Capt . DAMPIERS New Voyage to NEW HOLLAND &c. in 1699 &c.
A VOYAGE TO
New Holland,
&c. In the Year, 1699.
Wherein are described,
The
Canary
-Islands, the Isles of
Mayo
and St.
Jago.
The Bay of
All Saints,
with the Forts and Town of
Bahia
in
Brasil.
Cape
Salvadore.
The Winds on the
Brasilian
Coast.
Abrohlo
-Shoals. A Table of all the
Variations
observ'd in this Voyage. Occurrences near the Cape of
Good Hope.
The Course to
New Holland. Shark
's Bay. The Isles and Coast,
&c.
of
New Holland.
Their Inhabitants, Manners, Customs, Trade,
&c.
Their Harbours, Soil, Beasts, Birds, Fish,
&c.
Trees, Plants, Fruits,
&c.
Illustrated with several Maps and Dranghts; also divers Birds; Fishes, and Plants, not found in this part of the World, Curiously Ingraven on Copper-Plates.
VOL. III.
By Captain
William Dampier.
LONDON:
Printed for
James Knapton,
at the
Crown
in St.
Paul
's Church-yard, 1703.
To the Right Honourable THOMAS Earl of
Pembroke,
Lord President of Her Majesty's Most Honourable Privy Council,
&c.
My Lord,
THE Honour I had of being employ'd in the Service of His late Majesty
f Illustrious Memory, at the
me when Your Lordship presi
ed at the Admiralty, gives me the Boldness to ask Your Protection of the following Papers. They consist of some Remarks made upon very distant Climates, which I should have the vanity to think altogether new, cou'd I persuade my self they had escap'd Your Lordship's Knowledge. However I have been so cautious of publishing any thing in my whole Book that is generally known, that I have deny'd my self the pleasure of paying the due Honours to Your Lordships Name in the Dedication. I am asham'd, my Lord, to offer You so imperfect a Present, having not time to set down all the Memoirs of my last Voyage: But as the particular Service I have now undertaken, hinders me from finishing this Volume, so I hope it will give me an opportunity of paying my Respects to Your Lordship in a new one.
The World is apt to judge of every thing by the Success; and whoever has ill Fortune will hardly be allow'd a good Name. This, my Lord, was my Ʋ nhappiness in my late Expedition in the
Roe-Buck,
which founder'd thro' perfect Age near the Island of
Ascension.
I suffer'd extreamly in my Reputation by that Misfortune; tho' I comfort my self with the Thoughts, that my Enemies cou'd not charge any Neglect upon me. And since I have the Honour to be acquitted by Your Lordship's Judgment, I shou'd be very humble not to value my self upon so compleat a Vindication. This, and a World of other Favours, which I have been so happy as to receive from Your Lordship's Goodness, do engage me to be with an everlasting Respect,
My Lord,
Your Lordship's Most Faithful and Obedient Servant,
Will. Dampier.
THE PREFACE.
THE favourable Reception my two former Volumes of
Voyages and Descriptions
have already met with in the World, gives me Reason to hope, That notwithstanding the Objections which have been raised against me by prejudiced Persons, this
Third Volume
likewise may in some measure be acceptable to Candid and Impartial Readers, who are curious to know the Nature of the Inhabitants, Animals, Plants, Soil,
&c.
in those distant Countries, which have either seldom or not at all been visited by any
Europeans.
It has almost always been the Fate of those who have made new Discoveries, to be disesteemed and slightly spoken of, by such as either have had no true Relish and Value for the
Things themselves
that are discovered, or have had some Prejudice against
the Persons
by whom the Discoveries were made. It would be vain therefore and unreasonable in me to expect to escape the Censure of all, or to hope for better Treatment than far Worthier Persons have met with before me. But this Satisfaction I am sure of having, that the
Things themselves
in the Discovery of which I have been imployed, are most worthy of our Diligentest Search and Inquiry; being the various and wonderful Works of God in different Parts of the World: And however
unfit a Person
I may be in other respects to have undertaken this Task, yet at least I have given a faithful Account, and have found
some
Things undiscovered by any before, and which may at least be
some
Assisttance and Direction to better qualified Persons who shall come after me.
It has been Objected against me by some, that my Accounts and Descriptions of Things are dry and jejune, not filled with variety of pleasant Matter, to divert and gratify the Curious Reader. How far this is true, I must leave to the World to judge. But if I have been exactly and strictly careful to give only
True
Relations and Descriptions of Things (as I am sure I have;) and if my Descriptions be such as may be of use not only to my self (which I have already in good measure experienced) but also to others in future Voyages; and likewise to such Readers at home as are more desirous of a Plain and Just Account of the true Nature and State of the Things described, than of a Polite and Rhetorical Narrative: I hope all the Defects in my Stile, will meet with an easy and ready Pardon.
Others have taxed me with borrowing from other Men's Journals; and with Insufficiency, as if I was not my self the Author of what I write, but published Things digested and drawn up by others. As to the first Part of this Objection, I assure the Reader, I have taken nothing from any Man without mentioning his Name, except some very few Relations and particular Observations received from credible Persons who desired not to be named; and these I have always expresly distinguished in my Books, from what I relate as of my own observing. And as to the latter; I think it so far from being a Diminution to one of my Education and Employment, to have what I write, Revised and Corrected by Friends; that on the contrary, the best and most eminent Authors are not ashamed to own the same Thing, and look upon it as an Advantage.
Lastly, I know there are some who are apt to slight my Accounts and Descriptions of Things, as if it was an easie Matter and of little or no Difficulty to do all that I have done, to visit little more than the Coasts of unknown Countries, and make short and imperfect Observations of Things only near the Shore. But whoever is experienced in these Matters, or considers Things impartially, will be of a very different Opinion. And any one who is sensible, how backward and refractory the Seamen are apt to be in long Voyages when they know not whither they are going, how ignorant they are of the Nature of the Winds and the shifting Seasons of the Monsoons, and how little even the Officers themselves generally are skilled in the Variation of the Needle and the Use of the Azimuth Compass; besides the Hazard of all outward Accidents in strange and unknown Seas: Any one, I say, who is sensible of these Difficulties, will be much more pleased at the Discoveries and Observations I have been able to make, than displeased with me that I did not make more.
Thus much I thought necessary to premise in my own Vindication, against the Objections that have been made to my former Performances. But not to trouble the Reader any further with Matters of this Nature; what I have more to Offer, shall be only in relation to the following Voyage.
For the better apprehending the Course of this Voyage, and the Situation of the Places mentioned in it, I have here, as in the former Volumes, caused a Map to be Ingraven, with a prick'd Line, representing to the Eye the whole Thread of the Voyage at one View; besides Draughts and Figures of particular Places, to make the Descriptions I have given of them more intelligible and useful.
Moreover, which I had not the opportunity of doing in my former Voyages; having now had in the Ship with me a Person skill'd in Drawing, I have by this means been enabled, for the greater Satisfaction of the Curious Reader, to present him with exact Cuts and Figures of several of the principal and most remarkable of those Birds, Beasts, Fishes and Plants, which are described in the following Narrative; and also of several, which not being able to give any better or so good an Account of, as by causing them to be exactly Ingraven, the Reader will not find any further Description of them, but only that they were found in such or such particular Countries. The Plants themselves are in the Hands of the Ingenious Dr.
Woodward.
I could have caused many others to be drawn in like manner, but that I resolved to confine my Self to such only, as had some very remarkable difference in the shape of their principal Parts from any that are found in
Europe.
I have besides several Birds and Fishes ready drawn, which I could not put into the present Volume, because they were found in Countries, to the Description whereof the following Narrative does not reach. For, being obliged to prepare for another Voyage, sooner than I at first expected; I have not been able to Continue the ensuing Narrative any further than to my Departure from the Coast of
New Holland.
But, if it please God that I return again safe, the Reader may expect a Continuation of this Voyage from my departure from
New Holland,
till the foundring of my Ship near the Island of
Ascension.
In the mean time, to make the Narrative in some measure compleat, I shall here add a Summary Abstract of that latter part of the Voyage, whereof I have not had time to draw out of my Journals a full and particular Account at large. Departing therefore from the Coast of
New Holland
in the beginning of
September,
1699. (for the Reasons mentioned
Page
154.) we arrived at
Tymor, Sept.
15. and Anchored off that Island. On the 24th we obtain'd a small Supply of fresh Water from the Governor of a
Dutch
Fort and Factory there; we found also there a
Portuguese
Settlement, and were kindly treated by them. On the 3d of
December
we arrived on the Coast of
New Guinea;
where we found good fresh Water, and had Commerce with the Inhabitants of a certain Island call'd
Pulo-Sabuti.
After which, passing to the Northward, we ranged along the Coast to the Eastermost part of
New Guinea:
which I found does not join to the main Land of
New-Guinea,
but is an Island, as I have described it in my Map, and call'd it
New Britain.
It is probable this Island may afford many rich Commodities, and the Natives may be easily brought to Commerce. But the many Difficulties I at this time met with, the want of convenience to clean my Ship, the fewness of my Men, their desire to hasten home, and the danger of continuing in these Circumstances in Seas where the Shoals and Coasts were utterly unknown, and must be searched out with much Caution and length of time; hindred me from prosecuting any further at present my intended Search. What I have been able to do in this Matter for the Publick Service, will, I hope, be candidly receiv'd; and no Difficulties shall discourage me from endeavouring to promote the same End, whenever I have an opportunity put into my Hands.
May
18. in our return, we arrived again at
Tymor. June
21, we past by part of the Island
Java. July
4, we anchored in
Batavia
-Road; and I went ashore, visited the
Dutch
General, and desired the Privilege of buying Provisions that I wanted; which was granted me. In this Road we lay till the 17th of
October
following; when, having fitted the Ship, recruited my Self with Provisions, filled all my Water, and the Season of the year for returning towards
Europe
being come; I set Sail from
Batavia,
and on the 19th of
December
made the Cape of
Good Hope;
whence departing
Jan.
11, we made the Island of
Santa Hellena
on the 31st; and
February
the 21st. the Island of
Aseension;
near to which my Ship, having sprung a Leak which could not be stopped, foundred at Sea; With much difficulty we got ashore, where we liv'd on Goats and Turtle; and on the 26th of
February
found, to our great Comfort, on the S. E. side of a high Mountain, about half a mile from its top, a Spring of fresh Water. I returned to
England
in the
Canterbury East-India
-Ship. For which wonderful Deliverance from so many and great Dangers, I think my self bound to return continual Thanks to Almighty God; whose Divine Providence if it shall please to bring me safe again to my Native Country from my present intended Voyage; I hope to publish a particular Account of all the material Things I observed in the several Places which I have now but barely mentioned.
THE CONTENTS.
CHAP. I.
The A.'s departure from the
Downs.
A Caution to those who Sail in the Channel. His Arrival at the
Canary-Islands. Santa Cruz
in
Teneriffe;
the Road and Town, and
Spanish
Wreck.
Laguna
T. Lake and Country; and
Oratavia
T. and Road. Of the Wines and other Commodities of
Teneriffe, &c.
and the Governors at
Laguna
and
Santa Cruz.
Of the Winds in these Seas. The A.'s Arrival at
Mayo.
Of the C.
Verd Islands;
its Salt-pond, compar'd with that of
Salt Tortuga;
its Trade for Salt, and
Frape
-boats. Its Vegetables, Silk-Cotton,
&c.
Its Soil, and Towns; its
Guinea
-Hen's, and other Fowls, Beasts, and Fish. Of the Sea-Turtles,
&c.
laying in the Wet Season. Of the Natives, their Trade and Livelihood. The A.'s Arrival at J.
St. Jago; Proga,
and
St. Jago
Town. Of the Inhabitants, and their Commodities. Of the Custard-Apple. St.
Jago
-Road.
J. Fogo.
CHAP. II.
The A.'s Deliberation on the Sequel of his Voyage, and Departure from St.
Jago.
His Course, and the Winds,
&c.
in crossing the
Line.
He stands away for the
Bay of All Saints
in
Brazil;
and why. His Arrival on that Coast and in the
Bay.
Of the several Forts, the Road, Situation, Town, and Buildings of
Bahia.
Of its Governor, Ships and Merchants; and Commodities to and from
Europe.
Claying of Sugar. The Season for the
European
Ships, and
Coire
Cables: Of their
Guinea
-trade, and of the Coasting-trade, and Whale-killing. Of the Inhabitants of
Bahia;
their carrying in Hammocks: their Artificers, Crane for Goods, and
Negro
-Slaves. Of the Country about
Bahia,
its Soil and Product. Its Timber-trees; the
Sapiera, Vermiatico, Comesserie, Guitteba, Serrie,
and Mangroves. The Bastard-Coco, its Nuts and Cables; and the Silk-Cotton-trees. The
Brasilian
Fruits, Oranges,
&c.
Of the
Sour-sops, Cashew's,
and
Jennipah's.
Of their peculiar Fruits,
Arisah's, Mericasah's, Petango's, Petumbo's, Mungaroo's, Muckishaw's, Ingaw's, Otees,
and
Musteran de Ova's.
Of the Palm-berries, Physick-nuts,
Mendibee's,
&c. and their Roots and Herbs,
&c.
Of their Wild Fowl, Maccaw's, Parrots,
&c.
The
Yemma,
Carrion-Crow and Chattering-crow, Bill-bird, Curreso, Turtle-dove and Wild-pigeons; the
Jenetee,
Clocking-hen, Crab-catcher, Galden, and black Heron: The Ducks, Wigeon and Teal; and Ostriges to the Southward: and of the Dunghil-fowls. Of their Cattle,. Horses,
&c.
Leopards and Tiger's. Of their Serpents; the Rattle-Snake, small Green-Snake,
Amphisbaena,
small Black and small Grey-Snake; the great Land, and the great Water-Snake: and of the Water-dog. Of their Sea-fish and Turtle; and of St.
Paul
's Town.
CHAP. III.
The A.'s Stay and Business at
Bahia:
Of the Winds, and Seasons of the Year there. His departure for
N. Holland. C. Salvadore.
The Winds on the
Brasilian
Coast; and
Abrohlo
Shoal; Fish, and Birds: The Shear-water Bird, and Cooking of Sharks. Excessive number of Birds about a dead Whale; of the Pintado-Bird, and the Petrel,
&c.
Of a Bird that shews the
C. of G. Hope
to be near: Of the Sea-reckonings, and
Variations:
And a
Table
of all the
Variations
observ'd in this Voyage. Occurrences near the
Cape;
and the A.'s passing by it. Of the Westerly Winds beyond it: A Storm, and its Presages. The A.'s Course to
N. Holland;
and Signs of approaching it. Another
Abrohlo
Shole and Storm, and the A.'s Arrival on part of
N. Holland.
That part describ'd; and
Shark
's Bay, wbere he first Anchors. Of the Land there, Vegetables, Birds,
&c.
A particular sort of
Guano:
Fish, and beautiful Shells; Turtle, large Shark, and Water-Serpents. The A.'s removing to another part of
N. Holland:
Dolphins, Whales, and more Sea-Serpents: and of a
Passage
or
Streight
suspected here: Of the Vegetables, Birds, and Fish. He anchors on a third Part of
N. Holland,
and digs Wells, but brackish. Of the Inhabitants there, the great Tides, the Vegetables and Animals,
&c.
Dampier
's Voyages.
VOL. III. A Voyage to
Terra Australis.
CHAP. I.
The A.'s departure from the
Downs.
A Caution to those who Sail in the Channel. His Arrival at the
Canary-Islands. Santa Cruz
in
Teneriffe;
the Road and Town, and
Spanish
Wreck.
Laguna
T. Lake and Country; and
Oratavia
T. and Road. Of the Wines and other Commodities of
Teneriffe, &c.
and the Governors at
Laguna
and
Santa Cruz.
Of the Winds in these Seas. The A.'s Arrival
at
Mayo,
one of the C.
Verd Islands;
its Salt-pond, compar'd with that of
Salt-Tortuga;
its Trade for Salt, and
Frape
-boats. Its Vegetables, Silk-Cotton,
&c.
Its Soil, and Towns; its
Guinea
-Hen's, and other Fowls, Beasts, and Fish. Of the Sea-Turtle's (
&c.
) laying in the Wet Season. Of the Natives, their Trade and Livelihood. The A.'s Arrival at J.
St. Jago;
and
St. Jago
Town. Of the Inhabitants, and their Commodities. Of the Custard-Apple, and the
Papah.
St.
Jago
Road.
J. Fogo.
I Sail'd from the
Downs
early on
Saturday, Jan.
14. 1698/9. with a fair Wind, in his Majesty's Ship the
Roe-buck;
carrying but 12 Guns in this Voyage, and 50 Men and Boys, with 20 Month's Provision. We had several of the King's Ships in Company, bound for
Spit-head
and
Plimouth;
and by Noon we were off
Dungeness.
We parted from them that Night, and stood down the Channel, but found our Selves next Morning nearer the
French
Coast than we expected; C.
de Hague
bearing S. E. and by E. 6 L. There were many other Ships, some nearer, some further off the
French
Coast, who all seem'd to have gone nearer to it than they thought they should. My Master, who was somewhat troubled at it at first, was not displeas'd however to find that he had Company in his Mistake: Which, as I have heard, is a very common one, and fatal to many Ships. The Occasion of it is the not allowing for the Change of the Variation since the making of the Charts; which Captain
Halley
has observ'd to be very considerable. I shall refer the Reader to his own Account of it which he caus'd to be Publish'd in a single Sheet of Paper, purposely for a Caution to such as pass to and fro the
English
Channel: The Title of it is in the Margin.
An Advertisement necessary to be observ'd in the Navigation up and down the Channel of
England. Sold by
S. Smith
at the
Prince's Arms
in St.
Paul
's Churchyard. Price 2
d.
And my own Experience thus confirming to me the Usefulness of such a Caution, I was willing to take this occasion of helping towards the making it the more Publick.
Not to trouble the Reader with every Days Run, nor with the Winds or Weather (but only in the remoter Parts, where it may be more particularly useful) standing away from C.
la Hague,
we made the
Start
about 5 that Afternoon; which being the last Land we saw of
England,
we reckon'd our Departure from thence: Tho' we had rather have taken it from the
Lizard,
if the hazy Weather would have suffer'd us to have seen it.
The first Land we saw after we were out of the Channel was C.
Finisterre,
which we made on the 19th; and on the 28th made
Lancerota,
one of the
Canary
Islands; of which, and of
Allegrance,
another of them, I have here given the
Sights,
as they both appeared to us at two several Bearings and Distances. [Table I. No . 1, 2.]
We were now standing away for the Island
Teneriffe,
where I intended to take in some Wine and Brandy for my Voyage. On
Sunday,
half an hour past 3 in the Afternoon, we made the Island, and crouded in with all our Sails till 5; when the N. E. Point of the Isle bore W. S. W. dist. 7 Leagues: But being then so far off that I could not expect to get in before Night, I lay by till next Morning, deliberating whether I should put in at
Santa Cruz,
or at
Oratavia,
the one on the E. the other on the W. side of the Island; which lies mostly North and South; and these are the principal Ports on each Side. I chose
Santa Cruz
as the better Harbour (especially at this time of the Year) and as best furnish'd with that sort of Wine which I had occasion to take in for my Voyage: So there I come to an Anchor
Jan.
30th, in 33 Fathom-water, black slimy Ground; about half a Mile from the Shore; from which distance I took the Sight of the Town. [Table I. No . 3.]
Table I.
Canary Islands
No . 1.
I. Allegrance,
dist: about 12 Leagues at these Bearings
I. Lancerota
Shews thus at ye same time, dist: about 17 L. at these Bear̄ .
No . 2.
I. Allegrance
dist: about 17 Leagues at the Bearings
I. Lancerota
Shews thus at ye same time, dist: about 15 L.
The Sight of Lancerota continued
No . 3.
I. Teneriffe
Soon after I had anchor'd I went ashore here to the Governor of the Town, who received me very kindly and invited me to Dine with him the next day. I return'd on board in the Evening, and went ashore again with two of my Officers the next Morning; hoping to get up the Hill time enough to see
Laguna,
the principal Town, and to be back again to Dine with the Governor of
Santa Cruz;
for I was told that
Laguna
was but 3 Mile off. The Road is all the way up a pretty steep Hill; yet not so steep but that Carts go up and down laden. There are Publick Houses scattering by the way-side, where we got some Wine. The Land on each side seemed to be but rocky and dry; yet in many Places we saw Spots of green flourishing Corn. At farther distances there were small Vineyards by the Sides of the Mountains, intermixt with abundance of waste rocky Land, unfit for Cultivation, which afforded only Dildo-bushes. It was about 7 or 8 in the Morning when we set out from
Santa Cruz;
and it being fair clear Weather, the Sun shone very bright and warmed us sufficiently before we got to the City
Laguna;
which we reached about 10 a Clock, all sweaty and tired, and were glad to refresh our selves with a little Wine in a sorry Tipling-house: But we soon found out one of the
English
Merchants that resided here; who entertain'd us handsomly at Dinner, and in the Afternoon shew'd us the Town.
Laguna
is a pretty large well-compacted Town, and makes a very agreeable Prospect. It stands part of it against a Hill, and part in a Level. The Houses have mostly strong Walls built with Stone and covered with Pantile. They are not uniform, yet they appear pleasant enough. There are many fair Buildings; among which are 2 Parish-Churches, 2 Nunneries, an Hospital, 4 Convents, and some Chapels; besides many Gentlemen's Houses. The Convents are those of St.
Austin,
St.
Dominick,
St.
Francis,
and St.
Diego.
The two Churches have pretty high square Steeples, which top the rest of the Buildings. The Streets are not Regular, yet they are mostly spacious and pretty handsome; and near the middle of the Town is a large Parade, which has good Buildings about it. There is a strong Prison on one side of it; near which is a large Conduit of good Water, that supplies all the Town. They have many Gardens which are set round with Oranges, Limes, and other Fruits: In the middle of which are Pot-herbs, Sallading, Flowers,
&c.
And, indeed, if the Inhabitants were curious this way, they might have very pleasant Gardens: For as the Town stands high from the Sea, on the Brow of a Plain that is all open to the East, and hath consequently the Benefit of the true Trade-wind, which blows here, and is most commonly fair; so there are seldom wanting, at this Town, brisk, cooling, and refreshing Breezes all the Day.
On the back of the Town there is a large Plain of 3 or 4 Leagues in length and 2 Miles wide, producing a thick kindly sort of Grass, which look'd green and very pleasant when I was there, like our Meadows in
England
in the Spring. On the East-side of this Plain, very near the back of the Town, there is a natural Lake or Pond of fresh Water. It is about half a Mile in circumference; but being stagnant, 'tis only us'd for Cattle to drink of. In the Winter-time several sorts of wild Fowl resort hither, affording plenty of Game to the Inhabitants of
Laguna.
This City is called
Laguna
from hence; for that Word in
Spanish
signifies a Lake or Pond. The Plain is bounded on the W. the N. W. and the S. W. with high steep Hills; as high above this Plain as this is above the Sea; and 'tis from the foot of one of these Mountains that the Water of the Conduit which supplies the Town, is conveyed over the Plain, in Troughs of Stone rais'd upon Pillars. And, indeed, considering the Situation of the Town, its large Prospect to the East (for from hence you see the
Grand Canary
) its Gardens, cool Arbors, pleasant Plain, green Fields, the Pond and Aqueduct, and its refreshing Breezes, it is a very delightful Dwelling; especially for such as have not Business that calls them far and often from home: For the Island being generally Mountainous, steep and craggy, full of Risings and Fallings, 'tis very troublesome Travelling up and down in it, unless in the Cool of the Mornings and Evenings: And Mules and Asses are most us'd by them, both for Riding and Carriage, as fittest for the stony, uneven Roads.
Beyond the Mountains, on the S. W. side, still further up, you may see from the Town and Plain a small peeked Hill, overlooking the rest. This is that which is called the
Pike of Teneriffe
,
so much noted for its heighth: But we saw it here at so great a disadvantage, by reason of the nearness of the adjacent Mountains to us, that it looked inconsiderable in respect to its Fame.
The true
Malmesy
Wine grows in this Island; and this here is said to be the best of its kind in the World. Here is also
Canary
-Wine, and
Verdona,
or Green-wine. The
Canary
grows chiefly on the West-side of the Island; and therefore is commonly sent to
Oratavia;
which being the chief Sea-port for Trade in the Island, the principal
English
Merchants reside there, with their Consul; because we have a great Trade for this Wine. I was told, That that Town is bigger than
Laguna;
that it has but one Church, but many Convents: That the Port is but ordinary at best, and is very bad when the N. W. Winds blow. These Norwesters give notice of their coming, by a great Sea that tumbles in on the Shore for some time before they come, and by a black Sky in the N. W. Upon these Signs Ships either get up their Anchors, or slip their Cables and put to Sea, and ply off and on till the Weather is over. Sometimes they are forced to do so 2 or 3 times before they can take in their Lading; which 'tis hard to do here in the fairest Weather: And for fresh Water, they send, as I have said, to
Santa Cruz. Verdona
