail of Ships. It is all over sandy Ground; and in it you are defended from the South West, and other Southerly winds, by a Point of Land which runs out between the Bay and the Sea; so that Ships riding within this Point, lie always in as smooth water, and as safe as if they were in a Pond. It is in the Latitude of 5 d. 15 m. South: And we found variation here 2 d. 37 m. Westerly. Within this Point is the Town of
Paita;
which is a pretty little Town, consisting of about eighty Houses, most of them
Spaniards.
Although it is a place of no great Trade, yet it is seldom without shipping, because it lies so very convenient for all Ships going up or down; And it is very seldom that any Ship passes by, without putting in here for Refreshments, of which this Town is well supplied by those of
Colan.
From
Paita
upwards, the Coast runs W. S. W. two leagues, to
Pena Oradada,
or Golden Rock; from whence to the Northermost Island of
Lobos,
called
Lobos de Terra,
is two leagues more; and they bear from each other North East and South
year
1704
West. This Island
Lobos,
has a Shole and a great hollow Rock at the North end of it, which stretches out near half a Mile into the Sea. The Anchoring-place is at the North East end in four and five fathom water. The Island is of an indifferent height, and is so like to
Lobos de la Mar,
that though the
Spaniards
are very well acquainted here, yet they often mistake the one for the other. It is a very rocky Island, not producing any thing; and on it is no fresh water. Of Sea-Fowl, here are Boobies, Noddies, Penguins,
&c.
And of Fishes, here are Sea-Lions and Seals in abundance.
From this Island to the Point of
Paita,
is fifteen leagues North and South. And between this Island and the foresaid Point, is the Bay of
Sechura,
a league from
Lobos de Terra.
Upon the main Land is the
Chair of Paita:
It is high Land towards the Sea-side; so that there is none like it between it and Cape
Blanco.
The Coast here runs East North East, and South South West.
A little to the South East, is the Port of
Monura,
which is said to be almost as good a Port as that of
Paita.
There is very good fresh water to be had, with abundance of several sorts of very good fish. It is said to lie in the Latitude of
year
1704
6 d. South. The land hereabouts is all mountainous and barren.
From the Windward Point of this Port of
Monura
to the Island of
Lobos de la Mar,
is seven leagues. This Island lyes in the Latitude of 6 d. 20 m. South. Here is commonly a great Sea the whole Year through, and the currents set along shore to Leeward. Here
Paulo Andrea
and
James Querba,
two
Spanish
Captains, were cast away. It is dangerous coming near this Island, by reason of the many Currents which always run here. The Island is not above two leagues round. The Harbour is towards the N. E. part; whose passage is very narrow; but it is indifferent safe going in, to those that are any thing acquainted with it; and within the entrance is a good Port, to lye and refit or clean a Ship in: But here is no fresh Water; and it is so barren, that it does not produce any Trees or Bushes. Here are abundance of Seals and Sea-Lions, and several sort
of very good Fish.
From the Island
Lobos de la Mar,
to the Mount of
Etem,
is five leagues. It i
a high Hill, and appears round. From which place the Coast falleth away lo
by the Sea-side, to the Port of
Chiri
Yet up in the Country the Land is ver
high and mountainous. At this Po
Ships often lade with Flower.
year
1704
A little to the Southward is the Port of
Pacasmayo.
In this Port is a Rock, which is hollow, and which commonly has abundance of white Birds about it. Here is fresh Water, but the Spring is said to be three quarters of a Mile from the Sea; whence they carry Water to
Chiripi.
This Port of
Pacasmayo
is a brave Port. It lies in the Latitude of 7 d. 20 m. South; and the anchoring place is on the Weather-side of the Port, near the Mount of
Malabrigo.
Here are said to be abundance of Water-Rats, which often do great damage to Ships Cables.
Not far off, is the Port of
Malabrigo;
and near the Port is a Mountain called by the same Name. It is a high Mountain, and at the top of it is some broken Ground. Near it you may perceive the Breasts of
Chicama,
which stand above the Town of
Pisan:
These are the Marks for the Port of
Malabrgo.
There is also, to know the Port by, not above two leagues from the Main, a small Rock, called the Rock of
Malabrigio.
This Rock at a distance looks as if it was cut in two in the middle, and it lies in the Latitude of 8 d. South. The best place to anchor in, is to Leeward of the Mountain of
Malabrigo,
bringing it to bear due South; and there is no less than fifty fathom Water good fast Anchor-ground.
year
1704
The Rock of
Malabrigo
bears with the Port of
Guanchaco,
alias
Truxillo,
South East. And between these two places is the Bay of
Chicama:
At the bottom of which Bay is the River of
Chicama;
the Banks of which are well inhabited by
Indians.
Hereabouts is commonly a strong Current, setting into the Bay of
Chicama,
and to the Northward withall. On the North-side of the River of
Chicama,
is a small Village of
Spaniards,
called the Village
de Chao.
Hence a little to the Southward is the Port of
Guanchaco,
which is the Harbour for
Truxillo.
In this Port are two sholes of Sand pretty near the shore, but the anchoring place is without them. It is but a bad Port, and without defence, being exposed to all Winds. In it there runs so great a Sea upon the shore, that very often for three or four Days neither can any Boats go ashore nor come from the shore; yet this is a place of great Trade. Near the Water-side is the Town of
Guanchaquo,
which is a small fishing Town; and about six Miles within Land, is the City of
Truxillo,
which is a large City, and mostly inhabited by
Spaniards.
It hath a great Trade for Flower, Brandy, Sugar, Wine and Marmalett; of which they export three or four Ship-loads every Year, with which
year
1704
they supply the City of
Panama. Guanchaquo
is the Port by which they export all these Goods. And it lies in the Latitude of 8 d. 15 m. South.
From hence not far to the S. E. is the Mountain of
Guanapi,
a high Mountain, and which the Sea falls very heavy upon. To Leeward of this Mountain about a Mile, is a little Island which runs out about a league; and near to that Island is a Rock, which is high and round, and when you are at a distance from it, it looks whitish. This Rock of
Guanapi
and the Island of
Saints,
are distant from each other nine leagues, bearing N. W. and S. E. Between them are two more Islands, one of which is called the Island of
Clao.
Four leagues before you come to this Island, it is somewhat dangerous; and by that time you begin to draw pretty near the sholes, you will see two little Rocks, one bigger than the other; which Rocks are right-against a small Bay, in which is a good Port, defended from the South-winds; but here is no fresh Water, but what is fetched from a Town three Miles off. From this Bay towards the S. E. is another Rock, near unto the Main-land: Off which Rock is a shole, about three Cables length from it; And more to the Southward is the Rock of
Santa,
distant about a league and a half. Near this Rock is a
year
1704
Port called
Santa;
and in entering into this Port, the
Spaniards
commonly look out for a spot of Land, which is very plain; and looks like a Path-way; When they see that Spot or Path-way, they run in boldly; and in the Road they have not above 4 or 5 fathom Water. At this place at a small Village a little within Land, called the Village of
Orsa,
and inhabited by
Spaniards,
is commonly store of Biscuit, Wood, VVater and other Necessaries to be had. In the Channel between the Island and the Main, any Ship may go, keeping nearer to the Island than the Main: And it is good to keep a pretty distance from the little Island, which lies near the Land; for there is foul rocky Ground. The Island of
Saints,
is a league in length: It is white Ground, and has three broken Places, one of which looks as if it were cut in two in the middle. On the South-part of it, is a little Island, at which there is good anchoring; and it lies in the Latitude of 9 d. South.
From this Island to the Port of
Cosma,
is ten leagues. The Coast runs N. N. VV. and S. S. E. At the South point of this Port is a little Rock, and a small shole of Sand all round it; and within on the same side, is a River of fresh Water; at the Mouth of which, is the common anchoring place; and at the North point
year
1704
coming in, is a small low Island, but higher at both ends than in the middle. This
Cosma
is a very good Port, and in it you are defended from most Winds. It lies in the Latitude of 9 d. 50 m. South, and Longitude from
London
West 78 d. 35 m. In the Mouth or Entry of this Port there is no danger; for all is clear and good Ground. On the South-part of the Port, is a great Mountain, called the Mountain of
Mongon.
A little to the Southward of the South Point of the Port, and about a league from the Mountain of
Mongon,
is a small low and even Island, called the
Isletta;
within which, close in under the Main, are two small Rocks.
From the Port of
Cosma
to
Mongon,
is three leagues; and from
Mongon
to
Mongonilla,
four leagues. This is a small Port, and seldom made use of; yet in it you are defended from the Southerly Winds. From
Mongonilla
to the
Caleta's,
is two leagues. These are two small deep Bays; in both of which is good anchoring. About a league to the Southward of the Southermost of these, is the Port of
Vermejo:
Right before the Mouth of which, is a small and indifferent high Island, called the
Isletta.
This Island has a Bay on the East side, called the Bay of
Callibria;
and between the Island and the Port, are some bad sholes. This Port of
Vermejo,
year
1704
is a very good Port, but not inhabited. There is no fresh Water nearer the Sea side than a Mile.
The Mountain of
Mongon,
which lyes about seven Leagues to the Northward of this Port, is the highest Mountain that is known on all this Coast. It may be seen at a great distance off at Sea; and many times Ships stay a Month or more by it, by reason of the Currents that set to the Northward along the Coast. The best way is to keep off at Sea as much as you can, until you come into the Latitude of
Callau.
From the Port of
Vermejo
to
Guarmey,
is three leagues.
Guarmey
hath a plain spot of Sand; and the Land within is double, and hath some spots of Sand on the top of it; and within the Port is a round white Rock, where there is good riding on the Weather side in eight fathom Water, good clear fast Ground. In this Port is a River of fresh Water, which runs into the Sea near a parcel of Rocks, where the Ships commonly unlade. It is furnished with Wood, Water and other Necessaries. It lyes in the Latitude of 10 d. 30 m. South: And here the Coast runs away S. S. W. to the Island of
Don Martin.
From the Port of
Guarmey
to
Jaquey of Sarra,
is four leagues. This Peice of the Coast, runs away South: Between these
year
1704
two places is a high Mountain, and over againg it a small Port. From
Jaquey of Sarra
to
Monjala,
is six leagues. This is a little Mountain, which is nothing but a barren Rock; and at a distance to those off at Sea, it appears white, and looks like a Ship under Sail. From
Jaquey of Sarra
to the River
Barancis,
is nine leagues. This is a fresh Water River, and runs a great way up in the Country; the banks of it are very well inhabited with
Indians;
and hereabouts are a great many fields planted with Wheat. From the River
Barancis
to the Port of
Supe,
is two leagues. This is a small Port, and seldom made use of for want of Trade, although in it you are defended from the Southerly Winds. The Land hereabouts is high and mountainous, and the Mountains most of them very barren; but the Valleys are said to be very fruitful. From this small Port of
Supe
to the Island of
Don Martin,
is three Leagues. This is a whitish Island, plain and even, and lyes about three quarters of a Mile off the shore.
From hence to the Port of
Guara,
is one league. This Port lies in the Latitude of 11 d. 02 m. South: And we reckon Longitude from
London
West, 77 d. 10 m. On the windward part of this Port, is a Mountain; on the top of which are some Pyramids. A little to the Northward of
year
1704
this Port, is a small Port, called the Port of
Salinas.
It is the best Port of the two; but they are both something dangerous. At this place is abundance of Beef readysalted; of which they send great store both to
Lima
and
Panama.
From the Port of
Guara
to
Tambo,
is four leagues. The Coasts runs N. N. W. and S. S. E. and in the mid-way is a small anchoring-place, called the Port of
Chancay.
It is all clear and good Ground; and this Port of
Chancay
is a very good Port, from whence is transported to
Lima
Wheat and store of other Provisions. In it you ride secure from the South winds. From this Port to the Rocks
Piscadores,
is two leagues. There are several of these Rocks, but the middlemost is the biggest. About these Rocks are abundance of several sorts of very good Fish; and upon these small Islands, or rather Rocks, are several
Indian
Huts, inhabited by
Indians,
who are Fishermen; for which reason these Rocks are called the
Piscadores.
Within these Rocks is a fine Port, called the Port of
Anton. de Rodas;
in which is secure riding from most Winds. The Land is pretty high, and the Hills mostly barren.
The Rocks
Piscadores,
lie due North and South with
Callau,
and East North East from the Islands of
Ormigas,
which lie
year
1704
eight leagues from
Callau
right off the shore. The Islands of
Ormigas
are small: On them are several pieces of broken Ground, with several small Bays. About them are abundance of several sorts of very good Fish. The Fishermen come from
Lima
to this place a fishing; and here the
Indians
make abundance of Sea-fish Oyl.
The Island
Callau
is very high and barren, having neither wood nor fresh water, nor so much as any green thing upon it. It is two leagues long. Upon this Island is the great City of
Lima;
which is the City-Royal for the Empire of
Peru.
It is the Seat of a Vice-Roy and an Archbishop. It is a large City, said to contain 17000
Spaniards,
besides a far greater number of
Mullattoes, Mostese,
and
Indians.
In it are said to be twenty-five Parish Churches, all well built, and very rich in Gold and Silver and precious Stones; The Images of many of their Saints being of massy Gold. It is well fortified, having a Castle of seventy Brass Guns, forty-eight Pounders; close under which is the common place of anchoring; and they commonly ride in six fathom water, good fast Ground. The Island is joined to the main Land by a Bridge of Stone; and almost one half of the City is on the other side upon the main Land. It is a place of the greatest Trade of any on the West side of
America;
and
year
1704
the Harbour is never without Shipping. In all this Coast towards the South-seas, it is observable that it seldom rains; yet with the Evening and Morning Dews, the Valleys are said to be as fruitful as any in the whole World: But the Hills are as barren; for few of them produce any thing; nay many not so much as Grass. At this place groweth a famous Occidental Bezoar, which is found in the Maw of the
Peruvian
Sheep; which Sheep they make use of to carry Burthens. For it is said one of these Sheep will carry 500 pound weight with ease; and that, like a Camel, they will go two or three days without eating or drinking. A little to the Southward of the anchoring-place, and off the Point of
Callau,
is a shole of Sand, which runs a great way into the Sea; and right off the shole is a rocky Island, called the Island of
Lima.
This Island has several small Rocks about it; but the biggest of them lies at the South end: This Rock is called
Pena Oradada,
or the Golden Rock; because a Galeon was lost near it, in which was said to be a very great quantity of Gold. This
Pena Oradada
is very high, and no Ship can pass between these Rocks, or between the Rocks and the Island of
Lima:
But Ships that come from the Southward, steer in between
Pena Oradada
and the Point of
year
1704
Callau,
till they come to the Island of
Lima;
to avoid the great shole which runs off the Point of
Callau.
And when they have past the Point of
Callau,
they steer directly to the Anchoring-place, and in their way there is no danger. In all this Bay or Port of
Callau,
is secure riding; it being clear and good fast Ground, growing shallow gradually from twelve to four fathom water; and in it you are defended from the Southerly wind, which is the common Trade-wind off this Coast. About this Island and among the Rocks, are store of very good Fish; and upon most of them are some Huts, in which are
Indians
who make it their constant employ to fish; which Fish they carry to
Lima
to sell, and then return to catch more. This Port lies in the Latitude of 12 d. 20 m. South.
Four leagues to the Southward of these Rocks, is
Pachacama;
near to which are two round Rocks, one bigger than the other; and near Them is another parcel of little Rocks, about eight or ten in number. Here the Land is very high and mountainous, having two or three rows of Hills one within another.
From these Rocks to the Port of
Chilca,
is three leagues. It is a very good Port, and good anchoring. The entry is on the North East side. In this Port is a Rock, called the
Tortois;
and when you are once within
year
1704
that, all is clear, and there is six or seven fathom Water. In this Port they load great Ships with Salt for
Guiaquil.
The Town stands two leagues from the Port, and is inhabited partly by
Spaniards
and partly by
Indians.
It is but a small Town, consisting not of above twenty or twentyfive Houses, mostly ill built.
From this Port to the Island
Asia,
is two leagues. It is an indifferent high Island, about half a league long, and hath a defense for little Ships: Near it lie two Rocks.
From this Island to the Port of
Canete
of
Guarco,
is three leagues. Here the
Spaniards
lade Wheat for
Lima
and several other places. The marks of the Port are, that there is a high Mountain, called the Mountain of
Guarco,
which appears as if it was split in two, and the Sea falls with a great force upon it. It hath a Fort on the top of it, which appears white when you are off at Sea.
From
Canete
or
Guarco
to
Chinca,
is nine leagues. The Coast runs N. N. W. and S S. E. It is a bad Port, and in it is commonly a great Sea. Here is laden Whea
and
Indian
Corn, to be transported to
Lima;
and near it lie three Islands, which are distant from the Custom-house of
Chinca
three leagues, and bear with it N. E and S. W.
year
1704
From
Chinca
to
Pisco,
is three leagues.
Pisco
is a Bay, in which is a Port; and at the bottom of the Port, is a River of fresh water. All the Coast is clear and good; and there is good riding in six fathom water. At this place they lade Wine in great quantity, with which they supply most places hereabouts. The Land is very high and mountainous. The Hills are barren; but the Valleys are full of pleasant Vineyards; with the Grapes of which they make extraordinary good Wine; this being one of the chief places for Wine on all the Coast.
From
Pisco
to
Paraca,
is three leagues. It is a good Port, and lyes in the Latitude of 13 d. 30 m.
S.
Hereabouts the Valleys are planted with abundance of Wheat; and they also make store of Wine.
From
Paraca
to the Mount of St
Gallan,
is two leagues. It is a high Mount, and barren, having not any green thing upon it. Over-against the Mount is a high Island called the Island of
Lobos,
which is a league distant from the Main. About this Island are many Rocks; and near the Mount, is a shole. The Mount lyes in the Latitude of 14 d. South.
The Land here, is of a prodigious height; lying in Ridges parallel to the shore, three or four Ridges one within the other, and each surpassing the other
year
1704
in height. Those that are furthest within Land are the highest, and they always appear Blue to those that pass by them at Sea.
The Weather upon this Coast of
Peru,
from the Latitude of 30 d. South to Cape
Blanco
in the Latitude of 3 d. 45 m. South, is always fair; here never being any storms of Wind or Rain; although many times it is so hazey, that there is no taking an observation with the Quadrant. Also upon all this Coast are but very few Rivers; they being in some places a hundred and sixty or a hundred and seventy leagues asunder; whereas on the Coast of
Mexico
are abundance of Rivers, many within half a league or a league of each other. Also the Rivers of the Coast of
Mexico
are always full, and many times overflow their Banks; but these on this Coast of
Peru,
are little and shallow, and at some certain times of the Year quite dry.
In the Island
Lobos,
is a good Harbour, which has two Mouths; but they commonly enter by that which lies to the S. E. and come out at that which lyes to the N. W.
From this Island to the Mountain of
Asia,
is twelve leagues. The Coast runs N. N. W. and S. S. E. and it is pretty Windy hereabouts. Near this Mount of
Asia
on the East side, is an anchoring place,
year
1704
in a small Port, called the Port of
Cavales.
This Port is somewhat dangerous, by reason of several sholes near it. It lies in the Latitude of 15 d. 00 m. South. One League to the S. E. of this Port, is a very good Port, called the Port of St
Nicolas.
From whence to the Port of St
John,
is three Leagues. Its Entry is at a Bay, and you may go through any part of it. This Port is very windy, and is said to have no fresh Water. At it they make a small quantity of Wines, which they send by shipping to
Lima
and
Panama.
From the Port of St
John
to
Acary,
is nine Leagues. The Coast runs S. S. E. and N. N. W. It is a low Coast by the Water-side, (although the Land is very high and mountainous in the Country,) and here is good Anchor-ground; but Ships seldom anchor in it, because of the high Winds and great Sea which is commonly here.
From
Acary
to
Attiquipa,
is 8 leagues. It is high Land towards the Sea-side; and here begin the high mountainous Hills and Deserts of
Atico.
At this Port Ships of the largest size lade with Corn, and other Necessaries. It lies in the Latitude of 16 d. South. It blows not so much here, as near the Mount of
Asia.
From this Port to the Mount of
Atico,
is fourteen Leagues. The Coast runs S. E. and N. W. It is a bold shore, and high Land
year
1704
by the Sea-side; but within it is much higher.
From
Atico
to
Ocana
is 8 leagues. At
Ocana
is a River of fresh Water, but at some certain times it is dry. Near the River, on the Main land, is some broken Ground; and on the Sea-Coast are some Rocks, which are called the
Piscadores.
About them are a great many sorts of very good Fish, and the Inhabitants of
Ocana
come hither often to fish.
From
Ocana
to
Camana,
is six Leagues. The Coast runs S. S. E. It is a good Coast; and here the
Spaniards
make abundance of very good Wine.
From
Camana
to the Port of
Chule,
is five Leagues. This is a good Harbour for Ships; but there lies a Rock a little to the S. E. of it, which you must not come in less than a League of; for there is a shole about half a League round it; But keeping a League from the said Rock, there is a good Entry.
From hence to the Port of
Quilca,
is eight Leagues. In the way is the Island
Guara;
which is a pretty high but barren Island. A little to the Southward of this Island, is a good Port, called the Port of
Ariquipa.
It is a good Port. In it are five great and small Rocks, of a whitish Colour. They lie in the Latitude of 17 d 20 m. South; and in going in, the Entry is very narrow; but within there is eighteen
year
1704
fathom Water; and the Port, when you are in, resembles the Coil of a Cable. Within is a great Vulcan, called the Vulcan of
Ariquipa,
which Vulcan is said to be sixteen Leagues within Land, and is the highest of all the Hills hereabouts. VVhether it burns now or no, I know not; but I suppose, by its Name, it has formerly. From this Port of
Ariquipa,
to the Port of
Ylo,
is twelve Leagues. The Coast runneth S. S. W. and N. N. E. And two Leagues from
Ariquipa,
is the River of
Tambo;
In which space is a League of low Land near the Sea-side; and there is good clear Ground, from six to twelve fathom Water.
From the River
Tambo
to
Yerba Buena,
is two Leagues; and from thence to the Port of
Ylo,
eight Leagues. This is a good Port to lade and unlade a Cargo in; and near to it, is a River of fresh Water, called the River of
Ylo.
This, as most of the other Rivers of
Peru,
runs with a quick Current from the beginning of
January
till the latter end of
