A TOUR Thro' the Whole ISLAND of
GREAT BRITAIN.
Divided into
CIRCUITS
or
JOURNEYS.
GIVING A Particular and Entertaining ACCOUNT of whatever is
Curious,
and worth
Observation
; VIZ.
I. A DESCRIPTION of the Principal Cities and Towns, their Situation, Government, and Commerce.
II. The Customs, Manners, Exercises, Diversions, and Imployment of the People.
III. The Produce and Improvement of the Lands, the Trade, and Manufactures.
IV. The Sea Ports and Fortifications, the Course of Rivers, and the Inland Navigation.
V. The Publick Edifices, Seats, and Palaces of the NOBILITY and GENTRY.
VI. The Isles of
Wight, Portland, Jersey, Guernsey,
and the other
English
and
Scotish
Isles of most Note.
Interspersed with Useful
OBSERVATIONS.
Particularly fitted for the Perusal of such as desire to Travel over the ISLAND.
By a
GENTLEMAN.
The THIRD EDITION. With very great Additions, Improvements, and Corrections; which bring it down to the Year 1742.
And a Copious INDEX to each Volume.
VOL. IV.
LONDON: Printed for J. OSBORN, S. BIRT, D. BROWNE, J. HODGES, A. MILLAR, J. WHISTON, and J. ROBINSON. M.DCC..XLII.
A TOUR Thro' that PART of
GREAT BRITAIN
CALLED
SCOTLAND.
LETTER I. Containing a General
DESCRIPTION
of
NORTH BRITAIN,
its
Soil, Produce, Manufactures, Ecclesiastical Government,
&c.
SIR,
T HAT I may avoid Repetitions in my TOUR thro' the
Northern Part
of this famous Island, I shall begin with the following Particulars.
I. I shall give a brief Geographical Account of
Scotland.
II. Of its Lakes and Rivers.
III. Of its Fisheries, including that for Pearls.
IV. Of the Cattle, Fowls,
&c.
V. Of its Manufactures of Linen and Woollen.
VI. Of the Grain and Pulse it produces.
VII. Of its Mountains, Woods,
&c.
VIII. Of its Fountains, Springs, Medicinal Waters,
&c.
IX. Of precious Stones,
&c.
found there.
X. Of the Customs, Language, Manners,
&c,
of the People.
XI. Of the Religion and Ecclesiastical Government of
Scotland.
XII. Of the Civil Government of
Scotland.
XIII. A short View of the Acts of Parliament since the
Union,
that have made any Alteration in the Laws of
Scotland.
XIV. Of the Order of the
Thistle.
XV. Some brief Observations on the Whole; and the Division of
Scotland
into Shires,
&c.
Of all which, as succinctly as possible. And,
I. A brief Geographical Account of
Scotland.
SCOTLAND
is bounded on the North by the
Irish
Sea and
England,
from which it is divided by
Solway Firth,
and the Rivers
Esk
and
Kexsop
; on the West Border, by the
Cheviot
Hills in the
Middle Marches
; and by the lower Parts of the
Tweed,
on the East Border. On the East it is bounded by the
German
Sea; on the North by the
Deucaledonian
Sea; and on the West, by the great Western Ocean.
Its greatest Length from
Dungsby-head
or
John
of
Grot
's-
house
in
Caithness,
to the
Mull
of
Galloway
towards
Ireland,
is no more than about 215
Scots
Miles; but if we reckon directly North from
Dumfries,
or the said
Mull
of
Galloway,
to the utmost Parts of
Caithness,
or
Strathnavern,
the Length will not be so much; and less still, if we reckon from
Berwick
to either of these Places.
Its Breadth, from the Point of
Ard-na-murchan
near the Isle of
Mull,
about the middle Part of
Scotland
in the West, to
Buchan-ness
in the East Parts, towards the North, is about 140
Scots
Miles; but the Sea running up into the Land, or the Land thrusting out into the Sea in many Places, makes the Breadth of it every-where else very various and disproportionable; for in the South Parts it is seldom 100 Miles over, and in the North Parts, beyond
Inverness,
not so many; so that there is no House above 40 or 45 Miles from salt Water.
Besides the main Land, there are about 300 Islands, some of them very considerable, which may be distinguished into several Classes: The Western Islands called
Hebrides,
or
Aebudae,
by
Latin
Authors; the
Orcades,
or
Orkney
Islands: the Islands of
Shetland,
or
Zetland,
and some few in the Firth of
Forth.
The whole Country abounds in Lakes and Rivers, many whereof running into Creeks and Arms of the Sea, (which in several Places are very wide and deep) afford great and commodious Opportunities for Fishing and Shipping: But 'tis much to be regretted, that the Land is neither cultivated, nor the Fishing and Shipping carried on and improved, to so much Advantage as might be expected.
Tho' the Soil is not generally so level and fruitful as that of
England,
yet the South Parts of
Scotland
are far more pleasant than, and preferable to, the North Parts of
England
; and there are everywhere all Things necessary for human Life: And not only sufficient for the Inhabitants, but also to export and exchange for such foreign Commodities as the People want, and to return considerable Sums.
II. Of the most remarkable Lakes and Rivers in
Scotland.
THE most remarkable Lakes in
Scotland
are
Loch-tay,
and
Loch-ness,
and
Loch-levin:
Which all send forth Rivers of the same Name with themselves:
Loch-lomond,
which sends forth the River of
Lomond
; and
Loch-iern,
which sends the River
Iern.
'Tis observed, that
Loch-ness, Loch-tay,
and
Loch-iern,
seldom freeze.
Loch-myrton
in
Galloway
is another, and remarkable for this, That one Part of it generally freezes in the Winter-season, and the other Part seldom does.
There is a
Loch
in
Straith-errach,
in the Lord
Lovat
's Lands, which never freezes, however severe the Frost be, till
February
; and then, in one Night's time, it freezes all over; and if the Frost continue two Nights, the Ice grows very thick. There is a Lake of the same Nature call'd
Lochmonar,
in the Earl of
Cromarty
's Lands in the North; and there is another Lake in
Straglash,
at a Place call'd
Glencanich,
in a high Ground betwixt the Tops of two Mountains, the middle of which Lake is always frozen throughout the Summer, notwithstanding the strong Reflexions of the Sun-beams from the Mountains, which melt the Ice at the Sides of the Lake. The Ground round the Lake has a constant Verdure, as if there were a perpetual Spring; and Cattle grow sooner fat by that Grass than any-where else: And this is so much the more remarkable, that there are several other Lakes in the Neighbourhood, of as high a Situation, wherein no such thing is seen.
In
Linlithgowshire
is a Lake call'd
Loch-coat Lough,
from whence a Stream runs under a neighbouring Mountain, the Murmur of which is heard among the Stones; and after it has run thus under Ground for about two hundred Paces, it issues with great Force from a Fountain about three Feet broad, and forms a Stream which turns a Water-mill.
For the Conveniency of Trade and Fishing, there are so many Inlets of the Sea, that there is scarce any Part of it, as I have said, above 40 Miles distant from some Bay, Creek, or Arm of the Ocean; and these afford many Harbours, several of them very good, and capable of receiving Men of War, and Ships of the greatest Burden.
The principal Rivers in
Scotland
are TAY, which divides it in the Middle, and running by
Scone, Perth,
and
Dundee,
empties itself into the
German
Ocean. In the Southern Parts, the FORTH and TWEED run into the same; CLYDE runs into the Western Sea; as ESK, ANNAND, NITH, KEN, DEE, and CREE, do into the
Irish.
In the North, DEE and DON run into the
German
Ocean, as SPEY and NESS do into
Murray
Firth.
The most convenient for Trade are TAY, which is navigable to
Perth
; FORTH and CLYDE, which, if join'd by a Canal, near the Place where the
Romans
formerly built their Wall of about 30 Miles long, to defend their Province from the
Scots
and
Picts,
would open a Communication betwixt the East and West Seas, to the great Advancement of the Commerce of the whole Island. There was much Talk of it about the Time of the
Union
; but as it would undoubtedly be attended with very great Charges, and other Difficulties, the Project seems to be laid quite aside.
I am the briefer in my Account of the Lakes and Rivers in
Scotland,
because I shall be obliged to be more particular upon them in their respective Places.
III. Of the Fisheries in
Scotland,
includeing that of Pearls.
THE Salmon-fishery is particularly the Boast and Delight of the
Scots
; insomuch that for it they too much neglect all the rest.
Their SALMON are accounted the best in
Europe,
and tho' their Barrels be a Third less than that of
Berwick,
yet they have yielded 10 Livres more
per
Barrel, in
France
; partly because of their Goodness, and partly because better cured, wherein the Magistrates and Town-council of
Aberdeen
take a very particular Care. Salmon abound not only in the navigable Rivers of
Scotland,
but in those which are less, in most Parts of the Kingdom; and they valued them so much formerly, that in several of their old Acts of Parliament they forbad selling them to
England,
except for Gold.
Clyde
abounds with Salmon, for which the Town of
Renfrew
has been famous; and Bishop
Lesley,
in his Description of
Scotland,
says, They used, in his Time, to employ sixty Vessels in Fishing most of Spring and Summer; but 'tis much short of
Aberdeen,
where the same Author says, the Rivers
Dee
and
Don
exceed all those of the Kingdom for Number and Goodness of Salmon: For which he assigns this Reason, That they delight in clear Streams, which occasions our Rivers in
Scotland
to abound more with Salmon than those of other Countries where the Rivers are more muddy. The other Places, most remarkable for Salmon-fishing in
Scotland,
are in the
Dovern
at
Bamf,
the Rivers
Nesse, Nairn, Findorn, Lossey
and
Spey
in
Murray
; the latter abounds with Salmon for 60 Miles together.
Lochlomond
in
Lenox
is remarkable for Salmon of an excellent Taste,
Loch-ou
in
Argyll,
the like: And there is good Salmon-fishing in the Rivers
Lough
and
Speynie
in
Lochaber,
in the Bay of
Cromarty,
near
Dingwal
Castle, and in the Rivers
Tay
and
Tweed,
and other smaller Rivers in the bordering Counties. They have marl'd or speckled Salmon in
Harries, North-vist
and
Benbecula.
And in the Isle of
Sky,
there are no less than 30 Rivers all abounding with Salmon.
As to their COD-fishing, Mr.
Spruel
(an eminent
Scots
Merchant, who laid an Account of the Product of the Kingdom for Trade before their Parliament, some Years ago) says, he was inform'd by a
Yarmouth
Man, who use to buy those Fish and Salt on the
Scots
Coast, that he has sometimes got four thousand cur'd Fish in a Voyage, at 1
d.
or 2
d.
apiece, and retail'd them again from 18
d.
to 2
s.
6
d.
apiece; which shews what vast Advantage might be made of this Trade, since the
Scots
Cod are reckon'd as good or better than those of
Newfoundland.
And what contibutes much to the Cheapness of this and the Herring-fishery in
Scotland,
is, that they are caught with fewer Hands, and Vessels of far less Expence, than Doggers, which must be well mann'd and strong, because oblig'd to lie at Sea; whereas the
Scots
catch those Fish in their own Creeks, Bays and Harbours, where few Hands and open Vessels are for the most part sufficient, because they are seldom exposed to any Danger by Storms, being always near the Shore, and laid up at Night.
HERRINGS abound on all the Coasts of the Kingdom, but especially on the Western Isles, which are reckon'd the best and fattest, tho' not so large as those taken on the Eastern and Northern Coasts. The
Scots
Herring-fishing is accounted the best in the World, and the
Dutch
have got a great Part of their Wealth by it.
A Fishery was attempted in the Isles by King
Charles
I. in Conjunction with some Merchants; and a Magazine was erected for that Use in
Hermetra,
one of the
Harries
Islands, and another in the Isle of
Vacksay
; but the unhappy Civil War coming on, it was not prosecuted. It was renew'd by King
Charles
II. and succeeded well for a Time: The Fish they caught were accounted the best in
Europe,
and yielded a Price accordingly; but the King withdrawing his Money afterwards, to supply his pressing Occasions, the Merchants were displeased at it, and differing among themselves, did also withdraw theirs; which ruin'd the Design.
Some
Dutch
Families settled in the Village of
Stornway,
in the Isle of
Lewes,
soon after that Prince's Restoration; and so much improved the Inhabitants in the Fishing Trade, during the small Time of their Abode there, that they still exceed all those of the neighbouring Isles and Continent; they brought the Natives a great deal of Money likewise, for their Sea and Land-Fowl: But King
Charles
II. being prevail'd on to send away the
Dutch,
it was a great Loss to the Country.
Herrings are sometimes bought in the Isles for 6
d. per
Barrel, and when cured and sent abroad, yield from 25 to 40
s. per
Barrel; and sometimes 36000 Barrels of white Herrings have been exported to
France
from
Clyde
in a Season, besides what were exported from
Dunbar,
and other Parts of the Kingdom, to
France,
and other Nations; which may serve as a Specimen to shew how capable that Trade is of Improvement, especially considering the Situation of the West of
Scotland
and the Isles, from whence they may be a Month sooner at Market with them, than from any Part of
England
and
Holland
; which, with the Advantage of taking and curing them cheaper and sooner than the
Dutch
can possibly do, considering how far they have to sail backward and forward, what Risques they run at Sea, and what Numbers of Tenders they are obliged to send to and again betwixt their own Country, and their Doggers with Provisions, Salt,
&c.
they might soon be outdone in that profitable Trade by the Inhabitants of
Great Britain,
who may lie ashore at Night, and land their Fish as soon as caught, without any Danger from Tempests or Enemies; many of those Bays where the Herring abound, being very safe for Ships to ride in.
Whales
in abundance frequent the Islands of
Fladden, Orkney
and
Lewes:
One hundred and fourteen run ashore on the Island of
Orkney
at one time, in the Year 1691.
Cod, Tusk,
and
Ling,
are caught in vast Plenty upon all their Coasts.
Haddocks, Sturgeon, Turbut, Trouts, Perch, Pike, Scate, Greyberd, Maycril, Keeling, Whiting, Sea-urchin, Cat-fish, Cockpadle, Lyths, Spirlings, Soles, Flukes, Garvie, Eels,
are also caught on the
Scotish
Coasts in great Plenty, for Home-consumption.
Otters,
whose Skins are useful for Muffs,
&c.
are very numerous in the Isles.
Shell-fish of all sorts, as
Lobsters, Crabs, Oysters,
are also found in vast Quantities in the Western Islands; the latter so large, that they must be cut in three or four Pieces, to be eaten.
Cockles, Muscles, Limpets, Wilks, Scollops,
and
Spouts,
are cast up by the Tide in such Numbers on the Isles, that the People cannot consume them.
PEARL being the Product of Fish, it is proper to discourse of the
Scots
Pearl here. Mr.
Spruel,
the Merchant above-mentioned, who understood the Pearl-trade best of any Man in that Kingdom, having dealt in it above forty Years, says, He has sometimes given a hundred Rixdollars, which is near 25
l.
for one
Scots
Pearl; and that he had
Scots
Pearl as fine, clear, and more transparent, than any Oriental Pearl. Tho' the latter be more easily match'd, because they are all of a yellow Water, yet Foreigners covet
Scots
Pearl. The more Wrinkles there are in a Pearl-shell, the more Sign it is of the Age and Goodness of a Pearl; for the smooth Shells are young and barren: Therefore he proposed, that a Law should be made to forbid the Fishing of young Pearl; for the longer they stay in the Water, the more valuable they are: So that he would have no Shells taken up less than four Inches in Length, or two or three in Breadth; and that none should be allowed to offer any Pearl to be sold, that weighs less than five Grains; which is as reasonable as Laws to prevent the taking of the young Fry of Salmon, since Pearl are of much more Value. And that they might have Time to grow and increase, he proposes, That Pearl-fishing should be forbid, except once in ten Years at least; because he has been sorry to see some Thousands of young Pearls offer'd to Sale, that were of no manner of Value; whereas, had they lain in the Waters their due Time, they might have been worth from four to fifty Crowns apiece.
Pearl is found in most Places of the Nation where Salmon are taken; and once in twenty Years, he says, there is a great Pearl-fishing in
Scotland.
This does not hinder, but that Pearl-shells of the Size he proposes, or larger, may be taken up at any time when found; and these are probably to be had among the unfrequented Isles.
Particular Places where Pearl abound, are the Rivers in the Isle of
Skye,
where they are frequently found in black Muscles, especially in the Rivers
Kilmartin
and
Ord,
where Pearls have lately been found of 20
l. per
Piece; and in a fresh-water Lake near the South-side of
Loch-einardstad.
In that same Island there are also Muscles that breed Pearl.
Tho' the small Pearl be not so useful for Ornament, yet they may be of very good Use in Physick, and make a fine Article in the Apothecary's Bills, being reputed the chief of all Cordials, and very good against the Plague, violent and pestilential Fevers, Fluxes, Heart-burning, Giddiness of the Head, Trembling of the Heart,
&c.
which is sufficient to shew, that the Pearl-fishery well deserves Encouragement, since we may be supply'd with it much cheaper at Home, than from the
Indies.
IV. Of the Cattle, Horses, Fowls,
&c.
of
Scotland.
THE Country in general abounds in Flocks of Sheep, and Herds of Cattle; which are generally black, except in Corn-soils, where they seldom breed or keep any more than are necessary for the Plough or the Pail. But 'tis observable, that such as are bred in the Corn-countries, are much larger than those bred in other Parts, and equal in Size to those bred in some Parts of
England,
even where the Land seems to be better.
In general, their Sheep and Cattle are much smaller than those of
England,
especially in Pasture-lands; yet are they of a far sweeter and more delicious Taste. The
Highlanders
bring great Numbers of them yearly into the Lowlands, where some are fatted; but the Bulk of them, and also many of those bred in the Lowlands, are sent into divers Parts of
England,
especially to
St. Faith's
near
Norwich,
where they turn out to good Account; as I have observed in its Place.
They have also very many
Hogs,
and an incredible Number of
Goats,
particularly in the North and Highlands; the latter they eat themselves, but the former they pickle and export, as they likewise do vast Quantities of
salt Beef.
In the Southern Counties there are no
Deer,
except in Gentlemens Parks; but every-where else, they are in great Plenty.
They breed great Numbers of
Horses,
especially in
Galloway
and the
Highlands
; small indeed, but capable of great Fatigue, especially if we consider, that they are not only more proper for the Saddle, and other Uses in that Country, which, being hilly, will not admit, in many Places, of Teams and Carriages; but are more hardy than Horses of a larger Size, and will thrive upon what would starve great Horses. Nevertheless, in many Places of the
Lowlands
they can breed Horses fit for War, Coach, or Carriage.
Scotland
has not only Plenty of
domestick Fowl,
such as are common to other Countries; but many that are peculiar to themselves, especially in the Islands, where they are in such Multitudes as the Inhabitants can neither consume nor vend half of them; but their Trade for them will still increase, as it has done since the
Union.
Their
Fowl
and
Eggs
afford a large Fund of Trade for Food, and their
Feathers
for Bedding and other Uses: Their Fat is made use of by the Inhabitants not only in many Cases where Oil is necessary, but likewise for Physick.
V. Of the Linen and Woollen Manufactures of
Scotland.
FLAX
abounds in
Scotland,
so that besides what they consume themselves, they export great Quantities of
Linen,
brown and whitened; which is one of the greatest Manufactures of the Kingdom, and, if duly regulated and encouraged, as it is more and more since the
Union,
might save a great deal of Money in the Island, besides what it may bring in to it; for the
Scots
have improved their
Linen Manufacture
much of late; and besides fine Linen, make very good
Holland, Cambrick, Muslins
plain and striped,
Calicoes, Damask, Ticken
for Beds,
&c.
white and dyed
Threads, Laces, Tape,
&c.
Mr.
Spruel
(in his
Account current betwixt
Scotland
and
England) says, He has known, out of a Pound of Flax of
Scots
Growth, which cost but 12
d.
six Spangles of fine Yarn spun, which was sold at
Glasgow
at about 4
s.
8
d. per
Spangle; which made the Product of that 12
d.
to the Spinners 28
s.
and, made into fine Muslin, that same Pound of Flax amounted to 10 or 12 Dollars, which is 2
l.
16
s.
8
d.
or 2
l.
16
s.
the Charges of Weaving and Whitening deducted. He adds, That from one Pound of
Scots
Flax, Lace-makers have made
Lace
to the Value of 8
l.
Sterling; which is sufficient to shew how much the Linen Manufacture may be improv'd there, and how many poor Women, who are not capable of employing themselves otherwise, may get a Livelihood by it, and what Money it may bring into the Nation.
Their HEMP is also capable of being improved, not only to save Money in the Island, which is exported for
Canvas, Sailcloth,
&c. but also to export, and to make
Nets
for their Fishery, and other Uses.
The numerous and large Flocks of Sheep they have in
Scotland
produce abundance of WOOL, from whence come Manufactures of several Sorts; as
Broad-cloth, Coarse
or
Housewife's-cloth, Fingrims, Serges, Bays, Crapes, Temmin,
Glasgow
Plaids, Worsted Camblets,
and other Stuffs and
Stockens
for Home-consumption and Export; besides their
Tallow
and
Skins.
Their Wool in general is not so good as that of
England
; yet they have brought their Broad-cloth lately to a great Perfection, but can never equal
England
in that Part of Woollen Manufacture: Nevertheless it is very proper for
Serges, Bays, Camblets, Shaloons,
and other Stuffs; and by due Regulation is capable of great Improvement for a foreign Trade. They are come to a great Perfection in making
Stuffs
; and for
Plaids,
I shall observe by-and-by, they exceed all the World.
An Instance of what great Improvement may be made of their Wool, we have from Mr.
Spruel
(in his
Account current
);
viz.
That they make such fine Worsted Stockens at
Aberdeen,
that they yield 10, 15, 20, and 30
s.
a Pair for Womens Stockens; which is sufficient to shew, that they are capable of making Stockens at lower Rates, especially considering that they have store of very good Wool brought thither from the Highlands and Isles; which because sold at the Cross of
Aberdeen,
is commonly called
Cross-Wool.
The most remarkable Places besides in
Scotland,
for good Wool, are
Galloway
and
Tweedale
; from which great Improvement might be made in
Bays, Serges
and
Shaloons.
The
Scots
Plaids are a Manufacture in which they exceed all Nations, as I have said, both as to Colour and Fineness. They have of late been pretty much fansied in
England,
for
Beds, Hangings, Window-curtains,
and
Night-gowns,
for both Sexes; so that Attempts have been made at
Norwich
to imitate them; but they fall much short of the
Scots
in Colour, Fineness, and Workmanship, as is evident at first Sight. Their greatest Trade for their Woollen Manufactures, and other Commodities, has for many Years been with the
United Netherlands,
where they have a
Conservator,
who serves both for a Consul and Envoy, to take care of the Affairs of their Trade, being part of the antient Privileges they enjoyed by Treaties with the Dukes of
Burgundy
and others, when Sovereigns of the
Netherlands.
From this Trade the Towns of
Rotterdam
and
Ter-veer
have acquired considerable Wealth; in Return for which, the
Scots
have been always well esteemed in those Provinces; and the States allow them Churches, and Maintenance for their Ministers.
VI. Of the Grain and Pulse of
Scotland.
THE WHEAT of
Scotland
is so excellent, that
Joseph Scaliger,
who had been in the Country, says, No Bread in
Europe
is comparable to what is made of it, for Whiteness, Lightness, and easy Digestion. It abounds in the
Mers, Lothian, Gavrie,
&c. so that they have not only enough for their own Consumption, but for Exportation.
OATS are the most universal Grain of the Kingdom, and exceed those in
England,
for all Uses. They grow very well every-where, and in such Quantities as afford a considerable Fund for Export, both in Grain and Meal, and make very good Bread and Drink.
PEASE they have in great Plenty, both for their own Consumption, and for Exportation; and they are so good of the Kind, that in some Parts of the Country the labouring Husbandmen make good nourishing Bread of them.
BEANS they have also in great plenty for their own Use, and for Export.
BARLEY grows likewise very well in
Scotland
; but they sow more of that Sort they call
Beer,
which has four Rows of Grain upon an Ear; whereas Barley has but two: Of this they make good
Bread, Broth, Ale,
and
Beer,
and export great Quantities.
RYE grows also very well in
Scotland,
and makes good Bread; but this they don't cultivate so much as they do the Grains above-mentioned.
VII. Of the Mountains, Wood, Timber,
&c.
of
Scotland.
THE most remarkable Mountains of
Scotland
are the
Grampian
Mountains, which run from East to West, from near
Aberdeen
to
Cowal
in
Argyllshire,
almost the whole Breadth of the Kingdom, famous for the Battle fought on them betwixt the
Romans
and the ancient
Scots
and
Caledonians,
under the Conduct of
Galgacus,
as we find in
Tacitus.
The next most remarkable Chain of Mountains are those of
Lammermoor,
which run from the Eastern Coast in the
Mers
a great way West. Next to these are
Pentland
Hills, which run thro'
Lothian,
and join the Mountains of
Tweedale
; and these again are join'd by others, which run thro' the whole Breadth of the Island. Other remarkable Mountains are those called
Cheviot
Hills, in the Border betwixt the two Kingdoms:
Drumbenderlaw
and
North-Berwicklaw,
both in
East-Lothian; Arthur
's-
seat
in
Mid-Lothian; Cairn-apple
in
West-Lothian; Tentock
in
Clydsdale; Brinmore
in
Argyll
; the
Ochel
Mountains in
Perthshire
; the
Lowmonds
and
Largolaw
in
Fife
; in
Angus, Dundeelaw,
and Part of the
Grampians
; in
Caithness, Ord
; and, in the
Orkney
Islands, the Mountains of
Hoy.
There are many large Woods of OAK in
Scotland,
which afford Materials for
Building
and
Shipping,
and for the Husbandman's Use; and the Country is very improveable this way, if Planting were more encouraged; however, they have at present not only such as are fit for the Uses above-mentioned, but also for
Pipe-staves
and
Barrels
; and their
Bark
is of Use to the
Tanners,
great Quantities of which are annually exported to
Ireland,
and elsewhere. They have likewise ASH Trees, ELMS, and others, fit for
Building,
and other
domestick
Uses; and great Forests of FIR, which afford Materials for
Building
and
Shipping
; and might, with due Care, afford
Pitch
and
Tar,
without being obliged to bring such large Quantities from the
Northern
Countries, as is usually done by the Inhabitants of
Great Britain.
There were formerly many great Woods in
Scotland,
among which the Forest of
Caledonia
was famous; but there are now scarce any Remains of it.
The Woods are more rare than formerly in the Southern Parts of the Kingdom; of which the most remarkable now left are those of
Hamilton, Calendar,
and
Torwood:
But in the North, especially in
Perthshire, Lochaber, Badenoch,
and
Mar,
there are many Forests, some of them 20, and some 30 Miles in Length.
They have abundance of
Fruit-trees
of all Sorts, in their Gardens and Orchards, and might, by Improvement, not only have sufficient to afford them Fruit for Home-consumption, but also Cyder for their own Drinking and Export.
VIII. Of the Medicinal Waters, Fountains, Springs,
&c.
THE more remarkable Medicinal Fountains in
Scotland
are
Moffat Wells,
which spring from the Top of a Rock near the Town of that Name in
Annandale.
The Wells are two in Number, near one another; the higher Well runs through whitish and crystalline Stones, and the lower through black ones, resembling Marcasites of Antimony: The Smell of the Water is like that of Gunpowder, and it dyes Silver of a black Colour. To the Stones of the upper Well grows a Matter resembling stinking Sulphur of Antimony, of a yellowish red Colour; the Stones of the lower Well are of the Colour of Antimony, and some of them contain a metallick Matter, that sparkles like Antimony. Where the Stream of the lower Well runs down into a neighbouring Brook, there sticks to the Rock a whitish Salt, and perhaps a nitrous Matter, which has the diuretick Virtue of the Water. Those Waters also purge by Stool and Vomit, and are very good against Colick and Nephritick Pains, because they powerfully remove the Obstructions of the Bowels. They are outwardly applied to Ulcers, and against Pains in the Joints; they are strongest in their Operation in the driest Season of the Summer and Autumn, but are not so good in a rainy, or in the Winter-season.
Mahon
's
Well,
near St.
Mahon
's Church, has the same Virtue, but does not operate so strongly; and there is a Well of the same Nature discover'd not many Years ago at
Hallyards,
within six Miles of
Edinburgh.
At
Kinghorne
a very clear and cold Water flows from the Clefts of a Rock, which quickly passes through the Body; is of excellent Use for recovering a lost Appetite, and against the Gravel and Stone; it is outwardly applied to watry and itching Eyes, and against Redness and Pimples in the Face: The famous Dr.
P. Anderson
wrote upon its Usefulness. There flows also from the same Rock a whitish viscid Liquor, which is an excellent Cosmetick.
Arthrey Well,
two Miles North of
Stirling,
flows from a Mountain; where is a Copper Mine, with some Mixture of Gold and Silver: The Water is very cold, and being tinctur'd with the Minerals it flows through, is of Use against outward Distempers.
In
Glenelg,
at a Place called
Achignigle,
is a Stream which turns Holly into a greenish Stone of which they make Moulds for casting Musket-bullets, and Melting-pots for melting Brass, and other Metals, and Whirls for Womens Spindles.
There is a petrifying Fountain near the Castle of
Slaine,
the Water of which, dropping from a natural Cave, presently turns into Pyramids of Stones, which are brittle, and make good Lime; there is another in
Hamilton
Wood, the Stones made by which resemble putrid Moss.
At
Monkton,
near
Edinburgh,
is a Well, called
The routing Well
; because of the Noise it makes before Tempests, from the Part of the Well which looks to that Quarter of the Sky, from whence the Tempest is to blow.
There is another on the West-side of
Campsey
Hills, which divides
Stirlingshire
from
Lenox
; whose Water makes People drunk.
IX. Of Precious Stones, and other valuable Commodities.
THE following valuable Commodities, and Precious Stones, are found in different Parts of
Scotland.
Coral
and
Coraline,
in the Isles of
Lewes, Sky,
and
Jura.
Ambergris,
on the Coasts of the Islands
Bernera, South-vist, Bintire,
and
Orkney.
Marcasites, Lapis Ceranius, Lapis Hecticus, Agat
of different Sizes and Colours; all in the Isle of
Sky.
Crystal,
in the Isles of
Sky, Arran,
and
St. Kilda.
Fullers Earth,
in the Isle of
Sky.
Fine Shells,
which pass in
Africa
for Money, in the Isles.
Loadstone,
in the Isle of
Cannay.
Sperma Ceti,
on the Coasts of
Orkney,
and other Isles.
Mines of
Gold,
in
Crawford Moor.
Also
Azure,
in the Reign of
James
IV.
Silver
Mines, three Miles South of
Linlithgow,
in the Reign of
James
VI.
Copper,
in
Airthrey,
near
Stirling.
Lead,
in
Clydsdale,
of which the Earl of
Hopton
makes good Account.
Lead
and
Tin
in
Orkney.
Iron,
at
Dumfernling
in
Fife.
Coal,
in
Lothian, Fife,
&c.
Free-stone, Slate, Lime-stone, Marble,
in great Plenty all over the Country.
And Sir
Robert Sibbalds
asserts, that they have also
Diamonds, Rubies, Carbuncles, Hyacinths, Jaspers, Cornelians, Amethysts,
&c. to whom I refer you for farther Satisfaction on this Head.
X. Of the Customs, Manners, Language,
&c.
of the
Scots.
THE
Scots
are divided into HIGHLANDERS, who call themselves the antient
Scots
; and into LOWLANDERS, who are a Mixture of antient
Scots, Picts, Britons, French, English, Danes, Germans, Hungarians,
and others.
Buchanan
describes the Customs of the
Highlanders
graphically thus: In their Diet, Apparel, and Houshold-furniture they follow the Parsimony of the Ancients; they provide their Diet by Fishing and Hunting, and boil their Flesh in the Paunch or Skin of a Beast: While they hunt, they eat it raw, after having squeez'd out the Blood. Their Drink is the Broth of boil'd Meat, or Whey they keep some Years, and drink it plentifully in their Entertainments; but most of them drink Water. Their Bread is of
Oats
and
Barley,
the only Grain produced in their Country, which they prepare very artfully: They eat a little of it in the Morning, and contenting themselves with that, hunt, or go about their Business without eating any more till Night. They delight most in Cloaths of several Colours, especially strip'd; the Colours they affect most, are Purple and Blue. Their Ancestors, as do most of them still, made use of Plaids very much variegated; but now they make them rather of dark Colours, resembling that of the Crops of Heath, that they may not be discovered while they lie in the Heaths waiting for their Game. Being rather wrapped up than covered with those Plaids, they endure all the Rigours of the Seasons, and sometimes sleep covered all over with Snow. At Home they lie upon the Ground, having under them Fern or Heath (covered with a Sheet or Blanket); the latter laid with the Roots undermost, so as it is almost equal to Feathers for Softness, but much more healthful; for the Quality of Heath being to draw out superfluous Humours, when they lie down weary and faint upon it at Night, they rise fresh and vigorous in the Morning. They affect this hard way of sleeping; and if at any time they come into other Places of the Country, where there is better Accommodation, they pull the Coverings off the Bed, and lie down upon them wrapped in their Plaids, lest they should be spoiled by this barbarous Effeminacy, as they call it.
The LOWLANDERS partake much of the Temper of the People, of whom we have mentioned them to be composed, but most resemble the
French,
occasioned by the long League betwixt the two Nations, their mutual Commerce, frequent Intermarriages, and Custom of travelling into
France
to study the Law, and other Sciences, and by their affecting to serve in the
French
Armies. But since the Union of the Crowns, the
English
Customs, and Way of Living, have obtained much in the
Lowlands,
where the
English
Tongue has been their natural Language for above 600 Years; but still retains more ancient
Saxon
and
French.
This being extraordinary, and perhaps singular, that a foreign Language should prevail in a Country altogether independent of
England,
and where the Inhabitants are of another Lineage, and maintained such fierce and long Wars to preserve their distinct Sovereignty; the
Scotish
Antiquaries and Historians give the following Reasons of it:
1. The frequent
Saxon
Auxiliaries sent to assist the
Picts
against the
Scots,
which occasion'd many of those
Saxons
to settle in the
Lowlands
of
Scotland,
then possessed by the
Picts.
2. The last considerable Effort made by the
Picts,
in Conjunction with the
English,
to recover their Country against
Donald
V. of
Scotland
; who, after he had defeated the
English
and
Picts
upon the River
Jedd
in
Tiviotdale,
neglecting to improve his Victory, was afterwards surprised by them near
Berwick,
and taken Prisoner after a great Slaughter of his Men. Upon this Success, the
English,
under the Conduct of
Osbreth
and
Ella,
possessed themselves of the Country as far as
Dumbarton,
without restoring the
Picts
; the major Part of which retired to
Denmark
and
Norway,
and the Remainder were cut off by the
English,
to prevent their calling in Foreigners. Thus the
English
continued in Possession of that Part of the Country, from the Year 858, till about the Year 875; when King
Gregory the Great
of
Scotland
recovered the Country; and the
Scotish
Proprietors, the Possession of their Estates: But willingly entertained the
English
Commonalty and Husbandmen, who were as desirous to stay, their own Country being, at that time, infested by the
Danes
; and they rather chose to be under the Dominion of the
Scots,
who were Christians, than under that of the
Danes,
who were Pagans.
3. Great Numbers of the
English
came into
Scotland
to assist King
Malcolm
III. against the Usurper
Macbeth,
whom he rewarded after his Victory with Possessions in
Scotland.
4. A great many
English
came to
Scotland
after the
Norman
Conquest, with
Edgar Atheling,
and his Sister
Margaret,
who was afterwards married to King
Malcolm
above-mentioned; which makes the Reasons of the
Scots
Historians for the prevailing of the
English
Language in the Lowlands of
Scotland,
very probable.
It has been gaining Ground upon the old
Scots
Language ever since, which is now confined to the Highlands and the Isles, where most of those of Note do also understand
English:
Tho' about 100 Years ago, the old People in
Galloway
generally understood the
Erse
or ancient
Scots
Language, which is now worn quite out.
XI. Of the Religion and Ecclesiastical Government of
Scotland.
THE
Estabished Religion
of
Scotland,
since the Revolution, and confirmed by the Act of
Union,
is what is called
The Presbyterian
; being a Church Government by
Pastors, Teachers, Elders,
and
Deacons.
Before the Revolution, the Church was govern'd by Bishops; but they not coming so readily into the new Settlement, as the Presbyterians did, were abolished.
The Ecclesiastical Courts, as they now stand, are Four;
viz.
1. The
Kirk Session,
consisting of the Minister, Elders, and Deacons in each Parish, who consider the Affairs of the Parish as a Religious Society. They judge in all Matters of lesser Scandals, can suspend from the Communion, and regulate all Particulars relating to publick Worship and the Poor.
2. The
Presbytery,
which consists of the Minister, and one Elder, from five to ten, twelve or more neighbouring Parishes, who chuse one of these Ministers to be Praeses or Moderator. Here are tried Appeals from the Kirk Sessions; and here they inspect into the Behaviour of the Ministers and Elders within their respective Bounds. They supply vacant Parishes, ordain Pastors, examine and license School-masters, and young Students, for probationary Preachers; and judge when, or on whom, to inflict the greater Excommunication.
3. The
Provincial Synod.
This is composed of all the Members of several adjacent Presbyteries. It meets twice a Year at some principal Place within its Bounds: Is open'd by a Sermon. Their Business is to receive Correspondents from the neighbouring Synods, who are a Check upon one another; to determine Appeals from the
Presbyteries
in their District; to inquire into, and censure the Behaviour of the Presbyteries themselves. They likewise have Power to transport or remove a Minister from one Place to another; which often occasions great Disturbance. Hence lie Appeals, however, to
4. The
General Assembly,
the highest Ecclesiastical Power in the Kingdom, in which presides a Lord-Commissioner, a Man of the first Quality, as a Representative of the King's Person. All the Members of this are annually elected: and the last Moderator opens the new Sessions with a Sermon.
The same Discipline, as to the main of the several Forms and Proceedings, was observed in the Episcopal Times, only they had no Lay-Elders; the Bishop, or his Deputy, being a Minister, or Ministers, within the Bounds, presided in all Presbyteries and Diocesan Synods, as the Archbishop of
St. Andrews
did in the National or General Assemblies. For it must be observed, that Episcopacy in
Scotland
differed from the same Thing in
England
; for here it was as low as the Nature of an Episcopal Church could admit. The Bishops were
sine quibus non
; they had no Lay-chancellors, but did all Things
Presbyterorum Consilio.
The Number of Churches in
Scotland
since the Reformation, is much less than it was before. However, there are none now of peculiar or exempt Jurisdiction. They are about 950, beside some few Chapels, which make up 68 Presbyteries, included in 13
Provincial Synods,
which formerly were divided into
two Provinces,
under two Archbishops, and twelve Bishops, as follow:
1. The Archbishoprick of ST. ANDREW'S contained all
Fife,
Part of
Perthshire, Angus,
and
Mernis.
2. The Bishoprick of EDINBURGH contained the
Three Lothians,
(some few Parishes excepted)
Sterlingshire,
and the
Merse.
3. DUNKELD contained the North Parts of
Perthshire,
and some Part of
Angus
and
Lothian.
4. DUMBLANE, contained the West and South Parts of
Perthshire.
5. BREECHIN contained Part of
Angus
and
Mernis.
6. ABERDEEN contained all
Aberdeenshire,
and Part of
Bamff.
7. MURRAY contained
Murray, Nairn,
Part of
Bamff,
and
Inverness.
8. ROSS contained the Shires of
Ross, Cromarty,
and Part of
Inverness.
9. CAITHNESS contained
Caithness, Sutherland,
and
Strathnaver.
10. ORKNEY contained all
Orkney
and
Zetland.
11. The Archbishoprick of GLASGOW, which was very extensive, contained the Shires of
Clyddesdale, Dunbarton, Renfrew, Air, Dumfries, Peeblis, Selkirk,
and
Roxburgh.
12. The Bishoprick of GALLOWAY contained the Shire of
Wigton,
and
Stewartry
of
Kirkudbright.
13. The ISLES contained
Arran, Bute, Cumbra,
and almost all the
Hebrides,
or
Western Isles.
14. ARGYLL contained all the Shire of
Argyll, Lochaber,
and some few of the
Isles.
The Thirteen PROVINCIAL SYNODS, into which
Scotland
is at present divided, are,
1. LOTHIAN and TWEEDALE, consisting of Seven Presbyteries;
viz. Edinburgh, Linlithgow, Biggar, Peeblis, Dalkeith, Haddington,
and
Dumbar.
2. MERSE and TIVIOTDALE, consisting of Six Presbyteries;
viz. Dunse, Chirnside, Kelso, Jedburgh, Selkirk, Ersilton.
3. DUMFRIES consists of Four Presbyteries;
viz. Middlebee, Lochmaban, Pentpont,
and
Dumfries.
4. GALLOWAY consists of Three Presbyteries;
Wigton, Stranrawer,
and
Kirkudbright.
5. GLASGOW and AIR consist of Seven Presbyteries;
viz. Air, Irvin, Paisley, Hamilton, Lanerk, Glasgow, Dumbarton.
6. ARGYLL and AIR consist of Seven Presbyteries;
viz. Denoon, Campleton, Inverary, Kilmoir, Sky.
7. PERTH and STIRLING contain Five Presbyteries;
viz. Dunkeld, Perth, Dumblane, Stirling, Auchterarder.
8. FIFE contains Four Presbyteries;
viz. Dunfermling, Kirkalder, St. Andrews, Cowpar.
9. ANGUS and MEARNIS contain Six Presbyteries;
viz. Meigle, Dundee, Forfar, Breechin, Aberbrothock, Fordun.
10. ABERDEEN consists of Eight Presbyteries;
viz. Kincardin, Aberdeen, Alford, Garioch, Deer, Turreff, Fordice, Ellon.
11. MURRAY consists of Six Presbyteries;
viz. Strathbogie, Elgin, Forres, Inverness, Abernethy, Aberlower.
12. ROSS consists of Four Presbyteries;
viz. Chanonry, Tain, Dingwal, Dornoch.
13. ORKNEY consists of Three Presbyteries; viz.
Caithness, Orkney, Zetland.
The Law of
Scotland
has provided against Pluralities; and throughout the whole Country there are scarce any Benefices worth less than 50
l. per Annum,
Sterling; which in that Country is a good Maintenance.
XII. Of the Order of the
Thistle,
or St.
Andrew,
in
Scotland.
THE Order of St.
Andrew,
or the
Thistle,
by reason of its great Antiquity, and memorable Institution, is, upon all Occasions, called,
The most Antient and most Noble Order of the Thistle,
being founded, as all the
Scots
Historians assert, by
Achaius
the 65th King of
Scotland,
after a signal Victory obtained over the
Saxons, Anno
819. and dedicated to St.
Andrew,
the Patron or tutelar Saint of
Scotland.
This Order came at length to shine forth in fuller Splendor in the Reign of King
James
V. who was himself a most splendid and magnificent Prince. He caused the Collar of the Order to be composed of two antient Badges or Symbols of the
Scots
and
Picts
;
viz.
The
Thistle,
and
Sprigs
of
Rue
; but about the Time of the Reformation it fell into Desuetude, and was scarcely used by the Knights then; being so very zealous for the Reformed Religion, that they left their Order where they laid down their Popery, and it was never after reassumed till the Reign of King
James
VII. who, for the better regulating of the Order in all its Proceedings, signed a Body of Statutes, and appointed the Knights Brethren to wear the Image of St.
Andrew
upon a blue watered tabby Ribband; and likewise named the Royal Chapel, or Abbey Church of
Holy-rood-house,
to be the Chapel of the Order (the old Church of
St. Andrews
being ruined at the Reformation); for which End it was put in excellent Repair, but was divested of all its beautiful Ornaments by a furious Rabble at the late Revolution.
Her late Majesty Queen
Anne
was pleased to revive the said Order upon the 31st of
December
1703. and signed a Body of Statutes, wherein the Colour of the Ribband was charged from Blue to Green, to make a Distinction between this Order, and that of the
Garter:
all which Statut
s the late King
George
I. was pleased to confirm, with some additional ones, among which, was that of adding Rays of Glory to surround the whole Figure of
St. Andrew,
which hangs at the Collar. And tho' from the Time of the Reformation, both Elections and Installments had been dispensed with, his Majesty was pleased to order, that for the future Chapters for Election shall be held in the Royal Presence; to which End he commanded the great Wardrobe to provide the Knights Brethren, and Officers of the Order, with such Mantles, as are appointed by the Statutes of the Order.
XIII. Of the Civil Government of
Scotland.
THE
College of Justice,
commonly called,
The Sessions,
consists of a President, and Fourteen fix'd Senators or Judges, called
Ordinary Lords of Session,
and Two Extraordinary Lords; and they have Seven Clerks of Session, and Six other inferior Officers. Before this Court all civil Causes are tried at stated Times. And they determine Causes by Acts of Parliament, and the Custom of the Nation; and where these are defective, they determine according to the Imperial and Civil Law, not according to the Rigour of the Letter, but according to Equity and Justice. There lies no Appeal from this Court, but to the Parliament; and the Presence of Nine Judges is required to make their Decree valid. The Parliament has full Power to affirm or reverse, with Costs not exceeding 200
l.
Sterling.
This Court has distributive Justice only, both in Law and Equity; but no Authority as to Life or Limb, unless for some Faults competent to themselves. Since the Union, Lords of Session are appointed a Committee for planting of Churches, and Valuation of Tythes.
2.
The Justiciary,
commonly called,
The Justice
or
Criminal Court,
consists of Five Lords of the Session, and the Justice-General and Justice-Clerk. They try all Crimes. All Prosecutions in this Court are raised by the King's Advocate; and the greatest Traitor is, here, allow'd Advocates to plead for him.
3.
The Court of Exchequer
was established in pursuance of the
Act of Union,
in the 6th Year of Queen
Anne
; and has the same Power, Authority, Privilege, and Jurisdiction of the Revenue of
Scotland,
as the Court of Exchequer in
England
has over the Revenues there. The Judges have also the Power of passing Signatures, Gifts, and Tutories,
&c.
The Court consists of a Chief, and Four other Barons; and it has Two Remembrancers, a Clerk of the Pipe, Attorneys, Auditors, and other Officers.
The Officers of State are:
1. The Keeper of the Seal, and his Officers.
2. The Lord Privy-Seal, and his Officers.
3. Lord Clerk-Register, and his Officers.
4. Lord Advocate.
The
Faculty of Advocates
enjoy many and great Privileges with the rest of the College of Justice; and have a Dean, a Treasurer, Clerk, Curator, and other Officers.
Writers of the Signet
are those who subscribe all Writs and Summons's that pass the Signet; and they, as well as the Advocates, are capable of being made ordinary Lords.
Besides the above National Judges, every particular County or Shire has a chief Magistrate, or his Depute, ordinary Judge in all Cases Civil and Criminal; but there lies an Appeal from this Magistrate, in most Cases, to the Session and Court of Justiciary.
The
Sheriff
is, in effect, the supreme Justice of Peace, to whom the Law principally intrusts the securing the Quiet and Tranquillity of the Part of the Kingdom of which he is Sheriff. King
James
VI. and King
Charles
I. bought in some, and designed to buy in all the rest, of these heretable Sheriffalties; but most of them yet remain in the great Families of the Kingdom.
Bailiffs, Stewards, and Constables, in their respective Districts, have the same Liberty as Sheriffs in their Shires.
There are Three Sorts of Burghs;
viz. Burghs Royal, Burghs of Regality,
and
Burghs of Barony
; every one whereof is a Corporation, and holds Courts, tho' only the Royal Burghs send Members to Parliament.
The
Royal Burghs
are one intire Body, govern'd by, and accountable to, one general Court, called,
The Convention of Burrows,
which is annually held generally at
Edinburgh,
and have Cognizance of all Matters relating to the Trade and Interest of all the Burghs in general.
Regalities
are Fews granted by the King to some particular Subjects, whose Authority and Jurisdiction are very large and extensive, both in Civil and Criminal Cases; and the Lord, or his Baillie, has not only the Power of
Furca & Fossa,
Pit and Gallows, but a Jurisdiction with the Magistrate
in Civilibus.
As to
Burghs of Barony,
every one that holds a Barony of the Crown, has a Court wherein lesser Causes, both Civil and Criminal, are tried,
&c.
The
Commissariot Courts
are a kind of Ecclesiastical Courts. The Commissaries of
Edinburgh,
who are Four, particularly try Causes of Matrimony and Adultery, in order to a plenary Divorce, not only
à thoro & mensâ,
but even
à vinculo matrimonii
; so that the innocent Party may marry, as if the offending Party were naturally dead.
The
Court of Admiralty
is a supreme Court, in all the Causes competent to its own Jurisdiction; and the Lord High-Admiral is the King's Lieutenant and Justice-General upon the Seas, and in all Ports, Harbours and Creeks of the same, and upon fresh Water and navigable Rivers below the first Bridge, or within Flood-mark. And no Appeal lies to the Court of Session for Maritime Matters. All Maritime Causes, Crimes, Faults, Trespasses, Quarrels,
&c.
are triable before the Lord-Admiral's Judge, (for he himself never judges in Person) by the Civil Law and Customs of
Scotland.
Nevertheless, there are some particular Jurisdictions of Admiralty hereditary in some great Families; as the Duke of
Argyll,
who is Admiral of the
Western Isles
; the Earl of
Sutherland,
of the Shire of that Name; the Earl of
Morton,
of
Orkney
and
Zetland,
&c. And such Men of War as come up the Firth of
Forth,
for guarding and securing the Coasts, receive Orders from the Lord-Provost of
Edinburgh.
By the 6th of Queen
Anne,
Justices of Peace are established in
Scotland,
with the same Authority as those in
England.
XIV. A short View of the Acts of Parliament of
Great Britain,
that have made any Alteration in the Laws of
Scotland,
from the Union of the two Kingdoms,
Anno
1707.
UNION of the two Kingdoms
] By 5
A. R. cap.
8. it was Enacted, That the Kingdoms of
England
and
Scotland
should be united into one Kingdom, by the Name of
Great Britain
; to commence on the 1st of
May
1707.
Parliament
] That the said united Kingdom should be represented by one Parliament.
Succession of the Crown
] That the Succession of the Crown be settled in the Protestant Branches of the
House of Hanover,
as it stands limited in
England.
Land-Tax
] That when 1, 997, 763
l.
8
s.
6
d.
½. shall be raised in
England
by a Land-Tax, the Quota for
Scotland
should be 48,000
l.
as the Quota of that Kingdom,
Scotland,
not to be charged with any Duties laid on by the Parliament of
England
before the Union.
Coin, Weights
and
Measure
] To be the same as in
England.
Trade, Customs,
and
Excise
] The Subjects of the united Kingdom shall have free Trade to all Places belonging to either. To be regulated, as in
England,
throughout the united Kingdom.
Civil Government
] The Courts of Session or College of Justice, the Courts of Justiciary, and the Inferior Courts of
Scotland,
to remain as they are, and no Cause in
Scotland
to be cognizable in the Courts of
Westminster.
Offenders by Dittay
] 8
A. cap.
15. The Method of taking up Offenders by Dittay, and Exhibiting Informations by the Stress of the Portous Roll, abolished.
8
A. cap.
15. Informations in order to make up Dittays concerning Crimes to be tried in the Circuits in
Scotland,
to be by Presentments made by the Justices at their Quarter-Sessions, or upon Information taken by them for Stewards, Bailiffs of Regalities,
&c.
Superiors, Vassals, disarming Highlanders.
1
Geo. cap.
20. An Act for encouraging all Superiors, Vassals, Landlords, and Tenants, who continue loyal to King
George.
Vassals Attendance
] 1
George
I.
cap.
54. injoins, That the personal Service and Attendance which was wont to be paid to the Heads of Clans, and Owners of Estates, at the Pleasure of such Chiefs, under the Names of personal Attendance, Hosting, Hunting, Watching, and Warding, shall be for the future paid in Money, annually; and the said personal Service,
&c.
shall be utterly annulled.
This Act was further enforced in the same Reign, 11
Geo. cap.
26. on the Non-observance of the former, by many of the contemptuous Highlanders.
Highlanders disarmed
] 1
Geo.
I.
cap.
54. An Act for more effectual securing the Peace of the Highlands in
Scotland
: which enacts, That no Person within the said Highlands shall use or bear Broadswords or Target, Poynard, Wingar or Durk, Side-pistol or Gun, or any warlike Weapons, in the Fields, or in the Way to or from any Church, Market, Fair, Burial, Huntings, Meetings,
&c.
However, not to extend to Noblemen, Officers of Justice, or Commoners, having yearly 400
l. Scots,
or who are otherwise qualified to vote at Elections for Parliament-Men; allowing to every such Commoner Two Firelocks, Two Pair of Pistols, and Two Swords; and that the Magistrates of the Royal Burghs may keep Arms in Magazines.
Equivalent.
1
Geo. cap.
27. Commissioners appointed to state the Debts due to
Scotland,
by way of Equivalent. Also,
5
Geo.
I.
cap.
20. An Act for settling certain yearly Funds, payable out of the Revenues of
Scotland
; to satisfy publick Debts in
Scotland,
and other Uses mentioned in the Treaty of
Union,
and to discharge the Equivalents claim'd on behalf of
Scotland,
and for obviating future Disputes concerning it.
N.B.
This Equivalent was stated by the
Union Act,
at 398,085
l.
10
s.
The said Fund to be payable out of the Excise and Customs of
Scotland
; the Charges of the Civil List there being first paid.
If the Produce of the Excise,
&c.
shall be deficient, to be made good out of the Revenues of
Scotland.
Proprietors of Debts incorporated
] The King impower'd to incorporate the Proprietors of 248,550
l.
9
s.
0
d.
½. on whom the abovesaid Annuities are settled, when of it: The said Sum to be the Joint-Stock of the Company, and every one to have a Share in the Annuity in proportion to his Debt.
Elections of Peers and Commoners.
Sixteen Peers of
Scotland
to be chosen out of the
Scots
Peerage, to sit and vote in the House of Lords; and
Forty-five Representatives
of
Scotland,
in the House of Commons of the Parliament of
Great Britain
; Thirty for the Shires,
&c.
and Fifteen by the Royal Burghs.
12
A. cap.
6. No Person who has purchased an Estate, intitled to elect, or be elected, a Member of Parliament, till after a Year's Possession.
Anno
1734. An Act for better regulating the Election of Members to serve in the House of Commons for
Scotland,
and for incapacitating the Judges of the Court of Justiciary, and Barons of the Exchequer there, to be elected, or to sit and vote as Members of the House of Commons.
6
A. cap.
23. An Act requiring the Election of Sixteen Peers. By the same Act, Peers of
Scotland
are to be tried as
English
Peers are, for Treason or Felony.
Scots
Customs and Privileges
in Statu quo.
Royal Burghs.
] Their Rights and Privileges to remain intire.
Regalia
and
Records
] Of
Scotland
to remain there.
Alterations in
Scots
Customs,
&c.
Great Seal
] Only one to be made for the united Kingdom, different from the Great-Seal used in either. Another Seal for
Scotland
to be used in Matters of private Right.
Privy-Council
] By 6
A. cap.
6. After the 1st of
May
1708. there shall be but one Privy-Council for the united Kingdom.
Exchequer
] 6
A. cap.
26. An Act for erecting a Court of Exchequer in
Scotland,
after the Model of that in
England.
Jurors to have 5
l. per Annum.
Four Terms annually for the Court of Exchequer. Writs of Error there to be returnable in the Parliament of
Great Britain.
Malt Act
] 11
Geo. cap.
8. The Duties on Malt in
Scotland,
settled at 3
d.
the Bushel; being half the Duty paid in
England.
Church Government, Toleration,
&c.
The Presbyterian Church Government to remain established in
Scotland.
The Church of
England
to remain established in
England.
10
A. cap.
7. It shall be lawful for those of the Episcopal Communion in
Scotland,
to assemble for divine Worship to be perform'd by Pastors ordained by Protestant Bishops without Disturbance, except in Parish-Churches.
Such Pastors to exhibit their Orders at the Quarter-Sessions of the Peace, and the same to be registred, paying one Shilling.
Such Pastors may
baptize
and
marry,
provided the Christnings be registred, and Banns three times published in the Episcopal Congregations.
One hundred Pounds Penalty for
disturbing
such Congregations.
Excommunication
] No Pain or Forfeiture to be incurred by any Person on any Excommunication by the Church-Judicatories in
Scotland.
Ministers to pray for the Royal Family.
Patrons
] 10
A. cap.
12. Patrons of Churches,
&c.
restored to their Right of Presentation.
Papists and Nonjurors, to register
] 9
Geo. cap.
24. An Act to oblige Papists and Nonjurors to register their Estates in
Scotland.
10
Geo. cap.
10. An Act to explain the said Act, to oblige Papists to register their Estates.
Civil Government.
Justices of Peace
] A sufficient Number to be in
Scotland,
who besides the Powers such Justices now have there, shall have the same Authority as Justices of Peace in
England.
Circuit Courts
] In
Scotland
to be held but twice a Year.
Another 8
A. cap.
15. None obliged to attend Lords of Justiciary in their Circuits, but the Sheriff and his Officers.
And 10
A. cap.
23. Another for appointing Circuit Courts to be held only in
April
and
May.
Christmas Vacation
] 10
A. cap.
13. The Yule Vacance restored.
1
Geo. cap.
28. An Act to take away the Yule Vacance, or
Christmas
Vacation.
3
Geo.
II.
cap.
32. The Judges of the Court of Session are impowered to adjourn their Sessions, so that they may still have a Yule Vacance, or
Christmas
Vacation, if they see fit.
Lords of Session
] 10
Geo. cap.
19. An Act to explain the Law concerning the Trial and Admission of Lords of Session in
Scotland.
Oaths
] 6
A. cap.
14. An Act requiring the Abjuration Oath to be taken by all Officers in
Scotland.
Another 8
A. cap.
14. requiring the Oaths to be taken by all Officers in
Scotland.
Another 5
G.
I.
cap.
29. To make the former more effectual, and to cause the Oaths to be taken by Ministers and Preachers in
Scotland.
Treason and other Crimes.
7
A. cap.
21. High-Treason, and Misprision of Treason, to be deemed the same in
Scotland
as in
England
; and the Crown impowered to grant Commissions of Oyer and Terminer to try the same in
Scotland.
Jurors
] Jurors at such Trials to have Estates of Forty Shillings
per Annum
each.
Treason, Indictments
and
Presentments
] After the Decease of the Pretender, and Three Years after the
Hanover
Succession shall take place, no Attainder for Treason shall disinherit the Heir—And then a Copy of the Indictment for Treason, and a List of the Witnesses to prove it, and the Names of the Jury with these Additions, shall be delivered to the Party indicted, Ten Days before the Trial.
Capital Crimes
] Theft of landed Men, Murder under Trust, wilful Fire-raising, firing Colehughs, and Assassination, to be no longer Treason in
Scotland,
but capital Offences, and punished as such.
Bail
] Enacted, That double Bail be taken in criminal Cases.
Capital and Corporal Punishments,
Not to be executed to the South of the
Firth,
within Thirty Days after Sentence; nor any North of the
Firth,
within less than Forty Days after Sentence.
Lord-Lieutenant,
&c.
impower'd by this Act to summon the Clans to deliver in their Arms.
3
Geo.
II.
cap.
32. An Act for enabling the Judges of the Court of Session in
Scotland
to adjourn the said Court, and to limit the Time for the Execution of Sentences importing Corporal Punishments in that Kingdom.
Further enacted, That it shall be lawful for the Magistrates, and Courts of Judicature, to put in Execution any Sentence importing Corporal Punishment, less than Death or Dismembring, in any Part of
Scotland,
South of the
Firth,
within Eight Days after it is pronounced; and to the Northward of the
Firth,
within Ten Days after it is pronounced.
And the Judges of the Court of Justiciary, or any of them, are authorized, upon Application to them, to delay Execution, if they think proper, for Thirty Days: to the end Application may be made for Relief against any hard or unjust Sentence.
Trade and Manufactures.
Linen Manufacture
] 10
A. cap.
21. An Act for regulating the making of Linen-cloth.
Another 12
A. cap.
20. for regulating the Linen Manufactures.
And 13
G.
I. An Act for regulating the Linen and Hempen Manufactures of
Scotland,
which gives great Encouragement to that improving Branch.
Woollen Manufacturies
] 6
Geo. cap.
13. An Act for regulating the Woollen Manufacturies in
Scotland.
10
Geo. cap.
13. An Act to explain and amend the Act for regulating Woollen Manufacturies in
Scotland.
Fisheries and Manufacturies
] The annual Sum of 2000
l.
to be applied to the Encouragement of the Fishery, and other Manufacturies in
Scotland,
the said Annuities to be in lieu of all Equivalents claim'd by
Scotland.
13
G.
I.
cap.
26. An Act for encouraging the Fisheries, and other Manufacturies and Improvements in
Scotland
; impowering his Majesty to settle a Plan for improving the same.
Naval Stores
] 2
Geo.
II.
cap.
32. An Act to encourage the Importation of Masts, Yards, and Bowsprits from
Scotland.
Highways
] 5
Geo. cap.
30. An Act for making the Laws more effectual for repairing Highways, Bridges and Ferries in
Scotland,
in the same manner as in
England.
The Act relating to the
Forfeited Estates,
appropriates 20,000
l.
out of the said Estates for making a capital Stock for erecting Schools in the Highlands, after other Uses and Designations appointed by the Act, are complied with.
XV. Brief Observations on the preceding XIV Articles; with the Division of
Scotland
into Shires,
&c.
FROM the foregoing Particulars you will perceive, Sir, that this Part of the united Kingdom is far from being so inconsiderable a Country as some would have it thought, who know nothing of the Matter, and give themselves the Licence of making National Reflections; an ungenerous Vice, to which the
English
are but two much addicted, as well with regard to
this
as a
neighbouring Kingdom,
and a still nearer
Principality.
You will observe, that there are but few Things wanting to make
Scotland
as populous, and as full of Trade, Shipping, and Wealth, in proportion, as most, if not the best, Counties in
England.
Those few Things, indeed, are very difficult, if not impossible, to be obtained, as Things stand; particularly,
1. A Change in the Disposition of the common People, from a Desire of Travelling Abroad, to an industrious and diligent Application to Labour at Home.
2. Stock and Substance to encourage that Application. Sloth is not a Disease of the Nation. The
Scots
are as diligent, as industrious, as apt for Labour and Business, and as capable of it, when they are Abroad, as any People in the World; and why should they not be so at Home? No doubt they would, if they had suitable Encouragement.
3. Some little Alterations in their Method of Husbandry, by which their Lands would be improved, and the Produce thereof turn to better Account; of all which something shall be said in my Progress through the Country, as Occasion offers.
4. If Vassalage, Servi
and other Bas-Tenures, or Holdings of L
l
gally altered, and the
Superiors
obliged by Law to sell, or accept of a valuable Consideration, for their Feuds and Superiorities
This has been in a great measure effected by virtue of the Acts for Disarming the Highlanders,
&c.
See
p.
32, 33.
.
5. If they were more accustomed to Leases for Years or Lives, such Tenants and Lease-holders would be better enabled and encouraged to improve the Ground, than otherwise they are or can be.
6. If the Court resided and Parliaments were held sometimes in
Scotland,
or near it; which would save a great deal of Money, now spent in Journeys to
London,
and attending a long time there, which if Individuals find their Account in, is nevertheless a Loss to the Whole.
In the mean time, I shall endeavour to shew what
Scotland
really is, and what it might be, if those Engagements were fulfilled which were promised to them before the Union; such as erecting Manufactures under
English
Direction, embarking Stocks from
England
to carry on Trade, employing Hands to cut down their Northern Woods, and to bring the Fir Timber and Deals to
England,
of which
Scotland
is able to furnish a very great Quantity; and lastly, encouraging their Fishery,
&c.
But leaving its Manufacturies and Wants to the Consideration of those in whose Power it is to promote and supply them, I shall hasten to conclude this Letter; but first shall give you an Account of the present Division of this Part of the united Kingdom into Counties,
&c.
Scotland
then is divided into 31 Shires or Counties, and two Stewarties; which I shall give, as follows, in Alphabetical Order, tho', from the Nature of my Work, I cannot observe that Method in my future Letters.
Shires of
1.
Aberdeen
2.
Aire
3.
Argyll
4.
Bamf
5.
Berwick
6.
Bute
7.
Caithness
8.
Clakmannan
9.
Cromarty
10.
Dumbar
11.
Dumfries,
with the Stewarty of
Annandale
12.
Edinburgh,
or
Mid-Lothian
13.
Elgin
14.
Fife
15.
Forfar,
or
Angus
16.
Hadington
17.
Inverness
18.
Kincardin
19.
Kinross
20.
Lanerk
21.
Linlithgow,
or
West Lothian
22.
Nairn
23.
Peebles,
or
Twedale
24.
Perth
25.
Renfrew
26.
Ross
27.
Roxburgh
28.
Selkirk
29.
Sterling
30.
Sutherland
31.
Wigtown.
The Stewarties of
Kirkubright
and
Orkney.
And now, Sir, having premised these general Things, which will save me much Repetition in my following Letters, I will conclude this with assuring you, that I am
Your humble Servant.
LETTER II. CONTAINING A Description of the
Merse,
the Two
Lothians,
of
Edinburgh, Leith,
&c.
SIR,
I AM just now entered
Scotland
by the ordinary Way of
Berwick,
which stands on the North Side of the River
Tweed,
and has a Bridge by which it is joined to
Northumberland.
It was originally a
Scots
Town, and is to this Day no Part of
England
; but has divers distinct Customs and Privileges, and is mentioned in all Statutes and Proclamations as a Place or Liberty of itself, distinct from
England
and
Wales.
It was formerly the chief Town of the
Merse,
which to this Day is called the Shire of
Berwick.
It was often taken from, and retaken by the
Scots
; but the last time it fell into the
English
Hands, which was long before the Union of the Two Crowns in the Person of King
James
VI. they fortified it more strongly than it had been formerly, and manned it with a sufficient Garison, so that all the Attempts of the
Scots
to regain it afterwards, proved ineffectual. It is a Place of no extraordinary Trade, tho' a great Thorough-fare. It has but one Church, which is under the Jurisdiction of the Bishop, and in the Gift of the Dean and Chapter of
Durham.
As soon as we get out of the Town, we enter on
Scots
Ground, tho', in Times of War, it used to be part of what was called
Debateable Land,
and on that Account but thinly inhabited; for the Borderers of each Kingdom often made Inroads on one another, notwithstanding that a great Number of Men, at an incredible Trouble and Expence, kept Watch every Night; besides which, there were Watch-towers all along the Borders at proper Distances, and several Laws relating to the Borders made by Commissioners from both Kingdoms.
The first Thing we observed was the Sea on the Right-hand, and the River
Tweed,
which fetches a Reach Northward, on the Left. The Land between lies so high, that in stormy Weather 'tis very bleak and unpleasant, having little or no Shelter: However, the Land, compared to what we left in
Northumberland,
or what we soon found farther in
Scotland,
is good.
The first Town in
Scotland
is
Mordington,
a poor sorry Village; yet gives the Title of Lord to a Branch of the noble Family of
Douglas.
The present Lord lives in
England,
and is so well known, that I need say no more of him.
From the Brow of a very high and steep Hill, we had a large View into
Scotland
; but we were welcomed to it by such a Gust of Wind, that it obliged us to quit our Horses in real Apprehension of being blown off; besides, the Wind blowing full North, and the Road turning toward the same Quarter, it blew directly in our Faces. I can truly say, I never was sensible of so exceeding keen and sharp a Cold; for it pierced our very Eyes, so that we could scarcely keep them open.
When we went down the Hill, the first Town we came to is almost as perfectly
Scots,
as if you were an hundred Miles North of
Edinburgh
; and there is very little Appearance of any thing
English
there, either in Customs, Habits, Usages of the People, or in their way of Living, Eating, or Behaviour. And there are very few
English
Familes to be found among them.
On the contrary, you have in
England
abundance of
Scots
Men,
Scots
Customs, Words, Habits, and Usages; nay, even the Buildings in the Towns and Villages all over
Northumberland
imitate the
Scots
; witness their building their Houses with the Stairs going up to the second Story on the Outside of the House, that one Family may live below, and another above, without going in at the same Door (which is the
Scots
way of Living); as you may see in
Alnwick, Wirkworth,
and several other Towns; witness also their setting their Corn in great Numbers of small Stacks without Doors, not making use of Barns, but only a particular Building, which they call a Barn, tho' no more than a Threshing-floor, into which they rake one of these small Stacks at a time, and thresh it out.
The first Town is called
Ayton,
from the small River
Ay,
on whose Bank it stands. The Church was ruinous, and quite destitute of a Roof. The Heritors being of different Opinions, contributed not a little to the Dilapidation. Such as were episcopally inclined were very backward in contributing their Share, and the Presbyterians thought it hard the Whole should lie upon them; so that, between the two, the Roof fell to the Ground. However, the Minister preached in a Barn to the Generality of the Parishioners, and such as were otherwise inclined, heard Episcopal Ministers in the Houses of some of the neighbouring Gentry.
About Three Miles farther East is a small Harbour, with a Town called
Eymouth, Aymouth,
or
Haymouth,
where a Fort was formerly raised to curb the Garison of
Berwick.
This Town gave Title of Baron to the late Duke of
Marlborough
; but the Patent being granted only to him, and the Heirs-male of his own Body, the Honour extinguished with him. It is a good Fishing-town, and affords a good Harbour for Fishing-vessels. In Queen
Elizabeth
's Time, the
French
held it, and fortified it, as it was the first Port in
Scotland
they could safely land their Supplies at, for the Queen-mother; but they were obliged to quit that, and the Kingdom, some time after, by a Treaty, Queen
Elizabeth
supporting the Reformers against her.
From this Bridge we enter upon a most desolate, and, in Winter, frightful Moor for Travellers, especially Strangers, called
Coldingham Moor,
upon which, for about Eight Miles, you hardly see a Hedge or a Tree, and you meet with but one House all the Way, and that not a House of Entertainment.
Coldingham,
whence this Moor derives its Name, was an old Monastery, built by
Edgar,
King of
Scotland,
about the Year 1100, and famous for its Lady Abbess
Ebba,
of whom they tell us the following Story.
This Lady was the Daughter of
Edelfred,
King of
Northumberland
; and, when her Father was taken Prisoner by the Pagan
Mercians,
she got into a Boat in the
Humber,
with three other Women, and, by their own Prayers only, were miraculously preserved, and carried as far as
Scotland,
where, under a Promontory, they were driven on Shore by a Storm, and their Boat dashed in Pieces.
When they got ashore, they laboured with their Hands, and made themselves a little Hut to lodge in; they continued their religious way of Living, and the Country People sustained them with Food; till at length, acquiring a great Character by their Sanctity and Austerity, they were addressed to far and near for their Prayers; and, by the Charity of the People, got enough to build a religious House at
Coldingham.
Here, as Fame says, when the cruel
Danes
came on Shore, the religious Lady (who, it seems, was very beautiful too!) cut off her Nose and upper Lip, and made all her Nuns do the same, in order to preserve their Chastity. Whereupon the barbarous
Danes,
enraged at their Zeal, fired their Nunnery, and burnt them all alive. From this Lady, who, it is said, was sainted for these Sufferings, the Promontory where she landed is to this Day called
St. Ebbe's Head,
and vulgarly, by our Sailors,
St. Tabbe's.
There was once, upon the Point of this Promontory, a strong Fort called
Fast-castle,
belonging to the Earl of
Hume
; but it has been some time demolished.