is green, strong-bodied Wine, harsher and sharper than
Canary.
'Tis not so much esteemed in
Europe,
but is exported to the
West-Indies,
and will keep best in hot Countries; for which Reason I touch'd here to take in some of it for my Voyage. This sort of Wine is made chiefly on the East-side of the Island, and Shipt off at
Santa Cruz.
Besides these Wines, which are yearly vended in great plenty from the
Canary
Islands (chiefly from
Grand Canary, Teneriffe,
and
Palma
) here is store of Grain, as Wheat, Barly and Maiz, which they often transport to other places. They have also some Beans and Peas, and Coches, a sort of Grain much like Maiz, sow'd mostly to satten Land. They have Papah's, which I shall speak more of hereafter; Apples, Pears, Plumbs, Cherries, and excellent Peaches, Apricocks, Guava's, Pomegranates, Citrons, Oranges, Lemons, Limes, Pumpkins, Onions the best in the World, Cabbages, Turnips, Potato's,
&c.
They are also well stocked with Horses, Cows, Asses, Mules, Sheep, Goats, Hogs, Conies, and plenty of Deer. The
Lancerot
Horses are said to be the most mettlesome, fleet, and loyal Horses that are. Lastly, here are many Fowls, as Cocks and Hens, Ducks, Pidgeons, Patridges,
&c.
with plenty of Fish, as Mackril,
&c.
All the
Canary
Islands have of these Commodities and Provisions more or less: But as
Lancerota
is most fam'd for Horses, and
Grand Canary, Teneriffe,
and
Palma
for Wines,
Teneriffe
especially for the best Malmesy, (for which reason these 3 Islands have the chief Trade) so is
Forteventura
for Dunghil-Fowls, and
Gomera
for Deer. Fowls and other Eatables are dear on the Trading Islands; but very plentiful and cheap on the other; and therefore 'tis best for such Ships as are going out on long Voyages, and who design to take in but little Wine, to touch rather at these last; where also they may be supply'd with Wine enough, and good cheap: And for my own part, if I had known it before I came hither, I should have gone rather to one of those Islands than to
Teneriffe:
But enough of this.
'Tis reported they can raise 12000 armed Men on this Island. The Governor or
General
(as he is call'd) of all the
Canary
Islands lives at
Laguna:
His Name is
Don Pedro de Ponto.
He is a Native of this Island, and was not long since President of
Panama
in the
South Seas;
who bringing some very rich Pearls from thence, which he presented to the Queen of
Spain,
was therefore, as 'tis said, made General of the
Canary
Islands. The
Grand Canary
is an Island much superior to
Teneriffe
both in Bulk and Value; but this Gentleman chuses rather to reside in this his native Island. He has the Character of a very worthy Person; and governs with Moderation and Justice, being very well beloved.
One of his Deputies was the Governor of
Santa Cruz,
with whom I was to have Din'd; but staying so long at
Laguna,
I came but time enough to Sup with him. He is a civil, discreet Man. He resides in the main Fort close by the Sea. There is a Centinel stands at his Door; and he has a few Servants to wait on him. I was Treated in a large dark Lower Room, which has but one small Window. There were about 200 Muskets hung up against the Walls, and some Pikes; no Wainscot, Hangings, nor much Furniture. There was only a small old Table, a few old Chairs, and 2 or 3 pretty long Forms to sit on. Having Supp'd with him, I invited him on Board, and went off in my Boat. The next Morning he came aboard with another Gentleman in his Company, attended by 2 Servants: But he was presently Sea-sick, and so much out of order that he could scarce Eat or Drink any Thing, but went quickly ashore again.
Having refresh'd my Men ashore, and taken in what we had occasion for, I Sail'd away from
Santa Cruz
on
Feb.
4. in the Afternoon; hastening out all I could, because the N. E. Winds growing stormy made so great Sea, that the Ship was scarce safe in the Road; and I was glad to get out, tho' we left behind several Goods we had bought and paid for: For a Boat could not go ashore; and the stress was so great in weighing Anchor, that the Cable broke. I design'd next for the I. of
Mayo,
one of the
C. Verd
Islands; and ran away with a strong N. E. Wind, right afore it, all that Night and the next Day, at the rate of 10 or 11 Miles an hour; when it slacken'd to a more moderate Gale. The
Canary
Islands are, for their Latitude, within the usual Verge of the True or General Trade-Wind; which I have observ'd to be, on this side the Equator, N. Easterly: But then lying not far from the
African
Shore, they are most subject to a N. Wind, which is the
Coasting and constant Trade,
sweeping that Coast down as low as to C.
Verd;
which spreading in breadth, takes in mostly the
Canary
Islands; tho' it be there interrupted frequently with the True Trade-Wind, N. West-Winds, or other Shifts of Wind that Islands are Subject to; especially where they lie many together. The
Pike
of
Teneriffe,
which had generally been Clouded while we lay at
Santa Cruz,
appear'd now all white with Snow, hovering over the other Hills; but their heighth made it seem the less considerable; for it looks most remarkable to Ships that are to the Westward of it. We had brisk N. N. E. and N. E. Winds from
Teneriffe;
and saw Flying-fish, and a great deal of Sea-thistle Weed floating. By the 9th of
Feb.
at Noon we were in the Lat. of 15 d. 4 m. so we steered away W. N. W. for the I. of
Mayo,
being by Judgment, not far to the E. of it, and at 8 a Clock in the Evening lay by till Day. The Wind was then at W. by S. and so it continued all Night, fair Weather, and a small easie Gale. All these were great Signs, that we were near some Land, after having had such constant brisk Winds before. In the Morning after Sunrise, we saw the Island at about 4 Leagues distance. But it was so hazy over it, that we could see but a small part of it; yet even by that part I knew it to be the Isle of
Mayo.
See how it appear'd to us at several
Views,
as we were compassing the E. the S. E. and the S. of it, to get to the Road, on the S. W. of it, [Table II. No . 1, 2, 3.] and the Road it self [No . 4.]
ble II.
Cape Verd Islands
No . 1.
I. Mayo,
at 2 L. dist:, ye S. point cover'd with a Fog.
No . 2.
I. Mayo,
at these Bearings: Then 15 Fath. red coral about I M. from ye W.S.W. bearī .
No . 3.
I. Mayo,
standing away to ye S.W. point of it. dist: 2 Miles.
No . 4.
I. Mayo,
No . 5. Isle and Towne of
St . Iago
I have given some Account of the Island of
Mayo,
and of other of these Islands, in my
Voyage round the World,
[Vol. I. p. 70.] but I shall now add some further Observations that occurr'd to me in this Voyage. The I. of
Mayo
is about 7 Leagues in Circumference, of a roundish Form, with many small rocky Points shooting out into the Sea a Mile, or more. Its Lat. is 15 d. N. and as you Sail about the Isle, when you come pretty nigh the Shore, you will see the Water breaking off from those Points; which you must give a Birth to, and avoid them. I Sail'd at this time two parts in three round the Island, but saw nothing dangerous besides these Points; and they all shew'd themselves by the Breaking of the Water: Yet 'tis reported, That on the N. and N. N. W. side there are dangerous Sholes, that ly farther off at Sea; but I was not on that Side. There are 2 Hills on this Island of a considerable heighth; one pretty bluff, the other peeked at top. The rest of the Island is pretty level, and of a good heighth from the Sea. The Shore clear round hath sandy Bays, between the Rocky Points I spake of; and the whole Island is a very dry sort of Soil.
On the West-side of the Isle where the Road for Ships is there is a large Sandy Bay, and a Sand-bank, of about 40 Paces wide within it, which runs along the Shore 2 or 3 Miles; within which there is a large
Salina
or Salt-pond, contained between the Sand-bank and the Hills beyond it. The whole
Salina
is about 2 Miles in length, and half a Mile wide; but above one half of it is commonly dry. The North end only of the Pond never wants Water, producing Salt from
November
till
May,
which is here the dry Season of the Year. The Water which yields this Salt works in from out of the Sea through a hole in the Sand-bank before mentioned, like a Sluce, and that only in Spring-tides; when it fills the Pond more or less, according to the heighth of the Tides. If there is any Salt in the Ponds when the Flush of Water comes in, it presently dissolves: But then in two or three Days after it begins to Kern; and so continues Kerning till either all, or the greatest part of the Salt-water is congeal'd or kern'd; or till a fresh Supply of it comes in again from the Sea. This Water is known to come in only at that one Passage on the N. part of the Pond; where also it is deepest. It was at a Spring of the
New
Moon when I was there; and I was told that it comes in at no other time but at the New Moon Spring-tides: but why that should be I can't guess. They who come hither to lade Salt rake it up as it Kerns, and lay it in heaps on the dry Land, before the Water breaks in anew: And this is observable of this Salt-Pond, that the Salt kerns only in the Dry Season, contrary to the Salt-Ponds in the
West-Indies,
particularly those of the Island
Salt-Tortuga,
which I have formerly mentioned [Vol. I. p. 56.] for they never Kern there till the Rains come in about
April;
and continue to do so in
May, June, July,
&c. while the Wet Season lasts; and not without some good Shower of Rain first: But the Reason also of this Difference between the Salt-Ponds of
Mayo,
and those of the
West-Indies,
why these should Kern in the Wet Season, and the former in the Dry S
on, I shall leave to Philosophers.
Our Nation drive here a great Trade for Salt, and have commonly a Man of War here for the Guard of our Ships and Barks that come to take it in; of which I have been inform'd that in some Years there have not been less than 100 in a Year. It costs nothing but Men's Labour to rake it together, and wheel it out of the Pond, except the Carriage: And that also is very cheap; the Inhabitants having plenty of Asses, for which they have little to do besides carrying the Salt from the Ponds to the Sea-tide at the Season when Ships are here. The Inhabitants lade and drive their Asses themselves, being very glad to be imploy'd; for they have scarce any other Trade but this to get a Penny by. The Pond is not above half a Mile from the Landing-place, so that the Asses make a great many Trips in a day. They have a set number of Turns to and fro both Forenoon and Afternoon, which their Owners will not exceed. At the Landing-place there lies a
Frape
-boat, as our Seamen call it, to take in the
Salt.
'Tis made purposely for this use, with a Deck reaching from the Stern a third part of the Boat; where there is a kind of Bulk-head that rises, not from the Boats bottom, but from the Edge of the Deck, to about 2 foot in heighth; all calk'd very tight. The Use of it is to keep the Waves from dashing into the Boat, when it lies with its Head to the Shore, to take in Salt: For here commonly runs a great Sea; and when the Boat lies so with its Head to the Shore, the Sea breaks in over the Stern, and would soon fill it, was it not for this Bulk-head, which stops the Waves that come flowing upon the Deck, and makes them run off into the Sea on each side. To keep the Boat thus with the Head to the Shore, and the Stern to the Sea, there are two strong Stantions set up in the Boat; the one at the Head, the other in the middle of it, against the Bulk-head, and a Foot higher than the Bulk-head. There is a large Notch cut in the top of each of these Stantions big enough for a small Hazer or Rope to lie in; one end of which is fasten'd to a Post ashore, and the other to a Grapling or Anchor lying a pretty way off at Sea: This Rope serveth to hale the Boat in and out, and the Stantions serve to keep her fast, so that she cannot swing to either side when the Rope is hal'd tight: For the Sea would else fill her, or toss her ashore and stave her. The better to prevent her staving and to keep her the tighter together, there are two sets of Ropes more: The first going athwart from Gunnal to Gunnal, which, when the Rowers Benches are laid, bind the Boats sides so hard against the Ends of the Benches that they cannot easily fall asunder, while the Benches and Ropes mutually help each other; the Ropes keeping the Boats sides from flying off, and the Benches from being crush'd together inwards. Of these Ropes there are usually but two, dividing the Boats length, as they go across the Sides, into there equal parts. The other set of Ropes are more in number, and are so plac'd as to keep the Ribs and Planks of the Boat from starting off. For this purpose there are holes made at certain distances through the Edge of the Keel that runs along on the inside of the Boat; through which these Ropes passing are laid along the Ribs, so as to line them, or be themselves as Ribs upon them, being made fast to them by Rattan's brought thither, or small Cords twisted close about both Ropes and Ribs, up to the Gunnal: By which means tho' several of the Nails or Pegs of the Boat should by any shock fall out, yet the Ropes of these two sets might hold her together: Especially with the help of a Rope going quite round about the Gunnal on the out-side, as our Long-boats have. And such is the Care taken to strengthen the Boats; from which girding them with Ropes, which our Seamen call
Fraping,
they have the Name of Frape-boats. Two Men suffice to hale her in and out, and take in the Salt from Shore (which is brought in Bags) and put it out again. As soon as the Boat is brought nigh enough to the Shore, he who stands by the Bulk-head takes instantly a turn with the Hazer about the Bulk-head-Stantion; and that stops her fast before the Sea can turn her aside: And when the two Men have got in their Lading, they hale off to Sea, till they come a little without the swell; where they remove the Salt into another Boat that carries it on board the Ship. Without such a
Frape
-boat here is but bad Landing at any time: for tho' 'tis commonly very smooth in the Road, yet there falls a great Sea on the Shore, so that every Ship that comes here should have such a
Boat,
and bring, or make, or borrow one of other Ships that happen to be here; for the Inhabitants have none. I have been thus particular in the Description of these
Frape
-boats, because of the Use they may be of in any Places where a great Sea falls in upon the Shore; as it doth especially in many open Roads in the
East
and
West-Indies;
where they might therefore be very serviceable; but I never saw any of them there.
The Island
Mayo
is generally barren, being dry, as I said; and the best of it is but a very indifferent Soil. The sandy Bank that pens in the Salt-pond hath a sort of Silk Cotton growing upon it, and a Plant that runs along upon the Ground, branching out like a Vine, but with thick broad Leaves. The Silk-Cotton grows on tender Shrubs, 3 or 4 Foot high, in Cods as big as an Apple, but of a long shape; which when ripe open at one end, parting leisurely into 4 quarters; and at the first opening the Cotton breaks forth. It may be of use for stuffing of Pillows, or the like; but else is of no value, any more than that of the great Cotton-tree. I took of these Cods before they were quite ripe, and laid them in my Chest; and in two or three days they would open and throw out the Cotton. Others I have bound fast with Strings, so that the Cod could not open; and in a few Days after, as soon as I slackned the String never so little, the Cod would burst, and the Cotton fly out forceably, at a very little hole, just as the Pulp out of a roasting Apple, till all has been out of the Cod. I met with this sort of Cotton afterwards at
Timor
(where it was ripe in
November
) and no where else in all my Travels; but I found two other sorts of Silk-cotton at
Brazil,
which I shall there describe. The right Cotton-Shrub grows here also, but not on the Sand-bank. I saw some Bushes of it near the Shore; but the most of it is planted in the middle of the Isle, where the Inhabitants live, Cotton-cloth being their chief Manufacture; but neither is there any great store of this Cotton. There also are some Trees within the Island, but none to be seen near the Sea-side; nothing but a few Bushes scattering up and down against the sides of the adjacent Hills; for, as I said before, the Land is pretty high from the Sea. The Soil is for the most part either a sort of Sand, or loose crumbling Stone, without any fresh Water Ponds or Streams, to moisten it; but only Showers in the Wet-season, which run off as fast as they fall: except a small Spring in the middle of the Isle, from which proceeds a little Stream of Water that runs through a Valley between the Hills. There the Inhabitants live in three small Towns, having a Church and Padre in each Town: And these Towns, as I was inform'd, are 6 or 7 miles from the Road.
Pinose
is said to be the chief Town, and to have two Churches: St.
Johns
the next; and the third
Lagoa.
The Houses are very mean; small, low Things. They build with Fig-tree; here being, as I was told, no other Trees fit to build with. The Rafters are a sort of wild Cane. The Fruits of this Isle are chiefly Figs, and Water-Melons. They have also
Callavances
(a sort of Pulse like
French
Beans) and Pumpkins, for ordinary Food. The Fowls are Flamingo's, Great Curlews, and
Guinea
-Hens; which the Natives of those Islands call
Gallena Pintada,
or the Painted Hen; but in
Jamaica,
where I have seen also those Birds in the dry Savannah's and Woods, (for they love to run about in such Places) they are call'd
Guinea
-Hens. They seem to be much of the Nature of Partridges. They are bigger than our Hens, have long Legs, and will run apace. They can fly too, but not far, having large heavy Bodies, and but short Wings, and short Tails: As I have generally observ'd that Birds have seldom long Tails unless such as fly much; in which their Tails are usually serviceable to their turning about, as a Rudder to a Ship or Boat. These Birds have thick and strong, yet sharp Bills, pretty long Claws, and short Tails. They feed on the Ground, either on Worms, which they find by tearing open the Earth; or on Grashoppers, which are plentiful here. The Feathers of these Birds are speckled with dark and light Gray; the spots so regular and uniform, that they look more beautiful than many Birds that are deck'd with gayer Feathers. Their Necks are small and long; their Heads also but little. The Cocks have a small rising on their Crowns, like a sort of a Comb. 'Tis of the colour of a dry Wall Nut-shell, and very hard. They have a small red Gill on each side of their Heads, like Ears, strutting out downwards; but the Hens have none. They are so strong that one cannot hold them; and very hardy. They are very good Meat, tender, and sweet; and in some the Flesh is extraordinary white; tho' some others have black Flesh: but both sorts are very good. The Natives take them with Dogs, running them down whenever they please; for here are abundance of them. You shall see 2 or 300 in a company. I had several brought aboard alive, where they throve very well; some of them 16 or 18 Months; when they began to pine. When they are taken young they will become tame like our Hens. The
Flamingo
's I have already describ'd at large, [Vol. I. p. 79.] They have also many other sort of Fowls,
viz.
Pidgeons and Turtle-doves;
Miniota
's, a sort of Land-fowls as big as Crows, of a grey colour, and good Food;
Crusia
's, another sort of grey-colour'd Fowl almost as big as a Crow, which are only seen in the Night (probably a sort of Owls) and are said to be good for consumptive People, but eaten by none else.
Rabek
's, a sort of large grey eatable Fowls with long Necks and Legs, not unlike Herons; and many kinds of small Bitds.
Of Land-Animals, here are Goats, as I said formerly, and Asses good store. When I was here before they were said to have had a great many Bulls and Cows: But the Pirates, who have since miserably infested all these Islands, have much lessen'd the number of those; not having spar'd the Inhabitants themselves: for at my being there this time the Governor of
Mayo
was but newly return'd from being a Prisoner among them, they having taken him away, and carried him about with them for a Year or two.
The Sea is plentifully stock'd with Fish of divers sorts,
viz.
Dolphins, Boneta's, Mullets, Snappers, Silver-fish, Garfish,
&c.
and here is a good Bay to hale a Sain or Net in. I hal'd mine several times, and to good purpose; dragging ashore at one time 6 dozen of great Fish, most of them large Mullets of a foot and a half or two foot long. Here are also Porposes, and a small sort of Whales, that commonly visit this Road every day. I have already said, [Vol. I. p. 75.] That the Months of
May, June, July
and
August,
(that is, the Wet Season) are the time, when the Green Turtle come hither, and go ashore to lay their Eggs. I look upon it as a thing worth taking Notice of, that the Turtle should always, both in North and South Latitude, lay their Eggs in the Wet Months. It might be thought, considering what great Rains there are then in some places where these Creatures lay, that their Eggs should be spoiled by them. But the Rain, tho' violent, is soon soaked up by the Sand, wherein the Eggs are buried; and perhaps sinks not so deep into it as the Eggs are laid: And keeping down the Heat may make the Sand hotter below than it was before, like a Hot-bed. Whatever the Reason may be why Providence determines these Creatures to this Season of laying their Eggs, rather than the Dry, in Fact it is so, as I have constantly observ'd; and that not only with the Sea-Turtle, but with all other sorts of Amphibious Animals that lay Eggs; as Crocodils, Alligator's, Guano's,
&c.
The Inhabitants of this Island, even their Governour and
Padre
's, are all Negro's, Woolpated like their
African
-Neighbours; from whom 'tis like they are descended; tho' being Subjects to the
Portuguese
they have their Religion and Language. They are stout, lusty, well-limb'd People, both Men and Women, fat and fleshy; and they and their Children as round and plump as little Porposes; tho' the Island appears so barren to a Stranger as scarce to have Food for its Inhabitants. I inquired how many People there might be on the Isle; And was told by one of the
Padre
's, that here were 230 Souls in all. The Negro-Governor has his Patent from the
Portuguese
Governor of St.
Jago.
He is a very civil and sensible poor Man; and they are generally a good sort of People. He expects a small Present from every Commander that lades Salt here; and is glad to be invited aboard their Ships. He spends most of his time with the
English
in the Salting Season, which is his Harvest; and indeed, all the Islanders are then fully employed in getting somewhat; for they have no Vessels of their own to Trade with, nor do any Portuguese-Vessels come hither: scarce any but
English,
on whom they depend for Trade; and tho' Subjects of
Portugal,
have a particular Value for us. We don't pay them for their Salt, but for the Labour of themselves and their Beasts in lading it: for which we give them Victuals, some Mony, and old Cloaths,
viz.
Hats, Shirts, and other Cloaths: by which means many of them are indifferently well rigg'd; but some of them go almost Naked. When the Turtle-season comes in they watch the Sandy-bays in the Night, to turn them; and having small Huts at particular Places on the Bays to keep them from the Rain, and to sleep in: And this is another Harvest they have for Food; for by Report there come a great many Turtle to this and the rest of the
Cape Verd Islands.
When the Turtle Season is over they have little to do but to hunt for
Guinea
-Hens, and manage their small Plantations. But by these means they have all the Year some Employment or other; whereby they get a Subsistence, tho' but little else. When any of them are desirous to go over to St.
Jago
they get a Licence from the Governor, and desire passage in any
English
Ship that is going thither: And indeed all Ships that lade Salt here will be obliged to touch at St.
Jago
for Water, for here at the Bay is none, not so much as for Drinking. 'Tis true there is a small Well of brackish Water not half a mile from the Landing-place, which the Asses that carry Salt drink at; but 'tis very bad Water. Asses themselves are a Commodity in some of these Islands, several of our Ships coming hither purposely to freight with them, and carry them to
Barbadoes
and our other Plantations. I stay'd at
Mayo
6 days, and got 7 or 8 Tun of Salt aboard for my Voyage: In which time there came also into this Road several Sail of Merchants Ships for Salt; all bound with it for
Newfoundland.
The 19th day of
February,
at about One a Clock in the Morning I weighed from
Mayo
-Road, in order to Water at St.
Jago,
which was about 5 or 6 Leagues to the Westward. We coasted along the Island
St. Jago,
and past by the Port on the East of it, I mention'd formerly [Vol. I. p. 76.] which they call
Praya;
where some English outward-bound
East-India
Men still touch, but not so many of them as heretofore. We saw the Fort upon the Hill, the Houses and Coco-nut Trees: But I would not go in to anchor here, because I expected better Water on the S. W. of the Island, at St.
Jago
Town. By 8 a Clock in the Morning we saw the Ships in that Road, being within 3 Leagues of it: But were forc'd to keep Turning many hours to get in, the Flaws of Wind coming so uncertain; as they do especially to the
Leeward
of Islands that are High Land. At length two
Portuguese
boats came off to help tow us in; and about 3 a Clock in the Afternoon we came to an Anchor; and took the Prospect of the Town, [Table II. No . 5.] We found here, besides two
Portuguese-Ships
bound for
Brazil,
whose Boats had tow'd us in; an
English
Pink that had taken in Asses at one of the
Cape Verd
Islands, and was bound to
Barbadoes
with them. Next Morning I went Ashore with my Officers to the Governor, who treated us with Sweet-meats: I told him, the occasion of my coming was chiefly for Water; and that I desired also to take in some Refreshments of Fowls,
&c.
He said I was welcom, and that he would order the Townsmen to bring their Commodities to a certain House, where I might purchase what I had occasion for: I told him I had not Mony, but would exchange some of the Salt which I brought from
Mayo
