[] Mr William Dampier's VOYAGE ROUND THE Terreſtrial Globe.

THE TRAVELS OF Mr. William Dampier.
CHAP. I.

APril the 17th 1681. about Ten a Clock in the morning, being 12 Leagues N. W. from the Iſland Plata, we left Captain Sharp and thoſe who were willing to go with him in the Ship, and embarked into our Lanch and Ca⯑noas, deſigning for the River of Santa Maria, in the Gulph of St Michael, which is about 200 leagues from the Iſle of Plata. We were in number 44 white Men who bore Arms, a Spaniſh Indian, who bore Arms alſo: and two Moskito Indians, who al⯑ways [2] bear Arms amongſt the Privateers, and are much valued by them for ſtriking Fiſh and Turtle, or Tortoiſe and Manatee or Sea Cow; and five Slaves taken in the South Sas, who fell to our ſhare.

The Craft which carried us was a Lanch, or Long Boat, one Canoa, and another Canoa which had been ſawn aſunder in the middle, in order to have made Bumkins, or Veſſels for carrying water, if we had not ſeparated from our Ship. This we joyn'd to⯑gether again and made it tight; providing Sails to help us along: And for 3 days before we parted, we ſifted ſo much Flower as we could well carry, and rubb'd up 20 or 30 pound of Chocolate with Sugar to ſweeten it; theſe things and a Kettle the Slaves carried alſo on their backs after we landed. And becauſe there were ſome who deſigned to go with us that we knew were not well able to march, we gave out, that if any man faultred in the Journey over Land, he muſt expect to be ſhot to death; for we knew that the Spaniards would ſoon b [...] after us, and one man falling into their hands might be the ruin of us all, by giving an account of our ſtrength and condition: yet this would not de'er 'em from going with us. We had but little Wind when we parted from the Ship; but before 12 a clock the Sea-breeze came in ſtrong which was like to founder us before we got in with the ſhore; for our ſecurity therefore, we cut up an old dry Hide that we brought with us, and barricadoed the Lanch all round with it to keep the water out. About 10 a clock at night we got in about 7 leagues to wind⯑ward of Cape Paſſao under the Line, and then it proved calm; and we lay and drove all night, be⯑ing fatigued the preceeding day. The 18th day we had little wind till the afternoon; and then we made ſail, ſtanding along the ſhore to the North-ward, having the wind at S. S. W. and fair wea⯑ther.

[3] At 7 a clock we came abreſt of Cape Paſſao, and found a ſmall Bark at an Anchor in a ſmall Bay to Leeward of the Cape, which we took, our own Boats being too ſmall to tranſport us. We took her juſt under the Equinoctial Line; ſhe was not only a help to us, but in taking her we were ſafe from being deſcribed: we did not deſign to have meddled with any when we parted with our conſorts, nor to have ſeen any if we could have helped it. The Bark came from Gallio laden with Timber, and was bound for Guiaquil.

The 19th day in the morning we came to an an⯑chor about 12 leagues to the Southward of Cape St Franciſco, to put our new Bark into a better trim. In 3 or 4 hours time we finiſhed our buſineſs, and came to ſail again, and ſteered along the Coaſt with the Wind at S. S. W. intending to touch at Gorgonia.

Being to the Northward of Cape St Franciſco we met with very wet weather; but the Wind conti⯑nuing we arrived at Gorgonia the 24th day in the morning, before it was light; we were afraid to approach it in the day time, for fear the Spaniards ſhould lie there for us, it being the place where we careened lately, and where they might expect us.

When we came aſhore we found the Spaniards had been there to ſeek after us, by a Houſe they had built, which would entertain 100 Men, and by a great Croſs before the Doors. This was token e⯑nough that the Spaniards did expect us this day a⯑gain; therefore we examined our Priſoners if they knew any thing of it, who confeſſed they had heard of a Pereago, (or a large Canoa) that row'd with 14 Oars, which was kept on the River on the Main, and once in 2 or 3 days came over to Gor⯑gonia purpoſely to ſee for us, and that having diſ⯑covered us, ſhe was to make all ſpeed to Panama with the News; where they had 3 Ships ready to ſend after us.

[4] We lay here all the day, and ſcrubb'd our new Bark, that if ever we ſhould be chaſed we might the better eſcape: we filled our Water, and in the evening went from thence, having the Wind at S. W. a brisk gale.

The 25th day we had much Wind and Rain, and we loſt the Canoa that had been cut and was join⯑ed together; we would have kept all our Canoas to carry us up the River, the Bark not being ſo convenient.

The 27th day we went from thence with a mo⯑derate gale of Wind at S W. In the afternoon we had exceſſive ſhowers of Rain.

The 28th day was very wet all the morning; be⯑twixt 10 or 11 it cleared up, and we ſaw two great Ships about a league and half to the Weſt⯑ward of us, we being then two leagues from the ſhore, and about 10 leagues to the Southward of point Garrachina. Theſe Ships had been cruiſing between Gorgonia and the Gulf 6 months; but whe⯑ther our Priſoners did know it I cannot tell.

We preſently furled our Sails, and rowed in cloſe under the ſhore, knowing that they were Cruiſers; for if they had been bound to Panama this Wind would have carried them thither; and no Ships bound from Panama come on this ſide the Bay, but keep the North ſide of the Bay till as far as the Keys of Quibo to the Weſtward; and then if they are bound to the Southward they ſtand over and [...]ay ſetch Gallco, or betwixt it and Cape St. Franciſco.

The Glare did not continue long before it rained again, and kept us from the ſight of each other: but if they had ſeen and chaced us, we were reſol⯑ved to run our Bark and Canoas aſhore, and take our ſelves to the Mountains and travel over Land; for we knew that the Indians which lived in theſe parts never had any Commerce with the Spaniards; ſo we might have had a chance for our Lives.

[5] The 29th day, at 9 a clock in the morning, we came to an Anchor at Point Garrachina, about 7 leagues from the Gulph of St Michael, which was the place were we firſt come into the South Seas, and the way by which we deſigned to return.

Here we lay all the day, and went aſhore and dried our Cloaths, clean'd our Guns, dried our Am⯑munition, and fixt our ſelves againſt our Enemies, if we ſhould be attack'd; for we did expect to find ſome oppoſition at Landing: we likewiſe kept a good Look-out all the day, for fear of thoſe two Ships they ſaw the day before.

The 30th day in the morning at 8 a Clock we came into the Gulf of St Michael's mouth; for we put from Point Garrachina in the Evening, deſign⯑ing to have reach'd the Iſlands in the Gulf before day; that we might the better work our eſcape from our Enemies, if we ſhould find any of them waiting to ſtop our paſſage.

About 9 a clock we came to an Anchor a mile without a large Iſland, which lies 4 miles from the mouth of the River; we had other ſmall Iſlands without us, and might have gone up into the Ri⯑ver, having a ſtrong tyde of flood, but would not adventure farther till we had lookt well about us.

We immediately ſent a Canoa aſhoar on the Iſland, where we ſaw (what we always feared) a Ship at the mouth of the River, lying cloſe by the ſhore, and a large Tent by it, by which we found it would be a hard task for us to eſcape them.

When the Canoa came aboard with this news, ſome of our men were a little diſheartned; but it was no more than I ever expected.

Our care was now to get ſafe over land, ſeeing we could not land here according to our deſire: Therefore before the Tyde of flood was ſpent, we manned our Canoa and rowed again to the Iſland to ſee if the Enemy was yet in motion. When we [6] came aſhoar we diſperſed our ſelves all over th [...] Iſland, to prevent our Enemies from coming any way to view us: and preſently after high-water we ſaw a ſmall Canoa coming over from the Ship to the Iſland that we were on, which made us all get into our Canoa, and wait their coming; and we lay cloſe till they came within Piſtol-ſhot of us, and then being ready, we ſtarted out and took them; there were in her one white man and two Indians, who being examined, told us that the Ship which we ſaw at the Rivers mouth, had lain there ſix months, guarding the River, waiting for our coming; that ſhe had 12 Guns and 150 Seamen and Souldiers; that the Seamen all lay aboard, but the Souldiers lay aſhore in their Tents; that there were 300 men in the Mines, who had all ſmall Arms, and would be abroad in two Tydes time; they likewiſe told us, that there were two Ships cruiſing in the Bay, between this place and Gorgonia; the biggeſt had 20 Guns, and 200 Men, the other 10 Guns, and 150 Men: Beſides all this, they told us that the Indians on this ſide the Coun⯑try were our Enemies, which was the worſt news of all. However we preſently brought theſe Pri⯑ſoners aboard, and got under ſail, turning out with the Tyde of Ebb, for it was not convenient to ſtay longer there.

We did not long conſider what to do, but in⯑tended to land that night, or the next day betimes; for we did not queſtion but we ſhould either get a good commerce with the Indians, by ſuch toys as we had purpoſely brought with us, or elſe force our way through their Country, in ſpight of all their oppoſition: and we did not fear what theſe Spaniards could do againſt us, in caſe they ſhould land and come after us. We had a ſtrong Souther⯑ly Wind, which blew right in; and the Tyde of Ebb being far ſpent, we could not turn out.

[7] I perſwaded them to run into the River of Congo which is a large River, about three leagues from the Iſlands where we lay; which with a Southerly Wind we could have done: and when we were got ſo high as the Tide flows, then we might have landed. But all the arguments I could uſe were not of force ſufficient to convince them that there was a large River ſo near us, but they would land ſomewhere, they neither did know how, where, nor when.

When we had rowed and towed againſt the wind all night; we juſt got about Cape St. Lorenzo in the morning, and ſailed about 4 miles farther to the Weſtward, and run into a ſmall Creek with⯑in two Keys, or little Iſlands, and rowed up to the head of the Creek, being about a mile up, and there we landed May 1. 1681.

We got out all our Proviſion and Cloaths, and then ſunk our Veſſel.

While we were landing, and fixing our Snap⯑ſacks to march, our Moskito Indians ſtruck a plen⯑tiful diſh of Fiſh, which we immediately dreſt, and therewith ſatisfied our hunger.

Having made mention of the Moskito Indians, it may not be amiſs to conclude this Chapter with a ſhort account of them. They are tall, well made, raw boned, luſty, ſtrong, and nimble of foot, long viſaged, lank black hair, look ſtern, hard fa⯑voured, and of a dark Copper-colour Complexion. They are but a ſmall Nation or Family, and not 100 men of them in number, inhabiting on the Main, on the North ſide, near Cape Gratia Dios; between Cape Honduras and Nicaragua. They are very ingenious at throwing the Lance, Fiſgig, Har⯑poon, or any manner of Dart, being bred to it from their Infancy, for the Children imitating their Pa⯑rents, never go abroad without a Lance in their hands, which they throw at any object, till uſe hath [8] made them maſters of the Art. Then they learn to put by a Lance, Arrow or Dart; the manner is thus. Two Boys ſtand at a ſmall diſtance, and Dart a blunt ſtick at one another, each of them holding a ſmall ſtick in his right hand, with which he ſtrikes away that which was darted at him. As they grow in years they become more dexterous and courageous, and then they will ſtand a fair mark to any one that will ſhoot Arrows at them; which they will put by with a very ſmall ſtick, no bigger than the rod of a Fowling-piece; and when they are grown to be men, they will guard them⯑ſelves from Arrows, tho they come very thick at them, provided two do not happen to come at once. They have extraordinary good Eyes, and will diſcry a Sail at Sea farther, and ſee any thing better than we. Their chiefeſt Employment in their own Country is to ſtrike Fiſh, Turtle or Manatee; the manner of which I deſcribe elſe⯑where, Chap. 3. For this they are eſteemed and co⯑veted by all Privateers; for one or two of them in a Ship will maintain 100 men. So that when we careen our Ships, we chooſe commonly ſuch places, where there is plenty of Turtle or Manatee for theſe Mos⯑kito men to ſtrike; and it is very rare to find Pri⯑vateers deſtitute of one or more of them, when the Commander, or moſt oſ the men are Engliſh; but they do not love the French, and the Spaniards they hate mortally. When they come among Pri⯑vateers, they get the uſe of Guns, and prove very good Marks-men: They behave themſelvis very bold in fight, and never ſeem to flinch nor hang back; for they think that the white men with whom they are, know better than they do when it is beſt to fight; and let the diſadvantage of their party be never ſo great, they will never yield not give back while any of their party ſtand. I could never perceive any Religion nor any Ceremonies, [9] or ſuperſtitious Obſervations among them, being ready to imitate us in whatſoever they ſaw us do at any time. Only they ſeem to fear the Devil, whom they call Walleſaw; and they ſay he often appears to ſome among them, whom our men commonly call their Prieſts, when they deſire to ſpeak with him on urgent buſineſs; but the reſt know not any thing of him, nor how he appears, otherwiſe than as theſe Prieſts tell them. Yet they all ſay they muſt not anger him, for then he will beat them, and that ſometimes he carries away theſe their Prieſts. Thus much I have heard from ſome of them who ſpeak good Engliſh.

They marry but one Wife, with whom they live till death ſeperates them. At their firſt coming to⯑gether the man makes a very ſmall Plantation, for there is Land enough, and they may chooſe what ſpot they pleaſe. They delight to ſettle near the Sea, or by ſome River, for the ſake of ſtriking Fiſh, their beloved Employment.

Far within Land there are other Indians, with whom they are always at War. After the man hath cleared a ſpot of Land, and hath planted it, he ſeldom minds it afterward, but leaves the ma⯑naging of it to his Wife, and he goes out a ſtriking: Sometimes he ſeeks only for Fiſh, at other times for Turtle or Manatee, and whatever he gets he brings home to his Wife, and never ſtirs out to ſeek for more till it is all eaten. When hunger begins to bite, he either takes his Canoa and ſ [...]s for more game at Sea, or walks out into the Woods and hunts about for Peccary, Warree, each a ſort of wild Hogs or Dear, and ſeldom returns empty handed, nor ſeeks for any more ſo long as any of it laſts. Their Plantations are ſo ſmall, that they cannot ſubſiſt with what they produce; for their largeſt Plantations have not above 20 or 30 Plan⯑tain-Trees, a bed of Yams and Potatoes, a buſh [10] of Indian Pepper, and a ſmall ſpot of Pine-apples which laſt fruit is a main thing they delight in, for with theſe they make a ſort of drink which our men call Pine-drink, much eſteemed by theſe Mos⯑kito's, and to which they invite each other to be merry, providing Fiſh and Fleſh alſo. Whoever of them makes of this Liquor treats his Neighbours, making a little Canoa full at a time, and ſo enough to make them all drunk; and it is ſeldom that ſuch Feaſts are made, but the party that makes them hath ſome deſign, either to be revenged for ſome injury done him, or to debate of ſuch differences as have happened between him and his Neighbours, and to examin into the truth of ſuch Matters. Yet before they are warmed with drink, they never ſpeak one word of their grievances; and the Wo⯑men, who commonly know their Husbands deſigns, prevent them from doing any injury to each other by hiding their Lances, Harpoons, Bows and Ar⯑rows, or any other weapon that they have.

Theſe Moskito's are in general very civil and kind to the Engliſh, of whom they receive a great deal oſ reſpect, both when they are aboard their Ships, and alſo aſhore, either in Jamaica, or elſe⯑where, whither they often come with the Seamen. We always humour them, letting them go any where as they will, and return to their Country in any Veſſel bound that way if they pleaſe. They will have the management of themſelves in their ſtriking, and will go in their own little Canoa, which our men could not go in without danger of everſetting; nor will they then let any white man come into their Canoa, but will go a ſtriking in it juſt as they pleaſe: All which they allow them. For ſhould we croſs them, tho they ſhould ſee Shoals of Fiſh, or Turtle, or the like, they will purpoſely ſtride their Harpoons and Turtle irons aſide, or ſo glance them as to kill nothing. They have no form [11] of Government among them, but acknowledge the King of England for their Soveraign: They learn our Language, and take the Governour of Ja⯑maica to be one of the greateſt Princes in the World.

While they are among the Engliſh they wear good Cloaths, and take delight to go neat and tight; but when they return again to their own Country they put by all their Cloaths, and go after their own Country faſhion, wearing only a ſmall piece of Linnen tyed about their waſtes, hanging down to their knees.

CHAP. II.

BEing landed, May the 1ſt, we began our march about 3 a Clock in the afternoon, directing our courſe by our Pocket Compaſſes N. E. and having gone about 2 miles, we came to the foot of a Hill where we built ſmall Huts and lay all night; having exceſſive Rains till 12 a Clock.

The 2d day in the morning having ſair weather we aſcended the Hill, and found a ſmall Indian path, which we followed till we found it ran too much Eaſterly, and then doubting it would carry us out of our way, we climb'd ſome of the higheſt Trees on the Hill, which was not meanly furniſhed with as large tall Trees as ever I ſaw: At length we diſcovered ſome Houſes in a Valley on the North ſide of the Hill, but it being ſteep could [12] not deſcend on that ſide, but followed the ſmall path which led us down the Hill on the Eaſt ſide, where we preſently found ſeveral other Indian Houſes. The firſt that we came to at the foot of the Hill, had none but women at home, who could not ſpeak Spaniſh, but gave each of us a good Cala⯑baſh or Shell full of Corn-drink. The other Houſes had ſome men at home, but none that ſpoke Spa⯑niſh; yet we made ſhift to buy ſuch food as their Houſes or Plantations afforded, which we dreſt, and eat altogether, having all ſorts of our Provi⯑ſion in common, becauſe none ſhould live better than others, or pay dearer for any thing than it was worth. This day we had marched 6 mile.

In the evening the Husbands of thoſe women came home, and told us in broken Spaniſh, that they had been on board of the Guard Ship, which we fled from two days before, that we were now not above 3 mile from the mouth of the River Congo, and that they could go from thence aboard the Guard Ship in half a Tydes time.

This evening we ſupped plentifully on Fowls, and Pecary, a ſort of wild Hogs which we bought of the Indins; Yams, Potatoes and Plantains ſerved us for Bread, whereof we had enough. After Sup⯑per we agreed with one of theſe Indians to guide us a days march into the Country, towards the North ſide; he was to have for his pains a Hatchet, and his bargain was to bring us to a certain Indians ha⯑bitation, who could ſpeak Spaniſh; from whom we were in hopes to be better ſatisfied of our Journey.

The 3d day having fair weather, we began to ſtir betimes, and ſet out batween 6: nd 7 a clock, marching through ſeveral old ruined Plantations. This morning one of our men being tired gave us the ſlip. By 12 a Clock we had gone 8 mile, and arrived at the Indians houſe, who lived on the bank of the River Congo, and ſpoke very good Spaniſh; to [13] [...]hom we declared the reaſon of this viſit.

At firſt he ſeemed to be very dubious of enter⯑ [...]ining any diſcourſe with us, and gave very im⯑ [...]ertinent anſwers to the queſtions that we demand⯑ [...]d of him; he told us he knew no way to the North ſide of the Country, he could carry us to Cheapo or Santa Maria, which we knew to be Spa⯑niſh Garriſons, the one lying to the Eaſtward of us, the other to the Weſtward: either of them at leaſt 20 miles out of our way. We could get no o⯑ther anſwer from him, and all his diſcourſe was in ſuch an angry tone, as plainly declared he was not our friend. However, we were forced to make a virtue of neceſſity, and humour him, for it was neither time nor place to be angry with the Indians; all our lives lying in their hands.

We were now at a great loſs, not knowing what courſe to take, for we tempted him with Beads, Money, Hatchets, Macheats, or long Knives; but nothing would work on him, till one of our men took a Sky-coloured Petticoat out of his bag and put it on his Wife; who was ſo much pleaſed with the Preſent, that ſhe immediately began to chatter at her Husband, and ſoon brought him into a better humour. He could then tells us he knew the way to the North ſide, and would have gone with us, but that he cut his foot 2 days before, which made him uncapable of ſerving us himſelf: But he would take care that we ſhould not want a guide; and therefore he hired the ſame Indian who brought us hither, to conduct us 2 days march further for another Hatchet. The old man would have ſtayed us here all the day, becauſe it rained very hard; but our buſineſs required more haſte, our Enemies lying ſo near us, for he told us that he could go from his houſe aboard the Guard-Ship in a Tydes time; and this was the 4th day ſince they ſaw us, ſo we marched 3 mile farther, [14] and then built Hutts, where we ſtayed all night; it rained all the afternoon, and greateſt part of the night,

The 4th day we began our march betimes, for the forenoons were commonly fair, but much rain afternoon: tho whether it rained or ſhined it was much at one with us, for I verily believe we croſt the Rivers 30 times this day: the Indians having no paths to travel from one part of the Country to another: and therefore guided themſelves by the Rivers. We marched this day 12 miles, and then built our Hutts and lay down to ſleep; but we al⯑ways kept two men on the watch, otherwiſe our own Slaves might have knockt us on the head while we ſlept. It rained violently all the afternoon, and moſt part of the night. We had much ado to kindle a fire this evening, our Hutts were but very mean and ordinary. and our fire ſmall, ſo that we could not dry our Cloaths, ſcarce warm our ſelves, and no ſort of food for the Belly; all which made it very hard with us, I confeſs theſe hardſhips quite expell'd the thoughts of an Enemy; for now having been 4 days in the Country we began to have but few other cares than how to get Guides and Food, the Spaniards were ſeldom in our thoughts.

The 5th day we ſet out in the morning betimes, and having travell'd 7 miles in thoſe wild pathleſs Woods, by 10 a clock in the morning we arrived at a young Spaniſh Indian's Houſe who had former⯑ly lived with the Biſhop of Panama. The young Indian was very brisk, ſpoke very good Spaniſh, and received us very kindly. This Plantation afforded us ſtore of Proviſion, Yams, and Potaroes, but no⯑thing of any fleſh, beſide 2 fat Monkeys we ſhot, part whereof we diſtributed to ſome of our Com⯑pany who were weak and ſickly; for others we got Eggs, and ſuch refreſhments as the Indians had, for we ſtill provided for the ſick and weak. We [15] had a Spaniſh Indian in our company, who firſt took up Arms with Captain Sawkins, and had been with us ever ſince his death. He was perſwaded to live here by the maſter of the houſe, who promiſed him his Siſter in marriage, and to be aſſiſtant to him in clearing a Plantation; but we would not conſent to part ftom him here, for fear of ſome treachery, but promiſed to releaſe him in two or three days, when we were certainly out of danger of our Enemies. We ſtayed here all the Afternoon and dryed our Cloaths and Ammunition, cleared our Guns, and provided ourſelves for a march the next morning.

Our Chyrurgeon, Mr Waſer, came to a ſad diſ⯑aſter here: being drying his Powder, a careleſs fel⯑low paſſed by with his Pipe lighted, and ſet fire to his Powder, which blew up and ſcorch'd his Knee; and reduced him to that condition, that he was not able to march; wherefore we allowed him a Slave to carry his things, being all of us the more concern'd at the accident, becauſe lyable our ſelves every moment to misfortune, and none to look after us but him. This Indian Plantation was ſeated on the bank of the River Congo, in a very fat Soyl; and thus far we might have come in our Canoa, if I could have perſwaded them to it.

The 6th day we ſet out again, having hired ano⯑ther guide. Here we firſt croſt the River Congo in a Canoa, having been from our firſt Landing on the Weſt ſide of the River; and being over, we march⯑ed to the Eaſtward 2 mile, and came to another River, which we forded ſeveral times, though it was very deep. Two of our men were not able to keep company with us, but came after us as they were able. The laſt time we forded the River, it was ſo deep, that our talleſt men ſtood in the deep⯑eſt place, and handed the ſick, weak, and ſhort men; by which means we all got over ſafe, ex⯑cept [16] thoſe two who were behind. Foreſeeing a neceſſity of wading through Rivers frequently in our Land-march, I took care before I left the Ship to provide my ſelf a large Joint of Bambo, which I ſtopt at both ends, cloſing it with Wax, ſo as to keep out any Water. In this I preſerved my Jour⯑nal and other Writings from being wet, tho I was often forced to ſwim. When we were over this River we ſat down to wait the coming of our Conſorts who were left behind, and in half an hour they came. But the River by that time was ſo high, that they could not get over it, neither could we help them over, but bid them be of good comfort and ſtay till the River did fall, But we marched 2 mile farther by the ſide of the River, and there built our Hutts, having gone this day 6 miles. We had ſcarce finiſhed our Hutts before the River roſe much higher, and over-flowing the Banks, obliged us to remove into higher ground: But the next night came on before we could build more Hutts, ſo we lay ſtraggling in the Woods, ſome under one Tree, ſome under another, as we could find conveniency, which might have been in⯑different comfortable if the weather had been fair, but the greateſt part of the night we had extraor⯑dinary hard Rain, with much Lightening and terri⯑ble claps of Thunder. Theſe hardſhips and incon⯑veniencies made us all careleſs, and there was no Watch kept, (tho I believe no body did ſleep:) So our Slaves taking opportunity, went away in the night; all but one, who was hid in ſome hole and knew nothing of their deſign, or elſe fell aſleep. Thoſe that went away: carried with them our Chy⯑rurgeons Gun and all his Money.

The next morning being the 8th day, we went to the Rivers ſide, and found it much fallen; and here our Guide would have us ford it again, which being deep, and the current running ſwift, we could [17] not. Then we contrived to ſwim over, thoſe that could not ſwim, we were reſolved to help over as well as we could: But this was not feizable: for we ſhould not be able to get all our things over. At length we concluded to ſend one man over with a Line, who ſhould hale over all our things firſt, and then get the men over. This be⯑ing agreed on, one George Gayny took the end of a Line, and made it faſt about his neck, and left the other end aſhore, and one man ſtood by the Line to clear it away to him. But when Gayny was in the midſt of the water, the Line in drawing after him chanc'd to kink, or grow entangled; and he that ſtood by to clear it away, ſtopt the Line, which turned Gayny on his back, and he that had the Line in his hand threw it all into the River after him, thinking he might recover himſelf, but the ſtream running very ſwift, and the man having three hundred Dollars at his back, was carried down, and never ſeen more by us. Thoſe two men whom we left behind the day before, told us afterwards that they found him lying dead in a Creek, where the Eddy had driven him aſhore, and the Money on his back; but they meddled not with any of it, being only in care how to work their way thro a wild unknown Country. This put a period to that contrivance. This was the fourth man that we loſt in this Land Journey; for thoſe two men that we left the day before, did not come to us till we were in the North Seas, ſo we yielded them alſo for loſt. Being fruſtrated of getting over the River this way, we lookt about for a Tree to fell acroſs the River. At length we found one, which we cut down, and it reached clear over: on this we paſſed to the other ſide, where we found a ſmall Planta in-walk, which we ſoon ranſackt.

While we were buſy getting Plantains, our Guide was gone, but in leſs than two hours came to us [18] again, and brought with him an old Indian, to whom he delivered up his charge; and we gave him a Hatchet and diſmiſt him, and entred our ſelves under the conduct of our new Guide, who imme⯑diately led us away, and croſt another River, and enter'd into a large Valley of the fatteſt Land I did ever take notice of: the Trees were not very thick, but the largeſt that I ſaw in my Travels: we ſaw great tracks which were made by the Pecaries, but ſaw none of'em. We marched in this pleaſantCoun⯑try till 3 a Clock in the afternoon, in all about 4 Miles, and then arrived at the old man's Country-houſe, which was only a Habitation for Hunting: there was a ſmall Plantain walk, ſome Yams and Potatoes. Here we took up our quarters for this day, and refreſhed our ſelves with ſuch food as the place afforded, and dryed our Cloaths and Ammu⯑nition. At this place our Indian provided to leave us, for now we thought our ſelves paſt danger. This was he that was perſwaded to ſtay at the laſt Houſe we came from, to marry the young man's Siſter; and we diſmiſs'd him according to our pro⯑miſe.

The 9th day the old man conducted us towards his own habitation. We marched about 5 miles in this Valley, and then aſcended a Hill, and travel led about 5 miles farther over two or three ſmall Hills, before we came to any ſettlement. Half a mile before we came to the Plantations, we light of a path, which carried us to the Indians habitation. We ſaw many wooden Croſſes erected in the way, which created ſome jealouſy in us that here were ſome Spaniards: Therefore we new primed all our Guns, and provided our ſelves for an Enemy; but coming into the Town found none but Indians, who were all got together in a large houſe to receive us: for the old man had a little boy with him, that he ſent before.

[19] They made us welcome to ſuch as they had, which was very mean; for theſe were new Planta⯑tions, the Corn being not eared. Potatoes, Yams, and Plantains they had none, but what they brought from their old Plantations. There was none of them ſpoke good Spaniſh: Two young men could ſpeak a little; it cauſed us to take more notice of them. To theſe we made a preſent, and deſired them to get us a Guide to conduct us to the North ſide, or part of the way, which they promiſed to do themſelves, if we would reward them for it, but told us we muſt lye ſtill the next day. But we thought our ſelves nearer the North Sea than we were, and propoſed to go without a Guide, rather than ſtay here a whole day. However, ſome of our men who were tired, reſolved to ſtay behind; and Mr Wafer our Chyrurgeon, who marched in great pain ever ſince his Knee was burned with powder, was reſolved to ſtay with them.

The tenth day we got up betimes reſolving to march, but the Indians oppoſed it as much as they could, but ſeeing they could not perſwade us to ſtay, they came with us; and having taken leave of our friends, we ſet out.

Here therefore we left the Chyrurgeon and two more, as we ſaid, and marched away to the Eaſt⯑ward following our Guides. But we often look'd on our Pocket Compaſſes, and ſhewed them to the Guides, pointing at the way that we would go, which made them ſhake their heads, and ſay, they were pretty things, but not convenient for us Af⯑ter we had deſcended the Hills on which the Town ſtood, we come down into a Valley, and guided our ſelves by a River, which we croſſed 32 times; and having marched 9 miles, we built Hutts and lay there all night. This evening I killed a Quaum, a large Bird as big as a Turkey, wherewith we treated our Guides, for we brought no Proviſion [20] with us. This night our Slave run away.

The eleventh day we marched 10 miles farther, and built Hutts at night; but went ſupperleſs to bed.

The twelfth in the morning we croſſed a deep River, paſſing over it on a Tree, and marched 7 mile in a low ſwampy ground: and came to the ſide of a great deep River, but could not get over. We built Hutts upon its Banks and lay there all night, upon our Barbecu's, or frames of Sticks raiſed a⯑bout 3 foot from the ground.

The thirteenth day, when we turned out, the River had overflow'd its Banks, and was 2 foot deep in our Hutts, and our Guides went from us not tel⯑ling us their intent, which made us think they were returned home again. Now we began to repent our haſte in coming from the laſt ſettlements, for we had no food ſince we came from thence. Indeed we got Macaw-berries in this place, wherewith we ſatisfied our ſelves this day, though courſly.

The fourteenth day in the morning betimes, our Guides came to us again; and the Waters being fallen within their bounds, they carried us to a Tree that ſtood on the Bank of the River, and told us if we could fell that Tree croſs it, we might paſs; if not we could paſs no further. Therefore we ſet two of the beſt Ax men that we had, who fell'd it exactly croſs the River, and the boughs juſt reached over; on this we paſſed very ſafe. We afterwards croſſed another River three times, with much difficulty, and at 3 a clock in the afternoon we came to an Indian ſettlement, where we met a drove of Monkeys, and kill'd 4 of them, and ſtay⯑ed here all night; having marched this day 6 miles. Here we got Plantains enough, and a kind recepti⯑on of the Indian that lived here all alone, except one Boy to wait on him.

[21] The fifteeenth day when we ſet out, the kind Indian and his Boy went with us in a Canoa, and ſet us over ſuch places as we could not ford: and being paſt thoſe great Rivers, he returned back a⯑gain, having helped us at leaſt 2 mile. We marched afterwards 5 mile, and came to large Plantain walks, where we took up our quarters that night; we there fed plentifully on Plantains, both ripe and green, and had fair weather all the day and night. I think theſe were the largeſt Plantain walks, and the biggeſt Plantains that ever I ſaw, but no houſe near them: We gathered what we pleaſed by our Guides orders.

The ſixteenth day we marched 3 mile, and came to a large ſettlement, where we abode all day: Not a man of us but wiſht the Journey at an end; our Feet being bliſtered, and our Thighs ſtript with wading through ſo many Rivers; the way being al⯑moſt continually through Rivers or pathleſs Woods. In the afternoon five of us went to ſeek for game, and kill'd 3 Monkeys, which we dreſt for Supper. Here we firſt began to have fair weather, which continued with us till we came to the North Seas.

The eighteenth day we ſet out at 10 a Clock, and the Indians with 5 Canoas carried us a league up a River; and when we landed, the kind Indians went with us and carried our burthens. We march⯑ed 3 mile farther and then built our Hutts, having travelled from the laſt ſettlements 6 miles.

The nineteenth day our Guides loſt their way, and we did not march above 2 miles.

The twentieth day by 12 a Clock we came to Cheapo River. The Rivers we croſt hitherto run all into the South Seas; and this of Cheapo was the laſt we met with that run that way. Here an old man who came from the laſt ſettlements, deſtribu [...]ed his burthen of Plantains amongſt us, and taking his leave returned home. Afterwards we forded the River [22] and marched to the foot of a very high Mountain, where we lay all night. This day we marched a⯑bout 9 miles.

The 21ſt day ſome of the Indians returned back, and we marched up a very high mountain; being on the top we went ſome miles on a ridge, and ſteep on both ſides; then deſcended a little and came to a fine Spring, where we lay all night, having gone this day about 9 miles, the weather ſtill very fair and clear.

The 22d day we marched over another very high Mountain, keeping on the ridge 5 miles. When we came to the North end, we, to our great comfort, ſaw the Sea; then we deſcended and parted our ſelves into [...] Companies, and lay by the ſide of a River, which was the firſt we met that runs into the North Sea.

The 23d day we came through ſeveral large Plan⯑tain walks, and at 10 a clock came to an Indians habitation, not far from the North Sea. Here we got Canoas to carry us down the River Conception to the Sea ſide; having gone this day 7 miles. We found a great many Indians at the mouth of this River. They had ſettled themſelves here, for the be⯑nefit of Trade with the Privateers; and their Com⯑modities were Yams, Potatoes, Plantains, Sugar, C [...]es, Fowls and Eggs.

Theſe Indians told us, that there had been a great many Engliſh and French Ships here, which were all gone but one Barco-longo, a French Privateer that lay at La Sounds Key or Iſland. This Iſland is about; leagues from the mouth of the River Conception, and is one of the Samballoes, a range of Iſlands reaching for about [...] leagues, from point Samballas to G [...] ⯑den Iſland Eaſtward. Theſe Iſlands or Keys, as we call them, were firſt made the Rendezvous of Pri⯑ [...]eers in the year 1679, being very convenient [...] ca [...]ing, and had names given to ſome of [23] them by the Captains of the Privateers; as this La Sounds Key particularly.

Thus we finiſhed our Journey from the South Sea to the North in 23 days; in which by my ac⯑count we travelled 110 miles, croſſing ſome very high Mountains; but our common march was in the Valleys among deep and dangerous Rivers. At our firſt landing in this Country, we were told that the Indians were our Enemies; we knew the Rivers to be deep, the wet ſeaſon to be coming in; yet, excepting thoſe we left behind, we loſt but one man, who was drowned as I ſaid. Our firſt land⯑ing place on the South Coaſt was very diſadvanta⯑geous, for we travell'd at leaſt fifty miles more than we need to have done, could we have gone up Cheapo River, or Santa Maria River; for at either of theſe places a man may paſs from Sea to Sea in 3 days time with eaſe. The Indians can do it in a day and a half, by which you may ſee how eaſy it is for a party of men to travel over. I muſt confeſs the Indians did aſſiſt us very much, and I queſtion whether ever we had got over without their aſſiſt⯑ance, becauſe they brought us from time to time to their Plantations, where we always got Proviſi⯑on, which elſe we ſhould have wanted. But if a party of 500 or 600 men, or more, were minded to travel from the North to the South Seas, they may do it without asking leave of the Indians; tho it be much better to be friends with them.

On the 24th of May, (having lain one night at the Rivers mouth) we all went on board the Privateer, who lay at La Sounds Key. It was a French Veſſel Captain Triſtian Commander. The firſt thing we did was to get ſuch things as we could to gratifie our Indian Guides, for we were reſolved to reward them to their hearts content. This we did by gi⯑ving them Beads, Knives, Sciſſars and Looking-glaſſes, which we bought of the Privateers Crew; [24] and a half Dollar a man from each of us; which we would have beſtowed in goods alſo, but could not get any, the Privateer having no more toys. They were ſo well ſatisfied with theſe, that they return'd with joy to their friends; and were very kind to our Conſorts whom we left behind, as Mr. Wafer our Chyrurgeon and the reſt of them told us, when they came to us ſome months afterwards, as ſhall be ſaid hereafter.

I might have given a further account of ſeveral things relating to this Country; the In-land parts of which are ſo little known to the Europeans. But I ſhall leave this province to Mr. Wafer, who made a longer abode in it than I, and is better able to do it that any man than I know; and is now preparing a particular Deſcription of this Country for the Preſs.

CHAP. III.

THe Privateer on board which we went being now clean'd, and our Indian Guides thus ſatis⯑fy'd and ſet aſhore, we ſet ſail in two days for Springer's Key, another of the Samballoes Iſles, and about 7 or 8 leagues from La Sound's Key. Here lay 8 ſail of Privateers more, viz.

• • Capt. Coxon, 10 Guns, 100 Men.
  • Capt. Payne, 10 Guns, 100 Men.
  • Capt. Wright, a Barcolongo 4 Guns, 40 Men.
  • Capt. Williams, a ſmall Barcolongo
  Engliſh Comman⯑ders and Engliſh men
• • Capt. Yanks a Barcolongo 4 Guns, about 60 Men.
  Engliſh, Dutch and French; himſelf a Dutchman
• • Capt. Achemboe, 8 Guns, 40 Men.
  • Capt Tucker, 6 Guns, 70 Men.
  • Capt. Roſe, a Barcolongo.
  French Com⯑manders and Men.

An hour before we came to the Fleet, Captai [...] Wright, who had been ſent to Chagra River, arrive [...] at Springer's Key, with a large Conoa or Pereag [...] laden with Flower, which he took there. Some o [...] the Priſoners belonging to the Pereago, came fro [...] Panama not above 6 days before he took her, an [...] told the news of our coming over land, and like⯑wiſe related the condition and ſtrength of Panama [...] which was the main thing they enquired after; fo [...] Captain Wright was ſent thither purpoſely to get [...] Priſoner that was able to inform them of th [...] ſtrength of that City, becauſe the Privateers de⯑ſigned to joyn all their force, and by the aſſiſtanc [...] [27] of the Indians, (who had promiſed to be their Guides) to march over land to Panama; and there is no other way of getting Priſoners for that purpoſe, but by abſconding between Chagra and Portabell, becauſe there are much Goods brought that way for Pana⯑ma; eſpecially when the Armado lyeth at Portabell. All the Commanders were aboard of Captain Wright when we came into the Fleet; and were mighty inquiſitive of the Priſoners to know the truth of what they related concerning us. But as ſoon as they knew we were come, they immediately came aboard of Captain Triſtian, heing all overjoy'd to ſee us, for Captain Coxon, and many others, had left us in the South Seas about 12 months ſince, and had never heard what became of us ſince that time. They enquired of us what we did there? how we lived? how far we had been? and what diſcoveries we made in thoſe Seas? After we had anſwered theſe general queſtions, they began to be more par⯑ticular; in examining us concerning our paſſage thro the Country from the South Seas. We rela⯑ted the whole matter, giving them an account of the fatigues of our march, and the inconveniencies we ſuffered by the rains, and diſheartned them quite from that deſign.

Then they propoſed ſeveral other places where ſuch a party of men as were now got together might make a Voyage, but the objections of ſome or other ſtill hinder'd any proceeding; for the Privateers have an account of moſt Towns within 20 leagues of the Sea, on all the Coaſt from Trinidado down to La Vera Cruz; and are able to give a near gueſs of the ſtrength and riches of them: For they make it their buſineſs to examin all Priſoners that fall into their hands, concerning the Country, Town, or City that they belong to; whether born there, or how long they have known it? how ma⯑ny families? whether moſt Spaniards? or whether [28] the major part are not Copper-colour'd, as Mulattoe [...] Muſteſoes, or Indians? whether rich, and what the [...] riches do conſiſt in? and what their chiefeſt man [...] ⯑factures? If fortified? how many great Guns, a [...] what number of ſmall Arms? Whether it is poſſib [...] to come undeſcried on them? How many Look-ou [...] or Centinels? for ſuch the Spaniards always keep [...] and how the Look-outs are placed? Whether poſſib [...] to avoid the Look-outs, or take them? If any Riv [...] or Creek comes near it, or where the beſt Landing [...] with innumerable other ſuch queſtions, which the [...] curioſities lead them to demand. And if they ha [...] had any former diſcourſe of ſuch places from oth [...] Priſoners, they compare one with the other; the [...] examin again, and enquire if he or any of the [...] are capable to be Guides to conduct a party of me [...] thither: if not, where and how any Priſoner ma [...] be taken that may do it; and from thence they a [...] ⯑terwards lay their Schemes to proſecute whateve [...] deſign they take in hand.

It was 7 or 8 days after before any reſolution wa [...] taken, yet conſultations were held every day. Th [...] French ſeemed very forward to go to any Town tha [...] the Engliſh could or would propoſe, becauſe the Go⯑vernour of Petit Guavos (from whom the Privateer [...] take Commiſſions) had recommended a Gentlema [...] lately come from France to be General of the Ex⯑pedition, and fent word by Captain Tucker, wit [...] whom this Gentleman came, that they ſhould, i [...] poſſible, make an attempt on ſome Town befor [...] he returned again. The Engliſh, when they wer [...] in company with the French, ſeemed to approve o [...] what the French ſaid, but never looked on that Ge⯑neral to be fit for the ſervice in hand.

At length, it was concluded to go to a Town [...] the name of which I have forgot; it lies a great wa [...] in the Country, but not ſuch a tedious march as i [...] would be from hence to Panama. Our way to i [...] [29] lay up Carpenters River, which is about 60 leagues to the Weſtward of Portabell. Our greateſt obſtructi⯑on in this deſign was our want of Boats: therefore it was concluded to go with all our Fleet to St An⯑dreas, a ſmall uninhabited Iſland lying near the Iſle of Providence, to the Weſtward of it in 13 deg. 15 m. North Lat. and from Portabell N. N. W. about 70 leagues; where we ſhould be but a little way from Carpenter's River. And beſides at this Iſland we might build Canoas, it being plentifully ſtored with large Cedars for ſuch a purpoſe, and for this reaſon the Jamaica-men come hither frequently to build Sloops; Cedar being very fit for building, and it being to be had here at free coſt, beſide other Wood. Jamaica is well ſtored with Cedars of its own, chiefly among the Rocky Mountains: theſe alſo of St Andreas grow in ſtony ground, and are the largeſt that ever I knew or heard of; the Bo⯑dies alone being ordinarily 40 or 50 foot long, ma⯑ny 60 or 70, and upwards, and of a proportionable bigneſs. The Bermudas Iſles are well ſtor'd with them, ſo is Virginia, which is generally a ſandy ſoil. I ſaw none in the Eaſt Indies, nor in the South Sea Coaſt, except on the Iſthmus as I came over it. We reckon the Pereagos and Canoas that are made of Cedar to be the beſt of any; they are nothing but the Tree it ſelf made hollow Boatwiſe, with a flat bottom, and the Canoa generally ſharp at both ends, the Pereago at one only, with the other end flat. But what is commonly ſaid of Cedar, that the Worm will not touch it, is a miſtake, for I have ſeen of it very mucb worm eaten.

All things being thus concluded on, we ſailed from hence, directing our courſe toward St Andreas. We kept company the firſt day, but at night it blew a hard gale at N. E. and ſome of our Ships bore away, the next day others were forced to leave us, and the ſecond night we loſt all our company. I [30] was now belonging to Captain Archembo, for al [...] the reſt of the Fleet were overmann'd: Captain Ar⯑chembo wanting men, we that came out of the South Seas muſt either ſail with him, or remain among the Indians. Indeed we found no cauſe to diſlike the Captain; but his French Seamen were the ſad⯑deſt creatures that ever I was among: for tho w [...] had bad weather that required many hands aloft, ye [...] the biggeſt part of them never ſtirr'd out of thei [...] Hammocks, but to eat and eaſe themſelves. W [...] made a ſhift to find the Iſland the fourth day, wher [...] we met Captain Wright, who came thither the da [...] before; and had taken a Spaniſh Tartan, wherei [...] were 30 men, all well arm'd: She had 4 Pater [...] ⯑roes, and ſome long Guns plac'd in a Swivel on th [...] Gunnel. They fought an hour before they yielde [...] The news they related was, that they came fro [...] Cartagena in company of 11 Armadilloes (which a [...] ſmall Veſſels of War) to ſeek for the Fleet of Priv [...] ⯑teers lying in the Samballoes: that they parted fro [...] the Armadilloes 2 days before: that they were o [...] ⯑der'd to ſearch the Sambaloes for us, and if they di [...] not find us, then they were ordered to go to Port [...] ⯑bel, and lye there till they had farther intelligen [...] of us; and he ſuppoſed thoſe Armadilloes to be n [...] there.

We that came over Land out of the South Seas be⯑ing weary of living among the French, deſired Cap⯑tain Wright to fit up his Prize the Tartan, and mak [...] a Man of War of her for us, which he at firſt ſeem' [...] to decline, becauſe he was ſettled among the Fren [...] in Hiſpaniola, and was very well beloved both b [...] the Governor of Petit-Guavos, and all the Gentry [...] and they would reſent it ill, that Captain Wrigh [...] who had no occaſion of Men, ſhould be ſo unkin [...] to Captain Archembo, as to ſeduce his Men fro [...] him; he being ſo meanly mann'd that he coul [...] hardly ſail his Ship with his Frenchmen. We tol [...] [31] [...]im we would no longer remain with Captain Ar⯑ [...]hembo, but would go aſhore there, and build Ca⯑ [...]oas to tranſport our ſelves down to the Moskitoes, [...]f he would not entertain us; for Privateers are not [...]bliged to any Ship, but free to go aſhore where [...]hey pleaſe, or to go into any other Ship that will [...]ntertain them, only paying for their Proviſion.

When Captain Wright ſaw our reſolutions, he [...]greed with us on condition we ſhould be under his [...]ommand, as one Ships company, to which we [...]nanimouſly conſented.

[33] This Blewfields River comes out between the Ri⯑vers of Nicuragua and Veragua. At its mouth is a fine ſandy Bay; where Barks may clean: It is deep at its mouth, but a ſhoal within; ſo that Ships may not enter, yet Barks of 60 or 70 Tuns may. It had this name from Captain Blewfield, a famous Priva⯑teer living on Providence Iſland long before Jamaica was taken. Which Iſland of Providence was ſettled by the Engliſh, and belonged to the Earls of Warwick.

In this River we found a Canoa coming down the ſtream; and tho we went with our Canoas to ſeek for Inhabitants, yet we found none, but ſaw in 2 or 3 places ſigns that Indians had made on that ſide the River. The Canoa which we found was but meanly made for want of Tools, therefore we concluded theſe Indians have no commerce with the Spaniards, nor with other Indians that have.

While we lay here our Moskito men went in their Canoa, and ſtruck us ſome Manatee, or Sea-cow. Beſides this Blewfields River, I have ſeen of the Manatee in the Bay of Campechy, on the Coaſts of Bocca del Drago, and Bocca del Toro, in the River of Darien, and among the South Keys or little Iſlands of Cuba. I haveheard of there being found on the North of Jamaica, a few, and in the Rivers of Surinam in great multitudes, which is a very low Land. I have ſeen of them alſo at Mindanao one of the Philippine Iſlands, and on the Coaſt of New-Holland. This Creature is about the bigneſs of a Horſe, and 10 or 12 foot long. The mouth of it is much like the mouth of a Cow, having great thick lips. The Eyes are no bigger than a ſmall Pea, the Ears are only 2 ſmall holes on each ſide of the head. The Neck is ſhort and thick, bigger than the Head. The biggeſt part of this Creature is at the Shoul⯑ders, where it hath 2 large Fins one on each ſide of its Belly. Under each of theſe Fins the Female hath a ſmall Dug to ſuckle her young. From the [34] Shoulders towards the Tayl it retains its bigneſs for about a foot, then it groweth ſmaIler and ſmaller to the very Tayl, which is flat, and about 14 inches broad, and 20 inches long, and in the middle 4 or 5 inches thick, but about the edges of it not above 2 inches thick. From the Head to the Tayl it is round and ſmooth without any Fin but thoſe two before mentioned. I have heard that ſome have weighed above 1200 l. but I never ſaw any ſo large. The Manatee delights to live in a brackiſh Water; and they are commonly in Creeks or Rivers near the Sea. 'Tis for this reaſon poſſibly they are not ſeen in the South Seas (that ever I could obſerve) where the Coaſt is generally a bold Shoar, that is, high Land and deep Water cloſe home by it, with a high Sea or great Surges; except in the Bay of Pa⯑nama: yet even there is no Manatee. Whereas the Weſt Indies, being as it were one great Bay compo⯑ſed of many ſmaller, are moſtly low Land and ſhoal Water, and afford proper paſture (as I may ſay) for the Manatee. Sometimes we find them in Salt Wa⯑ter, ſometimes in freſh; but never far at Sea. And thoſe that live in the Sea at ſuch places where there is no River nor Creek fit for them to enter, yet do commonly come once or twice in 24 hours to the mouth of any freſh water River, that is near their place of abode. They live on Graſs 7 or 8 inches long, and of a narrow blade, which grows in the Sea in many places, eſpecially among Iſlands near the Main. This Graſs groweth likewiſe in Creeks, or in great Rivers, near the ſides of them, in ſuch, places where there is but little tyde or current. They never come aſhoar, nor into ſhallower water than where they can ſwim. Their fleſh is white, both the fat and the lean, and extraordinary ſweet wholeſome meat. The tayl of a young Cow is moſt eſteem'd; but if old, both head and tayl are very tough. A Calf that ſucks is the moſt delicate meat: [35] Privateers commonly roaſt them; as they do alſo great pieces cut out of the Bellies of the old ones.

The Skin of the Manatee is of great uſe to Priva⯑teers, for they cut them into ſtraps, which they make faſt on the ſide of their Canoas, thro' which they put their Oars in rowing, inſtead of tholes or pegs. The Skin of the Bull, or of the Back of the Cow is too thick for this uſe; but of it they make Horſe-whips, cutting them 2 or 3 foot long: at the handle they leave the full ſubſtance of the Skin, and from thence cut it away tapering, but very even and ſquare all the four ſides. While the Thongs are green they twiſt them, and hang them to dry: which in a weeks time become as hard as Wood. The Moskito-men have always a ſmall Canoa for their uſe to ſtrike Fiſh, Tortoiſes or Manatee, which they keep uſually to themſelves, and very neat and clean. They uſe no Oars, but Paddles, the broad part of which doth not go tapering towards the ſtaff, pole, or ſhandle of it, as in the Oar; nor do they uſe it in the ſame manner, by laying it on the ſide of the Veſſel; but hold it perpendicularly, griping the ſtaff hard with both hands, and put⯑ting back the water by main ſtrength, and very quick ſtroaks. One of the Moskitoes (for there go but 2 in a Canoa) ſits in the ſtern, the other kneels down in the head, and both paddle till they come to the place where they expect their game. Then they lye ſtill or paddle very ſoftly, looking well about them, and he that is in the head of the Canoa lays down his paddle, and ſtands up with his ſtriking ſtaff in his hand. This ſtaff is about 8 foot long, almoſt as big as a man's Arm, at the great end, in which there is hole to place his Harpoon in. At the other end of his ſtaff there is a piece of light wood called Bobwood, with a hole in it, through which the ſmall end of the ſtaff comes; and on this piece of Bobwood there is a line of 10 or 12 fa⯑thom [36] wound neatly about, and the end of the line made faſt to it. The other end of the line is made faſt to the Harpoon, which is at the great end of the ſtaff, and the Moskito man keeps about a fathom of it looſe in his hand. When he ſtrikes, the Har⯑poon preſently comes out of the ſtaff, and as the Ma⯑natee ſwims away, the line runs off from the bob; and altho at firſt both ſtaff and bob may be carried under water, yet as the line runs off it will riſe a⯑gain. Then the Moskito men paddle with all their might to get hold of the bob again, and ſpend uſu⯑ally a quarter of an hour before they get it. When the Manatee begins to be tired, it lieth ſtill, and then the Moskito men paddle to the bob and take it up, and begin to hale in the line. When the Manatee feels them he ſwims away again with the Canoa after him; then he that ſteers muſt be nim⯑ble to turn the head of the Canoa that way that his conſort points, who being in the head of the Canoa, and holding the line, both ſees and feels which way the Manatee is ſwimming. Thus the Ca⯑noa is towed with a violent motion, till the Ma⯑natee's ſtrength decays. Then they gather in the line, which they are often forced to let all go to the very end. At length when the Creatures ſtrength is ſpent, they hale it up to the Canoas ſide, and knock it on the head, and tow it to the neareſt ſhore where they make it faſt, and ſeek for another; which having taken, they go aſhore with it, to put it into their Canoa: For it is ſo heavy that they cannot lift it in, but they hale it up in ſhoal water as near the ſhore as they can, and then overſet the Canoa, laying one ſide cloſe to the Manatee. Then they roll it in, which brings the Canoa upright a⯑gain; and when they have heav'd out the water, they faſten a line to the other Manatee that lieth a⯑flout, and tow it after them. I have known two Moskito men for a week every day bring aboard two [37] Manatee in this manner; the leaſt of which hath not weighed leſs than 600 pound, and that in a very ſmall Canoa, that 3 Engliſh men would ſcarce ad⯑venture to go in. When they ſtrike a Cow that hath a young one, they ſeldom miſs the Calf, for ſhe commonly takes her young one under one of her Fins. But if the Calf is ſo big that ſhe cannot carry it, or ſhe ſo frighted that ſhe only minds to ſave her own life, yet the young never leaves her till the Moskito men have an opportunity to ſtrike her.

They make their lines both for Fiſhing and Stri⯑king with the bark of Maho; which is a ſort of Tree or Shrub that grows plentifully all over the Weſt-Indies, and whoſe Bark is made up of ſtrings, or threads very ſtrong. You may draw it off either in flakes or ſmall threads, as you have occaſion. 'Tis fit for any manner of Cordage; and Privateers often make [38] their Rigging of it. So much by way of digreſſion.

When we had cleaned our Tartane we ſail'd from hence bound for Bocca-toro, which is an opening between 2 Iſlands about 10 Deg. 10 Min. North Lat. between the Rivers of Veragne and Chagre. Here we met with Captain Yanky, who told us that there had been a Fleet of Spaniſh Armadilloes to ſeek us: that Captain Triſtian having fallen Leeward, was coming to Bocca-toro, and fell in amongſt them, ſuppoſing them to be our Fleet: that they fired and chaſed him, but he rowed and towed, and they ſup⯑poſed he got away: that Capt. Pain was likewiſe chaced by them, and Capt. Williams; and that they had not ſeen them ſince they lay within the Iſlands: that the Spaniards never came in to him; and that Captain Coxon was in at the careening place.

This Bocca-toro is a place that the Privateers uſe to reſort to, as much as any place on all the Coaſt, be⯑cauſe here is plenty of green Tortoiſe, and a good careening place. The Indians here have no com⯑merce with the Spaniards, but are very barbarous and will not be dealt with. They have deſtroyed many Privateers, as they did not long after this ſome of Captain Pain's men; who having built a Tent aſhore to put his goods in while he careened his Ship, and ſome men lying there with their Arms, in the night the Indians crept ſoftly into the Tent, and cut off the heads of 3 or 4 men, and made their eſcape; nor was this the firſt time they had ſerved the Privateers ſo. There grow on this Coaſt Vinelloes in great quantity, with which Chocolate is perfumed. Theſe I ſhall deſcribe elſewhere.

Our Fleet being thus ſcattered, there was now no hopes of getting together again; therefore every one did what they thought moſt conducing to ob⯑tain their ends. Capt. Wright, with whom I now was, was reſolved to cruiſe on the Coaſt of Carta⯑gene; and it being now almoſt the Weſterly wind [39] ſeaſon, we ſailed from hence, and Captain Yanky with us; and we conſorted, becauſe Captain Yanky had no Commiſſion, and was afraid the French would take away his Bark. We paſt by Scuda, a ſmall Iſland (where tis ſaid Sir Francis Drake's bowels were bury'd) and came to a ſmall River to the Weſtward of Chagre; where we took two new Canoas, and car⯑ry'd them with us into the Sambaloes. We had the Wind at Weſt, with much rain; which brought us to Point Samballas. Here Captain Wright and Cap⯑tain Yanky left us in the Tartane to fix the Conoas, while they went on the Coaſt of Cartagene to ſeek for proviſion. We cruiſed in among the Iſlands, and kept our Moskito-men, or ſtrikers out, who brought aboard ſome half-grown Tortoiſe; and ſome of us went aſhoar every day to hunt for what we could find in the Woods: Sometimes we got Pecary, Warree, or Deer; at other times we light on a drove of large fat Monkeys, or Quames, Corroſoes, (each a large ſort of Fowl) Pidgeons, Parrots, or Tuttle⯑doves. We liv'd very well on what we got, not ſtaying long in one place; but ſometimes we would go on the Iſlands, where there grow great Groves of Sapadillies, which is a ſort of Fruit much like a Pear, but more juicy; and under thoſe Trees we found plenty of Soldiers, that live in Shells, a little kind of Animals, and have two great Claws like a Crab, and are good food. One time our men ſound a great many large ones, and being ſharp ſet had them dreſt, but moſt of them were very ſick afterwards, being poyſoned by them: For on this Iſland were many Manchaneel Trees, whoſe Fruit is like a ſmall Crab, and ſmells very well, but they are not wholeſome; and we commonly take care of meddling with any Animals that eat them. And this we take for a general rule; when we find any Fruits that we have not ſeen before, if we ſee them peck'd by Birds, we may freely eat, but if we ſee [40] no ſuch ſign, we let them alone; for of this Fruit no Birds will taſte. Many of theſe Iſlands have of theſe Manchaneel-Trees growing on them.

