A Brief DESCRIPTION OF Orkney, Zetland, Pightland-Firth & Caithness, WHEREIN,
ter a short Journal of the Author's Voyage thither, These Northern Places are first more Generally Described; Then a Particular View is given of the several
Isles
thereto belonging; Together with an Account of what is most Rare and Remarkable therein: with the Author's Observes thereupon.
EDINBURGH,
Printed by
George Mosman, An. Dom
M.DCC.I.
To His GRACE, JAMES DUKE Of HAMILTON.
May it please Your Grace,
U Pon my Return from
Zetland,
as bound in Duty, I payed my Respects to Your GR. Who was pleased to ask, If I had kept a Diary? Which I acknowledged, but could not shew it, till the Remarks therein contained, were Transcribed, which when done, Y. GR. should have them to glance at, some leisure Hour. Thus Your Command giving Rise to this Undertaking, I have presumed to make the Dedication to Y. GR.
The
Noble
and
Illustrious Family
of HAMILTON, the first in the Nation, standeth in no need of Panegyricks from me, to set forth it Eminency. His GR. Your FATHER was ver
Instrumental in Settling the Peace and Q
of this Kingdom at the late Merciful and Wonderful Revolution, as became a Patriot of H
Country; Under whose Presidency, in th
Convention of Estates, the Government
Our Church was Restored, which since ha
been Confirmed by the subsequent Parliaments.
In His
Surviving Consort,
Your Pious MOTHER, these Endowments and Qualification requisite in the Consort of a Prince, have Em
nently shined Forth, which will Emba
Her Name to succeeding Generations: He likewise being so very Helpful to many Afflicted Ones, both in the former Years of thi
Churches Distress and Trouble, and in the la
ter of great Scarcity and Dearth, She knowing how Valuable are the Blessings of those, who were ready to Perish.
Your GR. Honourable Appearance for, and Acknowledgment of Presbyterian Government, in the last Session of Parliament, wa
Acceptable to many: And I hope Y. GR. shall never have Cause to Repent of Your Continuing to Favour the Ancient Government o
this Church, which as it is Conform to the Scripture-Plan, so the Lord hath been Graciously Pleased to owne and Countenance it, in the Great Things, he hath done for and by the Ministers and Professors thereof.
Among these things for which You stand Obliged to the Wise Conduct of Providence, One is, That You have been so well Directed in the Happy Choice of Your Consorts: Your Present LADY of a Sweet and Gentle Temper, Her Carriage Obliging and Discreet to all, Her Loving to Entertain Pious and Religious Discourse, Her Modest and Exemplary Dress: I wish She may prove a Blessing to Y. Illustrious Family, and be as
Rachel
or as
Leah,
which two did Build up the House of
Israel.
Your Noble Brother LORD
GEORGE,
hath been Created by Our Present GRACIOUS KING, EARL of
ORKNEY,
for His Heroick Appearances, under the Auspicious Conduct of Our King,
As is evident by the Narrative of his Patent of Honour.
who was pleased to take notice thereof, some of these being under His Majesties View; And in Testimony of His Royal Favour, Dignify Him with this Honourable Title, which in the Years of Ancient Times, hath Blazoned the Escutcheons of Kings.
The Branches of Y. Illustrious Family do Flourish in several Parts of the Nation, tho God in His Holy Providence, hath made lately a Breach thereupon, to Y. Grief, and the Nations Loss.
Your GR. Relation to the Ancient and Honourable Family of
Douglas,
gives me occasion to mention that old Alliance betwixt that House and the Princes of
Orkney. William
Lord of
Niddesdale,
commonly called the
Black Douglas,
by
Egidia
or
Giles
Daughter of King
Rob.
2 had a Daughter of the same Name, Married to
Henry Sinclar
usually Styled Knight of the
Cockle
of the
Garter,
Hist. of the House of
Douglas
&
Angus.
and Prince of
Orkney.
To Him Succeeded his Son
William Sinclar,
Married to
Elizabeth Douglas,
About the end of the 14 and begining of the 15
Cent.
Daughter to
Archibald
Earl of
Douglas,
Sir-Named
Tineman;
Whose Titles were, Knight of the
Golden Fleece
and of the
Cockle,
Prince of
Orkney,
Duke of
Holdenburgh,
Earl of
Caithness,
Lord
Sinclar,
Lord of
Niddisdale,
Great Admiral of
Scotland &c.
My L. the Knowledge of History, is that which the most of Men are taken with, as being both Pleasant and Useful; And it cannot but stain the Reputation of any, tho able to give Account of what is Rare in other Countrys, if they be Ignorant of their own, and Places which Depend thereupon, where things no less Remarkable do Occur, which may both Exercise the Ingenious, and Edify the Gracious Inquirers.
But above all, Blessed are they who make a Religious Improvement of Natural Observes, and use all Arts and Sciences as Hand-maids to Religion and Piety; The Knowledge of Christ is the Queen of Sciences, Hence a Learned
Paul determineth to know nothing but Christ and Him Crucified;
And those who in all Ages have been Wise unto Salvation, have preferred Christ's Cross to the Worlds Crown; And with
Moses, reckoned His worst things better then the Worlds best.
The Knowledge of all other things without the Knowledge of Christ, is as a Shadow without the Substance, and a Body without the Head, as some have Instituted the Comparison; Yea they are
without Mind and Judgment; The Cardinal Vertues, as they are called, may be Attained in Shew, but not in Truth,
Quid enim illis cum Virtutibus qui Dei Virtutem Christum ignorant?
All the Glory and Grandure of the World, laid in the Ballance with this piece of Saving Knowledge, is but as a Grain Weight to counter-ballance a huge Mountain:
Galeaceus Caracciolus
Marquiss o
Vico
in the Kingdom of
Naples.
Hence a notable saying of a truly Noble Lord, when set upon by the Jesuits, to change his Religion, Tempting him with Splendid and Rich Offers,
Let their Money,
saith he,
Perish with them, who think all the Glory of the World, worth one days Communion with Jesus Christ.
And truly it is but small Gain, the most Painful and Able Student doth Reap,
Indocti rap
unt caelum & nos cu
Doctrina nostra in Gehennam trudimur.
if after all his Labour in the Records of Antiquity and Researches of Nature, and it may be through the Maze of Intricate Disquisition, he lose his Soul, and notwithstanding of all his Learning be thrust into Hell, being forced to cry out on Death Bed, as it is report-the Learned
Grotius
once did,
Ah vitam perdidi, operose nihil agendo,
My Lord, I hope it will not prove Unsavory to Y. GR., that I have a little Enlarged this Epistle, in Commending of Christ and Religion, which so much Transcendeth Our Commendation and Praise, whence so many Advantages do Accrue to Us, and among others, when there are early Impressions of Piety o
any, the Conscience for ever after useth to hang about them, notwithstanding the Tenor of their Lives hath been assaulted with manifold Tentations. That Y. GR. may still continue to be a True Lover of Your Country, and a Zealous Asserter of Her Rights and Liberties, is and shall be the Desire of him, who is
May it please Your GR. Your GR. most Humble and most Dutiful Servant,
John Brand.
PREFACE To the READER.
I
shall not insist on an Apology, why I trouble the Sweating Press, tho I might use and plead the common Topicks taken from the Advice and Importunity of others, and to prevent the Publishing of some of these Remarks, excerpt from my Papers, by some, into whose hands, they had fallen, after they had lien by me several Months.
There are several Grave Persons in these Isles of good and solid Judgment, both Ministers and Others, who being better acquainted with the Places of their ordinary Residence, then it can be supposed I had occasion to be, might have Published something more Valuable on this Head, and set their Remarks in a clearer Light. As likewise some of my Dear Brethren of the
Commission,
might have done it to greater Advantage. Yet the Engagements that lay on me, to Transcribe the most Remarkable Occurrences, and the Solicitation of some thereupon, to Publish them, have some way obliged me to make this Appearance. However if others hereby shall be excited to serve the Publick, by giving a fuller and clearer
Description
of these Generally little known Places, this Essay will not prove altogether unuseful. And if I had known that any intended to have Published something of this nature, the World had not been troubled with my Scribling.
I hope none will judge, that I Act without my Line, in giving Descriptions of this Nature, seeing all are called to
Remember the Works of the Lord and Talk of His Doings,
as they have occasion: And all along, I endeavour to keep in mind the Character I bear, dropping something of a Spiritual Improvement.
Our Historians, such as I have consulted, have given but a very brief and lame, and in some things a false Account of these places, especially
Zetland,
which is unknown to the most of the Nation, if not that they have only heard, there were such Isles, a
the
Zetlandick.
It is true, there is one Mr▪
Wallace
a late Minister in
Orkney,
who hath gratified the World, by giving a Description, of the
Orkney-Isles;
But neither
Zetland
no
Caithness
doth he meddle with: And as to
Orkney,
there are several things which deserve their own Remark, he makes no mention of; And others have fallen out since his time, which I have noticed So that, on the whole, the Account now given even of
Orkney,
will appear almost new to any, who shal
be pleased to compare the two Descriptions together.
No doubt but such as know these Places, will desiderate several things no less Remarkable, then wha
are Observed; But still my Reader would remember, That this is but a Diary Transcribed. Yet thi
may say, as I have not willingly suffered my self
be imposed on, so neither have I imposed any thing
n the Credulous World, but delivered such things
hich either I was witness to, or had good ground
beleive from Persons worthy of Credit. So that
any thing appear Questionable, I have ordinarly
n general given my Author for it.
Omne tulit punctum qui mi
cuit utile dulci.
I suppose the judicious Reader in perusing the
ollowing sheets, will find things borh Curious and
nstructive, affording matter of Meditation to the Wise Observers of Providence.
As to any Philosophical or Philological Observes,
s I am unfit for, so am I far from a Magisterial
ictating of them to any, but soberly proposed my
wn Sentiments, which if my Reader do not relish,
e may follow his own.
Altho the Style be not Quaint and Elegant,
mbellishd with the Ornaments of Art; yet I hope it will be found plain and intelligible; and tho sometimes obliged to express my self in the Dialect or Idiotism of the Countrey, yet ordinarily such Words and Phrases are some way explained. So when I speak of
Orkney
or
Zetland,
as not in
Scotland,
tho depending thereupon, I express my self, as the Countrey do.
As to the Commissions Work I have not meddled therewith, except when the threed of the History did require me to touch it. However this I may add, Our weak endeavours, for the Advancement of the Interest of Our
LORD JESUS,
in these remote Corners, have not been found, by Superiour Judicatories, altogether unsuccessful; And, I suppose, it repents none of us, of our Voyage thither; however dangerous it did prove.
THE CONTENTS
Of the Chapters.
INtroduction.
Pag. 1
Chap. I.
A Journal of our Voyage. 4
Chap. II.
A Description of Orkney in General. 12
Chap. III.
A Description of the several Isles of
Orkney
in Particular. 28
Chap. IV.
Concerning some Remarkable things in
Orkney.
41
Chap. V.
An Account of some superstitious Rites, Charms &c. Yet remaming there. 54
Chap. VI.
A Description of
Zetland
in General. 64
Chap. VII.
A Description of the several Parishes, and most considerable Isles in
Zetland.
83
Chap. VIII.
An Account of some Remarkable things in
Zetland.
98
Chap. IX.
Concerning their Fish-Trade. 128
Chap. X.
A Description of Pightland Firth. 137
Chap
.
A Description of
Ca
thness.
146
Appendix.
159
ERRATA.
SOme Typographical Errors have cr
pt into the Press▪ which the Reader would be pleased to correct, as page 7. We saw, lege when we saw. page 38. my Lord D
r
n, lege my Lord Darly or Darnly. p 94. Hilesha, leg Hildesha. Upon the head of the Pages, 137, till 146, a Description of Zetland, lege a Description of Pightland Firth. Some other small Errata's there are, which the Candid Reader will pardon, seeing in so far as I observe, they do not marr the sense.
A Description of
Orkney, Zetland
and
Caithness.
INTRODUCTION.
IT is a Principle generally ackowledged,
All Men obliged to promote the publick good.
That all Men in their several Stations, according to their Capacities, are carefully to study the maintaining and promoting of the good and interest of
at Kingdom, Nation or Society, whereof they are Members; For if it go not well with the Publick in
mmon, it cannot reasonably be thought, that the hap
ness of any in particular can long continue, more than
can go well, with the several Members of a Natural
ody, when the Body it self is distressed.
Non nobis nati, sed Patriae & Re
publica
Cicero.
Dulce & decorum est pro Patriâ mori.
It was this
enerous Love and Concern for their Country, that so
gnalised the
Ancient Romans,
and made them in a short
me, arrive to such a height of Glory and Honour;
nto this did their Philosophers, Poets, and Oratours
armly excite their Fellow-Citizens, so that the more,
the less any laid out themselves this way, their At
eivements accordingly were reputed Noble and He
ick, and their Persons renowned.
Yet much more will we find our selves bound to
dvance one another's good,
Especially Christians bound to this.
if we look on our selves
ot only as Men and Members of the Body Politick,
ut as Christians and Members of that Body, whereof Christ is the Head: Therefore our Love of, Care for,
7
Rom.
12.4, 5. 1
Cor.
12.12.27. &c
nd Sympathy with one another, is much commended
n holy Scripture, which the Apostle well illustrateth in several places by that apposite and elegant similitud
of the Members of a natural Body,
Phil.
2.4, 20, 21.
their conspiring t
the mutual good of one another; and expressly commandeth,
Look not every Man on his own things, but a
on the things of others:
And the want thereof he do
heavily regrate in the same Chap.
For I have no M
likeminded, who will naturally care for your state: For
seek their own, not the things which are Jesus-Christ.
Which selfish and narrow Spirit, as it hath too much prevailed in all Ages of the Christian Church, since the Days of the
Apostles;
so in none more, then this o
ours,
Owen on Hebr.
12.15.
As the learned
Owen
observeth, imputing th
shame & the almost Ruine of Christianity thereunto
The Lord Christ,
saith he,
hath ordained, that th
Members of the same Church and Society, should mutually watch over one another, and the whole Body over all the Members unto their Edification And that the practice of it is so much lost as it is, i
the shame and almost Ruine of Christianity.
Gubernatores, Metaphorâ a N
cleris Navem Gubernantibus ductâ.
More especially all clothed with Authority Civil or Ecclesiastick.
But more especially these cloathed with Authorit
Civil or Ecclesiastick stand obliged to this publick care Ministers being as Pilots or Governours under Chris
to the Ship of the Church, as Magistrates under God are to that of the State. And the Charge of Minister having a more immediate respect to the Soul and better part of Man, they are called the more diligently to take heed thereto, and so to steer their Course through the boisterous Sea of this World, as that not only the themselves at length may arrive and rest at the
Fa
Havens
of
Immanuels Land,
but that also through Grace they may carry alongs many with them emba
qued on the same bottom of the Covenant, by th
Means of
Word
and
Discipline. Ministers
are
Stewards Watchmen, Shepherds, Bishops
or
Overseers
&c. All which do imply a Charge to be discharged by them for th
good of others.
Ministers Considered in a 3 fold Relation.
Ministers may be considered in a threefold Relation. 1. As Christians related to Christ, which i
common to them with all believers. 2. As Ministers,
related to that particular Church or portion of the
hurch in general, the inspection whereof is assigned
them, and in which more especially and immediatly they are called to labour. 3. As they stand related to the Church National, whereof they are Mini
ers; whose good they are to endeavour, as God in
s holy & wise Providence shall afford them access.
nd that in all these respects Ministers may the more prove themselves unto their great Lord and Master,
cording to his Appointment, the Apostles Example,
d the Practice of the Church in all Ages, they do
sociate themselves unto Councils, Meetings or Assem
ies more or less General, that so by common Coun
& Consent, they may consult the interest of the
urch of Christ, within their respective districts and
unds. Which as it hath been the laudable practice other Churches, so of the
Church
of
Scotland,
ever
ce her first Reformation from Popery.
For which end the
General Assembly
of this
National
urch
moved with zeal for the Glory of God,
Assemblies zealous in planting the North of
Scotland.
hath
velled much since the late happy Revolution in plan
g the
North
of
Scotland,
and that they might not be
nting in visiting the utmost bounds thereof, with the
es thereto belonging, have deputed several Com
ssions, who repairing thither might upon the place
ke under their consideration, the concerns of the
hurch of Christ in these corners, and determine
erein as they should see cause, according to the
Word
God
and
Acts of Assemblies of this Church.
Commission sent to
Orkney.
Particu
ly one was sent to
Caithness
and
Orkney
Anno 1698.
ho did God and his Church good service there.
In like manner the
General Assembly
Anno 1700.
Commission to
Zetland.
on the desire of certain Ministers in
Zetland,
and Information of the State of affairs in these remote
Islands,
and it necessary to depute a Commission thither,
onsisting of seven Ministers and one Ruling Elder;
ith Power not only to visite and order the Churches there, but likewise to concur with and assist the
Pr
byteries
of
Orkney and Caithness,
as there should be occasion.
The Author's design.
Of this Commission the Author, being one, desig
a brief description of these remarkable parts; after short Journal of his Voyage thither, with some cu
sory Observes thereupon.
CHAP. I.
Containing a brief Journal of our Voyage fro
Leith
to
Orkney,
and thence to
Zetland:
likewise of our Return from
Zetland
by
Orkne
to
Caithness:
Together with a Summary A
count of the remarkable Dangers we were in.
We set Sail from
Leith.
ON Friday 12. April 1700. about six a Clock
the Morning, we set Sail from
Leith
for
Or
ney,
the Wind fair tho faint, which not being a
to bear us up against the Tide, we dropt Anchor t
Miles East of
Inch-keith,
where we lay from Ten t
three in the Afternoon, when a Brisk-gale arising,
weighed Anchor, and Sailed down the
Firth,
the Sh
making so good way, that before next Morning at bre
of Day, we were past
Montross.
On Saturday the Wind lessened, yet about St
set we past
Peterhead,
Steering towards the point
Kinnaird,
leaving the
Bridges
of
Ratray
(a ridge of B
Rocks) on our Larboard. Next Morning, being
Lords Days, with a gentle Wind, we made the
of our way through
Murray Firth,
Pass
Murray Firth.
spending the
in Religious Exercises with the Mariners and so Passengers in company with us. When before
Pe
head
we saw the fins of a great Fish, about an y
above the Water, which they call a
Pricker;
Also ab
Ten at Night, a
Whale
was seen by the help of Mo
light, at a little distance from our Ship, casting fo
the Water in a hideous manner.
Next Morning about Seven a Clock we got sight
Orkney,
and the Wind blowing some what harder,
en it had done the former Night, in the Afternoon
passed the East end of
Pightland Firth,
Land in
Orkney.
which though
inarily raging with the impetuous current of a Sea,
reason of the many Tides meeting there, yet we
nd it not so, but in the midst of that part we pas
, dined upon Deck, so meeting with least danger,
ere we feared the greatest. We put in to
Holms
nd
and arrived there about Seven at Night, on the
onday after our setting sail.
The Ship's Crew told us,
The Voyage favorable.
that tho they had fre
ently Sailed these Seas to and from
Orkney,
yet never
d they a better or pleasanter Voyage: Which Pro
dential favour was the more observable, the Wind
xt Day after we Landed, blowing strong from the
orth and lasting several Days. Which if it had come
, before we had accomplished our Voyage, we
ould not only have been blown back to sea, but
ereby a tempest arising, we had been in no small
nger. We desired to look upon this as a signal Mercy,
d a token for good.
We would have hired our Bark, to
Zetland,
but
e Master being under Charter-party,
We forced to hire an open Boat from
Orkney
to
Zetland.
was obliged to
turn with a fraught of Victual to
Leith,
and not
ving the occasion of any other Ship or Bark, we
ere forc't to hire one of these open Boats of about six
Meils which the
Orkney Men
use for carrying Victual
Zetland,
else we could not go for
Zetland
this sea
n, tho the Ministers and others told us our Passage
ight prove dangerous.
Our stay in
Kirkwal,
the chief Town in
Orkney,
assisting that Presbytery in some of their affairs] was
om the 16. to the 27. of April, when with 3. Ministers of this Country on the Commission, we took
oat for
Sanda
about 30.
We go for
Sanda
from
Kirkwall
Miles North-East from
Kirkwal,
and in our way to
Zetland,
having ordered our own Boat to follow with the first fair Wind. We put off about two in the Afternoon, the Men rowing wit
six Oars about half way, when the Wind rising something favourable with a little Sail and 4. Oars we go
over
Stronza Firth.
Tho as we came near our landin
place in
Sanda,
the increasing Wind raised the wave so high, that sometimes they intercepted the sight
the
Island.
Yet we got all safe on shore betwixt
and 10. at Night. The Mercy of our escape was th
more remarkable, that our Boat was throng'd wit
Passengers; and so overloaden that the Water came almost to her brim; so that if the Sea had not bee
smooth and calm, when we past throw
Stronza Firth
we had been probably all lost: As these who had knowledge of those Seas did afterwards declare unto us.
Go from
Sanda
to
Eda.
We waited in
Sanda
for a Wind from April 27 till May 9. when the Wind presenting, we went t
the
Isle
of
Eda
lying a little to the West of
Sanda
where our Boat was, but before we could get aboard the Wind shifted to South-East and then to East an
by South, which was too scrimp to fetch
Zetland;
however the Wind now being very changeable, we judge
it expedient for us to ly near our Boat and lay hold o
the first occasion: So May 11. the Wind at South-Ea
we put to Sea, but scarce well were we without t
Red-Head
of
Eda,
when the Wind proving contrary we returned to
Calf-Sound May
12. being the Lord's Day we spent in Religious Exercises with the Peopl
of the
Isle;
in the Evening the Wind turning fair, we resolved next Morning early to get Aboard, if the Wind held. This last Night, after we returned to
Calf-Sound,
was terrible for Wind and Rain from the West, the Wind soon altering, after we had got it again to
Calf-Sound
) with which we could not have kept the Sea, in all probability. A great Mercy the
it was, that we were determined to return, and did not keep the Sea, as some advised, for tho within half an hour after we had got in to the
Sound,
the Wind turned fair, yet being too strong, the Sea became foul
ad tempestuous, which was not for our open Boat.
Munday Morning
May
13. about two of the Clock,
e were called to go Aboard which we did according
, the Wind at West or West and by North, the
ale was brisk, but not very great, which we were
lad of, thereby expecting a speedy passage:
Putting off from
Eda,
we in great danger.
So we
ith two other Boats in Company loosed, but scarce
ere we a League without the Heads, we saw a storm
f Wind and Rain making in the West, whence the Wind blew, wherupon one of the Boatmasters in com
any, advised us to tack about, and endeavour to
etch
Calf-Sound
again, which counsel we judging to be
afe, accordingly essayed to follow it, but the Wind
nd Sea rising more boisterous and the Current of the
bb being strong from the Sound, we could not by any means effectute our design, tho we made several Trips
ot without danger; the Sea with its broken and swel
ing waves threatening to swallow us up every moment: The Mariners stood by their sails, crying, This work was very dangerous, and at one time, as one of them observed, the Boat had taken in about 10. Barrels of Water, the Pump was still kept going, we
udged our selves to be lost Men, and some expressed
o much. In these straits we desired the Boatmaster
itting by the Helm, to see if he could make any other Harbour or Bay; He answered, God have Mercy upon
s, for the Sea we dare not keep, and there is not
nother Harbour in
Orkney
we can make, The Men were fatigued with the toil of their hard work, and
lmost at the giving over. We then knew to our experience the meaning of that Scripture Ps. 107.27. of Seamen in a storm's being at their wits end. Tho the Wind was fair for
Zetland,
yet we durst not hold on our Course, the Sea not only being tempestuous, but we had also several Rousts or impetuous Tides to pass, and then the Ebb was in the Sea, which made them so much the more dangerous. Thus streitened, we thought it adviseable, to go down with some Sail before the Wind to the North end of
Sanda▪
& endeavour to get in to
Otterswick
or
Taphness Bay,
Get in to a
Bay.
we fir
attempted
Otterswick,
and lest we should have been blow
by the Bay's mouth, we held so near Land, that th
Boat beat several times upon a Rock, however we go
in and drop't Anchor on the weatherside of the shore.
Go to Sea again.
We were all much refreshed with this great deliverance from so imminent a danger. When we had ridden some hours at Anchor, the Wind and Sea calmed About 7, at Night one of the Boatmasters in company who had entred the
Bay
a little before us, weighed Anchor and put to Sea again. Some of our number we
for lying still, till the Weather was better setteld others thought that seeing
God
had commanded a Calm that we had a favorable Wind, that the skie appeared t
be well set and promising, and that the other Loadened Boat had gone to Sea before us, it might seen from these things Providence invited us to Sea again
Whereupon we put off, but before we had come th
length of
North Ronalsha,
scarce a League distant from the
Bay,
we had been in, the Wind became so faint that the Mariners took them to their Oars, to help them through
North Ronalsha Roust,
thence when w
came to
Dennis Roust,
we made some way with our Sail without Oars, the Tide then turning and the Flood beginning to run in the Sea.
Blown back by contrary Winds to
Stronza.
Tuesday
May
14. about 1. or 2 in the Morning th
Wind shifted to East South East, then to East, an
our Boatmaster telling us, that he was forced to ste
a Northern Course, else he could not bear Sail, an
so holding on, not a stone in
Zetland
he could hit, a
he expressed himself, we all judged it most prop
to return to
Orkney:
When we had tacked about, th
Wind shifted to North East, a strong Gale together wit
great Rains, which caused a rolling and a swelling Se
(for Rains here without Winds do raise, or canker (as they terme it) the Sea, and much more when Win
and Rain come on at once) however we got in safely to
Stronza Road,
which was the readiest we could make. It was a happy Providence that we then returned at that nick of time, for the Flood not being all spent, we were thereby likewise hastened in our way, so that within a few hours we came to our Port, tho as was reckoned, we were near mid-way between
Orkney
and
Fair Isle.
The storm increased with the Day, and after our landing it was so very great, that we were obliged to keep within doors, for several hours; And if then we had been at Sea, it is terrible for us to think upon the dismal effects which might have followed thereupon, for without all peradventure, we had certainly perished, if the Lord by some wonder of mercy had not rescued us, as indeed he had formerly done.
O that we would praise the Lord for his Goodness, and for his wonderful works to the Children of Men, And that so long as we live, we may never forget, the 13th. and 14th. Days of
May,
wherein the Lord wrought a great deliverance for us.
Thus being discouraged,
Tho discouraged with dangers, we yet resolve to go for
Zetland.
we were in great perplexity, not knowing, what to do, Whether to make any further attempt, or to return home,
re infecta,
seeing God in his Providence had so crossed us hitherto, and it might be his mind, we should not go forward. Upon these fluctuating and perplexing thoughts, we askt God's mind in the matter, after which more light did arise, and we unaminously resolved yet to trie, what the Lord would do with us.
Fryday
May
17. between 8. and 9. in the morning,
We arrive at
Lerwick
in
Zetland.
Wind and skie promising well, we put to Sea, and passed the
Fair Isle
about 5. Afternoon, keeping it on our Starboard, then our Gale increasing, but continuing fair, at South-West, we made good way. About Midnight we past
Swinburgh Head,
the southern-most point of Land in
Zetland,
having thence 24. Miles to Sail up within Land to
Lerwick,
whether we were bound. The Wind growing more vehement, we lowed our Mainsail, and took in a Riff; With the breaking of the Day, there arose a Mist, whereby we could scarce see Land, however we judged it safest, to keep as near it, as we could, and sailed away by the Coast; but being to pass through a
Sound
having the Isle of
Musa
on our Starboard and
Burra Land
on our Larboard,
A danger escaped.
our Seamen mistook the point of
Musa,
taking another point in the
Mainland
for it, and the Mist lying on, we were almost engaged in the Land, and so would have fallen among rocks, which they coming to suspect, held to Sea, resolving to Sail without the point which they did with difficulty, the Boat being so close haled, and the blast great, that the Helm-a-lee, was scarce able to command her and keep her by the Wind: Which when they had done, came to discover their Errour. Hence sailing through
Musa Sound,
we came to
Brassa Sound,
and arrived at
Lerwick
on Saturday about 4. in the Morning.
Some remarkable Providences by the way.
We had a quick passage, sailing about 100. Miles in 19. or 20. hours time: Especially considering, that we were not half an hour on shore, when a strong Wind blew from the North, which if it had come on but a little Soonner▪ we would have been driven back to Sea. There is likewise another Providence remarkable, that we had only an ordinary desirable Gale, when we passed the
Fair Isle,
where always there goes a great rolling Sea, but when within the Heads of the Land of
Zetland,
we had it very strong, so that scarcely we could have wrestled and held out against it in the Ocean.
We leave
Zetland,
and arrives at
Kirkwall
in
Orkney.
We arrived in
Zetland May
18. and having brought to some Period and Close our principal work there, we set Sail for
Orkney, June
11. saluting and bidding heartily farewell to the Ministers, and some Gentlemen of the Countrey and to the most considerable Inhabitants of
Lerwick,
who kindly accompanied us to our Boat. We left
Zetland
Teusday
June
11. about 5 Afternoon, and having the Wind at North-West or North West and by North we passed the
Start Head
of
anda
about 4. next Morning, and endeavouring to
et in to
Ketteltaft
in
Sanda,
A danger escaped.
to put one of the Mini
ters of that Isle ashore; our Boat through our Boat-masters inadvertency struck on a rock, without sustaining any dammage, we knew; But the Wind not permitting to turn up to that Road, we all came to
Kirkval,
and arrived there before 9 in the morning. Our
astage from
Zetland
to
Orkney,
was yet quicker, then
t was from
Orkney
to
Zetland,
we being but 16. hours
n running 120. or as some say, 128. Miles. Staying
n
Orkney
a few days,
Pass
Pightland Firth
to
Ca
thness,
and thence home by Land.
we passed
Pightland Firth
to
Caith
ess,
and having dispatched our work in conjunction with the Presbytery there; we came home by Land,
epairing with joy to our several Charges, Where we may set up our
EbenEzer,
saying,
Hitherto hath the Lord helped us.
I think we are called seriously to reflect upon the Man
er of the Lord's dealing with us,
Some Reflections upon the dangers we had been in.
we have been long detained and crossed in our way to
Zetland,
tho we made several attempts to goe forward; As to our
Commission
we were appointed by the
General Assembly
of this
Church,
and it being put upon us without any desire of ours, or inclination that way, we accordingly undetrook our Voyage, and came with a favourable Gale to
Orkney:
It is true, that there are natural causes of Wind and Rain, whereof we are to make a Spiritual improvement, especially when they do impede or promote our designe; Moreover Gods Judgements are a great depth, and by the course of Nature, in giving greater or lesser Winds at his pleasure, he may carry on his more General Works of Providence, and yet thereby more especially intend the punishment of the wicked, or the Chastisement of his People, which they are called to consider and improve: And as true it is, God in his Wise Soveraignity may so deal wi
h his People, for the trial of their Faith and other Graces, that they may be still and know that he is God, ruling as he pleaseth among the Children of Men: The Devil also, who is the
Prince of the power of the Air
may have an evil and malicious hand in things of this nature Especially when Men purpose to do good, which tends to the overthrow of his Kingdom. O that what we have met with may be so blessed, as to render us more zealous against him and all Sin, whereby his Kingdom is established in the World,
That we may fight with Devil
and be more then Conquerours through him who loveth us.
I say tho these things and the like sometimes may and ought to be had a regard unto, yet
I
do humbly judge that upon these so very dreadful dangers we have in great mercy escaped, we are called to examine ourselves, and search unto our Sins as we are
Christians
and as we are Ministers, for which the Lord may have a controversie with us; Our not being so faithful in our personal and pastoral work, in working out our oun
and others Salvation; Our impatience in not waiting the Lords time, but being too anxious to be in
Zetland
at any rate: And it is like in our not being so single in our ends in goeing, as we ought to be &c. I conclude this Chap. As the
Psalmist
doth
Ps.
107. Reflecting on the Wonders of Providence,
Who is wise, and will observe those things: Even they shall understand the loving kindnesse of the LORD.
CHAP. II. A Description of
Orkney,
its Situation, Name first Planters, Language, manners of the People, Wholesomeness of the Air, Corns &c.
THE
Isles
belonging to
Scotland
have commonly been divided into three Classes; The Western, scaattered in the
Deucaledonian Ocean,
The Isles belonging to
Scotland
divided into three Classes
on the West; the
Orkney
and
Zetlandick,
both lying to the
North
of
Scotland.
As to the Western Isles, tho in number far exceeding both the Isles of
Orkney
and
Zetland,
yet
I
take no notice thereof, in the subsequent Descriptione:
r Commission not being deputed thither, so only the
tter shall
I
give some breif account of, not intending
advance any thing, but what
I
have either found
be true from my own observation, or had by good
formation from sensible and grave Persons worthy of
edit; And shall begin with
Orkney
as order requireth,
e first Landing there.
Orkney
lyes to the North of
Scotland,
The Situation of
Orkney.
bounded on
e West by the
Deucaledonian Ocean;
on the East, by
e
German;
On the North, by the Sea, which divides
Orkney
from
Zetland;
And on the South, by
Pightland
rth,
12 Miles broad, from
Dungisbie-Head
or
John
rot's House,
the Northermost House in
Scotland
to
urwick
in
South-Ronaldsha,
the Southernmost point of
Orkney.
It is commonly said to be about the 59th degree of Latitude at
Kirkwal
which lyes within the Coun
ey; tho the Southmost point of
South-Ronaldsha,
is
istant from the Northernmost of
North-Ronaldsha,
ear a degree.
That
Orkney
or
Orcades
is the name of these Isles,
Concerning the Name
agreed in, by ancient and modern Writers, But of
he Etymologie and whence the name is derived, none
suppose will be found to give a satisfying account. Some alledging it to come from
Orcas,
which
Ptolomy
reckons to be a Promontory of
Caithness,
opposite to
Orkney;
Others from the Greek word
Coerceo,
these Isles breaking and restraining the force of the rageing Waves: Or from
Hurricano,
because of the boisterous Winds and Hurricanes which often blow in this Countrey: Or from
Erick
or
Orkenwald,
or some other Pictish Prince famous there at its first Plantation. Which derivations, some of them at least cannot but appear far fetcht to the thinking Reader:
Injuriâ Temporis multa in oblivione jacent sepulta.
And indeed many in giving the Reasons of names, do rather please their own Curiosity, then render a true account of their Original; seing the Reasons generally of the Ancient Names of Countries are buried in oblivion, through the want of Writers, and neglect of the first Inhabitants, especially in these parts of the World, wherein Learning more slowly advanced.
The 1st Possessors of the Countrey.
The first Planters, and Possessours of the Countrey seem to have been the
Picts,
there being several old Houses, both here and in
Zetland,
which to this Day are called
Picts
or
Pights Houses,
and the
Firth
between
Orkney
and
Caithness,
is still called
ight-land Firth;
Whereupon some of our Historians, as
Boethius,
Writing of the Isles of
Orkney,
doth observe,) design
Orkney,
the most ancient Kingdom of the
Picts;
Boeth
Hist de orchad.
Orchades insulae, antiquissimum Pictorum Regnum a quibusdam nostrarum rerum Scriptoribus vocitatae.
And we find mention made of the Kings of
Orkney,
Buchan.
Histo, on
Ewen.
2.
at
Buchanan
tells us of one
Belus
who having Invaded
Scotland,
was defeated and put to Flight by
Ewen
2d.
King
of
Scots,
Killing most of his Army, upon which
Belus
being much discouraged and broken in Spirit, despairing of life, put hand in himself,
Both Hist. Lib. 2.
and became his own Executioner.
Boethius
calls him
Balus; Balus autem Orchadum Rex fractus animo, desperatâ Salute, ne in hostium potestatem ventret, manum fibi intulit.
And in the
Church
of
Birsa
at the West end of the
Mainland
in
Orkney,
there is a long Stone yet standing erect, with the name
Belus
inscribed thereon in ancient Characters; Probably this was the Place of his Interment. Also the
Minister
of
Sandwick's Manse
is said to have been the Residence of one of the Kings of
Picts,
and therefore to this Day is called
Koning
gar,
or the
Kings House;
And that part of the Manse, which they say served for the Palace of a King▪ is so litle, tho now keept in some Repair, that it could not accommodate a Family of an ordinary rank; The Figure thereof and contrivance of its two Rooms or Chambers one above and another below, of narrow dimensions, are antick, and the Building hath been but course.
Boethius
likewayes tels of another King called
Banus,
whom
Claudius-Caesar
having subdued,
anno Christi
43. He carried him with his Wife, and Children Captive to
Rome,
and were led by him in Triumph:
Buch
nan
questiones the truth of this History,
Buchan Hist. in vitam Carataci.
Tacitus
af
irming that part of
Britain
then to have been altogether
nknown to the
Romans, nec temere tamen crediderim quod
ostri tradunt Scriptores
&c.
quod Tacitus affirmet ante
ulij Agricola adventum,
Kenneth. 2. expelleth the Picts.
See
Buchan. Hist. in vitam
Ken. 2.
Quietissime vixit promotis finibus ab Orcadum Insulis usque ad Vallum Adriani.
The Norvegians obtain possessione of the Isles, and are expelled thence by
Alexr
- 3. King of
Scots.
Act. 13. Parlia. 2
Charles
2. anno 1669 the Earle of Mortons Wed set reduced by Act of Parliament Mr.
Wallace
his Description of of
Orkney;
eam Britannia partem Romanus
no incognitum fuisse.
But if
Boethius
his Relation be
rue, the vanquishing of
Orkney
hath been reputed something considerable, seeing not to every Conquerour was
llowed by the
Roman Senate,
the Glory of a Triumph.
It is also probable, the Government of these Isles continued with the
Pictish Princes,
till the Dayes of
Kenneth
2d.