for their Commodities. He reply'd, that Salt was indeed an acceptable Commodity with the poor People, but that if I design'd to buy any Cattle, I must give Mony for them. I contented my self with taking in Dunghil Fowls: The Governor ordering a Cryer to go about the Town and give notice to the People, that they might repair to such a place with Fowls, and Maiz for feeding them, where they might get Salt in exchange for them: So I sent on board for Salt, and ordered some of my Men to truck the same for the Fowls and Maiz, while the rest of them were busie in filling of Water. This is the effect of their keeping no Boats of their own on the several Islands, that they are glad to buy even their own Salt of Foreigners, for want of being able to transport it themselves from Island to Island.
St. Jago
Town lies on the S. W. part of the Island, in Lat. about 15 Deg. N. and is the Seat of the General Governour, and of the Bishop of all the
Cape Verd
Islands. This Town stands scattering against the sides of two Mountains, between which there is a deep Valley, which is about 200 Yards wide against the Sea; but within a quarter of a mile it closes up so as not to be 40 Yards wide. In the Valley, by the Sea, there is a stragling Street, Houses on each side, and a Run of Water in the bottom, which empties it self into a fine small Cove or sandy Bay, where the Sea is commonly very smooth: so that here is good Wat'ring and good Landing at any time; tho' the Road be rocky and bad for Ships. Just by the Landing-place there is a small Fort, almost level with the Sea, where is always a Court of Guard kept. On the top of the Hill, above the Town, there is another Fort; which, by the Wall that is to be seen from the Road, seems to be a large Place. They have Canon mounted there, but how many I know not: Neither what use that Fort can be of, except it be for Salutes. The Town may consist of 2 or 300 Houses, all built of rough Stone; having also one Convent, and one Church.
The People in general are black, or at least of a mixt colour, except only some few of the better sort,
viz.
the Governor, the Bishop, some Gentlemen, and some of the Padres; for some of these also are black. The People about
Praya
are Thievish; but these of
St. Jago
-Town, living under their Governour's Eye, are more orderly; tho' generally poor, having little Trade: Yet besides chance Ships of other Nations, there come hither a
Portuguese
Ship or two every Year, in their way to
Brazil.
These vend among them a few
European
Commodies, and take of their principal Manufactures,
viz.
striped Cotton-cloth, which they carry with them to
Brazil.
Here is also another Ship comes hither from
Portugal
for Sugar, their other Manufacture, and returns with it directly thither: For 'tis reported that there are several small Sugar-works on this Island, from which they send home near 100 Tun every year; and they have plenty of Cotton growing up in the Country, wherewith they cloath themselves, and send also a great deal to
Brazil.
They have Vines, of which they make some Wine: but the
European
Ships furnish them with better; tho' they drink but little of any. Their chief Fruits are, (besides Plantains in abundance) Oranges, Lemons, Citrons, Melons, (both Musk and Water-melons) Limes, Guava's, Pomgranates, Quinces, Custard-Apples, and Papah's,
&c.
The Custard-Apple (as we call it) is a Fruit as big as a
Pomegranate,
and much of the same colour. The out-side Husk, Shell or Rind, is for substance and thickness between the Shell of a Pomegranate, and the Peel of a
Sevil
-Orange; softer than this, yet more brittle than that. The Coat or Covering is also remarkable in that it is beset round with small regular Knobs or Risings; and the inside of the Fruit is full of a white soft Pulp, sweet and very pleasant, and most resembling a Custard of any thing, both in Colour and Tast: From whence probably it is called a Custard-Apple by our
English.
It has in the middle a few small black Stones or Kernels; but no Core, for 'tis all Pulp. The Tree that bears this Fruit is about the bigness of a Quince-tree, with long, small, and thickset Branches spread much abroad: At the Extremity of here and there one of which the Fruit grows upon a Stalk of its own about 9 or 10 Inches long, slender and tough, and hanging down with its own weight. A large Tree of this sort does not bear usually above 20 or 30 Apples; seldom more. This Fruit grows in most Countries within the
Tropicks.
I have seen of them (tho' I omitted the Description of them before) all over the
West-Indies,
both Continent and Islands; as also in
Brazil,
and in the
East-Indies.
The
Papah
too is found in all these Countries, though I have not hitherto describ'd it. It is a Fruit about the bigness of a Musk-Melon, hollow as that is, and much resembling it in Shape and Colour, both outside and inside: Only in the middle, instead of flat Kernels, which the Melons have, these have a handful of small blackish Seeds, about the bigness of Pepper-corns; whose Taste is also hot on the Tongue somewhat like Pepper. The Fruit it self is sweet, soft and luscious, when ripe; but while green 'tis hard and unfavory: tho' even then being boiled and eaten with Salt-pork or Beef, it serves instead of Turnips, and is as much esteemed. The Papah-Tree is about 10 or 12 Foot high. The Body near the Ground may be a Foot and an half or 2 Foot Diameter; and it grows up tapering to the top. It has no Branches at all, but only large Leaves growing immediately upon Stalks from the Body. The Leaves are of a roundish Form and jag'd about the Edges, having their Stalks or Stumps longer or shorter as they grow near or further from the top. They begin to spring from out of the Body of the Tree at about 6 or 7 Foot heighth from the Ground, the Trunk being bare below: but above that the Leaves grow thicker and larger still towards its Top, where they are close and broad. The Fruit grows only among the Leaves; and thickest among the thickest of them; insomuch that towards the top of the Tree the
Papah
's springs forth from its Body as thick as they can stick one by another. But then lower down, where the Leaves are thinner, the Fruit is larger, and of the size I have describ'd: And at the Top, where they are thick, they are but small, and no bigger than ordinary Turnips; yet tasted like the rest.
Their chief Land-Animals are their Bullocks; which are said to be many; tho' they askt us 20 Dollars apiece for them: They have also Horses, Asses, and Mules, Deer, Goats, Hogs, and blackfac'd long-tail'd Monkeys. Of Fowls they have Cocks and Hens, Ducks,
Guinea
-Hens, both tame and wild, Parakites, Parrots, Pidgeons, Turtle-Doves, Herons, Hawks, Crab-catchers, Galdens, (a larger sort of Crab-catchers) Curlew's,
&c.
Their Fish is the same as at
Mayo
and the rest of these Islands, and for the most part these Islands have the same Beasts and Birds also: But some of the Isles have Pasturage and Employment for some particular Beasts more than other; and the Birds are incourag'd, by Woods for shelter, and Maiz and Fruits sor Food, to flock rather to some of the Islands (as to this of St.
Jago
) than to others.
St.
Jago
Road is one of the worst that I have been in. There is not clean Ground enough for above 3 Ships; and those also must lie very near each other. One even of these must lie close to the Shore, with a Land-fast there: And that is the best for a small Ship. I should not have come in here if I had not been told that it was a good secure Place; but I found it so much otherways, that I was in pain to be gone. Captain
Baresool,
who came to an Anchor while I was here, in
oul Ground, lost quickly 2 Anchors; and I had lost a small one. The Island
Fogo
shews its self from this Road very plain, at about 7 or 8 Leagues distance; and in the Night we saw the Flames of Fire issuing from its Top.
CHAP. II.
The A.'s Deliberation on the Sequel of his Voyage, and Departure from
St. Jago.
His Course, and the Winds,
&c.
in crossing the
Line.
He stands away for the
Bay of All Saints
in
Brazil;
and why. His Arrival on that Coast and in the
Bay.
Of the several Forts, the Road, Situation, Town, and Buildings of
Bahia.
Of its Governor, Ships and Merchants; and Commodities to and from
Europe.
Claying of Sugar. The Season for the
European
Ships, and
Coire
Cables: Of their
Guinea
-trade, and of the Coasting-trade, and Whale-killing. Of the Inhabitants of
Bahia;
their carrying in Hammocks: their Artificers, Crane for Goods, and
Negro
-Slaves. Of the Country about
Bahia,
its Soil and Product. Its Timber-trees; the
Sapiera, Vermiatico, Comesserie, Guitteba, Serrie,
and Mangroves. The Bastard-Coco, its Nuts and Cables; and the Silk-Cotton-trees. The
Brasilian
Fruits, Oranges,
&c.
Of the
Sour-sops, Cashew's,
and
Jennipah's.
Of their peculiar Fruits,
Arisah's, Mericasah's, Petango's, Petumbo's, Mungaroo's, Muckishaw's, Ingwa's, Otee's,
and
Musteran de ova's.
Of the Palm-berries, Physick-nuts,
Mendibee's,
&c. and their Roots and Herbs,
&c.
Of their Wild Fowl, Maccaw's, Parrots,
&c.
The
Yemma,
Carrion-Crow and Chattering-crow, Bill-bird, Curreso, Turtle-dove and Wild-pigeons; the
Jenetee,
Clocking-hen, Crab-catcher, Galden, and black Heron: The Ducks, Wigeon and Teal; and Ostriges to the Southward: and of the Dunghil-fowls. Of their Cattle, Horses,
&c.
Leopards and Tiger's. Of their Serpents; the the Rattle-Snake, small Green-Snake,
Amphisbaena,
small Black and small Grey-Snake; the great Land, and the great Water-Snake: and of the VVater-dog. Of their Sea-fish and Turtle; and of St.
Paul
's-Town.
HAving dispatch'd my small Affairs at the
C. Verd
Islands, I meditated on the process of my Voyage. I thought it requisite to touch once more at a cultivated Place in these Seas, where my Men might be refresh'd, and might have a Market wherein to furnish themselves with Necessaries: For designing that my next Stretch should be quite to
N. Holland,
and knowing that after so long a Run nothing was to be expected there but fresh Water, if I could meet even with that there, I resolved upon putting in first at some Port of
Brazil,
and to provide my Self there with whatever I might have further Occasion for. Beside the refreshing and furnishing my Men, I aim'd also at the inuring them gradually and by intervals to the Fatigues that were to be expected in the remainder of the Voyage, which was to be in a part of the World they were altogether Strangers to; none of them, except two young Men, having ever crosst the
Line.
With this Design I sail'd from
St. Jago
on the 22d of
February,
with the Winds at E. N. E. and N. E. fair Weather, and a brisk Gale. We steered away S. S. E. and S. S. E. half East, till in the Lat. of 7 deg. 50 min. we met with many Riplings in the Sea like a Tide or strong Current, which setting against the Wind caus'd such a Ripling. We continu'd to meet these Currents from that Lat. till we came into the Lat. of 3 deg. 22 N. when they ceased. During this time we saw some Boneta's, and Sharks; catching one of these. We had the true General Trade-Wind blowing fresh at N. E. till in the Lat. of 4 deg. 40 min. N. when the Wind varied, and we had small Gales, with some Tornadoes. We were then to the East of
St. Jago
4 deg. 54 min. when we got into Lat. 3 deg. 2 min. N. (where I said the Ripling ceas'd) and Long. to the East of
St. Jago
5 deg. 2 min. we had the Wind whiffling between the S. by E. and E. by N. small Gales, frequent Calms, very black Clouds, with much Rain. In the Lat. of 3 deg. 8 min. N. and Long. E. from
St. Jago
5 deg. 8 min. we had the Wind from the S. S. E. to the N. N. E. faint, and often interrupted with Calms. While we had Calms we had the opportunity of trying the Current we had met with hitherto, and found that it set N. E. by E. half a Knot, which is 12 mile in 24 hours: So that here it ran at the Rate of half a mile an hour, and had been much stronger before. The Rains held us by intervals till the Lat. of 1 deg. 0 min. N. with small Gales of Wind between S. S. E. and S. E. by E. and sometimes calm: Afterwards we had the Wind between the S. & S. S. E. till we crosst the Line, small Winds, Calms, and pretty fair Weather. We saw but few Fish beside Porposes; but of them a great many, and struck one of them.
It was the 10th day of
March,
about the time of the
Equinox,
when we crosst the
Equator,
having had all along from the Lat. of 4 deg. 40 min. N. where the True Trade-Wind left us, a great swell out of the S. E. and but small uncertain Gales, mostly Southerly, so that we crept to the Southward but slowly. I kept up against these as well as I could to the Southward, and when we had now and then a flurry of Wind at E. I still went away due South, purposely to get to the Southward as fast as I could; for while near the
Line
I expected to have but uncertain Winds, frequent Calms, Rains, Tornadoes,
&c.
which would not only retard my Course, but endanger Sickness also among my Men: especially those who were ill provided with Cloaths, or were too lazy to shift themselves when they were drench'd with the Rains. The Heat of the Weather made them careless of doing this; but taking a Dram of Brandy, which I gave them when wet, with a Charge to shift themselves, they would however lie down in their Hammocks with their Wet Cloaths; so that when they turn'd out they caus'd an ill smell where-ever they came, and their Hammocks would stink sufficiently: that I think the Remedying of this is worth the Care of Commanders that cross the
Line;
especially when they are, it may be, a Month or more e'er they get out of the Rains, at some times of the Year, as in
June, July,
or
August.
What I have here said about the Currents, Winds, Calms,
&c.
in this Passage is chiefly for the farther Illustration of what I have heretofore observ'd in general about these Matters, and especially as to Crossing the Line, in my
Discourse of the Winds,
&c.
in the Torrid Zone:
[See Vol. II. Part 3. p. 5, 6.] Which Observations I have had very much confirm'd to me in the Course of this Voyage; and I shall particularize in several of the chief of them as they come in my Way. And indeed I think I may say this of the Main of the Observations in that
Treatise,
that the clear Satisfaction I had about them, and how much I might rely upon them, was a great Ease to my Mind during this Vexatious Voyage; wherein the Ignorance, and Obstinacy withal, of some under me, occasion'd me a great deal of Tronble: tho' they found all along, and were often forc'd to acknowledge it, that I was seldom out in my Conjectures, when I told them usually beforehand what Winds,
&c.
we should meet with at such or such particular Places we should come at.
Pernambuc
was the Port that I designed for at my first setting out from
St. Jago;
it being a Place most proper for my purpose, by reason of its Situation, lying near the Extremity of
C. St. Augustine,
the Easternmost Promontory of
Brazil;
by which means it not only enjoys the greater benefit of the Sea-breezes, and is consequently more healthy than other Places to the Southward, but is withal less subject to the Southerly Coasting-Trade-winds, that blow half the Year on this Shore; which were now drawing on, and might be troublesome to me: So that I might both hope to reach soonest
Pernambuc,
as most directly and nearest in my Run; and might thence also more easily get away to the Southward than from
Bahia de Todos los Santos,
or
Ria Janeira.
But notwithstanding these Advantages I propos'd to my self in going to
Pernambuc,
I was soon put by that Design through the refractoriness of some under me, and the Discontents and Backwardness of some of my Men. For the Calms and Shiftings of Wind which I met with, as I was to expect, in crossing the Line, made them, who were unacquainted with these Matters, almost heartless as to the persuit of the Voyage, as thinking we should never be able to weather C.
St. Augustine:
And though I told them that by that time we should get to about three Degrees South of the Line, we should again have a True brisk General Trade-Wind from the North East, that would carry us to what part of
Brazil
we pleas'd, yet they would not believe it till they found it so. This, with some other unforeseen Accidents, not necessary to be mention'd in this place, meeting with the Aversion of my Men to a long unknown Voyage, made me justly apprehensive of their Revolting, and was a great Trouble and Hindrance to me. So that I was obliged partly to alter my Measures, and met with many Difficulties, the Particulars of which I shall not trouble the Reader with: But I mention thus much of it in general for my own necessary Vindication, in my taking such Measures sometimes for prosecuting the Voyage as the state of my Ships Crew, rather than my own Judgment and Experience, determin'd me to. The Disorders of my Ship made me think at present that
Pernambuc
would not be so fit a Place for me; being told that Ships ride there two or three Leagues from the Town, under the Command of no Forts; so that whenever I should have been ashore it might have been easy for my discontented Crew to have cut or slipt their Cables, and have gone away from me: Many of them discovering already an Intention to return to
England,
and some of them declaring openly that they would go no further onwards than
Brazil.
I alter'd my Course therefore, and stood away for
Bahio de todos los Santos,
or the
Bay of All Saints,
where I hop'd to have the Governor's help, if need should require, for securing my Ship from any such Mutinous Attempt; being forc'd to keep my self all the way upon my Guard, and to lie with my Officers, such as I could trust, and with small Arms, upon the Quarter-deck; it scarce being safe for me to lie in my Cabbin, by Reason of the Discontents among my Men.
On the 23d of
March
we saw the Land of
Brazil;
having had thither, from the time when we came into the True Trade-Wind again after crossing the Line, very fair Weather and brisk Gales, mostly at E. N. E. The Land we saw was about 20 Leagues to the North of
Bahia;
so I coasted along Shore to the Southward. This Coast is rather low than high, with Sandy-Bays all along by the Sea.
A little within Land are many very white Spots of Sand, appearing like Snow; and the Coast looks very pleasant, being checker'd with Woods and Savanahs. The Trees in general are not tall; but they are green and flourishing. There are many small Houses by the Sea-side, whose Inhabitants are chiefly Fishermen. They come off to Sea on Barklogs, made of several Logs fasten'd side to side, that have one or two Masts with Sails to them. There are two Men in each Barklog, one at either end, having small low Benches, raised a little above the Logs, to sit and fish on, and two Baskets hanging up at the Mast or Masts; one to put their Provisions in, the other for their Fish. Many of these were a Fishing now, and two of them came aboard, of whom I bought some Fish. In the Afternoon we sailed by one very remarkable piece of Land, where, on a small pleasant Hill, there was a Church dedicated to the Virgin
Mary.
See a Sight of some parts of this Coast [Table III. No . 1, 2, 3, 4, 5.] and of the Hill the Church stands on [Table III. No . 1.]
able III.
Brazil
o . 1. Conception of ye V. Mary
o . 2. The Land to ye Southward of ye Chappel, going for Bahia
o . 3. Sight of these Capes W ½ N. from C. Salvador at 3 L. dist.
o . 4. Sight from about 1 M. from ye Fort
o . 5.
Bahia de todos los Santos
Town & Harbour.
o . 6. C. of G. Hope at 10 L. dist. from ye Table Land
o . 7. Thus Shews the Cape Land (A)
o . 8. (A) to ye Southward of ye Table Land, at about 9 L. dist: from the Table
Bahia de todos los Santos
lies in Lat. 13 deg. S. It is the most considerable Town in
Brazil,
whether in respect of the Beauty of its Buildings, its Bulk, or its Trade and Revenue. It has the convenience of a good Harbour that is capable of receiving Ships of the greatest Burthen: The Entrance of which is guarded with a strong Fort standing without the Harbour, call'd
St. Antonio:
A Sight of which I have given [Table III. No . 4.] as it appear'd to us the Afternoon before we came in; and its Lights (which they hang out purposely for Ships) we saw the same Night. There are other smaller Forts that command the Harbour, one of which stands on a Rock in the Sea, about half a mile from the Shore. Close by this Fort all Ships must pass that anchor here, and must ride also within half a mile of it at farthest between this and another Fort (that stands on a Point at the inner part of the Harbour and is called the
Dutch
Fort) but must ride nearest to the former, all along against the Town: where there is good holding Ground, and less exposed to the Southerly Winds that blow very hard here. They commonly set in about
April,
but blow hardest in
May, June, July
and
August:
but the Place where the Ships ride is exposed to these Winds not above 3 Points of the Compass.
Beside these there is another Fort fronting the Harbour, and standing on the Hill upon which the Town stands. The Town it self consists of about 2000 Houses; the major part of which cannot be seen from the Harbour: but so many as appear in sight, with a great mixture of Trees between them, and all placed on a rising Hill, make a very pleasant Prospect; as may be judg'd by the Draught, [Table III. No . 5.]
There are in the Town 13 Churches, Chapels, Hospitals, Convents, beside one Nunnery;
viz.
the
Ecclesia Major
or Cathedral, the Jesuits College, which are the chief, and both in sight from the Harbour:
St. Antonio, Sta. Barbara,
both Parish-Churches; the
Franciscans
Church, and the
Dominicans;
and two Convents of
Carmelites;
a Chapel for Seamen close by the Sea-side, where Boats commonly land, and the Seamen go immediately to Prayers; another Chapel for poor People, at the farther end of the same Street, which runs along by the Shore; and a third Chapel for Soldiers, at the edge of the Town, remote from the Sea; and an Hospital in the middle of the Town. The Nunnery stands at the outer-edge of the Town next the Fields, wherein by Report there are 70 Nuns. Here lives an Archbishop who has a fine Palace in the Town; and the Governor's Palace is a fair Stone-building, and looks handsome to the Sea, tho' but indifferently furnish'd within: both
Spaniards
and
Portuguese
in their Plantations abroad, as I have generally observ'd, affecting to have large Houses; but are little curious about Furniture, except Pictures some of them. The Houses of the Town are 2 or 3 Stories high, the Walls thick and strong, being built with Stone, with a Covering of Pantile; and many of them have Balconies. The principal Streets are large, and all of them pav'd or pitch'd with small Stones. There are also Parades in the most eminent Places of the Town, and many Gardens, as well within the Town as in the Out-parts of it, wherein are Fruit-trees, Herbs, Salladings and Flowers in great variety, but order'd with no great Care nor Art.
The Governor who resides here is call'd
Don John de Lancastario,
being descended, as they say, from our
English Lancaster
Family; and he has a respect for our Nation on that account, calling them his Countrymen. I waited on him several times and always found him very courteous and civil. Here are about 400 Soldiers in Garison. They commonly draw up and exercise in a large Parade before the Governor's House; and many of them attend him when he goes abroad. The Soldiers are decently clad in brown Linen, which in these hot Countries is sar better than Woollen; but I never saw any clad in Linen but only these. Beside the Soldiers in Pay, he can soon have some thousands of Men up in Arms on occasion. The Magazine is on the Skirts of the Town, on a small rising between the Nunnery and the Soldiers Church. 'Tis big enough to hold 2 or 3000 Barrels of Powder; but I was told it seldom has more than 100, sometimes but 80. There are always a Band of Soldiers to guard it, and Centinels looking out both Day and Night.
A great many Merchants always reside at
Bahia;
for 'tis a Place of great Trade: I found here above 30 great Ships from
Europe,
with two of the King of
Portugal
's Ships of War for their Convoy; beside two Ships that Traded to
Africa
only, either to
Angola, Gamba,
or other Places on the Coast of
Guinea;
and abundance of small Craft, that only run to and fro on this Coast, carrying Commodities from one part of
Brazil
to another.
The Merchants that live here are said to be Rich, and to have many
Negro
Slaves in their Houses, both of Men and Women. Themselves are chiefly
Portuguese,
Foreigners having but little Commerce with them; yet here was one Mr.
Cock
an
English
Merchant, a very civil Gentleman and of good Repute. He had a Patent to be our
English
Consul, but did not care to take upon him any Publick Character, because
English
Ships seldom come hither, here having been none in 11 or 12 years before this time. Here was also a
Dane,
and a
French
Merchant or two; but all have their Effects transported to and from
Europe
in
Portuguese
Ships, none of any other Nation being admitted to Trade hither. There is a Custom-house by the Sea-side, where all Goods imported or exported are entred. And to prevent Abuses there are 5 or 6 Boats that take their turns to row about the Harbour, searching any Boats they suspect to be running of Goods.
The chief Commodities that the
European
Ships bring hither, are Linnencloaths, both course and fine; some Woollens also, as Bays, Searges, Perpetuana's,
&c.
Hats, Stockings, both of Silk and Thread, Bisket-bread, Wheat-flower, Wine (chiefly
Port
) Oil-Olive, Butter, Cheese,
&c.
and Salt-beef and Pork would there also be good Commodities. They bring hither also Iron, and all sorts of Iron-Tools; Pewter-Vessels of all sorts, as Dishes, Plates, Spoons,
&c.
Lookingglasses, Beads, and other Toys; and the Ships that touch at
St. Jago
bring thence, as I said, Cotton cloath, which is afterwards sent to
Angola.
The
European
Ships carry from hence Sugar, Tobacco, either in Roll or Snuff, never in Leaf, that I know of: These are the Staple Commodities. Besides which, here are Dye-woods, as Fustick,
&c.
with Woods for other uses, as speckled Wood,
Brazil,
&c. They also carry home raw Hides, Tallow, Train-Oil of Whales,
&c.
Here are also kept tame Monkeys, Parrots, Parakites,
&c.
which the Seamen carry home.
The Sugar of this Country is much better than that which we bring home from our Plantations: for all the Sugar that is made here is clay'd, which makes it whiter and finer than our
Muscovada,
as we call our unrefin'd Sugar. Our Planters seldom refine any with Clay, unless sometimes a little to send home as Presents for their Friends in
England.