A little to the North-west is the Town and Castle of
Duns,
remarkable for the Birth of
John Duns Scotus, Anno
1274. some of whose Family are still in Being there. He was a Frier Minor, and the greatest Scholar of his Age.
Scaliger
says, there was nothing his Genius was not capable of. But his chief Study was in Points more nice than necessary, whereupon he was called
Doctor Subtilis.
His Followers, called
Scotists,
were great Opposers of the
Thomists,
another Set of Scholasticks, so named from
Thomas Aquinas.
He studied at
Oxford
and
Paris,
and died of an Apoplexy at
Cologn.
After
Berwick
was taken by the
English,
the Sheriff-Court was kept here, which was but lately removed to a Market-town, called
Greenlow
; which is also a Royal Burgh, and the principal in the Shire, belonging to the Earl of
Marchmont.
Duns
was also remarkable for the Encampment of the
Scotish
Army, under General
Lesley,
assembled to oppose King
Charles
I. when he came to the
English
Borders with an Army, to
persuade
that Kingdom to Obedience. It has the best weekly Market for Cattle in
Scotland,
and is a Place of the best Trade in this County.
Coldstream
is also a Market-town, in this County of
Merse,
where was antiently an Abbey.
Eccles
likewise had another: and
Ersilton
is noted for the Birth-place of the Rhyming Poet
Lermouth,
so much admired by the Vulgar
Scots. Hume
was formerly the Residence of the Earls of that Name, which they derived from the Town, and they had a strong Castle there, now demolish'd.
The inconsiderate Vanity of the ancient
Scotish
Gentry and Nobility, of deriving their Names from the Places of their Residence, had this Inconvenience attending it, that in a few Generations, it lost the old Name of the Family from which these
Changelings
(may I, without Affront, call them?) descended. Thus the
Dunbars
and
Humes,
originally the same, came to be thought two distinct ones. In like manner, the
Gordons, Swintons, Ridpaths, Nisbets,
and the
Spotswoods,
as some say, tho' all of the same Original, must have lost the Knowledge of it, had it not been for Tradition, or the Armorial Bearings of the several Families, which bespeak them to be of the same Lineage. This Hint may serve once for all, as to those Families called of
that Ilk
;
i. e.
whose Surname and paternal Estate, are the same, and are generally esteemed ancient and honourable.
The County of
Merse,
or
March,
formerly gave Title of Earls of
March,
to the Family of
Dunbar,
who, according to
Camden,
derived their Origin from the famous
Gospatrick,
Earl of
Northumberland,
who retired into
Scotland
on the
Norman
Conquest, and was honoured with the Earldom of
March,
and Castle of
Dunbar,
by the then King
Malcolm Canmore,
whence his Posterity took the Name; while another Branch, being possessed of the Barony of
Hume,
assumed that for their Surname, which they still retain.
George de Dunbar
being proscribed in the Reign of
James
I. of
Scotland,
the Title of Earl of
March
was conferred on the Duke of
Albany,
then on the Family of
Stewart
and
Lenox
; which being extinct, King
William
III. conferred it on
William Douglas,
Brother of the Duke of
Queensbury,
whose Son now enjoys it.
Having passed over
Coldingham Moor,
called also
Lambermoor,
the Lowlands of
East-Lothian
shew themselves from the Top of a steep Hill, and give a Prospect of a fruitful and pleasant Country. As soon as we come down the Hill, there is a Village, called
Cockburnspath,
or
Cobberspath,
where Nature forms a very steep and difficult Pass, and where a thousand Men well armed, and boldly doing their Duty, could keep out a very great Army, if there was occasion for it.
The next Shire is that of
East-Lothian
; and the first House of any Note we met with in it, was that of
Dunglass,
the Seat of Sir
James Hall.
We began here to see, that
Scotland
was not naturally so barren, as some People represent it; but might be made equal even to the richest, most fruitful, most pleasant, and best improved Part of
England,
if the
Scots
had the same Methods of doing it, and were as good Husbandmen, as the
English
; and this might easily be brought to pass, would the Gentry set about it, as this Gentleman has, in part, already done.
The Truth is, the Soil hereabout is very good, and the Sea-ware, as they call the Weeds which the Sea casts up, abundantly supplies the Defect of Marl, Chalk, or Lime-stone; for by laying this continually on the Land, they plough every Year, without letting it lie fallow, as we do; and I found they had as much Corn, as our Ploughmen express it, as could stand upon the Ground.
The next Town of Note is
Dunbar,
a Royal Burgh, which, in
Scotland,
is much the same with what we call a Corporation in
England,
and sends Members to Parliament in like manner; only, in
Scotland,
these Burghs have some particular Privileges separate to themselves; as that, for Example, of holding a Sort of Parliament, called a
Convention of Burghs,
a Method taken from the Union of the
Hans Towns
in the North, in which they meet and concert Measures for the publick Good of the Towns, and of their Trade, and make By-laws, or Acts and Declarations, which bind the whole Body. Not have they lost this Privilege by the Union with
England,
but it is preserved entire, and is now many ways more advantageous to them than it was before, as their Trade is like to be, in time, more considerable. But this I have taken notice of in another Place.
This Town of
Dunbar
is a handsome well-built Town, situated in the Mouth of the River
Forth,
on the South-side towards the
German
Ocean. It is a very considerable Port, and of great Advantage to all Ships in the River, in case of Stress of Weather; but yet its Entrance was so difficult by steep Rocks, in the Mouth of the Harbour, that the Corporation had exhausted itself by endeavouring to cut through them; and being unable to proceed further in it; and at the same time, the Town-house and School of the Town being run to Decay, and the Town itself destitute of fresh Water: To answer all these good Purposes, they procured an Act to pass, in the Year 1718. intituled,
An Act for laying a Duty of
Pennies
Scots,
or one
6
th Part of a Penny, upon every Pint of Ale or Beer that shall be sold within the Town of
Dunbar;
for improving and preserving the Harbour, and repairing the Town-house, and building a School, and other publick Buildings there; and for supplying the said Town with fresh Water.
This Duty has been of very great Service to the Town, and has enabled them to make a great Progress in the intended Improvements; but the principal Works, which were to dig up Part of a Rock at the Bottom of the Harbour, to carry out the great Pier to the Rock called
The Beacon Rock,
to cut the Slope of the Island down to a Perpendicular, and to supply the Town with fresh Water, remaining undone; and the Act expiring in the Year 1738. the same was continued for 25 Years longer, by an Act passed 10
Geo.
II. which will, it is hoped, perfect all that remains undone.
They had here a great Herring-fishery, which has decayed very much of late Years; and they cure Herrings here, as they do at
Yarmouth
in
Norfolk,
tho' I can't say they cure them so well, nor are they so fit for keeping and sending on long Voyages. The Herrings themselves may indeed make a little Difference, being generally larger and fatter than those of
Yarmouth
; which makes it more difficult to cure them, so as to keep in a hot Climate, and on a long Voyage. Here was formerly a strong Castle, which was demolish'd by Act of Parliament during the Minority of King
James
VI.
Between the Town and the great Road stands a little, but pleasant and agreeable Seat of the Duke of
Roxburgh,
called
Broxmouth,
with a Park well planted in Vista's and Walks; for the Gentlemen of
Scotland
are now set upon planting Forest-trees, as well for Ornament as Profit. And here I would give an useful Hint to the Gentlemen who plant Trees in
Scotland,
the Want of which, as I have observed at several great Houses and Parks in that Country, is the Reason they do not thrive, as they might otherwise do: And this is, by securing the young Trees by a triangular Frame seven or eight Feet high, which is made by setting three large Stakes about them in an equilateral Triangle, and Tree and all, with Haybands, to defend the Bark, fasten'd together at the Top. Then, as the Tree stands in the Centre of the Triangle, which way soever the Wind blows, the Root is not shaken, or the Earth moved and loosened about it.
For want of this, the Tree being left without Support before it has taken Root, the Winds shake it every way, and loosen the Earth about it, so that it gets no Time to strike. This is the Reason why, in many of the Gentlemens Parks, I saw the Trees stunted and balked, though they had been planted many Years.
On the South-west Side of this Town, under the Mountains, near a Place called
Dun-hill,
is the Field where the Battle of
Dunbar
was fought between
Oliver Cromwell
and General
Lesly,
Commander of the
Scots
Army, where the desperate Few (for
Cromwell
's Army was not above 8000 Men) defeated and totally overthrew the great Army of the other Side, killed 6000 of them, and took 10000 Prisoners, to the Surprize of the World.
Here we turned out of the Way, to see the Marquis of
Tweedale
's fine Park at
Yester,
or
Zester
; in the Centre of which stands a very noble House, but in a too low Situation.
The old Earl of
Tweedale,
in the Reign of King
Charles
II. having seen the Plans of
Greenwich
and
St. James
's Parks, was so pleased with them, that, as soon as he went down into
Scotland,
he laid out the Plan and Design of all those noble Walks and Forests of Trees, which he planted here. A Gentleman whose Judgment I can depend upon, told me, that if ever those Trees came to be worth but Six-pence apiece, they would be of more Value than the Fee Simple of the whole paternal Estate of the Family. Nor is this unlikely, if it be true, that his Lordship, and his immediate Successor, planted above 6000 Acres of Land with Fir-trees; and where-ever any of them failed, they were constantly renewed the next Year.
The Park itself is said to be eight Miles round, and exceeds, in many respects, the new Park at
Richmond
in
Surrey:
But the Plantation of Fir is not confined to this Estate; for the Family has another Seat at
Pinkey
near
Musselburgh,
where the same Lord planted also a great Number of Trees, as his Successors have likewise done at another Seat, which they have in
Fife,
near
Aberdour.
As this Planting is a great Encouragement to the Nobility of
Scotland
to improve their Estates by the same Method, so we find abundance of Gentlemen follow the Example; insomuch that you hardly see a House of Note, especially in the South Parts of this Country, but is adorned with Groves and Walks of Fir-trees about it; by which we may reasonably expect, that in a little time
Scotland
will have no need to send to
Norway
for Timber and Deal, but will have sufficient of her own, and, perhaps, be able to furnish
England
too with considerable Quantities.
From this Town of
Dunbar
to
Edinburgh,
the Country may be reckoned as fruitful, pleasant, and rich, as any in
Scotland,
or, indeed, as most in
England.
The Sea is on the Right-hand at a moderate Distance, and the Hills on the Left, farther off, which are habitable, and feed large Flocks of Sheep, and have many open Roads leading over them from
Edinburgh,
and other Parts, towards
England.
The most material Thing this Country wants, is more inclosed Pastures, by which the Farmers would be enabled to keep a sufficient Stock of Cattle well foddered in the Winter, and thereby not only be furnished with Store of Butter, Cheese, and Beef for the Market, but likewise by the Dung of the Beasts
nrich their Soil, according to the unanswerable Maxim in grasing, That Stock upon Land improves Land.
Two other Articles would increase and enrich them, which they seldom or never practise:
1. Folding their Sheep within moveable Hurdles.
2. Fallowing their ploughed Land.
The first would fatten the Ground, and the latter destroy the Weeds; which would be of great Service to the Land at a Distance from the Sea, where they have not the Benefit of Sea-weed, which I have just now mentioned.
But at present, for want of Inclosures, they have no Winter Provision for black Cattle, and therefore the Farmers have no Dairies, no Butter or Cheese, in any Quantity, and no Heaps of Dung in their Yards to return upon the Land for its Improvement. Thus a good Soil is impoverished for want of Husbandry.
From
Dunbar
we pass another River
Tyne,
which, to distinguish it from the two
Tynes
in
Northumberland,
I shall call
Scots Tyne,
tho' not so distinguished here. It rises in the Hills near
Yester,
and watering part of the fine and pleasant Vale I mentioned before, runs by
Haddingtoun,
a Royal Burgh, and an old, half-ruined Town, with the Remains of an old Nunnery. It was formerly large, handsome, and well-built, and reckoned very strong; for besides the Walls of Stone, which were in those Times esteemed very good, the
English
fortified it with Lines and Bastions, four of which latter were very large, as may be seen by what remains of them to this Day. It had also a large Ditch, and was so strong, that the
English,
commanded by Sir
George Wilford,
defended it against a great Army of
French
and
Scots,
tho' his Garison were almost all swept away by the Plague, till he was relieved from
England,
when he quitted it, after demolishing the Fortifications.
They have a good Stone-bridge here over the
Tyne,
tho' the River is but small. The Church was large, but has suffered in the Ruin of the rest, and but part of it is repaired, tho' big enough for the Number of Inhabitants. There are in it some Monuments remaining of the Duke of
Lauderdale,
and other
Maitlands,
ancient Lords of this Part of the Country; but as the Choir of the Church is open and defaced, they have suffered with the rest.
In and about this Place I saw something of a Manufacture, and a Face of Industry, which was the first I had hitherto seen the least Appearance of in
Scotland
; particularly, here was a Woollen Manufacture, erected by a Company or Corporation for making Broad-cloth, which they call
English
Cloth: And as they had
English
Workmen, and
English
Wool, they really made it very good; but I cannot say they could bring it so cheap to the Market as they do in
England.
This was the Reason, that tho' before the late Union, the
English
Cloth being prohibited upon severe Penalties, their own Cloth supplied them very well; yet, as soon as the Union was made, by which the
English
Trade was opened, the Clothiers from
Worcester, Gloucester, Wilts, Somerset,
and
Devonshire,
brought in their Goods, and underselling the
Scots,
those Manufacturies were not able to stand it. However, the People turn their Hands to other Things, are still employed in Spinning, Dying, Weaving,
&c.
and carry on a good deal of that Sort of Business.
On the North-side of the Mouth of the
Forth,
stand the Remains of
Tantallon
Castle, infamous in the
Scots
History for being the Seat of Rebellion in the Reign of King
James
V. Hence came the odd Fancy among the Soldiers, That the Drums beating the
Scots
March, which was invented by the King's Soldiers, when they marched against the Earl of
Angus,
who held out this Castle against him, say,
Ding down Tantallon.
But it is now no more a Fortress, being intirely demolished.
Over-against this, in the Mouth of the same River, stands a steep Rock, called the
Bass,
inaccessible on all Sides, except by one narrow Passage. It was formerly slightly fortified, rather to prevent its being made a Retreat for Pirates and Thieves, than for any Use it could be of to command the Sea; for the Entrance of the
Forth
is so wide, that Ships can go in and out, without the least Danger of being hurt by any thing that could be offered from the
Bass.
In the Times of the late King
Charles
II. and his Brother King
James
VII. it was made a State-Prison, where the Western People, called in those Days
Cameronians,
were confined, for being in Arms against the King. And after the Revolution a desperate Crew of People got Possession of it; and having a large Boat, which they hoisted up upon the Rock, or let down at Pleasure, committed several Piracies, took a great many Vessels, and held out the last of any Place in
Great Britain
for King
James:
But their Boat being at last either seized or lost, and not being seasonably supplied with Provisions from
France,
as they used to be, they were obliged to surrender.
The
Solan
Geese are the principal Inhabitants of this Island, a Fowl rare as to its Kind; for they are not found any-where in
Britain
that I can learn, except here, in some of the lesser Islands in the
Orcades,
and in the Island of
Ailzye,
in the Mouth of the
Clyde.
They come as certainly at their Season, as the Swallows or Wood-cocks, with this Difference, (if what the People there tell us may be depended on) that they generally come exactly to the very same Day of the Month.
They feed mostly on Herrings, and therefore 'tis observed, they come just before or with them, and go away with them likewise, tho', 'tis evident, they do not follow them; for they go all away to the North, but whither, is not known. As they live on Fish, so they eat like Fish, which, together with their being so exceeding fat, makes them, in my Opinion, a very coarse Dish, rank, ill-relished, and soon gorges the Stomach. But here they are look'd upon as a Dainty.
It is a large Fowl, rather bigger than an ordinary Goose. 'Tis web-footed, but its Bill is pointed like a Crane or Heron, only much thicker, and not above five Inches long. When they are coming, they send some before to fix their Mansion, which, for that Reason, are called
Scouts.
The Inhabitants are careful not to disturb them till they have built their Nests, and then they are not to be frightened by any Noise whatsoever. They lay but one Egg at a time, which they so dextrously fix by one End to a Point of the Rock in the middle of the Nest, that if it be pulled off, 'tis difficult to fix it so any more. They hatch it, by holding it fast under one Foot, and seldom leave it till it be hatched. The Fish caught by the old ones often serve the Inhabitants for Food, and the Sticks they bring to make their Nests supply them with Fewel. They make great Profit both of the Flesh and Feathers of their young ones, which are taken from their Nests by one let down the Rock with a Rope. When young, they are of an ash Colour; but when old, white.
At the Top of the Rock is a fresh-water Spring, with a small Warren for Rabbets; but the Bottom of it is almost worn through by the Tide. It was formerly the Possession, and sometimes the Seat, of the antient Family of
Lawder,
who a long time refused to sell it, tho' often solicited to it by several Kings. King
James
VI. told the then Laird,
He would give him whatever he pleased to ask for it
; whereby that Gentleman had a fine Opportunity of making a good Bargain: But after he had told his Majesty, That he would sell it upon these Terms, and the King desiring to know what he would ask, he answered,
Your Majesty must e'en resign it to me; for I'll have the ald Craig
(
i. e.
Rock)
back again.
However, the Family, at last, coming to Decay, it was purchased by King
Charles
II.
From hence, keeping the Shore of the
Forth,
due West, we find a Range of large and populous Villages all along the Coast, almost as far as
Leith.
All this Part of the Country is delightfully spread with the Seats of Noblemen and Gentlemen; as the Duke of
Roxburgh
's near
Dunbar,
the Earl of
Haddington
's at
Tinningham,
the Lord
Beilhaven
's at
Beilhaven,
and that of the Family of
Dalrymple,
Earl of
Stair,
who have fine Seats at the Burgh of
North Berwick,
(where there is a small, but pretty good Market)
Hales,
and in the Neighbourhood of this Place.
The House and Estate of
Dirleton,
now in the Family of
Nisbet,
is pleasantly seated in this Part of the Country; as is
Ormistoun,
a thriving little Town, belonging to the Family of
Cockburn
; round which they have a handsome Estate, so well planted and improved, that I don't remember to have ever seen a more beautiful Spot of Ground. They have also a pretty good Seat here; but when I saw it, it was very much out of Repair.
I must here add, the antient and noble Houses of
Seton
and
Winton,
both Palaces (for so they deserve to be called) of the late Earl of
Winton,
who did so many weak and rash Things in the Affair of the late Rebellion. They are now in a State of Ruin, as is the Estate on which they stand, which, for its Value, is as fine as any in
Scotland,
lying all contiguous with itself, and valued at almost 5000
l. Sterling per Annum
; but all being under Forfeiture, it was sold to the
York-Buildings
Company. The fine Gates, and Stone Wall, were demolished by the Government, after it had been made a Garison by the Highlanders, who from hence began their harebrain'd March to
England,
which Expedition ended at
Preston.
The Name
Seton
was given the Family from the Term
Set-on,
which one of the Ancestors of it used to the Soldiers he commanded, when entering upon an Engagement. They were reckoned a very gallant, as well as loyal Family; and no true
Scotsman
can well omit telling the memorable Story, That in the Year 1332. when
Edward
II. came before
Berwick,
where Sir
Alexander Seton
was then Governor, he summoned him to surrender, and threatened to hang his two Sons, whom he had among his Hostages, if he delayed. Accordingly a Gallows was erected near the Town Wall, and the young Men led forth. Tenderness for his Children began to move the Governor, when his Lady (of the Name of
Cheyne
) came and told him,
He and she were both young enough to have more Children; but if he surrendered, he could never recover his Honour.
Upon this, he refused, and the Tyrant cruelly murdered the young Gentlemen; but the Lady was rewarded with Two Sons afterwards.
The Towns upon this Coast, as I said, stand very thick; and there are two or three Articles of Trade which render them more populous, and more considerable, than they would otherwise be.
1. There are great Quantities of white Fish taken and cured all along this Coast; and I observed, that they were very well cured, merchantable, and fit for Exportation.
2. There is great Plenty of Coal in the Hills, so near the Sea, that the Carriage is easy, a great deal of which is carried to
Edinburgh,
and other Towns thereabouts.
3. They make very good Salt at almost all the Towns upon the Shore; as at
Seton, Cockenny, Prestonpans,
and several other Places. They have a very great Trade for this Salt to
Norway, Hamburgh, Bremen,
the
Baltick,
and even
Holland
; and the Number of Ships loaded with it here yearly is very considerable.
4. They take great Quantities of Oysters here also, with which they not only supply the City of
Edinburgh,
but carry abundance of them in large open Boats, called
Cobles,
as far as
Newcastle upon Tyne
; from whence they generally bring back Glass Bottles.
At several of these Villages are little Moles and Harbours, or Peers, built up at a considerable Expence, for securing the Ships that come to load Salt, and other Goods; as at
North Berwick, Aberlady, Preston, Prestonpans,
which is also noted for good Malt Liquor,
Cockenny, Port-seton,
&c.
The Country hereabouts is both pleasant and populous, and full of Gentlemens Houses; among which is
Salton,
belonging to Mr.
Fletcher.
We came next to
Musselburgh,
an antient
Burgh of Regality.
In this Town are many Hands employed in the Woollen Manufacture, especially in coarse Stuffs for the Use of the Poor; and they have continued many Years successfully this Branch of Trade without any Rival.
A little West from this lies
Fisher-raw,
so called from a very large Row of Houses mostly inhabited by Fishermen, who were formerly more numerous here than at present; for the Muscle Trade, which was of old reckoned very valuable, is now given over; and their chief Business, at present, consists in catching Cods, Haddocks, Whitings, and some few Shell-fish.
More to the South are two small Villages, called
New-bigging
and
Good-speed-all
; but they are so nearly joined to
Musselburgh
and
Fisher-raw,
that a Stranger would take them to be all one continued Town. Nevertheless, they have not had a Church since the Reformation, but are only a Part of the Parish of
Inveresk,
an adjoining Village, so called, because it stands on the River
Esk,
which, tho' it be sometimes so full of Water as to overflow its Banks, yet, being rapid, it is not made navigable.
This Village enjoys so good an Air, that the eminent Dr.
Pitcairn
called it the
Montpelier
of
Scotland.
It is very full of People, and there are several very handsome Houses and Gardens in it, which invite the Citizens of
Edinburgh
to take Lodgings here in the Summer, as the
Londoners
do at
Kensington-gravel-pits, Hampstead, Hackney,
and
High-gate.
But the Glory and Beauty of this Parish is
Pinkey,
which formerly belonged to
Seton,
Earl of
Dumfermline,
but now to the Marquis of
Tweedale,
who usually resided here before his House at
Yester
was finished; which, tho' it be the most magnificent Building, yet is not so agreeably situated as
Pinkey,
which stands near the Sea, just as we enter into
Musselburgh.
In the Court before the House is a large Stone Well, covered with an Imperial Crown of Stone, supported by Pillars of the
Ionick Order.
The great Hall on the Right, as you enter, is adorned with Views of the great Cities of
Italy
; and in a Drawing-room adjoining to it, is a Billiard-table. The great Stair-case on the Left is balustraded with Iron, and crowded with Pictures.
The first Apartment consists of a Dining-room, Drawing-room, and Bed-chamber, all very spacious, curiously wainscotted with Oak, and hung with the Seasons in Tapestry, of the small Figures, and best Sort. The Bed is of crimson Velvet in an Alcove, neatly supported with Pillars. The Chimneys are of Marble, and above that of the Dining-room is painted the finest Inside of a Church that is any-where to be seen.
The great Gallery is very long and spacious, the Ceiling whereof is full of
Latin
Inscriptions suitable to the several Paintings. Here is a Family Picture of the Lord
Seton,
with his Four Sons and Daughters, by
Hans Holbein
; Mr.
Henderson,
the Covenanter, by
Vandyke
; the whole Length of King
Charles
I. and his Chancellor, the Earl of
Dumfermline,
in his Robes, by the same Hand. The first Earl of
Tweedale,
with his Eight Sons and Seven Daughters, all in one Picture, as big as the Life, takes up almost one End of the Room. There are fine Altar-pieces, Passion-pieces, and others of that Kind, that were saved from Plunder out of Monasteries at the Reformation. Here is likewise a good Picture of the Earl of
Strafford,
and another of the Duke of
Lauderdale,
(who married his only Child to the Heir of this Family) with great Numbers of Family Pictures of the
Hays
and
Setons.
There is also well preserved the genealogical Tree of the Family, from the Year 970. to this Time;
viz.
the
Hays, Giffards,
and
Frazers.
But many of the Pictures have been of late carried to
Yester.
The Parterre behind the House is very large, and nobly adorned with Ever-greens, and on each Side of it spacious Gardens. The Whole stands in a Park above three Miles in Circumference, well planted with an incredible Number of Fir-trees, and walled round with Stone. I confess, if I had been Owner of
Pinkey,
I should hardly have built
Yester
; for
Pinkey
stands nobly, and has a commanding Prospect, not only over the adjacent Country, but also of the Coast of
Fife,
over the Sea, at nine Miles Distance: Whereas
Yester,
as I have said, lies in a Bottom, and all its Views bounded within itself.
Yester,
'tis true, is the antient Seat of the Family, whose Title to
Pinkey
is but late, and (some say) was precarious.
Near this Place was fought a Battle by
Edward Seymour,
Duke of
Somerset,
when he came to force the
Scots
into the Marriage of their young Queen
Mary
with his Nephew King
Edward
VI. which was, by-the-by, a very coarse way of Wooing. Here was a great Slaughter of the
Scots:
But tho' the
English
won the Battle, yet they lost their Prize; for the young Queen was privately embarked, carried to
France,
and afterwards married to the Dauphin, who became King
Francis
II.
The
English
call this the Battle of
Musselburgh
; but some
Scots
Gentlemen, riding out with us, to shew us the Place where the Action was begun and ended, we all agreed, that the
Scots
are in the right, who call it the Battle of
Pinkey.
I now approached the capital City of
Edinburgh
; but must say a Word or two of its Situation, before I enter it. Standing then at a small Distance, and taking a View of it from the East, you have really but a very confused Idea of the City, because the Situation being in Length from East to West, and the Breadth ill-proportioned to it, you view it under the greatest Disadvantage possible; whereas, if you turn a little to the Right-hand towards
Leith,
you have a very handsome Prospect of it; and from the South you see it to yet more Advantage, because it is increased on that Side with new Streets.
At the Extremity of the East-end of the City stands the Palace of
Holy-rood-house
; leaving which, a little to the Left, you come thro' a populous Suburb to the Entrance, called the
Water-port.
From hence, turning West, the Street goes on in a strait Line, thro' the whole City to the Castle. It is above a Mile in Length, and is, perhaps, the largest, longest, and finest Street, for Buildings, and Number of Inhabitants, in the World.
From the Palace Door, which stands on a Level with the lowest of the plain Country, the Street begins to ascend very gradually, being no-where steep; but this Ascent being continued for so long a Way, it is easy to understand, that the further Part must necessarily be very high; for the Castle, which stands, as it were, at the Extremity West, as the Palace does East, makes, on all the three Sides, (that only excepted, which joins it to the City) a frightful and impassable Precipice.
Together with this continued Ascent, you are to suppose the Edge or Top of the Ascent so narrow, that the Street, and the Row of Houses on each Side, take up the whole Breadth; so that which way soever you turn, you go down Hill immediately; which is so steep, that it is very troublesome to those who have not very good Lungs, to walk in those Side-lanes, which they call
Wynds.
By this Description you will perceive, that the City stands upon the narrow Ridge of a long ascending Mountain.
On the North-side of the City, towards the West-end of it, where the Castle stands, is a Lough, or Lake of Water; which has a small Brook that runs thro' it, so that it cannot be said to be quite standing. There was formerly another Lake on the South-side of it, which, being now filled up, is built into a Street, tho' so much lower than the high Street, that, as I said before, the Lanes between them are very steep.
The Town is so antient, that no History has recorded when, by whom, or on what Occasion, it was built; yet, it seems most natural to conclude, that such a Situation could not be chosen, but for a Retreat from the Outrages and Attempts of the
Britons, Saxons, Danes,
or other Enemies; for having an impregnable Castle at the West-end, and a Lake on either Side, the Inhabitants had nothing to defend but the Entrance at the East-end, which it was easy to fortify.
If this was not the Reason for chusing the Situation, what should have hindered them from building the City in a pleasant, delightful Valley, with the Sea flowing up to one Side, and a River running thro' the Middle of it? such as that Space of Ground between it and the Sea, where the Town of
Leith
stands. There they would have had a noble, pleasant, and most useful Situation, a very fine Harbour for their Trade, a good Road in the
Firth
for their Ships of Burden; a pleasant River, which, with small Art and Charge, might have been so drawn round the City as to have filled its Ditches, and made its Fortifications almost impregnable, as the
French
did, when they fortified
Leith.
Or had they gone to the South-side of the City, and extended it towards
Libertoun
and
Goodtrees,
they had found a Plain large enough to have contained another
London,
watered on the South-part with a pleasant Brook, capable, by the Help of Pipes, to have conveyed Water into every Street and House.
These Things they did not foresee, or not understand in those Days; but, regarding immediate Safety, fixed on the Hill, as a sure Strength, formed by Nature, ready at their Hand. By this means, the City lies under such Inconveniencies as are made a Subject of Scorn and Reproach by some, as if the People delighted in Stench and Nastiness; whereas, were any other People to live under the same Unhappiness of a rocky and mountainous Situation, a Throng of Buildings from six to ten Stories high, a Difficulty of obtaining Water, (that little they have being to be carried up to the uppermost Apartments) we should find a
London
or a
Bristol
as dirty as
Edinburgh,
and, perhaps, less able to make their Dwelling tolerable, at least in so narrow a Compass; for tho' many Cities have more People in them, yet, I believe, there is none in the World, where so many People live in so little Room.
On the North-side of the City, as I have said, is a spacious, rich, and pleasant Plain, extending from the Lake, which joins it, to the River of
Leith,
at the Mouth of which is the Town of
Leith,
at the Distance of a long
Scots
Mile. Here, were not the North-side of the Hill which the City stands on, so exceeding steep, that it is not only impassable for Carriages, but can hardly be clambered up on Foot, and were the Lake filled up, as that on the other Side is, the City might have been extended upon the Plain below, and fine Streets would, no doubt, have been built: Nay, I question much, whether, in time, the high Streets would not have been forsaken, and the City, as I may say, run all out of its Gates to the North.
This might have been the Consequence, if the City had been in a State of Increase; for had their Trade flourished, as was reasonably expected, if the Business of
Darien
had succeeded, or upon the Union, the Inhabitants would have likewise increased.
Having thus considered the City in its outward Appearance, and in its Situation, I must look next into its Inside, where we shall find it (notwithstanding all its Discouragements and Disadvantages) a large, populous, noble, rich, and even Royal City. The main Street, as above, is the most spacious and best inhabited in
Europe.
The Buildings are surprising for their Strength, their Beauty, and their Height, and are mostly of Free-stone; yet so firm, that tho' they stand so high, and in a Country where Storms and violent Winds are so frequent, 'tis very rare, and only on such Occasions as I shall mention by-and-by, that any Damage is done here.
From the Palace-gate Westward, this Street is called the
Canongate,
as belonging to the Canons of the Abbey, which is a kind of Suburb by itself, as
Southwark
is to
London.
In this Part of the Street, tho' otherwise not so well inhabited as the City itself, are several very magnificent Houses of the Nobility, built for their Residence when the Court was here. Of these the Duke of
Queensbury
's, the Earl of
Winton
's, the Duke of
Roxburgh
's, the Earl of
Panmure
's, and the Earl of
Murray
's, are the chief: The first and last are very large and princely Buildings, all of Free-stone, large in Front, and have good Gardens behind them.
At the Upper or West-end of this Street, where it joins to the City, is a Gate, which, like
Ludgate,
parts the City from the Suburb, but does not discontinue the Street, which rather widens, and is more spacious, when you are thro' the Gate, than before. This is the famous
Nether-bow Port,
whose Doors were like to have been taken away by the Parliament, when the Affair of Captain
Porteous
was under their Consideration, as I shall mention more particularly by-and-by.
Just at this Gate, on the Outside, are two Streets, one of which is called
St. Mary Wynd,
and the other
Leith Wynd
; the first leads out of the City, South, into the great Road for
England,
by the Way of
Kelso
; and at the Foot of it is a Gate turning Westward into the low Street, called the
Cowgate,
because the Cattle are driven thro' it to and from the great Market-place: The other leads North into a Suburb, called the
Calton,
from whence there is a very handsome Gravel-walk, 20 Feet broad, continued to the Town of
Leith,
which is kept in Repair at the publick Charge, and no Horses suffered to come upon it.
We now enter the City at the
Nether-bow Port,
and have an open View up the high Street. It must not be expected I should describe all the Buildings of the City; I shall therefore touch upon some few, and go on. The first of any Note is a fine House on the South-side of the Street, a little within the Gate, belonging to the Marquis of
Tweedale,
with a Plantation of Lime-trees behind it, the Place not allowing Room for a large Garden: Adjoining to this are very good Buildings, which, if set out in handsome Streets, would adorn a very noble City; but being crouded together in narrow Wynds and Alleys, deserve no Notice.
A little further, on the same Side, is the
Trone
Kirk; and near it, in the Middle of the Street, stands the Guard-house, where two Companies of disciplined Men, cloathed and armed like Grenadiers at the Charge of the Town, do Duty every Night, and keep the publick Peace of the City.
About Mid-way between the
Nether-bow
and the Castle, is the great Church, which, before the Reformation, was Collegiate, and dedicated to
St. Gyles
; but it was afterwards divided into several Preaching-places, and Districts of the City were allotted to them, so as to be parochial. When King
Charles
I. erected a new Bishoprick at
Edinburgh,
which before that time was in the Diocese of
St. Andrews,
it was made a Cathedral, and the Dean was Forenoon Minister of that Part of it, called the
New Kirk,
which is the Choir, Chancel, or Eastern Part. In it is a noble Gallery for the King, or his Commissioner. Here also the Magistrates assemble, and the Judges in their Habits, in time of Session. In a large Chapel, on the South-west Part of this Church, the General Assembly hold their Sessions, as does also the Commission of the Assembly, in the Interval between the General Meetings.
The great Cross under the Tower is called the
Old Kirk
; and the Front or West-part of the great Church is divided into two Parts: That on the South is called the
Tolbooth Kirk,
and that on the North
Haddo's Hole,
from the Laird of
Haddo,
(Grandfather to the present Earl of
Aberdeen
) who being a great Royalist and Anti-covenanter, was kept Prisoner in a Vault there, till he was beheaded.
The Steeple in the Middle is very high, and of good Architecture; the Summit of it resembles an Imperial Crown. Here they have a Set of Bells, which are not rung out as in
England,
(for that way of Ringing is not known in this Country) but are played upon by the Hand with Keys, like a Harpsichord, the Person playing having great Leather Covers to his Fists, by which he is able to strike with the more Force. They play all manner of Tunes very musically, and the Town gives a Man a yearly Salary for playing upon them from half an Hour after Eleven, till half an Hour after Twelve, every Day,
Sundays
and
Holidays
excepted.
On the South-side of this Church (formerly the Church-yard) is a Square of very fine Buildings, called the
Parliament Close,
the West and South-sides of which are mostly taken up with the Parliament-house, the several Courts of Justice, the Council-chamber, the Exchequer, the publick Registers, the Court for the Royal Boroughs to assemble in, the Lawyers Library, the Post Office,
&c.
The great Church makes up the North-side of the Square, and the East and Part of the South-side is built into private Dwellings very stately, lofty, and strong, being seven Stories high to the Front of the Square, and the Hill they stand on having a very steep Descent, some of them are no less than fourteen Stories high backwards. In the middle of this Square is an Equestrian Statue of King
Charles
II. which is reckoned the finest of its kind in
Europe.
The Parliament-house is a stately, convenient, and large Structure. Over its Entrance are the Arms of
Scotland
well cut, with
Mercy
and
Truth
on each Side, for Supporters; and this Inscription,
Stant his felicia regna
; importing, that these Virtues make Kingdoms happy. And under the Arms was this Motto,
Unio Unionum
; relating not only to the Union of the two Crowns, but signifying, that their Advice was necessary for the Maintenance of it. The Room for meeting of the Parliament had, on that Occasion, a high Throne for the Sovereign, or the Commissioner, with Benches on each Side for the Nobility and Bishops, and Forms conveniently placed in the Middle, for the Commoners. Without the Area was a Pulpit for Sermons to the Parliament, on particular Occasions; and behind the Pulpit a large Partition for others, besides Members, to hear the Sermons, and Debates of the House, when they thought fit to allow it. This Building, in some measure, resembles
Westminster-hall,
and tho' not quite so large, has a much more curious Roof. In the South or Upper-end, one of the ordinary Judges sits every Week in Session-time, to hear Causes in the first Instance: But when the Parliament sat, that Court was removed to another Part of the Hall. At the West-end of it are kept the Sheriff and Commissary Courts. Near the North-end is the Town Council-house or
Guild-hall,
and over it is the Justciary or Criminal Court. At the South-east Part of the Parliament-house, is a Door from what they call the
Outer-house
(where the Lord Ordinary sits) into the
Inner,
where sit the other Fourteen Judges, or Lords of Session; which is the supreme Civil Judicature of
Scotland.
Over which are Apartments for the Lords of Exchequer, and for the Privy-council when in Being.
In the Lower-part under the Parliament-house, is a noble Library of Books and MSS. belonging to the College of Justice, or Gentlemen of the Law.
Near the Council-chamber stands the Royal Exchange, made up of a double Row of Shops, and another Exchange inferior to this.
The great Opening into the high Street, being the only Passage into it for Coaches, is at the North-east Corner, a little from which is the Market-cross, where all their Proclamations and publick Acts are read and published by Heralds and Sound of Trumpet. Here is the great Parade, where Gentlemen meet for Business or News, as at the Exchange, every Day from Eleven to One.
Near the West-end of the great Church stands the
Tolbooth,
or common Prison, as well for Criminals as for Debtors. It was formerly the Place of Residence for the Provost of
St. Gyles's,
as most of the adjacent Houses were for the Canons and Choiristers of that Church.
The great Church and this Prison both standing in the middle of the Street, the Breadth and Beauty of it is for some Space interrupted; but those Buildings past, the Street opens again to its former Breadth, and is now called the
Lawn-market,
from the
Linen-market
being kept here. This Part of the Street extends West to a narrower one, which leads to the
Castle-hill.
At the Upper-end of it is a Stone Building appropriated to several publick Offices of lesser Value, called the
Weigh-house
; for below Stairs are Ware-houses, with publick Weights and Scales for weighing heavy Goods.
Here the high Street parts into two, one of which leads to the Castle Hill, as already noticed, and the other turns South-west, and descending gradually, leads to the
Grass-market,
a Place very like
Smithfield
in every respect, where is kept a weekly Market for Black Cattle, Sheep, Horses,
&c.
This Street, which is called the
West-bow,
is inhabited mostly by wholesale Dealers in Iron, Pitch, Tar, Oil, Hemp, Flax, Linseed, Drugs, Woads, and such-like heavy Goods.
This City hath seven Gates, or Ports, as they are here called,
viz.
1. The
Nether-bow Port:
This is the chief Gate; it was magnificently built in 1606. and adorn'd with Towers on both Sides. This is the Entrance from the Palace, and the principal Suburb called the
Canon-gate.
2. The
Cow-gate Port,
at the East-end, likewise gives Entrance to the Street of that Name, leading to the Abbey by a Backway.
3. The
Potter-row Port,
gives Entrance to the Suburb so called, and leads to
Dalkeith, Kelso,
&c. Southward.
4. The
Society Port,
called so from the Society of Brewers, who have a great square Court near it, with stately Houses and Buildings round it.
5. The
West Port,
the only Gate at the West-end of the City, which leads thro' a large Suburb to
Glasgow, Sterling, Queens-ferry,
and from thence to the West and North Highlands.
6. The
New Port,
at the East-end of the Lake, leading Northward towards a Village called
Mouter's Hill
and
Leith.
7. The
College-Kirk Port,
leading also to
Leith.
The Markets here are very well supplied with all the Necessaries of Life, and are mostly kept in distinct Market-places walled in, and reserved for the particular Things they are appointed for; such as
1. The Meal Market.
2. The Flesh Market.
3. The Poultry Market.
4. The Fish Market.
5. The Corn Market.
6. The Leather Market.
Besides these, there is a Weekly Market for all Sorts of Woollen Manufactures, and Linen Cloth, kept in that Part of the high Street called the
Lawn Market,
just now mentioned. There is also in the same Street, below the Cross, an Herb and Fruit Market kept every Morning, but abates before Noon, so that it is no Incumbrance. The Market for Black Cattle, Sheep, Horses, and Grass, is kept in that large Space of Ground within the
West Port,
called the
Grass Market,
as I have already mentioned.
On the South-side of the City, towards the East-end, stands a large Building, erected at the Charge of the Surgeons and Apothecaries of this City, in which is their great Hall, hung round with the Pictures of all the Surgeons of this Place that have been since this Building was founded. Here they have also a Theatre for Dissections, and a Chamber of Rarities, in which there are several Skeletons of uncommon Creatures, a Mummy, and other Curiosities.
Near the
Potter-row Port
stands the College, or University. It consists of three Courts, two lower, and one higher, equal to the other two. These Courts are encompassed with neat Buildings for the Use of such Students as please to lodge in them; for they don't live in common, nor are they obliged to reside, but only to attend their Classes at certain Hours. There is a high Tower over the great Gate, looking to the City.
The
Publick Schools
are large and commodious; there are Accommodations for Students, handsome Dwellings for the Professors, and fine Gardens for their Recreation. It was founded in 1580. by King
James
VI. upon a Petition from the City, to grant them a Charter with the Privilege of an University; but the Foundation was not perfected till 1582. The Persons established by the Foundation were, a Principal or Primate, a Professor of Divinity, four Regents or Masters of Philosophy, and a Professor of Philology called
Prof. Humaniorum Literarum,
or Regent of Humanity. In 1640. the Town added a Professor of Mathematicks. To which have been lately added Professors of Ecclesiastical History, Civil Law, Theoretical and Practical Medicine, Chymistry,
&c.
The Dignity of Chancellor and Vice-chancellor of the University is in the Lord-Provost and Town Council.
They have a very good Library, which was founded by
Clement Little,
one of the Commissaries of
Edinburgh
; since which it is much increased by Donations from the Citizens, Persons of Quality, and others, who had their Education there. The Library is neatly kept, well furnished with Books, put in very good Order, cloister'd with Wire Doors, which none but the Keeper can open, which is more commodious, and less encumbering, than Multitudes of Chains, commonly used in other Libraries. The Books given by the grand Benefactors, are kept in distinct Apartments, and the Donor's Name over them in Letters of Gold.
Over the Books hang the Pictures of several Princes, and of the most eminent Reformers at Home and Abroad; and near them is kept the Skull of the famous
Buchanan,
very intire, and so thin, that the Light may be seen thro' it. It was deposited there by Mr.
Adamson,
formerly Principal of the University, who procured it to be taken out of his Grave, and fastened some
Latin
Verses to it in Commendation of that celebrated Historian. There is also the Original of the
Bohemian
Protest against the Council of
Constance,
for burning
John Hus
and
Jerom
of
Prague, Anno
1417. with 105 Seals of
Bohemian
and
Moravian
Grandees annexed to it. It was procured by a
Scots
Gentleman in his Travels, and given to the University.
Under the Library was the King's Printing-house, for Bibles,
&c.
At the farther End of the Library is a Stair-case, which leads to the higher and lower Common Halls, where they hold their Commencements and College Entertainmenrs. In this Place are several Maps, Globes, Books, and Rarities; and among others a crooked Horn, cut out of a Woman's Head when fifty Years old, and who lived twelve Years after it. It is several Inches long, and was taken out of her Head by a Surgeon,
Anno
1671. Here also are Lectures read, Exercises performed, and Apartments for the Professor of Divinity to teach his Pupils in, and for a select Library proper for Divines.
In this higher Common Hall, which is a very spacious Room, are placed such Books as have been bought by, or given to the College, since the Library below was full; and in the South-end of it is a curious and noble Museum, collected by the very eminent Sir
Andrew Balfour,
who was once Tutor to the famous Earl of
Rochester.
It contains a vast Treasure of Curiosities of Art and Nature, domestick and foreign, from almost all Parts of the World, and is greatly valued by the Virtuoso's, containing some Rarities that are not to be found, either in those of the
Royal Society
at
London,
or the
Ashmolean
at
Oxford.
Sir
Robert Sibbald,
having a mind to engraft his Name and Merit, on that of the celebrated
Balfour,
made a Present of a great Number of Shells, and other Curiosities, to the College, on Condition the Magistrates would print the Account of it, called,
Auctarium Musei Balfouriani e Museo Sibbaldiano
; to which I refer the Reader.
Eastward from the College is the High-School, well endow'd, and with proper Apartments for one Master and four Ushers, who teach Youth Grammar and Rhetorick.
In
Gray's-close,
near the
Cowgate Port,
is the Mint-house, in a large Court, with neat and convenient Buildings, and other Accommodations for the Master, Officers, and Workmen. It is now disused for that Purpose; and is a Sanctuary, or Place of Privilege.
At a small Distance from the College are two neat Hospitals, with pretty Gardens to each of them; and a little further is the Church-yard of the
Franciscans,
or
Gr
y-friars,
the common Burial-place for the whole City within the Walls, where are a great many fine and curious Monuments. It contains about two Acres of Ground.
Adjoining to it is
Heriot's Hospital,
a large and stately Building, the most magnificent of its Kind in the World, adorned with a consecrated Chapel, large Walks, delightful Greens, and pleasant Gardens. It was built by the Rev. Dr.
Balcanqual,
to whom
George Heriot,
Jeweller to King
James
VI. left near 17000 Pounds, to be disposed of in pious Uses, which that worthy Dean did by building and endowing this House, and giving Statutes to it, which he ordered should be
unalterable.
'Tis a Nursery for an indefinite Number of the Sons of Freemen, who are maintained, cloathed, and educated in useful Learning, till they are fit for Apprenticeships, or to go to the University, where they are allowed handsome Salaries and Exhibitions.
On the South-side of the City, in the way to
Leith,
is a beautiful Collegiate Church, built by Queen
Mary
of
Guelders,
Queen to King
James
II. and dedicated to the
Holy Trinity,
but now Parochial, tho' nothing but the Church Part was ever finished.
Near it is
St. Thomas's Hospital
; wherein old decayed Citizens, and their Widows, are very decently provided for, and allowed a Chaplain.
Over-against it is
Bridewell,
or the House of Correction, in which dissolute People undergo Discipline, and are kept to hard Labour. There is an Apartment in it for lunatick and distracted Persons.
Of late Years, Mrs.
Hare
left a noble Benefaction for a new Hospital for Female Orphans of decay'd Freemen; which created a laudable Emulation in many others, whose united Contributions have raised another, for the same good Purpose.
An Infirmary, called the
Royal Infirmary,
after the Example of those at
London, Winchester,
&c. has been lately erected at
Edinburgh,
by the liberal Contribution of many well-disposed Persons; and there was so general a Good-will to the Work, that the like Spirit has hardly ever been known any-where. The Proprietors of several Stone-Quarries made Presents of Stone to it, others of Lime. Merchants contributed Timber. The Wrights and Masons were not wanting in their Contributions: The neighbouring Farmers agreed to carry Materials
gratis:
The Journeymen Masons contributed their Labour for a certain Quantity of hewn Stones; and as this Undertaking is for the Relief of the diseased, lame, and maimed Poor, even the Day-labourers would not be exempted, but conditioned to work a Day in a Month
gratis
to the Erection. The Ladies too contributed in their own way to it; for they appointed an Assembly for the Benefit of the Work; and it being well-attended, every one contributed bountifully to it. It has met with no small Encouragement from the Nobility and Gentry; and his Majesty was pleased to give 100
l.
towards it: So that it is really a noble Work, and is now in a flourishing Condition. The following is the Inscription on the first Stone:
The Royal Infirmary at
Edinburgh,
Founded
Aug. 2. 1738.
Earl
Cromarty,
G. M.
Another necessary Charity was setting on foot, as a Correspondent writes me word, in a Letter dated
Edinburgh, July
24. 1740. and it is to be hoped will be attended with the desired Success. The following is an Abstract of the Letter:
"Amongst the several pious and commendable Designs which have of late Years been form'd for the Relief of the Helpless and Forlorn, Pity it
, that one Case, as claimant as any,
viz.
the INCURABLES, has hitherto escaped publick No
: Th
se poor Creatures have, in common with the others above-mention'd, every thing that can move Sympathy, being equally destitute of Health, Subsistence, and Care, but with this one distinguishing Aggravation of their Calamity, that they are
without Hope,
which is the finishing Stroke of Distress, and changes Misfortune into Misery. When the Learned in Physick and Surgery have pronounced their Diseases
desperate
and
irremediable,
and when upon that Account they have been
set out
of the
Infirmary,
or
refused Admittance into it,
as being without Compass of the Power of Medicine, or Skill of the Physician to recover them, many of them have no Houses of their own, where they may languish out the tedious Remains of a comfortless Life; so that if they do not soon die in the
Streets
or
Fields,
they must wander to Places where they can have neither
Ministers
nor
Physicians
to bring them that Assistance, and those
Softenings,
which may make unavoidable Death more easy and happy to them.
"The Consideration of this moving Case being suggested at a late Meeting of some Persons in
Edinburgh,
they (touch'd with Compassion of their Fellow-Creatures in such dismal Circumstances, and thankful for the Goodness of God to themselves, in preserving them from such Distress) judged it worthy of Attention, and propos'd to raise by Subscription a Fund for this charitable Use, to be under the Guardianship and Administration of the Governors of the
Orphan-Hospital
at
Edinburgh.
"
What will be done in this Case, I cannot judge; but my Friend has set it forth with so much honest Warmth, and good Sense, that nothing need be added to it, to shew the Necessity of so excellent a Design.
The Physicians were incorporated in 1682. by King
Charles
II. and have their College near the
Nether-bow
in the
Fountain-close.
They are deservedly esteemed learned and able, and give not place to the Physicians of any Country. The late Dr.
Pitcairn
has left behind him ample Testimonies of his Skill in Nature and Medicine, and bore a Character that no Man of his Time, abroad or at home, eclipsed.
On the North-side of the City is an excellent Physick-garden, containing some thousands of Exotick Plants and Simples. The late learned and industrious Mr.
James Sutherland,
its then Intendant, published an Account of it in 1684. under the Title of
Hortus Medicus Edinburgensis.
They are all disposed into the most rational Method, according to that of the learned Dr.
Morison,
the late
Oxford
Botanist, a Native of
Scotland.
The City is govern'd by a Lord-Provost, whose Office is much the same as that of the Lord Mayor of
London
; four Bailiffs, who, besides the Power of Aldermen in the Government of this City, have that of Sheriffs, and a common Council, ordinarily consisting of twenty-five Persons, but extraordinarily of thirty-eight. All these are chosen annually; and the Provost, Dean of Guild, and Treasurer, are to be Merchants; or if any Tradesman be chosen, he must quit his Trade, and not return to it without Leave of the Magistrates and Town-Council; and he must also be a Year or two a Member of the common Council. No one is to continue in the Council above two Years at a time, except he be a Member of it by virtue of a superior Office. The Bailiffs are to be chosen indifferently out of twelve Candidates proposed, and none is to be elected Deacon of any of the fourteen incorporated Trades, except he has been Master of his Trade two Years at least; and must not continue Deacon above two Years at a time. The fourteen incorporated Trades are;
Chirurgeons.
Goldsmiths.
Skinners.
Farriers.
Hammermen.
Wrights.
Masons.
Taylors.
Bakers.
Butchers.
Cordwainers.
Weavers.
Wakers,
i. e.
Fullers.
Bonnet-makers.
The Magistrates are chosen annually upon the
Tuesday
next after
Michaelmas-day,
by thirty-eight Electors, whereof twenty are to be Merchants and Tradesmen, who are to chuse such as in their Conscience they think best qualify'd; and these Magistrates, and the Town-Council, have the Administration of the Government, except in some reserved Cases; as the Election of Magistrates, Dean of Guild and Treasurer, and setting of Fews or Leases, giving Boundaries and Places, and other publick Matters; in which Cases they are to consult the fourteen Deacons of Trades.
None of the Merchants or Traders are to have any particular Conventions, or make any By-laws among themselves without Consent of the Magistrates and Town-Council, except to chuse their own Deacons at the appointed Time, to make Persons free of their Trade, or to try their Work; and one of the Commissioners for Parliament was always to be chosen out of the Tradesmen, and another out of the Merchants. The Auditors of Accounts are to be chosen out of an equal Number of both. The Lord-Provost, Dean of Guild, and Treasurer, are not to continue longer than two Years at a time; and the Bailiff must be one Year a Bailiff, one Year old Bailiff, and one Year free of Office. Before the Union, the Lord-Provost for the Time being was always one of the Privy Council.
The Trained Bands of the City consist of sixteen Companies; besides which they have a standing Company of Town Guards.
And here it will be proper to take notice of the notorious Riot committed in this City on the 7th of
Sept.
1736. in relation to Capt.
Porteous,
which made so much Noise, and brought down upon this famous City the Resentment of the Legislature of
Great Britain.
The Case was this: One
Andrew Wilson
was condemned for a Robbery of the publick Money, committed on the Highway; and on
Wednesday,
the 14th of
April
1736. the Day appointed for his Execution, the Magistrates, being apprehensive that a Rescue would be attempted, ordered Capt.
John Porteous,
at the Head of a Detachment of the City Guard, to attend the Execution; and Powder and Ball were delivered to them for that Purpose. That while
Wilson
was hanging, the Populace, insisting he should be cut down before the usual Time, and being refused, attempted to do it by Force, and meeting Opposition from the Captain and his Guard, they outrageously pelted them with Stones, and hurt several of the Detachment. That hereupon the Captain order'd them, as he was accus'd, but which he deny'd, to fire; and upon the Mob continuing their Insults, and the Captain's Men firing over their Heads to intimidate them, the Captain order'd them to level their Pieces, and fired himself, both which however he deny'd; and by that means six Persons were mortally wounded, and fourteen others very desperately maimed and hurt. That hereupon the Captain was brought to his Tryal, and on a very solemn Hearing, was found guilty of firing a Gun himself, and ordering his Men to fire; and so was condemn'd to be hang'd upon a Gibbet, on the 8th of
Sept.
1736. The Captain drew up a Petition to her late Majesty, then Regent of the Kingdom, in the Absence of the King; and insisted on his Innocency, praying for Mercy; and great Application having been made to her Majesty for changing the Sentence to Transportation, a Reprieve for six Weeks, was granted. Which arriving, on the 2d of
September,
at
Edinburgh,
occasion'd the most extraordinary Riot that ever was known or heard of, all Circumstances considered, except that at
York
against the
Jews,
mentioned in its Place.
For, on the 7th of
September,
the Night before the Captain was to be executed, had he not been reprieved, about ten at Night, some Men by Surprize enter'd the City, seized all the Fire-arms, Battle-axes, and Drums belonging to the City Guard.
The Mob hereupon, in a few Minutes, lock'd and secur'd all the City Gates, and with Drums beating an Alarm, attempted with Hammers, and other Instruments, to force open the [
Tolbooth
] Prison-door: But failing, they desperately set Fire to it, and burnt it. When they entered the Prison, they made the Under-keeper open the double Locks of the Apartment where the Captain was. He begg'd in vain to be spared till the Afternoon; and making some Resistance, they dragg'd him down Stairs by his Legs, and hurried him away. This was about eleven at Night, and they march'd out with Lights before them. In their Way to the
Grass-market,
passing by a Barber's Sign-post, some called out to hang him up there; but it was resolved to hang him where the Murders, for which he was condemn'd, were committed. So they proceeded to the Place where, on Executions, the Gallows used to be fixed; where they kept him above a Quarter of an Hour, till they open'd a Shop, and brought out a Rope, one End of which they threw over a Signpost about 20 Feet high. He desir'd some Time to prepare for Death; but was answer'd, They would allow him no more than those had who were shot. They then pull'd him up in the Dress in which they found him;
viz.
a Night-gown and Cap: His Hands not being ty'd, he fix'd them betwixt his Neck and the Rope, whereupon one with a Battle-ax struck at his Hands. They then let him down, and he having on two Shirts, they wrapt one of them about his Face, and ty'd his Arms with his Night-gown, and then pull'd him up again, where he hung next Morning till Day-light; when he was cut down, and carried to the
Grey-fryars
Church. Upon inspecting his Body, it appear'd his Left-shoulder was wounded, his Back discolour'd, and his Neck broke. He deny'd his giving Orders to fire, with his last Breath.
It was observ'd, that this Mob was under a stricter Concert, and better Conduct, than usual; for, marching along to the Execution, the unhappy Man observing a Gentleman of his Acquaintance, he gave him a Purse of twenty-three Guineas, which he desir'd might be deliver'd to his Brother; which they offer'd not to obstruct. They left indeed the Prisondoors open, whereby several Prisoners escaped; but after they had perpetrated the unprecedented Fact, they left the Arms and Drums at the Place of Execution, where they were found next Morning. Moreover, during the Tumult, Parties of armed Men, with Drums, patrolled in the different Streets, to prevent any Surprize from the King's Forces quarter'd in the Suburbs. The Magistrates, attended with several of the Burgesses, attempted, as was said, to disperse the Mob; but were pelted with Stones, and threaten'd with Fire-arms, if they did not retire. After the Execution was over, they went to the Lord-Provost's House, and telling him they were satisfy'd, departed, without offering any other Violence. Nay, it was said, that to do the Act with more Decency, having no Clergyman, they order'd two of the gravest among them to exhort the unhappy Man, as they carry'd him to Execution.
The Boldness, Secrecy, and Conduct of this Enterprize, was the most extraordinary Instance of its kind that ever was known; and the Keeper declaring, that tho' the Persons who first enter'd, and demanded the Keys, wore Leather Aprons, but were otherwise well dress'd, it made some imagine, that Persons above the vulgar Rank had a hand in it.
Be this as it would, the Insult on the Sovereign Authority was too flagrant to be overlook'd. Proclamations, with Rewards of 200
l.
Sterling, were issued for apprehending the Rioters; and when the Parliament met, vigorous Measures were taken in the Affair. The Lord-Provost was order'd up to
London
in Custody, the Magistrates were order'd up also, to attend the House of Lords at
London
; and finally, an Act of Parliament was passed, to disable
Alexander Wilson,
Esq
from holding or enjoying any Office of Magistracy in
Edinburgh,
or
Great Britain
; a new Provost was injoin'd to be chosen, and a Fine of Two thousand Pounds levied upon the City of
Edinburgh
for the Use of the Widow of Captain
Porteous,
as Punishments for their respective Remissnesses in not endeavouring to prevent this Insult on Sovereignty, and all lawful Authority.
This Act, however, passed not without great Debates; and as some thought it impossible to prevent a Design so well concerted, and so suddenly and boldly executed, they were of Opinion, that the City of
Edinburgh
was treated with too much Severity. But, after all, it could not be expected, but that the Legislature should shew the highest Indignation against so insolent a Riot.
This Act was passed in the 10th Year of his Majesty, and in the same Session was also passed another, for the more effectual bringing to Justice any Persons concern'd in this strange Attempt; in which Fugitives not surrendering were made liable to Death: The concealing of those who should be declared Fugitives, was also made Death: This Act was to be read before Morning Sermon in every Church of
Scotland,
every
Sunday
for a Year: Impeachers were to be encouraged, and discharged; Informers rewarded with 200
l.
Sterling for every Person they should convict, and be admitted Witnesses.
But so secretly was this dark Affair managed, that I don't remember any body has suffer'd on the Account; and the reading of the Act was but indifferently digested by many in that Kingdom.
Greater Severity was intended; such as the imprisoning, as well as disqualifying the Lord-Provost for a Year; for abolishing the Town-Guard of the City of
Edinburgh,
and for taking away the Gates of the
Nether-bow
Port, and keeping open the same. But the City of
Edinburgh
was happily saved from this Disgrace.
It is now Time to return to our Subject.
The Churches in this populous City and Suburbs are Twelve, including the Chapel of the Castle: The Ministers about Twenty; besides Three Chapels.
The Twelve Churches are:
1. The Canon-gate Kirk.
2. The Collegiate, or College Kirk.
3. The Trone Kirk, or Christ's Kirk.
All these are Parts of the Cathedral of
St. Gyles
's.
4. The New Kirk.
5. The Old Kirk.
6. The Tolbooth Kirk.
7. Haddo's Hole Kirk.
8. The Lady
Yester
's Kirk.
9.10. The Grey-friers Kirk, now divided into two.
11. The West Kirk, or
St. Cuthbert
's.
12. The Chapel of the Castle.
There are also about twenty Meeting-houses of the Episcopal Party; for tho' Presbytery be the established Religion of
Scotland
since the Revolution, yet a great Number of the People of all Ranks are not of that Opinion, especially in the Nothern Parts.
The Churches are always very full; for the People in this Country do not wander about on the Sabbath-days, as in
England.
They have also one very good Custom as to their Behaviour in Church, which I wish was practised in
England:
If any Person comes in after Divine Service is begun, he takes no Notice of any body, nor any body of him; whereas we make our Bows and Cringes, even in the Middle of our Prayers. Not that the
Scots
want Manners; for they shew them more properly after the Sermon is done, and the Blessing given, when they all look round upon their Friends, especially to Persons of Distinction, and make their Civilities as courteously as we do.
The City is encompassed with a kind of
Roman
Wall on every Side, except the North, where it is secur'd by a Lake.
The Castle only, and the Palace, remain to be mentioned. The first is strong both by Situation and Art, but far from being impregnable, as has been experienced more than once. It was formerly called the
Maiden
Castle, because the
Pictish
Kings kept their Daughters in it. Still more antiently, it was called
Alatum Castrum,
or the
Winged Castle,
perhaps from its Form, and standing on so high a Hill, as it were in the Air: It is situated at the West-end of the City, as we have said, where the Rock rises to a high and large Summit. 'Tis inaccessible on the South, West, and North. The Entrance is from the Town, where the Rock is also very high, and is defended by a round Battery, and an Outwork at the Foot of it. In the Castle is a Royal Palace of hewn Stone, where are kept the Regalia, and chief Records of State, as also the Magazine for the Arms and Ammunition of the Nation.
A Chapel is also in it for the Use of the Garison; and it is furnished with Water by two Wells in the Rock. From the Castle is a delightful Prospect over the City and neighbouring Country, and to the River of
Forth,
from whence it is saluted by such Men of War as come to anchor in
Leith
Road. The Governor is always a Person of prime Quality, and General of the Forces.
The Governor, Lieutenant-Governor, Fort-Major, and some other Officers, have very good Apartments; and there are deep Vaults in the Rock, which, they say, are Bomb-proof.
The Palace, called
Holy-rood-house,
is a very handsome Building, rather convenient than large. The Entrance is majestick, and over the Gate is a large Apartment, which the Duke of
Hamilton
claims as Hereditary Keeper of the Palace. Within this is a large, irregular Court, where are Coach-houses and Stables, which, I think, are very improperly placed here; for if they had stood farther off, either in the Park, or without the Out-gate, and a Barrack, or Guard-house, like the Horse-Guards at
White-hall,
built in their Stead, it would have been much more becoming a Royal Palace.
This may be called the
Escurial
of
Scotland,
being both a Royal Palace, and an Abbey, founded by King
David
I. for Canons Regular of St.
Austin,
who named it
Holy-rood-house.
The Entrance from the great outer Court, already described, is adorned with Pillars of hewn Stone, under a Cupola in the Form of an Imperial Crown, balustraded on each Side a-top. The Fore-part has two Wings, on each of which are two Turrets; that towards the North was built by King
James
V. whose Name it bears in Letters of Gold, and that towards the South (as well as all the rest) by King
Charles
II. whereof Sir
William Bruce
was Architect. The inner Court is very stately, all of Free-stone well hewed, with Piazzas round it, from which there are Entries into the several Apartments, truly royal and magnificent; but above all, the Long Gallery is very remarkable, being adorned with the Pictures of all the
Scots
Kings from
Fergus
I. to
James
VII. inclusive, by masterly Hands. Those Kings that were eminent, and all the Race of
Stuarts,
are in full Length; the others are but Busto's.
You turn to the Right to the Royal Apartments, as at
St. James
's; and the Stair-case and Guard-room run exactly as there, but far more lofty and magnificent. Duke
Hamilton
's Apartment (as Hereditary Keeper) is in the double Tower to the North, and the great Council Chamber in the Tower to the South. The Earl of
Perth,
when Chancellor, in the late King
James
's Reign, converted this noble Room into a Popish Chapel, and his Apartment behind it was the Jesuits School, which being demolished by the Mob at the Revolution, has been neglected ever since. The Chimney-pieces are all of Marble, and the Apartments two Pair of Stairs for the Officers of State are very well kept, being lent to many of the Nobility, who now live in them.
Behind this Palace, the Conventual Church makes a Wing to the North, and Eastward from it is
St. Anne's-yard,
which was designed to be branched out into Gravel-walks, adorned with Statues; but the Revolution coming on, attended with a long and expensive War, and afterwards the Union with
England,
prevented its being put in Execution.
The Church is very high to the Roof, and the Pillars are as exquisite as those of
St. George
's Chapel at
Windsor.
It is an antient, very reverend, but declining Fabrick, and used only as a Burial-place for Persons of Quality. In it King
James
VI. was crowned by Bishop
Hepburn,
assisted by
John Knox,
as was King
Charles
I. by Archbishop
Spotswood.
King
James
VII. began to erect a magnificent Throne here for the Sovereign, and twelve Stalls for the twelve Knights Companions of the most noble and antient Order of St.
Andrew,
or
the Thistle,
which he had revived after a long Disuse: The finest Carvers and other Masters in
Europe
were employed in it. But at the Revolution the Rabble demolished all, and ransacking every Corner, fell upon a Vault quite built up, so as not to be known what it certainly was, in which were found the Bodies of King
James
V. and
Magdalene
of
Valois,
his first Queen, together with Lord
Darnley
's, all embalmed and preserved in Pickle; whereby the Malice of
Buchanan,
and others, to blacken Queen
Mary
's Memory, was discovered; for she gave him a Royal Funeral suitable to his high Dignity, and did not carry him by Porters privately to a common Burial-place, as that Author had asserted.
The adjoining Park is about four Miles in Circumference; but, which is very odd, there is neither Deer nor Tree in it, and, tho' it be very mountainous, affords good Pasture for Cattle. There is a very high and craggy Rock in it, near half a Mile to the Top, called
Arthur
's
Seat,
from
Arthur,
the
British
King, who, they say, used to view the adjacent Country from thence.
This Palace, or Abbey, and Park, is Sanctuary for Debtors; and no one, but by the King's Order only, can arrest any Man, who has entered his Name in an Office kept there for that Purpose.
It may not be amiss to observe, that according to several Acts of Parliament, divers great publick Works have been undertaken, and mostly brought to Perfection, for the Benefit of the City of
Edinburgh,
and Town of
Leith,
and their Vicinities, within these few Years past, by Benefit partly of the easy
Scotish
Tax of Two-pence
Scots
on every
Scots
Pint of Ale and Beer sold in the said City: And partly of the Discontinuance of what they called the
Petty-port-Customs
there; some of which Works are as follow:
The Magistrates have, at a great Expence, collected the Springs, and renew'd the Pipes which convey Water to the Town; rebuilt the Fountains in the High-street; inlarged the Harbour of
Leith,
and deepened its Chanel; have built several hundred Feet of Key there in a very sufficient manner; have built two new Churches; have paved, at a great Expence, with Causey-stone, the whole High-streets and Ways leading to their City; have made a good Highway from
Edinburgh
to
Leith
; have built a large Workhouse for the Poor, to be employed in Manufacture, and endow'd the same with 300
l. per Annum.
Also have settled Salaries on the Law Professor at
Edinburgh,
and Stipends on the Ministers of the two new Churches; have rebuilt the City Walls; and taken Measures for paying their old Debts, as well as those incurred on account of the Rebellion in 1715.
They further proposed also, by means of this Fund, to narrow the noxious Lake on the North-side of the City, commonly called the
North Loch,
into a Canal of running Water; to erect a Street of Communication to the Fields, on the North-side of the City; to build a proper Hall for the Court of Justiciary, and an Edifice for the publick Records; to establish a Salary to a Professor of Civil History, and
Greek
and
Roman
Antiquities; another to a Professor of
Scots
Law, and other publick-spirited Purposes. And all this is provided for and established by an Act, which passed 9
George
I.
Anno
1722. confirming and continuing a
Scotish
Act of Parliament 1693. and an Act of 3
George
I. to which Act of 9
George
I. we refer the Reader.
I shall just stop to mention an odd Circumstance that was of fatal Consequence to the poor Dogs about
Edinburgh
and
Leith,
in the Month of
April
1738. A mad Bull-bitch having bitten many Dogs in the
Flesh-market,
to prevent the bad Consequences that might follow, the Magistrates of
Edinburgh
issued a Proclamation, ordering all the Dogs in that Incorporation to be forthwith put to Death, under Penalty of 5
l.
Sterling, and Imprisonment to the Owners, for twelve Calendar Months; and to prohibit all Persons from keeping Dogs for thirty Days from that Time: And the Magistrates of
Leith
joining in the Order, nothing was to be seen for several Days, but chasing, hacking, slashing, hanging, and drowning of Dogs; and great Lamentations were heard from divers, for the Loss of their favourite Puppies; for with such Zeal was this Order executed, that the Ladies had enough to do to preserve any of their Lap-dogs; and, as it was, many Gentlemen got rid by it of formidable Rivals.
I shall also take notice here of the Mischiefs done by a terrible Storm, which happen'd
Jan.
14. 1739. in this City, and the adjacent Parts, of the like of which we have hardly any Example. The Wind began to blow pretty hard between Eleven and Twelve the preceding Night, and before One it rose to a complete Hurricane, and continued with surprising Fury till Four in the Morning.
As the Houses in
Edinburgh
are built high, they suffered considerable Damage. The Leads which cover'd the stately Building in the
Parliament-Close,
were carried off the Roofs, some of them more than forty Feet in Dimensions. The
Canon-gate
Church suffered exceedingly, and the fine Portico there was almost demolish'd. The Consternation was heighten'd by the Alarm of the Fire-Drum; for the Brewery at the East-end of the Meadow, belonging to one Mr.
Bryson,
taking Fire, the Wind increased the Flame, insomuch that the Water-works proved so many useless Machines; so that the Brewery and House were consumed, and some low Houses at a considerable Distance catching the Flame, were likewise reduced to Ashes. Nor was the Fire confined to that Quarter; for, near the
Canon-mills,
on the opposite Part of the Town, a Farm-house, belonging to one Mrs.
Angus,
likewise took Fire, which consum'd it together with the Corn-stacks and Outhouses. These Fires happen'd not thro' any Negligence, but were intirely occasion'd by the Impetuosity of the Wind, which having got Entrance to the Houses, scatter'd the Fire, and set it in a Glow. A large new House at the Back of the
Canon-gate,
consisting of five Stories, was intirely beaten down. This was the more remarkable, as it had been twice destroy'd before; and the Owner had built it so strongly, that she promis'd herself Security against any Accidents of that kind. The Buildings in the Castle were prodigiously damaged; their fine Lead Coverings were carried off, and thrown upon the Rocks; the Magazine was almost demolish'd, and other considerable Damages done. The Houses at the
Multries-hill,
which lay much exposed, were almost all unroofed, and the new Play-house was quite uncover'd.
This violent Tempest confined not itself to this City: At
Leith
it produced likewise very dismal Effects; several Houses were damaged, and the End of one struck down; the Lead-mill was uncover'd; several of the Ships in the Harbour broke loose, and with such Violence, that they carried along with them the great Iron Rings to which they were fasten'd.