King
of
Scots,
a Warlick Prince, who having prevailed with his Nobles contrairy to their own inclin
tion, by a notable peice of craft, to engage in a War against the
Picts,
with an undaunted valour and courage, routed the
Pictish Army
and wasted their Countrey with Fire and Sword, pursueing them to the
Orkney Isles
which he then annexed to the Crown of
Scotland,
reign
ng from
Orkney
to
Adrian's Wall
Anno Dom. 854. Thence
Orkney
continued in the Possession of the
Scots,
till the Dayes of
Donald Bane,
about the Year 1099, who that he might secure the Kingdom to himself, promised the Isles to
Magnus King
of
Norway,
if he would assist
im with a necessary force; Which offer
Magnus
accept
ng, the
Norvegians
became Masters of the Isles, till
Alexander.
3d. about the Year 1263 Recovered them by
xpelling the
Norvegians;
Which ever since were possessed and disposed of by our Kings. To be breif, at length
William Douglas Earl
of
Mortoun
got a Wadset of
Orkney
and
Zetland
from
King Charles
the first, Which Wadset with all the Rights, Contracts, Infeftments &c. There
nto appertaining, was reduced by a
Decreet
of the
Lords
of
Session,
obtained at the instance of his
Majesties Advocate
against
William Douglas
also
Earl
of
Mortoun
Grandchild to the foresaid
Earl, February
1669. which Decreet was ratified and confirmed by
Act of Parliament,
he
December
following, erecting the Earldom of
Orkney
and
Lordship
of
Zetland
into a
Stewartry
to be calle
in all time comeing the
Stewartry
of
Orkney
and
Zetland
The reason comonly given, why the
Earl
of
Morto
lost the Wadset, was because some Chests of Gol
were Seised by the
Earls Deputs
in
Zetland,
got out o
a rich Ship, called the
Carmelan
of
Amsterdam,
cast awa
there Anno 1664; None of this Gold coming to th
Kings Thesaury,
tho some of it, as was alledged, cam
to the
Earls
hands.
The Contry of
Orkney
and
Zetland
reckoned considerable and the Title honour able.
From our History we may know, that
Orkney
an
Zetland
have been reckoned so great and considerable a part of his
Majesties Ancient Kingdom,
that for dive
ages they occasioned much expence of Blood and Treasure, for the maintaining thereof against the Invasion
Foreiners, and recovering the same out of their hand by Arms and Treaties. The Title likewayes of the
Isles hath still been reputed honourable, hence it hat
pleased Our present King to confer this Title of
Earl
Orkney,
upon
Lord George Hamilton, Brother to his Gra
the 'Duke of Hamilton,
for good services done by hi
to his Majesties Person and Government.
The state of the Contrey considered; the People personable and hospitable, Their Clothes.
I proceed to consider the present state of the Countrey. The People here are Personable and comely, an
many of them, as I observed, are of a Ruddy complex
on, which may be by reason of the Sea Air and their frequent Fish-diet, such a colour and countenance as o
Mariners use to have and retain for some Dayes afte
they are come from Sea: They are generally Hospitab
and civil, giving kind and humane entertainment t
Strangers, which we found to our experience. Bot
Men and Women are fashionable in their cloths,
Men here use Plaids, as they do in our Highlands;
the North Isles of
Sanda Westra
&c. Many of the Cou
trey People wear a peice of a Skin, as of a Seale, comon called a Selch, Calf or the like, for Shoes, which th
fasten to their Feet with stringes or thongs of Leathe
Their Houses are in good order, and well furnish
according to their qualities.
They generally speak English, neither do I think,
Their Language.
hey have so much of the Northern Accent, as in ma
y places of the North of
Scotland,
yet several of the
sles
have some Words and Phrases peculiar to themselves. There are also some who speak
Norse
especial
in the
Mainland,
as in the Parish of
Hara
there are a
w yet living, who can speak no other thing, this
anguage not being quite extinct among them, since
e
Norvegians
whose Language it is,
The Air wholsome
had this Countrey
possession. And tho
Caithness
be near to
Orkney,
yet none
n
Orkney
can speak
Irish,
tho the greatest part in
Caithness
can; Nor any in
Caithness
speak
Norse,
tho some in
Orkney
yet can do it.
The Air as it is peircing and cold,
Hence many old Persons.
so it is free and
ealthy; Hence many arrive at a good old Age: One
Evie
brought forth a Child in the 63 Year of her
ge, as the Minister who had enquired thereunto, de
lared: A Man in the Parish of
Holm,
who died not many Years since, lived with his Wife in a conjugal
ate above 80 Years; as the present Minister of the
lace informed me: A Gentleman in
Stronsa,
who died
bout two Years since, was begotten of his Father when
00 Years old, this was attested by the Ministers who
new the truth thereof. One
William Muir
in
Westra
lived
40 Years, and died about 16 Years agoe, by a de
ay of Natures heat and vigour, incident to such an in
decrepit age, without any ordinary Sickness, as a Gentleman in these bounds well acquainted with him, old me.
They subject to the Scurvy.
The disease they are most obnoxious unto
the Scurvey, occasioned, as is judged, by the Sea
ir, Fishes, Saltmeats &c. It is observed likewayes that
is colder in the Summer time, then it is with us in
e South, but warmer in the Winter, the Snow not
sing to ly long; For (beside other things that might
e said on this head,
The temperament of their Climate.
which also respect other Countreys)
n the Summer cold breezes come off the Sea, which
empers the heat; And in the Winter season the same
eezes may qualify the extreme cold and frost, which useth to be greatest, when the Air is most quiescent, a
least disturbed with Winds; The great motion also of
rapid Tides may contribute not a litle thereunto.
Their Corns and Bread.
Their ordinary grains are Oats and Barley, and
other grains should be sown, the product would
be great if any at all, they not taking with such a w
and cold soil, and the many brinish blasts these Isles exposed unto. As for Wheat-bread it is rare and sca
to be had, if not at
Kirkwal
and some Gentlemen Houses, who bring the flour from
Murray
or the So
of
Scotland.
As for their Oats and Barley, the gra
is less and blacker, then it is with us: Yea tho th
should bring good and fair seed from other Countrey
within a few years it would degenerate and beco
like their own; which is the reason why their Me
and Bread are of such a black colour. Yet in some pl
ces the Meal is whiter, and said to be better then others. Their not being so diligent in winnowi
their Corns, nor having such good Mills for grind
as we have, may be partly the cause thereof. In so
place also they use not to shear their Corn, but pluc
it up by the roots, as we do the Lint, because of t
scarcity of fodder to their beasts, which Corns if o
taken pains upon, will abound with sand and dul
Nevertheless for ought I hear or know, their Brea
and Ale are wholesome, and the Natives take we with them. I thought; first when we Landed in
Orkne
their Oat bread and Fleshes also, had some Fish-taste but when we had tarried some Days there, we we
not so sensible of it.
The nature of the Soil, and the Product thereof.
Their arable ground is better and more fertile, the
at first to strangers appeareth, whence I heard so
Gentlemen declare, It was wonderful to think, ho
great the product of these Isles is considering the man barren mountains and much waste ground that are i
them. They dung their Land for the most part wit
Sea-ware, which having gathered, they suffer to rot
either on the Coasts, or by carrying it up to the Lan
on Horses or on their backs, they lay it in heaps, the time of labouring approach; Which is the rea
, why the skirts of the Isles are more ordinarily
tivated, and do more abound with Corns, then
ces at a greater distance from the Sea, where they
ve not such gooding at hand. Their Ploughs are
tle and light, having only one stilt, and but little
n in them; hence when at the end of the ridge,
who holds it lifts it up and carries it to the other
le of the ridge, and if he please may carry it home
his shoulders: The reason they give of this is, that
hough some of their ground be strong, yet their
asts are weak and unable to go through with a plough any considerable weight.
Their Horses, Kine, Sheep,
Concerning their Cattel and their price:
Lambs &c. are of a
sser size then with us, and are to be bought at an
s
er rate, for a good Cow will be had for 5
lib.
Scots,
r 4.
ib.
16
ib,
at which price they are obliged to sell
er at
K
kwal
about Martinmass. A good Wedder
r 20
sh.
Scots. A Hen for 2
sh.
or 2
sh.
6
d.
&c. The Sheep here are generally wild, therefore when
hey would have them taken, they ordinarily do it by Dogs trained for the purpose, the Owner of the Sheep giving to the Master of the Dog 2
shill.
Scots for each
me that is taken, and it they be not so wild but 1
shill.
Some Husband Men told us, they would rather labour their Land over again, then take their Sheep when they would have them washen and shorn; I saw young Man come from the hills wet and weary, hav
ng a long time pursued one to kill for our use. Their Kine are of divers colours, some white, others of
a pyed, some red, others red and white &c.
No Rivers, but some Brooks here, which cause their Mills to go.
So that
think, there are as many of these colours, as are of a black. They have no Rivers, no place of the Land, being above 2 or 3. Miles distant from the Sea, therefore they draw water out of wells for their Cattel, or drives them to Lochs or Lakes, some whereof they have, or to some small brooks which run from the Lochs: Which Lochs likewise cause their Mills to go.
Plenty of Cattel Butter and Milk.
They have abundance of Cattel in many places whereby is afforded them plenty of Milk, which yeeldeth much Butter, some whereof is very good, yellow and sweet, but that which is called
Orkney Butter▪ Edinburgh.
is only their Farm-Butter, which they a
obliged to pay to the Taxmen or Masters, whereof quantity according to compact and agreement bein
gathered, they are at little or no trouble to make a
keep it clean. Their Sheep also are very fruitful, ma
of them having two, and some three at a birth, which as
Mr. Wallace
lately,
Boeth Hist. de Orcad.
so
Boethius
of old did observe
Oves illic pene omnes geminos, immo trigeminos pleraeq
partus edunt.
Their Fishes.
Fishes of divers sorts are taken in great plenty, y
not so numerous as formerly, for now before the catch their great fishes as Keelling, Ling &c. the must put far out into the Sea with their little boats, an
thereby undergo great danger, which in former time they used to get nearer the Coasts: However such
number is taken, that beside what serves for their own supply, many are sent abroad to other Countrys fo
sale. Particularly there are grey fishes, called Silluks scarce half so big as a Herring generally, which swee
and are taken in great numbers upon the Coasts,
that sometimes they will sell 1000. of them for 6. or
still.
Scots. This fish is pleasant to the taste, and also they say very wholesome, which seems to be confirmed by this, that in the late years of great scarcity the poorer People lived upon them, almost as thei
only food, they often not enjoying a crum of Bread so many
Weeks.
So our good God, on the shutting o
one door, opened another in his holy and wise Providence for the relief of the poor.
Herrings.
Herrings do sweem here in abundance, which formerly occasioned several Ships frequenting these Isles but since the Battle of
Kilsyth,
they say, that Trad
th failed; many of the
Enster Men,
who were ordi
ry fishers upon these Coasts, being killed there.
hen I was in
Papa Westra,
they pointed out to me a
olm
upon the East side of the Isle, where I saw the
ines of some Huts or little Houses, whereunto these
nster Men
sometimes resorted, during the Herring
hing. A Gentleman living in this Isle told me, that
e former Year 1699, there was a great quantity of
erring Sperm or Spawn driven upon the shore, and
y there for some time in heaps; which evidenceth
at Herrings in their season, are yet on these Coasts:
o means be not used to take them.
Beside the many other excellent fishes, as Keeling,
Many other good Fishes.
ing, Scate, Turbot, and sometimes they say Stur
eon &c. there are also many Shell fishes taken; as Lobsters sold for an half penny or 4
pen.
Scots; Oisters
uch bigger then with us, for 4
shill.
Scots per 100.
artens and Mussels; and Cockles in so great plenty,
hat they make much good Lime of their shells,
Lime made of Cockle shells.
beside which they have no other Lime in
Orkney,
save what
hey bring from the South.
They have plenty both of Land and Sea Fowls:
Plenty of Fowls.
as Eagles, Hawks, Ember-Goose, Claik-Goose, Dun
er-Goose, Solen-Goose, Swans, Lyres, Scarffs, Keriwaiks,
lover, Muir-Fowl, Duck and Drake &c. The King's Falconer useth to go every year to these
sles, taking the young Hawks and Falcons to breed, and every House in the Countrey is obliged to give him a Hen or a Dog, except such as are exempted. The Eagles do much hurt to the young store, falling doun upon their Lambs and Hens, and taking them away with them to their Nests, Killing and pulling out the eyes and hearts of their Sheep; Hence there is an Act standing in the Steward's books, that whoever shall kill an Eagle, shall have a Hen out of every House of the Parish, where he is killed; yet notwithstanding of this encouragement, I hear but of few killed, they fleeing high, and dispatching their prey so quickly: I saw a young one in the Palace of
Birsa,
almost twi
the bigness of a Goose, tho not a month old, it is ravenous fowl, and would have run upon us, if we h
not kept it of with our slaves. As to its colour, it
for the most part black, and something of a yellow
golden colour about the Head, and in some parts o
the wings. It is observed of the Eagle, that he do
more destruction in places at some distance from h
nest, then in these that are nearer it. Eagles, Haw
and such like fowls have their nests ordinarily, o
some high, ragged rock, washen by the Sea beneath some of which we saw as we had occasion to sail b
them.
An account of the Ember-Goose.
The Ember-Goose tho not altogether so big as ou
Land-Goose, yet it useth to weigh a stone weight. I
hath short wings, not able to bear up the body for fleeing, hence it is never seen flee, neither sit on an
rock in the sea, as other Fowls do, but hath it's nest wherein it hatcheth its Eggs, one or two at once under the Water, at the foot of a rock, as they informed me, hath been found. It is of a darkish grey colour, and white about the neck, of broad feet like ou
Land-Goose, and a long beck and tho ever in the Water, yet hath not, I think, such a strong fish taste, a
the Solen-Goose. It is more difficult to get them shot, then other Sea fowls, they being very quick-sighted, and on the 1st. apprehension of danger, get beneath the Water: Yea by reason of their many feathers, they will receive a shot on their breast, and it not penetrate: wherefore who would be at them, design for their Heads, or to shoor them against the feathers.
And Lyre
The Lyre is a rare and delicious Sea fowl, so very fat, that you would take it to be wholly fat; it is somewhat less then a Duck.
Sea-Fowls. numerous
The Sea-fowls are so numerous, that a Gentleman in
Westra
told his Minister, that some Years ago, he for his own part killed so many, as afforded him 50, 60. and some Years 100. stone weight of feathers,
hereby accrues to the Owners more gain, then by
e flesh of the fowls) tho for some seasons past, he
th taken but few; For it is observed, that these
wls follow the small Fishes, which are their ordi
ry food, hence the mo Fishes, the mo Fowls, and
hen the Fishes forsake this and the other place, the
wls likewise do so within a short time. Because of
is abundance of Fowls, therefore it is, that the
entlemen and some others have the rocks in several
aces divided among them, as they have their Land.
hich Fowls they either kill by small shot our of Boats
the foot of the frequented rocks, or else Men are let own by ropes from the top of the rocks, who search
r the Nests, taking the Eggs, and what Fowls they
n apprehend. Many kinds of the Sea-Fowls are of a
yed colour, some of which are not to be found with
s in the South.
There are here no Partridges,
No Partridges, but abundance of Muir-Fowls.
but plenty of Muir-
owls, hence in some Isles they will take 20, 30. or
o pair in one day, the hills covered with heather,
eing by Nature fitted for their living and accommo
ation. Conies also do abound in most of the Isles, but
o Hares are to be seen,
No Hares, but Rabbets in abundance.
so that if any be brought into
he Country, as they say, hath been tried, they will
ot live and propagate as in other places. I hear of
ew, if any venomous creatures in these Isles, as
Boe
ius
of old did observe,
Boeth. Hist. de Orcad.
Serpentes aut aliud animal vene
osum nullum, id quod de Hiborma quoque verum est:
No Bees either are here,
No venomous Creatures.
there being no provision proper
or them, beside they would not take well with this
old Climate.
No Trees there are in this Countrey, nor Bushes,
No Trees.
ave a few in the Bishops Garden at
Kirkwal,
which
re esteemed as a rarity, for when planted and taken are of, they sometime grow up the height of their Garden Wall, but afterwards they gradually go back
nd decay. This several Gentlemen very desirous of
aving Trees to grow, declared; Which then must be imputed to the nature of the Soil, and sharpness the Sea-air, and not to the sloth of the Inhabitant as our Historian asserts,
Nulla usquam Arbor ac ne Fr
tex quidem praeter Ericam,
Buchan. Hist. L.
1.
nec id tam coeli aut so
v
quam incolarum ignaviâ, quod facile ostenditur ex arbo
radicibus, quae pluribus in locis eruuntur.
For tho ind
it be true, that Roots, and sometimes Bodies of Tree
are found in Mosses; yet this is rare, and only to be ha
in some places; whereas Gentlemen say, they brin
in exotick or foreign Plants, they sow Seed for Nurseries, which useth to arrive at some greater growth then what is planted, yet after all their pains and expence in using such proper means, so conducive, fo
obtaining their end, no perfection or bearing of Frui
can be attained. And that Trees, which yet are b
small, and look dry and withered, do grow in the Bishops Garden, may be because of its inclosure, having the Church on one side, the Town of
Kirkwal
on another, and the Bishops house on a third; Which kind of fences, may keep off the cold breezes, that come from the Sea, and destroy the growth of Tree
in other places.
Tho there be no Trees, and so no Fruits for the Table,
Good Roots.
yet there is no lack of good Roots for the Kitchen, as Cabbage, Carrots, Parsnipes, Turnipes, Crummocks, Artichoaks &c. All which useth to be bigger here then with us ordinarly; especially their Artichoaks excel, hence some Gentlemen do barrel and send them out of the Country for a present to their Friends. Beside these, they have likewise variety of Herbs in the field, very beneficial to such as understand their vertue and use.
Pites and Turff are the ordinary fewel they use, which they have very good and in great plenty through the Country,
Their fewel.
except in some places, which do not so abound therewith, as in
Sanda
they are obliged to bring pites from the adjacent Isles, they not having in their own Isle to suffice them. And the usual
ner of agreement with the Proprietor of the
s, is for so much a day, for so many Peits as a Man
cast. And in such places, where there is scarcity
ewel, the poorer sort make use of dried Kine's dung, Tangles, which in Summers heat they prepare for the
nters cold. They have a few Salt-Pans, in some
ces, where plenty of Pites, which are very useful to
Country. At some times, much Timber, the
ack of Ships cast away at Sea, or broken on their
s, is driven ashore, which the Inhabitants seising
p for burnwood, and if good and fresh, (as some
es Ships from
Norway
suffer Shipwrack upon or nigh these Isles) they make other uses of it;
I
saw seve
Chimney pieces thereof. The more ignorant People
nstruct this as a favourable Providence to them, there
e they call these wracks,
God's send,
tho not so favour
e to the poor Mariners and others who suffer there
.
Although the Sea seemeth to favour them,
Dangerous sailing here.
by
inging such Timber, and sometimes Casks and
ogsheads of Wine, Brandy &c. to their doors, yet is turbulent swelling Sea, and strong Current of a
ide pays them home sore, for frequently thereby their
hall Passage or Fisher-Boats are cast away, sometimes
in them perishing, at other times some saved with
fficulty. And at all times it is highly dangerous,
r any not experienced with these Seas, to pass
rough between the Isles, tho with small Boats, be
use of the many blind Rocks lying there, upon which
ometimes the Inhabitants themselves do spleet, what
rough some mistake, inadvertency, darkness of the
ight or otherwise.
The Ministers inform us,
Even to the Inhabitants.
they are often in great
anger in going to their Churches from Isle to Isle, Visiting their Parishes, going to the Presbytry, &c.
ometimes, pale death, with its grim countenance,
resenting it self, and stareing them in the Face, as
ne drawn out by the hair of the Head; another escaping on the Keel of the overwhelmed Boat; Som
times they are arrested by a storm in the Isles, a
kept from their own Families for some weeks, eve
when the passage will be scarce a Mile or half a mi
over. They tell us, in the Isle of
Westra,
there w
a Marriage not long since, where about 100 Perso
were conveened from other Isles, and were detaine
for 6 or 7 weeks together, so that tho many of the
daily saw their own houses, yet they durst not adve
ture to pass over, till the falling Wind and Sea too
off their confinement.
In every Isle there is a
Wart
or
Ward-Hill,
th
highest Hill in the Isle,
The
Wart-Hill.
on the top whereof they use to kindle a fire, when they saw an Enemy approaching, or discerned any danger, that so they mig
alarm the Neighbourhood, that the dispersed Inhab
tants of the Country having thereby notice given the
might conveen for their succour, or be upon the
own Defence, which Beacons on the tops of Mountains the Scripture makes mention of, as
Isa.
30.1
And a late
Learned Author
asserteth,
Edward's Scrip. stile Vol.
3.
Chap.
4.
That great fla
with smoke rising up out of the City, which was appoint
as a sign between the Men of
Israel,
and the Lyers in wa
Judg.
20 38, 40.
seems to be meant by this.
The Proprietors of the Country.
There are several Gentlemen in
Orkney
who ha
considerable Estates, but the King is the great Proprietor, having about the one half of the Rents of t
whole Country. Which Rents are let out to Taxme
for so much per Annum, as is agreed upon at the publick Roup, who by their Deputes gather in the R
venues of the Crown, and being the Kings Stewar
they are the principal Judges of the Country. T
Rents when Collected, whether payed in Mone
Meal, Oats, Barly or Butter are ordinarly sent Sou
which causeth a great grudge among the People, some
them thereby being redacted to great straits, not getti
Meal, Barley or the like sometimes to buy, as in t
late dearth, tho then the product of these Isles, comparatively, were beyond that of many other places in
e Kingdom. The Bishops Rents amounting to 8 or
00.
Merks per Annum,
and so more considerable then
e Rents of several other Bishopricks in the Kingdom,
w since the abolition of Prelacy coming in to the
ings Treasury and at his disposal, are also sent
uth and not consumed within the Isles, as they used
rmerly to be, when the Bishops resided here, at which
e People are likewise dissatisfied, and thereby, as some
etter acquainted with their humours and inclinations do
form me, the Presbyterian Government is made the
ess acceptable to many of them.
The People greatly cry out of the Oppression they groan under,
The Peopel complain of oppression
by reason of the frequent change of Stew
rds their Masters, who being Taxmen, and so only
o continue for such a definite time, each endeavours
o gather in his Rents, and that as soon as may be, which many of the poor People cannot get so quickly given, whereupon several of them are put to doors, and all taken from them, which hath occasioned much of the King's Land now to be lying waste and lee; Whereas if they always had one Master, their Circumstances might be much better, for sometimes it so falleth out, that the Husband-Man will gain as much in one year, as will compense the loss of another, the Master likewise would be more encouraging to them, and concerned in their wellfare, and they having Leasses set them, would more endeavour the improving of their ground, which now they do not, they not knowing, but the next year they may have a new Master, whose little Finger may be thicker then his Predecessours Loyns. Yet let not my Reader judge, that
I
hereby intend the Impeachment of any particular Person or Persons, who have been Taxmen there, or now are, but my design is to shew, that this is the common complaint of the Country both in
Orkney
and
Zetland.
The Gentlemen tell us,
Their Holding.
they have another kind of Holding here, then is in other places, and the best right they have to their Lands, is that which they call
Udall right,
a Possession which the Natives successively have without either Charter or Seasin; All their Lands being either such
Udall Land
,
or
Kings Lands,
or
Fewed Lands.
This
Udall right
is said to be called from one
Ulans
King of
Norway,
who when he possessed the Countrey, gave to the Inhabitants a Right to so much Land, he alwayes retaining to himself the 3d part, and enjoying the increase thereof.
Measure.
Their measure is not the same with ours, they not useing Peck and Firlot, but in stead thereof, weigh their Corns on Pismires or Pundlers. The least quantity is called a Merk, which is 18 Ounces; 24 Merks make a Leispound or Setten, which with the
Danes
is that which we call a Stone.
Modern Account, of
Denmark.
6 Settens, a Meil, which is their Boll; And 18 Meils make a Chalder. Neither do they use Pocks or Sacks as we do; But carries and keeps their Corns and Meal in a sort of Vessels made of Straw, bound about with Ropes of the same, called
Cassies.
CHAP. III Wherein the several Isles and Parishes belonging to
Orkney,
are enumerated, and breifly described.
HAVING geven some description of
Orkney
in general,
The Number of the
Orkney Isles
I shall now give some more particular account of the several Isles thereunto belonging. Which are divided into such as are Inhabited, and so are more commonly called
Isles;
And such as are not Inhabited, which they call
Holms,
only useful for Pasturage. The Isles are said to be 26 in number, viz.
Pomona
or the
Mainland
being much larger then any of the rest
Gramsey, Hoy, Swinna, South-Ronaldsha, Burra, Lambholm, Flotta, Faira, Cava, Copinsha, Shapinsha, Damsay, Inhallo, Gairsa, Rousa, Eaglesha, Stronsa, Papa-Stronsa, Eda, North-Faira, Westra, Papa-Westra, Wyre, Sanda, and North-Ronaldsha.
To which may
e added
Poghtland Skerries,
it be
ng sometimes inhabited in the Summer time, and
Waes
which in a high
ream is divided from
Hoy,
whereunto it is joyned by low and narrow neck of Land; As also the
Calf
of
Eda,
it having a Salt Pan in it:. It may be observed
hat most of the Names of these Isles end in a or-
ey,
which in the
Teutonick Tongue
signifieth Water, to shew
hat these Isles are pieces of Land surrounded with Water.
The first is
P
mona
or the
Mainland,
Pomona
or the
Mainland.
The Town of
Kirkwal
described.
said to be 24 Miles in length
rom East to West, and in some places
or 8 Miles broad; nigh to the midle whereof is the
Toun
of
Kirkwal,
about 3 quarters of a Mile in length from South to North, the only remarkable Toun in
ll this Countrey, and beside which there is no other Royal-Burgh in
Orkney
or
Zetland;
The
Danes
who
ad the
Orcades
long in possession, called it
Cracoviaca,
which Name
Buchanan
takes to be the same with
Kirkwal
but corrupted. "Quod Dani Cracoviacam appela
bant, nunc nomine corrupto Kircua Scotis dicitur. It
andeth upon the North side of the Isle in a low and moist Ground, hence a Minister in this Countrey told me, that in several places of their large Church, where
he more respected Burgers ordinarily Bury their Dead, they can scarce dig two foot of Earth but Water will rise, so that he hath seen when they Interred the Corps
hey behoved to press them doun in the water till the Mold or Earth was cast upon them. It is now much
ecayed as to Trade and Number of Inhabitants, as many ancient Burghs in this Kingdom are. In it hath
een two stately Edifices the
King's
and the
Bishops Palace,
he former is now very ruinous being the Ancientest
f the two, built, as is thought, by some of the Bishops
f
Orkney;
It having the vestige, of a Bishops Mitre
nd Armes Engraven, upon the Wall that looks to the
reet: And in which, it is said, the Bishops, of old, had their Residence. The other, called the
Bishop's Palace,
wherein the Bishops lately lived, was built by
Patrick Stewart Earl of Orkney
Anno 1606, son to
Robe
Stewart Natural Son to King James
the 5th. This Palace i
also goeing to Ruine; Tho, with some expence, i
could be keept, in good Repair.
the Church of
Kirkwal
The Church is a very noble and large Structure; Hav
ing, in it, 14 or 15 strong Pillars, on each side, Th
teeple standing, on 4 bigger and higher Pillars, in th
midle of the Church, wherein there are several old an
good Bells. In the Easter part only, of this grea
Church, is Divine service performed, which is furnished with good Seats, for accommodating the Inhabitants and other conveniencies, proper for that end. It i
commonly called
St. Magnus Church;
being built,
at least, as some say, the foundation laid, by
Magnus King of Norway;
Whom they report, to have bee
Buried here: Tho, others say, he was Buried in
Eagle
sha,
an Isle to the North of
Kirkwal.
There are many, of this name, of
Magnus,
in this Country.
A safe Road at
Kirkwal
At
Kirkwal,
there is a safe Road; But Ships, comin
from the South, cannot get so easily into it, by reaso
that the same Wind which brings them to
Orkney,
o
ten will not suffer them to turn up to
Kirkwal,
the
being obliged to encompass a point of Land stretchin
to the North-East before they can make the Road,
that frequently they ly at
Elwick
or
Deer-Sound
tw
Anchoring places to the East or North-East of
Kirw
until that the Wind shall favour them.
Goodgrass and Corn, in some places of the
Mainland.
The
Kings House
in
E
a
On the
Mainland
good Corns do grow in several pl
ces, tho likewayes there be much moorish Ground, b
the pleasentest part of the Isle
I
take to be the West e
thereof, about
Birsa, Hara, Sandwick
and
Stromness,
whe
there are several spots well furnished with Grass a
Corn. In the Parish of
Birsa
is the Kings House situat
on a plain Champain Ground on the West end of t
Mainland,
nigh to the Sea or
Deucaledonian Ocean,
whi
rmerly when in order hath had several pleasant and di
erting Avenues about it. At a large quarter of a Miles
istance to the south, we saw the pleasantest mixture of
owans so commonly called or Daisies white and yellow
n every side of the way growing very thick, and co
ering a considerable piece of the Ground; that ever
ve had occasion to see. The Palace was Built in form
f a Court by
Robert Stewart Earl of Orkney,
about the
ear 1574, it is two stories high, the upper hath been
rettily decored, the Ceiling being all Painted, and
hat for the most part with Schems holding forth scrip
ure-Histories, as
Noah's Floud, Christ's Riding to Jer
salem
&c. And the scripture is set doun beside the Fi
ure: It was Inhabited within these 20 Years, but is
ow fast decaying. When we entered the Palace gate, we
w above it, that Inscription so much talk
of, and re
uted treasonable by "King James the 6th: Robertus
Steuartus Filius Jacobi 5ti Rex Scotorum hoc Aedifici
um instruxit, which inscription could not but offend
he lawful Heir of the Croun, for it cannot well be
hought that the Earl and all about him, were such blunderers in the Latine Tongue as to put doun
Rex
in stead of
Regis,
if there had been no design in it. Within
he Palace we saw also the Motto above his Arms,
Sic
uit, est, & erit.
which was a piece of too great arrogancy
or any Man to assume that unto himself, which properly belongs to the Son of GOD, whose wise Judgement is not unworthy of our Remark, that now only
t can be said of his House and Family, now extinct.
Dan. 4.37.
ic suit:
Which that great King
Nebuchadnezar
knew
o his experience,
That these who walk in pride, God is able to abase.
Among other pleasant places in this West end of the
Mainland
we may take notice of
Kirfal-Hill,
Kirfal Hill
a litle to the East of the House of
Brachness
in the Parish of
Sandwick,
which is very large on the top, and plain almost like a Bowling-Green, so that 9 or 10000 Men could easily be drawn up in order thereupon: It is all over very green without any Heath or such like growing there neither are there any rising Hillocks on it, that we could discern, as ordinarly are to be seen on other Hills; and because of it's being so very pleasant the Inhabitants about call it
Chearful-Hill,
Loch
of
Stennis.
Within a few Miles also of he West-end of the
Mainland
is the Loch of
Stenni:
the largest in
Orkney,
whereon are some Mills; some Trouts, and Salmon-Gilses are found in it, and the Brooks that run from it.
Several good Harbours on the
Mainland.
Beside
Kirkwal-Road,
there are several other Harbours or Bays on the
Mainland,
wherein Ships can safely ly, as one at
Kerston
a small Village, at the West end of the
Main-land,
much frequented by Ships going to the West of
Scotland,
or
Ireland,
or coming therefrom: Another is at
Holms-sound
towards the South-East side of the Isle, to which sometimes Barks do resort from the South; several Ships also going through Land from the South to the West-Sea, drop Anchor here; and when they pass, they must Sail between
Lambholm
a litle Isle in the
Sound,
and the
Mainland;
for the way on the other side between
Lambholm
and
Burra,
tho it seem more open, yet it is, they say, shallow and dangerous: But none I think will dare to Sail through these Isles without some measure both of skill and experience, else it will be to the hazard of their lives, and the loss of Ship and Cargo; There being several Turnings, Blind-Rocks, and Shallows: Wherefore many do judge it the safest Course, to keep the Wide-Sea, and so Sail without the Isles, especially if the Weather be not well set and promising. Another convenient Road is at
Deer-sound
to the East of the
Mainland
where a great Bay commodious for Navies to ride in. Some other Harbours and Bays also there are upon the
Mainland,
but these are the most remarkable.
A Ship cast away.
Nigh to the point of
Deer-Ness
some Years ago was cast away a Ship transporting some Prisoners to
America,
who were for the most part West-Country Men apprehended, Emprisoned and then Banished for adhering to Presbyterian Principles; There were, as is said,
ove 100 who Perished being kept under the Hatches,
ed together by pairs, whereas if they had been at li
rty, the greatest part if not all might have been sav
, as a few were, then upon Deck, with the Mari
ers. The Countrey People here did and do think that
e Captain of the Ship willingly suffered her to drive
on this point, and the Men there to Perish, and if so, is probable that others tho not Aboard, have been
ncerned in this mischievous desing, as the Authors
d Abettours thereof.
In the
Mainland
are
Parishes but 13 Kirks,
The Isle of
Copinsha.
for
any Ministers in
Orkney
have 2 and some 3 Kirks,
herein they ordinarily Preach by turns, the first is
eerness
and St
Andrews
at the East-end of the Isle,
here two Kirks, one at
Deerness
and another at St
ndrews,
wherein their Minister Preacheth by turns,
re live the Lairds of
New-work
and
Tankerness;
Under
s Ministers inspection also is
Copinsha
a litle Islle to
e East of the
Main,
wherein a few Families, some
rn-Land and Pasturage: It at a litle distance appears
be as an high Rock conspicuous to Sea Men, but it
clineth and lieth low towards the West: To the North
st of it lieth a Holm called the
Horse
of
Copinsha.
The next Parish is
Holm,
also on the East of the
ain
to the West of
Deerness
and St
andrews,
The Isle of
Lambholm.
wherein is
t one Kirk; In this Parish liveth the Laird of
Graham
ll.
To their Ministers Charge belongeth
Lambholm
itle Isle to the South of the
Main,
wherein a Familie
two. North-West from
Holm,
the Parish and Town
Kirkwal
lieth, where one Church, but they should
ve two Ministers. A part of their Charge is called
e Parish of St
Ola.
To the West of
Kirkwal
is
Orph
where is but one Kirk. To the North-West of
kwal
lieth
Firth
and
Stennis
having two Kirks, where
their Minister Preacheth
per vices
or by turns.
The Isle of
Damsey.
To this
rish belongs
Damsey,
a litle Isle. To the North of
th
and
Stennis,
is
Evie
and
Rendal
having two Kirks,
erein their Minister Preacheth
per vices,
To this Parish belongeth
Gairsey
a litle pleasant Isle,
The Isle of
Gairsey.
wherein
eth Sir
William Craig
of
Gairsey
To the West of
Evie
and
Rendal
is
Hara
and
B
where are two Kirks, in which the Minister Preache
per vices; the King's House is in
Birsa
as abovesa
Next to
Birsa
to the South-West is
Sandwick
and
Stro
ness,
wherein are two Kirks, which their Minister go
to
per vices.
To
Stromness
belongeth
Kerston,
wh
the best Harbour in
Orkney,
and by reason it is daily i
creasing as to Houses and number of Inhabitants, (w
are encouraged to dwell here upon the account of t
many Ships that do frequent this Port, and often tarry
sometime;) the Minister and Gentlemen concur in suplicating Judicatories competent, that
Kerston
wi
some of the Countrey adjacent, may be erected into
Parish by it self, that so the Inhabitants of the pl
and strangers resorting thereunto, may be served wi
Preaching, and other parts of the Pastoral Work; th
present Church at
Stromness
being 4 Miles distant fro
them, wherein also they can have Sermon, but eve
other Sabbath. In
Sandwick
lives the Laird of
Brach
▪
To the South of
Stromness
and
Sandwick
lieth
Hoy
Waes,
which ordinarly make but one Isle, tho someti
by a high Sream overflowing the low and narrow pa
age.
The Isle of
Hoy,
and
Waes.
whereby they are joyned to one another. they
divided into two; The Isle is about 10 or 12 Miles lo
from West to East.
Waes
at the East-end of the Isle better inhabited, then
Hoy
at the West-end thereof, lying lower, and so fitter for Pasturage and labour
g whereas
Hoy
is more Mountainous, only having so
Houses on the skirts of the Hills, by the Coasts, a
some Corn Land about their Houses. The
H
of
Hoy
is the highest in
Orkney,
whence we have a
prospect of all the circumjacent Isles, as also of
Caith
▪ Stranaver, Sutherland
&c. On the South side of
P
g
land Firth,
yet tho it be so high, it cannot hold
what some do assert, that from this Hill is to be seen
Sun all the Night over in the Moneth of
June
when
out the Tropick of Cancer, for seeing the Sun is
several hours seen above the Horizon the shortest
of Winter, he must necessarly be so far depressed, shortest Night in Summer, so that his Body cannot
be seen, tho something of a clear light may be
erned, as it were accompanying the Sun from his sett
to his rising point, by reason of the reflexion and action of his Rayes upon and through the Sea, he
ping so litle below their Horizon: For the further
strating of this, the Ministers of the Northern-Isles
Orkney
told me, that in the Moneth of
June
they will
to Read small Print or Write at mid-night; And in
cember
for some Dayes they can neither see to Read
Write, unless that they light a Candle, as one of
m attested from his experience. To the South of the
try into the Sound between
Hoy
and
Kerston
in the
ainland
is the
Comb
of
Hoy,
the highest Rock in
Orkney,
looking to the West or
Deucaledeman Ocean
much
quented by Sea-Fouls.