Thus cruiſing in among theſe Iſlands, at length we came again to La Sound's Key; and the day be⯑fore having met with a Jamaica Sloop that was come over on the Coaſt to trade, ſhe went with us. It was in the evening when we came to an Anchor, and the next morning we fir'd 2 Guns for the Indi⯑ans that lived on the Main for to come aboard; for by this time we concluded we ſhould hear from our 5 men, that we left in the heart of the Country a⯑mong the Indians, this being about the latter end of Auguſt, and it was in the beginning of May when we parted from them. According to our expectati⯑on the Indians came aboard, and brought our friends with them: Mr Wafer wore a Clout about him, and was painted like an Indian; and he was ſome time aboard before I knew him. One of them, named Riehard Cobſon, dyed within 3 or 4 days af⯑ter, and was buried on La Sound's Key.

After this we went to other Keys, to the Eaſt⯑ward of theſe to meet Captain Wright and Captain Yanky, who met with a Fleet of Pereagos laden with Indian Corn, Hog and Fowls, going to Carta⯑gene; being conveyed with a ſmall Armadilly of 2 Guns and 6 Patereroes. Her they ch [...]ſed aſhoar, and moſt of the Pereagoes; but they got 2 of them off, and brought them away.

Here Captain Wright's and Captain Yanky's Barks were clean'd; and we ſtock'd our ſelves with Corn and then went towards the Coaſt of Cartagene. In our way thither we paſſed by the River of Darien; which is very broad at the mouth but not above 6 foot water on a Spring tyde; for the Tyde riſeth but little here. Captain Coxen, about 6 months be⯑fore we came out of the South Sea, went up this Ri⯑ver with a party of men: Every man carry'd a ſmall [41] [...] [40] [...] [41] ſtrong Bag to put his Gold in; expecting great Riches there, tho they got little or none. They rowed up about 100 leagues before they came to any ſettle⯑ment, and then found ſome Spaniards, who lived there [...]o truck with the Indians for Gold; there being Gold Scales in every houſe. The Spaniards admire how they came ſo far from the mouth of the River, be⯑cauſe there are a ſort of Indians living between that place and the Sea, who are very dreadful to the Spa⯑niards, and will not have any commerce with them, nor with any white people. They uſe Trunks about [...] foot long, out of which they blow poyſoned Darts; and are ſo ſilent in their attacks on their Enemies, and retreat ſo nimbly again, that the Spa⯑niards can never find them. Their Darts are made of Macaw-wood, being about the bigneſs and length of a Knitting-needle: one end is wound about with Cotton, the other end is extraordinary ſharp and ſmall; and is jagged with notches like a Harpoon: ſo that whatever it ſtrikes into it immediately [...]reaks off by the weight of the biggeſt end; which [...]t is not of ſtrength to bear, (it being made ſo ſlen⯑ [...]er for that purpoſe) and it is very difficult to be got [...]ut again, by reaſon of thoſe notches. Theſe Indi⯑ [...]ns have always War with our Darien friendly Indi⯑ [...]ns, and lived on both ſides this great River 50 or 60 [...]egues from the Sea, but not near the mouth of [...]he River. There are abundance of Manatee in this [...]iver, and ſome Creeks belonging to it. This re⯑ [...]tion I had from ſeveral men who accompany'd Captain Coxon in that diſcovery; and from Mr Cook [...] particular, who was with them, and is a very [...]ntelligent perſon; He is now chief Mate of a Ship [...]ound to Guinea. To return therefore to the proſe⯑ [...]ution of our Voyage; meeting with nothing of [...]ote we paſſed by Cartagene, which is a City ſo [...]ell known, that I ſhall ſay nothing of it. We [...]iled by in ſight of it, for it lies open to the Sea; [42] and had a fair view of Madre de Popa, or Nueſtra a Sen⯑nora de Popa, a Monaſtery of the Virgin Mary's, ſtanding on the top of a very ſteep hill juſt behind Cartagene. It is a place of incredible wealth, by reaſon of the offerings made here continually; and for this reaſon often in danger of being viſited by the Privateers, did not the neighbourhood of Cartagene keep them in awe. 'Tis, in ſhort, the very Loretto of the Weſt Indies: it hath innumerable Miracles re⯑lated of it. Any misfortune that befals the Priva⯑teers is attributed to this Lady's doing, and the Spaniards report that ſhe was abroad that night the Oxford Man of War was blown up at the Iſle of Vacca near Hiſpaniola, and that ſhe came home all wet; as belike, ſhe often returns with her Cloaths dirty and torn with paſſing thro the Woods, and bad ways, when ſhe has been out upon any expedition; deſerving doubtleſs a new ſuit for ſuch eminent pieces of ſervice.

From hence we paſſed on to the Rio Grande, where we took up freſh Water at Sea, a league off the mouth of that River. From thence we ſailed Eaſt⯑ward, paſſing by St Martha, a large Town, and good Harbour belonging to the Spaniards: yet hath it within theſe few years been twice taken by the Privateers. It ſtands cloſe upon the Sea, and the Hill within Land is a very large one, towering up a great heighth from a vaſt body of Land. I am of opinion that it is higher than the Pike of Tenariff; others alſo that have ſeen both think the ſame; tho its bigneſs makes its heighth leſs ſenſible. I have ſeen it in paſſing by, 30 leagues off at Sea; others as they told me, above 60: and ſeveral have told me, that they have ſeen at once, Jamaica, Hiſpaniola and the high Land of Santa Martha; and yet the neareſt of theſe two places is diſtant from it 120 leagues; and Jamaica, which is fartheſt off, is accounted near 150 leagues; and I queſtion whether any Land or either of thoſe 2 Iſlands may be ſeen 50 leagues [...] [43] [...]ts head is generally hid in the Clouds; but in clear weather, when the top appears, it looks white; ſuppoſed to be covered with Snow. St Martha [...]ieth in the Lat. of 12 Deg. North.

Being advanced 5 or 6 leagues to the Eaſtward of Santa Martha, we left our Ships at Anchor, and re⯑ [...]urn'd back in our Canoa's to the River Grande; en⯑ [...]ring it by a mouth of it that diſembogues it ſelf near Santa Martha: purpoſing to attempt ſome Towns that lye a pretty way up that River. But this deſign meeting with diſcouragements, we re⯑ [...]urned to our Ships, and ſet ſail to Rio la Hacha. This hath been a ſtrong Spaniſh Town, and is well built; but being often taken by the Privateers, the Spaniards deſerted it ſome time before our arrival. It lieth to the Weſtward of a River; and right a⯑gainſt the Town is a good Road for Ships, the bot⯑tom clean and ſandy. The Jamaica Sloops uſed of⯑ten to come over to trade here: and I am informed that the Spaniards have again ſettled themſelves in it, and made it very ſtrong. We entered the Fort and brought 2 ſmall Guns aboard. From thence we went to the Rancheries, one or 2 ſmall Indian Villages, where the Spaniards kept 2 Barks to fiſh for Pearl. The Pearl-banks lye about 4 or 5 leagues off from the ſhoar, as I have been told; thither the Fiſhing Barks go and Anchor; then the Divers go down to the bottom, and fill a Basket (which is let down before) with Oyſters; and when they come up, others go down, 2 at a time; this they do till the Bark is full, and then go aſhoar, where the Old men, Women and Children of the Indians, open the Oyſters, there being a Spaniſh Over⯑ſeer to look after the Pearl. Yet theſe Indians do very often ſecure the beſt Pearl for themſelves, as many Ja⯑maica men can teſtifie, who daily trade with them. The meat they ſtring up, and hang it a drying. At this place we went aſhoar, where we found one of the [44] Barks, and ſaw great heaps of Oyſter-ſhells, but the people all fled: Yet in another place, between this and Rio la Hacha, we took ſome of the Indians; who ſeem to be a ſtubborn ſort of people: They are long-viſaged, black hair, their noſes ſomewhat ri⯑ſing in the middle, and of a ſtern look. The Spani⯑ards report them to be a very numerous Nation; and that they will not ſubject themſelves to their yoak: Yet they have Spaniſh Prieſts among them; and by trading have brought them to be ſomewhat ſociable; but cannot keep a ſevere hand over them. The Land is but barren, it being of a light ſand near the Sea; and moſt Savanah, or Champion; and the graſs but thin and courſe, yet they feed plenty of Cattel. Every man knoweth his own, and looketh after them: but the Land is in common except only their Houſes or ſmall Plantations where they live, which every man maintains with ſome fence about it. They may remove from one place to another as they pleaſe, no man having right to any Land but what he poſſeſſeth. This part of the Country is not ſo ſubject to Rain, as to the Weſt⯑ward of Santa Martha; yet here are Tornadoes or Thunder-ſhowers; but neither ſo violent as on the Coaſt of Portabell, nor ſo frequent. The Weſterly Winds in the Weſterly Wind ſeaſon blow here, tho not ſo ſtrong nor laſting as on the Coaſts of Carta⯑gene and Portabell.

When we had ſpent ſome time here, we return'd again towards the Coaſt of Cartagene; and being be⯑tween Rio Grande and that place, we met with Weſterly Winds, which kept us ſtill to the Eaſtward of Cartagene 3 or 4 days; and then in the morning we deſcryed a Sail off at Sea, and we chaced her at noon: Captain Wright who ſail'd beſt, came up with her, and engaged her; and in half an hour after, Captain Yankey, who ſailed better than the Tartan (the Veſſel that I was in) came up with he [...] [45] likewiſe, and laid her aboard, then Captain Wright alſo; and they took her before we came up. They loſt 2 or 3 men, and had 7 or 8 wounded. The Prize was a Ship of 12 Guns and 40 men, who had all good ſmall Arms: She was laden with Sugar and Tobacco, and had 8 or 10 Tuns of Marmalet on board: She came from Saint Jago on Cuba, and was bound to Cartagene.

We went back with her to Rio Grande, to fix our Rigging, which was ſhattered in the Fight, and to conſider what to do with her; for theſe were com⯑modities of little uſe to us, and not worth going into a Port with. At the Rio Grande Capt. Wright demanded the Prize as his due by vertue of his Com⯑miſſion: Captain Yanky ſaid it was his due by the Law of Privateers. Indeed Captain Wright had the moſt right to her, having by his Commiſſion pro⯑tected Captain Yanky from the French, who would have turned him out becauſe he had no Commiſſi⯑on; and he likewiſe began to engage her firſt. But the company were all affraid that Captain Wright would preſently carry her into a Port; therefore moſt of Captain Wright's men ſtuck to Captain Yanky, [...]nd Captain Wright loſing his Prize burned his own [...]ark, and had Captain Yanky's, it being bigger than [...]is own; the Tartan was ſold to a Jamaica Trader, [...]nd Captain Yanky commanded the Prize Ship. We [...]ent again from hence to Rio la Hach, and ſet the [...]riſoners aſhoar, and it being now the beginning of [...]ov. we concluded to go to Queriſao to ſell [...]our [...]ugar, if favoured by weſterly winds, which were [...]ow come in. We ſailed from thence, having fair [...]eather and winds to our mind, which brought us [...] Queriſao, a Dutch Iſland. Captain Wright went a⯑ [...]ar to the Governor, and offered him the Sale of [...]e Sugar: but the Governor told him, he had a [...]eat Trade with the Spaniards, therefore he could [...]t admit us in there; but if we would go to St Tho⯑mas, [46] which is an Iſland, and Free Port, belonging to the Danes, and a Sanctuary for Privateers, he would ſend a Sloop with ſuch Goods as we wanted, and Money to buy the Sugar, which he would take at a certain rate; but it was not agreed to.

Queriſao is the only Iſland of importance that the Dutch have in the Weſt Indies. It is about 5 leagues in length, and may be 9 or 10 in circumference: the Northermoſt point is laid down in North lat. 12 d. 40 m. and it is about 7 or 8 leagues from the Main, near Cape Roman. On the South ſide of the Eaſt end is a good Harbour called Santa Barbara; but the chiefeſt harbour is about 3 leagues from the S. E. end, on the South ſide of it; where the Dutch have a very good Town, and a very ſtrong Fort. Ships bound in thither muſt be ſure to keep cloſe to the Harbours mouth, and have a Haſar or Rope ready to ſend one end aſhoar to the Fort: for there is no Anchoring at the entrance of the Harbour, and the Current always ſets to the Weſtward. But being got in, it is a very ſecure Port for Ships, either to Careen, or lye ſafe. At the Eaſt end are two hills, one of them is much higher than the other, and ſteepeſt toward the North ſide. The reſt of the Iſland is indifferent level; where of late ſome rich Men have made Sugar Works; which formerly was all pa⯑ſture for Cattel: there are alſo ſome ſmall Planta⯑tions of Potatoes and Yames, and they have ſtill a great many Cattel on the Iſland; but it is not ſo much eſteemed for its produce, as for its ſituation for the Trade with the Spaniard. Formerly the Har⯑bour was never without Ships from Cart [...]egne and Portobell, that did uſe to buy of the Dutch here 1000 or 1500 Negroes at once, beſides great quantities of European Commodities; but of late that Trade is fallen into the hands of the Engliſh at Jamaica: yet ſtill the Dutch have a vaſt Trade over all the Weſt Indies, ſending from Holland Ships of good force laden [47] with European goods, whereby they make very pro⯑fitable returns. The Dutch have 2 other Iſlands here, but of little moment in compariſon of Queri⯑ſao; the one lieth 7 or 8 leagues to the Weſtward of Queriſao, called Aruba; the other 9 or 10 leagues to the Eaſtward of it, called Bon Airy. From theſe Iſlands the Dutch fetch in Sloops Proviſion for Queri⯑ſao, to maintain their Garriſon and Negroes. I was never at Aruba, therefore cannot ſay any thing of it as to my own knowledge; but by report it is much like Bon Airy, which I ſhall deſcribe, only not ſo big. Between Queriſao and Bon Airy is a ſmall Iſland called Little Queriſao, it is not above a league from Great Queriſao. The King of France has long had an eye on Queriſao, and made ſome attempts to take it, but never yet ſucceeded. I have heard that about 23 or 24 years ſince the Governor had ſold it to the French, but dyed a ſmall time before the Fleet came to demand it; and by his death that deſign failed. Afterwards, in the year 1678, the Count D' Eſtree, who a year before had taken the Iſle of Tobago from the Dutch, was ſent thither alſo with a Squadron of ſtout Ships very well mann'd, and fitted with Bombs and Carcaſſes; intending to take it by ſtorm. This Fleet came firſt to Martinico; where while they ſtay'd, orders were ſent to Petit Guavers, for all Pri⯑vateers to repair thither, and aſſiſt the Count in his deſign. There were but 2 Privateers Ships that went thither with him, which were mann'd partly with French, partly with Engliſh men. Theſe ſet [...]ut with the Count; but in their way to Queriſao [...]he whole Fleet was loſt on a Riff or Ridge of [...]ocks, that runs off from the Iſle of Aves; not a⯑ [...]ove 2 Ships eſcaping, 1 of which was 1 of the Pri⯑ [...]teers; and ſo that deſign periſhed.

Wherefore not driving a Bargain for our Sugar [...]ith the Governor of Queriſao, we went from thence [...] Bon Airy, another Dutch Iſland, where we met a [] Dutch Sloop come from Europe, laden with Iriſh B [...], which we bought in exchange for ſome of our S [...].

Bon [...] is the Eaſtermoſt of the Dutch Iſlands, and is the largeſt of the 3, tho not the moſt confi⯑derable. The middle of the Iſland is laid down in Lat. 12 d. 16 m. It is about 20 leagues from the Main, and 9 or 10 from Queriſao, and is accounted 16 or 17 leagues round. The Road is on the S. W. ſide, near the middle of the Iſland; where there is a pretty deep Bay runs in. Ships that come from the Eaſtward luff up cloſe to the Eaſtern ſhoar; and let go their Anchor in 60 fathom water, within half a Cables length of the ſhoar. But at the ſame time they muſt be ready with a Boat to carry a Haſar or Rope, and make it faſt aſhoar; otherwiſe, when the Land-wind comes in the night, the Ship would drive off to Sea again; for the ground is ſo ſteep, that no Anchor can hold if once it ſtarts. About half a mile to the Weſtward of this Anchoring place there is a ſmall low land, and a Channel between it and the main Iſland.

The Houſes are about half a mile within Land, right againſt the Road: there is a Governor lives here, a Deputy to the Governor of Queriſao, and 7 or 8 Soldiers, with 5 or 6 Families of Indians. There is no Fort; and the Soldiers in peaceable times have little to do but to eat and ſleep, for they never watch, but in time of War. The Indians are Hus⯑bandmen, and plant Maiz and Guinea Corn, and ſome Yams, and Potatoes: But their chiefeſt buſi⯑neſs is about Cattel; for this Iſland is plentifully ſtocked with Goats, and they ſend great quantities every year in Salt to Queriſao. There are ſome Horſes, and Bulls and Cows; but I never ſaw any Sheep, tho I have been all over the Iſland. The South ſide is plain low Land, and there are ſeveral ſorts of Trees, but none very large. There is a ſmall [49] Spring of Water by the Houſes, which ſerves the Inhabitants, tho it is blackiſh. At the Weſt end of the Iſland there is a good Spring of freſh Water, and 3 and 4 Indian Families live there, but no Water nor Houſes at any other place. On the South ſide, near the Eaſt end, is a good Salt-pond, where Dutch Sloops come for Salt.

From Bon-Airy we went to the Iſle of Aves, or Birds; ſo called from its great plenty of Birds, as Men-of-War and Boobies; but eſpecially Boobies. The Booby is a Water-fowl, ſomewhat leſs than a Hen, of a light greyiſh colour. I obſerved the Boobies of this Iſland to be whiter than others. This Bird hath a ſtrong Bill, longer and bigger than a Crows, and broader at the end; her Feet are flat like a Ducks feet. It is a very ſimple Creature, and will hardly go out of a Man's way. In other places they build their Neſts on the Ground, but here they build on Trees, which I never ſaw any where elſe; tho' I have ſeen of them in a great many places. Their Fleſh is black and eats Fiſhy, but are often eaten by the Privateers. Their numbers have been much leſ⯑ſened by the French Fleet, which was loſt here, as I ſhall give an account.

The Man-of-War (as it is called by the Engliſh) is about the bigneſs of a Kite, and in ſhape like it, but black; and the Neck is red. It lives on Fiſh, yet never lights on the Water, but ſoars aloſt like a Kite, and when it ſees its prey, it flys down head fore⯑moſt to the Waters edge, very ſwiftly takes its prey out of the Sea with his Bill, and immediately mounts again as ſwiftly; and never touching the Water with his Bill. His Wings are very long; his Feet are like other Land-fowl; and he builds on Trees, where he finds any; but where they are want⯑ing, on the Ground.

This Iſland Aves lies about 8 or 9 leagues to the Eaſtward of the Iſland Bon-Airy, about 14 or 15 leagues [50] year 1682 from the Main, and about the lat. of 11 d. 45 m. North. It is but ſmall, not above 4 mile in length, and towards the Eaſt end not half a mile broad. On the North ſide it is low Land, commonly overflown with the Tide; but one the South ſide there is a great Rocky Bank of Coral thrown up by the Sea. The Weſt end is, for near a mile ſpace, plain even Savan⯑nah Land, without any Trees. There are 2 or 3 Wells dug by Privateers, who often frequent this Iſland, becauſe there is a good Harbour about the middle of it on the North ſide, where they may conveniently careen. The Riff, or Bank of Rocks, on which the French Fleet was loſt, as I mentioned above, runs along from the Eaſt end to the Northward about 3 mile, then trends away to the Weſtward, making as it were, a Half-Moon. This Riff breaks off all the Sea, and there is good Riding in even ſandy ground to the Weſtward of it. There are 2 or 3 ſmall low ſandy-Keys, or Iſland, within this Riff, about 3 miles from the Main Iſland. The Count d'Eſtree loſt his Fleet here in this manner. Coming from the Eaſtward, he fell in on the back of the Riff, and fired Guns to give warning to the reſt of his Fleet: But they ſuppoſing their Admiral was engaged with Enemies, hoiſted up their Topſails, and croud⯑ed all the Sail they could make, and ran full ſail aſhoar after him; all within half a mile of each other. For his Light being in the Main-Top was an unhappy Beacon for them to follow; and there eſcaped but one Kings-Ship and one Privateer. The Ships continued whole all day, and the Men had time enough, moſt of them, to get aſhoar, yet ma⯑ny periſhed in the Wreck: and many of thoſe that got ſafe on the Iſl [...]nd, for want of being accuſtomed to ſuch hardſhips, died like rotten Sheep. But the Privateers who had been uſed to ſuch accidents liv'd merrily, from whom I had this relation: and they told me, that if they had gone to Jamaica with 3cl. [51] a Man in their Pockets, they could not have en⯑joyed themſelves more: For they kept in a Gang by themſelves, and watched when the Ships broke, to get the Goods that come from them; and though much was ſtaved againſt the Rocks, yet abundance of Wine and Brandy floated over the Riff, where theſe Privateers waited to take it up. They lived here about 3 weeks, waiting an opportunity to tran⯑ſport themſelves back again into Hiſpaniola; in all which time, they were never without 2 or 3 Hogſ⯑heads of Wine and Brandy in their Tents, and Bar⯑rels of Beef and Pork; which they could live on without Bread well enough, tho the new-comers out of France could not. There were about forty Frenchmen on board in one of the Ships where there was good ſtore of Liquor, till the after part of her broke away, and floated over the Riff, and was carry'd away to Sea, with all the Men drinking and ſinging, who being in drink, did not mind the danger, but were never heard of afterwards.

In a ſhort time after this great Shipwrack, Cap⯑tain Pain, Commander of a Privateer of 6 Guns, had a pleaſant accident befel him at this Iſland. He came hither to careen, intending to fit himſelf very well; for here lay driven on the Iſland, Maſt, Yards, Timbers, and many things that he wanted, therefore he haled into the Harbour, cloſe to the Iſland, and unrigg'd his Ship. Before he had done, a Dutch Ship of 20 Guns, was ſent from Queriſao to take up the Guns that were loſt on the Riff: But ſeeing a Ship in the Harbour, and knowing her to be a French Privateer, they thought to take her firſt, and came within a mile of her, and began to fire at her, intending to warp in the next day, for it is very narrow going-in. Capt. Pain got aſhoar ſome of his Guns, and did what he could to reſiſt them; tho' he did in a manner conclude he muſt be taken. But while his Men were thus buſied, he ſpy'd a [52] Dutch Sloop turning to get into the Road, and ſaw her at the evening Anchor at the Weſt end of the Iſland. This gave him ſome hope of making his eſcape; which he did, by ſending two Canoas in the night aboard the Sloop, who took her, and got confiderable purchaſe in her; and he went away in her, making a good Reprizal, and leaving his own empty Ship to the Dutch Man of War.

There is another Iſland to the Eaſtward of the Iſle of Aves about 4 leagues, called by Privateers the little Iſle of Aves, which is over-grown with Mangrove Trees. I have ſeen it, but was never on it. There are no Inhabitants, that I could learn, on either of theſe Iſlands, but Boobies and a few other Birds.

While we were at the Iſle of Aves, we careen'd Capt. Wright's Bark, and ſcrubb'd the Sugar-prize, and got 2 Guns out of the Wrecks; continuing here till the beginning of Feb. 1681/2.

We went from hence to the Iſles Roca's, to careen the Sugar-prize, which the Iſle of Aves was not a place ſo convenient for. Accordingly we haled cloſe to one of the ſmall Iſlands, and got our Guns aſhoar the firſt thing we did, and built a Breaſt-work on the Point, and planted all our Guns there, to hin⯑der an Enemy from coming to us while we lay on the Careen: Then we made a Houſe, and cover'd ir with our Sails, to put our Goods and Proviſions in. While we lay here, a French Man of War of 36 Guns, came thro' the Keys; or little Iſlands; to whom we ſold about 10 Tun of Sugar. I was a⯑board twice or thrice, and very kindly welcomed both by the Capt. and his Lieutenant, who was a Cavalier of Malta; and they both offered me great Encouragement in France, if I would go with them; but I ever deſigned to continue with thoſe of my own Nation.

The Iſlands Roca's are a parcel of ſmall uninhabit⯑ed Iſlands, lying about the lat. of 11 deg. 40 min. [53] about 15 or 16 leagues from the Main, and about 20 leagues N. W. by W. from Tortuga, and 6 or 7 leagues to the Weſtward of Orchilla, another Iſland lying about the ſame diſtance from the Main; which Iſland I have ſeen, but was never at it. Roca's ſtretch themſelves Eaſt and Weſt about 5 leagues, and their breadth about 3 leagues. The Norther⯑moſt of theſe Iſlands is the moſt remarkable by rea⯑ſon of a high white rocky Hill at the weſt end of it, which may be ſeen a great way; and on it there are abundance of Tropick Birds, Men-of-War, Boo⯑by and Noddys, which breed there. The Booby and Man-of-War, I have deſcribed already. The Noddy is a ſmall black Bird, about the bigneſs of the En⯑gliſh Black-bird, and indifferent good Meat. They build in Rocks. We never find them far off from ſhoar. I have ſeen of them in other places, but never ſaw any of their Neſts, but in this Iſland, where there is great plenty of them. The Tropick Bird is as big as a Pidgeon, but round and plump like a Partridge. They are all white, except two or three Feathers in each Wing of a light grey. Their Bills are of a yellowiſh colour, thick and ſhort. They have one long Feather, or rather a Quill, about 7 inches long, grows at the Rump, which is all the Tail they have. They are never ſeen far without either Tro⯑pick, for which reaſon they are called Tropick Birds. They are very good food, and we meet with them a great way at Sea, and I never ſaw of them any where but at Sea, and in this Iſland, where they build, and are found in great plenty.

By the Sea, on the South ſide of that high Hill, there's freſh Water comes out of the Rocks, but ſo ſlowly, that it yields not above 40 Gallons in 24 hours, and it taſtes ſo copperiſh, or aluminous ra⯑ther, and rough in the Mouth, that it ſeems very unpleaſant at firſt drinking: But after 2 or 3 days any Water will ſeem to have no taſte.

[54] The middle of this Iſland low plain Land, over grown with long Graſs, where there are multitudes of ſmall grey Fowls no bigger than a Black Bird, yet lay Eggs bigger than a Magpy's; and they are therefore by Privateers called Egg Birds. The Eaſt end of the Iſland is overgrown with black Mangrove Trees.

There are 3 ſorts of Mangrove Trees, black, red and white. The black Mangrove is the largeſt Tree; the body about as big as an Oak, and about 20 foot high. It is very hard and ſerviceable Timber, but extraordinary heavy, therefore not much made uſe of for Building. The red Mangrove groweth commonly by the Sea ſide, or by Rivers or Creeks. The Body is not ſo big as that of the black Man⯑grove, but always grows out of many Roots about the bigneſs of a Mans Leg, ſome bigger, ſome leſs, which is about 6, 8, or 10 foot above the Ground, joyn into one trunk or body, that ſeems to be ſup⯑ported by ſo many Artificial Stakes. Where this ſort of Tree grows, it is impoſſible to march, by reaſon of theſe Stakes, which grow ſo mixt one amongſt another, that I have, when forced to go thro' them gone half a mile, and never ſet my foot on the Ground, ſtepping from Root to Root. The Timber is hard and good for many uſes. The inſide of the Bark is red, and it is uſed for tanning of Lea⯑ther very much all over the Weſt Indies. The white Mangrove never groweth ſo big as the other two ſorts, neither is it of any great uſe: Of the young Trees Privateers uſe to make Loom, or Handles for their Oars, for it is commonly ſtraight, but not very ſtrong, which is the fault of them. Neither the black nor white Mangrove grow towering up from ſtilts or riſing root, as the red doth; but the Body immediately out of the Ground, like other Trees.

[55] The Land of this Eaſt end is light ſand, which is ſometimes over-flown with the Sea at Spring-tides. The Road for Ships is on the South ſide, againſt the middle of the Iſland. The reſt of the Iſlands of Roca's are low. The next to this on the South ſide is but ſmall, flat, and even, without Trees, bearing only Graſs. On the South ſide of it is a Pond of brackiſh water, which ſometimes Privateers uſe in⯑ſtead of better; there is likewiſe good Riding by it About a league from this are two other Iſlands, not 200 yards diſtant from each other; yet a deep Channel for Ships to paſs through. They are both overgrown with red Mangrove Trees; which Trees, above any of the Mangroves, do flouriſh beſt in wet drowned Land, ſuch as theſe two Iſlands are; only the Eaſt point of the Weſtermoſt Iſland is dry ſand, without Tree or Buſh. On thispoint we careened, lying on the South ſide of it.

The other Iſlands are low, and have red Man⯑groves, and other Trees on them. Here alſo Ships may ride, but no ſuch place for careening as where we lay, becauſe at that place Ships may hale cloſe to the ſhoar; and if they had but four Guns on the point, may ſecure the Channel, and hinder any Enemy from coming near them. I obſerve, that within a⯑mong the Iſlands, was good riding in many places, but not without the Iſlands, except to the Weſt⯑ward, or South Weſt of them. For on the Eaſt, or N. E. of theſe Iſlands, the common Trade Wind blows, and makes a great Sea: and to the South⯑ward of them, there is no ground under 70, 80, or 100 fathom, cloſe by the Land.

After we had filled what water we could from hence, we ſet out again in April 1682. and came to Salt-Tortuga, ſo called to diſtinguiſh it from the ſhoals of Dry Tortugas, near Capt Florida, and from the Iſle of Tortugas by Hiſpamola, which was called formerly French Tortugas; though not having heard [56] any mention of that name a great while, I am apt to think it is ſwallowed up in that of Petit-Guavres, the chief Garriſon the French have in thoſe parts. This Iſland we arrived at is pretty large, uninhabit⯑ed, and abounds with Salt. It is in lat. 11 d. North, and lyeth Weſt and a little Northerly from Marga⯑rita, an Iſland inhabited by the Spaniards, ſtrong, and wealthy; it is diſtant from it about 14 leagues, and 17 or 18 from Cape Blanco on the Main: A Ship being within theſe Iſlands, a little to the South ward, may ſee at once the Main, Margarita, and Tortuga, when it is clear weather. The Eaſt end of Tortuga is full of rugged, bare, broken Rocks, which ſtretch themſelves a little way out to Sea. At the S. E. part is of an indifferent good Road for Ships, much frequented in peaceable times by Merchant⯑ſhips, that come thither to lade Salt, in the months of May, June, July and Auguſt. For at the Eaſt end is a large Salt-pond, within 200 paces of the Sea. The Salt begins to kern or grain in April, except it is a dry ſeaſon; for it is obſerved that Rain makes the Salt kern. I have ſeen above 20 Sail at a time in this Road come to lade Salt; and theſe Ships coming from ſome of the Caribbe Iſlands, are always well ſtored with Rum, Sugar and Lime-juice to make Punch, to hearten their Men when they are at work, getting and bringing aboard the Salt; and they commonly provide the more, in hopes to meet with Privateers, who reſort hither in the afore⯑ſaid Months, purpoſely to keep a Chriſtmas, as they call it; being ſure to meet with Liquor enough to be merry with, and are very Liberal to thoſe that treat them. Near the Weſt end of the Iſland, on the South ſide, there is a ſmall Harbour and ſome freſh Water: That end of the Iſland is full of ſhrub⯑by Trees, but the Eaſt end is rocky and barren as to Trees, producing only courſe Graſs. There are [...]me Goats on it, but not many, and Turtle or [57] Tortoiſe come upon the ſandy Bays to lay their Eggs, and from them the Iſland hath its name. There is no riding any where but in the Roads where the Salt-ponds are, or in the Harbour.

At this Iſle we thought to have ſold our Sugar a⯑mong the Engliſh Ships that come hither for Salt; but failing there, we deſign'd for Trinidada, an Iſland near the main, inhabited by the Spaniards, tolerably ſtrong and wealthy: but the Current and Eaſterly winds hindring us, we paſſed through between Margarita and the main, and went to Blanco, a pret⯑ty large Iſland almoſt North of Margarita; about 30 leagues from the main, and in 11 d. 50 m. North Lat. It is a flat, even, low, uninhabited Iſland, dry and healthy: moſt Savannah of long Graſs, and hath ſome Trees of Lignum Vitae growing in Spots, with ſhrubby buſhes of other Wood about them. It is plentifully ſtored with Guano's which are an Animal like a Lizard, but much bigger. The body is as big as the ſmall of a mans Leg, and from the hind quarter the Tail grows tapering to the end which is very ſmall. If a man takes hold of the Tail, except very near the hind quarter, it will part and break off in one of the joints, and the Guano will get away. They lay Eggs as moſt of thoſe amphi⯑bious creatures do, and are very good to eat. Their fleſh is much eſteem'd by Privateers, who commonly dreſs them for their ſick men; for they make very good Broath. They are of divers colours, as almoſt black, dark brown, light brown, dark green, light green, yellow and ſpeckled. They all live as well in the Water as on Land, and ſome of them are conſtantly in the Water and among Rocks: Theſe are commonly black. Others that live in ſwampy wet ground are commonly on Buſhes and Trees, theſe are green. But ſuch as live in dry ground, as here at Blanco are commonly yellow; yet theſe al⯑ſo will live in the Water, and are ſometimes on [58] Trees. The Road is on the N. W. end, againſt a ſmall Cove, or little ſandy Bay. There is no ri⯑ding any where elſe, for it is deep water, and ſteep, cloſe to the Land. There is one ſmall Spring on the Weſt ſide, and there are ſandy Bays round the Iſland, where Turtle or Tortoiſe, come up in great abundance, going aſhoar in the night. Theſe that frequent this Iſland are called green Turtle, and they are the beſt of that ſort, both for largneſs and ſweetneſs of any in all the Weſt Indies. I would here give a particular deſcription of theſe, and other ſorts of Turtle in theſe Seas; but becauſe I ſhall have occaſion to mention ſome other ſort of Turtle when I come again into the South Seas, that are very different from all theſe, I ſhall there give a general account of all theſe ſeveral ſorts at once, that the difference between them may be the better diſcern⯑ed. Some of our modern Deſcriptions ſpeak of Goats on this Iſland. I know not what there may have been formerly, but there are none now to my certain knowledge; for my ſelf, and many more of our Crew, have been all over it. Indeed theſe parts have undergone great changes in this laſt Age, as well in places themſelves, as in their Owners, and Commodities of them; particularly Nombre deDios, a City once famous, and which ſtill retains a conſi⯑derable name in ſome late accounts, is now nothing but a Name. For I have lain aſhoar in the place where that City ſtood; but it is all over-grown with Wood, ſo as to leave no ſign that any Town hath been there.

We ſtaid at the Iſle of Blanco not above ten days, and then went back to Salt-Tortuga again, where Captain Yanky parted with us: And from thence, after about 4 days, all which time our men were drunk and quarrelling, we in Capt. Wright's Ship went to the Coaſt of Caraccos on the Main Land. This Coaſt is upon ſeveral accounts very remarka⯑ble: [59] 'Tis a continued tract of high Ridges of Hills, and ſmall Valleys intermixt for about 20 leagues, ſtretching Eaſt and Weſt, but in ſuch manner, that the Ridges of Hills and the Valleys alternately run pointing upon the ſhore from South to North: The Valleys ſome of them about 4 or 5, others not above one or two furlongs wide, and in length from the Sea ſcarce any of them above 4 or 5 mile at moſt; there being a long ridge of Mountains at that di⯑ſtance from the Sea-coaſt, and in a manner parallel to it that joyns thoſe ſhorter Ridges, and cloſeth up the South end of the Valleys, which at the North ends of them lye open to the Sea, and make ſo many little ſandy Bays, that are the only landing places on the Coaſt. Both the main Ridge and theſe ſhorter Ribs are very high Land, ſo that 3 or 4 leagues off at Sea the Valleys ſcarce appear to the Eye, but all looks like one great Mountain. From the Iſles of Roca's about 15, and from the Iſle of Aves about 20 leagues off, we ſee this Coaſt very plain from on board our Ships, yet when at Anchor on this Coaſt, we cannot ſee thoſe Iſles; tho again from the tops of theſe Hills, they appear as if at no great diſtance, like ſo many Hillocks in a Pond. Theſe Hills are barren, except the lower ſides of them that are covered with ſome of the ſame rich black Mould that fiills the Valleys, and is as good as I have ſeen. In ſome of the Valleys there's a ſtrong red Clay, but in the general they are extreamly fertile, well water'd, and inhabited by Spaniards and their Negroes. They have Maiz and Plantains for their ſupport, with Indian Fowls and ſome Hogs. But the main product of theſe Valleys, and indeed the only Commodity it vends, are the Cacao Nuts, of which the Chocolate is made. The Cacao-Tree grows no where in the North Seas but in the Bay of Campeachy, on Coſta Rica, between Portabel and Nica⯑ragua, chiefly up Carpenters River; and on this Coaſt [60] as high as the Iſle of Trinidada. In the South Seas, it grows in the River of Guiaquil, a little to the Southward of the Line, and in the Valley of Collima, on the South ſide of the Continent of Mexico; both which places I ſhall hereafter deſcribe. Beſides theſe, I am confident there's no place in the World where the Cacao grows, except thoſe in Jamaica, of which there are now but few remaining, of many and large Walks or Plantations of them found there by the Engliſh at their firſt arrival, and ſince planted by them; and even theſe, tho there is a great deal of pains and care beſtowed on them, yet ſeldom come to any thing being generally blighted. The Nuts of this Coaſt of Caraccos, tho leſs than thoſe of Coſta Rica which are large flat Nuts, yet are bet⯑ter and fatter in my opinion, being ſo very oily, that we are forced to uſe Water in rubbing them up; and the Spaniards that live here, inſtead of parching them, to get off the Shell before they pound or rub them to make Chocalate, do in a manner burn 'em to dry up the Oil; for elſe they ſay, it would fill them too full of blood, drinking Chocolate as they do five or ſix times a day. My worthy Con⯑ſort Mr Ringroſe commends moſt the Guiaquil Nut; I preſume, becauſe he had little knowledge of the reſt, for being intimately acquainted with him, I know the courſe of his Travels and Experience: But I am perſwaded, had he known the reſt ſo well as I pretend to have done, who have at ſeveral times been long uſed to, and in a manner lived upon all the ſeveral ſorts of 'em above-mentioned, he would prefer the Caraccos Nuts before any other; yet poſ⯑ſibly the drying up of theſe Nuts ſo much by the Spa⯑niards here, as I ſaid, may leſſen their eſteem with thoſe Europeans, that uſe their Chocolate ready rubb'd up: So that we always choſe to make it up our ſelves.

[61] The Cacao Tree hath a Body about a foot and an half thick (the largeſt ſort) and 7 or 8 foot high to the Branches, which are large, and ſpreading like an Oak, with a pretty thick, ſmooth, dark-green leaf, ſhaped like that of a Plumb-Tree, but larger. The Nuts are incloſed in Cods as big as both a Man's Fiſts put together: At the broad end of which there is a ſmall, tough, limber ſtalk, by which they hang pendulous from the Body of the Tree, in all parts of it from top to bottom, ſcattered at irregular diſtances, and from the greater branches a little way up, eſpecially at the joints of them, or partings, where they hang thickeſt, but never on the ſmaller boughs: there may be ordinarily about 20 or 30 of theſe Cods upon a well bearing Tree; and they have 2 Crops of them in a year, one in December, but the beſt in June. The Cod it ſelf or Shell is almoſt half an Inch thick; neither ſpongy nor woody, but of a ſubſtance between both, brittle, yet harder than the Rind of a Lemmon; like which its ſurface is grained or knobb'd, but more courſe and unequal: the Cods at firſt are of a dark-green, but the ſide of them next the Sun of a muddy red. As they grow ripe, the green turns to a fine bright yellow, and the muddy to a more lively beautiful red, very pleaſant to the Eye. They neither ripen, nor are gathered at once: but for three weeks or a month when the Seaſon is, the Overſeers of the Plantations go every day about to ſee which are turned yellow; cutting at once it may be, not a⯑bove one from a Tree. The Cods thus gathered, they lay in ſeveral heaps to ſweat, and then burſting the Shell with their hands, they pull out the Nuts, which are the only ſubſtance they contain, having no ſtalk or pith among them, and (excepting that theſe Nuts lye in regular rows) are placed like the grains of Maiz, but ſticking together, and ſo cloſe⯑ly ſtowed, that after they have been once ſeparated, [62] it would be hard to place them again in ſo narrow a compaſs. There are generally near 100 Nuts in a Cod; in proportion to the greatneſs of which, for it varies, the Nuts are bigger or leſs. When taken out they dry them in the Sun upon Mats ſpread of the Ground; after which they need no more care, having a thin hard skin of their own, and much Oil which preſerves them. Salt water will not hurt them; for we had our Baggs rotten, lying in the bottom of our Ship, and yet the Nuts never the worſe. They raiſe the young Trees of Nuts, ſet with the great end down-ward in fine black Mould, and in the ſame places where they are to bear; which they do in 4 or 5 years time, without the trouble of tranſplanting. There are ordinarily of theſe Trees, from 500 to 2000 and upward in a Plantation or Cacao walk, as they call them; and they ſhelter the young Trees from the Weather with Plantains ſet about them for 2 or 3 years; de⯑ſtroying all the Pantains by ſuch time the Cacao-Trees are of a pretty good Body, and able to endure the heat; which I take to be the moſt pernicious to them of any thing; for tho theſe Valleys lye open to the North Winds, unleſs a little ſheltered here and there, by ſome Groves of Plantain Trees, which are purpoſely ſet near the Shores of the ſeveral Bays yet by all that I could either obſerve or learn, the Cacaos in this Country are never blighted, as I have often known them to be in other places. Ca⯑cao Nuts are uſed as Money in the Bay of Cam⯑peachy.

The chief Town of this Country is called Carac⯑cos, a good way within Land, 'tis a large we we [...]y place, where live moſt of the Owners of [...]ſe Cacao-walks, that are in the Valleys by th [...]; the Plantations being managed by Overſeers [...]nd Negroes. It is in a large Savannah Country, [...] abounds with Cattle, and a Spaniard of my acqu [...] ⯑tance, [63] a very ſencible Man who hath been there, tells me that 'tis very populous, and he judges it to be 3 times as big as Corunna an Gallicia. The way to it is very ſteep and craggy over that ridge of Hills, which I ſay cloſes up the Valleys and parti⯑tion Hills of the Cacao Coaſt. In this Coaſt it ſelf the chief place is la Guiare, a good Town cloſe by the Sea, and though it had but a bad Harbour, yet it is much frequented by the Spaniſh Shipping; for the Dutch and Engliſh Anchor in the ſandy Bays that lie here and there in the mouths of ſeve⯑ral Vallies, and where there is a good riding. The Town is open, but hath a ſtrong Fort; yet both were taken ſome years ſince by Captain Wright and his Privateers. 'Tis ſeated about 4 or 5 leagues to the Weſtward of Cape Blanco, which Cape is the Eaſtermoſt boundary of this Coaſt of Caraccos. Further Eaſtward about 20 leagues, is a great Lake or Branch of the Sea called Laguna de Venezaela; about which are many rich Towns, but the mouth of the Lake is ſo ſhallow, that no Ship can enter. Near this mouth is a place called Comana, where the Privateers were once repulſed without daring to attempt it any more, being the only place in the North Seas they attempted in vain for many years; and the Spaniards ſince throw it in their teeth fre⯑quently, as a word of reproach or defiance to them. Not far from that place is Verina, a ſmall Village and Spaniſh Plantation, famous for its Tobacco; reputed the beſt in the World.

But to return to Caraccos, all this Coaſt is ſubject to dry Winds, generally North Eaſt, which caus'd us to have ſcabby Lips; and we always ſound it thus, and that in different Seaſons of the year, for I have been on this Coaſt ſeveral times. In other reſpects it is very healthy, and a ſweet clear Air. The Spa⯑niards have Look-outs or Scouts on the Hills, and Breaſt-works in the Valleys, and moſt of [64] their Negroes are furniſhed with Arms alſo for de⯑fence of the Bays. The Dutch have a very profita⯑ble Trade here almoſt to themſelves. I have known three or four great Ships at a time on the Coaſt, each it may be of 30 or 40 Guns. They carry hi⯑ther all ſorts of European Commodities, eſpecially Linnen, making vaſt returns, chiefly in Silver and Cacao. And I have often wondred and regretted it, that none of my own Countrymen find the way thither directly from England; for our Jamaica-men trade thither indeed, and find the ſweet of it, tho they carry Engliſh Commodities at ſecond or third hand.

While we lay on this Coaſt, we went aſhore in ſome of the Bays, and took 7 or 8 Tun of Cacao; and after that 3 Barks, one laden with Hides, the ſecond with European Commodities, the third with Earthen ware and Brandy. With theſe 3 Barks we went again to the Iſland Roca's where we ſhared our Commodities and ſeparated, having Veſſels enough to tranſport us all whither we thought moſt convenient. Twenty of us (for we were about 60) took one of the Veſſels and our ſhare of the Goods, and went directly for Virginia. In our way thither we took ſeveral of the Sucking fiſhes; for when we ſee them about the Ship, we caſt out a Line and Hook, and they will take it with any manner of Bait, whether Fiſh or Fleſh: the Suck⯑ing fiſh is about the bigneſs of a large Whiting, and much of the ſome ſhape toward the Tayl, but the Head is flatter. From the head to the middle of it [...] back, there groweth a ſort of fleſh of a hard griſtl [...] ſubſtance, like that of the Limpit (a Shellfiſh [...] tapering up piramidically) which ſticks to th [...] Rocks; or like the head or mouth of a Shell Snai [...] but harder. This Exereſcence is of a flat oval for [...] about 7 or 8 inches long, and 5 or 6 broad, and r [...] ⯑ſing about half an inch high. It is full of ſma [...] [65] ridges, with which it will faſten it ſelf to any thing that it meets with in the Sea, juſt as a Snail doth to a Wall. When any of them happen to come about a Ship they ſeldom leave her, for they will feed on ſuch filth as is daily thrown over-board, or on meer Excrements. When it is fair weather, and but little wind, they will play about the Ship; but in bluſt⯑ering weather, or when the Ship ſails quick, they commonly faſten themſelves to the Ships bottom, from whence neither the Ships motion, tho ne⯑ver ſo ſwift, nor the moſt tempeſtuous Sea can re⯑move them. They will likewiſe faſten themſelves to any other bigger Fiſh; for they never ſwim faſt themſelves, if they meet with any thing to carry them. I have found them ſticking to a Shark, after it was hal'd i [...] on the Deck, though a Shark is ſo ſtrong and boiſterous a Fiſh, and throws about him ſo vehemently for half an hour together, it may be, when caught, that did not the Sucking-fiſh ſtick at no ordinary rate, it muſt needs be caſt off by ſo much violence. It is uſual alſo to ſee them ſticking to Tur⯑tle, to any old Trees, Planks or the like, that lie driving at Sea. Any knobs or inequalities at a Ships bottom, are a great hindrance to the ſwiftneſs of its ſailing; and 10 or 12 of theſe ſticking to it, muſt needs retard it as much in a manner, as if its bottom were foul. So that I am inclined to think that this Fiſh is the Remora, of which the Ancients tell ſuch ſtories; if it be not, I know no other that is, and I leave the Reader to judge. I have ſeen of theſe Suck⯑ing fiſhes in great plenty in the Bay of Campeachy, and in all the Sea between that and the Coaſt of C [...]ces, as about thoſe Iſlands particularly. I have lately deſcrib'd, Rocas, Blanco, Tortugas, &c. they have no ſcales, and are very good meat.

We met nothing elſe worth remark in our Voy⯑age to Virginia, where we arrived in July 1682. That Country is ſo well known to our Nation, that [66] I ſhall ſay nothing of it, nor ſhall I detain the Reader with the ſtory of my own Affairs, and the troubles that befel me during about 13 months of my ſtay there; but in the next Chapter, enter im⯑mediately upon my ſecond Voyage into the South Seas, and round the Globe.

CHAP. IV.

BEing now entring upon the Relation of a new Voyage, which makes up the main body of this Book, proceeding from Virginia by the way of Terra del Fuego, and the South Seas, the Eaſt Indies, and ſo on, till my return to England by the way of the Cape of good hope, I ſhall give my Reader this ſhort Account of my firſt entrance upon it. Among thoſe who [68] year 1683 accompanied Captain Sharp into the South Seas in our former Expedition, and leaving him there, re⯑turned over Land, as is ſaid in the Introduction, and in the 1ſt and 2d Chapters; there was one Mr Cook, an Engliſh Native of St Chriſtophers, a Cirole, as we call all born of European Parents in the Weſt-Indies. He was a ſenſible man, and had been ſome years a Privateer. At our joining our ſelves with thoſe Privateers we met at our coming again to the North Seas, his lot was to be with Captain Yanky, who kept company for ſome conſiderable time with Capt. Wright, in whoſe Ship I was, and part⯑ed with us at our 2d Anchoring at the Iſle of Tor⯑tugas, as I have ſaid in the laſt Chapter. After our parting, this Mr Cook being Quartermaſter un⯑der Captain Yanky, the ſecond place in the Ship, according to the Law of Privateers, laid claim to a Ship they took from the Spaniards; and ſuch of Captain Yanky's men as were ſo diſpoſed, particu⯑larly all thoſe who came with us over Land, went aboard this Prize Ship under the new Capt Cook. This deſtribution was made at the Iſle of Vacca, or the Iſle of Aſh, as we call it; and here they parted alſo ſuch Goods as they had taken. But Capt. Cook having no Commiſſion, as Captain Yanky, Captain Triſtian, and ſome other French Commanders had, who lay then at that Iſland, and they grutching the Engliſh ſuch a Veſſel, they all joined together, plun⯑dered the Engliſh of their Ship, Goods and Arms, and turned them aſhore. Yet Capt. Triſtian took in about 8 or 10 of theſe Engliſh and carried them with him to Petit Guavers: of which number Cap⯑tain Cook was one, and Capt. Davis another, who with the reſt found means to ſeize the Ship as ſhe lay at anchor in the Road, Capt. Triſtian and many of his men being then aſhore: and the Engliſh ſending aſhore ſuch French men as remained in the Ship and were maſtered by them, tho' ſuperior in number, [69] ſtood away with her immediately for the Iſle of Vac⯑ca, before any notice of this ſurprize could reach the French Governor of that Iſle; ſo deceiving him alſo by a Stratagem, they got on board the reſt of their Countrymen, wha had been left on that Iſland; and going thence they took a Ship newly come from France, laden with Wines. They alſo took a Ship of good force, in which they reſolved to em⯑bark themſelves, and make a new Expedition into the South Seas, to cruiſe on the Coaſt of Chili and Peru. But firſt they went for Virginia with their Prizes; where they arrived the April after my co⯑ming thither. The beſt of the Prizes carried 18 Guns: this they fitted up there with Sails, and eve⯑ry thing neceſſary for ſo long a Voyage; ſelling the Wines they had taken for ſuch Proviſions as they wanted. My ſelf and thoſe of our Fellow-travellers over the Iſthmus of America, who came with me to Virginia the year before this, (moſt of which had ſince made a ſhort Voyage to Carolina, and again returned to Virginia) reſolved to joyn our ſelves to theſe new Adventurers, and as many more engaged tn the ſame deſign as made our whole Crew conſiſt of 70 men. So having furniſhed our ſelves with neceſſary Materials, and agreed upon ſome particular Rules, eſpecially of Temperance and So⯑briety, by reaſon of the length of our intended Voy⯑age, we all went on board our Ship.

Auguſt 23. 1683. We ſailed from Achamack to Virginia, under the command of Capt. Cook, bound for the South Seas. I ſhall not trouble the Reader with an account of every days run, but haſten to the leſs known parts of the World, to give a de⯑ſcription of 'em; only relating ſuch memorable Accidents as happened to us, and ſuch places as we touched at by the way.

We met nothing worth obſervation till we came to the Iſlands of Cape Verd, except a terrible Storm, [70] which could not eſcape it: This happen'd in a few days after we left Virginia, with a S. S. E. wind juſt in our Teeth. The ſtorm laſted above a week: it drencht us all like ſo many drowned Rats, and was one of the worſt ſtorms I ever was in. One I met with in the Eaſt Indies was more violent for the time, but of not above 24 hours continuance. Af⯑ter that ſtorm we had favourable winds and good weather, and in ſhort time we arrived at the Iſland Sall, which is one of the Eaſtermoſt of the Cape Verd Iſlands. Of theſe there are ten in number (ſo con⯑ſiderable as to bear diſtinct names) and they lie ſe⯑veral degrees off from Cape Verd in Africk whence they receive that Appellation; taking up about 5 deg. of Longitude in breadth, and about as many of Latitude in their length, viz. from near 14 to 19 North. They are moſt inhabited by Portugueſe Banditti. This of Sall is an Iſland lying in the Lat. of 16 in Long. 19 deg. 33 m. Weſt from the Lizard in England, ſtretching from North to South about 8 or 9 leagues, and not above a league and an half or 2 leagues wide. It hath its name from the abun⯑dance of Salt that is naturally congealed there, the whole Iſland being full of large Salt-ponds. The Land is very barren, producing no Tree that I could ſee, but ſome ſmall ſhrubby Buſhes by the Sea ſide Neither could I diſcern any Graſs, yet there are ſome poor Goats on it.

I know not whether there are any other Beaſts on the Iſland: There are ſome wild Fowl, but I judge not many. I ſaw a few Flamingos, which is a ſort of large Fowl, much like a Heron in ſhape but bigger, and of a reddiſh colour. They delight to keep together in great companies, and feed in Mud or Ponds, or in ſuch places where there is not much Water: They are very ſhy, therefore it is hard to ſhoot them. Yet I have lain obſcured in the evening near a place where they reſort, and [71] with two more in my company have killed 14 of them at once; the firſt ſhot being made while they were ſtanding on the ground, the other two as they roſe. They build their Neſts in ſhallow Ponds, where there is much Mud, which they ſcrape toge⯑ther, making little Hillocks, like ſmall Iſlands, ap⯑pearing out of the Water, a foot and half high from the bottom. They make the foundation of theſe Hillocks broad, bringing them up tapering to the top, where they leave a ſmall hollow pit to lay their Eggs in; and when they either lay their Eggs, or hatch them, they ſtand all the while, not on the Hillock, but cloſe by it with their Legs on the ground and in the water, reſting themſelves againſt the Hillock, and covering the hollow Neſt upon it with their Rumps: For their Legs are very long; and building thus, as they do, upon the ground they could neither draw their Legs conveniently in⯑to their Neſts, nor ſit down upon them otherwiſe than by reſting their whole bodies there, to the pre⯑judice of their Eggs or their young, were it not for this admirable contrivance, which they have by na⯑tural inſtinct. They never lay more than two Eggs, and ſeldom fewer. They young ones cannot fly till they are almoſt full grown; but will run prodigi⯑ouſly faſt; yet we have taken many of them. The Fleſh of both young and old is lean and black, yet very good meat, taſting neither fiſhy, nor any way unſavory. Their Tongues are large, having a large knob of fat at the root, which is an excellent bit: a Diſh of Flamingo's Tongues being fit for a Princes Table.

When many of them are ſtanding together by a Ponds ſide, being half a mile diſtant from a Man, they appear to him like a Brick Wall; their Feathers being of the colour of new red Brick: and they commonly ſtand upright, and ſingle, one by one, exactly in a row (except when feeding) and cloſe [72] by each other. The young ones at firſt are of a light grey; and as their Wing-feathers ſpring out, they grow darker; and never come to their right colour, or any beautiful ſhape, under 10 or 11 months old. I have ſeen Flamingos at Rio la Hacha, and at an Iſland lying near the Main of America, right againſt Queriſao, called by Privateers Flamingo Key, from the multitude of theſe Fowls that breed there: and I never ſaw of their Neſts and young but here.