The Shire of
Aire
produced no less dismal Accounts; at
Irvine
it blew so hard, that many of the Ships suffer'd much, and many of the Buildings in the Town were thrown down. At
Aire
the Loss was much greater; a general Havock was made among the Houses and Shipping, most of which suffer'd; and the
Anne
Galley, bound for
Jamaica,
drove on Shore, and was dash'd to Pieces; but the Crew were happily saved.
The like dismal Account they gave from the
Merse,
where the Storm occasion'd a terrible Destruction, few Houses being left undestroy'd, and several Churches blown down, and Numbers smothered in the Ruins, and a general Havock made among the Sheep and Cattle.
This Storm did very great Damage in other Parts of the Island, in
South
as well as
North Britain
; but the Effects of it at
Edinburgh
were so terribly remarkable, that we thought the above Particulars would not be amiss to insert here.
Now we are on the Subject of melancholy Accidents, the Reader will excuse me for the following Account of a very deplorable one, which happen'd at
Kirkaldy, Jan.
7. 1739-40.
It is a well-known Custom, that in these Parts, the first
Monday
of the Year is always observed with uncommon Gaiety and Mirth, and in Consequence becomes a Holy-day to Apprentices and Servants, fourteen of which, belonging to
Path-head,
a little Village adjacent to
Kirkaldy,
having got a little Money, went to divert themselves with a common Amusement among Boys, by throwing up
Thistles or Crowns:
The Place they chose was a Cave, or a large Hollow below a rocky Eminence. As they were thus innocently amusing themselves, the Rock tumbled down, and crush'd them to-pieces. 'Tis scarce possible to form an Idea of the ghastly Sight which their mangled Bodies exhibited. Parents could not distinguish the Corpses of their own Children. The Parts of some who were close together when the Rock fell, were so mingled, that there was no Distinction; and the Carnage was the most dismal that could be imagined. One escap'd by his being at a greater Distance from the Rock; but his Leg was broke in a vast Number of Places. This fatal Catastrophe caused an extraordinary Grief, especially as some Parents lost two, others all their Children.
The following odd Accident happen'd at
Edinburgh,
in
September
1740. A Soldier belonging to the Regiment in the
Canon-gate,
went to the King's Park on a Sheep-stealing Expedition, where he unluckily happen'd to engage with a large headstrong Ram, near one of the Precipices at
Arthur
's
Seat,
mention'd above, which push'd him headlong from the Top of the Rock, so that they both fell down together, and had their Necks broken. The unhappy Fellow was found next Morning with a Handful of the Ram's Wool clench'd in his Fist.
We next visited
Leith,
the Sea-port of
Edinburgh,
which is a large and populous Town, or rather two Towns; for the River or Harbour parts them: but they are joined by a stately Stone-bridge, to which Ships of Burden may come, and, at High-water, lay their Sides close to the Shore.
Here is a very fine Quay, well wharfed up with Stone, and fenced with Piles, able to discharge much more Business than the Place can supply, tho' the Trade is far from being inconsiderable. At the Mouth of the Harbour is a very long and well-built Pier, or Head, which runs out beyond the Land a great way, and defends the Entrance into the Harbour from being filled up with Sand, as it would otherwise be, when the Wind blows hard at North-east. There are also Ranges of Piles, or Break-waters, as the Seamen call them, on the other Side of the Harbour, all which are kept in good Repair; and by this means the Harbour is preserved, and kept open, in spite of a flat Shore, and a large Swell of the Sea.
On the other Side of the Bridge are the Remains of a strong Castle, built by
Oliver Cromwell
to command the Port, which is not yet so far demolished, but that a little Expence would soon restore it. Here the late Rebel Highlanders made a bold Stop, and took Possession of it for one Night; but not finding their Friends in the City in any Condition to join them, and the Troops preparing to attack them, they quitted it in the Night, and marched off to the Earl of
Winton
's House, as I have already related.
This Town was once very strong; for the
French
held it for some Years against the Reformers, but were at last driven out by an Army which Queen
Elizabeth
sent from
England
to assist the Protestants. It is under the Jurisdiction of the Magistrates of
Edinburgh,
and is govern'd by a Bailiff under them.
At
Leith
the Firth is seven Miles over, and holds that Breadth for five or six Miles; but is narrower a little beyond
Cramond,
and at
Queen's-ferry
is reduced to two Miles in Breadth. This Place is a very good Town as well as Ferry, and a Corporation, or Royal Burgh. Near the Water of
Leith
is a good Copper Mine.
At
Cramond,
just mention'd, and in the Lands of
Inglestown,
as well as at other Places in this County,
Roman
Antiquities have been found; particularly, near the former Place were dug up two Stones, late in Sir
Robert Sibbald
's Yard at
Edinburgh,
upon one of which is a Laurel Crown, and on the other a
Roman Securis:
they are supposed to have been Part of a Pillar erected in
Domitian
's Time, when
Agricola
was in these Parts. Near this Place, in the Beginning of
December
1740. a Whale between 50 and 60 Feet in Length, and 16 in Depth, was cast on Shore; whose Mate afterwards, tumbling about above the Ferry, was heard to make a hideous Moan, as is supposed, for its Loss.
Between
Edinburgh
and this Town the Country is thronged with the Seats of Noblemen and Gentlemen; among which the Marquis of
Annandale
has a very pretty one, with a fine Garden inclosed with a Brick Wall, a thing hardly to be seen any-where else in
Scotland,
the want of which is the Reason why the Wall-fruit does not thrive so well as it would otherwise do; for the Stone does not hold the Warmth of the Sun, after it is gone, as the Bricks do.
But the Beauty of this Part of the Country is
Hopton
House, built upon a delightful Plain, on the Bank of the River. It was originally a Square, but there are two Wings lately joined to it, which add greatly to the Beauty of the Building. The Situation is so extremely good, and gives so elegant a Prospect as well to the Sea as to the Land, that nothing can be finer. It is exquisitely finished both within and without; and there are some Pieces of curious Painting in it, besides a great Number of Family Pictures. The Stables and Riding-place are by far the finest and most magnificent in
Scotland
; and his Lordship, who delights in good Horses, has the best, without Comparison, in all the Country.
Hawthornden
also is celebrated for its Caves hewn out of the Rock, and
Roslin
for a great stately Chapel.
From hence the Firth widens again, and soon after is three or four Miles wide, and makes a safe and deep Road, with good Anchor-ground, where, if there was a Trade to answer it, a thousand Sail of Ships of any Burden might safely ride.
On the South-shore, upon a narrow Point of Land running into the Water, stands
Blackness
Castle, wherein State-prisoners were confined in former Times, especially such as were taken up for religious Differences, many of whom miserably perished here, either by the Unhealthiness of the Place, Want of Conveniencies, or something worse. This Castle might be of Use, if the Harbour was frequented; but as it is not, there seems to be no Occasion for it at present.
Farther West is
Borrows-toun-ness,
a long Town, consisting only of one Street, which is extended along the Shore, close to the Water. It has been, and still is, a Town of the greatest Trade to
Holland
and
France
of any in
Scotland,
except
Leith
; but it suffers very much of late by the
Dutch
Trade being carried on so much by way of
England.
However, if the
Glasgow
Merchants would settle a Trade to
Holland
and
Hamburgh
in the Firth, by bringing their foreign Goods by Land to
Alloway,
and exporting them from thence, as they proposed some Time ago, 'tis very likely the
Borrows-toun-ness
Men would come into Business again; for as they have the most Shipping, so they are the best Seamen in the Firth, and are very good Pilots for the Coast of
Holland,
the
Baltick,
and the Coast of
Norway.
But it is time to put an End to this Letter, which I do, by assuring you, that I am, Sir,
Your most humble Servant.
LETTER III. CONTAINING A Description of the following Shires and Towns; viz.
Annan, Dumfries, Galloway, Aire, Renfrew, Glasgow, Stirling, Linlithgow, Clidsdale, Tweedale, Roxborough,
&c.
SIR,
A S I entered the East-side of
Scotland
at
Berwick upon Tweed,
and have carried on my Account through the
Lothians,
so, having travelled over the West Part at another Journey, when I went from
England
by a different Road, I shall here give you the Particulars of that also.
Passing the River
Esk,
or (as it is commonly called) the
Solway Firth,
beyond
Carlisle,
we entered
Scotland
on the Side of
Dumfriesshire.
The Division of this County into
Eskdale, Nithsdale,
and
Annandale,
is but the ordinary marking out the Rivers
Esk, Annan,
and
Nith,
as I observed of the Rivers
Teesdale, Tyndale, Swaledale,
and others, in the North of
England
; for the whole Province makes but one Shire;
viz.
that of
Dumfries.
The
Esk
is a pretty large River, and gives Name to the South-east Part of this County; but we saw very little near it, worth our Notice, except
Kirsop,
a very small Town on a River of the same Name, which afterwards falls into the
Esk,
and is famous for being the Place where, by a Treaty, after the Battle of
Pinkey,
the Limits or Borders of the two Kingdoms were settled; tho' the Borderers did not long observe it, but robbed and plundered one another upon all Occasions, as Opportunity offered.
This River soon leaves
Scotland,
and running into the
English
Border, empties itself into the
Solway
Firth, which receives all the Rivers on this Part of the Island, as well from
England
as from
Scotland.
The first Place of Note we came to in
Scotland
was
Annand,
the chief Town of
Annandale,
which, being a Sea-port, and having a good Harbour, was once a Town of pretty good Trade; but it was often taken by the
English,
who, at last, burnt it to the Ground in the Reign of King
Edward
VI. from which it never recovered. Here was a good Salmon Fishery, and a Trade to
Ireland
by the
Isle of Man
; but most of the Merchants, and Men of Substance, being removed to
Dumfries
the Town continues, to all Appearance, in a State of irrevocable Decay.
The Town and Castle of
Lockmaben
is a Royal Burgh as well as
Annand.
Three Parts of it are surrounded by Lakes, which afford excellent Fish, and one particularly which is found no-where else. The Castle, as well as that of
Annand,
is now demolished.
M
ffet
is remarkable for its medicinal Springs. They rise from the Top of a Rock near the Town: There are two Wells near one another. The Waters purge and vomit, and are very good against Colicky and Nephritical Pains, powerfully removing Obstructions in the Bowels. They are applied outwardly to Ulcers, and for Pains in the Joints. They have more Virtue in dry Seasons, and in Summer and Autumn, than in Winter and rainy Weather.
The Town of
Rivel
also deserves to be mention'd, on account of a very good Salt made out of a particular Sand there, which they gather up and boil.
From
Annand,
keeping the Sea as close as we could to the Left, we went on due West to
Dumfries,
a Sea-port Town at the Mouth of the River
Nid,
or
Nith,
which gives Name to the third Division of the County, called
Nithsdale
; but this Town is the Capital of the whole Shire, and indeed of all the South-west Part of
Scotland.
Here, as in some few other Ports on this Side of the Island, the Benefits of Commerce, obtained to this Country by the Union, appear much more visible than on the East-side.
Dumfries
was always a good Town, with large Streets, and full of reputable and wealthy Merchants, who trade into foreign Parts, and employ a considerable Number of Ships, especially since they have embarked in Trade to
England,
and the
English
Plantations. This Town is also advantageously situated for an Increase of Commerce on the River
Nid,
or
Nith
; for tho' it stands near two Leagues from the Sea, yet the Tide flows up to the Town, and Ships of Burden come close up to the Key, and about four Miles below it the largest Merchant-ships in
Britain
may ride in Safety.
Over the River
Nith,
is a very fine Stone-bridge, at this Place, with nine Arches, and so broad, that two Coaches may go abreast on it. Here they have also an Exchange for the Merchants, a handsome Church, a
Tolbooth
or Prison, and a Town-hall for the Use of the Magistrates. They had formerly a Woolen Manufacture here; but the Union has, in great measure, suppressed these Things in
Scotland,
the
English
supplying them much better and cheaper: yet, at the same time, it must be observed, that the
Scots
have more than an Equivalent by an open Trade to
England,
and all the
English
Plantations.
The Castle in this Town is very old, yet is still pretty good and strong. This Castle, as well as that at
Carlavrok,
near the Mouth of the River, which has been a very magnificent Structure, belonged formerly to the antient Family of the
Maxwells,
Earls of
Nithsdale,
the only remaining Branch of which, being unhappily embarked in the late Rebellion, and taken in Arms at
Preston,
made his Escape out of the Tower, and is now abroad, under Forfeiture.
The Inhabitants of the Town of
Dumfries
exerted themselves in a distinguishing manner for the present Establishment, in the Year 1715. fortify'd the Town at a great Expence, and provided themselves with Arms and Ammunition: This involving them in a larger Debt, an Act passed,
Anno
1716. for laying a Duty of Two Pennies
Scots
upon every
Scots
Pint of Ale or Beer sold within the Town and its Privileges, for paying the said Debts, and for building a new Church, the other being not capacious enough to hold the Inhabitants; and also to make a convenient Harbour there, for the Preservation of Ships, and Improvement of Trade.
This Act enabled them to make some Progress in the design'd Projections; but the Town having been forced to rebuild Part of their old Church, the Council-house and Prison, which were become ruinous, they were render'd unable to proceed in the most useful Parts of their Undertaking; and as the Act expired in the 10th of King
George
II. they procured the same to be continued in that Session for 25 Years longer; and also an additional Duty on the Tonnage of Shipping, and on Goods imported and exported into and out of the Port of
Dumfries:
Which they hope will enable them completely to finish all they intended.
There are many considerable Woods in this County, the chief of which is
Holy Wood,
where was an Abbey, which gave Surname to the famous Astrologer
Johannes de Sacro Bosco,
or
Holy Wood. Drumlanrick
also, the noble Palace of the Duke of
Queensberry,
is remarkable for its Wood of Oak six Miles long.
At this Town the River
Nith
parts the Stewarty of
Galloway,
and the Shire of
Dumfries
; and in the middle of the Bridge over it, is a Gate, which is the Limit between them. This Neighbourhood of
Galloway,
which is a great and rich Province, promotes the Trade of this Place very much.
In
November
1740. here was a great Struggle, in View to the Elections of Members for the succeeding Parliament, and the Town of
Dumfries
signaliz'd themselves by the following extraordinary Act; which we shall give, without making any Remarks upon it, or the Occasion of it:
"At
Dumfries, August
23. 1740. The said Day, the Deacon Convener, and Deacons of the several Corporations, having the Advice and Consent of the Grand Committee, and of the Community and whole Members of the Corporations, taking to their Consideration the Reports and Suspicions now going current upon Persons setting up for Deacons, and the offering, and giving or promising Compliments, Rewards, Gifts, Remunerations, and good Deeds by themselves, or Trustees interposed, or Persons for their Behoof, either at this present, or at a greater Distance, with Prospect and View of the Election for the five Burghs, for the Parliament of
Great Britain,
when the ensuing Session is determined; and being desirous to suppress such Methods, and any Report thereof; do, according to all Laws, Divine and Human, Equity and Reason, enact and declare, and be it enacted and declared by these Presents, That after the Date hereof, no Person or Persons, Members of the several Corporations, whether Deacon, late Deacon, Box-master, late Box-master, Masters, late Masters, or other Members who are qualified to elect, or be elected, in any Station of the Corporation, shall give, promise, offer, or accept, by himself, or any interposed Persons, Relations, or others for their Behoof, or being meaned for the Behoof of the Person, who may be thought capable to receive or give a Vote, either to put himself into any Station of his Corporation, or capaciate him to vote therein, or in Council of the Burgh, for any Person in, of the Council, or out of the Council, any Money, valuable Subject, as Remunerations, Reward and Compliment, for any good Deed or Promotion to any Station or Office whatsoever, under the Pain of such Persons, who shall be found giving or receiving, promising or accepting, as above, their being dismissed and removed from their Stations, and losing their Votes in the Corporations: Besides, if Deacon, or in order to promote themselves in that Station, to pay to the General Box-master the Sum of Thirty Pounds Sterling Money; and this to be prosecuted before the Convener and Deacons, or Civil Judge, at their Option, by the General Box-master, and the Probation be by Oath, Writ, or Witnesses, if the same can be found: And these Presents are signed by the Deacons, as instructed by their Corporations, and in their Name, Place and Day aforesaid."
We could not pass
Dumfries,
without going out of our Way to see the Castle of
Drumlanrig,
the fine Palace of the Duke of
Queensberry,
just mentioned, which stands at 12 Miles Distance, upon the same River. The Vale on either Side is pleasant, and tolerably good: But when these rapid Rivers overflow their Banks, they do not, like
Nile,
or even like the
Thames,
and other Southern Streams, fatten and enrich the Soil; but, on the contrary, they lodge so much Sand and Splinters of Stone upon the Surface of the Earth, and among the Roots of the Grass, that it spoils and beggars it; nay, the Water is sometimes hurried on with such Force, that it washes the best Part of the Earth away, where the Soil is light.
Drumlanrig
is like a fine Picture in a dirty Grotto, or an Equestrian Statue set up in a Barn. It is environed with Mountains, which have the wildest and most hideous Aspect of any in all the South Part of
Scotland.
We were not so surprised with the Height of the Mountains, and the Barrenness of the Country beyond them, as we were with the Manners of the People, who are not so polished here, as in the other Parts of
Scotland.
But what was most wonderful, was to see so glorious a Palace, with such fine Gardens, and every thing about it so truly magnificent, standing in a wild and mountainous Country, where nothing but what was desolate and dismal could be expected. However, the Situation, like that of
Chatsworth
in
Derbyshire,
is certainly a Foil to the Buildings, and sets them off with greater Advantage.
If you come to the Palace by the Road, which leads to it from
Edinburgh,
you pass the River
Nith,
which is there both broad and deep, over a stately Stone-bridge, erected by the noble Founder of the Castle, and Builder of the House, the first Duke of
Queensberry.
The Building is Four-square, with Roundels in the inner Angles of the Court, in every one of which is a Stair-case, and a kind of Tower on the Top. It stands on the Summit of a rising Ground, which is beautifully laid out in Slopes and Terraces. At the Extent of the Gardens are Pavilions and Banqueting-houses exactly answering to one another; and the Greens, Espaliers, and Hedges, are in great Perfection.
The Apartments are fine and richly furnished. The Gallery is filled from one End to the other with Family Pictures of the Duke's Ancestors, most of them at full Length, and in their Robes of State, or of Office.
William,
the first of the Family, was a younger Son of
James
Earl of
Dowglas,
who got the Barony of
Drumlanrig
by a Deed from his Father, as his Portion, in the Time of King
Robert
III. He was afterwards sent Embassador to
England
to ransom King
James
I. who was detained there. In the Year 1708. the late Duke of
Queensberry
was created Duke of
Dover,
as also Marquis of
Beverly,
and Baron of
Rippon,
in
England.
The next Trip we made was to
Galloway,
so called from the
Gauls,
from whom the antient Inhabitants descended. It is divided into two different Districts; that towards the West is called the Shire of
Wigton,
and the other towards the East, which, as I said before, begins at the middle of the Bridge of
Dumfries,
is called the Stewarty of
Kirkcudbright,
of which the
Maxwells,
Earls of
Nithsdale,
were Heretable Stewards. The Country hereabouts seems one continued Heath, proper for Grazing small Cattle, which are generally sold in
England
; and where-ever you perceive a Grove of Trees, you may depend upon it there is a Laird's House near it, which are mostly old Towers of Stone, strongly built, to prevent a Surprize from Inroads, which were frequent between the two Nations, before the Death of Queen
Elizabeth.
The first Town of Note on the Coast is
Kirkcudbright:
Tho' its Situation is extremely convenient for carrying on a very advantageous Commerce, we saw nothing but a Harbour without Ships, a Port without Trade, and a Fishery without Nets. This is owing partly to the Poverty, and partly to the Disposition of the Inhabitants, who are indeed a sober, grave, religious Sort of People, but have no Notion of acquiring Wealth by Trade; for they strictly obey the Scriptures in the very Letter of the Text, by
being content with such Things as they have.
The River
Dee,
which enters the Sea here, and forms the Harbour, comes out of the Mountains near
Carrick,
and is so full of Turnings and Meanders, that, tho' it is not above 70 Miles in a Line, it runs near 200 Miles in its Course.
The Country of
Galloway
lies due West from
Dumfries
; and as that Part of it they call the
Upper Galloway
runs out farther into the
Irish
Seas than the rest, all that Bay on the South-side may be reckoned Part of
Solway Firth,
as all on the North-side is called the
Firth of Clyde,
tho' near 50 Miles from the River itself.
The Western
Galloway,
or the Shire of
Wigton,
runs out with a Peninsula so far into the Sea, that from the utmost Shores you see the Coast of
Ireland
as plain as you see
Calais
from
Dover. Port Patrick,
which is the ordinary Place for the Ferry or Passage to
Belfast
and other Ports in
Ireland,
has a tolerable good Harbour, and a safe Road; but there is very little Use for it; the Packet-boat, and a few fishing Vessels, are the Sum of its Navigation. There was nothing here to invite our Stay; for 'tis a mean dirty homely Place: and as we had no Business but to see the Coast, we came away very ill satisfied with our Accommodation. Upon a Hill near the Town, we could plainly see
Ireland
to the South-west, the Coast of
Cumberland,
and the
Isle of Man
to the South-east, and the
Isle of Ila,
and the Mull of
Kintyre,
to the North-west.
As we passed into the Peninsula, we stopt at
Stranrawer,
situate on the North-side of the Isthmus, which is formed by two Arms of the Sea; one on the North-side, called
Lochrain
; and the other on the South, called the Bay of
Glenluce.
On each Side of this Isthmus is an excellent Road for Ships: But we could discover no Genius in the People for Trade, or for Sea Affairs of any Kind.
Six Miles South of
Wigton
lies
Whithern,
the antient
Candida Casa,
a Royal Burgh, but very poor, especially since the Dissolution of the Priory. In this Town was the Seat of the Bishop of
Galloway,
which was founded by St.
Ninian
about 1200 Years ago.
But tho' the People of
Galloway,
especially on the Sea Coast, are much to blame for not falling in to Commerce, Navigation,
&c.
yet they are not quite idle; for they are great Cultivators of the Earth, and Breeders of Cattle, of which they send above 50000 Head every Year to
England.
Besides, they have the best Breed of strong, low, punch Horses in
Britain,
if not in
Europe,
which are from thence called
Galloways.
These Horses, which are very much bought up in
England,
are remarkable for being good natural Pacers, strong, easy Goers, hardy, gentle, well-broken, and, above all, not apt to tire.
Proceeding from
Lower Galloway
hither, we had like to have been driven down the Stream of a River, tho' a Countryman went before for our Guide; for the Water swelled upon us as we passed, and the Stream was very strong, so that we were obliged to turn our Horses Heads to the Current, and sloping over, edg'd near the Shore by Degrees; whereas, if our Horses had stood directly cross the Stream, they could not have kept their Feet. The Inhabitants follow Fishing, as well in the Sea, as in the Rivers and Loughs, which lie every-where under the Hills; it which, about
September,
they catch an incredible Number of excellent Eels; by which they are no less Gainers, than by their little Horses.
This Part of the Country is very mountainous, and some of the Hills prodigiously high; but they were all covered with Sheep, and other Cattle, the Gentlemen hereabouts being the greatest Sheep-masters, (for so they call themselves) and the greatest Breeders of Black Cattle and Horses, in the whole Kingdom.
We now entered the Shire of
Aire,
full North from the Mull, or North-point of
Galloway:
And as we, before, coasted the South Bay, or Firth of
Solway,
which parts
England
from
Scotland,
so now we coasted the Firth of
Clyde,
which, for near 60 Miles, lies on the West-side of the Shore, standing away North-east from the Point of the Mull. This Shire is divided into three great Bailleries;
viz. Carrick, Kyle,
and
Cunningham.
Carrick
is a more fruitful and better cultivated Country than
Galloway,
and not so mountainous; but it does not so much abound in Cattle, especially Sheep and Horses. Tho' there is no considerable Port in this Part of the Country, yet the People begin to trade here, and those who live towards the Coast are great Fishermen, and are employed by the Merchants of
Glasgow,
and other Places, to catch Herrings for them.
May-bole
is the chief Town; but tho' it stands on the Coast, it has no Harbour, and is poor and decayed. The Market is pretty good, because there are many Gentlemen in the Neighbourhood, and the Coast near it full of People; but the Houses are mean, low, and very coarse. The Family of
Kennedy,
Earls of
Cassils,
are or were Lords of great Part of the Country, and have a good antient Seat; but we did not go to see it.
Coming to the North Bounds of
Carrick,
we passed the River
Dun
over a Bridge of one Arch, consisting of 90 Feet; which is much larger than the
Rialto
at
Venice,
or the middle Arch of the great Bridge at
York.
We found many large ones in this Country, tho' I think, none so large as this, except at
Glasgow
and
Stirling.
This Bridge led us into the County of
Kyle,
the second Division of the Shire of
Aire.
Here I observed, that, contrary to our Expectation, we found, the farther North we travelled, the Country was the finer, better, and richer.
Kyle
is more populous than
Carrick
; and the Soil being better here, and the Country more plain and level, so on the Banks of the River there are abundance of Gentlemens Seats, tho' most of them are built Castle-wise, because of Enemies. But that Fear being now over, they begin to plant and inclose after the Manner of
England.
The
Scots
Writers tell us a long Story of a great Battle in this Country between
Coilus,
or
Kylus,
a
British
King, and their
Fergus
I. where the former was killed, and from thence the Country took his Name. Many Monuments of this Battle are still to be seen here. The Place where were it was fought is called
Coil-field
; a Church near it, is called
Coil-town
Kirk. The River near which it was won, and which falls into the River
Aire,
four Miles above the Town of
Aire,
is called
Coil
; a Lake not far from it, near which the
Scots
encamped, is called
Lake Fergus.
A Trumpet resembling a crooked Horn, which has a very shrill Sound, was digged up in the Field of Battle, and is still kept in the Laird of
Caprington
's House, called
Coil-field,
and made use of to call his Servants and Workmen together. Here, or, as some say, at
Largis
in the Bay of
Clyde,
was another bloody Battle in the Year 1263. between King
Alexander
III. of
Scotland,
and
Acho,
King of
Norway,
who came to the Port of
Aire
with a great Fleet of Ships, and 20,000 Men, who, after ravaging the Country, was routed, and lost both his Army, and 140 Ships. At this last Battle, an
Irish
Gentleman, of the Name of
Mackenzie,
behaved so well, that King
Alexander
gave him the Lands of
Kintail,
which continued in the Possession of the Earl of
Seaforth,
his Successor, till the late Earl taking Part with the Pretender, his Estate became forfeited. From this brave
Irishman,
are descended the numerous Name of
Mackenzie.
Over the River
Aire
is a Bridge of Four Arches, near the new Town; and South of the Bridge stands the old Town of
Aire
or
Erigena,
famous for its Antiquity and Privileges. It has a very large Jurisdiction of near 64 Miles, reaching from the Mouth of
Clyde
to the Borders of
Galloway.
It stands on a sandy Plain, but has pleasant green Fields two Miles South and North of it. In the Fields betwixt the Mouth of the River
Dun
and
Aire,
stands a very beautiful Church. The Town has a very good Harbour in the River, and lies conveniently for Trade: And 'tis easy to see, that it has been much larger, than it is at present. It is now like an old Beauty, and shews the Ruins of a good Face, but is still decaying every Day; and from having been the fifth best Town in
Scotland,
as the Townsmen say, it is now the fifth worst; which is owing to the Decay of its Trade: So true it is, that Commerce is the Life of Cities, of Nations, and even of Kingdoms. What was the Reason of the Decay of Trade in this Place, is not easy to determine, the People themselves being either unwilling or unable to tell. Here, over the River
Irvin,
which divides
Aire
from
Cunningham,
is a good Bridge of four Arches.
Aire
is noted for the treacherous Murder of many Noblemen and Gentlemen by the
English
in
Wallace
's Time; when they were called together during a Truce (after
Edward
I. had over-run the Country) on Pretence of holding a Court of Justice, and were treacherously hanged one after another, as they entered the King's large Barns, where the Court was held.
This was as severely, as justly, revenged by
Wallace,
with whom, as Warden of
Scotland,
they had made the Truce, and whom they endeavoured to entice thither by their Charter of Peace, as they had done a great many others of Quality. But he, having Notice of what had passed, surprised them that very Night in their Jollity, rejoicing that they had, as they thought, by these treacherous Murders, secured
Scotland
for ever; and having set Guards round the Barn, that none should escape, he burnt all the
English
in them. The Ruins of those Barns are still shewn here.
Oliver Cromwell
built a Citadel at
Aire,
well fortify'd with a Fosse, and a Stone Wall. At the Restoration it was demolished; and at present only some Houses, and Angles of the Ramparts, are standing.
Two Miles North of
Aire
Town stands
Kincase,
which has been, from Time immemorial, a Place of Retirement for Leprous Persons.
From
Aire,
keeping still North, we came to
Irwin,
upon a River of the same Name. Here they have a Port, which formerly was in much better Condition than it had been for some Years past, the Harbour being so much decay'd by Length of Time, and other Accidents, that the Trade of the Town began to decay; for the Water not being confined to its proper Chanel, the Harbour became so choaked up with Sand-Banks, that it was of little Use to what it had been; so that Ships of very small Burden were freqently shut up for several Months in the River, before they could sail out to Sea. At the same time the Town-house, Church, Streets, and other publick Works, as the common Gaol, and one of the Arches of the Bridge, were all in a ruinous Condition: All which occasion'd an Act of Parliament to pass in the Ninth of King
George
II. for laying a Duty of Two-pennies
Scots
upon every
Scots
Pint of Ale or Beer sold in the Town of
Irvin,
and its Liberties; and a Duty of a Penny Sterling upon every Ton of Coals shipped off for Transportation. By which means the Harbour will soon be restored to its pristine Goodness, and the Town to its former flourishing Condition. But thus much must be said, that notwithstanding the declining Condition of its Harbour, before this Act passed, it carried on a greater Trade, than most of the Ports between
Aire
and
Dumfries.
Their chief Trade is in
Scots
Coal, which they export in great Quantities to
Ireland
; for the neighbouring Hills abound with this Commodity.
Irvin
is the Capital of that Division of the Shire of
Aire,
which they call
Cunningham,
and is really within the Firth of
Clyde,
tho' not actually within the River itself. The Name of
Cunningham
signifies,
the King's Habitation,
from the Beauty of its Situation.
As it has more Trade than the other Parts I have been speaking of, so it is better built. Here are two handsome Streets, a good Quay, and a capacious Harbour. The Country is rich and fruitful, filled with Gentlemens Seats and well-built Houses; and whereever you turn your Eye, you see nothing but beautiful Enclosures, pleasant Pastures, and Grass Grounds, so that we thought ourselves in
England
again. It is said, this inclosing the Ground was owing to the
English
Soldiers, who were placed here and in
Kyle
by
Oliver Cromwell
(for at
Aire
he built a Citadel, as I have said); these prompted and encouraged the People to inclose and improve their Lands, and instructed them in the Manner of Husbandry practised in
England,
which they have not forgot to this Day.
A very extraordinary Storm of Thunder and Lightning happened here, on the 26th of
November
1740. which deserves to be taken notice of, for the Terror it occasion'd, it being equally uncommon for the Season of the Year, and the Climate.
At Noon began to fall a very heavy Rain, which ended in such a Shower of large Hail, that every body betook themselves to Shelter from its Violence. This was followed with a sudden and most dreadful Flash of Fire, and Crack of Thunder. The Lightning accompanied the Thunder, which did not continue rolling, as usually, short and quick; but the Noise seemed greater and more frightful, than as if all the Ordnance on Earth had been at one Instant discharged. The Whole seemed to break upon the
Tolbooth
and Steeple; drove in much of the Roof on two Sides, so as Waggons might pass thro'; the Steeple was much shattered, and the Crevices large. The Town-clock was broke to Pieces, the Work either calcin'd or melted. The strong Door of the Prison was burst up (notwithstanding its large iron Bars). A Lad of Fourteen was killed as he stood at a Window, and his Cloaths intirely consumed; his Brother, aged Twelve, was thrown down near by him; another Brother was struck blind; their Aunt had all her Cloaths burnt to Ashes on one Side, and even her Skin flay'd off, worse than could have been done by any Blistering-plaister; her other Side seem'd untouch'd. 'Tis observable, that not one Bone of any of them was broken, tho' every Hair was singed, and that the sulphureous Stench about them was intolerable. Many other Persons were also grievously hurt. Two Sailors coming from the Quay, said, that a large Pillar of Fire struck them in the Face, which brought them to their Knees. One Mr.
Cunningham
said, it appear'd to him as a most voluminous Pillar of Fire, proceeding quick as from the Mouth of Cannon; and, that he thought, from the uncommon Smoke over the
Tolbooth,
that it had been all on Fire; he was thrown down, and his Foot much hurt. The People had scarce recovered their Senses, when two other Cracks of Thunder gave fresh Grounds of Terror; so that it was apprehended the General Judgment approached, and every one prostrated themselves in Humility, imploring Mercy from on high; but these last, tho' terrible and uncommon, were nothing to the first. Great hewn Stones were carried violently out of the Steeple to Baillie
Nesbitt
's House, where they left Impressions.
A little from
Irvin
stood
Kilmarnock
Castle, the Seat of the Family of the
Boyds,
Earls of
Kilmarnock,
which on the 15th of
March
1738-9. was intirely consumed, with the Furniture, and a curious Collection of Books in MSS. nothing being saved but the Charter-chest. On the other Side is the Castle of
Eglington,
the Seat of the antient Family of the
Montgomeries,
Earls of
Eglington.
On the North-east Borders of this County, where it joins to
Clydsdale,
is the Castle of
London,
the noble and beautiful Seat of the Earl of
London.
Upon the Bay of
Clyde
stands the Town of
Largis,
famous for the Defeat of the
Norwegians
by King
Alexander
III. of
Scotland,
which some give to
Kyle,
as we have said above.
Kilmaers,
in the same County, is the Seat of the noble and antient Family of
Cunningham,
Earls of
Glencairn. Camden
says, that the Family derives its Original from one of that Name concerned in the Murder of
Thomas à Becket,
who fled into
Scotland
on that Account, and therefore bear an Episcopal Pall in their Arms; but it is plain from their Motto,
Over, Fork, over,
that it is a Fork, and not an Episcopal Pall: and the Family, no doubt, is of a much higher and nobler Original.
In the Sea lies
Lady Isle,
where is great Plenty of Rabbets and Fowl, but no Inhabitants.
With the Division of
Cunningham
I quitted the Shire of
Aire,
which is, without Exception, one of the pleasantest Counties in
Scotland.
Joining to it North, and bordering on the
Clyde
itself, lies the Shire, or rather Barony of
Renfrew,
which was the antient Estate of the
Stuarts
before they succeeded to the Crown of
Scotland
; and his Royal Highness the Prince of
Wales,
among other Titles, is now styled Baron of
Renfrew.
It is a pleasant, rich, and populous Country; and tho' the Soil is not thought to be so good as in
Cunningham,
yet that is abundantly recompensed by the Neighbourhood of
Glasgow
and the
Clyde,
and the great Commerce of both.
We kept our Rout from
Irvin
along the Coast, as near as we could; so that we saw all the Firth of the
Clyde,
and the very Opening itself, which is just at the West-corner of this County. There are some Villages and Fishing Towns within the Mouth of this River which have good Business.
The first Town of Note is called
Greenock,
which seems not to be an antient Place, but to be grown up in later Years by being a good Road for Ships to ride in that come into, and go out from
Glasgow,
as Ships for
London
do in the
Downs.
The Town is well-built, has many rich trading Families in it, and a Castle to command the Road. It is the chief Place in the West of
Scotland
for the Herring Fishing; and the Merchants of
Glasgow,
who are concerned in it, employ their Vessels for catching and curing the Fish, and for carrying them Abroad to Market afterwards; and their being ready on all Hands to go to Sea, makes them often leave the Care of their own Ships to the
Greenock
Men, who are good Seamen, and excellent Pilots for those difficult Seas.
At the West-end of a Bay on the Firth is a small Town, called
Gowrock,
where is a noted Road and Harbour lately fitted up.
Paisley
also stands in this County on the River
Cart
; and, tho' no Borough, is larger than
Renfrew
; and was formerly noted for its noble Abbey of the Order of
Cluny
; the Monks of which wrote a Chronicle called,
The black Book of Paisley.
The Abbey and Church, with fair Gardens and Orchards, and a little Park for fallow Deer, are all inclosed with a Stone Wall about a Mile in Circuit: The Water of the River
Whitecart,
upon which
Paisley
stands, is commended for its Largeness, and the Pearls frequently found thereabouts, and three Miles above. They commonly fish for them in Summertime, and meet with them in a Shell-fish larger than an ordinary Muscle, at the Bottom of the Water. It lies on the West-side of
Clyde
over-against
Glasgow.
The Remains of the Abbey are still to be seen, and the Town bears the Marks of having been fortified. At the West-end of the Town are the Remains of a large
Roman
Camp and
Praetorium,
supposed to be vaulted underneath, because the Ground, when trod upon, sounds hollow. Here it was
Mary
Queen of
Scots
was defeated by her rebellious Subjects under the Bastard Earl of
Murray,
from whence she took Refuge in
England,
and was there most
inhospitably
imprisoned for several Years, and at last beheaded. In the Lands of
Newyards,
near
Paisley,
on a high Ground, is a Fountain noted for ebbing and flowing with the Tide.
The Country between
Paisley
and
Glasgow,
on the Bank of
Clyde,
I take to be one of the most agreeable Places in
Scotland
for its Situation, Fertility, Healthiness, and for the Benefits it receives from the Neighbourhood of
Glasgow,
and the Sea.
I am now come to the Bank of
Clyde
; but my Method here, as in
England,
forbids my wandering North, till I have given you a full View of the South. The
Clyde
and the
Forth
may be said to cross
Scotland
here, their two Firths not being above 20 Miles distant from one another, which, if joined, would divide it very near in the Centre.
Nor can I refrain mentioning how easy a Work it would be to make a Navigation from the
Forth
to the
Clyde,
joining the two Seas, as the King of
France
has done in a Place five hundred times more difficult, namely, from
Tholouse
to
Narbonne
; and as the late Czar of
Muscovy, Peter,
justly surnamed
The Great,
did in several Places of infinitely greater Difficulty and Expence. What an Advantage in Commerce would this be? It would establish a Trade between
Ireland
and the Merchants in
Glasgow,
and open a Communication between the West-coast of
Scotland,
and the East of
England,
even to
London
; nay, several Ports of
England
on the
Irish
Sea, from
Liverpool
Northward, would all trade with
London
by such a Canal. It would take up a Volume to lay down the several Advantages that would immediately accrue from such a Navigation, and in particular in Times of War; but it must lie till Posterity, by the rising Greatness of their Commerce, shall not only feel the Want of it, but find themselves inclinable, as well as able, to effect it.
Glasgow
is the Emporium of the West of
Scotland,
being, for its Commerce and Riches, the second in this Northern Part of
Great Britain.
It is a large, stately, and well-built City, standing on a Plain, in a manner four-square; and the four principal Streets are the fairest for Breadth, and the finest built, that I have ever seen in one City together. The Houses are all of Stone, and generally uniform in Height, as well as in Front. The lower Stories for the most part stand on vast square
Dorick
Columns, with Arches which open into the Shops, adding to the Strength, as well as Beauty, of the Building. In a Word, 'tis one of the cleanliest, most beautiful, and best-built Cities in
Great Britain.
It stands on the Side of a Hill, sloping to the River; only that Part next the River, for near one-third of the City, is flat, and by this means, exposed to the Water upon any extraordinay Flood: It is situated upon the East Bank of the
Clyde,
which is not navigable to the Town but by small Vessels. Its Port therefore is
Newport-Glasgow,
which stands near the
Clyde
's Mouth, and is an Harbour for Ships of the greatest Burden. Here it is on a good Wharf or Quay the Merchants load and unload. Their Custom-house is also here, and their Ships are here repaired, laid up, and fitted out either here or at
Greenock,
where Work is well done, and Labour cheap.
The City is join'd to the Suburbs on the West Bank of the
Clyde
by the noble Bridge I have mentioned.
Where the four principal Streets meet, the Crossing makes a very spacious Market-place, as may be easily imagined, since the Streets are so large. As we come down the Hill from the North-gate to this Place, the Tolbooth and Guild-hall make the North-west Angle, or Right-hand Corner of the Street, which is now rebuilt in a very magnificent Manner. Here the Town-council sit, and the Magistrates try such Causes as come within their Cognizance, and do all their other publick Business. So that, as will be easily conceived, the Tolbooth stands in the very Centre of the City. It is a noble Structure of hewn Stone, with a very lofty Tower, and melodious hourly Chimes. All these four principal Streets are adorned with several publick Buildings.
But the chief Ornament of this City is the College or University, a most magnificent and stately Fabrick, consisting of several Courts. The Front to the City is of hewn Stone, and excellent Architecture. Its Precincts were lately inlarged by some Acres of Ground purchased for it by publick Money; and it is separated from the rest of the City by a very high Wall.
It owes its Erection to Archbishop
Turnbull,
and was legally founded by King
James
II. in 1453. by virtue of a Bull from Pope
Nicolas
V. granting it all the Privileges, Liberties, Honours, Immunities, and Exemptions, given by the Apostolical See to the College of
Bononia,
in
Italy,
for teaching Universal Learning. A Rector, a Dean of the Faculty, a Principal or Warden, who was to teach Theology, three Philosophy-Professors, were established by the first Foundation; and afterwards some Clergymen taught the Civil and Canon Law there.
In 1577. King
James
VI. established a Principal, three Professors of Philosophy, four Bursars, a Steward to furnish their Table, a Servant for the Principal, a Janitor to look after the Gate, and a Cook.
The Family of
Hamilton
gave some of the Ground on which the College stands, with an adjacent Field.
Kings, Parliaments, the City of
Glasgow,
several of the Archbishops, and many particular Persons, have been Benefactors to it.
In 1662. the Earl of
Dundonald
gave 1000
l.
Sterling to it, for the Maintenance of poor Scholars. The great
Buchanan,
and the famous
Cameron
had, among other eminent Men, their Education here.
Several fine
Roman
Stones, digged up in the Latter-end of 1740. near
Kirkentilloch,
with very curious Inscriptions, have been removed to this University, where before was a good Collection of Pieces of Antiquity, chiefly found near the same Place.
In the higher Part of the City stands the great Church, formerly Cathedral and Metropolitan, dedicated to St.
Mungo,
who was Bishop here about the Year 560. It is a magnificent and stately Edifice, and surprises the Beholders with its stupendous Bigness, and the Workmanship of the Artizan. The several Rows of Pillars, and the exceeding high Spire which rises from a square Tower in the middle of the Cross, shew a wonderful Piece of Architecture. It is now divided into several Preaching-places, one above the other.
Near the Church stands a ruinous Castle, formerly the Residence of the Archbishop, who was legal Lord or Superior of the City, which stands on his Ground, and from whom it received its first Charter, and many Privileges. It is encompassed with an exceeding high Wall of hewn Stone, and has a fine Prospect into the City.
The Duke of
Montrose
has so great an Interest here, and in the Country round, that he is, in a Civil Sense, Governor of this City, as he is legally of their University, and much beloved in these Parts.
Glasgow
is a City of Business, and has the Face of Foreign as well as Domestick Trade; nay, I may say, 'tis the only City in
Scotland,
at this Time, that apparently increases in both. The Union has, indeed, answered its End to them, more than to any other Part of the Kingdom, their Trade being new formed by it; for as the Union opened the Door to the
Scots
into our
American
Colonies, the
Glasgow
Merchants presently embraced the Opportunity; and tho', at its first concerting, the Rabble of this City made a formidable Attempt to prevent it, yet afterwards they knew better, when they found the great Increase of their Trade by it; for they now send near 50 Sail of Ships every Year to
Virginia, New England,
and other
English
Colonies in
America.
But if this City could have a Communication with the Firth of
Forth,
so as to send their Tobacco and Sugar by Water to
Alloway
below
Stirling,
as they might from thence again to
London, Holland, Hamburgh,
and the
Baltick,
they would very probably in a few Years double their Trade.
The Share they have in the Herring Fishery is very considerable; and they cure their Herrings so well, and so much better than they are done in any other Part of
Great Britain,
that a
Glasgow
Herring is esteemed as good as a
Dutch
one.
I have no room to inlarge upon the Home Trade of this City, which is very considerable in many Things. I shall therefore touch at some few Particulars.
1. Here are two very handsome Sugar-baking Houses, carried on by skilful Persons, with large Stocks, and to a very great Perfection. Here is likewise a large Distillery for distilling Spirits from the Melasses drawn from Sugars, by which they enjoyed a vast Advantage for a Time, by a reserved Article in the Union, freeing them from
English
Duties.
2. Here is a Manufacture of Plaiding, a Stuff crossstriped with yellow, red, and other Mixtures, for the Plaids or Veils worn by the Women in
Scotland.
3. Here is a Manufacture of Muslins, which they make so good and fine, that great Quantities of them are sent into
England,
and to the
British
Plantations, where they sell at a good Price. They are generally striped, and are very much used for Aprons by the Ladies, and sometimes in Head-cloaths by the meaner Sort of
Englishwomen.
4. Here is also a Linen Manufacture; but as that is in common with all Parts of
Scotland,
which improve in it daily, I will not insist upon it as a Peculiar here, tho' they make a very great Quantity of it, and send it to the Plantations as their principal Merchandize: Nor are the
Scots
without a Supply of Goods for sorting their Cargoes to the
English
Colonies, without sending to
England
for them; and it is necessary to mention it here, because it has been objected by some, that the
Scots
could not send a sortable Cargo to
America,
without buying from
England
; which, coming thro' many Hands, and by a long Carriage, must consequently be so dear, that the
English
Merchants can undersell them.
It is very probable indeed, that some Things cannot be had here so well as from
England,
so as to make out such a sortable Cargo as the
Virginia
Merchants in
London
ship off, whose Entries at the Custom-house consist sometimes of two hundred Particulars, as Tin, Turnery, Milanery, Upholstery, Cutlery, and other
Crooked-lane
Wares; in short, somewhat of every Thing, either for Wearing or House-furniture, building Houses or Ships.
But tho' the
Scots
cannot do all this, we may reckon up what they can furnish, which they have not only in sufficient Quantities, but some in greater Perfection than
England
itself.
1. They have Woollen Manufactures of their own, such as
Stirling
Serges,
Musselburgh
Stuffs,
Aberdeen
Stockens,
Edinburgh
Shalloons, Blankets,
&c.
2. The Trade with
England
being open, they have now all the
Manchester, Sheffield,
and
Birmingham
Wares, and likewise the Cloths, Kerseys, Half-thicks, Duffels, Stockens, and coarse Manufactures of the North of
England,
brought as cheap or cheaper to them by Horse-packs, as they are carried to
London,
it being at a less Distance.
3. They have Linens of most Kinds, especially Diapers and Table-linen, Damasks, and many other Sorts not known in
England,
and cheaper than there, because made at their own Doors.
4. What Linens they want from
Holland
or
Hamburgh,
they import from thence as cheap as the
English
can do, and for Muslins, their own are very acceptable, and cheaper than in
England.
5. Gloves they make better and cheaper than in
England
; for they send great Quantities thither.
6. Another Article, which is very considerable here, is Servants, which they can transport in greater Plenty, and upon better Terms, than the
English,
without the scandalous Art of Kidnapping, Wheedling, Betraying, and the like; for the poor People offer themselves fast enough, and think it their Advantage, as it certainly is, to serve out their Times soberly in the foreign Plantations, and then become diligent Planters for themselves; which is a much wiser Course than to turn Thieves, and then be transported to save them from the Gallows. This may be given as a Reason, and, I believe, it is the only one, why so many more of the
Scots
Servants, who go over to
Virginia,
settle and thrive there, than of the
English
; which is so certainly true, that if it holds on for many Years more,
Virginia
may be rather called a
Scots
than an
English
Plantation.
I might mention many other Particulars; but this is sufficient to shew, that the
Scots
Merchants are not at a Loss how to make up sortable Cargoes to send to the Plantations; and that if we can outdo them in some things, they are able to outdo us in others. If they are under any Disadvantages in the Trade I am speaking of, it is that they may not, perhaps, have so easy a Vend and Consumption for the Goods they bring back, as the
English
have at
London, Bristol,
or
Liverpool
; for which Reason they have lately set up a Wharf at
Alloway
in the
Forth,
whence they send their Tobacco and Sugars thither by Land-carriage, and ship them off from thence for
Holland, Hamburgh,
or
London,
as the Market offers; and indeed they carry on a profitable Trade with
England
in Tobacco, which from the Difference of Duty,
&c.
they do with no small Advantage.
Now, tho' the carrying their Tobacco and Sugars several Miles over Land may be some Disadvantage, yet, if, on the other hand, it be calculated how much sooner the Voyage is made from
Glasgow
to the Capes of
Virginia,
than from
London,
the Difference will be made up in the Frieght, and in the Expence of the Ships, especially in time of War, when the Chanel is thronged with Privateers, and the Ships wait to go in Fleets for fear of Enemies; for the
Glasgow
Vessels are no sooner out of the Firth of
Clyde,
but they stretch away to the North-west, are out of the Road of the Privateers immediately, and are often at the Capes of
Virginia
before the
London
Ships get clear of the Chanel. Nay, even in times of Peace, there must always be allowed, one time with another, at least fourteen or twenty Days Difference in the Voyage, both going out and coming in, which, taken together, is a Month or six Weeks in the whole Voyage; and considering Wear and Tear, Victuals and Wages, this makes a considerable Difference in the Trade.
One thing still I must take notice of, before I quit
Glasgow.
I have mentioned, more than once, the Duties laid on Ale and Beer sold in divers Towns in
Scotland,
for the Benefit and publick Emolument of the said Towns; but have here to take Notice of the like Duty laid for a different Purpose, that is to say, for a Punishment: The Case was this:
When the Malt-Duty was extended for the first time to
Scotland,
it occasioned much murmuring; and particularly
Daniel Campbell,
Esq
who lived at
Glasgow,
and was Member for that Town, having given his Vote for it in Parliament, the Populace rose, enter'd his House, destroy'd all his Goods and Furniture, and committed other Acts of Violence and Outrage.
This the Legislature resenting as a Defiance of lawful Authority, an Act passed in the 12th of King
George
I. 1725. to take from the Town of
Glasgow
the Benefits of an Act before passed, for laying a Duty of two Penies
Scots
on every Pint of Ale or Beer brewed for Sale in the said City and its Privileges; and vesting it for the Remainder of the Term, which was for thirteen Years to come, (
viz.
from 1725. to 1738.) in his Majesty, to be put under the Commissioners of Excise, in order to raise the Sum of 6080
l.
for satisfying the Damages and Losses sustained by Mr.
Campbell
in the said Riot; but it was provided, that when the said Sum was paid, the Duty of Two Penies
Scots
was to return, for the Remainder of the Term, to the Magistrates, for the Purposes for which they were originally granted. This occasioned no good Blood, it may be believed, between the City and Mr.
Campbell
; but yet, this was not the last time this City had the Honour to be represented in Parliament by the same Gentleman, as it is joined with the Burghs of
Renfrew, Ruglen,
and
Dunbarton!
—So placable, and so forgiving, are the generous
Scotish
Nation! or, at least, so little Title has the City of
Glasgow
in particular to the National Motto of
Scotland!
—Nor did this good Behaviour of theirs turn out to its Disadvantage; for in the 9th of
George
II. a new Act passed, continuing the former Act for Twenty-five Years longer, and extending it to the Villages of
Gorbells,
and
Port Glasgow,
both which Places were in the Jurisdiction of the City, and reaped all their Advantages from its Neighbourhood; the latter especially, at which the People of
Glasgow
had built, and constantly maintained, a very commodious Harbour, and yet were neither of them in the former Act.
From
Glasgow
I went eight Miles Southward to
Hamilton,
a Town pleasant and well-built, the Church of which is the Burying-place of the Noble Family of
Hamilton.
But it is chiefly noted for its fine Palace, the Seat of the Duke of
Hamilton,
premier Peer in
Scotland,
and nearly related to the Royal Family of the
Stuarts.
The House at present is large, tho' Part of the Design is yet unfinished. It has a fair Front, with two Wings, and two more are laid out in the Ichnography of the Building, which are not yet begun.
The Front is very magnificent, all of white Free-stone, with regular Ornaments according to the Rules of Art. The Wings are very deep, and when the other two are added, the Sides of the House will be like two large Fronts rather than Wings. The Apartments are very noble, and more fit for the Court of a Prince, than the House of a Subject. The Pictures, the Furniture, and other Decorations are exquisitely fine, and suitable to the Dignity of the great Possessors. The late Duchess, marrying a Branch of the Family of
Dowglas,
obliged him to take the Name of
Hamilton,
and so continue the Estate in her Name. Her Grace had six Sons, four of whom were Peers either by Birth or Creation;
viz.
The late Duke, who was killed in a Duel with Lord
Mohun, Anno
1712.
Charles,
late Earl of
Selkirk,
so created by King
James
VII.
John,
Earl of
Ruglen
; and
George,
late Earl of
Orkney.
The other two were Lord
Basil,
and Lord
Archibald,
late one of the Lords of the Admiralty.
The Situation of the House has all the Advantage imaginable; for it stands in a plain Country, near enough to the Banks of
Clyde
to enjoy the Prospect of its Stream, and yet far enough from it to be out of the Reach of its Torrents and Floods.
The great Park is about seven Miles in Circumference, and noted for its fine Oaks and Firs, and the small River
Aven
runs thro' it. It is walled round with Stone, and well stock'd with Deer. The lesser Park is rather a great Inclosure, than a Park; tho' this, as well as the other, is extremely well planted with Trees. The Gardens are finely designed, but I can't say they are so well finished and kept, as those at
Drumlanrig.
Ruglen
is another Town in this County, which gives Title of Earl to a Branch of the Family of
Hamilton,
as has been said.
Here is also the Town and Castle of
Dowglas,
which gives Title and Surname to the Dukes of
Dowglas:
Of which Family more anon.
Crawford Lindsey,
in this County, gives Title also to the Earl of
Crawford,
who claims Precedency as first Earl.
In
Crawford-Moor,
Gold has been found in the Sand of the Brooks after Rain, and that in pretty large Pieces, and they dug up
Lapis Lazuli
there. The Remains of a
Roman
Causeway are to be seen in this County from one End to the other.
We then turned to the Left for
Stirlingshire,
and, after passing the
Clyde,
came to
Kilsyth,
a good plain Country Burgh, tolerably well-built, but not large, near which the Marquis of
Montross
gave a great Overthrow to the Covenanters in the Civil Wars. Here, upon a particular Occasion, we went to see the antient Seat of
Calendar,
which seems now in its Decline. The Town of
Falkirk
is near
Calendar
House, but has nothing remarkable in it, except the other old decayed House of the Earl of
Calendar.
Here we plainly saw the Remains of the antient Work, which they call
Severus
's Wall,
Adrian
's Wall, or
Graham
's Dyke, for it is known by all these; built by the
Romans
cross this narrow Part of the Country, and fortified with Redoubts and Stations to defend the South Country from the Incursions of the
Picts, Irish,
and other wild Nations, in the
Highlands.
This Wall reached from
Dunbriton Firth
(so they called the Firth of
Clyde
) to the
Forth,
and was several times repaired, till the Destruction of the
Roman
Empire in
Britain,
with which it perished. Yet neither this, while it stood, nor the stronger one at
Newcastle,
called
Severus
's Wall, could so well preserve the Country from the Invasion of
Picts
and
Scots,
but the
Romans
were often obliged to send powerful Succours to the Relief of the distressed
Britons. Camden
thinks, that this Wall was built by
Antoninus Pius,
who being adopted by
Adrian,
assumed his Name. Be this as it will, 'tis certain, that in all the
Scotish
Histories, it is called
Graham
's
Dyke.
The Manner of the Wall is best understood by Mr.
Pont
's Description in Dr.
Gibson
's (now Lord Bishop of
London
) Translation of
Camden
's
Britannia,
p. 959. First, there appears a Ditch of 12 Feet wide before the Wall, towards the Enemies Country; the Wall is 10 Feet thick, but it is not known how high it was at first: There is a paved Way at the Foot of the Wall, five Feet broad, Watch-towers within Call of one another, where Centinels kept Watch Day and Night; a Court of Guard to lodge a sufficient Number of Soldiers against all sudden Alarms, and a Void within, for the Soldiers Lodgings. Besides these, there are along the Wall great and noble Forts, strongly intrench'd, and tho' within the Wall, able to receive a whole Army together. The Forts which remained in Mr.
Pont
's Time, who traced them all, were these; one at
Langtoun,
a Mile East of
Falkirk
; one just at
Rouintree Burnhead
; one at
Wester-Gowden,
about
St. Helen
's Chapel; one at the
Croykill
; a very great one at the Top of the
Banhill
; one at
Atchindevy
; one at
Kirkintilloch,
or
Kaerpencolloch
; one at
East-Calder
; one at
Hilltoun-Calder
; one at
Balmudy
; one at
Simerstone,
and over
Kilvin
River, and
Carestoun
; one at
Atermynie
; one at
Balcastle,
over-against
Banhil
; one at
Kaellybe,
over-against
Croy-hill
; one at the
Roch-hill,
over-against the
West-wood
; a large one at
Bankyir,
over-against
Castle-Cairy
; one at
Dumbase:
In the Ruins of that at
Bankyir
was found a large Iron Shovel, or some Instrument resembling it, so weighty that it could hardly be lifted by one Man. At the same Fort also were discover'd several Sepulchres covered with large rough Stones; and at
Dun-Chroe Chyr,
by
Mony-Abroch,
were formerly large Buildings. The Length of the Wall was 36
Scots
Miles, beginning between
Queen's Ferry
and
Abercorn
; it ranged along West by the
Grange
and
Kineil,
to
Innereving,
so on to
Falkirk
; from whence it proceeded directly to the Forest of
Cumernald
; next, it ran to the great Fort at the
Banhill,
where have been found several Stones, some with Pictures engraven upon them, and with Inscriptions. From whence it went to the
Peel
of
Kirkintilloch,
the greatest Fort of all, and so Westward to
Dumbarton,
with a great Ditch upon the North-side of the Wall all along. It had also many square Fortifications in form of
Roman
Camps.
From
Kilsyth
we mounted the Hills, black and frightful as they were, to find the Road over the Moors and Mountains to
Sterling
; and being directed by Guides, we came to the River
Carron.
The Chanel of a River appeared, indeed, and looked as if it had been cut out by Art thro' horrid Precipices, to mark out a Course for the Water; but yet not a Drop was at that time to be seen. Great Stones, square, and formed as if cut out by Hand, of a prodigious Size, lay scattered in a confused manner in the very Course of the River, which, as we were told, the Fury of the Water, at other times, had hurried down from the Mountains. If so, they must have been some Ages upon their Jouney down the Stream; for 'tis not probable, that a Flood often comes with a Force sufficient to move such Stones as these, unless a great Quantity of Ice, as well as Water, comes down upon them together. But in all Probability, they are not not driven down by the Force of the Water at all; but are
Roman
Monuments; of which more by-and-by.
Here we passed another Bridge of one Arch, not quite so large as that we saw in
Galloway,
but very like it. 'Tis finely built of Free-stone, but the Shores being flat, it rises so high, that it is not every Head can bear to ride over it. But there was a Necessity of building it with one Arch only; for no Piers in the middle of the Chanel could have borne the Shock of the great Stones, which sometimes come down this Stream.
From hence, descending on the North-side, we had a View of the Firth of
Forth
on our Right, and of the Castle of
Stirling
on our Left. In going to the latter, we passed the Water of
Bannockburn,
famous in the
Scots
History for the great Battle fought here between King
Robert de Bruce,
and the
English
Army commanded by King
Edward
II. in Person, in which the
English
were utterly overthrown, and that with so terrible a Slaughter, that tho' it was the greatest Army that ever marched from
England
into
Scotland,
very few escaped, and the King with much ado saved himself by Flight. How he could save himself by a little Boat, (as Mr.
Camden
says) I cannot understand, there being no River near, that had any Boats in it, but the
Forth
; and then the King must have fled North, whereas, to be sure, he fled to
England
with all the Speed he could. He might, indeed, have made use of a Boat to pass the
Tweed,
but that was at least 50 Miles from the Field of Battle.
Whether the
Scots
magnify this Victory or not, is not my Business to inquire. 'Tis certain that the
English
Army was totally overthrown here; for they lost 50000 Men, among whom were abundance of their Nobility and Gentry.
This Place is also remarkable for the execrable Murder of King
James
III. whose young Son was by some discontented Nobles worked up to this impious Deed. But when his Understanding ripened, he saw the Action in its proper Light, and was so greatly affected by it, that he did Penance for ever after by constantly wearing an Iron Chain near his Flesh.
Sterling
was our next Stage, an antient Town, and an important Pass, which, together with
Dumbarton,
is the Defence of the Lowlands against the Highlands; for, as one very knowingly said,
Dumbarton
is the Lock of the Highlands, and
Stirling
Castle keeps the Key. The Town is situated, exactly as
Edinburgh,
on the Ridge of a Hill, sloping down on both Sides, and the Street gradually ascending from the East to the Castle, which is at the West-end. It is large and well-built, and tho' it is antient, yet the Buildings are not unlike those of
Edinburgh.
The Church is also a very spacious Building, but not Collegiate. It stands in the upper Part of the Town, towards the End, is of good Architecture, and adorned with a lofty Tower. There was formerly a Church, or rather a Collegiate Chapel, in the Castle, and likewise a private Chapel, or Oratory, in the Palace, for the Royal Family; but they have been long disused.
The Castle is not so very difficult of Access as that at
Edinburgh,
but is esteemed equally strong; for the Works are capable to mount more Cannon, and there is a Battery that commands the Bridge, which is of the utmost Importance, and seems to have been the main End and Purpose for which it was built. The Walls, and all the Outworks, are so firm, that they seem in as good Condition, as if they had been lately built.
The Palace and Royal Apartments are very magnificent, but are all in Decay, and likely to continue so. This is at present also the Fate of the Palaces of
Linlithgow, Falkland, Dumfermling,
and all the other Royal Houses in
Scotland, Holy-rood-house
at
Edinburgh
excepted.
In the Park adjoining to the Castle were formerly large Gardens. The Figure of the Walks and Grass-plots is still plainly to be seen.
The Park here is large, and walled about, as most of the Parks in
Scotland
are; but there is little or no Wood in it. The Earls of
Mar,
of the Name of
Ereskin,
who claims to be Hereditary Keeper of the King's Children, and of this Castle, had a House at the upper End of the Town, very finely situated for Prospect, but not for Security, being too near the Castle; for were the Castle ever to suffer a close Siege, and be vigorously defended, it would run a great Risque of being demolished on one Side or other; besides, this Nearness to the Castle makes the Site more confused to the Eye.
From a pretty little Flower-garden upon one of the Bastions on the North-side of the Castle, we had a most agreeable Prospect over the Valley, and of the Meanders, Turnings, or Reaches of the River
Forth,
which are extremely beautiful. They are so spacious, and return so near themselves with so regular and exact a Sweep, that, I believe, the like of it is not to be seen in
Britain,
and perhaps, not in
Europe,
especially in so large a River. The
Seine,
indeed, between
Paris
and
Roan,
fetches a Sweep something like these, and some Miles longer, but then it is but one; whereas here are three double Reaches, which makes six Returns together, and each of them above three
Scots
Miles in Length: And as the Bows are almost equal for Breadth, as the Reaches are for Length, it makes the Figure complete. It is an admirable Sight indeed, and continues from a little below the great Bridge at
Stirling
to
Alloway,
the Seat of the Earls of
Mar.
The Form of this Winding may be conceived by the Length of the Way; for it is twenty-four Miles from
Stirling
to
Alloway
by Water, and hardly four Miles by Land.
One would think these large Windings of the Stream would check the Tide very much; but, on the contrary, we found the Tide of Flood make up very strong under
Stirling-bridge,
tho' it does not flow above seven or eight Miles farther; for the Stream grows narrow apace, and the rapid Current of all Rivers in this Country checks the Tide, when it comes into narrow Limits: The same is the Case in the
Tyne
at
Newcastle,
and the
Tweed
at
Berwick,
in both which, tho' the Tide flows as strong in at the Mouth of these Rivers as in this, yet the Navigation goes not near so far up.
The Bridge of
Stirling
has only four Arches; but they are very large, and the Chanel widens considerably below it. At
Alloway
it is above a Mile broad, and deep enough for Ships of any Burden; so that the
Glasgow
Merchants are certainly in the right to settle Warehouses there, and ship off their Goods for the Eastern Countries.
I was very curious to inquire into the Course of this River, as I had been before into that of the
Clyde,
to see if there was a Possibility of uniting their Waters for an Inland Navigation; because I had observed that the Charts and Plans of the Country brought them almost to meet. But when I came to survey the Ground exactly, I found the Map-makers greatly mistaken, and that they had not only given the Situation and Courses of the Rivers wrong, but the Distances also. However, upon the whole, I saw plainly, that notwithstanding several Circumstances which might obstruct it, and cause the Workmen to fetch some winding Turns out of the Way, yet a Canal of about 18 Miles would fairly join the Rivers, and make a clear Navigation from the
Irish
to the
German
Sea; and that this could be done without any considerable Obstruction; for they would not have Occasion for above four Sluices in the whole Way, and those only to head a Bason, or Receptacle, to contain a Flush of Water, to push on the Vessels either way, as Occasion required.
How easy such a Work would be, and how advantageous, not to
Scotland
only, but even to
England
and
Ireland,
the Thing itself will explain at first Sight. I could enter upon particular Descriptions of the Work, and answer all the Objections raised from the great Quantity of Waters in the Winter, and the Force and Fury of their Streams; but I have no room for it here.
There is a very considerable Manufacture at
Stirling
for Serges or Shalloons, which they make and dye very well; nor has the
English
Manufacture for Shalloons broke in so much upon them as it was apprehended it would. This Manufacture is a great Support to the poor People that are employed in it, who are thereby enabled to live very comfortably.
The Family of
Ereskine
is very considerable here; for besides the Earls of
Mar
and
Buchan,
there are several Gentlemen of Quality of that Name.
We had here a very fine Prospect both East and West: Eastward we could plainly see the Castle of
Edinburgh,
and the Hill, called
Arthur
's
Seat,
in the Royal Park at
Holy-rood-house
; and Westward we could see
Dumbarton
Castle. To the Northward we saw
Dumblane,
and the Field of Battle, called
Sheriffmuir,
between it and
Sterling.
But our Business was not to the North yet; for having a Part of the Border to view, we went from
Stirling
to the South-east, over some of the same Hills we passed at our coming hither, that we might leave nothing behind to oblige us to come this Way again. The Duke of
Argyll
has a small House here, which the Family call the
Lowland House,
to distinguish it from the many Seats they are possessed of in the Highlands. This Seat belonged formerly to the Earls of
Stirling.
The County round it, South of the
Forth,
is called
Stirlingshire,
or
Strivelingshire.
Stirling
was one of the Boundaries of the
Roman
Empire in
Britain,
as appears by the Inscription on a Stone below the Castle, towards the Bridge, importing, That one of the Wings of their Army kept Guard there. On the Right of the Town stood the noble Abbey of
Cambuskenneth.
The River
Carron,
which I mentioned before, is famous for some
Roman
Monuments, particularly two little Hills, called by the Vulgar
Dunipace, i. e.
Hills of Peace, and two Miles lower is a round Edifice of Stone, which, by the Description, resembles what the
Romans
called the
Temple of Terminus.
But
Buchanan
thinks, they were rather Monuments of some great Actions performed here.
From
Stirling
we went directly to
Linlithgow,
a large Town, well built, with a stately Town-house, but most famous for the noble Palace of the Kings of
Scotland,
which is the least decayed of all the rest; for King
James
VI. repaired, or rather rebuilt it; and his two Sons Prince
Henry,
and Prince
Charles,
afterwards King of
England,
had Apartments here, which a Traveller may easily distinguish by the different Coats of Arms, especially over those called the
Prince's Lodgings.
This Palace stands on a rising Ground, which runs into the Lake, in form of an Amphitheatre, and has a Descent resembling Terrace-walks. There are two Towers at each Corner of the Court, with Apartments, and a curious Fountain in the Middle, adorned with several fine Statues, from whence the Water rises to a good Height. A noble Park also belongs to it.
The Church of St.
Michael
makes a Part of this Building, and is a Wing on the Right-hand of the first Court, as the proper Offices make the Left. The Inner-court is very large and elegant for the Taste of the Times. In the Middle of this is the large Fountain I have mentioned, which still shews the Remains of some good Carving, and other Ornaments.
Here King
James
V. restored the Order of the Knights of St.
Andrew,
as the Order of Knights of the
Bath
lately was in
England,
and erected a Throne and Stalls for them in St.
Michael
's Church, making it the Chapel of the Order. He was likewise the first who ordered the
Thistle
to be added to the Badge of the Order, and the Motto,
viz. Nemo me impune lacesset,
which is worn about it in the Royal Arms, was of his Invention. This Prince seems to have been very much honoured in the World; for he wore the Badges of three Orders besides his own;
viz.
That of the
Garter,
conferred upon him by his Uncle, the King of
England
; that of the
Golden Fleece,
by the Emperor, then King of
Spain
; that of St.
Michael,
by the King of
France.
In his Time the
Green Ribband
was worn by the Knights Companions of this Order; but King
James
VII. changed it to the
Blue,
like that of the Knights of the Garter in
England.
After the Union, Queen
Anne,
the Sovereign of both, to distinguish them, restored the Green Ribband, and intended to have called a Chapter of the Order, to bring it once more to its full Lustre, but was prevented by Death.
In this Town the Earl of
Murray,
Lord Regent, was murdered with a Musket-bullet shot by one
Hamilton.
This Earl was a natural Son of King
James
V. and aspiring to the Crown, joined with the Reformers, having first got the Revenues of the Convents of
St. Andrews
and
Pittenweem,
whereof he was Abbot, or Prior, secured to him and his Heirs. His Ambition and Intrigues were the chief Cause of almost all the Troubles of Queen
Mary
's Reign. But I shall have Occasion to mention him in another Place.
At
Linlithgow
is a great Linen Manufacture, as there is at
Glasgow
; and the Water of the Lake here is esteemed so extraordinary for Bleaching or Whitening of Linen Cloth, that a vast deal of it is brought hither from other Parts of the Country for that Purpose. This Lake is situate on the North-side of the Town, and between it and the Palace are Terrace-walks, which are so beautiful, that a more delightful Place can scarce be seen.
In the Year 1722. An Act passed for laying Two-penies
Scots
on every
Scots
Pint of Ale or Beer sold in
Linlithgow,
and its Liberties, in order to repair the publick Buildings, which were run to Decay, such as the Church and Town-house,
&c.
to supply such Parts of the Town with fresh Water, as want it; to pave and amend the Streets, and also the Avenues within a Mile round the Town; for discharging the Town-Debts, and other necessary Purposes. Great Progress was made in these laudable Undertakings by virtue of this Act; but the End being not sufficiently attained, nor likely to be, at the Expiration of the Act, these Duties were farther continued for 21 Years more, by an Act which passed in the Year 1733. which, it is not doubted, will completely answer all the proposed Ends, to the great Advantage of the Town and Country.
Forfichen,
formerly the Residence of the Knights of
Malta,
is two Miles South-west from
Linlithgow.
Near a Place called
Kips,
South from this Town, is an antient Chapel or Altar of great unpolished Stones, leaning so as to support one another. The Vulgar call them
Arthur's Oven
; but the Learned think them to be a Temple of
Terminus,
built by the
Romans
; and others still there are, who conjecture them to be a Temple of the
Celts
or
Druids.