Their way of doing it is by taking some of the whitest Clay and mixing it with Water, 'till 'tis like Cream. With this they fill up the Pans of Sugar, that are sunk 2 or 3 Inches below the Brim by the draining of the Molosses out of it: First scraping off the thin hard Crust of the Sugar that lies at the top, and would hinder the Water of the Clay from soaking through the Sugar of the Pan. The refining is made by this Percolation. For 10 or 12 days time that the Clayish Liquor lies soaking down the Pan, the white Water whitens the Sugar as it passes thro' it; and the gross Body of the Clay it self grows hard on the top, and may be taken off at pleasure; when scraping off with a Knife the very upper part of the Sugar, which will be a little sullied, that which is underneath will be White almost to the bottom: and such as is called
Brazil
Sugar is thus Whitened. When I was here this Sugar was sold for 50
s. per
100
lb
. and the Bottoms of the Pots, which is very course Sugar, for about 20
s. per
100
lb
. both sorts being then scarce; for here was not enough to lade the Ships, and therefore some of them were to lie here till the next Season.
The
European
Ships commonly arrive here in
February
or
March,
and they have generally quick Passages; finding at that time of the Year brisk Gales to bring them to the Line, little Trouble, then, in crossing it, and brisk E. N. E. Winds afterwards to bring them hither. They commonly return from hence about the latter end of
May,
or in
June.
'Twas said when I was here that the Ships would sail hence the 20th day of
May;
and therefore they were all very busy, some in taking in their Goods, others in Careening and making themselves ready. The Ships that come hither usually Careen at their first coming; here being a Hulk belonging to the King for that purpose. This Hulk is under the charge of the Superintendent I spoke of, who has a certain Sum of Mony for every Ship that Careens by her. He also provides Firing and other Necessaries for that purpose: and the Ships do commonly hire of the Merchants here each 2 Cables to moor by all the time they lie here, and so save their own Hempen Cables; for these are made of a sort of Hair, that grows on a certain kind of Trees, hanging down from the Top of their Bodies, and is very like the black
Coyre
in the
East-Indies,
if not the same. These Cables are strong and lasting: And so much for the
European
Ships.
The Ships that use the
Guinea
-Trade are small Vessels in comparison of the former. They carry out from hence Rum, Sugar, the Cotton-cloaths of St.
Jago,
Beads,
&c.
and bring in return, Gold, Ivory, and Slaves; making very good returns.
The small Craft that belong to this Town are chiefly imployed in carrying
European
Goods from
Bahia,
the Center of the
Brasilian
Trade, to the other Places on this Coast; bringing back hither Sugar, Tobacco,
&c.
They are sailed chiefly with Negro-Slaves; and about
Christmas
these are mostly imployed in Whale-killing: for about that time of the Year a sort Whales, as they call them, are very thick on this Coast. They come in also into the Harbours and inland Lakes, where the Seamen go out and kill them. The Fat of them is boyled to Oyl; the Lean is eaten by the Slaves and poor People: And I was told by one that had frequently eaten of it that the Flesh was very sweet and wholesome. These are said to be but small Whales: yet here are so many, and so easily kill'd, that they get a great deal of Mony by it. Those that strike them buy their Licence for it of the King: And I was informed that he receives 30000 Dollars
per Annum
for this Fishery. All the small Vessels that use this Coasting Traffick are built here; and so are some Men of War also for the King'sService. There was one a Building when I was here, a Ship of 40 or 50 Guns: And the Timber of this Country is very good and proper for this purpose. I was told it was very strong, and more durable than any we have in
Europe:
and they have enough of it. As for their Ships that use the
European
Trade, some of them that I saw there were
English
built, taken from us by the
French
during the late War, and sold by them to the
Portugese.
Besides Merchants and others that Trade by Sea from this Port, here are other pretty Wealthy Men, and several Artificers and Trades-men of most sorts, who by Labour and Industry maintain themselves very well; especially such as can arrive at the purchase of a
Negro
-Slave or two. And indeed, excepting People of the lowest degree of all, here are scarce any but what keep Slaves in their Houses. The Richer Sort, besides the Slaves of both Sexes whom they keep for servile Uses in their Houses, have Men-slaves who wait on them abroad, for State; either running by their Horses-sides when they ride out, or to carry them to and fro on their Shoulders in the Town when they make short Visits near home. Every Gentleman or Merchant is provided with Things necessary for this sort of Carriage. The main Thing is a pretty large Cotton Hammock of the
West-India
Fashion, but mostly dyed Blue, with large Fringes of the same, hanging down on each side. This is carry'd on the
Negro
's Shoulders by the help of a Bambo about 12 or 14 Foot long, to which the Hammock is hung; and a Covering comes over the Pole, hanging down on each side like a Curtain: So that the Person so carry'd cannot be seen unless he pleases; but may either ly down, having Pillows for his Head; or may sit up by being a little supported with these Pillows, and by letting both his Legs hang out over one side of the Hammock. When he hath a mind to be seen he puts by his Curtain, and salutes every one of his Acquaintance whom he meets in the Streets: for they take a piece of Pride in greeting one another from their Hammocks, and will hold long Conferences thus in the Streets: But then their two Slaves who carry the Hammock have each a strong well-made Staff, with a fine Iron Fork at the upper end, and a sharp Iron below, like the Rest for a Musket, which they stick fast in the Ground, and let the Pole or Bambo of the Hammock rest upon them, till their Masters Business or the Complement is over. There is scarce a Man of any fashion, especially a Woman, will pass the Streets but so carried in a Hammock. The chief Mechanick Traders here, are Smiths, Hatters, Shoemakers, Tanners, Sawyers, Carpenters, Coopers,
&c.
Here are also Taylors, Butchers,
&c.
which last kill the Bullocks very dexterously, sticking them at one Blow with a sharp-pointed Knife in the Nape of the Neck, having first drawn them close to a Rail; but they dress them very slovenly. It being
Lent
when I came hither there was no buying any Flesh till
Easter-Eve,
when a great number of Bullocks were kill'd at once in the Slaughter-houses within the Town, Men, Women and Children flocking thither with great Joy to buy, and a multitude of Dogs, almost starv'd, following them; for whom the Meat seem'd fittest, it was so Lean. All these Trades-men buy
Negro
's, and train them up to their several Imployments, which is a great help to them: and they having so frequent Trade to
Angola,
and other parts of
Guinea,
they have a constant supply of Blacks both for their Plantations and Town. These Slaves are very useful in this Place for Carriage, as Porters; for as here is a great Trade by Sea, and the Landing-place is at the foot of a Hill, too steep for drawing with Carts, so there is great need of Slaves to carry Goods up into the Town, especially for the inferiour sort: but the Merchants have also the Convenience of a great Crane that goes with Ropes or Pullees, one end of which goes up while the other goes down. The House in which this Crane is stands on the Brow of the Hill towards the Sea, hanging over the Precipice: and there are Planks set shelving against the Bank from thence to the Bottom, against which the Goods lean or slide as they are hoisted up or let down. The
Negro
-Slaves in this Town are so numerous, that they make up the greatest part or bulk of the Inhabitants: Every House, as I said, having some, both Men and Women, of them. Many of the
Portuguese,
who are Batchelors, keep of these black Women for Misses, tho' they know the danger they are in of being poyson'd by them, if ever they give them any occasion of Jealousy. A Gentleman of my Acquaintance, who had been familiar with his Cook-maid, lay under some such Apprehensions from her when I was there. These Slaves also of either Sex will easily be engaged to do any sort of Mischief; even to Murder, if they are hired to do it, especially in the Night: for which Reason, I kept my Men on board as much as I could; for one of the
French
King's Ships being here had several Men murder'd by them in the Night, as I was credibly inform'd.
Having given this account of the Town of
Bahia,
I shall next say somewhat of the Country. There is a Salt-water Lake runs 40 Leagues, as I was told, up the Country, N. W. from the Sea, leaving the Town and
Dutch
Fort on the Starboard fide. The Country all round about is for the most part a pretty flat even Ground, not high, nor yet very low: It is well watered with Rivers, Brooks and Springs, neither wants it for good Harbours, Navigable Creeks, and good Bays for Ships to ride in. The Soil in general is good, naturally producing very latge Trees of divers sorts, and fit for any uses. The Savannahs also are loaden with Grass, Herbs, and many sorts of smaller Vegetables; and being cultivated, produce any thing that is proper for those hot Countrys, as Sugar-Canes, Cotton, Indico, Tobacco, Maiz, Fruit-Trees of several kinds, and Eatable Roots of all sorts. Of the several kinds of Trees that are here, I shall give an account of some, as I had it partly from an Inhabitant of
Bahia,
and partly from my knowledge of them otherwise,
viz. Sapiera, Vermiatico, Comesserie, Guitteba, Serrie,
as they were pronounc'd to me, three sorts of
Mangrove,
speckled Wood, Fustick, Cotton-Trees of three sorts,
&c.
together with Fruit-Trees of divers sorts that grow wild, beside such as are planted.
Of Timber-Trees, the
Sapiera
is said to be large and tall; it is very good Timber, and is made use of in building of Houses; so is the
Vermiatico,
a tall streight-bodied Tree, of which they make Plank 2 Foot broad, and they also make Canoa's with it.
Comesserie
and
Guitteba
are chiesly used in building Ships; these are as much esteemed here, as Oaks are in
England,
and they say either sort is harder and more durable than Oak. The
Serrie
is a sort of Tree much like Elm, very durable in water. Here are also all the three sorts of
Mangrove
Trees,
viz.
the Red, the White, and the Black, which I have described [
Vol.
I.
p.
54.] The Bark of the Red Mangrove, is here used for Tanning of Leather, and they have great Tan-pits for it. The Black Mangrove grows larger here than in the
West-Indies,
and of it they make good Plank. The White Mangrove is larger and tougher than in the
West-Indies;
of these they make Masts and Yards for Barks.
There grow here Wild or Bastard Coco Nut Trees, neither so large nor so tall as the common ones in the
East
or
West-Indies.
They bear Nuts as the others, but not a quarter so big as the right Coco-Nuts. The shell is full of Kernel, without any hollow Place or Water in it; and the Kernel is sweet and wholesome, but very hard both for the Teeth and for Digestion. These Nuts are in much esteem for making Beads for
Pater-noster
's, Boles of Tobacco-pipes, and other Toys: and every small Shop here has a great many of them to sell. At the top of these Bastard Coco-trees, among the Branches, there grows a sort of long black Thread like Horse-hair, but much longer, which by the
Portuguese
is called
Tresabo.
Of this they make Cables which are very serviceable, strong and lasting; for they will not rot as Cables made of Hemp, tho' they ly exposed both to Wet and Heat. These are the Cables which I said they keep in their Harbours here, to let to hire to
European
Ships, and resemble the
Coyre
-Cables.
Here are three sorts of Cotton Trees that bear Silk-cotton. One sort is such as I have formerly described, [Vol. I. p. 165.] by the Name of the Cotton-tree. The other two sorts I never saw any where but here. The Trees of these latter sorts are but small in comparison of the former, which are reckon'd the biggest in all the
West-India
Woods; yet are however of a good bigness and heighth. One of these last sorts is not so full of Branches as the other of them; neither do they produce their Fruit the same time of the Year: for one sort had its Fruit just ripe, and was shedding its Leaves while the other sort was yet green, and its Fruit small and growing, having but newly done blossoming; the Tree being as full of young Fruit as an Apple-Tree ordinarily in
England.
These last yield very large Pods, about 6 inches long, and as big as a Man's Arm. It is ripe in
September
and
October;
then the Pod opens, and the Cotton bursts out in a great Lump as big as a Man's Head. They gather these Pods before they open: otherways it would fly all away. It opens as well after 'tis gathered; and then they take out the Cotton, and preserve it to sill Pillows and Bolsters, for which use 'tis very much esteemed: but 'tis fit for nothing else, being so short that it cannot be spun. 'Tis of a tawney Colour; and the Seeds are black, very round, and as big as a white Pea. The other sort is ripe in
March
or
April.
The Fruit or Pod is like a large Apple, and very round. The out-side Shell is as thick as the top of ones Finger. Within this there is a very thin whitish Bag or Skin which incloseth the Cotton. When the Cotton-Apple is ripe the outer thick green Shell splits it self into 5 equal parts from Stemb to Tail, and drops off, leaving the Cotton hanging upon the Stemb, only pent up in its fine Bag. A day or two afterwards the Cotton swells by the heat of the Sun, breaks the Bag and bursts out, as big as a Man's Head: And then as the Wind blows 'tis by degrees driven away, a little at a time, out of the Bag that still hangs upon the Stemb, and is scatter'd about the Fields; the Bag soon following the Cotton, and the Stemb the Bag. Here is also a little of the right
West-India
Cotton Shrub; but none of the Cotton is exported, nor do they make much Cloth of it.
This Country produces great variety of fine Fruits, as very good Oranges of 3 or 4 sorts; (especially one sort of
China
Oranges;) Limes in abundance, Pomgranets, Pomecitrons, Plantains, Bonano's, right Coco-nuts, Guava's, Coco-plumbs, (call'd here
Munsheroo
's) Wild-Grapes, such as I have describ'd [Vol. II. Part 2. p. 46.] beside such Grapes as grow in
Europe
Here are also Hog-plumbs, Custard-Apples,
Sour-sops, Cashews, Papah
's (called here
Mamoons
)
Jennipah
's (called here
Jenni-papah
's) Manchineel-Apples and Mango's. Mango's are yet but rare here: I saw none of them but in the
Jesuit
's Garden, which has a great many fine Fruits, and some Cinamon-trees. These, both of them, were first brought from the
East-Indies,
and they thrive here very well: So do Pumplemusses, brought also from thence; and both
China
and
Sevil
Oranges are here very plentiful as well as good.
The
Sour-sop
(as we call it) is a large Fruit as big as a Man's Head, of a long or oval Shape, and of a green Colour; but one side is Yellowish when ripe. The outside Rind or Coat is pretty thick, and very rough, with small sharp Knobs; the inside is full of spungy Pulp, within which also are many black Seeds or Kernels, in shape and bigness like a Pumkin-seed. The Pulp is very juicy, of a pleasant Taste, and wholesome. You suck the Juice out of the Pulp, and so spit it out. The Tree or Shrub that bears this Fruit grows about 10 or 12 Foot high, with a small short Body; the Branches growing pretty strait up; for I did never see any of them spread abroad. The Twigs are slender and tough; and so is the Stemb of the Fruit. This Fruit grows also both in the
East
and
VVest-Indies.
The
Cashew
is a Fruit as big as a Pippin, pretty long, and bigger near the Stemb than at the other end, growing tapering. The Rind is smooth and thin, of a red and yellow Colour. The Seed of this Fruit grows at the end of it; 'tis of an Olive Colour shaped like a Bean, and about the same bigness, but not altogether so flat. The Tree is as big as an Apple tree, with Branches not thick, yet spreading off. The Boughs are gross, the Leaves broad and round, and in substance pretty thick. This Fruit is soft and spongy when ripe, and so full of Juice that in biting it the Juice will run out on both sides of ones Mouths. It is very pleasant, and gratefully rough on the Tongue; and is accounted a very wholesome Fruit. This grows both in the
East
and
West Indies,
where I have seen and eaten of it.
The
Jenipah
or
Jenipapah
is a sort of Fruit of the Calabash or Gourd-kind. It is about the bigness of a Duck-Egg, and somewhat of an Oval Shape; and is of a grey Colour. The Shell is not altogether so thick nor hard as a Calabash: 'Tis full of whitish Pulp mixt with small flat Seeds; and both Pulp and Seeds must be taken into the Mouth, where sucking out the Pulp you spit out Seeds. It is of a sharp and pleasing Taste, and is very innocent. The Tree that bears it is much like an Ash, strait-bodied, and of a good heighth; clean from Limbs till near the top, where there branches forth a small Head. The Rind is of a pale grey, and so is the Fruit. We us'd of this Tree to make Helves or Handles for Axes (for which it is very proper) in the Bay of
Campeachy;
where I have seen of them, and no where else but here.
Beside these, here are many sorts of Fruits which I have not met with any where but here; as
Arisah
's,
Mericasah
's,
Petango
's,
&c. Arisah
's are an excellent Fruit, not much bigger than a large Cherry; shaped like a Catherine-Pear, being small at the Stemb, and swelling bigger towards the end. They are of a greenish colour, and have small Seeds as big as Mustard-Seeds. They are somewhat tart, yet pleasant, and very wholsom, and may be eaten by sick People.
Mericasah
's, are an excellent Fruit, of which there are two sorts; one growing on a small Tree or Shrub, which is counted the best; the other growing on a kind of Shrub like a Vine, which they plant about Arbours to make a shade, having many broad Leaves. The Fruit is as big as a small Orange, round and green. When they are ripe they are soft and fit to eat; full of white pulp mixt thick with little black Seeds, and there is no separating one from the other, till they are in your Mouth; when you suck in the white Pulp and spit out the Stones. They are tart, pleasant, and very wholsome.
Petango
's are a small red Fruit, that grow also on small Trees, and are as big as Cherries, but not so Globular, having one flat side, and also 5 or 6 small protulerant Ridges. 'Tis a very pleasant tart Fruit, and has a pretty large flattish Stone in the middle.
Petumbo
's, are a yellow Fruit (growing on a shrub like a Vine) bigger than Cherries, with a pretty large Stone: These are sweet, but rough in the Mouth.
Mungaroo
's, are a Fruit as big as Cherries, red on one side and white on the other side: They are said to be full of small Seeds, which are commonly swallowed in eating them.
Muckishaw
's, are said to be a Fruit as big as Crab-Apples, growing on large Trees. They have also small Seeds in the middle, and are well tasted.
Ingwa
's, are a Fruit like the Locust-Fruit, 4 Inches long, and one broad. They grow on high Trees.
Otee,
is a Fruit as big as a large Coco-Nut. It hath a Husk on the outside, and a large Stone within, and is a accounted a very fine Fruit.
Musteran-de-ova
's, are a round Fruit as big as large Hazel-Nuts, cover'd with thin brittle shells of a blackish colour: They have a small Stone in the middle, inclosed within a black pulpy substance, which is of a pleasant taste. The outside shell is chewed with the Fruit, and spit out with the Stone, when the pulp is suck'd from them. The Tree that bears this Fruit is tall, large, and very hard Wood. I have not seen any of these five last named Fruits, but had them thus described to me by an
Irish
Inhabitant of
Bahia;
tho' as to this last, I am apt to believe, I may have both seen and eaten of them in
Achin
in
Sumatra.
Palm-Berries
(called here
Dendees
) grow plentifully about
Bahia;
the largest are as big as Wall-nuts; they grow in bunches on the top of the Body of the Tree, among the Roots of the Branches or Leaves, as all Fruits of the Palm kind do. These are the same kind of Berries or Nuts as those they make the Palm-Oyl with on the Coast of
Guinea,
where they abound: And I was told that they make Oyl with them here also. They sometimes roast and eat them; but when I had one roasted to prove it, I did not like it.
Physick-Nuts,
as our Seamen call them, are called here
Pineon;
and
Agnus Castus
is called here
Carrepat:
These both grow here: so do
Mendibees,
a Fruit like
Physick-Nuts.
They scorch them in a Pan over the fire before they eat them.
Here are also great plenty of Cabbage-Trees, and other Fruits, which I did not get information about, and which I had not the opportunity of seeing; because this was not the Season, it being our Spring, and consequently their Autumn, when their best Fruits were gone, tho' some were left. However I saw abundance of wild Berries in the Woods and Field, but I could not learn their Names or Nature.
They have withal good plenty of ground Fruit, as
Callavances,
Pine-Apples, Pumkins, Water-Melons, Musk-Melons, Cucumbers; and Roots, as Yams, Potato's Cassava's,
&c.
Garden Herbs also good store; as Cabbages, Turnips, Onions, Leeks, and abundance of other Salading, and for the Pot. Drugs of several sorts,
viz.
Sassafras, Snake-Root,
&c.
Beside the Woods I mentioned for Dying, and other Uses, as Fustick, Speckled-wood,
&c.
I brought home with me from hence a good number of Plants, dried between the leaves of Books; of some of the choicest of which, that are not spoil'd, I may give a Specimen at the
End
of the
Book.
Here are said to be great plenty and variety of Wild-Fowl,
viz. Yemma
's,
Maccaw
's (which are called here
Jackoo
's, and are a larger sort of Parrots, and scarcer) Parrots, Parakites, Flamingo's, Carrion-Crows, Chattering-Crows, Cockrecoes, Bill-Birds finely painted, Corresoes, Doves, Pigeons,
Jenetees,
Clocking-Hens, Crabcatchers, Galdens, Currecoo's, Moscovy Ducks, common Ducks, Widgeons, Teal, Curlews, Men of War Birds, Booby's, Noddy's, Pelicans,
&c.
The
Yemma
is bigger than a Swan, greyfeathered, with a long thick sharp-pointed Bill.
The Carrion-Crow and Chattering-Crows, are called here
Mackeraw
's, and are like those I described in the
West-Indies,
[
Vol.
II.
Part
II.
p.
67.] The Bill of the Chattering-Crow is black, and the Upper-Bill is round, bending downwards like a Hawks-Bill, rising up in a ridge almost semicircular, and very sharp, both at the Ridge or Convexity, and at the Point or Extremity: The Lower-Bill is flat and shuts even with it. I was told by a
Portegueze
here, that their
Negro
-Wenches make Love-Potions with these Birds. And the
Portuguese
care not to let them have any of these Birds, to keep them from that Superstition: As I found one Afternoon when I was in the Fields with a Padre and another, who shot two of them, and hid them, as they said, for that reason. They are not good Food, but their Bills are reckoned a good Antidote against Poison.
The
Bill-Birds
are so called by the
English,
from their monstrous Bills, which are as big as their Bodies. I saw none of these Birds here, but saw several of the Breasts flea'd off and dried, for the beauty of them; the Feathers were curiously colour'd with red, yellow, and Orange-colour.
The
Curreso
's (called here
Mackeraw
's) are such as are in the Bay of
Campeachy
[Vol. 2. Part 2. p. 67.]
Turtle-Doves
are in great plenty here; and two sorts of Wild Pigeons; the one sort blackish, the other a light grey: The blackish or dark grey are the bigger, being as large as our Wood-Quests, or Wood-Pigeons in
England.
Both sorts are very good Meat; and are in such plenty from
May
till
September,
that a Man may shoot 8 or 10 Dozen in several Shots at one standing, in a close misty Morning, when they come to seed on Berries that grow in the Woods.
The
Jenetee
is a Bird as big as a Lark, with blackish Feathers, and yellow Legs and Feet. 'Tis accounted very wholsom Food.
Clocking-Hens, are much like the Crabcatchers, which I have described [
Vol.
II.
Part
2.
p.
70.] but the Legs are not altogether so long. They keep always in swampy wet places, tho' their Claws are like Land-Fowl's Claws. They make a Noise or
Cluck
like our Brood-Hens, or Dunghil-Hens, when they have Chickens, and for that reason they are called by the
English
Clocking Hens. There are many of them in the Bay of
Campeachy
(tho' I omitted to speak of them there) and elsewhere in the
West-Indies.
There are both here and there four sorts of these longleg'd Fowls, near a-kin to each other, as so many
Sub-Species
of the same Kind;
viz.
Crab catchers, Clocking-Hens, Galdens (which three are in shape and colour like Herons in
England,
but less; the
Galden,
the biggest of the three, the Crabcatcher the smallest;) and a fourth sort which are black, but shaped like the other, having long Legs and short Tails; these are about the bigness of
Crab-catchers,
and feed as they do.
Currecoos,
are Water Fowls, as big as pretty large Chickens, of a bluish colour, with short Legs and Tail; they feed also in swampy Ground, and are very good Meat. I have not seen of them elsewhere.
The Wild-Ducks here are said to be of two sorts, the
Muscovy,
and the common-Ducks. In the wet Season here are abundance of them, but in the dry time but few. Wigeon and Teal also are said to be in great plenty here in the wet Season.
To the Southward of
Bahia
there are also Ostridges in great plenty, tho', 'tis said, they are not so large as those of
Africa:
They are found chiefly in the Southern Parts of
Brasil,
especially among the large Savanahs near the River of
Plate;
and from thence further South towards the Streights of
Magellan.
As for Tame Fowl at
Bahia,
the chief beside their Ducks, are Dunghil-Fowls, os which they have two sorts; one sort much of the size of our Cocks and Hens; the other very large: and the Feathers of these last are a long time coming forth; so that you see them very naked when half grown; but when they are full grown and well feathered, they appear very large Fowls, as indeed they are; neither do they want for price; for they are sold at
Bahia
sor half a Crown or three Shillings apiece, just as they are brought first to Market out of the Countrey, when they are so lean as to be scarce fit to Eat.