June;
and then it decreases, running slower and slower, till the latter end of
September;
After which it wholly fails, and becomes dry; the VVaters not beginning to run again, till
January.
This most of the Rivers on the Coast of
Peru
are said to do as constantly, as the Year goes about. Near to this River
year
1704
is a Valley very well inhabited by
Indians,
in which they have store of Corn, and other Provisions, and several sorts of very good Fruits. The Point of
Ylo
is low Land, and runneth out into the Sea. It is dangerous coming near it; for off it lies an Island, and several Rocks. It is in the Latitude of 18 d. South. To those that are off at Sea, the Point looks like two or three Islands; and it bears with the Mount of
Sama,
S. W. and N. E. distance eight Leagues.
This Mount of
Sama,
is a high Mount; and under it are four pieces of broken Ground, of a whitish Colour. Near to it, is a small River called the River of
Sama.
From hence to the River of
John Dens,
is four Leagues. This River lies in the very bottom of the Bay of
Arica,
and the Banks of it are very well peopled with
Indians.
From the River of
John Deus
to the River of
Arica,
is two Leagues. On the Banks of this River is situated the Town of
Arica.
It is a large Town, inhabited by
Spaniards, Mullattoes, Mostese
and
Indians.
This Port of
Arica
lies in the Latitude of 18 d. 20 m. South; Longitude from
London
West 72 d. 20 m. and we found variation 1 d. 27 m. Easterly. It i
a very good Port, and is the Embarcad
year
1704
to most of the Mine-Tows of
Peru.
It is a place of very great Trade, and seldom or never without shipping. It is a good place to anchor in; and the best and common anchoring place, is close under the Mount of
Arica,
which is a great high Mountain, and defends Ships that ride there from the South-winds. The depth of the Water, is about eight fathom. VVithout the anchoring place, is a small Island, called the
Isletta.
The Land here is very high and mountainous; and from hence for near a hundred Leagues to the Southward, it is very much subject to Calms within thirty-five or forty Leagues of the shore. These Calms are not usual on any other part of this Coast, that I know of. VVhen the Sun is in the Northern Signs, that is, from
March
to
September,
the VVeather is commonly fair and clear; But when the Sun returns back into Southern Signs, then the VVeather for the most part is hazy, and the Horizon so thick, as often to hinder an Observation.
From the Mount of
Arica
to
Chacola,
is a League and half. Here is a very good anchoring place. And from hence to the broken Land of
Victor,
is a League and half more. From thence to
Camarones
is six Leagues; and from thence to
Tucames,
fourteen Leagues. The Coast
, from the
year
1704
Mount of
Arica
to this place, North and South.
From
Tucames
to the Island
Yaneque,
is twelve Leagues; from which place they carry Clay to lay in the Valleys of
Arica
and
Sama;
and here live some few
Indian
People, who are continually digging this clayey Ground for the use aforesaid; for the
Spaniards
reckon that it fattens the Land very much.
From hence to the Bay of
Majalones,
is twenty Leagues, all high mountainous Land, and a great Sea falling upon the Shore, so that there is scarce any landing. From
Majalones
to the Bay of
Salado,
is eight leagues. In neither of these Bays is there any fresh water.
From the Bay of
Salado
to the Mount of
Moreno,
is fourteen leagues. The Coast runs North and South. In this Port of the Mount of
Moreno,
is store of Salt; and here is very good fresh water to be had. It is a good Port, and in it you are defended from all Winds. Within the Port, the best riding is on the North-side. It is a very high Mount, and like to the Mount of
Capricorn,
which on the top has a great Rock.
From the Mount of
Moreno
to the Mount of St
George,
is twelve leagues. Except at this Mount of St
George,
there is no anchoring hereabouts.
CHAP. VII.
A Description of the Coast of
Chili.
The Port of
Copiapo.
The Port of
Guasco. Coquimbo. Tongoi. Lymary. Choape. Govanadore. Papuda. Clintera. Concon.
The River of
Chili. Valparizo.
Bay of
Rio. Salinas. Topa de Calma. Lora.
River of
Maule.
Point of
Unmos.
River
Itata.
Point of
Sinfonda.
The Island
Quinquina.
City of the
Conception.
Port of St
Vincent.
The River
Biobio.
Hills of
Guera.
Port
Labipi.
Island of
Santa Maria. Canero.
Hill of
Tucapell.
The River
Imperial.
The Island
La Moucha.
River of
Tolton. Valdivia
Port. The Occasion of its Name.
Chili
abounds most in Gold, as
Peru
does in Silver.
FRom hence the Land is all very high and barren to
Copiapo,
which lies in the Latitude of 21 d. South; and we found
year
1704
variation 2 d. 50 m. Easterly. It is a good Port, and defended from all Winds. Near into the Port are four or five Rocks. The water on shore is brackish. It is inhabited within Land by
Indians,
who make good Wine; and here is good Meat, Corn and other Necessaries. The marks of the Mount of
Copiapo,
are, that it looks like the Point of
Saint Hellena,
and that about a league to the Southward is an Island. In this Port they load Wine, Money and other Goods, for
Coquimbo.
From the Island which lies by the Mount of
Copiapo,
to the Bay of
Salado,
is five leagues; in which Bay is an anchoringplace, and a River of fresh water. From the Bay of
Salado
to
Totoral,
is ten leagues. The best riding here, is on the North side of the Point; which will be a defense from the South-winds. At this place is good wood and water to be had.
From
Totoral
to the Port of
Guasco,
is ten leagues; all the way high mountainous Land, but a clear Coast from Rocks or Sholes. Within the Port is a small round Island; and at the bottom of the Bay, near this Island, is a River of fresh water; right against the Mouth of which, is the common anchoring-place. The Country hereabouts is said to be pretty well inhabited by
Spaniards.
In this Port you are defended from the South and South West
year
1704
Winds. The Land is pretty plain and even; and at the top of the Port is a Plain of Sand. Off the South West Point of the Port, are seven or eight Rocks; about which are many Sholes, and there is no sailing between them and the Main.
From hence to the Port of
Coquimbo,
is ten leagues.
Coquimbo
is a good Port; and the common anchoring-place is right against a small round Island, on the South side of the Port, called the Island of
Tortuga:
Without this Island, near to the South West Point of the Port, are two Rocks; but any Ship may go between them and the Main; for there is very deep water. To the Northward of these Rocks, are the Islands of
Paxores,
which are eight or nine in number. There is deep water between them; and amongst them are caught several sorts of very good Fish, with which they supply the City of
Coquimbo.
Some of these Islands are very high and rocky; but the Land upon the Main, is not altogether so high as it was from
Copiapo
to this place. A little on the North East side of this Port, is a noted great Hill, in fashion of a Sugar-loaf; at the bottom of which, is situated the City of
Coquimbo;
which is said to be a large and very rich City; i
driving a great Trade with
Lima, Panama,
and most of the South-sea Coast.
year
1704
From the Port of
Coquimbo
to the
Herradura,
is three leagues; and they bear from each other South South East, and North North West. This
Herradura
is a small deep sandy Bay, but seldom made use of by shipping; although in it is good fast anchor-ground. But the reason is, it lies too much open to South West and other Southerly winds.
From the
Herradura
to the Bay of
Tongoi,
is four leagues. At the bottom of the Bay is a River of fresh water; and right against the Rivers Mouth, is the common anchoring place, where is good defense from all the Southerly winds.
From this Bay of
Tongoi
to the Port of
Lymary,
is eight leagues. The Coast runs North North East and South South West The marks of this Port are, that ir hath a great Mount near it, called the Mount of
Lymary;
the sides of which, either to the Northward or Southward, appear full of high Trees; and in the middle of the Mount is broken Ground; and to the South VVest of it, are two Breasts or Bosoms.
From
Lymary
to
Choape
is ten leagues. This
Choape
is a high Hill; it has neither Port nor anchoring-place, but the Coast is full of Rocks.
From
Choape
to the Port of
Govanadore,
is thirteen leagues. This Port lyes in th
year
1704
Latitude of 31 d. 20 m. South, and Longitude from
London
West 75 d. 30 m. The Land is of a great height, three rows of Hills one within the other. The Port of
Govanadore
is a good and safe Port. It is defended from the South-winds, which are the common Trade-winds of this Coast. The anchoring place is right against the lowest part of the Land, in twelve fathom water. At the end of the small piece of low Land, is a Hill which has broken ground on the top of it, and looketh like the Chair of
Paita.
On the N. W. side of this Hill, is a Grove of great high Trees; and near the Port is an Island; on the North side of which is a good anchoring place and secure riding; for the Island it self keeps off the Southerly Winds.
From this Port off
Govanadore
to the Port of
Laligna,
is five leagues. Near the Point of this Port, are two sholes, on which, at high water, there is not above ten foot water. In this Port Ships lye at anchor in five fathom water, and here Ships load with Wheat and other Eatables for
Panama.
From
Laligna
to
Papuda,
is three leagues. It is deep, but very good anchor ground. It hath a high Hill, with broken ground on the top of it; and near it, is a spot of Trees. So that it is very like the Port of
Govanadore.
year
1704
From
Papuda
to the Rocks of
Clintera,
is five leagues. These Rocks lye visible above water; and near the Land, the Currents set strong to the Northward. Ships often sail pretty near these Rocks; for it is all clear and deep, seldom less than twelve fathom Water.
From these Rocks of
Clintera,
to the Port of
Clintera,
is two leagues. In it is deep water; and the Port has only a defense from the South winds, but to all Westerly winds it lyes open. This Port bears with
Valpariso
N. N. E. and S. S. W. distance sive leagues: And between, it is all very high and mountainous Land: Yet between the Hills, are many pleasant Valleys, which afford good Corn and Wine.
Near the Point of
Concon,
is a little Bay, in which are four small Rocks; each of these Rocks has a small shole quite round them, and the anchoring place is close over to the South shore; and in between the said Rocks, at the bottom of the Bay, is a small River, called the River of
Concon;
upon the Banks of which are situated several small
Indian
Towns and Villages. Here are several tall and large Trees, which upon occasion will make very good Masts for Ships.
A little to the Southward of this Point of
Concon,
is a large River, called the River
year
1704
of
Chily;
upon the Banks of which, are several Towns and Villages belonging to both
Spaniards
and
Indians.
This River is said to run some hundreds of Miles within Land. About half a League to the Southward of the Mouth of this River, are two small high Rocks; they lie about a Mile and a half from the shore. They have each of them a small shole of Sand round them; and there is no sailing between them and the Main, because it is shole-water.
From these Rocks to the Port of
Valparizo
or St
James
of
Chili,
is three Leagues. Here are four or five small Rivers running into this Bay, which make the Port of
Valparizo.
I do not know any where so many Rivers so near each other, upon all the Coasts of
Peru
or
Chili:
But upon the Coast of
Mexico,
it is very common. This Port lies in the Latitude of 32 d. 30 m. South. It is a place of great Trade, and from hence they send yearly several Ships laded with Corn, Wine,
&c.
and store of Gold. For although
Peru
is reckoned to abound in Silver, yet
Chili
is most abundant in Gold. Here is a pretty Town of three hundred Houses, belonging to the
Spaniards;
all pretty well built with Brick; But in none of these Parts of
Peru
or
Chili
are they so well built, as they are in and about
Mexico.
The Reason, as I
year
1704
suppose, is, that at
Mexico
they have a great many of their Materials from
Old Spain,
which here they cannot so well have. This place is govern'd by a
Spanish
Governour, as are all the Sea-ports: But in the Country within Land, there are several Cities, Towns and Villages, governed by
Indian
Governours; yet with Subordination to the
Spaniards.
This Port is famous for the great Trade it drives with
Lima
and the other Parts of
Peru;
as also for the rich Prize taken in it by our
English
Hero Sir
Francis Drake;
in which Ship he took a vast quantity of Gold, besides several other valuable Commodities. He also took the Town; in which he found store of Provisions. The Anchoring-place is at the bottom of the Bay, close under the South-shore, in seven, eight and nine Fathom Water, good fast Ground, rightagainst the Mouth of the River
Buajes;
where is a very good defense from all the South or Westerly Winds, by reason of a Point of Land, called the Point of St
James of Chili,
which shoots out to the Northward, and lies between the Anchoringplace and the Sea. At this Point is a shole of Sand; which, as the Point does, stretches away to the Northward; so that it is dangerous coming near the said Point; for the Shole runs out beyond it, near half a league: and at high water there is not above
year
1704
nine foot water on it. The Coast here runs South South East, and North North West.
From the Point of
Valparizo
to the Bay of
Zenaque,
is one league: And from thence to the Bay of
Rio,
another. In this Bay is a little Rock, which is called
Bishops Rock.
From this Rock to the Bay of
Salinas,
is four leagues. In this Bay is a good anchoring place, and it has a good defense from the Southerly winds. It is low Land by the Sea-side, although in the Country it is very high and mountainous. Here are several small Bays, in most of which is good riding in ten fathom Water.
From these Bays to
Topa de Calma,
is four leagues. Between them are the Sholes of
Raphael,
and a River of the same name right against them. These Sholes come out a league into the Sea, and there is no going between them and the main Land; for the Water is very shole. At
Topa de Calma
is an anchoring-place, but it lies open to the Southerly Winds; and near it, is an Island, on the North-side of which is a small Bay, in which Ships upon occasion sometimes come to an anchor: and in the said Bay is not less than twenty-five fathom Water. This place is much frequented with high winds.
year
1704
From
Topa de Calma
to
Lora,
is fourteen leagues. This
Lora
has broken Ground like to
Lymary;
and part of the Coast in the way, is low Land by the Seaside, till you come to the River of
Maule;
which is distant from
Topa de Calma
seven leaves. In this River is two fathom at low water. In it are said to be many
Indian
Towns and Villages, in which they have plenty of Provisions. It is a very windy place, and at the entry of the River are two Rocks; half a league to Leeward of which, is a small anchoringplace. From this River of
Maule,
to
Lora,
as I said before, is seven leagues. Near to the broken Ground is an anchoring place, which has a defense from the Southerly Winds.
From
Lora
to the Point of
Ʋ nmos,
is three leagues. It is a bad Point, having abundance of foul Ground lying off it. On this Point were cast away two great
Spanish
Ships, and all their Men drowned. It is good to keep at a distance from it.
From the Point of
Ʋ nmos
to the River
Itata,
is seven leagues. The River is extraordinarily well inhabited by
Spaniads
and
Indians;
and on the South-side, near the River's Mouth, is an anchoring-place The Coast is deep from
Topa de Calma
to this place, without any Port or an-choring place, excepting those I have named.
year
1704
From the River
Itata
to the Point of
Sinfonda,
is four leagues. This Point runs out a good way; and to the Southward of it, is a fine Bay, called the
Herradura;
at the bottom of which is a River; and on each side the River, is broken Ground. This
Herradura
is in form like the Letter C. It hath three Rocks at the entry, and within is defended from the North and South Winds.
From the
Herradura
to the Island
Quiquina,
is two leagues, North East and South West. This Island is four-square; and on the East-side is a small Bay, in which is very good anchoring in five fathom water. Ships that come from the Northward, go between this Island and the Main, on the North East side, when they are bound to the Port of
the Conception;
and it is a clear and good Passage, free from any Rocks, Sands or Sholes; and it is deep water. But Ships that come from the Southward, go in between the South Shore and the South West side of the Island; but they always keep nearest to the Island, by reason of a Rock and Shole which lie about a mile and a half off the Main. This Rock and Shole is called the
Grifo,
and is very dangerous: For several good Ships have been lost upon it. And a little within this
Grifo,
is another dangerous Shole, called the
Mormao.
A little
year
1704
within which, is an anchoring place. But the chief anchoring place is right against the City of
the Conception.
Here are several small Rivers, but none of note. This City is near to the Sea-side. It is a very pleasant place, having a fine River running through it; And three quarters of a mile from the City, is another fine River, called
Anderlen.
Ships that ride in the Port of
Conception,
must come to an anchor right-against the Fort of
Don Garcia;
that they may be ready to sail with a North-wind. This is a place of great Trade, affording both Corn, Wine and Oil; of which they send great quantitie
yearly to
Lima, Panama,
and other Part
of
Peru.
This Port lies in the Latitude o
37 d. South. On the South-side of th
Port, near the Main-land, are sholes a
along to the S. W. Point, which Point
a defence from the Southerly Winds.
About a league to the Southward
this Point, is another Port, called the Po
of St
Vincent;
and between these tw
Points is a small Island, with several Roc
about it; and at the Point of St
Vince
are some very dangerous sholes, whi
stretch off near a League into the S
But within the Port it is all good cle
Ground, with gradual Soundings fro
nine to four Fathom Water. It is a ve
good and secure Port, and in it is a defe
year
1704
from most Winds. It is all a sandy Bay, round the Port; on which are many small scattering Houses, mostly inhabited by
Indians.
From this Port to the River
Biobio,
is two Leagues. This River runneth very strong with a great Current, and hath two Rocks at the Entry of it. At this River beginneth the high Land of
Guera;
This Land is accounted by the
Spaniards
to be the highest Land of any yet known in the World; far exceeding the
Pico
of
Teneriff,
or
Santa Martha,
or any Land yet discovered. Near this River are the Breasts of
Biobio;
which are two high Hills, naturally in the form of Breasts.
From this River to
Labipi,
is seven Leagues. In the Harbour of
Labipi
is secure riding, and it has a defence from the North and South Winds. Near this Harbour is the Island of
Santa Maria;
in the Latitude of 37 d. 30 m. South. This is a low Island, about two Leagues in length; It is very well inhabited by
Indians.
On the N. E. side, is a fine deep and secure Bay, in which is from twelve to four fathom good fast sandy Ground; the Water growing shallow gradually, as one goes nearer to the bottom of the Bay.
From the Island of
Santa Maria
to the Island
Canero,
is ten Leagues; and they bear from each other N. W. and S. E.
year
170
The Land here upon the Main, is of a prodigious height, but here is no Port or Place of anchoring, unless it be in the Port of
Canero.
In this Port is the Island
Canero.
It is a small Island, lying on the North-side of the Port, just within its entrance. And at the bottom of the Bay is a small River of fresh Water. In this Port are no Rocks nor Sholes, nor any danger, but all gradual Soundings; and it has a a good defense from the S. and S. W. and other Westerly Winds, which are the worst Winds upon the Coast.
The Winds here are variable all round the Compass, as it is upon all the Coast of
Chili.
Upon the Coast of
Peru,
from the Line to 30 degrees of Southern Latitude, the common Trade-wind is Southerly, with fine Weather and no Rain; But here upon this Coast, it is common to have hard Gales of Wind, and very often great showers of Rain.
From the Port of
Canero
to the Hill of
Tucapel,
is two leagues. This is a high Hill, with a Plain or Table Land on the top. And a little to the Southward of it, is a River of the same Name. The Land hereabouts is very well inhabited by
Indians.
At the Mouth of this River, on the South-side, is a small Point, called the Point of
Tixba.
year
1704
From this Point to the River
Imperial,
is eight Leagues. This is a large River running a great way up into the Country; and the Banks of it are very well inhabited by
Indians.
Right against the Mouth of the River, is the Island
La Moucha.
This Island is about four or five Leagues in length. It is pretty high Land, and very well clothed with tall and flourishing Trees of several sorts; and on it are several small Rivulets of fresh Water. It is very well inhabited by
Indians,
who are always at War with the
Europeans:
For they think all white Men to be
Spaniards.
This was the Southermost and the first Land we saw upon our coming into the South Seas. About this Island are several sholes, and especially on the West-side, which stretch out a great way into the Sea. On the East-side is a fine Bay, in which is very good safe anchoring. It lies in the Latitude of 38 d. 30 m. South; and I made Longitude from
London
to this place West 78 d. 00 m. and we found variation 8 d. 42 m. Easterly. It was at this place that Sir
Francis Drake
and his Boats-Crew going ashore for Water, and asking the
Indians
for
Agua,
(which is the
Spanish
name for Water,) the
Indians
by their Language thinking them to be
Spaniards,
with whom they are always at mortal Variance, fell
year
1704
upon the
English,
and with their Arrows wounded every one of them; but by the good Conduct of Sir
Francis
he and his Company got to his Boat, and so saved themselves to the Ship.
A little to the South of this Island, on the main Land, is the River of
Tolton;
which is a large River. And here the Rivers are commonly full, as on the Coast of
Mexico;
not drying away at certain times, as they do on the Coast of
Peru.
This River is distant from the Port of
Valdivia
25 Leagues.
Valdivia
or
Baldivia,
is a noted place. It lies in the Latitude of 40 d. South. It is very well fortified and hinders the approach of an Enemy. In this Port are a great many Islands; on one of which is situated the Town and Fortifications of
Valdivia▪
This place (as we were told by the
Spaniards
) was so called from one
Valdivia
a
Spaniard,
who was formerly Governour o
it. This Man was said to be so covetou
of Gold, that he would not by his goodwill let any body have any but himself▪ The poor
Indians
he would punish so barbarously, that they often died under it▪ and his reason was, because they did no
bring him Gold enough. He employe
some thousands of
Indians
to seek it, an
taxed them so much
per
Day; which th
poor
Indians
being not able to get, an
year
1704
knowing if they returned empty-handed, they should be severely used, they joined together in a Body, and took two pound weight of Gold, which they melted, and with it resolutely came to the Governour, and said;
O,
Valdivia!
Thou hast a very great and greedy desire after our Gold; we have used all possible means to satisfie thee, but could not. Now by good hap we have thought upon a way. Here is Gold; drink thy fill; for here is enough to satisfie the most Covetous.
And immediately they bound him, and poured it down his Throat; with which he presently died, and with his death gave name to this Town and Port of
Valdivia.
The
Indians
have ever since been at War with the
Spaniards,
and hold them hard to it: And the
Spaniards
are desirous by all means possible to conquer these people; that they might be Masters of so rich a Country. For though
Peru
does abound in Silver, yet this Empire of
Chily
is the most aboundant in Gold. And
Mexico
abounds both in Gold and Silver, Cochineel, Indico and Cocoa. They have also in
Mexico
many Mines of Iron; but the
Spaniards
think it not worth their while to open them.
A TABLE of Latitude, Longitude, and the Variation in most of the principal places, as we coasted along the three Empires of
Chili, Peru
and
Mexico.
 