The Minister of
Hoy
hath two Kirks,
The Isle of
Gramsey.
one in
Hoy
and other in
Gramsey,
a little pleasant Isle about a Mile
ng, lying to the North of
Hoy,
between it and
Kerston
the
Mainland,
but Ships that go through this Sound
e to Sail between
Gramsay
and the
Mainland,
the way
tween
Gramsay
and
Hoy
being very dangerous. The
inister of
Waes
hath two Kirks,
The Isle of
Flotta Faira,
and
Cava.
one in
Waes
and an
her in
Flotta,
a pleasant litle Isle, and as capable of
provement as any Isle in
Orkney; Faira
and
Cava
also
o other litle Isles are a part of his Charge, these Isles
to tha East of
Waes
and
Hoy.
Nigh to the East of
Waes
and
Hoy
lyes
South-Ronald
a
5 Miles long from North to South,
The Isle of
South-Ronaldsha.
and about two
oad in several places, it is the Southernmost of all the Isles of
Orkney,
and very Fertile and populous, at
he South-end thereof is
Burwick,
whence the ordinary
assage is to
Duncansbay
in
Caithness
over
Pightland Firth.
Their Minister hath three Kirks, two in
South-Ronald
ha,
one at the South-end of the Isle, called our
Lady's-Kirk,
and another at the North-end called
St Pe
Kirk.
The Isle of
Burra.
He hath a 3d Kirk in
Burra
a pleasant litle Isl
the North of
South-Ronaldsha,
wherein much Cornla
and many Rabbets: in this Isle liveth Sir
Archb
Steuart.
The Isle of
Swinna.
To this Parish belonges
Swinna
a little Isle
Pightland-Firth,
of which more afterward, when
come to discourse of
Pightland-Firth.
The Isle of
Shapinsha.
To the North of the
Mainland
lyes the Northern Is
as
Shapensha
to the North-East 4 or 5 Miles long, this Parish belongs but one Kirk, It hath a safe Harbour at
Elwick
on the South of the Isle: Here is t
House of the
Sound
which looketh well, and hath a plea
Situation on a rising Ground, lying to the South.
Isles of
Stronsa,
and
Papa Stronsa.
To the North-East, from
Shapinsha
lyeth
Stronsa
bout 4 or 5 Miles long, it is well Inhabited, and t
Grass and Corns are good:
Papa Stronsae
is a litle I
over against it towards North-East, wherein but o
Family, between
Papa-Stronsa
and
Stronsa
is a safe Ha
bour or Bay, well fenced by
romontories or Capes
Land, it is said to be the best North-bound Harbour
all the Northern Isles. Opposite to
Stronsa
to North-West lyes
Eda
about 4 Miles of length from North t
South,
The Isle of
Eda.
it is full of Moss and Moor, and but thinly Inhabited: Some of the Neighouring Isles get their Pite
hence. In it a Loch and Mill. To the North-East o
Eda
is the
Ca
f,
a Holm so called; between which an
Eda
is
Calf-Sound
a convenient and safe Road. The Mini
ter of
Stronsa
and
Eda
hath two Kirks one in
Stronsa
an
another in
Eda
where he Preacheth every 3d Sabbath To the West of
Eda
lyes
North-Fatra
a litle pleasant Isl
wherein a few Families.
The Isle of
North-Fatra.
The House of
Calf-Sound.
On the East side of
Eda,
stands a House built b
John Stewart
Earl of
Carrick, An.
1633. Some
whose Off spring are yet living in the neighbourin
Isles, the occasion of his coming and living in this remote corner, is reported to have been some disconte
which tell out between him and his Lady; He built a
a great Expence 12 Salt-Pans in the
Calf
of
Eda,
ov
against his house, which for some time were all at
ork, he designing to have driven a Foreign Trade
ith his Salt, but he dying after a few years abode
ere, the House and Pans not being keept in Repair
ent to ruine, so that now only one Salt-Pan is stand
g. Thus his Project died with himself.
To the N East of
Eda
is
Sanda
the pleasantest I
ink, of the
Orkney
Isles,
The Isle of
Sanda.
9 or 10 Miles long from
uth to North, in many places a Mile or a mile and
half, and in some scarce half a mile broad, having
veral tongues of Land washen by the Sea; hence some
o compare it to the shape of a Lobster: No place in the
le is high and Mountainous, and many spots of it are
ery plain, and even like a Bowling-Green, every
here it is well furnished with Grass, and muc
good
orn, said to be the best in
Orkney;
It alone payeth to
e King 42 Chalders of Victual, every one of which
h
lders is 21 Bolls of our Measure; The whole Isle
but as one rich Cuningar or a Cony Warren, for I
ever saw a greater number of Conies runing in any
lace then I did here; Hence the Heretors kill
everal hundreds of them yearly for their use. There
e several Bays for Ships as
Kitletoft, O
terswick
and
aphness Bay.
Some Gentlemen also who have consi
erable Interests as
Burgh, Lapness &c:
Many Fowls
equent this Isle, as Duck and Drake, Plover, &c.
o that there is good sport for the Fowler. The Stir
ns or Stares are as numerous I judge, as the Spar
ows are with us.
In
Sanda
are two Ministers, one having one Kirk
alled
Lady-Kirk,
on the East side of the Isle towards
he North end thereof, in this Isle are some sober,
nowing, and good People; particularly in this Lady Parish in the former Presbyterian times, there was a Godly Zealous Minister, Mr.
Arthur Murray,
who went South after the Revolution
An.
1660 and died
here, some of the old people yet alive, who were un
er his Ministry cannot speak of him without Tears The Righteous shall he had in everlasting rememberance. The other Minister hath under his inspection three Kirks, two in
Sanda, Cross Kirk,
and
Burness,
and one in
North-Ronaldsha,
an Isle to the North of
Sanda
two or three Miles long. Both these Isles of
Sanda
and
North-Ronalsha
ly low,
The Isle of
North Ronalsha.
and dangerous for Seamen, who cannot discover them at any distance especially in a misty day or dark night, till close upon them, and so are ready to suffer Ship wrack, as many do:
The Isle of
Westra.
To the West of
Sanda
lyes,
Westra
seven Miles long it is well Inhabited, having much Corn in it; here is
F
tta Hill
where they say the Fairies are frequently seen, it is the highest hill in all the Northern Isles of
Orkney.
In the North end of this Isle is the Castle of
Noutland,
built by
Gilbert Balfour
for the use o
James Hepburn
Earl of
Bothwell,
The
Castle
of
Noutland.
Married to
Queen Mary
the 27 of
May An.
1567 in the
Abbey of Holy Roodhouse
who fearing he should not always retain and enjoy his present Grandure, which the Nobles envied him for, he likewise being suspected guilty of the Murder of my Lord
Darli
her former Husband caused build this strong Castle, which upon a change of the Scene, he might betake himself unto, situated upon a Rock nigh to the Deucaledonian Ocean, having plain Champain ground about it; It is 4 Stories high and the lowest is strongly Vaulted, above, which i
a large Hall, having two Air-holes through the Arch, so to give a vent to the Pouder, if at any time they showld be surprised with a blast, the walls ar
very thick, and all the free stone for the building was brought from the South: The Roof is flat and fenced with Rayls of Stone, whence we have a sai
view of the circumjacent Country, There are severa
hols or slits in the Building, not only to let in the light, but to gall an approaching Enemy with smal shot, if at any time they should be attacked: But the Lord often taking the Sinner in his own craftiness
uffered him not so to escape, by sheltering himself in this Nest; This Castle was never compleated, for in one part thereof, the Walls are but half the height in
ended, and never hitherto covered with a Roof, and
e being pursued by the Lords of the Congregation, never possessed it, or so much as saw it, if not at a distance, for he taking himself to Sea with two or three Ships came to
Kirkwal
in
Orkney,
and being driven thence by
William Kircaldy
of
Grange,
he fled to
Zetland,
where the Pursuer had almost overtaken him, if the Pilots skill in these Seas had not made a way to escape, in holding down by the side of a blind Rock well enough known to the Pilot, which the Pursuer ignorant of spleet upon; which Rock to this day is called the
Ʋ nicorn,
from the Name of the Ship that perished upon it.
Bothwel
escaped to
Norway
where being apprehended, he was taken to
Denmark,
and cast into a filthy Prison, where he died after 10 years Imprisonment: His wicked life having this miserable end: Tho hand join in hand the wicked shall not go unpunished; and ordinarly Murder, (whereof he was suspected to be guilty,) so cryeth from the ground, that it bringeth down remarkable and often tremendous Judgments in time. There are several Gentlemens Houses in
Westra.
The Minister of
Westra
hath three Churches wherein he Preacheth
per vices,
two in
Westra,
one at the west end of the Isle called the
West-Kirk,
and another nigh to the North end called the
North-Kirk,
the third Church is in
Papa-Westra
a little Isle of 3 Miles long from South to North;
The Isle of
Papa-Westra.
Betwixt it and
Westra
there is a convenient Harbour for Ships at
Piriwa;
As also in the same Sound a little to the North of this Harbour lyes a holm wherein there hath been a little Chapel, whereof some of the ruinous Walls are yet to be seen.
Papa-Westra
aboundeth with Rabbets, and hath some Corn Land, but not so much as some other Isles, it being hard and stonny ground; It belongeth to a Gentleman called
Holland,
and hath been reputed famous for
St. Trodwells Chappel
and
Loch
or
Lake.
To the Ea
of this Isle lyeth the Holm, where the
Easter Men
had their Hutts as above.
The Isle of
Rousa.
To the South of
Westra
lyes
Rousa
an Isle 6 Miles long, full of heathy Hills, abounding with Moor Fowls, there is not much corn in it, and but thinly inhabited. There is a Loch and Mill thereon that goeth ordinarily all the Summer over, which is rare in these Isles. The Minister of
Rousa
hath two Kirks, one in
Rousa
and another in
Eglesha,
The Isle of
Eglesha.
a pleasant Isle two Mil
s long, where a Church much frequented by superstitious People with a high Steeple seen at a great distance, where, (as some would have it,)
St. Magnus
was buried. To his Charge also belongs
Inhallo,
The Isle of
Inhallo.
a little Isle to the West of
Rousa,
also
Wyre
a small Isle.
The Number of Parishes.
Thus
I
have glanced at the Description of the
Orcades;
most of which
I
have had occasion to see, wherein we see there are 17. Parishes, 8. in the
Mainland,
Viz.
Kirkwall, Holm, Deerness
and
St. Andrews, Evie
and
Rendat, Firth
and
Stennis, Orphir, B
rsa
and
Hara, Sandwick
and
Stromness,
and 9. in the other Isles, Sciz.
South Ronalsha
and
Burra, Waes
and
Flotta, Hoy
and
Gramsey, Shapinsha, Stronsa
and
Eda, Lady Kirk
in
Sanda, Cross Kirk
and
Burness in Sanda,
and
North Ronalsha, Westra
and
Papa Westra, Rousa
and
Eglesha;
But there are 31. Kirks; And these Ministers look upon themselves as more happily posted, who have only one Kirk, especially if they have not more Kirks in several Isles, this tending more to the Edification of the People under their Charge, and consequently to their peace and encouragement, they every Lords Day dispensing Ordinances in the same place, to the same People, whereas these who have more Kirks committed to them are sometimes obliged to preach in one place and sometimes in another, and the People generally frequent but their ou
Kirk, especially if they be in different Isles, hence ordinarily they enjoy the Ordinances only every other Sabbath, and in some places
t one of three, which cannot but obstruct the pro
ss of the Gospel, among them. Besides it is uneasy,
ensive and dangerous for them to travel from Isle to
e, and sometimes a storm arising they are necessarily
ained there. The stipends here are small, and for
most part payed by the Stewart or his Depute, the
ng being the principal Proprietour, yet they can
e very well upon them, Victuals being had at an
ie rate.
The People are generally tractable,
People respectful of their Ministers.
submissive and
pectful to their Ministers, which is very desirable
d encouraging to these who labour among them,
hen true Zeal enlargeth the desires, and putteth an
ge upon the Spirits of Pastors in the discharge of the
rd's
Work for the good of Souls.
CHAP. IV.
ome things remarkable in
Orkney,
as Ancient Monuments, strange Providences &c. are represented.
HAving taken a view of the Countrey in general,
Things remarkable in
Orkney.
and the several Isles in particular, I shall now di
ert my Reader with some things remarkable, not together unworthy of our Observation, such as some
ncient Monuments, strange Accidents, and some
her things not only curious and delectable, but also
ofitable to the Judicious; affording matter "of meditation to the wise Observers of these things, who regard the Works of the Lord, and duely ponder the operation of his hands, in the years of Ancient and Latter times.
The first we take notice of is the Stone,
The Dw
rfie Stone.
called the
warfie Stone,
lying in a Valley between two Hills, to
e North of the Hill of Hoy, it is about 34. foot long,
6. or 17. broad and 8. thick, hollowed by the hand of some Mason, as the Print of the Mason-Irons do
shew, it hath a square hole for the Entry, looking
the East, 2. foot high, with a stone proportionab
standing before this Entry at 2. foot distance, with at one end is hewen out a bed with a pillow, where two Persons may ly almost at their full length, opp
site to this at the other end, is something also hew
out like a Couch, between which Bed and Couch the
is a large Hole above about the bigness of the Entry through which a Person may come up to the top
the Stone, and might serve, for a Vent to the smok
if so be they had put any fire upon a Hearth betwe
the two Beds. Beneath this stone runs to the South
cold and pleasant spring which might afford drink
the Inhabitant. Who hewed this stone, or for wh
use it was we could not learn, the Common Traditi
among the People is, That a Giant with his Wi
lived in this Isle of
Hoy,
who had this stone for the
Castle. But I would rather think, seeing it could
accomodate any of a Gigantick stature, that it mig
be for the use of some Dwarf, as the Name seems import, or it being remote from any House might the retired Cell of some Melancholick Hermite. T
stone also may be called the
Dwarfie Stone, per A
phrasin
or by way of Opposition it being so
great.
Something shines wonderfully on the
Wart-Hill of Hoy.
To the North-West of this Stone is an high Mo
tain of a steep Ascent called the
Wart-Hill of Hoy,
loo
ing to the North; Nigh to the top of which Hill ab
Mid-Day, is seen something and that at a good
stance, which glitters and shines wonderfully, a
tho some have climbed up and searched for it,
could find nothing: It shines most in the summer ti
The People talk of it as some enchanted Carb
cle: Others take it to be a Water that reflecteth
Sun's Rays, and so causeth such a sparkling and spl
dour; But a Gentleman who liveth nigh to
Rock told us, that is shines most in the greatest Drought,
hen no Water is near it.
At the West end of the Mainland,
A street of stones of different figures.
about a Mile
d an half to the West of the House of
Skeal,
on the
p of high Rocks, there is something like a street,
ear to a Quarter of a Mile in length, and between
, and 30. foot in breadth, all laid with Stones of
fferent Figures and Magnitudes, of a Reddish co
ur: some of which stones bear the Image and Repre
ntation of a
Heart,
others of a
Crown,
others of a
hoe,
a
Leg,
a
Last,
a
Weavers Shuttle
&c. And that
hich renders it yet the more strange is, when these
ones are raised many of them have the same figure and
ape below on the one side, that they have above on
e other; which street all beholders look on as very wonderful.
I
saw a part of the Garden Wall of the House of
Skeal,
decored in the forepart thereof with
hese stones, we intended to have sent a parcel of them
outh to our Friends as a rarity, if they had not been
orgot at our return from
Zetland.
Whether these
tones be so laid and figured by Art or by Nature will
e hard to determine. For there is no House nigh to
his street, neither are the ruines of any which former
y have been there, to be seen. So puzling are the Works of God to the most ingenious and accurate observers of Providence.
At the Loch of
Stennis
in the
Mainland,
A Circle of stones;
in that part thereof, where the Loch is Narrowest, both on the West and East side of the Loch, there is a Ditch; within which there is a Circle, of large and high stones
erected: The larger Round is on the West-side, above
00 paces Diameter: the Stones set about in form of
Circle within a large Ditch, are not all of a like quantity and Size, tho some of them, I think, are upwards of 20. foot high above ground, 4 or 5. foot broad, and a foot or two thick, some of which stones are fallen, but many of them are yet standing, between which there is not an equal distance, but many of them are about 10. or 12. foot distant from
other. On the other side of the Loch over which
pass by a Bridge laid with stones after the manner of street, the Loch there being shallow, are two ston
standing, of a like bigness with the rest, whereof o
hath a round hole in the midst of it, at a little distan
from which stones, there is another Ditch, about ha
a Mile from the former, but of a far less Circumferenc
within which also there are some stones standing something bigger then the other stones on the We
side of the Loch, in form of a Semicircle, I think rather then of a Circle, opening to the East, for I s
no stones that have fallen there save one, which wh
standing, did complete but the Semicircle. Both
the East and West end of the bigger Round, are tw
green Mounts, which appear to be Artificial: In on
of which Mounts were found,
Mr Wallace Desc
iption of Orkney.
saith Mr.
Wallace
9.
Fibulae
of silver, round, but opening in one plac
like to a Horse-shoe.
It is most probably thought that, these were the High Places in times of
Pagan Idolatry,
whereon sacrifice were offered, and that the two Artificial Mounts o
Earth, served for the same purpose, or were the places where the Ashes of the Sacrifices were cast, as som
w
I have
Bo
thius
in the Life of
Ma
nu
King o
Scot
observeth, That the People called these hug
stones drawn together in the form of a Circle, the Ancient Temples of the Gods,
Beeth in vitam Mains.
Ʋ t Populus ad Religionem mov
entur priscis sacris novas quasdam & solenne
Ce
en on
as superaddidit (Rex nimi
um Mainus) Du
Im
mo ta
ibus peragendas, ut immensis saxis varus in Regionu
locis (ut res exposcebat) in coronidem admotis, eorumqu
maximo ad Meridiem porrecto, cujus pro ara foret usus
Victimae ibi Diis immortalibus sacrificium cremarentur. Ex
tantum
i fidem, vel hoc nostro avo ingentia ea saxa auct
in Circo , prisca Deorum Phana Vulgus appellar.
Many o
the Countrey do say, That in the larger Round th
Sun, and in the lesser the Moon was Worshipped by
e old Pagan Inhabitants of these Isles.
And indeed to build their Altars of earth or unpo
hed stones seems to have been the custom of Ancient
mes, and even of the first Ages of the
Rom: Empire,
Apologet Chap.
25.
the Learned
Spencer
endeavours to prove from "Tertullian, Etsi a Numa concepta est curi
sitas superstitiosa, nondum tamen aut Simulacris aut Templis res Divina apud Romanos constabat. Frugi Religio & pauperes ritus, & nulla Capitolia certantia coelo;
Spencer. de Legihus Hebraeorum.
sed temeraria de cespite Altaria, & vasa adhuc Samia, &
nidor ex illis, & Deus ipse nusquam.
And further confirming the same from
Cluverius
writing of the
German Antiquities. And concludes with giving the Rea
n why the Gentiles of old were so taken with rude,
digested, artless and unpolished Altars and places of
orship, because they Judged them more holy and
ore acceptable to the Gods: "Gentes antiquae, saith
he, Natura vel Traditione doctae, naturalia omnia
rudia licet & impolita, sanctiora & Diis suis gratiom crediderunt, And here in these Monuments nothing
ke Art or Form: the Stones are not polished nor all of
like thickness, height or breadth, nor of an equal di
tance from each other.
In the Isle of
Sanda
there is a Chappel called the
Chappel of C
et,
wherein there is a Grave 19. foot long,
Great bones found in
Sanda.
which when opened some years ago, there was nothing
ound in it save the piece of a Back-bone of a Man,
reater then the Back-bone of any Horse. This the Minister of the place declared unto me, who saw the Grave opened, and measured it from the Head to the
oot stone thereof, who also for some time had the
one in his Custody. The vulgar Tradition is that
here was a Giant there, who was of so tall a stature
hat he could have stood upon the ground and put the Copstone upon the Chappel, which no Man now liv
ng by far could do.
And in
Westra.
There are also Bones found in
Westra
between
Tukey
and the
West Church,
as great as Horse-bones, as the Minister of Westra informed me. And some there have been lately of a Gigantick stature in these Isles: A
that Man who died not long since, whom for hi
height they commonly called the
Meikle Man of Waes.
Several
Obelisks
through the Countrey.
Through this Countrey we find several
Obelsiks
o
very high and great stones set up, as one in the Isle o
Eda,
another on the Mainland within a Mile of
B
&c. they appear to be much worn, by the washing o
Wind and Rain, which shewes they are of a long standing, and it is very strange to think how in these place
and times they got such large stones carried and erected
Mirabile profecto quisquis ea spectaverit,
Boeth. in vitam Ma
us.
quâ art
quibus Corporis viribus lapides tantâ mole in unu
locum fuerint congesti.
The Reason and End of their setting up cannot be certainly known, however we may conjecture, that probably it was in remembrance of som
famous Battle, or hath been the Ancient Funeral Monuments of some renouned Persons, who have fallen i
Battle or been buried there. Several of which stone and Monuments are to be seen in many places through
Scotland;
and in
Norway
they are very common, a
our Travellers who have seen them, inform me. An
it is like these stones have been set up by the Norvegians, when they possessed this Countrey.
The Bishops of
Orkney
at their, 1st. Landing used to be presented with a large Cup full of strong drink.
In
Scapha
about a Mile from
Kirkwal
to South-We
it is said there was kept a large and ancient Cup, whic
they say, belonged to St
Magnus King of Norway,
wh
first instructed them in the Principles of the
Christian Rel
gion
and founded the
Church
of
Kirkwal,
with which fu
of some strong drink their Bishops at their first Landin
were presented; which if he drank out, they highly prai
ed him, and made themselves to beleive, that the
should have many good and fruitful Years in his tim
This
Buchannan
relates, and as Mr.
Wallace
observet
is still believed there, and talkt of as a truth.
Scyphu
habent antiquum, saith Buchannan, quem Divi Magn
qui primus ad eos Christi doctrinam attulit, fuisse praed cant; Is cum ita superet communium Poculorum amplitudinem, ut e Lapitharum Convivio reservatus videri possit, eo suos Episcopos initio ad se adventantes explorant: Qui plenum uno haustu ebiberit (quod admodum raro evenit) miris cum laudibus prosequuntur, atque hinc velut laeto Augurio sequentium Annorum proventum animis praecipiunt.
The Countrey
o this Day have the Tradition of this, but we did not
e the Cup; Nor could we learn where it was. And
deed that which renders this the more credible, is
at the
Norvegians
at present as Merchants and Mari
ers inform us, have a custom like unto this, that if any
ome to pay them a visite, especially if they be strangers,
hey use to present them with a large Cup full of drink which they take not well, if their guests drink not out. They say, some of these Cups will contain three Mutchkins, others a Pint, and some a Quart of our Measure.
The Wind, and Sea,
The Sea in a storm beats most vehemently on the Rocks.
in any storm beats most tempestuously and vehemently, here upon the Rocks: a
ittle to the West of
Kerston
in the
Mainland,
there is a Rock called the
Black Craig of Stromness,
about 70 Fathoms high; Upon which in a Storm the Sea from the
Deucaledonian Ocean
doth beat with such violence and force, that the Waves breaking thereupon, cause the Water to rise to the top of the Rock like Snow and flee like a whit Sheet before the Wind. blasting the Corns for 3 or 4 Miles behind the Rock, if it fall out In, or a little before Harvest; And this it doth likewise in several other places of the Countrey, as some Gentlemen who knew it to their experience, did declare. Yea so great is the violence of these Tempestuous Seas, that thereby some great Stones are cast out, and others are worn, so that large Caves in some places run from the Sea within the Rock, beneath the Ground for some considerable way, I saw one of these at the East-end of the
Mainland
in the Parish of
Holm,
it is all covered above with the Rock and Earth, save that within these few Years, some of the Rock and Earh fell in, or was blown up (as they ca
it) in one night, by a violent Storm blowing from Sou
East, hence now there is a hole in the Hill above, lik
the Eye of a Coal-pit, which is terrible to look do
into: There is another, something like this in
Sou
-Ronalsha.
In these Caves, Doves and Sea Fowls in gre
numbers use to Nestle.
Several strange Fishes sometimes seen here; and little Whales &c.
Several strange Fishes are here taken, or cast ashor
sometimes, which are, they say, very beautiful to loo
upon, but we never had occasion to see any of them There are likewise a great number of little Whales, whic
sweem through these Isles, which they call spout-Whale or Pellacks, some of which I have seen; and they tel
us it is dangerous for Boats to fall in among them, le
they be overturned by them: The former Year Anno 1699. There were 13 of these Whales driven ashor
upon
Gairsay's Land,
and 11 upon
Eglesha's,
about on
time, as the Gentlemen themselves did inform me, o
which Oyl is made, very benificial to the Masters of th
Ground. The Ottars also, Seals or Selchs, and othe
such Sea-Creatures are very numerous, but now thei
number is so much diminished, that not one o
Twenty is to be seen, and they have found severa
of them lying dead upon the Shore; some hence observing that the Judgements of GOD as to scarcity of suitable Provisions to these Creatures, are upo
the Waters also.
The Tides Rapid,
The Tides here are so rapid that they will carry
Ship alongs with them, tho the Wind be contrary,
not very strong, and in going among these Isles, scarc
are they out of one Tide, when they are engaged in an
other; and in going from place to place they will find sonetimes the same Flood for them, and at other times against them, and so with the Ebb. Especially there are some impetuous Tides which they call
Rousts,
caused by the strong current of a Tide meeting with a narrow passage; the quickness and rapidity, of the Tide, compensing the narrowness of the passage, as it is in Lanes, which
tens the blowing Wind, and makes the Wind, to
w so much the harder, in a proportion to the pres
e it suffers by the straits of the Lane; So may we
on concerning the Rousts which run among the Isles.
ave seen some of these Rousts boyl like unto a seeth
ot, with their high, white, and broken Waves and
t in a calm Summer Day, when there was no Wind
wing. At one time Sailing by the side of
Lasha Roust
ween
Sanda
and the
Calf of Eda,
the Roust getting
ne hold of us, turned about the head of our Boat
y quickly, and tho there were 4 able young Men
ing, beside the help we had by the Sail, we could
without great difficulty make our way through it:
hey tell us, that if the greatest Ship in
Britain
fell into
s Roust, where it is strongest, it would turn her ab
at its pleasure, and detain her till the Tide fell weak,
n tho she had a right favourable Gale. These Rousts
more dangerous in an Ebb then in a Flood, the Ebb
ng observed still,
taeteris paribus,
to make the foulest
t most Tempestuous Sea, and especially they'le Foam and
g, if the Tide be running in the Winds eye: And when
re is any storm, they will cause any Ship or Boat to stand end and be ready to sink her in the fall. Several of which
usts we had occasion to meet with, but the Lord
ought us safe through.
Tho the General Current of the Tide be still the
e, from West to East in a Flood,
Some strange Rema
ks about the Tides.
and from East to
est in an Ebb, yet running with violence upon the
nd, they cause a contrary motion in the Sea next to
which they call
Easter
or
Wester Birth,
according to Course. And there are some things which have been
served as very strange in the running of the Tides,
that it flows two hours sooner on the West side of
nda
then it doth on the East: And at
Hammoness
in
e same
sle, both Ebb and Flood runns one way ex
pt at the b
ginning of a quick stream, when for 2 or 3
ures the Flood runs South; in
North Faira
the Sea Ebbs 9 hours, and Flows but 3 But the reasons of
Phenomena will not be so intricate or hard to res
if we consider the situation of these Isles, whe
Tide see
s to alter his Course, for the Flood co
from the West, to the West side of
San
a,
it t
some time before it can get about the point
the Isle to the South side thereof, so in
North
the Sea is more open whence the Flood cometh, the Ebb runeth through several Isles, turning m
points of Land before it come to
North Faira,
w
cannot but retard its motion: So at
Hammoness Sanda,
the Situation of the place much determineth running of the Tide.
The rapid motion of these Tides makes sailing dangerous.
The rapid motion of these Tides among the Isle
and their meeting with one another makes it very d
gerous, and sometimes more especially in a Calm, a Minister there told us, that he was never near death in his Life, then in a de
d Calm, when night
Westra,
for they saw the Sea coming, which th
thought should swallow them up, and there being
Wind they could not get out of the way, but God so
dered it in his wise Providence, that the Sea or sw
of the Sea which they feared, broke on the fore-pa
of the Boat, and so they escaped.
There are frequently
F
n-men
seen here upon t
Coasts,
Finmen
frequently seen here.
as one about a year ago on
S
onsa,
and an
ther within these few Months on
Westra,
a Gentleman with many others in the Isle looking on him nig
to the shore, but when any endeavour to apprehen
them, they flee away most swiftly; Which is ver
strange, that one Man sitting in his little Boat, shou
come some hundred of Leagues, from their ow
Coasts, as they reckon
Finland
to be from
Orkney;
may be thought wonderfull how they live all th
time, and are able to keep the Sea so long. His Bo
is made of Seal skins, or some kind of Leather,
also hath a Coat of Leather upon him, and he sitte
in the middle of his Boat, with a little Oar in h
, Fishing with his Lines: And when in a storm he the high surge of a wave approaching, he hath
y of sinking his Boat, till the wave pass over, least
by he should be overturned. The Fishers here
rve that these
Finmen
or
Finland-Men,
by their
ing drive away the Fishes from the Coasts One
e
r Boats is kept as a Rarity in the
Physicians
l at Edinburgh.
On the West side of
Papa Westra,
Some men appearing on a Holm before a boat was cast away.
between it and
ra
there is an Holm, wherein once there was a
e Chappel, whereof some of the side-walls are only
w standing, in which they say, there were seven Si
s buried, who were Nuns, and desired to ly in this
lm, about whose Graves this Chappel was built:
out a Year ago, there were seen several times at mid
y, about 20. Men walking on that Holm, among
hom there was one higher and greater then the
, who sometimes stood and looked unto the Chap
, this my Informer with a hundred People in the
e of
Papa
saw, who could attest the same: After
hich appearance there was a Boat cast away on that
olm with 4 Men in her, who were all lost.
In the Links of
Tranaby
in
Westra,
Old burying places.
and of
Skeal
in the
Mainland,
washen from the West by the
Deucaledonian
cean,
some places are discovered when the Sea wash
h away the sand,
Mr.
Wallaces
description of
Orkney.
which shews that such places have
en Cemeteries or burying places for their dead of
d, of a square figure, and the stones are joined to
ether by some cement, when opened Earth and some
imes Bones are found in them, The reason some do give of this is because the way of interring dead bodies among many of the Ancients, (as among the
Saxons
n the
Isle of Britain
) was not in deep Graves, but under Clods or Turfs of Earth made into Hillocks. But none of these we had occasion to see, Concerning that Rock called
Less,
surrounded with the Sea, nigh to the
Noup-head
in
Westra,
upon which some say, if any Man go having Iron on him, the Sea will instantly rage, so that no Boat can come nigh to take him
nor the sea be setled till the piece of Iron be cast
to it; when in
Westra
we enquired about it,
found no ground for the truth thereof.
A remarkable provibence.
Mr.
Wallace
narrates a remarkable Providence, wh
the Ministers here confirmed to us, as a truth; C
cerning four Men in
Stronsa
who u
ed to
ish togeth
in one Boat, among whom there was one
John
ne
whole Wife being desirous he should inter
it
Fishing for a time, he having purchassed a great plen
of Fish, which he not being so willing to do, on a d
she rising before him stopped the windows and o
places in the House▪ whereby light was let in▪ and
went to the fields; the other three Men after their usual manner went to Sea, whose Boat she saw overturned and themselves perish; upon which she returned home to her Husband: and no doubt would have given the sad News of his Neighbours perishing, no
without Joy congratulating, that he was not this d
in company with them: But upon her coming into her house she had yet a more melancholick fight; her Husband lying dead, choaked in that vessel, wherein they used to make Urine.
An honest Man in
Orkney
told me, that some years ago,
Instance of God's mercy.
when he was coming home with Timber and some other things in his B
at, from
Innern
ss
and was almost the length of the Isle of
Eda,
where he lived, the Boat turned and lay upon her side, but the Sails being spread in the water hindred the Mast to go down, and her altogether to overturn, much of what they had in went to the Sea, and he with the other Seamen in Company sat upon the side of the Boat, and so were for some hours tossed up and down, whither the Tide did drive them, they in the mean time comforting and refreshing one another with places of Scripture and notes of Sermons, which lately they had heard, and sometimes puting up earnest Prayers to God whom the Wind and Seas do obey; At length God not turning away his Mercy from them, nor their Prayer from
im, graciously gave ear unto their cry, and
rought them all safe ashore together with the Boat on
he west side of
Sanda,
much of the Timber and what
hey had in being driven ashore to that same very place
efore them. A great Mercy when not only they, but
heir Boat, and most of their Loadening, were saved,
ome of these Men whom I am acquainted with, and
o judge Godly, cannot speak of this deliverance but
ith great concernedness and affec
ion, which makes
e to think this Mercy not to have been a cast of
ommon Providence, but a gracious Return of their
rayer.
The Effects of Thunder in this Country are very
urprising; 1670,
The effects of thunderstrange
The Steeple of
Kirkwal
was brunt with Lightening: And
A
1680 there was a Gen
leman in
Stromness
in the west end of the
Mainland
nd a stall, wherein there were 12. Kine, the Thun
r killed every other one, killing one and passing
other, so that there were 6. killed, and 6. alive;
his the Ministers confirmed as a certain truth to their
nowledge.
There was a Man that died not many years ago,
An Eagle taketh up a Child.
ho when a Child being left in the Field, (the Mother, as some say, shearing at a little distance from
im) was taken up by an Eagle, and carried from
he Parish of
Orphir
in the
Mainland,
to the Isle of
Waes
ver 3 or 4 Miles of Sea, but in God's good Pro
idence, the Eagle being quickly pursued to his Nest
hither the Child was taken, he was recovered with
ut any hurt.
It was observed that in these Isles before the late earth, there were several strange Birds seen,
Several strange birds seen.
such as
hey have not seen formerly nor since. One of the Ministers told me, that one Bird frequented his House
bout that time for a quarter of an Year, which was
f a black, white, red and green Colour: As also he saw another, all stripped or sprainged on the back, which Birds were beautiful to behold.
There was a Monster about 7 Years ago born of one
Helen Thomson
Spouse to
David Martin
Weaver in
North Ronalsha,
A monster born.
having its Neck between Head and Shoulders a quarter and an half of an yard long, with a Face, Nose, Eyes, Mouth &c. to the Back, as well as before, so that it was two Faced, which Monster, came living into the World: This the Minister declared unto us, having taken the Attestation of the Women present at the Birth, he not being on the place at the time: And it is said that a certain Woman should have wished this unto the Mother, whom she alledged had lied upon her, in her wrath wishing, that if she spoke a lie she might bring forth a Monster, which accordingly came to pass in God's Holy and Wil
Providence.
Concerning mines, shells &c.
Some say there are several Mines of Silver, Tin Lead &c. Also some Veins of Marble and Alabaster
Buchanan
commends this Country for white and black Lead,
Buchan. Hist. L.
1.
of which there is to be had as good as in Britain
Sex diversis in locis hujus Insula, Metalla su
plumbi albi & nigri tam probi quam usquam in Britan
reperiatur,
As also several kinds of fine Shells to b
found on the shore and Rocks, but we had occasion t
see none of them, save some of these Nuts, where
they make Snuff-Boxes.
CHAP. V. Some Heathenish and Popish
Rites, Charm &c.
yet remaining in the
Orkney-Isles,
are glanced at.
Concerning their superstitious
e,
BEfore that I bring to a close my Discourse concerning
Orkney,
I shall give an Account of some C
stoms yet prevailing among them, which can be constructed to be nothing else save the sour dregs of Pa
an and Popish Superstition and Idolatry, yea and ma
y of them such as the Charms practised by them
o be the meer and woful effects of pure Devilry, and
ot the product of Natures Operation.
But least I should be mistaken I judge it not amiss
o premise,
A caution given.
That not all nay nor the generality of
Orkney
re hereby impeached, as guilty of these evils, for I know there are many judicious and wise Men, and I hope some real Christians among them, who abhor
nd detest such things as much as any, but hereby some
oolish and silly ones are intended, whom deceiving
nd being deceived, Satan leadeth Captive at his will; Nor yet that all the Isles are alike lying under the Charge, for there are some of them, whose Inhabitants
re generally more Moral and Discreet: Neither is it
lledged, that such sinful and corrupt Customs prevail as much now as formerly, for they are much away
y what they were, and that even of late: Nor is
t denied but that honest and faithful Ministers will
abour to have them abolished every where, seeing alas! There is much horrid wickedness and manifest Devilry
oo, with us in the South, as well as with them in the North, so that no part of the Kingdom can plead,
not guilty.
But my principal Scope and Design,
My design in this chap.
is to manifest
he Works of Darkness, and to shew how busy the God of this World is in deluding and blinding poor Souls, and now ready we are to be his drudges and slaves; that so these things being wisely and seriously considered, all may be induced to make a Christian improvement thereof, both with respect to themselves and others, whom they are called to pity and pray for,
If peradventure God will give them Repentance to the acknowledging of the Truth, that they may be recovered out of the snare of the Devil;
And more especially that the General Assemblies and other Judicatories of this Church as they are called, may be pleased to continue their Fatherly Care over these Northern Isles, that tho they bee remo
from them as to Situation, yet they may be near unto them, as to a warm and kindly affection, which o
Church hath not been wanting in hitherto.
Some things proper to be premised.