The Land Animals here are Horses, black Cattle, Sheep, Goats, Rabbits, Hogs, Leopards, Tigers, Foxes, Monkeys, Pecary (a sort of wild Hogs, called here
Pica
) Armadillo, Alligaters, Guano's (called
Quittee
) Lizards, Serpents, Toads, Frogs, and a sort of Amphibious Creatures called by the
Portuguese Cuchora's de agua,
in
English
Water-Dogs.
The Leopards and Tigers of this Country are said to be large and very fierce: But here on the Coast they are either destroyed, or driven back towards the heart of the Country; and therefore are seldom found but in the Borders and Out-plantations, where they oftentimes do Mischief. Here are three or four sorts of Monkeys, of different Sizes and Colours. One sort is very large; and another sort is very small: These last are ugly in Shape and Feature, and have a strong Scent of Musk.
Here are several sorts of Serpents, many of them vastly great, and most of them very venomous: As the Rattle-snake for one: and for Venome, a small Green Snake is bad enough, no bigger than the Stemb of a Tobacco-pipe, and about 18 Inches long, very common here.
They have here also the
Amphisbaena,
or Two-headed Snake, of a grey Colour, mixt with blackish Stripes, whose Bite is reckon'd to be incurable. 'Tis said to be blind, tho' it has two small Specks in each Head like Eyes: but whether it sees or not I cannot tell. They say it lives like a Mole, mostly under Ground; and that when it is found above Ground it is easily kill'd, because it moves but slowly: Neither is its Sight (if it hath any) so good as to discern any one that comes near to Kill as few of these Creatures fly at a Man, or hurt him but when he comes in their Way. 'Tis about 14 Inches long, and about the bigness of the inner joint of a Man's middle Finger; being of one and the same bigness from one end to the other, with a Head at each end, (as they said; for I cannot vouch it, for one I had was cut short at one end) and both alike in shape and bigness; and 'tis said to move with either Head formost, indifferently; whence 'tis called by the
Portugueze, Cobra de dos Cabesas,
the Snake with two Heads.
The small black Snake is a very venomous Creature.
There is also a grey Snake, with red and brown Spots all over its Back. 'Tis as big as a Man's Arm, and about 3 Foot long, and is said to be venomous. I saw one of these.
Here are two sorts of very large Snakes or Serpents: One of 'em a Land-snake, the other a Water-snake. The Land-snake is of a grey colour, and about 18 or 20 Foot long: Not very Venomous, but Ravenous. I was promised the sight of one of their Skins, but wanted opportunity.
The Water-snake is said to be near 30 Foot long. These live wholly in the Water, either in large Rivers, or great Lakes, and prey upon any Creature that comes within their reach, be it Man or Beast. They draw their Prey to them with their Tails: for when they see any thing on the Banks of the River or Lake where they lurk, they swing about their Tails 10 or 12 Foot over the Bank; and whatever stands within their Sweep is snatcht with great Violence into the River, and drowned by them. Nay 'tis reported very credibly that if they see only a shade of any Animal at all on the Water, they will flourish their Tails to bring in the Man or Beast whose shade they see, and are oftentimes too successful in it. Wherefore Men that have Business near any place where these Water-Monsters are suspected to lurk, are always provided with a Gun, which they often fire, and that scares them away, or keeps them quiet. They are said to have great Heads, and strong Teeth about 6 Inches long. I was told by an
Irish
Man who lived here, that his Wives Father was very near being taken by one of them about the time of my first Arrival here, when his Father was with him up in the Country: for the Beast flourisht his Tail for him, but came not nigh enough by a yard or two; however it scared him sufficiently.
The Amphibious Creatures here which I said are called by the
Portuguese Cuchora
's
de Agua,
or Water-dogs, are said to be as big as small Mastives, and are all hairy and shaggy from Head to Tail. They have 4 short Legs, a pretty long Head and short Tail; and are of a blackish colour. They live in fresh Water-ponds, and oftentimes come ashore and Sun themselves; but retire to the Water if assaulted. They are eaten, and said to be good Food. Several of these Creatures which I have now spoken of I have not seen, but inform'd my self about them while I was here at
Bahia,
from sober and sensible Persons among the Inhabitants, among whom I met with some that could speak
English.
In the Sea upon this Coast there is great store and diversity of Fish,
viz.
Jew-fish, for which there is a great Market at
Bahia
in
Lent:
Tarpom's, Mullets, Groopers, Snooks, Gar-fish (called here
Goolion
's),
Gorasses,
Barrama's, Coquinda's, Cavallie's, Cuchora's (or Dog-fish) Conger-Eeles, Herrings (as I was told) the
Serrew,
the
Olio de Boy,
(I write and spell them just as they were named to me) Whales,
&c.
Here is also Shell-fish (tho' in less plenty about
Bahia
than on other parts of the Coast)
viz.
Lobsters, Craw-fish, Shrimps, Crabs, Oysters of the common sort, Conchs, Wilks, Cockles, Muscles, Perriwinkles,
&c.
Here are three sorts of Sea-Turtle,
viz.
Hawksbill, Loggerhead, and Green: but none of them are in any esteem, neither
Spaniards
nor
Portuguese
loving them: Nay they have a great Antipathy against them, and would much rather eat a Porpose, tho' our
English
count the Green Turtle very extraordinary Food. The Reason that is commonly given in the
West-Indies
for the
Spaniards
not caring to eat of them, is the fear they have lest being usually foul-bodied, and many of them pox'd (lying, as they do, so promiscuously with their Negrines and other Sheslaves) they should break out loathsomely like Lepers; which this sort of Food, 'tis said, does much incline Men to do, searching the Body, and driving out any such gross Humors: for which cause many of our
English
Valetudinarians have gone from
Jamaica
(tho' there they have also Turtle) to the I.
Caimanes,
at the Layingtime, to live wholly upon Turtle that then abound there; purposely to have their Bodies scour'd by this Food, and their Distempers driven out: and have been said to have found many of them good Success in it. But this by the way. The Hawksbill-Turtle on this Coast of
Brazil
is most sought after of any, for its Shell, which by Report of those I have convers'd with at
Bahia,
is the clearest and best-clouded Tortoise-shell in the World. I had some of it shewn me, which was indeed as good as I ever saw. They get a pretty deal of it in some Parts on this Coast; but 'tis very dear.
Besides this Port of
Bahia de todos los Santos,
there are two more principal Ports on
Brazil,
where
European
Ships Trade,
viz. Pernambuc
and
Ria Janeira;
and I was told that there go as many Ships to each of these Places as to
Bahia,
and two Men of War to each Place for their Convoys. Of the other Ports in this Country none is of greater Note than that of St.
Paul
's, where they gather much Gold; but the Inhabitants are said to be a sort of
Banditti,
or loose People that live under no Government: but their Gold brings them all sorts of Commodities that they need, as Cloths, Arms, Ammunition,
&c.
The Town is said to be large and strong.
CHAP. III.
The A.'s Stay and Business at
Bahia:
Of the Winds, and Seasons of the Year there. His departure for
N. Holland. C. Salvadore.
The Winds on the
Brasilian
Coast; and
Abrohlo
Shoal; Fish, and Birds: The Shear-water Bird, and Cooking of Sharks. Excessive number of Birds about a dead Whale; of the Pintado-Bird, and the Petrel,
&c.
Of a Bird that shews the
C. of G. Hope
to be near: of the Seareckonings, and
Variations:
and a
Table
of all the
Variations
observ'd in this Voyage. Occurrences near the
Cape;
and the A.'s passing by it. Of the Westerly Winds beyond it: A Storm, and its Presages. The A.'s Course to
N. Holland;
and Signs of approaching it. Another
Abrohlo
Shole and Storm, and the A.'s Arrival on part of
N. Holland.
That part describ'd; and
Shark
's Bay, where he first Anchors. Of the Land there, Vegetables, Birds,
&c.
A particular sort of
Guano:
Fish, and beautiful Shells; Turtle, large Shark, and Water-Serpents. The A.'s removing to another part of
N. Holland:
Dolphins, Whales, and more Sea-Serpents: and of a
Passage
or
Streight
suspected here: Of the Vegetables, Birds, and Fish. He anchors on a third Part of
N. Holland,
and digs Wells, but brackish. Of the Inhabitants there, the great Tides, the Vegetables and Animals,
&c.
MY stay here at
Bahia
was about a Month: during which time the Vice Roy of
Goa
came hither from thence in a great Ship, said to be richly laden with all sorts of
India
Goods; but she did not break Bulk here, being bound home for
Lisbon:
only the Vice-Roy intended to refresh his Men (of whom he had lost many, and most of the rest were very sickly, having been 4 Months in their Voyage hither) and so to take in Water, and depart for
Europe,
in Company with the other
Portuguese
Ships thither Bound; who had Orders to be ready to Sail by the twentieth of
May.
He desir'd me to carry a Letter for him, directed to his Successor, the new Vice-Roy of
Goa:
Which I did; sending it thither afterwards by Captain
Hammond,
whom I found near the
Cape of Good Hope.
The Refreshing my Men, and taking in Water, was the main also of my Business here; beside the having the better opportunity to compose the Disorders among my Crew: Which, as I have before related, were grown to so great a Heighth, that they could not without great Difficulty be appeased: However, finding Opportunity, during my stay in this Place, to allay in some measure the Ferment that had been raised among my Men, I now set my self to provide for the carrying on of my Voyage with more Heart than before, and put all Hands to work, in order to it, as fast as the backwardness of my Men would permit; who shew'd continually their unwillingness to proceed farther. Besides, their Heads were generally fill'd with strange Notions of Southerly Winds that were now setting in (and there had been already some Flurries of them) which, as they surmiz'd, would hinder any farther Attempts of going on to the Southward, so long as they should last.
The Winds begin to shift here in
April
and
September,
and the Seasons of the Year (the Dry and the Wet) alter with them. In
April
the Southerly Winds make their entrance on this Coast, bringing in the Wet Season, with violent Tornado's, Thunder and Lightning, and much Rain. In
September
the other Coasting Trade, at East North East comes in, and clears the Sky, bringing fair Weather. This, as to the change of Wind, is what I have observ'd Vol. II. Part 3. p. 19. but as to the change of Weather accompanying it so exactly here at
Bahia,
this is a particular Exception to what I have Experienc'd in all other Places of South Latitudes that I have been in between the
Tropicks,
or those I have heard of; for there the Dry Seasons sets in, in
April,
and the Wet about
October
or
November,
sooner or later (as I have said that they are, in South Latitudes, the Reverse of the Seasons, or Weather, in the same Months in N. Latitudes Vol. II. Part 3. p. 77.) whereas on this Coast of
Brazil,
the Wet Season comes in in
April,
at the same time that it doth in N. Latitudes, and the Dry (as I have said here) in
September;
the Rains here not lasting so far in the year as in other Places: for in
September
the Weather is usually so fair, that in the latter part of that Month they begin to cut their Sugar-Canes here, as I was told; for I enquired particularly about the Seasons: Though this, as to the Season of cutting of Canes, which I was now assur'd to be in
September,
agrees not very well with what I was formerly told [Vol. II. Part 3. p. 82.] that in
Brazil
they cut the Canes in
July.
And so, as to what is said a little lower in the same Page, that in managing their Canes they are not confin'd to the Seasons, this ought to have been express'd only of Planting them; for they never cut them but in the Dry Season.
But to return to the Southerly Winds, which came in (as I expected they would) while I was here: These daunted my Ship's Company very much, tho' I had told them they were to look for them: But they being ignorant as to what I told them farther, that these were only Coasting-Winds, sweeping the Shore to about 40 or 50 Leagues in breadth from it; and imagining that they had blown so all the
ea over, between
America
and
Africa;
and being confirm'd in this their Opinion by the
Portuguese
Pilots of the
European
Ships, with whom several of my Officers conversed much, and who were themselves as ignorant that these were only Coasting Trade-Winds (themselves going away before them, in their return homewards, till they cross the Line, and so having no experience of the Breadth of them) being thus possess'd with a Conceit that we could not Sail from hence till
September;
this made them still the more remiss in their Duties, and very listless to the getting Things in a readiness for our Departure. However I was the more diligent my Self to have the Ship scrub'd, and to send my Water-Casks ashore to get them trim'd, my Beer being now out. I went also to the Governor to get my Water fill'd; sor here being but one Watering-place (and the Water running low, now at the end of the Dry Season) it was always so crouded with the
European
Ships Boats, who were preparing to be gone, that my Men could seldom come nigh it, till the Governor very kindly sent an Officer to clear the Water-place for my Men, and to stay there till my Wates-Casks were all full, whom I satisfied sor his Pains. Here I also got Aboard 9 or 10 Tun of Ballast, and made my Boatswain fit the Rigging that was amiss: and I enquired also of my particular Officers whose Business it was, whether they wanted any Stores, especially Pitch and Tar; for that here I wou'd supply my self before I proceeded any farther: but they say they had enough, tho' it did not afterwards prove so.
I commonly went ashore every day, either upon Business, or to recreate my self in the Fields, which were very pleasant, and the more for a shower of Rain now and then, that ushers in the Wet Season. Several sorts of good Fruits were also still remaining, especially Oranges, which were in such plenty, that I and all my Company stock'd our selves for our Voyage with them, and they did us a great kindness; and we took in also a good quantity of Rum and Sugar: But for Fowls, they being here lean and dear, I was glad I had stockt my self at St.
Jago.
But by the little care my Officers took for fresh Provisions, one might conclude, they did not think of going much farther. Besides, I had like to have been imbroiled with the Clergy here (of the
Inquisition,
as I suppose) and so my Voyage might have been hindred. What was said to them of me, by some of my Company that went ashore, I know not; but I was assur'd by a Merchant there, that if they got me into their Clutches (and it seems, when I was last ashore they had narrowly watch'd me) the Governor himself could not release me. Besides I might either be murther'd in the Streets, as he sent me word, or Poysoned, if I came ashore any more; and therefore he advised me to stay aboard. Indeed I had now no further Business ashore but to take leave of the Governor, and therefore took his Advice.
Our Stay here was till the 23d of
April.
I would have gone before if I could sooner have fitted my self; but was now earnest to be gone, because this Harbour lies open to the S. and S. S. W. which are raging Winds here, and now was the Season for them. We had had two or three Touches of them; and one pretty severe: and the Ships ride there so near each other, that if a Cable should fail, or an Anchor start, you are instantly aboard of one Ship or other: and I was more afraid of being disabled here in Harbour by these blustring Winds, than discouraged by them, as my People were, from prosecuting the Voyage; for at present I even wish'd for a brisk Southerly Wind as soon as I should be once well out of the Harbour, to set me the sooner into the True General Trade-Wind.
The Tide of Flood being spent, and having a fine Land-Breez on the 23d. in the Morning, I went away from the Anchoring-place before 'twas light; and then lay by till Day-light that we might see the better how to go out of the Harbour. I had a Pilot belonging to Mr.
Cock
who went out with me, to whom I gave three Dollars; but I found I could as well have gone out my Self, by the Soundings I made at coming in. The Wind was E. by N. and fair Weather. By 10 a Clock I was got past all danger, and then sent away my Pilot. At 12 Cape
Salvadore
bore N. distant 6 Leagues, and we had the Winds between the E. by N. and S. E. a considerable time, so that we kept along near the Shore, commonly in sight of it. The Southerly Blasts had now left us again; for they come at first in short Flurries, and shift to other Points (for 10 or 12 days sometimes) before they are quite set in: And we had uncertain Winds, between Sea and Land-Breezes, and the Coasting-Trade, which was its self unsetled.
The Easterly-Winds at present made me doubt I should not weather a great Shoal which lies in Lat. between 18 deg. and 19 deg. S. and runs a great way into the Sea, directly from the Land, Easterly. Indeed the Weather was fair (and continued so a good while) so that I might the better avoid any Danger from it: and if the Wind came to the Southward I knew I could stretch off to Sea; so that I jogg'd on couragiously. The 27th of
April
we saw a small Brigantine under the Shore plying to the Southward. We also saw many Men of War-birds and Boobies, and abundance of
Albicore
-Fish. Having still fair Weather, small Gales, and some Calms, I had the opportunity of trying the Current, which I found to set sometimes Northerly and sometimes Southerly: and therefore knew I was still within the Verge of the Tides. Being now in the Lat. of the
Abrohlo
Shoals, which I expected to meet with, I sounded, and had Water lessening from 40 to 33. and so to 25 Fathom: but then it rose again to 33, 35, 37.
&c.
all Coral Rocks. Whilst we were on this Shoal (which we crosst towards the further part of it from Land, where it lay deep, and so was not dangerous) we caught a great many Fish with Hook and Line; and by evening Amplitude we had 6 deg. 38 min. East Variation. This was the 27th of
April;
we were then in Lat. 18 deg. 13 min. S. and East Longitude from Cape
Salvadore
31 min. On the 29th, being then in Lat. 18 deg. 39 min. S. we had small Gales from the W. N. W. to the W. S. W. often shifting. The 30th we had the Winds from W. to S. S. E. Squals and Rain: and we saw some Dolphins and other Fish about us. We were now out of sight of Land, and had been so 4 or 5 Days: but the Wind's now hanging in the South was an apparent Sign that we were still too nigh the Shore to receive the True General East-Trade; as the Easterly Winds we had before shew'd that we were too far off the Land to have the Benefit of the Coasting South-Trade: and the faintness of both these Winds, and their often shifting from the S. S. W. to the S. E. with Squalls, Rain and small Gales, were a Confirmation of our being between the Verge of the S. Coasting-Trade, and that of the True Trade; which is here, regularly, S. E.
The third of
May
being in Lat. 20 deg. 00 min. and Merid. distance West from Cape
Salvadore
234 Miles, the Variation was 7 deg. 00 min. We saw no Fowl but Shear-waters, as our Sea-men call them, being a small black Fowl that sweep the Water as they fly, and are much in the Seas that lie without either of the
Tropicks:
they are not eaten. We caught 3 small Sharks, each 6 Foot 4 Inches long; and they were very good Food for us. The next day we caught 3 more Sharks of the same size, and we eat them also, esteeming them as good Fish boil'd and presst, and then stew'd with Vinegar and Pepper.
F. 2. This very much resembles the Guarauna, described, and figured by Piso. P. 123
F. 1. The Pintado Bird. P. 96
The Petrel is a Bird not much unlike a Swallow, but smaller, and with a shorter Tail. 'Tis all over black, except a white Spot on the Rump. They fly sweeping like Swallows, and very near the Water. They are not so often seen in fair Weather; being Foul-weather Birds, as our Seamen call them, and presaging a Storm when they come about a Ship; who for that Reason don't love to see them. In a Storm they will hover close under the Ship's Stern, in the Wake of the Ship (as 'tis call'd) or the smoothness which the Ship's passing has made on the Sea: and there as they fly (gently then) they pat the Water alternately with their Feet, as if they walkt upon it; tho' still upon the Wing. And from hence the Seamen give them the name of
Petrels,
in allusion to St.
Peter
's walking upon the Lake of
Gennesareth.
We also saw many Bunches of Seaweeds in the Lat. of 39. 32. and by Judgment, near the Meridian of the Island
Tristian d'Aconha:
and then we had about 2 d. 20 min. East Variation; which was now again decreasing as we ran to the Eastward, all near the Meridian of
Ascention;
where we found little or no Variation: But from thence, as we ran farther to the East, our Variation increased Westerly.
Two days before I made the Cape of
G. Hope,
my Variation was 7 deg. 58 min. West. I was then in 43 deg. 27 min. East Longit. from C.
Salvador,
being in Lat. 35 deg. 30 min. this was the first of
June.
The second of
June
I saw a large black Fowl, with a whitish flat Bill, fly by us; and took great notice of it, because in the
East-India
Waggoner, or Pilot-book, there is mention made of large Fowls, as big as Ravens, with white flat Bills and black Feathers, that fly not above 30 Leagues from the
Cape,
and are lookt on as a Sign of ones being near it. My Reckoning made me then think my self above 90 Leagues from the
Cape,
according to the Longitude which the
Cape
hath in the common Sea-Charts: so that I was in some doubt, whether these were the right Fowls spoken of in the Waggoner; or whether those Fowls might not fly farther off Shore than is there mentioned; or whether, as it prov'd, I might not be nearer the
Cape
than I reckoned my self to be: for I found, soon after, that I was not then above 25 or 30 Leagues at most from the Cape. Whether the fault were in the Charts laying down the
Cape
too much to the East from
Brazil,
or were rather in our Reckoning, I could not tell: but our Reckonings are liable to such Uncertainties from Steerage, Log, Currents, Half Minute-Glasses, and sometimes want of Care, as in so long a Run cause often a difference of many Leagues in the whole Account.
Most of my Men that kept Journals imputed it to the Half-Minute-glasses; and indeed we had not a good Glass in the Ship beside the Half-watch or Two Hour-Glasses. As for our Half-Minute-Glasses we tried them all at several times, and we found those that we had us'd from
Brazil
as much too short, as others we had us'd before were too long: which might well make great Errors in those several Reckonings. A Ship ought therefore to have its Glasses very exact: and besides, an extraordinary Care ought to be used in heaving the Log, for fear of giving too much Stray-Line in a moderate Gale; and also to stop quickly in a brisk Gale; for when a Ship runs 8, 9, or 10 Knots, half a Knot or a Knot is soon run out, and not heeded: But to prevent danger, when a Man thinks himself near Land, the best way is to look out betimes, and lie by in the Night: for a Commander may err easily himself; beside the Errors of those under him, tho' never so carefully eyed.
Another thing that stumbled me here was the
Variation,
which, at this time, by the last Amplitude I had I found to be but
deg. 58 min. W. whereas the Variation at the
Cape
(from which I found my self not 30 Leagues distant) was then computed, and truly, about 11 Deg. or more: And yet a while after this, when I was got 10 Leagues to the Eastward of the
Cape,
I found the Variation but 10 Deg. 40 Min. W. whereas it should have been rather more than at the
Cape.
These Things, I confess, did puzzle me: neither was I fully satisfied as to the Exactness of the taking the Variation at Sea: For in a great Sea, which we often meet with, the Compass will traverse with the motion of the Ship; besides the Ship may and will deviate somewhat in Steering, even by the best Helmsmen: And then when you come to take an
Azimuth,
there is often some difference between him that looks at the Compass, and the Man that takes the Altitude heighth of the Sun; and a small Error in each, if the Error of both should be one way, will make it wide of any great Exactness. But what was most shocking to me, I found that the Variation did not always increase or decrease in proportion to the Degrees of Longitude East or West; as I had a Notion they might do to a certain Number of Degrees of Variation East or West, at such or such particular Meridians. But finding in this Voyage that the Difference of Variation did not bear a regular proportion to the difference of Longitude, I was much pleas'd to see it thus Observ'd in a Scheme shewn me after my Return home, wherein are represented the several Variations in the
Atlantick
Sea, on both sides the Equator; and there, the Line of no Variation in that Sea is not a Meridian Line, but goes very oblique, as do those also which shew the Increase of Variation on each side of it. In that Draught there is so large an Advance made as well towards the Accounting for those seemingly Irregular Increases and Decreases of Variation towards the S. E. Coast of
America,
as towards the fixing a general Scheme or System of the Variation every where, which would be of such great Use in Navigation, that I cannot but hope that the Ingenious Author, Capt.
Halley,
who to his profound Skill in all Theories of these kinds, hath added and is adding continually Personal Experiments, will e'er long oblige the World with a fuller Discovery of the Course of the Variation, which hath hitherto been a Secret. For my part I profess my self unqualified for offering at any thing of a General Scheme; but since Matter of Fact, and whatever increases the History of the Variation, may be of use towards the setling or confirming the Theory of it, I shall here once for all insert a
Table
of all the
Variations
I observ'd beyond the
Equator
in this Voyage, both in going out, and returning back; and what Errors there may be in it, I shall leave to be Corrected by the Observations of Others.
A Table of Variations.
 