There are not above 5 or 6 Men on this Iſland of Sall, and a poor Governor, as they called him, who came on board in our Boat, and brought 3 or 4 poor lean Goats for a Preſent to our Captain, tel⯑ling him they were the beſt that the Iſland did afford. The Captain, minding more the poverty of the Giver than the value of the Preſent, gave him in requital a Coat to cloath him; for he had no⯑thing but a few Rags on his back, and an old Hat not worth 3 farthings; which yet I believe he wore but ſeldom, for fear he ſhould want before he might get another; for he told us there had not been a Ship in 3 years before. We bought of him about 20 buſhels of Salt for a few old Cloaths: and he begg'd a little Powder and Shot. We ſtay'd here 3 days; in which time one of theſe Partugueſe offered to ſome of our Men a lump of Ambergrieſe in ex⯑change for ſome Cloaths, deſiring them to keep it ſecret, for he ſaid if the Governor ſhould know it, he ſhould be hang'd. At length one Mr Coppinger bought it for a ſmall matter; yet I believe he gave more than it was worth. We had not a Man in the Ship that knew Ambergrieſe; but I have ſince ſeen it in other places, and therefore am certain it was not right. It was of a dark colour, like Sheeps Dung, and very ſoft, but of no ſmell, and poſſibly 'twas ſome of their Goats Dung. I afterwards ſaw ſome ſold at the Nequebars in the Eaſt Indies, which was of [73] a light colour, but very hard, neither had it any ſmell; and this alſo, I ſuppoſe, was a cheat. Yet it is certain that in both theſe places there is Am⯑bergrieſe found.

I was told by one John Read, a Briſtol Man, that he was Prentice to a Maſter who traded to theſe Iſlands of Cape Verd, and once as he was riding at an Anchor at Fogo, another of theſe Iſlands, there was a lump of it ſwam by the Ship, and the Boat being aſhoar he miſt it; but knew it to be Amber⯑grieſe, having taken up a lump ſwimming in the like manner the Voyage before, and his Maſter ha⯑ving at ſeveral times bought pieces of it of the Na⯑tives of the Iſle of Fogo, ſo as to enrich himſelf thereby. And ſo at the Necquebars, Engliſh men have bought, as I have been credibly informed, great quantities of very good Ambergrieſe. Yet the Inha⯑bitants are ſo ſubtil that they will counterfeit it, both there and here: and I have heard that in the Gulph of Florida, whence much of it comes, the Native Indians there uſe the ſame Fraud.

Upon this occaſion, I cannot omit to tell my Reader what I learnt from Mr Hill, a Chyrurgeon, upon his ſhewing me once a piece of Ambergrieſe, which was thus. One Mr Benjamin Berker, a Man that I have been long well acquainted with, and know him to be a very diligent and obſerving Per⯑ſon, and likewiſe very ſober and credible, told this Mr Hill, that being in the Bay of Honduras to pro⯑cure Logwood, which grows there in great abun⯑dance, and paſſing in a Canoa over to one of the Iſlands in that Bay, he found upon the ſhoar, on a ſandy Bay there, a lump of Ambergrieſe, ſo large, that when carried to Jamaica, he found it to weigh one hundred pound and upwards. When he firſt found it, it lay dry, above the mark which the Sea then came to at high-water; and he obſerved in it a great multitude of Beetles: It was of a dusky co⯑lour, [74] towards black, and about the hardneſs of mel⯑low Cheeſe, and of a very fragrant ſmell: This that Mr Hill ſhewed me, being ſome of it, which Mr Barker gave him. Beſides thoſe already mention'd, all the places where I have heard that Ambergrieſe hath been found, at Bermudas, and the Bahama Iſlands in the Weſt Indies; and that part of the Coaſt of Africk, with its adjacent Iſlands, which reaches from Mozambique to the Red Sea.

We went from this Iſland of Sall, to St Nicholas, another of the Cape Verd Iſlands, lying Weſt South Weſt from Sall, about 22 leagues. We arrived there the next day after we left the other, and An⯑chored on the S. E. ſide of the Iſland. This is a pretty large Iſland; it is one of the biggeſt of all the Cape Verd, and lieth in a triangular form. The largeſt ſide, which lieth to the Eaſt, is about 30 leagues long, and the other two above 20 leagues each. It is a mountainous barren Iſland, and rocky all round towards the Sea; yet in the heart of it, there are Valleys, where the Portugueſe, which inha⯑bit here, have Vineyards and Plantations, and Wood for fewed. Here are many Goats, which are but poor in compariſon with thoſe in other places, yet much better than thoſe at Sall: There are likewiſe many Aſſes. The Governor of this Iſland came aboard us, with 3 or 4 Gentlemen more in his com⯑pany, who were all indifferently well cloathed, and accoutred with Swords and Piſtols; but the reſt that accompanied him to the Sea-ſide, which were about 20 or 30 Men more, were but in a ragged garb. The Governor brought aboard ſome Wine made in the Iſland, which taſted much like Madera Wine: It was of a pale colour, and lookt thick. He told us the chief Town was in a Valley 14 mile from the Bay where we rode; that he had there under him above one hundred Families, beſides other Inhabitants that lived ſcattering in Valleys more re⯑more. [75] They were all very ſwarthy; the Gover⯑nor was the cleareſt of them, yet of a dark tawny complexion.

At this Iſland we ſcrubb'd the bottom of our Ship, and here alſo we dug Wells aſhoar on the Bay, and fill'd all our Water, and after 5 or 6 days ſtay, we went from hence to Mayo, another of the Cape Verd Iſlands, lying about 40 mile Eaſt and by South from the other; arriving there the next day, and anchoring on the N. W. ſide of the Iſland. We ſent our Boat on ſhoar, intending to have purchaſed ſome Proviſion, as Beef or Goats, with which this Iſland is better ſtock'd than the reſt of the Iſlands. But the Inhabitants would not ſuffer our Men to land; for about a week before our arrival there came an Engliſh Ship, the Men of which came aſhoar, pre⯑tending friendſhip, and ſeized on the Governour with ſome others, and carrying them aboard, made them ſend aſhoar for Cattle to ranſom their Liber⯑ties: and yet after this ſet ſail, and carried them away, and they had not heard of them ſince. The Engliſh Man that did this (as I was afterwards in⯑formed) was one Capt. Bond of Briſtol. VVhether ever he brought back thoſe Men again I know not: He himſelf and moſt of his Men have ſince gone over to the Spaniards: and 'twas he who had like to have burnt our Ship after this in the Bay of Pa⯑nama; as I ſhall have occaſion to relate.

This Iſle of Mayo is but ſmall, and invironed with ſholes, yet a place much frequented by ſhipping for its great plenty of Salt: and though there is but bad landing, yet many Ships lade here every year. Here are plenty of Bulls, Cows and Goats; and at a certain ſeaſon in the year, May, June, July, and Auguſt, a ſort of ſmall Sea Tortoiſe come hither to lay their Eggs: but theſe Turtle are not ſo ſweet as thoſe in the Weſt Indies. The inhabitants plant Corn, Yams, Potatoes, and ſome Plantains, and breed, [76] a few Fowls; living very poor, yet much better than the Inhabitants of any other of theſe Iſlands, St Jago excepted, which lieth 4 or 5 leagues to the Weſtward of Mayo, and is the chief, the moſt fruit⯑ful, and beſt inhabited of all the Iſlands of Cape Verd; yet mountainous, and much barren Land in it.

On the Eaſt-ſide of the Iſle St Jago is a good Port, which in peaceable times eſpecially is ſeldom without Ships; for this hath long been a place which Ships have been wont to touch at for Water and Refreſhments, as thoſe outward-bound to the Eaſt Indies, Engliſh, French and Dutch; many of the Ships bound to the Coaſt of Guinea, the Dutch to Surinam, and their own Portugueſe Fleet going for Braziel, which is generally about the latter end of Septemb, but few Ships call in here in their return for Europe. When any Ships are here the Country People bring down their Commodities to ſell to the Sea-men and Paſſengers, viz. Bullocks, Hogs, Goats, Fowls, Eggs, Plantains, and Coco Nuts, which they will give in exchange for Shirts, Drawers, Handker⯑chiefs, Hats, Waſtecoaſts, Britches, or in a man⯑ner for any ſort of Cloath, eſpecially Linnen, for Woollen is not much eſteemed there. They care not willingly to part with their Cattel of any ſort, but in exchange for Money, or Linnen, or ſome other valuable Commodity. Travellers muſt have a care of theſe People, for they are very thieviſh; and if they ſee an opportunity will ſnatch any thing from you, and run away with it. We did not touch at this Iſland in this Voyage; but I was there before this in the year 1670, when I ſaw a Fort here lying on the top of an Hill, and com⯑manding the Harbour.

The Governor of this Iſland is chief over all the reſt of the Iſlands. I have been told that there are two large Towns on this Iſland, ſome ſmall Villages, [77] and a great many Inhabitants; and that they make a great deal of Wine, ſuch as is that of St Nicholas. I have not been on any other of the Cape Verd Iſlands, nor near them; but have ſeen moſt of them at a diſtance. They ſeem to be mountainous and batren; ſome of theſe before-mentioned being the moſt fruitful and moſt frequented by Strangers, eſpecilly St Jago and Mayo. As to the reſt of them, Fogo and Brava are two ſmall Iſlands lying to the Weſtward of St Jago, but of little note; only Fogo is remarkable for its being a Vulcano: It is all of it one large Mountain of a good heighth, out of the top whereof iſſue Flames of Fire, yet only diſcerned in the night: and then it may be ſeen a great way at Sea. Yet this Iſland is not without inhabitants, who live at the foot of the Mountain near the Sea. Their ſubſtance is much the ſame as in the other Iſlands; they have ſome Goats, Fowls, Plantains, Coco-Nuts, &c. as I am informed. Of the Plan⯑tains and Coco-Nuts I ſhall have occaſion to ſpeak when I come into the Eaſt Indies; and ſhall defer the giving an account of them till then.

The remainder of theſe Iſlands of Cape Verd, are St Anthonia, St Lucia, St Vincente, and Bona-Viſta: of which I know nothing conſiderable.

Our entrance among theſe Iſlands was from the North Eaſt; for in our paſſage from Virginia we ran pretty far toward the Coaſt of Gualata in Africk, to preſerve the Trade-wind, leſt we ſhould be born off too much to the Weſtward, and ſo loſe the Iſlands. We anchored at the South of Sall, and paſſing by the South of St Nicholas anchored again at Mayo, as hath been ſaid; where we made the ſhorter ſtay, becauſe we could get no Fleſh among the Inhabitants, by reaſon of the regret they had at their Governor, and his Mens being carried away by Captain Bond. So leaving the Iſles of Cape Verd we ſtood away to the Southward with the Wind at E. N. E. intending to [78] have touched no more till we came to the Streights of Magellan. But when we came into the lat. of 10 deg. North, we met the Wind at S. by W. and S. S. W. therefore we altered our Reſolutions, and ſteered away for the Coaſt of Guinea, and in few days came to the Mouth of the River of Sherbor [...], which is an Engliſh Factory, lying South of Sierra Liona. We had one of our Men who was well ac⯑quainted there; and by his direction we went in among the ſhoals, and came to an Anchor.

Sherboro was a good way from us, ſo I can give no account of the place, or our Factory there; ſave that I have been informed, that there is a conſiderable Trade driven there for a ſort of red Wood for dying, which grows in that Country very plentifully, [...] called by our people Cam-wood. A little within the ſhoar where we anchored was a Town of Negroes, Natives of this Coaſt. It was skreen'd from our ſight by a large Grove of Trees that grew between them and the ſhoar: but we went thither to them ſeveral times, during the 3 or 4 days of our ſtay here, to refreſh our ſelves; and they as often came aboard us, bringing with them Plantains, Sugar-Canes, Palm-wines, Rice, Fowls and Honey, which they ſold us. They were no way ſhy of us, being well ac⯑quainted with the Engliſh, by reaſon of our Guinea Factories and Trade. This Town ſeem'd pretty large; the Houſes but low and ordinary; but one great Houſe in the midſt of it, where their chief Men meet and receive Strangers: and here they treated us with Palm-wine. As to their Perſons [...] they are like other Negroes. While we lay he [...] we ſcrubb'd the bottom of our Ship, and then fill [...] all our Water casks; and buying up two Puncheo [...] of Rice for our Voyage, we departed from hen [...] about the m [...]le of November, 1683. proſecuti [...] our inten [...] [...] towards the Streights of Mage⯑lan.

[79] We had but little wind after we got out, and very hot weather, with ſome fierce Tornadoes, commonly riſing out of the N. E. which brought Thunder, Lightening and Rain. Theſe did not laſt long; ſometimes not a quarter of an hour, and then the Wind would ſhuffle about to the Southward again, and fall flat calm, for theſe Tornadoes commonly come againſt the Wind that is then blowing, as our Thunder-clouds are often obſerved to do in Eng⯑land; but the Tornadoes I ſhall deſcribe more large⯑ly in my Chapter of Winds, in the Appendix to this Book. At this time many of our Men were taken with Fevers; yet we loſt but one. While we lay in the calms we caught ſeveral great Sharks, ſome⯑times 2 or 3 in a day, and eat them all, boyling and ſqueezing them dry, and then ſtewing them with Vinegar, Pepper, &c. for we had but little Fleſh a⯑board. We took the benefit of every Tornado, which came ſometimes 3 or 4 in a day, and carried what ſail we could to get to the Southward, for we had but little Wind when they were over, and thoſe [...]all Winds between the Tornadoes were much a⯑ [...]inſt us, at S. by E. and S. S. E. till we paſt the [...]uinorial Line, which we croſt about a degree to [...]e Eaſtward of the Meridian of the Iſle of St Jago, [...]e of the Cape Verd Iſlands.

At firſt we could ſcarce lie S. W. but being got a degree to the Southward of the Line, the Wind [...]r'd moſt Eaſterly, and then we ſtemm'd S. W. [...]y S. and as we got farther to the Southward, ſo [...]e Wind came about to the Eaſtward and freſhened [...] us. In the Lat. of 3 S. we had the Wind at [...] in the Lat. of 5 we had it at E. S. E. where [...] ſtood a conſiderable time, and blew a freſh Top⯑ [...]nt gale. We then made the beſt uſe of it, ſteer⯑ [...]g on briskly with all the ſail we could make; [...] this wind, by the 18th of Jan. carried us into the [...] of [...] South. In all this time we met with [80] nothing worthy remark, not ſo much as a Fiſh, ex⯑cept Flying Fiſh, which have been ſo often deſcri⯑bed, that I think it needleſs for me to do it.

Here we found the Sea much changed from its natural greenneſs to a white, or paliſh colour, which cauſed us to ſound, ſuppoſing we might ſtrike ground; for whenever we find the colour of the Sea to change, we know we are not far from Land, or ſhoals which ſtretch out into the Sea, running from ſome Land. But here we found no ground with one hundred fathom Line. I was this day at noon by reckoning, 48 d. 50 m. Weſt from the Lizard, the variation by our morning amplitude 15 d. 50 m. Eaſt, the variation encreaſing. The 20th day one of our Chyrurgeons died much lament⯑ed, becauſe we had but one more for ſuch a dange⯑rous Voyage.

January 28. We made the Sibbel de Wards, which are 3 Iſlands lying in the lat. of 51 d. 25 m. South and longitude Weſt from the Lizard in England, by my account, 57 d. 28 m. the variation here we found to be 23 d. 10 m. I had for a month before we came hither, endeavoured to perſwade Captain Cook and his Company to anchor at theſe Iſlands [...] where I told them we might probably get water, a [...] I then thought, and in caſe we ſhould miſs of i [...] here, yet by being good Husbands of what we had [...] we might reach John Fernando's in the South Seas before our water was ſpent. This I urged to hinde [...] their deſigns of going through the Streights of Ma⯑gellan, which I knew would prove very dangerou [...] to us; the rather becauſe our men being Privateers and ſo more wilful, and leſs under command, woul [...] not be ſo ready to give a watchful attendance in [...] paſſage ſo little known. For altho theſe men we [...] more under command than I had ever ſeen an [...] Privateers, yet I could not expect to find them a [...] a minutes call, in coming to an Anchor, or weigh+ [81] ing Anchor: Beſide, if ever we ſhould have occa⯑ſion to moor, or caſt out two Anchors, we had not a Boat to carry out or weigh an Anchor. Theſe Iſlands of Sibbel de Wards were ſo named by the Dutch. They are all three rocky barren Iſlands with⯑out any Tree, only ſome Dildo-buſhes growing on them: And I do believe there is no Water on any one of them, for there was no appearance of any Water. The two Northernmoſt we could not come near but the Southermoſt we came cloſe by, but could not ſtrike ground till within 2 Cables length of the ſhore, and there found it to be foul rocky Ground.

From the time that we were in 10 deg. South, till we came to theſe Iſlands, we had the Wind be⯑tween E. N. E. and the N. N. E. fair weather, and a briſk gale. The day that we made theſe Iſlands we ſaw great ſholes of ſmall Lobſters, which co⯑loured the Sea red in ſpots, for a mile in compaſs, and we drew ſome of them out of the Sea in our Water-buckets. They were no bigger than the top of a Man's little Finger, yet all their Claws, both great and ſmall like a Lobſter. I never ſaw any of this ſort of Fiſh naturally red but here; for ours on the Engliſh Coaſt, which are black naturally, are not red till they are boiled: Neither did I ever any where elſe meet with any Fiſh of the Lobſter-ſhape ſo ſmall as theſe; unleſs, it may be, Shrimps or Prawns: Capt. Swan and Capt. Eaton met alſo with ſholes of this Fiſh in much the ſame Latitude and Longitude.

Leaving therefore the Sibbel de Wards Iſlands, as having neither good Anchorage nor Water, we ſailed on directing our Courſe for the Streights of Magellan. But the Winds hanging in the Weſter [...] board, and blowing hard, oft put us by our Topſails, ſo that we could not fetch it. The 6th day of Fe⯑bruary we fell in with the Streights Le Mair, which [82] is very high Land on both ſides, and the Streights very narrow. We had the Wind at N. N. W. a freſh gale; and ſeeing the Opening of the Streights, we ran in with it till within four Mile of the Mouth, and then it fell calm, and we found a ſtrong Tide ſetting out of the Streights to the Northward, and like to founder our Ship; but whether flood or ebb I know not; only it made ſuch a ſhort cockling Sea, as if it had been in a Race, or place where two Tides meet; for it ran every way, ſometimes break⯑ing in over our waſte, ſometimes over our Poop, ſometimes over our Bow, and the Ship toſſed like an Egg-ſhell, ſo that I never felt ſuch uncertain Jerks in a Ship. At 8 a clock in the Evening we had a ſmall Breeze at W. N. W. and ſteered away to the Eaſtward, intending to go round the States Iſland, the Eaſt end of which we reached the next day by Noon, having a freſh Breeze all Night.

The 7th day at Noon being off the Eaſt end of States Iſland, I had a good obſervation of the Sun, and found my ſelf in lat. 54 d. 52. m. South.

At the Eaſt end of States Iſland are three ſmall Iſlands, or rather Rocks, pretty high, and white with the Dung of Fowls. Wherefore having ob⯑ſerved the Sun, we haled up South, deſigning to paſs round to the Southward of Cape Horne, which is the Southermoſt Land of Terra del Fuego. The Winds hung in the Weſtern quarter betwixt the N. W. and the Weſt, ſo that we could not get much to the Weſtward, and we never ſaw Terra del Fuego after that Evening that we made the Streight Le Mair. I have heard that there have been Smokes and Fires on Terra del Fuego, not on the tops of Hills, but in Plains and Valleys, ſeen by thoſe who have ſailed thro' the Streights of Magellan; ſuppoſed to be made by the Natives.

We did not ſee the Sun at riſing or ſetting, in or⯑der to take an amplitude after we left the Sibbel de [83] Wards, till we got into the South Sea: Therefore I know not whether the variation increaſed any more or no. Indeed I had an obſervation of the Sun at Noon, in lat. 59 d. 30 m. and we were then ſtanding to the Southward with the Wind at W. by N. and that Night the Wind came about more to the Southward of the Weſt, and we tackt. I was then in lat. 60 by reckoning, which was the fartheſt South lat. that ever I was in.

The 14th day of Feb. being in lat. 57, and to the Weſt of Cape Horne, we had a violent Storm, which held us till the 3d day of March, blowing com⯑monly S. W. and S. W. by W. and W. S. W. thick Weather all the time, with ſmall drizling Rain, but not hard. We made a ſhift however to ſave 23 Bar⯑rels of Rain-water, beſides what we dreſt our Victuals withal.

March the 3d the Wind ſhifted at once, and came about at South, blowing a fierce gale of Wind, ſoon after it came about to the Eaſtward, and we ſtood into the South Seas.

The 9th day having an observation of the Sun, not having ſeen it of late, we found our ſelves in lat: 47 d. 10 m. and the variation to be but 15 d. 30 m. Eaſt.

The Wind ſtood at S. E. we had fair Weather, and a moderate Gale, and the 17th day we were in lat. 36 by Obſervation, and then found the variation to be but 8 d. Eaſt.

The 19th day when we looked out in the Morn⯑ing we ſaw a Ship to the Southward of us, coming with all the Sail ſhe could make after us: We lay [...]uzled to let her come up with us, for we ſuppoſed her to be a Spaniſh Ship come from Baldivia bound to Lima: we being now to the Northward of Baldivia, and this being the time of the year when Ships that Trade thence to Baldivia return Home: They had the ſame opinion of us, and therefore made ſure to [84] take us, but coming nearer we both found ourmiſtakes. This proved to be one Capt. Eaton in a Ship ſent purpoſely from London for the South Seas. We haled each other, and the Capt. came on Board, and told us of his Actions on the Coaſt of Brazil, and in the Ri⯑ver of Plate.

He met Captain Swan (one that came from Eng⯑land to Trade here) at the Eaſt Entrance into the Streights of Magellan, and they accompanied each other thro' the Streights, and were ſeparated after they were thro' by the Sto rm before-mentioned. Both we and Capt. Eaton being bound for John Fernando's Iſle, we kept Company, and we ſpared him Bread and Beef, and he ſpared us Water, which he took in as he paſſed thro' the Streights.

March the 22d, 1684. we came in ſight of the Iſland, and the next day got in and anchored in a Bay at the South end of the Iſland, in 25 fathom Water, not two Cables lengths from the ſhore. We preſently got out our Canoa, and went aſhore to ſee for a Moſkito Indian, whom we left here when we were chaſed hence by 3 Spaniſh Ships in the year 1681. a little before we went to Arica; Capt. Watlin being then our Commander, after Capt. Sharp, was turn'd out.

This Indian lived here alone above 3 years, and altho' he was ſeveral time ſought after by the Spa⯑niards, who knew he was left on the Iſland, yet they could never find him. He was in the Woods, hunting for Goats, when Capt. Watlin drew off his Men, and the Ship was under ſail before he came back to ſhore. He had with him his Gun and a Knife, with a ſmall Horn of Powder, and a few Shot; which being ſpent, he contrived a way by notching his Knife, to ſaw the Barrel of his Gun into ſmall Pieces, wherewith he made Harpoons, Lances, Hooks and a long Knife; heating the pieces firſt in the fire, which he ſtruck with his Gun⯑flint, [85] and a piece of the Barrel of his Gun, which he hardned; having learnt to do that among the Engliſh. The hot pieces of Iron he would hammer out and bend as he pleaſed with Stones, and ſaw them with his jagged Knife, or grind them to an Edge by long labour, and harden them to a good temper as there was occaſion. All this may ſeem ſtrange to thoſe that are not acquainted with the ſagacity of the In⯑dians; but it is no more than theſe Moſkito Men are accuſtomed to in their own Country, where they make their own Fiſhing and ſtriking Inſtruments, without either Forge or Anvil; tho' they ſpend a great deal of time about them.

Other wild Indians who have not the uſe of Iron, which the Moſkito Men have from the Engliſh, make Hatchets of a very hard Stone, with which they will cut down Trees, (the Cotton-Tree eſpecially, which is a ſoft tender Wood) to build their Houſes or make Canoas; and tho' in working their Canoas hollow, they cannot dig them ſo neat and thin, yet they will make them fit for their Service. This their Digging or Hatchet-work they help out by Fire; whether for the felling of the Trees, or for the making the inſide of their Canoa hollow. Theſe Contrivances are uſed particularly by the Savage In⯑dians of Blewfield's River, deſcribed in the 3d Chap⯑ter, whoſe Canoas and Stone-Hatchets I have ſeen. Theſe Stone-Hatchets are about 10 Inches long, 4 bread, and 3 Inches thick in the middle. They are grownd away flat and ſharp at both ends: Right in the midſt, and clear round it they make a notch, ſo wide and deep that a Man might place his Fin⯑ger along it, and taking a ſtick or withe about 4 foot long, they bind it round the Hatchet-head, in that notch, and ſo twiſting it hard, uſe it as an handle or helve; the head being held by it very faſt. Nor are other wild Indians leſs ingenious. Thoſe of Patagonia, particularly, head their Arrows [86] with Flint, cut or ground; which I have ſeen and admired. But to return to our Moſkito Man on the Iſle of J. Fernando. With ſuch Inſtruments as he made in that manner, he got ſuch Proviſion as the Iſland afforded; either Goats or Fiſh. He told us that at firſt he was forced to eat Seal, which is very ordinary Meat, before he had made hooks: but afterwards he never killed any Seals but to make Lines, cutting their Skins into Thongs. He had a little Houſe or Hut half a mile from the Sea, which was lined with Goats Skin; his Couch or Barbecu of Sticks lying along about 2 foot diſtant from the Ground, was ſpread with the ſame, and was all his Bedding. He had no Cloaths left, having worn out thoſe he brought from Waltin's Ship, but only a Skin about his Waſte. He ſaw our Ship the day before we came to an Anchor, and did believe we were Engliſh, and therefore kill'd 3 Goats in the Morning, before we came to an Anchor, and dreſt them with Cabbage, to treat us when we came a⯑ſhore. He came then to the Sea ſide to cogratulate our ſafe arrival. And when we landed, a Moſkito Indian, named Robin, firſt leap'd aſhore, and running to his Brother Moſkito Man, threw himſelf flat on his face at his feet, who helping him up, and em⯑bracing him, fell flat with his face on the Ground at Robin's feet, and was by him taken up alſo. We ſtood with pleaſure to behold the ſuprize and ten⯑derneſs, and ſolemnity of this interview, which was exceedingly affectionate on both ſides; and when their Ceremonies of Civility were over, we alſo that ſtood gazing at them drew near, each of us embracing him we had found here, who was over⯑joyed to ſee ſo many of his old Friends come hither as he thought purpoſely to fetch him. He was named Will, as the other was Robin. Theſe were names given them by the Engliſh, for they have no Names among themſelves; and they take it as a great favour to be [87] named by any of us; and will complain for want of it, if we do not appoint them ſome name when they are with us: ſaying of themſelves they are poor Men, and have no Name.

This Iſland is in lat. 34 d. 15 m. and about 120 leagues from the Main. It is about 12 leagues round, full of high Hills, and ſmall pleaſant Valleys; which if manured, would probably produce any thing proper for the Climate. The ſides of the Moun⯑tains are part Savannahs, part Wood-land. Savannahs are clear pieces of Land without Woods; not be⯑cauſe more barren than the Wood-land, for they are frequently ſpots of as good Land as any, and often are intermixt with Wood-land. In the Bay of Campeachy are very large Savannahs, which I have ſeen full of Cattle: But about the River of Plate are the largeſt that every I heard of, 50, 60, or 100 Miles in length; and Jamaica, Cuba and Hiſpaniola, have many Savannahs intermixt with Woods. Places cleared of Wood by Art and Labour do not go by this Name, but thoſe only which are found ſo in the uninhabited parts of America, ſuch as this Iſle of John Fernando's; or which were originally clear in other parts.

The Graſs in theſe Savannahs at John Fernando's is not a long flaggy Graſs, ſuch as is uſually in the Sa⯑vannahs in the Weſt-Indies, but a ſort of kindly Graſs, both thick and flouriſhing the biggeſt part of the year. The Woods afford divers ſorts of Trees; ſome large and good Timber for Building, but none fit for Maſts. The Cabbage Trees of this Iſle are but ſmall and low; yet afford a good head, and the Cabbage very ſweet. This Tree I ſhall deſcribe in the Appendix in the Bay of Campeachy.

The Savannahs are ſtocked with Goats in great Herds: but thoſe that live on the Eaſt end of the Iſland are not ſo fat as thoſe on the Weſt end; for though there is much more Graſs, and plenty of [88] Water in every Valley, nevertheleſs they thrive not ſo well here as on the Weſt-end, where there is leſs Food; and yet there are found greater Flocks, and thoſe too fatter and ſweeter.

That Weſt end of the Iſland is all high Champi⯑on Ground without any Valley, and but one place to land; there is neither Wood nor any freſh Water, and the Graſs ſhort and dry.

Goats were firſt put on the Iſland by John Fer⯑nando, who firſt diſcovered it in his Voyage from Lima to Baldivia; (and diſcovered alſo another Iſland about the ſame bigneſs, 20 leagues to the Weſtward of this.) From thoſe Goats theſe were propagated, and the Iſland hath taken its Name from this its firſt Diſcoverer; who, when he returned to Lima, de⯑ſired a Patent for it, deſigning to ſettle here; and it was in his ſecond Voyage hither that he ſet aſhore 3 or 4 Goats, which have ſince, by their increaſe, ſo well ſtock'd the whole Iſland. But he could never get a Patent for it, therefore it lies ſtill deſtitute of Inhabitants, tho' doubtleſs capable of maintaining 4 or 500 Families, by what may be produced off the Land only. I ſpeak much within compaſs; for the Savannahs would at preſent feed 1000 Head of Cattle [...] Goats, and the Land being cultivated would probably bear Corn, or Wheat, and good Peaſe, Yams, or Potatoes; for the Land in their Valleys and ſides of the Mountains, is of a good black fruitful Mould. The Sea about it is likewiſe very productive of its Inhabitants. Seals ſwarmas thick about this Iſland, as if they had no other place in the World to live in; for there is not a Bay nor Rock that one can get aſhoar on, but is full of them. Sea Lyons are here in great Companies, and Fiſh, par⯑ticularly Snappers and Rock-fiſh, are ſo plentiful, that two Men in an hours time will take with Hook and Line, as many as will ſerve 100 Men.

[89] The Seals are a ſort of Creatures pretty well known, yet it may not be amiſs to deſcribe them. They are as big as Calves, the Head of them like a Dog, therefore called by the Dutch the Sea-hounds. Under each Shoulder grows a long thick Fin: Theſe ſerve them to ſwim with when in the Sea, and are inſtead of Legs to them when on the Land for raiſing their Bodies up on end, by the help of theſe Fins or Stumps, and ſo having their Tail-parts drawn cloſe under them, they rebound, as it were, and throw their Bodies forward, drawing their hinder parts after them; and then again riſing up, and ſpringing forward with their fore-parts alternately, they lie tumbling thus up and down, all the while they are moving on Land. From their Shoulders to their Tails they grow tapering like Fiſh, and have two ſmall Fins on each ſide the Rump: which is commonly covered with their Fins. Theſe Fins ſerve inſtead of a Tail in the Sea; and on Land they ſit on them, when they give ſuck to their young. Their Hair is of divers Colours, as black, grey, dun, ſpotted, looking very ſleek and pleaſant when they come firſt out of the Sea: For theſe at John Fernan⯑do's have fine thick ſhort Furr; the like I have not taken notice of any where but in theſe Seas. Here are always thouſands, I might ſay poſſibly millions of them, either ſitting on the Bays, or going and coming in the Sea round the Iſland, which is co⯑vered with them (as they lie at the top of the Wa⯑ter playing and ſunning themſelves) for a mile or two from the ſhore. When they come out of the Sea they bleat like Sheep for their young; and though they paſs through hundreds of others young ones before they come to their own, yet they will not ſuffer any of them to ſuck. The young ones are like Puppies, and lie much aſhore, but when beaten by any of us, they, as well as the old ones, will make towards the Sea, and ſwim very ſwift [90] and nimble; tho' on ſhore they lie very ſluggiſhly, and will not go out of our ways unleſs we beat them, but ſnap at us. A blow on the Noſe ſoon kills them. Large Ships might here load themſelves with Seals Skins and Trane-oyl; for thy are extra⯑ordinary fat. Seals are found as well in cold as hot Climates; and in the cold places they love to get on Lumps of Ice, where they will lie and ſun them⯑ſelves, as here on the Land: They are frequent in the Northern parts of Europe and America, and in the Southern parts of Africa, as about the Cape of Good Hope, and at the Streights of Magellan: And tho' I never ſaw any in the Weſt-Indies, but in the Bay of Campeachy, at certain Iſlands called the Alceranes, and at others called the Deſarts; yet they are over all the American Coaſt of the South-Seas, from Terra del Fuego, up to the Equinoctial Line; but to the North of the Equinox again, in theſe Seas, I never ſaw any, till as far as 21 North lat. Nor did I ever ſee any in the Eaſt-Indies. In general they ſeem to re⯑ſort where there is plenty of Fiſh, for that is their Food; and Fiſh, ſuch as they feed on, as Cods, Groopers, &c. are moſt plentiful on rocky Coaſts: and ſuch is moſtly this Weſtern Coaſt of the South America, as I ſhall further relate.

The Sea-Lion is a large Creature about 12 or 14 foot long. The biggeſt part of his Body is as big as a Bull: It is ſhaped like a Seal, but 6 times as big. The Head is like a Lion's Head; it hath a broad Face, with many long Hairs growing about its Lips like a Cat. It has a great goggle Eye, the Teeth 3 Inches long, about the bigneſs of a Man's Thumb; In Capt. Sharp's time ſome of our Men made Dice with them. They have no Hair on their Bodies like the Seal; they are of a dun colour, and are all extraor⯑dinary fat; one of them being cut up and boiled, will yield a Hogſhead of Oil, which is very ſweet and wholſome to fry Meat withal. The lean Fleſh [91] is black, and of a courſe Grain, yet indifferent good Food. They will lie a week at a time aſhore if not diſturbed: Where 3 or 4, or more of them, come a⯑ſhore together; they huddle one on another like Swine, and grunt like them, making a hideous noiſe. They eat Fiſh, which I believe is their com⯑mon Food.

The Snapper is a Fiſh much like a Roach, but a great deal bigger. It hath a large Head and Mouth, and great Gills. The Back is of a bright red, the Belly of a Silver Colour: The Scales are as broad as a Shilling. The Snapper is excellent Meat. They are in many places in the Weſt-Indies, and the South-Seas: I have not ſeen them any where beſide.

The Rock-fiſh is called by Seamen a Grooper; the Spaniards call it a Baccalao, which is the name for Cod, becauſe it is much like it. It is rounder than the Snapper, of a dark brown colour; and hath ſmall Scales no bigger than a Silver-penny. This Fiſh is good ſweet Meat, and is found in great plenty on all the Coaſt of Peru and Chili.

There are only two Bays in the whole Iſland where Ships may anchor; theſe are both at the Eaſt-end, and in both of them is a Rivolet of good freſh Water. Either of theſe Bays may be fortified with little charge, to that degree that 50 Men in each may be able to keep off 1000; and there is no com⯑ing into theſe Bays from the Weſt-end, but with great difficulty, over the Mountains, where if 3 Men are placed, they may keep down as many as come a⯑gainſt them on any ſide. This was partly experien⯑ced by 5 Engliſhmen that Capt. Davis left here, who defended themſelves againſt a great Body of Spani⯑ards who landed in the Bays, and came here to de⯑ſtroy them; and tho' the ſecond time one of their Conſorts deſerted and fled to the Spaniards, yet the other 4 kept their Ground, and were afterward ta⯑ken in from hence by Capt. Strong of London.

[92] We remained at John Fernando's 16 days; our ſick Men were aſhore all the time, and one of Captain Eaton's Doctors (for he had four in his Ship) tending and feeding them with Goat and ſeveral Herbs, whereof here is plenty growing in the Brooks; and their Diſeaſes were chiefly Scor⯑butick.

CHAP. V.

year 1684 THE 8th of April, 1684. we ſailed from the Iſle of J. Fernando, with the Wind at S. E. We were now two Ships in Company: Captain Cook's, [94] whoſe Ship I was in, and who here took the Sick⯑neſs of which he died a while after; and Captain Eaton's. Our paſſage lay now along the Pacifick Sea, properly ſo called. For tho' it be uſual with our Map-makers to give that Name to this whole O⯑cean, calling it Mare Auſtrale, Mal del Zur, or Mare Pacificum; yet, in my opinion, the Name of the Pacifick Sea ought not to be extended from South to North farther than from 30 to about 4 deg. South Latitude, and from the American ſhore Weſtward indefinitely, with reſpect to my obſervation; who have been in theſe parts 250 Leagues or more from Land, and ſtill had the Sea very quiet from Winds. For in all this Tract of Water, of which I have ſpoken, there are no dark rainy Clouds, tho' often a thick Horizon, ſo as to hinder an Obſervation of the Sun with the Quadrant; and in the Morning hazy weather frequently, and thick Miſts, but ſcarce able to wet one. Nor are there in this Sea any Winds but the Trade-wind, no Tempeſt, no Tornadoes or Hurricanes (tho' North of the Equator, they are met with as well in this Ocean as in the Atlantick) yet the Sea it ſelf at the new and full of the Moon runs with high, large, long Surges, but ſuch as never break out at Sea, and ſo are ſafe enough; unleſs that where they fell in and break upon the Shore, they make it bad landing.

In this Sea we made the beſt of our way toward the Line, till in the lat. of 24 S. where we fell in with the main Land of the South America. All this courſe of the Land, both of Chili and Pern is vaſtly high; therefore we kept 12 or 14 leagues off from ſhore, being unwilling to be ſeen by the Spaniards dwelling there. The Land (eſpecially beyond this, from 24 deg. S. Lat. 17. and from 14 to 10) is of a moſt prodigious heighth. It lies generally in Ridges parallel to the ſhore, and 3 or 4 Ridges, one with another, each ſurpaſſing other in heighth; [95] and thoſe that are fartheſt within Land, are much higher than others. They always appear blue when ſeen at Sea; ſometimes they are obſcur'd with Clouds, but not ſo often as the high Lands in other parts of the World; for here are ſeldom or never any Rains on theſe Hills, any more than in the Sea near it; neither are they ſubject to Fogs. Theſe are the high⯑eſt Mountains that ever I ſaw, far ſurpaſſing the Pike of Tenariffe, or Santa Martha, and, I believe, any Mountains in the World.

I have ſeen very high Land in the Lat of 30 South, but not ſo high as in the Latitudes before deſcribed. In Sir John Narborough's Voyage alſo to Baldivia (a City on this Coaſt) mention is made of very high Land ſeen near Baldivia: and the Spa⯑niards, with whom I have diſcourſed, have told me, that there is a very high Land all the way between Coquimbo (which lies in about 30 d. South. lat.) and Baldivia, which is in 40 South; ſo that by all likeli⯑hood theſe Ridges of Mountains do run in a conti⯑nued Chain from one end of Peru and Chili to the other, all along this South-Sea Coaſt, called uſually the Andes, or Sierra Nuevada des Andes. The exceſſive heighth of theſe Mountains may poſſibly be the reaſon that there are no Rivers of note that fall in⯑to theſe Seas. Some ſmall Rivers indeed there are, but very few of them, for in ſome places there is not one that comes out into the Sea in 150 or 200 Leagues, and where they are thickeſt they are 30, 40, or 50 Leagues aſunder, and too little and ſhallow to be Navigable. Beſides, ſome of theſe do not con⯑ſtantly run, but are dry at certain Seaſons of the Year; as the River of Ylo, runs fluſh with a quick Current at the latter end of January, and ſo con⯑tinues till June, and then it decreaſeth by degrees, growing leſs, and running ſlow till the latter end of September, when it fails wholly, and runs no more till January again: This I have ſeen at both Sea⯑ſons, [96] in 2 former Voyages I made hither, and have been informed by the Spaniards, that other Rivers on this Coaſt are of the like Nature, being rather Torrents or Land-floods cauſed by their Rains at cer⯑tain Seaſons far within Land, than perennial ſtreams.

We kept ſtill along in ſight of this Coaſt, but at a good diſtance from it, encountring with nothing of note, till in the lat of 9 deg. 40 min. South, on the 3d of May, we deſcried a Sail to the Northward of us. She was plying to Windward, we chaſed her, and Capt. Eaton being a head ſoon took her: She came from Guiaquil about a Month before, laden with Timber, and was bound to Lima. Three days before we took her, ſhe came from Santa, whither ſhe had gone for Water, and where they had news of our being in theſe Seas by an expreſs from Baldi⯑via; for, as we afterwards heard, Capt. Swan had been at Baldivia to ſeek a Trade there, and he having met Capt Eaton in the Streights of Magellan, the Spaniards of Baldivia were doubtleſs informed of us by him, ſuſpecting him alſo to be one of us, tho' he was not. Upon this News the Vice-roy of Lima ſent Expreſſes to all the Sea Ports, that they might pro⯑vide themſelves againſt our Aſſaults.

We immediately ſteered away for the Iſland Lobos, which lieth in lat. 6 d. 24 m. South lat. (I took the Elevation of it aſhore with an Aſtrolabe) and it is 5 leagues from the Main. It is called Lobos de la Mar, to diſtinguiſh it from another that is not far from it, and extreamly like it, called Lobos de la Terra, for it lies nearer the Main. Lobos, or Lovos, is the Spaniſh Name for a Seal, of which there are great plenty about theſe, and ſeveral other Iſlands in theſe Seas that go by this Name.

The 9th of May we arrived at this Iſle of Lobos de la Mar, and came to an anchor with our Prize. This Lobos conſiſts indeed of two little Iſlands, each a⯑bout a Mile round, of an indifferent heighth, a [97] ſmall Channel between, fit for Boats only; and ſe⯑veral Rocks lying on the North ſide of the Iſlands a little way from ſhoar. There is a ſmall Cove or Sandy-Bay ſheltred from the Winds, at the Weſt end of the Eaſtermoſt Iſland, where Ships may Carreen: The reſt of the ſhoar, as well round the two Iſlands as between them, is a Rocky Coaſt, conſiſting of ſmall Cliffs. Within Land, they are both of them partly Rocky, and partly Sandy, Barren, without any freſh Water, Tree, Shrub, Graſs, or Herbs; or any Land Animals (for the Seals and Sea-Lions come aſhoar here) but Fowls: Of which there are great multitudes; as Boobies, but moſtly Penguins, which I have ſeen plentifully all over the South Seas; on the Coaſt of Newfoundland, and of the Cape of Good Hope. They are a Sea-Fowl, about as big as a Duck, and ſuch Feet; but a ſharp Bill, feeding on Fiſh. They do not fly but flutter, having rather ſtumps like a young Goſlin's, than Wings: And theſe are inſtead of Fins to them in the Water. Their Feathers are Downy. Their fleſh is but ordi⯑nary Food; but their Eggs are good Meat. There is another ſort of ſmall black Fowl, that make holes in the Sand for their Night Habitations, whoſe fleſh is good ſweet meat. I never ſaw any of them but here, and at John Fernando's.

There is good Riding between the Eaſtermoſt Iſland and the Rocks, in ten, twelve, or fourteen Fathom; for the Wind is commonly at S. or S. S. E. and the Eaſtermoſt Iſland lying Eaſt and Weſt, ſhel⯑ters that Road.

Here we ſcrubb'd our Ships, and being in a readi⯑neſs to ſail, the Priſoners were examined, to know if any of them could conduct us to ſome Town where we might make ſome attempt; for they had before informed us, that we were deſcried by the Spaniards, and by that we knew that they would ſend no Riches by Sea ſo long as we were here. Many [98] Towns were conſidered on, as Guiaquil, Zana, Trux⯑illo, and others: At laſt Truxillo was pitched on, as the moſt important; therefore the likelieſt to make us a Voyage if we could conquer it: which we did not much queſtion, though we knew it to be a very populous City. But the greateſt difficulty was in landing; for Guanchaquo, which is the near⯑eſt Sea-port to it, but 6 miles off, is an ill place to Land, ſince ſometimes the very Fiſhermen, that live there, are not able to go in 3 or 4 days. How⯑ever the 17th of May, in the Afternoon, our Men were muſtered of both Ships Companies, and their Arms proved. We were in all 108 Men fit for ſer⯑vice, beſides the ſick: and the next day we intend⯑ed to ſail and take the Wood Prize with us. But the next day one of our Men being aſhoar betimes on the Iſland, deſcried three Sail bound to the North⯑ward; two of them without the Iſland to the Weſt⯑ward, the other between it and the Continent.

We ſoon got our Anchors up and chaſed: and Captain Eaton, who drew the leaſt draught of Wa⯑ter, put through between the Weſtermoſt-Iſland and the Rocks, and went after thoſe two that were with⯑out the Iſlands. We in Captain Cook's Ship went after the other which ſtood in for the Main-Land, but we ſoon fetched her up, and having taken her, ſtood in again with her to the Iſland; for we ſaw that Captain Eaton wanted no help, having taken both thoſe that he went after. He came in with one of his Prizes, but the other was ſo far to Leeward, and ſo deep, that he could not then get her in, but he hoped to get her in the next day: but being deep laden, as deſigned to go down before the wind to Panama, ſhe would not bear ſail.

The 10th day ſhe turned all day, but got nothing nearer the Iſland. Our Moſkito-ſtrikers, according to their cuſtom, went and ſtruck ſix Turtles; for here are indifferent plenty of them. Theſe Ships [99] that we took the day before we came from Guancha⯑quo, all three laden with Flower, bound for Pana⯑ma. Two of them were laden as deep as they could ſwim, the other was not above half laden, but was ordered by the Vice-Roy of Lima to ſail with the other two, or elſe ſhe ſhould not ſail till we were gone out of the Seas; for he hoped they might eſcape us by ſetting out early. In the biggeſt Ship was a Letter to the Preſident of Panama from the Vice-Roy of Lima; aſſuring him, that there were Enemies come into that Sea: for which reaſon he had diſpatched theſe three Ships with Flower, that they might not want; (for Panama is ſupplied from Peru;) and deſired him to be frugal of it, for he knew not when he ſhould ſend more. In this Ship were likewiſe 7 or 8 Tuns of Marmalade of Quinces, and a ſtately Mule ſent to the Preſident, and a very large Image of the Virgin Mary in Wood, carved and painted to adorn a new Church at Panama, and ſent from Lima by the Vice-Roy; for this great Ship came from thence not long before. She brought alſo from Lima 800000 Pieces of Eight, to carry withher to Panama: but while ſhe lay at Guanchaco, taking in her lading of Flower, the Merchants hearing of Capt. Swan's being at Baldivia, order'd the Money aſhoar a⯑gain. Theſe Priſoners likewiſe informed us, that the Gentlemen (Inhabitants of Truxillo) were building a Fort at Guanchaquo (which is the Sea-Port for Truxil⯑lo) cloſe by the Sea, purpoſely to hinder the deſigns of any that ſhould attempt to land there. Upon this news we altered our former reſolutions, and reſol⯑ved to go with our three Prizes to the Gallapagos, which are a great many large Iſlands, lying ſome under the Equator, others on each ſide of it. I ſhall here omit the deſcription of Truxillo, becauſe in my Appendix, at the latter end of the Book, I intend to give a general Relation of moſt of the Towns of note on this Coaſt, from Baldivia to Panama, and from thence towards California.

[100] The 19th day in the evening we ſailed from the Iſland Lobos, with Captain Eaton in our Company. We carried the three Flower Prizes with us, but our firſt Prize Laden with Timber, we left here at an Anchor; the Wind was at S. by E. which is the common Trade-Wind here, and we ſteered away N. W. by N. intending to run into the latitude of the Iſles Gallapagos, and ſteer off Weſt, becauſe we did not know the certain diſtance, and therefore could not ſhape a direct Courſe to them. When we came within 40 minutes of the Equator, we ſteer'd Weſt, having the Wind at South, a very moderate gentle Gale. It was the 31ſt day of May when we firſt had ſight of the Iſlands Gallapagos: Some of them appeared on our Weather-bow, ſome on our Lee-bow, others right a head. We at firſt ſight trimm'd our Sails, and ſteered as nigh the Wind as we could, ſtriving to get to the Southermoſt of them, but our Prizes being deep laden, their Sails but ſmall and thin, and a very ſmall Gale, they could not keep up with us; therefore we likewiſe edged away again, a point from the Wind, to keep near them, and in the evening, the Ship that I was in, and Captain Eaton, Anchored on the Eaſt-ſide of one of the Eaſtermoſt Iſlands a Mile from the ſhoar, in ſixteen fathom Water, clean, white, hard Sand.

The Gallapagos Iſlands are a great Number of un⯑inhabited Iſlands, lying under, and on both ſides of the Equator. The Faſtermoſt of them are about 110 Leagues from the Main. They are laid down in the Longitude of 181, reaching to the Weſtward as far as 176, therefore their Longitude from England Weſtward is about 68 degrees. But I believe our Hy⯑drographers do not place them far enough to the Weſtward. The Spaniards who firſt diſcovered them, and in whoſe draughts alone they are laid down, re⯑port them to be a great number, ſtretching North-Weſt [101] from the Line, as far as 5 degrees N. but we ſaw not above 14 or 15. They are ſome of them 7 or 8 leagues long, and 3 or 4 broad. They are of a good heighth, moſt of them flat and even on the top; 4 or 5 of the Eaſtermoſt are rocky, barren and hilly, producing neither Tree, Herb, nor Graſs, but a few Dildo-trees, except by the Sea ſide. The Dildo-tree is a green prickly Shrub, that grows a⯑bout 10 or 12 foot high, without either Leaf or Fruit. It is as big as a Man's Leg, from the root to the top, and it is full of ſharp prickles, growing in thick rows from top to bottom; this ſhrub is fit for no uſe, not ſo much as to burn. Cloſe by the Sea there grows in ſome places buſhes of Burton Wood, which is very good firing. This ſort of Wood grows in many places in the Weſt-Indies, eſpecially in the Bay of Campeachy, and in the Sambaloes. I did never ſee any in theſe Seas but here. There is Water on theſe barren Iſlands, in Ponds and Holes among the Rocks. Some other of theſe Iſlands are moſtly plain and low, and the Land more fertile, producing Trees of divers ſorts, unknown to us. Some of the Weſtermoſt of theſe Iſlands are nine or ten leagues long, and ſix or ſeven broad; the Mould deep and black. Theſe produce Trees of great and tall bo⯑dies, eſpecially Mammee-trees, which grow here in great Groves. In theſe large Iſlands there are ſome pretty big Rivers; and on many of the other leſſer Iſlands there are Brooks of good Water. The Spa⯑niards when they firſt diſcovered theſe Iſlands, found multitudes of Guanoes, and Land-turtle or Tortoiſe, and named them the Gallapago's Iſlands. I do be⯑lieve there is no place in the World that is ſo plen⯑tifully ſtored with theſe Animals. The Guanoes here are as fat and large as any that ever I ſaw; they are ſo tame, that a Man may knock down twenty in an hours time with a Club. The Land⯑turtle are here ſo numerous, that 5 or 600 men might [102] ſubſiſt on them alone for ſeveral months, without any other ſort of Proviſion: They are extraordinary large and fat; and ſo ſweet, that no Pullet eats more pleaſantly. One of the largeſt of theſe Creatures will weigh 150 or 200 weight, and ſome of them are 2 foot, or 2 foot 6 Inches over the Challapee or Belly. I did never ſee any but at this place, that will weigh above 30 Pound weight. I have heard that at the Iſle of St. Lawrence or Madagaſcar, and at the Engliſh Foreſt, an Iſland near it, called alſo Do [...] Maſcarin, and now poſſeſſed by the French, there are very large ones, but whether ſo big, fat, and ſweet as theſe, I know not. There are 3 or 4 ſorts of theſe Creatures in the Weſt-Indies. One is called by the Spaniards, Hecatee; theſe live moſt in freſh Water⯑ponds, and ſeldom come on Land. They weigh about 10 or 15 pound; they have ſmall Legs and flat Feet, and ſmall long Necks. Another ſort is called Tenapen; theſe are a great deal leſs than the Hecatee; the Shell on their Backs is all carved natu⯑rally, finely wrought, and well clouded: the Backs of theſe are rounder than thoſe before-mentioned; they are otherwiſe much of the ſame form: theſe delight to live in wet ſwampy places, or on the Land near ſuch places. Both theſe ſorts are very good Meat. They are in great plenty on the Iſle of Pines near Cuba: there the Spaniſh Hunters when they meet them in the Woods bring them home to their Huts, and mark them by notching their Shells, then let them go; this they do to have them at hand, for they never ramble far from thence. When theſe Hunters return to Cubo, after about a Month or ſix Weeks ſtay, they carry with them 3 or 400, or more of theſe Creatures to ſell; for they are very good Meat, and every Man knows his own by their Marks. Theſe Tortoiſe in the Gallapago's are more like the Hecatee, except that, as I ſaid before, they are much bigger; and they have very long ſmall [103] necks and little heads. There are ſome green Snakes on theſe Iſlands, but no other Land-Animal that I did ever ſee. There are great plenty of Turtle-Doves ſo tame, that a Man may kill 5 or 6 dozen in a forenoon with a ſtick. They are ſomewhat leſs than a Pigeon, and are very good meat, and commonly fat.

There are good wide Channels between theſe Iſlands fit for Ships to paſs, and in ſome places ſhole water, where there grows plenty of Turtle-graſs; therefore theſe Iſlands are plentifully ſtored with Sea-Turtle, of that ſort which is called the green Turtle. I have hitherto deferred the deſcription of theſe Creatures, therefore I ſhall give it here. There are 4 ſorts of Sea-Turtle, viz. the Trunk-turtle, the Log⯑gerhead, the Hawks-bill, and the Green-Turtle. The Trunk-turtle is commonly bigger than the other, their backs are higher and rounder, and their fleſh rank and not wholſome. The Loggerhead is ſo call'd becauſe it hath a great head, much bigger than the other ſorts; their fleſh is likewiſe very rank, and ſel⯑dom eaten but in caſe of neceſſity: they feed on Moſs that grows about Rocks. The Hawks-bill Tur⯑tle is the leaft kind, they are ſo call'd becauſe their mouths are long and ſmall, ſomewhat reſembling the Bill of a Hawk: On the backs of theſe Hawks-bill Turtle grows that ſhell which is ſo much eſteem'd for making Cabinets, Combs, and other things. The largeſt of them may have three pound and an half of ſhell; I have taken ſome that have had 3 pound 10 Ounces: but they commonly have a pound and half, or two Pound; ſome not ſo much. Theſe are but ordinary food, but generally ſweeter than the Loggerhead: yet theſe Hawks-bills, in ſome places, are unwholſome, cauſing them that eat them to purge and vomit exceſſively, eſpecially thoſe be⯑tween the Sambaloes and Portobel. We meet with other Fiſh in the Weſt-Indies, of the ſame malignant nature: but I ſhall deſcribe them in the Appendix. Theſe Hawks-bill Turtles are better or worſe, accor⯑ding [104] to their feeding. In ſome places they feed on Graſs, as the Green Tortoiſe alſo doth; in other places they keep among Rocks, and feed on Moſs, or Sea-Weeds; but theſe are not ſo ſweet as thoſe that eat Graſs, neither is their Shell ſo clear, for they are commonly over-grown with Barnacles which ſpoils the ſhell; and their Fleſh is commonly yellow, eſpecially the fat.

Hawks-bill Turtle are in many places of the Weſt-Indies. They have Iſlands and places peculiar to themſelves, where they lay their Eggs, and ſeldom come among any other Turtle. Theſe, and all other Turtle, lay Eggs in the Sand; their time of laying is in May, June, July. Some begin ſooner, ſome later. They lay three times in a Seaſon, and at each time 80 or 90 Eggs. Their Eggs are as big as a Hens Egg, and very round, covered only with a white tough ſkin. There are ſome Bays on the Northſide of Jamaica, where theſe Hawks-bills re⯑ſort to lay. In the Bay of Honduras are Iſlands which they likewiſe make their breeding places, and many places along all the Coaſt on the Main of the Weſt-Indies, from Trinidado to La Vera Cruz, in the Bay of Nova Hiſpania. When a Sea-turtle turns out of the Sea to lay, ſhe is at leaſt an hour before ſhe returns again; for ſhe is to go above high water-mark, and if it be low-water when ſhe comes a ſhore, ſhe muſt reſt once or twice, being heavy, before ſhe comes to the place where ſhe lays. When ſhe hath found a place for her purpoſe, ſhe makes a great hole with her Fins in the Sand, wherein ſhe lays her Eggs, then covers them two foot deep with the ſame Sand which ſhe threw out of the hole, and ſo re⯑turns. Sometimes they come up the night before they intend to lay, and take a view of the place, and ſo having made a Tour, or Semicircular March, they return to the Sea again, and they never fail to come aſhoar the next night to lay near that place. [105] All ſorts of Turtle uſe the ſame methods in laying. I knew a Man in Jamaica, that made 8 pound Ster⯑ling of the ſhell of theſe Hawks-bill Turtle, which he got in one Seaſon, and in one ſmall Bay, not half a mile long. The manner of taking them is to watch the Bay, by walking from one part to the other all night; making no noiſe, nor keeping any ſort of light. When the Turtle come aſhoar, the Man that watches for them turns them on their Backs, then hales them above high-water mark, and leave them till the Morning. A large green Turtle, with her weight and ſtruggling, will puzzle two Men to turn her. The Hawks-bill Turtle are not only found in the Weſt-Indies, but on the Coaſt of Guinea, and in the Eaſt-Indies. I never ſaw any in the South-Seas.