Near this Chapel or Altar is a Circle of great Stones, and on two adjacent Hills are the Remains of old Camps, with great Heaps of Stones, and antient Graves, which some think
Roman
Works.
About four Miles North from
Linlithgow
lies the Castle of
Abercorn,
supposed to be the
Kebercurnig
of
Bede,
where began the
Roman
Wall, thought to be begun by
Severus.
From
Linlithgow
we turned to the Right, and following the
Clyde
upwards, from a little above
Hamilton,
where we were before, we came into the Shire of
Clydsale.
This Tract has some Remains of
Roman
Antiquity; for from
Errick-stone
to
Mauls Mitre,
which borders upon the Shire of
Renfrew,
are evident Footsteps of a
Roman
Causeway for several Miles together; and there is a Tradition, that another
Roman
Street went from
Lanark
to the
Roman
Camp near
Falkirk.
Lanark
is the Capital of this County, but is no extraordinary Town; its Bridge, however, is very remarkable. It was built at a vast Expence by the Inhabitants: But the violent Current of the Water rendering the keeping it in Repair too chargeable for the Town to support, and making it require frequent Reparations, an Act of the
Scotish
Parliament passed,
Anno
1703. impowering them to collect Tolls for Pontage, in order to keep up the same. This Act was in Force for 19 Years, and there was so much Reason for it, and the Bridge was of so great Use to the County, that tho' the Duties expired in the Year 1722. yet the Rates were voluntarily paid for many Years; till some Disputes arising with some selfish Persons, who wanted to reap the Fruits of other Peoples Labour for nothing, an Act was passed, in the 10th of King
George
II. for enabling the Magistrates to repair and maintain so useful a Work. This Act is to continue in Force for 31 Years, and is so reasonable, that it ought, and perhaps will be, perpetuated: For the Rates are only 6
d.
Sterling for every Coach or Chariot drawn by four or more Horses; 2
d.
for every Cart or Wheel-carriage; 1
d.
for every Sledge or Horse loaded or unloaded; Two-thirds of a Peny for every Ox, Cow, or Bull; One-sixth of a Peny for every Calf, Hog, Sheep or Lamb; and the same for every Foot Passenger; who must be a worse Beast than any I have named, to grudge it for so great a Convenience.
A little below this Town the River
Dowglas
falls into the
Clyde,
and gives the Name of
Dowglasdale
to the Lands near it. In a dull Vale near this River stands a very old Castle, which has been the paternal Seat of the great Family of
Dowglas
for above a thousand Years, for which Reason it is still kept in Repair: But by the frequent Additions to the Building, it is become such a wild irregular Mass, that, at a Distance, it seems rather like a Town than a single Fabrick; tho' the Apartments are very noble.
The complete History of this Family would take up a Volume by itself, as it actually has in a late Work, where the Heroes of the Name are fully set forth, and all the illustrious Actions they have been concerned in. I shall only observe, that there are no less than Seven Branches of this Family in the Peerage of
Great Britain,
namely, the Duke of
Dowglas,
who is Chief of the Name, the Duke of
Queensberry
and
Dover,
the Earls of
Morton, Dumbarton,
and
March,
and the Lords
Mordington
and
Forfar,
the latter of whom was unhappily killed at the Fight near
Dumblaine,
against the Pretender.
The Country abounds with Coals, Peat and Limestone; but what turns to the greatest Profit, are the Lead-mines belonging to the Earl of
Hopton
; not far from which (after Rains) the Country People find Pieces of Gold, some of which are of a considerable Bigness. This is thought to be what
Camden
calls
Crawford-Moor,
where
Lapis Lazuli
is daily dug up with little Trouble, as I have said.
Here we left the last-mentioned wild Place on the Right, and went Westward into the Shire of
Peebles.
The first Town we came to of any Note was
Peebles,
which stands on the Bank of the
Tweed,
and is Capital of the County. The Town is small, and but very indifferently built or inhabited, yet there are some good Houses in it. It was formerly remarkable for three Churches, three Gates, three Streets, and three Bridges, of which that over
Tweed
has five Arches.
The Country hereabouts is very hilly; but those Hills are covered with Sheep, which are a principal Part of the Estates of the Gentry. A great Quantity of them are sent into
England,
to the great Damage of the Poor, who are thereby deprived of the Advantage of manufacturing their Wool. They used formerly to export it to
France
; but by the Act of Union, the Exportation of it was prohibited upon the severest Penalties; and to make the Gentlemen of the Southern Counties amends for this Loss, a great Sum of Money was at that time granted them as an Equivalent, as I have mentioned before, to encourage them to set the Poor to work.
This County of
Tweedale
has two remarkable Lakes in it; the one called
West-water Lake,
abounds so with Eels and other Fish, about
August,
that, during a West Wind, they come out in such Shoals into a small River which runs from the Lake, that, we were told, they are ready to overthrow the People who go in to catch them. The other is
Lochgenen Lake,
upon
Genen-hill,
which falls into
Annandale
from a Precipice of 250 Feet high, that many times Fishes are killed by the Fall of the Water.
The
Frazers
were Ancestors by Marriage to the Family of
Tweedale
; and of this Name was that great Captain, who contributed so much to the Victory which the
Scots
obtained in one Day over three
English
Armies at
Rosbin
1301. during
Wallace
's Administration.
Merlin
is said to be buried in the Church-yard of
Drumelzier,
in this County; and according to an old Prophecy,
That the Kingdoms should be united, when
Tweed
and
Pausel
met at his Grave,
they say that it happened so by an Inundation, when King
James
VI. came to the Crown of
England, Anno
1603. the only time, before or since, it ever did so.
Some Remains of Antiquity are visible in this County. The Place called
Randal
's
Trench
seems to have been a
Roman
Camp, and a Causeway leads from it half a Mile together to the Town of
Lyne.
In this County are two very lively Monuments of the Vanity of human Glory. The first is the Foundation of a prodigious Building (more like a Royal Palace, than the Seat of a private Nobleman) begun by the Earl of
Morton,
whose Head was no sooner cut off, than his Design perished; for it has never since been carried on.
The other is the Palace of
Traquair,
built and finished by the late Earl of
Traquair,
for some Years Lord High Treasurer of
Scotland,
and a Person in the highest Posts both of Honour and Profit in the Kingdom, who yet lost all by the Fatality of the Times; for growing into universal Dislike by his Conduct under King
Charles
I. he sunk into the most abject Condition of human Life, even to want Bread, and to take Alms, and died in those miserable Circumstances about a Year before the Restoration. The House is noble, the Design great, and well finished; but the Owner was soon turned out of it by his Enemies, who thought the sparing his Life an Act of great Mercy.
Bishop
Burnet
represents this Earl as a very mean-spirited Man, and one that suffered himself to be made so vile a Tool in other Peoples Mischiefs, that he fell unpitied. 'Tis very remarkable, that he was despised even by the Party which he had served, and but too faithfully adhered to.
Here we saw the Ruins of the once famous Abbey of
Melross,
the Greatness of which may be a little guessed at by the vast Extent of its Remains. One may still distinguish many noble Parts of the Monastery, particularly the great Church or Chapel, as large as some Cathedrals, the Choir of which is visible, and 140 Feet in Length, besides what may have been pulled down at the East-end; and by the Thickness of the Foundations there must have been a large and strong Tower, or Steeple, in the Centre of the Church. There are likewise several Fragments of the House itself; and the Court, and other Buildings are so visible, that 'tis easy to know it was a most magnificent Place in its Day.
Following the Course of the
Tweed,
we passed by abundance of antient Seats of Gentlemen, whose Possessions are large in this Country; such as that of the Family of
Dowglas,
of whom one is called
Dowglas
of
Cavers,
who is Hereditary Sheriff of the County; and who shews the Standard of the brave Lord
Dowglas,
who was killed at the Battle of
Otterburn,
falsely, as the
Scots
say, called
Cheviot Chase
(which I have mentioned in
Vol.
III.) just as he had gained the Victory; as also the Mace of Iron he fought with.
The Country, South-east from
Tweedale,
is called
Tiviotdale,
or the Shire of
Roxburgh.
In which are some Footsteps of
Roman
Encampments, and a Military Way runs from
Hounam
to
Tweed,
called
the
Roman
Causeway,
and vulgarly,
the rugged Causeway.
The Town and Castle of
Roxburgh
are both now demolished. They were famous in the History of both Nations, during their mutual Wars, when the Town was frequently taken and retaken, and in the Siege of which King
James
II. of
Scotland
was killed by the bursting of a Gun.
Jedburgh
is a Royal Burgh, on the River
Jed.
It was one of those Towns that suffered in the Rebellion in 1715. and being beside in Debt, and its Revenue small to answer its Outgoings; and it being well situated for manufacturing coarse Wool; but greatly suffering for want of fresh Water; and its publick Buildings, Bridges, Streets, and Works, greatly out of Repair; for these Reasons, and also to enable the Inhabitants to erect Workhouses,
&c.
for the Manufacture aforesaid, an Act passed 1720. imposing a Duty of Two-penies
Scots
upon every Pint of
Scots
Ale,
&c.
to be vended within the said Town and its Liberties; and it now reaps the good Effects of it.
The Duke of
Roxburgh
has a very great Estate. His Grace's House, called
Fleurs,
has been finely embellished of late Years, and is a noble Seat; and the Country about it, which was formerly wild and rugged, is now greatly impaired and cultivated, and fine Plantations of Trees and Vista's surround the House,
From hence we came to
Kelso,
a handsome Market-town upon the Bank of
Tweed,
which, being so near the
English
Border, and having one of the great Roads from
Edinburgh
to
Newcastle
lying thro' it, which is a nearer Way by far than by that thro'
Berwick,
is a considerable Thorough-fare to
England.
They only want a good Bridge over the
Tweed
; for at present they have only a Ferry just at the Town, and a good Ford thro' the River a little below it.
The Country about
Kelso
is very pleasant and fruitful on both Sides the
Tweed.
The River here does not part
England
from
Scotland
; but you are upon
Scots
Ground for four Miles, or thereabouts, on the South-side of the
Tweed
; and the farther West, the more the
Tweed
lies within the Limits of the Country.
From
Kelso
we went North, where we passed thro'
Lauderdale,
a long Valley on both Sides of the little River
Lauder,
from whence the Family of
Maitland,
first Earls, then Dukes, and now Earls again, took their Title.
The Country is good here, and fenced with Hills on both Sides. The River
Lauder
runs through it, keeping its Course due North.
The Town of
Lauder
is a Royal Burgh, the Seat of the Commissariot; and very pleasantly situated. 'Tis remarkable for the Execution done upon the Minions of King
James
III. who, headed by the Earls of
Angus,
took them out of the Court, and hang'd them over
Lauder-bridge.
The Seat of the noble Family of
Maitland,
Earls of
Lauderdale,
is called
Lauderfort:
It is a stately House, about the Middle of the Valley, on the River, but not large.
We kept the great Road over a high Ridge of Mountains, from whence we had a plain View of
Mid-Lothian.
One of these Mountains is called
Soutra-hill,
and belongs to a Branch of the Family of
Maitland,
the elder Brother of which House was a Gentleman of great Merit, and raised himself by his personal Accomplishments to the highest Posts in the Army. At the Battle of
Treves
in
Germany,
where the
French
Army, under the Mareschal
de Crequi,
was defeated by the
Germans,
commanded by the old Duke of
Zell,
he had the Misfortune to lose one of his Hands, which he supplied with another of Steel, from whence he was called
Handy Maitland.
About the Time of the Union he was Lieutenant-General of the Queen's Armies, Colonel of a Regiment of Foot, and Governor of
Fort-William
and
Inverlochy.
I could not pass this Way to
Edinburgh
without going off a little to the Right, to see two very fine Seats. One of them is an old Abbey belonging to the Marquis of
Lothian,
of the antient Name of
Ker,
a younger Branch of the House of
Roxburgh,
at
Newbottle
; whose Predecessor,
Mark Ker,
being Abbot of it, turned Protestant, and got it settled on him and his Heirs. 'Tis an old Building, but finely situated among the most agreeable Walks and Rows of Trees, all full grown, and contains one of the best chosen Collections of Pictures, Statues, and Busts, in
Scotland.
About a Mile from hence is the Duke of
Buccleugh
's House at
Dalkeith,
without Exception the finest and largest new-built House in
Scotland.
It was built by the late Duchess, Relict of the Duke of
Monmouth,
on the Ground where the old Castle of
Dalkeith
stood, which was the Estate of the Great Earl of
Morton,
Regent of
Scotland,
who was beheaded under King
James
VI. by an Engine he himself had introduced into this Country, as I have mentioned, at
Halifax,
in
Vol.
III. He suffered for being accessory to, and acquainted with the barbarous Design of the Lord
Darnley
's Murder.
This Palace stands on a rising Ground on the Edge of the River
North-Esk,
from whence it overlooks the Plain, with a Majesty like that of
Windsor
on the Bank of the
Thames,
making some Allowance for the Difference of the two Rivers. The Park is very large, and beautified with Water-works,
Jets d' Eau,
and a Canal, the expensive Work of the late Duchess, and the present Duke.
The Inside of this magnificent Palace is answerable to the Grandeur of the Family, being very richly furnished, and adorned with many fine Paintings, especially of the Ladies of the
English
Court, and some Royal Originals.
Just beyond the Park is
Dalkeith,
a pretty large Market-town, and the more considerable for being so near
Edinburgh
; for great Quantities of Provisions are brought hither from the Southern Countries, which are sold here, and afterwards sent to that City.
I will conclude this Letter with the following Inscription on the Tombstone of one
Margaret Scott,
who died in the Town of
Dalkeith February
9. 1738.
Stop, Passenger, until my Life you've read:
The Living may get Knowledge by the Dead.
Five times five Years I liv'd a Virgin Life:
Ten times five Years I was a virtuous Wife:
Ten times five Years I liv'd a Widow chaste;
Now, tired of this Mortal Life, I rest.
I, from my Cradle to my Grave, have seen,
Eight mighty Kings of
Scotland,
and a Queen.
Four times five Years the Commonwealth I saw;
Ten times the Subjects rose against the Law.
Twice did I see old Prelacy pull'd down;
And twice the Cloak was humbled by the Gown.
An End of
Stuart
's Race I saw: No more!
I saw my Country sold for
English
Ore.
Such Desolations in my Time have been,
I have an End of all Perfection seen.
I am, Sir, Yours, &c.
LETTER IV. CONTAINING A Description of the antient
Caledonia,
or Northern Part of
Scotland
; and particularly of the Shires and Towns of
Fife, St. Andrews, Perth, Dumblain, Alloway, Culross, Scone, Angus, Dundee, Montrose, Aberdeen, Buchan, Murray, Elgin, Inverness,
and the
Highlands,
&c.
SIR,
I AM now to enter the true and real
Caledonia
; for that Part of the Country on the North of the Firth of
Forth
is alone called by that Name, and was antiently known by no other.
I crossed the River at
Queensferry,
seven Miles West of
Edinburgh,
into the Shire of
Fife
; and as the most considerable Places in this County are on the Sea-side, or near it, I directed my Journey East along the Coast. The first Place we came to was the Burgh of
Innerkeithin,
an antient walled Town, with a spacious Harbour opening from the East into the River, which has been lately much neglected for want of Trade. The Town however is large, and still populous.
I can't pass over a tragical Story, which happened in this Town in the Reign of the late Queen
Anne.
The Master of
Burleigh
(so the eldest Son of a Lord or Viscount is called, while the Father is living) fell in Love with a young Woman in his Father's Family, but could not prevail with her either to marry him, or to sacrifice her Virtue to him; which being known, she was sent away, and he persuaded to travel. However, before his Departure, he declared she should be his Wife at his Return; and if any one else should marry her in his Absence, he would murder him. This passed without much Notice, and the young Woman was soon after married to a School-master in this Town.
The Gentleman returned, and understanding who was her Husband, went to his House at Noon-day, pull'd out a Pistol, and shot him dead on the Spot, making his Escape unmolested.
But a Proclamation being afterwards issued, with a Reward of 200
l.
for apprehending him, he was at last taken, and tried at
Edinburgh
by the Lords of the Justiciary, and condemned to have his Head cut off. Great Intercession was made to the Queen for his Pardon, which proving ineffectual, he found means to make his Escape out of the
Tolbooth
of
Edinburgh,
disguised in his Sister's Cloaths, the Night before he was to have been executed.
After that, he appeared in the late Rebellion, and was in the Battle of
Dumblane,
or
Sheriffmuir,
but escaped again with his Life, tho' his Estate, which was but small, was forfeited among the rest.
Near
Innerkeithin,
a little within the Land, stands the antient Town of
Dumfermling,
which is now in a very ruinous State. For, 1. Here is a decayed Monastery, which before the Reformation was very large, but then demolished, saving a Part, which was turned into a Parochial Church; and even that is now decayed, and with it the Monuments of several Kings and Queens of
Scotland
; particularly, that of
Malcolm
III. who founded the Monastery.
2. Here is a decayed Court, or Royal Palace, of the Kings of
Scotland
; but by whom built, is uncertain. Almost all King
James
the Sixth's Children were born in it, particularly King
Charles
I. and the Princess
Elizabeth,
afterwards Queen of
Bohemia
; and his Queen made this Place her particular Residence, and had it settled upon her as her Jointure: Here she built herself an Apartment over the Arch of the great Gate for her particular Retirement, having a Gallery reaching from it to the Royal Lodgings. All is now ruinous.
3. Here is a decayed Town, the natural Consequence of the Decay of the Palace. The Treatment King
Charles
II. met with here, from the Covenanters, was sufficient to make him take a Disgust to the Place.
The Church has still a venerable Face, and at a Distance seems a mighty Pile, the Building being once vastly large. What is left appears too heavy for the present Dimensions. The Church itself is said to be as long as the Cathedral of
Carlisle,
designed by the Model of that at
Glasgow
; but I rather think, that at
Glasgow
was designed by the Model of this at
Dumfermling
; for it seems the most antient.
The People are poor, but would be poorer, if they had not the Manufacture of Linen for their Support, the Diaper and better Sort of Linen-trade being carried on here, and in the neighbouring Towns, with more Hands than ordinary. The Marquis of
Tweedale
has a great Estate in these Parts, and is hereditary Chamberlain or Keeper of the Royal House.
The Rocking Stone, near
Balvaird
in
Fife,
was a remarkable Curiosity. It was broken by
Oliver
Cromwell
's Soldiers, and then it was discovered, that its Motion was performed by an egg-shaped Extuberance in the Middle of the under Surface of the upper Stone, which was inserted in a Cavity in the Surface of the lower Stone. As the lower Stone was flat, the upper was globular; and not only a just Proportion in the Motion was calculated from the Weight of the Stone, and the Wideness of the Cavity, as well as the oval Figure of the inserted Prominence; but the vast Bulk of the upper Stone absolutely conceal'd the Mechanism of the Motion; and, the better still to impose on the Vulgar, there were two or three surrounding flat Stones, tho' that only in the Middle was concerned in the Feat. By this pretended Miracle they condemn'd of Perjury, or acquitted, as their Interest or Affection led them; and often brought Criminals to confess what could be no other way extorted from them.
From turning East, we saw many Seats of private Gentlemen, and some of Noblemen, particularly one belonging to the Earl of
Morton,
at
Aberdour
; which fronts the
Firth
to the South, and the Grounds belonging to it reach down to the Shore.
From this Part of the
Firth,
to the Mouth of
Innerkeithin
Harbour, is a very good Road for Ships, the Water being deep, and the Ground good; but the Western Part, which they call
St. Margaret's Bay,
is a steep Shore and rocky, there being 20 Fathom Water within a Ship's Length of the Rocks. So that if a South-east Wind blows hard, it may be dangerous riding in it: But this Wind blows so seldom, that the Ships often venture it.
He that will view the County of
Fife,
which is wedg'd in by the
Forth
and the
Tay,
and shoots out far into the East, must, as I said before, go round the Coast; and yet there are four or five Places of Note in the Middle of the County, which are superior to all the rest, and must not be omitted:
Kinross,
Lessly, Falkland, Melvil, Balgony,
and
Cowpar
; the last a Town, the others great Houses, and one,
viz. Falkland,
a Royal Palace, and once the most in Request of all the Royal Houses in
Scotland.
An
English
Reader will be surprised to hear of such Numbers of Palaces; but however mean our Thoughts may be of the
Scots
Court in antient Times, their Kings had more fine Palaces than most Princes in
Europe
; for in the Time of King
James
IV. they had all in good Repair and in Use, the several Royal Palaces of
Holy-rood-house,
and the Castle at
Edinburgh,
the Royal Palace in the Castle at
Sterling, Linlithgow, Dumfermling, Falkland, Scone,
the Castles of
Dumbarton, Blackness,
and
Inverness.
Besides lesser Seats and Hunting-houses, of which King
James
V. had several; and the several Palaces of Earl
Morton
and others, which were forfeited into the King's Hands.
The South Coast of the County of
Fife
abounds with Towns; and the following Thirteen are Royal Burghs,
viz. Innerkeithin, Bruntisland, Kingborn, Kirkaldy, Dysart, Pittenweem, Anstruther Wester, Anstruther Easter, Kilrinny, Crail, St. Andrews,
all on the Coast,
Dumfermling
and
Cowpar
in the midst of the County. And it contains also these other Towns of Note;
viz. Toryburn, Aberdour,
the two
Weemys's, Levinsmouth, Ely, St. Monan's,
and
Newburg on the Tay:
And it has in it four Presbyteries;
viz.
at
Cowpar, St. Andrews, Kirkaldy
and
Dumfermling.
The Shire itself takes its Name from
Fyfus,
surnamed
Duffus,
to whom it was granted by King
Kenneth
II. for his Valour against the
Picts,
about the Year 840. His Posterity were first called Thanes of
Fife,
and afterwards Earls by
Malcolm
II. about the Year 1057. and endow'd with greater Privileges than any other Earls of the Kingdom, because of their extraordinary Services: A famous Monument of which, was that called
Clan Macduff's Cross,
on the publick Road near
Abernethy,
to which if any within the 9th Degree to the great
Macduff,
who was the chief Instrument of subduing the Tyrant
Macbeth,
should have recourse in case of Manslaughter, he was to be pardon'd on paying a small Number of Cattle. This Monument had an Inscription importing those Privileges, now worn out, and was in such antiquated Terms, mixed with Macaronick, or half
Latin
Words, that few Men now living would have been able to make it out.
From this
Macduff
the Families of
Dowglas, Weemys,
and the Clan
Chattau,
are said to be descended. The Earl of
Rothes
is hereditary Sheriff of
Fife.
Having seen
Aberdour,
I took a Turn, at a Friend's Invitation, to
Lessly
; but by the Way stopt at
Kinross,
where we had a View of two Things worth noting.
First,
The famous Lake or Lough, called
Lough Leven,
in an Island of which stands the Castle, where Queen
Mary,
commonly known in
England
by the Name of Queen of
Scots,
was confined by the first Reformers, being first compelled to quit her Favourite
Bothwell,
and afterwards her Crown; but from which she found means to make her Escape, tho', as it prov'd,
Out of the Frying-pan into the Fire.
The Lough itself is worth seeing; 'tis very large, being above 10 Miles in Circumference, in some Places deep, and famous for Fish. Formerly it had good Salmon, but now chiefly Trouts, Perch, Pikes, and other small Fry; out of it flows the River
Leven,
which runs from thence to
Lessly.
At the West-end of the Lake, (the Gardens reaching down to the very Water's Edge) stands the most beautiful and regular Piece of Architecture (for a private Gentleman's Seat) in all
Scotland
; I mean the House of
Kinross,
belonging to Sir
John Hope Bruce,
Bart. The Town, which has a very good Market and a Street tolerably well built, lies at a little Distance from the House, so as not to obtrude upon its Privacy, and yet so as to be ready to wait upon its Call. 'Tis all Beauty; the Stone is white and fine, the Order regular, the Contrivance elegant, the Workmanship exquisite.
Dryden
's Lines, intended for a Compliment on his Friend's Poetry, are here literally true.
Strong
Dorick
Columns form the Base,
Corinthian
fills the upper Space;
So all below is
Strength,
and all above is
Grace.
Sir
William Bruce,
the Surveyor-General of the Works, the
Wren
of
North Britain,
was the Founder, as well as Architect, of this House. That Gentleman has left many noble Monuments of his admirable Skill and Taste in those Parts; such as the Palace of
Holy-rood
at
Edinburgh
; the House of
Rothes,
and this at
Kinross,
besides several others.
The Situation of this House of
Kinross
would be disliked by some for its being so very near the Water, insomuch that sometimes, when the Lake is swelled by Winter Rains, and melted Snows, it reaches to the very Gardens; but as the Country round is dry, free from stagnated Boggs, and unhealthy Marshes, this is of very little Inconvenience, if any. Sir
William
planted Numbers of Fir-trees upon the Land round his House, which the present Possessor, Sir
John Hope Bruce,
is as careful to improve as his Grandfather was to plant. Posterity will find the Advantage of this Taste, which, if it spreads as it has begun, will in time make
Scotland
a second
Norway
for Fir; for the Lowlands, as well as the Highlands, will be overspread with Timber.
From
Kinross
I came to
Lessly,
where I had a full View of the Palace of the Earl of
Rothes,
built in the Reign of King
Charles
II. by the said Sir
William Bruce.
Here it was King
James
II. when Duke of
York,
lodged, most part of the Time, when he was obliged by his Brother to retire into
Scotland
; and his Apartments are still called the Duke of
York
's Lodgings.
The Magnificence of the Inside of this House is unusually great; but what is very particular, is the long Gallery, which is the full Length of one Side of the Building, and is filled with Paintings, but especially (as that is at
Drumlanrig
) of the great Ancestors of the House of
Rothes,
or
Lessly,
at full Lengths, and in their Robes of Office.
The Rooms of State at
Kinross
are well supply'd with very fine and valuable Pictures, many of which are of Princes,
&c.
but most, if not all the full Lengths in this Gallery of
Rothes,
are of the Family, and the immediate Ancestors, of the present Earl, most of them having been Peers, and possessed of the greatest Places of Trust in
Scotland,
from the Year 1320. to 1725. so that you may imagine there may well be enough to furnish a Gallery.
Tho' the House is magnificent, I cannot say the Situation of it is so advantageous as that of some other Seats; for it has no excellent Prospect from the grand Town, tho' it stands on the Banks of the
Leven
just where another smaller River joins it.
The Park on the South-side is very beautiful, six Miles in Circumference, walled round and diversified with little Woods of Fir-trees, which have Vistas reaching thro' them up to the House. The Gardens are at the East-end of the House, well designed and planted, extending to the Angle where the two Rivers meet; so that they are watered on the North and East-side, and on the South are parted with a Wall from the Park, the West-end of them beginning from the House.
The Town of
Lessly
(seated at a small Distance West from the House, or a little North-west) has a good Market, but is, in no other respect, considerable. The House aforesaid is the principal Glory of the Place.
From
Lessly,
we turn'd South to the Coast, and came to
Bruntisland,
situated in the middle of the North-side of the River
Forth,
just opposite to
Leith
; so that we have from hence a fair Prospect as well of the Road of
Leith,
as of the City and Castle of
Edinburgh.
Here is a very commodious Harbour, which has no Bar, but enters, as if it had been made by Hand, into the Centre of the Town; so that the Ships lie with their broad Sides to the very Houses; and it is the common Port of Safety to all Ships that happen to be forced up the Firth by Storms or contrary Winds: And Ships trading on this Coast frequently winter here. The Water is commonly 18, and at Spring-tides, 26 Feet deep within the Harbour; so that it is capable of receiving and careening the largest Men of War. The Town is adorned also with a beautiful Church, and has a large Town-house and Gaol. But the Harbour having suffered much by Time, and by Storms; and the Church, Town-house and Gaol, becoming ruinous, an Act passed
Anno
1719. for laying a Duty of Two-penies
Scots
upon every
Scots
Pint of Beer,
&c.
sold within the Town and Liberties, for increasing the Revenues, restoring the Harbour, and repairing the publick Structures above-mentioned.
Here is a Manufacture of Linen, as there is upon all the Coast of
Fife,
and especially for Green-cloth, as it is called, which has been several Years in great Demand in
England
for Printing or Painting, in the room of Calicoes, which are prohibited there.
Next to
Bruntisland,
upon the same Coast, is
Kinghorn,
noted for its Thread Manufacture, which the Women chiefly carry on; the Men being generally Seamen upon all this Coast, as high as the
Queen's-Ferry.
Great Numbers of Porpoises are seen almost constantly in this Firth, which the Men make a Practice of shooting, and then bring on Shore, and boil their Fat into Train Oil, as they do Whales, and several other great Fish, which they sometimes meet with thereabout. But the
Firth
affords a much more regular Fishing-trade lower down; of which in its Place.
The Ferry from
Leith
to the Shore of
Fife,
is fixed in
Kinghorn,
which is of considerable Advantage to it; tho' sometimes the Boats by Stress of Weather, are driven into
Bruntisland.
East of this Town is
Kirkcaldy,
a larger, more populous, and better-built Town than the other, and indeed, than any on this Coast. It consists chiefly of one Street running along the Shore, from East to West, a full Mile, very well built. It has some considerable Merchants in it, in the most extensive Sense of the Word, besides others that deal very largely in Corn, exporting great Quantities of it both to
England
and
Holland.
Others again trade in Linen to
England,
who in Return bring back all needful Supplies of foreign Manufactures.
Here are several Coal-pits, not only in the Neighbourhood, but even close to the very Sea, at the West-end of the Town, and where, one would think, the Tide should make it impossible to work them. At the East-end of the Town is a convenient Yard for building and repairing of Ships, and farther on, several Salt-pans for boiling and making Salt.
Dysert
boasts, as I said, of being a Royal Burgh; but notwithstanding it is a very decaying Corporation; the only Support of it is, that the Lord
Dysert,
the Landlord, has a good Salt-work here, and in the Lands adjoining an excellent Vein of
Scotch
Coal; both which are easily put on Ship-board at a small Wharf adjoining. This, I think, is the whole Trade of the Town, except what arises from a few Nail-makers and Hard-ware Workers.
I take the Decay of most of these Sea-port Towns, which 'tis evident have made a much better Figure in former Times, to be owing to the removing of the Court and Nobility of
Scotland
to
England,
which has been doing ever since the Junction of the Kingdoms under the same Prince in
James
I. and VI. and more completely by the Union. Their Sea-port Towns had, before, a Trade; when their Court was magnificent; when their Nobility built fine Houses, and lived in them. They then exported Goods infinitely more in Value, than what they received; and therefore the Balance was evidently on their Side; whereas, now, the Union has open'd a Door to all the
English
Manufactures, and suppressed many of the
Scots
; has prohibited their Wool going abroad, and yet scarcely takes it off at home. If the Cattle are sent to
England,
the Money is too generally spent there likewise. The Troops raised here are in
English
Service, and
Scotland
receives no Premium for the Levies, which she might have done, had they been sent abroad, as the
Swiss
and other Nations do at this time.
But the Benefits that will attend its principal Ports on the Repairs of their Harbour, and publick Structures, by the many Acts already passed, and every Session of Parliament passing, by the Two-penies
Scots
levied for those Purposes, will in time, very probably, turn the Scale in favour of the Union, and increase the Trade of this Part of the United Kingdom, as by virtue of that Act it stands on the same foot of Advantage with
England,
and has so many good Ports, to receive Shipping, and carry on a Commerce with foreign Parts, as well as Coastwise to
England
and
Ireland.
Of this the Towns of
Glasgow, Dundee, Dumfries, Irvin, Dunbar, Pittenweem, Montrose, Inverness, Elgin, Aberbrothock, Bruntisland, Lanark, Linlithgow,
&c. will bear Testimony, as I have and shall observe in their proper Places. Indeed 'tis pity but
Scotland
should find its Account in this respect, in general; for it must be own'd, as I have in part observed before, that it has a plentiful Product for Exportation; and were the Issue of that Product returned and consumed at home, it must necessarily grow rich and flourish.
To take only a short View of the Commodities it exports into foreign Countries,
England
included; for I am now considering
Scotland
as if not united:
Carried to
England
; Corn, Black Cattle, Sheep, Wool; Linen of several Sorts; some Woolen Manufactures, Stockens in particular.
To
Holland, Bremen,
and
Hamburgh
; Corn, Lead, Salt, Coal, barrell'd Pork, and Salmon.
Note, The
Dutch
buy the barrell'd Pork from
Aberdeen
for Victualling their
East-India
Ships, it being much better cured than that from any other Country.
To
Norway,
Salt, Oatmeal, Salmon, Lead, Stockens, and Linen.
To
Sweden, Dantzick,
and
Riga
; Salt, Woolen Manufactures of
Sterling
and
Aberdeen.
To
Spain
and the
Streights
; Herrings pickled; barrell'd and dry'd Salmon; Herrings, and White-fish.
To
France
; Coal, Salt, Lead, Herrings, White-fish, and Wool.
For all these Exportations the Returns are, or at least were, before the Union;
From
England
; Pewter, Block-tin, Wrought Iron, Glass Ware, Sugars, Tobacco, Drugs and Dyers Stuffs.
All the
English
Woolen and Silk Manufactures were prohibited upon the severest Penalties; so that the Returns from
England
in Goods were very small; the grand Return from thence was in Specie: And 'tis known, that above an Hundred Thousand Pounds was paid into
Scotland
every Year for Cattle only.
From
Holland
; some fine Linens; but not much, because of their own. Lace, and fine Threads, Gimp, Incle,
&c. East-India
Goods, Linseed, and Lint, or Flax, Linseed-oil, Train-oil, and Whalebone.
From
Norway,
Pitch and Tar, Deals and Firr Timber.
From
Sweden,
Iron in Bars, and Copper, Deals and Timber.
From
Dantzick, Koningsberg, Riga, Narva,
and
Petersburg
; Plank, call'd East Country Clap-board, or Wainscot, Oak Timber, and in Quarters; Hemp, Pitch, Tar, Turpentine, Sturgeon, and Flax.
From
France
; Wine, Brandy, Apples, (Rennets) Resin, Cork, Paper, Wrought Silks, Raw Silks, Toys, Perfumes,
&c.
From the Royal Canal thro'
France
; Oil and
Italian
Pickles from
Leghorn.
From
Hamburgh
; Staves for Casks, Clap-board,
Rhenish
Wine, and Old Hock.
All these Sorts of Goods are returned into
Scotland,
but the Quantities are very small: The chief Articles, to sum up all in a little, are,
From
England,
Sugar and Tobacco; from
France,
Wine and Brandy; from the East Country, Naval Stores; from
Sweden,
Iron and Copper; from
Norway,
Deals and Timber; from
Holland,
Lint and Linseed.
Now these put together, if I am rightly informed, do not balance the Lead, Coal, and Salt, which they export every Year: So that the Balance of Trade must stand greatly to the Credit of the
Scots
Account, which would be all returned into
Scotland
in
Specie
every Year, if there was not a neighbouring Gulph, into which it is all sunk. And what a Figure would such an Advantage of running Cash be able to make?
I have already touched upon the Advantages, that will probably accrue to
Scotland
by the Method they have fallen upon of augmenting and repairing their Ports and Harbours, by virtue of the Two-penies Tax; and some will further add, to balance the Disadvantages they lie under from the Union, that it is now establish'd in a lasting Tranquillity; and an End put to those Wars that used to lay waste the Borders of both Nations; that this will give Encouragement to the Improvement of the Land, and consequently of raising the Value of Estates; that the Taxes are easy and ascertained; that the Charges of defending the Country both Abroad and at Home lie upon
England
; and the
West-India
Trade abundantly pours in Wealth upon her. And all this is true; but, is it not Pity, for all that, that her own Nobility should not, like true Patriots, lend a helping Hand to the rising Advantage of their own Country, and spend some of the large Sums they get in
England,
in erecting Manufactures, employing the Poor, and propagating the Trade at Home, which they may see plainly has made their united Neighbours of
England
so much exceed them?
But to return to our Travels: We came next to a Village called the
Wester-Wemys,
belonging to the Earl of
Wemys,
whose House stands a little farther East, on the Top of a high Cliff, with its Front looking down upon the Sea. At the West-end of this Cliff, is a small Plain, once a Bowling-green, where the late Earl, being Admiral, had some small Field-pieces planted to answer Salutes. Behind the House is a small and irregular Court-yard, with two Wings of Building, being Offices to the House on one Side, and Stables on the other. Gardens there are none, only a large well-planted Orchard, between which and the House, the Road goes on to
Easter-Wemys.
From thence you come to another Village, called
Buckhaven,
inhabited by Fishermen, who are employ'd wholly in catching fresh Fish every Day in the
Firth,
and carrying them to
Leith
and
Edinburgh
Markets. The Buildings are but a miserable Row of Cottages; yet there is scarce a poor Man in it; but they are in general so very clownish, that to
be of the College of
Buckhaven, is become a Proverb.
Here we saw the Shore of the Sea covered with Shrimps, like a thin Snow; and as you rode among them, they would rise like a kind of Dust, and hop like Grashoppers, being scared by the Footing of the Horse.
The Fishermen of this Town have a great many Boats of all Sizes, which lie upon the Beach unrigged, ready to be fitted out every Year for the Herring Season, in which they have a very great Share.
Beyond this is the
Ely,
a little Town, but a very safe and good Harbour, firmly built of Stone, almost like the
Cobb
at
Lime,
tho' not projecting into the Sea so much as that. It stands a little on the West-side of the Mouth of the
Leven
; the Salmon of which River are esteemed the best in this Part of
Scotland.
To this Town the Earl of
Wemys
brings his Coal, which he digs about two Miles off, on the Banks of the River
Leven
; as also what little Salt he can make. The Coal-works are greatly prejudiced by the breaking in of the Water, notwithstanding the immense Charges they have been at to prevent that Inconvenience.
The People, who work in the Coal Mines in this Country, partly from their Poverty and hard Labour, and partly from the black Hue which they get from the Coal, make such a frightful Appearance, that their own Countryman
Drumond
of
Hawthornden,
in his famous Macaronick Poem, called
Polemo-Middinia,
thus describes them:
Coale-hewers
Nigri,
Girnantes more
Divelli.
From hence we have several small Towns on the Coast, as
Criel
or
Crail, Anstruther
or
Anster,
as 'tis usually called, also the Port of
Pittenweem
; these are all Royal Burghs.
Pittenweem
is a Port and Harbour very conveniently situated near the Mouth of the
Forth,
in the Shire of
Fife
; and great Quantities of Herring, Cod, and other Fish, are taken here. But it has had two great Difficulties to encounter with; that is to say, the low Situation of the Town, close on the Harbour, by which means the Inhabitants were at a great and constant Expence beyond their Ability, to maintain a Pier, and other Works, to defend both the Shipping and its People: The other, that the Entrance was very narrow and strait, and several Rocks lay in the Way of the Shipping, which was a great Hindrance to its Trade and Commerce. But in the Year 1719. an Act passed for laying a Duty of Two-penies
Scots
upon every
Scots
Pint of Ale,
&c.
sold within the Town and its Liberties, for remedying these Inconveniences.
Over-against this Shore, and in the Mouth of the
Forth,
opposite to the Isle of the
Bass,
lies the Isle of
May,
known to Mariners by a Light-house upon it. The only constant Inhabitant is said to be the Man maintained there by the Government to take care of the Fire in the Light-house. It was famous in former Times for barren Women going to St.
Adrian
's Shrine there.
Here the
French
Fleet lay with some Assurance, with the
Pretender
on board, in 1708. when the
English
Squadron approaching, the Four o'clock Gun gave the Alarm; upon which they immediately weighed, got under Sail, and made the best of their Way, the
English
pursuing in vain.
The Shore of the
Firth
or
Frith
ends here, and the
Aestuarium
or Mouth opening, the Land of
Fife
falls off to the North, making a Promontory of Land, which the Seamen call
Fifeness,
looking East on the
German
Ocean, after which the Coast bends away North, and the first Town you come to is
St. Andrew
's, an antient, and once flourishing City, the Metropolis of all
Scotland,
and the Seat of the first University, and before the Revolution an Archbishop's See.
It is remarkable for a fine Situation, surrounded with extensive Corn-fields abounding in excellent Wheat and Barley, and the pleasant Downs, called the
Links,
lying on the Sea-side towards the North. The famous Physician
Cardan
esteemed it the healthiest Town he ever lived in, having Occasion to experience it some Months, when he came over from
Italy,
at the Request of the Pope, to prescribe to Archbishop
John Hamilton,
whom he recovered of a Consumption. And twenty Years before, it had the Approbation of the most eminent Physicians of the Country, when a House was fitted up here for the Reception of
Magdalen,
Daughter of
Francis
King of
France,
who married
James
V. King of
Scotland,
in 1537. but that Lady died shortly after her Arrival at
Holy-rood-house
in
Edinburgh,
and never reached
St. Andrews.
The Town of old consisted of four large Streets lying from East to West, almost parallel to one another. The Northermost of the four, called
Swallow-street,
tho' formerly the principal, is now totally ruined, not so much as one House remaining. The other three by their Regularity do not seem to have been a fortuitous Concourse of Houses, as most of the other Towns of this Country do; all of them terminating Eastward at the Cathedral, which look upon each other, and seem to lament their decaying Condition. For tho' the Town was heretofore about two Miles in Circumference, there remain now hardly 1000 Houses; and of those near 200 are become ruinous, and not habitable. The Number of Inhabitants still amount to above 4000, but many of them have nothing to do; there being neither Trade nor Manufactures in the Place, tho' at the same time it has a Harbour, but capable only of small Vessels. Near the Town is plenty of Free-stone, of which all the Houses are built.
Before the Reformation, this City was crouded both on account of Trade and Religion, Pilgrims coming hither in great Numbers to visit the Relicks of St.
Andrew,
said to be brought over by St.
Regulus,
about the End of the fourth Century, from
Patras
in
Greece,
where that Apostle suffered Martyrdom. Here were three religious Houses, a
Franciscan, Dominican,
and
Augustine
Priory, the last founded by
Robert,
Bishop of St.
Andrews,
who died 1139. and was established upon some of the Revenues formerly belonging to the antient
Culdees
of this Place.
James Stewart,
afterwards Earl of
Murray,
and Regent of
Scotland,
was, in his younger Days, Prior of it. This Monastery was more like the magnificent Palace of a Prince, than a Convent of Monks professing Poverty, as appears still by its Ruins, and particularly by the Wall that encompassed it of fine hewn Stone, with many Battlements and Turrets.
Here is now only one Parish Church, that of the
Holy Trinity,
remaining; but there are two others, which are rather Chapels, one to
St. Salvator's
College; of which, however, no Use is made, it having no Endowment, and the Provost of that College being often a Layman, even in a Presbyterian Sense. The other is the Chapel belonging to
St. Leonard's
College, the Provost whereof must be a Minister.
The Church of the
Holy Trinity
is an antient and stately Edifice built with fine Free-stone in form of a Cross, and has at the West-end a handsome Spire in good Repair. In it is a fine Monument of Archbishop
Sharpe,
who was assassinated upon a Moor, as he was coming Home in his Coach: It was erected by the Archbishop's Son, Sir
William Sharpe,
Bart. who to secure it from the Fate he feared it might be liable to, mortified 6000 Merks to the City of
St. Andrews
to keep it in constant Repair; which has had its intended Effect; for the Magistrates are very careful of it, and would be very severe upon any who should attempt to deface it.
On the North-side of the Town was the old Castle, of which now nothing is remaining but the Walls, built by
Roger,
Bishop of
St. Andrews,
who died 1202. being the second Son of
Robert Beaumont,
Earl of
Leicester,
and Chancellor of
Scotland.
It was repaired by Cardinal
Bethune,
and Archbp.
Hamilton
; the former of whom procured
George Wishart
to be burnt here in the Parade, while from his Window he glutted his Eyes with so horrid a Spectacle; but was himself afterwards assassinated, 1546. in the same Place; to revenge whose Death, the Queen Regent permitted it to be attacked by the
French,
from whom it suffered greatly. But at the Reformation it suffered more, and its Ruin has been completed since the Revolution.
To the East of the Castle are the Ruins of the stately Cathedral founded by Bishop
Arnold,
who died 1163. and finished by Bishop
Lambertoun,
who died 1328. It was in Length from East to West 370 Feet, and the Cross from South to North 180; its Breadth 65, and its Heighth 100 Feet; tho' some draw another kind of Ichnography, and make it seven Feet longer, and two broader, than
St. Peter's
at
Rome
; and for the Height, as well as the Beauty of its Pillars, and the Symmetry and Proportion of the Whole, it was one of the best
Gothick
Structures in the World.
It was sometimes called
Kill-ri-mont,
from the Church built by
Hergust
King of the
Picts
in the fourth Century; but the Name of
St. Andrews
has prevailed for many Ages. The Cathedral was near demolished at the Reformation; but was repaired, in some measure, by the succeeding Archbishops; but since the Revolution it has been intirely in Ruins, as we now see it.
Near the Ruins of the Cathedral are still remaining the Walls of the most antient Chapel of
St. Rule,
with the great square Spire still very intire. It is in Height 105 Feet, and made of such large and durable Stones, that tho' it was built so many Ages ago, yet so little has it suffered by the Injuries of the Weather, that a small Sum would save it from falling for many Ages to come: And as this is probably one of the most antient Monuments of Christianity in
Great Britain,
it is Pity it should go to Ruin for want of a suitable Reparation. This besides would be the most proper Chapel and Chapter-house for the noble Knights of the most antient Order of the Thistle, since under the Patronage of the Apostle St.
Andrew
(whose Relicks were preserved at this Place) that Order of Knighthood had its Rise and Foundation; and by King
James
VII's Letters Patents reviving and restoring this noble Order, which were dated at
Windsor
the 26th of
May
1687. it appears the Knights of the
Thistle,
or St.
Andrew,
formerly held their Chapters in the great Church of
St. Andrews
; which being demolished, his said Majesty ordered them for the future, to be kept at the Chapel Royal of
Holy-rood-house.
This City is famous particularly for its University, consisting of three Colleges, founded by
Henry Wardlaw,
Bishop of
St. Andrews,
in the Year 1412. It obtained very ample Privileges and Immunities from Pope
Benedict
XIII. which were afterwards confirmed to them by King
James
I. of
Scotland,
and by several other succeeding Kings. During Episcopacy the Archbishops were Chancellors of it. The Rector is chosen yearly, and by the Statutes ought to be one of the Principals of the three Colleges here, called
St. Salvator's, St. Leonard's,
and the
New College.
St. Salvator's
College was founded by
James Kennedy,
Bishop of
St. Andrews, Anno
1448. who erected the Edifice, furnished it with costly Ornaments, and endowed it with sufficient Revenues for a Doctor, a Batchelor, and Licentiate of Divinity, four Professors of Philosophy, and eight poor Scholars. The Earl of
Cassils
settled a Maintenance for a Professor of Philosophy. It has a good Library founded by Dr.
Sheen.
The Edifice itself is a most stately Pile of fine hewn Stone, has a large vaulted Chapel covered with Free-stone, and over it is a very lofty Spire. The common Hall and Schools are vastly large; and the Cloisters and private Lodgings for Masters and Scholars have been very magnificent and convenient; but the Fabrick is of late become very much out of Repair, nor is the College Revenue able to support it.
St. Leonard's
College was founded by
John Hepburne,
Prior of
St. Andrews,
in the Reign of King
James
V. with Salaries for a Principal or Warden, four Professors of Philosophy, and eight poor Scholars. A Professor of Philology was added by Sir
John Scot
of
Scots-tarvet,
with a liberal Salary. He also augmented the Library very considerably; and Sir
John Wedderburn,
at his Death, left a great Collection of Books to it.
Fordun's
MS. of the
Scotish
History is in this Library.
The
New College
was founded by Archbishop
Bethune,
Uncle to the Cardinal of that Name, with Endowments for a Principal and Professor of Divinity, and some Students in the same Faculty; for no Philosophy is taught in this College.
These last two Colleges, having a better Revenue to support them, than that of
St. Salvator,
are in much better Repair. In the latter, King
Charles
I. held a Parliament, in a large spacious Room able to seat 400 Persons in regular Order, and it still retains the Name of the
Parliament Room.
A Professor of Mathematicks was of late Years added to this University; as was also, not long since, a Professor of Medicine, with a handsome Endowment by his Grace
James
Duke of
Chandos
; whom the University, upon the Death of the Duke of
Athol,
in Gratitude, chose to be their Chancellor; which Office is during Life; and to that alone, and that of his Vice-Chancellor, belongs the conferring of all University Degrees.
Mr.
James Gregory,
Professor of Mathematicks in this University, famous for his Knowledge in that Science, has erected in the College Gardens, a commodious Observatory, and furnished it with good Mathematical Instruments.
It has produced many learned Men; among others, the famous Lord
Napier,
who invented the Logarithms, Sir
Robert Murray,
Sir
Andrew Balfour,
and the great Lawyer Sir
George Mackenzie.
The Harbour here has suffered so much by the Encroachments of the Sea, that I fear it will never be sufficiently repaired. The Pier is founded upon a Rock of Free-stone, in Length about 440 Feet; but this Rock extends itself into the Sea 500 Feet further, on the Point of which stands a Beacon; and the great Rolling of the Sea, breaking over the Rock, between the Pier-end and this Beacon, makes the Harbour very dangerous. In the Year 1728. it was proposed to be repaired, and the Pier carried as far as the Beacon, and a Brief was granted for that Purpose. But the Collections were too small to make any great Advances.
By all we have said, it will appear, that this antient City, and its University too, are in a very declining State. The Archbishop's Seat, and Ecclesiastical Courts kept there, beside the great Resort of Pilgrims to the Convents, brought great Business thither, which being now disused, and one new College erected at
Edinburgh,
and another at
Aberdeen,
contribute much to the Decay of both. The City enjoys still some Privileges by the original Charter, yet extant, whereby it was incorporated by King
David, Anno
1153.
From
St. Andrews
we proceeded on to two very agreeable Seats belonging to the present Earl of
Leven
; one called
Melvil,
and the other
Balgony. Melvil
is a regular and beautiful Building, after the Model of Sir
William Bruce
's House at
Kinross,
described before.
Balgony
is an antient Seat, formerly belonging to the Family of
Lessly
; and if not built, was inlarged and repaired by General
Alexander Lessly,
noted for his Services in
Germany,
under
Gustavus Adolphus,
King of
Sweden
; and at last, against King
Charles
I.
The River
Leven
runs hard by the Walls of the House, and makes the Situation very pleasant. The Park is large, but not well planted; at least, the Trees do not thrive.
From hence we went North to
Cowpar,
the Shire Town, and turned to the North-east Part of the Country, to see the Ruins of the famous Monastery of
Balmerinoch,
of which Mr.
Camden
takes Notice; but we saw nothing worth our Observation, the very Ruins being almost eaten up by Time. The Monastery was founded by Queen
Ermengred,
Wife of King
William
of
Scotland.
Hence we came to the Bank of another
Firth,
called the
Firth
of
Tay,
which opening to a large Breadth at its Entrance, as the
Firth
of
Edinburgh
does, draws in afterwards, as that does at the
Queen's-ferry,
and makes a Ferry over at the Breadth of two Miles to the Town of
Dundee
; and then the
Firth
widening again just as that of the
Forth
does also, continues its Breadth from four to six Miles, till it comes almost to
Perth,
as the other does to
Sterling.
This River
Tay
is, without Exception, the largest River in
Scotland,
tho' not of the longest Course; for it rises out of the Mountains, near the Edge of
Argyllshire
; and running first North into the District of
Braidalbin,
there receiving many other Rivers, spreads itself into a large Lake, called
Lough Tay,
extending near 40 Miles in Length, and traversing the very Heart of
Scotland,
comes into the Sea near this Place: Now, as I design to keep in this Part of my Work to the East Coast of the Country, I must for the present quit the
Tay,
keeping a little on the hither Side of it, and go back to that Part of the Country which lies to the South, and East of
Dumbarton
or
Lenoxshire
; so drawing an imaginary Line from
Sterling-bridge,
due North, thro' the Heart of the Country, to
Inverness,
which I take to lie almost due North and South.
In this Course I moved from the Ferry mentioned above, to
Perth,
lying upon the same
Tay,
but on the hither Bank. It was formerly called
Johnston,
or
St. John's Town,
from an old Church, dedicated to the Evangelist St.
John,
which is still remaining, and so big as to make two Parochial Churches, and can serve the whole Town for their publick Worship.
Perth
is the second Town of
Scotland
for Dignity. Near it stood antiently the Town of
Berth,
which being overflowed by an Inundation of the
Tay,
occasioned the building of this, where it now stands.
The chief Business of this Town at present is the Linen Manufacture; which is so considerable here, that all the neighbouring Country is employed in it, and it is the Wealth of the whole Place. The
Tay
is navigable up to the Town for Ships of good Burden; and they ship off here vast Quantities of Linen, for
England.
The Salmon taken here, and all over the
Tay,
are extremely good, and the Quantity prodigious. They carry them to
Edinburgh,
and to all the Towns where they have no Salmon, and barrel up great Quantities for Exportation: The Merchants of this Town have also a considerable Trade to the
Baltick
and
Norway.
This Town was for some time the Seat of the late Rebellion; but by a peculiar Felicity the Townsmen got so much Money by both Parties, that they have ever since been enriched by it, as appears not only from particular Families, but from the publick and private Buildings which they have raised since that time; particularly a new
Tolbooth
or
Town-hall.
It will seem a little strange to us in the South, that any Place should be enriched by a Rebellion; but a few Words will explain it. It must be observed, that the
Pretender
and his Troops having their Quarters hereabouts a considerable time, occasioned a great Consumption of Victuals and Drink, which are so plentiful in these Parts, that 'tis frequent for Towns to petition the Government to have Regiments of Soldiers quarter'd upon them; tho' in
England
nothing gives greater Uneasiness.
Again, as the
Pretender
was here and at
Scone,
it occasioned a great Confluence of Persons of Note, who gathered about him, waiting the Issue of his Fortunes, till they found the Storm gathering from the South, and no probable Means to resist it, and then they shifted off as they could.
While they resided here, Lodgings in the Town lett at such a Rate, as was never known before; Provisions were dear, Trade brisk; and had it lasted two or three Months longer, it would have made all the Towns rich in the Neighbourhood.
When this Cloud was dispersed, the Victors enter'd; new Officers succeeded the routed Party. Still the Head Quarters were here; and afterwards the
Dutch
Troops continued here most Part of the Winter. All this while the Money flowed in, and the Town made their Market on both Sides; they were Gainers even by War and Foreigners!
The Linen Trade, which we have mentioned before, has mightily increased since the Act of Parliament in
England,
for suppressing the Use of printed Calicoes; in the room of which
Scotch
and
Irish
Linens have been bought and printed in
England:
So that the Worsted and Silk Weavers in
London
seem to have had very little Benefit by the Act.
At
Ardock
in
Perthshire
are the Remains of a
Roman
Camp; and near
Perth
is a
Roman
Way, where several Medals, sepulchral Urns, and other Monuments of Antiquity, have been found.
From
Perth,
I went South to that Part which they call
Clackmanan,
lying West from
Dumfermling,
and extending itself towards
Sterling
and
Dumblain,
none of which Part I had gone over before.
North-eastward from
Perth
to
Brechen
lies a Vale which they call
Strathmore,
esteemed the most fruitful in Corn of all that Part of the Country: Here are a great many Gentlemens Seats, tho' on the North-side of the
Tay,
particularly the noble Palace of
Glames,
the Hereditary Seat of the Family of
Lyon,
Earls of
Strathmore.
The Heir in Reversion now enjoys the Title and Estate, tho' it very narrowly escaped being forfeited; for the elder Brother entertained here the
Pretender
very magnificently, making up for him and his Retinue fourscore and eight Beds, and afterwards espoused his Cause so strenuously, that he lost his Life in his Service, at the Battle of
Sheriff-muir.
The Estate, being entailed, descended to the second Son, or younger Brother, who is now Earl of
Strathmore.
It is one of the finest old-built Palaces in
Scotland,
and by far the largest. When you see it at a Distance, it is so full of Turrets and lofty Buildings, Spires and Towers, some plain, others shining with gilded Tops, that it looks not like a Town, but a City; and the Appearances seen thro' the long Vista's of the Park are so different, that you would not think it the same House any two Ways together.
The great Avenue is a full half Mile, planted on either Side with several Rows of Trees. When you come to the outer Gate, you are surprised with the Beauty and Variety of the Statues and Busts, some of Stone, some of Brass, some gilded, some plain. The Statues in Brass are four, one of King
James
VI. one of King
Charles
I. booted and spurred, as if going to take Horse at the Head of his Army; one of King
Charles
II. habited like that in the
Royal Exchange, London
; and one of King
James
VII. after the Pattern of that which is at
Whitehall.
From hence I came away South-west, and crossing the
Tay
below
Perth,
but above
Dundee,
came at last to
Dumblain,
a Town pleasantly situated, on the Banks of the River
Allan
; but without any sort of Trade. It contains the Ruins of a Church of excellent Workmanship; but within our own Memory it was made famous by the Battle fought between the Army of King
George
I. under the Command of the Duke of
Argyll,
and the
Pretender
's Forces under the Earl of
Mar,
on
Sheriff-muir,
between this Place and
Sterling.
We took a full View of the Field of Battle, and could not but reflect with Surprize, that a Rabble of
Highlanders
appearing in Rebellion, armed in Haste, and headed by a Person of no Experience in War, should come so near to the overthrowing an Army of regular disciplined Troops, and led on by experienced Officers, and so great a General.
From hence I proceeded on in Sight of
Sterling-bridge
; but leaving it on the Right-hand, turned away East to
Alloway,
where the Earl of
Mar
had a noble Seat, and where the Navigation of the
Firth
of
Forth
begins. This is, as I hinted before, within four Miles of
Sterling
by Land, and scarcely within 24 by Water, occasioned by those uncommon Meanders and Reaches in the River, which gives so beautiful a Prospect from the Castle of
Sterling.
This fine Seat was formerly called the Castle of
Alloway,
but is now so completely modernized, that no Appearance of a Castle remains.
The Gardens of
Alloway
House are by much the finest in
Scotland,
and not out-done by any in
England,
consisting of above 40 Acres of Ground; and the adjoining Wood, which is adapted to the House in Avenues and Vistas, above three times as much.
Here is a Harbour where Ships of Burden safely ride. The
Glasgow
Merchants have erected Ware-houses, to which they bring their Tobacco and Sugars by Land, and then ship them for
Holland
or
Hamburgh,
or the
Baltick,
or
England,
as they find the Market.
The High-street of
Alloway
reaches down to this Harbour, and is a very spacious, well-built Street, with Rows of Trees finely planted all the Way. Here are several Testimonies of the Goodness of their Trade, as particularly a large Deal-yard, or Place for laying up all Sorts of
Norway
Goods, which shews that they have a Commerce thither. They have large Ware-houses of naval Stores; such as Pitch, Tar, Hemp, Flax, two sawing Mills for cutting or slitting of Deals; and a Rope-walk, for making all Sorts of Ropes and Cables for rigging and fitting Ships; with several other Things, which convinces us they are no Strangers to other Trades, as well by Sea as Land.
East from
Alloway,
is a small County, called
Clackmannanshire,
from the Head Burgh, and is Part of
Fife.
The Country is plain, the Soil fertile; most of it proper for Pasture; and what lies below the
Orchil-hills,
producing Corn very well. But the Shire is chiefly known for yielding the best of Coal, and the greatest Quantity of it, of any Country of
Scotland
; so that it is carried, not only to
Edinburgh,
but also to
England, Holland,
and
France.
But while the Freight from
Scotland
is so dear, and the Tax in
England
so heavy, the Price of these Coals must always be so high at
London,
as will not fail to restrain the Consumption.
On this Shore of the
Firth,
farther down, stands the neat and agreeable Town of
Culross,
lying in Length by the Water-side, like
Kirkaldy,
being likewise a Trading Town, as Trade must be understood in
Scotland.
Here is a pretty Market, a plentiful Country behind it, and the navigable
Firth
before it. The Coal, the Linen Manufacture, and Plenty of Corn, will always keep something of Trade alive upon the whole Coast.
Here is a very noble Seat belonging to the
Bruces,
Earls of
Kincairn,
and is well worth a Traveller's Notice; and indeed these Instances of Magnificence are so frequent in
Scotland,
that were we to dwell upon each of them, such of our Readers as know nothing of
Scotland
would be apt to think we were too partial in its Favour. But it is certain, that no Gentry or Nobility in the World exceeded the
Scots,
while an independent Kingdom, in noble Houses, and all manner of Magnificence; as their Families for Antiquity of Descent hardly have any Equals in any one Country on Earth.
Culross
is a Royal Burgh in the Shire of
Perth,
but in the Confines of
Fife,
famous for a Branch of the Iron Manufacture in making Girdles,
i. e.
broad round Plates, on which they bake their oaten Cakes. They told me of Mines of Copper, and of Lead, lately discovered in
Fife,
and of Silver also: But I could not learn that any of them were actually wrought. It is, however, not improbable, but that there are such Mines; and particularly the two
Lomons,
which are remarkable Mountains in this Shire, seem to promise Metal in their Bowels, if they were thoroughly searched. They rise up like two Sugar-loaves in the Middle of a plain Country, not far from
Falkland,
and give a View of the
Firth
of
Edinburgh
South, and the
Firth
of
Tay
North, and are seen from
Edinburgh
very plain.
Having made this little Excursion to the South from
Perth,
you may suppose me now returned Northward again; and we proceeded to
Scone,
that antient Seat of Royal Ceremony, where almost all the Kings of
Scotland
were crowned, since the Conquest of the
Picts.
The celebrated Wooden Chair, with the Stone in it, was brought away from hence, as is well known, by the victorious King
Edward
I. and placed in
Westminster-Abbey,
where it now is; but the
Scotish
Royal Blood succeeding to the
English
Crown, in the Person of King
James
I. of
England,
and VI. of
Scotland,
verify'd the following prophetick Distich, tho' at the Time, it was accounted no small Loss and Disgrace to the Kingdom. The Lines were these:
Ni fallat Fatum, Scoti quocunque locatum
Invenient Lapidem, regnare tenentur ibidem.
Thus translated by the
Scots:
Unless old Prophets fail, and Wizards Wit decay,
Where-e'er this Stone is found, the
Scots
shall reign for ay.
It is said to have been first dignified by K.
Kenneth,
who having fought a bloody Battle here with the
Picts,
in which he gave them a great Overthrow, sat down to rest him upon this Stone, after he had been tired with the Slaughter of the Enemy; upon which his Nobles came round him to congratulate his Success; and in Honour to his Valour, crowned him with a Garland of Victory; from whence he dedicated the Stone to the Coronation of all the future Kings of
Scotland,
hoping from this Omen, that they should, like him, be victorious over all their Enemies.
But the better Sort of
Scots
Historians say, their Kings brought it from
Ireland
into
I-Colm-Kill
in the Isles, and from thence to
Scone
or
Scoon,
when they had subdued the
Picts.
The Palace of
Scoon,
tho' antient, is not so much decay'd as those I have already spoken of; and the
Pretender
found it very well in Repair for his Use. Here he lived and kept his Court, in all the State and Appearance of a Sovereign; but it was a short-lived Splendor; for in 20 Days he was obliged to quit the Kingdom, by the Advance of the Royal Army. In this Palace is the longest Gallery in
Scotland,
and the Ceiling painted, but the Painting very old.
The Building is large, the Front being above 200 Feet; it has two extraordinary fine square Courts, besides others, which contain the Offices, Outhouses,
&c.
The Royal Apartments are spacious and large; but the whole Building is intirely after the antient Manner.
From
Scoon
to
Dunkeld
is so little a Way, that we could not help visiting it, being the Place where a Skirmish was fought between the Forces of King
William,
after the Revolution, and some of the Viscount of
Dundee
's Men, who pursued the King's Forces, as they were obliged to retire from
Gillicranky,
after Lord
Dundee
himself had been killed there. The Duke of
Athol
has a noble old House here, in one of the Courts of which that Part of the Action happened.
Here was formerly a beautiful and magnificent Cathedral Church, dedicated to St.
Columba,
the Seat of a Bishop, whose Chapter or Prebendaries were
Culdees,
or
Black Monks
; but they are now dissolved, and most Part of the Church in Ruins.
Dunkeld
is the chief Market-town of the
Highlands,
and supposed to have been formerly the chief Town of
Caledonia.
It is situated on the Northside of the
Tay,
at the Foot of the
Grampian
Hills, and is surrounded with pleasant Woods.
Upon the River
Tay
also lies
Errol,
the Seat of the Earl of that Name, chief of the antient Family of
Hay,
who derive their Origin from a famous Peasant, who in the Reign of
Kenneth
III. being at Plough with his two Sons, and perceiving the
Scots
fleeing before the
Danes,
he and his two Sons stopt their Flight, renew'd the Battle, and gained the Victory; for which they had the Lands of
Errol
bestowed upon them; and the Family Arms is three bloody Shields, supported by two naked Men with Yokes, in Remembrance of this famous Victory; the Father and two Sons having no other Weapons when they put themselves at the Head of the flying
Scots,
but the Yokes they took from their Ploughs. Of this Family are, besides the Earls of
Errol,
the Marquis of
Tweedale,
the Earl of
Kinnoul,
&c.
But our determined Rout lay up the Eastern Shore, and thro' the Shires adjacent on that Side, as particularly
Angus, Mearns, Marr, Aberdeen, Buchan,
and so, as I laid it out before, to
Inverness.
Mr.
Camden
tells us, That the
Firth
of
Tay
was the utmost Boundary of the
Roman
Empire in
Britain:
That
Julius Agricola,
the best of Generals, under
Domitian,
the worst of Emperors, tho' he pierced farther, and traversed by Land into the Heart of the
Highlands,
yet seeing no End of a barbarous Country, and no Advantage by the Conquest of it, withdrew, and here fixed the
Roman
Eagles; that he frequently harassed the
Picts
by Excursions and Inroads, but always returned to his Post here, making the
Tay
his Frontier.
But our
English Caesars
have outgone the
Romans
; for
Edward
I. as is said before, passed the
Tay,
and rifled the Abbey at
Scoon
; and, if we may believe History, penetrated into the remotest Parts, which, however, I take to be only the remotest Parts of what was then known to the
English
; for as to the
Highlands,
the Mountains of
Loquhaber, Ross, Murray, Sutherland,
and
Caithness,
we read nothing of them: From these Retreats the
Scots
always returned,
Antaeus
like, with double Strength after every Defeat; till in the next Reign they overthrew his Successor
Edward
II. at
Bannockbourn,
and drove the
English
out of the whole Country; following them over
Tweed
into
England,
and ravaging the Counties of
Northumberland
and
Cumberland.
Oliver Cromwell,
indeed, (according to the Motto of a noble House in
Scotland, Rode Through
) penetrated to the remotest Part of the Island; and that he might even literally rule it with a Rod of Iron, built Citadels and Forts in all the Angles and Extremes, where he found it needful to place his stationary Legions, just as the
Romans
did; as at
Leith,
at
St. Andrew's,
at
Inverness, Perth, Aire,
and several other Places. We have since seen the Forces of King
George
I. making the same Rout, nay, ferrying over into the Western, and North-western Islands; here again imitating the Prudence of the old
Romans,
who employ'd their Soldiery in mending Roads, and making Causeways over Mountains, that were before thought inaccessible.
Where Armies have marched, there's Room enough, no doubt, for Travellers. With this Assurance therefore, we chearfully crossed the
Tay.
We left
Strathern,
with the little Country of
Menteith
; for our Return, and went down into
Angus
to
Dundee,
a pleasant, large, populous City, which as it stands well for Trade, so it has as large a Share of it, as most Towns in
Scotland,
and that as well Foreign as Domestick.
It is exceeding populous, full of stately Houses, and large handsome Streets; particularly four very good ones, with a large Market-place in the Middle, the largest and fairest in
Scotland,
except that of
Aberdeen.
The Inhabitants have a very large Correspondence with
England,
and ship off a great deal of Linen thither; and a great Quantity of Corn is sent from hence to
England,
as well as to
Holland.
They have likewise a good Share of the
Norway
Trade; and as they are concerned in the Herring Fishery, they consequently have some East Country Trade,
viz.
to
Dantzick, Koningsberg, Riga,
&c. They send Ships also to
Sweden,
and import Iron, Copper, Tar, Pitch, Deals,
&c.
from the several trading Ports of that Kingdom.
The Country behind them called the
Carse,
or the
Carse of Gowry,
with the Vale mentioned above of
Strathmore,
abounds in Corn, which the Port of
Dundee
ships off in large Quantities, when a Crop allows it, to the great Advantage of the Gentlemen as well as Farmers; for as the Gentlemen receive all their Rents in Kind, they would find a great Difficulty sometimes to dispose of it, if the Merchants here did not ship it off, either for
London
or
Amsterdam.
The Town of
Dundee
stands at a little Distance from the
Tay
; but they are joined by a Causeway or Walk, well paved with flat Free-stone, such as the Side-ways in
Cheapside
and
Cornhill
; and Rows of Trees are planted on either Side of the Walk, which makes it very agreeable. On one Part of this Walk are very good Warehouses for Merchandizes, especially for heavy Goods; and also Granaries for Corn of which sometimes they have a vast Quantity laid up here; and these, being near the Harbour, are convenient, as well for the housing of Goods, when landed, as for the easy shipping off what lies for Exportation.
The Harbour of
Dundee
was formerly very good and safe; but of late Years became so ruinous and choaked up with Sand, that it would not contain, as antiently, Ships of Burden, except at the highest Tides; and its Piers were so out of Repair, that Ships could not lie in it with Safety. At the same time the Tolbooth and publick Gaol were so much decay'd, that they were obliged to be pulled down; and the Town, being greatly in Debt besides, could not rebuild the same. Wherefore, to answer all these good Purposes, and to pave the Streets, discharge their Debts, and provide Salaries for School-masters to instruct their Children, an Act passed,
Anno
1731. for continuing the Duties imposed by a former Act, then near expired, of Two-penies
Scots,
upon every Pint of Ale and Beer sold within the Town and its Privileges, for 25 Years longer. And the Inhabitants now reap the Benefit of it, and will still more, when the proposed Works are absolutely perfected.
This Town was storm'd and plunder'd of great Riches by
Cromwell
and the
English
Army.
The great Church was formerly collegiate, and a very large Building; but part of it was demolished in the Civil War; the Remainder is divided into three Churches for the present Use of the Citizens.
They have also a Meeting-house or two for the Episcopal Worship; for you are to take it once for all, that North of
Tay,
there are far more of the Episcopal Persuasion than are to be found in the South; and the farther North, the more so.
The Tower upon the great Church here is a handsome square Building, large and antient, and very high, and is a good Ornament to the City: It resembles the great Tower upon the Cathedral of
Canterbury,
but not quite so high. There is a fine and well-endowed Hospital for decay'd Townsmen of
Dundee,
where they are well taken care of, and provided for. The
Pretender
was in this City soon after his Landing, and staid here some time, before he advanced to
Scoon.
It was the Birth-place of
Hector Boetius,
the
Scots
Historian; a Man famous in his Time, and whose Work was antiently more in Esteem, than of late. It gave the Title of Viscount to
Graham
of
Clavers,
who commanded the Forces that appeared for the late King
James
at the Revolution, and was killed at the Battle of
Gillicranky,
which I have mentioned.
Near to
Dundee,
in the Mouth of the River, lies
Brochty-craig,
formerly well-fortify'd, and noted now for a noble Salmon-fishery in its Neighbourhood.