 
 
D.
M.
D.
M.
 
D.
M.
 
 
 
 
S. Lat.
Longit.
Variat.
1699
Mar.
14
6
15
1
47
W. from
St. Jago.
3
27
E
 
 
21
12
45
12
9
 
3
27
 
 
Apr.
25
14
49
00
10
E. from C.
Salvador
in
Brazil.
7
0
 
 
 
28
18
13
00
31
 
6
38
 
 
 
30
19
00
2
20
 
6
30
 
 
May
2
19
22
3
51
 
8
15
 
 
 
3
20
1
3
40
 
7
0
 
 
 
5
22
47
3
48
 
9
40
 
 
 
6
24
23
3
53
 
7
36
 
 
 
7
25
44
3
53
 
10
15
 
 
 
8
26
47
4
35
 
7
14
 
 
 
9
28
9
5
50
 
9
45
 
 
 
10
29
5
7
3
 
11
41
 
 
 
11
29
23
7
38
 
12
47
 
 
 
17
34
58
18
43
 
5
40
 
 
 
18
34
54
19
06
 
6
19
 
 
 
19
35
48
19
45
 
5
6
 
 
 
23
39
42
27
1
 
2
55
 
 
 
25
39
11
31
35
 
2
0
 
 
June
1
35
30
43
27
 
7
58
W
 
5
35
8
00
23
E. from C. G.
Hope.
10
40
W
 
 
6
36
7
3
6
 
11
10
 
 
 
8
36
17
10
3
 
15
00
 
 
 
9
35
59
12
0
 
19
38
 
 
 
12
35
20
20
18
 
21
35
 
 
 
14
35
5
26
13
 
23
50
 
 
 
15
34
51
29
24
 
25
56
 
 
 
17
34
27
36
8
 
24
54
 
 
 
19
34
17
39
24
 
25
29
 
 
 
20
34
15
42
25
 
24
22
 
 
 
22
33
34
45
41
 
22
15
 
 
 
25
35
8
45
28
 
24
30
 
 
 
28
36
40
49
33
 
22
50
 
 
 
29
36
40
53
12
 
22
44
 
 
 
30
36
15
56
22
 
21
40
 
 
July
1
35
35
58
44
 
19
45
 
 
 
4
33
32
66
22
 
16
40
 
 
 
6
31
30
68
34
 
12
20
 
 
 
7
31
45
69
00
 
12
2
 
 
 
10
32
39
70
21
 
13
36
 
 
 
11
33
4
72
00
 
12
29
 
 
 
13
31
17
74
43
 
10
0
 
 
 
15
29
20
75
25
 
10
28
 
 
 
18
28
16
78
29
 
9
51
 
 
 
23
26
43
84
19
 
9
11
 
 
 
24
26
28
85
20
 
8
9
 
 
 
25
26
14
85
52
 
8
40
 
 
 
26
25
36
80
21
 
8
20
 
 
27
26
43
86
16
 
7
0
W
 
 
29
27
38
87
25
 
8
20
 
 
 
31
26
54
88
1
 
9
0
 
 
Aug.
5
25
30
86
3
 
7
24
 
 
 
15
24
41
86
2
E. from
Sharks-Bay
in
N. Holland.
6
6
 
 
 
17
23
2
00
22
 
7
6
 
 
 
20
19
37
3
00
 
7
00
 
 
 
24
19
52
4
41
 
7
7
 
 
 
25
19
45
5
10
 
6
40
 
 
 
27
19
24
6
11
 
5
18
 
 
 
28
18
38
6
57
 
6
12
 
 
Sept.
6
17
16
9
18
 
4
3
 
 
 
7
16
9
8
57
 
2
7
 
 
 
8
15
37
9
34
 
2
20
 
 
 
10
13
55
10
55
 
1
47
 
 
 
11
13
12
11
42
 
1
47
 
 
Dec.
29
5
1
6
34
E. from
Babao
-Bay in I.
Timor.
1
2
E
1700.
Jan.
3
1
32
6
53
 
4
8
 
 
Feb.
13
0
9
2
48
E. from C.
Maba
in N.
Guinea.
4
0
 
 
 
16
0
12
7
31
 
6
26
 
 
 
21
0
12
15
23
 
8
45
 
 
 
23
0
43
18
00
 
8
45
 
 
 
27
2
43
19
41
 
9
50
 
 
Mar.
10
5
10
00
5
E. from C.
St. George
on I.
N. Britannia.
1
0
 
 
 
13
5
35
00
44
W. from
ditto.
9
0
 
 
 
30
5
15
6
4
 
8
25
W
 
Apr.
6
3
32
8
25
 
7
16
 
 
22
1
32
00
37
W. from C.
Maba.
3
00
W
 
May
1
3
00
 
 
At Anchor off I.
Ceram.
2
15
E
 
 
24
9
59
00
25
W. from
Babao
-Bay.
0
15
W
 
 
27
14
33
3
30
 
1
25
 
 
June
2
19
44
8
7
 
5
38
 
 
 
3
19
51
9
58
 
6
10
 
 
 
4
19
46
11
6
 
6
20
 
 
 
5
20
00
12
22
 
4
58
 
 
 
6
20
00
14
17
 
7
20
 
 
 
9
19
59
16
01
 
6
32
 
 
 
11
19
57
17
42
 
8
1
 
 
 
12
19
48
19
0
 
6
0
 
 
Nov.
7
21
26
 
 
W. from
Princes
Isle by
Java
-Head.
9
0
 
 
 
14
27
1
35
35
 
16
50
 
 
 
15
27
10
36
34
 
18
57
 
 
 
16
27
11
37
54
 
17
24
 
 
 
19
28
14
41
40
 
19
39
 
 
 
21
29
24
44
47
 
20
50
 
 
 
23
29
42
47
34
 
21
38
 
 
 
24
30
16
49
26
 
26
00
 
 
 
25
30
40
51
24
 
22
38
 
 
 
27
31
51
55
5
 
22
40
 
 
 
29
32
55
56
28
 
27
10
 
 
 
30
31
55
57
25
 
27
10
 
 
Dec.
1
31
57
58
17
 
24
30
 
 
 
2
31
57
59
33
 
27
57
 
 
 
4
32
3
61
45
 
24
50
 
 
6
32
15
66
00
 
23
30
W
 
 
7
37
28
68
36
 
24
48
 
 
 
8
33
49
64
38
 
21
53
 
 
 
9
32
49
70
09
 
24
00
 
 
 
11
32
50
71
45
 
21
15
 
 
 
13
31
55
72
32
 
20
16
 
 
 
14
31
35
73
39
 
20
00
 
 
 
15
32
21
75
22
 
20
00
 
 
 
17
33
5
79
39
 
18
42
 
 
 
18
33
0
80
39
 
17
15
 
 
 
21
34
39
82
46
 
16
41
 
 
 
22
34
36
83
19
 
14
36
 
 
 
23
34
21
83
42
 
14
00
 
 
 
25
34
38
84
21
 
14
00
 
1701.
Jan.
15
31
25
2
32
W. from the
Table
-Land at C. G.
Hope.
10
20
 
 
 
16
30
5
4
42
 
9
36
 
 
 
17
28
46
6
8
 
8
25
 
 
 
18
27
26
7
32
 
7
40
 
 
 
19
26
11
9
9
 
7
30
 
 
 
20
25
00
10
49
 
7
9
 
 
 
21
23
42
12
34
 
6
55
 
 
 
22
22
51
14
10
 
5
56
 
 
 
23
21
48
15
17
 
5
32
 
 
 
24
21
24
15
51
 
4
56
 
 
 
36
19
57
16
48
 
4
20
 
 
 
27
19
10
17
22
 
3
24
 
 
 
28
18
13
18
23
 
4
00
 
 
 
29
17
22
19
29
 
2
00
 
Feb.
16
12
52
3
8
W. from
Santa Helena.
1
50
W
 
 
17
11
55
4
42
 
1
10
 
 
 
18
11
17
5
30
 
0
20
 
 
 
19
10
22
6
32
 
1
10
 
 
 