Latitude.
Longitude
Variation.
 
d.
m.
d.
m.
d.
m.
Port of
Valdivia
40:
00 S
77:
15 W
 
 
Island
La Moucha
38:
30 S
78:
00
8:
42, E.
Island
Santa Maria
37:
30 S
77:
00
 
 
Port of
Conception
37:
30 S
76:
10
 
 
The great River
Itata
34:
35 S
75:
40
 
 
Island
Juan Fernando's
33:
50 S
82:
40
6:
05, E.
Port of
Valparizo
32:
30 S
75:
00
 
 
Port of
Govanadore
31:
20 S
75:
30
 
 
Port of
Coquimbo
30:
00 S
 
 
 
 
Port of
Copiapo
21:
00 S
 
 
2:
50, E.
Port of
Arica
18:
20 S
72:
20
1:
27, E.
Port of
Ylo
18:
00 S
73:
20
1:
00, E.
Port of
Lima
12:
20 S
76:
00
00:
00,
Port of
Guara
11:
02 S
77:
10
 
 
Port of
Cosma
09:
50 S
78:
35
 
 
Port of
Truxillo
8:
15 S
79:
25
 
 
Port of
Malabrigo
8:
00 S
79:
35
 
 
Island of
South Lobos
6:
20 S
 
 
 
 
Port of
Paita
5:
15 S
81:
37
2:
47, W.
Cape
Blanco
3:
45 S
81:
50
2:
52, W.
Island
Saint Clara
3:
00 S
80:
50
 
 
Point
Saint Hellena
2:
20 S
82:
30
 
 
Cape
Saint Lorenzo
1:
00 S
82:
15
3:
09, W.
Cape
Passao
0:
08 S
82:
40
3:
33, W.
Cape
Saint Francisco
01.
00 N
81:
50
3:
57, W.
Latitude
Longitude
Variation.
 
d.
m.
d.
m.
d.
m.
River of
St Jago
01:
45 N
76:
20
 
 
The Island of
Gallo
02:
45 N
76:
38
4:
00, W.
The Island
Gorgonia
3:
00 N
 
 
 
 
The Island
Palmas
4:
15 N
 
 
 
 
Cape
Corrientes
5:
0 N
 
 
 
 
Port
Quemado
6:
0 N
 
 
 
 
Port
Pinas
7:
0 N
 
 
 
 
Point
Garachina
7:
20 N
 
 
 
 
Point of
Burica
9:
00 N
 
 
 
 
Gulfo Dulce
9:
08 N
 
 
 
 
Cape
Blanco
10:
20 N
 
 
 
 
Gulfe of
Popagajo
11:
30 N
 
 
 
 
Port of
Ria Lexa,
alias
Ria Leon
12:
40 N
 
 
3:
58, W.
Point
Cassavina
12:
45 N
 
 
3:
26, W.
Gulf of
Amapalla
13:
00 N
97:
30
 
 
Port of
Sonsonate,
alias
Trinadad
13:
20 N
 
 
 
 
Vulcan of
Attitlan
13:
25 N
 
 
3:
00, W.
Vulcan of
Sapotitlan
13:
51 N
 
 
2:
51, W.
The Hill of
Bernal
15:
00 N
 
 
2:
45, W.
Port of
Tecoantepeque
15:
36 N
 
 
2:
42, W.
Port
Guatulco
15:
30 N
 
 
 
 
Port
Angels
15:
45 N
 
 
 
 
Port of
Acapulco
17:
06 N
 
 
 
 
Port of
Navidad
or the
Nativity
19:
20 N
 
 
 
 
Cape
Corrientes
20:
30 N
 
 
 