It is 20
Scots
Miles from
Dundee
to
Montrose,
the Way pleasant, the Country fruitful, and filled with Gentlemens Houses. Among these is the noble Palace of
Panmure,
forfeited in the late Rebellion by the unfortunate Earl of that Name, who was wounded in the Fight near
Dumblain.
The Surname of the Family is
Maul
; and
Maulsburgh,
a small Town near
Montrose,
is called from it.
The Town and Port of
Montrose
was our next Stage, standing upon the Eastmost Shore of
Angus,
open to the
German,
or the
Caledonian
Ocean, and at the Mouth of the little River of
Southesk,
which makes the Harbour.
This Town is well situated for Trade, and has a good Harbour, and the Inhabitants always carried on an advantageous Trade with
Norway.
But as it was still capable of great Improvements, were a Dock to be made for the Conveniency of Shipping; and if good fresh Water could be procured for it, of which it stood in very great Want; and the two Hills that defend the Town against Inundations, having also suffered by Tempests; the Corporation procured an Act,
Anno
1719. for laying a Duty of Two-penies
Scots
upon every Pint of Ale,
&c.
sold within the Town and its Privileges, for effecting these good Purposes.
The Town is adorned with fine Buildings, and has an Hospital for the poorer Inhabitants. It gives Title of Duke, as it did formerly of Earl and Marquis, to the Chief of the antient and noble Family of
Graham.
The
French
Fleet first made Land at this Port, when they had the
Pretender
on board, in the Reign of Queen
Anne,
having over-shot the Mouth of the
Firth
so far, whither they at first designed; but this Mistake, which some thought a Misfortune, was certainly a Deliverance to them; for as on one hand it gave time to the
English
Fleet to come up with them before they could enter the
Firth,
so it left them time and room also to make their Escape; which, if they had gone up the
Firth,
they could never have done, but must inevitably have been burnt and destroyed, or taken by the
British
Fleet under Sir
George Byng,
which was superior to them in Force.
The Royal Burgh of
Aberbrothock
on this Coast, besides being famous for the stately Ruins of the greatest Abbey in
Scotland,
deserves to be mentioned for its convenient Situation for Trade; which induced, some Years since, the Inhabitants to lay the Foundation of a new Harbour, the old one being so decayed, that it was hazardous even for small Vessels to sail into it. But the Work exceeding their Abilities, they procured Contributions towards so good a Design; but still all proving short of what was requisite to complete the Work, and the Town having run itself into Debt by what it had done, and at the same time the publick Streets and Causeways, as well as the Town-house and Gaol, being in a very ruinous Condition, they procured an Act to pass in the 11th of King
George
II. for laying a Duty of Two-penies
Scots
upon every
Scots
Pint of Ale or Beer sold within the Town and Liberties, which was to commence in
May
1738. and to continue for 25 Years, for bringing to Effect these good Purposes. And we may say, that of late so many of these Acts have passed, that
Scotland
will in a few Years, if harassed by no intestine Broils, and continuing in Peace, make a better Figure than it has done for Centuries past.
The Abbey was formerly endowed with great Revenues by King
William
I. who was buried here under a stately Monument.
In the inner Parts of the Shire, to the Westward, is
Forfar
the County Town, and
Brechin
formerly a Bishop's See, made so by K.
David,
and where some Part of a small Cathedral is still standing. It is seated upon the River
Southesk,
over which it has a stately Bridge of two Arches, and is considerable for its Salmon and Cattle-markets. It is also memorable for a great Victory obtained here over the
Danes,
by the Chief of the Family of
Keith,
Earl Mareschal, who having killed their General, was advanced to great Honours by
Malcolm
II. There was a high Stone erected over the Grave of the
Danish
General, which is still called
Camus's Cross,
from his Name; and at 10 Miles Distance is another Cross, over the Grave of another eminent
Danish
Warrior; and both of them have antique Letters and Pictures upon them.
From
Montrose
the Shore lies due North to
Aberdeen:
In the Way is the Castle of
Dunnoter,
once a strong Fortification upon an high Precipice of a Rock. The Castle was surrounded with invincible Walls, (said the honest
Scot,
who shewed us the Road to it) having Towers at proper Distances, after the old Way of fortifying Towns. The Earl Mareschal, of the Name of
Keith,
was Lord of this Castle, as also of a good House near it, and a great Estate: But what he had, is now gone; for, being in the Rebellion, his Estate was forfeited, and his Lordship, making his Escape, went into the Service of
Spain,
in which he still continues. But we ought to observe, that his Brother, going into the Service of
Russia,
made such a Figure there, that he is a Lieutenant-General in that Empire, and greatly esteemed for his personal Bravery and Conduct. This Gentleman making, lately, a Visit to
England,
was received with great Marks of Distinction and Favour, by the Court and Nobility; and may be truly said to be one of the best Generals that the late Czarina, who yet had many excellent Commanders, had Reason to boast of.
Dunnoter
Castle is now demolished. It is situated in the Shire of
Kincardin
called the
Merns.
The County is noted for its Timber, having in it upwards of Five Millions of Fir-trees, besides vast Numbers of other Kinds, planted within these 70 Years by the Gentry, at and about their Seats, and which they are yearly adding to, and improving.
Kincardin
was formerly the County-town; but that Advantage now, by Statute, belongs to
Stonehyne.
Innerbervy,
on the Coast, was made a Royal Burgh by King
Alexander
III.
Paldykirk,
so called from
Palladius,
first Bishop of the
Scots,
is noted for its annual three Days Fair: The principal Commodity brought to it is coarse Cloth, which is commonly transported to the
Netherlands.
On the Lands of
Arbuthie
and
Redeloak,
are some Trenches to be seen, cast up by the
Danes
at one of their Invasions: And round the Hill of
Urie
is a deep Ditch, where the
Scots
encamped.
Fordun
lies also in this County, famous in antient Times for the Reliques of the aforesaid St.
Palladius.
It is also noted for being the Surname of
John Fordun,
the
Scots
Historian, Author of the Book called
The Scots Chronicon,
to which all succeeding Historians of this Nation have been much obliged.
The Earl Mareschal was hereditary Sheriff of this Country.
We proceeded then to
Aberdeen,
a Place so eminent, that it commands some Stay upon it. It stands at the Mouth of two Rivers, and is divided into two Towns or Cities, one called the
New,
the other the
Old Aberdeen,
about a Mile distant from each other; one situate on the River
Don,
the other on the River
Dee,
from whence they are more properly called
Aberdon
and
Aberdeen.
Aberdon,
or the
Old Town,
lies a Mile Northward from
Aberdeen,
or the
New Town,
and is sometimes called
Bon-accord,
from its Motto. It is situated in the Mouth of the River
Don,
which is remarkable for the Multitude of Salmon and Perch taken in it.
The
Old Town
must, without doubt, be very antient; for they tell us the
New Aberdeen
is supposed to be upwards of 1200 Years old, tho' none of their Registers mention the particular Time of its being built, or by whom. The Cities are not equally situated for Trade, one of the Rivers being broader than the other; and it is the common Opinion, that Part of the old City, called
the Monastery,
was washed down by the Sea, so that it obliged the Citizens to build farther off: That accordingly they built the
New Aberdeen
upon the Bank of the other River, upon a Piece of hilly Ground: But this is all Conjecture, and has Probability only for its Support.
Old Aberdeen
was formerly the Bishop's Seat, and has a Cathedral, commonly called
St. Machar
's, a large and stately Structure, which was antiently much more magnificent: it suffered greatly at the Time of the Reformation, and more since the Revolution.
The chief Ornament of this Town is the
King's College
on the South Side of it, a neat and stately Structure.
The Church and Steeple are built of hewn Stone, and the Summit of the latter resembles an Imperial Crown. The Windows of the Church were formerly esteemed for their Paintings; and something of their Splendor still remains. In the Steeple are two Bells of extraordinary Bigness, besides others.
Close to the Church is a Library well furnished with Books.
This College was founded by Bishop
Elphinston,
in the Year 1500. and the greatest Part built by him; but King
James
IV. taking the Patronage upon him, it was called
The King's College.
The Bull for it was procured from Pope
Alexander
VI. in 1510. endowing it with as ample Privileges as those of
Paris
and
Bononia.
There are in this College a Principal, a Sub-principal, who is also one of the Regents, three other Regents, or Professors of Philosophy, a Professor of Humanity or Philology, a Professor of Divinity, a Doctor of Physick, a Professor of the Oriental Tongues, a Professor of the Civil Law, and a Professor of the Mathematicks. Dr.
Frazer
has lately been a great Benefactor to it.
New Aberdeen
is about a Mile distant, as we have said, from the
Old,
situated at the Mouth of the River
Dee.
It is the County Town, and by Consequence the Seat of the Sheriffs Courts. It exceeds all the Cities in the North of
Scotland
for Largeness, Extent and Beauty. It stands in a wholsome Air, has a great Revenue from its Salmon-fishery, and the Inhabitants are generally very courteous. It stands upon three Hills; the main Part upon the highest, and the Skirts of it extend into the Plain. The Houses are neatly built, are generally four Stories high, or more, and have for the most part Gardens and Orchards belonging to them, which makes the City pleasant and healthful, and the Prospect of it beautiful at a Distance.
From a round Hill, at the West End of the City, flow two Springs, one of clear Water, and another with Water, which, in Taste and Quality, comes very near the
Spaw
in
Germany:
Dr.
William Barclay
wrote a Treatise concerning it.
In the High-street is a Church built of Free-stone, and good Architecture.
In this City stands the
Marshal College,
founded by
George
Earl Marshal, in the Year 1593. to which the City has added many Buildings at their own Charge.
In this College, which is a distinct University of itself, are a Principal, four Professors of Philosophy, a Professor of Divinity, and a Professor of Mathematicks, and there is lately added a Professor of Physick. It has a very good Library, which was founded by the City, inlarged by the Gifts of several learned Men, and furnished with Mathematical Instruments.
In this City is also a Grammar School, founded by Dr.
Dune,
having one Master and three Ushers. There is also a Musick School.
The Church called
St. Nicolas
's, is a handsome Edifice of Free-stone, with a lofty Steeple, resembling a Pyramid; it was formerly divided into three Churches. The Body of this Church is adorned with a Tower, and a Steeple with Pinacles.
Here is also a Prison and a Work-house belonging to the Town, likewise an Alms-house, and three Hospitals; and near the Harbour stands the Custom-house. The Market-place is very beautiful and spacious, and the Streets adjoining are very handsome, and most of the Houses are built of Stone, four Stories high, with handsome Sash-windows, and are very well furnished within; the Citizens here being as gay, as genteel, and perhaps as rich, as in any City in
Scotland.
The Bridge at
Old Aberdeen,
over the
Don,
consists of one immense Arch of Stone, sprung from two Rocks, one on each Side, which serve as a Buttment to the Arch, so that it may be said to have a Foundation coeval with Nature, and which will last as long. The other Bridge is upon the River
Dee,
West above
New Aberdeen,
and has seven very stately Arches.
The People of
Aberdeen,
and indeed of almost all this Country, are generally of the Episcopal Persuasion; so that, were it not for the legal Establishment, the Presbyterian Preachers would have but few Hearers, and slender Incomes: Almost every Parish has a Meeting-house, where the Liturgy is read: At
Aberdeen
and
Peterhead
they have beautiful Chapels, and even Organs.
Near the City is a stately Stone Bridge of seven Arches over the
Dee,
built by Bishop
Gawin Dumbar.
The Air of this County, to those who were born in a hotter, seems cold, but is in itself healthful and temperate. The Winter is milder than can be expected from such a Climate, which seems a Wonder to
Danes, Poles,
and
Prussians,
when they come into this Country, and consider that with them, during the Winter, there is nothing but perpetual Frost and Snow. The Soil in general is not unfruitful, if duly cultivated; it produces Wheat, Rye, Barley, Oats in abundance, Pease and Beans; nor do they want Roots and Herbs for Food and Physick; and foreign Plants grow very well there, as daily Experience testifies. The mountainous Part of the County affords very good Pasturage, and the other as good Corn.
The adjoining Sea not only furnishes them with plenty of Fish, but reproaches them with their Negligence, when they see the
Dutch
Fleets continually fishing on the Coasts, from whence they reap great Gain; but 'tis the Humour of the Inhabitants to apply themselves to the Salmon-fishing, and to neglect that of all other Sorts.
The Quantity of Salmon and Perches, taken in both Rivers, is a kind of Prodigy. The Proprietors are united into a Company, there being so many Shares, of which no Person can enjoy above one at a time. The Profits are very considerable, the Salmon being sent abroad into different Parts of the World, particularly into
England, France,
the
Baltick,
and several other Places.
The Herring-fishing is a common Blessing to all this Shore of
Scotland,
and is like the
Indies
at their Door, were it properly used, by the
Scots
in general: But I must observe, that by this, however, the Merchants of
Aberdeen
are able to carry on a Trade to
Dantzick
and
Koningsberg, Riga
and
Narva, Wybourgh
and
Stockholm.
They have also a very good Manufacture of Linen, and likewise of Worsted Stockens, which they send to
England
in great Quantities, and of which they make some so fine, that I have seen them sold for 14, 20, and 30 Shillings a Pair. They also send them over to
Holland,
and into the North and East Seas, in large Quantities.
They have also a particular Export here of Pork, pickled and packed up in Barrels, which they sell chiefly to the
Dutch
for the victualling their
East-India
Ships and their Men of War, the
Aberdeen
Pork having the Reputation of being the best cured, for keeping on very long Voyages, of any in
Europe.
They export also Corn and Meal; but they generally bring it from the
Firth
of
Murray,
or
Cromarty,
the Corn coming from about
Inverness,
where they have great Quantities.
In a word, the People of
Aberdeen
are universal Merchants, so far as the Trade of the Northern Part of the World will extend; and it may be esteemed the third City in
Scotland,
that is, the next after
Edinburgh
and
Glasgow.
This Shire contains in it
Mar,
with its Appurtenances,
Birse, Glentaner, Glenmuick, Strathdee, Strathdon, Braes
of
Mar
and
Cromar,
most part of
Buchan, Formartin, Garioch,
and
Strathbogy.
The latter is a large and antient Barony, watered by the Rivers
Dovern
and
Bogy
; it was erected into an Earldom by King
James
VI. in favour of the Chief of the noble and antient Family of
Gordon,
whom he afterwards created Marquis of
Huntley. Strathbogy
is very fruitful in Corn and Pasturage, and is remarkable for the fine Linen-yarn spun by the Women there, and sold to the Merchant.
It is mostly inhabited by
Gordons,
Vassals to the Duke of
Gordon,
who has a magnificent Castle here, called
Strathbogy,
from the Name of the County. There are of this Name, besides the Duke, the Earls of
Sutherland, Aboyn, Aberdeen,
and late Viscount of
Kenmure
; likewise a great many Gentlemen of Note in other Parts of the Kingdom.
The County of
Mar
gave Title of Earl to the Chief of the Family of
Erskine.
The Sheriffdom is the King's Gift.
In
Aberdeenshire
are Quarries of spotted Marble and Slate, and Pearls are found in their Rivers of a large Size, and fine Colour.
There was formerly a Mint at
Aberdeen,
as appears by several Pieces of Coin with the
Aberdeae
upon them, kept in the Closets of the Curious.
Other Towns in this County are;
1.
Kintore,
a Royal Burgh on the
Don,
which gives the Title of Earl to a Branch of the Family of
Keith.
2.
Inverary,
made a Royal Burgh by King
Robert Bruce.
3.
Peterhead,
with a good Harbour.
We ought not to omit, that on the 30th of
October
1721. an accidental Fire broke out in
Aberdeen,
whereby the Commissary-Clerk's Office was suddenly consumed, and at the same time the Registers and Records of all Testaments and Confirmations, all Acts of Curacy, Judicial Deeds, and other Writs and Evidences,
&c.
were intirely burnt and destroyed; which unhappy Accident being likely to be attended with pernicious Effects to Persons Rights and Properties, an Act passed 8
George
I. for supplying the Records so burnt or lost; and another in the 9th of the same Reign, for making the former more effectual.
The Town of
Aberdeen
had suffered much by the publick Commotions in
Scotland,
after the Revolution took place, so that an Act for laying the Duty of Two-penies
Scots
on every
Scots
Pint of Ale and Beer sold within the Town,
&c.
had been imposed by the
Scotish
Parliament in 1695. and continued by the same in 1707. for enabling them to discharge the Debts incurred on that Occasion. And the last Act being near expired, and Debts still remaining unpaid, an Act passed 1731. for continuing the said Duties, for the following good Purposes;
viz.
for paying off the remaining Debts of the Town; for building a new Pier on the North-side of the Harbour, for repairing the old Pier on the South-side, which was very much sunk and decay'd; for repairing the great Church, called the
Old Church,
which was in a very decayed Condition; for rebuilding the Town-house, which was also in a very bad State; and for maintaining and carrying on other publick Works for the Benefit of the Town. This Act is to remain in Force for 25 Years; and it may be easily judged, that the Town of
Aberdeen
will be much improved, when the proposed Works are all absolutely completed.
From
Aberdeen
the Coast goes on to a Point of Land, which is the farthest North-east Part of
Britain,
and is called by the Sailors
Buchanness,
being in the Shire or County of
Buchan,
Part of which belongs to
Aberdeenshire.
It was to this Point the
French
Squadron, with the
Pretender
on board, in the Reign of Queen
Anne,
kept their Flight in Sight of the Shore, being thus far pursued by Sir
George Byng
with the
English
Fleet; but from hence they steer'd away North-east as if for the
Norway
Coast, when the
English
Admiral, seeing no Probability of coming up with them, gave over the Chace; but they altered their Course in the Night, stood away South, and came back to
Dunkirk,
whence they set out.
On the South-side of the Water of
Eugic
stands
Peterhead,
with a Road which will hold 100 Sail of Ships; and at this Place it is High-water, when the Moon is directly South. In many Places of this Shire are great Stones placed circularly, one of the largest in the Middle towards the South, which have the Air of Places of Worship in the Ages of Heathenism. The dropping Cave of
Slanes
is very remarkable, of the petrify'd Substance whereof is made excellent Lime.
This Country, however remote, is full of Nobility and Gentry, and their Seats are seen even unto the extremest Shores: The Family of
Frazer
carries its Name to
Frazerburgh,
in the very Northermost Point of the Country.
Ereskines,
Earls of
Marr,
had their Family-seat at
Kildrummy,
in the County of
Marr,
a little South of this Part of the County, where the late unhappy Earl first set up his Standard for the
Pretender.
The
Hayes,
Earls of
Errol,
are in
Buchan
; and the Family of
Forbes
Lord
Forbes,
and
Forbes
Lord
Pitsligo,
are still farther, and the latter on the very Shore of the
Caledonian
Ocean. The
Gordons
and
Keiths
are very numerous also in these Parts.
Mr.
Camden
relates, that on the Coast of this Country a great Piece of Amber was driven on Shore by the Force of the Sea, as big (to use his own Words)
As an Horse.
I shall add nothing to the Story, because it is hard to give Credit to it: it is enough that I name my Author; for I could not learn from the Inhabitants, that they ever saw any more of it.
I ought not to omit
Innerury,
belonging to
Garioch
in
Aberdeenshire,
being the
Scotsman
's Boast; for here
Robert Bruce,
tho' sick, and carried in a Horse-litter, defeated
John Cummins,
and those who adhered to him, in Favour of
Edward
I. of
England
; who held
Scotland
in Subjection. This was the first Victory King
Robert
obtained, and laid the Foundation of the Overthrow of the
English
Usurpation in
Scotland.
Near the same Place also in 1411.
Alexander Steuart,
Earl of
Mar,
defeated
Donald
of the Isles, in the bloody Battle of the
Harlow.
From hence, the East Shore of
Scotland
being at an End, the Land tends away due West; and the Shire of
Bamff
beginning, you see the Towns of
Bamff, Elgin, Frazersburg,
and the famous Monastery of
Kinloss,
where the murdered Body of King
Duff
was after many Years dug up, and discovered to be his by various Tokens.
The Shire of
Bamff
deserves some Notice for the following Particulars; for that in it is situated
Strathyla,
which drives a great Trade in Lime, and fat Cattle; and it abounds so with Lime-stone, that they build their Houses with it. They carry on a Trade in fine Linen also, by means of their weekly Markets at
Keith,
a neighbouring Village. Upon the Banks of the
Spey,
which runs thro' this County, lies the
Bog of Gicht,
now called
Gordon Castle,
the noblest Palace in the North, being the Duke of
Gordon
's chief Seat, adorned with pleasant Gardens, and a great Park. The Castle appears so large, that it looks more like a Town than a Nobleman's Seat. The Duke is Proprietor of this Part of the County.
Strathave
is the paternal Inheritance of his Family: And his Grace has a fine Estate, and other Seats hereabouts. The late Duke had a little embroiled himself with the Affairs of 1715, and his Son, then Marquis of
Huntley,
still more; but got off without a Forfeiture, by his Prudence and good Fortune.
The Town of
Cullen,
an antient Royal Burgh, stands in the Shire of
Bamff.
It is chiefly noted for its fruitful Soil, and Salmon-fishing; for having no Port, it has little Trade, except for its Corn and Salmon.
The Shire itself takes Name from
Bamff,
a Burgh Royal, seated at the Mouth of
Doverne
in the
Boyne,
where the Sheriff holds his Courts. In it are the Ruins of an old Castle, near which is the Abbey of
Deer,
formerly belonging to the
Cistercian
Monks, and founded by
William Cumin,
Earl of
Buchan.
In
Belvenie
is found the Stone of which Alum is made, and in the County of
Boyne
great Quarries of spotted Marble have been discovered.
Buchan
is Part in
Aberdeenshire,
Part in the Shire of
Bamff,
one of its principal Towns is
Frazersburgh,
and
Peterhead
is another. The latter is a good Market-town, with a Port, and small Harbour with two little Piers for Fishing; but being so near
Aberdeen,
has not those Helps and Advantages, that might be otherwise probably given to it; so that at low Water it is all dry, and the smallest Ships lie aground in it.
The Earl of
Saltoun
has very lately built, (1738) at
Frazersburgh,
a most excellent new Pier and Bulwark, all of Free-stone; which renders that Harbour as safe and commodious as any on the East Coast; so that 30 Ships may winter there at once, with great Safety: The Water at full Sea is 18 or 20 Feet.
From the Point of Land, called
Buchanness
the Ships begin their Accounts for their several Voyages; what they call their Departure: As in
England,
they do from
Wintertonness,
on the North-east Part of
Norfolk,
and from the
Downs
for the Voyages to the Southward.
From
Fifeness,
which is the Northermost Point, on the Mouth of
Edinburgh Firth,
being the Southermost Land of
Fife
to this Point of
Buchanness,
the Land lies almost due North and South, and the Shore is the Eastermost Land of
Scotland.
The Distance between them is 33 Leagues, 1 Mile, which is just 100 Miles; tho' the Mariners say, that measuring by the Sea, it is but 28; and from
Wintertonness,
near
Yarmouth,
to this Point call'd
Buchanness,
is just 300 Miles.
The River or
Firth
of
Tay
opens into the Sea, about four Leagues North from
Fifeness
; and as there is a Light-house on the
Isle of May,
as I have said before, in the Mouth of the
Firth
of
Forth
at
Edinburgh,
a little South of this Point, call'd
Fifeness
; there are likewise two Light-houses at the Entrance of the
Firth
of
Tay,
for the Directions of the Sailors, when they are bound into that River, and particularly for their avoiding the two Sands, which lie off from the South-side of the Entrance.
Buchanness
is generally also the first Land of
Great Britain,
which the Ships make in their Voyages Home from
Archangel
in
Russia,
or from their Whale-fishing Voyages to
Greenland
and
Spits-bergen
in the North Seas: And near this Point, at
Pitsligo,
a great Ship was cast away in Queen
Elizabeth
's Time, bound Home from
Archangel,
having on board the first Embassador sent by the Great Duke of
Muscovy
to any of the Christian Princes of
Europe,
he being commissioned to treat with Queen
Elizabeth
for a League of Peace and Commerce. He likewise lost a most valuable Present, designed for the Queen, of rich and costly Furrs, in those Days, reputed inestimable. The Embassador was happily saved, and brought on Shore by the People of
Pitsligo
; but the Ship and all the Goods were lost.
From this Point of Easterly Land all that great Bay, or Inlet of the Sea, reaching quite to the North of
Scotland,
is called
Murray Firth,
and the Northermost Point is
Dungsby-head,
which is the North-east Point of
Caithness,
and opens to
Pentland Firth.
By
Pentland Firth
you are to understand the Passage of the Sea beyond
Caithness,
between
Scotland
and the Isles of
Orkney.
What is call'd
Murray Firth,
is not, like many others, the Mouth of a River, as that of
Edinburgh
or
Tay,
but is an open Bay in the Sea, as the Bay of
Biscay,
or the Gulph of
Mexico
are; and reaches, as I have said, from
Peters-head,
to
Dungsby-head,
opposite to the
Orkneys,
the Distance of 79 Miles; but it is almost twice as far by Land, because of the Depth of that Bay, which obliges us to travel from
Pitsligo
West, near 70 Miles, till we come to
Inverness.
This County of
Buchan
is more to be taken Notice of from what is to be seen on the Sea Shore than in the Land; for the Country is mountainous, and in some Places not very fertile; but as we coasted along West, we came into a much better Country, particularly the Shires of
Bamff,
which I have already mention'd,
Elgin,
and the County of
Murray,
from whence the Bay I just now described, is called
Murray Firth.
Murray
is a pleasant Country, the Soil fruitful, water'd with fine Rivers, and full of good Towns, and Gentlemens Seats more than could be expected in so remote a Part of the Kingdom.
This Country is a Plain for between 20 and 30 Miles together, and the Soil is by that means render'd more fruitful and rich, and the Temperature of the Air more soften'd, than in other Parts of
Scotland
; insomuch that the Harvest here, and in the Vale of
Strathbogy,
and all the Country to
Inverness,
is observed to be more early than in
Northumberland,
nay, than in
Derbyshire,
and even some Parts of the more Southerly Counties in
England
; as particularly in the East of
Kent
and
Sussex.
As a Confirmation of this, I affirm that I have seen the new Wheat of this Country and
Inverness
brought to Market to
Edinburgh,
before the Wheat at
Edinburgh
has been fit to reap; and yet the Harvest about
Edinburgh
is thought to be as forward as in most Parts, even of
England
itself. In a Word, it is usual in
Murray
and the Country about it, to begin with their Harvest in the Month of
July,
and it is not very unusual to have new Corn fully ripe and thresh'd out, shipped off, and brought to
Edinburgh
to Sale, within the Month of
August.
The River
Lossie
in this County is famous for Salmon; there being annually pickled and exported from 80 to 100 Lasts, all taken in a few Months of the Summer, and in a Space of one Mile, at a Village called
Germach.
It abounds with Fish to the very Head; but still the greatest Quantity is used for home Consumption, and taken either with hooked Tridents by Day, or Wicker Baskets, or little Boats covered with Hides, by Night. None but the Natives, who are used to them, will venture into those Boats. The common Drink in these Parts is Ale, and sometimes Beer, and they have good
French
Wine very cheap, as I and my Company experienced; but the Inhabitants prefer
Aqua Vitae
of their own extracting from Ale-dregs and Spices, to much richer Wines than the
French
; of this they drink plentifully themselves, and are very liberal of it to their Friends. And a Bottle of this Liquor, and some Cheese, will make a
Murray
Man undertake the greatest Winter-Journeys, without wishing for any other Provision.
This County is divided into two Shires; the greater, called the Shire of
Elgin
; the other, the Shire of
Nairn.
The Town of
Nairn
lies on the Mouth of the River of that Name; along which lie the Seats of many Persons of Quality.
Near the Castle of
Caddel
or
Calder,
on that River, is a Vein of Free-stone, and many Signs of Copper.
Tarnaway
Castle, on the River
Findorn,
in this County, is an old Castle and Seat belonging to the Earls of
Murray.
A little lower on the other Side, stands the Burgh of
Forress,
in an exceeding pleasant Situation. The Kings of
Scotland
formerly resided here, in a Castle that is now gone to Ruin; and lower, formerly, stood the noble Abbey of
Kinloss.
On the Road to
Forress
is a large Pillar of one Stone, being a Monument of a Victory obtained by King
Malcolm Mac Kenneth
over
Sueno
King of
Denmark
; the Inscription is now worn out. Betwixt this Place and
Elgin,
are numberless Seats of the Quality.
In this rich County, on the River
Lossie,
which rises a few Miles above it, and empties itself into the Sea a few Miles below it, lies
Elgin,
formerly a Bishop's See. It is situated in a very fruitful Soil, tho' somewhat sandy. The Ruins of the Castle are still to be seen on the East End of the Town; tho' demolish'd so long ago, as the Wars of the
Danes.
There was a noble Cathedral here, which for Largeness, Splendor, Magnificence and Workmanship, had hardly its Equal in the Kingdom. The usual Place of Residence of the Bishop was at the Castle of
Spynie,
within a Mile of the Town, a very noble Seat, with fine Gardens and Woods.
But tho' the Town of
Elgin
has Reason to be proud of its Situation, it was not very rich in its Town Revenues; for it had long laboured under heavy and burdensome Debts; which being increased by the Rebellion in 1715. put a Stop to divers of its new publick Works, and made several others run into Decay. At the same time the River
Lossie
having very insufficient Banks, the Chanel of it became choaked with Sand, which made it subject to overflow; and moreover, the Harbour of
Lossie
itself, which may be called the Port of
Elgin,
lying not far from it, became ruinous and decayed, to the great Prejudice of Persons trading in the
Murray
Firth, as well as to the Town. For all these Reasons, and in order to inlarge and improve, as well as repair, the said Harbour of
Lossie,
an Act passed in the Year 1721, laying a Duty of Two-penies
Scots
on every
Scots
Pint of Ale or Beer, that should be vended within the said Town and its Liberties; so that it bids fair to make as flourishing a Figure as it has done for Centuries past.
Above
Elgin, Forress
and
Nairn,
lies that Part of the Country called,
The Bra
of Murray,
no way comparable to the lower Part for Fruitfulness; and beyond this are Mountains, Woods, and green Valleys; particularly
Strathherin,
well inhabited, and abounding with little Towns and Villages, and
Strathnairn,
a still better Soil, and possessed by several Gentlemen.
Strathherin
also abounds with Lakes, Mountains and Streams.
In this County lies
Lochmoy,
with an Island, where the Laird of
Mackintosh
(a Name well known in
England,
as well as
Scotland,
by means of the famous Brigadier of that Name, who was taken Prisoner at the Battle of
Preston,
escaped out of
Newgate,
and lately died in Peace in
Scotland
) has his Seat. This Tribe is called
Clan Chattau
; and are numerous in this County.
But to say a few Words more of
Elgin,
before we leave this County: Gentlemen of all Parties and Opinions, as if this Town was the Court for this Part of the Island, leave their Highland Habitations in the Winter, and come to live at
Elgin,
with very engaging Freedom; so that it is a Place of greater Resort than could be imagined, at the Distance of 450 measured Miles from
London,
and more, if we must go by
Edinburgh.
This rich Country continues with very little Intermission, till we come to
Strathnairn,
or the Valley of
Nairn,
where it extends a little farther in Breadth towards the Mountains, and is not inferior to the other in Fruitfulness: From the western Part of this County you may observe that the Land goes away again to the North; and, as if you were to enter into another Island beyond
Britain,
you find a large Lake or Inlet from the Sea of
Murray,
going on West, as if it were to cut through the Island; for we could see no End of it, nor could some of the Country-people tell us how far it reached, but that it went beyond
Lochaber:
So that we thought, till our Maps and further Inquisition informed us, it had joined the Western Ocean.
After we had travelled about twelve Miles, and descended from a rising Ground, upon which we then were; we perceived the Lake contracted in one particular Place to the ordinary Size of a River, as if designed by Nature to give Passage to the Inhabitants to converse with the Northern Part; and then it opened again to its former Breadth, and continued in the Form of a large Lake, as before, for many more Miles than we could see; being in the Whole, according to Mr.
Camden,
23 Miles long; but if it be taken on both Sides the Pass, 'tis above 35 Miles in Length.
This Situation must necessarily make the narrow Part a most important Pass, from the more Southerly Parts of
Scotland
to the Northern Countries, which are beyond it. We have been told, the
Romans
never conquered thus far, and the Conquests of
Oliver Cromwell
have been much magnified on this Account; but if what Mr.
Camden
records, and is confirmed by other Accounts from the Men of Learning and Observation, be true, this must be a Mistake; for we are told, that near
Bean
Castle in the County of
Nairn,
there was found, in the Year 1406. a fine Marble Vessel curiously carved, which was full of
Roman
Coins of several Sorts; also several old Forts or Mounts have been seen here, which, by their Remains, evidently shewed themselves to be
Roman.
I now entered the Shire of
Inverness,
abounding with large Woods of Firr and Oak, and having in it some Iron Mines. It contains
Badenock, Lochaber,
and the South and West Parts of
Rosse,
and the Isle of
Sky
; of all which I shall speak, as they offer in the Course I took.
In the narrow Pass mentioned above, over the Lake stands the Town and Fortress of
Inverness,
that is, a Town on the inner Bank of the River
Ness.
The Situation of it (as I have said before) intimates, that it is a Place of Strength; and accordingly it has a Castle, founded in antient Times to command the Pass: And some Authors write, that it was antiently a Royal House for the Kings of
Scotland.
Be that as it will,
Oliver Cromwell
thought it a Place of such Importance, that he built a strong Citadel here, and kept a stated Garison always in it, and sometimes more than a Garison; finding it needful to have a large Body of his old veteran Troops posted here to preserve the Peace of the Country, and keep the
Highlanders
in Awe, which they did effectually all his Time.
It is observed, that at the End of those troublesome Days, when the Troops on all Sides came to be disbanded, and the Men dispersed, abundance of
English
Soldiers settled in this fruitful Part of the Country, from whence it received two Advantages:
1. They learnt the Art of Husbandry in full Perfection, which they did not understand before; which, with the Help of a rich Soil, has rendered this Part of the Country more fruitful than the rest of
Scotland
to this Day. And to this it is in some measure owing, that the Harvest is so early, and the Corn so good, as is observed above.
2. As
Cromwell
's Soldiers initiated them thus into the Arts and Industry of the Husbandman, so they left them the
English
Accent upon their Tongues, which they likewise preserve to this Day; for they speak perfect
English,
even much better than in the most Southerly Provinces of
Scotland
; nay, some will say, as well as at
London
itself.
Their Tongue is not only
Anglicised,
but their Palates too; their Way of Eating and Cookery, Dress and Behaviour, is according to the Southern Mode: I wish they do not, in time, degenerate into Luxury, and forget that military Original which first reformed them.
The Fort which was then built, and afterwards demolished, has been restored since the Revolution, and a Garison was always kept here by King
William,
for the better regulating the
Highlands
; which Post was of singular Importance in the Time of the Insurrection of the Earl of
Marr
for the
Pretender
; when, tho' his Party took it, they were driven out again by the Country with the Assistance of the Earl of
Sutherland,
and several other of the Nobility and Gentry, who stood fast to the King's Interest.
Inverness
may be said to be a pleasant, clean, and well-built Town. There are some Merchants in it, and it has a good Share of Trade. In it the Sheriff keeps his Court. It consists of two large handsome Streets, and has a stately Stone Bridge of seven large Arches over the River
Ness,
where (as I said before) it grows narrow between the Sea and the Lake. The Water of this River is almost always warm, and all the Year long is never so cold as to freeze; nay, in the sharpest Winter, if Cakes of Ice are thrown into it, they will be quickly thaw'd by its Warmth. Small Vessels may come up to the Town; but larger Ships, which often come thither for Corn, are forced to lie at some Distance East from it.
But it has been lately improved, and is still farther improving; for in the Year 1718 an Act passed, for laying a Duty of a Sixth of a Peny Sterling on every Pint of Ale,
&c.
sold within the Town and its Privileges, for building a Church and making a Harbour there. The Preamble to the Act, giving a Description of the Place, and the Reasons of applying for it, I shall insert, and is to the following Effect:
That the Town of
Inverness
is situate near the Sea, and very capable of Improvements in its Trade and Commerce, and having but a very small publick Revenue, incumbered with Debts, and those increased by the Expence the Inhabitants were at in opposing the Rebellion of 1715. And the Church of the said Town, beside, being ruinous, was not large enough to contain the Inhabitants; for the effecting of these good Purposes the said Act was passed.
This Act was to be in Force for 19 Years only; and the first five Years it produced so well, that the Magistrates of
Inverness
entered upon a Design greatly to inlarge and improve their Harbour; in order to which they purchased Grounds, rented Quarries, built Boats for transporting Stone, deepened their Harbour, erected Bulwarks and Quays; so that it was made much more commodious than ever: But the next 13 Years the Produce of the Duties was so low, occasioned by the excessive Use of run Tea and Brandy, which People could buy so cheap, that the Consumption of Beer and Ale was greatly lessened, and they having run much behind-hand, were forced to apply for a further Continuation of the Act; and accordingly, in the 11th Year of King
George
II. an Act passed for continuing the same for 21 Years more, for paying the Debts contracted, and effecting the other good Purposes I have mentioned. Which, when done, will make
Inverness
a Place of as great Account as any in the North of
Scotland.
When we are over the Bridge of
Inverness,
you enter that which we truly call the North of
Scotland,
and others the North
Highlands
; in which are several distinct Shires, but cannot call for a particular Description, because they are all one undistinguished Range of Mountains and Woods, overspread with vast and almost uninhabited Rocks and Steeps filled with Deer innumerable of various Kinds; among which are some of those the Antients called
Harts
and
Roebucks,
with over-grown Stags and Hinds of the Red-deer Kind.
Before I describe this frightful Country, it is necessary to observe, that
Scotland
may be divided into four Districts, which I have not seen any of our Geographers do before me; yet, I believe, may not be an improper Measurement for such as would form a due Idea of the Whole in their Minds.
1. The
South-land,
or that Part of
Scotland
South of the River
Tay,
drawing a Line from the
Tay,
about
Perth,
to
Loch-lomond,
and down to
Dumbarton,
and the Bank of
Clyde.
2. The
Middle,
or
Mid-land,
being all the Country from the
Tay
and the
Lough-lomond,
North to the Lake of
Ness
and
Aber,
including a long Slope to the South, taking in the Western
Highlands
of
Argyll
and
Lorn,
and the Isles of
Isla
and
Jura.
3. The
North-land,
being all the Country beyond
Inverness,
and the
Lough
or River
Ness,
North, drawing the Line over the narrow Space of
Glengary
; between the
Ness
and
Aber,
and bounded by them both from the Eastern to the Western Sea.
4. The
Islands,
being all the Western and Northern Islands, the
Hebrides, Skye, Orkneys,
and other Isles of
Shetland.
According to this Description, having passed the Bridge over the River
Ness,
I am now entered on the third Division of
Scotland
called the
North-land.
Here are not only the best Hawks of all Kinds, but Eagles in great Numbers, which prey upon the young Fawns when they fall first, and upon Wild Fowl, with which this Part of the Country abounds.
The Rivers and Lakes also in this Country are so prodigiously full of Salmon, that it is hardly credible what Quantities are taken in the
Spey,
the
Nairn,
the
Ness,
and other Rivers hereabout.
The several Countries beyond the
Ness
are,
Ross, Sutherland, Strathnavern, Caithness,
and beyond those the Islands of
Orkney
and
Shetland.
Sutherland
is called the Shire of
Dornoch,
from the chief Town of the Province called
Dornoch,
a Royal Burgh, noted for a Castle belonging to the Earl of
Sutherland
; for its Cathedral Church for the Diocese of
Caithness,
which once was Part of this Shire; and for its four annual Fairs. It has three remarkable Forests, besides abundance of other Woods, which afford pleasant Hunting and Fowling. One sort of Bird is peculiar to this Country, called
Knug,
which resembles a Parrot, and digs its Nest in the Trunks of Oak, with its Beak. There are about 60 Lakes in this County: The greatest is
Lochskin,
14 Miles in Length; in many of them are Islands very pleasant for Summer Habitations. In the Isle of
Brora,
the Earl of
Sutherland
has a House, which he makes use of when he comes to hunt Deer, which abound in it; and in some of the Lakes and Rivers of this County, as well as in the Rivers of
Aberdeen,
and
Rosse,
are found Pearls of great Value. In short, this Shire so abounds with Lakes, Rivers, and Bays, that there is scarce a Farm in the whole County, but is washed either with fresh or salt Water, so that the Inhabitants have Store of Fish and Fowl. The Beer or Big in this County is reckoned excellent. It has also Silver Mines, and excellent Iron Mines, Coal Mines, and Quarries of Free-stone, but much neglected. It has many commodious Harbours for Ships to export its Commodities; which are Cod, Salmon, salt Beef, Wool, Skins, Hides, Tallow, Butter, Cheese,
&c.
The Bays and Coasts also abound with Seals, have sometimes Whales, and Shell Fish of all sorts.
The Earl of
Sutherland
has a Castle beyond
Inverness,
called
Dunrobin,
situate on the Eastern Shore, of which his Lordship was sent down by Sea to take an early Possession in the late Rebellion; and which if he had not done, would soon have fallen into the Hands of the late Earl of
Marr
's Party; but his coming timely thither, prevented him and the Country on that Side, from joining the Troops of the
Pretender.
In the Gardens of this Seat, tho' so Northerly, Saffron grows very well, and comes to Maturity.
Strathnavern
is Part of
Sutherland,
and derives its Name from
Strath,
a Valley, situated on the River
Navern,
which runs thro' it. The Country is mountainous, and formerly was noted for breeding greater Numbers of ravenous Wolves than any other in
Scotland.
The Bays and Rivers are full of Fish; it is very woody, and many Lakes are in the Valleys. There are several Monuments in it, of Victories gained over the
Danes,
particularly one at
Enbo,
which is a Stone Cross, said to be over a
Danish
King. The Inhabitants are great Hunters, and despise those who are not; so that Venison with them is a common Dish. The Situation of the Country not admitting of Towns, the Inhabitants live up and down in small Villages. On the Northern Coast of this County are several Islands. Of the many Lakes,
Lochnavern
and
Lochyol
are the largest, and the latter affords an Island which is inhabited in the Summer time.
Borwe
and
Young,
are the Places of most Note, the latter the principal Seat of the Lord
Rea,
Chief of the
Mackays,
who is the principal Proprietor of
Strathnavern
; but holds it of the Earl of
Sutherland,
to whose eldest Son it gives the Title of Lord. The Earls of
Sutherland
were formerly of the Name of
Sutherland,
to the Heiress of which a Son of the House of
Gordon
married, from whom the present Earl is descended. They have a long time claimed Precedency, as the first Earls of the Kingdom, and in order to recover it, have re-assumed their former Name. They have great Royalties, as being Admirals of that, and some of the neighbouring Counties, and all the Gentlemen of
Sutherland
hold of them. Lord
Duffus
is descended of this Family. The Earl is Hereditary Sheriff of it. The County has several Mountains of white Marble, as we were told.
North of the Mouth of the River
Nesse,
is the famous
Cromarty
Bay, or
Cromarty
Firth, noted for being the finest Harbour, with the least Business, perhaps, of any in
Britain.
It is 15 Miles long, and in many Places two Miles broad; and, like
Milford-haven
in
Wales,
is able to receive the Royal Navy of
Great-Britain
both to go out and come in with Safety; but, for want of Trade, this noble Harbour, which by Geographers and Mariners, is called
Portus Salutis,
or
the Harbour of Safety,
is become almost useless.
The Shire of
Cromarty
is denominated from a Royal Burgh, standing upon the Firth of
Cromarty.
The Waters of
Connel
are celebrated for the Pearls found in them. Of great Part of this County the Earl of
Cromarty
is Sheriff and Proprietor. The Straths or Valleys upon the Water-side abound with Woods. Particularly, upon the Hills is great Store of all sorts of Game; also near
Alserig,
upon the Waters of
Braan,
and on the
Carron,
are great Woods of Fir.
All the County beyond the River
Nesse,
and the
Loch
flowing into it, is called
Caithness,
and extends to the Northermost Land in
Scotland.
It is divided from
Sutherland
by the Mountain
Ord,
and a Tract of Mountains running from it as far as
Knochfin.
Some People tell us they have Lead, Copper, and Iron in this Part of
Scotland
; and I am very much inclined to believe it; but it seems reserved for a future and more industrious Age to search into it. Should a Time come, when these hidden Treasures of the Earth shall be discovered and improved, this Part of
Scotland
would be no longer esteemed poor; for such a Production would soon change the Face of Things, bring Wealth and Commerce to it, fill the Harbours with Ships, the Towns with People, and by consuming the Provisions, occasion the Soil to be cultivated, the Fish cured, the Cattle consumed at Home, and thereby diffuse Prosperity all around them.
Our Writers have represented the Inhabitants here wild and barbarous: They were so formerly, perhaps; but we see the
Mackenzies, Macleods, Sutherlands, Mc Leans, Mc Donalds, Gordons, Mc Keys, Macfergusons, Mc Intoshes,
and others sprung from thence, equally accomplished for the Court or Camp.
It must be owned, here are but few Towns; the People live dispersed in Clans under a kind of Vassalage, submitting to their Lords as their lawful Monarchs, and many of them acknowledge no other; tho' this too, is in a manner got over, and the Clans are less dependent on their Chiefs, than they used to be, by virtue of an Act of Parliament made for that very Purpose.
Their Employment is chiefly Hunting for their Food, tho' they also breed large Quantities of Black Cattle, with which they pay their Lairds or Leaders the Rent of the Lands. These Cattle are driven annually to
England
to be sold, and are bought up chiefly in the Counties of
Norfolk, Suffolk,
and
Essex
; as I have mentioned in several Places in my
Tour.
There are many little Towns and Villages, besides Gentlemens Seats in
Caithness,
as far North as it is: But the People are more addicted to good Living within Doors, than to shewy Edifices, or fine Seats. The best House in it, is Castle
Sinclair,
so called from the Name of the Earls of
Sinclair,
whose Seat it is, and they have several other Castles in the County. The Lord
Sinclair
of
Ravensheugh
in
Fife
is chief of the Name. His Ancestors formerly possessed
Orkney
and
Shetland,
and were allied to the Royal Family of
Denmark.
But one of the Family squandered away his Estate, and among the rest, these Islands; and got for it the inglorious Title of,
William the Waster.
The chief Town and Royal Burgh in
Caithness
is
Wick
or
Weich,
whence it is called the Shire of
Weich.
This Town lies conveniently for Trade, and has a good Harbour for Ships on the Eastern Coast. It is the Residence of the Sheriff, or his Officer.
Thurso,
another Town with a good Harbour, lies also on the Northern Coast, in a little Bay. The Isles of
Orkney
and
Shetland,
I refer to the Account of the Isles.
And I shall observe, once for all, that I am the more particular in my Description of these Northern Parts of
Scotland,
because they are least known, and less valued and esteemed than they deserve.
This County is surrounded with the Sea, and those two great Inlets of Water, mentioned above, called the
Ness
and the
Abre:
So that it forms a Peninsula, by means of that small Neck of Land of about eight Miles long, which Mr.
Camden
calls the
Garrow
or
Glengarrough,
others
Glengary.
Were it not for this, the whole Division of the
Northland
would be a distinct Island, separated from all the rest of
Great Britain,
as effectually as the
Orkneys
or the Isle of
Skye
is from this.
That Part which lies to the East, is open to the Sea, without Cover; the West and the North are, in a manner, surrounded with Out-works as a Defence to break off the raging Ocean from the North; for the Western Islands on one Side, and the
Orkneys
on the other, lie as so many advanced Fortifications or Redoubts, to combat that Enemy at a Distance.
From
Dunrobin
Castle you have nothing of Note offers itself, either by Sea or Land, but an extended Shore lying North and South, without Towns, and without Harbours; and as there are none of the former to be found, so there are none of the last wanting.
The Land thus extended lies North and South to
Dungsby-head,
which is the utmost Extent of it, on the East-side of
Britain
North, and is distant from
Cromarty
18 Leagues North. From this Point of
Dingsby
or
Dungsby-head,
as I observed before of
Buchan
and
Winterton,
the Sailors take their Distances, and keep their Accounts in their going farther North;
e. g.
From this Point of
Dingsby-head
to the
Fair-isle
or
Faro,
which is the first of
Shetland,
or the last of the
Orkneys,
(call it which you will; for it lies between both) is 25 Leagues, or 75 Miles.
From the same
Dungsby-head
to
Sumburgh-head,
that is, to
Shetland,
is 32 Leagues, or 96 Miles, and to
Lerwick
Fort in
Shetland
110 Miles.
Thus from
Buchanness
to
Sumburgh-head
in
Shetland,
is 47 Leagues.
And from
Wintertonness
near
Yarmouth,
on the Coast of
Norfolk,
to
Buchanness,
on the Coast of
Aberdeen,
is just 100 Leagues. So from
Winterton
to
Shetland
is 147 Leagues, or 431 Miles.
I am now to observe, that we are here at the extremest Point of the Island of
Great Britain
; and that here the Land bears away West, leaving a large Streight or Sea, which they call
Pictland,
or
Pentland Firth,
and which divides between the Island of
Great Britain,
and the Isles of the
Orkneys
; a Passage broad and fair; for 'tis not less than five Leagues over, and has a sufficient Depth of Water for Ships to sail in: But the Tides are so fierce, so uncertain, and the Gusts and sudden Squalls of Wind so frequent, that very few Merchant Ships care to venture thro' it, and the
Dutch East-India
Ships, which come North about, (as 'tis called) in their Return from
India,
keep all farther off, and chuse to come by
Fair-isle,
in the Passage between the Islands of
Orkney
and
Shetland
; whither they generally send their Men of War to meet them, being sure of not missing them in so narrow a Passage.
But the Passage here is much broader, being at least nine Leagues from North
Ranalsha,
the farthest Island of the
Orkneys,
to
Fair-isle,
and five more from
Fair-isle
to
Shetland:
So that it is 14 Leagues clear open Sea between the
Orkneys
and
Shetland,
with only a small Island in the Way, which has nothing dangerous about it.
In the Passage between the Land's End of
Britain
and the
Orkneys,
is a small Island, which our Mariners call
Stroma,
Mr.
Camden,
and others,
Sowna
; and is much spoken of as dangerous for Ships: But I see no room to record any thing of that kind, any more than the Report, that it is haunted by Witches and Spirits, which draw Ships on Shore to their Misfortune.
At
Dungsby-head
is the most Northerly Land of
Great Britain,
where, in the Month of
June,
after a clear Day, we could see to read the smallest Print, and to write distinctly, all Night long, without the Help of a Candle.
No wonder the antient Mariners, be they
Phoenician
or
Carthaginian,
who knew nothing of the Motion of the heavenly Bodies, when they were driven thus far, were surprised to find they had lost the steady Rotation of Day and Night, which they thought had spread over the whole Globe. They imagined the
Elysian
Fields must lie this Way, when they found they were come already to the Realm of everlasting Day.
From hence West we go along the Shore of the
Firth,
which they call
Pentland,
where is the famous House called
John a Grot
's. We set our Horses Feet into the Sea, on the most Northerly Land, as the People say, of
Britain,
tho', I think,
Dungsbyhead
is as far North. 'Tis certain, however, the Difference is but very small, being either of them in the Latitude of 59⅙ North, and
Shetland
reaching above two Degrees farther. The Dominions of
Great Britain
are extended from the Isle of
Wight,
in the Latitude of 50 Degrees, to the Isles of
Unsta
in
Shetland,
in the Latitude of 61 Degrees 30 Minutes, being 10 Degrees, or full 600 Miles, in Length; which Island of
Unst
or
Unsta,
being the most remote of the Isles of
Shetland
to the North-east, lies 167 Leagues from
Wintertonness
in
Norfolk.
Here we found, however mountainous and wild the Country appeared, the People extremely well furnished with Provisions, especially four Sorts in great Plenty; two of them sufficient for a common Table, the other two the Splendor of the greatest
1. Very good Bread, as well Oat Bread as Wheat, tho' the last not so cheap as the first.
2. Venison exceeding plentiful, and at all Seasons, young or old, which they kill with their Guns whereever they find it, for there is no Restraint; on which Account all the Highlanders have Fire-arms, and become excellent Marksmen.
3. Salmon in such Plenty as is scarce credible, and consequently so cheap, that to those who have any Substance to buy with, it is not worth giving themselves any Trouble to catch it. This they eat fresh in the Season, and at other times cured by being dried in the Sun, and so preserved all the Year.
4. They have no want of Cows and Sheep, but the latter are so wild, that sometimes, were they not, by their own Disposition, used to flock together, they would be much harder to kill than the Deer.
From hence to the West Point of the Passage to
Orkney
is near 20 Miles, which may be called the End of the Island of
Britain,
which faces directly to the North Pole, so that the Tail of the
Great Bear
is seen just over your Head. The Day is here, in Summer, said to be 18 Hours long, the Sun remaining so long above the Horizon; and when he is set, he makes so small an Arch of a Circle below the Horizon, that it is much above a Twilight all the Night; but it must be remembered, that the dark Nights take in Winter their Turn, and are protracted to as great a Degree.
Yet it is observable here, that they have more temperate Winters, generally speaking, than we have in the most Southerly Part of the Island; and particularly, the Water in some of the Rivers, as in the
Ness,
for Example, never freezes (as I have observed before); which is accounted for from the Nearness of the Sea, which filling the Air with salt Vapours, sheathes, as it were, the acute Particles of the Cold.
For the same Reason the Snows are not so deep, nor do they lie so long upon the Ground, as in other Places. The Summits indeed of the high Hills, whither these Vapours cannot reach, are continually covered with Snow, and perhaps have been so for many Ages, so that this Country, if any in the World, agrees with the following Description:
— Vast wat'ry Lakes, which spread below,
And Mountains cover'd with eternal Snow.
On the most inland Parts of this Country, especially in the Shire of
Ross,
they have vast Woods of Fir-trees for 15 or 20 Miles in Length, not planted by Mens Hands, as I have described in the Southern Part of
Scotland
; but as they came out of the Hands of Nature, and nourished by her Hand-maid, Time. If we may believe the Inhabitants, they are large enough to make Masts for the biggest Ships; and yet are of no Service, merely for want of the Convenience of Water-carriage to bring them away. But methinks, rather than they should remain an useless Burden to the Earth, they might be cut down and burnt, from whence might be drawn vast Quantities of Pitch, Tar, Rosin, Turpentine,
&c.
which is of easier Carriage, and would well answer the Trouble. Indeed an Attempt has been made of this kind for Pot-ash; but it did not succeed, rather thro' the Fault of the Undertakers at
London,
than any thing else.
And now leaving the Northern Prospect, we pass the opposite Point West from
Dungsby-head,
and which the People call
Farro-head,
tho' Mr.
Camden
calls these two Points by two different Names: The East Point, or
Dungsby-head,
he calls
Virvedrum Promontorium.
The West Point, or
Farro-head,
he calls
Sarvedrum Promontorium.
From hence the vast Western
Atlantick
Ocean appears, for which the Geographers have not agreed upon a Name, there being no Country to derive it from.
And now we were to turn our Faces South; for as to the Islands of this Sea, which make the fourth Division of
Scotland,
as I mentioned before, I shall take notice of them under one Head, in the Conclusion of my
Tour.
In our Attempt to come down to the Southward by the Coast of
Tayne,
and the Shire of
Ross,
we should have been extremely disappointed, and perhaps have been obliged to get a Ship or Bark, to have carried us round the Isle of
Skye
into
Lochaber,
had it not been for the extraordinary Courtesy of some of the Gentlemen of the Country.
On the other hand, we unexpectedly met here some
English
Men, who were employ'd by Merchants in the South, to take and cure a large Quantity of White-fish, and afterwards of Herrings, on account of Trade. Here we had not only the Civility of their Assistance and Accommodation in our Journey, but the Pleasure of seeing what Progress they made in their Undertaking.
As for the Herrings, the Quantity of them was prodigious. The Shoal was beginning to come, when we first came to the Head of
Pentland Firth
; and in a Fortnight's time, the Body of their numberless Shoals began to appear; but before we left the Coast, you would have ventur'd to say of the Sea, as they do of the River
Tibiscus,
or
Thiesse
in
Hungary,
that it was one third Water, and two thirds Fish. The Operation of taking them could hardly be called Fishing; for they did little more than dip for them into the Water, and take them up. I make no Scruple to say, that if there had been 10,000 Ships to have loaded with them, they might all have been filled. The Fish did not seem to stay, but passed on to the South, that they might supply other Parts, and make way also for those innumerable Shoals which were to come after.
Had the Quantity of White-fish been any way proportioned to the Herrings, there would, no doubt, have been such Encouragement to the Merchants, that they would never have given it over; but they found it would not fully answer: Not but that there were great Quantities of Cod, and the Fish were sizeable and good; but as they are taken with Hook and Line, they could not with any Dispatch get a sufficient Loading, or lay up enough in large Quantities in the Season.
The Bay of
Tayne
is unsafe for Ships, runs a great way up into the County, divides
Rosse
from
Sutherland,
and ends at the Promontory of
Tarbat.
We found the Town of
Tayne,
and some other Villages, tolerably well inhabited, and some Trade also, occasioned principally by the Communication with the Western Islands, and also by the Herring-fishing, the Fishing-boats from other Parts often putting into those Ports; for all their Coast is full of Loughs and Rivers, and other Openings, which make very good Harbours for Shipping; and what is remarkable, some of those Loughs are infinitely full of Herrings, even where, as they tell us, they have no Communication with the Sea, so that they must have, in all Probability, been put into them alive by some particular Hands, and have multiplied there, as we find at this Time, if they have not some Communications with the Sea, which are not discovered to the Inhabitants.
We could understand no more of what the People commonly said on this Side, than if we had been in
Morocco
; all the Remedy we had was, that we found most of the Gentlemen spoke
French,
and some few broad
Scotish.
It was indeed upon other Accounts much for our Convenience to make the common People believe we were
French.
Should we go about here to give you an Account of the Religion of the People in this Country, it would be an unpleasant Work, and perhaps scarce gain Credit. You would hardly believe, that in a Christian Island, as this is said to be, there should be People who know so little of the Christian Religion, as not to distinguish
Sunday
from a common Day of Labour, or the Worship of God from an ordinary Meeting for Conversation. I am unwilling to record so ungrateful a Truth, which may in time find Redress; but I cannot but say that his Majesty's Gift of 1000
l.
paid annually to the Assembly of
Scotland,
for sending Ministers or Missionaries for the propagating Christian Knowledge in the
Highlands,
is certainly one of the most needful Charities that could have been thought of, and truly worthy of a King; and, if prudently applied, as there is Reason to believe it is, may in time dispel that Cloud of Ignorance that has so far overspread this unhappy Part of the Country. The People have the
Bible
in their own Language, the IRS; and the Missionaries are obliged to preach to them, and examine and catechise their Children in the IRS Language, so that we are not to despair of having this Country as well instructed in time as other Parts of
Britain.
The Shire of
Tayne,
with the little Shire of
Cromarty,
and part of the Shire of
Inverness,
comprehends the whole Country called
Rosse.
The first Tract towards the South-west in the County of
Rosse,
is
Kintail,
separated from the Isle of
Skye
by a narrow Firth. Next is a little Track called
Glenelebeg,
the paternal Estate of the Earl of
Seaforth,
whose chief Seat is called
Castle Ylendoven,
lying in an Island of the above-mentioned Firth. Farther North, on the same Coast, lies
Loch-ew,
with thick Woods, where Iron was formerly made. A little farther North,
Loch-brien
runs into this County, and is remarkable for its noble annual Fishery of Herrings.
The Peninsula which lies betwixt the Bay of
Cromarty
and
Murray
is called
Ardmeanach,
upon the Shore of which stands the Town called,
the Chanonry of Ross,
formerly a Bishop's See. It is pleasantly situated in a Valley betwixt fruitful Hills. It had once a stately Cathedral and Castle, where the Bishop dwelt. Here the late Earl of
Seaforth
had a noble House.
Beaulieu,
formerly a pleasant and rich Abbey, lies near the Mouth of the River
Farrar,
and is now possessed by the Lord
Lovat.
The Earl of
Seaforth
had near it a Castle called
Kildun.
There are other Seats of antient Families in this County, which my Compass will not let me describe, and I shall mention them at the latter End of my
Tour,
in a general List, that you may be enabled to form an Idea of the numerous Families of Gentry which
Scotland
produces.
On this Coast is the Isle of
Skye,
lying from the West-north-west, to the East-south-east, and bearing upon the main Island, only separated by a narrow Streight of Water; something like as the Isle of
Wight
is separated from the County of
Southampton.
We left this on our Right, and crossing the Mountains, came, with as little Stay as we could, to the Loughs called
Lochyol,
and
Lochlochy,
which run thro' that large Country called
Lochaber,
that is,
ver
the Lochs, and which some affect to call the River
Aber
or
Abre, i. e.
the Water which, as I said above, assists, with
Loughness,
or
Lochness,
to separate the North Land of
Scotland,
from the middle Part.
This is a long and narrow Inlet of the Sea, in Length above 24 Miles, the Depth unknown, which opening from the
Irish Sea
South-west, meets the River
Abre,
or, as the
Scots
much more properly express it, the Water of
Abre
; for it is rather a large Lake or
Loch
than a River, and receives innumerable small Rivers into it. It rises in the Mountains of
Ross,
or of
Glengary,
within five or six Miles from the Shore of the
Lochness,
or the Water of
Ness,
which is a long and narrow Lake like itself; and as the
Ness
runs away East to
Innerness,
and so into the great Gulph called
Murray Firth,
so the
Abre,
becoming presently a
Loch
or Lake, always goes away more to the Southward, and sloping South-west, runs into the
Irish Seas,
as above.
Lochaber
is 50 Miles in a strait Line from
Inverlochy
to
Inverness,
and is one of the most barren Countries in
North Britain,
tho' the People have Wood, Goats and Deer in Plenty.
Glenco
is almost the only Town in it; noted for the barbarous and inhuman Massacre perpetrated there by K.
William
's Soldiers, quartered in those Parts, and who cut off Men, Women and Children without Mercy. A Massacre that made a great Noise, and was universally detested; and what made it still the more odious was, that the Commander in that bloody Work found Friends enough to screen him from the Inquiry that was attempted to be made into the horrid Fact, in order to find out who gave him his Orders for it.
Lochaber
is noted in History for
Banco,
its gallant Thane, about the Year 1050, who was murdered by the Tyrant
Macbeth,
because of a Prophecy,
That his Posterity should enjoy the Crown for a long Series of Years:
Which accordingly happened; for his Son flying into
Wales,
married the Prince of
North Wales
's Daughter; by whom he had
Walter,
afterwards Steward of
Scotland,
from whom the Royal Family of
Stuart
was descended. It was on this Story that our celebrated
Shakespeare
founded his Tragedy called
Macbeth.
On this Water of
Abre,
just at the Entrance of the
Loch,
was antiently a Fort built to curb the
Highlanders,
on either Side, called
Inverlochy.
It was formerly of great Strength, and yet often destroy'd by the
Danes
and
Norwegians.
And at the Revolution, King
William
caused it to be rebuilt, or rather erected a new Fort there, which is called
Castle William,
as the Village is
Mary-burgh
; and there is always a good Garison kept in it for curbing the
Highlanders.
It is so situated, that tho' it may indeed be blocked up by Land, and distressed by a Siege, yet, as it is open to the Sea, it may constantly receive Supplies by Shipping.
From
Inverlochy
to
Lochness
has General
Wade,
with the most commendable Industry and Pains, thro' almost inaccessible Mountains, and Mosses, and Morasses, made a most convenient Road, which even surpasses (the County consider'd) what the
Romans
had done with their several Military Ways; and shews, that the Soldiery might be made useful even in Times of Peace, and rather a Benefit than a Burden to the Country; and at the same time so inure them to Toil, Labour, and Hardiness, as would render them fitter for their Country's Service in Time of War. To defend this Road from the Rage of the
Highlanders,
and at the same time to keep them in Awe, the General built a regular Fortification, which is called
Fort Augustus.
By this means the
Highlands,
which before were inaccessible but by
Highlanders,
who eluded always the Resentment of their Pursuers, are easily entered, and traversed at the Pleasure of the King's Forces; and even the noted
Rob Roy
himself, (so famous for his Excursions and Plunders on the
Lowlands,
and the King's Friends, and who, notwithstanding the Proclamations, and Rewards issued for apprehending him, could never be taken) were he alive, would not be able now to find a Place of Refuge from his Pursuers. And this must be in time a great Help to the civilizing of the
Highlanders,
as the Schools established among them (of which more by-and-by) will be another.
At this Place we take our Leave of the Third Division, which I call the North Land of
Scotland
; for this Fort, being on the South-side of the
Lochaber,
is therefore called
Innerlochy,
as the other for the like Reason was called
Innerness.
We have nothing now remaining for a full Survey of
Scotland,
but the Western Part of the Middle Division of
Scotland
; and this, tho' a large Country, yet affords not an equal Variety with the Eastern Part of the same Division.
To traverse the Remainder of this Country, I must begin upon the
Upper Tay,
as we may justly call it, where I left off, when I turned away East; and here we have in especial manner the Countries of
Badenach, Athol
and
Braidalbin:
This is a hilly Country indeed; but as it is water'd by the
Tay,
and many other pleasant Rivers which fall into it, there are several fruitful Valleys interspersed among the Hills; nor are even the
Highlands
themselves, or the
Highlanders
the Inhabitants, any thing so wild, untaught, or untractable, as we have been made to believe, and as are to be found in the North Land Division, that is to say, in
Strathnavern, Ross, Tain,
&c.
The Duke of
Athol
is Lord, I had almost said King, of this Country; and has the greatest Number of Vassals, of any Nobleman in this, or any Part of
Scotland.
The late Duke was always an Opposer of the Union in the Parliament holden at
Edinburgh,
for passing it into an Act; but he did not carry his Opposition to a Height of Tumult and Rebellion. If he had, as some were forward to have had him done, he would possibly at that time have bid fair to have prevented the Conclusion of it: But the Hour was come, when the Calamities of War, which for so many hundred Years had vexed the two Nations, were to have an End; and tho' the
English
Government had never less Power than then in
Scotland,
yet the Affair was carried thro' with a high Hand, all the little Tumults and Disorders of the Rabble, as well at
Edinburgh
as at
Glasgow,
and other Places, being timely suppressed, and others by prudent Management prevented.
The Duke has several fine Seats in this Country; as first at
Dunkeld,
upon the
Tay,
which I mentioned before, where there was a Fight between the regular Troops and the
Highlanders,
in the Beginning of the Reign of King
William
; another at
Huntingtour,
in the
Strathern,
or Valley of
Ern,
where the Duke has a fine Park, and great Store of Deer; which may be called his Hunting-seat, whither he sometimes retires for Sport.
He has another Seat at the Castle of
Blair,
farther North, and beyond the
Tay,
on the Edge of
Braidalbin,
upon the Banks of a clear and fine River, which falls into the
Tay
a few Miles lower.
The Country of
Braidalbin
has not so much as a single Village in it of ten Houses; yet from its
Latin
Name
Albania,
gives oft-times the Title of Duke to some of the Royal Family; 'tis seated very near the Centre of
Scotland,
and is alledged to be the highest Ground in it, for that the Rivers which rise here, are said to run every Way from this Part, some into the
Eastern,
and some into the
Western
Seas.
The
Grampian
Mountains here are said to cut thro'
Scotland.
As the Country is rough and uncultivated, the Inhabitants are a hardy Race of Men, who make excellent Soldiers, when they are listed abroad in regular and disciplined Troops; and I must add, that they are much civilized from what they were formerly. These Mountains abound with Flocks of Black Cattle, Sheep, Horses, and Goats. The Beef and Mutton are of a delicious Taste, and the Wool is valued for its Whiteness and Softness.
The Duke of
Athol,
tho' he had not (till of late) an Estate equal to some of the Nobility, yet was Master of more of the Superiorities, as they are called here, than many of those who have twice his Estate; and I have been told, that he can bring a Body of above 6000 Men together in Arms at very little Warning.
The Pomp and Grandeur in which this noble Person lives, is not to be imitated in
Great Britain
; for he is served like a Prince, and maintains a greater Equipage and Retinue, than five times his Estate would support in another Country.
The Duke has also another Seat in
Strathern,
which is called
Tullibardin,
and which gives Title of Marquis to the eldest Son of the House of
Athol,
for the Time being. At the lower Part of this Country the River
Ern
falls into the
Tay,
and greatly increases its Waters. This River rises far West, on the Frontiers of the Western
Highlands
near
Glengyl,
and running thro' that pleasant Country called
Strathern,
falls into
Tay,
below
St. Johnston.
The present Duke is the only Peer that I know of, that is so by Statute, rather than Patent; for his eldest Brother, the Marquis of
Tullibardin,
being attainted for his Adherence to the
Pretender,
the Title would of course have failed; but that (together with the Estate) it was settled by Act of Parliament on the second Brother, who is also Lord of, or King in, the
Isle of Man,
and also Lord
Strange
of
Knocking,
to both which he succeeded by the Death of his Cousin
James
late Earl of
Derby.
Soon after the
Ern
shoots forth from the Mountains, it spreads itself into a
Loch,
as most of those Rivers do, called
Lochern
; and then runs by
Duplin
Castle, the Seat of the Earl of
Kinnoul,
whose eldest Son is thence called Lord
Duplin.
The present Earl of
Kinnoul,
when Lord
Duplin,
married the Daughter of the Earl of
Oxford,
when Lord High Treasurer of
England
; and was, on that Occasion, made a Peer of
Great Britain,
by the Title of Lord
Hay
of
Peperdon.
His Estate here is a very good one, but not attended with Vassals and Superiorities, as, I observed, the Duke of
Athol
's is. The several Owners of this Seat having been pretty much used to reside in it, have adorned it at several times, each according to his particular Genius. It has lately received a new Decoration, two Wings being added for Offices as well as Ornament.
The old Building is spacious, the Rooms large, and Ceilings lofty, filled with Furniture suitable to its outward Magnificence, particularly with abundance of fine Paintings, some of the Royal Family, among which is one of King
Charles
I. with a Letter in his Hand, held out to his Son the Duke of
York,
afterwards King
James
VII. which they said he was to have carried to
France.
There is also a Statue in Brass of the same King on Horse-back; a Picture of
Oliver Cromwell
; another of General
Monk,
both from the Life. There is also a whole Length of that Earl of
Kinnoul,
who was Lord Chancellor of
Scotland,
in the Reign of King
James
VI. and King
Charles
I. with several other Pieces of
Italian
Masters of great Value.
Duplin
Castle is remarkable also for the greatest Defeat the
Scots
ever received from the
English,
in the Reign of
Edward Baliol,
whom the
English
came to assist. In this Battle fourscore of the Family of
Lindsay
perished, and of the Family of
Hay
so many, that the Name had been extinguished, had not the Chief left his Lady with Child.
From this Place we went to
Brechin
in
Angus,
formerly mentioned, an antient Town with a Castle finely situated; but the Grandeur of it is lost; the Family of
Panmure,
to whom it belonged chiefly, having forfeited it in the late Rebellion.
Here I shall mention the Cataract near
Blair Drummond
on the
Keith,
which empties itself into the
Tay,
which makes so great a Noise among the Rocks, that it stuns those who come near it.
We were now, after a long Mountain-ramble, come down to the
Lowlands,
and into a pleasant and agreeable Country; but as we had yet another Journey to take Westward, we had a like Prospect of a rude and wild Part of
Scotland
to go thro'.
The
Highlands
of
Scotland
may be divided into two Parts, the West
Highlands
and the North
Highlands
; the latter I have spoken of at large, containing the Countries of
Athol, Lochaber, Badenach, Strathspey, Innerness, Ross, Sutherland,
and
Strathnavern,
together with the Isles of
Skye, Lewis,
&c.