21
We made the I.
Ascention.
But to return from this Digression: Having fair Weather, and the Winds hanging Southerly, I jog'd on to the Eastward, to make the
Cape.
On the third of
June
we saw a Sail to Leeward of us, shewing
English
Colours. I bore away to speak with her, and found her to be the
Antelope
of
London,
commanded by Captain
Hammond,
and bound for the Bay of
Bengal
in the Service of the
New-East-India
Company. There were many Passengers aboard, going to settle there under Sir
Edward Littleton,
who was going Chief thither: I went aboard, and was known by Sir
Edward,
and Mr.
Hedges,
and kindly received and treated by them and the Commander; who had been afraid of us before, tho' I had sent one of my Officers aboard. They had been in at the
Cape,
and came from thence the Day before, having stockt themselves with Refreshments. They told me that they were by Reckoning, 60 Miles to the West of the
Cape.
While I was aboard them, a fine small Westerly Wind sprang up; therefore I shortned my stay with them, because I did not design to go in to the
Cape.
When I took leave I was presented with half a Mutton, 12 Cabbages, 12 Pumkins, 6 Pound of Butter, 6 Couple of Stockfish, and a quantity of Parsnips; sending them some Oatmeal, which they wanted.
From my first setting out from
England,
I did not design to touch at the
Cape;
and that was one Reason why I touch'd at
Brazil,
that there I might refresh my Men, and prepare them for a long Run to
New Holland.
We had not yet seen the Land; but about 2 in the Afternoon we saw the
Cape
-Land bearing East, at above 16 Leagues distance: And Captain
Hammond
being also bound to double the
Cape,
we jog'd on together this Afternoon and the next Day, and had several fair Sights of it; which may be seen [
Table
III. No. 6. 7. 8.]
To proceed, having still a Westerly Wind, I jog'd on in company with the
Antelope,
till Sunday
June
the 4th at 4 in the Afternoon, when we parted; they steering away for the
East-Indies,
and I keeping an E. S. E. Course, the better to make my way for
New Holland:
For tho'
New Holland
lies North-Easterly from the
Cape,
yet all Ships bound towards that Coast, or the Streights of
Sundy,
ought to keep for a while in the same Parallel, or in a Lat. between 35 and 40. at least a little to the S. of the East, that they may continue in a variable Winds way; and not venture too soon to stand so far to the North, as to be within the verge of the Trade-Wind, which will put them by their Easterly Course. The Wind increased upon us; but we had yet sight of the
Antelope,
and of the Land too, till
Tuesday
the 6th of
June:
And then we saw also by us an inumerable Company of Fowls of divers sorts; so that we lookt about to see if there were not another dead Whale, but saw none.
The Night before, the Sun set in a black Cloud, which appeared just like Land; and the Clouds above it were gilded of a dark red Colour. And on the
Tuesday,
as the Sun drew near the Horizon, the Clouds were gilded very prettily to the Eye, tho' at the same time my Mind dreaded the Consequences of it. When the Sun was now not above 2 deg. high, it entered into a dark smoaky-coloured Cloud that lay parallel with the Horizon, from whence presently seem'd to issue many dusky blackish Beams. The Sky was at this time covered with small hard Clouds (as we call such as lie scattering about, not likely to Rain) very thick one by another; and such of them as lay next to the Bank of Clouds at the Horizon, were of a pure Gold colour to 3 or 4 deg. high above the Bank: From these to about 10 deg. high they were redder, and very bright; above them they were of a darker Colour still, to about 60 or 70 deg. high; where the Clouds began to be of their common Colour. I took the more particular Notice of all this, because I have generally observed such colour'd Clouds to appear before an approaching Storm: And this being Winter here, and the time for bad Weather, I expected and provided for a violent Blast of Wind, by riffing our Topsails, and giving a strict charge to my Officers to hand them or take them in, if the Wind should grow stronger. The Wind was now at W. N. W. a very brisk Gale. About 12 a Clock at Night we had a pale whitish Glare in the N. W. which was another Sign, and intimated the Storm to be near at hand; and the Wind increasing upon it, we presently handed our Topsails, furled the Mainsail, and went away only with our Foresail. Before 2 in the Morning it came on very fierce, and we kept right before Wind and Sea, the Wind still increasing: But the Ship was very governable, and Steer'd incomparably well. At 8 in the Morning we settled our Fore-Yard, lowering it 4 or 5 Foot, and we ran very swiftly; especially when the Squals of Rain or Hail, from a black Cloud, came over head, for then it blew excessive hard. These, tho' they did not last long, yet came very thick and fast one after another. The Sea also ran very high: But we running so violently before Wind and Sea, we Shipt little or no Water; tho' a little washt into our upper Deck-Ports; and with it a Scuttle or Cuttle-Fish was cast upon the Carriage of a Gun.
The Wind blew extraordinary hard all
Wednesday,
the 7th of
June,
but abated of its fierceness before Night: Yet it continued a brisk Gale till about the 16th, and still a moderate one till the 19th Day; by which time we had run about 600 Leagues: For the most part of which time the Wind was in some point of the West,
viz.
from the W. N. W. to the S. by W. It blew hardest when at W. or between the W. and S. W. but after it veered more Southerly the foul Weather broke up: This I observed at other times also in these Seas, that when the Storms at West veered to the Southward they grew less; and that when the Wind came to the E. of the S. we had still smaller Gales, Calms, and fair Weather. As for the Westerly Winds on that side the
Cape,
we like them never the worse for being violent, for they drive us the faster to the Eastward; and are therefore the only Winds coveted by those who sail towards such parts of the
East-Indies,
as lie South of the Equator; as
Timor, Java,
and
Sumatra;
and by the Ships bound for
China,
or any other that are to pass through the Streights of
Sundy.
Those Ships having once past the
Cape,
keep commonly pretty far Southerly, on purpose to meet with these West Winds, which in the Winter Season of these Climates they soon meet with; for then the Winds are generally Westerly at the
Cape,
and especially to the Southward of it: But in their Summer Months they get to the Southward of 40 deg. usually e'er they meet with the Westerly Winds. I was not at this time in a higher Lat. than 36 deg. 40 min. and oftentimes was more Northerly, altering my Latitude often as Winds and Weather requir'd; for in such long Runs 'tis best to shape ones Course according to the Winds. And if in Steering to the East, we should be obliged to bear a little to the N. or S. of it, 'tis no great matter; for 'tis but Sailing 2 or 3 Points from the Wind, when 'tis either Northerly or Southerly; and this not only easeth the Ship from straining, but shortens the way more than if a Ship was kept close on a Wind, as some Men are fond of doing.
The 19th of
June
we were in Lat. 34 deg. 17 min. S. and Long. from the
Cape
39 deg. 24 min. E. and had small Gales and Calms. The Winds were at N. E. by E. and continued in some part of the E. till the 27th Day. When it having been some time at N. N. E. it came about at N. and then to the W. of the N. and continued in the West-board (between the N. N. W. and S. S. W.) till the 4th of
July;
in which time we ran 782 Miles; then the Winds came about again to the East, we reckoning our selves to be in a Meridian 1100 L. East of that of the
Cape;
and having fair Weather sounded, but had no Ground.
We met with little of Remark in this Voyage, besides being accompanied with Fowles all the way, especially Pintado-Birds, and seeing now and then a Whale: But as we drew nigher the Coast of
New-Holland,
we saw frequently 3 or 4 Whales together. When we were about 90 Leagues from the Land we began to see Sea-weeds, all of one sort; and as we drew nigher the Shore we saw them more frequently. At about 30 Leagues distance we began to see some Scutle-bones floating on the Water; and drawing still nigher the Land we saw greater quantities of them.
July
the 25th being in Lat. 26 deg. 14 min. S. and Longitude E. from the C. of
G. Hope
85 deg. 52 min. we saw a large Garfish leap 4 times by us, which seemed to be as big as a Porpose. It was now very fair Weather, and the Sea was full of a sort of very small Grass or Moss, which as it floated in the Water seemed to have been some Spawn of Fish; and there was among it some small Fry. The next Day the Sea was full of small round things like Pearl, some as big as white Peas; they were very Clear and Transparent, and upon crushing any of them a drop of Water would come forth: The Skin that contained the Water was so thin that it was but just deseernable. Some Weeds swam by us, so that we did not doubt but we should quickly see Land. On the 27th also, some Weeds swam by us, and the Birds that had flown along with us all the way almost from
Brazil,
now left us, except only 2 or 3 Shear-waters. On the 28th we saw many Weeds swim by us, and some Whales, blowing. On the 29th we had dark cloudy Weather, with much Thunder, Lightning, and violent Rains in the Morning: But in the Evening it grew fair. We saw this Day a Scutle-bone swim by us, and some of our young Men a Seal, as it should seem by their Description of its Head. I saw also some Boneta's, and some Skipjacks, a Fish about 8 Inches long, broad and sizable, not much unlike a Roach; which our Seamen call so from their leaping about.
The 30th of
July,
being still nearer the Land, we saw abundance of Scutle-bones and Sea-weed, more Tokens that we were not far from it; and saw also a sort of Fowls the like of which we had not seen in the whole Voyage, all the other Fowls having now left us. These were as big as Lapwings; of a grey Colour, black about their Eyes, with red sharp Bills, long Wings, their Tails long and forked like Swallows; and they flew flapping their Wings like Lapwings. In the Afternoon we met with a Ripling like a Tide or Current, or the Water of some Shole or Overfal; but were past it before we could sound. The Birds last mention'd and this were further Signs of Land. In the Evening we had fair Weather, and a small Gale at West. At 8 a Clock we sounded again; but had no Ground.
Table IV.
New Holland
No . 1.
N. Holland,
from Top-mast head in ye Lat: 27 D. 30 M. S. at these Bearings dist: 10 L.
No . 2.
N. Holland,
the same Coast from 8 L. dist: Lat: 27 D. 28 M. S
No . 3.
N. Holland,
at 5 L. dist: in Lat: 26-46 S.
No . 4.
N. Holland,
at 6 L. dist: in Lat: 26-35 S.
No . 5.
N. Holland,
from Lat: 26-10. 8 L. from ye White Hils
No . 6.
Part of New HOLLAND
No . 7. This white hill dist: 7 L. Lat: 23-5.
No . 8. This Head sheweth thus in Lat: 20-20. dist. 4
No . 9. This Head-land is only an Ist: maeks thus at these bearing L. 20-21. d. 6 L.
No . 10. Thus sheweth ye Head and Pt . of ye other Ist: yt makes to ye N. ward dist: from ye Head 5 L.
About the Lat. of 26 deg. S. we saw an Opening, and ran in, hoping to find a Harbour there: but when we came to its Mouth, which was about two Leagues wide, we saw Rocks and foul Ground within, and therefore stood out again: There we had 20 Fathom-water within two mile of the Shore. The Land every where appear'd pretty low, flat and even; but with steep Cliffs to the Sea; and when we came near it there were no Trees, Shrubs or Grass to be seen. The Soundings in the Lat. of 26 deg. S. from about 8 or 9 Leagues off till you come within a League of the Shore, are generally about 40 Fathom; differing but little, seldom above three or four Fathom. But the Lead brings up very different sorts of Sand, some course, some fine; and of several Colours, as Yellow, White, Grey, Brown, Bluish and Reddish.
When I saw there was no Harbour here, nor good Anchoring, I stood off to Sea again, in the Evening of the second of
August,
fearing a Storm on a Lee-shore, in a place where there was no shelter, and desiring at least to have Sea-Room: For the Clouds began to grow thick in the Western-board, and the Wind was already there, and began to blow fresh almost upon the Shore; which at this Place lies along N. N. W. and S. S. E. By Nine a Clock at Night we had got a pretty good Offin; but the Wind still increasing, I took in my Main Top-sail, being able to carry no more Sail than two Courses and the Mizen. At two in the Morning,
Aug.
3. it blew very hard, and the Sea was much raised; so that I furled all my Sails but my Main-sail. Tho' the Wind blew so hard, we had yet pretty clear Weather till Noon: But then the whole Sky was blackned with thick Clouds, and we had some Rain, which would last a quarter of an hour at a time, and then it would blow very fierce while the Squals of Rain were over our Heads; but as soon as they were gone the Wind was by much abated, the stress of the Storm being over. We sounded several times, but had no Ground till 8 a Clock
Aug.
the 4th. in the Evening; and then had 60 Fathom-water, Coralground. At Ten we had 56 Fathom fine Sand. At Twelve we had 55 Fathom, fine Sand, of a pale, bluish Colour. It was now pretty moderate Weather; yet I made no Sail till Morning: but then, the Wind veering about to the S. W. I made Sail and stood to the North: And at 11 a Clock the next day,
Aug.
5. we saw Land again, at about 10 Leagues distance. This Noon we were in Lat. 25 deg. 30 min. and in the Afternoon our Cook died, an Old Man, who had been sick a great while, being infirm before we came out of
England.
The 6th of
August
in the Morning we saw an Opening in the Land, and we ran in to it and anchored in seven and a half Fathom-water, 2 miles from the Shore, clean Sand. It was somewhat difficult getting in here, by reason of many Shoals we met with: But I sent my Boat sounding before me. The Mouth of this Sound, which I call'd
Shark
's
Bay,
lies in about 25 deg. S. Lat. and our Reckoning made its Longitude from the C. of
Good Hope
to be about 87 Degrees; which is less by 195 Leagues than is usually laid down in our common Draughts, if our Reckoning was right, and our Glasses did not deceive us. As soon as I came to anchor in this Bay (of which I have given a Plan, Table IV. No . 6.) I sent my Boat ashore to seek for fresh Water: But in the Evening my Men returned, having found none. The next morning I went ashore my self, carrying Pick-axes and Shovels with me, to dig for Water; and Axes to cut Wood. We tried in several places for Water, but finding none after several Trials, nor in several miles compass, we left any farther search for it, and spending the rest of the day in cutting Wood, we went aboard at Night.
The Land is of an indifferent heighth, so that it may be seen 9 or 10 Leagues off. It appears at a distance very even; but as you come nigher you find there are many gentle Risings, tho' none steep nor high. 'Tis all a steep Shore against the open Sea: but in this Bay or Sound we were now in, the Land is low by the Sea-side, rising gradually in within the Land. The Mould is Sand by the Sea-side, producing a large sort of Sampier, which bears a white Flower. Farther in, the Mould is reddish, a sort of Sand producing some Grass, Plants, and Shrubs. The Grass grows in great Tufts, as big as a Bushel, here and there a Tuft: being intermix'd with much Heath, much of the kind we have growing on our Commons in
England.
Of Trees or Shrubs here are divers sorts; but none above ten Foot high: Their Bodies about 3 Foot about, and 5 or 6 Foot high before you come to the Branches, which are bushy and compos'd of small Twigs there spreading abroad, tho' thick set, and full of Leaves; which were mostly long and narrow. The Colour of the Leaves was on one side Whitish, and on the other Green: and the Bark of the Trees was generally of the same Colour with the Leaves, of a pale Green. Some of these Trees were sweetscented, and reddish within the Bark, like Sassafras, but redder. Most of the Trees and Shrubs had at this time either Blossoms or Berries on them. The Blossoms of the different sort of Trees were of several Colours, as Red, White, Yellow,
&c.
but mostly Blue: and these generally smelt very sweet and fragrant, as did some also of the rest. There were also beside some Plants, Herbs, and tall Flowers, some very small Flowers, growing on the Ground, that were sweet and beautiful, and for the most part unlike any I had seen elsewhere.
F. 3. The head & greatest part of ye neck of this bird is red. & therein differs from the Avosetta of Italy.
F. 5. A noddy of N. Holland. P. 123
F. 6. A Comon Noddy. P.
F. 4. The Bill & Leggs of this Bird are of a Bright R
The Land-Animals that we saw here were only a sort of Raccoons, different from those of the
West-Indies,
chiefly as to their Legs; for these have very short fore Legs; but go Jumping upon them as the others do, and like them are very good Meat:) and a sort of Guano's, of the same shape and size with other Guano's, describ'd [Vol. I. p. 57.] but differing from them in three remarkable Particulars: For these had a larger and uglier Head; and had no Tail: And at the Rump, instead of the Tail there, they had a stump of a Tail, which appear'd like another Head; but not really such, being without Mouth or Eyes: Yet this Creature seem'd by this means to have a Head at each end; and, which may be reckon'd a fourth difference, the Legs also seem'd all four of them to be Fore-legs, being all alike in shape and length, and seeming by the Joints and Bending to be made as if they were to go indifferently either Head or Tail foremost. They were speckled black and yellow like Toads, and had Scales or Knobs on their Backs like those of Crocodiles, plated on to the Skin, or stuck into it, as part of the Skin. They are very slow. in motion; and when a Man comes nigh them they will stand still and hiss, not endeavouring to get away. Their Livers are also spotted black and yellow: and the Body when opened hath a very unsavory Smell. I did never see such ugly Creatures any where but here. The Guano's I have observ'd to be very good Meat: and I have often eaten of them with pleasure: But tho' I have eaten of Snakes, Crocodiles and Allegators, and many Creatures that look frightfully enough, and there are but few I should have been afraid to eat of if prest by Hunger, yet I think my Stomach would scarce have serv'd to venture upon these
N. Holland
Guano's, both the Looks and the Smell of them being so offensive.
The Sea-fish that we saw here (for here was no River, Land or Pond of Fresh Water to be seen) are chiefly Sharks. There are abundance of them in this particular Sound, that I therefore gave it the Name of
Shark
's
Bay.
Here are also Skates Thornbacks, and other Fish of the Ray kind; (one sort especially like the Sea-Devil) and Garfish, Boneta's,
&c.
Of Shell-fish we got here Muscles, Periwinkles, Limpits, Oysters, both of the Pearlkind and also Eating-Oysters, as well the common sort as long Oysters; beside Cockles,
&c.
The Shore was lined thick with many other sorts of very strange and beautiful Shells, for variety of Colour and Shape, most finely spotted with Red, Black, or Yellow,
&c.
such as I have not seen any where but at this place. I brought away a great many of them; but lost all, except a very few, and those not of the best.
There are also some green Turtle weighing about 200 lb. Of these we caught 2 which the Water Ebbing had left behind a Ledge of Rock, which they could not creep over. These served all my Company 2 Days; and they were indifferent sweet Meat. Of the Sharks we caught a great many, which our Men eat very savourily. Among them we caught one which was 11 Foot long. The space between its 2 Eyes was 20 Inches, and 18 Inches from one Corner of his Mouth to the other. Its Maw was like a Leather Sack, very thick, and so tough that a sharp Knife could scarce cut it: In which we found the Head and Boans of a
Hippopotomus;
the hairy Lips of which were still sound and not putrified, and the Jaw was also firm, out of which we pluckt a great many Teeth, 2 of them 8 Inches long, and as big as a Mans Thumb, small at one end, and a little crooked; the rest not above half so long. The Maw was full of Jelly which stank extreamly: However I saved for a while the Teeth and the Sharks Jaw: The Flesh of it was divided among my Men; and they took care that no waste should be made of it.
'Twas the 7th of
August
when we came into
Shark
's-Bay; in which we Anchor'd at three several Places, and stay'd at the first of them (on the W. side of the Bay) till the 11th. During which time we searched about, as I said, for fresh Water, digging Wells, but to no purpose. However, we cut good store of Fire-wood at this first Anchoring-place; and my Company were all here very well refreshed with Raccoons, Turtle, Shark and other Fish, and some Fowles; so that we were now all much brisker than when we came in hither. Yet still I was for standing farther into the Bay, partly because I had a Mind to increase my stock of fresh Water, which was began to be low; and partly for the sake of Discovering this part of the Coast. I was invited to go further, by seeing from this Anchoring-place all open before me
which therefore I designed to search befor
I left the Bay. So on the 11th about Noon
I steer'd farther in, with an easie Sail, because we had but shallow Water: We kept therefore good looking out for fear of Sholes; sometimes shortning, sometimes deepning the Water. About 2 in the Afternoon we saw the Land a Head that makes the S. of the Bay, and before Night we had again Sholdings from that Shore: And therefore shortned Sail and stood off and on all Night, under 2 Topsails, continually sounding, having never more then 10 Fathom, and seldom less than 7. The Water deepned and sholdned so very gently, that in heaving the Lead 5 or 6 times we should scarce have a Foot difference. When we came into 7 Fathom either way, we presently went about. From this S. part of the Bay, we could not see the Land from whence we came in the Afternoon: And this Land we found to be an Island of 3 or 4 Leagues long, as is seen in the Plain, [Table IV. No. 6.] but it appearing barren, I did not strive to go nearer it; and the rather because the Winds would not permit us to do it without much Trouble, and at the Openings the Water was generally Shole. I therefore made no farther attempts in this S. W. and S. part of the Bay, but steered away to the Eastward, to see if there was any Land that way, for as yet we had seen none there. On the 12th in the Morning we pass'd by the N. Point of that Land, and were confirm'd in the Persuasion of its being an Island, by seeing an Opening to the East of it, as we had done on the W. Having fair Weather, a small Gale and smooth Water, we stood further on in the Bay, to see what Land was on the E. of it. Our Soundings at first were 7 Fathom, which held so a great while, but at length it decreas'd to 6. Then we saw the Land right a-head, that in the Plan makes the E. of the Bay. We could not come near it with the Ship, having but Shole water: and it being dangerous lying there, and the Land extraordinarily low, very unlikely to have fresh Water (though it had a few Trees on it, seemingly Mangroves) and much of it probably covered at High-water, I stood out again that Afternoon, deepning the Water, and before Night anchored in 8 Fathom, clean white Sand, about the middle of the Bay. The next day we got up our Anchor; and that Afternoon came to an Anchor once more near two Islands, and a Shole of Corral Rocks that face the Bay. Here I scrubb'd my Ship: and finding it very improbable I should get any thing further here, I made the best of my way out to Sea again, sounding all the way: but finding by the shallowness of the Water that there was no going out to Sea to the East of the two Islands that face the Bay, nor between them, I return'd to the West Entrance, going out by the same Way I came in at, only on the East instead of the West-side of the small Shole to be seen in the Plan: in which Channel we had 10, 12, and 13 Fathom-water, still deepning upon us till we were out at Sea. The day before we came out I sent a Boat ashore to the most Northerly of the Two Islands, which is the least of them, catching many small Fish in the mean while with Hook and Line. The Boat's Crew returning, told me, That the Ifle produces nothing but a sort of green, short, hard, prickly Grass, affording neither Wood nor fresh Water; and that a Sea broak between the two Islands, a Sign that the Water was shallow. They saw a large Turtle, and many Skates and Thornbacks, but caught none.
It was
August
the 14th when I sail'd out of this Bay or Sound, the Mouth of which lies, as I said, in 25 deg. 5 min. designing to coast along to the N. E. till I might commodiously put in at some other part of
N. Holland.
In passing out we saw three Water-Serpents swimming about in the Sea, of a yellow Colour, spotted with dark, brown Spots. They were each about four Foot long, and about the bigness of a Man's Wrist, and were the first I saw on this Coast, which abounds with several sorts of them. We had the Winds at our first coming out at N. and the Land lying North-Easterly. We plied off and on, getting forward but little till the next day: When the Wind coming at S. S. W. and S. we began to Coast it along the Shore to the Northward, keeping at 6 or 7 Leagues off Shore; and sounding often, we had between 40 and 46 Fathom-water, brown Sand, with some white Shells. This 15th of
August
we were in Lat. 24 deg. 41 min. On the 16th Day at Noon we were in 23 deg. 22 min. The Wind coming at E. by N. we could not keep the Shore aboard, but were forced to go farther off, and lost sight of the Land. Then sounding we had no Ground with 80 Fathom-line; however the Wind shortly after came about again to the Southward, and then we jogg'd on again to the Northward, and saw many small Dolphins and Whales, and abundance of Scuttle-shells swimming on the Sea; and some Watersnakes every day. The 17th we saw the Land again, and took a Sight of it. [See Table IV. No . 7.]
The 18th in the Afternoon, being 3 or 4 Leagues off Shore, I saw a Shole point, stretching from the Land into the Sea, a League or more. The Sea broke high on it; by which I saw plainly there was a Shole there. I stood farther off, and coasted along Shore, to about 7 or 8 Leagues distance: And at 12 a Clock at Night we sounded, and had but 20 Fathom, hard Sand. By this I found I was upon another Shole, and so presently steered off W. half an hour, and had then 40 Fathom. At One in the Morning of the 18th day we had 85 Fathom: By Two we could find no Ground; and then I ventur'd to steer along Shore again, due N. which is two Points wide of the Coast (that lies here N. N. E.) for fear of another Shole. I would not be too far off from the Land, being desirous to search into it where-ever I should find an Opening or any Convenience of searching about, for Water,
&c.
When we were off the Shole-point I mention'd where we had but 20 Fathom-water, we had in the Night abundance of Whales about the Ship, some a head, others a stern, and some on each side blowing and making a very dismal Noise; but when we came out again into deeper Water they left us. Indeed the Noise that they made by blowing and dashing of the Sea with their Tails, making it all of a Breach and Fome, was very dreadful to us, like the breach of the Waves in very Shole-water, or among Rocks. The Shole these Whales were upon had depth of Water sufficient, no less than twenty Fathom, as I said; and it lies in Lat. 22 deg. 22 min. The Shore was generally bold all along: we had met with no Shole at Sea since the
Abrohlo
-shole, when we first fell on the
N. Holland
Coast in the Lat. of 28. till yesterday in the Afternoon, and this Night. This Morning also when we expected by the Draught we had with us to have been 11 Leagues off Shore, we were but 4: so that either our Draughts were faulty, which yet hitherto and afterwards we found true enough as to the lying of the Coast, or else here was a Tide unknown to us that deceived us; tho' we had found very little of any Tide on this Coast hitherto. As to our Winds in the Coasting thus far, we had been within the Verge of the General Trade (tho' interrupted by the Storm I mention'd) from the Lat. of 28, when we first fell in with the Coast: and by that time we were in the Lat. of 25. we had usually the regular Trade-wind (which is here S. S. E.) when we were at any distance srom Shore: but we had often Sea and Land-Breezes, especially when near Shore, and when in
Sharks bay;
and had a particular N. West Wind, or Storm, that set us in thither. On this 18th of
August
we coasted with a brisk Gale of the True Trade-wind at S. S. E. very sair and clear VVeather; but haling off in the Evening to Sea, were next Morning out of sight of Land: and the Land now trending away N. Easterly, and we being to the Norward of it, and the Wind also shrinking from the S. S. E. to the E. S. E. (that is, from the True Trade-Wind to the Sea-Breeze, as the Land now lay) we could not get in with the Land again yet a-while, so as to see it, tho' we trim'd sharp and kept close on a Wind. We were this 19th day in Lat.
1 deg. 42 min. The 20th we were in Lat. 19 deg. 37 min. and kept close on a Wind to get sight of the Land again, but could not yet see it. We had very fair Weather; and tho' we were so far from the Land as to be out of sight of it, yet we had the Sea and Land-Breezes. In the Night we had the Land-breeze at S. S. E. a small gentle Gale; which in the Morning about Sun-rising would shift about gradually (and withal increasing in Strength) till about Noon we should have it at E. S. E. which is the true Sea-breeze here. Then it would blow a brisk Gale, so that we could scarce carry our Top sails double rift: and it would continue thus till 3 in the Afternoon, when it would decrease again. The Weather was fair all the while, not a Cloud to be seen; but very hazy, especially nigh the Horizon. We sounded several times this 20th day, and at first had no Ground: but had afterwards from 52 to 45 Fathom, course brown Sand, mixt with small, brown and white Stones, with Dints besides in the Tallow.
The 21st day also we had small Landbreezes in the Night, and Sea-breezes in the day: and as we saw some Sea-snakes every day, so this day we saw a great many, of two different sorts or shapes. One sort was yellow, and about the bigness of a Man's Wrist, about 4 Foot long, having a flat Tail about 4 Fingers broad. The other sort was much smaller and shorter, round and spotted black and yellow. This day we sounded several times, and had 45 Fathom, Sand. We did not make the Land till Noon, and then saw it first from our Topmast-head. It bore S.E. by E. about 9 Leagues distance; and it appeared like a Cape or Head of Land. The Sea-breeze this day was not so strong as the day before, and it veered out more; so that we had a fair Wind to run in with to the Shore, and at Sun-set anchored in 20 Fathom, clean Sand, about 5 Leagues from the bluff Point; which was not a Cape (as it appear'd at a great distance) but the Eastermost end of an Island, about 5 or 6 Leagues in length, and one in breadth. There were 3 or 4 Rocky Islands about a I cague from us between us and the bluff Point; and we saw many other Islands both to the East and VVest of it, as far as we could see either way from our Topmast head: And all within them to the S. there was nothing but Islands of a pretty heighth, that may be seen 8 or 9 Leagues off. By what we saw of them they must have been a Range of Islands of about 20 Leagues in length, stretching from E. N. E. to VV. S. VV. and for ought I know, as far as to those of
Sharks-Bay;
and to a considerable breadth also, (for we could see 9 or 10 Leagues in among them) towards the Continent or main Land of
N. Holland,
if there be any such thing hereabouts: and by the great Tides I met with awhile afterwards, more to the N. East, I had a strong suspicion that here might be a kind of
Archipelago
of Islands, and a Passage possibly to the S. of
N. Holland
and
N. Guinea
into the great
S. Sea
Eastward; which I had Thoughts also of attempting in my Return from
N. Guinea
(had Circumstances permitted) and told my Officers so: but I would not attempt it at this time, because we wanted VVater, and could not depend upon finding it there. This Place is in the Lat. of 20 deg. 21 min. but in the Draught that I had of this Coast, which was
Tasman
's, it was laid down in 19 deg. 50 min. and the Shore is laid down as all along joining in one Body or Continent, with some Openings appearing like Rivers; and not like Islands, as really they are. See several Sights of it, Table IV. No . 8, 9, 10. This Place therefore lies more Northerly by 40 min. than is laid down in Mr.
Tasman
's Draught: And beside its being made a firm, continued Land, only with some Openings like the Mouths of Rivers, I sound the Soundings also different from what the prickt Line of his Course shews them, and generally shallower than he makes them: which inclines me to think that he came not so near the Shore as his Line shews, and so had deeper Soundings, and could not so well distinguish the Islands. His Meridian or Difference of Longitude from
Sharks-Bay
agrees well enough with my Account, which is 232 Leagues tho' we differ in Lat. And to confirm my Conjecture that the Line of his Course is made too near the Shore, at least not far to the East of this place, the VVater is there so shallow that he could not come there so nigh.