 
CHAP. VIII.
Difficulty in getting Water at the Island
Conchagua
in the Gulf of
Amapalla.
Departure from the Gulf of
Amapalla
for
India.
The Fish
Yellow-Tail
described. Tradewind brisker in the South Sea, than in the Atlantick. Very little Variation observed in the Run over to
India.
Arrival at the Island
Magon.
The Island
Guam. Matan. Arracife.
Three unknown Islands discovered. The
Boneto
described.
Indians
wonderfully amazed at the sight of white Men. The Main-Land of
New-Guinea.
The Island
Gillolo.
Attempt to find a new Passage on the Coast of
New-Guinea.
A new Streight discovered, called St
John
's Streight. The Islands
Ceram
and
Bonoa.
They indeavour in vain to get Provisions at
Manipa.
Description of the Island
Manipa.
year
1704
Great distress for want of Provisions. The Island
Amblow.
Arrival at
Amboyna.
AND now having given a particular Description of the Coast of
Mexico, Peru
and
Chili
(from the Tropic of
Cancer
to 40 d. South) as far as we observed our selves or could learn from the
Spaniards;
I shall return to the Gulf of
Amapalla,
where we were fitting our Vessel in order to our intended Voyage for
India.
Here therefore we went ashore at the Island
Conchagua,
to seek for water; and after some search, we found behind the Hills a large bottom, in which was a large Plantain-walk, and a great deal of Rainwater, that fell from the Mountains. This was very inconvenient for us, because lying so behind the Hills, we knew we must be forced to carry all our water over a high Hill, which we could hardly climb by our selves: But seeing there was no remedy, we first cut down the Bushes which were in our way, to make us a clear Path; After which, the Hill being pretty steep on the Land-side, towards the bottom, wherein was the fresh water; we with our Axes and Shovels cut out steps in the Hill: And our Sail-maker having in the mean time made us a Canvas-Pipe of about ninety fathom
year
1704
long, to carry our water from the top of the Hill down to our Cask which lay at the foot of it; we went to work to fill our water; each Man having with him a six Gallon Cask. The water which we took up was very muddy; and on the top of it grew Duck-weed, as it does usually in our Ditches. At first we raked the Duck-weed away: But our Doctor perswading us, that if we took up the weeds, they would mightily preserve our water; we, according to his advice, took up both weeds and water together. When each Man had filled his six Gallon Cask, he carried it up to the top of the Hill, and then poured it into the Canvas-Pipe, which conveyed it down the Hill into our Cask. Thus we employed our selves for four days. And having filled about twenty-five Tuns, which we concluded would last longer than our Victuals; and got it on board our Vessel; the next day, being the 31st of
January
1704/5, we all went ashore to the Plantain-walk: And having cut down a sufficient quantity of them, we returned at night on board our Vessel, intending to sail next day. This Evening two of our Men who had resolved to stay with Captain
Dampier,
left him and came over to us; so that now we were 35 in number,
viz.
thirty-four
English,
and one little
Negro
Boy, whom we had taken from the
Spaniards.
year
1704
During the time of our watering our Bark, the Men on board the Ship belonging to Captain
Dampier,
were busie in refitting their Ship as well as they could: The Carpenter stopt the Shot-holes, which they had in their Powder-room, with Tallow and Charcoal; not daring, as he said, to drive in a Nail, for fear of making it worse: And the four great Guns, which usually stood between Decks, were put down into the Hold; there being sixteen besides, which was more than they had Men to manage; for there remained with them no more than twenty-eight Men and Boys, and most of them Landmen.
On the 1st of
February,
1704/5, we left the Gulf of
Amapalla,
and Captain
Dampier
in his Ship the St
George
at anchor in it. We steered out between the Island of
Amapalla
and the Island
Mangera;
and many times had not above two fathom Water. We had a fine Gale of Wind at N. E. which soon carryed us out of the Mouth of the Gulf. So long as we had been in any of the Harbours on this Coast of
Mexico,
we had seldom been allowed any thing but Flower; Excepting that we used to go ashore, and found upon the Rocks store of Conchs, Oysters, Muscles, Snails,
&c.
of which we made many a good Meal: But now being in hopes of
year
1704
getting into a Land of Plenty, we bore Hunger with more patience. And indeed we had great need of Patience. For now our Commons was lessened to half a pound of course Flower a Man
per
Day, with two Ounces of Salt-Meat every other Day. Our Vessel was a small Bark with two Masts, of about seventy Tuns, which we had taken from the
Spaniards;
But whilst we lay here, she was so eaten by the Worms, that she begun to grow very leaky; and to add to our Afflictions, we had no Carpenter; neither if any of us should fall sick, had we any Doctor, or any Medicines to make use of; And, which was worst of all, we had no Boat to assist our selves, if our Vessel should fail us; for the Doctor, Carpenter and Boat were left with Captain
Dampier.
But trusting to Gods Providence, who had already delivered us out of so many dangers, we proceeded on our intended Voyage for
India.
On the 2
d
of
Febuary
we had a calm most part of the day and night; and this day we caught several Fish called
Yellowtails,
See Fig. XXVIII.
which came swimming about our Vessel. These Fish were about four Foot in length. He had twenty Fins on his Back; one middling one near the hinderpart of his Head, one large one near the middle of his Back, and eighteen small ones stretching from the said large one to
year
1704
his Tail. He had two large Fins near his Gills, one of each side; and thirteen under his Belly;
viz.
one middling one underneath near the Gills; one large one near the middle of his Belly, which goes in with a Dent, and eleven small ones stretching from the said large one to his Tail, which is Half-moon'd. He has a very large Head, a great Eye, and is extraordinary good Food. It is very Fleshy, having no Bone but the Back-bone. These Fish, when taken by us, looked very white; but the tips of their Fins and Tail, were yellow; for which reason we called them
Yellow-tails.
They were very welcome to us; for whilst they lasted, which was three days, we saved our own Provisions, feeding upon nothing else but this Fish.
On the 3
d
of
February,
the first part of the day it continued calm, in which time five or six Turtles coming near the Vessel, we caught two of them; which still served to help us out. About six in the Evening we had the Land-wind at N. E. a fine fresh Gale: So we took our departure from the Mount of St
Michaels,
a noted Mount, of which I have already given a Description. It lies in the Gulf of
Amapalla,
in the Latitude of 13 d. North. We reckoned Longitude from
London
West. 97 d. 30 m. and, as I said before, we found Variation
year
1704
3 d. 26 m. westerly. We steered away S. W. the sooner to get off the Land into the true N. E. or E. N. E. Trade. For we knew the present Wind to be only the Land-wind, which we could not think would last long. For we did not expect to get into the true Trade, till we had run about ninety or a hundred leagues from the Land. For which reason we steered away, as I said, S. W. and S. W. by W. Which course we held till we came into the Latitude of 10 d. When finding our selves in the true Trade, we hauled away VV. N. VV. intending to get into the Latitude of 13 d. North; and so as near as we could, to maintain our Latitude till our arrival at the
Ladrone
Islands; knowing, if we kept in that Latitude, it was impossible to miss them; We had fine fresh Gales of VVind, first at N. E; but as we run off the Land, we found it edge to the N. E. by E, and thence to the E. N. E; where it continued with us till our passing the
Ladrone
Islands. VVe now made us studding Sails out of our Mainsail and Main-top-sail. VVe got our studding Sails up by day break every morning, and at Sun-set haul'd them down again: For it commonly blew so fresh in the Night, that we were forced to settle our Top-sail; and with the rising of the Sun, the VVind would something abate again:
year
1705
Yet we always had as much as we could well carry with our Studding-sails. The Trade-wind we found here to blow much brisker than it does in the
Atlantick
or
East-Indian
Oceans.
For the first twenty Days after our Fish and Turtle was gone, we fed upon nothing but our Plantains, of which we allowed our selves two for a Meal, and two such Meals a day: But after our Plantains were gone, we went to our half pound of Flower a Man
per
day, and our two ounces of Salt Beef or Pork every other day. The Meat had been so long in Salt, that when we boiled it, it commonly shrunk one half. So we finding a loss in boiling our Meat, concluded to eat it raw; which we did all the Voyage after, so long as it lasted. We now and then caught a Dolphin, and sometimes saw a great many Sea-birds, as Boobies, Noddies,
&c.
which would come and settle upon our Vessel; and happy was he, that could catch one of them.
In this Run I think none of us took the pains to observe by the AZ
th
Compass. For the variation was so little, that we never minded it.
year
1705
On the 10th of
April
1705, towards Evening, we saw the Clouds gather about the Horizon much more than usual. This was a great sign or token of Land. For
year
1705
it is common between the Tropicks to be foggy or cloudy over the Land; although it be never so clear at Sea. Therefore all this Night we took a special care to look out; and on the 11th in the Morning betimes we saw the Island of
Magon
bearing West, distant about ten Leagues.
See Fig. XXIX.
It was a high woody Island, and very plain and green on the top. So we stood towards it; and when we had brought it to bear North, distant about a Mile, I took the Draught of it, which appeared as in the Figure. Being in so near, we laid our Ship by; and several fishing Boats came to us, and brought us some Fish, with some Eggs, Yams, Potatoes,
&c.
These vvere very acceptable to us; for now our Salt Beef and Pork was just at an end; and we had nothing to trust to, but our half pound of Flower a Day for each Man, and that very full of Vermine, Maggots and Spiders. The Men in those Fishing-Boats were a very tall and large-limb'd People, of a tawny Complexion, having long black Hair reaching down to their middle: They all go stark-naked, not so much as covering their Privy-parts. In exchange of what we had of them, we would have given them Money; but they looked on it and gave it us again, making Signs to us to give them Tobacco in the room of it; which we did, and
year
1705
they seemed very much pleased. We also gave them some old Shirts, which they immediately tore in pieces, and rowled them round about their Heads. We would have given each of them a Dram of Brandy, but they were afraid to drink it. Only one of them, seeing us drink to each other, and that it did us no hurt, at last made Signs that he would drink with us. So we gave him a good Glass full, which he immediately drank off; but we thought the Fellow would never shut his Mouth again; for he was so amazed at the Heat it had left in his Mouth and in his Belly, that I believe he thought he had set himself on Fire. He laid himself down and roared like a Bull; which scared most of the rest of them away. After he had roared near half an Hour, he fell fast a sleep: And we being in haste, put the poor Fellow into his Boat; and made signs to his Consorts to take care of him, that he might not fall over-board. They seemed to be a very civil People; but however we did not care to let too many of them come into our Vessel at a time. Their Language we could not understand at all. When they first approached us, they tied two Sticks together in fashion of a Cross, and held them up for us to see: Which was, as we suppose, to signifie to us that they had some Knowledge of the Christian Religion.
year
1745
We in return showed them a Crucifix, which we had taken from the
Spaniards;
at the sight of which they all bowed their Bodies, and came on board. This Island of
Magon
I make to lie in the Latitude of 13 d. 00 m. North; and we made Longitude from the Mount of St
Michael's
W. 120 d. 09 m. or 7029 Miles; allowing between 58 and 59 Miles to a degree of Longitude in this Parallel. The Boats which these Fishermen came on board in, were about forty foot in length, and about seventeen or eighteen Inches broad aloft, but not above three Inches broad below. Their Head and Stern were alike. The bottom to the Waters edge, was one entire piece, but hollow; upon which, for the side of the Boat, was a piece of thin Plank, about three foot broad, and of the same length as the Boat it self. It had its lower Edge sowed with Rattans to the bottom of the Boat. They had two long Poles put out of one side; One was within ten foot of one end of the Boat, and the other within ten foot of the other end: So that they lay distant from each other about twenty foot. The Poles were about thirty foot in length; at the end of which was a long piece of Plank of about twenty-one foot, of the same shape, and about one fourth part of the bigness of the bottom of the Boat. This piece is laid across
year
1705
at the outer end of the Poles, from one Pole to the other; where it is very securely made fast: And this altogether, is called the Out-leaker. This is always the Weather-side; and the use of it, is to keep the Boat from over-setting. For without the Out-leaker the Boat is so narrow, that it would not bear it self. They have but one Sail, which is made of Matt, and like our
Bermudo's
Sail. It is not above two Inches broad at top, and hauls out by a Boom. When they have a mind to go about; it is only letting go the Sheet of the Sail, and hauling it aft on the same side at the other end of the Boat; and then that which was the Stern before, is now become the Head; any end going foremost, and no distinction in the built of either end: But the same Side still and always remains the Weather-side. Most of these Boats were painted red.
See the Figure of the Boat with its Out-leaker.
See Fig. XXX.
We were now in Consultation amongst our selves, whether we should steer away for the North West, amongst the
Philippine
Islands; or to the South West, for the Coast of
New-Guinea;
But after a debate of about two Hours, we concluded to haul away South West, for the Cape of
New Guinea.
Which accordingly we did; and the same day passed by the Island of
Guam,
which lies South from the Island
year
1705
of
Magon,
about seven leagues: So that I make this Island to lie in the Latitude of 12 d. 39 m. North. We only passed by it at a distance. Wherefore I can give no particular Description of it. Yet as we passed by, I took a Draught of it, as it appeared to us South, distance 5 leagues. The Land to us seemed of an indifferent height; but it was quite plain and flat on the top. This Island belongs to the
Spaniards,
who have a small Fortification on it.
See Fig. XXXI.
It is kept for the conveniency of the
Manila
-Ship, which always touches here to refresh, in her way to
Manila.
From hence we kept our Course South West, and passed by the Island of
Matan,
which lies about six leagues due North from the Islan
Guam.
And at six this same Evening, being
April
the 11th, we took our departure from the Island of
Magon,
it then bearing North East, distant nine leagues. We still had a fresh Gale, as usual, at East by North and East North East. And on the 17th we saw the Island of
Arracife,
bearing East by North, distant 10 leagues. It seemed to be a very high Island. Whether it is inhabited or no, I know not.
From hence we steered away South South West, till we came into the Latitude of 5 d. North. Hitherto we had fine fresh Gales of wind at North East; but now drawing near the Line, we sound the Winds veer
Fig. 31.
Thus Showeth the Island of
Guam
the Body of it bearing
th Distance 5 Leagues.
Fig: 32.
The Boneto
Fig 33.
Part of the Main of
Nova Guinea.
The Passage into the East Indian Sea.
Part of the Island
Gillolo.
Fig. 34.
Part of the Island
Ceram.
A Fresh water River
wch we watered.
A Small woody Isl.
first anchoring
The best anchoring place.
The Island
Bonoa
year
1705
to East South East, and South East, and often met with small Squalls of Wind and Rain, till we came into the Latitude of 4 d. North, and then we had a Calm for seven days. This was a great disheartning to us; for now we had so little Victuals, that it would hardly keep us alive. For we could not allow our selves any more than six Ounces of course Flower a Man
per
day. This we used to scald with hot water, and so eat it. For want of sufficient Food, we now found our selves to grow very weak. But it was our good Fortune to have store of Water, of which, when we could not sleep for hunger, we would drink a large draught: This would satisfie us a little at the present so that we could sleep; but as soon as we waked, we always found our selves as hungry as before.
On the 3d of
May,
sprung up a small Gale of Wind at West; and we steered away South, till being almost out of hopes, because the Wind began to die away again, on the 5th, about ten in the Evening, we smelt a very fine and fragrant smell, which gave us new hopes that we were near some Land. We looked over our Draughts; but they gave no Description of any; yet we were sure we could not be far off some Land, from whence that fragrant smell must proceed. So we continued in our hopes till the next Morning; when accordingly
year
1705
we saw Land right a-head of us, as far as we could see. And a small Gale springing up at South East, we steered away South West by West directly to it. By Noon we made it to be three small Islands, very low Land, but all very green and pleasant. At the same time we had an Observation, and found our selves in the Latitude of 00 d. 50 m. North. The Eastermost of the said three Islands bearing South East, distant about four leagues, which makes its Latitude to be 00 d. 42 m. North.
At the same time we caught two
Bonetoes,
See Fig. XXXII.
which were very welcome to us; for they made a good Meal for all our Company; And this was the first we had had for a long time. This Fish is commonly of about three foot in length, and two foot about. It hath two middling Fins on his Back, with eleven small ones stretching to his Tail. He hath the like number opposite under his Belly: with two large ones, one on each side, near his Gills. He hath a very sharp Head, with a small Mouth, a full Eye, and a half-moon'd Tail. It is a very fleshy Fish, having no Bone but his Back-bone: And they make very good Broth.
All this Night we stood off and on; designing not to venture too near these unknown Islands in the Night; not knowing
year
1705
what danger there might be near them. The next Morning, at Day-break, being
May
the 7th, we found our selves within a Ships length of a great ledge of Rocks, which ran from 1 Island to the other; which we not seeing before, and thinking to go between the two Islands, had like to have been upon them; But through God's great Mercy, a small breeze of Wind coming from the Shore, we got off, and stood to the westermost Island; because we saw many Sholes lying off the rest of them. The Rocks we had like to have been upon, were near the Northermost Island; which, upon account of our miraculous escape, we call'd the Island of
Deceit;
it having, to the Eye, discover'd no such danger. When we came near the Westermost Island, which was the biggest of the three, we stood in for the Island; and as we drew nearer, about forty or fifty of their flying Proes came off; in which might be about four hundred and fifty Men, allowing ten to each Proe: And we could see multitudes of people upon the Shore: For as we past by any of these Islands to go to the next, the people also followed us. Their flying Proes lay at a distance from us, and viewed us; till we beckoned and made Signs for them to come to us. Then one of them, which was in the midst, advanced towards us; and being pretty near, lay
year
1705
and looked on us for a while. VVe still made Signs for him to draw nearer: Then he came within a Ships length of us, and lay still again. In her were ten Men all naked; and in the midst of them, a grave chearful old Man, of a pleasant Countenance; who had on his Head a four-cornered Cap, without a Crown; but otherwise he was quite naked, as were all the rest of them. This Man, by the Respect which all the rest in the Boat showed to him, we guessed to be a King or Prince. At their approach to us they sung a Song, which continued about a quarter of an hour: VVe could not understand it, but it was tuned very prettily. VVhen this Song was done, they came almost close to our Vessel's side, and then sung another Song. This was begun by the grave old Man, and followed by all the rest in the Boat. VVhich done, they put themselves in the posture of praying, and made several Bows and Cringes towards us, after the manner of their Country. Then one of the Men in the Boat, having a very sore Leg, held it up to us, and pointed to the VVound: By the Signs he made to us, we understood that he would have us to cure it; for we being white, and they (I believe) having never seen any white Man before, they seem'd as if they did not think us to be mortal Men.
year
1705
After this, we poured some Water out of a Bucket into a Glass; and pointing to our Mouths, made signs that we wanted Victuals and Drink. Then they shook their Heads, in way of Denial, as I suppose. But seeing us still make towards the Island, one of the Men in the Boat blew a Horn; at the sound of which, all the rest of the Boats made boldly to us. Upon this, we all believing they would be aboard of us, fired a Musket over them; not designing to harm, but only to frighten them: At the noise of which they seemed wonderfully amazed, and drew back; menacing us at a distance with their Paddles, and still following us. So, seeing, as I said before, many hundreds of them upon the shore; and finding we could have nothing from them, but by force; and having no Anchors or Cables by which we dare trust our Bark; and besides having no Boat to go ashore in; so that should we swim ashore, as some of our Men proposed, yet we could not carry our Arms with us; and the
Indians
might knock us on the Head with Stones, whilst we were in the Water; we concluded there was no good to be done here. VVherefore examining our VVater, and finding sufficient for eighteen Days at a quart of VVater to each Man
per
Day; we resolved to leave these Islands, and to trust to God's Providence
year
1705
to guide us to a more friendly place, where we might supply our wants; not doubting but we should furnish our selves with Water at some Island or other, in a place where there were so many. So we left the said Islands, and called the Westermost of them
The Island of Disappointment,