The Green Turtle are ſo called, becauſe their Shell is greener than any other. It is very thin and clear, and better clouded than the Hawks-bill; but 'tis uſed only for inlays, being extraordinary thin. Theſe Turtles are generally larger than the Hawks-bill; one will weigh 2 or 3 hundred pound. Their Backs are flatter than the Hawks-bill, their Heads round and ſmall. Green Turtle are the ſweeteſt of all the kinds: But there are degrees of them, both in re⯑ſpect to their Fleſh and their bigneſs. I have ob⯑ſerved, that at Blanco in the Weſt-Indies, the Green Turtle (which is the only kind there) are larger than any other in the North-Seas. There they commonly will weigh 280 or 300 pound: Their Fat is yellow, and the Lean white, and their Fleſh extraordinary ſweet. At Boca Toro, Weſt of Portobel, they are not ſo large, their Fleſh not ſo white, nor the Fat ſo yellow. Thoſe in the Bays of Honduras and Campeachy are ſomewhat ſmaller ſtill; their Fat is green, and the Lean of a darker colour than thoſe at Boca-Toro. I heard of a monſtrous green Turtle once taken at Port-Royal in the Bay of Campeachy, that was four foot deep from the Back to the Belly, [106] and the belly 6 foot broad; Captain Roch's Son, of about 9 or 10 years of age, went in it as in a Boat, on board his Father's Ship, about a quarter of a mile from the ſhore, The Leaves of Fat afforded 8 Gal⯑lons of Oil. The Turtle that live among the Keys, or ſmall Iſlands, on the South-ſide of Cuba, are a mix'd ſort, ſome bigger, ſome leſs; and ſo their Fleſh is of a mix'd colour, ſome green, ſome dark, ſome yellowiſh. With theſe Port-Royal in Jamaica is conſtantly ſupplied, by Sloops that come hither with Nets to take them. They carry them alive to Jamaica, where the Turtles have Wires made with Stakes in the Sea to preſerve them alive; and the Market is every day plentifully ſtored with Turtle, it being the common food there, chiefly for the or⯑dinary ſort of People.

Green Turtle live on Graſs, which grows in the Sea, in 3, 4, 5, or 6 fathom Water, at moſt of the places before-mentioned. This Graſs is different from Manatee-graſs, for that is a ſmall Blade; but this a quarter of an inch broad, and ſix inches long. The Turtle of theſe Iſlands Gallapagos, are a ſort of a baſtard green Turtle, for their Shell is thicker than other green Turtle in the Weſt or Eaſt-Indies, and their Fleſh is not ſo ſweet. They are larger than any other green Turtle; for it is common for theſe to be two or three foot deep, and their Callapees, or Bellies, 5 foot wide: but there are other green Tur⯑tle in the South-Seas that are not ſo big as the ſmal⯑leſt Hawks-bill. Theſe are ſeen at the Iſland Plata, and other places thereabouts: They feed on Moſs, and are very rank, but fat.

Both theſe ſorts are different from any others, for both He's and She's come aſhoar in the day time, and lie in the Sun; but in other places, none but the She's go aſhoar, and that in the night only, to lay their Eggs. The beſt feeding for Turtle in the South Seas is among theſe Gallapago Iſlands, for here is plenty of Graſs.

[107] There is another ſort of green Turtle in the South Seas which are but ſmall, yet pretty ſweet: Theſe lie Weſtward on the Coaſt of Mexico. One thing is very ſtrange and remarkable in theſe Crea⯑tures; that at the breeding time they leave for 2 or 3 Months their common Haunts, where they feed moſt of the Year, and reſort to other places, only to lay their Eggs: and 'tis not thought that they eat any thing during this Seaſon: So that both He's and She's grow very lean; but the He's to that de⯑gree that none will eat them. The moſt remarka⯑ble places that I did ever hear of for their breeding, is at an Iſland in the Weſt-Indies called Caimanes, and the Iſle Aſcention in the Weſtern Ocean: and when the breeding time is paſt, there are none remaining. Doubtleſs they ſwim ſome hundreds of Leagues to come to thoſe two places: For it hath been often obſerved, that at Caimanes, at the breeding time, there are found all thoſe ſorts of Turtle before de⯑ſcribed. The South Keys of Cuba are above 40 leagues from thence, which is the neareſt place that theſe Creatures can come from; and it is moſt certain, that there could not live ſo many there as come here in one Seaſon.

Thoſe that go to lay at Aſcention, muſt needs tra⯑vel much farther, for there is no Land nearer it than 300 Leagues: And it is certain, that theſe Crea⯑tures live always near the Shoar. In the South Sea likewiſe, the Gallapagos is the place where they live the biggeſt part of the year; yet they go from thence at their Seaſon over to the Main, to lay their Eggs; which is 100 Leagues, the neareſt place. Altho' multitudes of theſe Turtle go from their common places of feeding and abode, to thoſe laying places, yet they do not all go: And at the time when the Turtle reſort to theſe places to lay their Eggs, they are accompanied with abundance of Fiſh, eſpecially Sharks; the places which the Turtle then leave be⯑ing [108] at that time deſtitute of Fiſh, which follow the Turtle.

When the She's go thus to their places to lay, the Male accompany them, and never leave them till their return; both Male and Female are fat the be⯑ginning of the Seaſon; but before they return, the Male, as I ſaid, are ſo lean, that they are not fit to eat, but the Female are good to the very laſt; yet not ſo fat as at the beginning of the Seaſon. It is reported of theſe Creatures, that they are nine days engendring, and in the Water; the Male on the Females Back. It is obſervable, that the Male, while engendring, do not eaſily forſake their Fe⯑male: for I have gone and taken hold of the Male when engendring: and a very bad Striker may ſtrike them then, for the Male is not ſhy at all: but the Female ſeeing a Boat, when they riſe to blow, would make her eſcape, but that the Male graſps her with his two fore Fins, and holds her faſt. When they are thus coupled, it is beſt to ſtrike the Female firſt, then you are ſure of the Male alſo. Theſe Creatures are thought to live to a great Age; and it is obſerved by the Jamaica Turtlers, that they are many years before they come to their full growth.

The Air of theſe Iſlands is temperate enough, con⯑ſidering the Clime. Here is conſtantly a freſh Sea⯑breeze all day, and cooling refreſhing Winds in the night: Therefore the heat is not ſo violent here, as in moſt places near the Equator. The time of the year for the Rains is in November, December and January: Then there is oftentimes exceſſive dark tempeſtuous Weather, mixt with much Thunder and Lightning. Sometimes before and after theſe Months there are moderate refreſhing Showers; but in May, June, July and Auguſt, the Weather is al⯑ways very fair.

We ſtaid at one of theſe Iſlands, which lies under the Equator, but one Night, becauſe our Prizes [109] could not get in to an Anchor. We refreſh'd our ſelves very well, both with Land and Sea-Turtles; and the next day we ſailed from thence. The next Iſland of the Gallapagos that we came to, is but two Leagues from this: 'tis rocky and barren like this: it is about five or ſix Leagues long, and four broad. We anchored in the Afternoon, at the North-ſide of the Iſland, a quarter of a Mile from the Shore, in 16 fathom Water. It is ſteep all round this Iſland, and no Anchoring, only at this place. Here it is but ordinary riding; for the Ground is ſo ſteep, that if an Anchor ſtarts it never holds again; and the Wind is commonly off from the Land, except in the Night, when the Land-wind comes more from the Weſt; for there it blows right along the Shore, though but faintly. Here is no Water but in Ponds and Holes of the Rocks. That which we firſt an⯑chored at hath Water on the North-end; falling down in a ſtream from high ſteep Rocks, upon the Sandy Bay, where it may be taken up. As ſoon as we came to an Anchor, we made a Tent aſhoar for Capt. Cook, who was ſick. Here we found the Sea-Turtle lying aſhoar on the Sand; this is not cuſto⯑mary in the Weſt-Indies. We turned them on their Backs that they might not get away. The next day more came up, when we found it to be their cuſtom to lie in the Sun: ſo we never took care to turn them afterwards; but ſent aſhoar the Cook every Morning, who killed as many as ſerved for the day. This cuſtom we obſerved all the time we lay here, feeding ſometimes on Land-Turtle, ſometimes on Sea-Turtle, there being plenty of either ſort. Cap⯑tain Davis came hither again a ſecond time; and then he went to other Iſlands on the Weſt-ſide of theſe. There he found ſuch plenty of Land-Turtle, that he and his Men eat nothing elſe for 3 Months that he ſtaid there. They were ſo fat, that he ſaved ſixty Jars of Oyl out of thoſe that he ſpent: This [110] Oil ſerved inſtead of Butter, to eat with Dough⯑boys or Dumplins, in his return out of theſe Seas. He found very convenient places to Careen, and good Channels between the Iſlands; and very good Anchoring in many places. There he found alſo plenty of Brooks of good freſh Water, and Fire⯑wood enough, there being plenty of Trees fit for many uſes. Capt. Harris, one that we ſhall ſpeak of hereafter, came hither likewiſe, and found ſome Iſlands that had plenty of Mammee-Trees, and pretty large Rivers. The Sea about theſe Iſlands is plenti⯑fully ſtored with Fiſh, ſuch as are at John Fernando's. They are both large and fat, and as plentiful here as at John Fernando's. Here are particularly abun⯑dance of Sharks. The North-part of this ſecond Iſle we anchored at, lies 28 minutes North of the Equa⯑tor. I took the heighth of the Sun with an Aſtrolabe. Theſe Iſles of the Gallapago's have plenty of Salt. We ſtay'd here but 12 days, in which time we put aſhoar 5000 packs of Flower, for a reſerve, if we ſhould have occaſion of any before we left theſe Seas. Here one of our Indian Priſoners informed us that he was born at Ria Lexa, and that he would en⯑gage to carry us thither. He being examin'd of the Strength and Riches of it, ſatisfy'd the Company ſo well, that they were reſolved to go thither.

Having thus concluded, the 12th of June we ſailed from hence, deſigning to touch at the Iſland Cocos, as well to put aſhoar ſome Flower there, as to ſee the Iſland, becauſe it was in our way to Ria Lexa. We ſteer'd North, till in Lat. 4 d. 40 min. intend⯑ing then to ſteer W. by N. for we expected to have had the Wind at S. by E. or S. S. E. as we had on the South-ſide of the Equator. Thus I had for⯑merly found the Winds near the Shore in theſe Lati⯑tudes; but when we firſt parted from the Gallapago's, we had the Wind at S. and as we ſailed farther North, we had the Winds at S. by W. then at [111] S. S. W. Winds which we did not expect. We thought at firſt that the Wind would come about again to the South; but when we came to ſail off Weſt to the Iſland Cocos, we had the Wind at S. W. by S. and could lie but W. by N. Yet we ſtood that Courſe till we were in the lat. 5 d. 40 m. N. and then deſpairing, as the Winds were, to find the Iſland Cocos, we ſteer'd over to the Main; for had we ſeen the Iſland then, we could not have fetcht it, being ſo far to the North of it.

The Iſland Cocos is ſo named by the Spaniards, be⯑cauſe there are abundance of Coco-nut Trees grow⯑ing on it. They are not only in one or two places, but grow in great Groves, all round the Iſland, by the Sea. This is an uninhabited Iſland, it is 7 or 8 leagues round, and pretty high in the middle, where it is deſtitute of Trees, but looks very green and pleaſant, with an Herb called by the Spaniards Gra⯑madael. It is low Land by the Sea-ſide.

This Iſland is in 5 d. 15 m. North of the Equator; it is invironed with Rocks, which makes it almoſt inacceſſible: only at the N. E. end there is a ſmall Harbor where Ships may ſafely enter and ride ſecure. In this Harbor there is a fine Brook of freſh Water running into the Sea. This is the account that the Spaniards give of it, and I had the ſame alſo from Captain Eaton who was there afterward.

Any who, like us, had not experienced the nature of the Winds in theſe parts, might reaſonably expect that we could have ſailed with a flown Sheet to Ria Lexa; but we found our ſelves miſtaken, for as we came nearer the ſhore, we found the Winds right in our Teeth: But I ſhall refer my Reader to the Chap⯑ter of Winds in the Appendix, for a further account of this.

We had very fair weather, and ſmall winds, in this Voyage from the Gallapagos, and at the beginning of July we fell in with Cape Blanco, on the Main of [112] Mexico. This is ſo called from two white Rocks ly⯑ing off it. When weare off at Sea, right againſt the Cape, they appear as part of the Cape; but being near the ſhoar, either to the Eaſtward or Weſt-ward of the Cape, they appear like two Ships under ſail at firſt view, but coming nearer, they are like two high Towers; they being ſmall, high, and ſteep on all ſides, and they are about half a mile from the Cape. This Cape is in lat. 9 d. 56 m. It is about the heighth of Beachy-head in England, on the Coaſt of Suſſex. It is a full Point, with ſteep Rocks to the Sea. The top of it is flat and even for about a mile: then it gradually falls away on each ſide with a gentle deſcent. It appears very pleaſant, being co⯑vered with great lofty Trees. From the Cape on the N. W. ſide the Land runs in N. E. for about 4 leagues, making a ſmall Bay called by the Spaniards Caldera. A league within Cape Blanco, on the N. W. ſide of it, and at the entrance of this Bay, there is a ſmall Brook of very good water running into the Sea. Here the Land is low, making a ſaddling between 2 ſmall Hills. It is very rich Land; producing large tall Trees of many ſorts; the Mould is black and deep, which I have always taken notice of to be a fat Soil. About a mile from this Brook, towards the N. E. the Woodland terminates. Here the Savan⯑nah Land begins, and runs ſome Leagues into the Country, making many ſmall Hills and Dales. Theſe Savannahs are not altogether clear of Trees, but are here and there ſprinkled with ſmall Groves, which render them very delightful. The Graſs which grows here is very kindly, thick, and long; I have ſeen none better in the Weſt-Indies. Toward the bottom of the Bay, the Land by the Sea is low and full of Mangroves, but farther in the Country the Land is high and mountainous. The Mountains are part Woodland, part Savannah. The Trees in thoſe Woods are but ſmall and ſhort; and the [113] Mountain Savannahs are cloathed but with indiffe⯑rent Graſs. From the bottom of this Bay, it is but 14 or 15 leagues, to the Lake of Nicaragua on the North-Sea Coaſt: the way between is ſomewhat Mountainous, but moſt Savannah.

Capt. Cook, who was taken ſick at John Fernan⯑doe's, continued ſo till we came within 2 or 3 leagues of Cape Blanco, and then died of a ſudden; tho' he ſeemed that morning to be as likely to live, as he had been ſome weeks before; but it is uſual with ſick Men coming from the Sea, where they have nothing but the Sea-Air, to die off as ſoon as ever they come within the view of the Land. About 4 hours after we all came to an Anchor, (namely the Ship that I was in, Captain Eaton, and the great Meal Prize,) a league within the Cape, right a⯑gainſt the Brook of Freſh-water, in 14 fathom clean hard Sand. Preſently after we came to an Anchor, Capt. Cook was carried aſhoar to be buried; 12 Men carried there Arms to Guard thoſe that were ordered to dig the Grave: for although we ſaw no appearance of Inhabitants, yet we did not know but the Country might be thick inhabited. And before Capt. Cook was interr'd, 3 Spaniſh Indians came to the place where our Men were digging the Grave, and demanded what they were, and from whence they came? to whom our Men an⯑ſwered, They came from Lima, and were bound to Ria Lexa, but that the Capt. of one of the Ships dying at Sea, oblig'd them to come into this place to give him Chriſtian burial. The 3 Spaniſh Indians, who were very ſhy at firſt, began to be more bold, and drawing nearer, asked many ſilly Queſtions; and our Men did not ſtick to ſooth them up with as many Falſhoods, purpoſely to draw them into their clutches. Our Men often laught at their temerity; and asked them if they never ſaw any Spaniards be⯑fore? They told them, that they themſelves were [114] Spaniards, and that they lived among Spaniards, and that altho' they were born there, yet they had never ſeen 3 Ships there before: Our Men told them, that neither now might they have ſeen ſo many, if it had not been on an urgent occaſion. At length they drill'd them by diſcourſe ſo near, that our Men lay'd hold on all three at once; but before Captain Cook was buried, one of them made his eſcape, the other two were brought off aboard our Ship. Cap⯑tain Eaton immediately came aboard and examined them; they confeſſed that they came purpoſely to view our Ship, and if poſſible to inform themſelves what we were; for the Preſident of Panama not long before, ſent a Letter of advice to Nicoya, in⯑forming the Magiſtrates thereof, that ſome Enemies were come into theſe Seas, and that therefore it behoved them to be careful of themſelves. Nicoya is a ſmall Mulatto Town, about 12 or 14 leagues Eaſt from hence, ſtanding on the Banks of a River of that name. It is a place very fit for building Ships, therefore moſt of the Inhabitants are Carpenters; who are commonly imployed in building new, or repairing old Ships. It was here that Capt. Sharp (juſt after I left him, in the Year 1681.) got Car⯑penters to ſix his Ship, before he returned for Eng⯑land: and for that reaſon it behoved the Spaniards to be careful, (according to the Governor of Panama's advice,) leſt any Men at other times wanting ſuch neceſſaries as that place afforded, might again be ſupplied there. Theſe Spaniſh Indians told us likewiſe, that they were ſent to the place where they were taken, in order to view our Ships, as fearing theſe were thoſe mentioned by the Preſident of Panama: It being demanded of them to give an account of the Eſtate and Riches of the Country, they ſaid that the Inhabitants were moſt Huſbandmen, who were imployed either in Planting and Manuring of Corn, or chiefly about Cattle; they having large Savan⯑nahs, [115] which were well ſtored with Bulls, Cows and Horſes; that by the Sea-ſide, in ſome places there grew ſome Red-wood, uſeful in Dying; of this they ſaid there was little profit made, becauſe they were forc'd to ſend it to the Lake of Nicaragua, which runs into the North Seas: That they ſent thither alſo great quantities of Bull and Cow Hides, and brought from thence in Exchange Europe Com⯑modities; as Hats, Linnen and Wollen, where⯑with they cloathed themſelves; that the Fleſh of the Cattle turned to no other profit than Suſtenance for their Families: As for Butter and Cheeſe they make but little in thoſe parts. After they had gi⯑ven this Relation, they told us, that if we wanted Proviſion, there was a Beef-Eſtantion, or Farm of Bulls or Cows about 3 mile off, where we might kill what we pleaſed. This was welcome News, for we had no ſort of Fleſh ſince we left the Gallapagos; therefore 24 of us immediately entered into two Boats, taking one of theſe Spaniſh Indians with us for a Pilot, and went aſhore about a league from the Ship. There we haled up our Boats dry, and marched all away, following our Guide, who ſoon brought us to ſome Houſes, and a large Penn for Cattle. This Penn ſtood in a large Savannah, about two Mile from our Boats: There were a great many fat Bulls and Cows feeding in the Savannahs; ſome of us would have kill'd 3 or 4 to carry on board, but others oppoſed it, and ſaid, It was better to ſtay all Night, and in the Morning drive the Cattle into the Penn, and then kill 20 or 30, or as many as we pleaſed. I was minded to return aboard, and endeavoured to perſwade them all to go with me, but ſome would not, therefore I returned with 12, which was half, and left the other 12 behind. At this place I ſaw 3 or 4 Tun of the Red-wood; which I take to be that ſort of Wood, call'd in Ja⯑maica Blood-wood, or Nicaragua-wood. We who [116] returned abroad, met no one to oppoſe us, and the next day we expected our Conſorts that we left a⯑ſhore, but none came; therefore at 4 a Clock in the Afternoon, 10 Men went in our Canoa to ſee what was become of them: When they came to the Bay where we landed, to go to the Eſtantion, they found our Men all on a ſmall Rock, half a mile from the ſhore, ſtanding in the Water up to their Waſtes. Theſe Men had ſlept aſhore in the Houſe and turned out betimes in the Morning to pen the Cattle: 2 or 3 went one way, and as many another way, to get the Cattle to the Pen, and others ſtood at the Pen to drive them in. When they were thus ſcatter'd, about 40 or 50 armed Spaniards came in among them: Our Men immediately called to each other, and drew together in a Body before the Spa⯑niards could attack them; and marched to their Boat, which was hal'd up dry on the Sand. But when they came to the ſandy Bay, they found their Boat all in Flames. This was a very unpleaſing ſight, for they knew not how to get Aboard, unleſs they marched by Land to the place where Capt. Cook was buried, which was near a league. The greateſt part of the way was thick Woods, where the Spa⯑niards might eaſily lay an Ambuſh for them, at which they are very expert. On the other ſide, the Spani⯑ards now thought them ſecure; and therefore came to them, and asked them if they would be pleaſed to walk to their Plantations, with many other ſuch flouts; but our Men anſwered never a word. It was about half ebb, when one of our Men took no⯑tice of a Rock a good diſtance from the ſhore, juſt appearing above Water; he ſhewed it to his Con⯑ſorts, and told them it would be a good Caſtle for them if they could get thither. They all wiſht themſelves there; for the Spaniards, who lay as yet at a good diſtance from them behind the Buſhes, as ſecure of their Prey, began to whiſtle now and then [117] a ſhot among them. Having therefore well conſi⯑dered the place, together with the danger they were in, they propoſed to ſend one of the talleſt Men to try if the Sea between them and the Rock were fordable. This Counſel they preſently put in execu⯑tion, and found it according to their deſire. So they all marched over to the Rock, where they remained till the Canoa came to them; which was about 7 Hours. It was the latter part of the Ebb when they firſt went over, and then the Rock was dry; but when the Tide of Flood returned again, the Rock was covered, and the Water ſtill flowing; ſo that if our Canoa had ſtayed but one hour longer, they might have been in as great danger of their lives from the Sea, as before from the Spaniards; for the Tide riſeth here about 8 foot. The Spaniards remained on the ſhore, expecting to ſee them de⯑ſtroyed, but never came from behind the Buſhes, where they firſt planted themſelves; they having not above 3 or 4 Hand-guns, the reſt of them being armed with Lances. The Spaniards in theſe parts are very expert in heaving or darting the Lance; with which, upon occaſion, they will do great Feats, eſpecially in Ambuſcades: And by their good Will, they care not for fighting otherwiſe, but content themſelves with ſtanding a loof, threatning and cal⯑ling Names, at which they are as expert as the other; ſo that if their Tongues be quiet, we always take it for granted they have ſaid ſome Ambuſh. Before night our Canoa came Aboard, and brought our Men all ſafe. The next day two Canoas were ſent to the bottom of the Bay to ſeek ſor a large Canoa, which we were informed was there. The Spaniards have neither Ships nor Barks here, and but a few Canoas which they ſeldom uſe: Neither are there any Fiſhermen here, as I judge, becauſe Fiſh is very ſcarce; for I never ſaw any here, neither could any of our Men ever take any; and yet where-ever [118] we come to an Anchor, we always ſend out our Strikers, and put our Hooks and Lines over⯑board, to try for Fiſh. The next day our Men re⯑turned out of the Bay, and brought the Canoa with them, which they were ſent for, and 3 or 4 days afterwards the 2 Canoas were ſent out again for ano⯑ther, which they likewiſe brought aboard. Theſe Canoas were fitted with Thoats or Benhces, Straps and Oars, fit for ſervice; and one of theſe Capt. Eaton had for his ſhare, and we the other, which we ſixt for landing Men when occaſion required. While we lay here, we filled our Water, and cut a great many Looms, or Handles, or Staves for Oars; for here is plenty of Lance-wood, which is moſt proper for that uſe. I never ſaw any in the South Seas, but in this place: There is plenty of it in Jamaica, eſpe⯑cially at a place called Blewfields (not Blewfields Ri⯑ver which is on the Main) near the Weſt-end of that Iſland. The Lance-wood grows ſtrait like our young Aſhes; it is very hard, tough and heavy, therefore Privateers eſteem it very much, not only to make Looms for Oars, but Scouring-Rods for their Guns; for they have ſeldom leſs than 3 or 4 ſpare Rods for fear one ſhould break, and they are much better than Rods made of Aſh.

The Day before we went from hence, Mr. Edward Davis, the Company's Quarter-Maſter, was made Captain by conſent of all the Company; for it was his place by Succeſſion. The 20th day of July we ſailed from this Bay of Caldera, with Capt. Eaton, and our Prize which we brought from Gallapagos in Company, directing our Courſe for Ria Lexa. The Wind was at North, which altho' but an ordinary Wind, yet carried us in three days abreſt of our in⯑tended Port.

Ria Lexa is the moſt remarkable Land on all this Coaſt, for there is a high pecked burning Moun⯑tain, called by the Spaniards Volcan-Vejo, or the Old [119] Volcan. This muſt be brought to bear N. E. then ſteer in directly with the Mountain, and that courſe will bring you to the Harbour. The Sea winds are here at S. S. W. therefore Ships that come hither muſt take the Sea-winds, for there is no going in with the Land-wind. The Volcan may be eaſily known, becauſe there is not any other ſo high a Mountain near it, neither is there any that appears in the like form all along the Coaſt; beſides it ſmoaks all the day, and in the night it ſometimes ſends forth flames of Fire. This Mountain may be ſeen 20 leagues: being within 3 leagues of the Harbor, the entrance into it may be ſeen; there is a ſmall flat low Iſland which makes the Harbor, it is about a mile long, and a quarter of a mile broad, and is from the Main about a mile and a half. There is a Channel at each end of the Iſland, the weſt Channel is the wideſt and ſafeſt, yet at the N. W. point of the Iſland there is a ſhole which Ships muſt take heed of going in. Being paſt that ſhole, you muſt keep cloſe to the Iſland, for there is a whole ſandy point ſtrikes over from the Main almoſt half way. The Eaſt Channel is not ſo wide, beſides there runs a ſtronger Tide; therefore Ships ſeldom or never go in that way. This Harbor is capable of recei⯑ving 200 Sail of Ships; the beſt riding is near the Main, where there is 7 or 8 fathom water, clean hard Sand.

Ria Lexa Town is 2 leagues from hence, and there are 2 Creeks that run towards it; the Weſter⯑moſt comes near the backſide of the Town, the o⯑ther runs up to the Town, but neither Ships nor Barks can go ſo far. Theſe Creeks are very narrow, and the Land on each ſide drowned and full of red Mangrove-trees. About a mile and half below the Town, on the banks of the Eaſt Creek, the Spani⯑ards had caſt up a ſtrong Breaſt-work; it was like⯑wiſe reported they had another on the Weſt Creek, [120] both ſo advantageouſly placed, that 10 Men might with eaſe keep 200 Men from landing. I ſhall give a deſcription of the Town in my return hither, and therefore forbear to do it here. Wherefore to reſume the thread of our courſe, we were now in ſight of the Volcan, being by eſtimation 7 or 8 leagues from the ſhoar, and the Mountain bearing N. E. we took in our Topſails and hal'd up our Courſes, intending to go with our Canoas into the Harbor in the night. In the Evening we had a very hard Tornado, out of the N. E. with much Thunder, Lightning and Rain. The violence of the Wind did not laſt long, yet it was a 11 a clock at night before we got out our Canoas, and then it was quite calm. We rowed in directly for the ſhoar, and thought to have reach'd it before day, but it was 9 a Clock in the Morning before we got into the Harbor. When we came with⯑in a league of the Iſland of Ria Lexa, that makes the Harbor, we ſaw a Houſe on it, and coming nearer we ſaw 2 or 3 Men, who ſtood and looked on us till we came within half a mile of the Iſland, then they went into their Canoa, which lay on the in⯑ſide of the Iſland, and rowed towards the Main; but we overtook them before they got over, and brought them back again to the Iſland. There was a Horſeman right againſt us on the Main when we took the Canoa, who immediately rode away towards the Town as faſt as he could. The reſt of our Canoas rowed heavily, and did not come to the Iſland till 12 a clock, therefore we were forced to ſtay for them. Before they came we examined the Priſoners, who told us, that they were ſet there to watch; for the Governor of Ria Lexa received a Letter about a month before, wherein he was adviſed of ſome Enemies come into the Sea, and therefore admo⯑niſhed to be careful; that, immediately there⯑upon the Governor had cauſed a Houſe to be built on this Iſland, and ordered 4 Men to be continually [121] [...] [120] [...] [121] there to watch Night and Day, and if they ſaw any Ship coming thither they were to give notice of it. They ſaid they did not expect to ſee Boats or Ca⯑noas, but lookt out for a Ship. At firſt they took us in our advanced Canoa to be ſome Men that had been caſt away and loſt our Ship; till ſeeing 3 or 4 Canoas more, they began to ſuſpect what we were. They told us likewiſe, that the Horſeman which we ſaw, did come to them every Morning, and that in leſs than an Hours time he could be at the Town. When Captain Eaton and his Canoas came aſhoar, we told them what had hapned. It was now three Hours ſince the Horſeman rode away, and we could not expect to get to the Town in leſs than two Hours; in which time the Governour having notice of our coming, might be provided to receive us at his Breaſt-Works; therefore we thought it beſt to defer this Deſign till another time.

There is a fine Spring of freſh Water on the Iſland, there are ſome Trees alſo, but the biggeſt part is Savannah, whereon is good Graſs, though there is no ſort of Beaſt to eat it. This Iſland is in lat. 12 d. 10 m. North. Here we ſtayed till 4 a clock in the After⯑noon; then our Ships being come within a League of the ſhoar, we all went on board, and ſteered for the Gulf of Amapalla, intending there to careen our Ships.

The 26th of July Captain Eaton came aboard our Ship, to conſult with Captain Davis, how to get ſome Indians to aſſiſt us in careening: It was con⯑cluded, that when we came near the Gulf, Captain Davis ſhould take two Canoas, well mann'd, and go before, and Captain Eaton ſhould ſtay aboard. According to this Agreement, Captain Davis went away for the Gulf the next day.

The Gulf of Amapalla is a great Arm of the Sea, running 8 or 10 Leagues into the Country. It is bounded on the South-ſide of its Entrance with [122] Point Caſivina, and on the N. W. ſide with St. Mi⯑chael's Mount. Both theſe place are very remarka⯑ble: Point Caſivina is in lat. 12 d. 40 m. North: it is a high round Point, which at Sea appears like an Iſland; becauſe the Land within it is very low. St. Michael's Mount is a very high peeked Hill, not very ſteep: the Land at the foot of it on the S. E. ſide, is low and even, for at leaſt a mile. From this low Land the Gulf of Amapalla enters on that ſide. Between this low Land and Point Caſivina, there are two conſiderable high Iſlands; the South⯑ermoſt is called Mangera, the other is called Ama⯑palla, and they are two miles aſunder.

Mangera is a high round Iſland, about 2 leagues in compaſs, appearing like a tall Grove. It is in⯑vironed with Rocks all round, only a ſmall Cove, or ſandy Bay on the N. E. ſide. The Mold and Soil of this Iſland is black, but not deep; it is mixt with Stones, yet very productive of large tall Tim⯑ber Trees. In the middle of the Iſland there is an Indian Town, and a fair Spaniſh Church. The In⯑dians have Plantations of Maiz round the Town and ſome Plantains: They have a few Cocks and Hens, but no other ſort of tame Fowl; neithe [...] have they any ſort of Beaſt, but Cats and Dogs [...] There is a path from the Town to the ſandy Bay [...] but the way is ſteep and rocky. At this ſandy Bay [...] there are always 10 or 12 Canoas lie haled up dry [...] except when they are in uſe.

Amapalla is a larger Iſland than Mangera; th [...] Soil much the ſame. There are two Towns on i [...] about two Miles aſunder; one on the North-ſid [...] the other on the Eaſt-ſide: That on the Eaſt-ſid [...] is not above a mile from the Sea; it ſtands on [...] Plain on the top of a Hill, the Path to it ſo ſtee [...] and rocky, that a few Men might keep down [...] great number, only with Stones. There is a ve [...] fair Church ſtanding in the midſt of the Tow [...] [123] The other Town is not ſo big, yet it has a good handſom Church. One thing I have obſerved in all the Indians Towns under the Spaniſh Government, as well in theſe parts as in the Bay of Campeachy, and elſewhere, that the Images of the Virgin Mary and other Saints, (with which all their Churches were filled) are ſtill painted in an Indian Complexion, and partly in that Dreſs; but in thoſe Towns which are inhabited chiefly by Spaniards, the Saints alſo con⯑form themſelves to the Spaniſh Garb and Complexion. The Houſes here are but mean; the Indians of both Plains have good Field Maiz, remote from the Town: they have but few Plantains, but they have abundance of large Hog-Plumb-trees, growing about their Houſes. The Tree that bears this Fruit is as big as our largeſt Plumb-tree: The Leaf is of a dark green colour, and as broad as the Leaf of a Plumb-tree; but they are ſhaped like the Haw-thorn Leaf. The Trees are very brittle Wood. The Fruit is oval, and as big as a ſmall Horſe Plumb. It is at firſt very green, but when it is ripe, one ſide is yellow, the other red. It hath a great ſtone, and but little ſubſtance about it: The Fruit is pleaſant enough; but I do not remember that ever I ſaw one through⯑ly ripe, that had not a Maggot or two in it. I do not remember that I did ever ſee any of this Fruit in the South Seas, but at this place. In the Bay of Campeachy they are very plentiful, and in Jamaica they plant them to fence their Ground. Theſe Indians have alſo ſome Fowls, as thoſe at Mangera: No Spaniards dwell among them, but only one Padre or Prieſt, who ſerves for all three Town; theſe two at Amapalla, and that at Mangera. They are under the Governour of the Town of St. Mi⯑chael's at the foot of St. Michael [...]s Mount, to whom they pay their Tribute in Maiz; being extreamly poor, yet very contented. They have nothing to make Money of, but their Plantations of Maiz and [124] their Fowls; the Padre or Fryer hath his Tenths of it, and knows to a Peck how much every Man hath, and how many Fowls, of which they dare not kill one, tho' they are ſick, without leave from him. There was (as I ſaid) never another white Man on theſe Iſlands, but the Fryer. He could ſpeak the Indian Language, as all Fryers muſt that live among them. In this vaſt Country of America there are di⯑vers Nations of Indians, different in their Language, therefore thoſe Fryers that are minded to live among any Nations of Indians, muſt learn the Language of thoſe People they propoſe to teach. Although theſe here are but poor, yet the Indians in many other places have great Riches, which the Spaniards draw from them for Trifles: In ſuch places the Fry⯑ers get plentiful Incoms; as particularly in the Bay of Campeachy, where the Indians have large Cacao⯑walks; or in other Places where they plant Cocho⯑neel Trees, or Silveſter-Trees; or where they gather Vinelloes, and in ſuch places where they gather Gold. In ſuch places as theſe, the Fryers do get a great deal of Wealth. There was but one of all the Indians on both theſe Iſlands that could ſpeak Spa⯑niſh; he could write Spaniſh alſo, being bred up pur⯑poſely to keep their Regiſters and Books of Account: He was Secretary to both Iſlands. They had a Coſica too, (a ſmall ſort of Magiſtrate the Indians have a⯑mongſt themſelves) but he could neither write nor ſpeak Spaniſh.

There are a great many more Iſlands in this Bay, but none inhabited as theſe. There is one pretty large Iſland, belonging to a Nunnery, as the Indians told us, this was ſtocked with Bulls and Cows, there were 3 or 4 Indians lived there to look after the Cattle, for the ſake of which we often fre⯑quented this Iſland, while we lay in the Bay; they are all low Iſlands, except Amapalla and Mangera. There are two Channels to come into this Gulph, [125] one between Point Caſivina and Mangera, the other between Mangera and Amapalla: The latter is the beſt. The Riding place is on the Eaſt-ſide of Ama⯑palla, right againſt a ſpot of low Ground; for all the Iſland except this one place is high Land. Run⯑ning in farther, Ships may anchor near the Main, on the N. E. ſide of the Iſland Amapalla. This is the place moſt frequented by Spaniards: It is called the Port of Martin Lopez. This Gulph or Lake runs in ſome Leagues beyond all the Iſlands; but it is ſhole Water, and not capable of Ships.

It was into this Gulph that Capt. Davis was gone with the two Canoas, to endeavour for a Priſoner, to gain intelligence, if poſſible, before our Ships came in: He came the firſt Night to Mangera, but for want of a Pilot, did not know where to look for the Town. In the Morning he found a great many Canoas haled up on the Bay; and from that Bay found a Path which led him and his Company to the Town. The Indians ſaw our Ships in the Evening coming towards the Iſland, and being before inform⯑ed of Enemies in the Sea, they kept Scouts out all Night for fear; who ſeeing Captain Davis coming, run into the Town, and alarmed all the People. When Captain Davis came thither, they all run in⯑to the Woods. The Fryer happened to be there at this time; who being unable to ramble into the Woods, fell into Capt. Davis's Hands: There were two Indian Boys with him, who were likewiſe ta⯑ken. Captain Davis went only to get a Priſoner, therefore was well ſatisfied with the Fryer, and im⯑mediately came down to the Sea-ſide. He went from thence to the Iſland Amapalla, carrying the Fryer and the two Indian Boys with him. Theſe were his Pilots to conduct him to the Landing place, where they arrived about Noon. They made no ſtay here, but left 3 or 4 Men to look after the Canoas, and Captain Davis with the reſt marched to [126] the Town, taking the Fryer with them. The Town, as is before noted, is about a Mile from the Land⯑ing-place, ſtanding in a Plain on the top of a Hill, having a very ſteep aſcent to go to it. All the Indians ſtood on the top of the Hill waiting Capt. Davis's coming.

The Secretary, mention'd before, had no great kindneſs for the Spaniards It was he that perſwaded the Indians to wait Captain Davis his coming; for they were all running into the Woods; but he told them, that if any of the Spaniards Enemies came thither, it was not to hurt them, but the Spaniards, whoſe Slaves they were; and that their Poverty would protect them. This Man with the Caſica ſtood more forward than the reſt, at the Bank of the Hill, when Captain Davis with his Company appeared beneath. They called out therefore in Spaniſh, de⯑manding of our Men, What they were, and from whence they came? To whom Capt. Davis and his Men replied, They were Biſcayers, and that they were ſent thither by the King of Spain to clear thoſe Seas from Enemies; that their Ships were com⯑ing into the Gulf to careen, and that they came thi⯑ther before the Ships, to ſeek a convenient place fo [...] it, as alſo to deſire the Indians Aſſiſtance. The Se⯑cretary, who, as I ſaid before, was the only Ma [...] that could ſpeak Spaniſh, told them that they we [...] welcome, for he had a great reſpect for any O [...] Spain Men, eſpecially for the Biſcayers, of whom [...] had heard a very honourable Report; therefore [...] deſired them to come up to their Town. Captai [...] Davis and his Men immediately aſcended the Hil [...] the Fryer going before; and they were receiv [...] with a great deal of Affection by the Indians. T [...] Caſica and Secretary embraced Captain Davis, a [...] the other Indians received his Men with the [...] Ceremony. Theſe Salutations being ended, they [...] marched towards the Church, for that is the place [...] [127] all publick Meetings, and all Plays and Paſtimes are acted there alſo, therefore in the Churches belong⯑ing to Indian Towns they have all ſorts of Vizards, and ſtrange antick Dreſſes both for Men and Wo⯑men, and abundance of Muſical Hautboys and Strumſtrums. The Strumſtrum is made ſomewhat like a Cittern; moſt of thoſe that the Indians uſe are made of a large Goad cut in the midſt, and a thin Board laid over the hollow, and which is faſtned to the Sides: this ſerves for the Belly; over which the Strings are placed. The Nights before any Holidays, or the Nights enſuing, are the times when they all meet to make merry. Their Mirth conſiſts in ſing⯑ing, dancing, and ſporting in thoſe antick Habits, and uſing as many antick Geſtures. If the Moon ſhine they uſe but few Torches, if not, the Church is full of Light. They meet at theſe times all ſorts of both Sexes. All the Indians that I have been acquainted with who are under the Spaniards, ſeem to be more me⯑lancholy than other Indians that are free; and at theſe publick Meetings, when they are in the greateſt of their Jollity, their Mirth ſeems to be rather forced than real. Their Songs are very melancholy and doleful; ſo is their Muck: but whether it be natu⯑ral to the Indians to be thus melancholy, or the ef⯑fect of their Slavery, I am not certain: But I have always been prone to believe, that they are then only condoling their Misfortunes, the loſs of their Country and Liberties: which altho' theſe that are now living do not know, nor remember what it was to be free, yet there ſeems to be a deep Impreſſion in their thoughts of the Slavery which the Spaniards have brought them under, increas'd probably by ſome Traditions of their ancient Freedom.

Capt. Davis intended when they were all in the Church to ſhut the Doors, and then make a bargain with them, letting them know what he was, and ſo draw them afterwards by fair means to our aſſiſtance: [128] the Fryer being with him, who had alſo promis'd to engage them to it: but before they were all in the Church, one of Capt. Davis his Men puſht one of the Indians to haſten him into the Church. The Indian immediately ran away, and all the reſt taking the alarm, ſprang out of the Church like Deer; it was hard to ſay which was firſt; and Captain Da⯑vis, who knew nothing of what hapned, was left in the Church only with the Fryer. When they were all fled, Captain Davis his Men fir'd and kill'd the Secretary; and thus our Hopes periſhed by the Indiſcretion of one fooliſh Fellow.

In the Afternoon the Ships came into the Gulf between Point Caſivina and Mangera, and anchored near the Iſland Amapalla, on the Eaſt-ſide, in ten Fa⯑thom Water, clean hard Sand. In the Evening Cap⯑tain Davis and his Company came aboard, and brought the Fryer with them; who told Captain Davis, that if the Secretary had not been kill'd, he could have ſent him a Letter by one of the Indians that was taken at Mangera, and perſwaded him to come to us; but now the only way was to ſend one of thoſe Indians to ſeek the Caſica, and that himſelf would inſtruct him what to ſay, and did not que⯑ſtion but the Caſica would come in on his word. The next Day we ſent aſhoar one of the Indians, who before Night returned with the Caſica and 6 other Indians, who remained with us all the time that we ſtaid here. Theſe Indians did us good ſervice; eſpe⯑cially in piloting us to an Iſland where we kill'd Beef whenever we wanted; and for this their Ser⯑vice we ſatisfied them to their Hearts content. It was at this Iſland Amapalla, that a party of Engliſh men and French men came afterwards, and ſtay'd a great while, and at laſt landed on the Main, and marched over Land to the Cape River, which diſembogues in⯑to the North Seas near Cape Gratia Dios, and is therefore called the Cape River: Near the Head of [129] this River they made Bark-logs (which I ſhall de⯑ſcribe in the next Chapter) and ſo went into the North Seas. This was the way that Captain Sharp had propoſed to go if he had been put to it; for this way was partly known to Privateers by the diſ⯑covery that was made into the Country about 30 Years ſince, by a Party of Engliſh Men that went up that River in Canoas, about as far as the place where theſe French Men made their Bark-logs: there they landed and marched to a Town called Segovia in the Country. They were near a Month getting up the River, for there were many Cataracts, where they were often forced to leave the River, and hale their Canoas a ſhoar over the Land, till they were paſt the Cataracts, and then launched their Canoas again into the River. I have diſcourſed ſeveral Men that were in that Expedition, and if I miſtake not, Captain Sharp was one of them. But to return to our Voyage in hand; when both our Ships were clean, and our Water filled, Captain Davis and Captain Eaton broke off Conſortſhips. Captain Ea⯑ton took aboard of his Ships 400 Packs of Flower, and ſailed out of the Gulf the ſecond day of Sep⯑tember.

CHAP. VI.

THE third day of September, 1684. we ſent the Frier aſhoar, and left the Indians in poſſeſſion of the Prize which we brought in hither, though ſhe was ſtill half laden with Flower, and we ſailed out with the Land Wind, paſſing between Amapalla [131] and Mangera. When we were a league out, we ſaw a Canoa coming with Sail and Oars after us; there⯑fore we ſhortned Sail and ſtaid for her. She was a Canoa ſent by the Governor of St. Michael's Town to our Captain, deſiring him not to carry away the Frier. The Meſſenger being told, that the Frier was ſet aſhoar again at Amapalla, he returned with joy, and we made Sail again, having the Wind at W. N. W. We ſteered towards the Coaſt of Peru; we had Tornadoes every day till we made Cape St. Franciſco, which from June to November are very common on theſe Coaſts; and we had with the Tornadoes wery much Thunder, Lightning and Rain. When the Tornadoes were over, the Winds, which while they laſted, was moſt from the South Eaſt, came about again to the Weſt, and never failed us till we were in ſight of Cape St. Franciſco, where we found the Wind at South with fair Weather. This Cape is in lat. 0 1 d. 00 North, it is a high Bluff, or full point of Land, cloathed with tall great Trees. Paſſing by this Point, coming from the North, you will ſee a ſmall low point, which you might ſuppoſe to be the Cape; but you are then paſt it, and preſently afterwards it appears with three points. The Land in the Country, within this Cape, is very high, and the Mountains commonly appear very black. When we came in with this Cape, we overtook Captain Ea⯑ton, plying under the ſhoar: he in his paſſage from Amapalla, while he was on that Coaſt, met with ſuch terrible Tornadoes of Thunder and Lightning, that as he and all his Men related, they had never met with the like in any place. They were very much af⯑frightned by them, the Air ſmelling very much of Sulphur, and they apprehending themſelves in great danger of being burnt by the Lightning. He touch'd at the Iſland Cocos, and put aſhoar 200 Packs of Flower there, and loaded his Boat with Coco-Nuts, and took in freſh Water. In the evening we ſepa⯑rated [132] again from Captain Eaton; for he ſtood off to Sea, and we plied up under the ſhoar, making our beſt advantage both of Sea and Land Winds. The Sea Winds are here at South, the Land Winds at S. S. E. but ſome times when we came abreſt of a River we ſhould have the Wind at S. E.

The 20th day of September we came to the Iſland Plata, and anchored in 16 fathom. We had very good weather from the time that we fell in with Cape St. Franciſco; and were now fallen in again with the ſame places from whence I begin the ac⯑count of this Voyage in the firſt Capter, having now compaſs'd in the whole Continent of the South America.

The Iſland Plata, as ſome report, was ſo named by the Spaniards, after Sir Francis Drake took the Cacafoga, a Ship chiefly laden with Plate, which they ſay he brought hither, and divided it here with his Men. It is about 4 mile long, and a mile and half broad, and of a good heighth. It is bounded with high ſteep Cliffs clear round, only at one place on the Eaſt-ſide. The top of it is flat and even, the Soil ſandy and dry: The Trees it produceth are but ſmall bodied, low, and grow thin; and there are only 3 or 4 ſorts of Trees, all unknown to us. I obſerved they were much over-grown with long Moſs. There is good Graſs, eſpecially in the be⯑ginning of the Year. There is no Water on this Iſland but at one place on the Eaſt-ſide, cloſe by the Sea; there it drills ſlowly down from the Rocks, where it may be received into Veſſels. There was plenty of Goats, but they are now all deſtroyed. There is no other ſort of Land Animal that I did ever ſee: here are plenty of Boobies and Men of War Birds. The anch [...]ing place is on the Eaſt ſide, near the middle of the Iſland, cloſe by the ſhoar, within two Cables lengths of the ſandy Bay: there is about 18 or 20 fathom good faſt oazy ground, and ſmooth water; [133] for the S. E. point of the Iſland ſhelters from the South Winds which conſtantly blow here. From the S. E. point there ſtrikes out a ſmall ſhole a quar⯑ter of a Mile into the Sea, where there is commonly a great riplin or working of ſhort Waves, during all the Flood. The Tide runs pretty ſtrong, the Flood to the South, and the Ebb to the North. There is good landing on the Sandy Bay againſt the An⯑choring place, from whence you may go up into the Iſland, and at no place beſides. There are 2 or 3 high, ſteep, ſmall Rocks, at the S. E. point, not a Cables length from the Iſland: and another much bigger at the N. E. end: it is deep water all round but at the anchoring place, and at the ſhole at the S. E. point. This Iſland lieth in lat. 0 1 d. 10 m. South. It is diſtant from Cape St. Lorenzo 4 or 5 leagues, bearing from it W. S. W. and half a point weſterly. At this Iſland are plenty of thoſe ſmall Sea Turtle ſpoken of in my laſt Chapter.

The 21ſt day Captain Eaton came to an Anchor by us: he was very willing to have conſorted with us again; but Captain Davis's Men were ſo unrea⯑ſonable, that they wou'd not allow Captain Eaton's Men an equal ſhare with them in what they got: therefore Captain Eaton ſtaid here but one night, and the next day ſailed from hence, ſteering away to the Southward. We ſtaid no longer then the day enſuing, and then we ſailed toward Point St. Hellena, intending there to land ſome Men purpoſely to get Priſoners for Intelligence.

Point Santa Hellena bears South from the Iſland Plata. It lies in lat. 2 d. 15 m. South. The Point is pretty high, flat, and even at top, overgrown with many great Thiſtles, but no ſort of Tree; at a diſtance it appears like an Iſland, becauſe the Land within it is very low.

This Point ſtrikes out Weſt into the Sea, making a pretty large Bay on the North ſide. A mile within the [134] Point, on the Sandy Bay, cloſe by the Sea, there is a poor ſmall Indian Village called Sancta Hellena; the Land about it is low, ſandy and barren, there are no Trees nor Graſs growing near it; neither do the Indians produce any Fruit, Grain, or Plant, but Water-Melons only, which are large and very ſweet. There is no freſh Water at this place, nor near it; therefore the Inhabitants are obliged to fetch all their Water from the River Colanche, which is in the bottom of the Bay, about 4 leagues from it. Not far from this Town on the Bay, cloſe by the Sea, about 5 paces from high-water mark, there is a ſort of bitumenous matter boils out of a little hole in the Earth; it is like thin Tar: The Spaniards call it Al⯑gatrane. By much boiling it becomes hard like Pitch. It is frequently uſed by the Spaniards inſtead of Pitch; and the Indians that inhabit here ſave it in Jars. It boils up moſt at high Water; and then the Indians are ready to receive it. Theſe Indians are Fiſhermen, and go out to Sea on Bark-logs. Their chief ſubſiſtence is Maiz, moſt of which they get from Ships that come hither from Algatrane. There is good Anchoring to leeward of the Point, right a gainſt the Village: but on the Weſt ſide of the Point it is deep Water, and no anchoring. The Spaniards do report, that there was once a very rich Ship dri⯑ven aſhoar here in calm, for want of Wind to work her. As ſoon as ever ſhe ſtruck ſhe heel'd of to Sea, 7 or 8 fathom Water, where ſhe lies to this day; none having attempted to fiſh for her, becauſe ſhe lies deep and there falls in here a great high Sea. When we were abreſt of this Point, we ſent away our Canoas in the night to take the Indian Village. They landed in the Morning betimes cloſe by the Town, and took ſome Priſoners. They took likewiſe a ſmall Bark which the Indians had ſet on fire, but our Men quenched it, and took the Indian that did it; [135] who being aſked wherefore he ſet the Bark on fire, ſaid, that there was an Order from the Vice-Roy lately ſet out, commanding all Seamen to burn their Veſſels, if atttack'd by us, and betake them⯑ſelves to their Boats. There was another Bark in a ſmall Cove, a Mile from the Village, thither our Men went, thinking to take her, but the Seamen that were aboard ſet her in Flames and fled: In the Evening our Men came aboard, and brought the ſmall Bark with them, the fire of which they had quenched; and then we returned again towards Plata; where we arrived the 26th day of Septem⯑ber.

In the Evening we ſent out ſome Men in our Bark lately taken, and Canoas, to an Indian Village called Manta, 2 or 3 leagues to the Weſt-ward of Cape St. Lorenzo; hoping there to get other Priſo⯑ners, for we could not learn from thoſe we took at Point St. Hellena the reaſon why the Vice-Roy ſhould give ſuch Orders to burn the Ships. They had a freſh Sea-breez till 12 a Clock at Night, and then it proved calm; wherefore they rowed away with their Canoas as near to the Town as they thought convenient, and lay ſtill till day.

Manta is a ſmall Indian Village on the Main, di⯑ſtant from the Iſland Plata 7 or 8 leagues. It ſtands ſo advantageouſly to be ſeen, being built on a ſmall Aſcent, that it makes a very fair Proſpect to the Sea; yet but a few poor ſcattering Indian Houſes. There is a very fine Church, adorned with a great deal of carved Work. It was formerly a Habitation of Spa⯑niards, but they are all removed from hence now. The Land about it is dry and ſandy, bearing only a few ſhrubby Trees. Theſe Indians plant no man⯑ner of Grain or Root, but are ſupplied from other places; and commonly keep a ſtock of Proviſion to relieve Ships that want; for this is the firſt Settle⯑ment that Ships can touch at, which come from Pa⯑nama, [136] bound to Lima, or any other Port in Pern. The Land being dry and ſandy, is not fit to produce Crops of Maiz; which is the reaſon they plant none. There is a Spring of good Water between the Village and the Seas.

On the back of the Town, a pretty way up in the Country, there is a very high Mountain, towr⯑ing up like a Sugar-Loaf, called Monte-Chriſto. It is a very good Sea-mark, for there is none like it on all the Coaſt. The Body of this Mountain bears due South from Manta. About a mile and half from the ſhore right againſt the Village, there is a Rock which is very dangerous, becauſe it never appears above Water; neither doth the Sea break on it, be⯑cauſe here is ſeldom any great Sea; yet it is now ſo well known, that all Ships bound to this place do eaſily avoid it. A mile within this Rock there is good anchoring, in 6, 8, or 10 fathom Water, good hard Sand and clear Ground: And a Mile from the Road on the Weſt-ſide, there is a ſhoal running out a Mile into the Sea. From Manta to Cape St Lorenzo the Land is plain and even, of an indifferent heighth. [See a further Account of theſe Coaſts in the Ap⯑pendix.]

As ſoon as ever the day appear'd our Men landed and marched towards the Village, which was about a Mile and a half from their Land place: Some of the Indians who were ſtirring, ſaw them coming, and alarmed their Neighbours; ſo that all that were able got away. They took only two old Women, who both ſaid, that it was reported that a great many Enemies were come over Land thro' the Country of Darien into the South Seas, and that they were at preſent in Canoas and Periagoes: and that the Vice-Roy upon this News had ſet out the fore-men⯑tioned order for burning their own Ships. Our Men found no ſort of Proviſion here; the Vice-Roy having likewiſe ſent orders to all Sea-ports to [137] keep no Proviſion, but juſt to ſupply themſelves. Theſe Women alſo ſaid, that the Manta Indians were ſent over to the Iſland Plata, to deſtroy all the Goats there; which they performed about a Month agone. With this News our Men returned again, and arriv'd at Plata the next day.

We lay ſtill at the Iſland Plata, being not reſolved what to do; till the 2d day of Octob. and then Capt. Swan in the Cygnet of London arriv'd there. He was fitted out by very Eminent Merchants of that City, on a deſign only to Trade with the Spaniards or In⯑dians, having a very conſiderable Cargo well ſorted for theſe parts of the World; but meeting with di⯑vers Diſappointments, and being out of hopes to ob⯑tain a Trade in theſe Seas, his Men forced him to en⯑tertain a Company of Privateers which he met with near Nicoya, a Town whither he was going to ſeek a Trade, and theſe Privateers were bound thither in Boats to get a Ship. Theſe were the Men that we had heard of at Manta; they came over Land under the command of Capt. Peter Harris, Nephew to that Capt. Harris, who was killed before Panama. Capt. Swan was ſtill commander of his own Ship, and Capt. Harris commanded a ſmall Bark under Capt. Swan. There was much Joy on all ſides when they arriv'd; and immediately hereupon Capt. Davis and Capt. Swan conſorted, wiſhing for Capt. Eaton again. Our little Bark, which was taken at Santa Hellena, was immediately ſent out to cruize, while the Ships were fitting; for Capt. Swan's Ship being full of Goods, was not fit to entertain his new Gueſt, till the Goods were diſpoſed of; therefore he, by the conſent of the Super-cargo's, got up all his Goods on Deck, and ſold to any one that would buy upon Truſt [...] the reſt was thrown over board into the Sea, except fine Goods, as Silks, Muſlins, Stockins, &c. and [...] the Iron, whereof he had a good Quantity, [...] wrought and in Bars: This was ſaved for Ballaſt.