And 1st. we would take notice, that the old Maxime
Ignorance is the mother of Devotion,
so much crye
up by the Papists and their judicially blinded Clergy, i
so far from being the Mother of Devotion, that it i
both the Mother and Nurse of the most damnable Errours, Superstitions and Delusions, as these Isles kno
to their sad Experience; for Ignorance of the Principles of our Holy Religion, doth greatly prevail among the Commonalty, so that as one of their Ministers no
without some concern and greif for the same, told me▪ Not one of a hundred in some of their Parishes can read. How this comes to pass, that the People should be so grossly Ignorant I shall not undertake to determine, it is commonly imputed to their want o
Schools, through the Country, which indeed I will not say, but is one great cause thereof, and therefore that this so very dreadful an evil may be effectually remedied, care should be taken by all concerned, that Schools be Erected in every Parish, and a competen
Salary provided for the Masters Maintainance and Encouragement; and that also in every Isle where there is any number of inhabitants, some Person should be appointed for the Instruction and Education of their Children; and until that such a course be taken, the People generally will be Ignorant still, and the Ministers as to the Preaching part, may complain in the words of the Prophet,
Isa.
28 9.
Whom shall we teach knowledge and whom shall we make to understand doctrine? then that are weaned from the milk, and drawn from the breasts
For it is much about one to Preach to Auditors besoted with Stupidity and Ignorance, as it is to give Exhortation unto Babes, Therefore it is that our Church in her Assemblies hath so frequently and seriously pressed the Learning of Children to Read, and the providing o
Schools for that end, Pastours to be diligent in that
itiating and necessary Work of Examination and
eaching Catechetick Doctrine, and the Concurrence
arents with both in laying out themselves for the
struction of their Children, as well by themselves by others; Godly Ministers well knowing that the
ccess of Ordinances and Edification of their People,
pendeth much thereupon,
Isa.
53.11.
Jo.
17.3.
&c.
as the means which the
rd useth to bless for the bringing in of his Elect;
nowledge being so necessary to the Being of Faith, at the latter is sometimes expressed by the Name of
e former.
And seeing they retain not God in their knowledge,
is no wonder they be given over to a Reprobate find, to do things which are not convenient;
God's judgment upon the ignorant
No
onder they frequent their old Chappels for Super
tious Ends, of which the corrupt and purblind Rea
n of Man hath been always very fond: No wonder
t being in the dark without the Lanthorn of the
owledge of Scripture Revelation, they mistake their
y, and by the using of Charms and consulting of
armers, they
run to Beelzebub in stead of having re
se to the God of Israel.
Which Ignorance to be the
use of these Evils, will appear the more evidently,
we consider, that in these Isles, where there is a
eater measure of the knowledge of God, there is not
th a following of these horrid and hellish Practices.
There are several old Chappels in these Isles, which
e People resort unto, but that which I heard of, as
ost famous is St.
Tredwels Chappel
in
Papa Westra,
Several old chappels through the Isles.
ich they have such a Veneration for, that they will
me from other Isles in considerable numbers to it,
me of us having occassion to be on that Isle, we saw
s Chappel, situated on a small low Rock, within a Loch
mmonly called St.
Tredwels Loch,
St.
Tredwels
chappel.
to which we
ssed by stepping-stones, before this Chappel door there
s a heap of small stones, into which the Superstious People when they come, do cast a small stone or two for their offering, and some will cast in Money; the Ch
pel hath been but little, and is now Ruinous, only so
of the Walls are standing, which the People are so
from suffering to be demolished, that they labour
keep them up, and tho the Proprietour of the grou
hath some way enclosed it, yet this proves not effect
to prevent the frequenting thereof. At the North E
side of the Loch nigh to the Chappel there is a
stone standing, behind which there is another stone
ing hollowed in the form of a Manger, and nigh to
there is another high stone standing with a round
through it, for what use these stones served,
could not learn; whether for binding the Horses
such to them as came to the Chappel, and giving the
meat in the hollow stone; or for tying the Sacrific
to, as some say, in times of Pagan Idolatry; is uncert
St.
Tredwels
Loch held Medicinal.
This
St Tredwel's Loch
nigh to the East end of whi
this Chappel is, is held by the People as Medici
whereupon many diseased and infirm Persons resort to some saying that thereby they have got good; A
certain Gentleman's Sister upon the Isle, who was
able to go to this Loch without help, yet return without it, as likewise a Gentleman in the Country who was much distressed, with sore Eyes, went to the Loch and Washing there became sound and whole,
he had been at much pains and expence to cure t
formerly. With both which Persons, he who was Minister of the place for many Years, was well acquai
ed, and told us that he saw them both before and al
the Cure: The present Minister of
Westra
told me, t
such as are able to walk, use to go so many times ab
the Loch, as they think will perfect the Cure, bef
they make any use of the Water, and that without spe
ing to any, for they beleive, that if they speak,
will marr the Cure: Also he told that on a cer
Morning not long since, he went to this Loch,
found six so making their circuit, whom with s
difficulty he obliging to speak, said to him, they
me there for their Cure.
How it cometh to pass, that this Loch should accomplish the cure of any. I leave to my Reader to judge,
How the water of this Loch should accomplish the cure of any examined.
whether it be by any Medicinal or healing Vertue in the Water, which I incline not to think, the Cure being
circumstantiated; or if the force and strength of the
agination of the Persons afflicted, may have any ten
ncy that way; which, some judge, hath its own in
ence, in some such like cases: Or, rather, by the
d and assistance of Satan, whom God in his Holy and
se Providence may permit so to do for the further
dicial blinding and hardning of these who follow
ch unwarrantable and unlawful courses: God so punish
g them, by giving them up to such strong delusions.
et I hear, that when they have done all, that is usual for them to do; as going about the Loch, washing their Bodies or any part thereof, leaving something
the Loch, as old Clouts and the like &c. It is but few, in whom the effect of healing is produced. As
r this Loch's appearing like Blood, before any dis
ure befal the Royal Family, as some do report, we
uld find no ground, to beleive any such thing.
These Chappels the People frequent,
These Chapels frequented also for Prayer, and paying of Vowes.
as for other
ds, so for Prayer, they placing a kind of Merit there
, when performed in such places, and this they observe more than private Retirements; And if they be
nder any Sickness, or in any danger, as at Sea, they
ill vow so to do. And when they go to the Chappels
pay the Vows taken on, they use to lay several
tones, one above another, according to the number
Vows which they made; some of which heaps we
w in
St. Tredwells Chappel.
And none must go empty
anded, but leave behind them something, either a peice of Money, or of Bread, or a Stone, which they judge will be sufficient.
As at all times, when occasion offers,
Especially in the time of Lent.
they observe these Superstitious Practices, so especially during Lent, they will not neglect their Devotions in such places; a
on
Easter-Sunday
several Boats will be seen going
them from other Isles. And tho' their Ministers both privately and publickly have spoken to them, yet they cannot get them to forbear and abandon these Custom
And the Minister of
South-Ro
alsha
told us, that ma
of the People in that Isle, especially such as live at the south end thereof nigh to the Kirk, called our
Lady Kirk,
whereof, tho now the Walls only be standing without a Roof, yet the very Stones thereof they reverence, and are not far from adoring; And so ten
cious are they, that when in rough weather, he hath procured the conveniency of a Barn to Preach in, ye
the People obliged him to come to this ruinous Fabrick else many of them would not have heard: They an
now about the putting of a Roof on this Church, which the Gentlemen of the Isle are not inclined to, judging other places more commodious for it to be built in, but Proposals of this nature do not relish with the People they being so superstitiously wedded to the place of i
present Situation: Whereupon the Heads of Fam
e will rather by themselves contribute to the repairing of this Old Church than suffer a new one to be built in any other place of the Isle, tho less to their cost.
In this old Fabrick of our
Ladys Church,
there is a Stone lying about 4 foot long,
Concerning a one lying in
Our Ladys Church.
and 2 foot broad, but narrower and round at the two ends, upon the surface of which Stone, there is the print of two feet, concerning which the Superstitious People have a Tradition, that
St. Magnus,
when he could not get a Boat on a time to carry him over
Pightland Firth,
took this stone, and setting his Feet thereupon, passed the Firth safely, and left the Stone in this Church, which hath continued here ever since. But as
I
think, and some more judicious People do likewise suggest, it hath been a Stone, upon which under Popery, the Delinquents stood bare footed suffering Penance. It is like when thus
St. Magnus
came over the Firth, it hath been that time, when he was seen riding through
Aber
e
,
giving the first account of the defeat of the
English Bannockburn
and afterward was seen going over
Pightland Firth.
And indeed both are alike destitute of any
adow of Truth, credible only by these superstitious
d silly ones, whom the GOD of this World hath
inded.
Several of the Isles have their Saints Days which
me do superstitiously observe.
Several of the Isles have their Saints Dayes.
There is one day in
arvest, on which, the more ignorant, especially in
uld,
say, if any work the Ridges will blood. The
ark some call our
Ladys Hen.
And some such Po
sh Dregs are to be found: The Lord preserve this
and from Poperys Inundation; for as it is credible
om what hath been said, and some better acquainted
ith this Country did inform us, That if Popery get
oting again, from the fears of which in the good
ovidence of GOD, we were lately delivered,)
n any
the Inhabitants of these Isles, would readily embrace
and by retaining some of these old Popish Rites and
ustoms, seem to be in a manner prepared for it.
Next to glance at their Charms,
Concerning their Charms.
which I shall breif
do, and not give any Account, how they perform
em, left thereby I should seem to point out to any, how
try the experiment of this Hellish Art and tremen
us Devilry, which I think I do sufficiently guard
ainst, not only by barely reciting there are such▪ but
by proper Precautions adduced in this Chapter.
They have a Charm, whereby they stop excessive
ooding in any, whatever way they come by it,
A Charm to stop excessive bleeding.
whe
er by or without External Violen
▪ The name of
e Patient being sent to the Charmer, he saith over
me words, (which I heard) upon which the Blood
tantly stoppeth, tho the blooding Patient were at the
eatest distance from the Charmer. Yea upon the say
g of these words, the Blood will stop in the blooding throats of Oxen or Sheep, to the astonishment of Spe
ators. Which account we had from the Ministers of
e Country.
Another for the Toothach.
There is a Charm likewise they make use of for
Toothach, whereof
I
had the following instance fr
an Honest Man worthy of Credit. Some years ag
there was one who used this Charm, for the ab
ing the pain of one living in
Eda,
tormented therewith and tho the Action then was at a distance, the Cha
er not being present with the Patient, yet according the most exact calculation of the time, when the Cha
er was performed by the Charmer, there fell a livi
Worm out of the Patients Mouth, when he was at Su
per. This my Informer knew to be a Truth,
the Man from whose Mouth it fell is yet alive in t
Isle of
Sanda.
Whether this Worm was generated the corrupted part, and so fell out by the Devils mean at the using of the Charm; or the Worm was brought by an evil Spirit
aliunde,
to the mouth, and thence
a
ling down, I shall not determine.
Thei
Beasts and Boats sprinkled with forespoken Water.
Also when the Beasts as Oxen, Sheep, Horses,
&c.
are Sick, they sprinkle them with a Water made
by them, which they call
Fore-spoken Water;
wherewith likeways they sprinkle their Boats, when they succee
and prosper not in their Fishing. And especially o
Hallow-Even,
they use to sein or sign their Boats an
put a Cross of Tar upon them, which my Informer ha
often seen. Their Houses also some use then to sein.
They have a Charm also whereby they try if person be in a decay or not, and if they will die thereof; which they call Casting of the Heart.
A Charm for any under a decay.
Of this the Minister
Stronza
and
Eda
told us, he had a very remarkable Passage, in a Process, yet standing in his Session Records.
Several other Charms.
Several other Charms also they have, about thei
Marriage, when Women in Travel, when their Co
is calfing, when Churning their Milk, or when Brewing, Or when their Children are sick, by taking the
to a Smith (without premonishing him) who hath ha
a Smith to his Father, and a Smith to his Grand-Father And of several such like Charms, we had an accou
from the Ministers, as likeways, how these Charms
re performed; but of these enough.
Although these Charms sometimes, yet not always they produce the desired Effects:
These Charms not alwayes effectual.
As in the instance staying of Blood, one of the Charmers Wives fell
ce a Blooding, which he by all his Art was not able stop; Whereupon he is said thus to have expressed
self, "
I
have stopped the Blooding of 100, and yet I cannot do it to my Wife.
That such admirable Effects upon the using of the
harms are produced by the Agency of Demons;
Acts of Assemblies are standing against such. As by the Assemb. 1640.
hink few, if any, will doubt, God so permitting it
be in his Holy and Wise Providence, for the further punishment and judicial blinding of those, who
low such unlawful courses, and the Devil thereby engaging his Slaves more in his Service: Yet not alwayes the effects desired and exspected do follow,
at all may know the Devil is a chained one, and can
nothing without the permission of a Soveraign God,
o is Lord over all. Our Assemblies sensible of the
eat Sin and Evil that is in using these Charms, and
nsulting of Charmers, have made several Acts both against the one and the other, strictly inhibiting and discharging all such Hellish Practices, and requiring all
inisters diligently to see to the observance and Execution thereof.
Evil Spirits also called Fairies are frequently seen in several of the Isles dancing and making merry,
Fairies frequently seen.
and sometimes seen in Armour; Also I had the account of
e wild Sentiments of some of the People concerning
em; but with such I shall not detain my Reader, We
stning our Voyage to
Zetland.
CHAP. VI. A Description of
Zetland.
The Country in General
Described;
The
Soil, Product, Manners
of the People
&c.
hinted at.
Situation of
Zetland.
ZETLAND
lyes to the N. East from
Orkney,
betwixt the 60. and 61 Degree of Latitude, the
being about 20. or 21. Leagues betwixt the
Sta
Head
of
Sanda
the Northernmost point thereof, and
Sw
burgh-Head
the Southern most point of Land in
Zetland
over a very rolling and swelling Sea▪ wherein the constantly runs the strong Current of a Tide▪ which causing the Sea to rise with its swelling waves, the whole passage betwixt
Orkney
and
Zetland,
is but
one continued Roust, or strong and impetuous Tide especially about the
Fair Isle,
still such a great Sea goet
even in the greatest Calm, that the Boats are like
sling the masts out of them; and our Boat-maste
told us, that frequently when he had been passing t
Fair Isle
in a dead Calm, the Boat hath been so tosse by the swelling Sea, that it would have taken in water on every side. And I have heard Mariners ofte
declare, that there is more hazard in these Seas, the
in going to the
Eastern
or
Western Indies.
The
Fa
Isle
(of which more afterward) is reckoned to b
but 8. Leagues from
Zetland,
whereas it is about 12. or 13. Leagues from
Orkney,
so that we shall consider it, together with the Isles belonging to
Zetland.
The Isles
Zetland
consisteth of moe Isles than
Orkney
whereof some are more, others less considerable, beside many Holms serving for Pasturage.
Mainland.
The largest of
em is that which they call the
Mainland,
60. Miles
ng from South or South and by West, to North or
orth and by East; as to breadth not all alike, for
o in some places it be 16. miles, yet in other it scarce one Mile broad, it being so intersected with
es, Sounds or Lochs, that it may be said to consist
a great number of Promontories or Branches of
and stretching themselves into the Sea.
All this Country consisting of so many Isles, goeth
nder one common Name, called by some
Hethland,
Original of the name
Zetland.
others
Zetland,
and also
Schetland.
The Etymo
gy of which Names is very uncertain, as was that of
Orkney;
some assigning one Reason of the Name,
nd others another at their pleasure. That which
emeth most probable is, that this Country is called
ethland,
because it is very Mountainous and riseth
igh above the waters, so a high land in Norse is called
Hoghland:
It is called
Zeland
or
Zetland,
because of the great Sea wherewith on all hands it is encompassed,
Zee
being
Sea
in that Language. And called
Schetland,
The Fortification
Schatt
or
Scat
in
Denmark
levyed
an.
1691. is a Tax with a witness or very great, saith the modern account of
Denmark.
because of a kind of Custom or Tribute called
Scat,
which they payed to their Norvegian Masters, when they were in Possession of this Country, and the Tribute or Custom imposed upon the Inhabitants of
Norway
to this day is called
Scat,
and tho
Zetland
be now annexed to the Crown of
Scotland,
yet there is a certain Rent or due, which the Gentlemen and some others here do pay Yearly to the King or his Steward, which is still called
Scat.
I say altho we cannot be positive in determining the reasons of the Name, yet it seems to be of a
Norvegian
or
Danish
Original.
Seeing I have already had under consideration,
By whom it was first planted and possessed.
by whom
Orkney
was first Planted and Inhabited, and how it hath been disposed of hitherto, I judge it not very needful for me to add any more to that purpose concerning
Zetland,
for it is more then probable, that about the same time, by the same Persons, hath
Zetland
also been Inhabited, seing there are many mo Pi
Houses remaining there, and some of them as outward appearance in better case, then are to found in
Orkney,
and always our Historians in th
Descriptions of these Northern Isles of
Orkney
and
Z
land
have reckoned them as under the Government the same Masters; Therefore without further premise Preliminaries of this nature, I come to consider the p
sent state of the Country.
The Country mossey and but thinly Inhabited.
Altho the Country be large, yet it is in many places thinly Inhabited, and that for the most part upon Coasts, and indeed otherwise it cannot well be, there are few if any places in
Zetland,
but they are wi
in two Miles of the Sea, which they incline to do
nigh unto, being more convenient for their Fish
and for the gooding of their Land, which is ordina
by Sea-ware, hence it would be incommodious them upon these accounts to be at any distance from Besides, the Country is generally Mossey and Mounta
ous, all covered over with Heath, yea the far gr
est part thereof is as one great Moss or Quagmire m
up of Water and Earth blended together, which k
of ground would require much Labour and Expe
to bring in either to be Grazing, or Corn-Land, i
all in many places they could get it done, for fr
Scalloway
on the West side of the
Mainland
to
Le
on the East side thereof, four Miles over land, it is a continued tract of Moss and Moor, so that the
not one House all that way, till we come near u
Lerwick,
whereas we would think that this peice ground should be better Inhabited then many oth
considering the great resort of Strangers in the Sum
time thereunto, if Nature had not laid such inconveniences in the way, which would prove so diffic
to overcome.
The people discreet and fashionable
The People are generally Discreet and Civil, no
Rustick and Clounish as would be expected in such place of the World, which may be much owing
eir Converse and Commerce with Strangers, who
pair to these Isles in the Summer Season, with whom
e inhabitants do keep a constant Bartering or Trade;
hich Trading as it makes them the better to live, so
may tend not a little to the Cultivating of their Man
s. They are also very Fashionable in their Clothes,
d the Gentry want not their fine Stuffs, such as
Hol
d, Hamburgh
&c. do afford, so that they are to be seen as good an Order and Dress, as with us in the South:
he Bowrs, Fishers and other Country People also do
honest-like and decent in their Apparel, as becometh
eir station.
They also have always been in repute for
Hospitality,
Hospitable.
d indeed we have seen no other to contradict that which is spoken, so much to their Commendation and
aise. for at any time, when we had occasion to visite
entlemen, Merchants or others, we were always by
em kindly Entertained. And so much they are said
be given to this commendable peice of Humanity,
at if they do purchase any thing from Foreign Mer
ants, which they put any value upon, such as Wheat
ead, some strong Liquor &c. Even the Country people will not use it themselves, but reserve it for the
tertainment of Strangers; As for those old Inha
tants of the
Danish
Blood, of whom it was said,
That
were seeming Fair, but really False, and superlatively
oud,
they are much worn out of this Country; and
at any time Ships be driven ashore upon their Coasts,
Inhabitants use very kindly and Humanely to treat
distressed Company, of which Humane Treatment
Ship belonging to the Firth had a late experience,
ing broke on the Coast there in
December
last, as
e of the Ships Company informed me. Such a kind
d generous Reception, Merchants and Mariners meet
t with in many places, upon which they are unhap
ily cast, from whom better things would be expected.
The body of the people ignorant.
to the matters of God and Religion, the Body of
People are said to be very Ignorant, by these who know them better then we can be supposed to have ha
access to do, considering the short time of our stay and abode among them; Which may be imputed to thei
want of convenient Schools for the Instruction o
their Youth in many places of the Country; Which also was assigned as the reason why
gnorance doth s
much prevail in the
Orkney Isles.
Which great Evil
the Mother and Leader of many others, all should labour to redress as they are severall called and concerned, Authority also interposeing their Command, and not denying their Countenance and Encouragement thereunto.
Yet frequent Gospel ordinances.
Yet we must say, that the People do frequent the dispensing of Gospel-Ordinances, and seem to hear with some measure of Attention and Reverence; and as appeared to us, not without some seriousness, and concern upon their Spirits, which after hearing continued with some, as we found by our Converse with them which encouraged us to set and keep up two Week days Sermons at
Lerwick
during our stay in the bounds which the People thronged unto, thereby shewing great respect to the Ordinances dispensed by us: S
that matters looked far otherwise, then what was expected by our selves and many others before we cam
to this Country. And indeed after conference upon this head, all of us judged, that if things were got pu
into a better order, and some evils removed, which forbear to mention, knowing that they will come under the cognizance and consideration of others, wh
are in a capacity to redress them, there might be Harvest through Grace.
No latine school there.
Altho there be a Latine School at
Kirkwal
in
Orkney
yet there is none in all this Country, which cannot but be very prejudicial to the Inhabitants, the Advancement of the Education of their Youth being the eb
hindered, many promising and pregnant Ingenys los
and Letters discouraged; For Gentlemen are either obliged to keep their Children at home, and so the must want that peice of Learning, which tends so much to Form and Folish their Mindes, and to compleat them as Gentlemen or else send them to other Countries, where Education is to be had, which many are averse to do, not only because of the Charge and Expence they will be at, but also of the fear they will be in, in sending their Children over Sea, and keeping them so long at such a distance from them. As for Chaplains, tho they could be had, which would be with difficulty in this corner, yet all Gentlemen who have Children to Educate, cannot well bear the Charges of bringing them over from
Scotland
and keeping them with them for so long a time. Whereupon the Ministers there are very desirous, that the Government may be Addressed for Encouragment to School-Masters through the Country, and particularly that a Latine School be set up either at
Lerwick
or
Stalloway.
English
is the Common Language among them yet many of the People speak
Norse
or corrupt
Danish,
Their Language.
especially such as live in the more Northern Isles, yea so ordinary it is in some places, that it is the first Language their Children speak. Several here also speak good
Dutch,
even Servants though they never have been out of the Country, because of the many
Dutch Ships
which do frequent their Ports. And there are some who have something of all these three Languages,
English, Dutch,
and
Norse.
The Norse hath continued ever since the
Norvegians
had these Isles in Possession, and in
Orkney
(as hath been said) it is not quite extinct, tho there be by far more of it in
Zetland,
which many do commonly use.
It is observable that the Names of the Descendants of the old Inhabitants,
Names.
differ from the Names of others now numerous among them, for these only have a Name without a Sirname, save what is taken from their Fathers Name, and by adding Son or Daughter thereunto,
Exemp. Gra, Agnes Magnus Daughter,
her own Name is
Agnes,
her Fathers is
Magnus,
to which
Daughter
is added, which is the whole Denomination or Designation under which such a Woman goes; So
M
rion Peters Daughter, Laurence Johns Son
&c. Which they say is yet the
Danish
way of Expressing and Distinguishing Names. And for further clearing, if ther
be two Men or Women of the same Name, they u
also to design them by the places where they ordinarily reside, as
Agnes Magnus Daughter in Trebister
that so she may be discriminated from another Woman of the same Name living in another place. It is probable that hence flowed these Sirnames, such as
Williamson, Robertson, Jamieson, Davidson
&c. which d
abound with us in
Scotland.
In some words also their Pronunciation doth differ from that of ours, as for Instance, they often use to leave out the Letter H in the
Pronunciation, as if it did not belong to the Word, s
Three
they pronounce as
Tree, Thou.
as
Tou
or
Tu.
&c. They have also some
Norish
words which they commonly use, which we understood not, till they were explained, such as
Air
which signifies a Sand Bank
Oyse
an Inlet of the Sea,
Voe
a Creek or Bay
&c.
And these words are much used both in
Zetland
and
Orkney.
The Country better inhabited then formerly.
It would appear that the Country is now much better Inhabited, than formerly some ages agoe it hath been, for we hear but of few who leave this Country, having once fixed their abode therein, tho there be many who have lately come to it from
Orkney, Caithness, Sutherland. Buchan
and other places especially in the North of
Scotland.
So that in all
Lerwick,
the most considerable Town in the Country, there are but very few whose Grand-fathers have lived in those Isles. And in
Lerwick
it self about 30 years agoe there were only 4 Houses, and some years before there were none at all, tho now there are between two and three hundred Families in it.
People healthful and many live to a good age.
Tho the ground be generally bad, and the Climate cold, yet it is not unwholesome living here, as appears from the many vigorous old People, that abound in the
sles, whose health I think is rather more firm and
ound then with us, neither are they lyable to such fre
uent sickness, whither this is to be imputed to the
eeness and purity of the Air, or to the quality of their Diet, or the Sobriety of their living, or to all these and the like I shall not judge. Yet they tell us they used
o live much longer in former Ages then now they do, as of one
airvile,
who lived 180 years, and all his time never drank Beer or Ale; His Son also and Grand-Children lived to a good old Age, who seldom or never drank any other thing save Milk, Water and their Country-Bland. It is said also that this
Tairvils
Father lived longer then himself: There was also one
Laurentius
in the Parish of
Waes,
whose Heir Oyes do yet live there, who arrived at a great Age, whom
Buchanan
mentioneth, that he lived in his time, marrying a Wife after the 100. year of his Age, and in the 140. went a Fishing with his little Boat when the Sea was Tempestuous.
Salubritatis firmitudo in Laurentio quodam nostra atate apparuit, qui post Centisimum annum uxotum duxit: centesimum quadragesimum annum agens,
Buchan. Hist. L.
savissimo mari in sua
naviculâ
piscatum prodibat: Ac nuper nulla vi gravioris morbi labefactatus, sed sento solutus decessit.
For surely, as all Skilful Physicians do grant, there is nothing more Conducive to the maintaining of a Sound and Healthful Constitution, then a sober and regular Diet, whereas they who live otherwise, to speak with respect to 2d. Causes do impair their Health, and cuts themselves off, often in the midst of their days; especially such as feed high, and indulge themselves in drinking strong Liquors, which tends to the exhausting of that Natural and Innate Heat, the Fountain of our Animal-Life; whereas it is observed of all these, who arrived at such a great Age that they seldom if ever drank any strong Liquor.
They obnoxious to the scurvy.
There is no Sickness or Disease this Country i
more subject unto then the
Scurvey,
as is
Orkney
likewise which is occasioned doubtless by their Salt-meats, Fishes upon which many for the most part do live, Sea-Air &c. And sometimes this Scurvey degenerates into a kind of Leprosy, which they call a
Bastard scurvey,
and is discerned by hairs falling from the Eye-bree
, the Nose falling in &c. Which when the People come to know, they separate, and set them apart for fear of Infection, building Huts or little Houses for them in the feild, I saw the Ruines of one of these Houses about half a mile from
Lerwick,
where a Woman was for some Years kept for this Reason. This Bastard Leprosy, they judge, is caused by the many grey Fishes, such as Sillucks, Piltocks, &c. which they eat; for Bread failing many of the People in the Summer time, that often for 4 or 5 Months, they will not taste thereof, these Fishes are almost their only meat, and especially the Livers of these Fishes, which are thought to be more unhealthful then the Fishes themselves, and they much incline to eat, do occasion this: The drinking also of hot Bland (which is a kind of a Serum of Milk, of which more afterwards) together with these Fishes, do beget such corrupt humours to the distempering of the Body. These Scorbutick Persons are more ordinarily in
Dunrossness
and
Delton,
and more rare in other places; And that because they have mo Grey Fishes in these two Parishes, then in others▪
And it hath been observed often by the Inhabitants, that when in Holy Providence any Sickness cometh upon or breaketh up in the Country,
When any sickness breaketh up in the Country, it quickly spreads. Small pox lately there.
it useth to go through them like a Plague, so that since we came of
the small Pox hath seised upon many both old and young and was so universal, that upon one Lord's Day there were 90. Prayed for in the Church of
Le
wick
all sick of the same Disease, whereas when we were, there a few weeks before, there was not one that we knew sick thereof. They say a Gentleman
Son in the Countrey who had lately gone from the
uth, and was under it when he came home, brought with him, which very quickly spread among the people, the old as well as the young; and so sad have
en the desolating effects thereof, that one told me
ho arrived here lately from the place, that he verily
dgeth the third part of the People in many of the
es are dead thereof.
Altho many of the Inhabitants have each their particular Trades and Employments wherein more espe
ally they lay out themselves, and are taken up about,
Their Employment.
et are they all generally some way acquainted with
e Sea, and can with some dexteritie and skill attained
Experience manage their Boats, not only because of
eir frequent passing from Isle to Isle, and going over the
oes or Lochs which ly in upon, and cut the Mainland,
it by Reason of their great Fishing, not only for their
n use, but for the use of Merchants, who buy their
ishes, or give them the Value in foreign Commodi
es: Hence most of the Inhabitants, not only have some
asturage for their Cattel, and some Corn Land about
eir Houses which they manure, but also their parts
Boats for the end forsaid. Yet there are many who
llow no Trade but their Fishing.
Beside their Fish-Trade with foreign Merchants,
They trade with
Orkney.
they
o likwise drive a great Trade with
Orkney,
from which
very Year several Boats do pass to
Zetland
Loaden with Corns, Meal, Malt, &c. upon the coming whereof they
ften wait for Barley seed, tho the last Year they had Considerable Crop, so that the Barley Seed was sown before the Boats came over. The
Orkney
Men also bring sometimes Stockins, Ale, and the like which they know
be vendible here, Hence every Year considerable
ums of Money go from
Zetland
to
Orkney,
And some
ave told me that most of the Money they have in
Orkney,
is from
Zetland.
So great is the Advantage that these Isles do reap by their Neighbourly Commerce with one another, for as
Zetland
could not well live without
Orkne'ys Corns,
so neither could
Orkney
b
well without
Zetlands Money.
Their Money from forreign Merchants.
As
Orkney
have much of their Money from
Zetla
so
Zetland
have all theirs from foreign Nations Countreys whose Merchants traffick with them, as f
Holland, Hamburgh, B
eme
&c. The Dutch Mo
doth Ordinarily pass among them, as Stivers, half S
ers, and since the Rates of the Money were raise
Scotland,
many here have been considerable gainers the Ducket-douns, which is the species of Money
the
Hollanders
bring more ordinarily with them.
The Kings Rents.
The Kings Rents are but the 3d. part of what t
are in
Orkney,
The Bishop had no Rents from this Countrey.
For tho this Countrey be by far gre
and more spacious then
Orkney,
yet it is not so well in bited, neither is the ground so good: These Rents payed to the Taxmen in Butter, Oyl, and Money, T
Oyl is made of the livers of Fishes, and is sent So for the making of Soap, or is otherwise disposed of, may be most Advantageous. The Bishops had no Re
from this Countrey; And tho it belong to the Dio
of
Orkney,
and is a considerable part of that Charge, we did not hear that ever any of these sole Pastour their Diocesses, as some are pleased to call them, visi
these bounds.
Little Cornland here.
There being so little Corn-Land here, is the ca
why none of the Revenues of the Croun are payed Meal or Corns, whereas in
Orkney
it is far otherwi
as hath been said; for any Corn-Land they have is ordinarily but a few Ridges nigh to the Coasts, for any distance from the Sea, and in many places a
nigh unto it, there is nothing but a Mossy and Mo
tainous Desert covered with Heather, and only so
places plenished with a few Kine, Sheep, or Shelt
tho in other places ye will go some Miles and see no
This Moss and Moor which so much aboundeth, r
ders Travelling very dangerous, even to the Nati
themselves, and so deep is it in many places and t
in the Summer and droughty season, that Horses c
t pass it, and Men on foot not without difficulty and
zard: As in the Isle of
Yell
the Minister in going to the
hurch, from his House is obliged to go on foot 8.
iles almost, wading up to the knees. And indeed the
siest and safest way of Travelling is by Sea in Boats
out the skirts of the Isles, which also is not without
nger.
And tho the greatest part of this Countrey be thus
ossy and Moorish,
Some pleasant Spots through the Countrey.
yet there are some pleasant Spots
it well furnished with Grass and Corn, as nigh to
alloway, Ʋ stness
&c. in the
Mainland,
some places in
e Parishes of
Dunrosness
also on the
Main,
in the
fle
f Unst &c. Hence some Years they will have 20. Fold
Increase, but this is more rare, for at other times in
veral places they will scarce have the double of their
ed. They make much use of Barly-Bread, which
ppears to be fairer then their Oat-Bread, for their
rly they take to be the best Grain, it agreeing bet
r with the ground then Oats. And as it is in
Orkney,
so is it here, if any white Corn be brought unto
e Countrey for seed, it will soon degenerate and be
me like their oun.
I think the Kine and Sheep are of a greater Size,
Concerning their cattel and harvest.
en they are in
Orkney,
tho their Horses be of a less;
for the Sheep I take them to be little less then they
e in many places of
Scotland,
they Lamb not so soon
s with us, for at the end of
May,
their Lambs are
ot come in Season, their Harvest also is much latter,
r they Judge it very early if they get their Corns in
gainst the Middle of October, They observe that our
easons will be two months before theirs, but I do
ot think they differ so much:
If their Sheep were well kept,
Their sheep.
it would be very
easant to behold them in Flocks, they being of di
ers colours; some of a pyed, others of a broun, others
f a broun and white, others of a black colour, some
so have black spraings on their backs, others on their
reheads; and some say they have as great a number of black Sheep, as they have of white; which diversity colours would render them very beautiful, if they we
taken a due Care of; for they neither wash nor c
their Sheep, nor have they any shears for that end; b
pulls the wooll off them with their hands, which as is painful to the beasts, so it makes them look not well favoured, but like these with us, whose w
is scratched with briars or thorns.
Their ordinary drink.
Their ordinary drink is Milk or Water, or Milk a
Water together, or a drink which they call
Bland,
m
common in the Countrey, tho not thought to be ve
wholesome; which so they make up, having take away the Butter from their churned Milk, as likewi
the thicker parts of this Milk which remains after t
Butter is taken out, they then pour in some hot W
ter upon the Serum, Whey or the thinner part of t
Milk in a proportion to the Milk. Which being do
they make use of it for their drink, keeping some f
their Winter provision: And this drink is so ordina
with them, that there are many People in the Cou
trey who never saw Ale or Beer all their Lifetim
The Ale is rare among them, they making bread much of their Barley grain, but the Hamburgh Be
both small and strong is to be had in plenty tho at
good rate 6
sh.
or 8
sh.
our pint, which Beer and oth
Liquors, as also wheat Bread the
Hamburghers
bring wi
them in the Month of
May
for Sale, hence sometim
Liquors as Beer, Ale &c. cannot be had for money,
the
Hamburghers
bring it.
Victuals
earer then in
Orkney.
The great confluence of strangers makes Kine, Shee
Hens and almost all Victuals to sell at a greater rat
then in
Orkney,
for often when the Bushes are her
they will give Double or Triple for a Sheep, or a He
then it is to be bought in
Orkney
for, for the
Holland
with their Bushes being Numerous on these Coast they send sometimes a shore to buy fresh meats, whi
if to be had, they will not want for the price.
Fowls in plenty.
They have Fowls especially Sea-Fowls in great ple
y which do frequent the Rocks, Holms, &c. which they take as they do in
Orkney,
and are very beneficial
o the Proprietours. There are also many Eagles, which do great prejudice and hurt to the Countrey; for the Lambs they will lift up in their Claws, and take whole to their Nests, and falling doun upon the Sheep, they fix one foot on the ground and the other on the Sheep's back, which they having so apprehended, they 1st. pick but their eyes, and then use the Carcases as they please. All sorts of Duck and Drake, Dunte, Geese, Cleck-Geese, Ember-Geese &c, they have as in
Orkney.
They have many Crows but neither here nor in
Orkney
are they of that Colour which they are of with us.
Crowes.
or their Head, Wings, and Tail, only are black, but their Back and Breast from the Neck to the Tail are of a Grey Colour, and the Countrey People look upon it as a bad
Omen,
when black Crows come to these Isles, they portending that a Famine will shortly ensue.
There are many Conies in some places, but no Hares,
Many rabbets, no mair fowles or hares, few rats; no frogges or venomous creatures.
neither are there any Moorfowls which are numerous in
Orkney;
some say that a few from
Orkney
have been brought over for triall, but they could not live here: No Poddocks or Froggs are to be seen, tho many in
Orkney.
Neither are there any Rats to be found, except in some Isles, and these are greater then ordinary, and thought to come out of Ships, when riding at Anchor nigh to the shore, but they have Mice in aboundance. Neither are there any venomous Creatures in these Isles. They have many Ottars, one of which was so tamed that it frequently used to bring Fishes out of the Sea to a Gentleman's House in
Haskashie,
as one told me who knew the Truth thereof.
They have a sort of little Horses called
Shelties,
Concerning their horses called shelties
then which no other are to be had, if not brought hither: from other places, they are of a less Size then the
Orkney
Horses, for some will be but 9 others 10. Nives or Hand-breadths high, and they will be thought big Horses there if eleven, and although so small yet are they full of vigour and life, and some not so high as others often prove to be the strongest, yea there are some
whom, an able Man can lift up in his arms, yet will they carry him and a Woman behind him 8 Miles forward and as many back: Summer or Winter they never come into an House, but run upon the Mountains in some places in flocks, and if at any time in Winter the storm be so great, that they are straitned, for food, they will come doun from the Hills, when the Ebb is in the Sea, and eat the Sea-ware (as likewise do the Sheep) which Winter storme and scarcity of fodder puts them out of Case, and bringeth them so very low, that they recover not their strength till about St. Joh'ns Mass-Day, the 24th. of June when they are at their best: They will live till a Considerable Age as 26, 28. or 30 Years, and they will be good riding Horses in 24 especially they'le be the more vigorous and live the longer, if they be 4. Years old before they be put to Work. These of a black Colour are Judged to be the most durable, and the pyeds often prove not so good; they have been more numerous then now they are the best of them are to be had in
Sanston
and
Eston,
also they are good in
Waes
and
Yell,
these of the least Size are in the Northern Isles of
Yell
and
Ʋ nst.