because we made certain account of getting some Water here, but could not. They were all three, low, flat, even Islands; full of several sorts of Trees, all very green and flourishing; And no doubt, if we had had a Boat, we might have met with something which would have been beneficial to our selves, and of advantage to our Country: As we might also at several other small Islands, which we afterwards pass'd by. The Inhabitants of most of these Islands, were a very large strong-bon'd People. They had long black streight Hair, which reached down to their middle; and they all go stark naked, not so much as covering their Privy-parts. I think I never saw such a parcel of large stout-limb'd Fellows together in my Life. We here found a Current setting pretty strongly to the Northward; as it did ever since we left the
Ladrone
Islands.
From these Islands we steered away South West; having a fine fresh Gale of Wind at East. The water here was very foul, being full of Grass and other Trash,
year
1705
which lay driving up and down. VVe sounded several times, but had no Ground at a hundred Fathom; so we still kept on our Course, and kept good looking out all night. The next Morning betimes, being
May
the 8th, we saw the main Land of
New-Guinea,
bearing South by West, distant eighteen or nineteen leagues. And now with a few old broken Boards, which we had in our Vessel, we went to work to build us a small Boat; which afterwards proved very useful to us. The Land was very high and mountainous. At a distance it looked very black; but drawing nearer, it looked more grey. The 9th, we had dirty squally uncertain weather, and the VVinds variable all round the Compass. VVe kept the Coast of
New-Guinea
aboard; and the Land still continued to be of a good height, very full of great high Hills, and small Valleys; which all seemed very barren.
See Fig. XXXIII.
It is all a rocky Coast; neither could we perceive any Harbour, Bay, or place to anchor in. VVhether there be any Inhabitants hereabouts, I know not; but vve never savv any, nor any sign of any, either by Sea in Boats, or upon the Land by Fires or Smokes, as is usual in all inhabited Countries.
The same day vve came abreast of two small Islands; neither of vvhich vvas above a league in length. They vvere lovv,
year
1705
and very vvell clothed vvith small and green Trees. At the same time we saw also a part of the great Island
Gillolo,
See Fig. XXXIII.
bearing VVest, distant eight leagues. This vvas also high Land, but not so high as the Coast of
New-Guinea.
We kept on our Course, steering West South West, intending to go between the Main of
New-Guinea
and the Island
Gillolo;
this being our passage for the
East-Indian
Sea.
From the 8th to the 11th, we had dirty Rainy-weather for the most part, with uncertain Gales of Wind; and in the Night, it being dark, and we not keeping the Coast of
New Guinea
so close aboard as we should, we missed the common Passage, and ran past it; and in the Morning betimes, found our selves amongst a vast number of small Islands: When perceiving we had over-shot the Passage, and the Wind being at East, we concluded to look out for a passage to the Southward amongst these Islands. Accordingly we stood to the Southward; but found a great many Rocks and Sholes which stretched from one Island to another: Wherefore at Night, there being little Wind, and not daring to venture further amongst these unfrequented Islands and Sholes; we resolved to lye by all Night: Intending in the morning, if the Wind should prove Westerly, to return back again and
year
1705
go through the common Passage; but if it still continued Easterly, then to indeavour to find out a new Passage to the Westward. This Night we saw two or three Fires, which were made on shore by the Inhabitants. The Islands here were most of them of a good height, and pretty well clothed with several sorts of Trees, which all appeared very green and flourishing. This day we put our selves to a Pint and half of Water a Man
per
day. On the 12th we had fair weather; with a fine fresh Gale at N. E. So we proceeded to the Westward, and at the same time had a strong Tide setting to the Westward. About eight this morning we shot in between two high Head-lands, which were distant from each other near two Miles. Upon this, some of us went to the Topmast-head, to look if we had a clear Passage through; and we saw not any let or hindrance: So we got through this place by two in the Afternoon. It was in length about seven leagues, and about two Miles broad. In it we could find no Anchor-ground, till within a Ships length of the shore; and then we had thirty fathom Water. The Land here was of an indifferent height, and very woody. At noon the Tide setting back to the Eastward, and it being calm, we drove by five in the Evening half way back again;
year
1705
and drove with our Vessel so near the shore, that we kept her off with our Poles, and might have stepped from our Bark to the shore; and yet our Vessel never touched the ground, the Water being very deep close to the shore. Not long after, a strong Gale springing up again, by seven in the Evening we got clear out of this streight the second time; and then it fell calm again: And we drove with the Tide, which then set to the Westward. In this streight we saw a flying Proe under Sail, but it did not come near us. We also in some of the small Bays saw several old Houses, some standing, and some half down; but could not see any Inhabitants. On the 13th, we had little wind at E. S. E. and sometimes calm; but when we had any wind, we steered away S. by W. Here we saw a great many Islands to the Southward of us, but none of them so near together but that there vvas room enough to pass between them, and scarce any ground to be found vvith one hundred Fathom of Line. We still found vve got but very little; the Tides setting sometimes to the Southvvard, and then back again to the Northvvard, so that vve vvere not yet got above a league to the Southvvard of the said streight, vvhich vve, after the Name of our Bark, called St
Johns
Streighs. And I believe vve vvere the first
Europeans
that ever past it.
year
1705
On the 14th, vve had hazy vveather, vvith small drisling Rain, and little VVind; so that vve vvere not above two leagues further to the Southvvard, than vve vvere the day before. VVe here met vvith a great many small Islands. They vvere most of them of a good height, and very vvoody; but vve could perceive no sign of any Inhabitants. The 16th vve had hazy vveather, vvith fresh Gales of vvind at S. E. by S. and thence to the S. W. by S; so that vve vvere forced to reef our Top-sails: And in the Evening vve savv the Island
Ceram,
bearing South, distant nine leagues: We then steering E. by N. having the wind at S. E. by S. The Island
Ceram
at a distance seemed to be high Land, and looked very black. This day vve finished our Boat vvhich vve vvere building; it vvas tvvelve foot long, and four broad. On the 17th vve had fair vveather, vvith fresh Gales off shore; so that vve vvere forced to stand off and on, as the vvind vvould permit. This day vve savv a Sloop to the Eastward of us, which we vvould very vvillingly have spoken to; But they kept from us, standing to the Eastvvard along the Coast of
Ceram.
So vve still plyed in for the shore; and at noon savv the Island
Bonoa.
The Island
Bonoa
lyes in the Latitude of about
d. 45 m. South. And it is almost in the
year
1705
shape of a Horse-shooe. We still made towards the Island of
Bonoa;
and on the 18th of
May,
the wind veering about to the E. S. E. and East, we got in. We anchored near the N. W. end of the Island in thirty fathom Water, about a League from the shore. We durst not venture any nearer in, because of the many Sands and sholes which lye off here. But we sent our little Boat ashore, with two Men, and an empty Hogs-head to be filled with water. When they came ashore, they went up and down seeking for water; and after some search, found a small Pond. Here they filled the Hogs-head, and at Night returned on Board. They could not see any Inhabitants; although the Island is very well inhabited. But this North and N. W. side of the Island, is very barren, being nothing but great Rocky Hills, not affording any thing but some small Bushes. This probably might be the reason, that we saw no Inhabitants hereabouts. So that same Night a Laud-wind coming off, and we finding it very inconvenient watering here, because we were forced to lye so far off shore with our Vessel; and our Boat not being able to bring off more than one Hogs-head at a time; we weighed from this place, intending to water upon the Island
Ceram
On the 20th, we got into the Bay of
Ceram;
year
1705
where we Anchored in twenty five Fathom hard Sand, not above two Ships length from the shore; and sent our little Boat with three Men to look for water. At twelve this Night they returned again, having found out a fine small Spring of fresh water. The next day, it being calm, we got up our Anchor, and rowed our Vessel further in, till we brought the said River to bear S. E, distant about half a Mile, and then anchored in thirty Fathom water, good fast hard Sand; the bearings of the Land being as is represented in the Draught.
See Fig. XXXIV.
The Bay here was very woody all round, the Land pretty low, the water pretty deep close to the shore, which was sandy quite round the Bay. From W. S. W. to the S. E. and thence to the N. by VV. the Bay it self is a Defense from those winds; and from the VV. by S. to the W. N. W. the Island of
Bonoa
is a Defense. The Island
Bonoa
is much higher Land than this part of the Island
Ceram.
On the South side it is very well clothed with several sorts of large Trees, and the Valleys are very fruitful in Rice. Also on this South side, it is said to be very well inhabited. We staid in this Bay of
Ceram
till the 22d at Noon; and then having filled eight Tuns of water, and having a fine fresh Gale at S. E, we weighed from
Ceram,
and steered out between
Ceram
and
year
1705
the Island
Bonoa;
but kept nearest the
Ceram
shore. Between these Islands we saw several Proes, and a Sloop. We lay by, and sent our Boat to the Sloop; intending, if they had any Victuals that they could spare, to buy some of them; But the Sloop made the best of her way, and would not stay for our Boat: So our Boat returned on board again.
At the same time a large
Indian
Proe came on board us; in which was a Freeman of
Amboyna.
To him we declared our great want of Victuals, having had nothing for a long time to eat, but Flower and Water; and so little of that, as would hardly keep us alive. He told us, if we would go to the Island of
Manipa,
which was then in sight, he would be our Pilot, and carry us in; where he did not doubt but we might have Rice enough for our Money, to carry us to
Batavia.
Accordingly we steered directly for the faid Island of
Manipa;
and in our way passed by the Island
Keylan;
which is a small, but high Island, very well inhabited, and clothed with several sorts of Trees: Its chief product is Rice, and some few Cloves. And here liveth a Dutch Corporal with six Soldiers, whose only business is to see all the Clove-trees cut down and destroyed. From hence we proceeded to
Manipa,
where we arrived at about twelve
year
1705
at Night, and came to an anchor in a small Bay at the N. W. end of the Island. Then our Dutch Pilot sent two of his Men ashore, with a Letter to the Governour, to acquaint him with our wants. On the 23d, betimes in the morning, a Dutch Corporal with two Soldiers came on Board, and read to us an Order which he had from the Dutch
East-India
Company; that it was not usual for any Ships, except those belonging to the Dutch
East-India
Company, to anchor there; and that if any did, they were not to supply them with any thing. We told him it was through want of Victuals, that we were forced to put in here; and that if we could have subsisted, we should not have touched at any place till our arrival at
Batavia.
Wherefore we desired him to go ashore again, and declare to the Governour our wants. He seeing us in a very weak condition, promised he would;
nd that he would bring us word again. Accordingly he went ashore, and at four
the Evening returned again, and brought
word that we should have no Provisi
s there; but if we would go to
Amboy
,
there we might be supplyed. So to
great discouragement we were forced
leave this unfriendly place; intending,
the wind would permit, to go for
Am
a.
year
1705
The Island
Manipa,
is in length, S. E, and N. W, about fifteen Miles; in breadth, about eight; and lyes in the Latitude of about 3 d. 25 m. South; and Westward of the Island
Bonoa
about 20 Miles. It is a pretty high Island, and very well inhabited by
Malayans;
as are all the
Molucca
Islands. It is shole almost all round; which sholes some of them stretch a league and a half off the shore. Wherefore, unless a Man be acquainted or has good Draughts of the place, it is dangerous coming near it. The Island is of a good height, but not so high as the Island
Keylan
before mentioned. On it are several very good springs of fresh water; and on the S. W, side of the Island, the
Dutch
have a small Fort of six Guns. The Island is governed by a
Dutch
Sergeant, three Corporals, and a Mastergunner; and they have under them twenty
Dutch
Soldiers. On it grow abundance of Cloves and Rice, of which they send great quantities to
Amboyna.
The Inhabitants are most of them Fisher-men. They catch abundance of Fish here; not only enough for their own use, but also to supply
Amboyna
with.
From this place we stood to the South Westward, having the wind at S. S. E And it blowing fresh, we reefed our Top sails. But when we got clear of the Island,
year
1705
it blew so very hard, that we were forced to hand our Top sails, and go away under our courses. We were now quite out of heart: For we did not expect to fetch
Amboyna;
the S. E. Monsoon being set in, which wind was right against us; and besides it blew so hard, that we could scarcely carry any Sail. And we could not think of getting to
Batavia,
because we had not Victuals to carry us thither; and besides, as the wind was, we could not weather the sholes, which lye to the E. S. E, of the Island of
Bouton.
So being almost in despair, and the wind continuing, we kept our course to the Southward, till we came over against the Island
Bouro;
and then the wind veering to the S. S. W, we stood away S. E: But finding a strong Current setting to Leeward, so that we rather lost than got ground; and seeing no likelihood of getting to
Amboyna;
we by a general consent shared all that was Eatable on Board our Vessel; and the whole of what each Mans share amounted to, was six Pound and three quarters of Flower, with five Pound of Bran; which how long it was to last, we could not tell; however every one designed to be as sparing of his part, as possibly he could.
year
1705
On the 25th, the wind veering about to the S. S. E, we tackt and stood to the S. W; and soon weathered the Island of
Amblow;
which is a small Island, not above three Leagues in length. It is of an indifferent height, and lyes in the Latitude of 4 d. 05 m. South. It is pretty well furnished with Trees of several sorts, but not inhabited; neither do I know whether there be any fresh Water upon it. From hence we continued our Course till twelve at night; when a hard Gale of Wind coming down upon us, before we could hand our Sails (by reason of our weakness) it almost overset our Vessel: It split our Man-sail and Main-top-sail all to pieces, broke our Main-stay and two of our Fore-shrowds. We were then standing away South West, and had the Wind at South South East; intending, if we could weather the Sholes, to put for
Batavia.
But as soon as the Squall was over, it fell calm; and then we had so great a Sea, occasioned, as I believe, by the meeting of several Currents, that we thought our Bark could not hold it out. She laboured so much; and the Sea took us so a-head, a-stern, and on both sides, that we were always almost covered with water.
year
1705
On the 26th, sprung up a fine fresh gale at S. E. Whereupon, knowing we could not weather the Sholes, we tack'd and stood away N. E. for the Island of
Amboyna.
On the 27th, the Wind continuing, we held the same Course, and on the 28th betimes in the Morning saw the Island of
Amboyna
bearing due North, distant about six Leagues. So we stood away directly for the Island; and by Noon came just off the Harbour.
CHAP. IX.
The
A.
and the whole Crew and Ship secured at
Amboyna.
A particular Description of
Amboyna;
Its Situation, Soil, Inhabitants, Castle, Buildings; Its Subjectness to great Earthquakes; Its Government. Of the
Malayan
Inhabitants in it. The Hill-
Malayans
always at War with the Dutch.
Malayan
Slaves. The Custom of dealing with Debtors. Women-slaves. The Product of the Island; Cloves, Ginger, Pepper, Rattans, Canes, and Nutmegs. A particular Description of the growth of Cloves, the manner of gathering them,
&c.
Some Gold-mines said to be in this Island. The Governours annual Progress to visit the Spice-Islands. The Beasts and Birds upon this Island. The
Crockadore
described. The
Cassawaris
described. The
Bird of Paradice.
year
1705
The
Sea-Porcupine.
The Fruits in this Island. The Pine-apple described. The Mangoe. Very deep Water round the Island. Its Harbour and Fortifications. The place where the English formerly massacred here, were thrown. Several little Islands about
Amboyna. Boangbessy
and
Hinomoa. Banda.
The Governour of
Amboyna,
Chief over all the Spice-Islands. Moskitoes very troublesome at
Amboyna.
The Tryal of a certain
Malayan
for murdering his Slave. The
A.
and part of his Company released, and depart from
Amboyna.
AT our going into the Harbour of
Amboyna,
we met with two Ships coming out. These two Ships were laden with Cloves, and bound for
Batavia.
The
Dutch
Captain of one of them came on board of us, and demanded from whence we came, whither bound, and desired we would give him a Journal of our Voyage; promising to return it again, upon our arrival at
Battavia.
We satisfied him to all his demands; and our Agent for the Owners, gave him a small account of our Voyage.
year
1705
After which we stood farther in, and the two
Dutch
Ships left us. At night the Land-wind coming off, we run in for the Shore, to anchor; but could find no Ground with a hundred fathom of Line, till we came within a Ships length of the Shore; and then we had twenty fathom, hard Sand. Here we lay all night; and the next Morning, (being in our account
Tuesday May
the 28th; but according to the
Dutch
account,
Wednesday;
we having lost about eighteen Hours by our going to the Westward, and the
Dutch
having got six Hours by coming to the Eastward; which makes the difference of time to be 24 hours,) two
Dutch
Orambyes, with 40 Paddles each, came on board of us. They brought the Fiscal Secretary and several
Dutch
Gentlemen, and about thirty Soldiers, who took possession of our Bark. They also went down and sealed up all our Chests; and the two Orambyes went a-head to tow us in; and by noon we got up as high as the Town, where they moored our Vessel in the common anchoring-place. Here we continued till the 31st, not knowing how they designed to dispose of us. In which time they would not afford us any Victuals, although we proffer'd them a Crown for a pound of Beef, Pork, or Bread. In the Evening we were all sent on shore; where they had provided us two Rooms
year
1705
for our Reception, near the State-House; and our Bark, Money and Goods, except what we had about us, were all taken from us; and soon after, our Bark and Goods were sold at a publick Out-cry. We were fed with very bad Meat, which We who had been at spare Diet so long, and our Stomachs were very weak, could ill digest. And if we vvould have better, vve must buy it vvith our ovvn Money. Several of us had the good luck to have some Money about us; and as long as that lasted, vve bought our ovvn Victuals of our Keeper. Our
Spanish
Dollar, vvhich was five Shillings and a Penny value, he vvould give us no more than five
Dutch
Skillings for; which was to the value of about Half a Crown; And for this Half-Crown we could have no more Victuals than we might have bought for five Pence, if we had had our liberty to go into the Tovvn. So that instead of having five Shillings for our
Spanish
Dollar, we had indeed no more than five Pence.
And now being at a stop for a while at this Island of
Amboyna,
a place often mentioned for the Cruelties used towards the
English
here formerly, and having had time and opportunity to enquire into the Manners, Ways, Customs of the People, Strength of the Island, and Product of it; I shall give a small description of it, as far as I observed my self, or could learn of any of the Inhabitants, tho' secretly.
year
1705
And first, This Island of
Amboyna
is in length North East and South West twelve leagues.
See Fig. XXXV.
It is a high mountainous Land; the Hills are somewhat barren, but the Valleys are very fruitful. The Soil is black: and the Surface of it Salt-Petreish. The middle of the Island lies in about 3 d. 40 m. South. It is inhabited by
Malayans,
who are the original Natives. They are of a middle Stature, and tawny; but the Women are of a brighter tawny than the Men, and have long black Hair, which reaches down to the Calfs of their Legs: They have round Faces, small Mouths, Noses and Lips: They wear a Linnen Waste-coat, which reaches no lower than the lower part of their Breasts; and about their middle they were a piece of Cloth, about four Yards wide, and a yard deep; This they roul round them, and it serves them instead of a Petty-coat; For none are allowed to wear Petty-coats but the
Dutch
Women only; Neither are any of the
Malayan
Men allowed to wear a Hat, excepting only their King.
Although the
Malayans
are the most numerous, yet the
Dutch
are possest of all the Sea-Coast; and have here a strong Castle built of Stone, and mounted with sixty Guns; besides several other small Fortifications in other parts of the Island. Near this Castle, is a small Town, of
Fig: XXXV.
year
1705
about a hundred
Dutch
Houses, all well and strongly built of Stone, Brick and Timber; but all very low, none exceeding one Story, because of the many Earthquakes to which this place is very subject; so that should they be built higher, it would endanger the falling of them; as they often do, notwithstanding they are so low. Whilst we were here, we had a great Earthquake, which continued two Days; in which time it did a great deal of Mischief: For the Ground burst open in many places, and swallowed up several Houses and whole Families. Several of the People were dug out again, but most of them dead; and many had their Legs or Arms broke by the fall of Houses. The Castle-walls were rent asunder in several Places; and we thought that It and all the Houses would have fallen down. The Ground where we were, swell'd like a Wave in the Sea; but near us we had no hurt done.
The Island is govern'd by a Council, which consists of five Persons,
viz.
the Governour, the Chief Merchant (or upper Koop-man,) the