[138] The third day after our Bark was ſent to cruize, ſhe brought in a Prize of 400 Tuns, laden with Timber: They took her in the Bay of Guiaquil; ſhe came from a Town of that Name, and was bound to Lima. The Commander of this Prize ſaid, that it was generally reported and believed at Guiaquil, that the Vice-Roy was fitting out 10 Sail of Frigots to drive us out of the Seas. This news made our unſettled Crew wiſh, that they had been perſwaded to accept of Captain Eaton's Company on reaſonable Terms. Capt. Davis and Capt. Swan had ſome diſcourſe concerning Capt. Eaton; they at laſt concluded to ſend our ſmall Bark towards the Coaſt of Lima, as far as the Iſland Lobos, to ſeek Capt. Eaton. This being approved by all hands, ſhe was clean'd the next day, and ſent away mann'd with 20 Men, 10 of Capt. Davis's, and 10 of Swan's Men, and Capt. Swan writ a Letter directed to Capt. Eaton, deſiring his Company, and the Iſle of Plata was appointed for the general Rendezvous. When this Bark was gone, we turn'd another Bark, which we had into a Fire-ſhip; having 6 or 7 Carpenters; who ſoon fixt her; and while the Carpenters were at work about the Fire-ſhip, we ſcrubbed and clean'd our Men of War, as well as time and place would permit.

The 19th day of Oct. we finiſhed our Buſineſs, and the 20th day we ſailed towards the Iſland Lobos, where our Bark was ordered to ſtay for us, or meet us again at Plata. We had but litte Wind, there⯑fore it was the 23d day before we paſſed by Point St. Hellena. The 25th day we croſſed over the Bay of Guiaquil. The 30th day we doubled Cape Blanco. This Cape is in lat. 3 d. 45 m. It is counted the worſt Cape in all the South Seas to double, paſſing to the Southward; for in all other places Ships may ſtand off to Sea 20 or 30 Leagues off, if they find they [139] cannot get any thing under the Shoar; but here they dare not do it: for, by relation of the Spani⯑ards, they find a Current ſetting N. W. which will carry a Ship off more in two Hours, than they can run in again in five. Beſides, ſetting to the North⯑ward they loſe ground: therefore they always beat up in under the Shoar, which oft-times they find very difficult, becauſe the Wind commonly blows very ſtrong at S. S. W. or S. by W. without altering; for here are never any Land-winds. This Cape is of an indifferent heighth: it is fenced with White Rocks to the Sea; for which reaſon, I believe, it hath this Name. The Land in the Country ſeems to be full of high, ſteep, rugged and barren Rocks.

The 2d day of November we got as high as Pay⯑ta: We lay about ſix Leagues off ſhoar all the day, that the Spaniards might not ſee us; and in the E⯑vening ſent our Canoas aſhoar to take it, Mann'd with 110 Men.

Payta is a ſmall Spaniſh Sea-Port Town in the lat, of 5 d. 15 m. It is built on the Sand, cloſe by the Sea, in a Nook, Elbow, or ſmall Bay, under a pret⯑ty high Hill. There are not above 75 or 80 Houſes, and two Churches. The Houſes are but low and ill built. The Building in this Country of Peru is much alike, on all the Sea-Coaſt. The Walls are built of Brick, made with Earth and Straw kneaded toge⯑ther: They are about three foot long, two foot broad, and a foot and a half thick: They never burn them, but lay them a long time in the Sun to dry before they are uſed in building. In ſome places they have no Roofs, only Poles laid a-croſs from the ſide Walls, and covered with Matts; and then thoſe Walls are carry'd up to a conſiderable heighth. But where they build Roofs upon their Houſes, the Walls are not made ſo high, as I ſaid before. The Houſes in general all over this Kingdom are but meanly built; one chief Reaſon, with the common People eſpeci⯑ally, [140] is the want of Materials to build withal; for however it be more within Land, yet here is nei⯑ther Stone nor Timber to build with, nor any Mate⯑rials but ſuch Brick as I have deſcribed; and ever the Stone which they have in ſome places is ſo brit⯑tle, that you may rub it into Sand with your fingers. Another reaſon why they build ſo meanly is, be⯑cauſe it never rains; therefore they only endeavour to fence themſelves from the Sun. Yet their Walls, which are built but with an ordinary ſort of Brick, in compariſon with what is made in other parts of the World, continue a long time as firm as when firſt made, having never any Winds nor Rains, to rot, moulder, or ſhake them. However, the richer ſort have Timber, which they make uſe of in build⯑ing; but it is brought from other places.

This dry Country commences to the Northward, from about Cape Blanco to Coquimbo, in about 30 d. S. having no Rain that I could ever obſerve or hear of; nor any green thing growing in the Mountains; nei⯑ther yet in the Valleys, except where here and there water'd with a few ſmall Rivers diſpers'd up and down. So that the Northermoſt parts of this Tract of Land are ſupplied with Timber from Guiaquil, Galleo, Tornato, and other places that are watered with Rains; where there are plenty of all ſorts of Timber. In the South parts, as about Guaſco and Coquimbo, they fetch their Timber from the Iſland Chiloe, or other places thereabouts. The Walls of Churches and rich Mens Houſes are whitened with Lime, both within and without; and the Doors and Poſts are very large, and adorned with carved Work, and the Beams alſo in the Churches: The inſide of the Houſes are hung round with rich embroidered, or painted Cloths. They have likewiſe abundance of fine Pictures, which adds no ſmall Ornament to their Houſe: Theſe, I ſuppoſe, they have from Old Spain. But the Houſes of Payta are none of them [141] ſo richly furniſhed. The Churches were large and fairly carved: At one end of the Town there was a ſmall Fort cloſe by the Sea, but no great Guns in it. This Fort, only with Muſquets, will command all the Bay, ſo as to hinder any Boats from landing. There is another Fort on the top of the Hill, juſt over the Town, which commands both it and the lower Fort. There is neither Wood nor Water to be had there: they fetch their Water from an Indian. Town called Colan, about 2 Leagues N. N. E. from Payta: for at Colan, there is a ſmall River of freſh Water, which runs out into the Sea; from whence Ships that touch at Payta are ſupplied with Water and other Refreſhments, as Fowls, Hogs, Plantains, Yams, and Maiz: Payta being deſtitute of all theſe things, only as they fetch them from Colon, as they have occaſion.

The Indians of Colan are all Fiſhermen: they go out to Sea and fiſh for Bark-logs. Bark-logs are made of many round Logs of Wood, in manner of a Raft, and very different according to the uſe that they are deſigned for, or the humour of the people that make them, or the matter that they are made of. If they are made for fiſhing, then they are on⯑ly 3 or 4 Logs of light Wood, of 7 or 8 foot long, plac'd by the ſide of each other, pinn'd faſt together with wooden Pins, and bound hard with Withes. The Logs are ſo placed, that the middlemoſt are longer than thoſe by the ſides, eſpecially at the head or fore-part, which grows narrower gradually into an angle or point, the better to cut through the Water. Others are made to carry Goods: The bot⯑tom of theſe is made of 20 or 30 great Trees of a⯑bout 20, 30, or 40 foot long, faſten'd like the other, ſide to ſide, and ſo ſhaped: on the top of theſe they place another ſhorter row of Trees acroſs them, pinn'd faſt to each other, and then pinn'd to the un⯑dermoſt row: this double row of Planks makes the [142] bottom of the Float, and of a conſiderable breadth [...] From this bottom the Raft is raiſed to about 10 foo [...] higher, with rows of Poſts ſometimes ſet upright, and ſupporting a Floor or two; but thoſe I obſerv'd were rais'd by thick Trees laid a-croſs each other, as in Wood-piles; only not cloſe together, as in the bottom of the Float, but at the ends and ſides only, ſo as to leave the middle all hollow like a Chamber except that here and there a Beam goes a-croſs it, to keep the Float more compact. In this Hollow, at about 4 foot heighth from the Beams at the bottom, they lay ſmall Poles along, and cloſe together, to make a floor for another Room, on the top of which alſo they lay another ſuch floor made of Poles; and the enterances in both theſe Rooms is only by creep⯑ing between the great traverſe Trees which make the Walls of this Sea-Houſe. The loweſt of theſe ſtories ſerves as a Cellar: there they lay great ſtones for Ballaſt, and their Jars of freſh Water cloſed up, and whatever may bear being wet; for by the weight of the Ballaſt and Cargo, the bottom of this Room, and of the whole Veſſel, is ſunk ſo deep, as to lie 2 or 3 feet within the ſurface of the Water. The ſecond ſtory is for the Sea-men, and their ne⯑ceſſaries. Above this ſecond ſtory the Goods are ſtowed to what heighth they pleaſe, uſually about 8 or 10 feet, and kept together by poles ſet upright quite round: only there is a little ſpace abaft for the Steers-man, (for they have a large Rudder) and afore for the Fire-hearth, to dreſs their Victuals, eſpe⯑cially when they make long Voyages, as from Lima to Truxillo or Guiaquil, or Panama; which laſt Voy⯑age is 5 or 600 leagues. In the midſt of all, among the Goods, riſes a Maſt, to which is faſtned a large Sail, as in our Weſt-Country Barges in the Thames. They always go before the Wind, being unable to Ply againſt it; and therefore are fit only for theſe Seas, where the Wind is always in a manner the [143] ſame not varying above a point or two all the way from Lima, till ſuch time as they come into the Bay of Panama: and even there they meet with no great Sea; but ſometimes Northerly winds: and then they lower their Sails, and drive before it, waiting a change. All their care then is only to keep off from Shoar; for they are ſo made that they cannot ſink at Sea. Theſe Rafts carry 60 or 70 Tuns of Goods and upwards; their Cargo is chiefly Wine, Oil, Flower, Sugar, Quito Cloth, Soap, Goat-ſkins dreſt, &c. The Float is manag'd uſually by 3 or 4 Men, who being unable to return with it againſt the Trade-wind, when they come to Panama diſpoſe of the goods and bottom together; getting a paſſage back again for themſelves in ſome Ship or Boat bound to the Port they came from; and there they make a new Bark-log for their next Cargo.

The ſmaller ſort of Bark-logs, deſcribed before, which lie flat on the Water, and are uſed for Fiſh⯑ing or carrying Water to Ships, or the like (half a Tun or a Tun at a time) are more governable than the other, tho' they have Maſts and Sails too. With theſe they go out at night by the help of the Land-wind (which is ſeldom wanting on this Coaſt) and return back in the day time with the Sea-wind.

This ſort of Floats are uſed in many places both in the Eaſt and Weſt-Indies. On the Coaſt of Coro⯑mandel in the Eaſt-Indies they call them Catamarans. Theſe are but one Log, or two ſometimes, of a ſort of light Wood, and are made without Sail or Rud⯑der, and ſo ſmall, that they carry but one Man, whoſe legs and breech are always in the Water, and he manages his Log with a Paddle, appearing at a diſtance like a Man ſitting on a Fiſh's back.

The Country about Payta is mountainous and bar⯑ren, like all the reſt of the Kingdom of Peru. There is no Towns of conſequence nearer it than Piura, which is a large Town in the Country 40 miles di⯑ſtant. [144] It lieth, by report of our Spaniſh Priſoners, in a Valley which is water'd with a ſmall River, that diſembogues it ſelf into the Bay of Chirapee, in about 7 d. of North latitude. This Bay is nearer to Piura than Payta: yet all Goods imported by Sea for Piura are landed at Payta, for the Bay of Chirapee is full of dangerous ſholes, and therefore not frequented by ſhipping. The Road of Payta is one of the beſt on the Coaſt of Peru. It is ſheltered from the South-weſt by a Point of Land, which makes a large Bay and ſmooth Water for Ships to ride in. There is room enough for a good Fleet of Ships, and good anchoring in any depth, from 6 fathom Water to 20 fathom. Right againſt the Town, the nearer the Town the Shallower the Water, and the ſmoother the riding; it is clean Sand all over the Bay. Moſt Ships paſſing either to the North or the South touch at this place for Water; for tho' here is none at the Town, yet thoſe Indian Fiſher-men of Colan will, and do ſupply all Ships very reaſonably; and good Wa⯑ter is much prized on all this Coaſt through the ſcar⯑city of it.

November the 3d, at 6 a clock in the morning, our Men landed, about 4 miles to the South of the Town, and took ſome Priſoners that were ſent thi⯑ [...]her to watch for fear of us; and theſe Priſoners [...]aid, That the Governour of Piura came with 100 [...]rmed Men to Payta the night before purpoſely to [...]ppoſe our landing there, if we ſhould attempt it.

Our Men marched directly to the Fort on the [...]ill, and took it without the loſs of one Man. Here⯑upon the Governor of Piura with all his Men, and [...]he Inhabitants of the Town, ran away as faſt as [...]hey could. Then our Men entered the Town, and [...]ound it emptied both of Money and Goods; there was not ſo much as a Meal of Victuals left for them. The Priſoners told us a Ship had been here a lit⯑tle before and burnt a great Ship in the Road, but [145] did not land their Men; and that here they put a⯑ſhore all their Priſoners and Pilots. We knew this muſt be Captain Eaton's Ship which had done this, and by theſe circumſtances we ſuppoſed he was gone to the Eaſt-Indies, it being always deſign'd by him. The Priſoners told us alſo, That ſince Capt. Eaton was here, a ſmall Bark had been off the Harbour, and taken a pair of Bark-logs a fiſhing, and made the Fiſhermen bring aboard 20 or 30 Jars of freſh Water. This we ſuppoſed was our Bark that was ſent to rhe Lobos to ſeek Capt. Eaton.

In the Evening we came in with our Ships, and anchored before the Town in 10 fathom Water, near a Mile from the Shore. Here we ſtaid till the ſixth day, in hopes to get a Ranſom for the Town. Our Captains demanded 300 Packs of Flower, 3000 pound of Sugar, 25 Jars of Wine, and 1000 Jars of Water to be brought off to us; but we got nothing of it. Therefore Captain Swan ordered the Town to be fired, which was preſently done. Then all our Men came aboard, and Captain Swan ordered the Bark which Captain Harris commanded, to be burnt, becauſe ſhe did not ſail well.

At Night, when the Land-wind came off, we ſailed from hence towards Lobos. The 10th Day in the Evening we ſaw a Sail bearing N. W. by N. as far as we could well diſcern her on our Deck. We im⯑mediately chaſed, ſeparating our ſelves, the better to meet her in the Night; but we miſt her. Therefore the next Morning we again trimm'd ſharp, and made the beſt of our way to the Lobos de la Mar.

The 14th day we had ſight of the Iſland Lobos de Terra: It bore Eaſt from us; we ſtood in towards it, and betwixt 7 and 8 a Clock in the Night came to an Anchor at the N. E. end of the Iſland, in 4 fathom Water. This Iſland at Sea is of an indifferent height, and appears like Lobos de la Mar. About a quarter of a Mile from the North-end there is a great hollow [146] Rock, and a good Channel between, where there is 7 fathom Water. The 15th day we went aſhore, and found abundance of Penguins and Boobies, and Seal in great quantities. We ſent aboard of all theſe to be dreſt, for we had not taſted any Fleſh in a great while before; therefore ſome of us did eat very heartily. Capt. Swan, to encourage his Men to eat this courſe Fleſh, would commend it for extraordi⯑nary good Food, comparing the Seal to a roaſting Pig, the Boobies to Hens, and the Penguins to Ducks: This he did to train them to live contentedly on courſe Meat, not knowing but we might be forced to make uſe of ſuch Food before we departed out of theſe Seas; for it is generally ſeen among Privateers, that nothing emboldens them ſooner to mutiny than want, which we could not well ſuffer in a place where there are ſuch quantities of theſe Animals to be had, if Men could be perſwaded to be content with them.

In the Afternoon we ſailed from Lobos de Terra, with the Wind at S. by E. and arriv'd at Lobos de la Mar on the 19th day. Here we found a Letter, left by our Bark that was ſent to ſeek Capt. Eaton, by which we underſtood, that Captain Eaton had been there, but was gone before they arrived, and had left no Letter to adviſe us which way he was gone; and that our Bark was again returned to Plata, in hopes to find us there, or meet us by the way, elſe reſolving to ſtay for us there. We were ſorry to hear that Capt. Eaton was gone, for now we did not ex⯑pect to meet with him any more in theſe Seas.

The 21ſt day we ſent out our Moſkito Strikers for Turtle, who brought aboard enough to ſerve both Ships Companies; and this they did all the time that we abode here. While we lay at this Iſland, Capt. Swan made new Yards, ſquarer than thoſe he had before, and made his Sails larger, and our Ships Company in the mean time ſplit Plank for Fire-wood, [147] and put aboard as many Planks as we could conveniently ſtow, for other uſes: Here being Plank enough of all ſorts, which we had brought hither in the firſt Prize that we took, and left here.

The 26th day in the Evening we ſaw a ſmall Bark about 3 Leagues N. N. W. from the Iſland, but we ſuppoſing her to be our own Bark, did not go after her. The next Morning ſhe was two Leagues South of the Iſland, ſtanding off to Sea; but we did not now chace her neither, altho' we knew ſhe was not our Bark; for being to Windward of us, ſhe could have made her eſcape, if we had chaced her. This Bark, as we were afterwards inform'd, was ſent out purpoſely to ſee if we were at this Iſland. Her Orders were, not to come too near, only to ap⯑pear in [...]ight; they ſuppoſing that if we were here we ſhould ſoon be after her; as indeed it was a wonder we had not chaced her: But our not doing ſo, and lying cloſe under the Iſland undiſcern'd by them, was a great occaſion of our coming upon Pu⯑na afterwards unexectedly, they being now without fear of any Enemy ſo near them:

The 28th day we ſcrubbed our Ships bottom, in⯑tending to ſail the next day towards Guiaquil; it be⯑ing concluded upon to attempt that Town before we returned again to Plata. Accordingly, on the 29th day in the Morning, we looſed from hence, ſteering directly for the Bay of Guiaquil. This Bay runs in between Cape Blanco on the South-ſide, and Point Chandy on the North. About 25 Leagues from C. Blanco, near the bottom of the Bay, there is a ſmall Iſland called Santa Clara, which lies Eaſt and Weſt: It is of an indifferent length, and it appears like a dead Man ſtretched out in a Shroud. The Eaſt-end repreſents the Head, and the Weſt-end the Feet. Ships that are bound into the River of Guia⯑quil paſs on the South-ſide, to avoid the ſholes which lie on the North-ſide of it; whereon for [...] Ships [148] have heen loſt. It is reported by the Spaniards, that there is a very rich Wreck lies on the North-ſide of that Iſland, not far from it; and that ſome of the Plate hath been taken up by one who came from Old Spain, with a Patent from the King to fiſh in thoſe Seas for Wrecks; but he dying, the Project ceas'd, and the Wreck ſtill remains as he left it; only the Indians by ſtealth do ſometimes take up ſome of it; and they might have taken up much more, if it were not for the Cat-fiſh which ſwarms hereabouts.

The Cat-fiſh is much like a Whiting, but the Head is flatter and bigger. It hath a great wide Mouth, and certain ſmall Strings pointing out from each ſide of it, like Cats Whiſkers, and for that reaſon it is call'd a Cat-fiſh. It hath three Fins, one growing on the top of his Back, and one on either ſide. Each of theſe Fins have a ſtiff ſharp Bone, which is very ve⯑nomous if it ſtrikes into a Man's Fleſh; therefore it it is dangerous diving where many of theſe Fiſh are. The Indians that adventured to ſearch this Wreck, have to their ſorrow experienc'd it; ſome having loſt their Lives, others the uſe of their Limbs by it: This we were informed by an Indian, who himſelf had been fiſhing on it by ſtealth. I my ſelf have known ſome white Men that have loſt the uſe of their Hands, only by a ſmall prick with the Fin of theſe Fiſh: Therefore when we catch them with a Hook, we tread on them to take the Hook out of their Mouths; for otherwiſe, in flurting about (as all Fiſh will when firſt taken) they might acciden⯑tally ſtrike their ſharp Fins into the Hands of thoſe that caught them. Some of theſe Fiſh are 7 or 8 pound weight: ſome again, in ſome particular pla⯑ces, are none of them bigger than a Man's Thumb, but their Fins are all alike venomous. They uſe to be at the Mouths of Rivers, or where there is much Mud and Oaze, and they are found all over the American Coaſt, both in the North and South-Sea, at [149] leaſt in the hot Countries, as alſo in the Eaſt-Indies: where ſailing with Captain Minchin among certain Iſlands near the Streights of Malacca, he pointed to an Iſland, at which he told me he loſt the uſe of his hand by one of theſe, only in going to take the Hook out of its mouth. The wound was ſcarce viſible, yet his Hand was much ſwoln, and the Pain laſted about 9 weeks; during moſt part of which the raging heat of it was almoſt ready to diſtract him. How⯑ever though the Bony Fins of theſe Fiſh are ſo ve⯑nomous, yet the Bones in their Bodies are not ſo; at leaſt we never perceived any ſuch effect in eating the Fiſh; and their Fleſh is very ſweet, delicious and wholeſome Meat.

From the Iſland Santa Clara to Punta Arena is 7 leagues E. N. E. This Punta Arena, or Sandy Point, is the Weſtermoſt Point of the Iſland Puna. Here all Ships bound into the River of Guiaquil anchor, and muſt wait for a Pilot, the enterance being very dan⯑gerous for Strangers.

The Iſland Puna is a pretty large flat low Iſland, ſtretching Eaſt and Weſt about 12 or 14 leagues long, and about 4 or 5 leagues wide. The Tide runs very ſtrong all about this Iſland, but ſo many different ways, by reaſon of the Branches, Creeks and Rivers that run into the Sea near it, that it caſts up many dangerous ſholes on all ſides of it. There is in the Iſland only one Indian Town on the South⯑ſide of it, cloſe by the Sea, and 7 leagues from Point Arena, which Town is alſo called Puna. The Indians of this Town are all Seamen, and are the only Pi⯑lots in theſe Seas, eſpecially for this River. Their chiefeſt employment, when they are not at Sea, is fiſhing. Theſe Men are obliged by the Spaniards to keep good watch for Ships that anchor at Point Are⯑na; which, as I ſaid before, is 7 leagues from the Town Puna. The place where they keep this watch is at a Point of Land on the Iſland Puna, that ſtarts [150] out into the Sea; from whence they can ſee all Ships that anchor at Point Arena. The Indians come thither in the morning, and return at night on Horſeback. From this watching Point, to Point Arena, it is 4 leagues, all drowned Mangrove-Land: And in the midway between theſe two Points is ano⯑ther ſmall Point, where theſe Indians are obliged to keep another Watch, when they fear an Enemy. The Centinel goes thither in a Canoa in the morn⯑ing, and returns at night; for there is no coming thither by Land, through that Mangrove marſhy ground. The middle of the Iſland Puna is Savannah or Paſture. There are ſome ridges of good Wood⯑land, which is of a light Yellow or ſandy Mould, producing large tall Trees moſt unknown even to Travellers: But there are plenty of Palmeto-Trees, which becauſe I am acquainted with, I ſhall de⯑ſcibe. The Palmeto-Tree is about the bigneſs of an ordinary Aſh: It is about 30 foot high; the body ſtraight, without any limb, or branch, or leaf, ex⯑cept at the head only, where it ſpreads forth into many ſmall Branches, not half ſo big as a Mans Arm, ſome no bigger than ones Finger: Theſe Branches, are about 3 or 4 foot long, clear from any knot: At the end of the Branch there groweth one broad leaf, about the bigneſs of a large Fan. This, when it firſt ſhoots forth, grows in folds, like a Fan when it is cloſed; and ſtill as it grows bigger ſo it opens, till it becomes like a Fan ſpread abroad. It is ſtrengthened towards the ſtalk with many ſmall ribs ſpringing from thence, and growing into the leaf; which as they grow near the end of the leaf, grow thinner and ſmaller. The leaves that make the bruſh part of the Flag-brooms which are brought in⯑to England, grow juſt in this manner; and are in⯑deed a ſmall kind of Palmeto; for there are of them of ſeveral dimenſions. In Bermudas, and elſewhere, they make Hats, Baſkets, Brooms, Fans to blow [151] the fire inſtead of Bellows, with many other Houſe⯑implements, of Palmeto-leaves. On the Ridges where theſe Trees grow, the Indians have here and there Plantations of Maiz, Yams, and Potatoes.

There are in the Town of Puna about 20 Houſes, and a ſmall Church. The Houſes ſtand all on Poſts, 10 or 12 foot high, with Ladders on the outſide to go up into them. I did never ſee the like Building any where but among the Malayans in the Eaſt-Indies. They are thatched with Palmeto-leaves, and their Chambers well boarded, in which laſt they exceed the Malayans. The beſt place for Ships to lie at an Anchor is againſt the middle of the Town. There is 5 fathom Water within a Cables length of the ſhoar, and good ſoft deep Oaze where Ships may careen, or hale aſhoar; it ſtows 15 or 16 foot Wa⯑ter up and down.

From Puna to Guiaquil is reckoned 7 leagues. It is 1 league before you come to the River of Guiaquil's mouth, where it is above two mile wide; from thence upwards the River lies pretty ſtreight, with⯑out any conſiderable turnings. Both ſides of the Ri⯑ver are low ſwampy Land, over-grown with Red Mangroves, ſo that there is no landing. Four mile before you come to the Town of Guiaquil, there's a low Iſland ſtanding in the River. This Iſland di⯑vides the River into two parts, making 2 very fair Channels for Ships to paſs up and down. The S. W. Channel is the wideſt, the other is as deep, but nar⯑rower and narower yet, by reaſon of many Trees and Buſhes, which ſpread over the River, both from the Main and from the Iſland; and there are alſo ſeveral great ſtumps of Trees ſtanding upright in the Water on either ſide. The Iſland is above a mile long. From the upper part of the Iſland to the Town of Guiaquil, is almoſt a league, and near as much from one ſide of the River to the other. In that ſpacious place Ships of the greateſt burthen may [152] ride afloat; but the beſt place for Ships is neareſt to that part of the Land where the Town ſtands; and this place is ſeldom without Ships. Guiaquil ſtands facing the Iſland, cloſe by the River, partly on the ſide, and partly at the foot of a gentle Hill decli⯑ning towards the River, by which the lower part of it is often overflown. There are two Forts, one ſtanding on the low Ground, the other on the Hill. This Town makes a very fine proſpect, it being beautify'd with ſeveral Churches and other good Buildings. Here lives a Governor, who, as I have been informed, hath his Patent from the King of Spain. Guiaquil may be reckoned one of the chiefeſt Sea-ports in the South Seas: The Commodities which are exported from hence are Cacao, Hides, Tallow, Sarſaparilla, and other Drugs, and Woollen-Cloth, commonly called Cloth of Quito.

The Cacao grows on both ſides of the River a⯑bove the Town. It is a ſmall Nut, like the Campea⯑chy Nut: I think the ſmalleſt of the two; they pro⯑duce as much Cacoa here as ſerves all the Kingdom of Peru; and much of it is ſent to Acapulco, and from thence to the Phillipine Iſlands.

Sarſaparilla grows in the Water by the ſides of the River, as I have been informed.

The Quito Cloth comes from a rich Town in the Country within Land called Quito. There is a great deal made, both Serges and Broad-Cloth. This Cloth is not very fine, but is worn by the common ſort of People throughout the whole Kingdom of Peru. This and all other Commodities, which come from Quito, are ſhipt off at Guiaquil for other Parts; and all imported Goods for the City of Qui⯑to paſs by Guiaquil: By which it may appear that Guiaquil is a Place of no mean Trade.

Quito, as I have been informed, is a very popu⯑lous City, ſeated in the heart of the Country. It is inhabited partly by Spaniards; but the major part of [153] its Inhabitants are Indians, under the Spaniſh Go⯑vernment.

It is environed with Mountains of a vaſt heighth, from whoſe bowels many great Rivers have their riſe. Theſe Mountains abound in Gold, which by violent Rains is waſh'd with the Sand into the adjacent Brooks, where the Indians reſort in Troops, waſhing away the Sand, and putting up the Gold-duſt in their Calabaſhes or Gourd Shells: But for the manner of the gathering the Gold I refer you too Mr. Wafer's Book: only I ſhall remark here, that Quito is the place in all the Kingdom of Peru, that abounds moſt with this Rich Metal, as I have been often informed.

The Country is ſubject to great Rains, and very thick Fogs, eſpecially the Valleys. For that reaſon it is very unwholeſome and ſickly. The chiefeſt Diſtempers are Fevers, violent Head-ach, Pains in the Bowels, and Fluxes. I know no place where Gold is found but what is very unhealthy: As I ſhall more particularly relate when I come to ſpeak of Acbin in the Iſle of Sumatra in the Eaſt-Indies. Guia⯑quil is not ſo ſickly as Quito and other Towns farther within Land; yet in compariſon with the Towns that are on the Coaſt of Mare Pacifico, South of Cape Blanco, it is very ſickly.

It was to this Town of Guiaquil that we were bound, therefore we left our Ships off Cape Blanco, and ran into the Bay of Guiaquil with our Bark and Canoas, ſteering in for the Iſland Santa Clara, where we arrived the next day after we left our Ships, and from thence we ſent away two Canoas the next evening to Point Arena. At this Point there are abundance of Oyſters, and other Shell-fiſh, as Cockles and Muſcles; therefore the Indians of Puna often come hither to get theſe Fiſh. Our Canoas got over before day, and abſconded in a Creek, to wait for the coming of the Puna Indians. The next morning [154] ſome of them, according to their cuſtom, came thither on Bark-logs, at the latter part of the Ebb, and were all taken by our Men. The next day, by their advice, the two Watchmen of the Indian Town Puna were taken by our Men, and all its Inhabitants, not one eſcaping. The next Ebb they took a ſmall Bark laden with Quito-cloth. She came from Guia⯑quil that Tide, and was bound to Lima, they having advice that we were gone off the Coaſt, by the Bark which I ſaid we ſaw while we lay at the Iſland Lo⯑bos. The Maſter of this Cloth-Bark informed our Men, that there were 3 Barks coming from Guia⯑quil, laden with Negroes: he ſaid they would come from thence the next Tide. The ſame Tide of Ebb that they took the Cloth-bark, they ſent a Canoa to our Bark, where the biggeſt part of the Men were to haſten them away with ſpeed to the Indian Town The Bark was now riding at Point Arena; and the next Flood ſhe came with all the Men, and the reſt of the Canoas to Puna. The Tide of Flood being now far ſpent, we lay at this Town till the laſt of the Ebb, and then rowed away, leaving 5 Men aboard our Bark, who were ordered to lie ſtill till 8 a clock the next morning, and not to fire at any Boat or Bark, but after that time they might fire at any ob⯑ject: for it was ſuppoſed, that before that time we ſhould be maſters of Guiaquil. We had not rowed above 2 mile, before we met and took one of the three Barks laden with Negroes; the Maſter of her ſaid, that the other two would come from Guiaquil the next Tide of Ebb. We cut her Main-maſt down, and left her at an Anchor. It was now ſtrong Flood, and therefore we rowed with all ſpeed to⯑wards the Town, in hopes to get thither before the Flood was down, but we found it farther than we did expect it to be, or elſe our Canoas being very full of men, did not row ſo faſt as we would have them. The day broke when we were two leagues [155] from the Town, and then we had not above an hours Flood more; therefore our Captains deſired the Indian Pilot to direct us to ſome Creek where we might abſcond all day, which was immediately done, and one Canoa was ſent toward Puna to our Bark, to order them not to move nor fire till the next day. But ſhe came too late to countermand the firſt orders; for the two Barks before mentioned laden with Negroes, came from the Town the laſt quarter of the evening Tide, and lay in the River, cloſe by the ſhoar on one ſide, and we rowed upon the other ſide and miſt them; neither did they ſee nor hear us. Aſſoon as the Flood was ſpent, the two Barks weighed and went down with the Ebb, towards Puna. Our Bark ſeeing them coming di⯑rectly towards them, and both full of men, ſuppoſed that we by ſome Accident had been deſtroyed, and that the two Barks were Mann'd with Spaniſh Sol⯑diers, and ſent to take our Ships, and therefore they fired 3 Guns at them a league before they came near. The two Spaniſh Barks immediately came to an Anchor, and the Maſters got into their Boats, and rowed for the ſhoar; but our Canoa that was ſent from us took them both. The firing of theſe 3 Guns made a great diſorder among our advanced Men, for moſt of them did believe they were heard at Guiaquil, and that therefore it could be no profit to lie ſtill in the Creek; but either row away to the Town, or back again to our Ships. It was now quarter ebb, therefore we could not move upwards, if we had been diſpos'd ſo to do. At length Captain Davis ſaid, he would immediately land in the Creek where they lay, and march directly to the Town, if but 40 Men would accompany him: and without ſaying more words, he landed among the Mangroves in the Marſhes. Thoſe that were ſo minded followed him, to the number of 40 or 50. Captain Swan lay ſtill with the reſt of the Party in the Creek, [156] for they thought it impoſſible to do any good that way. Captain Davis and his Men were abſent about 4 hours, and then returned all wet, and quite tired, and could not find any paſſage out into the firm Land. He had been ſo far, that he almoſt deſpair'd of getting back again: for a Man cannot paſs thro' thoſe red Mangroves but with very much labour. When Capt. Davis was return'd, we concluded to be going towards the Town the beginning of the next flood; and if we found that the Town was alarm'd we purpoſed to return again without attempting any thing there. As ſoon as it was flood we rowed away, and paſſed by the Iſland thro' the N. E. Channel, which is the narroweſt. There are ſo many Stumps in the River, that it is very dangerous paſſing in the night (and that is the time we always take for ſuch Attempts) for the River runs very ſwift, and one of our Canoas ſtuck on a ſtump, and had certainly over-ſet, if ſhe had not been immediately reſcued by others. When we were come almoſt to the end of the Iſland, there was a Muſquet fired at us out of the Buſhes on the Main. We then had the Town open before us, and preſently ſaw lighted Torches, or Candles, all the Town over; whereas before the Gun was fired there was but one Light: there⯑fore we now concluded we were diſcovered: Yet many of our Men ſaid, that it was a Holy-day the next day, as it was indeed, and that therefore the Spaniards were making Fire-works, which they often do in the night againſt ſuch times. We rowed there-fore a little farther, and found firm Land, and Cap⯑tain Davis pitch'd his Canoa aſhore and landed with his Men. Captain Swan, and moſt of his Men, did not think it convenient to attempt any thing, ſeeing the Town was alarmed; but at laſt, being upbraided with Cowardize, Captain Swan and his Men landed alſo. The place where we landed was about 2 mile from the Town: it was all over-grown with Woods [157] ſo thick, that we could not march through in the Night; and therefore we ſat down, waiting for the light of the Day. We had two Indian Pilots with us; one that had been with us a Month, who having re⯑ceived ſome Abuſes from a Gentleman of Guiaquil, to be revenged offered his Service to us; and we found him very faithful: The other was taken by us not above 2 or 3 days before, and he ſeemed to be as willing as the other to aſſiſt us. This latter was led by one of Captain Davis's Men, who ſhewed himſelf very forward to go to the Town, and up⯑braided others with faint-heartedneſs: Yet this Man (as he afterwards confeſſed) notwithſtanding his Courage privately cut the String that the Guide was made faſt with, and let him go to the Town by himſelf, not caring to follow him; but when he thought the Guide was got far enough from us, he cried out that the Pilot was gone, and that ſome Body had cut the Cord that tied him. This put every Man in a moving Poſture to ſeek the Indian, but all in vain; and our Conſternation was great being in the dark and among Woods; ſo the deſign was wholly daſhed, for not a Man after that had the heart to ſpeak of going farther. Here we ſtaid till day, and then rowed out into the middle of the River, where we had a fair view of the Town; which, as I ſaid before, makes a very pleaſant proſ⯑pect. We lay ſtill about half an hour, being a mile, or ſomething better, from the Town. They did not fire one Gun at us, nor we at them. Thus our deſign on Guiaquil fail'd: yet Captain Townely, and Capt. Francois Gronet took it a little while after this. When we had taken a full view of the Town, we rowed over the River, where we went aſhore to a Beef Eſtantion or Farm, and kill'd a Cow, which we dreſt and eat. We ſtaid there till the Evening Tide of Ebb, and then rowed down the River, and the 9th day in the Morning arrived at Pima. In our [158] way thither we went aboard the 3 Barks laden with Negroes, that lay at their Anchor in the River, and carried the Barks away with us. There were 1000 Negroes in 3 Barks, all luſty young Men and Women. When we came to Puna, we ſent a Canoa to Point Arena, to ſee if the Ships were come thither. The 12th day ſhe returned again, with tydings that they were both there at Anchor. There⯑fore in the Afternoon we all went aboard of our Ships, and carry'd the Cloth-Bark with us, and about 40 of the ſtouteſt Negro-Men, leaving their 3 Barks with the reſt; and out of theſe alſo Capt. Davis and Capt. Swan choſe about 14 or 15 a-piece, and turn'd the reſt aſhore.

There was never a greater oportunity put into the Hands of Men to enrich themſelves than we had; to have gone with theſe Negroes and ſettled our ſelves at Santa Maria, on the Iſthmus of Darien, and employed them in getting Gold out of the Mines there. Which might have been done with eaſe: For about 6 Months before this, Capt. Har⯑ris (who was now with us) coming over Land from the North Seas, with his Body of Privateers, had routed the Spaniards away from the Town and Gold-Mines of Santa Maria, ſo that they had never attempted to ſettle there again ſince: Add to this, that the Indian Neighbourhood, who were mortal Enemies to the Spaniards, and had been fluſht by their Succeſſes againſt them, through the aſſiſtance of the Privateers, for ſeveral years, were our faſt Friends, and ready to receive and aſſiſt us. We had, as I have ſaid, 1000 Negroes to work for us, we had 200 Tun of Flower that lay at the Gallapagos, there was the River of Santa Maria, where we could careen and fit our Ships; and might fortifie the mouth ſo, that if all the ſtrength the Spaniards have in P [...] had come againſt us, we could have kept them out. If they lay with Guard-ſhips of Strength to keep us [159] in, yet we had a great Country to live in, and a great Nation of Indians that were our Friends: Be⯑ſide, which was the principal thing, we had the North Seas to befriend us; from whence we could export our ſelves, or Effects, or import Goods or Men to our aſſiſtance; for in a ſhort time we ſhould have had aſſiſtance from all parts of the Weſt-Indies; many thouſands of Privateers from Jamaica and the French Iſlands eſpecially would have flockt over to us; and long before this time we might have been Maſters not only of thoſe Mines, (the richeſt Gold-Mines ever yet found in America) but of all the Coaſt as high as Quito: And much more than I ſay might then probably have been done.

But theſe may ſeem to the Reader but Golden Dreams: To leave them therefore; The 13th day we ſailed from Point Arena towards Plata, to ſeek our Bark that was ſent to the Iſland Lobos, in ſearch of Captain Eaton. We were 2 Ships in Company, and 2 Barks; and the 16th day we arrived at Plata, but found no Bark there, nor any Letter. The next day we went over to the Main to fill Water, and in our Paſſage met our Bark: She had been a ſecond time at the Iſland Lobos, and not finding us, was coming to Plata again. They had been in ſome want of Proviſion ſince they left us, and therefore they had been at Santa Hellena, and taken it; where they got as much Maize as ſerved them 3 or 4 days; and that, with ſome Fiſh and Turtle which they ſtruck, laſted them till they came to the Iſland Lobos de Terra. They got Boobies and Penguins Eggs; of which they laid in a ſtore; and went from thence to Lobos de la Mar, where they repleniſhed their ſtock of Eggs, and ſalted up a few young Seal, for fear they ſhould want: And being thus victualled, they returned again towards Plata. When our Water was fill'd, we went over again to the Iſland Plata. There we parted the Cloths that w [...]re taken in the [160] Cloth-Bark into two Lots or Shares; Captain Da⯑vis and his Men had one part, and Captain Swan and his Men had the other part. The Bark which the Cloth was in, Captain Swan kept for a Tender. At this time here were at Plata a great many large Turtles, which I judge came from the Gallapago's, for I had never ſeen any here before, tho' I had been here ſeveral times: This was their Coupling-time, which is much ſooner in the Year here than in the Weſt-Indies, properly ſo called. Our Strikers brought aboard every day more than we could eat. Captain Swan had no Striker, and therefore had no Turtle but what was ſent him from Captain Davis; and all his Flower too he had from Captain Davis: But ſince our Diſappointment at Guiaquil, Capt. Davis's Men murmured againſt Captain Swan, and did not willingly give him any Proviſion, becauſe he was not ſo forward to go thither as Capt. Davis. How⯑ever, at laſt, theſe differences were made up, and we concluded to go into the Bay of Panama, to a Town called La Velia; but becauſe we had not Ca⯑noas enough to land our Men, we were reſolved to ſearch ſome Rivers where the Spaniards have no Commerce, there to get Indian Canoas.

CHAP. VII.

THE 23d day of Decemb. 1684. we ſailed from the Iſland Plata, towards the Bay of Panama: The Wind at S. S. E. a fine briſk gale, and fine Wea⯑ther. The next morning we paſt by Cape Paſſao. This Cape is in lat. 00 d. 08 m. South of the Equa⯑tor. It runs out into the Sea with a high round Point, which ſeems to be divided in the midſt. It is bald againſt the Sea, but within Land, and on both ſides, it is full of ſhort Trees. The Land in the Country is very high and Mountainous, and it ap⯑pears to be very woody. Between Cape Paſſao and Cape St Franciſco, the Land by the Sea is full of ſmall Points, making as many little ſandy Bays between them; and is of an indifferent heighth, [163] covered with Trees of divers ſorts; ſo that ſailing by this Coaſt you ſee nothing but a vaſt Grove or Wood, which is ſo much the more pleaſant, becauſe the Trees are of ſeveral Forms, both in reſpect to their Growth and Colour.

Our deſign was, as I ſaid in my firſt Chapter, to ſearch for Canoas in ſome River where the Spaniards have neither Settlement nor Trade with the native Indians. We had Spaniſh Pilots, and Indians bred un⯑der the Spaniards, who were able to carry us into any Harbour or River belonging to the Spaniards, but were wholly unacquainted with thoſe Rivers which were not frequented by the Spaniards. There are many ſuch unſrequented Rivers between Plata and Panama: Indeed all the way from the Line to the Gulph of St. Michaels, or even to Panama it ſelf, the Coaſt is not inhabited by any Spaniards, nor are the Indians that inhabit there any way un⯑der their ſubjection: except only near the Iſle Gal⯑lo, where, on the Banks of a Gold River or two, there are ſome Spaniards who work there to find Gold.

Now our Pilots being at a loſs on theſe leſs fre⯑quented Coaſts, we ſupply'd that defect out of the Spaniſh Pilot-books, which we took in their Ships: Theſe we found by experience to be very good Guides. Yet nevertheleſs the Country in many Places by the Sea being low, and full of openings, Creeks and Rivers, it is ſomewhat difficult to find any particular River that a Man deſigns to go to, where he is not well acquainted.

This however could be no diſcouragement to us; for one River might probably be as well furniſhed with Indian Canoas as another; and if we found them, it was to us indifferent where, yet we pitcht on the River St. Jago, not becauſe the [...] were not other Rivers as large, and as likely to be inhabited with Indians as it; but becauſe that River was not far from Gallo, an Iſland where our Ships could an⯑chor [164] ſafely and ride ſecurely. We paſt by Cape St. Franciſco, meeting with great and continued Rains. The Land by the Sea to the North of the Cape, is low and extraordinary woody; the Trees are very thick, and ſeem to be of a prodigious height and bigneſs. From Cape St. Franciſco the Land runs more Eaſterly into the Bay of Panama. I take this Cape to be its Bounds on the South ſide, and the Iſles of Cobaya or Quibo to bound it on the N. ſide. Between this Cape and the Iſle Gallo, there are many large and navigable Rivers. We paſſed by them all till we came to the River St Jago.

This River is near 2 d. North of the Equator. It is large and navigable ſome leagues up, and 7 leagues from the Sea it divides it ſelf into two parts, making an Iſland that is 4 leagues wide againſt the Sea. The wideſt branch is that on the S. W. ſide of the Iſland. Both Branches are very deep, but the Mouth of the narrower is ſo choakt with ſholes, that at low wa⯑ter, even Canoas can't enter. Above the Iſland it is a league wide and the Stream runs pretty ſtraight, and very ſwift. The Tide flows about 3 leagues up the River, but to what heighth I know not. Probably the River hath its Original from ſome of the Rich Mountains near the City Quito, and it runs through a Country, as rich in Soil, as perhaps any in the World, eſpecially when it draws within 10 or 12 leagues of the Sea. The Land there both on the Iſland, and on the both ſides of the River, is of a black deep Mold, producing extraordinary great tall Trees of many ſorts, ſuch as uſually grow in theſe hot Climates. I ſhall only give an account of the Cotton and Cabbage-trees, whereof there is great plenty; and they are as large of their kinds as ever I ſaw.

There are two ſorts of Cotton-trees, one is call'd the Red, the other the White Cotton-tree. The white Cotton-tree grows like an Oak, but generally [165] much bigger and taller than our Oaks: The body is ſtraight and clear from knots or boughs to the very head: there it ſpreads forth many great Limbs juſt like an Oak. The Bark is ſmooth and of a grey co⯑lour: the Leaves are as big as a large Plumb Leaf, jagged at the edge; they are oval, ſmooth, and of a dark green colour. Some of theſe Trees have their bodies much bigger, 18 or 20 foot high, than nearer the ground, being big bellied like Nine-pins. They bear a very fine ſort of Cotton, called Silk Cotton. When this Cotton is ripe the Trees appear like our Apple-trees in England, when full of Bloſſoms. If I do not miſtake, the Cotton falls down in November or December: then the Ground is covered white with it. This is not ſubſtantial and continuous, like that which grows upon the Cotton-ſhrubs, in Plantati⯑ons, but like the Down of Thiſtles; ſo that I did never know any uſe made of it in the Weſt-Indies, be⯑cauſe it is not worth the Labour of gathering it: but in the Eaſt-Indies the Natives gather and uſe it for Pillows. It hath a ſmall black Seed among it. The Leaves of this Tree fall off the begining of April; while the old Leaves are falling off the young ones ſpring out, and in a weeks time the Tree caſts off her old Robes, and is cloathed in a new pleaſant Garb. The red Cotton-tree is like the other, but hardly ſo big: it bears no Cotton, but its Wood is ſomewhat harder of the two, yet both ſorts are ſoft ſpungy Wood, fit for no uſe that I know, but only for Canoas, which being ſtraight and tall they are very good for; but they will not laſt long, eſpe⯑cially if not drawn aſhoar often and tarred; other⯑wiſe the Worm and the Water ſoon rot them. They are the biggeſt Trees, or perhaps Weeds rather, in the Weſt-Indies. They are common in the Eaſt and Weſt-Indies in good fat Land.

As the Cotton is the biggeſt Tree in the Woods, ſo the Cabbage-tree is the talleſt: The Body is not [166] very big, but very high and ſtraight. I have mea⯑ſured one in the Bay of Campeachy 120 feet long as it lay on the Ground, and there are ſome much higher. It has no Limbs nor Boughs, but at the head there are many Branches bigger than a Man's Arm. Theſe Branches are not cover'd, but flat, with Sharp edges; they are 12 or 14 foot long. A⯑bout two foot from the Trunk, the Branches ſhoot forth ſmall long Leaves, about aninch broad, which grow ſo regularly on both ſides of the Branch, that the whole Branch ſeems to be but one Leaf, made up of many ſmall ones. The Cabbage fruit ſhoots out in the midſt of theſe Branches, from the top of the Tree: it is inveſted with many young Leaves or Branches which are ready to ſpread abroad, as the old Branches drop and fall down. The Cabbage it ſelf, when it is taken out of the Leaves which it ſeems to be folded in, is as big as the ſmall of a Man's Leg, and a foot long; it is as white as Milk, and as ſweet as a Nut, if eaten raw, and it is very ſweet and wholeſom if boiled. Beſides, the Cab⯑bage it ſelf, there grow out between the Cabbage and the large Bran [...]hes, ſmall twigs, as of a Shrub, about two foot long from their Stump. At the end of thoſe twigs (which grows very thick together) there hang Berries, hard and round, and as big as a Cherry. Theſe the Trees ſhed every year, and they are very good for Hogs: for this reaſon the Spaniards fine any who ſhall cut down any of theſe in their Woods. The Body of the Tree is full of rings round it, half a foot aſunder from the bottom to the top. The Bark is thin and brittle; the Wood is black and very hard, the heart or middle of the Tree is white Pith. They do not climb to get the Cabbage, but cut them down; for ſhould they ga⯑ther it off the Tree as it ſtands, yet its head being gone it ſoon dies. Theſe Trees are much uſed by Planters in Jamaica, to board the ſides of the Houſes [167] for it is but ſplitting the Trunk into 4 parts with an Axe, and there are ſo many Planks. Thoſe Trees appear very pleaſant, and they beautifie the whole Wood, ſpreading their green Branches above all other Trees.

All this Country is ſubject to very great Rains, ſo that this part of Peru pays for the dry weather which they have about Lima and all that Coaſt. I believe that is one reaſon why the Spaniards have made ſuch ſmall diſcoveries, in this and other Rivers on this Coaſt. Another reaſon may be, becauſe it lies not ſo directly in their way; for they do not Coaſt it a⯑long in going from Panama to Lima, but firſt go Weſt⯑ward as far as to the Keys or Iſles of Cobaya, for a Weſterly wind, and from thence ſtand over towards Cape St. Franciſco, not touching any where uſually till they come to Manta near Cape St. Lorenzo. In their return indeed from Lima to Panama, they may keep along the Coaſt hereabouts; but then their Ships are always laden, whereas the light Ships that go from Panama, are moſt at leiſure to make diſco⯑veries. A third reaſon may be the wildneſs and enmity of all the Natives on this Coaſt, who are naturally fortified by their Rivers and vaſt Woods, from whence with their Arrows they can eaſily an⯑noy any that ſhall land there to aſſault them. At this River particularly there are no Indians live with⯑in 6 leagues of the Sea, and all the Country ſo far is full of impaſſable Woods, ſo that to get at the Indians, or the Mines and Mountains, there is no way but by rowing up the River; and if any who are Enemies to the Natives attempt this, (as the Spaniards are always hated by them) they muſt all the way be expoſed to the Arrows of thoſe who would lie purpoſely in Ambuſh in the Woods for them. Theſe wild Indians have ſmall Plantations of Maiz, and good Plantain-Gardens; for Plantains are their chiefeſt food. They have alſo a few Fowls and Hogs.

[168] It was to this River that we were bound to ſeek, for Canoas, therefore the 26th ſuppoſing our ſelves to be abreſt of it, we went from our Ships with 4 Canoas. The 27th day in the Morning we entered at half Flood into the ſmaller branch of that River, and rowed up 6 leagues before we met any Inhabitants. There we found two ſmall Huts thatched with Pal⯑meto Leaves. The Indians ſeeing us rowing towards their Houſes, got their Wives and little ones, with their Houſhold-ſtuff, into their Canoas, and paddled away faſter than we could row; for we were forced to keep in the middle of the River becauſe of our Oars, but they with their Paddles kept cloſe under the Banks, and ſo had not the ſtrength of the ſtream againſt them, as we had. Theſe Huts were cloſe by the River on the Eaſt ſide of it, juſt againſt the end of the Iſland. We ſaw a great many other Houſes a league from us on the other ſide of the Ri⯑ver; but the main ſtream into which we were now come, ſeemed to be ſo ſwift, that we were afraid to put over, for fear we ſhould not be abe to get back again. We found only a Hog, ſome Fowls and Plantains, in the Huts: We killed the Hog and the Fowls, which were dreſt preſently. Their Hogs they got (as I ſuppoſe) from the Spaniards by ſome accident, or from ſome Neighbouring Indians who converſe with the Spaniards; for this that we took was of their European kind, which the Spaniards have introduced into America very plentifully, eſpecially into the Iſlands Jamaica, Hiſpaniola, and Cuba above all, being very largely ſtored with them where they feed in the Woods in the day time, and at night come in at the ſounding of a Conch-ſhell, and are put up in their Crauls or Pens, and yet ſome turn wild, which nevertheleſs are often decoy⯑ed in by the other, which being all marked, when⯑ever they ſee an unmarked Hog in the Pen they know it is a wild one, and ſhoot him preſently. [169] Theſe Crauls I have not ſeen on the Continent; where the Spaniards keep them tame at home. A⯑mong the wild Indians, or in their Woods, are no Hogs, but Pecary and Warree, a ſort I have men⯑tioned before.

After we had refreſhed our ſelves, we returned towards the Mouth of the River. It was the even⯑ing when we came from thence, and we got to the Rivers Mouth the next Morning before Day: Our Ships when we left them were order'd to go to Gal⯑lo, where they were to ſtay for us. Gallo is a ſmall uninhabited Iſland, lying in between two and 3 De⯑grees North Lat. It lieth in a wide Bay about 3 Leagues from the Mouth of the River Tomaco, and 4 Leagues and half from a ſmall Indian Village called Tomaco. The Iſland Gallo is of an indifferent heighth; it is cloathed with very good Timber-Trees, and is therefore often viſited with Barks from Guiaquil and other places; for moſt of the Timber carry'd from Guiaquil to Lima, is firſt fetch'd from Gallo. There is a Spring of good Water at the N. E. end; at that place there is a ſmall fine ſandy Bay, where there is good landing. The Road for Ships is againſt this Bay, where there is good ſecure riding in 6 or 7 fathom Water; and here Ships may careen. It is but ſhoal Water all about this Iſland; yet there is a Channel to come in at, where there is no leſs than 4 fathom Water: You muſt go in with the Tide of Flood, and come out with Ebb, ſounding all the way.

Tomaco is a large River that takes its Name from an Indian Village ſo called: It is reported to ſpring from the rich Mountains about Quito. It is thick inhabited with Indians; and there are ſome Spani⯑ards that live there, who traffick with the Indians for Gold. It is ſhoal at the Mouth of the River, yet Barks may enter.

[170] This Village Tomaco is but ſmall, and is ſeated not far from the Mouth of the River. It is a place to entertain the Spaniſh Merchants that come to Gallo to load Timber, or to traffick with the Indians for Gold. At this place one Doleman, with 7 or 8 Men more, once of Captain Sharp's Crew, were killed in the year 1680. From the branch of the River St. Jago, where we now lay, to Tomaco, is about 5 leagues; the land low, and full of Creeks, ſo that Canoas may paſs within Land through thoſe Creeks, and from thence into Tomaco River.

The 28th day we left the River of St. Jago. croſ⯑ſing ſome Creeks in our way with our Canoas; and came to an Indian Houſe, where we took the [...] and all his Family. We ſtaid here till the Aftern [...], and then rowed towards Tomaco, with the M [...] this Houſe for our Guide. We arrived at Tomaco [...] ⯑bout 12 a clock at Night. Here we took all the I [...] ⯑habitants of the Village, and a Spaniſh Knight, call'd Don Diego de Pinus. This Knight came in a Ship from Lima to lade Timber. The Ship was riding in a Creek about a mile off, and there were only one Spaniard and 8 Indians aboard. We went in a Ca⯑noa with 7 Men and took her; ſhe had no Goods, but 12 or 13 Jars of good Wine, which we took out, and the next day let the Ship go. Here an Indian Canoa came aboard with three Men in her. Theſe Men could not ſpeak Spaniſh, neither could they di⯑ſtinguiſh us from Spaniards; the wild Indians uſual⯑ly thinking all white Men to be Spaniards. We gave them 3 or four Callabaſhes of Wine, which they freely drank. They were ſtraight bodies, and well limb'd Men, of a mean heighth; their Hair black, long viſag'd, ſmall Noſes and Eyes; and were thin fac'd, ill look'd Men, of a very dark copper colour. A little before Night Captain Swan and all of us re⯑turned to Tomaco, and left the Veſſel to the Seamen. The 31ſt day two of our Canoas, who had been [171] up the River of Tomaco, returned back again to the Village. They had rowed 7 or 8 leagues up, and found but one Spaniſh Houſe, which they were told did belong to a Lady who liv'd at Lima; ſhe had Servants here that traded with the Indians for Gold; but they ſeeing our Men coming, ran away; yet our Men found there ſeveral Ounces of Gold in Cal⯑labaſhes.

year 1685 The firſt day of January 1685. we went from To⯑maco towards Gallo. We carried the Knight with us, and too ſmall Canoas which we took there, and while we were rowing over, one of our Canoas took a Pacquet-Boat that was ſent from Panama to Lima. The Spaniards threw the Pacquet of Letters overboard with a Line and a Buoy to it, but our Men ſeeing it took it up, and brought the Letters, and all the Priſoners aboard our Ships, that were then at an anchor at Gallo. Here we ſtaid till the 6th day, reading the Letters, by which we underſtood that the Armada from Old Spain was come to Porta⯑bel; and that the Preſident of Panama had ſent this Pacquet on purpoſe to haſten the Plate Fleet thither from Lima.

We were very joyful of this News, and therefore ſent away the Pacquet-Boat with all her Letters; and we altered our former Reſolutions of going to La⯑velia. We now concluded to careen our Ships as ſpeedily as we could, that we might be ready to intercept this Fleet. The propereſt place that we could think on for doing it, was among the Kings Iſlands or Pearl Keys, becauſe they are near Panama, and all Ships bound to Panama from the Coaſt of Lima paſs by them; ſo that being there we could not poſſibly miſs the Fleet. According to theſe Re⯑ſolutions we ſailed the next Morning, in order to ex⯑ecute what we deſigned. We were 2 Ships and 3 Barks in Company, viz. Captain Davis, Captain Swan, a Fireſhip, and 2 ſmall Barks, as Tenders; [172] one on Captain Davis's Ship, the other on Captai [...] Swan's. We weighed before day, and got out all bu [...] Captain Swan's Tender, which never budged; fo [...] the Men were all aſleep when we went out, and th [...] Tide of Flood coming on before they waked, w [...] were forced to ſtay for them till the next day.