The Coldness of the Air, the Barrenness of the Mountains on which they feed, and their hard usage may occasion them to keep so little, for if bigger Horses be brought into the Countrey, their kind within a little time will degenerate; And indeed in the present case, we may see the Wisdome of Providence, for their way being deep and Mossie in Many places, these lighter Horses come through, when the greater and heavier would sink doun: and they leap over ditches very nimbly, yea up and doun rugged Mossy braes or hillocks with heavy riders upon them, which I could not look upon but with Admiration, yea I have seen them climb up braes upon their knees, when otherwise they could not get the height overcome, so that our Horses would be but little if at all servicable there.
The great Fishing which they have upon the Coasts,
Their fishes numerous.
makes the place desirable to the Natives, and to be frequented by strangers; it excelling any other place of the
King
of
Brittan's Dominions
for Herring, White and Grey Fishing: the White Fishing they call the Killin and Ling &c. their Grey, the Silluks and seths; there are also somtimes very strange Fishes here to be found, As about 24. Years ago, there came a great number of small thick Fishes into a Voe on the South side of
Neston,
they were of a Golden Colour, very pleasant to behold, they were about the bigness of an ordinary Trout, and all of an equal Size; they being very numerous, the Countrey made much use of them, who Judged them very savoury, tasting Like a Turhot: And never before or since that time were these Fishes seen, in these seas: As my Informer an old Gentleman could remember. Their Tusk is a rare Fish but more ordinary with them, of which more when we come to speak of their Fishing. Also many rare Shells are to be found on the Coasts, but we had not time to enquire and look after them.
Through the Isles for fewel they have good Pites in aboundance; tho,
Fewel.
in some places they are at a distance from them, as these who live in the
Skerries
are obliged to bring them from other Isles, as from
Whalsey,
and the passage being dangerous many boats are cast away with them; some also living in
Dunrossness
are at a loss this way, they not having the Moss at hand, as generally they have in other places on the
Main.
Much broken Timber also is driven ashore upon these Isles, so that the Inhabitants of the
Skerries
trust the one half of their provision to this driven timber: and broken Ships in great quantity often cast ashore; partly through the many Ships that spleet on these Isles, and partly as the wrack of Ships cast away at some distance, which is brought here by the Ebb from
Norway,
or other place lying to the East of
Zetland.
No trees.
There are no trees in this Countrey more then
Orkney
we saw some old white and weather bear
Stocks standing in
Scalloway,
for whatever Reasons ma
be alledged for trees not growing in
Orkney,
far more
I Judge they will hold in
Zetland
both with Respect
the Air and to the Soil: There are also at
Scatroway
son
Goose and Rizzer-berrie bushes which use every Yea
to be laden with fruit, which are a great rarity in the place of the World.
Many excelent herbs, Scurvey grass in aboundance.
Many excellent Herbs are found growing here, th
little knoun or made use of: A Certain English Physician and skilled Botanist who was at
Lerwick
some Year
ago told our Host, that there were many choice an ra
e Herbs here not to be found in
England,
They have much scurvey-Grass; God so ordering it in his wi
Providence that
Juxta venenum, nascitur Antidotum,
that seeing the scurvy is the common Disease of the Countrey, they should have the Remedy at hand.
Much Lime-Stone.
There is here much Lime-stone (tho for ought heard not to be found in
Orkney
) which in some place they have but lately come to the knowledge of, as i
Unst but about 4. Years since; and in other places they know not yet how to use it, The Parish of
T
ngw
(they say) consists almost of Lime-stone, they having few if any other stones then such.
Stones for building, broad.
The Stones wherewith they build are generally broad, and like Flag-stones; by reason of which figure and shape the stones lying the more easily, the builder
are at less trouble in fitting them for the wall; and have observed that in some Houses there is little Lime clay or any such thing for cementing of the building which renders their dwelling so much the colder, the peircing Air passing through between the Chinks of the Stones, which they have no need of under this cold and airish Climate. But some of these Houses they ma
designedly so build, that the Wind may have free passage through them, for drying of their Fishes, which
ouses some ca
l
keas.
There are several superstitious Customs and Practi
s, which the more ignorant People follow,
Several Superstition Customs.
some of which we will have occasion to note in the sequel of
is Discourse, but not so many did we hear of, as there
e in
Orkney.
But I hope the vigilance and Diligence
our Church in inspecting these Isles, and putting all
their Duty, will prove a blessed Mean in the hand
God, for the eradicating and utter abolishing of these
elicts of Paganism and Idolatry.
Sailing about these Coasts is often very dangerous,
Sailing dangerous
hence the Waters prove Graves to many of the Inha
tants. While we were there in the Month of
May
a
at was cast away going by the shore to
Dunressness,
d a Man and his Sister therein perished; and another
an in her was saved by getting upon the keel of the
at and sometimes Boats are cast away when not one
ved: About the Isles are many blind Rocks, which the
atives sometimes unhappily fall and break upon, eitheir through a Mistake, or the Tide and Wind driving them upon them: At other times the Wind rising,
seth the Sea so to swell that the Waves breaking upon
eir small Boats are ready to overset them, and sometimes do: Also tho the Wind be not so strong, there will
me Flanns and Blasts off the Land as to their swift
ess and surprisal something like to Hurricanes, which
ting with a great Impetus or force upon their Sails,
verturns the Boat, and in a moment hurries them into
ternity: By such a flan the
La
d of Muna
a Gentleman in this Countrey is said to have perished the forther Year 1699. when within sight of his ou
House,
nd all that were in the Boat with him said to be 9.
10, Persons, save one servant, who escaped upon the
eel. I remember, that night we came to the Land of
Zetland,
our Seamen thought fit in their prudence not to Sail too nigh the Land for fear of such flans. O to be as Watchmen on our Towers looking out a waiting for the Lord's coming.
Little Commerce in the Winter.
For this cause it is, that during the Winter Sea
they have ordinarily Converse or Commerce wi
none, except that Ships be driven in by stress of W
ther; for the open Boats dare not come, and the clo
decked not without danger, the Sea commonly at the time being so tempestuous, the Tides and Rousts rapid, that they threaten all who come near them, w
being swallowed up; Therefore it is, as they tell u
that from
October
till
April
or
May,
they Ordinar
see no strangers, nor know any News, which makes t
Winter so much the longer and wearisome unto them An Instance whereof we had, that the late Revolution
when his Highness the Prince of Orange our present King
was pleased to come over to assert our Liberties, a
deliver us from our fears, falling out in the Winter it was
May
thereafter before they heard any thing of
And that 1st. they say from a Fisher-Man, whom some would have had arraigned before them, and impeach
of high Treason because of his News, as some did
form us.
They sometimes infested by Pirates.
Their Countrey lying very open, and in many p
ces but thinly Inhabited, exposeth them to the Host incursions of Pirates in a time of War, as of late the
Frenches
did much infest their Coasts, some of their M
Landing did by shot Kill their Kine and Sheep, and take them away with them; yea sometimes they spare not the Churches, but sacrilegiously robbed them, pu
ling doun the Timber thereof as Seats &c. and taking them for burnwood; so they did to a Church in
Nor
Mevan.
But they never came into
Brassa Sound,
le
they had been locked up within Land, Winds turning contrary.
Some light all the Night over in
June.
In the Month of
June
they have a clear light all t
Night over, for at the darkest hour thereof, you w
see clearly to read a Letter, the Sun setteth between 10. and 11. at Night, and riseth between 1. and 2.
e Morning, but for this they have so much the shor
r Day and longer Night in the Winter.
CHAP. VII. A particular Vien is given of the several Parishes, and most considerable Isles in
Zetland.
THus far having Considered the state of the Countrey in General,
A brief Description of the several Parishes with the Isles thereunto belonging.
we come next to take some par
cular view of the Isles, which that I may the better and
ore methodically do, I shall lay before my Reader
e several Parishes with some brief description of the principal Isles therunto belonging. For as to the Num
er of the Isles,
I
never heard an Exact account given
ereof, there being many of them small, wherein is
ly a Family or two, and so but little noticed.
The 1st.
Parish of
Dunrossness.
is the Parish of
Dunrossness
on the
Mainland
to the South, and is the Parish which lyes next to
O
k
ey
and
Scotland,
wherein are 3. Churches, in which
eir Minister performeth divine service,
Cross-Kirk,
nwich,
and
Fair Isle;
In this Parish are several very
ood Voes or Harbours commodious for Ships to ride
. In this there is also much Corn-Land, ther ground
aring the Richest Grain, in many places not so Mossy
d covered over with Heath, as other Parishes are,
hich makes them to have less fewel, tho more corn. Much of the Land here is sanded, and the Sea almost early gaineth something on the lower parts thereof;
e Land lying so low and sandy in many places, is
onvenient for Conics, which abound here about the
e
s or southern most point of Land. In this Parish, there is a great Fishing, This southermost point hath two Heads,
Swinburgh Head,
and
Fitwalls Head,
Swinburgh and Fitwals-Head
two high
ocks seen by Mariners coming from the South at a great distance, which when discovered, they direct their Course towards them.
St Ninians Isle.
To the North-West of the Ness lyes
St. Ninians Isl
very pleasant; wherin there is a Chappel and ane Alt
in it, where on some superstitious People do burn Can
les to this Day. Some take this Isle rather to be a ki
of Peninsula, joyned to the Main by a Bank of San
by which in an Ebb People may go into the Isle, t
sometimes not without danger.
The Fair Isle.
The
Fair
Isle belongeth to this Parish, lying Leagues or 24. Miles to the South or South and by E
of
Swinburgh Head,
by
Burhannan
it is called
Insu
a
b
the pleasant or pretty Isle, Tho I do Judge
FAIR
m
be as well taken
roperly as Appellatively, for the
Faira or Fara, there being another Isle lying to t
North of this which they call
North Faira
which rela
to another
Faira by South;
now there is no
sle lying the South of this
North Faira,
which hath any nat
that can be interpreted
Faira,
but this Fair Isle. Mo
over I neither did see, nor was I informed of any thin
that afford us any Reason, why this Isle should be appellatively taken and denominated
bella
or
Fa
This
Fair Isle
riseth high above the Waters, and is se
by Mariners at a great distance; it i
about an Mile a
a half long from south to North, and nigh to a M
in breadth, the side thereof towards the West is a co
tinued ragged rock from one end to another, alwa
beat upon by the Impetuous currents of a swelling Se
above this West-side is the Craig which they call t
Sheep-Craig,
whereon there are no Houses nor Co
Land, but Sheep use to feed: The side, lying to t
East is lower, declining towards the Sea; There are it two Harbours, one upon the Northern-End, looki
to
Zetland,
and another towards the Southern poi
but Ships or Boats do not ordinarily resort thereunt
if not put to it,
Inh
bitants and some Corn-Land and Pasture in
Fair Isle.
and better cannot do, for so it ha
been a safe shelter and refuge to many.
There use to be about 10. or 12. Families in it, b
now they say Death hath almost depopulate the Isl
the small Pox having lately raged there, and swe
away two thirds of the Inhabitants, so that there is not
sufficient number spared to Manage their Fish-Boats; that Gentlemans Son abovementioned, having tou
hed here in his way to
Zetland:
They have good Pa
turage for Sheep and Kine, and some Corn-Land, and
e very hospital and kind. Their Minister useth to
isite them once in the Year, in the Summer time, and
aving with them about a Month, Preaching, Baptiz
ng their Children and doing other parts of his
astoral Work; after which he returning to
Zetland,
they
re without publick Ordinances till the next Years Revolution.
The Hawks, they say,
Good Hawks there.
which are to be had in the
Fair Isle,
are the best in
Britain,
which use to flee to
Zetland,
or
Orkney
for their prey, these being the nearest Lands, and sometimes they'le find Moor Fowls in their Nests which they behoved to bring from
Ork
ey,
seeing there are none in
Zetland,
and the nearest Isle they could have them in, was
Stronza
or
Westra,
which is between 40. and 50. Miles of Sea, over which at one flight they must carry these Fowls to their Nests.
Many Ships use to cruise about this
Fair Isle
in the Summer time,
Ships use cru
se thereabout.
and by it the
Holland's
Fleet going to or coming from the East-Indies, use to pass, tho sometimes as in the late Wars they Sailed by the North of
Zetland,
that they might be more free of danger. Ships also going to or coming from
Norway
or the East Sea frequently pass this way, when Wind serveth them so to do; and this Fair Isle being seen by them at 14. or 16. leagues distance, in a clear Day it is as a Myth or Mark for directing their courses.
The 2d,
Parish of
Tingwal.
is the Parish of
Tingwall
lying on the East of the
Main
to the North of
Dunrossness,
wherein are 4. Churches,
Tingwall, Whiteness, Wisedale
and
Lerwick,
but the Minister useth not to Preach by turns at
Lerwick,
as he doth at his other 3. Churches, he not finding himself obliged so to do, it being but built lately at the expence of the Inhabitants, however som
times he hath Sermon there, and Baptizeth the Children.
Lerwick
in this Parish is now become t
Principal Toun in the Countrey, lying on the East
the main at
Brassa Sound,
over against the Isle
Brasse.
Town of
Lerwick.
Lerwick
is more then half a Mile in length, lyin
South and North upon the side of the Sound, and w
consist of between 2. and 300. Families, it is but withi
these few Years, that it hath arrived to such a numbe
of Houses and Inhabitants. It is become so considerable, because of the many Ships which do Yearly frequent the Sound, whereby Merchants and Trades-Me
are encouraged to come and dwell in this place, an
not for the pleasantness of its Situation, or the fertilit
of the Countrey about, for it is built upon a Rock
peice of Ground, wherein they can have no street, bu
a kind of a narrow passage before their doors, betwix
them and the Sound, which in some places will not admit of two Mens going in a breast, and at the back o
the Toun there is a Hill of black Moss, wherein they cast their Pites, which in some places cometh to their very doors, and no Corn-Land is there about it, save a little within the Castle, for near a Mile of way.
Many of their Houses, are very Commodious to dwell in, most of them being two stories high, and well furnished within, their Inhabitants consist of Merchants Trades-Men, and Fishers, who keep up a good Trade with Foreigners, from whom they buy much of their domestick provision, some of them are Persons of a Considerable Stock, which they have many ways to improve for their advantage. They are very Civil and kind, of an obliging temper, which we had the Experience of, during our abode among them; there are but few begging poor to be seen here, or in any place of the Countrey, where we had occasion to be; there being a great store of small Fishes, for the supply of their necessity.
They have upon their own Charges Built a convenient Church, at the back of the middle of the Town,
A Church built in
Lerwick,
but no Ministr settled there.
nd furnished it with good Seats high and low, they
re at present a part of the Parish of
Tingwal,
but very
esireous to be disjoined, and erected into a Parish by themselves, that so they may enjoy a Minister of their own: For the promoting of which good Work, they are most willing according to their Ability to Contri
ute for the settling of a Fond for a Stipend to a Minister, but not being in a Capacity to give all, they
esolved to make Application to the Government, for to have some Allowance out of the Revenues of the Bishoprick of
Orkney,
or otherwise as the Wisdom of the Government should see meet, that so there may be a Competency made up.
Upon their application to us,
Fit this Town be Erected into a Parish.
we judgeing it most convenient, yea necessary, that this Town with some of the adjacent Countrey, should be Erected into a Paroch, cherished this their pious design; Telling them, that we intended, to recommend it, to the Commission of the General Assembly: That they may interpose, with the Lords, and other Honourable Members of the respective Judicatories, before whom this affair shall come, for the better effectuating the same. For the Town it self is considerable, and the principal one in the Countrey, much frequented by the Gentry; As also, by Strangers, in the Summer time. And their Minister Preaching seldom here, they are ordinarly destitute of Gospel-Ordinances; The People scarce being able, in the Summer season, and all most impossible for them in the Winter, to travel to the next Church, where their Minister Preacheth: It being about 4 Miles distance from them, of exceeding bad way. As we knew, when we did perambulate the bounds. Which want of Ordinances, maketh their Case very sad and deplorable; It nurseth ignorance; Occasioneth much Sin, especially horrid prophanation of the Lords-Day, by strangers, as well as by inhabitants: And doth effect
ally obstruct the conversion of Souls; Preaching of t
Word being a special mean of convincing and co
verting Sinners and building them up in Holine
and comfort through Faith, unto Salvation.
Citidale of
Lerwick
At the North end of the Town, is the
Castle
or
Ci
del,
of
Lerwick,
begun to be built in the time, of t
Dutch War
Anno 1665. By Work-men sent by
Autho
from Scotland,
for that end, but the Work was new perfected, the Work men, returning home, Anno, 1667. that time also 300 Souldiers were sent over fort
Defence of the Countrey, against the hostile Incu
ons of the
Hollanders,
and were quartered in pla
nigh to the Fort, who likewise returned home a
out the same time, with the Wo
kmen: The Gar
son could do much to command the Sound (for th
there was no Town here) so that none durst La
nigh unto them; The walls are yet in a good con
tion, high in some places without, but filled up wi
Earth within, whereon they raised their Cannon; the weakest part of the Wall towards the North, the hath been a Sally-port, dangerous to Attack, by reas
of a deep Ditch before it, fed by a Spring, into whi
the Garison by cunning Artifices might endeavour draw the Enemy, who by the Stratagems of War th
being brought on, and ensnared, did incontinent sink down into the Sound below them at the foot the Hill, whereupon the Castle is situated: With the Walls is a House of Guard, which hath been t
Stories high, burnt by the
Dutch,
after that o
Souldiers had left the Fort. Upon the Walls towar
the Sound, are standing 3 Iron Cannons one a 6. an
ther a 7. and a 3d. a 10 Pounder, not left by the
who kept Garrison, but since that time within the 30 Years taken out of the Sea nigh to
Wnalsey,
a Sh
of Force there being cast away, about 80. Years before: Which Guns the Inhabitants of
Lerwick
late mounted upon the Walls of the Castle, whereby the might be in a Capacity to Defend themselves against the
th
Privateers, who at any time should come up the
nd and Assault them.
Between
Lerwick
and the Isle of
Brass
on the East with a pleasant Bay or Sound,
Brassa-Sound.
commonly called
Brassa Sound,
Famous for
s being so safe a Road for Ships Anchor and Ride in, and that in the greatest Storm,
ng enclosed with Land on every side, except the
try thereunto from the South, which is half a Mile
ad, but within the Sound as at
Lerwick
its a Mile, hath another narrow passage at the North end of
but dangerous to go out or in at, because of some
nd Rocks therein. This Sound is the ordinary place which the
Holland
Bushes do resort in time of
ring Fishing, who before they put out their Nets, which must not be, according to a Law they have among themselves, before the 24th.
June,
) use to come
re and put themselves Ships, and Nets in order,
d the time by them appointed being come, they all
to Sea together Fishing near to this Land: Some
es there have been seen in the Sound 2000. or 2200.
d at once, and every Year some Hundreds as 5. 6. 700. Yea sometimes so thick do the Ships
y in
Sound, that they say Men might go from one side
the Sound to the other, stepping from Ship to Ship;
d during their Fishing they will come in to the
nd for fresh Water, or other necessary Provision, and return to Sea again.
To this Parish of
Tingwal
also belongeth
Scalloway,
Scalloway.
ng on the West side of the
Mainland,
4. Miles, which is the breadth of the Country in that place,
m
Lerwick.
It was formerly the cheif Town in the country, and the Seat of the Presbytry, enjoying by
r a pleas
nter situation then
Lerwick
about which is good Grass and Corn and some Meadow, betwixt which and the Church of
Tingwal,
is the
Strath
of
Tingwal,
two Miles of hard even and pleasant way; They
y about
Scalloway
is as pleasant a spot as is in all this Country. In all the Town there will be scarce 8
or 100 Persons, there not being such Encourageme
by Trade to live here, as at
Lerwick.
At the East or South East end of the Town stan
the
Castle of Scalloway
built An. 1600.
Castle of
Scalloway.
By
Patrick E
of Orkney Son to Robert Stewart also Earl of Orkney,
w
built the
Palace
of
B
sa
formerly mentioned: Abo
the Gates as we enter into the House, there is this I
scription,
Patricius Orcha
ia & Zetlandiae Comes,
a
below the Inscription this Distich,
Cujus fundamen sax
est, domus illa manebit; Lab
is e contra, si sit arena, pe
That House wh
se Foundation is on a Rock shall stan
But if on the Sand it shall fall. The reason of the I
scription is reported to be this, The Earl great Oppressed both
Orkney
and
Zetland;
and particular at the building of this House, his hand lay very hea
on the poor People, by causing them in great numbe
to be imployed about the Building, which could not b
divert them from their ordinary Work as Fishing &
whereby they provided Sustinance for themselves 21 Families After this, one Mr.
Pitcawn Minister North-Mevan,
said to be a Godly and Zealous Ma
coming to pay his Respects to the Earl, the Earl d
sired him to Compose a Verse, which he might p
upon the Frontis peice of his House; from this the M
nister took occasion to lay before the Earl his great S
of Oppression, upon which the Earls anger was ince
sed, and in his Rage he threatned him with Impriso
ment. However the Earl afterwards coming to so
Composure of Spirit; Mr.
Pitcawn
said unto hi
well if you will have a Verse, I shall give you o
from express words of Holy Scripture
Luke
6. whi
Verse the Earl being pleased with, caused Inscribe on the Lintle above the Gate, with
Luke
6. added the Verse, The Minister thereby insinuating that t
House could not stand long, having such a San
Foundation as Oppression. As indeed neither did it,
shortly after the Earl being Beheaded, the House was
t taken care of, and is now become ruinous.
And herein the Wise Providence of God may be ob
rved,
Observe thereupon.
that as the Inscription on the Gate of the
ace
of
Birsa
in
Orkn
y
did hold forth the Ambition of
e Father, so this Inscription on the Gate of the
e of
Scalloway
in
Zetland,
did shew the Oppression of
Son; and tho it be many Years since the death of
m both, yet the very Houses built by them, to take their Honour and Grandour to appear, do yet and to their Dishonour and Infamy, and in a manner
bear Witness against them: So truly verified in
em, is that Scripture.
Psal.
49.11. & 20.
Psal.
112.6.
Pro.
10.7.
That tho the inward thoughts of
a
be that their houses shall continue for ever, and
r dwelling places to all generations; Nevertheless they
to, in honour and not understandin
, are like the beasts
at p
ish. And the Right
ous shall be in everlasting
memberance: But the Name of the wicked shall rot
This House or Castle is 3 Stories high beside Kitch
nes, and Wa
drobe,
A Description thereof.
and hath in it many excellent Cham
ers, and other Apartments with their several Conve
iences; Also there hath been much good painting,
ome of which is yet to be seen, tho much defaced;
e Chambers are high between floors, but especially
e Gallery or Dining Room: In the Kitchin there
a Well in the side of the Wall, the water whereof is
ery good tho little used: The Sclaits have for the
ost part fallen from the Roof, and are daily falling
ith every Storm, so that the Timber, much of which
yet very good and fresh is beginning to rot and con
me, by the rain falling through the house from
oor to floor. The stone Walls are yet in a good Condition, they being considerable thick; In the build
g are many free-stones as Lintels, Jams &c. which
hey say were brought from
Scotland.
I give a more
articular account of this House, because Built in this Country, and to shew how Transient, Passing and Perishing, the Glory and Riches of the World are In this
Castle of Scalloway
some
English
Souldiers for so
time kept Garrison, when their Army was in
S
land.
The Church of
Wisdale,
which belongeth to t
Parish is much frequented by the Superstitious Coun
People,
Church of
Wisdale.
who light Candles therein, drop Money in a
about it, go on their bare knees round it, and to wh
in their Straits and Sickness they have their Rec
u
yea some are so silly as to think, that if they be in a distress, tho not at this Church, yet if they turn t
faces to it, God will hear them. One of the Justi
told us, that tho they have laid out themselves to
these Superstitious Conceits Eradicated yet they c
not get it altogether effectuated, but still they contin
among the People. A Minister also told me, that was much frequented by Women, who when th
desire to Marry, went to this Church making th
Vowes and saying their Prayers there, so assuri
themselves, that God would cause Men come in
of them; But this is not now so much in use as fo
merly
Isle of
Trouar.
Before
Scalloway
lyeth a little Isle called
Trou
two or three Miles long, wherein are a few F
milies.
Parish of
Neston.
The third Parish is
Neston
to the East of the
Main,
which belongs 4 Churches, two on the
Main,
a
other two in Isles; in
Neston
is good Harbouring a
many Grey Fishes.
Isle of
Whalsey.
To the N. East lyes the Isle of
Whalsey,
wherein a Church, it is about three Miles long, and as ma
broad. Here are great Rats and very numero
which do infest the Isle, destroying their Corns a
other Goods.
The
Skerries.
From
Whalsey
to the East lies the
Skerries,
seve
broken Isles, wherein is a Church, here are two go
Harbours, but dangerous to enter, by reason of Roc
that ly before them, but when in, Ships will ri
very safely: There are no Pites in them, but ma
hips being cast away upon them, the Inhabitants
ake use of the Wrack for Burn-wood, and also bring
me Pites from
Whalsey.
Here was cast away that
eat and Rich Ship, called the
Ca
melan
of
Amsterdam
n. 1664. when the War was between us and the
ollanders,
computed to the value of 3000000. of
ders,
wherein were some Che
s of Coined Gold (of
hich more above in our
Description
of
Orkney
) and one of the Men as they report, were saved but 4 who
ere on the Top mast, discovering the Land; But
fore they could give timeous advertisement to the Captain, the Ship struck on a Rock, and the Mast
reaking by the Deck, the Top thereof fell on one of
he skerries, and so these 4 Men perished not with
he rest of their Company; They say for 20 days after
he Inhabitants of the
Skerries
drank liberally of the
ong Liquors driven on shore in Casks. It is said
his Ship to Richly Laden was bound for the
East-
ndies.
In the way from
Brassa Sound
to
Neston,
lyes the
lind Rock called the
Ʋ nicorn,
The Rock called the
Unicorn.
the Top whereof is seen at a low Ebb, upon which the Ship called the
Ʋ nicorn
was cast away, wherein was
William Kinca
dy
of
Grange,
who pursuing the Earl of
Bothwel,
followed him so
ose, that they were within Gun shot of one another,
ut
Bothwel
coming first through
Brassa Sound
got in
Pilot, which
range
neglecting to do, they both Sailed through the Northern passage of
Brassa Sound;
nd
Bothwels Pilot
having a great Reward promised him, if they should escape,
an down by the side of
his Rock upon which the
Ʋ nicorn
did spl
et, and so
othwel
got free of the danger he was in, by this
ot pursuit. It is most dangerous Sailing among these Isles without a Pilot.
The 4th Parish is
Delton
on the Main,
Parish of
Delton.
wherein are
wo Churches, it lyeth North East and South East; Here are many Grey Fishes taken, whereas in the Northern Isles of
Ʋ nst
and
Yell
they lay out themselves m
for the taking of White Fish as Killing Ling, &c.
Isles of
Fishholm, Mikle Rue and little Rue.
The parish of
Sansting and Esting.
On the East lyes
Fisholm,
to the North-East
L
Rue,
and on the West
Meikle Rue,
8 Miles long, a
two Miles broad, wherein a good Harbour. All th
Isles have their own advantages.
The 5th is
Sansting
and
Esting
lying on the Main
tween
Delton
and
Wars
wherein are two Kirks, one
Sansting,
and another in
Esting.
The way in t
Parish is very bad, and the People are said to be
mong the poorest and naughtiest in all the Countre
Here is good pasture for Sheep, and the best Wo
As also the best Shelties.
The Isles of
Vemantrie Oxney
&c.
Nigh to
Sansting
and
Esting
ly several smal pleas
Isles, as
Ʋ emantrie
a pleasant Isle full of Harbou
Oxney, Papa little, Hilesha
&c.
Paroch of
Waes.
Isle of
Vatla.
The 6th is
Waes
on the Main to the West, to it
longes 4 Churches, one in
Waes,
another in
Sandra
the 3d in the Isle of
Papa-stour,
and the 4th in t
Isle of
Fowla.
To the South of
Waes
lyeth the Isle
Vatla,
wherein a Cat will not live, of which more af
wardes.
The Isle of
Papa Stour
The Isle of
Papa-stour
is said to be the pleasant little Isle in all this Countrey, two Miles long, a well furnished with Fewel, Grass, Corn, Rabbets, & In it are 4 good Harbours, one to the South, two
the North, and one to the West, nigh to this Isle ly
the
Lyra-Skerries,
so called, because the Lyres (th
Fat Fowls, spoken of in our
Discription of Orkney,
)
frequent this Skerrie.
Isle of
Foula.
Foula
lyes about 18 Miles West from the Main, is about 3 Miles long, wherein a high Rock seen a great distance, I have heard some say, that in a cal
and clear Day, they will see it from
Orkney:
The is only one place in it for Harbouring, which if you
not hit, you will be driven to the Sea, what by Wi
and Tide. Their Cornland is all in one end of it; A
the Inhabitants live most by Fowls and Eggs, which a
y numerous, and they are the best Climbers of
ks in all the Countrey.
The 7th is
North-Mevan
on the Main lying to the
th, wherein are three Kirks,
Hilswick,
Parish of
North Mevan.
Oloberry
and
th-Rhac,
they Report, the People of this Parish be discreet and scivilized, beyond their Neighbour
Parishes; Which, under God, is owing, to the
ours of Mr.
Hercules Sinclair,
sometime Minister
re, reputed to be Zealous and faithful: He, in his
al, against superstition, rased
Cross-Kirk,
in this
sh; Because the People superstitiously frequented
And, when demolished, behind the place where
Altar stood, and also beneath the Pulpit, were
nd several peices of Silver in various shapes, brought
ther as offerings by afflicted People, some being in
form of a Head, others of an Arm, others of a
ot, accordingly as the offerers were distressed in these
ts of the Body; As a Freind of his a present Minister
the Countrey, did inform me. O that the pains
d expence these superstitious Souls have been at,
ght excite, us the more dutifully to serve and Wor
p our God in Spirit and in Truth. There are also
ny mo People in this Parish, who can Write and
ad, and give a tolerable account of their profici
cy in the knowledge of the principles of Religion, then
re are in others.
Before it lyes
Lamma
a small pleasant Isle;
The Isle of
Lamma.
As also
other to the West-North West.
The 8th is
Brassa
an Isle to the East of
Tingmal
and
rwick
to which three Churches do belong,
Parish of
Brassa,
and
Burra.
Isles of
Brassa
and the
Noss.
two in
assa,
but only in one of them they use to attend Ordi
nces, the other being built nigh to the Manse, for
eir late old Ministers Accommodation.
Brassa
is a
out 5 Miles long and two broad, all covered with
eather, except some Cornland by the Coasts; Before
rassa
to the East, lyes the
Noss
of
Brassa,
a small Isle
herein is one Family, it hath a high Rock lying open
the East Sea, and seen by Mariners at a distance.
Isle of
Burra.
The Minister of
Brassa
also hath a Church in the
of
Burra,
which he goeth to every 2d Sabbath, it
eth nigh to the Mainland West South-West from
S
loway,
so that the Minister is obliged to travel fro
the East to the West side of the Mainland, when
goeth to this his Church. The Isle will be three Mi
long divided in the midle into two small Isles,
Isle of
Haveroy.
by a Se
break. The Church is very large and hath a hi
Steeple in it. To the South-South East of
Burra
ly
Haveroy
a Mile and an half long. Both in
Burra
a
Haveroy
is good Pasture, and about them good Fishing
The 9th is
Yell,
an Isle North-East and by the East from the
Main
16 Miles long,
Parish of
Yell.
and as to breadth,
is much like the figure 8 because of the many Cree
and Voes which divide and cut the Land,
Isles of
Yell Haskashie Samphrey, B
ggai
yet
some places it is 6 or 8 Miles broad. In it are
Churches and many old little Chappels, it is more Moss
then some other Isles, tho there be in it some good P
sturage and Cornland; To the East of
Yell
lyes
Harkas
2 Miles long, to the South West
Samphrey,
one Mi
long, to the West South-West
B
gga
,
a Mile and a
hal
long, all pleasant, and well grassed, having muc
Fewel, and especially excellent for Fishing, for if the Win
blow from the West, the Boats can ly on the East if from the East, they can ly on the West side of the
Isles and that nigh to the Shore.
Isle of
Fetlor
To the E. N. East of
Yell
lyes
Fetlor,
5 Miles long and 4 broad, in it some Chappels and Picts Houses,
there are likewise in several other of the Isles; In th
Isle there is a Church, wherein the Minister of
Yell
preacheth every 4th. Sabbath, it used formerly to ha
been served by a Preaching Deacon but the Vicar by h
Diligence hath got the Minister of
Yell
also obliged
serve in
Fetlor,
tho
Yell
be more than sufficient for a
one Man to have the charge of.
Parish of
Unst.
The 10th. Parish is
Ʋ nst,
8 Miles long, and 4 Mil
broad in many places, in it 3 Churches, it is said to
the largest pleasant Isle in all this Country, In it a
3 Harbours,
Uzia Sound, Balta Sound,
and
Burra Fir
re some good Corn-land and Pasturage, also several
Chappels (of which more afterwards) A little Isle
led
Uz
a
lyeth off
Unst
a Mile and an half long, as
ewise several pleasant Holms.
Isles of
Unst
and
Uzia.
Unst
is the most Nor
n Isle in the
King of Britains Dominions,
under the
degree of latitude.
Thus I have given some account of the several Pa
hes within the bounds of the Isles and Countrey of
land,
and hinted at, if not all,
Principal Isles.
yet the greatest part
the Isles, the Principal whereof are
Unst, Yell, Fetlor,
ssa
and
Burra.
Whence we see there is no Minister here, but hath
least 2 Churches,
Ministers exposed to much trouble and danger.
wherein he dispenseth Gospel
dinances, and some of them have 3, and others 4,
me of which Churches are at a great distance from
e another, to travel to which is not only toilsome and
ngerous to the Respective Ministers, they also not
ving little Manses or Houses for their Accomodation,
en they come to many of them; tho often when
rms do arise, they will be detained in the Isles, for
e time until they lessen: Not only I say, is this
ublesome to the Ministers, but highly prejudicial to
People, among whom the Work of the Gospel is
atly thereby retarded (as we had occasion likewise
ote concerning
Orkney
) few of the People using to
air to other Churches, when there is not publick
orship at their own, which at most will be but one of
Sabbaths, and in many places but one in three or
r, and in some not to be had for some Moneths,
ich as undoubtedly it occasioneth great Ignorance; many gross Scandals, as Adulteries, Fornications
&c,
e Faithful preaching of the Gospel doing much if
to convince and convert, yet to moralise a People
put a restraint to these horrid Enormities.
And tho the difficulty would not be small,
There could be some moe Parishes here.
if at all could be got done to have Ministers constantly to
ach in the several Chuches, even in the most consi
able Isles, yet there might be some moe Ministers here than there are, 4 or 5 at least to whom the Tith
if rightly imployed could afford a sufficient maintai
ance; As one Minister more in the parish of
Dunrossne
on the main, and another in the Isle of
Yell &c,
whi
Charges at present are very great, and cannot well
served by the Ministers they have. The Tithes a
farmed to Viccars, a kind of inferiour Tacks-men, w
in some places do not only oppress the People, but a
uneasie to the Ministers, not paying them what th
are obliged to pay, till they please, which often th
will not do for some years. The Ministers sufferi
by this piece of Injustice, laid it before the
Commission,
one of their Greivances, which they craved might
redressed, and for that end, Application might be ma
to the Government,
CHAP. VIII. An account of the Ancient Monuments, Curi
sities, strange Providences,
&c.
most obser
able in the Isles of
Zetland.
THE Works of Creation and Providence are all
ry wonderful,
Observable things in
Zetland.
sought out of them who have pl
sure therein, among which some more ordinarly oc
and are the subject of our meditation, and others no
commonly presenting themselves are the more surprisi
and amusing, both which are to be had a due rega
unto, they being either mediatly or immediatly, by without 2d. Causes, the Work of the Lord, and Operation of his Hands: And seing there are s
things that deserve their own observation, which eit
I had occasion to see, or to hear of in
Zetland,
I
give a brief Relation thereof, not denying but t
there may be other things no less if not more observa
there, which we came not to the knowledge of.
The Picts Houses which are frequent through this
ountrey,
Concerning the Picts Houses.
the Inhabitants take much notice of, as be
g the Ancientest Monuments they have, some of which
e more, others less ruinous, they are round in the
m of some Dove-coats, or something like un
an Egg bulging out in the middle, but narrower at
e bottom, and yet more narrow at the top, They
ave a little door for an entry, at which a man of an
rdinary stature could not enter without bowing, with
which door, there is a Stair going up between two
one Walls, leading to the several Apartments, instead
Windows they have Slits or long narrow Holes in
e Wall, such as are in many of our old Castles for the
onveyance of light unto them; they are strongly built,
t the conveniency for dwelling hath been but little,
or their Diameter is but about 10 or 12 Foot, and their
eight scarce 20 or 24, I think these Picts Houses are much like
Arthurs Oven
upon the Water of
Carron
in
rling-Shire.
These have been the Domiciles or Dwellings of the
icts,
Observe thereupon
the old if not the first Inhabitants of this Coun
ey, who were very numerous in the
North of Scotland,
ed in
Orkney,
having their own Kings, as hath been
id in our
Description of Orkney.