Malayan
King, the Captain of the Fort, and the Fiscal, who is in the Nature of a Judge. Upon the Island are said to be about 350
Dutch
Soldiers, with about 120 or 130
Dutch
Free-men and Petty-Officers, and near as many
year
1705
Chinese,
who live here for the advantage of Trade; although they are not allowed to trade in Spice, that being a peculiar Trade which the
Dutch
Company reserve to themselves. So that I reckon they can make in all about five hundred and fifty fighting Men,
Dutch
and
Chinese:
As for the
Malayans,
they would be of little Service to them, but rather be glad to be assistant to any Body against them. The
Malayan
Women here, are said to be great Whores; of which they are nothing ashamed. They are soon ripe, and often marry by nine Years of Age; and many of them are said to have Children by ten or eleven. All near the Water-side are forced to be under the
Dutch
Government, which is very Absolute and Tyrannick over them. For any small Fault they are severely handled; and many think themselves well, if they are not made Slaves, and to wear an Iron upon their Leg during Life. Those, I say, which dwell near the Sea-side, are all subject to the
Dutch
Government, and are Christians: But those within the Country, which are called the Hill-
Malayans,
are Mahometans. They are always at War with the
Dutch:
And if they take one of them Prisoner at any time; they never give him any quarter; but after they have kept him in Prison five Days without either
year
1705
Victuals or Drink, they bring him out, and first of all rip up his Breast with a sharp Knife and take out his Heart; at which there is great rejoycing of all the
Malayans
that are present. Then they cut off his Head, and embalm it with Spice to keep; And they who can show most of such Heads, are accounted the most honourable, and value themselves much upon it. The dead Body is left exposed to the ravenous Birds of Prey to feed on. The
Dutch,
to retaliate this usage, when they take any of these
Malayans,
lade them with many Irons, and lay them in Prison, where they continue some time; After which they cut off their Noses and Ears; and then they are sent to Prison again, where they continue some further time: After which they are brought out the second and last time, and they rack them till they die.
As for those under their own Government; if they are found guilty of thieving, they often cut off their Noses and Ears, and put a great Iron Chain upon their Legs, and so make them Slaves during Life. There were near five hundred of these poor Wretches, who were in continual Slavery whilst we were here; and they always took care to keep them employed; some in sawing of Timber, others in cutting of Stone; some in carrying of
year
1705
Burthens, and other labour. At Sun-rising every Morning they are let out of the Prison, in which they are kept, the Men in one, and the Women in another; and are immediately sent to work; where they continue till twelve at Noon; at which time they return back, and have an Hours time to dine: Their Dinner is always the same, being nothing but a Pint of course Rice boiled for each Man. At One they are sent to work again; where they continue till six in the Evening; at which time they return again, and go to Supper, which is always the same both in quantity and quality, as at dinner. Soon after they have supp'd, they are put into their Lodgings, and lock'd in; where they lie upon the bare Boards; and have seldom any thing but a large piece of Wood, which commonly serves five or six of them for a Pillow. Sometimes these poor Wretches make shift to escape; but if they are caught again, they are sure to be severely handled. There was One of these poor Slaves, a Woman, who had been severely used by the
Dutch;
and having once made her escape, and being taken again; she, knowing how severely she should be used, cut her own Throat, the Day before her appointed Punishment: After which she was by the Hair dragged out of the Prison all round the Town
year
1705
and then hung upon a Gibbet by her Feet, with her Head down-wards; which is the common Punishment for any that are guilty of Self-murther.
Such as are in Debt, and cannot satisfie their Creditors, the Creditors turn over to the Company; who send them to work amongst their Slaves. They have nothing allowed them, but Rice and Water, as the other Slaves; only they have two-pence a Day given them towards the Payment of their Debts; which avails but little: So that it is very seldom, if ever, that any one gets out, till he is carried out dead.
But though the poor Natives are thus severely handled; yet the
Dutch
themselves will wink at one anothers Faults; so that it is a great Rarity for any one of them to be punished, unless it be for Murther. Otherwise a small matter of Money will buy off a great Fault.
The Women that are Slaves to the Free-men, have all the liberty that may be, from their Masters and Mistresses; only they are obliged every Night to bring them a certain Acknowledgement, which is commonly about six-pence a Day; and to find their own Victuals, Cloths,
&c.
In default of which, they are severely used. They may whore and Deal, and all is well; if the dayly Acknowledgment
year
1705
be but brought, and no Complaint be made against them.
The chief of what this Island produces, is Cloves, Ginger, Pepper, Rattans, Cams, and some few Nut-megs.
The Clove-Tree is not very great of Body, but rather slender. It is in length from twelve to thirty or forty foot. The Branches are small; the Leaves about five Inches long, and two broad; and end tapering. One of these Leaves rubb'd between the Fingers, will smell very strong of Cloves; but without rubbing they have no smell at all. The Cloves grow just at the tip of the Branches; ten, twelve or fourteen in a Cluster. They are first white, then green, then of a dark Copper-colour; which is the time of their being ripe. The manner of gathering them, is to spread Cloths or Sheets round the bottom of the Tree, for a good distance. Then they shake the Tree; and all the Cloves that are throughly ripe and fit to be gathered, fall down. The rest which are left upon the Tree, they let hang for about six or seven Days. Then they shake as many more of them off, as are ripe and will fall. This they do three, four, or five times; till they are all down. The usual time of gathering of them, is in
October
and
February.
Those which are ripe in
October,
are called the Winter Clove;
year
1705
this being the end of their Winter; and they are not accounted so good or strong as the other. These they commonly preserve and put up in small Jarrs, of about a quart; of which they transport great quantities to several parts of the World. Those which are ripe in
February,
are called the Summer-Clove: These are accounted much better and stronger than the former; because these have the best part of the Summer to ripen in; whereas the former have not above a Months fair Weather, and all the rest is rainy and cloudy, so that the Rays of the Sun cannot come to them. It is the common receiv'd Opinion, that Cloves, Nutmegs, Mace and Cinamon, grow all upon one Tree; but it is a great mistake. These Trees commonly bear sixty, seventy, or eighty pound weight at a time; and every six Years they are sure to have a double Crop. There is a vast number of these Trees upon this Island; which are very carefully looked after, and a Register kept of them in the Company's Book. They are numbred once every Year; and beyond a certain number they will not let them encrease, but cut them down and destroy them for fear of lessenning the Price. All these Trees belong to the
Dutch
Company, or to their Freemen: But those that belong to the Free-men, the Company sets them an allowance as to
year
1705
their number: And if any one rears up more than what the Company allows of, he is severely fined, and his Trees forfeited. And whatsoever Cloves, the Trees belonging to Free-men produce, the Freemen are obliged to sell to the Company, after the rate of 6
d.
a pound. So that properly all the Cloves upon the Island are ingrossed into the Companies Hands; And if any Freeman or other sells or conveys away to the value of ten pounds; all that he has in the World is forfeited to the Company, and he to be made a Slave during Life. The Inhabitants used formerly to put Cheats upon the
Dutch
in the Sale of their Cloves; for it was common with them to put their Cloves in a large Sheet, which they hung up by its four Corners under the Cieling of their House; and upon the Floor, right under the Cloves, they would set a large Tub of fresh Water; which the Cloves, being very dry and of a hot Nature, would by degrees draw up, and make a large addition to their weight, without being easily perceived: But now the
Dutch
are grown too cunning for them; For they always try them by giving them a small fillip with their Fore-finger on the Head; and then, if the Clove be throughly ripe, and no Deceit has been used, the Head will break all in pieces like a piece of thin brittle Glass: But if it has been wetted,
year
1705
then the Clove will be very tough; and the whole Clove will sooner bend, than the Head fly off.
There are some few Nut-megs upon this Island; the Trees of which are much like the Peach. But they grow mostly at the Island
Banda:
From whence two or three Ship-loads are exported every Year. The Fruit of this Tree consists of four Parts; the first and outward Rind, is like that of a green Wal-nut; the second is dry and thin, which we call Mace; the third is a tough thin Shell, like that of a Chesnut; and the fourth is the Kernel included in the said Shell, which we call Nut-meg.
There are said to be upon this Island some Mines of Gold. One of the
Malayans
showed me some of the Ore, which he said was taken out of them: But this he said was a great Crime; and if the
Dutch
should know it, he should be severely punished: For this is an extraordinary Secret, which, as much as they can, they keep from all
Europeans.
Although, as I said before, they can raise about five hundred and fifty fighting Men upon this Island; yet once every Year they are forced to spare a great many of their People, which are sent away upon other Businesses. For commonly on the 20th of
October
each Year, eight or ten Days sooner or later, the Governour
year
1705
of this place goes his Progress, attended with about seventy five Orambies, some with a hundred, some eighty, some fifty, and some forty Paddles a-piece: In each of which go two
Dutch
Soldiers. I reckon there may be in this whole Fleet, of
Dutch
about 150 or 160, and about 5250
Malayans,
reckoning seventy
Malayans
to each Oramby, one with another. These seventy-five Orambies are divided into three Squadrons: The first consisting of twenty Orambies; which Squadron is always commanded by one of the Council, who carries a yellow Flag: The Rear consists of twenty more, and is commanded by the Fiscall, who commonly carries a red Flag: The rest are in the middle Squadron, and attend the Governour, who hath twelve
Dutch
Soldiers, a Corporal and a Serjeant for his Body-guard, and carries a blew Flag. The Governour carries with him the
Indian
King, and all their Princes, for fear they should rebel in his Absence. In this Order they go and visit all these Eastern Islands, but especially those that do or would produce Cloves or Nut-megs. And at every Island they go to, they have an additional strength. The time of their cruizing in this manner, is commonly six Weeks; in which time they cut down, burn and destroy all the Clove and Nutmeg Trees they can find, excepting such as
year
1705
are reserved for the Companies use. For all or most of these Islands do or would produce Cloves; But they will not suffer them, because they have enough to supply all
Europe
at
Amboyna
alone; and even there also, as I said before, they will permit but a certain number, least a Plenty of them should lower the price. Upon all these Islands the
Dutch
Company keeps Soldiers, three, six, nine or twelve, according as they are in bigness; Whose only business it is to see the Trees cut down, or at least to take care they do not encrease: For they are very jealous least the
English
or
French
should serve them such a Trick, as they themselves formerly served the
English
at
Amboyna.
During the time of their thus cruizing, they gather Tribute from all the petty Kings and Princes of these Islands; and commonly at the end of about six Weeks, return again.
Of Beasts here are several sorts, as Beeves, Hogs, wild Deer,
&c.
Of Fowls here are also several sorts, as the
Crockadore,
the
Cassawaris,
the
Bird of Paradice, &c.
The
Crockadore
is a Bird of various sizes; some being as big as a Hen, and others no bigger than a Pidgeon. They are in all parts exactly of the shape of a Parrot. Their Feathers are all over white, excepting only a Bunch upon their Head,
year
1705
which is always either yellow or red. This Bunch of Feathers lies so close fitted into a dent in the Head, that they cannot be perceived, unless when the Bird is frighted; and then he sets it up an end, and it spreads open like a Fan. The Flesh and Legs of this Bird are quite black; and they smell very sweet. When thy fly wild up and down the Woods, they will call
Crockadore, Crockadore;
for which reason they go by that name.
The
Cassawaris
See Fig. XXXVI.
is about the bigness of a large
Virginia
Turkey. His Head is the same as a Turkeys; and he has a long stiff hairy Beard upon his Breast before, like a Turkey. He hath two great Legs, almost as thick as a Man's Wrist; with five great Claws upon each Foot: He has a high round Back; and instead of Feathers only long Hairs; and the same upon the Pinions of his Wings. It lays an Egg so big that it will hold a Pint. The Shell is pretty thick, spotted with green and white, and looks exactly like China-ware. I never tasted the Eggs, but the Bird it self is extraordinary good Victuals, as I have tried several times. It tastes very like a Turkey, but much stronger.
The
Birds of Paradice
are about the bigness of a Pidgeon. They are of various Colours, and are never found or seen alive; neither is it known from whence
Fig: 36.
A Cassawaris
Fig 37.
A Sea Porcupine
year
1705
they come. I have seen several of them here embalm'd with Spice, which preserves them from decay; And so embalm'd they are sent as Rarities to several parts of the World. It is related of these Birds, that when the Nutmegs are ripe, which is in the Months of
February
and
March,
they resort to the Places where they grow,
viz.
to
Banda
and this place, and eat off the outer-rind of the Nut: After which they fall down dead drunk, and an innumerable Company of Ants gather about them and feed upon them, and kill them.
Of Fish here are also several sorts; but the most noted is the
Sea-Porcupine:
See Fig. XXXVII.
It is in length about three foot, and two foot and a half round. It has a very large Eye; with two Fins on his Back, and one large one on each side near his Gills. It is very full of sharp-pointed Quills, (which are hard stiff Bones,) and from thence is called the
Sea-Porcupine.
Of Fruits here are Plantains, Bonanoes, Pine-Apples,
&c.
The Pine-Apple grows upon a low shrub, with prickly Leaves. They are so big, that they will commonly weigh two pound, and two pound and a half. When it is ripe, it is yellow and red without, and full of little Bunches; within it is yellow, and so juicy, that when you bite it, the Juice will run down your Chin and Clothes; and the Liquor
year
1705
is very cool and pleasant. Before they eat it, they commonly rub it well with Salt, and so let it lye for about an Hour, which takes away the rawness of it; then they wash it in fresh Water, and eat it. But One is sufficient for two or three People: For they are very apt to cause Feavers.
Here is also another sort of Fruit, called a
Mangoe.
It is about the bigness of our common Cucumber. The out-side, altho' ripe, looks green; and within, it is very yellow. It is a very delicious Fruit, when ripe; and has a fine fragrant smell. When they are green, they cut them in two pieces, which they pickle and send to most parts of the World. They grow upon a Tree about the bigness of our common Apple-tree.
This Island of
Amboyna
is sandy all round; but the Water is so deep, that there is no anchoring near it, but at the
Ley,
(which is at the West-end of the Island,) in forty fathom Water close to the shore; and in the common Harbour. This Harbour runs up a great way into the Island, and almost divides it into two Parts, so that they are almost two Islands, being only joined by a small Neck of Land, so narrow, that the
Malayans
often haul their Canoas over. At the entrance into the Harbour, on the East-side, there
year
1705
is a small Fortification, of about six Guns, and close to it is twenty fathom Water; And about a league further up, is the Harbour for Ships, where they lie under the Command of their great Castle, which ever since the Massacre of the
English
has been called the Castle
Victoria.
About two Miles further to the North East, within the Harbour, is the place where formerly our
English
Factory was settled; and near it is said to be the Hole, into which all the
English
were thrown, after they had been massacred by the
Dutch.
There were few of us now here, but expected the same Fate; and some of the Inhabitants were no way shy to tell us, that the Journal which was sent in the
Dutch
Ships that we met going out hence for
Batavia,
was our Protection. For they were sensible that upon those Ships arrival at
Batavia,
it would be presently known that a part of Captain
Dampier
's Company was arrived at
Amboyna;
and from thence it would spread all over
India;
and so they knew, if we fared otherwise than well, we should be enquired after.
A little to the Eastward of this Island, are several other small Islands; the most noted and biggest of which, are
Boangbessey
and
Hinomoa.
They lie East from
Amboyna
at a small distance. They are of an indifferent height, and not above a third
year
1705
part so big as the Island of
Amboyna.
They are both pretty well fortified, and produce store of Cloves: But the chief place for Nut-megs, is the Island of
Banda,
which also belongs to the
Dutch.
It lies in the Latitude of 4d. 20m. South, and bears from
Amboyna
E. S. E. distance 28 Leagues. The Island is said to be in form of a Man's Foot and Leg; and to be pretty well fortified: And as it has the preheminence for Nut-megs, so
Amboyna
has for Cloves.
The Governour of
Amboyna
is reckoned the Chief and Head-Governour of all these Spice-Islands, even to
Ternate
and
Tidore,
which are also Spice-Islands in possession of the
Dutch,
and lie about forty Miles to the Northward of the Equator.
Whilst we were at this Island of
Amboyna,
we were so much troubled with Moskitoes, (which are a sort of Gnats,) that every Night we were forced to put our selves in a Bag, before we could go to sleep; for otherwise these Creatures would so bite us, that there was no sleeping: And whereever they bite, they commonly raised a red Blister, almost as broad as a Silver-penny: This would itch very much, and many could not forbear scratching themselves so, as to cause Inflammations, which sometimes are the cause of the loss of a Limb.
year
1705
During our stay here, we had the liberty of a broad paved Yard, about sixty Yards square; but by no means would they let us go out into the Town; being very jealous of us, and desirous to prevent (as much as they could) our knowing their Strength, or making any other Discoveries which they thought might be prejudicial to them.
Here we remained from the 31st of
May
to the 14th of
September
1705. At which time there being three of the Companies Sloops ready to sail hence, laden with Cloves; twenty five of our Men were sent away with them for
Batavia;
and we were ten of us left behind, who were (as they said) to go in another Vessel, which was almost ready to sail.
It was very observable, that all the time of our being here, none of us fell sick or died. For this was the S. E. or bad Monsoon, which begins in the latter end of
April,
and lasts till the latter end of
September;
Most of which time, we had hard Storms of Wind; with much Thunder, Lightning and Rain; and the Weather so very cloudy, that for six or seven Days together we saw not the Sun. The greatest violence of this Weather, is in
June, July
and
August;
and then it abates, and at the latter end of
September
quite breaks up; And then begins the westerly
year
1705
Monsoon, which is fine fair clear Weather, with gentle Gales, variable, but mostly inclining to be Westerly. This is counted the healthy Monsoon; and the other the sickly one: For in the Easterly Monsoon the Inhabitants are very much troubled with Feavers and Fluxes, of which a great many die; as vast numbers did whilst we were here; especially of the
Malayan
Inhabitants, who are more apt to die of them than the
Dutch;
but I suppose the reason is, because they are not so well provided with Doctors and Medicines as the
Dutch;
neither are they so well looked after. They admired at us, seeing we were fed with such bad Diet, and but newly come from Sea very weak, that we could bear up under so many Hardships and Inconveniences; and it used to be their common Saying,
That nothing of Hardships or sickly Places would kill the
English,
so long as they had any Victuals to eat.
The Reason why I have given so little account of the Winds and Seasons of the Year in this whole Voyage, is because these things are so well described in Capt.
Dampier
's 2d Volume; But he not having spoken much of these
Moluccoes
or Spice-Islands, I have therefore endeavoured to give the more particular Account of them.
year
1705
On the 27th of
September
a
Malayan
Man was brought in here at
Amboyna
to the State-house to be tryed for his Life. He was accused by his own Wife, for murthering his Slave. The Slave had been dead about six Months, and she had concealed it; but happening to fall out with her Husband, she went before the Fiscal in the Heat of her Anger, and declared it. So her Husband was put in Prison, and the Corps of the dead Slave dug up: But it being consumed and rotten, no Marks of any Violence could be perceived upon it; and it was generally believed that the Man's Wife accused him wrongfully. He was upon his Tryal when the Earthquake happened. At which time I observed, that it is a common Error to suppose that during an Earthquake it is always calm. For we had a fine fresh Gale at S. S. W. both Days on which the Earthquake happened. This Earthquake made all the Court break up, being in fear the House would fall on their Heads. So the Man was committed to Prison again; and the next Day, being
September
the 28th, about 11 at Noon, the Court being set again, the Man was again brought to his Tryal; when in about a quarter of an Hour, when his Wife was in her greatest violence against him, the Earth shook very much again, and caused them all to break up
year
1705
the second time. The same Day my self with four more of our Men, were sent on board a
China