The 8th day in the Morning we deſcried a Sai [...] to the Weſt of us; the Wind was at South, and w [...] chaſed her, and before noon took her. She was a Ship of about 90 Tun laden with Flower, ſhe cam [...] from Truxillo, and was bound to Panama. Thi [...] Ship came very opportunely to us, for Flower be⯑gan to grow ſcarce, and Captain Davis his Me [...] grudg'd at what was given to Captain Swan; who [...] as I ſaid before, had none but what he had from Captain Davis.

We jogged on after this with a gentle Gale to⯑wards Gorgonia, an Iſland lying about 25 Leagues from the Iſland Gallo. The 9th day we anchored at Gorgonia, on the Weſt-ſide of the Iſland, in 38 fa⯑thom, clean Ground, not 2 Cables length from the Shoar. Gorgonia is an uninhabited Iſland, in lat. a⯑bout 3 degrees North; It is a pretty high Iſland, and very remarkable, by reaſon of 2 Saddles, or riſings and fallings on the top. It is about 2 Leagues long, and a League broad; and it is 4 Leagues from the Main: At the Weſt-end is another ſmall Iſland The Land againſt the Anchoring-place is low; there is a ſmall ſandy Bay and good landing. The Soil or Mould of it is black and deep in the low Ground, but on the ſide of the high Land it is a kind of a red Clay. This Iſland is very well clothed with large Trees of ſeveral ſorts, that are flouriſhing and green all the Year. It is very well watred with ſmall Brooks that Iſſue from the high Land. Here are a great many little black Monkeys, ſome Indian Conies, and a few Snakes, which are all the Land Animals that I know there. It is reported of this [173] Iſland that it rains on every day in the Year more or leſs; but that I can diſprove: However, it is a very wet Coaſt, and it rains abundantly here all the Year long. There are but few fair days; for there is little difference in the Seaſons of the Year between the wet and dry; only in that Seaſon which ſhould be the dry time, the Rains are leſs frequent and more moderate than in the wet Seaſon, for then it pours as out of a Sieve. It is deep Water, and no anchoring any where about this Iſland, only at the Weſt-ſide: The Tide riſeth and falleth 7 or 8 foot up and down. Here are a great many Perewincles and Muſcles to be had at low Water. Then the Monkeys come down by the Sea-ſide and catch them; digging them out of their Shells with their Claws.

Here are Pearl-Oyſters in great plenty: They grow to the looſe Rocks, in 4, 5, or 6 fathom Wa⯑ter by Beards, or little ſmall Roots, as a Muſcle: Theſe Oyſters are commonly flatter and thinner than other Oyſters; otherwiſe much alike in ſhape. The Fiſh is not ſweet nor very wholſom; it is as ſlimy as a Shell-Snail: they taſte very copperiſh, if eaten raw, and are beſt boiled. The Indians who gather them for the Spaniards, hang the Meat of them on Strings like Jews-ears, and dry them before they eat them. The Pearl is found at the head of the Oyſter, lying between the Meat and the Shell. Some will have 20 or 30 ſmall Seed-Pearl, ſome none at all, and ſome will have 1 or 2 pretty large ones. The inſide of the Shell is more glorious than the Pearl it ſelf. I did never ſee any in the South Seas but here. It is reported there are ſome at the South-end of Callifornia. In the Weſt-Indies, the Ran⯑cho Reys, or Rancheria, ſpoken of in Chap. 3. is the place where they are found moſt plentifully. 'Tis ſaid there are ſome at the Iſland Margarita, [...] St. Auguſtin, a Town in the Gulph of Florida, [...] [174] the Eaſt-Indies, the Iſland Ainam, near the South-end of China, is ſaid to have plenty of theſe Oyſters, more productive of large round Pearl than thoſe in other places. They are found alſo in other parts of the Eaſt-Indies, and on the Perſian Coaſt.

At this Iſland Gorgona, we rummaged our Prize, and found a few Boxes of Marmalade, and 3 or 4 Jars of Brandy, which were equally ſhared between Capt. Davis, Capt. Swan, and their Men. Here we fill'd all our Water, and Capt. Swan furniſhed him⯑ſelf with Flower: Afterward we turned aſhore a great many Priſoners, but kept the chiefeſt to put them aſhore in a better place.

The 13th day we ſailed from hence toward the Kings Iſlands. We were now 6 Sail, 2 Men of War, 2 Tenders, a Fire-ſhip and the Prize. We had but little Wind, but what we had was the common Trade at South. The Land we ſailed by on the Main, is very low towards the Sea-ſide, but in the Country there are very high Mountains.

The 16th day we paſſed by Cape Corrientes. This Cape is in lat. 5 d. 10 m. it is high bluff Land, with 3 or 4 ſmall Hillocks on the top. It appears at a di⯑ſtance like an Iſland. Here we found a ſtrong Cur⯑rent running to the N. but whether it be always ſo, I know not. The day after we paſſed by the Cape, we ſaw a ſmall white Iſland, which we chaced, ſup⯑poſing it had been a Sail, till coming near we found our Error.

The 21ſt day we ſaw Point Garachina. This Point is in lat. 7 d. 20 m. North; it is pretty high Land, rocky, and deſtitute of Trees; yet within Land it is woody. It is fenced with Rocks againſt the Sea. Within the Point, by the Sea, at low Water, you may find ſtore of Oyſters and Muſcles.

The Kings Iſlands, or Pearl Keys, are about 12 leagues diſtant from this Point. Between Point Gara⯑china and them, there is a ſmall low flat barren Iſland [175] called Gallera, at which Captain Harris was ſharing with his Men the Gold he took in his pillaging Sancta Maria, which I ſpake of a little before, when on a ſudden 5 Spaniſh Barks, fitted out on purpoſe at Pa⯑nama, came upon him; but he fought them ſo ſtoutly with one ſmall Bark he had, and ſome few Canoas, boarding their Admiral particularly, that they were all glad to leave him. By this Iſland we anchored and ſent our Boats to the Kings Iſland for a good careening place.

The Kings Iſlands are a great many low Woody Iſlands, lying N. W. by N. and S. E. by S. They are about 7 leagues from the Main, and 14 leagues in length, and from Panama about 12 leagues. Why they are called the Kings Iſlands, I know not; they are ſometimes and moſtly in Maps, called the Pearl Iſlands. I cannot imagine wherefore they are called ſo, for I did never ſee one Pearl Oyſter about them, nor any Pearl Oyſter-ſhells; but on the other Oy⯑ſters I have made many a Meal there: The Norther-moſt Iſland of all this range is called Pachea, or Pa⯑cheque. This is but a ſmall Iſland, diſtant from Pa⯑nama 11 or 12 leagues. The Southermoſt of them is called St. Pauls. Beſides theſe two I know no more that are called by any particular Name, tho' there are many that far exceed either of the two in big⯑neſs. Some of theſe Iſlands are planted with Plan⯑tains and Bonanas; and there are Fields of Rice on others of them. The Gentlemen of Panama, to whom they belong, keep Negroes there to plant, Weed, and Huſband the Plantations. Many of them, eſpecially the largeſt, are wholly untill'd, yet very good fat land, full of large Trees. Theſe unplanted Iſlands ſhelter many Runaway-Negroes, who abſcond in the Woods all day, and in the night boldly pillage the Plantain Walks. Betwixt theſe Iſlands and the Main is a Channel of 7 or 8 leagues wide; there is good depth of Water, and good Anchoring all the [176] way. The Iſlands border thick on each other; yet they make many ſmall narrow deep Channels, fit only for Boats to paſs between moſt of them. At the S. E. end, about a league from St. Paul's Iſland, there is a good place for Ships to careen, or hale aſhore It is ſurrounded with the Land, and hath a good deep Channel on the North ſide to go in at. The Tide riſeth here about 10 foot perpendicular.

We brought our Ships into this place the 25th day, but were forced to tarry for a Spring Tide before we could have Water enough to clean them; there⯑fore we firſt clean'd our Barks, that they might cruiſe before Panama, while we lay here. The 27th day our Barks being clean we ſent them out with 20 Men in each. The 4th day after, they returned with a Prize laden with Maiz, or Indian Corn, Salt-Beef and Fowls. She came from Lavelia, and was bound to Panama. Lavelia is a Town we once de⯑ſigned to attempt. It is pretty large, and ſtands on the Bank of a River on the North ſide of the Bay of Panama 6 or 7 leagues from the Sea.

Nata is another ſuch Town ſtanding in a Plain near another Branch of the ſame River. In theſe Towns, and ſome others on the ſame Coaſt, they breed Hogs, Fowls, Bulls and Cows, and plant Maiz purpoſely for the ſupport of Panama, which is ſup⯑plied with Proviſion moſtly from other Towns and the Neigbouring Iſlands.

The Beef and Fowl our Men took, came to us in a good time, for we had eaten but little Fleſh ſince we left the Iſland Plata. The Harbour where we careen'd was incompaſſed by three Iſlands, and our Ships rode in the middle. That on which we haled our Ships aſhore, was a little Iſland on the North ſide of the Harbour. There was a fine ſmall ſandy Bay, but all the reſt of the Iſland was invironed with Rocks, on which at low Water we did uſe to gather Oy⯑ſters, Clams, Muſcles and Limpits. The Clam is [177] a ſort of Oyſter which grows ſo faſt to the Rock, that there is no ſeparating it from thence, therefore we did open it where it grows, and take out the Meat, which is very large, fat and ſweet. Here are a few common Oyſters, ſuch as we have in Eng⯑land, of which ſort I have met with none in theſe Seas, but here, at Point Garachina, at Puna, and on the Mexican Coaſt, in the lat. of 23 d. North. I have a Manuſcript of Mr. Teat, Capt. Swan's chief Mate, which gives an account of Oyſters plenti⯑fully found in Port St. Julian, on the Eaſt-ſide and ſomewhat to the North of the Streights of Magel⯑lan; but there is no mention made of what Oyſters they are. Here are ſome Guanoes but we found no other ſort of Land-Animal. Here are alſo ſome Pigeons and Turtle-Doves. The reſt of the Iſlands that incompaſs this Harbour had of all theſe ſorts of Creatures. Our Men therefore did every day go over in Canoas to them to Fiſh, Fowl or Hunt for Guanoes; but having one Man ſurprized once by ſome Spaniards lying there in ambuſh, and carried off by them to Panama, we were after that more cauti⯑ous of ſtraggling.

The 14th day of Feb. 1685. we made an end of cleaning our Ship, fill'd all our Water, and ſtock'd our ſelves with Fire-wood. The 15th day we went out from among the Iſlands, and anchored in the Channel between them and the Main, in 25 fathom Water, ſoft Oazy Ground. The Plate-Fleet was not yet arrived; therefore we intended to cruiſe before the City of Panama, which is from this place about 25 leagues. The next day we ſailed towards Pana⯑ma, paſſing in the Channel between the Kings Iſlands and the Main. It is very pleaſant ſailing here, ha⯑ving the Main on one ſide, which appears in divers forms. It is beautified with many ſmall Hills, cloath'd with woods of divers ſorts of Trees, which are al⯑ways green and flouriſhing. There are ſome few [178] ſmall high Iſlands within a league of the Main, ſcat⯑tering here and there one: Theſe are partly Woody, partly bare; and they, as well as the Main, appear very pleaſant. The Kings Iſlands are on the other ſide of this Channel, and make alſo a lovely proſ⯑pect as you ſail by them. Theſe, as I have already noted, are low and flat, appearing in ſeveral Shapes, according as they are naturally formed by many ſmall Creeks and Branches of the Sea. The 16th day we anchored at Pacheque, in 17 fathom Water, about a leagne from the Iſland, and ſailed from thence the next day, with the Wind at N. N. E. directing our courſe towards Panama.

When we came abreſt of Old Panama we anchor'd, and ſent our Canoa aſhore with our Priſoner Don Diego de Pinas, with a Letter to the Governour, to treat about an Exchange for our Man they had ſpi⯑rited away, as I ſaid; and another Captain Harris left in the River of St. Maria the year before, coming over Land. Don Diego was deſirous to go on this Errand in the Name, and with the Conſent of the reſt of our Spaniſh Priſoners; but by ſome accident he was killed before he got aſhore, as we heard afterwards.

Old Panama was formerly a famous place, but it was taken by Sir Henry Morgan about the year 1673. and at that time great part of it was burned to Aſhes, and it was never re-edified ſince.

New Panama is a very fair City, ſtanding cloſe by the Sea, about 4 Mile from the Ruines of the Old Town. It gives Name to a large Bay which is fa⯑mous for a great many navigable Rivers, ſome where⯑of are very rich in Gold; it is alſo very pleaſantly ſprinkled with Iſlands, that are not only profitable to their Owners, but very delightful to the Paſ⯑ſengers and Seamen that ſail by them; ſome of which I have already deſcribed. It is incompaſſed on the backſide with a pleaſant Country, which is full of ſmall Hills and Valleys, beautified with many [179] Groves and Spots of Trees, that appear in the Sa⯑vannahs like ſo many little Iſlands. This City is all compaſſed with a high Stone Wall; the Houſes are ſaid to be of Brick. Their Roofs appear higher than the top of the City Wall. It is beautified with a great many fair Churches and Religious Houſes, be⯑ſides the Preſidents Houſe, and other eminent Build⯑ings; which altogether make one of the fineſt objects that I did ever ſee, in America eſpecially. There are a great many Guns on her Walls, moſt of which look toward the Land. They had none at all againſt the Sea, when I firſt entred thoſe Seas with Captain Sawkins, Captain Coxon, Captain Sharp, and others; for till then they did not fear any Enemy by Sea: but ſince then they have planted Guns clear round. This is a flouriſhing City by reaſon it is a thorough⯑fair for all imported or exported Goods and Trea⯑ſure, to and from all Parts of Peru and Chili; whereof their Store-Houſes are never empty. The Road alſo is ſeldom or never without Ships. Beſides once in 3 years, when the Spaniſh Armada comes to Portobel, then the Plate-Fleet alſo from Lima comes hither with the King's Treaſure, and abundance of Merchant Ships full of Goods and Plate; at that time the City is full of Merchants and Gentlemen; the Seamen are buſie in landing the Treaſure and Goods, and the Carriers, or Caravan Maſters, im⯑ployed in carrying it over land on Mules (in vaſt droves every day) to Portobel, and bringing back European Goods from thence: Tho' the City be then ſo full, yet during this heat of Buſineſs there is no hiring of an ordinary Slave under a Piece of Eight a day; Houſes, alſo Chambers, Beds and Victuals are then extraordinary dear.

Now I am on this Subject, I think it will not be amiſs to give the Reader an account of the Progreſs of the Armada from Old Spain, which comes thus every three Years into the Indies. Its firſt arrival is [180] at Carthagena, from whence, as I have been told, an Expreſs is immediately ſent over Land to Lima, thro' the Southern Continent, and another by Sea to Porto⯑bel, with two Pacquets of Letters, one for the Vice-roy of Lima, the other for the Vice-roy of Mexico. I know not which wa [...] that of Mexico goes after its arrival at Portobel, whether by land or Sea: But I believe [...] S [...]a to La Vera Cruz. That for Lima is ſent by Land to Panama, and from thence by Sea to Lima.

Upon mention of theſe Pacquets I ſhall digreſs yet a little further, and acquaint my Reader, that before my firſt going over into the South Seas with Captain Sharp (and indeed before any Privateers (at leaſt ſince Drake and Oxengham) had gone that way which we afterwards went, except La Sound, a French Cap⯑tain, who by Captain Wright's Inſtructions had ven⯑tured as far as Cheapo Town with a Body of Men, but was driven back again) I being then on board Capt. Coxen, in company with 3 or 4 more Privateers, about 4 leagues to the Eaſt of Portobel, we took the Pacquets bound thither from Carthagena. We open'd a great quantity of the Merchants Letters, and found the Contents of many of them to be very ſurprizing, the Merchants of ſeveral parts of Old Spain thereby in⯑forming there Correſpondents of Panama, and elſe⯑where, of a certain Prophecy that went about Spain that year, the Tenour of which was, That there would be Engliſh Privateers that Year in the Weſt-In⯑dies, who would make ſuch great Diſcoveries, as to open a Door into the South Seas; which they ſup⯑poſed was faſteſt ſhut: And the Letters were accor⯑dingly full of Cautions to their Friends to be very watchful and careful of their Coaſts.

This Door they ſpake of we all concluded muſt b [...] the Paſſage over Land through the Country of th [...] Indians of D [...] who were a little before this becom [...] our Friends, and [...]ad lately fallen out with the Spani⯑ards, breaking off the Intercourſe which for ſom [...] [181] time they had with them: and upon calling al⯑ſo to mind the frequent Invitations we had from thoſe Indians a little before this time, to paſs through their Country, and fall upon the Spaniards in the South Seas, we from hence forward began to enter⯑tain ſuch thoughts in earneſt, and ſoon came to a Reſolution to make thoſe Attempts which we after⯑wards did, with Capt. Sharp, Coxen, &c. So that the taking theſe Letters gave the firſt life to thoſe bold Undertakings: and we took the advantage of the fears the Spaniards were in from that Prophecy, or probable Conjecture, or whatever it were; for we ſealed up moſt of the Letters again, and ſent them aſhoar to Portobel.

The occaſion of this our late Friendſhip with thoſe Indians was thus. About 15 years before this time, Capt. Wright being cruiſing near that Coaſt, and go⯑ing in among the Samballoes Iſles to ſtrike Fiſh and Turtle, took there a young Indian Lad as he was pad⯑dling about in a Canoa. He brought him aboard his Ship, and gave him the name of John Gret, cloathing him, and intending to breed him among the Engliſh. But his Moſkito Strikers, taking a fancy to the Boy, begg'd him of Capt. Wright, and took him with them at their return into their own Country, where they taught him their Art, and he married a Wife among them, and learnt their Language, as he had done ſome broken Engliſh while he was with Capt Wright, which he improved among the Moſkitoes, who correſponding ſo much with us, do all of them ſmatter Engliſh after a ſort; but his own Language he had almoſt forgot. Thus he lived among them for many years; till about 6 or 8 months before our ta⯑king theſe Letters, Capt. Wright being again among the Samballoes, took thence another Indian Boy about 10 or 12 years old, the Son of a Man of ſome ac⯑count among thoſe Indians; and wanting a Striker, he went away to the Moſkito's Country, where he [182] took John Gret, who was now very expert at it. John Gret was much pleaſed to ſee a Lad there of his own Country, and it came into his mind to perſuade Capt. Wright upon this occaſion, to endeavour a Friend⯑ſhip with thoſe Indians; a thing our Privateers had long coveted, but never durſt attempt, having ſuch dreadful Apprehenſions of their numbers and fierce⯑neſs: But John Gret offered the Captain that he would go aſhoar and negotiate the matter; who ac⯑cordingly ſent him in his Canoa till he was near the ſhoar, which of a ſudden was covered with Indians, ſtanding ready with their Bows and Arrows. John Gret, who had only a Clout about his middle, as the faſhion of the Indians is, leapt then out of the Boat and ſwam, the Boat retiring a little way back; and the Indians aſhoar ſeeing him in that habit, and hearing him call to them in their own Tongue, (which he had recovered by converſing with the Boy lately taken) ſuffered him quietly to land, and gathered all about to hear how it was with him. He told them particularly, that he was one of their Countrymen, and how he had been taken many years ago by the Engliſh, who had uſed him very kindly; that they were miſtaken in being ſo much afraid of that Nation, who were not Enemies to them, but to the Spaniards: to confirm this, he told them how well the Engliſh treated another young Lad of theirs, they had lately taken, ſuch a ones Son; for this he had learnt of the Youth, and his Father was one of the Company that was got together on the ſhoar. He perſuaded them therefore to make a League with theſe friendly People, by whoſe help they might be able to quell the Spaniards; aſſuring alſo the Father of the Boy, that if he would but go with him to the Ship, which they ſaw at anchor at an Iſland there (it was Golden Iſland, the Eaſtermoſt of the Samballoes, a place where there is good ſtriking for Turtle) he ſhould have his Son reſtored to him, [183] and they might all expect a very kind reception. Upon theſe Aſſurances 20 or 30 of them went off preſently, in 2 or 3 Canoas laden with Plantains, Bo⯑nanoes, Fowls, &c. And Capt. Wright having treated them on board, went aſhoar with them, and was en⯑tertained by them, and preſents were made on each ſide. Captain Wright gave the Boy to his Father in a very handſome Engliſh Dreſs, which he had cauſed to be made purpoſely for him; and an Agreement was immediately ſtruck up between the Engliſh and theſe Indians, who invited the Engliſh through their Coun⯑try into the South Seas.

Purſuant to this Agreement, the Engliſh, when they came upon any ſuch Deſign, or for Traffick with them, were to give a certain Signal which they pitcht upon, whereby they might be known. But it hap⯑pened that Mr. la Sound, the French Captain ſpoken of a little before, being then one of Captain Wright's Men, learnt this Signal, and ſtaying aſhoar at Petit-Guavres, upon Captain Wright's going thither ſoon after, who had his Commiſſion from thence, he gave the other French there ſuch an account of the Agreement before-mentioned, and the eaſineſs of entring the South Seas thereupon, that he got at the head of about 120 of them, who made that unſuc⯑ceſsful attempt upon Cheapo, as I ſaid, making uſe of the Signal they had learnt for paſſing the Indians Country, who at that time could not diſtinguiſh ſo well between the ſeveral Nations of the Europeans, as they can ſince.

From ſuch ſmall beginnings aroſe thoſe great ſtirs that have been ſince made over the South Seas, viz. from the Letters we took, and from the Friendſhip contracted with theſe Indians by means of John Gret. Yet this Friendſhip had like to have been ſtifled in its Infancy; for within few Months after an Engliſh trading Sloop came on this Coaſt from Jamaica, and John Gret, who by this time had advanced himſelf a [...] [184] a Grandee among theſe Indians, together with 5 or 6 more of that Quality, went off to the Sloop in their long Gowns, as the cuſtom is for ſuch to wear among them. Being received aboard, they expected to find every thing friendly, and John Gret talkt to them in Engliſh; but theſe Engliſh Men, having no know⯑ledge at all of what had happened, endeavoured to make them Slaves (as is commonly done) for upon carrying them to Jamaica, they could have ſold them for 10 or 12 Pound a piece. But John Gret, and the reſt, perceiving this, leapt all over-board, and were by the others killed every one of them in the Water. The Indians on ſhoar never came to the knowledge of it; if they had it would have endangered our Cor⯑reſpondence. Several times after upon our conver⯑ſing with 'em, they enquired of us what was become of their Country-men: but we told them we knew not, as indeed it was a great while after that we heard this Story; ſo they concluded the Spaniards had met with them, and killed, or taken them.

But to return to the account of the progreſs of the Armada which we left at Cartagena: After an ap⯑pointed ſtay there of about 60 days, as I take it, it goes thence to Portobel, where it lies 30 days, and no longer. Therefore the Vice-roy of Lima, on notice of the Armada's arrival at Cartagena, immediately ſends away the Kings Treaſure to Panama, where it is land⯑ed, and lies ready to be ſent to Portobel upon the firſt news of the Armada's arrival there. This is the rea⯑ſon partly of their ſending Expreſſes ſo early to Lima, that upon the Armada's firſt coming to Portobel, the Treaſure and Goods may lie ready at Panama, to be ſent away upon the Mules, and it requires ſome time for the Lima Fleet to unlade, becauſe the Ships ride not at Panama, but at Perica, which are 3 ſmall Iſlands 2 leagues from thence. The King's Treaſure is ſaid to amount commonly to about 24000000 of Pieces of Eight: beſides abundance of Merchants [185] Money. All this Treaſure is carried on Mules, and there are large Stables at both places to lodge them. Sometimes the Merchants to ſteal the Cuſtom pack up Money among Goods, and ſend it to Venta de Cruzes on the River Chagre; from thence down the River, and afterwards by Sea to Portobel: in which paſſage I have known a whole Fleet of Periago's and Canoas taken. The Merchants who are not ready to ſail by the 30th day after the Armada's arrival, are in danger to be left behind, for the Ships all weigh the 30th day preciſely, and go to the Harbors Mouth: yet ſometimes, on great importunity, the Admiral may ſtay a week longer; for it is impoſſible that all the Merchants ſhould get ready, for want of Men. When the Armada departs from Portobel, it re⯑turns again to Cartagena, by which time all the King's Revenue which comes out of the Country is got rea⯑dy there. Here alſo meets them again a great Ship call'd the Pattache, one of the Spaniſh Galeons, which before their firſt arrival at Cartagena goes from the reſt of the Armada on purpoſe to gather the Tribute of the Coaſt, touching at the Magarita's, and other places in her way thence to Cartagena, as Punta de Guaira Moracaybo, Riode la Hacha, and Sancta Martha; and at all theſe places takes in Treaſure for the King. Af⯑ter the ſet ſtay at Cartagena, the Armada goes away to the Havana in the Iſle of Cuba, to meet there the Flota, which is a ſmall number of Ships that go to la Vera Cruz, and there takes in the effects of the City and Country of Mexico, and what is brought thither in the Ship which comes thither every year from the Philip⯑pine Iſlands; and having join'd the reſt at the Havana, the whole Armada ſets ſail for Spain through the Gulf of Florida. The Ships in the South Seas lie a great deal longer at Panama before they return to Lima. The Merchants and Gentlemen which come from Lima, ſtay as little time as they can at Portobel, which is at the beſt but a ſickly place, and at this time is very full [186] of Men from all parts. But Panama, as it is not over⯑charg'd with Men ſo unreaſonably as the other, tho' very full, ſo it enjoys a good Air, lying open to the Sea-wind; which riſeth commonly about 10 or 11 a Clock in the Morning, and continues till 8 or 9 a Clock at night: then the Land-wind comes, and blows till 8 or 9 in the morning.

There are no Woods nor Marſhes near Panama, but a brave dry Champion Land, not ſubject to Fogs nor Miſts. The wet ſeaſon begins in the latter end of May, and continues till November. At that time the Sea-breezes are at S. S. W. and the Land-winds at N. At the dry Seaſon the Winds are moſt betwixt the E. N. E. and the N. Yet off in the Bay they are commonly at South, but of this I ſhall be more particular in my Chapter of Winds in the Appendix, The Rains are not ſo exceſſive about Panama it ſelf, as on either ſide of the Bay; yet in the Months of June, July and Auguſt, they are ſevere enough. Gen⯑tlemen that come from Peru to Panama, eſpecially in theſe Months, cut their Hair cloſe to preſerve them from Fevers; for the place is ſickly to them, becauſe they come out of a Country which never hath any Rains or Fogs, but enjoys a conſtant Serenity; but I am apt to believe this City is healthy enough to any other People. Thus much for Panama.

The 20th day we went and anchored within a league of the Iſlands Perico (which are only 3 little barren rocky Iſlands) in expectation of the Preſident of Panama's Anſwer to the Letter, I ſaid, we ſent him by Don Diego, treating about exchange of Priſoners; this being the day on which he had given us his Pa⯑role to return with an anſwer. The 21ſt day we took another Bark laden with Hogs, Fowl, Salt Beef, and Moloſſoes: ſhe came from Lavelia and was going to Panama. In the afternoon we ſent another Letter a⯑ſhoar by a young Maſtiſo (a mixtbreed of Indians and Europeans) directed to the Preſident, and 3 or 4 Co⯑pies [187] of it to be diſperſed abroad among the common People. This Letter, which was full of Threats, to⯑gether with the young Man's managing the buſineſs, wrought ſo powerfully among the common People, that the City was in an uproar. The Preſident im⯑mediately ſent a Gentleman aboard, who demanded the Flower-Prize that we took off of Gallo, and all the Priſoners, for the Ranſom of our two Men: but our Captains told him they would exchange Man for Man. The Gentleman ſaid he had not Orders for that, but if he would ſtay till the next day he would bring the Governours Anſwer. The next day he brought aboard our two Men, and had about 40 Priſoners in exchange.

The 24th day, we run over to the Iſland Tabago. Tabago is in the Bay, and about 6 Leagues South of Panama. It is about 3 mile long, and 2 broad, a high mountainous Iſland. On the North-ſide it declines with a gentle deſcent to the Sea. The Land by the Sea is of a black Mold and deep; but towards the top of the Mountain it is ſtrong and dry. The North⯑ſide of this Iſland makes a very pleaſant ſhew; it ſeems to be a Garden of Fruit incloſed with many high Trees; the chiefeſt Fruits are Plantains and Bona⯑na's. They thrive very well from the foot to the middle of it; but thoſe near the top are but ſmall, as wanting moiſture. Cloſe by the Sea there are many Coco-Nut-Trees, which make a very pleaſant ſight. Within the Coco-Nut-Trees there grow many Mam⯑met Trees. The Mammet is a large, tall, and ſtrait-bodied Tree, clean, without Knots or Limbs, for 6 or 70 foot, or more. The Head ſpreads abroad into many ſmall Limbs, which grow pretty thick, and cloſe together. The Bark is of a dark grey colom, thick and rough, full of large Chops. The Fruit is bigger than Quince; it is round, and cover'd with a thick Rind, of a grey colour: When the Fruit is ripe the Rind is yellow and though; and it will then peel [188] off like Leather; but before it is ripe it is brittle: the juice is then white and clammy; but when ripe, not ſo. The ripe Fruit under the Rind is yellow as a Carrot, and in the middle are two large rough ſtones, flat, and each of them much bigger than an Almond. The Fruit ſmells very well, and the taſte is anſwera⯑ble to the ſmell. The S. W. end of the Iſland hath never been cleared, but is full of Fire-wood, and Trees of divers ſorts. There is a very fine ſmall Brook of freſh Water, that ſprings out of the ſide of the Mountain, and gliding thro' the Grove of Fruit-trees, falls into the Sea on the North-ſide. There was a ſmall Town ſtanding by the Sea, with a Church at one end, but now the biggeſt part of it is deſtroyed by the Privateers. There is good anchoring right a⯑gainſt the Town, about a mile from the ſhoar, where you may have 16 or 18 fathom Water, ſoft oazy ground. There is a ſmall Iſland cloſe by the N. W. end of this called Tabogilla, with a ſmall Channel to paſs between. There is another woody Iſland a⯑bout a mile on the N. E. ſide of Tabago, and a good Channel between them: this Iſland hath no Name that ever I heard.

While we lay at Tabago, we had like to have had a ſcurvy trick plaid us by a pretended Merchant from Panama, who came, as by ſtealth, to traffick with us privately; a thing common enough with the Spaniſh Merchants, both in the North and South Seas, notwith⯑ſtanding the ſevere Prohibitions of the Governours; who yet ſometimes connive at it, and will even trade with the Privateers themſelves. Our Merchant was by agreement to bring out his Bark laden with Goods in the night, and we to go and anchor at the South of Perico. Out he came, with a Fireſhip inſtead of a Bark, and approached very near, haling us with the Watch-word we had agreed upon. We ſuſpecting the worſt, call'd to them to come to an anchor, and upon their not doing ſo fir'd at them: when immediately [189] their Men going out into the Canoas, ſet fire to their Ship, which blew up, and burnt cloſe by us; ſo that we were forc'd to cut our Cables in all haſte, and ſcamper away as well as we could.

The Spaniard was not altogether ſo politick in ap⯑pointing to meet us at Perico, for there we had Sea⯑room; whereas had he come thus upon us at Tabago, the Land-wind bearing hard upon us as it did, we muſt either have been burnt by the Fireſhip, or upon looſing our Cables have been driven aſhore: But I ſuppoſe they choſe Perico rather for the Scene of their Enterprize, partly becauſe they might there beſt ſculk among the Iſlands, and partly becauſe, if their Exploit fail'd, they could thence eſcape beſt from our Canoas to Panama, but 2 leagues off.

During this Exploit, Capt. Swan (whoſe Ship was leſs than ours, and ſo not ſo much aim'd at by the Spaniards) lay about a mile off, with a Canoa at the Buoy of his Anchor, as fearing ſome Treachery from our pretended Merchant; and a little before the Bark blew up, he ſaw a ſmall Float on the Water, and, as it appear'd, a Man on it, making towards his Ship; but the Man dived, and diſappear'd of a ſudden, as thinking probably that he was diſcovered.

This was ſuppoſed to be one coming with ſome combuſtible Matter to have ſtuck about the Rudder. For ſuch a Trick Captain Sharp was ſerved at Co⯑quimbo, and his Ship had like to have been burnt by it, if, by meer accident, it had not been diſcover'd: I was then aboard Captain Sharp's Ship. Captain Swan ſeeing the Blaze by us, cut his Cables as we did, his Bark did the like; ſo we kept under Sail all the Night, being more ſcar'd than hurt. The Bark that was on Fire drove burning towards Taba⯑go; but after the firſt blaſt ſhe did not burn clear, only made a ſmother, for ſhe was not well made, though Capt. Bond had the framing and manage⯑ment of it.

[190] This Capt. Bond was he of whom I made mention in my 4th Chapter. He, after his being at the Iſles of Cape Verd, ſtood away for the South Seas, at the inſtigation of one Richard Morton, who had been with Capt. Sharp in the South Seas. In his way he met with Capt. Eaton, and they two conſorted a day or two: At laſt Morton went aboard Capt. Eaton, and perſwaded him to loſe Capt. Bond in the Night, which Capt. Eaton did, Morton continuing aboard of Capt. Eaton, as finding his the better Ship. Capt. Bond thus loſing both his Conſort Eaton, and Mor⯑ton his Pilot, and his Ship being but an ordinary Sailer, he deſpaired of getting into the South Seas; and had plaid ſuch tricks among the Caribbee Iſles, as I have been told, that he did not dare to appear at any of the Engliſh Iſlands. Therefore he perſwa⯑ded his Men to go to the Spaniards, and they con⯑ſented to do any thing that he ſhould propoſe: So he preſently ſteered away into the Weſt-Indies, and the firſt place where he came to an Anchor was at Portabel. He preſently declared to the Governour, that there were Engliſh Ships coming into the South Seas, and that if they queſtion'd it, he offered to be kept a Priſoner, till time ſhould diſcover the truth of what he ſaid; but they believed him, and ſent him away to Panama, where he was in great eſteem. This ſeveral Priſoners told us.

The Spaniards of Panama could not have fitted out their Fire-ſhip without this Capt. Bond's aſſi⯑ſtance; for it is ſtrange to ſay how groſly ignorant the Spaniards in the Weſt-Indies, but eſpecially in the South Seas, are of Sea-affairs. They build in⯑deed good Ships, but this is a ſmall matter: for any Ship of a good bottom will ſerve for theſe Seas on the South Coaſt. They rig their Ships but untowardly, have no Guns, but in 3 or 4 of the King's Ships, and are meanly furniſhed with Warlike Proviſions, and much at a loſs for the making any Fireſhips or other [191] leſs uſual Machines. Nay, they have not the ſenſe to have their Guns run within the ſides upon their diſ⯑charge, but have Platforms without for the Men to ſtand on to charge them; ſo that when we come near we can fetch them down with ſmall ſhot out of our Boats. A main reaſon of this is, that the Native Spa⯑niards are too proud to be Seamen, but uſe the Indians for all thoſe Offices: One Spaniard, it may be, going in the Ship to command it, and himſelf of little more knowledge than thoſe poor ignorant Creatures: nor can they gain much Experience, ſeldom going far off to Sea, but coaſting along the Shores.

But to proceed: In the Morning when it was light we came again to an anchor cloſe by our Buoys, and ſtrove to get our Anchors again; but our Buoy-Ropes being rotten, broke. While we were puzling about our Anchors, we ſaw a great many Canoas full of Men paſs between Tabago and the other Iſland. This put us into a new Conſternation: We lay ſtill ſome time, till we ſaw that they came directly towards us, then we weighed and ſtood towards them: And when we came within hale, we found that they were Engliſh and French Privateers come out of the North Seas through the Iſthmus of Darien. They were 280 Men in 28 Canoas; 200 of them French; the reſt Engliſh. They were commanded by Capt. Gronet, and Capt. Lequie. We preſently came to an Anchor again, and all the Canoas came aboard. Theſe Men told us, that there were 180 Engliſh Men more, un⯑der the command of Capt. Towneley, in the Coun⯑try of Darien, making Canoas (as theſe men had been) to bring them into theſe Seas. All the Engliſh men that came over in this Party were immediately en⯑tertain'd by Capt. Davis and Capt Swan in their own Ships; and the French men were order'd to have our Flower-Prize to carry them, and Capt. Gronet, being the eldeſt Commander, was to command them there; and thus they were all diſpoſed of to their [192] Hearts content. Capt. Gronet, to retalliate this kind⯑neſs, offer'd Capt. Davis and Capt. Swan, each of them a new Commiſſion from the Governour of Pe⯑tit Guavres. It hath been uſual for many years paſt, for the Governor of P. Cuavres to ſend blank Com⯑miſſions to Sea by many of his Captains, with orders to diſpoſe of them to whom they ſaw convenient. Thoſe of Petit Guavres by this means making them⯑ſelves the Sanctuary and Aſylum of all People of de⯑ſperate Fortunes, and increaſing their own Wealth, and the Strength and Reputation of their Party thereby. Capt. Davis accepted of one, having be⯑fore only an old Commiſſion, which fell to him by Inheritance at the deceaſe of Capt. Cook; who took it from Capt. Triſtian, together with his Bark, as is before mentioned. But Capt. Swan refuſed it, ſaying, He had an Order from the Duke of York, neither to give offence to the Spaniards, nor to re⯑ceive any affront from them; and that he had been injured by them at Baldivia, where they had kill'd ſome of his Men, and wounded ſeveral more; ſo that he thought he had a lawful Commiſſion of his own to right himſelf. I never read any of theſe French Commiſſions while I was in theſe Seas, nor did I then know the import of them; but I have learnt ſince, that the Tenour of them is, to give a Liberty to Fiſh, Fowl, and Hunt. The occaſion of this is, that the Iſland Hiſpaniola, where the Garriſon of Petit-Guavres is, belongs partly to the French, and partly to the Spaniards; and in time of Peace theſe Com⯑miſſions are given as a Warrant to thoſe of each ſide to protect them from the adverſe Party: But in ef⯑fect the French do not reſtrain them to Hiſpaniola, but make them a pretence for a general ravage in any part of America by Sea or Land.

Having thus diſpoſed of our Aſſociates, we in⯑tended to ſail towards the Gulf of St. Michael, to ſeek Capt. Townley; who by this time we thought [193] might be entering into theſe Seas. Accordingly the ſecond day of March, 1685, we ſailed from hence towards the Gulph of St. Michael. This Gulf lies near 30 leagues from Panama, towards the S. E. The way thither from Panama is, to paſs between the Kings Iſlands and the Main. It is a place where many great Rivers having finiſhed their courſes are ſwallowed up in the Sea. It is bounded on the S. with Point Garachina, which lieth in North lat. 6 d. 40 m. and on the North ſide with Cape St. Lorenzo. Where by the way I muſt correct a groſs error in our common Maps; which giving no name at all to the South Cape, which yet is the moſt conſidera⯑ble, and is the true Point Garachina; do give that name to the North Cape, which is of ſmall remark, only for thoſe whoſe buſineſs is into the Gulf: and the name St. Lorenzo, which is the true name of this Northern Point, is by them wholly omitted; the name of the other Point being ſubſtituted into its place. The chief Rivers which run into this Gulf of St. Michael, are Santa Maria, Sambo, and Congos. The River Congos (which is the River I would have perſuaded our Men to have gone up, as their neareſt way in our Journey over Land, mentioned Chap. 1.) comes directly out of the Country, and ſwallows up many ſmall Streams that fall into it from both ſides; and at laſt looſeth it ſelf on the North ſide of the Gulf, a league within Cape St. Lorenzo. It is not very wide, but deep, and navigable ſome leagues within Land. There are Sands without it; but a Channel for Ships. 'Tis not made uſe of by the Spaniards, becauſe of the neighbourhood of Santa Maria River; where they have moſt buſineſs on ac⯑count of the Mines.

The River of Sambo ſeems to be a great River, for there is a grear tide at its mouth; but I can ſay nothing more of it, having never been in it. This River falls into the Sea on the South-ſide of the Gulf, [194] near Point Garachina. Between the Mouths of theſe 2 Rivers on either ſide, the Gulf runs in towards the Land ſomewhat narrower, and makes 5 or 6 ſmall Iſlands, which are cloathed with great Trees, green and flouriſhing all the year and good Channels be⯑tween the Iſlands. Beyond which, further in ſtill, the ſhoar on each ſide cloſes ſo near, with 2 Points of low Mangrove Land, as to make a narrow or ſtraight, ſcarce half a mile wide. This ſerves as a mouth or enterance to the Inner-part of the Gulf, which is a deep Bay 2 or 3 leagues over every way, and about the Eaſt-end thereof are the mouths of ſeveral Rivers, the chief of which is that of Santa Maria. There are many Outlets or Creeks beſides this narrow place I have deſcribed, but none navi⯑gable beſide that. For this reaſon the Spaniſh Guard-Ship, mention'd in Chap 1. choſe to lie between theſe two Points, as the only Paſſage they could imagine we ſhould attempt; ſince this is the way that the Privateers have generally taken, as the neareſt, between the North and South Seas. The River of Santa Maria is the largeſt of all the Rivers of this Gulf: It is navigable 8 or 9 leagues up, for ſo high the tide flows. Beyond that place the Ri⯑ver is divided into many Branches, which are only fit for Canoas. The tide riſes and falls in this Ri⯑ver about 18 foot.

About 6 leagues from the Rivers mouth, on the South-ſide of it, the Spaniards about 20 years ago, upon their firſt diſcovery of the Gold Mines here, built the Town Santa Maria, of the ſame name with the River. This Town was taken by Captain Coxen Captain Harris, and Captain Sharp, at their entrance into theſe Seas; it being then but newly built. Since that time it is grown conſiderable; for when Cap⯑tain Harris, the Nephew of the former, took it (as is ſaid in Chap. 6.) he found in it all ſorts of Tradeſ⯑men, with a great deal of Flower, and Wine, and [195] abundance of Iron Crows and Pickaxes. Theſe were Inſtruments for the Slaves to work in the Gold Mines; for beſides what Gold and Sand they take up together, they often find greatlumps, wedg'd be⯑tween the Rocks, as if it naturally grew there. I have ſeen a lump as big as a Hens Egg, brought by Cap⯑tain Harris from thence, (who took 120 pound there) and he told me that there were lumps a great deal bigger: but theſe they were forc'd to beat in pieces that they might divide them. Theſe lumps are not ſo ſolid, but that they have creviſes and pores full of Earth and Duſt. This Town is not far from the Mines, where the Spaniards keep a great many Slaves to work in the dry time of the year; but in the rainy Seaſon, when the Rivers do overflow, they cannot work ſo well. Yet the Mines are ſo nigh the Mountains, that as the Rivers ſoon riſe, ſo they are ſoon down again; and preſently after the rain is the beſt ſearching for Gold in the Sands; for the violent rains do waſh down the Gold into the Ri⯑vers, where much of it ſettles to the bottom and re⯑mains. Then the Native Indians who live here⯑abouts get moſt; and of them the Spaniards buy more Gold than their Slaves get by working. I have been told that they get the value of 5 Shillings a day, one with another. The Spaniards withdraw moſt of them with their Slaves during the wet Seaſon, to Panama. At this Town of St. Maria, Captain Townley was lying with his Party, making Canoas, when Captain Gronet came into the Seas; for it was then abandoned by the Spaniards.

There is another ſmall new Town at the mouth of the River, called the Scuchaderoes: It ſtands on the North ſide of the open place, at the mouth of the River of St. Maria, where there is more air than at the Mines, or at Santa Maria Town, where they are in a manner ſtifled with heat for want of air.

[196] All about theſe Rivers, eſpecially near the Sea, the Land is low, it is deep black Earth, and the Trees it produceth are extraordinary large and high. Thus much concerning the Gulf of St. Michael, whi⯑ther we were bound.

The ſecond day of March, as is ſaid before, we weighed from Perico, and the ſame night we anchor'd again at Pacheque. The third day we ſailed from thence, ſteering towards the Gulf. Captain Swan undertook to fetch off Capt. Townley and his Men: therefore he kept near the Main; but the reſt of the Ships ſtood nearer the Kings Iſlands. Captain Swan deſired this Office, becauſe he intended to ſend Let⯑ters over-land by the Indians to Jamaica, which he did; ordering the Indians to deliver his Letters to any Engliſh Veſſel in the other Seas. At 2 a clock we were again near the place where we clean'd our Ships. There we ſaw 2 Ships coming out, who proved to be Captain Townley and his Men. They were coming out of the River in the night, and took 2 Barks bound for Panama: the one was laden with Flower, the other with Wine, Brandy, Sugar, and Oyl. The Priſoners that he took declared, that the Lima Fleet was ready to ſail. We went and anchored among the Kings Iſlands, and the next day Captain Swan returned out of the River of Santa Maria, being informed by the Indians, that Captain Townley was come over to the Kings Iſlands. At this place Captain Townley put out a great deal of his Goods to make room for his Men. He diſtributed his Wine and Brandy, ſome to every Ship, that it might be drunk out, becauſe he wanted the Jars to carry Water in. The Spaniards in theſe Seas carry all their Wine, Brandy and Oyl, in Jars that hold 7 or 8 Gallons. When they lade at Piſco (a place about 40 leagues to the Southward of Lima, and fa⯑mous for Wine) they bring nothing elſe but Jars of Wine, and they ſtow one tier on the top of another [197] ſo artificially, that we could hardly do the like without breaking them: yet they often carry in this manner 1500 or 2000, or more, in a Ship, and ſel⯑dom break one. The 10th day we took a ſmall Bark that came from Guiaquil: ſhe had nothing in her but Ballaſt. The 12th day there came an In⯑dian Canoa out of the River of Santa Maria, and told us, that there were 300 Engliſh and French men more coming over-land from the North-Seas. The 15th day we met a Bark, with 5 or 6 Engliſh men in her, that belonged to Captain Knight, who had been in the South Seas 5 or 6 Months, and was now on the Mexican Coaſt. There he had ſpied this Bark; but not being able to come up with her in his Ship, he detach'd theſe 5 or 6 Men in a Canoa, who took her, but when they had done could not recover their own Ship again, loſing company with her in the night; and therefore they came into the Bay of Panama, intending to go over-land back into the North Seas, but that they luckily met with us: for the Iſthmus of Darien was now become a common Road for Privateers to paſs between the North and South Seas at their pleaſure. This Bark of Captain Knight's had in her 40 or 50 Jars of Brandy: ſhe was now commanded by Mr. Henry More; but Captain Swan intending to promote Captain Harris, cauſed Mr. More to be turned out, alledging, that it was ve⯑ry likely theſe Men were run away from their Commander. Mr. More willingly reſigned her, and went aboard of Captain Swan, and became one of his Men.

It was now the latter end of the dry Seaſon here; and the Water at the Kings or Pearl Iſlands, of which there was plenty when we firſt came hither, was now dried away. Therefore we were forced to go to Point Garachina, thinking to Water our Ships there. Captain Harris being now Com⯑mander of the new Bark, was ſent into the River [198] of Santa Maria, to ſee for thoſe Men that the Indi⯑ans told us of, whilſt the reſt of the Ships ſailed to⯑wards Point Garachina; where we arrived the 21ſt day, and anchored 2 mile from the Point, and found a ſtrong Tide running out of the River Sambo. The next day we run within the Point, and anchored in 4 fathom at low Water. The Tide riſeth here 8 or 9 foot: the Flood ſets N. N. E. the Ebb S. S. W. The Indians that inhabit in the River Sambo came to us in Canoas, and brought Plantains and Bonanoes. They could not ſpeak nor under⯑ſtand Spaniſh; therefore I believe they have no Commerce with the Spaniards. We found no freſh Water here neither; ſo we went from hence to Porto-Pinas, which is 7 leagues S. by W. from hence.

Porto-Pinas lieth in lat. 7 d. North. It is ſo called, becauſe there are many Pine-trees growing there. The Land is pretty high, riſing gently as it runs in⯑to the Country. This Country near the Sea is all covered with pretty high Woods: the Land that bounds the Harbor is low in the middle, but high and rocky on both ſides. At the mouth of the Har⯑bor there are 2 ſmall high Iſlands, or rather barren Rocks. The Spaniards in their Pilot Books com⯑mend this for a good Harbor; but it lieth all open to the S. W. Winds, which frequently blow here in the wet Seaſon: beſide, the Harbor within the Iſlands is a place of but ſmall extent, and hath a very narrow going in; what depth of Water there is in the Harbor I know not.

The 25th day we arrived at this Harbor of Pines, but did not go in with our Ship, find⯑ing it but an ordinary place to lie at. We ſent in our Boats to ſearch it, and they found a ſtream of good Water running into the Sea; but there were ſuch great ſwelling Surges came into the Harbor, that we could not conveniently fill our Water there. [199] The 26th day we returned to Point Garachina again. In our way we took a ſmall Veſſel laden with Cacao: ſhe came from Guiaquil. The 29th day we arrived at Point Garachina: There we found Cap⯑tain Harris, who had been in the River of Santa Maria; but he did not meet the Men that he went for. Yet we was informed again by the Indians, that they were making Canoas in one of the branches of the River of Santa Maria Here we ſhared our Cacao lately taken.

Becauſe we could not fill our water here, we de⯑ſigned to go to Tabago again, where we were ſure to be ſupplied. Accordingly, on the 30th day we ſet ſail, being now 9 Ships in company; and had a ſmall wind at S. S. E. The firſt day of April, be⯑ing in the Channel between the Kings Iſlands and the Main, we had much Thunder, Lightning, and ſome Rain: This Evening we anchored at the Iſland Pacheque, and immediately ſent 4 Canoas before us to the Iſland Tabago to take ſome Priſo⯑ners for information, and we followed the next day. The 3d day in the evening we anchored by Pe⯑rica, and the next morning went to Tabago: where we found our 4 Canoas. They arrived there in the night, and took a Canoa that came (as is uſual) from Panama for Plantains. There were in the Ca⯑noa 4 Indians and a Mulata. The Mulata, becauſe he ſaid he was in the Fireſhip that came to burn us in the night, was immediately hanged. Theſe Pri⯑ſoners confirmed, that one Capt. Bond, an Engliſh Man, did command her.

Here we filled our Water, and cut Firewood; and from hence we ſent 4 Canoas over to the Main, with one of the Indians lately taken to guide them to a Sugar-work: for, now we had Cacao, we wanted Sugar to make Chocolate. But the chief⯑eſt of their buſineſs was to get Coppers, for each Ship having now ſo many Men, our Pots would [200] not boil Victuals faſt enough, though we kept them boiling all the day. About 2 or 3 days after they returned aboard with 3 Coppers.

While we lay here Captain Davis his Bark went to the Iſland Otoque. This is another inhabited Iſland in the Bay of Panama; not ſo big as Tabago, yet there are good Plantain-walks on it, and ſome Negroes to look after them. Theſe Negroes rear Fowls and Hogs for their Maſters, who live at Pana⯑ma, as at the Kings Iſlands. It was for ſome Fowls or Hogs that our Men went thither; but by acci⯑dent they met alſo with an Expreſs, that was ſent to Panama with an account, that the Lima Fleet was at Sea. Moſt of the Letters were thrown over⯑board and loſt; yet we found ſome that ſaid poſi⯑tively, that the Fleet was coming with all the ſtrength that they could make in the Kingdom of Peru; yet were ordered not to fight us, except they were forc'd to it: (though afterwards they choſe to fight us, having firſt landed their Treaſure at Lavelia) and that the Pilots of Lima had been in conſultation what courſe to ſteer to miſs us.

For the ſatisfaction of thoſe who may be curious to know, I have here inſerted the Reſolutions taken by the Committee of Pilots, as one of our compa⯑ny tranſlated them out of the Spaniſh of two of the Letters we took. The firſt Letter as follows.

The Letter is obſcure: But the Reader muſt make what he can of it. The Directions in the other Letter were to this effect.

The laſt Letter ſuppoſes the Fleet's ſetting out from Malabrigo, in about 8 deg. South Lat. (as the other doth its going immediately from Lima, 4 deg. further South) and from hence is that Caution given of avoiding Lobos, as near Malabrigo, in their [202] uſual way to Panama, ahd hardly to be kept out of ſight, as the Winds are thereabouts: yet to be avoid⯑ed by the Spaniſh Fleet at this time, becauſe as they had twice before heard of the Privateers lying at Lobos de la Mar, they knew not but at that time we might be there in expectation of them.

The 10th day we ſailed from Tabago towards the Kings Iſland again, becauſe our Pilots told us, that the King's Ships did always come this way. The 11th day we anchored at the place where we ca⯑reen'd. Here we found Captain Harris, who had gone a ſecond time into the River of Santa Maria, and fetched the body of Men that laſt came over Land, as the Indians had informed us: but they fell ſhort of the number they told us of. The 29th day we ſent 250 Men in 15 Canoas to the River Cheapo, to take the Town of Cheapo. The 21ſt day all our Ships, but Captain Harris, who ſtaid to clean his Ships, followed after. The 22d day we arriv'd at the Iſland Chepelio.

Chepelio is the pleaſanteſt Iſland in the Bay of Pa⯑nama: It is but 7 Leagues from the City of Panama, and a League from the Main. This Iſland is about 2 mile long, and almoſt ſo broad; it is low on the North-ſide, and riſeth by a ſmall aſcent towards the South-ſide. The Soil is yellow, a kind of Clay. The high ſide is ſtony; the low Land is planted with all ſorts of delicate Fruits, viz. Sapadilloes, Avogato-pears, Mammees, Mammee-Sappota's, Star-apples, &c. The middle of the Iſland is plan⯑ted with Plantain-Trees, which are not very large, but the Fruit extraordinary ſweet.

The Sapadillo-tree is as big as a large Pear-tree, the Fruit much like to a Bergoma-pear, both in co⯑lour, ſhape and ſize; but on ſome Trees the Fruit is a little longer. When it is green or firſt gathered, the Juice is white and clammy, and it will ſtick like glew; then the Fruit is hard; but after it hath been [203] gathered 2 or 3 days, it grows ſoft and juicy, and then the Juice is clear as Spring-Water, and very ſweet; in the midſt of the Fruit are 2 or 3 black Stones or Seeds, about the bigneſs of a Pumkin⯑ſeed: This is an excellent Fruit.

The Avogato Pear-tree is as big as moſt Pear-trees, and is commonly pretty high; the Skin or Bark black, and pretty ſmooth; the Leaves large, of an oval ſhape, and the Fruit as big as a large Limon. It is of a green colour till it is ripe, and then it is a little yellowiſh. They are ſeldom fit to eat till they have been gathered 2 or 3 days; then they become ſoft, and the Skin or Rind will peel off. The ſubſtance in the inſide is green, or a little yel⯑lowiſh, and as ſoft as Butter. Within the ſubſtance there is a Stone as big as a Horſe-Plumb. This Fruit hath no taſte of it ſelf, and therefore 'tis uſu⯑ally mixt with Sugar and Lime-juice, and beaten together in a Plate; and this is an excellent Diſh. The ordinary way is to eat it with a little Salt and a roaſted Plantain; and thus a Man that's hungry, may make a good Meal of it. It is very whol⯑ſome eaten any way. It is reported that this Fruit provokes to Luſt, and therefore is ſaid to be much eſteemed by the Spaniards: and I do believe they are much eſteemed by them, for I have met with plenty of them in many places in the North-Seas, where the Spaniards are ſettled, as in the Bay of Campeachy, on the Coaſt of Cartagena; and the Coaſt of Caraccos; and there are ſome in Jamaica, which were planted by the Spaniards when they poſ⯑ſeſſed that Iſland.

The Mammee-Sappota-Tree is different from the Mammee deſcribed at the Iſland Tabago in this Chapter. It is not ſo big or ſo tall, neither is the Fruit ſo big or ſo round. The Rind of the Fruit is thin and brittle; the inſide is a deep red, and it has a rough flat long Stone. This is accounted the prin⯑cipal [204] Fruit of the Weſt-Indies. It is very pleaſant and wholeſome. I have not ſeen any of theſe on Jamai⯑ca; but in many places in the Weſt-Indies among the Spaniards. There is another ſort of Mammee-tree, which is called the wild Mammee: This bears a Fruit which is of no value, but the Tree is ſtraight, tall, and very tough, and therefore principally uſed for making Maſts.