They are convenient
y situated through the Isles, each one being within the
ight of another, hence in a few hours, advertisement could
e given by Fire, or other signs they might condescend upon, through the whole Countrey, signifying unto them any danger, that being thereby alarmed, they might meet together, or be upon their own defence. These Houses are also called
Burgh
,
which in the old T
utonick or Saxon Language,
Rich: Verstegan in his Antiquities of the English Nation and their Saxon Kings.
signifyeth a Town having a Wall or some kind of an Enclosure about it; as also a Castle, for as one observeth in his
Dictionary, or Explanation of our most ancient English words; All places that in old time had among our Ancestours the name of Burrough, Bury or Burug were places one way or other fenced and fortifyed.
Whence it appears, that these Houses have been Castles, or places of Defence, to the Pic
Seing it is generally acknowledged, that both the Pic
and the Saxons, were originally descended, of the sa
German Nation:
and so might call their Castles by t
same name. I have also heard it observed, That in
Orkn
several places, wherein they used of old to bury th
Dead were called Burghs, so likewise these Houses
Zetland
might serve for the same purpose, from the Sax
Word
Byring, or Buriging, or Borogeing,
which we n
call
Burying.
No place called
Thule
here
I enquired if there was any Place or Hill here, whi
they called
Thule
or
Ʋ le,
if so be we could receive a
Information or Light from them concerning the
Th
of the Ancients,
but they answered they knew none
that name, only there was an Isle, wherein a high
called
Foula,
on the west side of the Mainland, but suppose that ever the
Ancient Romans
understood
Th
thereby, beside other things that might be alledged,
would be a manifest streatching of, and an offering vi
lence to the word: But altho what this place is, ha
been much controverted, by Ancient and Modern A
thors attempting the Discovery thereof, yet it is gen
rally agreed upon, that it is toward the North, a
many take it to be one of the British Isles, and a late A
thor in an
Essay concerning the Thule of the Ancients,
e
deavoureth to prove it to be the
North East part of Br
tain,
Conr. Cel. Itinere
aith.
lying over against the Isles of
Orkney,
citing som
Authors to this purpose, as
Conradus Celtes. Orc
dibus qua cincta suis Tyle & Glacialis Insula & Claudian, Maduerunt sanguine fuso Orcades incalu
ictorum sanguine Thule; Scotorum cumulos flev
glacialis lerne.
And others who call
Thule, Britann carum Insularum septentriona
ssimam,
the most Norther
of the British Isles.
Island
also lays claim to it, and t
above cited Author supposeth
Island
to be the
Thule,
b
I judge without any shaddow of Truth, for beside wh
is now said,
Rich. Verstegan.
I
greatly doubt if ever the
Romans
had th
knowledge of
Island,
their Eagles never having com
and been displayed to the North of
Scotland,
or
Orkney,
peru fuerat Romani Scotia limes.
Saith the great
Sca
er. Ptolomey
will have it to be among the Isles of
tland,
and
Boeth.
our Historian distinguisheth be
ween a 1st and a 2d
Thule
calling
Ila
the 1st and
Leuisa
e 2d, which are reckoned among the Isles called
He
des:
So saith
Boeth.
"Ptolomaeus inter Schethlandi
s insulas quae ultra Orchades sunt,
Hec. Boeth Hist.
aut proxime Norvegiam sitam vult, haud quaquam propter immen
m intercapedinem intelligi potest. Nos autem Ilam primam Leuisam Hebridum praestantissimam secundam Thulen vo amus. But I incline to think, that altho some
ight design a particular place by the Thule, yet gene
lly by a Synecdoche usual with the
Roman Authors,
ey might denote all these places remote from them
the North, and especially
Britain,
and the Nothern
arts thereof, whether their Arms did come.
In the Parish of
North-Mevan
is
Mons Ronaldi
or
ons Hill,
the highest in all this Country,
Mons Ronalds
or
Rons Hill
the highest in the Countrey.
from which
ome do say, they will see the Body of the Sun all the
ight over in the Moneth of
June;
which cannot be
s the Reason alledged in our
Description of Orkney
why
could not be seen from the top of the Hill of
Hoy;
o Reason and Experience shew they have a clearer
ight in
Zetland,
in the Night time, dureing the Sum
r Season, then they can have in
Orkney; Zetland
be
ng more then a degree to the North of
Orkney
and con
equently ay the farther North, the shorter Night, till
t length there be no Night at all, so that if it were
ossible to sail holding a Northern Course, till we were
nder the Pole, having it for our Zenith or Vertical Point, we would have a continual Day without any Night for several Moneths, the Sun all that time de
cribing a Circle almost parallel to our Horizon, I say,
lmost parallel, because beside the Diurnal, there is al
o the Annual Motion of the Sun in the Eclyptick. O now exact and beautiful an order and symmetrie is to be seen in the Works of God; they all speaking for the goodness, Wisdom and Power of their Maker.
What a wonderful Creature is the Sun,
Coming fo
as a Bridegroom out of his Chamber,
A Reflection thereupon
and rejoiceing as a str
Man to run his Race,
absolving every day his circ
round our Terrestrial Globe, from East to West, a
travelling every year between his Tropicks (the Lim
and Boundaries prescribed him of God beyond whi
he is not to pass) from South to North and from No
to South, giving shorter days to those, who inhab
the midle of the Earth, under the Torrid Zone,
th
not being able to bear his longer continuance abo
their Horizon; because of his scorching heat,
longer to these who can better endure it under
temperate, and yet longest to these who live near to the Frigid Zones or to the Poles, whom his h
cannot prejudge, as it doth these who live under or n
to the Line or midle of the Earth on whom he daeth down his Perpendicular Rays, wherefore the W
dom of his Maker will have him to stay a shorter th
above their Horizon.
How wonderful then in Cou
and excellent in working is this God, whereupon not only Saints do bless him for the benefites wherewith they are lo
en, but all his Works do praise him after their manner.
Caves.
There are several Caves here or hollow places in a
through the Rocks; particularly there is one in the
of
Ʋ nst,
entering from the Sea at one side of the I
and opposite thereunto on the other side, there is a
ther going in, as it were meeting the former, unto
end of any of which, none will undertake to goe, t
it hath been attempted, the rage of the Sea in th
Caverns of the Earth, the failing of the Light of D
and the raggedness of the Rocks by which they m
pass making it terrible unto them, as also the thick
of the Air, something annoying them; but the Ent
thereunto being opposite one to another, giveth grou
to judge, that it is an continued cave from the one s
of the Isle to the other, tho 4 Miles broad: which c
t be thought to be artificial but natural washen
rough by the violence of the Waves; and the less
onder it is for it so to be, if we consider, that if
lla cavat lapidem,
much more
rapidi & tumidi fluctus
abunt,
that if in a short time the drop will wear the
one, much more in the Tract of some Thousands of
ears the rageing and tempestuous Waves daily break
ng on the Rocks will produce this Effect, and that
ore in some places than in others, where the Rock will
e more friable and brittle, and the force of the Waves
ess broken by the bounding and swadleing sand.
There is something like unto this yet more surpri
ing in the Isle of
Foula,
A hole in
Foula.
on the West side of the Main
and, if it be true what is storied of it: In this Isle on the top of a hill there is a hol the mouth whereof may.
e (and some say now is) covered with a Slait-stone going downwards to the bottom of the Rock, which is said to be of a great depth, particularly a Dutch Ship-
aster is reported to have made a trial thereof, for the gratifying his curiosity, by taking up a barrel of lines with him, which he let all down, and yet could not found the bottom: Some say he let down 2. barrels, which is very wonderful, considering a barrel of lines is reckoned to be several, some say 9. Miles of length: What can be the reason of such a Conveyance from the top of the Rock to the bottom, and further if we may give credit to what is said, I cannot possibly imagine, for that such a thing should be done by Art, we cannot well conceive the reason why, nor the Manner how it could be done, and that nature should have such an operation will be as difficult to unfold.
That this Countrey is generally Mossy,
Dangerous Traveling.
soft and spungey hath been formerlie told, as likewise that it is dangerous for people to travel through it; of which many Instances may be given, I shall only name two, which
I
had from the Ministers of the respective bounds, one Traveling in the Isle of
Yell,
fell unto such a Mossy and loose piece of ground, his Horse beneath him, Furniture and all sank doun, and was no more seen, and he himself with great difficulty struggled out and was save
And another in the Parish of
Tingwal
on the Mai
not long since, walking on foot not far from his o
House, fell into such another place, wherein there d
not appear to be any hazard and over which several times for
erly he thought he had passed with safety and sank doun to the arm pits, but he by stretching o
his Arms, keeping his head above the surface of t
ground, by the help of his servant then providential
with him and a staff fixed in the ground, got wrestl
out: So dangerous it is Traveling here even to the inhabitants.
Variation of the Compass remarkable as at
Udsta.
On the West side of the Isle of
Fetlor,
there is a plac
whereon a Gentlemans House called
Ʋ dsta
into whic
place or House if a Mariners Needle and Compass b
brought, the Needle resteth not in its Poles, as it doth i
other places, but hath a tremulous undulating motio
and sometimes turneth round, as some say, to all th
points of the Horizon; And a Gentleman who was inquisitive to know the truth of this told me, that upo
trial he found it to be so, and further to try the experiment he took the Compass to the top of the House where it had the same effect. And one of the Minister of the Northern Isles informed me that if any Ship o
Boat Sailed by, or came nigh unto that place, the sam
did befall their Compass.
And on a Hill in
Whalsey.
Also there is a little Hill nig
to the Sea on the West-side of the Isle of
Whalsey.
t
which if the Compass be brought, the Flowr de Luce, o
that point, which is ordinarily obverted to the North turneth about to the South, but if the Compass be removed the distance of two of three foot from the top o
the Hill, there is no such effect produced: This th
late Minister of the place assured me of, having trie
the experiment.
Observes thereupon.
The many wonderful properties and effects of th
Magnes
or
Load-Stone,
and of other things endue
with, or which do partake of this Magnetick vertue
discovered in these latter Ages, hath deservedly raised
e Admiration of
Philosophers,
and awakened them to
ake a diligent enquirie and Search, into the reasons of
hese strange Phenomena. That the Magnes hath two
oles answering to the Poles of the World, to which it
o
eth it self; That the Load Stone draweth Iron unto
That Iron brought unto and rubbed upon the Load-Stone receiveth from it that Attractive, or as some will
ave it, that impulsive vertue and power, and other
alities inherent in it [hence the invention of the Needle, so useful and necessary to Mariners for directing their Courses) That if there be two spherical Load-
tones, they will turn to one another, as each of them
oth to the
oles of the Earth, and if they be detained
a contrary position, they will flee from one another:
nd so is it with the needle in the compass, when a
oad Stone or piece of Iron is brought unto it, the
eedle either cometh to, or fleeth from it according to
s situation, wherefore Mariners are careful that no
on be in▪ nor lying near unto their Light-room where
e compass standeth.
Renat Des. Cartes in his Princip. Philos. reckoneth 34.
That tho you should take the
eedle from its beloved Pole, yet when let alone and
ft to it self, it will incontinently move and take no
st, until it return thereunto, These strange and un
uth Properties hath the Load Stone, as likewise
any others, no less astonishing, reckoned up by it's admirers; many of which are known to the rudest
d most illiterate Mariner, but to explain the nature of
e Load-Stone, and to resolve and answer the Propo
ls of Nature upon the head, by giving the Reasons of
ese admirable effects,
hoc opus, hic labor est,
this is the difficulty, which hath vexed many, and taken up the studies of the sagest and most ingenious Modern Philoso
ers.
I shall not presume to give the reason of this strange
henomenon,
An Essay concerning the Reason thereof.
the Needles leaving it's rest at the Pole
nd betaking it self to such a motion, whether tremu
us and undulating, or circular round the points of the compass; or the Flower de Luce, turning to the So
Only I would suggest two things, which if they t
not to clear what is proposed, they will furt
hold out how wonderful the Load-stone and Properties are. First, upon the ordinary suppositi
whereby these Properties are explained, that the Ea
is as a great Load-stone, on the surface and exter
parts whereof a great number of volatile screw-li
Particles, called the
Magnetick matter,
doe uncessan
move, travelling from Pole to Pole alongst the surfa
of the Earth, whereby the Poles of the Load-stone a
the point of the Needle affected with its vertue, a
obverted to the Poles of the World; Which suppositi
being made, we would know that this Ma
netick matter may not alwayes have the sa
motion, but in some places it may be upward a
perpendicular to the surface of the Earth; so that these places where they thus move perpendicularly, t
Needle will not be determined to one point, more th
to another of the Horizon, this matter alike affecti
all the parts of the Needle, by its perpendicular motio
which the
Ingenious Rohault
alledgeth as the reason, w
the Compass serveth not the use of the
Hollanders,
wh
they have Sailed far to the North, in order to find o
a new and shorter passage to the
East-Indies,
th
Needle then not turning to the Poles as it doth in ot
places, but alike to all the points of the Horiz
the motion of the Magnetick matter in these more No
thern places, being in Lines perpendicular to the surfa
of the Earth: and so likewise it may fall out in ot
places, where a greater quantity of this Magneti
matter riseth from the Earth.
A 2d. thing that I would take notice of, is that t
Magnetick matter in it's passage from Pole to P
meets with several Iron Mines, into which it go
aside, so diverting its straight Course between the Pol
because it finds an easier passage through the Pores the Iron, then by passing through other places; he
e variation of the Compass is Judged to be, so much
kt of by Mariners, in some places greater, and in
hers less, accordingly as the Magnetick matter is
t or less determined by the several Iron Mines, into
hich it turneth aside; Now in some places it may so
out, that there may be a greater quantity of Iron,
ough which the Magnetick matter passing and from
ich it arising, may cause such a Motion, whereby
needle not only inclines not to one point more
n to another in the Horizon, but also by the Mag
ick matters ascending from and returning to the Iron
nes, it may produce such an irregular motion in
e needle: And that there is a great quantity of Iron
Zetland,
may be knoun by the remarkable variation the Compass there, for as Mariners inform us when
y Sail by the South-End of
Zetland,
they find the
ation to be but one point, but when passing the
orth end, they find it varies 2 points, and upon this
iation in directing their Course to this or the other
ce, they make their reckoning: Which is very ob
vable that in less then a degree of latitude (for no
e will the length of the Isles of
Zetland
be) it va
a a point of the Compass, which must be, according the Reason commonly assigned, because there is
th Iron in these Isles, and more especially on the
st side of the Isle of
Fetlor;
for other places of the
e Isle have no such Influence on the Compass.
That yet much if not the greatest part of the diffi
ty remains I readily grant,
Some difficulty remains.
and leaves it to the study
he learned and curious, and indeed in many things acknowledge our Ignorance hath been reputed no all part of Wisdom, so hard it is to solve and unridle
tures Secrets, wherein the greatest Lights have
n benighted, the following often rasing the Foun
ions of the Doctrines of the Former: How won
ful are the Works of God, that in Wisdom he hath
e them all, And how narrow and shallow are Capacities, that we cannot find out the Works of God, even the most sensible and obvious; How tha
ful also should we be to God; who hath vouchsa
to us the Light of clearly revealed Truth▪ which taken heed unto shall make us perfect, and lead u
Glory.
Little Chappels.
There are in these Isles many little Chappels
generally ruinous, as in the Isle of
Ʋ nst
there are and upwards, In the Isle of
Yell
there are 21. many in other Isles, I saw one of them in the Pa
of
Tingwal,
wherein also there are several m
; would have contained scarce 30. People, as I ju
and tho so little, yet very great Stones were in Walls, which was strange to me, how that in Countrey, where their Beasts are weak, and they
not the help of Machines, they got them lifted laid. These are said to have been built by Supers
ous Zealots in the times of
opery, or as some ra
think by Ship wrackt Seamen, who coming safe shore, have Built them according to their Vows m
by them when in danger, which they dedicated t
many several Saints, whom they looked upon as Patrons of their Respective Chappels. About w
also Men and Women of Old had their night walk
which occasioned much uncleanness, but now
walkings are but little used.
Snails which are medicinal found about the walls.
About the Walls of these old Chappels are fo
Snails, called
Shell-Snails,
which they dry and
verize, mingling the dust with their drink for the Jadice, by which means these who labour under this s
ness in 3. or 4. days time will recover of the sa
but if they let this dustly for a Year, without mak
use of it, it turneth into small living Creatures or V
mine, which they dry and bray over again, if t
make any further use of it.
A mettal like Gold found in
Ʋ zta.
In
Ʋ zta
an Isle lying nigh to
Ʋ nst,
there is a N
tal gotten having the colour of Gold, which sev
of the
Dutch
Merchants have taken with them to
H
burgh,
and tried it there, but by the force of Fire it not become Liquid, but crumbled into small pieces; It is to be had there in great plenty. This sheweth there may be Minerals in these Isles, tho not known nor searched for.
In the Church-Yard of
Papa-Stour,
A grave-stone in
Papa-Stour.
in the Parish of
Waes
lyeth a Stone 5 foot long, at the one end two, and at the other one foot broad, concave from the one end to the other, of which the common Tradition goes, that this stone came a shore on that
sle with a dead Man tied to it, who lys buried there beside it. It appears to have been the Grave stone of some Person of Note in the Country, which sheweth they have also had that Custom, of laying at least some of their dead in such large Stones made Concave, and cut out for the purpose, which hath been frequent in many places with us in
Scotland.
At a little distance from
Papa Stour,
A Rock i
the Sea where th
ruines of an old house.
lyes a Rock encompassed with the Sea called
Frau-a-Stack,
which is a
Danish
word, and signifieth,
our Ladys Rock,
upon which are to be seen, the Ruines of a House, wherein they say, a Gentleman did put his Daughter, that so she might be shut up and secluded from the company of Men, but tho a Maiden when put in, yet she was found with Child when brought out, notwithstanding of her being so closly kept, but whither this came to pass by a Golden Shower (the most powerful Courtship) or not, the Country hath lost the Tradition: However it seemeth strange, how a House should be Built on such a bare and small Rock, when so many large and pleasant Isles were near unto it.
The three Iron-Cannons formerly mentioned now lying in the
Citadale
of
Lerwick,
being rusted by the Sea,
Cannons discharge themselves.
wherein they had lien for 80. Years; The Inhabitants of
Lerwick
to take of the rust, and so fit them for their use, about 9 Years ago did set a heap of Pites about them, which they puting Fire unto, the Guns so soon as they were warmed and hot, did all discharge themselves to the great surprisal of the Spectatours and the Balls as some observed, went half over
Brassa Sound.
Which deserveth some remark, that the Powder all that time should retain its Elastick Force, th
water if at all, yet not so insinuating if self with th
Powder, as to wash it away, or much diminish it
vertue. These who were Eye witnesses gave me this Relation.
Fishes and Cattel
ittle or no
iver.
It is observable that the former Year 1699 the Fishes had little or no Liver, but something black i
lieu thereof, which was a great loss to the Fishers, they making their Oyl of those Livers, As also the Oxen Sheep, Swine, &c. had little or no Fat on their Livers which useth not to be, there being a kind of Consumption upon the Livers of Creatures both by Sea and Land; which mindeth me of
Rom.
8.22.
Man's sins making the Creation to groan, and earnestly long as with an uplifted head, for a deliverance,
So that it the Creatures could speak with
Balaam
's
Ass,
they would reprove the madness and sin of Man.
In
Vaila
no Cat will live.
There is a little Isle on the West side of
Waes
called
Vaila,
wherein there is no Cat, neither will any stay tho brought in, as hath been done for trial, but will quickly be gone, they either dying, or betaking themselves to Sea, they endeavour to sweem to the next Isle: Yet about 50. Years ago there was one seen upon this Isle, about that time when a Gentleman the Proprietor thereof was Tormented and put to death by the Witches, but never any were seen since, save what were brought in for trial, as now said. The reason of this I could not learn from the Ministers, who gave the Information, it is like because of the Air, or the smell of something upon the Isle, tho not perceivable by the Inhabitants, which agreeth not with the Temper and Constitution of these Animals.
nop of
ebister
here a
arlet or
izard
ed.
About a Mile from
Tingwal
to the North, there is a Hill called the
Knop
of
Kebister
or
Luggies Know,
nigh to which Hill there is a House called
Kebister,
where a Varlet or Wizard lived, comonly designed
Luggie,
concerning whom it was reported that when the Sea was so Tempestuous, that the Boats durst not go off to the Fishing, he used to go to that Hill or Know, wherein a hole, into which he let down his Lines and took up any Fish he pleased, as a Cod or Ling &c. which no other could do but himself: Also when Fishing at Sea, he would at his pleasure take up any rosted Fish with his Line, with the Intrals or Guts out of it, and so ready for his use: This was certainly done by the Agency of evil Spirits, with whom he was in Compact and Covenant, but the OEconomy of the Kingdom of Darkness is very wonderful and little known to us. He being convicted of Witchcraft was burnt nigh to
Scalloway.
As for Witches I did not
ear much of them,
Concerning witches.
as if they abounded more in this, than other Countries, tho I make no question, but that there are many such here thus deluded by the Devil: There is not then such ground for what is so commonly talkt by many with us anent their Devilry, which might have affrighted us if given heed unto, as if it were dangerous going or living there; Tho it is said here, there are many of this Hellish Stamp in
Island, Lapland,
and other places to the North of
Zetland,
which may occasion the mistake.
We said before that there were but few Rats,
Concerning Rats and Mice.
and that only in some of the Isles, and thought to come out of Ships; but that they had Mice in aboundance; yet in the Isles of
Burra
and
Ha
kashy
no Mice are to be found, yea if they take some dust or Earth out of these Isles to other places where they are, they will forsake such places, where the dust is laid.
When Rats leave the Ships it is lookt upon by Mariners as fatal to these Ships.
It may be for the like reason, why no Cats can or will live in
Ʋ aila.
Sometimes when the Ships are lying nigh Land, the Rats will come ashore, which when any of the
Hollanders
or others see, they look upon it as Fatal to the Ship out of which they come, portending that her end some way or other will shortly approach; And likewise it is observed that these Rats will not live abo
3 or 4 Years in that Land to which they come. So
of our Seamen tell us of the like as to their Ships; is talkt also that these Creatures will leave Houses, b
fore any dismal accident befal them. What grou
there is either for the one or the other
I
know not, b
if true it will be hard,
I
suppose, to give the reas
thereof.
Evil Spirits
Not above 40 or 50 Years ago, almost every Family had a
Brouny
or evil Spirit so called, which serve
them, to whom they gave a Sacrifice for his Service
as when they Churned their Milk, they took a pa
thereof and sprinckled every corner of the House wit
it for Brounies use, likewise when they Brewed, the
had a stone which they called
Brounies Stone,
where
there was a little hole, into which they poured som
Wort for a Sacrifice to Brouny. My Informer a Minister in the Country told me, that he had converse
with an old Man, who when young used to Brew, an
sometimes read upon his Bible, to whom an old Woman in the House said, that Brouny was displeased with that Book he read upon, which if he continued to do they would get no more service of Brouny; But h
being better instructed from that Book, which wa
Brounies Eye-sore and the object of his wrath, when he Brewed, he would not suffer any Sacrifice to be given to Brouny, whereupon the 1st. and 2d. Brewings were spilt and for no use, tho the Wort wrought well yet in a little time it left off working and grew cold▪ but of the 3d Browst or Brewing he had Ale very good, tho he would not give any Sacrifice to Brouny▪ with whom afterwards they were no more troubled
I
had also from the same Informer, that a Lady in
Ʋ n
now deceased told him, that when she first took up
House, she refused to give a Sacrifice to Brouny upon which the 1st. and 2d. Brewings misgave likewise but the 3d. was good; and Browny not being regarded nor rewarded, as formerly he had been, aban
ed his wonted service. Which cleareth that Scrip
re
Resist the Devil and he will flee from you.
Ja.
4.7.
They also had
acks of Corn, which they called
Brounies Stacks,
which
o they were not bound with straw-ropes, or any way
need, as other Stacks use to be, yet the greatest storm
Wind was not able to blow any straw off them.
Now I do not hear of any such appearances the Devil makes in these sles,
Evil Spirits not now so frequently seen as formerly.
so great and and many are
e blessings which attend a Gospel dispensation: The
ounies▪ Fairies and other evil Spirits that haunted
were familiar in our Houses, were dismissed, and
ed at the breaking up of our Reformation (if we
ay except but a few places not yet well reformed
om Popish Dregs) as the Heathen Oracles were sil
ced at the coming of our LORD, and the going
rth of his Apostles; so that our first noble Reformers
ight have returned and said to their Master,
Lu: 10.17.
as the 70
ce did;
Lord even the Devils are subject to us through
y Name.
And tho this restraint put upon the Devil
as far latter in these Northern places then with us, to
hom the Light of a Preached Gospel, did more early
ine, yet now also do these Northern Isles enjoy the
uits of this restraint.
The appearance, of an old Man in the Water.
About two Years and an half or three Years ago,
ere was a Boat passing with several Gentlemen of the Countrey in it, and by the way in the
Voe
of
Quarf,
through which they went,
here appeared something
nto them with its Head above the Water, which as
hey could discern, had the Face of an old Man, with
long Beard hanging down; first it appeared at some
istance from them, and then coming nearer to their
o
t, they had a clear sight of it; The sight was
very strange and affrighting, that all in the Boat were very desirous to be on Land, tho the Day was fair
nd the Sea calm; a Gentleman declaring, as a Mini
ter in Company with them, and saw this sight in
ormed me,) that he never saw the like, tho he had tra
elled through many Seas.
And of a Woman.
I heard another remarkable story like unto this, th
about 5 Years since, a Boat at the Fishing drew h
Lines, and one of them, as the Fishers thought, having some great Fish upon it, was with greater difficulty th
the rest raised from the Ground, but when raised came more easily to the furface of the Water upon which a Creature like a Woman presented it self at the side of the Boat, it had the Face, Arms Breasts, Shou
ders &c. Of a Woman, and long Hair hanging dot
the Back, but the nether part from below the Breast was beneath the Water, so that they could not understand the shape thereof: The two Fishers who were the Boat being surprized at this strange sight, one
them unadvisedly drew a Knife, and thurst it into h
Breast, whereupon she cryed, as they judged,
Al
and the Hook giving way she fell backward and w
no more seen: The Hook being big went in at h
Chin and out at the upper Lip. The Man who thr
the Knife into her is now dead, and, as was observed never prospered after this, but was still haunted by an evil Spirit, in the appearance of an old Man, who,
he thought, used to say unto him,
Will ye do such a thing who Killed the Woman;
the other Man then in the Bo
is yet alive in the Isle of
Burra.
This a Gentleman and his Lady told me, who said they had it from the Baillie of that place to which the Boat did belong:
being so strange
I
enquired at severals thereane
which tho, many were ignorant of, yet some said that they had heard thereof, and judged it to be very tru
Creatures in the likeene
of Men frequently seen at Sea.
That there are Sea-Creatures having the likeness
Men and Women seems to be generally acknowledge
by all who have enquired thereunto, they having found it confirmed by the teffimony of many in sever
Countreys, as their Histories do bear. Hence are a
counts given of those Sea Monsters, the Meermen an
Meermaids, which have not only been seen but apprehended and keept for some time. And hence probably the fiction of the Poets concerning the Sirenes, ha
had its rise; these enchanting Songsters, translated
eermaids by our Lexicographers, whose snare Ulysses
happily escaped.
They tell us that several such Creatures do appear to fishers at Sea, particularly such as they call
Sea-Trowers,
Several such Creatures appear to Fishers at Sea as Sea Trowes
eat rolling Creatures, tumbling in the Waters, which
they come among their nets, they break them, and sometimes takes them away with them; if the Fishers
e them before they come near, they endeavour to
eep them off with their Oars or long Staves, and if
ey can get them beaten therewith, they will endeavour to do it: The Fishers both in
Orkney
and
Zetland
e affraid when they see them, which panick fear of
eir's makes them think and sometimes say, that it is
e Devil in the shape of such Creatures, whether it be
or not as they apprehend, I cannot determine.
owever it seems to be more then probable, that
il Spirits frequent both Sea and Land.
A Gentleman in the Parish of
Dunressness
told one
the Ministers in this Countrey,
Fresh Cockles got on the Land.
that about 5 Years
nce a Plough in this Parish did cast up fresh Cockles, to the place where the Plough was going, was three
arters of a Mile from the Sea; which Cockles the
entlemen saw made ready and eaten. How these
ell Fishes came there, and should be fed at such a
stance from their ordinary Element
I
cannot know, if they have not been cast upon Land by a violent Storm, such of the Ground of this Parish, especially what
ey Labour lying very low, and the Sea hath been observed in such Storms both, to cast out Stones and
ishes; Or if these Cockels have been found in some
ep Furrow, from which to the Sea there hath been
conveyance by some small stream, upon which the
a hath flowed in stream Tides, especially when there
also some storm blowing. If only Shells were found,
ch as of Oysters and the like, the marvel would not
e great, seeing such are found upon the tops of high
ountains, at a greater distance from the Sea, which in all probability have been there since the Unive
deluge; but that any Shell-Fish should be found some distance from the Sea and fit for use, is son what wonderful and astonishing.
A Tortoise found in the Sand.
Tho no Tortoises use to be found in all these Northern Seas, yet in
Ʋ
te-Firth
in the Parish of
North
there was one found alive upon the sand in an ebb t
Shell of it was given me as a present by a Gentlem
of the Countrey, it is about a Foot length, and a lar
half Foot in Breadth. The Inhabitants thought
strange, never any such having been found in these
formerly, which ever they came to the knowledge
that they could not imagine what to make of it, son saying that it hath fallen out of some
East-India
Ship
a
ing alongst by the Coasts, which looks not so probably.
There is a pl
ce in this Countrey called the
Neip
the Parish of
Neston
looking to the East Sea,
The Parson of
Orphir
killed.
where th
Parson
of
Orphir
in
Orkney
was Killed; the story is thi
Patrick Stewart Earl of Orkney,
as hath been said, w
a great Oppressour, enacting several severe and cru
Acts, whereof complaint was made to
King James
And as it is reported some
Zetlanders
went to the King with their Skin-Coats, laying the oppressed condition of their Countrey before him, wherewith the King was moved, yet altho, not only the Earls Honour and Reputation withall was much stained, and unde
a cloud by reason of his cruel and oppressive wayes but his person was hated and abhored by the People whose Superiour he was, the
Parson of Orphir
d
Zealously stand in the Earls defence, notwithstanding whereof the Indignation and kindled wrath of the ex
asperated People against the Earl increasing, the Parson was forced to flee to
Zetland
for his safety, upon which the People of
Orkney
not quieted, some of them pursued him thither, they say the Pursuers were 4. Brethern of the name of
Sinclar,
who coming to the
Nei
where the Parson had his ordinary residence, they apprehended and dewitted him, one of the Brethren taking a sop of his heart-blood; As for the Earl, being first emprisoned at
Dumbartoun,
he was thence brought to
Edinburgh,
where he was Beheaded. Anno 1614, for Treason and Oppression.
There are also in this Countrey, as well as in
Orkney
many Eagles which destroy their Lambs, Fowls,
Concerning Eagles.
&c. For the preventing of which, some when they
ee the Eagles catching or fleeing away with their prey,
se a Charm, by taking a string whereon they cast some knots, and repeats a form of words, which being done the Eagle lets her prey fall, tho at a great distance from the Charmer, an instance of which I had
rom a Minister, who told me, that about a Month before we came to
Zetland,
there was an Eagle that
ew up with a Cock at
Scalloway,
which one of these Charmers seeing, presently took a string, (his garter as was supposed,) and casting some knots thereupon with the using the ordinary words, the Eagle did let the Cock fall into the Sea, which was recovered by a Boat that went out for that end.
They tell a pleasant story of an Eagle and a Turbot. About 6 Years since an Eagle fell doun on a Turbot sleeping on the surface of the Water;
Concerning an Eagle and a Turbot.
on the East side of
Brassa,
and having fastned his Claws in her, he attempted to flee up, but the Turbot awakning and being too heavy for him to flee up, with endeavoured to
raw him down beneath the Water, thus they strugled for
ome time, the Eagle labouring to go up, and the Turbot to go down till a Boat that was near to them, and beheld the sport took them both, selling the Eagle to the
Hollanders
hen in the Countrey. For they say when the Eagle hath
astned his Clawes in any Creature, he cannot loose them this pleasure, but useth to eat them out, so that the prey sometimes cometh to be a snare to this Rapacious Fowl.
On the West-side of the Mainland,
A Holm frequented by Sea Fowls.
there is a Holm belonging to a Gentleman in the Parish of
Northerne van,
much frequented by Fowl, that when sometimes they go in to it in the Summer season, Fowls of several kinds will flee so thick above their Heads, that th
will cloud the very Air, yet therein there are few
none, during the Winter, but in
February
they use
begin to come by pairs, and for two or 3 Dayes aft
they first come, they will sit so close, that almost they m
be taken hold of, which is imputed to their being wearied after a long flight from some far Countrey▪ The Proprietour of this Holm may almost every Day in Summer take a Basket full of Eggs out of it, and they scarcely be missed, for it is so well furnished, th
none almost can set doun a Foot for young Fowls
Eggs, which are very serviceable to this Gentleman
House, and the Countrey about.
Noss of
Brassa
high.
To the East of
Brassa
is an Isle called the
Noss Brassa,
wherein a ragged Rock looking to South East the highest in all this Countrey, serviceable to Mariners for directing their course when Sailling to the West from Eastern Countreys, some Gentlemen told
that they verily think from the surface of the Water to the top of the Rock, it will be 300 Fathoms, upon which a great many Fowls have their Nett
whose Eggs they take in the Summer time, as also some of the Fowls, by letting a Man doun from the to
of the Rock by a Rope Tied about his middle: Before this Isle lyeth a Rock Raggie On all sides, about 100 Fathomshigh from the surface of the Water, but b
reason of its Raggedness and Declivity, and its being surrounded with Sea on all handes, it is scarce possible t
climb it.
A Holm, dying before it, where Fowls numerous.
Yet the Owners of the Isle being desirous, to be a
the Fowls and Eggs numerous upon it, about 10
Years since there was a Man for the hire of a Co
undertook to climb the lesser Rock, and to fasten
Pales or Stakes thereupon, which he accordingly did, bu
in the cominng down, he fell into the Sea and Perished
The way how they get into this Holm, Remarkable.
The way how they get into this lesser rock is observable, which is thus; opposite to the two Stakes o
the lesser, there are also Stakes fastened on the highe
Rock, it being but 16. fathoms over between the Rocks; to which Stakes, ropes are fastned, reaching from Rock to Rock, the Ropes they put through the
oles of an Engine called a Craddle; all which being so prepared, a Man getteth into the Cradle, and warpeth himself over from the Noss or the greater Rock to the
ffer; and so having made a good purchase of Eggs and
owls bought at the expence of the danger of his life,
returns the same way he went: These Ropes hang
ot on all Winter, but in the Summer time, in the Month of
June
ordinarily, when the Day is calm, they
st the Ropes from the greater to the lesser Rock; Which so they do, they have 1st. some small Rope or
ordage, to which there is a stone fastned, and they
eeping both the ends of this small Rope in their
ands, an able Man throweth the stone into the lesser
ock, and when casten over the stakes, they heave or
ft up this small Rope with a long Pole, that so the
ought of the Rope may be gotten about the stakes; which being done they draw to them the small rope
ll a greater tied to it be brought about also,
and so
oth ends of the greater Rope they secure by the stakes
n the top of the Noss,
Industriae nihil Impossibile Nil tam difficile est quod non solertia vincat.
on which strong and greater
ope the Cradle being put, it runneth from Rock to
ock: Easily a Man in the Cradle goeth from the Noss
the Holm or Rock, by reason of its descent, but with greater difficulty do they return, therefore there is a
mall Rope tied to the Cradle, whereby Men on the
loss help to draw them back. I do not hear that any there such another Cradle is to be found; How many
re the Inventions which Man hath found out.
This Holm is much frequented by Fowls more than
ny other place on the East side of
Zetland,
This Holm frequented by Fowls.
as the
ther Holm of
North-Mevan
is on the West side; the
owls have their Nests on the Holms in a very beautiful order, all set in raws in the form of a Dove-coat, and
ch kind or sort do Nestle by themselves; as the Scarfs
y themselves, so the Cetywaicks, Tominories, Mawes
c. There is a Fowl there called the Scutiallan, of a black colour, and as big as a Wild Duck, which do
live upon the Vomit and Excrements of other Fow
whom they pursue and having apprehended them, th
cause them Vomit up what meat they have lately take not yet digested: The Lords Works both of Natu
and of Grace are wonderful, all speaking forth H
Glorious Goodness, Wisdom and Power.
Concerning the dangers the Inhabitants undergo.
Remarkable are the Dangers, which many in the Isles do undergo in climbing the Rocks for Fowls a
Eggs, especially in
Foula,
where the Inhabitants in the Summer time do most live by this kind of Provision and are judged to be the best climbers of Rocks in a
this Country, for some of them will fasten a Stake o
Knife, as some say, in the ground on the top of the Rock, to which they ty a small Rope or Cord, and
they will come down the face of the Rock with th
in their hand 60 70. or 80. Fathoms, and do return bringing up Eggs and Fowls with them; but indeed very many of them lose their lives this way; ye
it is observed that few old Men are to be seen ther
they being so cut off before they arrive at old Age
Many of them are weary of the dangers and hazard
they daily incur, yet neither will they leave the place nor give over these perilous attempts, all the sad instances of their Friends and Neighbours Perishing an
death cannot have this influence to deter and affrigh
them from undergoing the like hazards:
Labor omnia vincet Improbus & duris urgens in rebus Egestas.
Virg.