-Sloop for
Batavia.
How they proceeded further with the Man, I know not; But many thought it a great token of his Innocency, that the two several Earthquakes happened the two several Days just at the time of his Trial. The other five of our Men, which were left behind, they promised should be sent after us in a short time; but we never heard of them after.
CHAP. X.
Departure from
Amboyna,
and arrival at the Island of
Lancas.
The Islands
Cabeses.
The Island
Bouton.
The Island
Celebes.
The Passages between
Celebes
and
Zalayer.
The Island
Zalayer.
A very large and dangerous Shole, with an Observation of a great Fault in the
Dutch
Maps relating to it. Arrival at
Batavia.
Description of part of the Coast of
Java. Batavia
described. The Tamarind-tree. The
Mangastan.
The
Rumbostan.
Departure from
Batavia
for
England. Bantam.
Streights of
Sunda.
Princes Island. The Cape of
Good Hope. Hottentotes.
Their beastly manner of Living. Their Worship. The Difficulty of civilizing them. Their Houses,
&c.
Wild Beasts, how killed by the
Dutch.
The Product of the Country. Beasts. Fowls. Fishes. News from the
year
1705
Men that had left the
A.
in the Gulf of
Nicoya.
Departure from the Cape for
England. Penguin
Island and Birds. An Earthquake felt at Sea. Great Difference of Cold in 60 d. of Northern, and 60 d. of Southern Latitude; and the Reason of it. The Islands of
Faro.
Return Home.
FROM
Amboyna
we steered away S. W. by W. till we came to the Island
Lancas;
and in our way passed by the Island
Amblow,
of which I have already spoken. The Island
Lancas
is a short low Island, on which is store of Wood. It is not inhabited; and all round it, for a good distance, is said to be shole Water. It lies in the Latitude of 5 d. 27 m. South; and I made Meridian distance ftom
Amboyna
155 Miles, or 2 d. 35. m. West.
From hence we steered W. by N. for a small time, till we came up with the two Islands
Cabeses.
Where it falling calm, we sent our Boat ashore to the Eastermost of them, and cut down some Hundreds of Coco-nuts, which we carried on board. This was also a low Island, not inhabited, but all round full of Coco-nut-trees, which are planted here on purpose for the use
year
1705
of such
Dutch
Ships and Vessels as pass by here for
Batavia.
For it is a great Rarity to see any
European
shipping here, besides the
Dutch.
Off this Island we met our Bark, which had brought us from
America
to
Amboyna.
The
Dutch
after they had taken her from us, fitted her up, put a Mizen-Mast in, and made a very good Vessel of her. This Island lies in the Latitude of 5 d. 23 m. South; and nearly W. by N. from the Island
Lancas,
distance about 45 Miles: It is shole two Miles from the Shore. To the S. W. of this, is the other Island of
Cabeses,
which is a pretty high Island, and upon it the
Dutch
always keep six Soldiers and a Corporal, who two or three times a Year go round the Island to see that no Cloves be planted; and if there be, they cut them down and burn them, for fear least any other Nation should take it from them; which if they should, I am apt to believe
Amboyna
would be of little use to them; Cloves being the only Product valuable upon it.
From hence we passed by the South-part of the Island
Bouton,
which lies in the Latitude of 5 d. 45 m. South. It is a pretty large Island, taking up above a degree and half in Latitude.
From hence we steered to the Westward, and passed between the Island
Celebes
and the Island
Zalayer.
The South-part
year
1705
of the Island
Celebes,
is very high Land. It is very well inhabited, and is a very large Island, taking up seven degrees in Latitude. At the South-end of this Island, on the West-side, the
Dutch
have a Factory, called
Macasser,
where they have a Fort of about seventy Guns, mann'd with six or seven hundred
Dutch
Soldiers. The chief Product of the Place, is Rice; with which they supply all or most of their Eastern Islands. Here are also said to be several Gold-mines, of which the
Dutch
are not yet masters. For the Inhabitants are often at War with the
Dutch,
and pretty well defend those Places.
Between the South-end of the Island
Celebes,
and the Island
Zalayer,
are three small low Islands; and the best Passage, is between that which lies next to the Island
Zalayer,
and a little small one which lies to the Northward of That. This is called the second Passage from
Zalayer,
and is accounted the best; For in the first Passage from
Zalayer,
are many sholes, but in this second it is deep Water: The third and fourth are also deep; but if you go through with the Sea-wind, you will be so nigh the shore of
Celebes,
that you must be forced to anchor till the Land-wind comes: Wherefore the second is always accounted the best Passage; and most Ships, rather than go through the first,
year
1705
third or fourth, will lie a whole Day to go through the second; which they do as commonly in the Night, as in the Day, there being no danger.
The Island
Zalayer
is of a moderate height. It is inhabited by
Malayans,
and planted all round with Coco-nut-trees. The Inhabitants are forced yearly to send store of Oil and Match to the
Dutch
at
Macasser,
as a Tribute.
From hence we steered W. by N. (having had the Wind in the Eastern Quarter ever since we left
Amboyna,
) till we had passed a dangerous shole called the
Brill;
and then we haul'd up S. W. and in the Night saw a small Island just by us; which finding we could not weather, we tack'd and stood the other way till Day-light; and then finding our selves to the Southward of the said Island, we tackt and stood to the South-westward; and soon after saw two other small low Islands, bearing from the North to the North-west. We could see the Ground very plain for about two Miles; and never had above six, or under five fathom Water, though it looked as if there was not above two fathom. We came over this shole about a league to the Southward of the said two small Islands; and this is accounted the narrowest part of the Shole; for further to the Southward it is five or six Leagues
year
1705
over: But There also there is no danger, because you have very even Soundings, as five or six fathom, seldom over or under. But to the Northward of these two Islands, it is very dangerous; it being all very foul rocky Ground, and in some places not above four or five foot Water. Therefore be sure to go to the Southward of these Islands, and you will be safe: Although the
Dutch
in most of their Maps, (unless in such as they give to their own People,) have laid down the Dangers to the Southward, which should have been laid down to the Northward of the two Islands: And the safe sholes, which we and they always go over, they have laid down to the Northward of the two Islands; whereas we and they also went over to the Southward of them. We had a Draught on board belonging to the Captain of the Vessel, which showed all this very exactly as we found it. I compared it with several others which were on board, and found a great deal of Difference. I asked the Captain the reason of their Difference; and he told me that the
Hollanders
knew all the sholes and dangerous places hereabouts very well; but did not desire that any Body else should know them. So that if any Foreigner should come into these Parts amongst these sholes, and sail by their
year
1705
Draughts; they, thinking all safe, might unexpectedly be amongst Rocks and Sholes, where they would certainly lose their Ship; as we had done, if we had sailed by the common Draughts. It being the
Dutch
Policy, to keep all Ships belonging to the
English
or
French,
as far off these Eastern Islands, as they can; or at least if any do chance to come amongst them, and happen into their Hands, as we did; to take care to send them away from among them, and to let them know as little of them as may be.
On the 16th of
October
we passed by the
Dutch
Factory, called
Rambang;
and on the 21st, arrived in the Harbour of
Batavia.
Here we were sent ashore to the Bomb-Key, to the rest of our Men, who had been sent hither before, and were not yet cleared. And soon after, the Major of the Castle was sent to us, and desired we would send to the General by him an Account of our Losses and Damages, which we received by our being taken at
Amboyna;
and that we should be satisfied upon all Accounts, both as to our lost Things, loss of Time, and Imprisonment. Accordingly we each of us drew up an account of our Losses, and sent it by the Major to the General, who return'd us answer, that very speedily we should have Satisfaction and our Freedom. On the
year
1705
27th of
October
we were all sent for to the Fort, and most of our ready Money was return'd to us again; but for our Goods, loss of Time, and Imprisonment, we could have no Satisfaction. Only the General told us he had given us all that the Governour of
Amboyna
had sent to him; and that if there was any thing more, he knew nothing of it; and that we were now at our liberty to go where we pleased. We desired, that since our Vessel was taken from us by the Company, (of which He was the Head,) he would be pleased to take care to find us some Ship in which we might return home; which he promised he would. We were forced to be content; and went and took Lodgings in the Town, till we could meet with an opportunity of returning home.
And now being at a stop here for a while, I shall give some Description of this North Coast of
Java.
The Island is in length East and West about ten Degrees. And from the East end of
Madura
to this Port of
Batavia,
you have the common Land and Sea Winds. In the Easterly Monsoon the Land-winds are at South East, sometimes more Southerly; and the Sea-winds at North East, fine pleasant Gales. This Easterly Monsoon is accounted the good Monsoon; it being fine fair clear Weather, beginning in
April,
and
year
1705
ending in
October:
But the Westerly Monsoon is called the bad Monsoon, being rainy and blustering weather, with much Thunder and Lighting, especially in
December, January
and
February.
This bad Monsoon begins in
November,
and ends in
March,
or the beginning of
April.
In it the Land-winds are at West South West and South West, and the Sea-winds at North West and West North West. The Anchor-ground all along the North side of
Java,
from the Island
Madura
to
Batavia,
is brave oazey Ground, and clear of Rocks. The principal places on this side of the Island, are
Batavia, Bantam, Japara, Samarang, Surabon, Taggall,
the
Quale
and
Rambang.
All these places are settled by the
Dutch.
They afford Rice, with which they supply all their Out-factories hereabouts; as also very good Plank, to build Shipping with. The chief place of building is
Rambang;
where the Freemen go to build their small Vessels, as Sloops and Brigantines. Also several Ships of five, six, or seven hundred Tuns, lade with Timber at
Rambang,
the
Quale, Japara,
&c. And each Ship, when full, taketh a great Raft of the largest of the Timber in a tow to
Batavia.
Some of these Rafts are said to be thirty foot square, and to draw twenty-two foot water. There are commonly fix of these
year
1705
Ships, which thus lade with Timber; and they commonly make four Voyages in the good Monsoon: For in the bad, they cannot do any thing. All this Timber is commonly landed upon a small Island between four and five leagues from
Batavia;
where the Ship-Carpenters are usually kept at work; nay, they are said to be never out of Employ. They are about two hundred in number; and the Island is called
Ʋ nrest;
a very fit name for it; for here is said to be no rest for an idle person. The
Dutch
careen all their Ships here; and it is very well fortified, being all round a Bed of Guns.
Batavia
is the chief place the
Dutch
have in
India;
receiving by Shipping, the Product of
India, Japan,
and
China.
It is inhabited by several sorts of people; as
Dutch, Portuguese, Chinese, Persians
and
Negroes;
but the
Malayans
are the Natives. The
Dutch
are Masters of the place, and have a very fine large Town, in which are seven Churches,
Dutch, Portuguese, Malays
and
Chinese;
with several very fine spacious Houses, built after the European manner. The Town is all walled, and moted round; and upon the Walls are planted store of Cannon. In the middle of the Town, in a great square place, is a very sine and handsome Statehouse, where all Affairs are transacted.
year
1705
The Town, with all the Fortifications, is commonly governed by one of the States of
Holland,
who has the Title of General of
India;
and all other Governours are subordinate to him. The Inhabitants here, do not care how often they change their General; For at the coming of a new one, all Prisoners are released, excepting such as have committed murther. He has twelve to assist him, who have always the Title of
Raids
or Lords of
India.
These are such as have been formerly chief Governours in several places in
India;
as of
Ceylon, Amboyna, Malacca,
&c. The Town is divided by Rivers; over which, almost in every Street, there are Bridges laid, and Bombs to haul across; which let no Boats go in or out after Sun-set.
At this place grows the
Tamarind-Tree,
whose Leaves shut and open according to the rising and setting of the Sun. And much like this is another Tree, that buds in the night; and as the Sun rises, blooms a Flower almost like a Lilly; So that the Tree will be full of these Flowers by noon; and when the Sun is down, within half an hour, the Flowers will be all fallen off, and not one left upon the Tree. This I have seen daily.
The chief Product of the place is Pepper; of which the
Dutch
yearly export
year
1705
great Quantities. Here are also some few Diamonds, and other rich Gems.
Of Fruits, here are Plantains, Bonanoes, Oranges, Lemons, Pomegranates, Mangastans and Rumbostans.
The
Mangastan,
is about the bigness of a Golden-Runnet. It is quite round, and looks like a small Pomegranate. The outside Rind is like that of a Pomegranate, only of a darker colour; But the inside of the Rind is of a fine red. Within this Rind is the Fruit, which is of a fine white, and lies in Cloves almost like Garlick. There are commonly four or five of these Cloves in each; and they are very soft and juicy. Within the Cloves is a small black Stone. We commonly suck the Fruit from the Stone: And the Fruit is very delicious; the Stone we throw away, being very bitter if chewed.
The
Rumbostan
is about the bigness of a Walnut, when the green Peel is off. It is also much of the shape of the Walnut; And hath a prety thick tough outer-rind, which is of a deep red, and is full of little knobs of the same colour. Within the Rind is the Fruit, which is quite white, and looks almost like a Jelly: And within the Fruit is a large Stone. It is very delicate Fruit; and though a Man eat never so much, yet it never does him any harm; provided he swallows the Stones
year
1705
as well as the Fruit: But otherways they are said to cause Fevers.
But this place is so well known to most Europeans, that it needs no further Description.
On the second of
December,
all of us which had a desire to return to
England,
were ordered on board the
Dutch East-India
Fleet; And the next Day the whole Fleet, consisting of about twelve Sail, weigh'd anchor and left
Batavia.
On the 8th we arrived at
Bantam;
where we wooded, water'd, and refresh'd our selves; and took in store of Provisions, as Beeves, Hogs,
&c.
for our supply during our Passage to the Cape. This is also a
Dutch
Factory; and the chief Trading is for Pepper. On the 11th we weigh'd from
Bantam.
The Westerly Monsoon was set in pretty hard against us; But however, having a strong Current setting to the Wind-ward, we made shift to turn against the Monsoon: Yet it commonly blowing very hard at Night, whilst we were in the Streights of
Sunda,
we used to run in under the
Java
shore, and there anchor till the next Morning. All through these Streights the Coast is good and bold; and though there be many Sholes, yet the Soundings are good even in the most dangerous place, which is between
Bantam
and
Batavia:
But no Man will venture to
year
1705
sail by Night, although it sholeth gradually near any Bank, and the Anchor-ground is very good, that Ships can stop when they please if they are plying to Windward.
On the 13th we came up with a small high Island, called
Princes Island.
It lies at the West-end of this Streight of
Sunda;
And from hence we took our departure for the
Cape of Good Hope.
We had nothing material happen'd to us, in this our Passage: And we arrived at the Cape on the 3d of
February
1705/6; having been just two Months in our passage: And here we found four Ships belonging to our
East-India
Company.
The
Cape of good Hope,
is the Southermost part of
Africa,
situated four Degrees and a half within the Southern Temperate Zone. Near it, is the Table Bay; a very healthy place, and producing all Necessaries for the Life of Man. The
Dutch
are Masters of this place, and have here a Fort of about fifty Guns, which they were now about moting round. Half a mile to the Westward of the said Fort, they have belonging to them a pretty Town, consisting of about a hundred and fifty
Dutch
Houses, and a small Church, situated under a very high Mountain, called the
Table-Land.
The Town and Fort are under a Governour and a Fiscal, (who, as I have said before, is in the nature of a Judge.)
year
1705
The Natives of this Place, are a tawny swarthy sort of People, who call themselves
Hodmandods;
and are certainly the next to Beasts, of any People on the face of the Earth. Both Men and Women are of a middle Stature, with small Noses, little Mouths and Eyes, and an oval Face. They have a woolly Head of Hair, like the
Guinea
or
Angola-Negroes.
Both Men and Women cover themselves with only two raw Sheeps Hides, just as they come from the Sheeps Back. In the Day they wear them like a Mantle, over their Shoulders; and in the Night when they sleep, one of them serves to lie under them instead of a Bed, the other to cover them. And thus like Beasts they lie, Men, Women, and Children, the whole Family together. They smear or grease themselves very much; which makes them stink abominably; And the thicker they are with Grease, the more they are admired by one another. The Women to distinguish themselves from the Men, wear dried Thongs of the Sheeps Skins, rouled round their Legs from the Ankle to the Knee; which makes their Legs seem as big as Posts; and they look'd like a Rowl of Tobacco. They also wear a long Cap (made of the same) which goes up tapering like a Piramid. But their clothing is the same as the Mens,
viz.
two raw Sheeps
year
1705
Skins. They are a very shameless ignorant People, and as far as I could perceive, without any Laws or Government of their own; only each Family is subject to the eldest of their Family. Both Men and Women are great Lovers of Tobacco; and for two or three ounces of it, a Man will not stick to prostitute his Wife to any
European
whatsoever. The Men are not at all jealous, and care not how many
Europeans
lye with their Wives; yet they will beat their Wives severely, if they know them to lye with any of their own Nation besides themselves. They are a People that will eat any soul or nasty thing. For if the
Dutch
kill a Beeve or a Sheep, they will beg the Guts, out of which they squeeze the Dung; and without washing or any cleaning at all, cut them into small peices, and lay them upon the fire; and assoon as they are hot through, take them off and eat them.
Their Children, when they are young, are something inclining to be White; and were it not for their nasty way of greazing them, they would make likely Men and Women: For they are most of them very well featured. The
Dutch
did formerly what they could, to bring them to the knowledge of the true God, and to leave their nasty way of living:
year
1705
but never could prevail with them; they still desiring rather to live like Beasts; Worship they seem to have none; except at the full Moons; and then they Dance and Sing all or most of the Night; and the brighter the Moon is, the more is their Mirth; For then they think the Moon, which seems to be their God, is well-pleased with them: But if the Moon chance to be obscured with Clouds, then they seem much dejected, and fancy their God is angry with them.
I was told a story by the Person with whom I lodged here, that some years since, the
Dutch
sent two of these
Hodmandod
Men to
Holland;
where they were very well cloathed, had a good maintenance allowed them, and for the space of four years were sent up and down to see the several parts of
Holland
and other Countries adjacent: The
Dutch
thinking this would be a means of bringing them to a more civilized way of living. But it proved ineffectual: For the two
Hodmandods
at their return, as soon as they got ashore, tore off all their Cloaths, and returned to their old beastly way of living.
year
1705
These people have low Matt Houses, in form of a Bee-hive; The Door not above three foot high; and the highest part of the House about six foot high: In the middle of which, in cold weather, they make a Fire; and the whole Family, Men, Women and Children, and their Dogs, all lie round it; where they sleep as sound, as other people do in their Beds of Down. Yet these people are as healthy, and as free from Pains and Aches, as any on the whole Continent of
Africa.
Their Houshold-goods are seldom any thing more than two earthen Pots; one broken, the other whole; The broken Pot serves them instead of a Frying-pan, and the other to boil their Victuals in.
They are no way ingenious, neither do they follow any Trades. The most of their delight is in looking after Flocks of Sheep; and in this the
Dutch
often employ them. If one of them does half an hours work for a
Dutchman
or any
European,
he will demand a Doublekey; which is a piece of Money that goes for Two-pence; And if there be occasion to work him from morning till night, he will demand no more.
The Land hereabouts is very mountainous, and the Mountains are most of them very barren, producing only a few small shrubby Bushes. And within the Country
year
1705
are abundance of Lions, Tygers, wild Elephants,
&c.
These wild Beasts the
Dutch
kill after this manner: They make a pretty large Circle, upon the edge of which they fix five, six, seven, or eight Posts, about eighteen or twenty foot from each other: Upon each of these Posts is a Musket made fast, the Muzles of which are all placed so as to point to the Center of the Circle: The Muskets are well loaded; and from the Trigger of each Musket is a small Line, reaching to the Center of the said Circle, and there fastned to a piece of raw Flesh; which when a wild Beast seizes upon, most or all of the Muskets go off, and seldom fail to kill him. Any one that kills a Lion, is paid by the Publick fifty-two Guilders, which amounts to four Pound six Shillings and eight Pence; And for killing a Tyger he has a Reward of twenty-four Guilders or forty Shillings. There was a
Scotchman
whilst we were here, who killed four Lions, three Tygers, and three wild Elephants; for which he had his Reward, according to the aforesaid Proportion.