The Star-Apple-tree grows much like the Quince-Tree, but much bigger. It is full of Leaves, and the Leaf is broad, of an oval ſhape, and of a very dark green colour. The Fruit is as big as a large Apple, which is commonly ſo cover'd with Leaves, that a Man can hardly ſee it. They ſay this is a good Fruit; I did never taſte any, but have ſeen both of the Trees and Fruit in many place on the Main, on the North-ſide of the Continent, and in Jamaica. When the Spaniards poſſeſs'd that Iſland, they planted this and other ſorts of Fruit, as the Sapadillo, Avogato-Pear, and the like; and of theſe Fruits there is ſtill in Jamaica in thoſe Plan⯑tations that were firſt ſettled by the Spaniards, as at the Angels, at 7 Mile Walk, and 16 Mile Walk. There I have ſeen theſe Trees which were planted by the Spaniards, but I did never ſee any Improvement made by the Engliſh, who ſeem in that little cu⯑rious. The Road for Ships is on the North-ſide, where there is good anchoring half a mile from the ſhoar. There is a Well cloſe by the Sea on the North ſide, and formerly there were 3 or 4 Houſes cloſe by it, but now they are deſtroyed. This Iſland ſtands right againſt the mouth of the River Cheapo.

The River Cheapo ſprings out of the Mountains near the North ſide of the Country, and it being penn'd up on the South ſide by other Mountains, bends its courſe to the Weſtward between both, till finding a paſſage on the S. W. it makes a kind of a half circle; and being ſwell'd to a conſidera⯑ble [205] bigneſs, it runs with a ſlow motion into the Sea, 7 leagues from Panama. This River is very deep and about a quarter of a mile broad; but the mouth of it is choak'd up with Sands, ſo that no Ships can enter, but Barks may. There is a ſmall Spaniſh Town of the ſame name within 6 Leagues of the Sea: it ſtands on the left hand going from the Sea. This is it which I ſaid Captain La Sound attempted. The Land about it is champion, with many ſmall Hills cloathed with Woods; but the biggeſt part of the Country is Savannah. On the South-ſide of the River it is all Woodland for many leagues together. It was to this Town that our 250 Men were ſent. The 24th day they returned out of the River, ha⯑ving taken the Town without any oppoſition: but they found nothing in it. By the way going thi⯑ther they took a Canoa, but moſt of the Men eſcaped aſhoar upon one of the Kings Iſlands: She was ſent out well appointed with armed Men to watch our motion. The 25th day Captain Harris came to us, having cleaned his Ship. The 26th day we went again towards Tabago; our Fleet now, upon Captain Harris joining us again, conſiſted of 10 Sail. We arrived at Tabago the 28th day: there our Priſoners were examin'd concerning the ſtrength of Panama; for now we thought our ſelves ſtrong enough for ſuch an Enterprize, being near 1000 Men. Out of theſe on occaſion, we could have landed 900: but our Priſoners gave us ſmall Encon⯑ragement to it, for they aſſured us, that all the ſtrength of the Country was there, and that many Men were come from Portobel, beſides its own In⯑habitants, who of themſelves were more in number than we. Theſe reaſons, together with the ſtrength of the place (which hath a high Wall) deterr'd us from attempting it. While we lay here at Tabago, ſome of our Men burnt the Town on the Iſland.

[206] The 4th of May we ſailed hence again bound for the Kings Iſlands, and there we continued cruiſing from one end of theſe Iſlands to the other: till on the 22d day, Capt. Davis and Capt. Gronet, went to Pacheque, leaving the reſt of the Fleet at anchor at St. Paul's Iſland. From Pacheque we ſent 2 Canoas to the Iſland Chepelio, in hopes to get a Priſoner there. The 25th day our Canoas return'd from Che⯑pelio, with three Priſoners which they took there: They were Seamen belonging to Panama, who ſaid that Proviſion was ſo ſcarce and dear there, that the poor were almoſt ſtarved; being hindred by us from thoſe common and daily ſupplies of Plantains, which they did formerly enjoy from the Iſlands; eſpecially from thoſe two of Chepelia and Tabago. That the Preſident of Panama had ſtrictly ordered, that none ſhould adventure to any of the Iſlands for Plantains; but neceſſity had obliged them to treſpaſs againſt the Preſident's Order. They far⯑ther reported, that the Fleet from Lima was ex⯑pected every day; for it was generally talked that they were come from Lima: and that the report at Panama was, that King Charles II. of England was dead, and that the Duke of York was crowned King. The 27th day Capt. Swan and Capt. Townley, al⯑ſo came to Pacheque, where we lay, but Captain Swan's Bark was gone in among the Kings Iſlands for Plantains. The Iſland Pacheque, as I have before related, is the Northermoſt of the Kings Iſlands. It is a ſmall low Iſland about a League round. On the South-ſide of it there are 2 or 3 ſmall Iſlands, nei⯑ther of them half a mile round. Between Pacheque and theſe Iſlands is a ſmall Channel not above 6 or 7 paces wide, and about a Mile long. Through this Captain Townley made a bold run, being preſt hard by the Spaniards in the fight I am going to ſpeak of, though he was ignorant whether there was a ſufficient depth of Water or not. On the Eaſt-ſide [207] of this Channel all our Fleet lay waiting for the Lima Fleet, which we were in hopes would come this way.

The 28th day we had a very wet morning, for the Rains were come in, as they do uſually in May, or June, ſooner or later; ſo that May is here a very uncertain month. Hitherto, till within a few days we had good fair weather, and the Wind at N. N. E. but now the weather was altered, and the Wind at S. S. W.

However about eleven a Clock it cleared up, and we ſaw the Spaniſh Fleet about 3 leagues W. N. W. from the Iſland Pacheque, ſtanding cloſe on a Wind to the Eaſt-ward; but they could not fetch the Iſland by a league. We were riding a league S. E. from the Iſland, between it and the Main; only Captain Gronet was about a mile to the Northward of us near the Iſland; he weighed ſo ſoon as they came in ſight, and ſtood over for the Main; and we lay ſtill expecting when he would tack and come to us: but he took care to keep himſelf out of harms way.

Captain Swan and Townley came aboard of Cap⯑tain Davis to order how to engage the Enemy, who we ſaw came purpoſely to fight us, they being in all 14 Sail, beſides Periagoes, rowing with 12 and 14 Oars apiece. Six Sail of them were Ships of good force: firſt the Admiral 48 Guns, 450 Men; the Vice-Admiral 40 Guns, 400 Men; the Rear-Admiral 36 Guns, 360 Men; a Ship of 24 Guns, 300 Men; one of 18 Guns, 250 Men; and one of eight Guns, 200 Men; 2 great Fireſhips, 6 Ships only with ſmall Arms, having 800 Men on board them all; beſides 2 or 3 hundred Men in Periagoes. This Account of their Strength we had afterwards from Captain Knight, who being to the Windward on the Coaſt of Pern, took Priſoners, of whom he had this Information, being what they brought [208] from Lima. Beſides theſe Men, they had alſo ſom [...] hundreds of Old Spain Men that came from Portobe [...] and met them at Lavelia, from whence they now came: and their Strength of Men from Lima wa [...] 3000 Men, being all the ſtrength they could mak [...] in that Kingdom; and for greater Security, they had firſt landed their Treaſure at Lavelia.

Our Fleet conſiſted of 10 Sail: firſt Captain Da⯑vis 36 Guns, 156 Men, moſt Engliſh; Captain Swan 16 Guns, 140 Men all Engliſh: Theſe were the only Ships of force that we had; the reſt having none but ſmall Arms. Captain Townley had 110 Men, all Engliſh. Captain Gronet 308 Men, all French. Captain Harris 100 Men, moſt Engliſh. Captain Branly 36 Men, ſome Engliſh ſome French. Davis his Tender 8 Men; Swan's Tender 8 Men; Townley's Bark 80 Men; and a ſmall Bark of thirty Tuns made a Fireſhip, with a Canoas Crew in her. We had in all 960 Men. But Captain Gronet came not to us till all was over, yet we were not diſ⯑couraged at it, but reſolved to fight them; for be⯑ing to Windward of the Enemy, we had it at our choice, whether we would fight or not. It was 3 a Clock in the afternoon when we weighed, and being all under ſail, we bore down right afore the wind on our Enemies, who kept cloſe on a Wind to come to us; but night came on without any thing, beſide the exchanging of a few ſhot on each ſide. When it grew dark the Spaniſh Admiral put out a light, as a ſignal for his Fleet to come to an Anchor. We ſaw the light in the Admirals top, which continued about half an hour, and then it was taken down. In a ſhort time after we ſaw the light again, and being to Windward we kept under ſail, ſuppoſing the light had been in the Ad⯑mirals top; but as it proved, this was only a ſtra⯑tagem of theirs; for this light was put out the ſe⯑cond time at one of their Barks Topmaſt-head, and [209] then ſhe was ſent to Leeward; which deceived us: for we thought ſtill the Light was in the Admiral's Top, and by that means thought our ſelves to wind⯑ward of them.

In the Morning therefore, contrary to our ex⯑pectation, we found they had got the Weather-gage of us, and were coming upon us with full Sail; ſo we ran for it, and after a running Fight all day, and ha⯑ving taken a turn almoſt round the Bay of Panama, we came to an Anchor again at the Iſle of Pacheque, in the very ſame place from whence we ſet out in the Morning.

Thus ended this days Work, and with it all that we had been projecting for 5 or 6 Months; when inſtead of making our ſelves Maſters of the Spaniſh Fleet and Treaſure, we were glad to eſcape them; and owed that too, in a great meaſure to their want of Courage to purſue their Advantage.

The 30th day in the Morning when we looked out we ſaw the Spaniſh Fleet all together 3 leagues to Leeward of us at an Anchor. It was but little Wind till 10 a Clock, and then ſprung up a ſmall Breeze at South, and the Spaniſh Fleet went away to Panama. What loſs they had I know not; we loſt but one Man: And having held a Conſult, we re⯑ſolved to go to the Keys of Quibo or Cohaya, to ſeek Capt. Harris, who was forc'd away from us in the Fight; that being the place appointed for our Ren⯑dezvous upon any ſuch Accident. As for Gronet, he ſaid his Men would not ſuffer him to joyn us in the Fight: But we were not ſatisfied with that ex⯑cuſe; ſo we ſuffered him to go with us to the Iſles of Quiboa, and there caſhiered our cowardly Com⯑panion. Some were for taking from him the Ship which we had given him: But at length he was ſuffered to keep it with his Men, and we ſent them away in it to ſome other place.

CHAP. VIII.

ACcording to the Reſolutions we had taken, we ſet out June the firſt, 1685, paſſing be⯑tween [211] Point Garachina and the Kings Iſlands. The Wind was ot S. S. W. rainy Weather, with Torna⯑does of Thunder and Lightning. The 3d day we paſſed by the Iſland Chuche, the laſt remainder of the Iſles in the Bay of Panama. This is a ſmall, low, round, woody Iſland, uninhabited; lying 4 leagues S. S. W. from Pacheca.

In our paſſage to Quibo. Captain Branly loſt his Main-Maſt; therefore he and all his Men left his Bark, and came aboard Captain Davis his Ship. Captain Swan alſo ſprung his Main-top-Maſt, and got up another; but while he was doing it, and we were making the beſt of our way, we loſt ſight of him, and were now on the North ſide of the Bay; for this way all Ships muſt paſs from Panama, whether bound towards the Coaſt of Mexico or Peru. The 10th day we paſſed by Moro de Porcos, or the Mountain of Hogs. Why ſo called, I know not: It is a high round Hill on the Coaſt of Lavelia.

This ſide of the Bay of Panama runs out Weſterly to the Iſlands of Quibo; there are on this Coaſt ma⯑ny Rivers and Creeks, but none ſo large as thoſe on the South ſide of the Bay. It is a Coaſt that is partly mountainous, partly low Land, and very thick of Woods bordering on the Sea; but a few leagues within Land it conſiſts moſtly of Savannahs, which are ſtock'd with Bulls and Cows The Ri⯑vers on this ſide are not wholly deſtitute of Gold, though not ſo rich as the Rivers on the other ſide of the Bay. The Coaſt is but thinly inhabited, for except the Rivers that lead up to the Towns of Nata and Lavelia, I know of no other Settlement between Panama and Puebla Nova. The Spaniards may travel by Land from Panama through all the Kingdom of Mexico, as being full of Savannahs; but towards the Coaſt of Peru they cannot paſs fur⯑ther than the River Cheapo: the Land there being ſo full of thick Woods, and watered with ſo many [212] great Rivers, beſides leſs Rivers and Creeks, that the Indians themſelves, who inhabit there, cannot travel far without much trouble.

We met with very wet weather in our Voyage to Quibo; and with S. S. W. and ſometimes S. W. Winds, which retarded our Courſe. It was the 15th day of June when we arrived at Quibo, and found there Captain Harris, whom we ſought. The Iſland Quibo, or Cobaya, is in lat. 7 d. 14 m. North of the Equator. It is about 6 or 7 leagues long, and 3 or 4 broad. The land is low, except only near the N. E. end. It is all over plentifully ſtored with great tall flouriſhing Trees of many ſorts; and there is good Water on the Eaſt and North-Eaſt ſides of the Iſland. Here are ſome Deer, and plenty of pretty large black Monkies, whoſe Fleſh is ſweet, and wholeſome: beſides a few Guanoes, and ſome Snakes. I know no other ſort of Land Animal on the Iſland. There is a ſhole runs out from the S E. point of the Iſland, half a mile into the Sea; and a league to the North of this ſhole point, on the Eaſt ſide, there is a rock about a mile from the ſhore, which at the laſt quarter ebb appears above Water. Beſides theſe two places, there is no dan⯑ger on this ſide, but Ships may run within a quar⯑ter of a mile of the ſhoar, and Anchor in 6, 8, 10, or 12 fathom, good clean Sand and Oaze.

There are many other Iſlands, lying ſome on the S. W. ſide, others on the N. and N. E. ſides of this Iſland; as the Iſland Quicaro, which is a pretty large Iſland S. W. of Quibo, and on the North of it is a ſmall Iſland called the Rancheria; on which Iſland are plenty of Palma-Maria Trees. The Palma-Maria is a tall ſtraight bodied Tree, with a ſmall Head, but very unlike the Palm-tree, notwith⯑ſtanding the Name. It is greatly eſteemed for ma⯑king Maſts, being very tongh, as well as of a good length; for the grain of the Wood runs not ſtraight [213] along it, but twiſting gardually about it. Theſe Trees grow in many places of the Weſt-Indies, and are fre⯑quently uſed both by the Engliſh and Spaniards there for that uſe. The Iſlands Canales and Cantarras, are ſmall Iſlands lying on the N. E. of Rancheria. Theſe have all Channels to paſs between, and good An⯑choring about them; and they are as well ſtored with Trees and Water as Quibo. Sailing without them all, they appear to be part of the Main. The Iſland Quibo is the largeſt and moſt noted; for al⯑though the reſt have Names, yet they are ſeldom uſed only for diſtinction ſake: theſe, and the reſt of this knot, paſſing all under the common name of the Keys of Quibo. Captain Swan gave to ſeveral of theſe Iſlands, the Names of thoſe Engliſh Mer⯑chants and Gentlemen who were Owners of his Ship.

June 16th. Captain Swan came to an Anchor by us: and then our Captains conſulted about new methods to advance their Fortunes: and becauſe they were now out of hopes to get any thing at Sea, they reſolved to try what the Land would afford. They demanded of our Pilots, what Towns on the Coaſt of Mexico they could carry us to. The City of Leon being the chiefeſt in the Country (any thing near us) though a pretty way within Land, was pitch'd on. But now we wanted Canoas to Land our Men, and we had no other way but to cut down Trees, and make as many as we had oc⯑caſion for, theſe Iſlands affording plenty of large Trees fit for our purpoſe. While this was doing, we ſent 150 Men to take Puebla Nova (a Town upon the Main near the innermoſt of theſe Iſlands) to get Proviſion: It was in going to take this Town that Captain Sawkins was killed, in the year 1680. who was ſucceded by Sharp. Our Men took the Town with much eaſe, although there was more ſtrength of Men than when Captain Sawkins was kill'd. They returned again the 24th day, but got [214] no Proviſion there. They took an empty Bark in their way, and brought her to us.

The 5th day of July Captain Knight, mentioned in my laſt Chapter, came to us. He had been crui⯑ſing a great way to the Weſtward, but got nothing beſide a good Ship. At laſt, he went to the South⯑ward, as high as the Bay of Guiaquil, where he took a Bark-log, or pair of Bark-logs as we call it, laden chiefly with Flower. She had other goods, as Wine, Oyl, Brandy, Sugar, Soap, and Leather of Goat-ſkins; and he took out as much of each as he had occaſion for, and then turned her away again. The Maſter of the Float told him, that the Kings Ships were gone from Lima towards Panama: that they carried but half the Kings Treaſure with them, for fear of us, although they had all the ſtrength that the Kingdom could afford: that all the Merchants Ships which ſhould have gone with them were laden and lying at Payta, where they were to wait for further Orders. Captain Knight having but few Men, did not dare to go to Payta, where, if he had been better provided, he might have taken them all; but he made the beſt of his way into the Bay of Panama, in hopes to find us there inriched with the Spoils of the Lima Fleet; but coming to the Kings Iſlands, he had advice by a Priſoner, that we had ingaged with their Fleet, but were worſted, and ſince that made our way to the Weſtward; and therefore he came hither to ſeek us. He preſently conſorted with us, and ſet his Men to work to make Canoas. Every Ships company made for themſelves, but we all helped each other to launch them; for ſome were made a mile from the Sea.

The manner of making a Canoa is, after cutting down a large long Tree, and ſquaring the upper⯑moſt ſide, and then turning it upon the flat ſide, to ſhape the oppoſite ſide for the bottom. Then again [215] they turn her, and dig the inſide; boring alſo three holes in the bottom, one before, one in the middle, and one abaſt, thereby to gage the thickeſt of the bottom; for otherwiſe we might cut the bottom thinner than is convenient. We left the bottoms commonly about 3 Inches thick, and the ſides 2 Inches thick below, and one and an half at the top. One or both of the ends we ſharpen to a point.

Capt. Davis made two very large Canoas, one was 36 foot long, and 5 or 6 feet wide; the other 32 foot long, and near as wide as the other. In a Months time we finiſhed our Buſineſs and were rea⯑dy to ſail. Here Capt. Harris went to lay his Ship a-ground to clean her, but ſhe being old and rotten fell in pieces: And therefore he and all his Men went aboard of Capt. Davis and Capt. Swan. While we lay here we ſtruck Turtle every day, for they were now very plentiful: But from Auguſt to March here are not many. The 18th day of July, John Roſe, a Frenchman, and 14 Men more belonging to Capt. Gronet, having made a new Canoa, came in her to Capt. Davis, and deſired to ſerve under him; and Capt. Davis accepted of them, becauſe they had a Canoa of their own.

The 20th day of July we ſailed from Quibo, bend⯑ing our courſe for Ria Lexa, which is the Port for Leon, the City that we now deſigned to attempt. We were now 640 Men in 8 Sail of Ships, com⯑manded by Capt. Davis, Capt. Swan, Capt. Town⯑ley and Capt. Knight, with a Fireſhip and three Tenders, which laſt had not a conſtant Crew. We paſt out between the River Quibo and the Rancheria, leaving Quibo and Quicaro on our Larboard ſide, and the Rancheria, with the reſt of the Iſlands, and the Main on our Starboard ſide. The Wind at firſt was at South South Weſt: We coaſted along ſhore, paſſing by the Gulf of Nicoya, the Gulf of Dulce, and by the Iſland Caneo. All this Coaſt is low Land [216] overgrown with thick Woods, and there are but few inhabitants near the ſhore. As we ſailed to the Weſt⯑ward we had variable Winds, ſometimes S. W. and at W. S. W. and ſometimes at E. N. E. but we had them moſt commonly at S. W. we had a Tornado or two every day, and in the Evening or in the Night, we had Land-winds at N. N. E.

The 8th day of Auguſt, being in the lat. of 11 d. 20 m. by my obſervation, we ſaw a high Hill in the Country, towring up like a Sugar-Loaf, which bore N. E. by N. We ſuppoſed it to be Volcan Vejo, by the ſmoak which aſcended from its top; therefore we ſteered in North and made it plainer, and then knew it to be that Volcan, which is the Sea-mark for the Harbour for Ria Lexa; for, as I ſaid before in Chap⯑ter the 5th, it is a very remarkable Mountain. When we had brought this Mountain to bear N. E. we got out all our Canoas, and provided to embark into them the next day.

The 9th day in the Morning, being about 8 leagues from the ſhoar, we left our Ships under the charge of a few Men, and 520 of us went away in 31 Canoas, towing towards the Harbour of Ria Lexa. We had fair Weather and little Wind till 2 a Clock in the Afternoon, then we had a Tornado from the ſhore, with much Thunder, Lightning and Rain, and ſuch a guſt of Wind, that we were all like to be foundred. In this extremity we put right afore the Wind, every Canoas crew making what ſhift they could to avoid the Threatning Dan⯑ger. The ſmall Canoas being moſt light and buoyant, mounted nimbly over the Surges, but the great heavy Canoas lay like Logs in the Sea, ready to be ſwallowed by every foaming Billow. Some of our Canoas were half full of Water, yet kept two Men conſtantly heaving it out. The fierceneſs of the Wind continued about half an hour, and a⯑bated by degrees; and as the Wind died away, ſo [217] the fury of the Sea abated: For in all hot Countries as I have obſerved, the Sea is ſoon raiſed by the Wind, and as ſoon down again when the Wind is gone, and therefore it is a Proverb among the Sea⯑men, Up Wind, up Sea, Down Wind, down Sea. At 7 a clock in the Evening it was quiet calm, and the Sea as ſmooth as a Mill-pond. Then we tugg'd to get into the Shore, but finding we could not do it before Day, we rowed off again to keep our ſelves out of ſight. By that time it was day, we were 5 Leagues from the Land, which we thought was far enough off Shore. Here we intended to lie till the Evening, but at 3 a clock in the Afternoon we had another Tornado, more fierce than that which we had the day before. This put us in greater peril of our Lives, but did not laſt ſo long. As ſoon as the violence of the Tornado was over, we rowed in for the ſhore, and entred the Harbor in the Night: The Creek which leads towards Leon, lieth on the S. E. ſide of the Harbour. Our Pilot being very well acquainted here, carried us into the Mouth of it, but could carry us no farther till day, be⯑cauſe it is but a ſmall Creek, and there are other Creeks like it. The next Morning, aſſoon as it was light, we rowed into the Creek, which is very nar⯑row; the Land on both ſides lying ſo low, that every Tide it is overflown with the Sea. This ſort of Land produceth red Mangrove-Trees, which are here ſo plentiful and thick, that there is no paſſing thro' them. Beyond theſe Mangroves, on the firm Land, cloſe by the ſide of the River, the Spaniards have built a Breſtwork, purpoſely to hinder an Enemy from the landing. When we came in ſight of the Breſtwork, we rowed as faſt as we could to get aſhore: The noiſe of our Oars allarmed the Indians who were ſet to watch, and preſently they ran a⯑way towards the City of Leon, to give notice of our approach. We landed as ſoon as we could, and [218] marched after them: 470 Men were drawn out to march to the Town, and I was left with 59 Men more to ſtay and guard the Canoas till their return.

The City of Leon is 20 Mile up in the Country: The way to it plain and even, thro' a Champion Country of long graſſy Savannahs, and ſpots of high Woods. About 5 Mile from the Landing-place there is a Sugar-work, 3 Mile farther there is ano⯑ther, and 2 Mile beyond that, there is a fine River to ford, which is not very deep, beſides which, there is no Water in all the way, till you come to an Indian Town, which is 2 Mile before you come to the City, and from thence it is a pleaſant ſtraight ſandy way to Leon. This City ſtands in a Plain not far from a high pecked Mountain, which oftentimes caſts forth fire and ſmoak from its top. It may be ſeen at Sea, and it is called the Volcan of Leon. The Houſes of Leon are not high built, but ſtrong and large, with Gardens about them. The Walls are Stone, and the Covering of Pan-tile: There are 3 Churches and a Cathedral, which is the head Church in theſe parts. Our Countryman Mr. Gage, who travelled in theſe Parts, recommends it to the World as the pleaſanteſt place in all America, and calls it the Paradice of the Indies. Indeed if we conſider the Advantage of its Scituation, we may find it ſurpaſſing moſt places for Health and Pleaſure in America; for the Country about it is of a ſandy Soil, which ſoon drinks up all the Rain that falls, to which theſe parts are much ſubject. It is en⯑compaſſed with Savannahs; ſo that they have the benefit of the Breezes coming from any Quarter; all which makes it a very healthy place. It is a place of no great trade, and therefore not rich in Money. Their Wealth lies in their Paſtures, and Cattle, and Plantations of Sugar. It is ſaid that they make Cordage here of Hemp; but if they have any ſuch Manufactory, it is at ſome diſtance [219] from the Town, for here is no ſign of any ſuch thing.

Thither our Men were now marching; they went from the Canoas about 8 a clock. Captain Townley, with 80 of the briskeſt Men, marched be⯑fore, Captain Swan with 100 Men marched next, and Captain Davis with 170 Men marched next, and Captain Knight brought up the Rear. Captain Townley, who was near 2 mile a head of the reſt, met about 70 Horſemen 4 mile before he came to the City, but they never ſtood him. About 3 a clock Captain Townley, only with his 80 Men, en⯑tred the Town, and was briskly charged in a broad Street, with 170 or 200 Spaniſh Horſemen, but 2 or 3 of their Leaders being knock'd down, the reſt fled. Their Foot conſiſted of about 500 Men, which were drawn up in the Parade; for the Spaniards in theſe parts make a large Square in every Town, tho' the Town it ſelf be ſmall. The Square is cal⯑led the Parade: commonly the Church makes one ſide of it, and the Gentlemens Houſes with their Galleries about them, the other. But the Foot al⯑ſo ſeeing their Horſe retire, left an empty City to Captain Townley, beginning to ſave themſelves by flight. Captain Swan came in about 4 a clock. Captain Davis with his Men about 5, and Captain Knight, with as many Men as he could encourage to march, came in about 6, but he left many Men tired on the Road; theſe, as is uſual, came drop⯑ping in one or two at a time, as they were able. The next morning the Spaniards kill'd one of our tired Men: he was a ſtout old Grey-headed Man, aged about 84, who had ſerved under Oliver in the time of the Iriſh Rebellion; after which he was at Jamaica, and had followed Privateering ever ſince. He would not accept of the offer our Men made him to tarry aſhoar, but ſaid he would venture as far as the beſt of them: and when ſur⯑rounded [220] by the Spaniards, he refuſed to take Quarter, but diſcharged his Gun amongſt them, keeping a Piſtol ſtill charged, ſo they ſhot him dead at a di⯑ſtance. His name was Swan; he was a very mer⯑ry hearty old Man, and always uſed to declare he would never take Quarter: But they took Mr. Smith, who was tired alſo; he was a Merchant belonging to Captain Swan, and being carried before the Governour of Leon, was known by a Mulatta Wo⯑man that waited on him. Mr. Smith had lived ma⯑ny years in the Canaries, and could ſpeak and write very good Spaniſh, and it was there this Mulatta Woman remembred him. He being examin'd how many Men we were, ſaid 1000 at the City, and 500 at the Canoas, which made well for us at the Canoas, who ſtraggling about every day, might ea⯑ſily have been deſtroyed. But this ſo daunted the Governour, that he did never offer to moleſt our Men, although he had with him above 1000 Men, as Mr. Smith gueſſed. He ſent in a Flag of Truce about Noon, pretending to ranſom the Town, ra⯑ther than let it be burnt; but our Captains de⯑manded 300000 Pieces of Eight for its Ranſom, and as much Proviſion as would victual 1000 Men 4 Months, and Mr. Smith to be ranſomed for ſome of their Priſoners; but the Spaniards did not intend to ranſom the Town, but only capitulated day af⯑ter day to prolong time, till they had got more Men. Our Captains therefore, conſidering the di⯑ſtance that they were from the Canoas, reſolved to be marching down. The 14th day in the morning they ordered the City to be ſet on fire, which was preſently done, and then they came away: But they took more time in coming down than in go⯑ing up. The 15th day in the morning, the Spaniards ſent in Mr. Smith, and had a Gentlewoman in ex⯑change. Then our Captains ſent a Letter to the Governour, to acquaint him, that they intended [221] next to viſit Ria Lexa, and deſir'd to meet him there: they alſo releaſed a Gentleman, on his promiſe of paying 150 Beefs for his Ranſom, and to deliver them to us at Ria Lexa; and the ſame day our Men came to their Canoas; where having ſtaid all night, the next Morning we all entred our Canoas, and came to the Harbour of Ria Lexa, and in the after⯑noon our Ships came thither to an Anchor.

The Creek that leads to Ria Lexa, lieth from the N. W. part of the Harbour, and it runs in Norther⯑ly. It is about 2 Leagues from the Iſland in the Harbours Mouth to the Town; two thirds of the way it is broad, then you enter a narrow deep Creek, bordered on both ſides with Red Mangrove Trees, whoſe Limbs reach almoſt from one ſide to the other. A mile from the Mouth of the Creek it turns away Weſt. There the Spaniards have made a very ſtrong Breſtwork, fronting towards the mouth of the Creek, in which were placed 100 Soldiers to hinder us from landing; and 20 Yards below that Breſtwork there was a Chain of great Trees placed croſs the Creek, ſo that 10 Men could have kept off 500 or 1000.

When we came in ſight of the Breſtwork we fired but two Guns, and they all run away: And we were afterwards near half an hour cutting the Boom or Chain. Here we landed, and marched to the Town of Ria Lexa, or Rea Lejo, which is a⯑bout a mile from hence. This Town ſtands on a Plain by a ſmall River. It is a pretty large Town with 3 Churches, and an Hoſpital that hath a fine Garden belonging to it: beſides many large fair Houſes, they all ſtand at a good diſtance one from another, with Yards about them. This is a very ſickly place, and I believe hath need enough of an Hoſpital; for it is ſeated ſo nigh the Creeks and Swamps, that it is never free from a noiſom ſmell The Land about it is a ſtrong yellow Clay: yet [222] where the Town ſtands it ſeems to be Sand. Here are ſeveral ſort of Fruits, as Guavo's, Pine-apples, Melons, and Prickle-Pears. The Pine-apple and Melon are well known.

The Guava-Fruit grows on a hard ſcrubbed Shrub, whoſe Bark is ſmooth and whitiſh, the Branches pretty long and ſmall, the Leaf ſomewhat like the Leaf of Hazel, the Fruit much like a Pear, with a thin rind; it is full of ſmall hard Seeds, and it may be eaten while it is green, which is a thing very rare in the Indies: For moſt Fruit, both in the Eaſt or Weſt-Indies, is full of clammy, white, unſa⯑vory Juice, before it is ripe, though pleaſant enough afterwards. When this Fruit is ripe it is yellow, ſoft, and very pleaſant. It bakes as well as a Pear, and it may be coddled, and it makes good Pies. There are of divers ſorts, different in ſhape, taſte, and Colour. The inſide of ſome is yellow, of others red. When this Fruit is eaten green, it is binding, when ripe, it is looſening.

The Prickle-Pear, Buſh, or Shrub, of about 4 or 5 foot high, grows in many places of the Weſt-Indies, as at Jamaica, and moſt other Iſlands there; and on the Main in ſeveral places. This prickly Shrub delights moſt in barren ſandy Grounds; and they thrive beſt in places that are near the Sea; eſpecially where the Sand is ſaltiſh. The Tree, or Shrub, is 3 or 4 foot high, ſpreading forth ſeveral branches, and on each branch 2 or 3 leaves. Theſe leaves (if I may call them ſo) are round, as broad every way as the Palm of a Man's hand, and as thick; their ſubſtance like Houſeleek: theſe leaves are fenced round with ſtrong prickles above an inch long. The Fruit grows at the farther edge of the leaf: it is as big as a large Plumb, growing ſmall near the leaf, and big towards the top, where it opens like a Medlar. This Fruit at firſt is green like the leaf, from whence it ſprings with ſmall Prickles [223] about it; but when ripe it is of a deep red colour. The inſide is full of ſmall black Seeds, mixt with a certain red Pulp, like thick Syrup: It is very pleaſant in taſte, cooling, and refreſhing; but if a Man eats 15 or 20 of them they will colour his Water, making it look like Blood. This I have often experienced, yet found no harm by it.

There are many Sugar-works in the Country, and Eſtantions or Beef Farms: There is alſo a great deal of Pitch, Tar and Cordage, made in the Country, which is the chief of their Trade. This Town we approached without any oppoſition, and found no⯑thing but empty Houſes; beſides ſuch things as they could not, or would not carry away, which were chiefly about 500 Packs of Flower, brought hither in the great Ship that we left at Amapalla, and ſome Pitch, Tar and Cordage. Theſe things we wanted, and therefore we ſent them all aboard. Here we received 150 Beefs, promiſed by the Gentleman that was releaſed coming from Leon; beſides, we viſited the Beef-Farms every day, and the Sugar-Works, going in ſmall Companies of 20 or 30 Men, and brought away every Man his Load; for we found no Horſes, which if we had, yet they ways were ſo wet and dirty, that they would not have been ſerviceable to us. We ſtayed here from the 17th till the 24th day, and then ſome of our de⯑ſtructive Crew ſet fire to the Houſes: I know not by whoſe order, but we marched away and left them burning; at the Breſt-work we imbarked into our Canoas and returned aboard our Ships.

The 25th day Capt. Davis and Capt. Swan broke off Conſortſhip; for Capt. Davis was minded to return again on the Coaſt of Peru, but Capt. Swan deſired to go farther to the Weſt⯑ward. I had till this time been with Capt. Davis, but now left him, and went aboard of Capt. [224] Swan. It was not from any diſlike to my old Cap⯑tain, but to get ſome knowledge of the Northern Parts of this Continent of Mexico: And I knew that Capt. Swan determined to Coaſt it as far North, as he thought convenient, and then paſs over for the Eaſt-Indies; which was a way very agreeable to my In⯑clination. Capt. Townley, with his two Barks, was reſolved to keep us Company; but Capt. Knight and Capt. Harris followed Captain Davis. The 27th day in the Morning Capt. Davis with his Ships went out of the Harbour, having a freſh Land Wind. They were in Company, Capt. Davis's Ship with Capt. Harris in her; Capt. Davis's Bark and Fireſhip, and Capt. Knight in his own Ship, in all 4 Sail. Capt. Swan took his laſt farewel of him by firing 15 Guns, and he fired 11 in return of the Civility.

We ſtayed here ſome time afterwards to fill our Water and cut Fire-wood; but our Men, who had been very healthy till now, began to fall down apace in Fevers. Whether it was the badneſs of the Water, or the unhealthineſs of the Town was the cauſe of it we did not know; but of the two, I rather believe it was a diſtemper we got at Ria Lexa; for it was reported that they had been vi⯑ſited with a Malignant Fever in that Town, which had occaſioned many People to abandon it; and although this Viſitation was over with them, yet their Houſes and Goods might ſtill retain ſomewhat of the Infection, and communicate the ſame to us.

I the rather believe this, becauſe it afterwards raged very much, not only among us, but alſo among Capt. Davis and his Men, as he told me himſelf ſince, when I met him in England: Himſelf had like to have died, as did ſeveral of his and our Men. The 3d day of September we turned aſhore all our Priſoners and Pilots, they being unacquainted fur⯑ther to the Weſt, which was the Coaſt that we de⯑ſigned [225] to viſit: for the Spaniards have very little Trade by Sea beyond the River Lempa, a little to the North Weſt of this place.

About 10 a clock in the morning, the ſame day we went from hence, ſteering Weſtward, being in company 4 Sail, as well as they who left us, viz. Captain Swan and his Bark, and Capt. Townley and his Bark, and about 340 Men.

We met with very bad weather as we ſailed along this Coaſt: ſeldom a day paſt but we had one or two violent Tornadoes, and with them very fright⯑ful Flaſhes of Lightnings and Claps of Thunder; I did never meet with the like before nor ſince. Theſe Tornadoes commonly came out of the N. E. the Wind did not laſt long, but blew very fierce for the time. When the Tornadoes were over we had the Wind at W. ſometimes at W. S. W. and S. W. and ſometimes to the North of the Weſt, as far as the N. W.

We kept at a good diſtance off ſhoar, and ſaw no land till the 14th day; but then, being in lat. 12 d. 50 m. the Volcan of Guatimala appeared in ſight. This is a very high Mountain with two peeks or heads, appearing like two Sugar-loaves. It often belches forth Flames of Fire and Smoak from between the two heads; and this, as the Spaniards do report, happens chiefly in tempeſtuous weather. It is called ſo from the City Guatimala, which ſtands near the foot of it, about 8 leagues from the South Sea, and by report, 40 or 50 leagues from the Gulf of Matique in the Bay of Honduras, in the North Seas. This City is famous for many rich Commodities that are produced thereabouts (ſome almoſt peculiar to this Country) and yearly ſent into Europe, eſpecially 4 rich Dyes, Indico, Otta or Anatta, Silveſter, and Cochineel.

Indico is made of an Herb which grows a foot and half or two foot high, full of ſmall Branches; [226] and the Branches full of Leaves, reſembling the Leaves which grow on Flax, but more thick and ſubſtantial. They cut this Herb or Shrub and caſt it into a large Ciſtern made in the Ground for that purpoſe, which is half full of Water. The Indico Stalk or Herb remains in the Water till all the leaves, and I think, the ſkin, rind, or bark rot off, and in a manner diſſolve: but if any of the leaves ſhould ſtick faſt, they force them off by much labour, toſſing and tumbling the Maſs in the Water till all the pulpy ſubſtance is diſſolved. Then the Shrub, or woody part, is taken out, and the Water which is like Ink, being diſturbed no more, ſettles, and the Indico falls to the bottom of the Ciſtern like Mud. When it is thus ſettled they draw off the Water, and take the Mud and lay it in the Sun to dry: which there becomes hard, as you ſee it brought home.

Otta, or Anatta, is a red ſort of Dye. It is made of a red Flower that grows on Shrubs 7 or 8 foot high. It is thrown into a Ciſtern of Water as the Indico is, but with this difference, that there is no ſtalk, nor ſo much as the head of the Flower, but only the Flower it ſelf pull'd off from the head, as you peel Roſe-leaves from the bud. This remains in the Water till it rots, and by much jumbling it diſſolves to a liquid ſubſtance, like the Indico; and being ſettled and the Water drawn off, the red Mud is made up into Rolls or Cakes, and laid in the Sun to dry. I did never ſee any made but at a place called the Angels in Jamaica, at Sir Tho. Muddiford's Plantations, about 20 years ſince; but was grubb'd up while I was there, and the Ground otherwiſe employed. I do believe there is none any where elſe on Jamaica: and even this probably was owing to the Spaniards, when they had that Iſland. Indico is common enough in Jamaica. I obſerved they planted it moſt in ſandy Ground: they ſow [227] great Fields of it, and I think they ſow it every year; but I did never ſee the Seeds it bears. In⯑dico is produced all over the Weſt-Indies, on moſt of the Caribbe Iſlands, as well as the Main; yet no part of the Main yields ſuch great quantities both of Indico and Otta as this Country about Guatimala. I believe that Otta is made now only by the Spani⯑ards; for ſince the deſtroying that at the Angels Plantation in Jamaica, I have not heard of any Improvement made of this Commodity by our Country-men any where; and as to Jamaica I have ſince been informed, that 'tis wholly left off there. I know not what quantities either of Indico or Ot⯑ta are made at Cuba or Hiſpaniola: but the place moſt uſed by our Jamaica Sloops for theſe things is the Iſland Porto Rico, where our Jamaica Tra⯑ders did uſe to buy Indico for 3 Rials, and Otta for 4 Rials the Pound, which is but 2 s. 3 d. of our Money: and yet at the ſame time Otta was worth in Jamaica 5 s. the Pound, and Indico 3 s. 6 d. the Pound; and even this alſo paid in Goods; by which means alone they got 50 or 60 per Cent. Our Traders had not then found the way of trading with the Spaniards in the Bay of Honduras; but Captain Coxon went thither (as I take it) at the be⯑ginning of the Year 1679, under pretence to cut Logwood, and went into the Gulf of Matique, which is in the bottom of that Bay. There he landed with his Canoas and took a whole Store⯑houſe full of Indico and Otta in Cheſts, piled up in ſeveral parcels, and marked with different marks ready to be ſhipt off aboard two Ships that then lay in the road purpoſely to take it in; but theſe Ships could not come at him, it being ſhole⯑water. He opened ſome of the Cheſts of Indico, and ſuppoſing the other Cheſts to be all of the ſame ſpecies ordered his Men to carry them away. They immediately ſet to work, and took the neareſt at [228] hand; and having carried out one heap of Cheſts, they ſeized on another great pile of a different mark from the reſt, intending to carry them away next. But a Spaniſh Gentleman, their Priſoner, knowing that there was a great deal more than they could carry away, deſired them to take only ſuch as belonged to the Merchants, (whoſe marks he undertook to ſhew them) and to ſpare ſuch as had the ſame mark with thoſe in that great Pile they were then entring upon; becauſe, he ſaid, thoſe Cheſts belonged to the Ship Captains, who fol⯑lowing the Seas, as themſelves did, he hoped they would, for that reaſon, rather ſpare their Goods than the Merchants. They conſented to his Requeſt; but upon their opening their Cheſts (which was not before they came to Jamaica, whereby conni⯑vance they were permitted to ſell them) they found that the Don had been to ſharp for them; the few Cheſts which they had taken of the ſame mark with the great Pile proving to be Otto, of greater value by far than the other; whereas they might as well have loaded the whole Ship with Otto, as with Indico.

The Cochineel is an Inſect, bred in a ſort of Fruit much like the Prickle-Pear. The Tree or Shrub that bears it is like the Prickle-Pear Tree, about 5 foot high, and ſo prickly; only the Leaves are not quite ſo big, but the Fruit is bigger. On the top of the Fruit there grows a red Flower: This Flow⯑er, when the Fruit is ripe, falls down on the top of the Fruit which then begins to open, and covers it ſo, that no Rain nor Dew can wet the inſide. The next day, or two days after its falling down, the Flower being then ſcorched away by the heat of the Sun, the Fruit opens as broad as the mouth of a Pint Pot, and the inſide of the Fruit is by this time ſull of ſmall red Inſects, with curious thin Wings. As they were bred here, ſo here they would die [229] for want of food, and rot in their huſks, (having by this time eaten up their mother Fruit) did not the Indians, who plant large fields of theſe Trees, when once they perceive the Fruit open, take care to drive them out: for they ſpread under the branch⯑es of the Tree a large Linnen Cloth, and then with ſticks they ſhake the branches, and ſo diſturb the poor Inſects, that they take wing to be gone, yet hovering ſtill over the head of their native Tree, but the heat of the Sun ſo diſorders them, that they preſently fall down dead on the Cloth ſpread for that purpoſe, where the Indians let them remain 2 or 3 days longer, till they are thoroughly dry. When they fly up they are red, when they fall down they are black; and when firſt they are quite dry they are white as the ſheet wherein they lie, though the Colour change a little after. Theſe yield the much eſteemed Scarlet. The Cochineel⯑trees are called by the Spaniard Toona's: They are planted in the Country about Guatimala, and about Cheape and Guaxaca, all 3 in the Kingdom of Mexi⯑co. The Silveſter is a red Grain growing in a Fruit much reſembling the Cochineel-fruit; as doth alſo the Tree that bears it. There firſt ſhoots forth a yellow Flower, then comes the Fruit, which is longer than the Cochineel Fruit. The Fruit being ripe opens alſo very wide. The inſide being full of theſe ſmall Seeds or Grains, they fall out with the leaſt touch or ſhake. The Indians that gather them hold a Diſh under to receive the Seed, and then ſhake it down. Theſe Trees grow wild; and 8 or 10 of theſe Fruits will yield an ounce of Seed: but of the Cochineel-fruits, 3 or 4 will yield an ounce of Inſects. The Silveſter gives a Colour almoſt as fair as the Cochineel; and ſo like it as to be often miſtaken for it, but it is not near ſo valuable. I often made enquiry how the Silveſter grows, and of the Cochineel; but was never fully ſatisfied, till [230] I met a Spaniſh Gentleman that had lived 30 years in the Weſt-Indies, and ſome years where theſe grow; and from him I had theſe relations. He was a ve⯑ry Intelligent Perſon, and pretended to be well ac⯑quainted in the Bay of Campeachy: therefore I exa⯑mined him in many particulars concerning that Bay, where I was well acquainted my ſelf, living there 3 years. He gave very true and pertinent anſwers to all my demands, ſo that I could have no diſtruſt of what he related.

When we firſt ſaw the Mountain of Guatimala, we were by judgment 25 leagues diſtance from it. As we came nearer the Land it appeared higher and plainer, yet we ſaw no Fire, but a little ſmoak pro⯑ceeding from it. The Land by the Sea was of a good height, yet but low in compariſon with that in the Country. The Sea for about 8 or 10 leagues from the ſhoar, was full of floating Trees, or Drift-Wood, as it is called, (of which I have ſeen a great deal, but no where ſo much as here,) and Pumice⯑ſtones floating, which probably are thrown out of the burning Mountains, and waſhed down to the ſhoar by the Rains, which are very violent and frequent in this Country; and on the ſide of Hon⯑duras it is exceſſively wet.

The 24th day we were in lat. 14 d. 30 m. North, and the Weather more ſettled. Then Captain Townley took with him 106 Men in 9 Canoas, and went away to the Weſtward, where he intended to Land, and romage in the Country for ſome refreſhment for our ſick Men, we having at this time near half our Men ſick, and many were dead ſince we left Ria Lexa. We in the Ships lay ſtill with our Topſails furled, and our Corſes or lower Sails hal'd up this day and the next, that Captain Townley might get the ſtart of us.

The 26th day we made ſail again, coaſting to the Weſtward, having the Wind at North and fair [231] weather. We ran along by a tract of very high Land which came from the Eaſtward, more within Land than we could ſee, after we fell in with it, it bare us company for about 10 leagues, and ended with a pretty gentle deſcent towards the Weſt.

There we had a perfect view of a pleaſant low Country, which ſeemed to be rich in Paſturage for Cattle. It was plentifully furniſhed with Groves of green Trees, mixt among the graſſy Savannahs: Here the Land was fenced from the Sea with high ſandy Hills, for the Waves all along this Coaſt run high, and beat againſt the ſhoar very boiſterouſly, making the Land wholly unapproachable in Boats or Canoas: So we coaſted ſtill along by this low Land, 8 or 9 leagues farther, keeping cloſe to the ſhoar for fear of miſſing Captain Townley. We lay by in the Night, and in the Day made an eaſie ſail.

The 2d day of October, Captain Townley came a⯑board; he had coaſted along ſhoar in his Canoas, ſeeking for an entrance, but found none. At laſt, being out of hopes to find any Bay, Creek, or Ri⯑ver, into which he might ſafely enter, he put a⯑ſhoar on a ſandy Bay, but overſet all his Canoas; he had one Man drowned, and ſeveral loſt all their Arms, and ſome of them that had not waxt up their Cartrage or Catouche Boxes, wet all their Powder. Captain Townley with much ado got a⯑ſhoar, and dragged the Canoas up dry on the Bay; then every Man ſearched his Catouche-Box, and drew the wet Powder out of his Gun, and pro⯑vided to march into the Country, but finding it full of great Creeks which they could not ford, they were forced to return again to their Canoas. In the night they made good fires to keep themſelves warm; the next morning 200 Spaniards and Indians fell on them, but were immediately repulſed, and made greater ſpeed back than they had done for⯑ward. [232] Captain Townley followed them, but not far For fear of his Canoas. Theſe Men came from Te⯑guantapeque, a Town that Captain Townley went chiefly to ſeek, becauſe the Spaniſh Books make mention of a large River there; but whether it was run away at this time, or rather Captain Townley and his Men were ſhort-ſighted, I know not; but they could not find it.

Upon his return we preſently made ſail, coaſting ſtill Weſtward, having the Wind at E N. E. fair weather and a freſh gale. We kept within 2 mile of the ſhoar, ſounding all the way; and found at 6 miles diſtance from Land 19 fathom; at 8 miles diſtance 21 fathom, groſs Sand. We ſaw no open⯑ing, nor ſign of any place to land at, ſo we ſailed about 20 leagues farther, and came to a ſmall high Iſland called Tangola, were there is good anchor⯑ing. The Iſland is indifferently well furniſhed with Wood and Water, and lieth about a league from the ſhoar. The Main againſt the Iſland is pretty high champion Savannah Land by the Sea; but 2 or 3 leagues within Land it is higher, and very woody.

We coaſted a league farther and came to Guatulco. This Port is in lat. 15 d. 30 m. it is one of the beſt in all this Kingdom of Mexico. Near a mile from the mouth of the Harbour, on the Eaſt-ſide, there is a little Iſland cloſe by the ſhoar; and on the Weſt-ſide of the mouth of the Harbour there is a great hollow Rock, which by the continual work⯑ing of the Sea in and out makes a great noiſe, which may be heard a great way. Every Surge that comes in forceth the Water out of a little hole on its top, as out of a Pipe, from whence it flies out juſt like the blowing of a Whale; to which the Spaniards alſo liken it. They call this Rock and Spout the Buffadore: upon what account I know not. Even [233] in the calmeſt Seaſons the Sea beats in there, ma⯑king the Water ſpout out at the hole: ſo that this is always a good mark to find the Harbour by. The Harbour is about 3 mile deep, and one mile broad; it runs in N. W. But the Weſt-ſide of the Harbour is beſt to ride in for ſmall Ships; for there you may ride land-locked: whereas any where elſe you are open to the S. W. Winds, which often blow here. There is good clean Ground any where, and good gradual Soundings from 16 to 6 Fathom; it is bounded with a ſmooth ſandy Shoar, very good to land at; and at the bottom of the Harbour there is a fine Brook of freſh Water running into the Sea. Here formerly ſtood a ſmall Spaniſh Town, or Vil⯑lage, which was taken by Sir Francis Drake; but now there is nothing remaining of it, beſide a little Chapel ſtanding among the Trees, about 200 paces from the Sea. The Land appears in ſmall ſhort ridges parallel to the Shoar, and to each other; the innermoſt ſtill gradually higher than that nearer the Shoar; and they are all cloathed with very high flouriſhing Trees, that it is extraordinary pleaſant and delightful to behold at a diſtance: I have no where ſeen any thing like it.

At this place Captain Swan, who had been very ſick, came aſhoar, and all the ſick Men with him, and the Surgeon to tend them. Captain Townley again took a company of Men with him, and went into the Country to ſeek for Houſes or Inhabitants. He marched away to the Eaſtward, and came to the River Capalita; which is a ſwift River, yet deep near the mouth, and is about a league from Guatulco. There 2 of his Men ſwam over the River, and took 3 Indians that were placed there as Centinels, to watch for our coming. Theſe could none of them ſpeak Spaniſh; yet our Men by Signs made them underſtand, that they deſired to know if there was any Town or Village near; who by the Signs [234] which they made gave our Men to underſtand, that they could guide them to a Settlement: but there was no underſtanding by them, whether it was a Spaniſh or Indian Settlement, nor how far it was thi⯑ther. They brought theſe Indians aboard with them, and the next day, which was the 6th day of Octo⯑ber, Captain Townley with 140 Men (of whom I was one) went aſhoar again, taking one of theſe Indians with us for a Guide to conduct us to to this Settlement. Our Men that ſtay'd aboard fill'd our Water, and cut Wood, and mended our Sails: and our Moskito Men ſtruck 3 or 4 Turtle every day They were a ſmall ſort of Turtle, and not very ſweet, yet very well eſteemed by us all, becauſe we had eaten no Fleſh a great while. The 8th day we returned out of the Country, having been about [...] miles directly within Land before we came to any Settlement: There we found a ſmall Indian Village, and in it a great quantity of Vinello's drying in the Sun.

The Vinello is a little Cod full of ſmall black Seeds; it is 4 or 5 Inches long, about the bigneſs of the Stem of a Tobacco Leaf, and when dried, much reſembling it: ſo that our Privateers at firſt have often thrown them away when they took any wondring why the Spaniards ſhould lay up Tobac⯑co Stems. This Cod grows on a ſmall Vine, which climbs about, and ſupports it ſelf by the neighbour⯑ing Trees: it firſt bears a yellow Flower, from whence the Cod afterwards proceeds. It is firſt green, but when ripe it turns yellow; then the Indi⯑ans (whoſe Manufacture it is, and who ſell it cheap to the Spaniards) gather it, and lay it in the Sun which makes it ſoft; then it changes to a Cheſnut colour. Then they frequently preſs it between their Fingers, which makes it flat. If the Indians do any thing to them beſide, I know not; but I have ſeen the Spaniards ſleek them with Oil.

[235] Theſe Vines grow plentifully at Bocca-toro, where I have gathered and tried to cure them, but could not: which makes me think that the Indians have ſome Secret that I know not of to cure them. I have often askt the Spaniards how they were cured, but I never could meet with any could tell me. One Mr. Cree alſo, a very curious Perſon, who ſpoke Spaniſh well, and had been a Privateer all his Life, and 7 years a Priſoner among the Spaniards at Porto⯑bel and Cartagena, yet upon all his Enquiry could not find any of them that underſtood it. Could we have learnt the Art of it, ſeveral of us would have gone to Bocca-toro yearly, at the dry Seaſon, and cured them, and freighted our Veſſel. We there might have had Turtle enough for Food, and ſtore of Vinello's. Mr. Cree firſt ſhewed me thoſe at Bocca-toro. At, or near a Town alſo, called Cai-hooca, in the Bay of Campeachy, theſe Cods are found. They are commonly ſold for 3 pence a Cod among the Spaniards in the Weſt-Indies, and are ſold by the Druggiſt, for they are much uſed among Chocolate to perfume it. Some will uſe them among Tobacco, for it gives a delicate ſcent. I never heard of any Vinello's but here in this Country, about Cai-hooca, and at Bocca-toro.

The Indians of this Village could ſpeak but little Spaniſh. They ſeemed to be a poor innocent Peo⯑ple: and by them we underſtood, that here are ve⯑ry few Spaniards in theſe parts; yet all the Indians hereabout are under them. The Land from the Sea to their Houſes is black Earth, mixt with ſome Stones and Rocks: all the way full of very high Trees.

The 10th day we ſent 4 Canoas to the Weſt⯑ward, who were ordered to lie for us at Port An⯑gels; where we were in hopes that by ſome means or other they might get Priſoners, that might give us a better account of the Country than [236] at preſent we could have; and we followed them with our Ships; all our Men being now pretty well recovered of the Fever, which had raged amongſt us ever ſince we departed from Ria Lexa.

CHAP. IX.

IT was the 12th of October, 1685. when we ſet out of the Harbour of Guatulco with our Ships. The Land here lies along Weſt, and a little South⯑erly for about 20 or 30 Leagues, and the Sea-winds are commonly at W. S. W. ſometimes at S. W. the Land-winds at N. We had now fair Weather, and but little Wind. We coaſted along to the Weſt⯑ward, keeping as near the ſhole as we could for the benefit of the Land-winds, for the Sea-winds were right againſt us; and we found a Current ſetting to the Eaſtward which kept us back, and obliged us to anchor at the Iſland Sacrificio, which is a ſmall green Iſland about half a mile long. It lieth about a league to the Weſt of Guatulco, and about half a mile from the Main. There ſeems to be a fine Bay to the Weſt of the Iſland; but it is full of Rocks. The beſt riding is between the Iſland and the Main: there you will have 5 or 6 fathom Water. Here runs a pretty ſtrong Tide; the Sea riſeth and falleth 5 or 6 foot up and down.

The 18th day we ſailed from hence, coaſting to the Weſtward after our Canoas. We kept near the ſhoar, which was all ſandy Bays, the Country [239] pretty high and woody, and a great Sea tumbling in upon the ſhoar. The 22d day 2 of our Canoas came aboard, and told us they had been a great way to the Weſtward, but could not find Port An⯑gels. They had attempted to land the day before, at a place where they ſaw a great many Bulls and Cows feeding, in hopes to get ſome of them; but the Sea run ſo high, that they over-ſet both Ca⯑noas, and wet all their Arms, and loſt 4 Guns, and had one Man drown'd, and with much ado got off again. They could give no account of the other 2 Canoas, for they loſt company the firſt night that they went from Guatulco, and had not ſeen them ſince.

We were now abreſt of Port Angels, though our Men in the Canoas did not know it; therefore we went in and anchored there. This is a broad open Bay, with 2 or 3 Rocks at the Weſt-ſide. Here is good anchoring all over the Bay, in 30, or 20, or 12 fathom Water; but you muſt ride open to all Winds, except the Land-winds, till you come into 12 or 13 fathom Water, then you are ſheltered from the W. S. W. which are the common Trade⯑winds. The Tide riſeth here about 5 foot; the Flood ſets to the N. E. and the Ebb to the S. W. The landing in this Bay is bad; the place of land⯑ing is cloſe by the Weſt-ſide, behind a few Rocks; here always goes a great ſwell. The Spaniards com⯑pare this Harbour for goodneſs to Guatulco, but there is a great difference between them. For Cuatulco is almoſt Landlocked, and this an open road, and no one would eaſily know it by their Cha⯑racter of it, but by its Marks and its Latitude, which is 15 d. North. For this reaſon our Canoas, which were ſent from Guatulco and ordered to tarry here for us, did not know it, (not thinking this to be that fine Harbour) and therefore went farther; [...] of them, as I ſaid before, returned again, but the [240] other 2 were not yet come to us. The Land that bounds this Harbour is pretty high, the Earth ſandy and yellow, in ſome places red; it is partly Wood⯑land, partly Savannahs. The Trees in the Woods are large and tall, and the Savannahs are plenti⯑fully ſtored with very kindly Graſs. Two leagues to the Eaſt of this place is a Beef Farm, belonging to Don Diego de la Roſa.