At so sma
a rate do they value their lives, that for a few Fow
and Eggs they will endanger them, whereas they might have as good and a much safer living elsewher
As this sheweth both their Folly and their Sin,
Impiger extremos currit Mercator ad Indos, per Ma
e pauperiem fugiens per laxa per Ignes.
what fatigue and danger Men will expose themselves t
for the avoiding Poverty and Straits, for the upholding this Clayie Tabernacle, which ere long will mould
into the dust, and often not so much for the satisfying the necessary cravings of Nature, as the superfluous an
insatiable desires of our Lusts. Sometimes one Ma
will stand on the top of the Rock holding the end
the Rope in his hand, and another will go down,
hich neither is without danger, as they tell us of one
o thus holding his Neighbour did let the rope slip,
d down fell the Climber into the Sea, but providen
ly there being a Boat near by, they got hold of him,
d took him in, and so came home before his Neighbour, who judged him to have perished: The other
an at length came home with great Sorrow and Greif
grating the Death of his Neighbour, but he hearing
he was already come home, was not a little con
unded and astonished at the report until that at
eeting the Man in danger narrated the manner of his
eliverance, which afforded unto them both, great
atter of refreshment and joy.
In all this Country there are only three Towred Churches,
(i e.)
Churches with Towers on them,
Three towred Churches.
to
t
T
ngwal
on the Mainland, the
Church
of
Burra
on
e Isle of
Burra,
and the
Church
of
Ireland
a Promon
y belonging to the Main, f
om the top of one of
hich Towers you can see another; Built they say, by
ree Sisters, who from their several Towers could
ve advertisement to one another.
The Church of
Tingwal
standeth on a Valley between two Hills lying East and West,
A Holm called the
Law-Ting
and is about the
ddle of the Mainland. It was in this Parish in a
all Holm, within a Lake high to this Church, there the Principal Feud or Judge of the Country;
el to fit and give Judgment, hence the Holm to this
ay is called the
Law-Ting
(from which probably the
arish of
Tingwal
had its name) we go into this Holm
steping stones, where three or four great Stones
e to be seen, upon which the Judge, Clerk and other Officers of the Court did sit: All the Country concerned to be there stood at some distance from the
olm on the side of the Loch, and when any of their
auses was to be Judged or Determined, or the judge
ound it necessary that any Person should compear before him, he was called upon by the Officer, and went in by these steping stones, who when heard, retur
the same way he came: And tho now this place be
the Seat of Judgement, there is yet something am
them to this day, which keepeth up the Memory their old Practice, for at every end of the Loch th
is a House, upon whose Grass the Country Men co
ing to the Court did leave their Horses, and by rea
the Masters of these Houses did suffer a loss this w
they were declared to be Scat-free, hence at this pres
time, two places in the Parish of
Sanfling
do pay S
for the one, and
Coningsburg
in
Dunrossness
for t
other:
Scat
is a kind of Rent or Due, which is Yea payed to the
King
or his
Taxmen;
by the Gentlem
and several others in the Country. This Court thought to have been keeped by the
Danes,
when th
were in the Possession of the Country. They also
port that when any Person received Sentence of Dea
upon the Holm, if afterwards he could make his esca
through the crowd of People standing on the side the Loch, without being apprehended, and touch
Steeple of the Church of
Tingwal,
the Sentence of Dea
was Retrieved and the Condemned obtained an Inde
nity: For this Steeple in these days was held as Asyl for Malefactours, Debitors Charged by their C
ditors &c. to flee into.
An obelisk between
Tingwal
and
Scalloway.
In the way between
Tingwal
and
Scalloway,
there an high Stone standing in form of an Obelisk as so
Ancient Monument, concerning which the People ha
various Traditions, some saying that in the
Strath Tingwal,
where this Stone is erected, there was a Bloo
Fight between the
Danes
and the old Inhabitants Natives of this Country, and that the
Norvegian Danish
General was killed in this place, where t
Stone is set up. Others report that one of the Ea
of
Orkney,
had a profligate and prodigal Son, who
this cause being animadverted upon by his Father, fl
to
Zetland,
and there built a Castle or a strong Ho
for himself within a Loch at
Stroma,
within two Mi
Tingwal
to the West, the ruines whereof are yet be seen: His Father not being satisfied with his
ape, and the way he took for his Defence, sent from
kney
4. or 5. Men to pursue him, to whom he gave
ders that they should bring his Son to him, either
d or alive: The Son thereupon not finding him
safe enough in his Castle, made his escape from
Castle, where the Pursuers lay in Ambush, but was
ertaken by them in the
Strath
of
Tingwal
and killed
re, whereupon this Monument was erected. The
rsuers took off his head, and carried it with them to
Father, but in so doing they were so far from gra
ying of him, that he caused them all to be put to
Death, notwithstanding of the orders given by
There is in the Parish of
Tingwal
a little off the way
we go from
Lerwick
to
Scalloway,
Concerning a Spring.
a Fountain or
ing of very pure and pleasant Water, which run
through a great Stone in the Rock by the passage of
ound hole, which if you stop, the Water forceth its
y through the pores of the Stone in other places,
Stone it seems being very porous and spungy.
One of the Ministers told us of a Monster born the
Year in the Parish of
Neston,
about 9 or 10.
Monsters born.
les from
Lerwick,
That one day when he was com
g to the Presbytry, and standing at the Ferry-side
er which he was to pass, two Women came to him
quainting him with fear and greif, that their Neigh
ur near by, had been Travelling in Child-Birth under
d Labour for 3. days past, and had brought forth Monster, which had upon its Forehead like a Pirwig
Flesh and Hair, raised and towered up, and by
e sides of the head, there were like wires of Flesh
ming down: Moreover it had two raws of Teeth,
th a Mouth like a Rabbet, destitute of Arms and
gs; After the Birth there was some life in it, and
moved a little, but lived not long; the Women
isting at the Birth for a time were affraid to touch it, it being such a strange and formidable sight. T
Minister desired to see it, but it was Buried before came. The same Woman also formerly had brou
forth two Monsters, the first whereof was a con
and undigested
mp of Flesh; and the second ha
Mouth in its Breast.
We enquired concerning the Woman, and they t
us that they knew nothing of Scandal they could la
her Charge, but that she had lived soberly all her li
only one of the Ministers informed us, that after had brought forth the first Mon
ter, he heard that a Years time thereafter, she used to go bare footed the Church of
Wisdale
every Lord's Day, and p
there according to the Vow she had made after Birth, thinking thereby, that this might Atone what was past, and prevent the like for the Future, this be true, God hath judicially punished her, Conceiving and Bringing forth the two follow Monsters, each more wonderful and preternatural t
the other.
God's judgments on Adulterers.
Several Adulteries came before the
Commission
atte
ed with heinous aggravating Circumstances. One
stance we had very remarkable of one
James Mo
in the Parish of
North Mevan
who had been lying Adultery with one
Clara Tutloch,
his Wi
e being d
not many Years since. Between which
Mowa
Tulloch;
there were several Children Procreated,
were all Idiots and Fools, so that they could not k
themselves either from Fire or Water, or put t
meat in their Mouths, tho there be one of them of Years, and others of them tho younger, yet come some considerable Age. Which sheweth the mani
Judgment of God against Adulterers, he often or
ing his Providential Dispensations so towards the
that they may read their Sin in their Punishment, this wretched Man was forced by the power of his so convinced Conscience to confess before the Presbyt
That he was sensible the Judgments of God were p
suing him, whereof he gave the said sad Instance, as
et to be seen from the Presbyteries Records. Another Adulterer also did Compeir before us, who did continue in the Commission of this his Sin for many Years,
nd doth bear in his Face the shameful reproof thereof, and the just marks of the Lords Indignation against him for the same. It is a very sad thing for any to be pining away both in Judgments and Sins.
A Minister here told me a passage not to be passed without a Remark of God's Righteous Judgment and Holiness.
Another instance of God's judgments on Adulterers.
A certain Woman in his Parish about 10 Years since fell into Adultery with an old Married Man, he to cover his Villany, advised her to give way to another young Mans sinning with her, who then was
n suit of her and frequented her Company, that so if there were a Child, she might Father it upon this young and unmarried Man; Accordingly as was advised it fell out, the young Man sinned with her, and she being found with Child, is summoned to compeir before the Session, who having interrogated her concerning her Uncleanness, and who was the Father of the Child, she answered that she never knew or had Carnal Dealing with any, save such a young Man. But this covering could not serve the turn in palliating their Filthiness, God in His Wise Providence so ordering it, that tho there was the Interval of 5 Months between the old and the young Mans sinning with her yet when the time of her delivery came, she first brought forth a perfect Child of 9 Months, and the day after another imperfect of 4 Months, according to the several times of the old Man, and the young Mans sining with her. She being convinced that this was of the Lord, and that she could not hide her sins from God, tho she sought to do it from Men, she ingenuously acknowledged her Guilt with both, and for the Scandal is now giving Satisfaction in the Parish of
Ʋ nst.
Another instance.
We had also the Lamentable Account of the Tragical end of one
Mr. Gilbert Hendry
Adulterer, in repute, for his acuteness of wit and the many excellen
Poems he composed: He being a married Man had carnal converse with another Woman, at which his Friends and Welwishers being greatly concerned, one o
them laid hold of an oppertunity to accost and set upo
him, earnestly intreating he might break off his unclea
and debauched converse with that Woman holding ou
unto him his sin and Misery, and using what Arguments he thought might prevail for that end, but h
gave a deaf ear unto all that was said, and by no mean would be disswaded from haunting her Company, ye
in contempt of the admonition and reproof, made as
he were going to that Womans House the same night and so parting from his freind, went in the evening to Water or Loch side, where he walked for some tim
alone, and then appeared a Man in company with him all in black, and thus they contiuned walking together till Night, as the People observing did Judge, and the next Morning this miserable wretch was found dea
with his brains dashed out (tho there were no stone near to that place where he lay) on a Hill side at a little distance from the Water, his head and shoulders lying dounward to the descent of the Hill, his brains wen
scattered, and the ground about him was all troden, a
if there had been (saith my Informer,) 20 Men and Horses for 24, hours upon the Spot. It is not many Year since this fell out. So bad a recompense doth the Devi
give his Vassals and Slaves for their service, for
Whoremongers and Adulterers God will Judge,
which Judgment often he beginneth to inflict in this life, for the punishment of the guilty, and the terrour of all, and to shew that he is of purer eyes then that he can behold such horrid Iniquity;
Observe on the
Spanish Armado.
tho the pouring out of the full vials of his Wrath he reserveth for the future, where their worm shall not die, nor the fire for ever be quenched.
The signal defeat and overthrow of the
Spanish Armado
that supposed and commonly (tho arrogantly) cal
ed
Invincible Navy
Anno 1588. is famous in History, which was especially caused by stormy Winds and Tem
ests, some thereby sinking at Sea, others spleeting upon
he Coasts both of
England
and
France
and especially upon the
North of Scotland, Orkney
and
Zetland;
and the
Isle
had the honour of the
Duke of Median's
being
iven ashore upon it, under whose conduct this Navy
as, who after his Shipwrack came over to
Dunross
ess
in
Zetland,
as an old Gentlewoman Informed me;
f whom she heard the Countrey People who saw him,
equently speak, when she was a Child; So the Lord
ispersed and broke this huge and formidable Navy
t of an hundred and thirty ships which set out from
ain
with Provision, Ammunition, and other furniture exceeding great, scarce 30. returned; The God of Land
d Sea heard and answered the Prayers of his People
Britain,
the Curse of God pursuing that hellish enter
rise notwithstanding of the Infallible Popish benedict
n on that Invincible Armado; for as our Historian
lderwood
observeth, "The rumour of the great Spanish Armado being blazed abroad,
Cald. Hist. on Anno 1588.
fervent were the Prayers of the Godly in
Scotland,
powerful and peircing were the Sermons of Preachers, especially in the time of Fast, whereupon the Lord uttered his voice
gainst his and his Churches enemies, by terrible things
Righteousness; Our Coasts upon which many of that
leet were cast away, and some of the Persons in it beged from door to door, proclaiming aloud the Glory of
s Justice and Power.
There are no Weasels in all the Northern Isles of
Zet
and,
as I am informed, tho numerous in the Mainland,
No Weasels formerly, but now numerous on the Mainland.
which they report thus came to pass: The Falconer
iving a Power given him, to get a Hen out of every
ouse, once in the Year; but one Year they refusing,
not being so willing to give, The Falconer out of
evenge, brought the next Year two Weasels with
m, which did generate and spread, so that now they are become very destructive to several goods of t
Inhabitants, whereof a Gentleman our Informer, to us he had killed severals half an Ell long.
CHAP. IX. The Fish-Trade is most considerable, in
Z
land.
Observes on their Fishtrade.
OF all the things remarkable in
Zetland,
their
F
Trade
is the most considerable, wherefore I ha
chosen to speak of it by it sel
. Which I shall labo
to do, by shewing what Fishing they have in these Se
and what Fishes they do most abound in, and have ple
ty of; And then hold out who are these who Trade, a
what advantages do accrue thereby unto the
n
a
tants, with some Reflections upon the whole.
The Fishing decayed beside what formerly it hath been.
The Fishing here is much decayed by what it wa
for now neither is there such a great number of Fish taken, nor so easily can they be had as formerly;
not above 40. or 30. Years since, the Fishers wo
have taken the great Fishes, such as Killen, Ling & in the Voes or Lochs, and that in great numbers, a
so were not necessitated to underly such danger a
toil, in going out to the Sea, but could have lien b
fore their oun doors, and drawen the Fishes, whi
certainly was more safe, easy, and convenient to the
in many Respects: Whereas now they are obliged
put out some Leagues unto the Sea, and so far oft
that they almost sink the Land, else they cannot
a
any Fishing, worth their expence and pains, whi
cannot but be very toilsome and dangerous, in case storm should arise and blow off the Land, and so p
them to Sea, with their little Boats or Yoals, not ab
to keep ong out against the violent and swelling wav
and so hath it fallen o
t unto some, who being toss
to and fro, whether tide and Wind did drive the
have never seen Land any more. And as it is dang
s, so it is toilsome and costs them much labour,
ing often they ly some Nights and Days at Sea, and
come ashore.
The Fishing formerly being greater then what now
s, occasioned, they say,
Notwithstanding their Fishing yet is great.
some hundreds of mo Ships
sort Yearly unto this Countrey, then what now
to do when Fishes cannot be had for to serve them,
indeed neither now are the Fishes so sought after,
ometime they have been, when they could be easily
, many being willing rather to stay at home and
ch what they can about the Coasts which ordinarily
but the smaller Fishes, then to undergo such hazards
toil in following the greater, which an
Hamburgh
chant
waiting for a lading complained to me of.
Altho when we institute the Comparison between
former and the latter times,
Fishes taken in great numbers Anno 1700.
their present Fishing
l appear to be but small, yet if we take it und
r
w as it is in it self without such a respect, we will find
o be very considerable: for tho in some Years it be
ater then in others yet every Year many trading
os are thereby laded; and this same Year 1700 the
ing is thought to be very good; an Instance whereof Merchant gave us, that in one Week in the Month
June,
there were taken by some Boats belonging to
place, of
Northmevan
4000, Ling, all which were
ught in for the Loadening of that Ship, wherein he
concerned. And another Gentleman added, that
e other Boats at a little distance from these, drew
ut 700. mo
but this was something exterordinary,
useth not often to fall out, that in one Week they
e such a number.
The Fishes that do most abound here are Killin,
What Fishes abound here.
g &c. which being salted and dried Foreigners export
m to other Countreys; of these, as hath been said,
re is a great plenty, but are not ordinarily taken near
Land; as for Haddocks, Whitings and such lesser
ite Fishes, they care not so much for the seeking af
except what is for their oun use, for strangers use but seldom to buy them: And these greater Fishes th
get a greater quantity of in some places, then in othe
as off
Dunrossness, Northmevan, Ʋ nst, Yell,
&c.
Herring numerous.
Great shoals of Herring do sweem also in these Se
which are taken in the Summer season, especially the Month of
July,
and the beginning of August, sometimes then they will come within a Pennie-st
cast of the shore, and be sweeming so thick, and ta
so fast, that one Boat will call upon another, to co
and help them, and take a part of their Fishes; Th
Herrings taken here are reckoned to be very good
not among the best, that are taken upon the Isles
longing to the
King of Britain's Dominions,
and as n
said of the white Fish, so it is of the Herrings, they f
quent some places more then others, as off
Brassa
to t
East, and between
Brassa
and
Whalsey
or the
Skerr
where the Bushes do commonly ly, within sight of
Land of
Zetland.
And whatever may be said of
Gro
his Mare Commune or Liberum,
yet it holds here, for a
have or take liberty to come and Fish in these se
without any way acknowledging that Soveraig
whereunto these Isles do belong.
So Silluks and Seths out of whose Livers good Oyl is got.
There are likewise here a great many Grey Fis
taken, which they call Silluks and Seths, which
Judged to be the same kind of Fish, only the Seths▪ a greater and older Silluks; a thick and fat Fish, out of one liver of some Seths they will get a pint, our measure, of Oyl, with which Oyl the Inhabita
pay part of their Rents, and sells the rest unto M
chents. The Oyl they get after this Manner. They
the Liver into a Pot or Pan half full of Water, wh
when seething, the Oyl by the force of the fire or being Water, is drawn from the Liver, which so be
separated, and sweeming above, they take or scum
off, and puts in vessels for the use. These Seths are be had about all the Coasts, but more especially ab
Dunrossness, Delton
and some other places. The
luks as hath been observed, are very numerous in O
, but more rarely are the Seths to be had there, tho
e same kind of Fish: but in
Zetland
there is no scarci
of both.
Among the many other excellent Fishes which are
re for to be had, there are the Tusk a rare,
Tusk a rare Fish.
wholsome
d delicious Fish, no less pleasant to the taste, then
ey are to the eye, some of them are as big as Ling,
a broun and yellow colour, with a broad tail, when
aking ready for use they swell in the pan more then
y other Fish, when made ready their Fish is very
hite and clear, when new haled they are much
ore pleasant to eat then when salted and dryed, for
n I think they lose much of their Savour and Re
h; They begin to Fish for them about the end of
May
beginning of
June,
and are taken to the East of the
e of
Brassa,
or between
Brassa
and
Whalsey,
opening to
e Coasts of
Norway,
and here only are they to be
und, and more rarely in other places, except off
Dun
siness,
where also sometimes they are got. The Fi
ers often go out about the beginning of the Week,
d not return, home till the end of it, and the further
ey go off to the Sea, they will get them the bigger,
d in greater numbers. They use to sell them to the
amburghers
for 8. or 10
lib.
Scots the 100. or six
ore, and some of them also are taken to other places,
here they are much desired by such as know them.
Those who commonly frequent this Countrey and
ade with the Inhabitants are
Hamburghers,
This Countrey frequented by
Hamburgers, Bremers,
&c.
and some
mes
Bremers
and others, who come here ordinarily
the Month of
May
or about the beginning of
June,
d in several places set up Booths or Shops, where
ey sell Liquours, as Beer, Brandie &c. and wheat
ead, as that which they call Cringel Bread, and the
ke, they also sell several sorts of Creme-Ware, as Li
n, Muslin &c. And these Merchants seek nothing
tter in Exchange for their Commodities, then to tru
k
ith the Countrey for their Fishes, which when the
shers engage to, the Merchants will give them either Money or Ware which they please, and so
Fishers going to Sea, what they take, they bring o
in the Week or oftener, as they have occasion,
layes them down at their Booth Door, or in any o
place where the Merchant appoints them to be
and they being there numbered, the Merchants acco
for them accordingly; these Fishes which are o
arly great white Fishes as Killen, Ling, and the like, Merchants or their Servants having dried they t
them Aboard of their Ships: Several such
D
Booths are to be seen through the Isles, as 6 ord
arily in the Isle of
Ʋ nst,
two in
Yell
&c.
Hollanders
also repair there unto for Herring-Fishing
The
Hollanders
also repair to these Isles in
J
as hath been said, for their Herring Fishing, but t
cannot be said so properly to Trade with the Count
as to Fish upon their Coasts, and they use to bring sorts of Provisions necessary with them, save s
fresh Victuals, as Sheep, Lambs, Hens, &c. Wh
they buy on shore: Stockins also are brought by
Countrey People from all quarters to
Lerwick
and s
to these Fishers, for sometimes many thousands of the
will be ashore at one time, and ordinary it is wi
them to buy Stokins to themselves, and some likew
do to their Wives and Children; which is very ber
ial to the Inhabitans, for so Money is brought in the Countrey, there is a Vent for the Wooll and t
Poor are Employed, Stokins also are brought fro
Orkney,
and sold there, whereby some gain accrues the Retailers, who wait the coming of the
Dutch
Fle
for a Market.
Much advantage redoundeth to them from their Trade with the
Hamburgers.
But especially much advantage doth redound
them from their Trade with the
Hamburgers,
for b
sides that they are furnished by them with Provision what necessary what convenient, these Merchants brin
a considerable Sum of Money with them, so that
one of their Ministers told me, 7 Ships are ordinar
reckoned to have 3600. Dollars aboard, which the
leave behind them not only for Fishes, but also fo
several other things, which are the product of the Countrey, as Butter, Oyl &c. And if any please not to take their Commodities, they presently give them Money upon the receipt of the Goods. The Proprietors also or Masters of the Ground, upon which these Booths are Built, reap a considerable Gain, for some of them will get to Dollars
per annum
for the use of a House, in the Summer Season to be a Booth; and I think twice or thrice the Sum will Build them.
Upon the whole of this Chap. we may entertain these following Reflections, First.
Some reflections on this Chap.
Hence we may observe, the
P
wer, Wisdom,
and
Goodness of GOD;
His
POWER
in that his Hands have made this great and wide Sea,
Ps.
104.25.
wherein are things creeping innumerable; how many Millions of great and small Fishes are every Year taken, yet the next we expect to be served with as great a number; God giving these Creatures the Sea for their proper Habitation, and providing suitable Provision for them in that Element, where neither Seed-time nor Harvest, yet all these wait upon Him,
Psal.
104.27.
and he giveth them their Meat in due Season. His
WISDOM,
in that wise and beautiful Order to be observed among these Brutal Creatures, the several kinds knowing their coming and their going time, and their loving to frequent one place of the Water more than mother, tho both under the same Climate; Their going forth all of them by Bands, tho they have no King, Overseer or Ruler, these
Squammosae Cobortes,
tho
ot governed by Principles of Reason, yet by their Natural Instinct being reasonably Acted, each to their proper ends for the Maintenance and Preservation of their several kinds, give occasion to reasonable Man to Acknowledge, Admire and Adore, the Infinite Wisdom of his and their Maker. Here also the
GOODNESS of GOD
is to be observed in this, that all these
e given for the Service of Man, that not only our Tables should be Furnished with the Creatures that
reath in the same Element with us, but also with these that live in another, and seeing all these are, as it we Sacrificed for our use,
Rom.
12.1.
should we not
Present our selv
Souls and Bodies living Sacrifices Holy and Acceptable u
God, which is our Reasonable Service.
Seeing that G
hath made Man to have Dominion over the Beasts the Field, the Fowls of the Air, and the Fishes of t
Sea, should we not gratefully shew forth His Prai
and say with all the wise Observers of Providence,
Psal.
8.
Lord, our Lord, how excellent is thy Name in all
Earth?
2. It is the Fishing only which makes this Countr
any way desirable, else it would be very unpleasant li
ing there,
Hec Boeth. Hist.
as
Boeth.
of old did observe,
Quorum o
universae in piscibus sole arefactis, quas quotannis ad eos
cedentes Hollandi, Zelandi ac Germani aliarumque rer
vulgarium permutatione mercantur.
Yea if we abstra
from their Fishing-Trade, in many places there cot
not be any living at all, they not having Fields eith
for Corn-Land or Grazing; but they Trading
Fishes with Foreign Merchants, who Import ma
Goods for the more comfortable living of the Countre
their coming in the Summer is very refreshful to all t
Inhabitants, the thoughts and expectation of which the Winter, doth not a little revive them, when th
shall enjoy some better Fare, than what their Countre
doth afford, when
Hamburgh
-Liquors and Commod
ties shall be brought to their Doors, which being e
pected and desired, may occasion sometimes their ta
ing of a larger Cup, they knowing that the Booths w
not always stand open.
3. It is to be observed, that still the further Nor
we go,
Non omnis fert omniae Tellus.
the Fishes are to be had in greater aboundanc
in
Zetland
more than in
Orkney,
and in
Island
to th
North of
Zetland,
more than in either, the Inhabitan
there mostly living upon Fishes; And again we ma
nottice, as there is not such a plenty of Fishes in
Orkn
as in
Zetland,
yet there is a greater of Corn; and
in
Zetland
there is more Corn, than in
Island,
for i
Island
they have little if any Corn as the product of
heir Countrey, as some in
Zetland
did inform me, who
ave conversed with these that had been there: There
ore the Commonalty generally make use of dried
ishes beaten small in stead of Bread, as
Boeth.
hinteth
t,
Ʋ ltra Schethlandicas aliae quaedam Insulae,
Boeth. Hist
quae pisces
efactos ac sole induratos pistillo contundunt, mox admista quâ in pastillos componunt, atque ad focum torrent, qui illis
nis est.
Which sheweth us the great
Wisdom of God
n His Works of Providence, who bestoweth not all Blessings upon every Nation, but when He denyeth
r giveth less of one Blessing to one Nation or Coun
rey, He alloweth them more of another, which is also often observed with respect to particular Persons. This variety likewise sheweth the necessity and advan
age of one Nation or Kingdoms Trading with another.
4. The Fishing-Trade is very Lucrative and En
iching to these who closely follow it, it is commonly
aid, that it is the Fishing which first raised the
Ne
herlands
to that pitch of Grandure and Wealth, which
ow they have arrived at, hence some Historians call the Fishery,
The Gold-Mine of Holland,
and that by
heir Fishing especially in the
British Seas.
And if it were
ot so very Gainful what would make them every Year Equip such a numerous Fleet of several hundreds, of Bushes, under the Guard and Protection of their Convoyes, but that they know the
Zetland Seas
makes their Mills to go, therefore they do so warmly pursue this Trade, and Encourage the U
dertakers thereof. And so it is with the
Hamburgers
and other Merchants especially in the
Hans Towns,
who Trading here during the Summer Season, return home in
August
or
September,
they not only with Fishes serving their Respective Cities, but by sending them also up the Countrey do make a good Market, which engageth and Encourageth them to return every Year and follow the same Trade.
5. The Consideration of this great Gain that dot
redound to the Trading Merchants, hath of late an
mated some Gentlemen and others in
Zetland,
t
enter into a Society or Company for Trading in Fishes that whereas Strangers make such a good hand wit
their Fishes, they may as well consult their own Profite and Gain, by Promoting of that Trade, whic
tendeth so much to the Enriching of others, especiall
seeing they can do it with far less Trouble and Expence when here at Home, where the Fishes are to b
had, which when taken and prepared may be s
n
Abroad for Sale to Foreign Markets, whereas th
Hamburgers
and others which come here, are obliged to tarry from Home through the Summer, waiting for their Lading.
6. It hath been thought very strange by many that our own Fishing, for which we have so great and so inviting Advantages beyond others, should yet b
so much neglected by our selves, and left to the Improvement of Strangers who reap vast Gain from it▪ And as this deserves the consideration of the Government, so it might be expected that the late disappointment, in the Holy and Wise Providence, of this Na
ions Noble and Generous Attempt to have Settled
Foreign Plantation, for raising us from the Dunghil
of Contempt and Poverty, and Advancing our Wealth and Trade, will excite both these worthy Undertaker
and others to Employ their Stocks and Endeavours i
searching after and digging these Mines of the Ocean nearer Home and Profiting by these Blessings, which Providence has brought to our very Doors, especially since thereby not only would a number of able Seame
be Yearly Trained for the use and service of the Nation, and the Nation thereby put in a better Capacity for Undertaking and Supporting greater Projects o
Trade in the more remote parts of the World, bu
likewise many poor People would be Employed wh
are ready to Starve. And it is more reasonable w
should Fish in our own Seas, than for Strangers so to
; And I do greatly question, if the
Hollanders,
mburgers
or others, would so permit us to Fish in
y Seas so nigh to their Land, depending on their
veraignty, as we do them.
And for this end Shiping would be Encouraged
the Government, and Trading Merchants as the
llanders
do, An Instance whereof we had when in
tland,
a
Holland
Ship came into
Brassa Sound
from
sing about the
Fair Isle,
waiting for the
East India
et,
having in her Wine, Brandy, Victuals &c. for
ir use, that they might be Refreshed, before they
ived at their Port, and this the Trading Company
glect not ordinarily to do, which sheweth they are
at Encouragers of Trade. And for the Encourag
of Trade, Taxations imposed upon Shiping should
easy, especially now when the Trade is so low,
t many Merchants and Ship-Masters, after they
e hazarded their Lives and their All, do return
sers Home; For if otherwise no wonder that all
ncerned in Trade, be Dispirited and Discouraged in
empting any thing that is Noble, which might tend
the Nations Publick Good.
CHAP. X. Concerning
Pightland Firth,
the several
Tides
which meet there, the danger of
Passage &c.
THE noise that
Pightland Firth
makes among many who only have heard thereof as being noted and
nous for its Danger to Passengers,
Concerning
Pightland
Firth.
and the Causes
ich concur to render it so, awakened us more par
ularly to enquire concerning it, which we had op
rtunity to do, in our Return from
Zetland
by
Orkney
to
Caithness.
And therefore seeing we passed it in Voyage, I shall not altogether pass it in this Narrati
but communicate to the Inquisitive, what I kn
either from my own or others observation anent i
Why so called.
This Firth is commonly called
Pictland, Pightland Penthland Firth,
doubtless from the
Picts
whose Ki
dom of old
Orkney
was, divided by this Firth fr
the Continent of
Scotland: Blaw in his Atlas
or
graphy
tells us of a certain Tradition, shewing how came first to be so Denominated, That the
Picts
o
time being Defeat by the
Scots,
who pursued Victory unto
Caithness
and
Dungisby Head,
where Vanquished Remnant so hotly Pursued not judg
themselves safe, were forced to take Boats and go o
the Firth to
Orkney,
but the
Orkney
Men conveen
upon the Alarm of their Landing, did so warmly
ceive them with a sharp Conflict, that the
Picts
w
obliged to Retire, and take themselves to their B
again, with which they going off, and not acquain
with the running of the Tides, they all Perish
upon which sad Catastrophe so Fatal to the
Pictish
tion, this Firth ever since was called
Pictland
or
Pi
land Firth. Buchanan
calls it
Penthland Firth,
as it
commonly pronounced from one
PENTHƲ S,
who this
Penthus
was, our Historian hath not b
pleased to impart unto us,
Buch. Hist. l.
2.
Nam Penthlandici montes fretum Penthlandicum a Pentho non a Picto composita vt possunt.
Some Historians relate, That the
Picts
com
first out of
Germany
into
Orkney,
which they Inhabi
for a Season, thence they passed over to
Caithness
other parts of the North of
Scotland,
so that he
this Firth is called
Pictland Firth.
The Firth is commonly said to be 12 Miles bro
and I think they are but short,
Its breadth and what Coasts it washeth.
but this may be
bundantly compensed by the danger of the passag
it is bounded on the North by the Isles of
Orkney,
on the South by
Dungisby-head
in
Caithness,
to West is the
Deucaledonian Ocean,
whence the Fl
comes; and to the East is the
German Ocean,
whence
Ebb runneth. The landing places are
Burwick,
Southermost point of
South-R
nal
sha
in
Orkney,
d
Dungisby-head
the northernmost in
Caithness,
John Grot
House.
called
o John Grotts House,
the Northermost House in
tland,
the Man who now liveth in it and keepeth
nn there is called
John Grot,
who saith this House
h been in the possession of his Predecessours of that
e for some Hundreds of Years, which na
e of
is frequent in
Caithness,
Upon the Sand by
John
ots House
are found many small pleasant Buckies and
lls, beautified with diverse Colours, which some
to put upon a string as Beeds, and account much for their rarity. It is also observed of these shells,
Varietates delectat.
t not one can be found altogether like another; And
on the review of the parcel I had, I discerned some
ference among them; which variety renders them
more beautiful.
In the Firth are the sles of
Swinna, Stroma
and
Pightland-
rries.
The Isles of Swinna, Pightland Skerries and Stroma in the Firth.
From
Burwick
to the West-North-West lyes
inna,
one of the Isles of
Orkney,
a little sle where
are some Inhabitants, who have a good Fishing a
ut the Isle, but often with great danger, not only cause it is in
Pightland-Firth,
where many Tides do
▪ but because of some dangerous Wells or Whirle
ols which are nigh unto it From
Burwick
about 5
6 Miles to South-East lyes
Pightland Skerries,
danger
to Seamen, these
Skerries
being in the mouth of
the Firth to the East, upon which both in Ebb and
od there goes a great Sea: therein is some good
a
re, but not Inhabited, save sometimes in the Sum
er season. In the Firth also is the Isle of
Stroma,
little pleasant Isle, abounding with Corns, about a Mile
d an half long, and half a Mile broad, and tho it be in
Firth, yet it is not reckoned as one of the Isles of
Orkney,
because of its vicinity to
Caithness,
from which is but about 2 Miles dis
ant, and this is the only Isle which belongs unto
Caithness,
and is still under
Jurisdiction of the Lords of that Countrey.
Besides the Isles some Skerries.
Besides the Isles there are also some
Skerries,
as
fore
Burwick
not half a Mile from Land there is o
seen at an Ebb, upon which about 3 Years ago w
cast away a Ship belonging to
Aberdeen,
and all
Men in her, as they say, were lost
Many Tides go here.
Altho the Sea in this Firth floweth and ebbe twice in the 24 Hours, as it doth in other places,
there is a meeting of many Tides here, which runni
contrary one to another, cause that great rage and a
were a conflict of Waters, which is terrible to beho
and dangerous to engage with: What is the numb
of these Tides cannot well be con
escended upo
some say 13; others 18; and others 24.
Blaw in
Geography
hinteth at this, and the reason thereof, she
ing that the Sea running among the
Orkney
Isles,
thereby restrained, and made to go through the
as so many Water-spouts, which meeting in this Fi
render it so formidable and dangerous. But beca
of the pertinency and elegancy of the Historian, up
this head,
Geogra. Elavi. de Freto Pent
landiae.
I shall give his own Words:
Fret
hoc Navigantibus formidabile, neque nisi sta
temporibus, quanquam positis ventis, trajectui o
portunum. Causa est cum aestus maris quotidie a se
tentrionibus incitetur in his locis Orchadas circu
fusus iisque imerfusus, hic primum objectu terrar
coercetur, unde vis illa immensa aquarum multis
nalibus insulas illas permeans, dein reliquo mari
hoc Freto effusa, luctantibus etiam maris Vergivii
Orientalis undis formidabiles aquarum Vortices cu
summo navium periculo creat.
And indeed wh
we see the many impetuous Tides coming out into t
Firth, from among the Isles of
Orkney,
each beari
that course to which they are determined, by the La
and Isles they wash and beat upon, we will not judge
strange, that there should be such a meeting of Tides
this Firth; for, as some express it,
Every craig-lug
makes a new Tide,
and many Craigs and Lugs are there here.
Hence it is clear that the Tide will run with a greater rapidity and force in some places then in others,
The Tide stronger in some places then in others.
as when we pass that part of the Firth, where we meet with the Tide in the Ebb running off the sides of
Pightland Skerries
from South East, down into the
Swelchie of Stroma,
then the men most
ly their Oars and work hard, lest they be born down into the
Swelchie,
a dangerous place. When also we are 3 or 4 Miles from
Cathnes
;
there is another such rapid current, comeing from the South of
Dung-isbay
Head out of
Murray Firth
running upon
Stroma,
both into the
Swelchie
on the North, and into the
Merrie-men of Mey
on the South end of the Isle. In our passage through this Current, for half an hour, we made not, as we could observe, one foot of Way, tho there were 4 Men tugging at the Oars, and no wind blowing; and in all probability we had been carried down upon
Stroma,
if an able man a Passenger: had not taken ane Oar, so that then there were 3 Oars upon our Star-board side. Hence in some places there is a swift and in others a soft running Tide, which the Boat-men being well acquainted with, they will sometimes rest from their hard Labour and refresh themselves a little.
In our passage we see the Currents,
We see the currents of the Tides.
before we engage with them, running like the Torrents of some great Rivers, and in some places we will see the Waters smooth, and rough round about; the Reason whereof I know not, if it be not because of some Tides meeting there, and as it were for some time quiescent in their Centre, something like unto which I have observed in the meeting of several Rivers in one place.
In the Firth are several places remarkable for their danger; As the
Wells of Swinna,
The
Wells
of
Swinna
dangerous
whereof some are on the East-side and others on the West-side of the Isle, they are like unto Whirle-Pooles turning about with such a violence, that if any Boat come nigh unto them, they will suck or draw it in,
The Wells of Swinna are
Trocht adiustar à puero s
age
agitat
Geogra. Blaevi.
and then turneth it abou
until it be swallowed up: but these Wells are onl
dangerous in a Calm, and Sea-men or Fishers to pr
vent their danger thereby, use when they come nea
them to cast in an Oar, Barrel or such like thing, o
which the Wells closing, they safely pass over. Th
Minister of the place told me, that about 20 years agoe there were two Fisher-boats there, who coming nig
the Wells, the Men in the one Boat seing their danger, one of these men thus afraid took hold of th
other Boat by them, and both Boats were swallowed up. One of the Ministers of
Zetland
told me, ther
were three of these Boats, it so falling out, that h
passed the Firth the very day after they perished: Ye
notwithstanding of these dangers, the Fishers will no desist from fishing about these Wells, for they observ
the nearer they come to them, they have the Fishe
both greater, better and more numerous, so the Fishes draw the Men, and the Wells draw both.