This place produces several sorts of Fruits, both common and not common to us in
Europe;
as Pomgranates, Water-melons, Chesnuts, with some few Plantains and Bonanoes, and store of very good Grapes, of which the
Dutch
make a very
year
1705
pretty and pleasant Wine in great quantities, which by Retale is commonly sold at eight Pence a Quart. It also produces abundance of Garden-Fruit, which is very refreshing to those that arrive here sick of the Scurvy.
Of Beasts here are great store;
to wit,
Lions, Tygers, Elephants,
&c.
which all run wild up and down the Country; but near the Towns they are seldom seen: Here are also abundance of Sheep, very large, and I think as good Meat as ever I eat.
Of Fowls here are also several sorts; But the most noted, as I think, is the Ostridge; which is a very large Fowl. The Bird it self is little valuable, but for its Feathers, which are sent as Rarities to several parts of the World. Their Eggs are very good Meat, as I have experienc'd many times. That these Birds do feed upon Iron, Stones, or any thing that chances to be near them, is fabulous; but, like a great many other Fowls, they peck up small Stones, which only serve to digest their proper Food. They are of several colours, as black, white,
&c.
Of the Sea Inhabitants, the most noted is the Seal, or, as the
Dutch
call it, the
Sea-Hound.
They are the same as those before spoken of at the Island
Juan Fernandoes,
only the Furr of these is not so fine.
year
1705
In this Harbour, on the South side, are two great high noted Mountains; the one called the Table-Land, which is pretty plain and even at the top; and the other called the Sugar-loaf, from its shape. At the top of this Sugar-loaf the
Dutch
have a small House, and four Guns mounted: Here they always keep a Look-out, and at the approach of any Ship or Ships, hoist a Flag, and fire as many Guns as they see Ships, to give notice to those at the Town.
During our stay here, there arrived some more
East-India
homeward bound Ships, both
Dutch
and
English;
also here we met with some of our Men that had left us in the Gulf of
Nicoya,
and went away with our Chief-mate. They gave us an account, that in a Week after they left us, they went into the Port of
Ria Leon
on the Coast of
Mexico,
where they took two
Spanish
Ships at Anchor; one of which, being very old and wormeaten, they immediately sunk. Which being done, they sent two of their Prisoners ashore with a Letter to the Governour, in which they demanded 10000 Dollars for the ransome of the other Prize. The Governour sent them word, that the Owners of the said Ship were poor, and that the Town was also poor, so that they could not give so much;
year
1705
but if 4000 Dollars would satisfie them, he would send them aboard the next day, upon our Mens word, that upon the receipt of the Money they would deliver up the said Prize. They answered, that they wanted Provisions and Water; and therefore whatever was found in the said Prize either Eatable or Drinkable, should not be comprehended in the Bargain. To this the Governour readily agreed, and sent the Money. And assoon as the Provisions could be got out of her, she was according to agreement delivered up. From thence our Men went to the Gulf of
Salinas,
and haul'd their Vessel ashore, and clean'd and refitted her. And from thence, with all the haste they could, they proceeded on their Voyage for
India;
and in fifty four Days reached the
Philippine
Islands, having kept all the way in the Latitude of 18 d. North. Amongst the
Philippine
Islands a Canoa came off to them with a
Spanish
Priest in her: Him they detained and sent the Canoa ashore for some fresh Provisions, as a ransom for the said Priest; which accordingly was sent to them, and they released the priest. From thence they went to the Island
Pulo Condore;
but sinding the
English
all cut off, they went for
Mocoa
in
China,
where after they had given an account from whence they came,
year
1705
they every one dispersed, some for
Goa
to serve the
Portugueze,
some to
Benjar
to the
English,
and others to serve the
Mogull.
On the 24th of
March,
we having refitted our Ships, and refreshed our Men, and taken in store of fresh Provisions; and there being a fresh Gale of Wind at S. E; we all weigh'd from the Cape, and went out between
Penguin
Island and the Main Land; having the Main on the Star-board-side, and the Island
Penguin
on the Lar-board. This is a pretty low sandy Island. In the middle of which, upon the highest part of it, they have a few Guns mounted, and near them a Flag-staff, on which at the approach of any Ship they hoist a Flag, and fire a Gun, to give notice to the Town. This Island takes its name from a vast number of Birds, called
Penguins,
which commonly resort near it. These Birds are about the bigness of a Wild Duck: They do not fly, but flutter, having no Wings, but only stumps like young Ducks; and these stumps are instead of Fins to them when they are in the Water. They have a sharp Bill, but Feet like a Duck; and their Flesh is but mean Victuals.
We were now twenty-four Sail of us,
viz.
nine
English
and fifteen
Dutch;
and the Gale continuing, soon carried us into
year
1706
the true Trade. We met with nothing material till the 10th of
April;
year
1706
when two of the
English
Ships sailing very heavy, fell a stern, and lost our Company. They put into St.
Hellena;
and, as we hear since, were taken out of the Road by the
French.
On the 11th we had twenty five Hogs killed, for the Ships Company; and the Commodore ordered a Hog to a Mess, that is, to every seven Men, to dispose of as we pleased, besides our daily Allowance; so that we had more Victuals than we could tell what to do with.
On the 15th, a Man being barbarously murthered on Board the
Dutch
Vice-Admiral, the Murtherer was brought on Board our Ship and tryed for his Life, and the same day condemned to dye. He owned he did the Murther, and desired the favour of the Court that he might chuse his Death; which was granted; and he chose to be Shot, which the next day was accordingly done; all the Fleet lying by till his Death, and then we all made sail again.
On the 17th we saw the Island of
Ascension;
but did not touch here for Turtle, although it was their laying time; the reason was, because we were so well provided with Provisions at the Cape, that we had no occasion for more; and
year
1706
the
English
Ships being willing to keep us Company, they also did not touch here.
On the 19th we had fine fair Weather, with a fresh Gale at South East. About eleven this morning happened a great Earth-quake. At first it seemed as if the Ship run along upon the Ground: So we heaved out a Lead on each side with two hundred fathom of Line, but found no ground. The whole Fleet felt the Shock at the same time; so that for half a quarter of an hour there was nothing but making of Signals and firing of Guns. We then reckoned the Island of
Ascension
to bear South East, distant about forty Leagues.
Hence we steered away to the North Westward, and on the 14th of
June
saw four Sail of
French
Privateers. They lay a while and viewed us, but did not think fit to come amongst us.
On the 30th we found our selves in the Latitude of 62 d. 40 m. North, which was the furthest to the Northward that I ever was. And here I could not but take notice of the difference of cold in this place and in 60 d. of Southern Latitude. For there we had continual Showers of Snow or Hail, and the weather very cold; whereas here on the contrary we found the Weather very fair and moderate.
year
1706
The reason of which, I suppose, was this. When we were to the Southward, we were always pretty near to the Main of
America,
having it to the West of us. Likewise when we were to the Northward, we were always pretty near the main Land of
Europe,
having it to the East of us. Now being near the Land, we always account the Land-winds to be the coldest, and the Sea-winds the warmest. Thus the North Easterly Wind is accounted the coldest Wind we have in
England, Holland,
&c. But in the same Latitude North, near the Coast of
America,
the North West Wind is commonly accounted the coldest. And in the same height of South Latitude on the Coast of
America,
the South West Wind is the coldest: As near the Cape of good Hopo the South East Wind is the coldest. Now the Westerly Winds at such a height both in North and South Latitude, having generally the Predominancy over the Easterly, very much alter the degrees of the heat or cold of the Weather. For which reason, in the South part of
America
the Westerly Wind caused cold Weather; but to the Northward the Westerly wind caused warm Weather. And as the Easterly-wind, being near the
European
shore, is the coldest; so, being near the
American
shore in the same height of Southern
year
1706
Latitude, the Westerly-wind is the coldest.
On the 3d of
July,
in the Evening, we saw the Islands of
Faro,
bearing East by North, distant about eleven or twelve Leagues. We also sounded, but had no ground at two hundred and ten fathom. At twelve at Night we had ground at eighty-five fathom; and at three the next morning, at seventy fathom. On the 4th of
July
at noon the opening of the two Islands of
Faro
bore South East, distant about eight Leagues. We then steering North East and ground at eighty fathom, small pieces of broken Shells. All last Night we kept firing a Gun once every half hour, to give notice to the Cruizers, whom we expected to meet here.
On the 5th, according to our Expectations, we met with our Convoy, which had been cruizing for us. They consisted of eight
Dutch
Men of War, four Victualers, and three of the Companies Privateers. After Mutual Salutations we proceeded to the South Eastward, being all bound for
Amsterdam.
And on the 15th of
July,
we all arrived safely in the
Texel;
and on the 17th got to
Amsterdam,
where we continued a while. After which, my self and the rest of our Company went to see the several parts of
Holland,
as
Delf, Rotterdam,
the
Hague,
&c.
year
1706
And on the 26th of
August,
1706. after many Dangers both by Sea and Land, we happily arrived in
England;
being but eighteen out of one hundred and eighty-three which went out with us.
FINIS.
INDEX.
A.
ACapulco
P. and T.
p. 95
Acapulco
-Ship. See
Manila
-Ship.
Acary
P.
193
Ahoreados
Rocks
169
Ajuta
Point
105
Albicore,
F. described
85
Alcatrazes
I.
99
Alima
M.
92
Alligators described,
51.
The manner of catching them
52
Amblow
I.
248
Amboyna
I.
253.
its Inhabitants,
254.
subject to Earthquakes,
255, 273.
its Government,
255.
The Hill-
Malayans
at War with the Dutch,
256.
its Spice-trees,
260.
Gold,
263.
its Governour visiting all the Spice-Islands,
264.
its Birds,
265.
Fishes,
267.
Fruits,
267.
Harbour,
268.
Amilpas
M.
111
Anabaces
R.
112
Ancon
of
Sardinas 157
Anegadas
M.
153
Angels
P.
p. 101, 103
St
Anns
I.
9, 10
St
Antonio
B.
152
Apottete
P.
161
Aqua dulce
R.
100
Arena
Point
172
Arica
P.
29, 196
Ariquipa
P.
194
Arracife
I.
230
Atico
M.
193
Attiquipa
P. & M.
193
Attitlan
M.
77
B.
Baciabo
B.
163
Baldivia.
See
Valdivia
Bamba
M.
105
Barancis
R.
185
Batavia
described
284
Bernall
M.
78, 109
Biobio
R.
211
Bird,
a strange one, taken near the
Sibbel de Wards 14
Cape
Blanco
of
Mexico 75, 128
Cape
Blanco
of
Peru 173
Boang-bessey
I.
269
Bombacho
M.
126
Bonanoe-Tree described
62
Bonaventura
B. and R.
154
Bonetoe, F. described
232
Bonoa
I.
241
Booby, B. described.
10
Bouton
I.
277
Brandy, the effect it had upon an Indian
227
Buajes
R.
206
Buffadore
Rock
104
Burica
Point
135
C.
Cabbage-Tree described
18
Cabeses
I.
276
Caldera
B.
65, 129
Caletta
P.
102
Callau
I.
187, 189
Calms extraordinary, where
197
Camana 194
Caneo
I.
64, 133
Canero
I.
211
Capalita
R.
105
Cape of good Hope described
288
Caracas
B.
164
Carrion-Crow described
70
The Cassawaris, Bird, described
266
Cat-Fish described
108
Cavales
P
193
Cauca
M.
96
The Ceawau, Fish, described
121
Cecorillo
M.
98
Celebes
I.
277
Ceram
I.
241
Chacola 197
Chametl
P.
83
Chametly
I.
92
Chancay
P.
186
Chandy P. 171
Charapoto
R.
164
Chasipi 81
Cheapo
R.
150
Chepelio
I.
149
Chequetan
M.
95
Chicama
B.
180
Chilca
P.
189
Chili;
its Coast described,
199.
abounds with Gold, as
Peru
does with Silver
205
Chili
(River of)
205
Chinca
P.
190
Chira
I.
69, 131
Chirique
R.
135
Choape
M.
202
Chocolate
89
Chule
P.
194
St Clara
I.
171
Santa Clara
P.
152
Clintera
Rocks
204
Clove, the Tree and Fruit described.
260
Coaque
R.
162
Coco nut Tree described
60, 89
Cogimes
R.
162
Colan
R.
174
Colanche
R.
169
Cold, the great difference of it in 60 d. North and 60 d. South Latitude, with the reason of it
299, &c.
Colima
M.
94, 81
Conception
(Port of)
209
Conchagua
I.
118, 219.
Difficulty of getting Water there
219
Concon
P. and R.
204
Copiapo
P.
27, 199
Coquimbo
P.
201
Cape
Corrientes
of
Peru 39, 154
Cape
Corrientes
of
Mexico 91
Cosma
P.
182
The Crockadore, Bird, described
265
D.
Captain
Dampier.
Mistakes in his Voyages corrected,
13, 52, 102.
He and Captain
Stradling
part Company,
47.
is left by his Chief-Mate and twenty-one of his Men,
68.
is left by part of his Company in the Gulf of
Amapalla. 86, 221
Desapan
P.
93
Destata
I. and R.
105
Dolphin described
7
E.
Earthquakes,
255, 273.
felt at Sea,
299
El-Obispo
T.
105
Encommendi
M.
109
Escondedo
P.
100
Estapa 94
Estrella
R.
133
Etem
M.
178
F.
Fight with a French Man of War
25.
with a Spanish Man of War
55.
with the
Manila
-Ship
84
Flying-Fish
7, 9
Cape St
Francisco 53, 160.
The Bounds beyond which the Bad Weather and the Worms seldom reach Southward
161
French Pirats, how they subsisted nine or ten Months at
John Fernandoes, 20.
The French make profitable Voyages in the South Sea
147
G.
Gajones
C.
128
St
Gallan
M.
191
Gallera
R.
100
Gallera
Point
57, 98, 160
Gallera
I.
40
Gallo
I. described
33, 155
Garachina
Point
40
Don
Garcia 97
St George
M.
198
Gillolo
I.
238
Gold, how a Spanish Fryar sought for it in a burning Mountain,
124.
abounds in
Chili,
as Silver does in
Peru, 205.
melted and poured down a Spanish Governour'
Throat,
214.
found at
Amboyna 26
Gorgonia
I.
154
Gorgonilla
Rock
36
Govanadore
I.
139
Govanadore
P.
203
Granada
M.
126
Le Grand
I. described
11
Guaiabas
I.
69
Guam
I.
229
Guanapi M. 181
The Guano described
72
Guanoes
I.
141
Guara
P.
185
Guano
M.
140, 190
Guarmey
P.
184
Guasco
P.
200
Guatimala
M.
75, 113
Guatulco
P.
103
Guera,
the highest Land in the World
211
A Guernzey Man escapes from the Spaniards
37
Guiaquil
B. and T.
54, 172
Guinea.
See
New-Guinea.
H.
St
Hellena
Town
170
St
Hellena
Point
54
Herba Maria 137
Hermoso
M.
98, 127
Higuera
Point
140
Hinomoa
I.
269
Hottentotes
described,
289.
Difficulty of
civilizing them,
291
Humming-Bird described
21
I.
St
Jago
I.
5.
Thievishness of its Inhabitants,
5
St
Jago
R.
50, 158
St
Jago
P.
82, 92
St
James
of
Chili 205
Jaquey
of
Sarra 184
Jelly-fish described
8
Iguanos
I.
47
Imperial
R.
213
Indian
People new discovered
236
John-Deus
R.
29, 196
John Fernandoes
I.
18
St
John
P.
125, 199
Isalco
M.
116
Itata
R.
208
Juan.
See
John
K.
Keylan
I.
244
Kings Islands 149
L.
Labipi
P.
211
Laligna
P
20
Lancas
I.
27
Latitude and Longitude, a Table of them for most places in the South Sea
216
Lempa
R.
117
Leon Mamotombo
M.
124
Leones
I.
139
Lima
City
187
Lion-Lizard described
35
Lobos de Terra
and
de la Mar
I.
176, 178
Lora 208
C.
St
Lorenzo 40, 150, 167
St
Lucas
I.
66, 69
Lymary
P.
202
M.
Maccaw B. described
70
Madera
I.
4
Magon
I.
226.
Its Inhabitants,
&c.
ibid.
Majalones
B.
198
Malabrigo
P.
179
Malaca
P.
173
Mangastan, Fruit, described
286
Manglares
Point
157
Mango described
268
Manila
-Ship attempted in vain
84,
&c.
Manipa
I.
244, 246
Manta
P.
165
Maps, a great Fault in the
Dutch
Maps of the Spice-Islands
280
Santa Maria
I.
211
Maria's
I.
90
Santa Maria
T. attempted,
40, 41.
but in vain
45
Marquiss
P.
97
Martaba
B.
80
Martiare
M.
125
Don Martin
I.
185
Martin Lopez
P.
121
Matan
I.
230
St
Matthew
B.
59, 62, 158
Maule
R.
208
Maxentelbo
Rock
89
Mayo
I.
4
Mazatlan
M.
106
Messias
R.
100
Mexico
-Coast particularly described,
88,
&c.
Mexican
Priests foretel the loss of their Kingdom
111
Mexico,
why it has better Houses, than
Peru
or
Chili 205
St
Michael
Gulf,
40, 150.
Town, Mount
117 118
Mongon
M.
183, 184
Monjala
M.
185
Monticalco
R.
115
Monura
P.
177
Moreno
M.
198
Moskitoes, Gnats very troublesome
270
Mosquitoes
Bar
109
Motapa
M.
175
Motines
M.
80, 81, 94
La Moucha
I.
16, 21
Muscles, very large
75
N.
Naguala
R.
97
Nata 142
Navidad
B.
83, 92
New-Guinea,
the Coast
237
A new Streight discovered. See
Streight
New discovered Islands. See
Spice-Islands
St
Nicolas
P.
193
Nicoya
Gulf,
65, 69, 130.
The Laws of the
Nicoyans
before the coming of the
Spaniards. 13
Nutmegs, Tree and Fruit
263
O.
Ocana 194
Old-wife F. described,
8.
Two sorts of them
8
Ormigas
Rocks
30, 187
Ostridges
294
Oyster. The Great Oyster,
74.
The Pearl-Oyster
74
P.
Pacasmayo
P.
179
Paita
P.
32, 174
Palmas
I.
154
Pamento.
Tree
18
Panama
B. and T.
146,
&c.
Papuda
P.
203
Paraca
P.
191
Paradice (Birds of) describ'd
266
Parina P. 173
Passao
C.
163
Paxores
I.
201
Pearl.
See
Oyster
Pelican described
71
Pena Oradada,
Golden Rock
176, 188
Penguin
Island and Birds
297
Perica P. 148
Peru,
a particular Description of its Coast,
144,
it abounds in Silver, as
Chili
does in Gold
205
Petaplan
M.
95
Picoya
B.
168
Pilot-fish.
7
Pinas P. 151
Pine-Apple described 267
Piscadores
Rocks
186
Pisco P. 191
Planta
I.
150
Plantain-Tree described
61
Plata
I.
53, 167
Pontique,
Rocks
90
Popagajo
Gulf
126
Popagajos
Winds
129
De Porcos
M.
140
Sea-Porcupine described
267
Prizes taken,
32, 33, 36, 45, 48, 53, 67, 76, 80, 82, 93, 94, 130, 160
Proes,
Indian
Boats, described
228
Puebla Nova 136
Puna
I.
172
Punta Mala 134, 141
Purification
(City of the)
92
Q.
Quelagna P. 81. 82
Quemado P. 152
Quibo
I.
137
Quicara
I.
138
Quilca
P.
194
Quiquina
I.
209
R.
Rancheria
I.
138
Raphael
(Sholes of)
207
Rhodas
(Anton de)
P. 186
Ria Lexa P. 121
Rio
B.
207
Rivers on the Coast of
Mexico
many and great; but on the Coast of
Peru
very few and small
192, 195
Roldon
M.
121
Rumbostan, Fruit, described
286
S.
Sacatelepa
M.
117
Sacatepeque
M.
78
Sacaticli
R.
94
Sacrificio
I,
103
Salado
B.
198, 200
Salinas P. 106
Sallagua
B.
93
Salongo
I.
168
St
Salvadore
M.
116
Sama
R.
29, 163.
M.
196
Sande
R.
153
Sapotitlan
M.
78
Sardinas
B.
157
Shucadero
T. taken
43, 150
Sea coloured red with the Spawn of Fish
28
Sea-fight.
See
Fight.
Sea-Lion described
21
Sea-Porcupine
267
Seals described
23
Sechura
B.
177
Shark Fish described,
6.
Stones growing on his Head, good against Gravel,
6.
The Shovel-nosed Shark
120
Sheep of
Peru 188
Sibbil de Wards
I.
13
A mistake of Captain
Dampier's
about their Longitude, corrected,
13.
A strange Bird taken near them
14
Sierras de los Coronados
M.
64, 133
Silver-fish described
12, 24
Silver abounds in
Peru,
and Gold in
Chili 205
Simatlan
R.
105
Sinfonda
Point
209
Soconusco
M.
110
Sonsonate
Point
115
Sparca
R.
129
Spice-Islands, new discovered,
231, 233, 236. See
Cloves, Nutmegs,
&c.
How secured by the
Dutch
to themselves only,
264, 280
Streight, a new one discovered
239
Supe P. 185
Sutaba
M.
123
Suvartanejo 79
T.
Tabaco
I.
148
Tacames
B.
58, 159
Taclamanca
R.
98
Tamarind-Tree
285
Tambo 186, 195
Tangola
I.
104
Tarallones de Queipo
Rocks
65, 133
Tecoantepeque
B. and T.
78, 107
Inhabitants cruelly used by French Pirats
108
Tecoantepequers, Winds
78, 106, 107, 109
Telica
M.
124
Thievishness of the Inhabitants
of
St
Jago 5
Tixba
Point
212
Tolton
R.
114
Tomaco
R.
256
Tongoi
B.
202
Topa de Calma 207
de Tosta
R.
123
Totoral 200
Trinidad
C.
115
Truxillo P. 180
Tucames 197
Tucapel
M.
212
Tumaco
I.
36
Tumbes
R.
173
Turtles described
72
V.
Valdivia P. 214.
So called from the Spanish
Governour, whom the Indians killed by pouring melted Gold down his Throat
214
Valparizo P. 205
Variation. A Table of it for most places in the South Sea,
216.
Very little, in the Run over from the Gulf of
Amapalla
to the
Ladrone
Islands
225
Vejo
M.
123
Velas P. 126
Vermejo P. 184
St Vincent P. 210
Unmos
Point
208
Vulcans of
Guatimala,
one casting out Fire, the other Water,
76, 113. Attitlan, 77, 112. Sapotitlan, 78, 111. Sacatepeque, 78, 111. Colima, 81, 94. Alima, 92. Soconusco, 110. Amilpas, 111. Isalco, 116. St Salvadore, 116. Sacatelepa, 117. St Michaels, 118. Vejo, 123. Telica, 124. Leon Mamotombo, 124. Granada, 126. Bombacho, 126. Zapanzas, 127. Ariquipa 194
W.
Weather, where always fair
192
Wild Beasts, how killed by the Dutch at the Cape of
Good Hope 293
Winds. Land and Sea-winds,
99.
Land-wind, where seldom found,
165.
Wind, where always Southerly
174
Worms that spoil Shipping, in what Latitudes they are found.
161
Y
Yaneque
I.
198
Yellow-tail F. described.
222
Yerba buena 195
Ylo P.
and R.
195
Ystapa
R.
114
Z.
Zalayer
I.
277
Zalisco
M.
89
Zenaque
B.
207
BOOKS Printed for
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A New Voyage round the World. Describing particularly, the
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Abrohlo
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Illustrated with several Maps and Draughts; also divers Birds, Fishes, and Plants, not found in this part of the World. Curiously Ingraven on Copper-Plates. Vol. III. By Captain
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America,
giving an Account of the Author's abode there, the Form and Make of the
Country, Coasts, Hills, Rivers,
&c.
Woods, Soil, Weather,
&c.
Trees, Fruit, Beasts, Birds, Fish,
&c. The
Indian Inhabitants,
their Features; Complexion,
&c.
Their Manners, Customs, Employments, Marriages, Feasts, Hunting, Computation, Language,
&c.
With remarkable
Occurrences
in the
South Sea,
and elsewhere. By
Lionel Wafer.
The Second Edition. To which are added, the
Natural History
of those Parts.
By a Fellow of the
Royal Society: And
Davis
's Expedition to the
Gold Mines,
in 1702. Illustrated with several Copper-Plates.
A New and Accurate Description of the Coast of
Guinea,
divided into the Gold, the Slave, and the Ivory Coasts Containing a Geographical, Political and Natural History of the Kingdoms and Countries: With a Particular Account of the Rise, Progress and Present Condition of all the
European
Settlements upon that Coast; and the Just Measures for improving the several Branches of the
Guinea
Trade. Illustrated with several CUTTS. Written Originally in
Dutch
by
William Bosman,
Chief Factor for the
Dutch
at the Castle of St
George d' Elmina.
And now faithfully done into
English.
To which is perfix'd, an exact Map of the whole Coast of
Guinea,
that was not in the Original.
An Introduction to the History of the
Kingdoms
and
States
of
Asia, Africa
and
America
both Ancient and Modern, according to the Method of
Samuel Pussendorf,
Counseller of State to the late King of
Sweden.
An Account of the Formation of Fossil-shells,
&c.
Wherein is proposed a way to reconcile the two different Opinions, of those who affirm them to be the
Exuviae of real Animals,
and those who fancy them to be
Lusus Naturae
Price 1
s.
An Institution of Fluxions, containing the first Principles, the
Operations,
with some of th euses and Applications of that
Admirable Method;
According to the Scheme prefix'd to his Tract of
Quadratures,
by (its First Inventor) the Incomparable Sir
Isaac Newton.
By
Humphy Ditton.
Price 5
s.