The West
Highlands
contain the Shires or Counties of
Dunbritton
or
Dunbarton,
alias
Lenox, Bute,
and
Argyll,
which last contains the Districts of
Cowal, Knapdale, Lorn
and
Cantyre
; the Isles of
Mull, Jura, Isla,
&c.
Braidalbin
is sometimes reckoned a Part of the North, and sometimes of the West
Highlands.
On the Banks of the River
Ern
lies a very pleasant Vale, which continues from the
Tay,
quite up to the
Highlands,
called by
Claudian, Glacialis Ierne
; but now, according to the Usage of
Scotland, Strathern,
or the Vale of
Ern.
'Tis an agreeable Country, has many Gentlemens Seats on both Sides the River; but being near the
Highlands,
has often suffered by Depredations in former Times.
In it are many
Roman
Camps; particularly one at
Ardoch
; besides a
Roman
Highway, towards
Perth.
Several
Roman
Medals have also been found there, and of late two
Tabulae
curiously enamelled with a Sepulchral Stone. The
Ochil-hills,
which run along the South Parts of
Perthshire,
abound with Metals and Minerals; particularly they find good Copper, and
Lapis Calaminaris
; and at
Glen-lion
they meet with Lead. Here is great Want of Coal; but their excellent Peat, and abundance of Wood, supply that Defect.
The Family of
Montrose,
whose Chief was sacrificed for the Royal Cause in the late Civil Broils, had a strong Castle here called
Kincardin,
which was demolished in those Wars, and is not rebuilt. The Castle of
Drummond
is almost in the same Condition, b
ng deserted by its Owners; the two late Earls of
th,
Father and Grandfather of the present Earl, were forced into Exile for adhering to the late King
James
II. and the
Pretender.
King
James
had the latter in such Esteem, that he not only made him a Duke, and Knight of the Garter, but Governor to the
Chevalier.
The Western
Highlands,
properly so called, are the only remaining Part of
Scotland,
which as yet I have not touched upon. This is that particular Country, which a certain Man in King
James
II.'s Time called the Kingdom of
Argyll,
complimenting King
James
upon having conquered two Kings, when he suppressed the Duke of
Monmouth,
whom in Derision they called the little King of
Lime,
and the Earl of
Argyll,
whom they called, with much more Propriety, the great King of the
Highlands.
But tho' the greatest Part of these Western
Highlands
may be said to be subject to the House of
Argyll,
or, to speak more properly, to the Family or Clan of the
Campbells,
of whom the Duke of
Argyll
is the Chief, yet some of the Western Gentlemen are not so blindly guided by their Chiefs as those in the North; nor, when led on, are they so apt to commit Outrages and Violence.
But tho' the People are different in these Western and Northern
Highlands,
the Countries are much alike; only in the former there are not such extensive Woods of Fir-trees, nor such Quantities of large Eagles.
The People also dress alike in both, in the
Plaid
and the
Trouse
; go naked from below the Knee to the Mid-thighs; wear a Durk and a Pistol at their Girdle, and a Target at their Shoulder.
Some reckon the Shire of
Braidalbin
to belong, as I have said, to these Western
Highlands
; not that it is West in its Situation, for it is rather North; but, I suppose, because one Part of it is inhabited by the
Campbells,
whose Clan, as I have observed, generally possesses most of the West
Highlands.
But if they claim the Country, they will have no Reason to boast of the People, who are, if I may give my Opinion, some of the most barbarous and ill-governed of all the
Highlands
of
Scotland
; desperate in Fight, fierce in Conversation, apt to quarrel, mischievous, and even Murderers in their Passion.
At the Fight which happened at
Gillekranky
in
Athol,
against the Viscount of
Dundee,
they tell us a Story of a Combat between an
English
Soldier and a
Highlander.
The
Englishman
understood the Back-sword very well, but the
Scotchman
received all the Blows upon his Target; and yet at the same time laid so hard at his Antagonist with his Broad-sword, that he cut him in two or three Places; at which the
Englishman
enraged, rather than discouraged, cried out to him,
You Dog, come out from behind the Door, and fight like a Man
; but the
Scot,
tho' as brave as the other, knew better things; he pursued him, in short, so closely, that he was just going to kill him, when some of the Regiment, that saw him distressed, came up and rescued him, and took the
Highlander
Prisoner.
It is hard to say whether the Northern or Western
Highlanders
make the best Soldiers. 'Tis certain they both of them are defrauded of an Honour due to them, when we attribute several gallant Atchievements to the
Irish
Battalions Abroad, which were performed by the
Scots.
Thus in particular 'tis said, the
Irish
Troops beat the
Germans
out of
Cremona,
after they had got Possession of the Town, and had taken the
French
General, the Marshal
Viller
y,
Prisoner: That the
Irish
Battalions in the
Spanish
Service behaved gallantly in
Sicily,
and so on many extraordinary Occasions. Now tho' it is true, that the
Scots
came originally from
Ireland,
yet 'tis to be observed, that these Soldiers were most of them
Scots Highlanders,
who, upon all Occasions get over into
France,
there list among the
Irish
Troops; nay, in the late Wars, it has been observed, whole Regiments of
Highlanders
have been raised for the Service, who, when they were got Abroad, would take the first Opportunity to desert, and go over to the
French,
and so list in the
Irish
Battalions, their original Countrymen, and who still speak the same Language.
Leaving the Country about
Brechin,
and the
Lowlands
of
Strathern,
we went away West; but were presently interrupted by a vast inland Sea, rather than a Lake, called
Lochlomond.
It is indeed a Sea, and look'd like it from the Hills from whence we first descry'd it. It contains thirty Islands, three of which have Churches, and several of the rest are inhabited. The chief is
Inchmurin,
about two Miles and a half in Length, fruitful in Corn and Grass, and abounds with Deer, which the
Scotish
Kings were accustomed to hunt there. The others most remarkable are
Nachastel,
so called from the old Castle in it.
Inchdavanan,
noted for Broom, abundance of wild Berries, pleasant Habitations, Gardens and Fruit-trees.
Inchonnaugan,
noted for Birch-trees and Corn-fields.
Inchnolaig,
noted for Yew-trees, which grow no-where else in these Islands. And
Rouglash,
where the Laird of
Macfarlan
has a handsome Seat on the East-side of the Lake.
Kilmaronoch,
a fine Seat once belonging to the Earls of
Cassils
; but now to the Earl of
Dondonald. Buchanan-castle,
and several others.
This Lake or Loch is one of the largest in
Scotland,
being more than 20 Miles long, and generally eight Miles in Breadth, tho' at the North End of it 'tis not near so broad. It receives many Rivers into it, but empties itself into the Firth of
Clyde,
at one Mouth.
This Lake abounds with Fish of several Sorts, particularly a Sort called
Poans,
and by some
Pollacks,
peculiar to it; a Kind of Eel, very delicious to eat. This gave Occasion to the Mistake of Authors, who said this Lake had Fish without Fins. So the Beams fastened together in some Places of the Lake, by the Inhabitants, and covered with Turf, for them to have recourse to in time of War, and to move from Part to Part, gave Rise to the Fable of floating Islands here.
The famous
Grampian
Mountains begin near this Lake, and run Northward towards
Aberdeen.
The County of
Lenox,
on which this Lake lies, is in Length about 24 Miles, and in Breadth about twenty. The lower Part is very fertile in Corn; the higher is hilly, moorish, and more fit for Pasture. It is the paternal Estate and Property of the
Stuarts,
and extends itself from both Sides the
Levin,
which is the River that (as I said before) empties the
Lochlomond
into the
Clyde.
On this Side, Eastward,
Lenox
joins to
Monteith,
which is Part of
Perthshire,
and runs up for some Length on the East-side of the
Loch,
and on the West-side it extends to the Edge of the
Lochloing,
and a great way North, almost to the Mountains of
Lochaber.
All our Writers of the Description of
Lenox
inlarge upon its Family of
Stuarts,
as proceeding from the Royal Line of
Scotland
; and, in some respect, the Royal Line may be said to proceed from this House,
Henry
Lord
Darnley,
eldest Son of
Matthew
Earl of
Lenox,
having been married to Queen
Mary,
by whom he was Father of King
James
the Sixth and First. He was most barbarously murdered; the Queen was unjustly blamed for it; whereas
Murray
projected it,
Bothwell
put it in Execution,
Morton
and others were privy to it; as the said Earl
Morton,
and others who suffered for it, declared at the last.
From this Earl
Matthew
descended
Charles
Duke of
Lenox
and
Richmond,
who dying without Issue, in 1672. the Estate and Honour devolved to King
Charles
II. as Heir at Law, which he conferred on his natural Son by the Duchess of
Portsmouth,
and to whom he gave the Surname of
Lenox
; from whom is descended the present Duke of
Richmond
and
Lenox.
The
Buchanans,
among many illustrious Names, are originally of this County, whence the famous
George Buchanan,
one of the great Ornaments of his Age for all polite Learning, and not hitherto equalled by any Poet or Historian since his Time, for smooth and elegant
Latin.
But his excessive Bias for the Earl of
Murray,
and his inveterate Prejudice against the unfortunate Queen
Mary,
has quite lost him the Title of Impartiality; insomuch, that his History of
Scotland
was condemned by Act of Parliament, when first published,
Anno
1582. Whence Sir
George Mackenzie
took Occasion to say, He was both
Decus & Dedecus Patriae,
the
Grace
and
Disgrace
of his
Country.
Dunbarton
is the County Town of
Lenoxshire.
It was once considerable for its Trade, which is now much decay'd; but is still remarkable for its Castle, one of the strongest by Nature in
Europe
; being secured by the River on one Side, the
Firth
of
Clyde
on the other, by an impassable Morass on the third, and the fourth is a Precipice: Of this Castle the Earl of
Hay
is Governor.
Take
Buchanan
's Description of it, to the following Effect: Betwixt the Conflux of
Clyde
and
Leven
is a Plain about a Mile long, at the End of which, where the Rivers join, is a Rock with two Summits; on the Westermost is a Watch-tower, affording an extended Prospect into the neighbouring Country. The Eastern Summit is lower; and betwixt them are Steps cut out of the Rock, passable only by one Man at a time. When any Part is cut or falls off from the Rock, it emits a sulphureous Smell. At the upper Part of the Castle is a great Rock of Loadstone. The Rock is very steep on all Sides but towards the
Clyde,
where the Ascent is more easy; and betwixt the two Rocks is a Space of Ground inclosed by Art and Nature, which contains many Houses, makes a safe Harbour for Ships, under Protection of the Castle, and opens a Passage for Boats to the very Gate. On the Ascent in the Middle are Houses which look like another Castle, separated from the former. The same serves for a Ditch on the West, and the
Clyde
on the South; and the Tide comes up to the East-side; and on the North, where the Rock is steep, is a green Plain. Three Wells are in the Castle always flowing with Water, besides many Springs; so that it may well be deemed impregnable. The Town lies about half a Mile from it, on the Bank of the
Levin.
The
Roman
Wall, which begins at
Abercorn,
runs thro' this County, and ends at
Kilpatrick
on
Clyde,
a Regality of the Lord
Blantyre
's.
We now entered the large extended Country of
Argyll,
or the Western Islands, commonly called,
the Shire of Innerary,
from the principal Town, where the Duke of
Argyll
has his Residence. It comprehends, as I have said,
Argyllshire, Knapdale, Caval, Kintyre,
and
Lorn,
with the Western Isles of
Coll, Illcollimkil, Isla, Jura, Lismore, Mull, Tereff,
and
Wyst.
It is 120 Miles long, and 40 broad. It joins to
Perthshire
on the East, to
Lochaber
on the North-east, to the Isles on the North-west, and to the
Irish
Sea on the South.
Kintyre
is a Peninsula, which runs 30 Miles out into the
Irish
Sea, and is no more than 13, some say 16 Miles from
Ireland. Campbel-town,
made a Royal Burgh by King
William,
with a safe Harbour for Ships, lies in this County.
Camden
says, the People of this Part, formerly made Excursions into
Ireland,
and possessed themselves of the Provinces of
Gline
and
Rowle.
Knapdale
joins to
Kintyre
on the North by a narrow Neck of Land, scarce a Mile over, thro' which the People of the Country draw their small Vessels, to avoid sailing round to
Kintyre.
It abounds with Lakes and Bays, several of which contain Islands and Castles; and the Soil is generally fitter for Pasturage than Cultivation; yet it produces Corn in great Plenty.
Lorn
is the pleasantest and most fruitful Part of the Shire of
Argyll.
The Castle of
Dunstafage
stands in this County, formerly a Royal Seat, where several of the antient Kings are buried. The Family of
Campbell
was made Earls by King
James
II. of
Scotland.
They were a long time Lords Justices General of the Kingdom; but surrendered that Office to King
Charles
I. on a valuable Equivalent, besides having the Jurisdiction of
Argyll
and the Isles, and are still Great Masters of the King's Houshold in
Scotland.
They derive their Surname from the Castle of
Campbell,
and according to
Camden,
their Pedigree from the antient Kings of
Argyll,
by a long Series of Ancestors. The Earl of
Loudon,
the Earl of
Braidalbin,
the Earl of
Isla,
and other great Men, are of this Family.
The whole Shire of
Argyll,
taking in the above Parts, has seven Bays of the Sea entering into it, called, by the Inhabitants,
Lochs
; the chief is
Lochfyn,
famous for the Number and Goodness of its Herrings; it is said to be about 40 Miles in Length, and at the narrowest Place about four in Breadth.
Lochew,
according to Bishop
Lesly,
is almost as large as
Lochlomond,
and contains twelve Islands, in one of which is the Castle of
Enconel,
in another that of
Gleurquhart,
and where it enters the Sea, abounds with Salmon. The Sea-coast of
Argyll,
or as far as
Lochfyn,
abounds with high Rocks, and black Mountains covered with Heath, which afford Pasturage for Black Cattle and Deer. The Black Cattle run for the most part wild, but are excellent Meat; and their Fat, when boiled, does not congeal, as others, but continues for some Days like Oil. The Inhabitants make great Profit of them by selling them to the
Lowlanders.
The Duke of
Argyll
is hereditary Sheriff of this County. 'Tis an old Right of this Family, that when they marry any Daughter, their Vassals are obliged to pay their Portion, and are taxed in order to it, according to the Number of their Cattle.
From the
Mull
of
Cantyre
you see
Ireland
very plain, it being not above 15 or 16 Miles from the Point of Land, which they call the
Mull,
to the Fair
Foreland,
on the Coast of
Colrain,
on the North of
Ireland.
In the Mouth of this Sea of
Clyde
lies a Rock, somewhat like the
Bass
in the
Firth
of
Forth,
or of
Edinburgh,
not for Shape, but for this Particular, that at the
Bass
the
Solan
Geese are noted to come in the Season of the Fishery, and then fly back again. This Island is called the
Ailzey.
I shall here mention the Isles of
Bute
and
Arran. Buchanan
says, that of
Bute
is eight Miles long, and four broad; Bishop
Lesly,
that it is 10 Miles long. It is fruitful in Corn and Pasturage. It has a Royal Burgh called
Rothsay,
with an antient Castle. From this the Royal Family of
Stuart
is supposed to derive their Origin: And Duke of
Rothsay
is now one of the Titles of the Prince of
Wales.
It has another Castle called the Castle of
Kermes,
and four Churches. This Island lies in the Mouth of the
Clyde,
eight Miles West from
Arran,
and is remarkable for its Herring-fishing. The Isle of
Bute
gives Title of Earl to a Branch of the noble Family of
Hamilton,
who is the chief Proprietor, and heretable Coroner of the Island, and has a Seat at
Rosa
; as
Callartine
has at
Kermes,
and
Stuart
of
Ascog
another. Queen
Mary,
before she married Lord
Darnley,
conferred upon him the Title of Duke of
Rothsay.
Near
Bute
are two small Islands, called
Great
and
Little Cumbrays,
the Property of the Earl of
Glasgow.
The Isle of
Arran,
which with
Bute
make up one Sheriffdom, lies also in the Mouth of the
Clyde,
24 Miles in Length, and near 16 broad, fruitful in Corn and Pasturage. It is very well inhabited on the Coast, and is a safe and good Harbour, covered by
Lamlash
or the
Holy Isle.
It has two Churches, and several Castles, of which that of
Brodich
is the strongest and most noted, and is the Residence of the
Hamilton
Family when in these Parts, who also have a Forest here containing about 400 Head of Deer; and the Island gives Title of Earl to the Duke of that Name. The Island has several Rivers in it, which abound with Salmon, as the Sea about it does with Herrings, Cod and Whitings.
The People are Protestants, speak the
Irish
Language, and are still composed of several Tribes or Clans. The most ancient are
Mac-Lewis,
of
French
Extraction, in
English
named
Fullerton,
and Lairds of
Kirk-Michael,
where they reside.
These two Islands are surrounded with a tumultous and dangerous Sea, especially in a hard South-west Wind, which brings the Sea rolling in upon them in a frightful manner. But the above Harbour of
Lamlash
stands them in great stead in this Case.
Now we are upon these Western Coasts, I shall mention, that in the Month of
August
1740. an Attempt was made by Diving, to come at one of the largest Ships of the
Spanish
Armada, stranded in 1588. on these Coasts. Another was dived for some Years ago; but the Sand being loose, it turned to little or no Account. The other, which was lost near
Portin-cross,
was begun to be searched after by Sir
Archibald Grant,
and Captain
Roe,
in
August
1740. and the following was the Account that was transmitted to us, which we the rather insert, as it gives some Notion of the Operation by the Diving-engine.
The Country People had preserved by Tradition the Spot pretty near where she sunk, and gave them all the Information they were able: Immediately the Divers went to Work, and swept for her, which they do thus: They have a long Line, which they sink with Leads; one End of the Rope is fixed to one Boat, and the other End to another; they row; and whatever interrupts them, the Diver goes down to make a Discovery. They soon happened on the Place where the Ship lay, which is scarce a Quarter of a Mile from the Shore, in ten Fathom and a Foot Water. Captain
Roe
immediately went down, and found the Vessel to be very intire, to have a great Number of Guns on board, but to be full of Sand. The first Thing he fixed upon was a Cannon, which lay upon the Sand at the Head of the Ship: To this he fixed his Tongs, which are made of strong Bars of Iron; they are open when they are let down, and have Teeth which join into one another. As soon as they are fixed upon any thing, he gives the Signal, when they are made to shut, and the heavier the Subject, the closer they hold. The Cannon was drawn up with a good deal of Difficulty; it measures full nine Feet, is of Brass, greenish-coloured, but nothing the worse. On the Breach there is a
Rose,
with an
E
on the one Side and an
R
on the other, with this Inscription,
Richard and John Philips, Brethren, made this Piece, Anno
1584. But we may be allowed to observe, That by the
E. R.
on the Cannon, which denotes
Eliz. Regina,
and the
Rose,
as also the
English
Inscription of the Makers, it should seem to us, that it could not belong to the Armada; but rather to some
English
Ship, that might have been cast away there. Ten of these Brass Cannon, and ten Iron ones, have been since carried into
Dublin
; and they hope to recover sixty out of this Ship. The Guns were all charged, and the Metal of some, by lying so long under Water, moulders away like Clay.
Several People have scraped the Iron Guns, which are as mouldy as Bricks; and by keeping the Metal some time in their Hands, it grows so hot, that they are not able to bear it; but when it is exposed two or three Hours in open Air, it loses all its burning Quality. This is accounted for in the following Manner;
viz.
Dr.
Tournefort,
a
French
Physician, in his
Voyage to the Levant,
Part I. says: It is certain, that the Filings of Iron, steeped in common Water, will grow considerably warm, and much more so in Sea Water. And if you mingle therewith some Sulphur powdered, you will really see this Mixture burn.
Sir
Isaac Newton,
in the last Edition of his
Opticks, Pag.
354. says: That even the gross Body of Sulphur, powdered with an equal Weight of Iron Filings, and a little Water made into a Paste, acts upon the Iron; and in five or six Hours grows too hot to be touched, and emits a Flame.
Now it is certain, that cast Iron contains a great deal of Bitumen or Sulphur in its Composition, and that Iron in its sensible Quality effects Heat, and cannot be perceived without the Admission of Air; which is the Reason why the Scrapings should grow hot, altho' the Guns are actually cold to the Touch.
As I have given Accounts of several publick Charities, and other laudable Institutions, in the Southern Parts of
Britain,
it would be inexcusable not to mention the Society in
Scotland
for propagating Christian Knowledge in the
Highlands,
it being one of the worthiest Designs of the present Age; and as we shall include in it also a Description of the said
Highlands,
and of the
Scots
Islands besides; we cannot insert it in a more proper Place. It is comprehended in a Letter written
June
1739. from a Gentleman who is a great Encourager of this noble Institution, to his Friend; and is as follows:
"The Extent of the
Highlands
of
Scotland
is much greater than has commonly been imagined: From the
Mull
of
Kintyre
to
Farohead
in
Strathnavern,
is more than 200 Miles in a strait Line from South to North; and from
Farohead
to
John a Grot
's House, is above 60 Miles along the North and Northern Coast of the Continent: Besides, there is a vast Number of inhabited Islands, of which some are both large and populous: For instance,
Jura
is 24 Miles long;
Isla,
16;
Mull,
24;
Skye,
48;
Long-Island,
comprehending
Bara, Southuist, Northuist,
and
Lewes,
100; and many others, from two to 12 Miles in Length. The Isles of
Orkney
and
Zetland
are to be considered by themselves; for to
Orkney
alone belong thirty-three inhabited Islands, one of which is 24 Miles, and another 12, in Length. In
Zetland
there are about 30 inhabited Islands, some of which are six, others seven Miles long. Many of these Islands lie at considerable Distances from the Continent, and from one another, and are in Extent about one half of
Scotland.
"In this large Track of Country, Ignorance and Superstition greatly prevail: In some Places, the Remains even of Paganism are still to be found; and in many others, the Reformation from Popery has never yet obtained. The Parishes where Ministers are settled, are commonly of very great Extent, some 30, 40, 50 Miles long, and generally divided by impassable Mountains and Lakes; so that most of the Inhabitants, being destitute of all Means of Knowledge, and without any Schools to educate their Children, are intirely ignorant of the Principles of Religion and Virtue, live in Idleness and Poverty, have no Notion of Industry, or Sense of Liberty; are subject to the Command of their Popish disaffected Chieftains, who have always opposed the propagating Christian Knowledge, and the
English
Tongue, that they might with less Difficulty keep their miserable Vassals in a slavish Dependence. The poorer Sort have only the
Irish
Tongue, and little Correspondence with the civilized Parts of the Nation, and only come among them to pillage the more industrious Inhabitants: They are brought up in Principles of Tyranny and Arbitrary Government, depend upon foreign Papists as their main Support, and the native
Irish
as their best Correspondents and Allies. This has been the Source of all the Rebellions and Insurrections in that Country since the Revolution.
"On the other hand, they are naturally of a quick Genius, of great bodily Strength, inured to Hardship. Their Country is commodiously situated for the noblest Fishery in the World, of which our Neighbours have made immense Profit. They have Mines and Woods, and great Quantity of Black Cattle, and vast Tracks of improveable Land, which lie waste for want of Industry in the People, and not considering the Advantage of their Situation. They are a numerous and prolifick People; and, if reformed in their Principles and Manners, and usefully employed, might be made a considerable Accession of Power and Wealth to
Great Britain.
Some Clans of
Highlanders,
well instructed in the Arts of War, and well affected to the Government, would make as a
e and formidable a Body for their Country's Defence, as
Great Britain,
or
Switzerland,
or any Part of
Europe,
are able to produce.
"In the Year 1701, some Gentlemen of
Edinburgh
first considered of proper Methods for civilizing and reforming them; and agreed, that the setting up of Schools in different and convenient Places, for the instructing of their Youth in the
English
Tongue, and Principles of the Christian Religion, and disposing them to Virtue and Industry, would be the most likely and effectual Means. They joined in a voluntary Subscription among themselves, and engaged as many others in it as they could, which laid the first Foundation of this great and publick Design. They soon found the Work too heavy a Burden for a few private Hands, and made Application to her late Majesty Queen
Anne,
who was graciously pleased to approve and recommend the same by her Royal Proclamation, in the Year 1708: and in 1709. granted her Letters Patent, constituting and appointing a certain Number of the Subscribers to be a Society, or Body Politick, by the Name of,
The Society in
Scotland
for propagating Christian Knowledge in the Highlands, and Islands, &c.
with full Powers to receive Donations of Money,
&c.
and to purchase Lands,
&c.
not exceeding 2000
l.
a Year; and with the Profits and yearly Interest of the same to erect and maintain Schools, with many other Privileges and Regulations. The Lords of Session, or Judges in
Scotland,
according to her Majesty's Commission, nominated 82 Subscribers to be the first Members of the Society, all of them Persons of the best and most distinguished Characters; who at their first General Meeting chose a President, a Treasurer, a Secretary, and other Officers. They also chose a Committee of Fifteen, who meet every Month, or oftener, as they have Occasion. There is a General Meeting of the whole Society every three Months, when they assume new Members, make general Regulations, give Orders to the Committee, and receive their Accounts. All Proceedings, both of the Committee, and of the General Meeting, are recorded in distinct Books, which are always open to the Examination of every Contributor. The Names of the Contributors are kept in a distinct Register with an Account of the several Benefactions.
"In the Year 1710. they began to settle Schools in such Places as had never been reformed from Heathenism: And their capital Stock having yearly increased by the liberal Contributions of many Persons of all Ranks in
Great Britain,
and amounting to above 10000
l.
most of which is laid out upon good Security, they have increased their Schools in Proportion. Their Number at present is about 100, where above 4000 are taught
gratis,
to read, write, Arithmetick, and Psalmody. Many of the poorer Scholars have a weekly Allowance for their Maintenance, and Cloaths and Books provided for them. Great Care is taken, that the School-masters are Men of Probity, Capacity, and well affected to the Government; and they are obliged, besides the teaching the Children in the Schools, to instruct those in the Principles of Religion who are too old to come to School, and at too great a Distance from the Parish Church. Many Popish Parents have at length permitted their Children to be instructed.
"This Society has appointed Persons of Character and Consideration to be Visitors of their Schools, and to examine the Conduct and Diligence of the School-masters, and the Proficiency of the Scholars, and to transmit Accounts to them at
Edinburgh.
All possible Care is taken to manage the Money to the best Advantage, not a Farthing being diverted to any other Purpose; and all the principal Officers of the Society serve
gratis.
The Success of the Undertaking has answered all the Pains and Expence of the Society: There appears a great Disposition in the rising Generation to be instructed; many have learned to read the Scriptures, and attend Divine Service in
English,
where formerly the
Irish
Tongue was only understood. Several of the Scholars are capable of assisting the Masters; and some of them of being Masters of the Society's Schools. Many of them have attained to such Degrees of Knowledge, as to be admitted to the Celebration of the Lord's Supper. The Face of Reformation and Virtue begins to appear every-where; and there is Reason to apprehend, that in a few Years, Ignorance, Popery, and the
Irish
Language, will be utterly extirpated; and in their stead, Virtue, Loyalty, and Industry, will take Place.
"Nevertheless, the present Fund is far from being sufficient to the Vastness of the Design, as appears from the Report of the Commissioners, appointed by his late Majesty King
George, Anno
1716, to inquire into the State of the
Highlands
and Islands of
Scotland,
in pursuance of an Act of Parliament of the preceding Session, who gave it as their Opinion, That no Method was so likely to reduce these Countries to a State of Peace among themselves, and hearty Subjection to the present Government, as that of establishing Schools among them; and that over and above the present Number, one hundred and fifty more were absolutely necessary to render the Design fully effectual.
"This Report had so good an Effect, that it was enacted, (
Anno
4
Georgii
) in the Act for vesting the forfeited Estates in Trustees,
&c.
'That a Sum not exceeding 20000
l.
shall be appropriated towards making a capital Stock, for a yearly Interest or Income, out of the Moneys which shall arise by Sale of the said Estates which are in
Scotland,
towards erecting and maintaining Schools in the
Highlands,
&c. And in the Act (6
Georgii
) for laying a Duty on wrought Plate, there is a Proviso, That nothing therein shall invalidate the said Provision for Schools in the
Highlands,
&c. But notwithstanding this charitable Provision of the Legislature, 'tis much to be lamented, that neither that Country, nor this Society, ever reaped any Benefit by it, the Produce of the said Estates having been applied to other Purposes; whereby the reforming and civilizing of that Country is left to depend very much on private Contribution.
"I must not forget to observe, That the Society's Charter extends to Popish and Infidel Countries beyond the Seas, and that four Missionaries are maintained for converting the native
Indians
in
America
to the Christian Faith; three of which are stationed on the Frontiers of
New England,
between our Settlements and those of
French Canada,
by which Means the
Indians
in those Parts will more easily be kept in Subjection to our Government. The Charge of these three is in a great measure defrayed out of an Estate left to the Society by a late worthy Clergyman in
England
for that Purpose. The other Missionary is intirely supported at the Society's Charge in the new Colony of
Georgia
; where several of the poorer People are gone to reside.
"And to render this Design more fully a national Benefit, his present Majesty, from an earnest Desire to promote the Good of his Subjects in all Parts of his Dominions, was graciously pleased, in the Year 1738, to grant his Royal additional Charter, to cause such Children as they should find proper, to be instructed in Husbandry, Housewifry, and Manufactures. The Society is taking all proper Measures for erecting Working-schools; and have good Encouragement to hope, that the landed Gentlemen in the
Highlands
and Isles will not suffer themselves to be outdone by their Protestant Neighbours in
Ireland,
who took the first Hint from their Design; but will, like them, let out and make Grants of small Parcels of Ground to build their Schools, and for Kitchen-gardens and Agriculture; and for the raising of Hemp and Flax for the Linen Manufacture, which is now so greatly improved in that Country. This is the distinct State of the Case, in all the Circumstances and Steps of it.
"As this Undertaking is not the Work of a Party or Faction, but the common Cause of Christianity, and an Attempt to civilize vast Numbers of People, near half a Million, and make them useful to Society, who have been in a great measure useless, and in some Circumstances very hurtful to it; 'tis apprehended, That the Wealthy and Well-disposed, who have an hearty Zeal for the Honour of God, and the Good of the Souls of Men, a true Love for their Country, and the publick Welfare, or a due Concern for the Protestant Religion, and the present happy Establishment, cannot easily find any Instance of Usefulness more likely to turn to Account, or capable of answering more noble and extensive Purposes of Good."
Thus far this Gentleman: We shall add, That his Majesty gives 1000
l. per Annum
toward this noble Design.
I shall here subjoin the following List of the principal Seats of the Nobility and Gentry in the respective Counties of
North Britain,
having by the Course of my
Tour,
out of one County into another, as it was most convenient to me, not been able to confine myself to a Description of any one intire County in one Place.
Principal Seats in the County of
March
or
Merse.
Polwarth,
Earl of Marchmont
's; Blackader,
Sir J. Hume
's; Har
ass,
Sir Roger Hay
's; Allenbank,
Sir Robert Stewart
's; Nishet,
Car
's
of Cavers▪
Langton,
Cockburn
's; Mertin,
Sir William Scot
's; Heisel
and
Hume Castle,
Earl of Hume
's; Swinton,
Sir J. Swinton
's; Coldenknows,
Mr. Daes
's.
Teviotdale
or
Roxburgh.
Flems,
Duke of Roxburgh
's; Bridgout,
Sir William Kerr
's; Marlefield,
Sir William Bennet
's; Kingdale,
Sir William Scot
's; Ancram,
Sir John Scot
's; Cavers,
Archibald Douglass
's; Riddal,
Sir Walter Riddal
's; Wooley
and
Stobs,
Sir Gilbert Elliot
's; Bransholm,
Duke of Buccleugh's,
&c.
Annandale.
Wester-hall,
Sir John Johnstoun
's; Lither-hall,
Mr. Ro. Johnstann
's; Lockwood,
Marquis Annandale
's; Applegirth,
Sir John Jarden
's; Kelhead,
Sir William Douglass
's; Springkell,
Sir Patrick Maxwell
's; Hawmains,
Sir John Caruther
's; Castle-milk,
Sir John Douglass
's; Dornoch,
— Douglass
's; Kelburn,
Thomas Scot
's; Erkleton,
William Elliot
's; Langholm,
— Melvin
's; Ramersk
ll,
T. Caruther
's; Denby,
Jo. Caruther
's; Drumlanrig,
Duke of Queensberry
's; Terecles,
Earl of Nithsdale
's; Closburn,
Kilpatrick
's.
Annandale
and
Nithsdale
make up only one Shire, but are distinct Stewarties.
East Lothian.
North Berwick,
Sir Hugh Dalrymple
's; Divleton,
Mr. Nisbet
's; Yester,
Marquis Twedale
's; Seaton
and
Winton,
Earl of Winton
's; Leith,
Mr. Heyburn
's; Salton,
Mr. Fletcher
's; Elphingston,
Lord Primrose
's; Byers,
Earl Hopton
's; Hermiston,
Mr. Sinclair
's; Hales,
Sir James Dalrymple
's; Lidington,
Lord Blantyre
's; Ormiston,
Mr. Cockburn
's; Tynningham,
Earl of Haddington
's; Broxburn,
Duke of Roxburgh
's; Newbaith,
Sir William Baird
's; Banereeth,
Lord Elibank
's; Bell,
Lord Beelhaven
's; Spot,
Lord David Hays
's; Gilmerton,
Sir. Fr. Kinlock
's, &c.
Mid Lothian.
Holyrood-house,
the King
's; Dalkeith,
Duke of Buccleugh
's; Newbottle,
Marquis of Lothian
's; Dalhousie,
Earl of Dalhousie
's; Roseberry,
Earl of Roseberry
's; Borthwick,
Sir I. Dalrymple
's; Rosline,
— Sinclair
's; Cranstoun,
Sir I. Dalrymple
's; Cranstoun Ridel,
Viscount Oxenford
's; Preston-hall,
Lord Justice Clerk;
Smetoun,
Sir Ja. Richardson
's; Roystoun,
Sir Ja. Mackenzie
's; Barntoun,
Earl of Rutherglen
's; Elphinstoun,
Viscount Primrose
's; Haltoun,
Earl of Lauderdale's;
Arnistoun,
Mr. Ro. Dundass
's; Shank,
late Mackenzie
's; Pinkie,
Marquis Twedele
's; Addistoun,
Mr. Gibson
's; Collingtoun,
Sir Ja. Fowles
's; Bonningtoun,
Sir Ro. Chesly
's; Melvin Castle,
Lord Ross
's; Cranstoun,
Mr. W. Maitland
's; Inch,
Sir Alexander Gilmore
's; Priestfield,
Sir Ja. Dick
's; Wolmet,
— Wallace
's; Dredon,
G. Lockhart
's; Corstorfin,
Lord Forrester
's.
West Lothian,
or
Linlithgowshire.
Linlithgow,
the King's;
Cragy-hall,
Marquis of Annandale
's; Gogar,
Sir Andrew Morton
's; Newliston,
Earl of Stair
's; Kenneil,
Duke of Hamilton
's;
Dalmeny,
Earl of Roseberrie
's; Caridden,
Earl of Dalhousie
's; Bineis,
Sir F. Dalzeil
's; Hoptoun,
Earl of Hoptoun
's; Blackness,
a Garison.
Shire of
Selkirk.
Hanging-shaw,
— Murray
's; Whitford,
Robert Scot
's; Newark,
Lord Elibank
's; Minto,
Sir Gilbert Elliot
's.
Shire of
Peebles,
or
Twedale.
Nidpath,
Earl of March
's; Traquair,
Earl of Traquair
's; Davick,
Sir Ja. Nasemith
's.
Other Seats are those called;
Pern, Grieston, Cardron, Ormisten, Horseburgh-castle, Smithfield, Darlihall, Manners-castle, Pos
-Caverhille, Barns, Drumelzier, Stenhop, Pomud, Wilkiston, Hawkshaw, Kinglidores, Kuttlehall, Littlehop, Hartrey, Skirlin, Fowlege, Lower Urd, Quota, Urd Church, Halmire, Romano-Drokel.
And many others.
Galloway.
Clarie, Glaston
and
Garlies,
Earl of Galloway
's; Castle-Kenmure,
Viscount of Kenmure
's; Castle-Kenedy,
formerly Earl of Cassil
's,
now Earl of Stair
's; Dunskey,
belonging to the Adairs;
Garthland,
to the Macdowals;
Lochnaw,
to the Agnews;
Raveston,
Stewart
's
of Castlemilk;
Sorbie,
Colonel James Stewart
's; Mockrum,
Sir James Dunbar
's; Baldon,
Lady Mary Hamilton
's; Crugulton, Clary, Cuthbert, Cardonesse, Ruscow
; and many others.
Cunningham.
The
Cone,
Kennedy
's; Craigy,
Sir T. Wallace
's; Dunchanan,
Sir J. Ferguson
's; Askins,
Earl of Dundonald
's; Closeburn,
Sir T. Kilpatrick
's; Girvenmains,
Sir T. Kennedy
's; Stair,
Earl of Stair
's;
Euterkin,
Cunningham
's; Garthgirth,
Chambers
's; Capington,
Sir W. Cunningham
's; Adamton,
Blair
's; Corsby,
Fullerton
's; Kyle,
Crawford
's; Kilbirny,
Lord Viscount Garnock
's.
Renfrew.
Paisley,
Earl of Dundonald
's; Castle-Cruikston
and
Inchinnen,
late Duke of Lenox
's; Cordonal,
Lord Blantyre
's; Nether-Pollock,
Sir John Maxwell
's; Arskine,
Lord Blantyre
's; Castle-Semple,
Lord Semple
's; Greenock,
Sir J. Shaw
's; Houston,
Houston
's; Stainly,
Johnston
's; Finlaston,
Earl of Glencairn
's; Pollock,
Sir R. Pollock
's; Ardgouan,
Sir. A. Stewart
's
; and many others, besides
Ellersly,
of which was the Family of the great Wallace.
Clydsdale.
Dowglas Castle,
Duke of Dowglas
's; Hamilton,
Duke of Hamilton
's; Carmichael,
Earl of Hyndford
's Halk-head,
Lord Rosse
's; Carnwarth,
Mr. Lockhart
's; Lee,
Sir — Lockhart
's; Malesley,
Mr. Carmichael
's; Crawford,
Earl of Selkirk
's; Lamington,
Mr. Baillie
's; Rosehall,
Sir James Hamilton
's Torrence,
— Stewart
's; Dolphington,
Mr. Brown
's; &c.
Stirlingshire.
The chief Families of this County are the Levingstons, of whom the Earl of Callendar, a Branch of the Family of Lithgow, had a Seat nere at
Callendar-Castle,
and was hereditary Sheriff of County; and
mings, who
ve their Seats at
Cum
rr
,
which they had from King
R
Bruce,
for their noble Service in Defence of their Country; the Lord Elphinston, who has
is Seat at
Elphinston-Castle
; the Murrays, S
, Grahams, Napers, Buchanans, Bruces, Stirlings,
&c.
Other Seats here are,
Bannockburn,
Sir H. Paterson
's; Kilsyth,
Viscount Kilsyth
's; Dunipace,
Sir Archibald Primrose
's; Keir,
Mr. Stirling
's; Polhouse,
Mr. Rollo
's; Herbertshire,
Mr. Stirling
's; Kilearn,
Mr. Graham
's; Carden,
Mr. Stirling
's, &c.
Lenox.
Mugdock-Castle,
Duke of Montrose
's; Roseneath,
Duke of Argyll
's; Rosedue,
Colquhon
's; Ardincaple,
Mackalan
's
; and many others.
Argyllshire.
Lochgaer,
Sir J. Campbel
's; Kilchurn,
Earl of Braidalbin
's
; and many others of the Campbels, Macdowgals,
&c.
Perthshire.
Blair-Castle
and
Hunting-Tower,
Duke of Athol
's; Taymouth,
Earl of Braidalbin
's; Methuen,
Mr. Smith
's; Kincardin,
Duke of Montrose
's; Duplin,
Earl of Kinnoul
's; Stobhall,
Earl of Perth
's; Machiney
and
Incheffrey,
Viscount
Strathallan
's
; Scone,
Viscount Stormont
's; Gask,
Mr. Oliphant
's; Balgowan,
Mr. Graham
's; Abercarny,
Sir — Murray
's; Duncrob,
Lord Rollo
's.
Many other considerable Gentlemens Seats are in this County; the principal Families are the
Murrays,
the
Hays,
the
Stuarts, Drummonds, Campbels, Grahams, Oliphants, Ruthvens, Ogilvies, Haldens, Robertsons, Rollos, Kinnairds, Blairs, Toschobs, Menzies, Fullertons, Nairns, Rosses.
Clackmanan.
Alloway,
late the Earl of Mar
's; Kennet,
Col. Bruce
's; Menstry,
late Sir James Holburn
's; Tillibody,
Abercromby
's; Tillicutry,
Stewart
's; Sawchie,
Sir John Shaw
's
of
Greenock.
Fife.
Castle-Lesley,
Earl of Rothes
's; Struthers,
Earl of Crawford
's; Weems,
Earl of Weems
's; Kelly,
Earl of Kelly;
Abbots-hall,
Sir Ant. Ramsey
's; Melvil,
Earl of Melvil;
Cambo,
Sir A. Erskin
's; Balkask,
Sir J. Anstruther
's; Dury,
Sir A. Gibson
's; Balgony,
Earl of Leven;
Balcarras,
Earl of Balcarras;
Dunnibersel,
Earl of Murray;
Aberdour,
Earl of Morton;
Ravenshugh,
Lord Sinclair;
Burnt-island,
Mackenzie
's.
Other Families of Note are: Lord
Burleigh,
Lord
Lindaw,
Lord
Balmerinoch;
also the
Arnots, Anstruthers, Erskins, Beatons, Kinneers, Barclays, Balcanquals, Bruces, Browns, Boswels, Colvils, Carstairs, Creightons, Cunninghams, Clephans, Forbes's, Gibsons, Hamiltons, Hendersons, Hackets, Hays, Hopes, Heriots, Inglis's, Kirkaldies, Kinningmounts, Lundies, Lumsdales, Monnypennys, Moncriefs, Mirtons, Macgils, Orocks, Pitcairns, Prestons, Scots, Sibbalds, Wardlaws,
and
Woods.
Angus.
Dun,
Erskin
's,
Lord of Session;
Inglishmady,
Falconer
's
of
Newton; Hetherwick,
Mr. Scot
's; Burowfield,
Mr. Taylor
's; Fullerton,
Mr. Fullerton's;
Pittarow,
Sir David Carnagy
's; Newmans Walls,
Mr. Scot
's
of Logy;
Galro,
Mr. Falconer
's; Brime,
Turnbull
's
of
Stircathro; Edgeyill,
Mr. Lindsay
's; Old Bar,
Mr. Robert Young
's; Carse,
Lyon
's; Morphie,
Mr. Graham
's; Loggy,
Mr. Wishart
's; Balmiquien,
Barclay
's; Kirktownhill,
Ferguson
's; Grange,
Mr. James Martin
's; Achterhouse,
Mr. Patrick Lyon
's; Maine,
Mr. David Graham
's
of
Fintri; Castle Pouri,
Mr. Pouri
's; Lethem,
Sir James Wood
's
of
Bonitoun; Bonitoun,
Mr. Ferguson
's; Montrose,
Earl of Middleton
's; Craig
and
Rossie,
Scot
's
of
Rossie; Duinald,
Mr. Robert Scot
's; Ulysses-Haven,
Mr. Patrick Renny
's; Glamis,
Earl of Strathmore
's; Panmure
and
Brechin,
Earl of Panmure
's; Kinnard,
Earl of Southesk
's; Ethie,
Earl of Northesk
's; Carriston,
Stewart
's
of
Garntully; Fotheringham,
T. Fotheringham
's;
Inverharitie,
Mr. J. Ogilvie
's; Blackness,
Mr. Wedderbuin
's; Craigy,
Mr. Kied
's.
Merns.
Halkerton,
Lord Halkerton
's; Arbuthnot,
Viscount Arbuthnot
's; Fetteresso,
Earl Marshal
's; Elsick,
Sir Alexander Bannerman
's; Leys,
Sir Thomas Burnet
's; Balmain,
Sir David Ramsey
's; Fettercairn,
Earl of Middleton
's; Glenbervy,
late Sir — Dowglass
's; Benholm,
Mr. Scot
's; Pittarrow,
Sir James Carnagy
's; Fordon,
Arbuthnot
's; Fasque,
Sir Alexander Ramsey
's; Phesdo,
Falconer
's; Kirkside,
Straton
's, &c.
Aberdeenshire.
Kildrummy,
late Earl of Mar
's; Inverugy,
Earl Marshal
's; Keith-hall,
Earl of Kintore
's; Pitsligo,
Lord Pitsligo
's; Kainburgh,
Col. Buchan
's; Dalgety,
Earl of Errol
's; Aboyn,
Earl of Aboyn
's; Muckwall,
Lord Frazer
's; Pitmedden,
Sir Alexander Seton
's; Knockhall,
Mr. Woodny
's; Drum,
Mr. Irwin
's; Cragievar,
Sir Arthur Forbes
's; Tolquham,
Mr. Forbes
's; Monemusk,
Sir William Forbes
's; Castle-Forbes,
Lord Forbes
's; Crathes,
Sir Thomas Burnet
's
of
Leyth; Frendraught,
late Lord Frendraught
's; Philorths,
Lord Salton
's; Fetterneer
belongs to Count Lesly in Germany;
Fyvi
,
late Earl of Dumfermling
's; Tyri,
Mr. Frazer
's; Kelly,
Earl of Aberdeen
's; Udoch,
Mr. Symson
's.
Shire of
Bamff
and
Buchan.
Other Seats in this County are,
Cullen
and
Deskford,
the Earl of Finlater
's; Indruer,
Lord Bamff
's; Craig
of
Boyne,
Ogilvie of Boyne
's; Birkenboge,
Sir James Abercrombie
's; Park,
Sir John Gordon
's; Durn,
Sir James Dunbar
's; Fotherglen,
Sir Alexander Ogilvie
's; Rothemay,
Mr. Gordon
's; Pittendrish,
lately Lord Oliphant
's; Kinardie,
Mr. Donaldson
's; Castle-grant,
the Laird of Grant
's;
Crombie
and
Bracco,
Duff of Duff
's
; now an Irish Peer;
Glasshaugh,
Abercromby Lord Semple
's; Balendalish
and
Carron,
the Laird of Grant
's; Torsken, Glengerask, Buskie
and
Achentoul,
Gordon of Gordon
's; Skeith,
Mr. Abercromby
's; Kimminity,
Sutherland of Sutherland
's; Mapen,
Mr. Abernethie
's; Rannes,
Mr. Hay
's; Bognie,
Morison
's
of Morison.
Murray
and
Elgin.
The chief Seats in both Shires are,
Gordonstoun,
Sir Robert Gordon
's; Kilravock,
Mr. Rose
's; Calder,
Sir — Campbel
's; Lethin
and
Brody,
Mr. Brodie
's; Muirton,
Sir James Calder
's; Castle Forres,
Dumbar
's
of Westfield;
Castle-grant,
Sir — Grant
's; Tarnaway,
Earl of Murray
's; Spynie,
late Bishop of Murray
's; Elgin,
Duke of Gordon
's
; — Lord Duffo
's; Innes,
Sir H. Innes
's.
Shire of
Inverness.
Castle-Urchart,
Sir Ludowick Grant
's; Glengary Castle,
Macdonald
's; Dunvegan,
Macleod
's; Duntulm,
Sir Donald Macdonald
's
of Slate;
Dalcross,
Mackintosh
's; Done,
Lord Lovat
's; Ercules,
Chisholm
's
of Comeris;
Glenmoriston,
the Laird of Grant
's; Lochyel,
Sir Ewen Cameron
's, &c.
Cromarty.
Cromarty Castle
; Sir Ken. Mackenzie;
Castle-Leod,
Earl of Cromarty;
New Tarbat,
ditto;
Castlehaven,
ditto.
Ross.
Fowlis-Castle,
Monroe
's; Beaulieu,
Lord Lovat
's; Milton,
Innes;
Balnagowan,
Rosse
's; Brahan-Castle,
late Earl of Seaforth
's; Red-castle,
Mr. Mackenzie
's; Craig-house,
Rosse of Kilraock
's; Innerbrochy,
Sir William Gordon
's; Pittonarchy,
Mackenzie
's
of Scatwel,
&c. Ylendonen Castle,
the King's. It has a Garison, and the Earl of
Seaforth
was Hereditary Constable of the Castle.
Sutherland
and
Caithness.
The chief Families here are the
Gordons, Sutherlands, Murrays, Mackays, Crays, Clancummins, Seil-Thomas's, Seil-Johns, Seil-Phaleys. Castle-Sinclair
is the Seat of the Earl of Caithness. Earl of Braidalbin has great Estates in
Caithness.
The
Sinclairs
once possessed
Orkney
and
Shetland,
and were allied to the Royal House of
Denmark,
as I have observed before. The
Keiths
and
Mowats
have Possessions in
Caithness. Thurse-Castle
was a Seat that belonged to the Bishop of
Caithness; Dumheath
is Sir W. Sinclair
's
of
May; Scelbo,
Lord Duffus
's; Murkle,
Earl of Caithness
's; Hemprigs,
Sir W. Dunbar
's; Duren,
Mr. Sinclair
's, &c.
LETTER V.
SIR,
I SHALL now present you with as brief and accurate an Account as I can give you of the Islands of most considerable Note, lying adjacent, or belonging to this Northern Part of the Island of
Great Britain,
beginning, first, with
The Western Isles of
Scotland.
THese Islands lie in the
Deucaledonian
Sea, and were called, by some,
Hebrides.
The most Southern of them is the
Isle of
MAN, which for several Generations has belonged to Families, who have been Homagers to the Crown of
England
for it: Wherefore I shall pass it by with these Remarks, That when it became intirely subject to the
English,
it kept a distinct Bishop of its own, whose Successors continued the Title of
Episcopi Sodorenses,
as well as added that of
Mannenses,
as if they had been Bishops of the
Isles
also, whose Cathedral was at
Sodor
; and as many of the Towns therein are called by
Scots
Names, so at present it belongs to a
Scots
Peer,
James
Duke of
Athol,
who lately succeeded to this Isle, as Heir at Law to his Cousin
James
Earl of
Derby.
The Isles of BUTE and ARRAN I have already mentioned.
AILSA, or
Islesay,
in the Mouth of the
Clyde,
is a steep Rock, something resembling the
Bass
in the Mouth of
Forth,
being inaccessible in all Places, but only by one Pass, and not inhabited, except at one time of the Year, when a great Fleet of Vessels come thither to fish for Cod. It abounds with Variety of Sea-fowl, especially
Solan
Geese, and has Multitudes of Rabbets. It belongs to the Earl of
Cassil,
who receives, by the Produce of Hogs, Fowl, Down, and Fish, about 100 Marks
Scots
yearly from hence.
Near the Isle of
Bute
lie two Islands, called CUMBRA, the
Greater
and
Lesser
; the first is about a Mile in length, has a Church in it, and a Well, the Waters of which are reckoned, by the Natives, good against all Diseases: The other Island is less, and both belong to
Montgomery
of
Skelmerly
; the larger is fruitful in Corn, and the smaller abounds with Deer.
Near the Isle of
Arran,
is FLADA, a small Island, which abounds with Rabbets.
South-west from
Bute
lies MERNOCK, about a Mile long, and half a Mile broad, fruitful in Corn.
About a Mile from the Promontory of
Kintyre
lies AVONA, which signifies,
a good Harbour.
The
Danes
came hither with their Fleets, when they were Masters of the Isles.
The next remarkable Island is GIGAIA, four Miles from
Kintyre,
six Miles in Length, and a Mile and a half in Breadth. The Inhabitants are Protestants. There is a Church in this Island, and a Sepulchre for the
Macneils,
the Proprietors of it.
Corkir,
which dyes a Crimson Colour, and
Crostil,
which dyes a Philamote, grow upon the Stones here. The Soil is good for Pasture and Arable. They have also a Medicinal Well, which they esteem a Catholicon.
A Quarter of a Mile South lies CARY, about a Mile in Compass, has good Pasturage, and abounds with Rabbets. It belongs to the Family of
Macalister.
JURA lies twelve Miles from
Gigaia,
is 20 Miles long, and six or seven broad; it belongs to the Duke of
Argyll,
and makes Part of the Shire of that Name. This is very barren, but reckoned one of the wholsomest Places in
Scotland:
Here Women seldom die in Child-bed; and one
Macrain
died in the Reign of King
Charles
II. who had been 180
Christmas's
in one House. It abounds with many Deer, has good Pasturage for other Cattle, has many good Springs, and one against Nauseousness of the Stomach and Stone. Here are two very high Mountains, called
The Paps of
JURA; which are noted Sea-marks for a very great Way. From
March
to
September
the Air is perfectly pure. There are very good Salmon in the Rivers of this Island. They have one Church here, called
Killearn.
The Inhabitants, who speak
Irish,
and wear the Plaid and Bonnet, are Protestants.
Two Miles from
Jura
lies SCARBA, four Miles long, and one broad; noted for its extraordinary Tides, and the Longevity of its Inhabitants; one of whom, a Woman, lived 140 Years.
Near to these lie many Islands of less Note, which I have not room to name. LISMORE, or
Lessimore,
the Seat of the Bishop of
Argyll,
who from thence was called
Episcopus Lismorensis,
is about eight Miles long, and two broad, and lies Eastward from
Mull
in the Mouth of
Lock-yol,
which goes up to
Innerlochy
in
Lochaber.
BERNERA, formerly a Sanctuary in Popish Times, has a noble Wood of Yew. In this Isle, which is five Miles in Circumference, and lies about two Leagues to the South of
Harries,
were, as Mr.
Toland
relates, two Ravens, which beat off all Birds of Prey; and when their Young are able to fly abroad, they expel them also out of the Island; but not without many Blows, and a great Noise. In this Island, moreover, there is a fresh-water Lake, called
Lochbruist,
where many Land and Seafowl build. There were, according to the same Author, a couple of Ravens like the former in a small Isle near
North-Vist
; as also upon the Isle of
Troda
near
Skye.
South-west from
Jura
lies ILA, 24 Miles long, in some Places eight, and in others sixteen broad; it abounds with Corn and Cattle, has Store of Deer and Lead Mines, with Lime-stone in vast Quantities. It has several Rivers, that abound with Salmon, and other Fish of several Sorts. In the Centre of it lies
Lochfinlagan,
three Miles in Circumference. It abounds with Salmon, Trouts, and Eels, and has an Island in it, where
Macdonald,
King of the Isles, had his Residence, and made it the Seat of his Government: The Ruins of whose Court are still to be seen here. There are several fresh-water Lakes in this Island, with Forts upon them. It has also a Medicinal Well, much frequented by the Natives for all Diseases. There are several Caves here, one of them capable of holding 200 Men. The Country is indifferently fruitful. It lies lower than
Jura
; consequently is wetter and less wholsome. The Inhabitants are Protestants. There are four Churches and a Chapel in this Island, the most remarkable of which is St.
Columbus
's Church. It gives the Title of Earl to a Son of the Family of
Argyll
; but
Campbel
of
Calder
is the chief Proprietor, and also Steward of the Crown here.
There are many small Islands about this, which we cannot mention.
Two Leagues North
Ila
lies COLONSA, separated from
Oransa
only
de of Flood. It is four Miles in Length, and a
broad, not so fruitful as the other. There is one Church besides two ruinous Chapels in this Isle; some fresh-water Lakes abounding with Trouts; and several Forts. The Proprietor is the Duke of
Argyll,
and the Inhabitants Protestants.
ORANSA is four Miles in Circumference, and fruitful in Corn and Grass: It has also a Church and a Chapel, and had formerly a Monastery dedicated to St.
Columbus.
The Proprietor is
Macduffi.
Farther West lies the small Isle of DOWHIRTA. The Natives have a Tradition that
Pygmies
once lived here. The Duke of
Argyll
is Proprietor.
North-east from
Ila
lies the Isle of MULL, 24 Miles in Length, and near as much in Breadth: It lies in the Shire of
Argyll.
The Air is temperate, cold, and moist, but qualified by fresh Breezes from the Mountains. The Natives, when the Season is moist, take a large Dose of
Aquavitae
for a Corrective, and chew a Piece of Charmel Root when they intend to be merry, to prevent Drukenness. This Island in general affords good Pasturage for Cattle of all Sorts. They have a great many Deer, and abound with Wild-fowl, and very fine Hawks. Their Horses are little, but very sprightly; their Black Cattle excellent Meat. Their Corn is Barley and Oats. It formerly abounded with Wood, but most of it is now cut. The Heaths, besides Pasturage for Cattle, afford good Fuel for the Natives. The Bay of
Duart,
on the West-side, is a good Anchoring-place. Upon this stands the Castle of
Duart,
the Seat of the Head of the antient Family of
Maclean,
who were the chief Proprietors of this Island; but Sir
John Maclean
having forfeited, it is now possessed by the Duke of
Argyll.
There are two other Castles, and several Anchoring-places about this Island. It has several Rivers, which afford Salmon, and abound with black Muscles, which breed Pearl. There are also some fresh-water Lakes in it, which afford Trout, Eels,
&c.
Several lesser Isles lie about it, and in its Bays, several of which are very fruitful, and some are impregnable. The Bay called
Lochleffan
abounds with Herring and Shell-fish. The Inhabitants of this Isle profess Protestantism, and have two Parish Churches, besides several ruinous Places, formerly used for Devotion. In the Sound or Bay of
Mull,
betwixt this Isle and
Lochaber,
a great Ship called the
Florida,
belonging to the
Spanish Armada,
was lost in the Year 1588. Persons from several Places have often dived for her, and found good Account in the Guns, and other valuable Effects they have got out of her. I have already mentioned,
Pag.
235. the further Attempts of this Nature by Captain
Roe.
Near this lies the Island of ST. COLUMBUS, two Miles in Length, and about a Mile broad: It abounds in all Things produced in this Climate, was noted for antient Monuments, and particularly as being the Residence of
St. Columbus,
famous for his Discipline and Sanctity. It had two Monasteries, one for Men, and another for Women, besides several Chapels endowed by the Kings of
Scotland,
and of the Isles: It is called in the
Irish
Language
I-colm-kil
; some call it
Iona:
It contains now about 30 poor Families. The Bishops of the Isl
had formerly their Seat here: This Island is famous in History for being a Seminary of Ecclesiasticks, and in a manner the Mother Church of all the Dominions of the
Scot
and
Picts
; and tho' the Abbot was only a Presbyter, yet all the Clergy of the Province, and Bishops themselves, were subject to him, as is mentioned by
Bede.
The Church dedicated to St.
Mary,
is intirely demolished, and overgrown with Grass and Weeds; nor is there any regular Place of Worship in the whole Island. Here the Vicar of
S
bee,
as Dean of the
Isles,
used three or four times a Year to catechize and preach to the People. The old Monastery, or College of Monks, was a Place of great Sanctity and Privilege, of which temporal Privileges the Abbot was Superior, and in many things exempt from the Bishop, being subject only to the Pope, or his Delegates. The Bishops of the
Isles
were called
Episcopi Sodorenses,
from
Sodor,
which is usually said to have been a Village in this Island: But I very much question it; for some Criticks say, it should be
Soterenses,
from the Church dedicated
, to our Saviour, which however seems too learned an Etymology for the Time of building the Church; or from St.
Ouren
's Church, which, by Corruption, or an easy Transition, might soon dwindle from
Sant
urensis
into
Sodorensis.
If this Conjecture be true, then
St. Ouren
's was the
Cathedral,
and the Church in the Abbey,
Conventual
only.
Six Miles West from this Island lies TYRE-TY, eight Miles long, and three broad; it is reckoned to be the most plentiful of all the Islands in Necessaries of human Life, abounding with Corn, Cattle, Fish, and Fowl. Here is a fresh-water Lake, with an Island and an old Castle in it, and an Harbour for Long-boats, which are used in that Country. It formerly belonged to the Family of
Maclean,
but now to the Duke of
Argyll.
There is one Church in this Island, called
Sorabi,
whereof the Dean of the
Isles
was Minister. The People are Protestants: they are not very healthy, as the Country lies low.
Near this are two Islands, called KERNIBERG, so strong by Nature, that a little Art would make them impregnable.
About half a League to the North-east lies the Island of COLL, ten Miles long, and two broad, and is very fruitful: It has several Rivulets, which afford Salmon, and a fresh-water Lake, that has Trouts and Eels. The Proprietor is a Branch of the Family of
Maclean.
The Inhabitants are Protestants. They have a Notion here, that
Tyre-ty
breeds more Women than Men, and
Coll
more Men than Women; so that they may people each other without the Assistance of their Neighbours. The Coasts of this Island abound with larger Cod and Ling, than are to be found on the Coasts of the neighbouring Isles and Continent.
North from this lies the Isle of RUM, six Miles long, and four broad: It is mountainous and heathy, but the Coast is arable and fruitful: It is but thinly inhabited, and the Sea Fowl lay their Eggs in such Quantities, that in the Spring any one may gather what Number he pleases. The Rivulets of this Island afford Salmon, and there is plenty of Land and Sea Fowl, especially those called
Puffins:
There are also abundance of Deer in the Mountains. The Proprietor is
Maclean
of
Coll,
and the Inhabitants are Protestants.
Half a Mile from
Rum
lies CANNEY, two Miles long, and one Mile broad, surrounded with an high Rock, but plentiful in Corn and Grass, and the Coasts abound with Cod and Ling. In the North-end there is a Rock of Loadstone, as some think, because it disorders the Needle of the Compass, when any Ships come near it. It has one Church, and good Anchorage on the North-east. The Proprietor is one of the
Macdonalds,
and the Inhabitants Papists.
MUCK lies South-west of
Rum,
is about four Miles in Circumference, fruitful in Corn and Grass, surrounded with Rocks, and noted for good Hawks.
EGG lies not far from
Coll,
is three Miles in Length, and a Mile and a half in Breadth, and the Whole pretty good for Pasturage and Cultivation. On the South-end of it is a Mountain, and on the Top of that a high Rock, of about 150 Paces in Circumference, with a fresh-water Pool in the Middle of it; there is only one Pass up to it, so that it is a natural Fort. On the South-west Side of the Isle is a Cave, capable of containing some Hundreds of People, and there are several Medicinal Wells in this Island. The Proprietors are some of the
Macdonalds:
the Inhabitants bigotted Papists.
North from this lies SKYE, 42 Miles long, and in some Places 20, in others 30 Miles broad. It is separated from the Shire of
Inverness,
to which it belongs, by a Firth so narrow, that a Man may easily call from one Side to the other. It is navigable by the largest Ships of War. The Current there is so violent, that no Vessel is able to sail against it, tho' the Wind prove ever so fair, so that the Tide must always be observed. The way of Ferrying Cows in the narrow Ferry, called the
Kyle,
where the Tide is very rapid, is thus: They tie a Withe about the Cow's Lower-jaw, and bind five of them together; after which, a Man in the End of a Boat holds the Withe that ties the foremost, and rows over, carrying in the Space of a few Hours, at Low-water, three or four Hundred Cows. The Country is populous, the People handsome, and very healthy. Almost all the Inhabitants of
Skye
are Protestants. None of them possess any Land. It is very high Ground, as well on the Coast as up in the Country, where there are seven lofty Mountains, which lie near one another, almost in the Centre of the Island. It has a great deal of arable Land, which yields a good Increase; so that they supply the neighbouring Continent with Barley and Oats. It has many excellent Bays and Harbours for the Conveniency of Fishing, and other Trade, and about 30 Rivers, which afford Salmon.
ST. COLUMBUS's Lake has an Island and a Chapel in it. Most of the Bays abound with Herrings all the Summer; the Natives dry, and preserve them without Salt for eight Months, without any other Art than taking out their Guts, tying a Rush about their Necks, and hanging them up by Pairs upon a Rope of Heath across the House. Cod, Ling, Mackrel, Haddock, Whiting, Turbet,
&c.
abound on this Coast, as do Oysters, and all other Sorts of Shell-fish. There are many large Caves in this Island, from the Roof of some of which there drops a Water, which petrifies into a white limy Substance; one of them in
Slate,
called the
Golden Cave,
is said to be seven Miles long. There are abundance of old Forts on the Coast, which seem to have been erected by the
Danes
; they stand on rising Grounds, and so near one another, that by a Beacon fired on any one of them, the Notice of any approaching Danger by Invasion was immediately spread thro' the whole Island. There are also several little Houses of Stone built under Ground, for hiding People and their Goods in time of War; and others above Ground capable only of holding one Person, which seem to have been designed for Contemplation. There are several of the
Druids
Houses yet intire in the Isle of
Skye,
and in some other Isles. The Vulgar in the Islands still shew a great Respect for these Houses, and never come to the ancient sacrificing Carns, but they walk three times round them from East to West, according to the Course of the Sun. The Cattle here are Horses, Cows, Sheep, Goats, and Hogs; the Cows frequently feed on the Sea-weed, and observe the Tide of Ebb for that End, as exactly as any Man can do. This Island abounds with Land and Water-fowl of many Sorts, and among others they have Hawks and Eagles. It belongs to Sir
Alexander Macdonald,
some of whose Ancestors were called Kings of the
Isles
; the middle Parts belong to
Mackinnon
of that Ilk, and the North-west Parts belong to
Macleod
; all three Chiefs of their several Clans.
SOTA-BRITIL lies a quarter of a Mile South of
Skye,
is five Miles in Circumference, full of Bogs, and fitter for Pasturage than Cultivation. On the West-side it is covered with Wood. The Coasts of this Island abound with Cod and Ling.
On the North-side of
Skye
lies SCALPA, five Miles in Circumference: It has Wood in several Parts of it, and is fruitful in Corn and Grass.
A little farther North lies RAARSAY, seven Miles long, and three broad; it has much Wood, and is fitter for Pasture than Cultivation. On the East-side of it is a Spring, which runs down from a Rock, and petrifies into a fine white Lime, of which it yields great Quantities. Here is also a Quarry of good Stone. On the West-side are abundance of Caves, where People lodge who go thither in the Summer upon the Account of Fishing, or Grazing of Cattle. There are several Forts in this Island, some of which are naturally very strong. The Proprietor is a Cadet of the Family of
Macleod,
and is as much respected by the Inhabitants, as if he were a Prince.
A Quarter of a Mile farther North lies RONA, three Miles in Length: 'Tis fruitful in Pasturage, and the Rocks about it are of Hectick Stone.
ALSVIG lies on the South-west Corner of
Skye,
is two Miles in Circumference, fruitful in Corn and Grass, and noted for the vast Shoals of Herrings about it, which sometimes entangle the Fishing-boats.
FLADDA, two Leagues distant, is but two Miles in Compass, but much noted for its Fishing of all Sorts, and for big Whales, which pursue the Fish on the Coast of it. The Sea Fowl called
Coulternebs,
are very numerous here, and a great Flock of Plovers come hither from
Skye,
in the Beginning of
September,
and return again in
April.
There are several Rocks about this Island, particularly one, called
The round Table,
about half a Mile in Circumference, with a fresh-water Spring, which makes an impregnable Fort, there being only one Way to climb up to it, by one Man at a time. The Natives of
Skye,
and the neighbouring Islands have a peculiar way of curing the Distempers which are incident to them, by Simples of their own Product, wherein they are successful to a Miracle: They have also several Medicinal Wells; but I have not room to insist upon these things.
Eighty Miles West from
Skye
lie nine Islands, the chief of which is VATERSA, which beside many other Conveniences, has a large Harbour, capable of the greatest Ships, where at stated times great Numbers of Fishermen meet from the neighbouring Countries.
Two Miles from
Vatersa
lies BARRA, seven Miles long, and three broad, called so from St.
Bar,
the tutelar Saint: It is fruitful in Corn, and noted for its Cod-fishing. The Sea enters this Island at a small Chanel, and afterwards inlarges itself into a round Bay, in which is an Island, with a very strong Castle. It has a good Harbour on the North-east Side, where is Plenty of Fish; and the Rivulets on the East-side abound with Salmon.
About a Quarter of a Mile South from
Barra
lies KISMUL, the Seat of
Macneil
of
Barra,
which is encompassed with a Stone Wall two Stories high; within which there is a Tower, a Hall, a Magazine, and other Houses. They have a Church in this Island, and a Chapel, where the
Macneils
are buried. The Natives are Papists, and generally very ignorant and superstitious.
Here are several other less Islands belonging to
Macneil,
some of them fruitful enough in Corn and Grass, others left for Pasturage, and some of them remarkable for fishing of Ling and Cod. The Inhabitants are very healthful and hospitable: they have abundance of Sea-fowl, and when they kill any of them for Use, they salt them with the Ashes of burnt Sea-ware, which preserves them from Putrefaction.
Macneil
holds his Lands of Sir
Alexander Macdonald
of
Slate,
to whom he pays 40
l. Scots, per Annum,
and a Hawk, if required, and is obliged to furnish him with a certain Number of Men on extraordinary Occasions.
Betwixt
Barra
and
Vist
lie fourteen small Islands, not very considerable.
A little North of
Barra
lies SOUTH-VIST, 21 Miles long, in some Places three, and in others four Miles broad. The East-side is mountainous, but the West plain and arable. The Island abounds with fresh-water Lakes, which have plenty of Fowl and Fish, particularly Trouts and Eels. In several of them are Islands with Forts. There is one Lake three Miles long, into which the Sea has made its way, tho' the People did all they could to hinder it. The Inhabitants are healthy. One Man lately lived 130 Years, and retained his Understanding. The
Irish
Tongue is here spoken in great Perfection. The
Macdonalds,
descended from the antient Kings of these Islands, are Proprietors, and with the Inhabitants profess the Popish Religion. The Soil is generally sandy, but yields a good Produce of Barley, Oats, and Rye. Ambergris is sometimes found upon the Coast.
Betwixt this Island and
North-vist,
two Miles North, lies BENBECULA: The Ground is all plain and sandy betwixt them, except two little Chanels about Knee-deep at a Tide of Ebb; but the Whole is navigable by Boats at a Tide of Flood, and there lie several small Islands on the East of these Chanels.
Benbecula
is three Miles long, and three broad: it has a Bay on the East-side for small Vessels, where Herrings are sometimes taken. The East Part of this Island is arable; it has several fresh-water Lakes well stored with Fish and Fowl, and some small Forts upon the Islands in those Lakes. The Natives are Papists, and the Proprietor is one of the
Macdonalds.
A little North of this Island lies
North-vist,
belonging to Sir
Alexander Macdonald,
nine Miles long, and about thirty in Circumference. It is fitter for Pasturage than Cultivation on the East Part, where it is mountainous; but the West-side is plain and arable, and where it is not ploughed, is covered with Clover, Daisy, and Variety of other Plants, very pleasant to the Sight, and of a very fragrant Smell; and affords good Pasturage. The Grain here is Barley, Oats, and Rye, which yields from ten to thirty-fold; and there is no doubt, but Wheat would grow here very well. This Island has several Bays on the East-side, where Ships may ride; the chief of which are
Loch-eport, Loch-rona,
and
Loch-maddes
; the latter is capable of Hundreds of Vessels of the greatest Size: 400 Vessels have been loaden with Herrings there in a Season. Cod, Ling, and all Sorts of Fish, that frequent the Western Seas, are to be found here. There is a small Island in this Bay, upon which a Magazine was erected for carrying on a Fishery in the Reign of King
Charles
I. There is such a Number of fresh-water Lakes in this Island, as can hardly be believed; they are generally well stored with Trouts and Eels, and, which is more strange, with Cod, Ling, and other Seafish, brought in to them by the Spring-tides. These Lakes have many small Islands, which abound with Variety of Land and Sea Fowl; and some of them have Islands with Forts: It has also several Rivers, which afford Salmon, and some of them speckled, with large Scales. The Inhabitants are Protestants.