Near to these Skerries, before
Barwick
formerly mentioned, are also 2 or 3 Wells, called the
Wells o
Tiftala,
And of
Tiftala
only dangerous in a Flood as the
Wells of Swinna
are in an Ebb, these Wells, as some do judge ar
caused by an Hiatus or Ga
in the Earth below: Further I would offer this consideration, that whereas all these Wells are nigh unto ragged Rocks, constantly beat upon by the Tides, there may be some secre
conveyances of the Water into Cavernes at the bottom of the Rock, from which they may pass into some other places, where they rise again, and that even in the same Firth, tho such places be unknown, as it is storied of many Rivers,
How they come to whirle and be so dangerous.
which fall into, and run many Miles below the Earth and come out again in other places. But that which I judge to be more simple, is that several Tides running upon the Rocks, and thence returning and meeting with other Tides cause such a Whirle, as we see behind Mill-wheels some of the water coming from, and another part as it were appearing to return upon the Wheel, which cause such a Whirle, and no more doth the whirles in the Firth re
uire a Hiatus in the Earth or a subterraneous passage,
h
n the whirles in the Mills water courses: As for
heir swallowing up of Boats which are no more seen, this doth not prove it, for these Boats may be broken beneath the water upon Rocks or the like, and the broken timber go to the Sea, of which there is enough
ound cast a shoar upon these Isles. But many things of
his nature are hidden to us, and we can only give our Conjectures anent them.
There is also in this Firth the
Swelchie of Stroma,
a very dangerous place at the North end of the Isle of
Stroma,
Swelchie
of
Sroma.
where there is a meeting of several Tides which causeth the Water to rage and make a dreadful noise, heard at some distance; As likewise the Sea-billows are
raised high, and appear white and frothy very terrible to behold, especially if any storm be lying on, falling unto which all Passengers carefully labour to avoid; As a Gentleman related to me, that once he was in great danger, the Seamen giving themselves over for lost, tho three Miles from the
Swelchie,
and that in a dead calm, when within 2 or 3 pair of Butts to
Stroma,
and tho so near Land, they had been carried down into and perished by this
Swelchie,
as they all laid their accounts; if the Lord had not speedily caused a Northern wind to blow, whereby they got hold of
Stroma.
There is another dangerous place at the South end of this Isle of
Stroma,
Merry men of Mey.
where also a great conflict of Waters, called the
Merry men of Mey,
so called from the house of
Mey
a Gentleman's dwelling in
Caithness,
opposite to this Isle, and called
Merry men
because of the leaping and danceing as it were, of the waters there, tho Mirth and Danceing be far from the minds of the Seamen and Passengers who shall be so unhappy as to fall in among them, especially when any Sea is going.
Seing from what hath been said this Firth is sovery dangerous to pass, no wonder that the Mariners and others be very careful to lay hold on the fittest occasio
for a safe Passage,
Seamen observe the Tide in going over.
which they find to be a little befo
the turning of the Tide, when it is beginning to E
on the Shoare, but the Flood is yet running in the Se
then they use to go off, that so when they are or nigh unto the middle of the Firth, the Tide ma
be upon the turn, which causeth for some time, a st
and quiet Sea, (as to the running of the Tides) a
the Seamen are not so put to it, in wrestling eith
against Flood or Ebb.
Buchanan
speaking of the Seas, and the rapid Tides, elegantly expresseth himself,
Duae sunt Tempestates quibus hae angustiae sunt supera
les, aut cum aestuum relapsu cessante undarum conflictu, ma
tranquillatur, aut ub
pleno alveo aequot ad summum incr
menti pervenit, languescente utrinque vi illa, quae undas co
citabat, veluti receptui, canente Oceano procellis & vo
cesis pelagi commoti molibus se velut in sua Castra recipie
tibus.
What wind most avourable
Any Wind, they observe, will take them over fro
Burwick
to
Caithness,
if tided Right, and the Win
not in S. West, or nigh to that point, and so fro
Caithness
to
Burwick,
if not in N. East or nigh to it. B
the N. West Wind they call the
King of the Firth,
n
only I judge because it will both take them from
Caithness
to
Orkney,
and from
Orkney
to
Caithness,
but all because if it blow any thing, it keepeth them up in a Ebb, from falling into the
Wells of Swinna,
the
Swelchie of Stroma,
and the
Merry Men of Mey.
By Tidin
right also they can come over by the help of Oars, th
there be no Wind: And at any time tho they observ
not the Tide, they can pass from
Orkney
to
Caithness
if it blow a good Gale from N. East, and so fro
Caithness
to
Orkney,
if the like blow from S. Wes
The Boatmen who use to pass the Firth, from their experience know it best, and can avoid the swell of Sea, when persons of greater skill cannot do it.
No Anchoring.
At no time is there any Anchoring in this Firth, so if any through Ignorance or otherwise attempt it, with
a little time, they must either cut their Cables, as
me have done, and be gone, or else if their Anchors
Cables break not, they will be Ridden under:
he Experience whereof one of our S
ips lately had,
h
casting Anchor even in the Mouth of the Firth,
ere the Tides are not so strong, their Anchor with
a little time brake, and they behoved to go to
a.
In a storm especially if it blow from S, East. (which,
The Firth terrible in a storm.
ey lay, in the Firth causeth the greatest Sea,) and the
ide be running in the Winds Eye, the Roaring and
welling Waves are very Terrible, and mount so
gh, that they could wash not only the Deck, but
e Sails and Topmasts of the biggest Ships.
The House of
Mey
formerly mentioned is a Myth,
gn or Mark much observed by Saillers in their pas
ng through this Firth between
Caithness
and
Stroma,
The house of
Mey
a myth to Seamen.
r they carefully fix their Eyes upon the Lums or
himney Heads of this House, which if they lose sight
, then they are too near
Caithness,
and so ready to run
on Sand-Banks, but if they get also sight of the
oule, then they are too near
Stroma,
and so may
lect upon the Rocks, which ly off the South end of
roma.
Hence we see,
They who go down to the Sea in ships,
Observe.
d do business in the great waters, these s
the works of the
d, and his Wonders in the Depths;
That He is a
God
or
us in Holiness, Fearful in Praises, Doing Wonders;
e causeth the Wind to blow, and the Sea to flow, at his
easure; Bounding the impetuous Tides with the Rocks and
nd, saying, Hitherto shall ye come, and no further; and
e shall your proud Waves be stayed, which the they roar
t shall they not prevail.
His Goodness, and Power,
rting a Restraint upon them; His Wisdom, and
ounsel, directing their turning and returning, for his
wn Glorious Ends. Glory, to His Name.
CHAP. XI. Concerning
Caithness,
and what we found be most Remarkable there.
MY Discourse upon
Orkney
and
Zetland
being e
tended, beyond what either was intended expected.
Concerning
Caithness.
I shall therefore study to be the brie
upon
Caithness,
as likewise seeing it is supposable, th
it may be better known then any of the former, being upon the same Continent with us. What th
is to be said thereupon, I shall dispatch and sum up
this one Chapter.
Caithness
is the Northernmost Province or Shire
Scotland,
Its Situation.
having
Pightland Firth,
whereby it is divid
from
Orkney
on the North, the Entry to
Murray Fir
on the East,
Sutherland
and
Stranaver
on the South, at the
Deucatedonian Ocean
on the West. It is from th
high Hill called the
Ord of Caithness,
toward the South whereby it is divided from
Sutherland,
to
Dungish Head,
about 30 Miles long, and from
Thurso
on th
West side to
Wick
on the East side of the Countrey
Miles broad.
As we were much in the dark about the Etymol
gy of
Orkney
and
Zetland,
The reason of the Name.
so no less are we here i
that of
Caithness,
upon which
Blaw in his Geograph
giveth us this Notandum, "That many Names
"places are something strange, whose Original seem t
be neither
Scotish, Irish, Danish
or
Norvegian,
But u
"known uncertain, and most Ancient: Such as
O
bister, Loyibster, Robaster, Trumbuster,
and Innumerabl
others,
Blavi. Geogra in Caith.
Caterum Not, Multa locorum Nomina peregrinu
quid sapere, quorum origo neque Scoticum, Hibernicum Danicum aut Norvegicum quid referant, sed ignotae, incert
& vetustissimae originis videntur Qualia sunt
Orbiste
Lovibster, Roboster, Trumbuster,
& innumera ali
And seeing such Examples of Names which are of a
unknown Original, as are given by the Historian, d
end in
ster,
I would add that the most of the Names
places in this Countrey do end in
ster,
or
star,
and
go.
between 20 and 30 in
ster
or
star,
and about 20 in
as my Informer, who had been for some time in
e Countrey did reckon them. Of old
Sutherland,
th the same Geographer, was called
Cattey,
and its
habitants
Catteigh,
and so likewise was
Caithness
and
anaver;
And in the Irish
Sutherland
to this day is
lled
Catey,
and its Inhabitants
Catigh;
So that
Cattey
ss,
is no other then the Promontory or Cape of the
tes
or
Sutherland,
which Promontory is stretched
t from the East (or rather the North) side, saith
t Geographer of the Mountain of the
Ord,
Blavi. Geogra.
Adeo ut
tey-ness nihil aliud, sit quam Promontorium Cattae seu
therlandiae, quod Promontorium a latere Ortentali montis
di praetenditur.
These
Cattaei
are thought to be a Peo
e who arrived thither from
Germany.
Who would
ve more of this may consult the abovementioned
uthor.
Buchanan
will have it to be called
Caithness
ecause of its being Mountainous, but I know not if
s Reason will hold, for the Countries adjacent of
herland
and
Stranaver
are more Mountainous, and
ere are few high Hills or Mountains in it, except
t the South end thereof, where it borders with
Suther
nd,
but if it should be so called because it is the Ness
r Promontory of the Mountains, the Land by North
ese Mountains falling lower and running out in a
romontory into the Sea, I Judge it would hold bet
er, and be said with greater reason.
Boethius
also saith
at this Countrey of old was called
Cornana,
but the
eason thereof he giveth not.
The Earls of
Caithness
were among the Ancientest
Scotland,
The Earl of
Caithness.
and in former times have been very potent in
his Corner, as appears by the several old Castles and
laces of Strength, which then they were in Possession
f, but now their Memory is almost extinct. The
te Earl
George
dying without Issue, the Laird of
Glen
chy,
now Earl of
Braid-Atbin
Married the Dowager, who having Purchast the Earl's Estate, the
parent Heir judging himself thereb
injured,
gather together some of the Countrey People recover his Right, but was Defeat by
G
n
c
From the Feild they went to the Bar, and Debated
Matter there, whereupon the Lords gave forth t
Sentence, that
Glenorchy
should enjoy the Estate,
the Heir should have the Honours, and an Alim
allowed him by
Glenorchy
during his Life. The H
having died about a Year ago, the Heiress his Sis
Succeeds to the Honours, and is in a very mean Con
tion; living in a place where the former Earls used keep their H
ucks. So to this Ancient and Hono
able Family of the Earls of
Caithness
there is almo
put in Holy Providence a Period and Close: Th
who had four great Houses in this Countrey like P
laces, for Pleasure and Convenience, and Castles f
Strength, now in their Heirs enjoy none of them, th
are Ruinous, and one is Possessed by a Stranger:
likewise there are several other Ruinous Houses to
seen here, who have spewed out their Possessours,
confirming that common Observation,
That s
committed by the Inhabitants, is as Gun-Powder lai
to the Foundations of their Houses, which quickl
overturneth them, when it pleaseth a Righteous Go
to fire the Train.
The late Earls of the Name of
Sinclar.
The late Earls of
Caithness
were of the Name o
Sinclar,
of which Name also are many Gentlemen o
the Countrey, who have bought considerable parts o
the Earl's Estate, from the Earl of
Braid-Albin:
Before the
Sinclars,
the Earls were of the Name o
Shine,
and befor them were the
Haralds,
and before the
Haralds
were the
Ola's,
as the Tradition goeth
concerning which and the manner of their Successio
and the Interruption made therein, the Countrey talk several things which I shall not trouble my Reade
with: Only I shall observe what is related by
Cambden
a Judicious Antiquary,
That of old the Earls of
Caithness
were the same with the Earls of
Orkney
but at length were divided, the Eldest Daughter of one
Mulisius
being given in Marriage to
William de
S.
Claro vulgo Seincler
the Kings Pautler, his Posterity had this Honour conferred on them, of being Earls of
Caithness.
The Country is pleasant and very Fertile,
The Countrey abounds with Grass Corn,
attel, Fishes so that here the cheapest Market it the World
abounding with Grass and Corn, hence Yearly there is a great quantity of Victual Exported, as An. 169
. there were 16000 Bolls Embarked and taken out, for which end it is much frequented by Barks from the Firth, Clyde and other places; for ordinarly when there is no scarcity or dearth, the Meal is sold here at 3 or 4 or at most 5 Merks per Boll. The Cattel and Fishes also are to be had very cheap, as good Kine often in the Shambles such as the Countrey doth afford, for 3 or 4 shal.
sterl.
and sometimes they say, for 2; so that, as I have heard, some of the more intelligent Inhabitants observe that here is the cheapest Market in the World: And the Gentlemen can live better upon 1000 Merks,
Gentlemen live well.
then they can do in the South upon 4000.
per annum.
Who may Improve their Stocks to as great if not a greater Advantage, than in any other place in
Scotland,
for they may save their Rents, having within themselves what Provision is necessary for their Table, and may sell much Store every Year, what to the Inhabitants in the Countrey for their own use, or for salting and sending Abroad, and what to Drovers who take them South: And it is observable that if any Buy a piece of Land, only what is Arable is Accounted for, as for what serveth for Pasture, they use not to take nottice of, tho upon that consideration they may value their Acres at a greater Rate. In the way between
Thurso
and
Dunnot,
we saw much low Ground overblown with sand, for two Miles back from the Sea, which formerly not many Years since was a pleasant Meadow.
Ten Parishes
here.
There are 10. Parishes in this Countrey, 5. of which can be served with Ministers not having the Irish Language, few of the People there speaking it, but th
other five cannot be supplied otherwise then by Ministers understanding Irish; in some of these Parishe
there being very few who have any knowledge of ou
Language,
Many speak
Irish.
and some of the Ministers are obliged t
preach both in English and Irish for the Edification of all: some of the Parishes are very wide and populous which tends to the Increase of Ignorance among many, the Ministers not being able to overtake thei
Work; some Churches also are ruinous, for when He
ritours are not freinds to the Work of God, or cannot agree among themselves, as to the concerting of suitable Measures, for putting or keeping things which concern the Parish, in order; it useth to go ill with Ministers as to their external Accomodation and with Churches as to their Repair.
The principal Towns.
The two principal Towns in the Countrey are
Wick
and
Thurso, Wick
is a Royal Burgh, on the East-side of the Countrey washen by the
German Ocean
at the Mouth of
Murray Firth,
by the side of which runneth a small River, at the mouth of the River there is a Harbour for Boats or Barks to ly in, which they come into at full Sea, but this Harbour is not so much frequented, as another about a Mile to the North-East of
Wick
where they Judge the Boats do ly safer. Opposite to
Wick
lyes Thurso at 12. Miles distance, on the West-side of the Countrey, which tho it enjoy not the priviledge of a Royal Burgh, yet it is more populous then
Wick,
and hath better buildings in it, by the East-side of the Town runneth a small River called the
Water of Thurso:
In the Water of Thurso many good Salmond taken and how.
They have the best Church in the Countrey well furnished and kept in good order.
In the Water of
Thurso
there is good Salmond-Fishing, which they take two ways, one is by Crues or Creels with crossed or barred doors going from the one side of the Water to the other, so framed that they suffer the Fishes to go in, but not to go out, out of which sometimes they will take several Horses burdens of Fish. The other way they take them is by a Net; where with they Fish a Pool, which lyeth a little below the Crues, and is about a pair of buts in length: They having spread the net upon the bank, which is long enough to reach the breadth of the Water, they go in with it, and one Man on each side drawing it down the Pool, it is followed with 18. or 20. Men. going in a breast behind it, with long staves or Poles in their hands; wherewith they keep the net to the ground, and loose it when any way entangled; the Pool in some places will rise to the height of the breasts of the waders, but there is no danger. So they bring down the Net softly and warily to the mouth of an Enclosure, which they call a
Stem,
into which the Fishes are driven, where the Fishers standing with this larger Net, others take a lesser Net and going therewith into the
Stem,
catch the Fishes so enclosed, that scarce one can escape, for up the Water they cannot run, because of the larger Net, and neither down can they go, because of the Stem, or Stones laid together in form of a Wall, We saw as we could conjecture at one draught upwards of 300. good Salmonds taken, and these who have this Fishing told us that 3 Years ago, they took 500. at a draught, and going through the Pool at the same time with the Net again, they catched other 200, which Salmond for the most part they salt in barrels and sends abroad. It is also to be observed that the Salmond keep this Water of
Thurso
all the Year over, and in the Winter Season in Frost and Snow if you break the ice, they are to be had. The Pool is but about half a Mile up the Water from
Thurso.
There are several Waters or Rivers in the Countrey as
Thurso, Wick, Dumbeth, Rice, Force,
Several Waters here.
and
Beradel,
but they are all small, and indeed there is no great River all the way from
Caïthness
till we come to
Ness
running by
Inverness
in
Murray,
over which is a strong Bridge lately built consisting of 7. Arches, which Rive
is remarkable for this that it never freezeth, tho th
frost be most vehement yea if then vow bring a Horse unto the River,
The River of Ness.
the iceacles will melt at his feet in th
space of time that he is drinking, the River cometh from a Loch called
Lochness,
which also hath the same property, 4. or 5. Miles to the West of
Inverness,
Thi
River I make mention of tho not it
Caithness,
it being the first considerable one, having any thing of a strong and regular Bridge, which we passed in our return.
Some Trees.
There are some Trees here, but they are not so big as these which are further South, even in
Sutherland▪
particularly upon the Water of
Beradel
there is a pleasant strath full of small wood. And there is a Garden 3. or 4. Miles to the South-West of
Thurso
very pleasant and well furnished with fruit Trees, much commended by the Inhabitants.
Rocks much frequented by Fowls.
The Rocks by the Coasts are much frequented by Fowls of various kinds, as Eagles, Hawks &c. such as in
Orkney
and
Zetland,
of which Rocks there are long tracts for whereas in
Sutherland, Ros
,
and
Murray,
the Sea for the most part is bound
d with the sand, here it is bounded with the Rocks, which it washeth and beateth on, and that almost round
Caithness
from the
Ord
to
Dungisbey Head
on the East, and so by
Dunnot Head,
and
Hoburn Head
to
Stranaver
on the West, except a few Creeks or Bays, several of which are very convenient for Anchoring; especially in
Screbister Bay,
a little to the North West of
Thurso,
there is good Anchoring ground where Ships may safely ride without the fear of hazard by Wind or Tide, the Capes of Land there making a still Sea, and defending the Ships, which as it were, flee into their Arms from raging and angry
Pightland Firth:
There are here also some Rocks, lying a little off the Land, from which they are broken and disjoyned which they call
Clets.
the same with the
Holms
in
Orkney
and
Zetland,
these Clets are almost covered with Sea-Fowls. One way they take these Fowls is pleasant tho with great danger, They take a Line,
One way they take the Fowls▪
on the end of which they fasten some Fish-Hooks,
ove the hooks there is also a Pock fastened, and so from
e top of the Rock they let down the Line thus fur
shed with Pock and hooks, striking the heads of the
oung Fowls in their Nests with the Pock, upon which
e Fowls do all gape and cry; as if it were their Dame
oming with meat to them, and so lifting the Line they
t the hooks fall into their mouths, which taking hold the Fowls, they become their prey.
There are likewise several Caves going from the
a within the Rocks,
Caves.
in which the waves make a
eadful noise, such Caves we had occasion to take no
e of in our discourse upon
Orkney
and
Zetland.
Especially there is a kind of Fowls called
Snowflects
which resort to this Countrey in great numbers in
Fe
nary;
they are about the bigness of a Sparrow,
Fowls called Snowflects.
but ex
eding fat and delicious; they flee in flocks, thousands
them together, many of which the Inhabitants do
ll and make use of. They use to go away in
April
d are thought to come from the West
Highlands.
hey have also a great plenty of Moorfowls, Plovers,
much if not more then in any place of
Scotland.
The industry of the Gentlemen here is to be much
ommended for altho from
Wick
to
Dumbeth
which is
Miles long, there be no Harbour or Bay,
The Gentlement's Industry commendable.
but a con
nued tract of ragged, hard and Iron-like Rocks wash
by the Sea, yet there are several Harbours forced
here by Art, tho denied by Nature, and passages in many places like steps of stairs made from the top of the
ock to the bottom, where their Fish-Boats do ly, and
y these passages do bring their Fishes up to the top of
e Rocks, where they salt and dry them in Houses
ade for the purpose, whereby great gain doth redound
the Owners, some making as much by their Fishes,
they do by their Land-Rent.
As in
Orkney
and
Zetland
there were several old
happels, which the superstitious Zealots did frequent,
Superstitions.
so is it likewise in
Caithness,
the Ministers told me the is one in
Dunnot Parish,
beside which there are abo
60. Heaps of Stones, which the People coming to, ta
with them a Stone and throw it into the Heap, bo
ing themselves also thereunto. Nigh to it likewise there is a Loch called
St. John's Loch,
concerning which there goes a fabulous Tradition, that on
St. Stephen Day
there was a pleasant Meadow in that place, whe
now the Loch is, and on
St. John's Day
therafter, was turned into this Loch. There is also another i
the Parish of
Rhae,
to which some do take their Children if they be in distress, and make 2 Graves at th
side of one another laying the Child between them and so they trie if the Child will recover, but the wa
how they know;
Tales superstitiones ludicras recitate est refutare.
I forbear to mention. But they sa
there is a Chappel in the Parish of
Konnesbie
the Northermost Parish of all this Countrey, opposite to
Orkney,
which is yet more frequented then any of the former, which some wildly superstitious frequent on som
Day about Candlemass, going about it on their bar
knees, and thence going to a Water, they cast some
it in handfuls over their heads, and from the Water t
an Alehouse, where they use to fill themselves drunk▪ And when going to these or at them they can scarce even tho threatened be prevailed with to speak. T
which hellish Rites some are so addicted that the Ministers judge it next to impossible, to get them weane
and brought there from: But the vigilancy and pains o
Ministers especially of late, hath through the Blessing o
God not been altogether without success. Which ol
Chappels both here and in
Orkney
and
Zetland,
I think the Government should cause to be rased, which might prove as the taking away of the Nest Egg.
The House of
Thurso by East.
The
Earls of Caithness,
as hinted at before, had several strong and convenient dwellings. One about a short
half Mile from
Thurso,
called
Thurso by East,
now ruinous, it hath been built in the form of a Court, and the Gates have been decored with cut stone Work, and the Gardens, Avenues and office Houses have been
nform to the splendour of the House. An honest Countrey Man observing the many great sins that had been committed about that House, is said to have pre
cted to one of the late Earls its ruine and desolation, saying, "That the Cup of sin was filling, and this House would shortly become a den of Dragons
(using the Scripture phrase)
and seeing there are no such Creatures among us, it shall be of Foxes: And according
it was observed that a Fox haunted it when ruinous few Years after, which stayed there till about 9. or 10 Years ago, when a part of the House was repaired. This I had from one of the Ministers of the Countrey; and another Minister told me that before he bore this character, he frequently shot Rabbets there, within the Walls of the House.
There are also other four Castles upon one Bay;
Castle Sinclar and Girnego.
on
e East side of the Countrey nigh to
Wick,
which belonged to these Earls. The Bay is called
Rice-Bay,
and
2 or 3 Miles broad, the entry whereof is to the East,
t dangerous for Ships to come into, because of the many blind Rocks that ly therein, upon the South side of the Bay next to Wick have been 2 strong Castles,
ined to one another by a Draw-Bridge, called
Castle
inclar
and
Girnego,
the former hath been the strongest House, but the latter they ordinarly had their dwelling in; their situation is upon a Rock disjoined from the Land,
vironed for the most part with the Sea, to which Castles from the Land they passed also by a Bridge which was drawn up every night, whence there was no access to them. I found the year of God upon the Lintel of a window in
Castle-Sinclar
to be 1607; which hath been
e year wherein this Castle was built, or at least repaired. Some account these two Castles to be but one, because of their vicinity. They say, there was much
committed here, as Drunkenness, Uncleanness,
&c.
or which, a Righteous God hath turned them, into a
ainous heap. Opposite to
Castle Sinclar,
and
Girnego,
on the other side of the Bay is
Kice
another Castle,
Castles of
Kice Beradel. and Hakergil.
also ruinous. On the West side of the Bay is the Ca
of
Hakergil,
a strong house at present possessed by Gentleman, who hath a great interest in the Counti
but is not descended of the Family of
Caithness.
Th
are also the ruines of the old Castle of
Beradel
to be se
situated on a Rock near to the Sea, at the Mouth of River of that name, to which also they have pass from the Land by a Draw-bridge: Such naturally stro
▪ Situations for their Houses they sought out of old, t
they might be the more secure, and safe from all v
lence, Nature as well as Art contributing to their fortification.
A Bishop Murdered of old.
About a short half Mile to the West of
Thuiso
a
the ruines of an old Castle, where the Bishop in the times of Popery is said to have had his Residence, particularly there was one
Adam
said to b
the last Bishop who lived in that house, who having greatly oppre
ed the People by his rigorous exacting of the Tith
the People complained thereof to the Earl, who said in passion to have Answered them,
Go and see
him, and Sup him too if you please,
Whereupon they we
to the Bishops Lodging, and apprehended him, a
setting his house on Fire, they actually boiled hi
and supped off the Broth: Which being known,
quiry was made for the barbarous Actours of this Tragedy; and they being apprehended were put to death so suffering condign punishment for this horrid Villany. And this Earl is not the only great Person who hath given forth an inconsiderate sentence, upon which barbarous and inhumane Actions have ensued.
Buchanan
writeth this to have been about the year 122
in the days of
Alexand.
2d.
King of Scots;
and saith only
That they having killed the Monk who attended his and his Servant,
Buchan. Hist. in vitam Alex.
2.
they wounded himself, and drawing him to the Kitchin, they set the house on Fire about him.
A little to the West of this, is the house of
Screbister
the residence of the late Bishops where I think their Lordships had but a mean accomodation; The Revenues of the Bishoprick here are among the smallest in
Scotland,
The Revenues of the Bishoprick small.
which they report thus came to pass, One of the Bishops at the Reformation sold the Churches Revenues far below their value [some say at 13
shill. Scot
per
Boll] to the Earl knowing that but for a short time he could enjoy the same.
There is a Hill in the Parish of
Wick
called
Stony-hill
the Reason of which denomination is said to be this;
Stony Hill.
In the days of
William King of Scots
1199, as
Buchan:
hath it, there was one
Harald Earl of Orkney and Caithness
who being offended at the Bishop, as having insinuared something to the King against him, apprehended the Bishop, cutting out his Tongue and putting out his Eyes, which being represented to the King, he sent his Forces into
Caithness
and having defeat the Earl, in several Engagements, the Earl fleeing was pursued and being apprehended, his eyes were first put out, and then he was hanged, and all his Male Children were emasculated upon this Hill, which ever since hath been called
Stony-hill.
They told us,
Several Stones set set up for Monuments.
there are several high great Stones set up through the Countrey and that ordinarily on Hills, about which are the Rubbish of other Stones, which have served for some end there, and probably have been places of Pagan Worship, as we observed upon
Orkney,
in the Parish of
Bower,
as we passed, we saw an Artificial Mount ditched about of a small circumference, it is like for the same purpose. They have likewise the Tradition of some Picts houses, which have been here of old, the rubbish wherof is yet to be seen in the Parish of
Latheran,
as a Gentleman well acquainted with the Countrey did inform me.
In the Parish of
Latheran
we saw the Foundation of a House said to be laid by a Bastard Son of the
Earl of Caithness,
but never perfected;
Foundation of a House laid but not perfected.
it is founded upon a rising ground nigh to the Sea, where there is a fair prospect of
Murray,
where it is reported the Gentleman had his Mistress, who intended to build it there, that so she might have a view of the house from
Mu
ray,
and he at the House might see
Murray.
Dunnot Head.
Dunnot Head
stretching out into
Pightland Firt
is about a Mile in breadth, and 7 Miles in circumf
rence, in it are several Lochs, and some good pastu
for Cattel, but no Inhabitants, in it are to be ha
good Mill-stones, and it is thought there is a Lead Mine there. In several places in the parish of
Dunn
there will no Ratts live, and if Earth be brought ou
thence to other places molested by them, they will b
quickly gone.
The
Ord
of
Caithness.
The
Ord
which divideth
Caithness
from
Sutherland
is a high Mountain, as the name
Ord,
which in Iris
signifieth an
height,
doth imply; down which ou
way from
Caithness
to
Sutherland
doth ly, the Road i
but narrow, and the descent steep, and if any stumble thereupon, they are in hazard of falling down a precipice into the Sea at the bottom of the Rock which is is very terrible to behold, but who pass it for the more security use to lead their Horses to the foot of the Hill, which is about a short Mile in length; and no other way there is from
Sutherland
to
Caithness,
or from
Caithness
to
Sutherland
but this, except we go 12 Miles about, but it might be made broader and safer with small expence.
Signs of Rain and drought.
It is observed in
Caithness
as an infallible sign almost when they see a Mist or Cloud, lying down upon the foot of the Hills, that then a drought will follow; but if such a Mist or Cloud be on the top thereof, they thence certainly conclude there will be Rain that day.
A Loch, wherein is a House, built by Robbers.
In the Parish of
Halkirk
there is a Loch [as there are several Lochs in the Countrey] within which Loch are the ruines of an old house built, they say, by Robbers, that they might be the more safe and secure from the fears of being apprehended. That which is most observable concerning this House, is that there is not one foot of more ground, then what is within the circumference of the Foundation, and upon which it standeth, hence either the Water of the Loch hath washen away the prominent Rock, if there hath been any through wasting time, or if there was no part of the Rock without the circumference of the Foundation, it is wonderful to consider, how so nigh to the water the Foundation hath been got laid, the Water about the House being of a considerable depth, and the Extreme parts of the Rock upon which the Foundation standeth, not to give way and fail under the weight of the building, which those who have seen this House, are surprised at. Upon the Loch they have Boats which come closs to the Walls of the House, for the taking of Fowls of divers kinds, as Maws, Herons
&c.
several thousands of which do frequent it, having their Nests in the ruinous Walls.
APPENDIX.
HAving finished and brought to some Issue this Task,
Improvement.
in Communicating my Remarks upon these remote Northern places, I shall now wind up all in some breif Animadversions upon the whole, in in order to a practical Improvement.
And 1st. We would seriously consider and ponder the wonderful Mercy and Grace of our GOD,
Is.
66.14.
in sending the Gospel to the Isles afar off, that these Gentiles who have not formerly heard of His Fame, nor seen his Glory, should have the same declared among them. That through the tender Mercy of our God,
Luk.
1.78 79.
the Day 'spring from on high hath visited and given light to us, who sat in darkness and in the shadow of death. He hath not dealt so with every Nation, with every Isle; the greatest part of which are immersed and suffered to ly in the thick darkness of Paganism. V
were among the first of the Nations in these North
parts of the World, to whom was sent the Word of th
Salvation; and according to the Computation o
e
our
King Donald
was the first Crowned Head in t
World, that bowed to him, who hath on his thigh th
name written,
King of Kings and Lord of Lords.
O
of Zion hath gone forth the Law and the Word of th
Lord from Jerusalem, and hath travelled some thousands of Miles Northward to Britain, and the Isle thereto belonging; Hence those places of our highly an
early favoured Isle, unaccessible to the valour of the Roman Legions,
Tertull.
became subject to Christ;
Britannorum loca Romanis inaccessa,
Is.
42.10, 12.
Christo subdita sunt
O what Reason have we then, to listen to the Evangelica
Prophets Cali,
Sing unto the Lord a new song, and hi
Praise from the end of the Earth: Ye that go down to the Sea, and all that is therein, the Isles and the Inhabitants thereof. Let them give Glory unto the Lord, and declare his Praise in the Islands.
That which may heighten the sense of this distinguishing Mercy and Love, is that we enjoy this Gospel in as great, if not greater purity, then any Nation under Heaven, we have it set forth in its native simplicity, without the Painting and gaudie dress of humane Inventions;
Assembly conveened at
Edinb.
An. 159
. Sess 8.
Calderw. Hist.
which our King James V
I. in his first and better Days, was not ashamed to declare in open Assembly. The Ancient Government of our Church is restored, and her Assemblies allowed to sit under the shadow of lawful Authority: by one of which, we were appointed to visite those Northern Isles, and report unto them at their next Annual Meeting, how matters relating to the Kingdom of Christ, do stand in those remote Corners, that so proper Methods may be concerted and taken by the delegated Representatives of this National Church, for promoting the Spiritual and Eternal Welfare of the Inhabitants.
Tho we enjoy the clear Light of the glorious Gospel
Christ, yet are there many evils from which we are
purged until this Day, For beside the abounding
andals, breaking out to the Dishonour of God, the
eproach of Religion, and the Grief of the Godly,
ere are many Superstitious Fopperies, Charms, Heath
ish and Popish Rites, to which some especially in
ose Isles, are so much addicted, that it proves a most difficult peice of Work to the most zealous Ministers,
get them reformed.
As all should have it much upon their hearts, that
ere should be any such dreadful evils now remaining,
all invested with Authority Civil or Ecclesiastick
t called to employ their utmost endeavours, for the
ter ext
rpation of all Idolatrous Monuments, and rasing
old Chappels so much abused, and that conform to
ct of Assembly: The Government commanding the Magistrates of these respective bounds so to do, for un
that this be, Ministers endeavours whither by Do
rine or Discipline will be the less successful.
Which obstinacy of these poor deluded Souls per
ting in their sin and folly, sheweth the Malice and
btilty of that early and grand Enemie of Man's Sal
tion, labouring to keep some footing in these Isles, so be his deadly wound might be healed, which the
eaching of the Gospel, the Rod of Gods Power hath
ven him.
That which gives great advantage to Satan, is the
ameful Ignorance that abounds in this Day of Gospel-Light, this is to him an useful Handle, whereby
keeps his Subjects under his Empire in his Hellish
amnable Service, for while this Vail is on the eye
the Soul, poor People are not capable of discerning
hat is right or wrong and so are led hood-winkt to
ell; "Tenebrae sunt Visus impeditivae. Gressus prohibitivae, Casus inductivae &c. This black Vail
aweth the Screen round about the Soul,
1
Cor.
2.14.
whence nei
er Sin, nor Misery are felt or seen: They are dead,
the Pythagoreans and Platonists, used to place a Coffin in the room of their outcast Scholars; And t
Jews used to say,
A dead Carcase is better than a Disc
void of Wisdom and Knowledge.
And no wonder it be in such dark Corners, where there are so few Schools a Seminaries of Learning; No wonder the Enemie s
his tares, where there is not sown the seed of Kno
ledge; And where not a competency of Knowled
there can be no Obedience to, nor Love of God or
Ways:
Ut Lux est vitae Directrix, sic Vehiculum
loris.
Blessed are they then who are priviledged with t
Means of Knowledge, Schools for the Education their Youth, and to whom the doors of the Sanctua
stand open from time to time, where God by his M
nisters teacheth Knowledge to those who enquire his Mouth. Happy they who know and improve the Mercy, the joyful Sound given by the Silver-Trumpe
of the Gospel every Lord's-Day; who do receive t
Truth in Love; And so must we account for our Me
cy; if from the heart we have believed and obeyed t
Gospel.
Beside the Book of Grace, giving light to the Chur
of Christ, we have also the large expanded Book
the Creation, whose lines are gone out through all t
Earth, whence we may spell the Being of a God,
Wisdom, Goodness and Power; The Heavens decla
his Glory, and the Firmament sheweth his hand Work; the various Tides; the Ebbing and the Flowi
Sea, bounded by the Sand and Rocks, which it da
beateth on, the Fowls of the Air and Fishes of the S
each frequenting their proper habitation, do all Pr
claim aloud the Glory of him who created them,
Almighty Power preserving them in their beautiful a
wonderful order, and his Infinite Wisdom governi
and directing them to their several ends, to which th
are by him appointed.
Tho so many objects do occur to the diligent Obse
ers of the Works of Creation and Providence, yet w
an by the short Cordage of their Reason fathom those depths, so as to give a satisfying account thereof. Still they may rather be the subject of our Admiration notwithstanding of all the Essays, the ingenious and sedulous Enquirers into the Mysteries and Secrets of Nature, have either of old or of late obliged and gratified the World with: Whereupon the humble Saint is ready to express himself with the Wise Man
I am more brutish then any Man,
Prov
30.2.18.
and have not the understanding of a Man;
and say
Such things are too wonderful for me, yea and I know them not.
To conclude,
1
Cor.
3.9; 10.12.
We see now but through a glass darkly, we know only in part, but when that which is perfect is come, then that which is in part shall be done away, And this also we may apply to the Works of Creation. Most happy we if after all our Travels, Voyages and Labours of whatever kind, we arrive at that place of perfection, where the Militant State of the Church, shall be changed into that of a Triumphant, where the wicked cease from troubling and the weary be at rest; When tears shall be wiped from the eyes, sorrow and sighing shall flee away; When that desirable Day shall break, and all shadows be gone; When Satan shall be bruised under our feet, and Death and all its black Retinue be swallowed up in Life and Victory; When no more Darkness in the Understanding, Perverseness in the Will, Disorder in the Aflections, or sense of Guilt in the Conscience. When our Duty shall be Praise, our Grace a burning Love even to a bodily present Christ, and our Work shall be to follow the Lamb, whi
hersoever he goeth, and so be for ever with the Lord.
FINIS.