But to proceed; in the Night we had a small Land-breeze, and in the Morning I weighed Anchor, designing to run in among the Islands, for they had large Channels between them, of a League wide at least, and some 2 or 3 Leagues wide. I sent in my Boat before to sound, and if they sound Shole-water to return again; but if they sound Water enough, to go ashore on one of the Islands, and stay till the Ship came in; where they might in the mean time search for Water. So we followed after with the Ship, sounding as we went in, and had 20 Fathom, till within 2 Leagues of the Bluff-head, and then we had shole Water, and very uncertain Soundings: Yet we ran in still with an easie Sail, sounding and looking out well, for this was dangerous Work. When we came abreast of the Bluff-head; and about 2 Mile from it, we had but 7 Fathom: Then we Edged away from it, but had no more Water; and running in a little further, we had but 4 Fathoms: So we Anchored immediately; and yet when we had veered out a third of a Cable we had 7 Fathom Water again; so uncertain was the Water. My Boat came immediately aboard, and told me that the Island was very Rocky and Dry, and they had little hopes of finding Water there. I sent them to sound, and bad them, if they found a Channel of 8 or 10 Fathom Water, to keep on, and we would follow with the Ship. We were now about 4 Leagues within the outer small Rocky Islands, but still could see nothing but Islands within us; some 5 or 6 Leagues long, others not above a Mile round. The large Islands were pretty high; but all appeared Dry, and mostly Rocky and Barren. The Rocks look'd of a rusty yellow Colour, and therefore I dispair'd of getting Water on any of them: but was in some hopes of finding a Channel to run in beyond all these Islands, could I have spent time here, and either get to the Main of
New Holland,
or find out some other Islands that might afford us Water and other Refreshments: Besides, that among so many Islands, we might have found some sort of Rich Mineral, or Ambergreese, it being a good Latitude for both these. But we had not Sailed above a League farther before our Water grew sholer again, and then we Anchored in 6 Fathom hard Sand.
We were now on the inner side of the Island, on whose outside is the Bluff-point. We rode a League from the Island, and I presently went ashore, and carried Shovels to dig for Water, but found none. There grow here 2 or 3 sorts of Shrubs, one just like Rosemary; and therefore I call'd this
Rosemary
Island. It grew in great plenty here, but had no smell. Some of the other Shrubs had blue and yellow Flowers; and we found 2 sorts of Grain like Beans: The one grew on Bushes; the other on a sort of a creeping Vine that runs along on the Ground, having very thick broad Leaves, and the Blossom like a Bean Blossom, but much larger, and of a deep red Colour, looking very Beautiful. We saw here some Cormorants, Gulls, Crabcatchers,
&c.
a few small Land Birds, and a sort of white Parrots, which flew a great many together. We found some Shellfish,
viz.
Limpits, Perriwinkles, and abundance of small Oysters growing on the Rocks, which were very sweet. In the Sea we saw some green Turtle, a pretty many Sharks, and abundance of Water-Snakes of several sorts and sizes. The Stones were all of rusty Colour, and Ponderous.
We saw a Smoak on an Island 3 or 4 Leagues off; and here also the Bushes had been burned, but we found no other sign of Inhabitants: 'T was probable that on the Island where the Smoke was there were Inhabitants, and fresh Water for them. In the Evening I went aboard, and consulted with my Officers whether it was best to send thither, or to search among any other of these Islands with my Boat; or else go from hence, and Coast along Shore with the Ship, till we could find some better Place than this was to ride in, where we had shole Water, and lay expos'd to Winds and Tides. They all agreed to go from hence; so I gave Orders to weigh in the Morning as soon as it should be light, and to get out with the Land-breeze.
Plate 1.
F.3. A Fish taken on the Coast of New Holland
F. 8. A Cuttle taken near N. Holland.
F.9 A Flying Fish taken in ye open Sea
F. 1. The Monk Fish. Page 141.
F. 6. A Remora taken sticking to Sharks ba
On the 25th of
August,
we still Coasted along Shore, that we might the better see any Opening; kept sounding, and had about 20 Fathom clean Sand. The 26th Day, being about 4 Leagues off Shore the Water began gradually to sholden from 20 to 14 Fathom. I was Edging in a little towards the Land, thinking to have Anchored: But presently after the Water decreased almost at once, till we had but 5 Fathom. I durst therefore adventure no farther, but steered out the same way that we came in; and in a short time had 10 Fathom (being then about 4 Leagues and a half from the Shore) and even Soundings. I steered away E. N. E. Coasting along as the Land lies. This Day the Seabreezes began to be very moderate again, and we made the best of our way along Shore, only in the Night Edging off a little for fear of Sholes. Ever since we left
Sharks-Bay
we had had fair clear Weather, and so for a great while still.
The 27th Day, we had 20 Fathom Water all Night, yet we could not see Land till 1 in the Afternoon from our Topmast-head. By 3 we could just discern Land from our Quarter-deck: We had then 16 Fathom. The Wind was at N. and we steered E. by N. which is but one point in on the Land: Yet we decreased our Water very fast; for at 4 we had but 9 Fathom; the next Cast but 7, which frighted us; and we then tackt instantly and stood off: But in a short time the Wind coming at N. W. and W. N. W. we tackt again, and steered N. N. E. and then deepned our Water again, and had all Night from 15 to 20 Fathom.
The 28th Day we had between 20 and 40 Fathom. We saw no Land this Day, but saw a great many Snakes; and some Whales. We saw also some
Boobies,
and Noddy-birds; and in the Night caught one of these last. It was of another Shape and Colour than any I had seen before. It had a small long Bill, as all of them have, flat Feet like Ducks Feet; its Tail forked like a Swallow, but longer and broader, and the Fork deeper than that of the Swallow, with very long Wings: The Top or Crown of the Head of this Noddy was Coal-black, having also small black Streaks round about and close to the Eyes; and round these Streaks on each side, a pretty broad white Circle. The Breast, Belly, and under part of the Wings of this Noddy were white: And the Back and upper part of its Wings of a saint black or smoak Colour. See a Picture of this, and of the Common one,
Birds, Fig.
5, 6. Noddies are seen in most Places between the
Tropicks,
as well in the
East-Indies,
and on the Coast of
Brazil,
as in the
West-Indies.
They rest a Shore a Nights, and therefore we never see them far at Sea, not above 20 or 30 Leagues, unless driven off in a Storm. When they come about a Ship they commonly perch in the Night, and will sit still till they are taken by the Seamen. They Build on Cliffs against the Sea, or Rocks, as I have said Vol. I. p. 53.
The 30th Day being in Lat. 18 deg. 21 min. we made the Land again, and saw many great Smoaks near the Shore; and having fair Weather and moderate Breezes, I steered in towards it. At 4 in the Afternoon I Anchored in 8 Fathom Water, clear Sand, about 3 Leagues and a half from the Shore. I presently sent my Boat to Sound nearer in, and they found 10 Fathom about a Mile farther in: and from thence still farther in the Water decreased gradually to 9, 8, 7. and at 2 Mile distance to 6 Fathom. This Evening we saw an Eclipse of the Moon, but it was abating before the Moon appear'd to us; for the Horizon was very hazy, so that we could not see the Moon till she had been half an hour above the Horizon: and at two hours, 22 min. after Sun-set, by the reckoning of our Glasses, the Eclipse was quite gone, which was not of many Digits. The Moon's Center was then 33 deg. 40 min. high.
The 31st of
August
betimes in the Morning I went ashore with 10 or 11 Men to search for Water. We went armed with Muskets and Cutlasses for our Defence, expecting to see People there; and carried also Shovels and Pickaxes to dig Wells. When we came near the Shore we saw 3 tall black naked Men on the sandy Bay ahead of us: But as we row'd in, they went away. When we were landed I sent the Boat with two Men in her to ly a little from the Shore at an Anchor, to prevent being seiz'd; while the rest of us went after the 3 black Men, who were now got on the top of a small Hill about a quarter of a Mile from us, with 8 or 9 Men more in their Company. They seeing us coming, ran away. When we came on the top of the Hill where they first stood, we saw a plain Savannah, about half a mile from us, farther in from the Sea. There were several Things like Hay-cocks, standing in the Savannah; which at a distance we thought were Houses, looking just like the
Hottentot
's Houses at the
Cap
of G. Hope:
but we found them to be s
many Rocks. We searched about thes
for Water, but could find none, nor an
Houses; nor People, for they were a
Then we return'd again to the Place where we landed, and there we dug for Water.
While we were at work there came 9 or 10 of the Natives to a small Hill a little way from us, and stood there menacing and threatning of us, and making a great Noise. At last one of them came towards us, and the rest followed at a distance. I went out to meet him, and came within 50 yards of him, making to him all the Signs of Peace and Friendship I could; but then he ran away, neither would they any of them stay for us to come nigh them; for we tried two or three times. At last I took two Men with me, and went in the Afternoon along by the Seaside, purposely to catch one of them, if I could, of whom I might learn where they got their fresh Water. There were 10 or 12 of the Natives a little way off, who seeing us three going away from the rest of our Men, followed us at a distance. I thought they would follow us: but there being for a while a Sand-bank between us and them, that they could not then see us, we made a halt, and hid our selves in a bending of the Sand-bank. They knew we must be thereabouts, and being 3 or 4 times our Number, thought to seize us. So they dispers'd themselves, some going to the Sea-shore, and others beating about the Sand-hills. We knew by what Rencounter we had had with them in the Morning that we could easily out-run them: so a nimble young Man that was with me, seeing some of them near, ran towards them; and they for some time, ran away besore him. But he soon overtaking them, they fac'd about and fought him. He had a Cutlass, and they had Wooden Lances: with which, being many of them, they were too hard for him. When he first ran towards them I chas'd two more that were by the Shore: but fearing how it might be with my young Man, I turn'd back quickly, and went up to the top of a Sand-hill, whence I saw him near me, closely engag'd with them. Upon their seeing me, one of them threw a Lance at me, that narrowly misst me. I discharg'd my Gun to scare them, but avoided shooting any of them: till finding the young Man in great danger from them, and my self in some; and that tho' the Gun had a little frighted them at first, yet they had soon learnt to despise it, tossing up their Hands, and crying
Pooh, Pooh, Pooh;
and coming on afresh with a great Noise, I thought it high time to charge again, and shoot one of them, which I did. The rest, seeing him fall, made a stand again; and my young Man took the opportunity to disengage himself, and come off to me: my other Man also was with me, who had done nothing all this while, having come out unarm'd; and I return'd back with my Men, designing to attempt the Natives no farther, being very sorry for what had happen'd already. They took up their wounded Companion: and my young Man, who had been struck through the Cheek by one of their Lances, was afraid it had been poison'd: but I did not think that likely. His Wound was very painful to him, being made with a blunt Weapon: but he soon recover'd of it.
Among the
N. Hollanders,
whom we were thus engag'd with, there was one who by his Appearance and Carriage, as well in the Morning as this Afternoon, seem'd to be the Chief of them, and a kind of Prince or Captain among them. He was a young brisk Man, not very tall, nor so pe
sonable as some of the rest, tho' more
and couragious: He was painted (which none of the rest were at all) with a Circle of white Paste or Pigment (a sort
ime, as we thought) about his Eyes, and a white streak down his Nose from his Forehead to the tip of it. And his Breast and some part of his Arms were also made white with the same Paint: not for Beauty or Ornament, one would think, but as some wild
Indian
Warriors are said to do, he seem'd thereby to design the looking more terrible; this his Painting adding very much to his natural Deformity; for they all of them of the most unpleasant Looks and the worst Features of any People that ever I saw, tho' I have seen great variety of Savages. These
N. Hollanders
were probably the same sort of People as those I met with on this Coast in my
Voyage round the World;
[See Vol. I. p. 464,
&c.
] for the Place I then touch'd at was not above 40 or 50 Leagues to the N. E. of this: And these were much the same blinking Creatures (here being also abundance of the same kind of Flesh-flies teizing them) and with the same black Skins, and Hair frizled, tall and thin,
&c.
as those were: But we had not the opportunity to see whether these, as the former, wanted two of their fore-Teeth.
We saw a great many places where they had made Fires; and where there were commonly 3 or 4 Boughs stuck up to Windward of them; for the Wind (which is the Sea-breeze) in the day-time blows always one way with them; and the Land-breeze is but small. By their Fire-places we should always find great heaps of Fishshells, of seueral sorts; and 'tis probable that these poor Creatures here lived chiefly on the Shell-fish, as those I before describ'd did on small Fish, which they caught in Wires or Holes in the Sand at Low-water. These gather'd their Shell-fish on the Rocks at Low-water; but had no Wires (that we saw) whereby to get any other sorts of Fish: As among the former I saw not any heaps of Shells as here, though I know they also gather'd some Shell-fish. The Lances also of those were such as these had; however they being upon an Island, with their Women and Children, and all in our Power, they did not there use them against us, as here on the Continent, where we saw none but some of the Men under Head, who come out purposely to observe us. We saw no Houses at either Place; and I believe they have none, since the former People on the Island had none, tho' they had all their Families with them.
Upon returning to my Men I saw that tho' they had dug 8 or 9 Foot deep, yet found no Water. So I returned aboard that Evening, and the next day, being
September
1st, I sent my Boatswain ashore to dig deeper, and sent the Sain with him to catch Fish. While I staid aboard I observed the flowing of the Tide, which runs very swift here, so that our Nun-buoy would not bear above the Water to be seen. It flows here (as on that part of
N. Holland
I describ'd formerly, about 5 Fathom: and here the Flood runs S. E. by S. till the last Quarter; then it sets right in towards the Shore (which lies here S. S. W. and N. N. E.) and the Ebb runs N. W. by N. When the Tides slackned we Fish'd with Hook and Line, as we had already done in several Places on this Coast; on which in this Voyage hitherto, we had found but little Tides: but by the Heighth, and Strength, and Course of them hereabouts, it should seem that if there be such a Passage or Streight going through Eastward to the Great
South Sea,
as I said one might suspect, one would expect to find the Mouth of it somewhere between this Place and
Rosemary
Island, which was the part of
N. Holland
I come last from.
Next Morning my Men came aboard and brought a Rundlet of brackish Water which they got out of another Well that they dug in a Place a mile off, and about half as far from the Shore; but this Water was not fit to drink. However we all concluded that it would serve to boil our Oatmeal, for Burgoo, whereby we might save the Remains of our other Water for drinking, till we should get more; and accordingly the next day we brought aboard 4 Hogsheads of it: but while we were at work about the Well we were sadly pester'd with the Flies, which were more troublesome to us than the Sun, tho' it shone clear and strong upon us all the while very hot. All this while we saw no more of the Natives, but saw some of the Smoaks of some of their Fires at 2 or 3 miles distance.
The Land hereabouts was much like that part of
New Holland
that I formerly described [Vol. I. p. 463.] 'tis low, but seemingly barricado'd with a long Chain of Sand-hills to the Sea, that let's nothing be seen of what is farther within Land. A
high Water the Tides rising so high as they do, the Coast shews very low: but when 'tis low Water it seems to be of an indifferent heighth. At low Water-Mark the Shore is all Rocky, so that then there is no Landing with a Boat; but at high Water a Boat may come in over those Rocks to the Sandy Bay, which runs all along on this Coast. The Land by the Sea for about 5 or 600 yards is a dry Sandy Soil, bearing only Shrubs and Bushes of divers sorts. Some of these had them at this time of the year, yellow Flowers or Blossoms, some blue, and some white; most of them of a very fragrant Smell. Some had Fruit like Peasecods; in each of which there were just ten small Peas: I opened many of them, and found no more nor less. There are also here some of that sort of Bean which I saw at
Rosemary-Island:
and another sort of small, red, hard Pulse, growing in Cods also, with little black Eyes like Beans. I know not their Names, but have seen them used often in the
East-Indies
for weighing Gold; and they make the same use of them at
Guinea,
as I have heard, where the Women also make Bracelets with them to wear about their Arms. These grow on Bushes: but here are also a Fruit like Beans growing on a creeping sort of Shrublike Vine. There was great plenty of all these sorts of Cod-fruit growing on the Sand-hills by the Sea-side, some of them green, some ripe, and some fallen on the Ground: but I could not perceive that any of them had been gathered by the Natives; and might not probably be wholesome Food.
The Land farther in, that is lower than what borders on the Sea, was, so much as we saw of it, very plain and even; partly Savannahs, and partly Woodland. The Savannahs bear a sort of thin course Grass. The Mould is also a courser Sand than that by the Sea-side, and in some places 'tis Clay. Here are a great many Rocks in the large Savannah we were in, which are 5 or 6 Foot high, and round at top like a Hay-cock, very remarkable; some red, and some white. The Woodland lies farther in still; where there were divers sorts of small Trees, scarce any thre
Foot in circumserence; their Bodies 12 o
14 Foot high, with a Head of small Knibs or Boughs. By the sides of the Creeks, especially nigh the Sea, there grow a few small black Mangrove-Trees.
There are but few Land-Animals. I saw some Lizards; and my Men saw two or three Beasts like hungry Wolves, lean like so many Skeletons, being nothing but Skin and Bones: 'Tis probable that it was the Foot of one of those Beasts that I mention'd as seen by us in
N. Holland,
[Vol. I. p. 463.] We saw a Rackoon or two, and one small speckled Snake.
The Land-fowls that we saw here were Crows (just such as ours in
England
) small Hawks, and Kites; a few of each sort: but here are plenty of small Turtle-Doves, that are plump, fat and very good Meat. Here are 2 or 3 sorts of smaller Birds, some as big as Larks, some less; but not many of either sort. The Sea-Fowl are Pelicans, Boobies, Noddies, Curlews, Sea-pies,
&c.
and but few of these neither.
The Sea is plentifully stock'd with the largest Whales that I ever saw: but not to compare with the vast ones of the
Northern
Seas. We saw also a great many Green Turtle, but caught none; here being no Place to set a Turtle-Net in; here being no Channel for them, and the Tides running so strong. We saw some Sharks, and Paracoots; and with Hooks and Lines we caught some Rock-fish and Old Wives. Of Shell-fish, here were
sters both of the common kind for Eati
, and of the Pearl-kind: and also W
onchs, Muscles, Limpits, Perriwinkles,
&c.
and I gather'd a few strange Shells; chiefly a sort not large, and thick-set all about with Rays or Spikes growing in Rows.
And thus having ranged about, a considerable time, upon this Coast, without finding any good fresh Water, or any convenient Place to clean the Ship, as I had hop'd for: And it being moreover the heighth of the dry Season, and my Men growing Scorbutick for want of Refreshments, so that I had little Incouragement to search further; I resolved to leave this Coast, and accordingly in the beginning of
September
set Sail towards
Timor.
AN ACCOUNT Of several PLANTS Collected in
Brasil, New Holland, Timor,
and
New Guinea,
referring to the Figures Engraven on the Copper Plates.
TAB. 1. Fig. 1.
Cotton-flower
from
Baya
in
Brasil.
The Flower consists of a great many Filaments, almost as small as Hairs, betwixt 3 and 4 Inches long, of a Murrey-colour; on the top of them stand small ash-colour'd
apices.
The pedicule of the Flower is inclos'd at the bottom with five narrow stiff Leaves, about six Inches long. There is one of this
enus
in Mr.
Ray
's Supplement, which agrees exactly with this in every respect, only that is twice larger at the least. It was sent from
Surinam
by the Name of
Momoo.
Tab. 1. Fig. 2.
Jasminum Brasilianum luteum, mali limoniae folio nervoso, petalis crassis.
Tab 1. Fig. 3.
Crista Pavonis Brasiliana Bardanae foliis.
The Leaves are very tender and like the top Leaves of
Bardana major,
both as to shape and texture: In the Figure they are represented too stiff and too much serrated.
Tab. 1. Fig. 4.
Filix Brasiliana Osmundae minori serrato folio.
This Fern is of that kind, which bears it's Seed-Vessels in Lines on the edge of the Leaves.
Tab. 2. Fig 1.
Rapuntium Novae Hollandiae, flore magno coccineo.
The
Perianthium
compos'd of five long pointed Parts, the Form of the Seed-Vessel and the smalness of the Seeds, together with the irregular shape of the Flower and thinness of the Leaves, argue this Plant to be a
Rapuntium.
Tab. 2. Fig. 2.
Fucus foliis capillaceis brevissimis, vesiculis minimis donatis.
This elegant
fucus
is of the
Erica Marina
or
Sargazo
kind, but has much finer parts than that. It was collected on the Coast of
New Holland.
Tab 1. Plants found in Brasil
Tab. 2. Plants found in New Holland.
Tab. 3. Plants found in New Holland.
Tab. 2. Fig. 2.
Ricinoides Novae Hollandae anguloso crasso folio.
This Plant is shrubby, has thick woolly Leaves, especially on the under side. Its Fruit is tricoccous, hoary on the out-side with a
Calix
divided into five parts. It comes near
Ricini fructu parvo frucosa Curassavica, folio Phylli, P. B. pr.
Tab. 2. Fig. 2.
Solanum spinosum Novae Hollandiae Phylli foliis subrotundis.
This new
Solanum
bears a blewish Flower like the others of the same Tribe; the Leaves are of a whitish colour, thick and woolly on both sides, scarce an Inch long and near as broad. The Thorns are very sharp and thick set, of a deep Orange colour, especially towards the Points.
Tab. 3. Fig. 1.
Scabiosa (forte) Novae Hollandiae, statices foliis subtus argenteis.
The Flower stands on a Foot-stalk four Inches long, included in a rough Calix of a yellowish colour. The Leaves are not above an Inch long, very narrow like
Thrift,
green on the upper and hoary on the under side, growing in tufts. Whether this Plant be a
Scabious, Thrift
or
chrysum
is hard to judge from the imperfect Flower of the dry'd Speeimen.
Tab. 3. Fig. 2.
Alcea Novae Hollandiae
augustis utrinque villosis.
The Leaves
and under side of the Perianthium of this Plant are all woolly. The Petala are very tender, five in number, scarce so large as the Calix: In the middle stands a a
Columella
thick set with thrummy
apiculae,
which argue this Plant to belong to the Malvaceous kind.
Tab. 3. Fig. 3. Of what
genus
this Shrub or Tree is, is uncertain, agreeing with none yet describ'd, as far as can be judg'd, by the State it is in. It has a very beautiful Flower, of a red colour as far as can be guess'd by the dry
Specimen,
consisting of ten large
Petala,
hoary on both sides, especially underneath; the middle of the Flower is thick set with
Stamin
,
which are woolly at the bottom, the length of the
Petala,
each of them crown'd with its
Apex
The
Calix
is divided into five round pointed parts. The Leaves are like those of
Amelanchier Lob.
green a top and very woolly underneath, not running to a point, as is common in others, but with an Indenture at the upper end.
Tab 4. Plants found in New Holland & Timor
Tab. 4. Fig. 1.
Equisetum Novae Hollandiae frutesceus foliis longissimis.
'Tis doubtful whether this be an
Equisetum
or not; the texture of the Leaves agrees best with that
genus
of any, being articulated one within another at each Joint, which is only proper to this Tribe. The longest of them are about nine Inches.
Tab. 4. Fig. 2.
Colutea Novae Hollandiae sloribus amplis coccineis, umbellatim dispositis macula purpurea notatis.
There being no Leaves to this Plant, 'tis hard to say what
genus
it properly belongs to. The Flowers are very like to the
Colutea Barbae Jovis folio flore coccineo Breynii;
of the same Scarlet colour, with a large deep purple Spot in the
vexillum,
but much bigger, coming all from the same point after the manner of an Umbel. The rudiment of the pod is very woolly, and terminates in a Filament near two Inches long.
Tab. 4. Fig. 3.
Conyza Novae Hollandiae angustis Rorismarini foliis.
This Plant is very much branch'd and seems to be woody. The Flowers stand on very short Pedicules, arising from the
sinus
of the Leaves, which are exactly like
Rosemary,
only less. It tasts very bitter now dry.
Tab. 4. Fig. 4.
Mohoh Insulae Timor.
This is a very odd Plant, agreeing with no describ'd
genus.
The Leaf is almost round, green on the upper side and whitish underneath, with several Fibres running from the insertion of the Pedicule towards the circumference 'tis umbilicated as
Cotyledon aquatica
and
Faba Aegyptiae.
The Flowers are white standing on single Foot-stalks, of the shape of a
Stramoniam,
but divided into four points only, as is the
Perianthium.
Tab. 5. Plants found in ye Sea neer New Guinea.
Tab. 5. Fig. 2.
Fucus ex Nova Guinea Fiuviatilis Pisanae J. B. foliis.
These Plants are so apt to vary in their Leaves, according to their different States, that 'tis hard to say this is distinct from the last. It has in several Places (not all express'd in the Figure) some of the small short Leaves, or Seed-Vessels mention'd in the former; which makes me apt to believe it the same, gather'd in a different state; besides the broad Leaves of that and this agree as to their Shape and Indentures.
An Account of some Fishes that are Figured in
Plate
2. & 3.
See Plate 3. Fig. 5.
THis is a Fish of the Tunny-kind, and agrees well enough with the Figure in Tab. 3. of the Appendix to Mr.
Willughby
's History of Fishes under the Name of
Gurabuca;
it differs something, in the Fins especially, from
Piso
's Figure of the
Guarapucu.
See Plate 3. Figure 4.
This resembles the Figure of the
Guaperva maxima candata
in
Willughby
's
Ichthyol.
Tab. 9, 23. and the
Guaperva
of
Piso,
but does not answer their Figures in every particular.
See Plate 2. Figure 2.
There are 2 sorts of
Porpusses:
The one the long-snouted
Porpuss,
as the Seamen call it; and this is the
Dolphin
of the
Greeks.
The other is the Bottle-nose
Porpuss,
which is generally thought to be the
Phoecena
of
Aristotle.
Plate 2. Figure 7.
This is the
Guaracapema
of
Piso
and
Marcgrave,
by others call'd the
Dorado.
'Tis Figured in
Willughby
's
Ichthyol.
Tab. O. 2. under the Name of
Dolphin Belgis.
Plate 2.
F. 2. The Dolphin of the Antients taken near ye Line, called by our seamen a Porpus
F. 7. A Dolphin as it is usually called by our seamen taken in the open Sea
Plate 3.
F. 5. A Fish of the Tunng kind taken on ye Coast of N. Holland
F 4. A Fish called by the seamen the old wife.
THE INDEX.
A.
ALlegrance,
one of the
Canary
Islands,
Page
4. its View from several Points,
ibid.
Amphisbaena
(Snake) described, 77
Amplitude;
Difference between the Morning and Evening Amplitude, 94
Arisah
(Fruit) described 69
An Account of several Plants collected in
Brasil, New Holland, Timor,
and
New Guinea,
referring to the Figures
Tab.
1, 2, 3, 4, 5. 155
An Account of some Fishes that's Figured on Plate 2. & 3.
B.
Baha de todos los Santos
in
Brasil,
its Harbour and Town described, 49, &c.
The Product and Trade of the Country, 55
Their Shipping and Timber, 58
The Soil and Fruit of the Country, 62, &c.
The Winds and Seasons, 86
The time of cutting Sugar-canes, 87
Its view from several Points, 48
Bill-Bird
described, 74
Birds
of
N. Holland,
122, 123
Blake,
sunk the Spanish Galleons near
Teneriffe,
5
Brasil,
the View of its Coast, See
Bahia.
47
Britain (New)
an Island discovered by the Author, well-inhabited, and probably affording rich Commodities,
Preface
Bubbles
like small Pearl swimming thick in the Sea, 114
C.
Cables
made of a sort of Hair growing on Trees in
Brasil,
57, 64
Callavances,
a Fruit in
Mayo,
23
Canary
-Islands, their Product and Trade, 11 The Character of their present Governor, 11, 12
Cape of Good Hope,
its View from several Points, 48
Cashew
(Fruit) described, 68
Channel
(English) a necessary Caution to those that Sail through it, 3
Chattering Crow
of
Brasil
described, 73
Clocking-Hens
of
Brasil,
74
Coco
-Nut-Tree in
Brasil,
64
Cotton
(Silk) its growth and description, 21, 22, 65
Crusia,
a Fowl, 25
Curlew,
a Fowl, 23
Currecoo
(Bird) described 75
Currents
in the Sea, from 7
deg.
50
min. Lat.
to 3
deg.
22
min. N.
41
Curreso
(Bird) 74
Custard-Apple,
described 33
Cuttle
-Fish,
Plate
1.
Fig.
3.
D.
Dendees,
a sort of Palm-berries in
Brasil,
71
Dogs,
see
Water-Dogs.
Dung-hill
Fowls of
Brasil,
76
F.
Fish
of
N. Holland,
124, 125
Fish
of the
Tunny kind,
and account of, 162
Fish
called by the Seamen the
Old Wise,
an account of, 162
Flamingo,
a Fowl, 23
Flying-Fish,
betwixt the
Canaries
and
C. Verd
-Islands 14
Frape Boat,
its use at the Salt-Pond at
Mayo,
18, &c.
G.
Gallena Pintada,
a Bird, describ'd. 23, &c.
Galleons
(Spanish) sunk by Admiral
Blake,
near
Teneriff,
and continue still there, 5, 6
Gerret-Dennis
-Isle, its Inhabitants discribed,
Preface
Guano
(Beast) of
N. Holland,
123
Guinea
-Hens, see
Gallena Pintada.
Guinea (New)
its Natives,
&c. Pref.
H.
Hammocks;
Gentlemen carried about in them at
Bahia
in
Brasil,
59
Holland (New)
Coast described, 121, &c. 132, &c. 137.
Its Natives described, 145, &c.
Views of several Parts of its Coasts and Islands from several Points, 117
J.
Jago (St.)
Island and Town, 29, &c.
Its Inhabitants, 32
Its Product, 33, &c.
Its Animals, 35, &c.
Its Road a very bad one, 36
Its View, 14
Jenetae
(Bird) described, 74
Jenipah,
or
Jenipapah
(Fruit) described, 68
Ingwa
(Fruit) described, 70
L.
Laguna
in
Teneriff,
described, 7
Lancerota,
one of the
Canary
Islands, 4
Its View from several Points,
ibid.
M.
Mackeraw
(Bird) described 73
Malmsey
-Wine grows in the Island
Teneriff,
9, 11.
Mayo,
one of
C. Verd
Islands, its View, 14
Its Description, 15
A large Account of the making Salt there, 16, &c.
Its Soil and Product, 21, &c.
Its Inhabitants, 27
Its View from several Points, 14
Mendibee
(Fruit) 72
Mericasah
(Fruit) described, 69
Miniola,
a Fowl, 25
Monk
-Fish, 141
Muekishaw
(Fruit) described, 70
Mungaroo
(Fruit) described, 70
Musteran-de-ova
(Fruit) described, 71
N.
Noddy
-Bird described, 142
Northwest
-Winds give Notice before-hand of their coming, at Port
Oratavia
in
Teneriff,
and how provided against, 9, 10
O.
Oratavia,
a Port in
Teneriff,
4, 9.
Otee
(Fruit) described, 70
P.
Palm-Berries
in
Brasil,
71
Papah
a Fruit described 34
Passage
possibly to the South of
New Holland
and
New Guinea
into the great South Sea Eastward, 135, 150
Pernambuc
more Healthy than other Places to the Southward, 44
Petango
(Fruit) described, 70
Petrel
(Bird) described 97
Petumbo
(Fruit) described 70
Physick Nuts
71
Pincon
(Fruit)
Ibid
Pintado
Bird described 95, 96
Plants,
an account of them, 155
Plants
Engraven on Copper,
Tab.
1, 2, 3, 4, 5.
Plants
of
N. Holland,
151
Porpusses,
Pag. 162. and Figured in Plate of Fishes, 2
Portugueze
Civil to the Author, 49
R.
Rabek,
a Fowl, 25
Raccoon
of
N. Holland,
123
Remora
(Fish)
Plate
11.
Fig.
6.
Rosemary
-Island in
N. Holland,
138
The Plant resembling
Rosemary,
from which the Author gives this Name to the Island, is Figured
Tab.
4.
No .
3.
S.
Salt,
a large Account of the Method of making it at
Mayo,
16, &c.
Salt-Ponds
at
Mayo,
kern only in the dry Season, and others in the
West-Indies
in the wet only, 17
Santa-Cruz
in
Teneriff,
its Road, Town and Harbour described 4, 5
Seamen
in great Danger of Sickness, by neglecting to shift their wet Cloaths in hot Countries, 43
Their Ignorance and Obstinacy, a great Impediment in long Voyages, 45, 85, 86, 87, 88.
Sea-Weeds,
see
Weeds.
Shark
of
N. Holland
described 125
Sharks-Bay
in
N. Holland
described, 121, 126, 127.
Shear-Water
(Bird) described, 93
Ship
(the Authors) foundred at Sea,
Pref.
Ship
of 50 Guns built at
Brasil,
58
Skip-jack
(Fish) described. 115
Snake,
see
Water-Snake,
and
Amphisbaena.
Sour-sop
(Fruit) described, 67
Sugar,
the way of refining it in
Brasil
with Clay, 55
T.
Tasman
's Draught rectified, 136
Teneriffe,
4
Its Wines and Fruits and Animals, 9, 10
Its N. W. view, 4
Timber
at
Brasil
as good and more durable than any in
Europe,
58
Timor, Preface
Trees
of
N. Holland,
122
Turtle,
lay their Eggs in the wet Season, 26
Why not eaten by the
Spaniards,
as by the
English,
81
Turtle-Doves
of
Brasil,
74
U.
Variation,
where it increased in Sailing Easterly, 94
Where it decreased in Sailing Easterly, 97
Its uncertainty, and the difficulty of taking it, 99, 100, &c.
A large Table of Variations observed in this Voyage, 102, &c.
W.
Water-dog
of
Brasil,
79, 80
Water-Snake
of
Brasil,
its wonderful manner of catching its Prey, 79
Of
N. Holland,
129, 134.
Weeds
floating in the Sea, 14, 97, 114, 115
Whales
(dead) eaten by Fowls, 94
Whales,
the catching and use of them in
Brasil,
57, 58
Whales
of
N. Holland,
131
Winds
uncertain near the Line, 42
Y.
Yemma
(Bird) described, 73
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