There are several other lesser Islands, which lie on both Sides of
North-vist,
the most remarkable of which is EOUSMIL, on the West, a Rock about a Quarter of a Mile in Circumference, noted for its Seal-fishing about the End of
October,
where three hundred and twenty are sometimes taken at once.
Three Leagues and a half farther West lie nine or ten more Rocks, which abound with Sea Fowl, and great Numbers of Seals.
A little farther North lies BORERA, four Miles round; it has a fresh-water Lake well stored with large Eels. This Island affords the largest and best Sort of Dulse. It is possessed by the Family of
Maclean.
Half a League South from this lies LINGAY, which furnishes the neighbouring Islands with Peat for Fewel. It has abundance of Black Cattle, that make excellent Meat; the Natives salt it in the Hides, which, they say, preserves it, and makes it taste better than when salted in Casks. This Island abounds also with Deer, Sea and Land Fowl of all Sorts; among the rest, with Hawks, Eagles, and Swans. The Inhabitants of
South
and
North-vist
are generally well proportioned and healthful, and many of them live to a great Age; they are very hospitable and kind to Strangers.
The Isle of LEWES derives its Name from the
Irish
Word
Leog,
signifying
a Lake,
with which this Island abounds; it is by the Islanders commonly called the
Long Island:
it is near 100 Miles from North to South, and from 13 to 14 in Breadth; it is reckoned part of the Shire of
Ross
; but the Isle of
Lewes,
properly so called, is but 36 Miles in Length, and 10 or 12 broad, belonging to the Earl of
Seaforth.
It reaches from the North of
Bowling-head
to the South of
Hassiness.
The Southern Part is named
Harries.
The Air is temperately cold and moist, and the Natives use commonly a Dose of
Usquebaugh
for a Corrective. The Island is healthful, especially in the Middle, from South and North; it is arable on the West-side for about 16 Miles on the Coast, and is likewise plain and arable in several Places in the East: It is fruitful in Corn, and yields a good Increase; their common Grain is Barley, Oats, and Rye; and they have also Flax and Hemp. There are several convenient Bays and Harbours here, particularly
Lochstornvay,
on the East-side, in the Middle of the Island; the
Birkin Island,
seven Miles Southward;
Locheolmkil,
three Miles farther South;
Lochsefort
and
Lochcarlvay,
24 Miles South-west. This Bay is remarkable for great Numbers of Cod, Ling, and Whales, which frequent it; and all the Bays and Coasts abound with Cod, Ling, Herring, and all other Sorts of Fish taken in the Western Seas, besides Plenty of Shell-fish of all Sorts, in such vast Numbers, that the Inhabitants are not able to consume them. Coral and Pearl-shells are also found in the Bays and Coasts. There are several extraordinary Springs and Fountains in this Island, and abundance of Caves on the Coasts, which Otters, Seals, and Fowl frequent in great Numbers. That Obelisk (if I may call it so) in the Parish of
Barvas
in the Island of
Lewes,
called
The Thrushelstone,
is very remarkable; being not only above 20 Feet high, but likewise almost as much in Breadth, which no other comes near. The
Dun,
or Fortification built on an Eminence in
St. Kilda,
which is an old Fort, is about 18 Leagues distant from
North Vist,
and 20 from the Middle of
Lewes,
or
Harries,
to be seen only in a very fair Day, like a blueish Mist; but a large Fire there would be visible at Night, as the ascending Smoke by Day. In this same Isle (where are many such
Duns
) North of the Village of
Brago,
is a round Fort composed of huge Stones, three Stories high; that is, it has three hollow Passages one over another, within a prodigious thick Wall quite round the Fort, with many Windows and Stairs.
Here also, at the Village of
Classerniss,
is a Druidical Temple extremely remarkable. The Circle consists of 12 Obelisks, about seven Feet high each, and distant from each other six Feet. In the Centre stands a Stone 13 Feet high, in the perfect Shape of the Rudder of a Ship. Directly South from the Circle, stand four Obelisks running out in a Line, another such Line due East, and a third to the West; the Number and Distances of the Stones being in these Wings the same: so that this Temple, the most intire that can be, is at the same time both round and winged. But to the North, reach (by way of Avenue) two strait Ranges of Obelisks, of the same Bigness and Distances with those of the Circle; yet the Ranges themselves are eight Feet distant, each consisting of 19 Stones, the 39th being in the Entrance of the Avenue. This Temple stands astronomically, denoting the 12 Signs of the Zodiack, and the four principal Winds, subdivided each into four others; by which, and the 19 Stones, on each side the Avenue, representing the Cycle of 19 Years, it appears to have been dedicated principally to the Sun, but subordinately to the Seasons, and the Elements; particularly to the Sea, and the Winds, as is manifest by the Rudder in the Middle.
This Island abounds with Cows, Horses, Sheep, Goats and Hogs; the Black Cattle are small, but very prolifick, and make excellent Meat; the Horses are likewise smaller than on the Continent, but as serviceable for all domestick Uses, and live very hard, having little to feed upon in the Spring but Sea-ware. The Inhabitants are well proportioned, and in general healthful and strong, and of a sanguine Complexion; they are very quick of Apprehension, and Lovers of Poesy and Musick: They are dextrous at Swimming, Volting, and Archery, and make stout, able Seamen.
In a little Island near the greater one of
Lewes,
were a couple of Eagles, which would never suffer any other of their Kind to continue in the Place; driving away their own young ones, as soon as they were able to fly. The Natives said, That those Eagles were so careful of their Habitation, that they never killed any Sheep or Lamb in the Island, tho' the Bones of Lambs, Fawns, and Wild-fowl, were frequently found in and about their Nests; so that they made their Purchase in the opposite Islands, the nearest of which is a League distant.
There are many other lesser Islands, which lie round this; the chief of which are, GARVE, in the Mouth of
Lochcarlvay,
a high Rock, half a Mile in Compass, affording good Pasturage, and naturally a strong Fort: the two BERNERA's, one two Miles, and the other four Miles long, and four Miles broad; both fruitful in Corn and Grass.
Near
Carlvay Bay
lie four small Islands, which belong to the Inhabitants of
Lewes,
who go thither every Summer, and bring from thence great Store of Fowls, Eggs, Down, Feathers, and Quills; one of them is called the ISLAND OF PYGMIES, because many little Bones, resembling those of Men, are digged out of the Ground there.
Twenty Leagues from the Point of
Nesse
in
Lewes
lies
Rona,
a Mile long, and half a Mile broad: it has a Hill on the West Part, which makes it visible from
Lewes
in the Summer-time. It was inhabited by about five Families, who had the Island and the Fishery about it divided among them, and were very exact and nice in their Properties; and when their Number increased, the Supernumeraries were sent to their Landlord in
Lewes,
who once a Year sends the Minister of his Parish, and a Servant, to visit them, and bring his Rents, which are paid in Barley-meal sewed up in Skins, Sea Fowl, and some Fish,
&c.
They have a Chapel dedicated to St.
Ronan,
in which they repeat the Lord's Prayer, Creed, and Ten Commandments every
Lord's-day. Buchanan
says, That the Inhabitants were, in his Opinion, the only People in the World, who never wanted any thing, and were satisfied with their Condition, having Plenty of all that they desired; being equally ignorant of Luxury and Avarice, and possessing, thro' their Freedom from Vices, that Innocence and Tranquillity of Mind, which others can scarcely attain unto by great Labour, and with the Help of the best Instructions. Mr.
Martin
affirms, in his
Description of the Western Islands,
That antient Race of poor People was all destroyed about 40 Years ago, in the following manner: First, A Swarm of Rats, none knows how, came into the Island, and eat up all their Corn. In the next Place, some Seamen landed, and robbed them of what Provisions they had left. By this means they all died before the usual Time of the Arrival of the Boat from
Lewes
; upon which another Colony was sent thither.
Four Leagues East from
Rona
lies SOULISKER, a Rock, a Quarter of a Mile in Circumference, which abounds with vast Numbers of Sea Fowl, particularly
Solan
Geese. On this Rock there builds one Fowl not found elsewhere, called
Colk
; it is less than a Goose, and all covered with Down, but of different Colours, which it casts when it hatches; it has a Tuft on its Head resembling that of a Peacock, and a Train longer than that of a House-cock. There were formerly 24 Churches in
Lewes
and
Harries,
and the Islands belonging to them: but, alas! to our Shame may it be said, as Papists were prosecuted or discouraged, Profaneness gained Ground of Superstition, and one sort of Ignorance succeeded another; for few or no Ministers being sent with suitable Provision and Encouragement, Places of religious Worship became ruinous, and the Service of God, and the Edification of the People, very much neglected; so that several Parishes in the
Highlands
and
Isles,
at present, are 20, 30, or near forty Miles long, and very often without any Minister at all.
That Part which is called HARRIES, produces the same Sorts of Corn, but with a greater Increase than
Lewes.
The West-side is for the most part arable on the Coast. It has a noble Harbour called
Scalpa,
a Mile and a half long, and a Mile broad; and there are two other Harbours within three Leagues of it, which abound with Oysters, and other Shellfish. They have excellent Springs here, some of which are Medicinal; one particularly near
Marvag
is excellent for restoring a lost Appetite, and one near
Borve,
good against the Colick and Gravel. There are several Caves on the Mountains, and on each side of the Coast, and in the middle of a high Rock, capable of holding 50 Men; has two Wells, and but a narrow Pass to it by climbing up the Rock; so that in Time of War it is an impregnable Fort. There are likewise several antient Forts in this Island. The Hills and Mountains abound with Deer, which none are allowed to hunt without Leave from
Macleod,
the Proprietor.
Metricks,
a four-footed Creature, about the Size of a large Cat, are pretty numerous here; their Skins are very fine, of a brown Colour, and make good Fur; and 'tis said, the Dung of this Animal yields a Scent like Musk. There are abundance of Otters and Seals here, great Plenty of Land and Sea Fowl, and among others, Eagles, and very good Hawks. The Inhabitants both of
Lewes
and
Harries
are Protestants.
There are other Islands of small Extent belonging to the
Harries,
the chief of which are BERNERA, two Leagues to the South; it is five Miles in Circumference, very fruitful in Barley and Rye, and yields sometimes from 20 to 30 Fold. There are two Chapels in this Island.
Half a League from thence to the Westward lies PABBAY, three Miles in Circumference, and fruitful in Corn and Grass: It has also two Chapels.
Half a League to the North lies SELLAY, a Mile in Circumference; it yields extraordinary Pasture for Sheep, which it fattens very soon, and those bred there have very large Horns.
TARANSAY, a League farther North, is three Miles round, fruitful in Corn and Grass, and yields much yellow Talc.
There are several other Islands in the Neighbourhood, of two or three Miles in Circumference each, all tolerably fruitful in Corn and Pasturage; particularly HERMATRA, where a Magazine for the Fishery was erected in the Reign of King
Charles
I.
Eighteen Leagues West from
North-vist,
and 20 from
Harries,
lies the Island called ST. KILDA, or HIRTA; as
This Hirta
is the most North-west, so
Dow Hirta
is the most South-west of all the
Scots
Islands. The first, properly called
St. Kilda,
is two Miles long and one broad, faced round with a steep Rock, except at the Bay on the South-east, where Vessels enter. The Land rises high in the Middle, and there are several Fountains of good Water on each side the Island. Their Grain is Oats and Barley, the latter accounted the largest in the
Western Isles.
The Inhabitants are about two hundred in Number, very well proportioned and comely. They are Protestants, and very zealous, according to their Knowledge, which is but small for want of Instruction. They are very regular and just in their Conversation, and Strangers to Luxury and Excess, being ignorant of the Use of Money. They have a Chapel, where they assemble on the
Lord's-day,
to hear the Lord's Prayer, Creed, and Ten Commandments; and neither work themselves, nor will allow any Stranger to work, on that Day. It belongs to the Laird of
Macleod,
the Chief of that antient Clan, who commonly makes some Cadet of his Family Steward of this Island, to receive his Rents, which are paid in Fish, Fowl, Feathers, Wool, Butter, Cheese, Cattle, and Corn: and the Steward's Deputy is, in his Absence, the chief Man of the Island; and generally, except when a Minister is sent thither from
Harries,
baptizes and marries. They have an Altar and Crucifix in their Chapel, which have continued there since the Time of Popery; and tho' they pay no Worship to the Crucifix, yet they swear decisive Oaths, by laying their Hands upon it, and take the Marriage Oath in the same manner. Not long ago an illiterate Fellow, one of the Natives, imposed upon their Ignorance, by pretending that St.
John the Baptist,
and the Virgin
Mary,
had appeared to him, and taught him Sermons, Prayers, and Hymns: the latter, he alledged, were effectual to secure Women against Miscarriage; and his Price for teaching them was a Sheep. He told them of a little Hill, where St.
John
and the Virgin appeared to him: And made them believe, that if any of their Black Cattle or Sheep came near to taste the Grass of that Hill, they must immediately be killed and eaten; and it was necessary, that he himself should always partake of the Treat. He was discovered at last by his lewd Attempts upon several Women; and being, by
Macleod
's Order, transported from thence to
Harries,
he made publick Confession of his Imposture in several Churches, and seemed to be very penitent, but was not allowed to return any more. Their Houses are low, built of Stone, and a Cement of dry Earth, and covered with Turf, thatched over with Straw. They make their Beds in the Walls of their Houses, and lie commonly on Straw, tho' they have great Plenty of Feathers and Down. They live all together in a little Village, on the East-side of the Island, in good Harmony; are very exact and nice in their several Properties, and allow no Encroachment upon one another, nor will they admit of it from their Landlord, or his Steward, but pay exactly what they agree on. The Island is naturally strong, and, with a little Art, might be made impregnable. There is an old Fort at the South-end of the Bay.
In the Island of
St. Kilda
is the House of a Druidess, built all of Stone, without Lime, or Morter, or Earth to cement it; it is also arched, and of a conick Figure, but open at the Top, and a Fireplace in the Middle of the Floor. It cannot contain above nine Persons, to sit easy by each other. From the Side of the Wall go off three low Vaults, separated from each other by Pillars, and capable of containing five Persons apiece.
Just such another House in all respects, but much larger, and grown over with a green Sod on the Outside, is in
Borera,
an Isle adjacent to
St. Kilda,
which was the Habitation of a Druid.
At the North-end of
St. Kilda,
were a couple of Eagles, who drove away all others of the same Kind, even their own Progeny; and brought their Prey from other Parts, without plundering the Place of their own Residence.
They have two other Islands which belong to them, one called SOA, about half a Mile from the Westside of
St. Kilda,
a Mile in Circumference, and very high and steep all round.
The other is called BORERA, lies about two Leagues North of
St. Kilda,
is about a Mile in Circumference, and most of it surrounded with a high Rock. All three afford good Pasturage, and abound with prodigious Numbers of Sea Fowl from
March
till
September.
They have
Solan
Geese in such Numbers, that they keep about 20,000 annually in little Stone Houses, built on purpose for them, and for preserving their other Fowl, Eggs,
&c.
The latter they preserve some Months in the Ashes of Peat, and they preserve their Fowl without Salt: They eat the
Solan
Geese Eggs raw, and say they are good Pectorals. They have another Bird here, called
Fulmar,
about the Size of a Moor-hen: it picks its Food out of live Whales, and other Fishes. When any one approaches them, they spout out pure Oil from their Bills, which the Natives have a way to catch, when they surprise the Fowl; and make use of it for their Lamps, and likewise as a Remedy against Rheumatick Pains, Aches, and other Distempers. It serves them also for Vomits and Purges, for Swellings or Strains, and discussing of Tumours; in all which Cases, they say, it is very successful. Both Sexes have a Genius for Poesy, are very hospitable to Strangers, and charitable to their own Poor, for whose Maintenance they all contribute in Proportion. They have but one Boat belonging to the Island, in which every Man has a Share proportionable to the Rent he pays. The Men are generally strong, are stout Rowers, and will tug a long time at the Oar without Intermission. They use no Compass, but take their Measure from the Sun, Moon, or Stars, and chiefly from the Courses of the Flocks of the Sea Fowl, because they know very well to what Rocks or Islands they resort. They are excellent at climbing of Rocks, being accustomed to it from their Infancy, in order to catch the Fowl which build on them. They have two Ropes, which belong to them in common for climbing the Rocks; they are 24 Fathoms in Length each, and covered with Cows Hides salted, to prevent their being cut by the Rocks. The Men climb by turns, and bring home some Thousands of Eggs and Fowls at a time. They also make Gins of Horse-hair, for catching the Fowl; yet sometimes they lose their Lives by climbing. The richest Man in the Isle has not above eight Cows, eighty Sheep, and two or three Horses. They have no Money, but barter with one another for what they want.
Mr.
Martin,
to whom I am obliged for most of these Particulars relating to the Islands, (for it cannot be supposed I could think of entering every one of them in Person) gives an Account of that called the SECOND SIGHT, which, he says, is a Representation, by way of Vision, of something to come, and makes such a strong Impression upon the Seers, that they cannot see or think of any thing else while the Vision lasts; and they appear chearful, or otherwise, according to the Nature of the Object represented; they use no previous Means to attain it, and to most of them 'tis very troublesome. The Instances of the Truth of this
Second Sight,
as 'tis called, are so many, and so frequent, that it can scarcely be disputed. 'Tis certainly a strange Illusion; but I shall not venture to give my Opinion about it; only observing, with others, that this Faculty decays in Proportion as Christianity increases among them, and as they improve in Knowledge. Some of the People, to whom those Visions have been frequent, have learned by Experience, as we were told, to determine the Time when the Things represented shall come to pass. The Reverend Mr.
John Frazer,
the late Dean of the
Isles,
has writ a small Treatise upon this Subject, called
.
We shall conclude our Description of these Islands with an Extract from Mr.
Toland
's Specimen of his
History of the Druids
; where he treats in general of the Properties of all these Isles, whither, it seems, he had intended to have travelled, in order to perfect his History, and rescue many valuable Pieces of Antiquity from utter Oblivion.
'Tis certain, says that Gentleman, no Country abounds more with the Necessaries of Life, and at less Labour or Charge, than the
Hebrides.
In the first place, there is known to be, in those Islands, a prodigious Plenty of Flesh and Fish. Their Cattle of all Sorts (as Cows, Sheep, Goats, and Hogs) are exceeding numerous and prolifick; small indeed of Size, as are likewise their Horses, but of a sweet and delicious Taste. So are their Deer, which freely range in Herds on the Mountains. No Place can compare with this for tame and wild Fowl, there being of the latter no-where in the World a greater Diversity, many Sorts of them extremely beautiful, and rare, or utterly unknown, elsewhere. The like may be said of their various amphibious Animals. Numberless are their Fountains and Springs, Rivulets, Rivers and Lakes, very wholsome in their Waters, and every-where superabounding with Fish, especially the most delicate, as Trout and Salmon: nor is it by Herrings alone that all
Europe
knows no Seas to be better stored, nor with more Kinds, from the Shrimp to the Whale; as no Harbours or Bays are superior, whether regard be had to Number or Commodiousness. Add to this their Variety of excellent Roots and Plants, particularly those of marine Growth, every one of them serving for Food or Physick. Their Pastures are so kindly, that they might live on Milk alone, with that inconceivable Quantity of Eggs they yearly gather off the desert Rocks and Islets. Bread is plentiful enough. The Ground is generally allow'd to be much richer, than on the
Scotish
Continent, some Parts whereof are not seldom supply'd hence with Corn.
Lewes
is very fruitful; and tho' Barley, Oats, and Rye, be the only Grain sown there at present, yet the Ground both in that, and most of the other Islands, is fit to bear Wheat, and consequently Legumes of all sorts. 'Tis truly amazing they have any Crop at all, considering how unskilful they are in Agriculture, how destitute of the properest Instruments to till the Ground, and that they scarce use any other Manure but Sea-wreck or Tangles. From the Ignorance of the Inhabitants in these respects, as also in planting, inclosing and draining, many fruitful Spots lie uncultivated; but they are abundantly supply'd with choice Eatables, and the most nourishing Shell-fish.
In
Bernera,
near
Harries,
the Produce of Barley is many times from 20 to 30 fold. In
Harries
and
South-vist
one Barley-grain sometimes produces from 7 to 14 Ears, as in
North-vist
from 10 to 30 fold in a plentiful Year. At
Corchattan
in
Skye
the Increase amounted once to 35. If the Ground be laid down for some time, it gives a good Crop without Dunging, some Fields not having been dung'd in 40 Years. A small Tract of Ground, at
Skerry-breek,
in the said Isle of
Skye,
had yielded 100 fold. With regard to their Pastures, nothing is more common than for an Ewe to have two Lambs at a time. Besides the ordinary Rent a Tenant paid, it was a Custom in the Islands, if any of his Cows or Sheep brought two young ones at a time, one of them was to go to the Landlord; who, on his part, was obliged, if any of his Tenants Wives bore Twins, to take one of them into his own Family. Even the wild Goats on the Mountains (for such there are in
Harries
) are observed to bring forth their Young twice a Year. From hence 'tis evident, that those Islands are capable of great Improvement, as they abound likewise in many Curiosities, especially in Subjects of Philosophical Observation. Nor is it less plain by the many antient Monuments remaining among them, and the Marks of the Plough reaching to the very Tops of the Mountains, (which the artless Inhabitants think incapable of Culture) that in remote Ages they were in a far more flourishing Condition than at present. The Ruins of spacious Houses, and the numerous Obelisks, old Forts, Temples, Altars,
&c.
undeniably prove this; besides that the Country was formerly full of Woods, as appears by the great Oak and Firr-trees daily dug out of the Ground, and by many other Tokens, there being several Woods and Coppices still remaining in
Skye, Mull,
and other Places. The Inhabitants are not to be mended in the Proportion of their Persons; no preposterous Bandages distorting them in the Cradle, nor hindering Nature from duly forming their Limbs; which is the Reason, that bodily Imperfections of any sort are very rare among them. Neither does any over-officiously preventive Physick, in their Infancy, spoil their original Constitution; whence they have so strong a Habit of Body, that one of them requires treble the Dose, as will purge any Man in the South of
Scotland.
But what contributes above all things to their Health and Longevity, is constant Temperance and Exercise. Their Food is commonly fresh, and their Meals two a Day, Water being the ordinary Drink of the Vulgar. They cure all Disorders of the Body by Simples of their own Growth, and by proper Diet or Labour. Hence they are stout and active, dextrous in all their Exercises; as they are withal remarkably sagacious, cholerick, but easily appeased, sociable, good-natured, ever-chearful, and having a strong Inclination to Musick. They are hospitable beyond Expression, entertaining all Strangers, of what Condition soever,
gratis
; the Use of Money being still in some of those Islands unknown, and, till a few Ages past, in all of them. They have no Lawyers or Attorneys. The Men and Women plead their own Causes; and a very speedy Decision is made by the Proprietor, who is perpetual President in their Courts, or by his Bailiff, as his Substitute.
The present (says Mr.
Toland
) is the 35th Lord of
Barra
by uninterrupted lineal Descent, a thing whereof no Prince in the World can boast; and he is regarded as no mean Potentate by his Subjects, who know none greater than he. When the Wife of any of them dies, he has immediate recourse to his Lord, representing first his own Loss in the Want of a Female Companion; and next, that of
Macneil,
his Lord, himself, if he should not go on to beget Followers for him. Hereupon
Macneil
finds out a suitable Match (neither Side ever disliking his Choice, but accepting it as the highest Favour); and the Marriage is celebrated without any Courtship, Portion or Dowry: but they never fail to make merry on such Occasions, with a Bottle or more of Usquebaugh. On the other hand, when any Woman becomes a Widow, she is, upon the like Application, soon provided with an Husband, and with as little Ceremony.
Macneil
also supplies any of his Tenants with as many Milch-cows, as he may chance to lose by the Severity of the Weather; or by other Misfortunes. He takes likewise into his own Family, and maintains to the Day of their Death, as many old Men, as thro' Age or Infirmity become unfit for Labour, an House being built hard-by on Purpose for them.
Of the Northern Isles of
Scotland.
WE come now to the Isles of
Orkney
and
Shetland.
The
Orkneys,
called by the
Latins Orcades,
have the
Caledonian
Ocean on the West, the
German
Ocean on the East, the Sea that divides them from
Shetland,
on the North, and
Pentland
Firth, 24 Miles long, and 12 Miles broad, which divides them from the main Land of
Scotland,
on the South. Antient Authors differ about their Number.
Pliny
reckoned them Forty,
Orosius
Thirty-three; but it appears by later Discoveries, that they are only Twenty-eight. They lie in Longitude 22 Deg. 11 Min. Latitude 59 Deg. 2 Min. The longest Day is 18 Hours and some odd Minutes: The Winters, as in most small Islands, and indeed always near the Sea, are generally more subject to Rain than Snow. The Frost and Snow do not continue long, but the Wind is very boisterous; and it rains sometimes not by Drops, but by violent Spouts of Water.
STROMA lies so near the Coast of
Caithness,
that it was always possessed by the Earls of that County, and therefore not reckoned among the
Orcades.
This is a small Island, but not unfruitful. Authors are not agreed as to the Reason of giving the Name of
Pentland Firth
to that Streight, in Breadth about 12 Miles, which lies between the
Orcades
and the main Land; some say, it is a Corruption of the Word
Pictland Firth,
which was so called, because the
Picts
formerly inhabited those Islands, and part of the neighbouring Continent, and that many of them perished here, when repulsed by the antient Inhabitants of
Orkney.
Others think
Pentland Firth
the proper Name, and it was so denominated from the Highlands or Hills in the North of
Scotland,
by which it is bounded on one Side, for the same Reason that the high Hills, which take their Rise some Miles South-west of
Edinburgh,
are called
Pentland Hills.
This Firth is remarkable for its swift, violent, and contrary Tides, occasioned by the Multitude of the Isles, and the Narrowness of the Passage, which makes it very dangerous, especially to Strangers; and, which is remarkable, the Whirlpools, with which this Firth abounds, occasioned, as is thought, by some
Hiatus's
in the Earth below, are most dangerous in a Calm, and whirl the Boats or Ships round, till they swallow them up; but if there be any Wind, and the Boat under Sail, they are passed without Danger. The Mariners, who use to carry Passengers between the main Land and the Isles, if at any time they are driven near those Whirlpools by the Tide, throw a Barrel, Oar, Bundle of Straw, or any other bulky Thing that comes to hand, into the Whirlpools, which make them smooth enough till the Vessel pass over them; and what is thus cast in, is generally found floating again a Mile or two distant. The different Tides in this Firth are reckoned twenty-four, and run with such impetuous Force, that no Ship under Sail, with the fairest Wind, is able to make way against them; yet the Natives on both Sides, who know the proper Seasons, pass this Firth every Day safely, except when the Weather is tempestuous.
The first of the
Orkney
Islands is SOUTH RONALSA, six Miles long and five broad, fruitful in Corn, and well inhabited; it has a safe Harbour on the North-side, but the South-east has the dangerous Rocks called
Pentland Skerries
; it abounds with Cattle, and has two united Parish Churches, whereof the Dean was Minister.
A little to the South-west lies SWINNA, a small Island, fruitful in Corn, capable of maintaining a few Husbandmen, and their Families; has a good Fishing on its Coasts, and is noted for a good Slate Quarry. The Whirlpools near this Island are called the
Wells of Swinna.
Beyond
Swinna
lie WAYES and HOY, which are but one Isle, 12 Miles long, and full of high Mountains: that Part called
Wayes
is fruitful, and very well inhabited. This Island has several good Harbours, particularly that called
North Hope,
one of the best in the World, and properest for those who design a Fishing-trade. That Part called
Hoy,
from which it is only separated by a Spring-tide, has the highest Mountains in
Orkney,
and the deepest Valleys, which strike a Terror into Strangers, who have Occasion to travel that Way. On these Mountains there are many Sheep, which run wild, and are scarcely to be caught by any Art. On
Rorahead,
a high and rugged Promontory in this Island, an extraordinary Fowl, which the Inhabitants call
Lyer,
builds its Nest; it is about the Size of a Duck, and so fat, that it seems to be nothing else; the Inhabitants admire it much, and venture their Lives to climb for it by Ropes,
&c.
It is reckoned delicious Food, eaten with Vinegar and Pepper. On a barren Heath in this Island lies an oblong Stone, in a Valley between two moderate Hills, called, by way of Contraries,
The dwarfy Stone.
It is 36 Feet long, 18 Feet broad, and 9 Feet high. No other Stones are near it. 'Tis all hollow'd within, having a Door on the East-side two Feet square, with a Stone of the same Dimension lying about two Feet from it, which was intended, no doubt, to close this Entrance. Within there is cut out, at the South-end of it, the Form of a Bed and Pillow, capable of holding two Persons; as at the North-end is another Bed, both very neatly done. Above, at an equal Distance from both, is a large round Hole, which is supposed not only to have been designed for letting in Light and Air when the Door was shut; but likewise for letting out Smoke from the Fire, for which there is a Place made in the Middle between the two Beds. The Marks of the Workman's Tool appear every-where; and the Tradition of the Vulgar is, that a Giant and his Wife had this Stone for their Habitation; tho' the Door alone destroys this Fancy, which is wholly groundless every way besides. Just by it is a clear and pleasant Spring, for the Use of the Inhabitant.
From the Top of these Hills the Sun is to be seen all Night about the Summer Solstice. On the North Part of this Island are a Church, a Gentleman's Seat, and several Farm-houses, as also divers Lakes, which abound with Fish, especially Trouts.
Three Miles from
South Ronalsay
lies BURRA, three Miles long, and one broad, fruitful in Corn and Pasturage, and affords excellent Fewel.
Stewart
of
Mains
built a noble and sumptuous Stone House here. This Isle abounds with Rabbets, and has a Chapel, but belongs to the Parish of
South Ronalsay.
West from this lies FLOTTA, 5 Miles long, and 3 and a half broad, most of it encompassed with high Rocks; it has a Church and a Gentleman's Seat, and abounds with excellent Land-fowl in its Heaths; but has little Corn-ground, and not many Inhabitants.
Near this lie FAIRA, CAVA, and GRANSEY, fruitful and pleasant, tho' small Islands.
We pass by several
Holms,
as they call them, which are left for Pasturage; and come to POMONA, the largest of the
Orkney
Islands, and for that Reason called
The Main-land
; it is 24 Miles long; in some Places nine, and in others six Miles broad; it is very fruitful, and well inhabited; tho' there are no Trees in all these Islands, but what grow in the Bishop's Gardens at
Kirkwall,
in this Island, the only Town in
Orkney,
a Royal Borough, long possessed by the
Norwegians,
pleasantly situated upon a Bay, near the Middle of it; it is about a Mile in Length, and is the Seat of Justice, where the Sheriffs,
&c.
keep their Courts. It consists of one Street, which is narrow; but the Houses are well built, and most of them covered with Slate. The Crown had formerly a very strong Castle here, which is now in Ruins. Near the Castle stands a stately House, formerly the Bishop's Seat; and near to that a Palace, which was begun by
Patrick Stewart,
Earl of
Orkney,
in the Year 1574. but not finished, because of his untimely Death: Several Rooms of it have been curiously painted with Scripture Stories. At the North-end of the Town is a Fort built by the
English,
during
Oliver Cromwell
's Administration, ditch'd about with a Breastwerk, and other Fortifications, on which they have some Canon planted, for the Defence of the Harbour. There is a stately Cathedral Church here, called by the Name of
St. Magnus,
who, the Natives say, was their first Apostle: it is very magnificent for this Part of the World, and built of hewn Stone, excellently polished; it has fourteen Pillars on each Side, and a Steeple erected on four larger Pillars in the Middle, with fine Bells in it: there are so many Turnings, that it is hard for a Stranger to find the same Way out or in. Here is a publick Grammar-school; they have a Charter for two weekly Markets, and an annual Fair, which holds three Days. The Town is governed by a Provost, four Bailiffs, and a Common-council. This Island has nine Parish-churches, many Promontories and Bays, and several Mines of good white and black Lead; it has also several Gentlemens Seats, and divers Lakes and Rivulets, which abound with Salmon and other Fish. It has four very good Harbours;
viz.
one at
Kirkwall,
both large and safe; another at
Deersound,
very large, with good Anchorage, and capable of receiving the greatest Fleets; the third is at
Graham
's
Hall
; and the fourth at
Kerston,
which is very commodious and well fenced against all Winds. In this Island are two Temples, where the Natives believe by Tradition, that the Sun and Moon were worshipped; which Belief of theirs is very right, since the lesser Temple is semicircular. The greater is 110 Paces diameter. There are two green Mounts erected at the East and West-end of it; and round each of the Temples a Trench or Ditch is drawn, like that about
Stone-kenge.
Many of the Stones are about 20 or 24 Feet in Height above the Ground, about five in Breadth, and a Foot or two in Thickness. Some of them are fallen down; and the Temples are one on the East, and the other on the West-side of the Lake of
Stennis,
where it is shallow and fordable, there being a Passage over by large stepping Stones. Near the smaller Temple (which is on the East-side of the Lake, as the greater on the West) stand two Stones of the same Bigness with the rest; thro' the Middle of one of which runs a large Hole, by which Criminals and Victims were tyed.
East from
The Main-land
lies COPPINSHA, a small Island, but fruitful in Corn and Grass, has good Fishing, and abounds with Fowl; it is very conspicuous to Seamen, as is the Holm to the North-east of it, called
The Horse of Coppinsha.
North from
The Main-land
lies SHAPINSHA, five or six Miles long, and three broad; it has a very safe Harbour, and a Parish-church.
To the South-east lies STRONSA, six Miles long, and three broad, well known, because of its good Harbours, to those who frequent this Country and
Shetland
for Fishing: it is very fruitful, and well inhabited, and has a Rock belonging to it called
Outkerrie,
remarkable for its good Fishery.
A little North of it lies a little pleasant Isle, called PAPA STRONSA, very fruitful, and well inhabited.
Farther North lies SANDA, about 12 Miles long, and eight Miles broad, well inhabited, and has two Harbours; it abounds with Cattle, Hay, and Fish; but the Inhabitants are obliged to bring their Fewel from EDA, which lies East of it: It is ten Miles long, and in some Places five Miles broad; there is good Salt made here, and it abounds with Fish and Fowl, but not with Corn and Grass.
Three Miles West from
Kirkwall
lies DAMSEY, a small, but fruitful Island, and abounds with Fish.
To the North-west lies ROUSA, eight Miles long, and six broad; it has many Promontories, and high Hills; but on the Coast is fruitful, and well inhabited; it abounds also with Fowl, Fish, and Rabbets.
There are several other Islands in the Neighbourhood, which are fruitful enough for their Extent.
Eight Miles North from
Kirkwall
lies EGLISHA, three Miles long, and two broad; it has a safe Road for Ships, is very pleasant and fruitful, and has a Parish-church.
Five Miles North-east lies NORTH-FARA, three Miles long; it is but thinly inhabited, but affords the common Commodities of the Country.
SOUTH-FARA, which lies near
Burra,
is much of the same Extent and Nature.
North from
Eglisha
lies WESTRA, eight Miles long, in some Places five, and in others three Miles broad; it is well inhabited, abounds with Corn, Cattle, Fish and Rabbets, has a strong Castle, with a convenient Harbour.
Two Miles North-east lies PAPA-WESTRA, three Miles long, a Mile and a half broad, is well inhabited, has a good Harbour, and together with the other
Westra,
makes up a Parish. In this Island stand, near a Lake, (now called
St. Tredwell's Loch
) two Obelisks, in one of which is a Hole used by the Heathens for the Tying of Criminals and Victims; and behind them, lying on the Ground, a third Stone, hollowed like a Trough.
The People of the
Orcades
are generally healthful, stout, and well proportioned; they are more numerous than can reasonably be imagined.
Bleau,
in his
Atlas,
says, they mustered 10000 Men at once, near
Kirkwall,
fit to carry Arms, besides those that were left to cultivate the Ground. The Commodities which they export yearly, are Butter, Tallow, Hides, Barley, Malt, Oatmeal, Fish, salted Beef, Pork, Rabbet-skins, Otter-skins, white Salt, Stuffs, Stockens, Wool, Hams, Quills, Down, Feathers,
&c. Molucca
Beans, figured Stones, and peculiar Sorts of Fish and Fowls are found here. The
Claik
Geese, or
Barnacles,
which are reckoned to breed in the Trunks of Trees, or in the Timber of old Ships, and have been so frequently seen about these and the neighbouring Islands, have occasioned abundance of Wrangling among the Learned. Some of them have denied the Matter of Fact, and boldly asserted, there could be no such thing in Nature, as that Birds should proceed from Trees; others, who could not resist the Evidence of so many Persons of Credit, who had seen and attested the hanging of Birds of that sort to the Trunks of Trees,
&c.
have had recourse to such strange Philosophical Notions for explaining this Phaenomenon, as still made the thing more ridiculous and incredible. But there are two ways to solve this Difficulty, found out by modern Authors, both of which seem very probable: The first is the
Concha Anatifera,
mentioned by Sir
Robert Sibbald,
in his
Natural History of
Scotland,
Book
III.
Part
ii.
Cap.
12. wherein he says, that those Shells stick to Sea-ware, or Logs of Fir, and suck Nourishment from them; that the Animal contained in those Shells, is a Fish, but unshapely, and sends out such a Multitude of Feet, as resemble Hair, which the unwary Observer takes for Feathers; and of this Animal Sir
Robert
has given us a Cut in the End of his Book. Dr.
Wallis,
in his Description of
Orkney,
has done the like, and tells us, he has seen some Thousands of those
Conchae,
sticking to Logs of Wood driven ashore in that Country. But the Solution given by a late Author, in his
Curiosities of Nature and Art in Husbandry and Gardening,
lately printed at
London,
p. 311. seems still to be more plain, if the Fact be true,
viz.
That the
Barnacles
lay their Eggs as Fish do theirs, and leave them at the Mercy of the Waves; and that as they float, they stick to what they meet, especially rotten Wood, Sea-ware, and other maritime Plants, upon which we may observe a glutinous Substance; and that they are hatched there by the Heat of the Sun.
The People of the
Orcades,
generally speaking, are very civil and industrious, hospitable, sober, and religiously disposed. Tho' the Air be sharp and cold, yet it may be called temperate. They are generally long-lived, the Women handsome, bearing Children sometimes at sixty Years. They are seldom afflicted with Fevers, Stone, or Gout; but are often liable to the Scurvy, Agues, and Consumptions. They generally speak the
English
Tongue after the
Scots
way; but many antient People of the poorer Sort, speak the
Norn,
or
Norway,
or old
Danish
Tongue, which has been continued from the first Planters of these Islands. They have plenty of Black Cattle, Sheep, Swine, Rabbets, Geese, and several sorts of Fish. They export great Quantities of Oil, Butter, and salt Flesh, which turn to good Account. Their Corn-land is every-where inclosed; and without these Inclosures their Sheep and Swine, and most of their Cattle, go loose, without an Herdsman.
They formerly had their own Kings, after the Manner of the
Picts,
who were harassed by the
Romans
; but by the Injury of Time, or Negligence of Writers, only two are come to the Knowledge of Posterity,
viz. Bladus,
or
Balus,
and
Ganus,
who was cotemporary with
Caractacus,
the 18th King of
Scotland,
in the first Century.
These Isles, 'tis likely, were under their own Princes, (of the
Pictish
Blood) till they were subdued by King
Kenneth Macalpin,
about the Year 840. But
Anno
1099.
Donald Bane
having assigned them to the King of
Norway,
for assisting him in his Usurpation, the
Norwegians
invaded them; and were Masters for about 164 Years, when
Magnus,
King of
Norway,
sold all again to
Alexander,
King of
Scotland,
who gave the Property hereof to a Nobleman, surnamed
Speire,
an Heiress of whose Family brought it to the
Sinclairs,
or
St. Clares,
one of whom carried the Title of Prince of
Orkney,
Duke of
Old
nburgh, &c.
and married a Daughter of the King of
Denmark
's. But one of his Successors having forfeited, the Title and Estate fell to the Crown; tho', in Truth, the
Scots
reap'd but little Profit by them, being often disturbed by the Kings of
Denmark
and
Norway,
who claimed the Sovereignty; and, in some measure, continued possessed of it, till the Marriage of King
James
III. with a Daughter of
Denmark,
when they were first mortgaged for a great Sum, due then by the Contract; and thereafter, upon her bringing forth a Son (afterwards King
James
IV.) the intire Right to them was surrendered to King
James
III. which was farther confirmed to King
James
VI. upon his marrying
Anne
his Queen, the King of
Denmark
's Daughter. The Earldom of
Orkney,
and Lordship of
Zetland,
continued in the Crown, till Queen
Mary,
being to marry
James Hepburn,
Earl of
Bothwell,
by fatal Advice of her Privy Council, advanced him to the Dignity of Duke of
Orkney.
After his Death, King
James
VI. created a natural Son of King
James
V. Earl; which failing in his Son, it returned to the Crown: and,
Anno
1647.
William Dowglass,
Earl of
Morton,
having advanced, as he said, great Sums to King
Charles
I. procured this Country in Mortgage for his Money; but it was redeemed, and, by Act of Parliament, all re-annexed to the Crown,
Anno
1669. excepting what belonged to the Bishop; which Act suppressed the Office of
Sheriff,
and erected one with a different Name,
viz.
to be called,
The Stewartry of
Orkney
and
Zetland. But the said Country, by the Union-Parliament, was dissolved from the Crown, and her late Majesty thereupon granted the same to the then Earl of
Morton,
for Payment of the yearly Sum of 500
l.
and appointed him Steward and Justicier within the Bounds thereof. Under the Stewards are some Judges of his Creation and Appointment, called
Bailiffs:
In every Parish and Isle there is one. Their Office is to oversee the Manners of the Inhabitants, to hold Courts, and to determine in Civil Matters, to the Value of 10
l. Scots
(16
s.
8
d. English
); but if the Matter be above, it is referred to the Steward, or his Deputy. Under and subservient to those Bailiffs, are six or seven of the most honest and intelligent Persons within the Parish, called
Lawrightmen.
These, in their respective Bounds, have the Oversight of the People, in manner of Constables, and inform the Bailiff of such Enormities as occasionally happen, which the latter punishes according to the Importance and Circumstances of the Fault; and if it be above his Limits, or the Extent of his Power, he sends the Delinquent to the Seat of
Justice,
which is held, as we hinted, at
Kirkwall,
by the Steward, or his Deputy. These
Lawrightmen
have a Privilege inherent to their Office, by the Custom of the Country, which is not usual elsewhere; and this is, if there be any Suspicion of Theft, they take some of their Neighbours with them, during the Silence of the Night, and make Search for the Theft, which is called
Ransacking,
from
Ransaka,
which is to make Inquiry, in the antient
Danish:
they search every House they come to, and seizing him upon whom the Theft is found, bring him to the Seat of
Justice.
The Christian Religion was not only preached, but planted very early in these Isles: for we find
Servanus
(or St.
Serf
) was their Bishop, and Preceptor to the famous
Kentigern,
(whom, in a familiar way, he called
Mongah,
or
Mungo,
in his vulgar Tongue) who founded the Bishoprick of
St. Asaph
in
Wales
about the Year 560. and who had been also Bishop of
Glasgow.
And,
Anno
1071. the People of
Orkney
sent one of their Clergy to
York,
with Letters, desiring that Archbishop (who was then, in
Fact,
possessed of a Jurisdiction over the Church of
Scotland
) to consecrate him to be their Bishop. The last
Popish
Bishop was
Adam Hepburn,
who conformed to the Reformation, and lived many Years after it. He was an eminent Man in his Time, a Lord of Council and Session; he crowned King
James
VI. was Father to the Lord
Holy-rood-house,
where he was Abbot, and where his Tomb remains to this Day. The brave Lieutenant General
George Hamilton,
Field Marshal of
Great Britain,
lately deceased, was Earl of
Orkney.
Eighty Miles farther North lie the Isles of SHETLAND; betwixt them lies the FAIR ISLE, which rises up in three high Promontories, and is seen both in
Orkney
and
Shetland.
They lie in 61 and 62 Degrees of North Latitude, and have
Norway
on the East, which is the nearest Part of the Continent of
Europe.
There are in all Forty-six Islands, Forty Holms, or lesser Isles, left for Pasturage, and Thirty Rocks frequented only by Fowl.
The first of these Islands, called THE MAINLAND, is 60 Miles long, and, in some Places, 16 broad: it runs into the Sea with abundance of Promontories: it is best inhabited, and cultivated, on the Shore; but the inner Part is mountainous, and full of Lakes or Bogs, which makes travelling there to Strangers dangerous. The Air is cool and piercing; yet many of the Inhabitants live to a great Age. About the Summer Solstice they have so much Light all Night, that they can see to read by it. The Sun sets between Ten and Eleven at Night, and rises between One and Two in the Morning; and, on the other hand, the Day is so much shorter, and the Night longer in the Winter; which, with the Violence of the Tides, and the Tempestuousness of the Seas, deprives them of all foreign Correspondence from
October
to
April,
during which Time they know nothing of what passes in the other Parts of the World. A known Instance of this was, that tho' the Revolution happened to begin in
November,
they knew nothing of it till the
May
following, when a Fisherman, who arrived there, told them of it; and then they imprisoned him, in order to try him for spreading such News.
They are much subject to the Scurvy, by eating too much Fish; but Nature has furnished them with great Quantities of Scurvygrass for an Antidote. They have little Corn of their own Growth, and therefore import great Quantities from
Orkney.
Their common Drink is Whey, which they barrel up, and keep in cold Cellars; this makes it very strong, so that it quickly turns their Heads. Some of them keep for their Drink Butter-milk mixed with Water, and this they call
Bland.
The better Sort have good Beer and Ale, of which they are very liberal to Strangers. They have abundance of the Fish of all Sorts on their Coasts for most Part of the Year: those that abound most are Cod, Ling, and Herring. They have also Shell-fish of all Sorts, with Whales, Seals, Sea-calves, and Otters; and in the Winter-time they burn Oil of Fish instead of Candle. They abound with all Sorts of Fowl, except Heath-cocks; and other Fowls which frequent Heaths, will not live there when brought thither, tho' they have abundance of Heath. They have Store of Geese, and many Sorts of Ducks. They have Plenty of little Horses, which they call
Schelties,
very fit for the Husbandman's Use, and pace naturally. They make coarse Cloth, Stockens, and knit Gloves for their own Use, and also for Sale to the
Norwegians.
Their Grain is Oats and Big, but most of the latter. They have abundance of Black Cattle and Sheep. Their Ewes are very prolifick, and for the most part bring forth two, and sometimes three Lambs at once. Their Fewel is Turf, Peat, and Heath. Their chief Trade of Export consists in Fish, by the Produce of which they pay their Rent, and purchase Necessaries. Their native Language is old
Gothick,
or
German,
as was also that of
Orkney
; but they generally now speak
English.
In their Customs and Habit they much resemble the
Germans,
but the better Sort imitate the
Scots Lowlanders.
Their Religion is Protestant, and they are generally, as well as the
Orkney-men,
very devout. There were few or no Presbyterians in these Parts before the Year 1700. when new Missionaries came, and ejected the old Clergy; yet the People did not care to hear them, so long as they had any body else. They make use of no Physicians; and if at any time they receive Wounds, they cure themselves. There are two little Towns in this Island; the first and oldest is
Scalloway,
on the West-side of the Island, where there is a Castle four Stories high: the Inhabitants are about an hundred in Number. The second and largest is
Lerwick,
which by their Fishing-trade is increased now to about three hundred Families.
There are several antient Monuments in these Islands, and particularly those called
Picts Houses,
which we have not room to insist upon.
The
Dutch, Hamburghers,
&c. come hither to fish in
June,
and go away again in
August
and
September
; and sometimes there are two thousand Busses fishing in
Brassa
's Sound at once.
The most remarkable of the other Islands here, are, ZEAL, commonly called YELL, eighteen Miles long, and nine broad: it has three Churches, and several Chapels. And,
Farther North lies VUIST, much of the same Dimensions, plain, pleasant to the Eye, fruitful, and well inhabited. It is the pleasantest of the
Shetland
Isles, has three Churches, and as many Harbours. The Inhabitants say, no Cats will live in it.
TRONDA lies over-against
Scalloway
; it is three Miles long, and two broad.
A little North-east lies WALSEY, three Miles long, and as many broad.
On the East of
Brassa
's Sound lies GREAT RULE, eight Miles long, and two broad: it has a good Harbour.
Six Leagues West from
The Main-land
lies FOULA, three Miles in Length.
More to the East lies BRASA, five Miles long, and two broad: it has some arable Ground, and two Churches.
BURRAY is three Miles long, has good Pasturage, abounds with Fish on the Coast, and has a Church in it. No Mice will live here; and, 'tis said, they forsake the Place, where-ever the Earth of it is brought.
Shetland
is divided into twelve Parishes; but there are many more Churches and Chapels in it. This Country, like
Orkney,
has no Wood in it; but they have some Fish and Fowl peculiar to themselves. The Inhabitants are very bold in venturing to Sea at all Seasons for Fish, and in climbing the Rocks for Fowl.
It has been debated among the Learned, whether these Islands, the
Orcades,
or the North-east Coast of
Scotland,
was the THULE of the Antients; but we have not room to give an Account of the Arguments for the several Hypotheses, nor to consider which of them are most conclusive; tho' it ought to be observed, that Sir
Robert Sibbald
has in a manner demonstrated, that the North-eastern Parts of
Scotland
were what the Antients called so. For thus speaks
Claudian,
of
Theodosius,
Father of the Emperor of that Name:
Ille Caledoniis posuit qui castra pruinis.
— Maduerunt Saxone fuso
Orcades, incaluit Pictorum sanguine Thule,
Scotorum cumulos flevit glacialis Ierne.
In
Caledonian
Frosts encamp'd he stood,
When
Orkney
Isles were dy'd with
Saxon
Blood:
Then THULE with the
Pictish
Gore grew hot,
Icy
Strathern
bemoan'd each slaughter'd
Scot.
Silius Italicus
takes notice, in
Thule,
of a Custom well known among the antient
Britons
and
Caledonians:
Coerulus haud aliter cum dimicat incola Thules,
Agmina falcifero circumvenit acta covino.
So, when the azure Son of
Thule
wars,
He circles Armies driv'n in pointed Cars.
The chief Families in
Orkney
and
Shetland
are the
Bruces, Sinclairs, Mouats, Nivets, Chyneys, Stuarts, Grahams, Moodies, Dowglasses, Honeymans, Trails, Bakies, Southerlands, Craigies, Youngs, Buchanans, &c.
But the most antient, and, I may say, original, are the
Fletts, Hackrews, Richens, Feas, Skolas, Grottes,
&c.
In the Mouth of the River FORTH lie several Islands, the most considerable of which is the MAY: it was formerly dedicated to St.
Adrian,
who was martyred there by the
Danes,
and afterwards a religious Place was built in Memory of him. The Monks gave out, that barren Women, who came thither annually to worship at St.
Adrian
's Shrine, would thereby be cured of their Barrenness; and it was frequented upon that Account by Women in the Popish Times. But whether St.
Adrian
or the Monks had the most Influence in curing their Barrenness, I determine not. Yet that fond, silly Persuasion obtained so much Credit, that
Wood,
of
Largo,
who was a noted Sea Captain, had a Charter of several Lands from King
James
IV. to be in Readiness upon Call to attend his Majesty and the Queen while they visited St.
Adrian.
This Island is a Mile long from North to South, and about a Quarter of a Mile broad: it lies seven Miles from the Coast of
Fife,
has a fresh-water Spring, and a small Lake. There grows no Corn here; but in the Summer it affords Pasturage for an hundred Sheep, and twenty Black Cattle. The West-side is inaccessible, because of high Rocks; but the Eastside is plain, and has four Places where Boats may arrive, one of them a safe Harbour for Ships during a strong West Wind. Fish of all Sorts are numerous on the Coast of this Island, and it abounds with Fowl, particularly those called Skarts, Dunters, Gulls, Scouts, and Kittawaax; the latter is about the Size of a Dove, and in
July
is prefer'd to a Partridge. The Scouts are somewhat less than a Duck, but their Eggs are larger than those of a Goose, and being boiled hard, eat very well with Vinegar and Parsley. This Island of
May
formerly belonged to the Priory of
Pittenweem,
but was granted in Fee by King
Charles
I. to
Cunningham
of
Barns,
with Liberty to build a Light-house there for the Benefit of Ships; for the Maintenance of which they were to allow 2
d. per
Tun. A Tower of 40 Foot high is built there for that End, with a Fire every Night; and the first Builder was cast away, in returning from thence to his House in
Fife,
by a Tempest which some poor old Women were executed for raising.
The BASS lies next; but I have given an Account of it already.
Higher up in the
Forth
lies INCHKEITH, betwixt
Fife
and
Lothian,
a Mile and a half long, and about half a Mile broad: the Soil is fat, and produces good Grass, and abundance of physical Herbs. It has four fresh-water Springs, and as many Harbours, one towards each Quarter: it rises in the Middle, and has a strong Stone Fort raised upon it by Queen
Mary.
There is a Stone Quarry here, which sends forth a strong sulphurous Smell, when any Pieces are broken off, but very fit for Building. There are great Shoals of Fish round the Coasts of this Island, and abundance of Oysters during the Winter. This Island had its Name from the noble Family of
Keith,
whose Founder had this Island, with the Barony of
Ceith-mareschal
in
Lothian,
and the Hereditary Dignity of Earl Mareschal of
Scotland
conferr'd upon him by King
Malcolm
II. in the Year 1010. for his Valour in the Battle against the
Danes
at
Bar
in
Angus.
It came afterwards to the Crown, and was given by King
Robert
II. to
John
Lord
Lyon
of
Glames,
the Chief of that Family, with the Barony of
Kinghorn,
upon his marrying that Prince's Daughter. It is since in other Hands. It is observed, that Horses grow fat here in a little time.
Higher up, within two Miles of
Aberdour,
lies an Island, called ST. COLM'S INCH, as being dedicated to St.
Columba:
it had formerly a famous Abbey, with large Endowments, but it is now ruined; and upon the Alienation of Abbey Lands, was given to the Lord
Downs,
a Branch of the Family of
Stuart.
Higher up lies INCHGARVY, between two Promontories, near the
Queen's Ferry
; it was also fortified, and the Guns of the Forts could reach the Shore or both Sides, so that no Ships could safely pass it without Leave.
On the Top of an high rocky Hill, at the Westend of the Islands of
Orkney,
near the Village of
Skeal,
there is a sort of Pavement consisting of Stones variously figured, some like an Heart, others like a Crown, a Leg, a Weaver's Shuttle,
&c.
It takes up above a Quarter of a Mile in Length, and from 20 to 30 Feet in Breadth. In removing any of these Stones, the Figure is as neat on the Underside, as the Upper, and being as big as the Life, all of one Colour, or a reddish Kind of Stone, pitched in a reddish Earth, and the Pavemen so very long, it cannot be any of the tessellated or chequer'd Works of the
Romans.
Part of a Garden Wall is decorated with these Stones, and many of them are taken away by the neighbouring Gentry, to set them up like
Dutch
Tiles in their Chimneys; so that, at this rate, in less than a Century, this Pavement will in all likelihood subsist only in Books.
It has been long observed, that the Islands of
Scotland,
especially the Western, lie more conveniently for carrying on, and bringing the Fishing-trade to Perfection, than any other Parts of
Europe.
King
Charles
I. began the Experiment, in Conjunction with a Company of Merchants; but that Design miscarried by the Civil War, which unhappily broke out at that Time. The next Attempt was made by King
Charles
II. who also joined with some Merchants; and this succeeded well for a Time. Mr.
Martin
assures us, from such as saw the Fish that were caught by that Company, that they were reputed the best in
Europe
of their Kind, and accordingly bore a greater Price. But this Design was ruin'd thus: The King having Occasion for Money, was advised to withdraw that which was employ'd in the Fishery; at which the Merchants being displeased, and disagreeing likewise among themselves, they also withdrew their Money, and that Design has never been renewed since that Time.
But the Revival of this Undertaking will, in all Probability, be one of the Blessings which this Island will reap by the late happy Union. What can't
English
Money, and
Scotish
Industry, effect!
The settling a Fishery in those Parts will raise a Nursery of stout and able Seamen in a very short time, to serve the Government on all Occasions. A new Colony need not be planted there; for the Inhabitants of the
Western Isles
are reckoned to be about 50,000; many of whom have no Employment, and are generally dextrous at the Oar, and only want to be furnished with proper Materials for the Fishing-trade, which would encourage the setting up other Manufactures. The Commodiousness and Safety of the numerous Bays and Harbours in those Isles seem as if Nature had designed them for promoting Trade. They have such abundance of Turf and Peat for Fewel, as would furnish Salt-pans with Fire all the Year round. The Coast of each Island affords many thousand Loads of Sea-ware, which, if preserved, might be successfully used for making Glass, and likewise Kelp for Soap. Several of the Islands afford great Quantities of fine Clay; which, if improved, might turn to a good Account in making Earthen-ware of all Sorts. Cod and Ling, as well as lesser Fish, are to be had on the Coasts of the lesser as well as the greater Islands; and what has been said of the
Western Isles,
may be said likewise of the Isles of
Orkney
and
Shetland.
Having thus concluded our Tour thro' the whole Island, we shall, in order to render the same more complete, subjoin the following Articles, respecting as well the
Southern
as
Northern
Parts thereof; and begin first with the following
Brief Abstract of the
SEATS
of the
English
Nobility and Gentry
See
Page
244. in this Volume, for the
Scotish
Seats.
; togethe
with the Number of
Parishes, Market-Towns,
principal
Rivers,
&c. in eac
County of
England
and
Wales.
BEDFORDSHIRE.] Circumference 73 Miles, contains 124 Parishes, and 4 Market-towns; the Shire-town,
Bedford:
principal Rivers,
Ouse
and
Ivel.
Seats of the Nobility and Gentry:
Woeburn-abby,
Duke of Bedford
's; Wrest,
Duke of Kent
's; Houghton-park,
Earl of Ailsbury
's; Hawnes,
Lord Carteret
's; Melchburn,
Lord St. John
's; Bromham,
Lord Trevor
's; Battleselden,
Lord Bathurst
's; Southill,
Lord Torrington
's; Luton,
Sir John Napier
's; Holcot,
Sir B. Charnock
's; Odell,
Sir Rawl. Alston
's; Chicksand,
Sir D'an
. Osborn
's; Wotton,
Sir H. Monoux
's; Sutton,
Sir R. Burgoigne
's; Ickwelbury,
Mr. Harvey
's; the Hasles,
Mr. Kingsley
's; Stratton,
Mr. Cotton
's.
BERKSHIRE.] Circumference 140 Miles, contains 140 Parishes, and 12 Market-towns; Town of most Note,
Reading
: chief Rivers,
Thames
and
Kennet.
Seats:
Wytham,
Earl of Abingdon
's; Bill-hill,
Lord Gower
's; Hamstead Marshall
and
Ashdown-park,
Lord Craven
's; Cavesham,
Lord Cadogan
's; Aldermarston,
Lord Stawell
's; Radley,
Sir J. Stonhouse
's; Hurly,
Mrs. Williams
's; Bramsell,
Sir John Cope
's; Sunning,
Lady Rich
's; Swallow-field,
Mr. Pitt
's; Billingbear,
Mr. Nevill
's; Coley,
Col. Thomson
's.
BUCKINGHAMSHIRE.] Circumference 138 Miles, contains 185 Parishes, and 15 Market-towns; Shire-town,
Buckingham:
chief Rivers,
Tame, Ouse, Colin.
Seats:
Bulstrode,
Duke of Portland
's; Ashridge,
Duke of Bridgwater
's; Cliefden,
Prince of Wales
's; Langley,
Lord Massam
's; Stow,
Lord Cobham
's; Denton,
Judge Denton
's; Chicheley,
Sir John Chester
's; Denham-court,
Sir W. Bowyer
's; Denham,
late Sir R. Hill
's; Hartwell,
Sir Tho. Lee
's; Wooton Underwood,
Mr. Greenville
's; Amersham Mount,
Mr. Drake
's; Kingsey,
Mr. Herbert
's; Stoke,
Mrs. Halsey
's.
CAMBRIDGESHIRE.] Circumference 130 Miles, contains 163 Parishes, and 8 Market-towns; Shire-town,
Cambridge:
principal Rivers,
Ouse
and
Cam.
Seats:
Chevely,
Duke of Somerset
's; Thornby-abbey,
Duke of Beaufort
's; Gogmagog-hills,
Earl Godolphin
's
; Wimple, Lord Hardwicke
's; Catlidge,
late Lord North and Grey
's; Maddingley,
Sir J. Hynde Cotton
's; Gamlingay,
Sir G. Downing
's; Snalwell,
Sir R. Clarke
's; Chippingham,
Mr. Sandy
's; Dalham-hall,
Mr. Affleck
's; Exning,
Mr. Shepherd
's; Potsam,
Mr. Sheppard
's; Horse-heath,
Mr. Bromley
's.
CHESHIRE.] Circumference 112 Miles, contains 71 Parishes, and 13 Market-towns; chief,
Chester:
principal Rivers,
Dee
and
Weaver.
Seats:
Cholmondeley-hall,
Earl of Cholmondeley
's; Dunham Massey,
Earl of Warrington
's; Rocksavage,
Earl of Barrymore
's; Woody,
Earl of Dysert
's; Combermere,
Sir R. S. Cotton
's; Eaton,
Sir R. Grosvenor
's; Aston,
Sir T. Aston
's; Staney,
Sir C. Bunbury
's; Arley,
Sir G. Warburton
's; Oulton,
Mr. Egerton
's; Vale Royal,
Mr. Cholmondeley
's; Crew-hall,
Mr. Crew Offley
's; Lyme,
Mr. Leigh
's.
CORNWALL.] Circumference 230 Miles, contains 171 Parishes, and 27 Towns; chief Town
Launceston:
principal Rivers,
Tamer, Camel,
and
Fale.
Seats:
Truro
and
Lanhidrock,
Earl of Radnor
's; Godolphin,
Earl Godolphin
's; Tregothan,
Lord Falmouth
's; Stow,
Countess of Granville
's; Boconock,
Mr. Pitt
's; Trerise,
Lord Arundel
's; Trelowarren,
Sir F. Vyvyan
's; Newton,
Sir J. Coryton
's; Pencarrow,
Sir J. Molesworth
's; Trelawney,
Sir J. Trelawney
's; Trebitch,
Sir B. Wrey
's; Clowance,
Sir J. St. Aubin
's; Mount-Edgcomb,
Mr. Edgcomb
's.
CUMBERLAND.] Circumference 168 Miles, contains 58 Parishes, and 15 Towns; chief,
Carlisle:
principal River,
Eden.
Seats:
Greystock-castle,
Duke of Norfolk
's; Drumbugh-castle,
Ditto;
Cockermouth-castle,
Duke of Somerset
's; Naworth,
Earl of Carlisle
's; Kirk-Oswald,
late Earl of Sussex
's; D'Acre-castle,
Ditto;
Hutton-hall,
late Sir George Fletcher
's,
Bart.
DERBYSHIRE.] Circumference 130 Miles, contains 106 Parishes, and 9 Towns; Shire-town,
Derby:
principal Rivers,
Trent
and
Derwent.
Seats:
Chatsworth,
Duke of Devon
's; Hardwick,
Ditto;
Belvoir-castle,
Duke of Rutland
's; Belsover-castle,
Duke of Newcastle
's; Haddon,
Ditto;
Bretly,
Earl of Chesterfield
's; Sutton,
late Earl of Scarsdale
's; Stavely,
Lord James Cavendish
's; Kedleston,
Sir J. Curson
's; Walton,
Sir J. Jenkinson
's; Calke,
Sir John Harper
's; Longford,
Mr. Cooke
's; Melber,
Ditto.
DEVONSHIRE.] Circumference 200 Miles, contains 394 Parishes, and 32 Towns; chief,
Exeter:
Rivers,
Tamer, Turridge, Ex, Taw,
and
Dart.
Seats:
Culliton,
Sir W. Yonge
's; Poudramcastle,
Sir W. Courtney
's; Shute,
Sir W. Pole
's; Poltymore,
Sir J. Bampfylde
's; Ashe,
Lady Drake
's;
Colomb,
Sir T. Ackland
's; Ackland,
Ditto;
Werrington,
Sir W. Morrice
's; Pyne,
Sir H. Northcote
's.
DORSETSHIRE.] Circumference 150 Miles, contains 248 Parishes, 19 Towns; Shire-town,
Dorchester:
Rivers,
Stowre, Frome,
&c.
Seats:
Winburn St. Giles
's, Earl of Shaftsbury
's; Sherbourn,
Lord Digby
's; Puddle-town,
Lord Walpole
's; Critchell,
Sir W. Napier
's; Eastbury,
Mr. Dodington
's; Charborough,
Mr. Drax
's; Chettle,
Mr. Chaffin
's; Kingston,
Mr. Pitt
's; Melbury,
Col. Horner
's; Stinsford,
Ditto;
Lichett,
Col. Trenchard
's; Woolveton,
Ditto;
Lullworth-castle,
Mr. Weld
's; Smedmore,
Mr. Clavell
's; Kingston-hall,
Mr. Banks
's; Bryanstone,
Mr. Portman
's.
DURHAM.] Circumference 107 Miles, contains 118 Parishes, and 6 Towns; chief,
Durham:
Rivers,
Tyne, Ware, Derwent, Tees.
Seats:
Lumley-castle,
Earl of Scarborough
's; Ravensworth-castle,
Sir H. Lyddal
's
; — Mr. Bowes
's; Awkland,
Bishop of Durham
's.
ESSEX.] Circumference 146 Miles, contains 415 Parishes, and 21 Towns; chief Town,
Chelmsford:
Rivers,
Thames, Stowre, Coln, Chelmer, Lea, Crouch, Roding.
Seats:
Audley-end,
Earl of Suffolk
's; Moulsamhall,
Earl Fitzwalter
's; Shortgrove,
Earl of Thomond
's; Wansted,
Earl Tilney
's
; near
Chelmsford,
late Lord Barrington
's; Brentwood,
Lord Petre
's; Ingatstone,
Ditto;
Copt-hall,
Sir T. Webster
's; Hill-hall,
Sir Edw. Smith
's; Lowlayton,
late Sir F. Tench
's; Felix-hall,
Sir A. T. Abdy
's; Albyn's,
Sir R. Abdy
's; Little Leighs-hall,
Sir G. Alleyn
's; Liston-hall,
Sir S. Barnardiston
's; Giddy-hall,
Sir John Eyles
's; New-hall,
Mr. Hoare
's; Hallingbury-hall,
Mr. Houblon
's; Marcks,
Mr. Mildmay
's.
GLOUCESTERSHIRE.] Circumference 138 Miles, contains 280 Parishes, and 26 Towns; chief,
Gloucester:
Rivers,
Severn, Wye, Stroud, Isis, Aven.
Seats:
Badmington,
Duke of Beaufort
's; Berkley-castle,
Earl of Berkley
's; Camden-house,
Earl of Gainsborough
's; Kemsford,
Lord Weymouth
's; Barr's-court,
Sir J. Newton
's; Rendcomb,
Sir J. Guise
's; Elsmore,
Ditto;
Sherburne,
Sir J. Dutton
's; Durham,
Mr. Blaithwaite
's; Fairford,
Mr. Lamb
's; Stoke,
Mr. Berkley
's; King's Weston,
Mr. Southwell
's; Siston-house,
Mr. Trotman
's; Barrington,
Lord Hensol
's.
HANTS.] Circumference 100 Miles, contains 253 Parishes, and 16 Towns; Shire-towns,
South-ampton
and
Winchester:
Rivers,
Stowre, Avon, Itching,
&c.
Seats:
Hackwood,
Duke of Bolton
's; Abbot's-stone,
Ditto;
Quicksett,
Earl of Salisbury
's; Down-husband,
Lord Lymington
's; Chilton-candover,
Sir R. Worseley
's; Mottisfont,
Sir R. Mills
's; Newton-berry,
Ditto;
Throekill,
Mr. Allaway
's; Hide-hall,
Lady Miller
's; The Grange,
Mr. Henley
's; Stratfieldsea,
Mr. Pitt
's; Hermaid,
Mr. Jervis
's; Soberton,
Mr. Lewis
's; Kelsey,
Mr. Pointer
's; Moyle's-court,
Mr. Lisle
's.
Isle of Wight,
belonging to this County, is 60 Miles in Circumference, contains 36 Parishes, and 3 Towns; chief Seat,
Appledoor-comb,
Sir Robert Worsley
's,
Bart.
HEREFORDSHIRE.] Circumference 102 Miles, contains 176 Parishes, and 8 Towns; chief,
Hereford:
Rivers,
Wye, Arrow, Lug, Frome.
Seats:
Brampton-bryan,
Earl of Oxford
's; Shopton-court,
Lord Bateman
's; Hampton-court,
Sir Michael Newton
's; Croft-castle,
Sir Archer Crofts
's; Burhope,
Sir Edward Goodyer
's; Newport,
Mr. Foley
's; Stoke,
Mr. Auditor Foley
's; Heywood,
Mr. Auditor Harley
's; Mockas-court,
Mr. Cornwall
's.
HERTFORDSHIRE.] Circumference 130 Miles, contains 120 Parishes, and 18 Towns; chief,
Hertford:
Rivers,
Colm, Lea.
Seats:
Holywell,
Duchess of Marlborough
's; Hatfield,
Earl of Salisbury
's; Cashiobury,
Earl of Essex
's; Coley-green,
Earl Cowper
's; Hartingfordbury,
Ditto;
Langley,
Lord Raymond
's; Gorrumbery,
Lord Grimston
's; Lammer,
Sir S. Garrard
's; The Hoo,
Mrs. Brand
's; Titenhanger,
Sir T. Pope Blunt
's; Cognedge,
Sir J. Jennings
's; Beachwood,
Sir F. Seabright
's; Offley,
Sir H. Penrice
's; Bellbar,
Lady Jekyll
's; Northall,
Sir W. Lemon
's; Gubbins,
Mr. Sambroke
's; Balls,
late Gov. Harrison
's; Moore-park,
Mr. Style
's; Apston-hall,
Mr. Freeman
's; Bennington,
Mr. Caesar
's; Blakesware,
Mr. Plummer
's; Knebworth,
Mr. Robinson
's; Widgell-hall,
Mr. Gulston
's; Ware-park,
Mr. Byde
's; Stagny-hall,
Mr. Heysham
's; Tuing-water,
Mr. Heat
's; Penly,
Mr. Harcourt
's; Briggins,
Mr. Chester
's; Berkhamstead magna,
Mr. Roper
's.
HUNTINGDONSHIRE.] Circumference 67 Miles, contains 79 Parishes, and 6 Towns; chief,
Huntingdon:
Rivers,
Ouse,
&c.
Seats:
Kimbolton-castle,
Duke of Manchester
's; Hinchinbroke,
Earl of Sandwich
's; Great Gedding,
Earl of Rockingham
's; Bugden,
Bishop of Lincoln
's; Stoughton,
late Sir Baldwin Conyers
's.
KENT.] Circumference 162 Miles, contains 408 Parishes, and 30 Towns; chief,
Canterbury:
Rivers,
Thames, Medway, Stowre, Darent,
&c.
Seats:
Greenwich,
a Palace Royal;
Rochester,
Bp. of Rochester
's; Knowl,
Duke of Dorset
's; Eastwell,
Earl of Winchelsea
's; Hothfield,
Earl of Thanet
's; Penshurst,
Earl of Leicester
's; Chevening,
Earl Stanhope
's; Fair-lawn,
Lord Vane
's; Leeds-castle,
Lord Fairfax
's; Surrenden,
Sir Edward Deering
's; Blackheath,
Sir Gregory Page
's; Mersham,
Sir Windham Knatchbull
's; Leeds-abbey,
Sir Roger Meredith
's; Sutton,
Sir Edward Filmer
's; Barham-downs,
Sir Basil Dixwell
's; Waldershire,
Earl of Rockingham
's; Chilham-castle,
Mr. Colebrooke
's; Squirrels,
Mr. Ward
's.
LANCASHIRE.] Circumference 170 Miles, contains 60 Parishes, and 26 Towns; chief,
Lancaster:
Rivers,
Mersey, Ribdle, Lon, Irk, Irwel.
Seats:
Stoney-hurst,
Duke of Norfolk
's; Ashtonhall,
Duke Hamilton
's; Knowsley,
Earl of Derby;
Dunkeyhalgh,
Lord Petre
's; Haigh,
Sir Roger Bradshaigh
's,
Bart.
Hough-end,
Sir John Bland
's; Heaton,
Sir Edward Egerton
's; Latham,
Thomas Bootle
's,
Esq
LEICESTERSHIRE.] Circumference 96 Miles, contains 200 Parishes, and 12 Towns; chief,
Leicester:
Rivers,
Stowre, Reek, Swift.
Seats:
Garenton,
Duke of Montagu
's; Ashby-dela-Zouch
and
Dunnington-park,
Earl of Huntingdon
's; Stanton-Harold,
Earl of Ferrers
's; Stanton-Brudenell,
Earl of Cardigan
's; Broad-gate,
Earl of Stamford
's; Bosworth,
Sir Wolstan Dixie
's; Stanford,
Sir Thomas Cave
's; Kirkby-Mallory,
Sir Edward Noel
's.
LINCOLNSHIRE.] Circumference 180 Miles, contains 630 Parishes, and 35 Towns; chief,
Lincoln:
Rivers,
Weland, Trent, Humber, Nen, Wythem.
Seats:
Normanby,
late Duke of Buck
's; Grimsthorp
and
Earsby,
Duke of Ancaster's;
Belton,
Lord Tyrconnel
's; Nocton,
Sir William Ellis
's; Doddington,
late Sir Edward Hussy
's,
Bart.
Gunby,
late Sir William Massenbeard
's; Gainsborough,
Sir Willoughby Hickman
's; Stanfield,
Sir John Tyrwhit
's; Aswarby,
Sir Francis Whichcote
's; Ormsby,
Mr. Massenbeard
's; Thoresby,
Captain Wood
's; Harrington,
Mr. Amcourt
's.
MIDDLESEX.] Circumference 81 Miles, contains 73 Parishes and 4 Towns; chief,
London:
Rivers,
Thames, Colne.
Seats:
Sion-house,
Duke of Somerset
's
; Duke of Beaufort
's,
and late Earl of Ranelagh
's
Houses at
Chelsey; Buckingham-house,
Duchess of Buckingham
's; Montagu-house,
Duke of Montagu
's; Southampton-house,
Duke of Bedford
's; Berkley-house,
Duke of Devonshire
's; Cannons,
Duke of Chandos
's; Marlborough-house,
Duchess of Marlborough
's; Villa Carey Parsons-green,
Col. Mordaunt
's; Chiswick
and
Sutton-court,
Earl of Burlington
's; Bushy-park,
Earl of Halifax
's; Halenton,
Earl of Holderness
's; Cranford,
Earl of Berkley
's; Bellsise,
Earl of Chesterfield
's
; at
Chiswick,
Earl of Wilmington
's; Gunnersbury,
Lord Hobard
's; Dawley,
late Lord Bolingbroke
's; Whitton,
Lady Falkland
's; Kempton park,
Sir John Chardin
's; Harrow,
Sir John Rushout
's; Oisterly-park,
late Sir Francis Child
's; Harfield,
Sir Edward Newdigate
's; Sunbury,
Sir Roger Hudson
's,
and Mr. Turner
's; Bush-hall,
Sir Jeremy-Vanacker Sambrook
's; Hanworth,
Lord Vere Beauclerk
's; Forty-hill,
Mrs. Wolstenholm
's; Holland-house,
Mr. Edward
's
; near
Chiswick,
Henry Barker
's,
Esq
MONMOUTHSHIRE.] Circumference 80 Miles, contains 127 Parishes, and 7 Towns; chief,
Monmouth
; Rivers,
Monow, Wye, Usk, Rumney.
Seats:
Troy-house,
Duke of Beaufort
's; Llangibby,
Sir John Williams
's; Tredegar,
late Sir William Morgan
's; Pont-pool,
Mr. Hanbury
's.
NORFOLK.] Circumference 140 Miles, contains 660 Parishes, and 31 Towns; chief,
Northampton:
Rivers,
Ouse, Waveny, Yare, Frin.
Seats:
Norwich Palace,
Duke of Norfolk
's; Paston-hall,
late Earl of Yarmouth
's; Stifcay
and
Raynham,
Lord Townshend
's; Blickling,
Lord Hobart
's; Houghton,
Sir Robert Walpole
's; Melton-Constable,
Sir Jacob Ashley
's,
Bart.
Ranworth-hall,
Col. Sidney
's; Garboldisham,
Sir Edmund Bacon
's; Kirby-Bedon,
Sir Thomas Berney
's; Oxborough,
Sir Henry Bedingfield
's; Hunstanton,
Sir Thomas L'Estrange
's.
NORTHAMPTONSHIRE.] Circumference 120 Miles, contains 326 Parishes, and 11 Towns; chief,
Northampton:
Rivers,
Weland, Nen, Ouse.
Seats:
Boughton,
Duke of Montagu
's; Burleigh,
Earl of Exeter
's; Castle-Ashby,
Earl of Northampton
's; Althorp,
Duke of Marlborough
's; Easton,
Earl of Pomfret
's; Easton-Maudit,
Earl of Sussex
's; Dean,
Earl of Cardigan
's; Rockingham,
Earl of Rockingham
's; Kirby,
Lord Hatton
's; Drayton,
Lady Betty Jermain
's; Findon,
Sir John Dolbin
's,
Bart.
Farthingoe,
Sir Edward Egerton
's; Culworth,
Sir John D'Anvers
's; Brampton,
Sir William Norwich
's; Kelmarsh,
Mr. Hanbury
's.
NORTHUMBERLAND.] Circumference 155 Miles, contains 46 Parishes, and 11 Towns; chief,
Newcastle:
Rivers,
Tweed, Tyne.
Seats:
Belsey,
Sir William Middleton
's; Gibside,
George Bowes
's,
Esq
Elswick,
Ralph Jenison
's,
Esq
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.] Circumference 90 Miles, contains 168 Parishes, and 9 Towns; chief,
Nottingham:
Rivers,
Trent, Iddle,
&c.
Seats:
Nottingham-castle, Haughton,
and
Welbeck-abbey,
Duke of Newcastle
's; Thorsby
and
Holmes-Pierre-point,
Duke of Kingston
's; Woollaton-hall,
Lord Middleton
's; Kelham,
late Lord Lexington
's; Newsted-abbey,
Lord Byron
's; Warshop,
Lord Willoughby
's
of Parham;
Rufford,
Sir George Savil
's; Bunny,
Sir Thomas Parkyns
's.
OXFORDSHIRE.] Circumference 130 Miles, contains 280 Parishes, and 15 Towns; chief,
Oxford:
Rivers,
Thames, Tame, Isis, Charwell, Windrush, Evenload.
Seats:
Woodstock
and
Blenheim-castle,
Duchess Dowager of Marlborough
's; Hethorp,
Earl of Shrewsbury
's; Ditchley,
Earl of Litchfield
's; Cornbury,
Earl of Clarendon
's; Rycott,
Earl of Abingdon
's; Sherburne,
Earl of Macclesfield
's; North-brook,
Sir Robert Dashwood
's; Water-stock,
late Sir Henry Ashurst
's,
Bart.
Chislehampton,
Sir John D'oyle
's; Sarsdon,
late Sir Robert Walter
's; Waltone,
Sir Robert Jenkinson
's; Wood-Perry,
Mr. Moss
's; Kiddington,
Sir Charles Browne
's.
RUTLANDSHIRE.] Circumference 40 Miles, contains 48 Parishes, and 2 Towns; chief,
Oakham:
Rivers,
Weland, Wash.
Seats:
Burleigh on the Hill,
Earl of Winchelsea
's; Exton-brook,
Earl of Gainsborough
's; Ashton,
Earl of Cardigan's.
SHROPSHIRE.] Circumference 134 Miles, contains 170 Parishes, and 15 Towns; chief,
Shrewsbury:
Rivers,
Severn, Culm, Rea, Roden, Teme, Tern.
Seats:
High-Ercal,
Earl of Bradford
's; Haughton,
Sir Hugh Brigge
's; Watlesborough,
Sir Edward Leighton
's; Longner,
Sir Richard Corbet
's; Cond,
Mr. Creswell
's; Wallcot,
Mr. Wallcot
's; Oakley-park,
Mr. Herbert
's; Stoke-castle,
Mr. Baldwin
's; Henly,
Mr. Powis
's.
SOMERSETSHIRE.] Circumference 150 Miles; contains 385 Parishes, and 30 Towns; chief,
Bristol:
Rivers,
Severn, Avon, Frome, Parret, Torr, Tone.
Seats:
Hinton St. George,
Earl Powlet
's; Ham-house,
Lord Stowell
's; Nettlecomb,
Sir John Trevelyan
's; Orchard-Wyndham,
Sir William Wyndham
's; Brampton,
Sir Philip Sydenham
's; Ford-abbey,
Mr. Gwyn
's; Orchard-Portman,
Mr. Portman
's; Fairfield,
Mr. Palmer
's.
STAFFORDSHIRE.] Circumference 141 Miles, contains 150 Parishes, and 18 Towns; chief,
Stafford:
Rivers,
Trent, Churnet, Dove, Blithe, Line, Tean, Sow, Pink, Manifold.
Seats:
Beaudesert,
Earl of Uxbridge
's; Chartley-castle,
Lord Ferrers
's; Drayton,
Lord Paget
's; Trentham,
Lord Gower
's; Dudley-castle,
Lord Dudley
's, Tixell,
Lord Aston
's; Ingstree,
Lord Chetwind
's; Oakley,
Sir Philip Chetwood
's; Wrine-hall,
Sir Edward Egerton
's; Pateshul,
Sir John Astley
's; Pillaton,
Sir Edward Littleton
's; Wolseley,
Sir Charles Wolseley
's; Keel-hall,
Mr. Sneyd
's; Okeover,
Mr. Okeover
's.
SUFFOLK.] Circumference 165 Miles, contains 575 Parishes, and 30 Towns; chief,
Ipswich:
Rivers,
Stowre, Breton, Deben, Blithe, Orwell,
&c.
Seats:
Ewston-hall,
Duke of Grafton
's; Ickworth,
Earl of Bristol
's; Broom-hall
and
Culford-hall,
Lord Cornwallis
's; Milden-hall,
Sir Thomas Hanmer
's,
Bart.
Long Melford,
Sir Cordell Fire-brass
's; Benhall,
Mr. Tyrell
's; Pakenham,
Sir William Spring
's; Heringfleet,
Sir Edmund Bacon
's; Ketton
and
Brightwell,
Sir Samuel Barnardiston
's,
Bart.
Glemham-hall,
Mr. North
's.
SURRY.] Circumference 112 Miles, contains 140 Parishes, and 9 Towns; chief,
Southwark:
Rivers,
Thames, Mole.
Seats:
New Park,
Lord Walpole
's; Claremont,
Duke of Newcastle
's; Wimbleton,
Duchess of Marlborough
's; Weybridge,
Earl of Portmore
's; Albury,
Earl of Aylesford
's; East-Clanden,
Lord Onslow
's; Ockam,
Lord King
's; Epsom,
Lord Gilford
's; Woodcote,
Lord Baltimore
's
; Sir Matthew Decker
's,
at
Richmond; Beddington,
Sir Hacket Carew
's,
Bart.
Sheen,
Sir John Buckworth
's; Wotton,
Sir John Evelyn
's,
Bart.
Ashted,
Lord Berkshire
's; Wimbleton,
Sir Theodore Janssen
's; Row-Hampton,
Mr. Jeffery
's; Cashalton,
Mr. Scawen
's; Fetcham,
Mr. Revel
's; Esher Place,
Mr. Pelham
's; Rygate,
Parsons
's,
who died Lord Mayor of
London,
in 1741.
SUSSEX.] Circumference 158 Miles, contains 312 Parishes, and 16 Towns; chief,
Chichester:
Rivers,
Arun,
&c.
Seats:
Petworth,
Duke of Somerset
's; Haland
and
Bishopstone,
Duke of Newcastle
's; Arundel-castle,
Duke of Norfolk
's; Stoneland
and
Buckhurst,
Duke of Dorset
's; Godwood,
Duke of Richmond
's; Stanstead,
Earl of Scarborough
's; Eastborne-place,
Earl of Wilmington
's; Ashburnham,
Earl of Ashburnham
's; Up-park,
Earl of Tankerville
's; Cowdry,
Lord Montagu
's; Firle,
Sir William Gage
's; Battle-abbey,
Sir Thomas Webster
's; Ratton,
Sir Walter Parker
's; Michel Grove,
Sir John Shelly
's; Parkham,
Sir Cecil Bishop
's; Hursmonceaux,
Mr. Hare
's,
Son to the late Bishop;
Den,
Mr. Eversfield
's; Stammer,
Mr. Pelham
's; Slaugham,
late Mr. Morton
's.
WARWICKSHIRE.] Circumference 110 Miles, 158 Parishes, and 17 Towns; chief,
Coventry:
Rivers,
Avon,
&c.
Seats:
Tamworth-castle,
Earl of Ferrers
's; Newenham-paddox,
Earl of Denbigh
's; Compton in the Hole,
Earl of Northampton
's; Hewel-grange,
Earl of Plymouth
's; Ettington,
Earl of Ferrers
's; Castle-Bromwich,
Viscount Hereford
's; Stonely,
Lord Leigh
's; Ragby
and
Popham,
Lord Conway
's; Warwick-castle,
Lord Brook
's; Coleshill,
Lord Digby
's; Newhold-hall,
Sir Francis Skipwith
's; Arbury,
Sir Edward Newdigate
's; Tamworth,
Mr. Archer
's; Rugly,
Mr. Conway
's; Bagington,
Mr. Bromley
's.
WESTMORLAND.] Circumference 110 Miles, contains 26 Parishes, and 8 Towns; chief,
Kendal:
Rivers,
Eden, Can, Eamon, Lon,
&c.
Seats:
Pendragon-castle,
Earl of Thanet
's; Beltham-castle,
Earl of Derby
's; Appleby-castle,
Earl of Thanet
's; Lowther-hall,
Lord Lonsdale
's; Rydall,
Sir George Fleming
's; White-haven,
Sir James Lowther
's.
WILTSHIRE.] Circumference 128 Miles, contains 304 Parishes, and 24 Towns; chief,
Salisbury:
Rivers,
Isis, Kennet, Avon, Willy, Nadde.
Seats:
Tokenham,
Duke of Somerset
's; Ednington,
Duke of Bolton
's; Wilton,
Earl of Pembroke
's; Tylshead,
Earl Godolphin's;
Longleat,
Lord Weymouth
's; Wardour-castle,
Lord Arundel
's
of Wardour;
Maiden-bradley,
Sir Edward Seymour
's; Standlinch,
Sir Peter Vandeput
's
; — Sir Jacob Desbouverie
's; Stourton-castle,
Mr. Hoar
's; Madington,
Mr. Drax
's; Barreford,
Mr. Duncomb
's; Compton,
Mr. Northey
's.
WORCESTERSHIRE.] Circumference 130 Miles, contains 152 Parishes, and 11 Towns; chief,
Worcester:
Rivers,
Severn, Avon, Team,
&c.
Seats:
Grafton,
Duke of Shrewsbury
's; Crome,
Earl of Coventry's;
Great Whitley,
Lord Foley
's; Lenchwich,
Lord Craven
's; Westwood,
Sir Herbert-Perrot Pakington
's,
Bart.
Hagley,
Sir Thomas Lyttleton
's; Sodington,
Sir Edward Blount
's; Ombersby,
Mr. Sandy
's.
YORKSHIRE.] Circumference 360 Miles; contains 563 Parishes, and 49 Towns; chief,
York:
Rivers,
Tees
and
Humber,
which receives into it
Aire, Calder, Dun, Derwent, Nile, Ouse,
and
Swall-youre-warf.
Seats:
Mulgrave-castle,
late Duke of Bucks
's; Sheffield Manor,
Duke of Norfolk
's; Kiveton,
Duke of Leeds
's; Castle-Howard,
Earl of Carlisle's
Stainsborough
and
Wentworth-castle,
Earl of Strafford
's; Londesburgh,
Earl of Burlington
's; Hornby-castle,
Earl of Holderness
's; Wentworth-house,
Earl Malton
's; Snaith-hall,
Lord Downs
's; Temple-Newsam,
Lord Irwin
's; Leadstone-hall,
late Lady Betty Hastings
's; Newby,
Sir Edward Blacket
's,
Bart.
Constable-Burton,
Sir Marmaduke Wyvil
's,
Bart.
Great Ribston,
Sir Henry Goodrich
's,
Bart.
Swillington,
Sir William Lowther
's; Spratborough,
late Sir Godfrey Copely
's,
Bart.
Acklam,
Sir William Hustler
's; Angleby Manor,
Sir William Foules
's,
Bart.
Boynton,
Sir William Strickland
's; Scampston,
Sir William St. Quintin
's; Wheatly,
Sir G. Cooke
's; Albrough,
Sir Roger Beckwith's;
Calverley,
Sir Walter Calverley
's; Nostell,
Sir Rowland Wynne
's; Nun Appleton-hall,
Sir William Milner
's; Kirkleatham,
Mr. Turner
's; Whixley,
Mr. Tancred
's; Gisborough,
Mr: Chaloner
's; Hemsley.
Mr. Brown
's
; near
Beverley,
Mr. Bradshaw
's.
In
WALES
are the following Counties:
ANGLESEY.] Circumference 60 Miles, contains 74 Parishes, and 2 Towns; chief,
Beaumaris:
River,
Menia.
Seat: Lord Bulkeley
's,
near
Beaumaris.
BRECKNOCKSHIRE.] Circumference 106 Miles, contains 61 Parishes, and 4 Towns; chief,
Brecknock:
Rivers,
Hodney, Usk.
Seats:
Crickhowel-castle,
and
Tretowre-castle,
Duke of Beaufort
's.
CAERMARTHENSHIRE.] Circumference 102 Miles, contains 87 Parishes, and 8 Towns; chief,
Caermarthen
: River,
Towy.
Seats:
Golden Grove
and
Emlyn,
Duke of Bolton
's; Edingsford,
Sir Nicolas Williams
's; Newton,
Sir John Price
's; Alderglasney,
Sir John Rudd
's.
CAERNARVONSHIRE.] Circumference 95 Miles, contains 68 Parishes, and 6 Towns; chief,
Caernarvon.
CARDIGANSHIRE.] Circumference 94 Miles, contains 77 Parishes, and 4 Towns; chief,
Cardigan:
River,
Tyevye.
DENBIGHSHIRE.] Circumference 116 Miles, contains 57 Parishes, and 4 Towns; chief
Denbigh.
Seats:
Chirk-castle,
Mr. Myddelton
's; Llewenny,
Sir Robert-Salisbury Cotton
's; Wynstay,
Mr. Williams
's.
FLINTSHIRE.] Circumference 40 Miles, contains 28 Parishes, and 3 Towns; chief,
Flint:
River,
Elwy.
Seats:
Mostyn,
Sir Roger Mostyn
's; Llanerch,
Mr. Davies
's.
GLAMORGANSHIRE.] Circumference 112 Miles, contains 118 Parishs, and 9 Towns; chief,
Landaff.
Seats:
Swanzey-castle,
Duke of Beaufort
's; Cardiff-castle,
Lord Windsor
's; Coyty-castle,
late Earl of Leicester
's; Keven Malby,
late Sir Charles Keymis
's; Wenwoe,
Sir William Thomas
's; Llantrithid,
Sir John Aubrey
's; Margam,
Lord Mansell
's; Hensol,
Lord Talbot
's; St. Donat's,
Sir Thomas Stradling
's.
MERIONETHSHIRE.] Circumference 108 Miles, contains 37 Parishes, and 3 Towns; chief,
Harlech.
MONTGOMERYSHIRE.] Circumference 94 Miles, contains 47 Parishes, and 6 Towns; chief,
Montgomery.
Seats:
Powis-castle
and
Buttington-hall,
Marquis of Powis
's; Llymore-lodge
and
Llyssin,
Lord Herbert
's
of Cherbury;
Vaynor,
Lord Hereford
's; Lloydierd,
Mr. Wynne
's; Garth,
Sir Charles Lloyd
's.
PEMBROKESHIRE.] Circumference 93 Miles, contains 45 Parishes, and 9 Towns; chief,
Pembroke.
Seats:
Picton-castle,
Sir Erasmus Phillips
's,
Bart.
Orielton,
Sir Arthur Owen
's; Pendergrass,
Sir Thomas Stepney
's.
RADNORSHIRE.] Circumference 90 Miles, contains 52 Parishes, and 4 Towns; chief,
Radnor.
Seats:
Harnage-grange,
Sir William Fowler
's; Maesyllwich,
Sir Humphry Howarth
's; Artlis
and
Harpton,
Mr. Thomas Lewis
's.
A LIST of the
PEERAGE
of
England
; wherein the Christian Names being omitted, it will be subjected to no other Fluctuations, than by the Extinction of Families.
His Royal Highness the PRINCE of
Wales.
His Royal Highness the DUKE of
Cumberland.
DUKES.
Names
Titles
HOward
Norfolk
Sackville
Dorset
Fitzroy
Grafton
Seymour
Somerset
Fitzroy
Cleveland
Lenox
Richmond
Somerset
Beaufort
Beauclerk
St. Albans
Pawlet
Bolton
Osborne
Leeds
Russell
Bedford
Cavendish
Devonshire
Spencer
Marlborough
Manners
Rutland
Montagu
Montagu
Bertie
Ancaster
Pierrepoint
Kingston
Pelham
Newcastle
Bentinck
Portland
Campbell
Greenwich
Montagu
Manchester
Bridges
Chandos
Egerton
Bridgwater
MARQUIS.
Herbert
Powis.
EARLS.
Talbot
Shrewsbury
Stanley
Derby
Hastings
Huntingdon
Herbert
Pembroke
Clinton
Lincoln
Howard
Suffolk
Cecill
Salisbury
Cecill
Exeter
Sidney
Leicester
Compton
Northampton
Rich
Warwick
Fielding
Denbigh
Fane
Westmorland
Howard
Berkshire
Mordaunt
Peterb.
&c.
Grey
Stamford
Finch
Winchelsea
Stanhope
Chesterfield
Tufton
Thanet
Montagu
Sandwich
Hyde
Clarendon
Capell
Essex
Brudenell
Cardigan
Annesley
Anglesea
Howard
Carlisle
Boyle
Burlington
Cooper
Shaftsbury
Lee
Litchfield
Bruce
Aylesbury
Robarts
Radnor
Berkeley
Berkeley
Bertie
Abingdon
Noel
Gainsborough
D'Arcy
Holderness
Hickman
Plymouth
Howard
Stafford
Lumley
Scarborough
Booth
Warrington
Newport
Bradford
Zulestein
Rochford
Keppel
Albemarle
Coventry
Coventry
Villers
Jersey
Auverquer
que
Grantham
Poulett
Poulett
Cholmondeley
Cholmondeley
Harley
Oxford,
&c.
S
ley
Ferrers
Wentworth
Strafford
Legg
Dartmouth
Paget
Uxbridge
Watson
Rockingham
Bennet
Tankerville
Finch
Aylesford
Godolphin
Godolphin
Hervey
Bristol
Montagu
Halifax
Yelverton
Sussex
Cowper
Cowper
Stanhope
Stanhope
Sherard
Harborough
Parker
Macclesfield
Farmer
Pomfret
Compton
Wilmington
Graham
Graham
Ker
Ker
Waldegrave
Waldegrave
Mildmay
Fitzwalter
Ashburnham
Ashburnham
Howard
Effingham
Wentworth
Malton.
Walpole
Orford.
Stanhope
Harrington
VISCOUNTS.
Devereux
Hereford
Brown
Montacute
Fiennes
Say and Seale
Bellasyse
Fauconberg
Townshend
Townshend
Thynne
Weymouth
Hatton
Hatton
Lowther
Lonsdale
O'Brian
Tadcaster
St. John
St. John
Temple
Cobham
Boscawen
Falmouth
Walop
Lymington
Harcourt
Harcourt
Bing
Torrington.
BARONS.
Nevill
Abergavenny
Touchett
Audley
Seymour
Percy
West
Delaware
Fortescue
Clinton
Ward
Dudley
&
W.
Stourton
Stourton
Verney
Willoughby B.
Willoughby
of
Parham
North
N.
&
Guilford
Cary
Hunsdon
St. John
dit.
of
Bletsoe
Petre
Petre
Gerrard
Gerrard
Arundell
do .
of
Wardour
Blythe
Clifton
Dormer
Dormer
Roper
Teynham
Greville
Brooke
Poulett
Hinton
Maynard
Maynard
Bruce
Bruce
Leigh
Leigh
Byron
Byron
Langdale
Langdale
Berkeley
dit.
of
Stretton
Cornwallis
Cornwallis
Arundell
dit.
of
Trerice
Craven
Craven
Clifford
Clifford
Carteret
Carteret
Stawell
Stawell
Griffin
Griffin
Butler
dit.
of
Weston
Thompson
Haversham
Vane
Barnard
Gower
Gower
Conway
Conway
Hervey
Hervey
Boyle
Boyle
Hay
Hay
Windsor
Montjoy
Mansel
Mansel
Willoughby
Middleton
Trevor
Trevor
Masham
Masham
Foley
Foley
Bathurst
Bathurst
Onslow
Onslow
Marsham
Romney
Cadogan
Cadogan
Moreton
Ducie
Walpole
Walpole
King
King
Hobart
Hobart
Monson
Monson
Coke
Lovel
Raymond
Raymond
Yorke
Hardwicke
Talbot
Hensol
Murray
Strange
Bromley
Montfort
Howe
Chedworth
Fox
Ilchester.
PEERESSES.
Schulemburgh
Duchess of
Kendal
Schulemburgh
Countess of
Walsingham
Carteret
Countess of
Granville
Coningsby
Countess of
Coningsby
Walmoden
Countess of
Yarmouth
—
L.
Berners
Johnson
L.
Wentworth.
There are Two Archbishopricks, and Twenty-four Bishopricks; the Bishops whereof are Lords of Parliament.
The
Archbishopricks
are
CANTERBURY
and
YORK.
The
Bishopricks,
London
Durham
Winchester
Worcester
Bath
and
Wells
Lincoln
Rochester
Hereford
Litchfield
and
Coventry
Exeter
Peterborough
Chester
Chichester
Sarum
St. Davids
Ely
Carlisle
Gloucester
Oxford
St. Asaph
Norwich
Bangor
Bristol
Llandaff
A LIST of the
PEERAGE
of
Scotland.
His Royal Highness FREDERICK Duke of
Rothsay, Edinburgh,
&c. Prince Royal of
Great Britain.
DUKES.
Names
Titles
Hamilton
Hamilton
Scot
Buccleugh
Lenox
Ditto
Gordon
Gordon
Dowglass
Queensbury
Campbell
Argyll
Dowglass
Ditto
Murray
Atholl
Graham
Montrose
Ker
Roxburgh.
MARQUISES.
Hay
Tweedale
Ker
Lothian
Johnston
Annandale.
EARLS.
Lindsay
Crawford
Hay
Errol
Sutherland
Ditto
Lesley
Rothes
Dowglass
Morton
Erskine
Buchan.
Cuningham
Glencairn
Kennedy
Cassils
Sinclair
Caithness
Stewart
Murray
Levingston
Linlithgow
Hume
Ditto
Drummond
Perth
Fleming
Wigton
Lyon
Strathmore
Hamilton
Abercorn
Erskine
Kellie
Hamilton
Haddington
Stuart
Galloway
Maitland
Lauderdale
Hay
Kinnoul
Campbell
Loudon
Creighton
Dumfries
Alexander
Stirling
Bruce
Elgin
Carnagie
Southesk
Stewart
Traquair
Ker
Ancram
Weemys
Ditto
Ramsay
Dalhousie
Ogilvie
Airley
Ogilvie
Finlater,
&c.
Lesley
Leven,
&c.
Hamilton
Selkirk
Carnegie
Northesk
Bruce
Kincardine
Lindsay
Balcarras
Middleton
Ditto
Gordon
Aboyn
Boyd
Kilmarnock
Cochran
Dundonald
Dowglass
Dunbarton
Keith
Kintore
Campbell
Braidalbine
Gordon
Aberdeen
Murray
Dunmore
Hamilton
Orkney
Hamilton
Rutherglen
Dowglass
March
Hume
Marchmont
Carmichael
Hyndford
Mackenzie
Cromarty
Dalrymple
Stair
Primrose
Roseberry
Stewart
Bute
Hope
Hoptoun
Boyle
Glasgow
Scot
Deloraine
Campbell
Islay
Collier
Portmore.
VISCOUNTS.
Carey
Falkland
Murray
Stormont
Arbuthnot
Arbuthnot
Seton
Kingston
Mackgil
Oxenford
Ingram
Irwin
Levingston
Kilsyth
Osburn
Dumblain
Drummond
Strathallan
Graham
Preston
Graham
Dundee
Primrose
Ditto
Crawford
Garnock.
LORDS.
Forbes
Ditto.
Frazer
Salton
Gray
Ditto
Cathcart
Ditto
Sinclair
Ditto
Dowglass
Mordington
Semple
Ditto,
&c.
Somerville
Ditto
Elphingston
Ditto
Oliphant
Ditto
Montgomery
Lisle
Frazer
Lovat
Ross
Ditto
Sandilands
Forpichen
Lesley
Lindores
Bothwell
Holyroodho.
Elphingston
Balmerino
Stuart
Blantyre
Balfour
Burleigh
Cranston
Ditto
Napier
Ditto
Richardson
Cromond
Fairfax
Cameron
Mackay
Rae
Forrester
Ditto
Forbes
Pitsligo
Macclelland
Kirccudbright
Hamilton
Bargeney
Ogilvie
Bamf
Murray
Elibank
Galloway
Dunkeld
Ashton
Ditto
Falkner
Halkerton
Hamilton
Belhaven
Rollo
Ditto
Colvil
Ditto
Rutherford
Ditto
Bellendon
Ditto
Lesley
Newark
Kinnaird
Ditto.
Titles lately extinct, forfeited, or immerged in other Families,
&c.
EARLS: Airth, Monteith, Dumfermling, Forfar, Callendar, Newburgh, Mareschal, Carnwarth, Nithisdale, Seaforth, Panmure, Winton.
VISCOUNTS: Dunbar, Frendraught, Newhaven, Kenmure.
LORDS: Orchiltree, Borthwick, Frazer, Cowper, Abercromby, Ruthven, Materdei, Macdonald, Aymouth, Nairn, Dingwall, Duffus.
By the Articles of Union, all the
English
of the same Degree, at the Time of the Union, are to have Rank and Precedency before all the
Scots
of the like Order and Degree at the Time of the Union; but the present Peers of
Scotland
are to have Precedency before all Peers of
Great Britain
of the like Order and Degree, who may be created after the Union.
BISHOPRICKS before the REVOLUTION. Archbishopricks of
St. Andrews
and
Glasgow.
Edinburgh,
Bishoprick
Galloway
Dunkeld
Ross
Aberdeen
Orkney
Caithness,
Bishoprick
The Isles
Dumblane
Brechin
Murray
Lissimore,
or
Argyll.
A LIST of the
English
Shires, Cities, and Boroughs, which return Members to Parliament.
BEDFORDSHIRE 4.
Bedford
BERKSHIRE 9.
New Windsor
Reading
Wallingford
Abingdon
BUCKS,
County
14.
Buckingham
Cheping Wicomb
Aylesbury
Agmondesham
Wendover
Great Marlow
CAMBRIDGESHIRE 6.
University
Town of
Cambr.
CHESHIRE 4.
Cheshire
CORNWALL 44.
Launceston
Leskard
Lestwithiel
Truro
Bodmyn
Helston
Saltash
Camelford
Westlow
Grampound
Eastlow
Penryn
Tregony
Bossiney
St. Ives
Fowey
St. Germans
St. Michael
Newport
St. Maws
Kellington
CUMBERLAND 6.
Carlisle
Cockermouth
DERBYSHIRE 4.
Derby
Town
DEVONSHIRE 26.
Exeter
Totness
Plymouth
Oakhampton
Barnstaple
Plympton
Honiton
Tavistock
Ashburton
Dartmouth
Beeralston
Tiverton
DORSETSHIRE 20.
Pool
Dorchester
Lyme Regis
Weymouth
Melcomb Regis
Bridport
Shaftsbury
Wareham
Corf-castle
DURHAM
County
4.
City of
Durham
ESSEX
County
8.
Colchester
Malden
Harwich
GLOUCESTERSHIRE 8.
Gloucester
Cirencester
Tewksbury
HEREFORDSHIRE 8.
Hereford
Leominster
Weobley
HERTFORDSHIRE 6.
St. Albans
Hertford
HUNTINGDONSHIRE 4.
Huntingdon
KENT
County
10.
Canterbury
Rochester
Maidstone
Queenborough
LANCASTER
County
14.
Lancaster
Preston
Newton
Wygan
Clitheroe
Liverpoole
LEICESTERSHIRE 4.
Leicester
LINCOLNSHIRE 12.
Lincoln
Boston
Great Grimsby
Stamford
Grantham
MIDDLESEX 8.
London, 4.
Westminster
MONMOUTHSHIRE 3.
Monmouth 1.
NORFOLK 12.
Norwich
Lynn Regis
Great Yarmouth
Thetford
Castle-Rising
NORTHAMPTONSH. 9.
Peterborough
Northampton
Brackley
Higham Ferrers, 1.
NORTHUMBERLAND 8.
Newcastle
on
Tyne
Morpeth
Berwick
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE 8.
Nottingham
East Redford
Newark
OXFORDSHIRE 9.
University
Oxford
City
Woodstock
Banbury, 1.
RUTLAND
County
2.
 
SALOP
County
12.
Shrewsbury
Bridgnorth
Ludlow
Wenlock
Bishop's Castle
SOMERSETSHIRE 18.
Bristol
Bath
Wells
Bridgwater
Minehead
Ivelchester
Milburn Port
SOUTHAMPTON
Cou.
26.
Winchester
Southampton
Portsmouth
Yarmouth
Petersfield
Newport
Stockbridge
Newtoune
Christ-church
Lymington
Whitchurch
Andover
STAFFORDSHIRE 10.
Litchfield
Stafford
Newcastle
Tamworth
SUFFOLK
County
16.
Ipswich
Dunwich
Orford
Alborough
Sudbury
Eye
Berry
SURREY
County
14.
Guilford
Southwark
Blechingley
Ryegate
Gatton
Haslemere
SUSSEX 20.
Chichester
Horsham
Midhurst
Lewes
Shoreham
Bramber
Steyning
East Grinstead
Arundel
WARWICKSHIRE 6.
Coventry
Warwick
WESTMORLAND 4.
Apulby
WILTSHIRE 34.
New Sarum
Wilton
Downton
Hindon
Heytesbury
Westbury
Calne
Devizes
Chippenham
Malmsbury
Crichlade
Great Bedwin
Lurgershall
Old Sarum
Wotton Basset
Marlborough
WORCESTERSHIRE 9.
Worcester
Droitwych
Evesham
Bewdley, 1.
YORKSHIRE 30.
York
Kingston
on
Hull
Knaresborough
Scarborough
Rippon
Richmond
Heydon
Boroughbridge
Malton
Thirske
Aldborough
Beverley
Northallerton
Pontefract
CINQUE PORTS 16.
Hastings
Dover
Sandwich
Hythe
Romney
Rye
Winchelsea
Seaford
WALES 24.
One for each of the following Counties and Towns.
ANGLESEY
County.
Beaumaris
BRECONSHIRE.
Brecon
CAERMARTHENSHIRE.
Caermarthen
CAERNARVONSHIRE.
Caernarvon
CARDIGANSHIRE.
Cardigan
DENBIGHSHIRE.
Denbigh
FLINTSHIRE.
Flint
GLAMORGANSHIRE.
Cardiffe
MERIONETHSHIRE.
Merioneth
MONTGOMERYSHIRE.
Montgomery
PEMBROKESHIRE.
Haverford West
Pembroke
RADNORSHIRE.
Radnor
A LIST of the Shires and Burghs that are privileged by the Union to return Members to the
British
Parliament, for representing this Northern Part of the Island of
Great Britain.
1. THE Shire of
Aberdeen.
2. The Shire of
Aire.
3. District of Burghs of
Aire, Irvin, Rothsay, Inverary,
and
Campbel
Town.
4. Shire of
Argyll.
5. Shire of
Bamff.
6. District of Burghs of
Bamff, Elgin, Cullen, Kintore,
and
Inverury.
7. Shire of
Berwick.
8. Shire of
Bute.
9. Shire of
Clackmannan.
10. Shire of
Dumbarton.
11. Shire of
Dumfries.
12. Shire of
Edinburgh.
13. City of
Edinburgh.
14. Shire of
Elgin.
15. District of Burghs of
Forress, Inverness, Nairn,
and
Fortrose.
16. Shire of
Fife.
17. District of Burghs of
Pittenweem, Anstruther Easter, Anstruther Wester, Craile
and
Kilrennie.
18. District of Burghs of
Inverkeithen, Sterline, Dumferline, Culross,
and
Queensberry.
19. District of Burghs of
Bruntisland, Dysert, Kirkaldie,
and
Kinghorns.
20. Shire of
Forfar.
21. District of Burghs of
Dundee, Perth, St. Andrews, Cowpar,
and
Forfar.
22. District of Burghs of
Montrose, Aberdeen, Brochine, Aberbrothock,
and
Inverbervy.
23. Shire of
Haddington.
24. Shire of
Inverness.
25. Shire of
Kincardine.
26. Stewartry of
Kirccudbright.
27. District of Burghs of
Kirccudbright, Dumfreis, Lockmaban, Annan,
and
Sanquhar.
28. Shire of
Lanerk.
29. District of Burghs of
Lanerk, Linlithgow, Selkirk,
and
Peebles.
30. Shire of
Linlithgow.
31. Shire of
Nairn.
32. Stewartry of
Orkney,
and
Zetland.
33. Shire of
Peebles.
34. Shire of
Perth.
35. Shire of
Renfrew.
36. District of Burghs of
Renfrew, Glasgow, Ruglen,
and
Dumbarton.
37. Shire of
Ross.
38. District of Burghs of
Dingwall, Tain, Dornock, Weick,
and
Kirkwall.
39. Shire of
Roxburgh.
40. District of Burghs of
Jedburgh, Haddington, Dunbar, North Berwick,
and
Lauder.
41. Shire of
Selkirk.
42. Shire of
Sterlin.
43. Shire of
Sutherland.
44. Shire of
Wigtoun.
45. District of Burghs of
Wigtoun, Whithorn, New Galloway,
and
Stranrayer.
Representatives for
England
473
For the Cinqueports
16
For
Wales
24
 
513
To which add, for
Scotland
45
The Whole will be
558
The END of VOL. IV.
INDEX TO THE FOURTH VOLUME.
A
ABer,
Lake of,
Pag. 204, 209, 218
Aberbrothock 182, 183
Abercorn
Castle
136
Aberdeen 185
to
191
Aberdour 149, 150
Aberlady 59
Abernethy 151
Achaius,
King, founds the Order of the Thistle
27
Acts of Parliament
relating to
Scotland 31
so
39
St.
Adrian
's Shrine
161, 297
Agricola, Julius,
fixes the Bounds of the
Roman
Empire in
Britain 177, 178
Ailzye,
Island
55, 233, 254
Aire,
River
108, 109
Aire,
Town
108
to
110
Albania 222
Alexander III.
routs
Acho,
King of
Norway 108, 113.
Makes
Innerbervy
a Royal Burgh
p. 184
Alexander Steuart,
Earl of
Mar 193
Alexander VI.
Pope, grants large Privileges to the
King's College
at
Aberdeen 186
Allan,
River
172
Alloway, 122, 131, 132, 173
Alnwick 44
Alserig 208
Alsvig,
Isle
263
Amber,
a great Piece of it
195
Andrew,
the tutelar Saint, his Order
27
St.
Andrews 150, 162
to
168
Annan,
River
97
Annand 98
Annandale,
Marquis of, his Seat
95
Anne,
Queen, revives the Order of the Thistle
27, 28.
Restores the Green Ribband
p. 135
Anstruther,
Wester and Easter
150, 161
Aquinas, Thomas 46
Arbuthie 184
Ardmeanach 217
Ardock 171, 225
Argyll,
Duke of, defeats the Earl of
Mar 172.
His Rights
233
Argyll,
Earl of, defeated
226
Argyll,
its Dimension
231, 232
Arnold,
Bishop
164
Arran,
Earl of
234
Arran,
Isle ibid.
Arthur
's Oven
136
Arthur
's Seat
88.
Fatal Accident which befel a Soldier there
93
Athol,
Duke of, his Seat.
176.
Opposes the Union
221.
His Power
222.
And Grandeur
223
Atlantick
Ocean
214
Aven,
River
125
Augustus Fort 220
A
ona 254
Ay,
River
44
Aymouth 45
Ayton 44
B
Balcanqual,
Dr. his Hospital
75
Balfour,
Sir
Andrew 74, 167
Balgony p. 150, 168
Balmerinoch
Monastery
168
Baltair 148
Bamf 193, 194
Banco,
the Thane, his History
219
Bannockbury
Water
129
Barclay,
Dr.
William 187
Barnacles 288, 289
Barra,
Isle
264
Bass,
Rock
55
Beacon,
Rock
50
Bean-castle 201
Beaulieu 217
Beilhaven 57
Belvenie 194
Benbecula,
Isle
265
Benedict XIII.
Pope, grants Immunities to the University of
St. Andrews 165, 166
Bernera,
Isles
255, 256, 270, 272
Berth 169
Berwick 42, 43
Bethune,
Archbishop
166, 167
Bethune,
Cardinal, his Cruelty, and bloody End
164
Birking,
Island
268
Black Book
of
Paisley 114
Blackness-castle 95
Blair-castle 222
Blair Drummond 224
Boetius, Hector,
the Historian
181
Bogy,
River
190
Bohemian Protest,
where lodged
79
Bon-accord 185
Borera,
Isle
267, 275
Borrow-town-ness p. 96
Borwe 207
Bot
well,
Queen
Mary
's Favourite
151
Bowling-head 267
Boyne 194
Braan
Water
208
Brago 268
Braidalbin 222, 224, 226
Brasa,
Isle
296
Brassa
's Sound
295, 296
Brechin 183, 224
Brochty-craig 181
Brodich-castle 234
Brora,
Isle
235
Broxmouth 50
Bruce,
Sir
John Hope 152
Bruce,
Sir
William,
the Architect
87, 152, 153
Bruntisland 50, 154
Buccleugh,
Duke of, his House
144
Buchan
County
192, 196
Buchanan,
his Skull,
73.
His Malice
88.
Where educated
118.
His Character
230
Buchanan-castle 228
Buchanness 192, 195
Buckhaven 160
Burleigh,
Master of
147
Burra,
Isle
284
Burray,
Isle
296
Bute,
Earl of
234
Bute,
Isle
233, 234
Byng,
Sir
George,
Admiral
182
C
Caddel-castle 198
Caithness p. 196, 205, 208, 209
Caledonia p. 146
Calendar-house 126
Cambuskenneth
Abbey
133
Cameron,
where educated
118
Cameronians,
what
55
Campbell, Daniel,
Esq
123, 124
Campbell
Family
226, 227, 232
Campbel-town 231, 232
Camus
's Cross
183
Candida Casa 106
Canney,
Isle
260
Cantyre,
Mull of
233
Cardan,
the Physician
162
Carlavrok-castle 100
Carrick 107
Carron,
River
128, 133, 208
Carse
of
Gowry 179
Cart,
River
114
Cary,
Isle
255
Cassils,
Earl of
166
Cassils,
Earls of
107
Castle-William 219
Cattle,
in
Scotland 11
Cava,
Isle
285
Chancery
of
Ross 217
Chandos, James
Duke of
167
Charles I.
advances to the Borders of
Scotland 47.
Holds a Parliament at
St. Andrews 167.
His Brass Statue
172.
Promotes the Fishing Trade
300
Charles II.
ill-treated by the Covenanters
148.
Promotes the Fishing Trade
300
Charmel-root,
its Virtue against Drunkenness
p. 257
Christian
Religion, where little known
216
Clackmanan 171
Clackmananshire 174
Claik
Geese
288, 289
Clan Chattau 151, 199
Clan Macduff
's Cross
151
Clasterniss 268
Clyde,
Firth of
105, 107, 111, 114, 115, 116, 117, 125, 126, 136, 229, 230, 231, 233, 234
Clydsdale 137
Coal-pits 155
Cobberspath 48
Cobles,
what
59
Cockburnspath 48
Cockenny 58, 59
Coil field 108
Coil,
River ibid.
Coldingham
Monastery
45
Coldingham
Moor ibid.
Coldstream 47
Colk,
the Fowl
271
Coll,
Isle
259
St.
Colm
's
Inch,
or Isle
299
Colonsa,
Isle
256
St.
Columbus
's Isle
258, 259.
His Lake
261
Combat
between an
Englishman
and
Highlander 227
Connel,
River
207
Convention
of Burghs, what
49
Coppingsha,
Isle
287
Coulterneb,
the Fowl
263
Cowpar 150, 168
Cows,
how ferried over the
Kyle 261
Crail p. 150, 161
Cramond 94
Crawford,
Earl of
125
Crawford Linsey
ibid.
Crawford-Moor 126, 138
Cromarty,
Earl of
207
Cromarty
Firth
189, 207
Cromarty,
Shire and Burgh
207
Cromwell, Oliver,
his notable Victory
51.
Builds a Castle at
Leith 93, 94.
A Citadel at
Aire 110.
His Conduct in
Scotland 178.
Storms
Dundee 180.
Builds a Citadel at
Inverness 201.
A Fort at
Pomona 285
Cullen 194
Culross 174
Cumbray
Islands
234, 254
Cumin, William,
Earl of
Buchan 194
Cunningham 111
Cunningham
Family
113
D
Dalkeith 144
Damsey,
Isle
287
Darnley,
Lord, his Body found
88.
Murder'd
229
David I.
founds
Holy-rood-house 86.
Incorporates the City of
St. Andrews 168.
Makes
Brechin
an Episcopal See
183
Debateable Land,
what
43
Dee,
River
105, 185, 186 188
Deer,
Ahbey of
194
Deer,
in
Scotland p. 11
Deersound 286
Dirleton 57
Diving,
Experiments made of that Engine
234
to
236
Dogs,
Massacre of them
90
Don,
River
185, 188
Donald V.
his various Fortune
22
Donald of the Isles,
defeated
193
Dornoch 205
Dovern,
River
190,
94
Dowglas 125
Dowglas,
Family
138, 141, 151
Dowglas,
Lord, killed
141
Dowglas,
River
138
Dowhirta,
Isle
257, 273
Downs,
Lord,
299
Druidess,
the House of one
275
Druids,
their Houses
262, 275.
A Temple of theirs
268, 269
Drumelzier 139
Drumlanrick 101, 102
to
104
Drummond-castle 226
Drumond,
his Macaronick Poem
161
Duart
Bay and Castle
257
Duff,
King, his Body found
193
Duffus 150
Duffus,
Lord
207
Dumbarton 129, 130
Dumblain 172
Dumfermling p. 147, 150
Dumfries 99
to
102
Dumfriesshire,
its Division
97
Dun,
River
107, 109
Dunbar,
Bishop
Gawin 188
Dunbar, George de,
proscribed
48
Dunbar,
Town
49, 50
Dunbarton 230, 231
Dunbriton
Firth
126
Dundee,
Lord Viscount, killed
176, 181
Dundee,
Town and Harbour
179
to
181
Dundonald,
Earl of, his Benefaction
118
Dune,
Dr.
187
Dunglass 48
Dungsby-head 196, 210, 211, 214
Dunhill 51
Dunipace 134
Dunkeild 176, 177, 222
Dunoter-castle 183, 184
Dunrobin-castle 206
Duns Scotus, John 46
Duns,
Town and Castle
46, 67
Dunstafage-castle 232
Dunter,
the Fowl
298
Duplin-castle 223, 224
Dwarfy Stone 284
Dysart 150, 155, 156
E
Eagles,
great Numbers of them
205.
Two remarkable ones
269, 270.
Two others
275
Easter-Wemys 160
East-Lothian
described
p. 48
Ebba,
Lady Abbess, her Story
45, 46
St.
Ebbe
's Head
46
Eccles 47
Edgar Atheling
flies into
Scotland 22
Edgar,
King of
Scotland,
builds a Monastery
45
Edinburgh 62
to
89
Edward I.
his barbarous Treachery
109.
Removes the wooden Chair and prophetick Stone to
Westminster 175.
His Exploits in
Scotland 178
Edward II.
his Cruelty
58.
Utterly overthrown
129, 178
Edward VI.
his Treaty of Marriage
62
Egg,
Isle
260
Eglington-castle 113
Eglisha,
Isle
287
Elgin 193, 196, 198, 199, 200
Elizabeth,
Queen, supports the
Scotish
Reformers
45
Elizabeth,
Queen of
Bohemia,
where born
148
Elphiston,
Bishop
186
Ely 150, 160
Enconel-castle 232
Eousmil,
Isle
266
Ereskine
Families
133
Erigena 109
Ermengred,
Queen
168
Ern,
River
223, 225
Ern,
Valley of
222
Errick-stone 137
Errol,
Earl of
177, 192
Ersilton p. 47
Erskine,
Earl of
Mar 190 192
Esk,
River
60, 97, 98
Eubo 206
Eugie,
Water of
192
Eymouth 45
F
Faira,
Isle
285
Fair-isle 210, 211, 293
Falkirk 126
Falkland 150
Families,
their Confusion
47
Farrar,
River
217, 218
Farro-head 214
Fast-castle 46
Fergus I.
his Victory
108
Fergus
Lake ibid.
Fife 52, 146
Fifeness 162, 195
Findorn,
River
198
Firth,
River
64, 94, 95, 149, 155, 160, 162, 174, 175
Fir-trees,
many planted in
Scotland 52.
Vast Woods of them
214
Fisheries,
in
Scotland 6
to
11
Fisher-raw 59
Flada,
Isle
254, 263
Fleurs 142
Florida,
a Ship, belonging to the
Spanish Armada,
lost, and discovered
235, 238
Flotta,
Isle
285
Forbes
Lord
Forbes,
and
Forbes
Lord
Pitsligo 192
Fordun
's
Scotish
History
p. 166, 185
Fordun,
Town
184, 185
Forfar,
Lord, kill'd
138
Forfar,
Town
183
Forfichan 136
Forress 198
Forth,
River
49, 54, 55, 57, 115, 122, 131, 132, 146, 149, 154, 161, 173, 297
Foula,
Isle
296
Fowl,
in
Scotland 12
Francis II.
marries Queen
Mary 62
Frazer,
Dr.
186
Frazer
Family
139, 192
Frazersburgh 192, 193, 194
French
Fleet driven to
Montrose
Port
182
Fullerton
Family
234
Fulmar,
the Bird
275, 276
Fyfus 150
G
Galloway 101, 104, 105, 106, 107
Galloway
Horses
106
Garioch 193
Garrow 209, 210
Garve,
Isle
270
Genen-hill 139
George I.
confirms the Statutes relating to the Order of the Thistle
28.
His Forces, how imploy'd in
Scotland 178
George II.
his Gift to the Assembly of
Scotland 217
George,
Earl Marshal
187
Gicht,
Bog of
p. 193
Gigaia,
Isle
254
Gillekranky 227
Glames
Palace
171, 172
Glasgow 116
to
124
Glenco 219
Glenelebeg 217
Glenlion 225
Glenluce,
Bay of
106
Gleurquhart 233
Goats,
in
Scotland 11
Golden
Cave
262
Good-speed-all 59, 60
Goodtrees 64
Gordon,
Duke of, his Castle and Family
190, 192, 193, 194
Gospatrick,
Earl of
Northumberland
and
March 47
Government,
Civil, of
Scotland 28
to
31
Government,
Ecclesiastical, of
Scotland 23
to
26
Gowrock 114
Graham
's Dyke
126
Graham
's Hall
286
Grain,
in
Scotland 15
Grampian Hills 177, 222, 229
Gransey,
Isle
285
Great Bear,
its Tail, where seen
213
Great Rule,
Isle
296
Greenlow 46
Greenock 114
Gregory,
King, the Great, his Success against the
English 22
Gregory,
Mr.
James,
Professor of Mathematicks
167
Gull,
the Fowl
298
H
Haddingtoun p. 53
Haddo,
Laird of, beheaded
67
Hales 57
Hamilton 124, 125
Hamilton,
Archbishop
164
Hamilton,
Duke of
234
Mrs.
Hare,
her Benefaction
75
Harlow,
bloody Battle there
193
Harries 267, 271, 272
Hassiness 267
Hawks,
the best
205
Hawthornden 95
Hay,
Earl of
230
Hay,
great Slaughter of that Family
224
Hay,
the Peasnnt, and his Two Sons, their remarkable Valour
177
Haymouth 45
Hebrides 253
Hepburn, Adam,
Bishop
292, 223
Hepburne, John,
Prior of
St. Andrews 166
Hergust,
King of the
Picts 165
Hermatra,
Isle
273
Herrings,
great Quantities, how taken
215
Highlanders 20, 21.
Their military Glory falsly transferred to the
Irish 227, 228
Hirta,
Isle
273
Hogs,
in
Scotland 11
Holy Isle 234
Holy Wood p. 101
Hopton-house 95
Horn
taken out of a Woman's Head
73, 74
Horses,
in
Scotland 11, 12
Hounam 141
Hoy,
Isle
283
Hume 47
Huntingtour 222
Huntley,
Marquis of
194
I
James I.
confirms the University of St.
Andrew
's Privileges
166
James II.
founds the University of
Glasgow 117.
Kill'd
141.
Makes the
Campbells
Earls of
Argyll 232
James III.
murder'd
129.
His Minions hang'd
143
James IV.
his fine Palaces
150.
Takes upon himself the Patronage of
King's-College 186
James V.
his Character
27.
His Body found
88.
Restores the Order of St.
Andrew,
&c.
134, 135.
His several Seats
150
James VI.
unites the Crowns
42.
His Conference with the Laird of
Lawder 56, 57.
Founds the publick Schools at
Edinburgh 72.
Improves
Glasgow
University
118.
Repairs the Palace of
Linlithgow 134.
His Brass Statue
172.
Creates the Earl of
Strathbogy
Marquis of
Huntley p. 190
James VII.
signs Statutes for the Order of the
Thistle 27.
Adorns
Holy-rood-house
for the Knights
88, 165.
Changes the Green Ribband to Blue
135.
His Residence in
Scotland 153.
His Brass Statue
172.
His Esteem for the Earl of
Perth 226.
Complimented ibid.
Jed,
River
141
Jedburgh 141, 142
Ila,
Isle
256
Impostor
in the Isle of
St. Kilda 274
Inchdavanan,
Isle
228
Inchgarvy,
Isle
299
Inchkeith,
Isle
298, 299
Inchmurin,
Isle
228
Inchnolaig,
Isle ibid.
Inchonnaugan,
Isle ibid.
Incurables,
Hospital designed for them
76, 77
Infirmary,
Royal
75, 76
Inglestown 94
Innerary,
Shire of
231
Innerbervy 184
Innerkeithin 146, 147, 150
Innerkeithin
Harbour
149
Innerlochy 220
Innerness
ibid.
Innerury 193
Inverary 190
Inveresk 60
Inverlochy 219
Inverness 189, 197, 201
to
204
John à Grot
's House
p. 212
Johnston 169
St. Johnston 223
Iron,
Filings of it, why hot, when held in the Hand
236
Irs
Language
217
Irvin,
River
109, 110
Irvin,
Town
110, 111
Islands
of
Scotland 205
Jura,
Isle
255
K
Kebercurnig 136
Keith,
Earl Marshal, his Exploits
183
Keith,
Earl Marshal, and the General, his Brother, in the
Russian
Service
184
Keith,
Family
192, 299
Keith,
River
224
Keith,
the Village
193
Kelso 142
Kennedy, James,
Bishop of
St. Andrews 166
Kenneth,
King, his Victory over the
Picts 175, 176
Kenneth II. 150
Ker,
Abbot, turns Protestant
143
Kermes-castle 233, 234
Kerniberg,
Isle
259
Kerston 286
St.
Kilda 268, 273
to
275
Kildrummy 192
Kildun-castle 218
Kill-ri-mount 165
Kilmaers 113
Kilmarnock-castle
ibid.
Kilmaronoch,
Isle
228
Kilrinny p. 150
Kilsyth 126
Kincairn,
Earls of, their Seat
174
Kincardin 184
Kincardin-castle 225
Kincase 110
Kinghorn 150, 155
Kinloss,
Monastery of
193, 198
Kinnoul,
Earl of
223
Kinross 150, 151
Kinross-house 152, 153
Kintail 217
Kintore,
Earl of
190
Kintyre 231
Kips 136
Kirkaldy 92, 93, 150, 155
Kirkcudbright 104
Kirkentilloch 118
Kirk Michael 234
Kirkwall 285, 286, 288, 292
Kirsop
Town and River
98
Kismul,
Isle
264
Kittawaax,
the Fowl
298
Kneapdale 232
Knug,
the Bird
205
Kyle 108
L
Lady
Isle
113
Lakes
in
Scotland 4, 5
Lambermoor 48
Lambertoun,
Bishop
164
Lamlash 234
Lanark 137
Language
of
Scotland 21, 22, 23
Largis 113
Lauder,
River
p. 142
Lauder,
Town
143
Lauderdale 142
Lauderfort 143
Lawder,
Laird of, his Answer to
James VI. 56, 57
Lead
Mines
138
Leith,
River
65, 93, 94
Leith
Town ibid.
Lenox 229
Lenox,
Earls and Dukes of
229, 230
Lermouth,
the Poet
47
Lerwick 295
Lesley,
General
46, 51, 168
Lessly 150, 153, 154
Leven,
Earl of
168
Leven,
River
151, 153, 160, 168, 229, 230
Levinsmouth 150
Lewes,
Isle
267, 268, 269, 272
Libertoun 64
Lindsay,
great Slaughter of that Family
224
Linen
Manufacture
1
4
Lingay,
Isle
267
Links,
Downs so called
162
Linlithgow 134
to
136
Lismore,
Isle
255
Lochaber 218, 219
Lochbrien 217
Lochbruist 256
Lochearlvay 268, 270
Lochcolmkil 268
Locheport 266
Lochern 22
Lochew 217, 2
Lochfinlagan 25
Lochfyn 232, 2
Lochgenen p. 139
Lochleffan 258
Lochlochy 218
Lochlomond 204, 228, 229
Lochmaddes 266
Lochmoy 199
Lochnavern 207
Lochness 218
Lochrain 106
Lochrona 266
Lochsefort 268
Lochskin 205
Lochstornvay 268
Lochyol 207, 218
Lochmabern,
Town and Castle
98
Lomons,
Mountains
175
Lorn 232
Lossie,
River
197, 198, 199
Lothian,
Marquis of
143
Loudon-castle 113
Lough Leven 151
Lough Tay 169
Lowlanders 21
Lowland-house 133
Lyer,
the Fowl
282, 284
M.
Macbeth
murders
Banco 219
Macdonald,
King of the Isles
256, 262
Macduff,
his Familys Privileges
151
Macfarlan,
Laird of, his Seat
228
Mackenzie,
his Bravery
108, 109
Mackenzie,
Sir
George, p. 167
Mackintosh,
Laird of, his Seat
199
Macleod,
Laird of
273
Mac Lewis
Family
234
Macrain,
his long Life
255
Magdalen,
Consort of
James V. 162
Magdalene
of
Valois,
Queen, her Body found
88
St.
Magnus 285
Main-land 285, 293
Maitland
Family
142, 143
Malcolm Canmore,
King
47
Malcolm Mac Kenneth,
King, Monument of his Victory
198
Malcolm II. 150, 299,
Beats the
Danes,
&c.
183
Malcolm III.
rewards the
English 22.
His Monument
148
Man,
Isle of
253
Manufactures,
Linen and Woollen in
Scotland 12, 13, 14, 54
Mar,
Earl of, his Seats
130, 131, 173.
Defeated
172
March,
the several Earls of
47, 48
Margaret,
Princess, married to
Malcolm III. 22
St.
Margaret
's Bay
149
Mariners,
antient, their Mistake
212
Marlborough,
Duke of, his Title of Baron
45
Mary,
Queen, escapes to
France 62.
Defeated
115.
Confined by the Reformers
151.
Falsly accused of Lord
Darnley
's Murder
229.
Makes that Lord Duke of
Rothsay 234.
Builds a Fort at
Inchkeith 298
Mary
of
Gueldres,
Queen, builds a Collegiate Church
75
Mary-burgh 219
Maulsburgh 181
Mauls Mitre 137
May,
Isle of
161, 195, 297, 298
May-bole 107
Melross
Abbey
140, 141
Melvil 150, 168
Merlin,
where bury'd
139
Mernock,
Isle of
254
Merns 184
Mid-land
of
Scotland 204
Mid-Lothian 143
Moffet 98
St.
Monan
's
150
Monteith 229
Montrose,
Duke of
119
Montrose,
Marquis of, defeats the Covenanters
126.
Put to Death
225
Montrose,
Town and Port
181, 182
Mordington 43
Mordington,
Lord ibid.
Morison,
Dr. the Botanist
78
Morton,
Earl of, beheaded
140, 144.
His Palace
150
Morton,
the present Earl of, his Seat
p. 149
Mountains,
in
Scotland 15, 16
Muck,
Isle
260
Mull,
Isle
257
St.
Mungo 118
Murray 196, 197
Murray,
Brae of
199
Murray,
Earl of, his Murder and Character
135
Murray,
Firth
189, 196, 200, 218
Murray,
Sir
Robert 167
Muscovite
Embassador shipwreck'd
195, 196
Musselburgh 59, 60, 62
N.
Nachastel,
Isle
228
Nairn,
Shire, Town, and River
198, 205, 206
Napier,
Lord
167
Ness,
River
201, 202, 204, 205, 207, 208, 209, 213
New-bigging 59, 60
Newbottle
Abbey
143
Newbury
on the
Tay 150
Newyards 115
Nicolas V.
Pope, his Bull
117, 118
St.
Ninian 106
Nith,
River
97, 99, 101, 102, 103
Nithsdale,
Earl of
100, 104
North-Berwick 57, 59
North-Esk,
River
144
North-Fara 288
North-Hope
Harbour
p. 283
North-land
of
Scotland 204
North-Loch 89
North-Vist,
Isle
266
O.
Oransa,
Isle
257
Orcades,
Isles
281.
The People
288, 289, 290.
Their antient Princes
290, 291.
Government
291, 292.
Religion
292
Orchil-hills 174, 225
Orkney,
Earl of, his Palace
285
Orkney
Isles
281
Ormistoun 57
P.
Pabbay,
Isle
272
Paisley 114, 115
Paldykirk 184
Palladius,
first Bishop of
Scotland
ibid.
Panmure,
Earl of, his Palace
181.
Attainted
224
Papa Stronsa,
Isle
287
Papa Westra,
Isle
288
Pavement,
an antient one
299, 300
Peebles 138, 139
Peerage
of
England 317
Peerage
of
Scotland 320
Pentland
Firth
196, 211, 212, 282
Pentland
Skerries
283
Perth,
Earl of, converts the Royal Apartments into a Popish Chapel
p. 87.
Father and Son, Earls, banished
226
Perth,
Town
169, 170, 171, 225
Peterhead 191, 192, 194
Pictland
Firth
282
Pinkey 52, 60, 61, 62
Pitcairrn,
Dr.
60.
His Character
78
Pitsligo 195
Pittenweem 150, 161
Poans,
what
229
Pollacks,
what ibid.
Pomona,
Isle
285, 286
Porpoises,
great Numbers of them
155
Porteous,
Captain, riotously murder'd
80
to
84
Port-Patrick 105
Port-Seton 59
Portus Salutis 207
Precious Stones,
&c. in
Scotland 19, 20
Preston 59
Prestonpans
ibid.
Pretender
escapes with the
French
Fleet
161, 162.
His Feats at
Perth
and
Scone 170, 171.
His short-liv'd Splendor
176.
Arrives at
Dundee 181
Prophecy
concerning the Union
139, 140
Puffin,
the Fowl
260
Pygmies,
Island of
270
Q.
Queen's-ferry 94, 146
R
Raarsay,
Isle
p. 263
Ranalsha 211
Randal
's Trench
140
Ravens,
Two remarkable ones
256
Rea,
Lord, his Seat
207
Redeloak 184
St.
Regulus
brings over St.
Andrew
's Reliques
163
Renfrew 113, 114
Rivel 99
Rivers,
in
Scotland 5
Rob Roy 220
Robert Bruce,
King
120, 190.
His first Victory
193
Robert II. 299
Robert,
Bishop of
St. Andrews 183
Rocking Stone 148, 149
Roger,
Bishop of
St. Andrews 164
Rona,
Isle
263, 270, 271
Rora-head 283
Rosa 234
Rosbin 139
Roslin 95
Rossshire 214, 216, 217
Rothes,
Earl of
151.
His Palace
153
Rothsay 233
Rouglash,
Isle
228
Round
Table, Rocks so call'd
263
Rousa,
Isle
287
Roxburgh 141
Roxburgh,
Duke of
142
Ruglen p. 125
St.
Rule,
Chapel of
165
Rum,
Isle
260
S
Sacro Bosco, Johannes de 101
Salmon,
Plenty
212, 213
Salton 59
Saltoun,
Earl of, his new Pier and Bulwark
194
Salt-pans 155
Sanda,
Isle
255
Sarvedrum Promontorium 214
Scalloway 295
Scalpa,
Isle
263
Scone 175, 176
Scot,
Sir
John 166
Scotland,
Geographical Account of it
2, 3.
Its Deficiencies
39, 40, 52, 53.
List of its Counties
41
Scott, Margaret,
remarkable Inscription on her Tomb
144, 145
Scouts,
Geese so called
56, 298
Seaforth,
Earl of
109
Seats
of the
Scotish
Nobility and Gentry
244
to
252
Seats
of the
English
Nobility and Gentry
302
to
316
Sea-ware,
its Use
48
Second Sight,
Account of it
276, 277
Sellay,
Isle
272
Seton 57, 58
Seton,
Sir
Alexander p. 58
Seymour, Edward,
Duke of
Somerset,
his Victory
62
Shapinsha,
Isle
287
Sharpe,
Archbishop, his Monument
164
Sharpe,
Sir
William
ibid.
Sheen,
Dr.
166
Sheep,
Damage sustained by Exportation of their Wool,
&c. 139.
Wild ones
213
Sheriffmuir 133, 172
Shetland
Isles
293
to
301
Shires,
&c. which return Members to Parliament
323
to
328
Shrimps,
great Quantities of them
160
Sibbald,
Sir
Robert,
his
Museum 74.
Antiquities dug up in his Yard
94
Sinclair-castle 209
Sinclair,
Earl of, and Lord ibid.
Skart,
the Fowl
298
Skye,
Isle
218, 261
Slanes,
Cave of
192
Soa,
Isle
275
Society
for Propagating Christian Knowlege in the
Highlands 236
to
243
Sodor,
Bishop of, whence so called
259
Solan
Geese, the Natural History of them
55, 56
Soldiers, English,
Advantages of their Settlement at
Inverness 201, 202
Solway
Firth
97, 98, 105
Sota-Britil,
Isle
262
Soulisker
Rock
271
Southesk,
River
p. 183
Southfara,
Isle
288
South-land
of
Scotland 204
South-Ronalsa 283
South-Vist,
Isle
265
Soutra-hill 143
Sowna 211
Spey,
River
193, 205
Spynie-castle 198
Stennis
Lake
286
Sterling-bridge 172
Stewart, James,
Regent of
Scotland 163
Stirling 129
to
133
Stonehyne 184
Storm,
a terrible one
90
to
92.
Storm of Thunder and Lightning
111
to
113
Straith-herin 199
Straithnairn 199, 200, 206, 207
Stranrawer 105
Strathave 194
Strathbogy 190, 197
Strathern 222, 223, 225
Strathmore 171, 179
Strathmore,
Earl of, kill'd in the Pretender's Service
171
Strathyla 193
Stroma 211, 282
Stronsa,
Isle
287
Sutherland 205
Sutherland,
Earl of, drives the Earl of
Mar
from
Inverness 202, 206.
His House
205
Sutherland
Family
207
Sutherland,
Mr.
James 78
Swinna,
Isle
283
T
Tantallon-castle p. 54, 55
Taransay,
Isle
273
Tarbat,
Promontory
216
Tarnaway-castle 198
Tay,
River
149, 168, 169, 170, 171, 172, 175, 177, 178, 179, 180, 195, 204, 221, 222, 223, 224, 225
Tay,
Upper
221
Tayne
Bay and Town
216
Thistle,
Order of the
27
Thread
Manufacture
155
Thrushel-stone 268
Thule
of the Antients, what Place
296, 297
Thurso 209
Tinningham 57
Tiviotdale 141
Tolard,
his Account of the
Hebrides 277
to
281
Toryburn 150
Traquair,
Earl of, his House, Character, and Misfortunes
140
St.
Tredwell
's Loch
288
Trees,
useful Hint concerning them
50, 51
Troda,
Isle
256
Tronda,
Isle
295
Tullybardin 223
Tullybardin,
Marquis of, attainted ibid.
Turnbull,
Archbishop
117
Tweed,
River
42, 43, 138, 139, 141, 142
Tweedale,
Earl of, his Taste for Gardening, and fine Park
51, 52
Tweedale
Family
p. 139
Tweedale,
Marquis of
148
Tyne,
River
53, 54
Tyre-ty,
Isle
259
V
Vatersa,
Isle
264
Venison,
Plenty of it
212
Virvedrum Promontorium 214
Union,
its Consequences
156
to
159
Unst,
Island
212
Urie 184
Vuist,
Isle
295
W
Wade,
General, his commendable Diligence
220
Wall, Severus,
or
Adrian
's
126
to
128, 231
Wallace,
Warden of
Scotland 109, 110
Walsey,
Isle
295
Wardlaw,
Bishop of
St Andrews 165
Wayes,
Isle
283
Wedderburn,
Sir
John 166
Weemys 150
Weemys
Family
151
Weich 209
Wemys,
Earl of
159, 160
Wester-Wemys 159
Westra,
Isle
288
Westwater
Lake
139
Whale
cast on Shore
94
Whitecart,
River
115
White-fish,
their Number not proportionable to the
Herrings
p. 215
Whithern 106
Wigton 104, 105
Wilford,
Sir
George 53
William,
King of
Scotland 168.
His Monument
183
William III.
King of
Great Britain,
keeps a Garison at
Inverness 202.
His Soldiers commit a barbarous Massacre
219
William
the Waster
209
Winton 57
Wirkworth 44
Wishart, George,
burnt
164
Woods,
in
Scotland p. 16, 17
Wynds,
what
63
Y
Yell,
Isle
295
Yester 51, 60, 61
Ylendoven-castle 217
Young 207
Z
Zeal,
Isle
295
Zester 51
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