The 23 day we landed about 100 Men and march⯑ed thither, where we found plenty of of fat Bulls and Cows feeding in the Savannahs, and in the Houſe good ſtore of Salt and Maiz; and ſome Hogs, and Cocks and Hens: but the Owners or Overſeers were gone. We lay here 2 or 3 days feaſting on freſh Proviſion, but could not contrive to carry any quan⯑tity aboard, becauſe the way was ſo long, and our Men but weak, and a great wide River to ford. Therefore we returned again from thence the 26th day, and brought every one a little Beef or Pork for the Men that ſtay'd aboard. The two nights that we ſtay'd aſhoar at this place we heard great droves of Jaccals, as we ſuppos'd them to be, bark⯑ing all night long, not far from us. None of us ſaw theſe; but I do verily believe they were Jaccals; tho' I did never ſee thoſe Creatures in America, nor hear any but at this time. We could not think that there were leſs than 30 or 40 in a company. We got aboard in the Evening; but did not yet hear a⯑ny news of our two Canoas.

The 27th day in the morning we ſailed from hence, with the Land-wind at N. by W. The Sea⯑wind came about noon at W. S. W. and in the even⯑ing we anchored in 16 fathom Water, by a ſmall rocky Iſland, which lieth about half a mile from the Main, and 6 leagues Weſtward from Port An⯑gels. The Spaniards give no account of this Iſland in their Pilot-book. The 28th day we ſailed again with the Land-wind: In the afternoon the Sea⯑breez [241] blew hard, and we ſprung our Main Top-maſt. This Coaſt is full of ſmall Hills and Valleys, and a great Sea falls in upon the ſhore. In the Night we met with the other two of our Canoas that went from us at Guatulco. They had been as far as Acapulco to ſeek Port Angels. Coming back from thence they went into a River to get Water, and were encountered by 150 Spaniards, yet they filled their Water in ſpight of them, but had one Man ſhot thro' the Thigh. Afterward they went into a Lagune, or Lake of Salt-water, where they found much dried Fiſh, and brought ſome aboard. We being now a⯑breſt of that place, ſent in a Canoa mann'd with 12 Men for more Fiſh. The mouth of this Lagune is not Piſtol-ſhot-wide, and on both ſides are pretty high Rocks, ſo conveniently placed by Nature, that many Men may abſcond behind; and within the Rock and Lagune opens wide on both ſides. The Spaniards being alarmed by our two Canoas that had been there two or three days before, came armed to this Place to ſecure their Fiſh; and ſeeing our Canoa coming, they lay ſnug behind the Rocks, and ſuf⯑fered the Canoa to paſs in, then they fired their Volley, and wounded five of our Men. Our People were a little ſurprized at this ſudden Adventure, yet fired their Guns, and rowed farther into the Lagune, for they durſt not adventure to come out again through the narrow Entrance, which was near a quarter of a Mile in length. Therefore they rowed into the middle of the Lagune, where they lay out of Gun-ſhot, and looked about to ſee if there was not another Paſſage to get out at, broader than that by which we entred, but could ſee none. So they lay ſtill two Days and three Nights, in hopes that we ſhould come to ſeek them; but we lay off at Sea, about three Leagues diſtant, waiting for their return, ſuppoſing by their long abſence, that they had made ſome greater Diſcovery, and were [242] gone farther than the Fiſh-Range; becauſe it is uſu⯑al with Privateers when they enter upon ſuch de⯑ſigns, to ſearch farther than they propoſed, if they meet any Encouragement. But Capt. Townley and his Bark being nearer the ſhore, heard ſome Guns fired in the Lagune. So he mann'd his Canoa, and went towards the ſhore, and beating the Spaniards away from the Rocks, made a free paſſage for our Men to come out of their Pound, where elſe they muſt have been ſtarved or knocked on the head by the Spaniards. They came aboard their Ships again the 31ſt of Octob. This Lagune is about the lat. of 16 d. 40 m. North.

From hence we made ſail again, coaſting to the Weſtward, having fair Weather and a Current ſet⯑ting to the Weſt. The ſecond day of November we paſt by a Rock, called by the Spaniards the Alga⯑troſs. The Land hereabout is of an indifferent height, and woody, and more within the Country Mountainous. Here are 7 or 8 white Cliffs by the Sea, which are very remarkable, becauſe there are none ſo white and ſo thick together on all the Coaſt. They are five or ſix Mile to the Weſt of the Algatroſs Rock. There is a dangerous ſhoal lieth S. by W. from theſe Cliffs, four or five Mile off at Sea. Two leagues to the Weſt of theſe Cliffs there is a pretty large River, which forms a ſmall Iſland at its Mouth. The Channel on the Eaſt ſide is but ſhoal and ſandy, but the Weſt Channel is deep enough for Canoas to enter. On the Banks of this Channel the Spaniards have made a Breſtwork, to hinder an Enemy from landing, or filling Water.

The 3d day we Anchored abreſt of this River, in 14 fathom Water, about a Mile and a half off ſhore. The next Morning we mann'd our Canoas, and went aſhore to the Breſt-work with little reſiſtance, although there were about 200 Men to keep us off. They fired about 20 or 30 Guns at us, but ſeeing [243] we were reſolved to land, they quitted the place; one chief reaſon why the Spaniards are ſo frequently routed by us, although many times much our ſu⯑periors in numbers, and in many places fortified with Breſtworks, is, their want of ſmall Fire-arms, for they have but few on all the Sea Coaſts, unleſs near their larger Gariſons. Here we found a great deal of Salt, brought hither, as I judge, for to ſalt Fiſh, which they take in the Lagunes. The Fiſh I obſerved here moſtly, were what we call Snooks, neither a Sea-fiſh nor freſh Water-fiſh, but very nu⯑merous in theſe ſalt Lakes. This Fiſh is about a Foot long, and round, and as thick as the ſmall of a Man's Leg, with a pretty long head: It hath Scales of a whitiſh colour, and is good meat. How the Spaniards take them I know not, for we never found any Nets, Hooks, or Lines, neither yet any Bark, Boat, or Canoa, among them, on all this Coaſt, except the Ship I ſhall mention at Acapulco.

We marched two or three Leagues into the Coun⯑try, and met with but one Houſe, where we took a Mulatto Priſoner, who informed us of a Ship that was lately arrived at Acapulco; ſhe came from Lima. Captain Townley wanting a good Ship, thought now he had an opportunity of getting one, if he could perſwade his Men to venture with him into the Harbour of Acapulco, and fetch this Lima Ship out. Therefore he immediately propoſed it, and found not only all his own Men willing to aſſiſt him, but many of Captain Swan's Men alſo. Cap⯑tain Swan oppoſed it, becauſe Proviſion being ſcares with us, he thought our time might be much bet⯑ter imployed in firſt providing our ſelves with rood; and here was plenty of Maiz in the River where we now were, as we were informed by the ſame Priſoner, who offered to conduct us to the place where it was. But neither the preſent neceſſity, nor [244] Captain Swan's perſwaſion availed any thing, no nor yet their own intereſt, for the great deſign we had then in hand, was to lie and wait for a rich Ship which comes to Acapulco every Year richly la⯑den from the Philippine Iſlands. But it was neceſſary we ſhould be well ſtored with Proviſions, to ena⯑ble us to Cruiſe about, and wait the time of her co⯑ming. However, Townley's Party prevailing, we only fill'd our Water here, and made ready to be gone. So the fifth Day in the Afternoon we ſailed again, Coaſting to the Weſtward, toward Acapulco. The 7th Day in the Afternoon, being about twelve Leagues from the ſhoar, we ſaw the high Land of Acapulco, which is very remarkable: for there is a round Hill ſtanding between two other Hills; the Weſtermoſt of which is the biggeſt and higheſt, and hath two Hillocks like two Paps on its top: the Eaſtermoſt Hill is higher and ſharper than the mid⯑dlemoſt. From the middle Hill the Land declines toward the Sea, ending in a high round point. There is no Land ſhaped like this on all the Coaſt. In the evening Captain Townley went away from the Ships with 140 Men in 12 Canoas, to try to get the Lima Ship out of Acapulco Harbour.

Acapulco is a pretty large Town, 17 degrees North of the Equator. It is the Sea-Port for the City of Mexico, on the Weſt ſide of the Continent; as La Vera Cruz, or St. John d' Ulloa in the Bay of Nova Hiſpania, is on the North ſide. This Town is the only place of Trade on all this Coaſt; for there is little or no Traffick by Sea on all the N. W. part of this vaſt Kingdom, here being, as I have ſaid, neither Boats, Barks nor Ships, (that I could ever ſee) unleſs only what come hither from other parts, and ſome Boats near the S. E. end of California; as I gueſs, by the intercourſe between that and the Main, for Pearl-fiſhing.

[245] The Ships that Trade hither are only three, two that conſtantly go once a Year between this and Manila in Luconia, one of the Philippine Iſlands, and one Ship more every Year to and from Lima. This from Lima commonly arrives a little before Chriſt⯑mas; ſhe brings them Quick-ſilver, Cacao, and Pieces of Eight. Here ſhe ſtays till the Manila Ships arrive, and then takes in a Cargo of Spices, Silks, Callicoes, and Muſlins, and other Eaſt-India Commodities, for the uſe of Peru, and then re⯑turns to Lima. This is but a ſmall Veſſel of 20 Guns, but the two Manila Ships are each ſaid to be above 1000 Tun. Theſe make their Voyages alternately, ſo that one or other of them is always at the Manila's. When either of them ſets out from Acapulco, it is at the latter end of March, or the beginning of April; ſhe always touches to re⯑freſh at Guam, one of the Ladrone Iſlands, in about 60 Days ſpace after ſhe ſets out. There ſhe ſtays but two or three Days, and then proſecutes her Voyage to Manila, where ſhe commonly arrives ſome time in June. By that time the other is ready to ſail from thence, laden with Eaſt-India Commodities. She ſtretcheth away to the North as far as 36, or ſometimes into 40 degrees of North lat. before ſhe gets a Wind to ſtand over to the American ſhoar. She falls in firſt with the Coaſt of California, and then Coaſts along the ſhoar to the South again, and never miſſes a Wind to bring her away from thence quite to Acapulco. When ſhe gets the length of Cape St. Lucas, which is the Southermoſt point of California, ſhe ſtretcheth over to Cape Corientes, which is in about the 20th degree of North lat. from thence ſhe Coaſts along till ſhe comes to Sal⯑lagua, and there ſhe ſets aſhoar Paſſengers that are bound to the City of Mexico: From thence ſhe makes her beſt way, Coaſting ſtill along ſhoar, till ſhe arrives at Acapulco, which is commonly about [246] Chriſtmas, never more than 8 or 10 days before or after. Upon the return of this Ship to the Manila, the other which ſtayeth there till her arrival, takes her turn back to Acapulco. Sir John Narborough there⯑fore was impoſed on by the Spaniards, who told him that there were 8 Sail, or more, that uſed this Trade.

The Port of Acapulco is very commodious for the reception of Ships, and ſo large, that ſome hundreds may ſafely Ride there without damnify⯑ing each other. There is a ſmall low Iſland croſ⯑ſing the mouth of the Harbour; it is about a Mile and a half long, and half a Mile broad, ſtretching Eaſt and Weſt. It leaves a good wide deep Chan⯑nel at each end, where Ships may ſafely go in or come out, taking the advantage of the Winds; they muſt enter with the Sea-Wind, and go out with the Land-Wind, for theſe Winds ſeldom or never fail to ſucceed each other alternately in their proper ſeaſon of the Day or Night. The Weſtermoſt Channel is the narroweſt, but ſo deep, there is no Anchoring, and the Manila Ships paſs in that way, but the Ships from Lima enter on the S. W. Chan⯑nel. This Harbour runs in North about 3 Miles, then growing very narrow, it turns ſhort about to the Weſt, and runs about a Mile farther, where it ends. The Town ſtands on the N. W. ſide; at the mouth of this narrow paſſage, cloſe by the Sea, and at the end of the Town, there is a Platform with a great many Guns. Oppoſite to the Town, on the Eaſt ſide, ſtands a high ſtrong Caſtle, ſaid to have 40 Guns of a very great bore. Ships com⯑monly Ride near the bottom of the Harbour, under the Command both of the Caſtle and the Plat⯑form.

Captain Townly, who, as I ſaid before, with 140 Men, left our Ships on a deſign to fetch the Lima Ship out of the Harbour, had not Rowed above 3 or 4 Leagues before the Voyage was like to end [247] with all their Lives; for on a ſudden they were en⯑countred with a violent Tornado from the ſhore, which had like to have foundered all the Canoas: but they eſcaped that danger, and the ſecond night got ſafe into Port Marquis. Port Marquis is a very good Harbour, a League to the Eaſt of Acapulco Har⯑bour. Here they ſtaid all the next Day to dry them⯑ſelves, their Cloaths, their Arms, and Ammunition, and the next Night they rowed ſoftly into Acapulco Harbour; and becauſe they would not be heard, they hal'd in their Oars, and paddled as ſoftly as if they had been ſeeking Manatee. They paddled cloſe to the Caſtle; then ſtruck over to the Town, and found the Ship riding between the Breſt-work and the Fort, within about 100 Yards of each. When they had well viewed her, and conſidered the danger of the deſign, they thought it not poſſi⯑ble to accompliſh it; therefore they paddled ſoftly back again, till they were out of command of the Forts, and then they went to Land, and fell in a⯑mong a Company of Spaniſh Soldiers (for the Spani⯑ards having ſeen them the day before, had ſet Guards along the Coaſt) who immediately fired at them, but did them no damage, only made them retire farther from the ſhore. They lay afterwards at the mouth of the Harbour till it was day, to take a view of the Town and Caſtle, and then returned aboard again, being tired, hungry, and ſorry for their Diſ⯑appointment.

The 11th day we made ſail again further on to the Weſtward, with the Land wind, which is com⯑monly at N. E. but the Sea winds are at S. W. We paſſed by a long ſandy Bay of above 20 Leagues. All the way along it the Sea falls with ſuch force on the ſhore, that it is impoſſible to come near it with Boat or Canoa; yet it is good clean ground, and good an⯑choring a Mile or two from the ſhore. The Land by the Sea is low, and indifferent Fertile, produ⯑cing [248] many ſorts of Trees, eſpecially the ſpreading [...], which grows in ſpots from one end of the Bay to the other.

The P [...] tree is as big as an ordinary Aſh, growing about 20 or 30 Foot high. The Body is clear from Boughs or Branches, till juſt at the head; there it ſpreads forth many large green Branches, not much unlike the Cabbage tree before deſcribed. Theſe Branches alſo grow in many Places, (as in Jamaica, Darien, the Bay of Campeachy, &c.) from a ſtump not above a Foot or two high; which is not the Remains of a Tree cut down; for none of theſe ſort of Trees will ever grow again when they have once loſt their Head; but theſe are a ſort of Dwarf-palm, and the Branches which grow from the ſtump, are not ſo large as thoſe that grow on the great Tree. Theſe ſmaller Branches are uſed both in the Eaſt and Weſt Indies for thatching Houſes: They are very laſting and ſerviceable, much ſurpaſſing the Palmeto. For this Thatch, if well laid on, will endure five or ſix Years; and this is called by the Spaniards the Palmeto Royal. The Engliſh at Jamaica give it the ſame Name. Whether this be the ſame which they in Guinea get the Palm wine from, I know not; but I know that it is like this.

The Land in the Country is full of ſmall pecked barren Hills, making as many little Valleys, which appear flouriſhing and green. At the Weſt-end of this Bay is the Hill of Petaplan, in lat. 17 d. 30 m. N. This is a round Point ſtretching out into the Sea: At a diſtance it ſeems to be an Iſland. A little to the Weſt of this Hill are ſeveral round Rocks, which we left without us, ſteering in between them and the round Point, where we had 11 fa⯑thom Water. We came to an Anchor on the N. W. ſide of the Hill, and went aſhore, about 170 Men of us, and marched into the Country 12 or 14 [249] Miles. There we came to a poor Indian Village that did not afford us a Meal of Victuals. The Peo⯑ple all fled, only a Mulatto Woman, and three or four ſmall Children, who were taken and brought a⯑board. She told us that a Carrier (one who drives a Caravan of Mules) was goin to Acapulco, laden with Flower and other Goods, but ſtopt in the Road for fear of us, a little to the Weſt of this Village, (for he had heard of our being on this Coaſt) and ſhe thought he ſtill remained there: And therefore it was we kept the Woman to be our Guide to car⯑ry us to that place. At this place where we now lay our Moskito-men ſtruck ſome ſmall Turtle, and many ſmall Jew-fiſh.

The Jew-fiſh is a very good Fiſh, and I judge ſo called by the Engliſh, becauſe it hath Scales and Fins, therefore a clean Fiſh, according to the Levitical Law, and the Jews at Jamaica buy them, and eat them very freely. It is a very large Fiſh, ſhaped much like a Cod, but a great deal bigger; one will weigh 3, or 4, or 5 hundred weight. It hath a large Head, with great Fins and Scales, as big as an Half-Crown, anſwerable to the bigneſs of his Body. It is very ſweet Meat, and commonly fat. This Fiſh lives among Rocks; there are plenty of them in the Weſt Indies, about Jamaica, and the Coaſt of Caraccos; but chiefly in theſe Seas, eſpecially more Weſtward.

We went from hence with our Ships the 18th day, and ſteered Weſt about two Leagues farther, to a place called Chequetan. A Mile and half from the ſhore there is a ſmall Key, and within it is a very good Harbour where Ships may careen; there is alſo a ſmall River of freſh Water, and Wood enough.

The 14th Day in the Morning we went with 95 Men in ſix Canoas to ſeek for the Carrier, taking the Mulatto-Woman for our Guide; but Captain Townley would not go with us. Before day we lan⯑ded [250] at a place called Eſtapa, a League to the Weſt of Chequeton. The Woman was well acquainted here, having been often at this place for Muſcles, as ſhe told us; for here are great plenty of them. They ſeem in all reſpects like our Engliſh Muſcles. She carry'd us through the pathleſs Wood by the ſide of a River, for about a League: Then we came into a Savannah full of Bulls and Cows; and here the Carrier before-mentioned was lying at the Eſtan⯑tion-houſe with his Mules, not having dared to advance all this while, as not knowing where we lay; ſo his own fear made him, his Mules, and all his Goods, become a Prey to us. He had 40 Packs of Flower, ſome Chocolate, a great many ſmall Cheeſes, and abundance of Earthen Ware. The Eatables we brought away, but the Earthen Veſſels we had no occaſion for, and therefore left them. The Mules were about 60: We brought our Prize with them to the Shore, and ſo turned them away. Here we alſo kill'd ſome Cows, and brought with us to our Canoas. In the Afternoon our Ships came to an Anchor half a Mile from the place where we landed, and then we went aboard. Captain Townley ſeeing our good ſucceſs, went aſhore with his Men to kill ſome Cows; for here were no Inhabitants near to oppoſe us. The Land is very woody, of a good fertile Soil, watered with many ſmall Rivers; yet it hath but few Inhabitants near the Sea. Capt. Townley kill'd 18 Beefs, and after he came aboard, our Men, contrary to Captain Swan's inclination, gave Capt. Townley part of the Flower which we took aſhore. Afterwards we gave the Woman ſome Cloaths for her, and her Children, and put her and two of them aſhore; but one of them, a very pretty Boy, about 7 or 8 Years old Capt. Swan kept. The Woman cried, and begg'd hard to have him; but Capt. Swan would not, but promiſed to make much of him, and was as [251] good as his word. He proved afterwards a very fine Boy for Wit, Courage, and Dexterity; I have often wonder'd at his Expreſſions and Actions.

The 21ſt day in the evening, we ſailed hence with the Land-Wind. The Land-Winds on this part of the Coaſt are at N. and the Sea-Winds at W. S. W. We had fair Weather, and Coaſted along to the Weſtward. The Land is high, and full of ragged Hills; and Weſt from theſe ragged Hills, the Land makes many pleaſant and fruitful Valleys among the Mountains. The 25th day we were abreſt of a very remarkable Hill, which towring above the reſt of its fellows, is divided in the top, and makes two ſmall parts. It is in lat. 18 d. 8 m. North. The Spaniards make mention of a Town called Thelupan near this Hill, which we would have viſited if we could have found the way to it. The 26th day Captain Swan and Capt. Townley, with 200 Men, of whom I was one, went in our Canoas to ſeek for the City of Colima, a rich Place by report, but how far within Land I could never learn: for, as I ſaid before, here is no Trade by Sea, and therefore we could never get Guides to inform us, or conduct us to any Town, but one or two, on this Coaſt, and there is never a Town that lieth open to the Sea but Acapulco; and therefore our ſearch was commonly fruitleſs, as now; for, we rowed above 20 Leagues along ſhoar, and found it a very bad Coaſt to Land. We ſaw no Houſe, nor ſign of In⯑habitants, although we paſt by a fine Valley, called the Valley of Maguella; only at two places, the one at our firſt ſetting out on this Expedition, and the other at the end of it, we ſaw a Horſeman ſet, as we ſuppoſed, as a Centinel, to watch us. At both places we landed with difficulty, and at each place we followed the track of the Horſe on the ſandy Bay; but where they entred the Woods we loſt the track, and although we diligently ſearcht [252] for it, yet we could find it no more; ſo we were perfectly at a loſs to find out the Houſes or Town they came from. The 28th Day, being tired and hopeleſs to find any Town, we went aboard our Ships, that were now come abreſt of the place where we were; for always when we leave our Ships, we either order a certain place of meeting, or elſe leave them a ſign to know where we are, by making one or more great Smoaks: yet we had all like to have been ruin'd by ſuch a ſignal as this, in a former Voyage under Captain Sharp, when we made that unfortunate Attempt upon Arica, which is mentioned in the Hiſtory of the Buccaneers. For upon the routing our Men, and taking ſeveral of them, ſome of thoſe ſo taken told the Spaniards, that it was agreed between them and their Com⯑panions on board, to make two great Smoaks at a diſtance from each other, as ſoon as the Town ſhould be taken, as a ſignal to the Ship, that it might ſafely enter the Harbour. The Spaniards made theſe Smoaks preſently: I was then among thoſe who ſtaid on board; and whether the ſignal was not ſo exactly made, or ſome other diſcourage⯑ment happen'd, I remember not, but we forbore going in, till we ſaw our ſcatter'd Crew coming off in their Canoas. Had we enter'd the Port upon the falſe ſignal, we muſt have been taken or ſunk; for we muſt have paſt cloſe by the Fort, and could have had no Wind to bring us out, till the Land-Wind ſhould riſe in the Night.

But to our preſent Voyage: After we came a⯑board we ſaw the Volcan of Colima. This is a very high Mountain, in about 18 d. 36 m. North, ſtanding 5 or 6 Leagues from the Sea, in the midſt of a pleaſant Valley. It appears with two ſharp peeks, from each of which there do always iſſue flames of fire or ſmoak. The Valley in which this Volcan ſtands, is callel the Valley of Colima, from the Town [253] it ſelf which ſtands there not far from the Volcan. The Town is ſaid to be great and rich, the chief of all its Neighbourhood: and the Valley in which it is ſeated, by the relation which the Spaniards give of it, is the moſt pleaſant and fruitful Valley in all the Kingdom of Mexico. This Valley is about ten or twelve Leagues wide by the Sea, where it makes a ſmall Bay: but how far the Vale runs into the Country I know not. It is ſaid to be full of Cacoa⯑gardens, Fields of Corn, Wheat, and Plantain-Walks. The neighbouring Sea is bounded with a ſandy ſhoar; but there is no going aſhoar for the violence of the Waves. The Land within it is low all along, and Woody for about two Leagues from the Eaſt ſide; at the end of the Woods there is a deep River runs out into the Sea, but it hath ſuch a great Bar, or ſandy Shoal, that when we were here, no Boat or Canoa could poſſibly enter, the Sea running ſo high upon the Bar: otherwiſe, I judge, we ſhould have made ſome farther diſcove⯑ry into this pleaſant Valley. On the Weſt ſide of the River the Savannah land begins, and runs to the other ſide of the Valley. We had but little Wind when we came aboard, therefore we lay off this Bay that Afternoon and the Night enſuing.

The 29th Day our Captains went away from our Ships with 200 Men, intending at the firſt conve⯑nient place to land and ſearch about for a Path: for the Spaniſh Books make mention of 2 or 3 other Towns hereabouts, eſpecially one called Sallagua, to the Weſt of this Bay. Our Canoas rowed along as near the ſhoar as they could, but the Sea went ſo high that they could not land. About 10 or 11 a Clock, two Horſemen came near the ſhoar, and one of them took a Bottle out of his Pocket, and drank to our Men. While he was drinking, one of our Men ſnatch'd up his Gun, and let drive at him, and kill'd his Horſe: ſo his Conſort immediately ſet Spurs to [254] his Horſe and rode away, leaving the other to come after afoot. But he being Booted, made but ſlow haſte; therefore two of our Men ſtript them⯑ſelves, and ſwam aſhoar to take him. But he had a Macheat, or long Knife, wherewith he kept them both from ſeizing him, they having nothing in their Hands wherewith to defend themſelves, or offend him. The 30th day our Men came all a⯑board again, for they could not find any place to land in.

The firſt day of December we paſſed by the Port of Sallagua. This Port is in lat. 18 d. 52 m. It is only a pretty deep Bay, divided in the middle with a rocky point, which makes, as it were, two Har⯑bours. Ships may ride ſecurely in either, but the Weſt Harbour is the beſt: there is good Anchoring any where in 10 or 12 fathom, and a Brook of freſh Water runs into the Sea. Here we ſaw a great new thatched Houſe, and a great many Spaniards both Horſe and Foot, with Drums beating, and Co⯑lours flying, in defiance of us, as we thought. We took no notice of them till the next Morning, and then we landed about 200 Men to try their Cou⯑rage; but they preſently withdrew. The Foot ne⯑ver ſtay'd to exchange one ſhot, but the Horſemen ſtay'd till two or three were knock'd down, and then they drew off, our Men purſuing them. At laſt, two of our Men took two Horſes that had loſt their Ri⯑ders, and mounting them, rode after the Spaniards full drive till they came among them, thinking to have taken a Priſoner for Intelligence, but had like to have been taken themſelves: for four Spaniards ſur⯑rounded them, after they had diſcharged their Pi⯑ſtols, and unhorſed them; and if ſome of our beſt Footmen had not come to their reſcue, they muſt have yielded, or have been killed. They were both cut in two or three places, but their Wounds were not Mortal. The four Spaniards got away before our Men [255] could hurt them, and mounting their Horſes, ſpeed⯑ed after their Conſorts, who were marched away into the Country. Our Men finding a broad Road leading into the Country, followed it about four Leagues in a dry ſtony Country, full of ſhort Wood; but finding no ſign of Inhabitants, they returned again. In their way back they took two Mullatto's, who were not able to march as faſt as their Conſorts; therefore they had skulked in the Woods, and by that means thought to have eſcaped our Men. Theſe Priſoners informed us, that this great Road did lead to a great City called Oarrha, from whence many of thoſe Horſemen before ſpoken of came: That this City was diſtant from hence as far as a Horſe will go in four Days; and that there is no place of conſequence nearer: That the Country is very poor, and thinly inhabited. They ſaid alſo, that theſe Men came to aſſiſt the Philippine Ship, that was every day expected here, to put aſhore Paſſen⯑gers for Mexico. The Spaniſh Pilot-Books, mention a Town alſo called Sallogua hereabouts; but we could not find it, nor hear any thing of it by our Priſoners.

We now intended to cruiſe off the Cape Corrien⯑tes, to wait for the Philippine Ship. So the 6th Day of Decemb. we ſet ſail, coaſting to the Weſtwards towards Cape Corrientes. We had fair Weather, and but little Wind; the Sea-Breezes at N. W. and the Land Wind at N. The Land is of an indifferent heighth, full of ragged Points, which at a diſtance appear like Iſlands: The Country is very woody, but the Trees are not high, nor very big.

Here I was taken ſick of a Fever and Ague that afterwards turned to a Dropſie, which I laboured under a long time after; and many of our Men died of this Diſtemper, though our Surgeons uſed their greateſt skill to preſerve their Lives. The Dropſie is a general Diſtemper on this Coaſt, and the Natives [256] ſay, that the beſt remedy they can find for it, is the Stone or Cod of an Allegator (of which they have 4, one near each Leg, within the Fleſh) pulverized and drunk in Water: This Receipt we alſo found menti⯑oned in an Almanack made at Mexico: I would have tried it, but we found no Allegators here, tho' there are ſeveral.

There are many good Harbours between Salla⯑gua and Cape Corrientes: but we paſſed by them all. As we drew near the Cape, the Land by the Sea appeared of an indifferent heighth, full of white Cliffs; but in the Country the Land is high and barren, and full of ſharp pecked Hills, unpleaſant to the ſight. To the Weſt of this ragged Land is a Chain of Mountains running parallel with the Shore; They end on the Weſt with a gentle deſcent; but on the Eaſt ſide they keep their heighth, ending with a high ſteep Mountain, which hath three ſmall ſharp pecked tops, ſomewhat reſembling a Crown; and therefore called by the Spaniards, Coronada, the Crown Land.

The 11th day we were fair in ſight of Cape Cor⯑rientes, it bore N. by W. and the Crown Land bore North. The Cape is of an indifferent heighth, with ſteep Rocks to the Sea. It is flat and even on the top, cloathed with Woods: The Land in the Coun⯑try is high and doubled. This Cape lieth in 20 d. 28 m. North. I find its longitude from Tenariff to be 230 d. 56 m. but I keep my longitude Weſtward, according to our Courſe; and according to this reckoning, I find it is from the Lizard in England 121 d. 41 m. ſo that the difference of time is eight Hours, and almoſt ſix Minutes.

Here we had reſolved to cruize for the Philippine Ship, becauſe ſhe always makes this Cape in her Voyage homeward. We were (as I have ſaid) four Ships in Company; Captain Swan, and his Ten⯑der; Captain Townley, and his Tender. It was ſo [257] ordered that Captain Swan ſhould lye Eight or Ten Leagues off ſhore, and the reſt about a League di⯑ſtant each from other, between him and the Cape, that ſo we might not miſs the Philippine Ship; but we wanted Proviſion, and therefore we ſent Capt. Townley's Bark, with 50 or 60 Men to the Weſt of the Cape, to ſearch about for ſome Town or Planta⯑tions, where we might get Proviſion of any ſort. The reſt of us in the mean time cruiſing in our Stations. The 17th Day the Bark came to us again, but had got nothing, for they could not get about the Cape, becauſe the Wind on this Coaſt is commonly be⯑tween the N. W. and the S. W. which makes it very difficult getting to the Weſtward; but they left four Canoas with 46 Men at the Cape, who reſol⯑ved to row to the Weſtward. The 18th Day we ſailed to the Keys of Chametly to fill our Water. Theſe Keys or Iſlands of Chametly are about 16 or 18 Leagues to the Eaſtward of Cape Corrientes. They are ſmall, low, and woody, invironed with Rocks; there are five of them lying in the form of an half Moon, not a Mile from the ſhore, and be⯑tween them and the Main is very good Riding, ſe⯑cure from any Wind. The Spaniards do report, that here live Fiſhermen, to fiſh for the Inhabitants of the City of Purification. This is ſaid to be a large Town, the beſt hereabouts; but is 14 Leagues up in the Country.

The 20th inſtant we entred within theſe Iſlands, paſſing in on the S. E. ſide, and Anchored between the Iſlands and the Main, in five fathom clean Sand. Here we found good freſh water and wood, and caught plenty of Rock-fiſh with Hook and Line, a ſort of Fiſh I deſcribed at the Iſle of John Fernando, but we ſaw no ſign of Inhabitants, beſides three or four old Hutts; therefore I do believe that the Spaniſh or Indian Fiſhermen come hither only at Lent, or ſome other ſuch Seaſon, but that they do not live [258] here conſtantly. The 21ſt Day Captain Townley went away, with about 60 Men, to take an Indian Village, 7 or 8 Leagues from hence to the Weſtward more towards the Cape, and the next Day we went to cruiſe off the Cape, where Captain Townley was to meet us. The 24th Day, as we were cruiſing off the Cape, the four Canoas before-mentioned, which Captain Townley's Bark left at the Cape, came off to us. They, after the Bark left them, paſt to the VVeſt of the Cape, and rowed into the Valley Valderas, or perhaps Val d' Iris; for it ſigni⯑fies the Valley of Flags.

This Valley lies in the bottom of a pretty deep Bay, that runs in between Cape Corrientes on the S. E. and the point of Pontique on the N. VV. which two places are about 10 Leagues aſunder. The Valley is about 3 Leagues wide; there is a level ſandy Bay againſt the Sea, and good ſmooth land⯑ing. In the midſt of the Bay is a fine River, where⯑into Boats may enter; but it is brackiſh at the latter end of the dry Seaſon, which is in February, March, and part of April. I ſhall ſpeak more of the Seaſons in my Chapter of VVinds, in the Ap⯑pendix. This Valley is bounded within Land, with a ſmall green Hill, that makes a very gentle de⯑ſcent into the Valley, and affords a very pleaſant proſpect to Sea-ward. It is inriched with fruitful Savannahs, mixt with Groves of Trees fit for any uſes, beſides Fruit-Trees in abundance, as Guava's, Oranges and Limes, which here grow wild in ſuch plenty, as if Nature had deſigned it only for a Garden. The Savannahs are full of fat Bulls and Cows, and ſome Horſes, but no Houſe in ſight.

VVhen our Canoas came to this pleaſant Valley, they landed 37 Men, and marched into the Coun⯑try ſeeking for ſome Houſes. They had not gone paſt three Mile before they were attackt by 150 Spa⯑niards, Horſe and Foot: There was a ſmall thin [259] VVood cloſe by them, into which our Men retreat⯑ed, to ſecure themſelves from the fury of the Horſe: Yet the Spaniards rode in among them, and attackt them very furiouſly, till the Spaniſh Captain, and 17 more, tumbled dead off their Horſes: then the reſt retreated, being many of them wounded. VVe loſt four Men, and had two deſperately wounded. In this action, the Foot, who were armed with Lances and Swords, and were the greateſt number, never made any attack; the Horſemen had each a brace of Piſtols, and ſome ſhort Guns. If the Foot had come in, they had certainly deſtroy'd all our Men. VVhen the Skirmiſh was over, our Men placed the two wounded Men on Horſes, and came to their Canoas. There they kill'd one of the Horſes, and dreſs'd it, being afraid to venture into the Savannah to kill a Bullock, of which there was ſtore. VVhen they had eaten, and ſatisfied themſelves, they re⯑turned aboard. The 25th Day, being Chriſtmaſs, we cruiſed in pretty near the Cape, and ſent in 3 Canoas with the Strikers to get Fiſh, being deſi⯑rous to have a Chriſtmas Dinner. In the Afternoon they returned aboard with three great Jew fiſh, which feaſted us all, and the next Day we ſent a⯑ſhoar our Canoas again, and got three or four more.

Captain Townley, who went from us at Chametly, came aboard the 28th Day, and brought about 40 Buſhels of Maiz. He had landed to the Eaſtward of Cape Corrientes, and march'd to an Indian Village that is 4 or 5 Leagues in the Country. The Indians ſeeing him coming, ſet two Houſes on fire that were full of Maiz, and run away; yet he and his Men got in other Houſes as much as they could bring down on their backs, which he brought aboard.

year 1686 We cruiſed off the Cape till the firſt Day of Ja⯑nuary, 1686. and then made towards the Valley Valderas, to hunt for Beef, and before Night we Anchored in the bottom of the Bay, in 60 fathom [260] Water a Mile from the Shoar. Here we ſtay'd hunting till the 7th Day, and Captain Swan and Captain Townley went aſhoar every Morning with about 240 Men, and marched to a ſmall Hill; where they remained with 50 or 60 Men to watch the Spaniards, who appeared in great companies on other Hills not far diſtant, but did never attempt any thing againſt our Men. Here we killed and ſalt⯑ed above two Months Meat, beſides what we ſpent freſh; and might have killed as much more, if we had been better ſtored with Salt. Our hopes of meeting the Philippine Ship were now over; for we did all conclude, that while we were neceſſitated to hunt here for Proviſions, ſhe was paſt by to the Eaſtward, as indeed ſhe was, as we did underſtand afterwards by Priſoners. So this deſign fail'd, through Captain Townley's eagerneſs after the Lima Ship, which he attempted in Acapulco Harbour, as I have related. For though we took a little Flow⯑er hard by, yet the ſame Guide which told us of that Ship, would have conducted us where we might have had ſtore of Beef and Maiz: but inſtead there⯑of, we loſt both our time, and the opportunity of providing our ſelves; and ſo we were forced to be victualling, when we ſhould have been cruiſing off Cape Corrientes in expectation of the Manila Ship.

Hitherto we had coaſted along here with two dif⯑ferent deſigns; the one was to get the Manila Ship, which would have inriched us beyond meaſure; and this Captain Townley was moſt for. Sir Tho. Cavendiſh formerly took the Manila Ship off Cape St. Lucas in California, (where we alſo would have waited for her, had we been early enough ſtored with Proviſions, to have met her there) and threw much rich Goods over-board. The other deſign, which Captain Swan and our Crew were moſt for, was to ſearch along the Coaſt for rich Towns, and Mines chiefly of Gold and Silver, which we were [261] aſſured were in this Country, and we hoped near the ſhoar: not knowing (as we afterwards found) that it was in effect an Inland Country, its Wealth remote from the South Sea Coaſt, and having little or no commerce with it, its Trade being driven Eaſtward with Europe by La Vera Cruz. Yet we had ſtill ſome expectation of Mines, and ſo reſolved to Steer on farther Northward; but Captain Town⯑ley, who had no other deſign in coming on this Coaſt, but to meet this Ship, reſolved to return again towards the Coaſt of Peru.

In all this Voyage on the Mexican Coaſt, we had with us a Captain, and two or three of his Men, of our friendly Indians of the Iſthmus of Darien; who having conducted over ſome parties of our Privateers, and expreſſing a deſire to go along with us, were received, and kindly entertained aboard our Ships; and we were pleas'd in having, by this means, Guides ready provided, ſhould we be for returning over Land, as ſeveral of us thought to do, rather than ſail round about. But at this time, we of Captain Swan's Ship deſigning farther to the North-Weſt; and Captain Townley going back, we com⯑mitted theſe our Indian Friends to his care, to carry them home. So here we parted; he to the Eaſt⯑ward, and we to the Weſtward, intending to ſearch as far to the Weſtward as the Spaniards were ſettled.

It was the 7th Day of January in the Morning when we ſailed from this pleaſant Valley. The Wind was at N. E. and the weather fair. At 11 a Clock the Sea-wind came at N. W. Before Night we paſſed by Point Pontique; this is the Weſt point of the Bay of the Valley of Valderas, and is diſtant from Cape Corrientes 10 Leagues. This point is in lat. 20 d. 50 m. North; it is high, round, rocky and barren. At a diſtance it appears like an Iſland. A league to the Weſt of this point are two ſmall bar⯑ren [262] Iſlands, called the Iſlands of Pontique. There are ſeveral high, ſharp, white Rocks, that lie ſcat⯑tering about them: We paſs'd between theſe rocky Iſlands on the left, and the Main on the right, for there is no danger. The Sea-coaſt beyond this point runs Northward for about 18 Leagues, making ma⯑ny ragged points, with ſmall ſandy Bays between them. The Land by the Sea-ſide is low and pretty woody; but in the Country, full of high, ſharp, barren, rugged, unpleaſant Hills.

The 14th Day we had ſight of a ſmall white Rock, which appears very much like a Ship under ſail. This Rock is in lat. 21 d. 15 m. it is 3 Leagues from the Main. There is a good Channel between it and the Main, where you will have 12 or 14 fathom Water near the Iſland; but running nearer the Main, you will have gradual ſoundings, till you come in with the ſhoar. At Night we Anchored in ſix fathom Water, near a League from the Main, in good ouzy ground. We caught a great many Cat⯑fiſh here, and at ſeveral places on this Coaſt, both before and after this.

From this Iſland the Land runs more Northerly, making a fair ſandy Bay; but the Sea falls in with ſuch violence on the ſhoar, that there is no land⯑ing, but very good Anchoring on all the Coaſt, and gradual Soundings. About a League off ſhoar, you will havo 6 fathom, and 4 Mile off ſhoar you will have 7 fathom Water. We came to an Anchor every Evening; and in the Mornings we ſailed off with the Land-wind, which we found at N. E. and the Sea-breezes at N. W.

The 20th Day we Anchored about three Miles on the Eaſt ſide of the Iſlands Chametly, different from thoſe of that name before-mentioned; for theſe are ſix ſmall Iſlands, in lat. 23 d. 11 m. a little to the South of the Tropick of Cancer, and about 3 Leagues from the Main, where a Salt Lake hath its out-let [263] into the Sea. Theſe Iſles are of an indifferent heighth: Some of them have a few ſhrubby buſhes; the reſt are bare of any ſort of Wood. They are rocky round by the Sea; only one or two of them have ſandy Bays on the North ſide. There is a ſort of Fruit growing on theſe Iſlands called Penguins; and 'tis all the Fruit they have.

The Penguin Fruit is of two ſorts, the yellow and the red. The yellow Penguin grows on a green Stem, as big as a Man's Arm, above a Foot high from the ground: The Leaves of this Stalk are half a Foot long, and an Inch broad; the edges full of ſharp prickles. The Fruit grows at the Head of the Stalk, in 2 or 3 great cluſters, 16 or 20 in a cluſter. The Fruit is as big as a Pullets Egg, of a round form, and in colour yellow. It has a thick Skin or Rind, and the inſide is full of ſmall black Seeds, mixt among the Fruit. It is ſharp pleaſant Fruit. The red Penguin is of the bigneſs and colour of a ſmall dry Onion, and is in ſhape much like a Nine-pin; for it grows not on a Stalk, or Stem, as the other, but one end on the ground, the other ſtanding up⯑right. Sixty or ſeventy grow thus together, as cloſe as they can ſtand one by another, and all from the ſame Root, or cluſter of Roots. Theſe Penguins are encompaſs'd or fenced with long Leaves, about a Foot and an half, or two Foot long, and prickly like the former; and the Fruit too is much alike. They are both wholſome, and never offend the Stomach; but thoſe that eat many, will find a heat or tickling in their Fundament. They grow ſo plentifully in the Bay of Campeachy, that there is no paſſing for their high prickly Leaves.

There are ſome Guanoes on theſe Iſlands, but no other ſort of Land Animal. The Bays about the Iſlands are ſometimes viſited with Seals; and this was the firſt place where I had ſeen any of theſe Animals, on the North ſide of the Equator, in theſe [264] Seas. For the Fiſh on this ſandy Coaſt lye moſt in the Lagunes or Salt-lakes, and Mouths of Rivers; but the Seals come not ſo much there, as I judge: For this being no rocky Coaſt, where Fiſh reſort moſt, there ſeems to be but little Food for the Seals, unleſs they will venture upon Cat-fiſh.

Capt. Swan went away from hence with 100 Men in our Canoas, to the Northward, to ſeek for the River Coolecan, poſſibly the ſame with the River of Paſtla, which ſome Maps lay down in the Province or Region of Cullacan. This River lieth in about 24 d. N. lat. We were informed, that there is a fair rich Spaniſh Town ſeated on the Eaſt-ſide of it, with Savannahs about it, full of Bulls and Cows; and that the Inhabitants of this Town paſs over in Boats to the Iſland California, where they fiſh for Pearl. I have been told ſince by a Spaniard, that ſaid he had been at the Iſland California, that there are great plenty of Pearl Oyſters there, and that the Native Indians of California, near the Pearl-fiſhery, are mortal Enemies to the Spaniards. Our Canoas were abſent 3 or 4 Days, and ſaid they had been above 30 leagues but found no River; that the Land by the Sea was low, and all ſandy Bay; but ſuch a great Sea, that there was no landing. They met us in their return in the lat. 23 d. 30 m. coaſting along ſhore after them towards Cullacan; ſo we returned again to the Eaſtward. This was the fartheſt that I was to the N. on this Coaſt.

Six or ſeven leagues N. N. W. from the Iſles of Cha⯑metly, there is a ſmall narrow entrance into a Lake, which runs about 12 leagues Eaſterly, parallel with the ſhore, making many ſmall low Mangrove Iſlands. The Mouth of this Lake is in lat. about 23 d. 30 m. It is called by the Spaniards Rio de Sall: for it is a ſalt Lake. There is Water enough for Boats and Canoas to enter, and ſmooth landing af⯑ter you are in. On the Weſt-ſide of it, there is an [265] Houſe, and an Eſtantion, or Farm of large Cattle. Our Men went into the Lake and landed, and coming to the Houſe, found 7 or 8 Buſhels of Maiz: but the Cattle were driven away by the Spaniards, yet there our Men took the Owner of the Eſtantion, and brought him aboard. He ſaid, that the Beefs were driven a great way in the Country for fear we ſhould kill them. While we lay here, Capt. Swan went into this Lake again, and landed 150 Men on the N. E. ſide, and marched into the Country: About a Mile from the Landing-place, as they were entring a dry Salina, or Salt-pond, they fired at two Indians that croſs'd the way before them; one of them being wounded in the Thigh, fell down, and being examined, he told our Men, that there was an Indian Town 4 or 5 leagues off, and that the way which they were going would bring them thither. While they were in Diſcourſe with the Indian they were attack'd by 100 Spaniſh Horſemen, who came with a deſign to ſcare them back, but wanted both Arms and Hearts to do it.

Our Men paſt on from hence, and in their way marched through a Savannah of long dry Graſs. This the Spaniards ſet on fire, thinking to burn them, but that did not hinder our Men from marching forward, though it did trouble them a little. They rambled for want of Guides all this Day, and part of the next, before they came to the Town the Indian ſpoke of. There they found a com⯑pany of Spaniards and Indians, who made head againſt them, but were driven out of the Town after a ſhort Diſpute. Here our Surgeon and one Man more were wounded with Arrows, but none of the reſt were hurt. When they came into the Town they found two or three Indians wounded, who told them that the Name of the Town was Maſſaclan; that there were a few Spaniards living in it, and the reſt were Indians; that five Leagues from this Town [266] there were two rich Gold Mines, where the Spaniards of Compoſtella, which is the chiefeſt Town in theſe parts, kept many Slaves and Indians at Work for Gold. Here our Men lay that Night, and the next Morning packt up all the Maiz that they could find, and brought it on their backs to the Canoas, and came aboard.

We lay here till the 2d of February, and then Captain Swan went away with about 80 Men to the River Roſario; where they landed, and marched to an Indian Town of the ſame Name. They found it about 9 Mile from the Sea; the way to it fair and even. This was a fine little Town, of about 60 or 70 Houſes, with a fair Church; and it was chiefly inhabited with Indians, they took Priſoners there, which told them, That the River Roſario is rich in Gold, and that the Mines are not above two Leagues from the Town. Captain Swan did not think it convenient to go to the Mines, but made haſte aboard with the Maiz which he took there, to the quantity of about 80 or 90 Buſhels; and which to us, in the ſcarcity we were in of Proviſions, was at that time more valuable than all the Gold in the World; and had he gone to the Mines, the Spaniards would probably have deſtroyed the Corn before his return. The 3d of February, we went with our Ships alſo towards the River Roſario, and Anchored the next Day againſt the Rivers mouth, 7 fathom, good ouzy ground, a League from the ſhoar. This River is in lat. 22d. 51 m. N. When you are at an Anchor againſt this River, you will ſee a round Hill, like a Sugar-loaf, a little way within Land, right over the River, and bearing N. E. by N. To the Weſtward of that Hill there is another pretty long Hill, called by the Spaniards Caput Cavalli, or the Horſe's head.

The 7th day Captain Swan came a board with the Maiz which he got. This was but a ſmall quantity for ſo many Men as we were, eſpecially conſidering [267] the place we were in, being ſtrangers, and having no Pilots to direct or guide us into any River; and we being without all ſort of Proviſion, but what we were forced to get in this manner from the ſhoar. And though our Pilot-Book directed us well enough to find the Rivers, yet for want of Guides to carry us to the Settlements, we were forced to ſearch 2 or 3 Days before we could find a place to land: for, as I have ſaid before, beſides the Seas being too rough for landing in many places, they have neither Boat, Bark, nor Canoa, that we could ever ſee or hear of: and therefore as there are no ſuch land⯑ing places in theſe Rivers, as there are in the North Seas; ſo when we were landed, we did not know which way to go to any Town, except we acciden⯑tally met with a path. Indeed, the Spaniards and Indians, whom we had aboard, knew the Names of ſeveral Rivers and Towns near them, and knew the Towns when they ſaw them; but they knew not the way to go to them from the Sea.

The 8th day, Captain Swan ſent about 40 Men to ſeek for the River Oleta, which is to the Eaſt⯑ward of the River Roſario. The next day we fol⯑lowed after with the Ships, having the Wind at W. N. W. and fair weather. In the Afternoon our Canoas came again to us, for they could not find the River Oleta; therefore we deſigned next for the River St. Jago, to the Eaſtward ſtill. The 11th day in the Evening, we Anchored againſt the mouth of the River, in 7 fathom Water, good ſoft ouzy ground, and about two Mile from the ſhoar. There was a high white Rock without us, called Maxentelbo. This Rock at a diſtance, appears like a Ship under ſail; it bore from us W. N. W. diſtant about 3 Leagues. The Hill Zeliſco bore S. E. which is a very high Hill in the Country, with a Saddle or bending on the top. The River St. Jago is in lat. 22 d. 15 m. It is one of the principal Rivers on [268] this Coaſt; there is 10 Foot Water on the Bar at low Water, but how much it flows here I know not. The mouth of this River is near half a Mile broad, and very ſmooth entring. Within the mouth it is broader, for there are three or four Ri⯑vers more meet there, and iſſue all out together, is freſh Water, is brackiſh a great way up; yet there, the Water is to be had, by digging or making Wells in the ſandy Bay, two or three Foot deep, juſt at the mouth of the River.

The 11th Day Captain Swan ſent 70 Men in four Canoas into this River, to ſeek a Town; for al⯑though we had no intelligence of any, yet the Country appearing very promiſing, we did not queſtion but they would find Inhabitants before they returned. They ſpent two Days in rowing up and down the Creeks and Rivers; at laſt they came to a large Field of Maiz, which was almoſt ripe: they immediately fell to gathering as faſt as they could, and intended to lade the Canoas; but ſeeing an Indian that was ſet to watch the Corn, they quitted that troubleſome and tedious work, and ſeiz'd him, and brought him aboard, in hopes by his information, to have ſome more eaſie and ex⯑pedite way of a ſupply, by finding Corn ready cut and dried. He being examined, ſaid, that there was a Town called Santa Pecaque, four leagues from the place where he was taken, and that if we de⯑ſigned to go thither he would undertake to be our Guide. Captain Swan immediately ordered his Men to make ready, and the ſame Evening went away with Eight Canoas and 140 Men, taking the Indian for their Guide.

He rowed about five Leagues up the River, and landed the next Morning. The River at this place was not above Piſtol-ſhot wide, and the Banks pretty high on each ſide, and the Land plain and even. He left 23 Men to guard the Canoas, and [269] marcht with the reſt to the Town. He ſet out from the Canoas at ſix a Clock in the Morning, and reach'd the Town by 10. The way through which he paſſed was very plain, part of it Wood-land, part Savannahs The Savannahs were full of Horſes, Bulls and Cows. The Spaniards ſeeing him coming run all away; ſo he entred the Town without the leaſt oppoſition.

This Town of Santa Pecaque ſtands on a Plain, in a Savannah, by the ſide of a Wood, with many Fruit Trees about it. It is but a ſmall Town, but very regular, after the Spaniſh mode, with a Parade in the midſt. The Houſes fronting the Parade had all Balconies: there were two Churches; one a⯑gainſt the Parade, the other at the end of the Town. It is inhabited moſt with Spaniards. Their chiefeſt occupation is Husbandry. There are alſo ſome Carriers, who are imployed by the Merchants of Compoſtella, to Trade for them to and from the Mines.

Compoſtella is a rich Town, about 21 leagues from hence. It is the chiefeſt in all this part of the King⯑dom, and is reported to have 70 white Families; which is a great matter in theſe parts; for it may be, that ſuch a Town hath not leſs than 500 Fami⯑lies of copper-coloured People, beſides the white. The Silver Mines are about five or ſix leagues from Santa Pecaque; where, as we were told, the Inha⯑bitants of Compoſtella had ſome hundreds of Slaves at Work. The Silver here, and all over the King⯑dom of Mexico, is ſaid to be finer and richer in pro⯑portion than that of Potoſi or Peru, tho' the Oar be not ſo abundant; and the Carriers of this Town of Santa Pecaque, carry the Oar to Compoſtella, where it is refined. Theſe Carriers, or Sutlers, alſo furniſh the Slaves at the Mines with Maiz, whereof here was great plenty now in the Town deſigned for that uſe: Here was alſo Sugar, Salt, and Salt-fiſh.

[270] Captain Swan's only buſineſs at Santa Pecaque was to get Proviſion; therefore he ordered his Men to divide themſelves into two parts, and by turns carry down the Proviſion to the Canoas; one half remaining in the Town to ſecure what they had taken, while the other half were going and com⯑ing. In the Afternoon they caught ſome Horſes, and the next Morning, being the 17th day, 57 Men, and ſome Horſes, went laden with Maiz to the Canoas. They found them, and the Men left to guard them, in good order; though the Spaniards had given them a ſmall diverſion, and wounded one Man: but our Men of the Canoas landed, and drove them away. Theſe that came loaded to the Canoas left 7 Men more there, ſo that now they were 30 Men to guard the Canoas. At Night the other returned; and the 18th Day in the Morning, that half which ſtaid the Day before at the Town, took their turn of going with every Man his bur⯑then, and 24 Horſes-laden. Before they returned, Captain Swan, and his other Men at the Town, caught a Priſoner, who ſaid, that there were near a thouſand Men of all colours, Spaniards and Indians, Negroes and Mulatto's, in arms, at a place called St. Jago, but 3 Leagues off, the chief Town on this River; that the Spaniards were armed with Guns and Piſtols, and the Copper-coloured with Swords and Lances. Captain Swan, fearing the ill conſe⯑quence of ſeparating his ſmall Company, was re⯑ſolved the next Day to march away with the whole Party; and therefore he ordered his Men to catch as many Horſes as they could, that they might carry the more Proviſion with them. Accordingly, the next Day, being the 19th Day of February 1686. Captain Swan called out his Men betimes to be gone; but they refuſed to go, and ſaid, that they would not leave the Town till all the Proviſion was in the Canoas: Therefore he was forced to [271] yield to them, and ſuffered half the company to go as before: They had now 54 Horſes laden, which Captain Swan ordered to be tied one to another, and the Men to go in two bodies, 25 before, and as many behind; but the Men would go at their own rate, every Man leading his Horſe. The Spaniards obſerved their manner of marching, and laid an Ambuſh about a Mile from the Town, which they managed with ſuch ſucceſs, that falling on our body of Men, who were guarding the Corn to the Canoas, they killed them every one. Capt. Swan hearing the report of their Guns, ordered his Men, who were then in the Town with him, to march out to their aſſiſtance; but ſome oppoſed him, de⯑ſpiſing their Enemies, till two of the Spaniards Horſes, that had loſt their Riders, came galloping into the Town in a great fright, both bridled and ſaddled, with each a pair of Holſters by their ſides, and one had a Carbine newly diſcharged; which was an apparent token that our Men had been engaged, and that by Men better armed than they imagined they ſhould meet with. Therefore Captain Swan immediately march'd out of the Town, and his Men all followed him; and when he came to the place where the Engagement had been, he ſaw all his Men that went out in the Morn⯑ing lying dead. They were ſtript, and ſo cut and mangl'd that he ſcarce knew one Man. Captain Swan had not more Men then with him, than thoſe were who lay dead before him, yet the Spaniards never came to oppoſe him, but kept at a great di⯑ſtance; for 'tis probable, the Spaniards had not cut off ſo many Men of ours, but with the loſs of a great many of their own. So he marched down to the Canoas, and came aboard the Ship with the Maiz that was already in the Canoas. We had a⯑bout 50 Men killed, and among the reſt, my Inge⯑nious Friend Mr. Ringroſe was one, who wrote that [272] Part of the Hiſtory of the Buccaneers, which relates to Captain Sharp. He was at this time Cape-Mer⯑chant, or Super-Cargo of Captain Swan's Ship. He had no mind to this Voyage; but was neceſſitated to engage in it or ſtarve.

This loſs diſcouraged us from attempting any thing more hereabouts. Therefore Captain Swan propoſed to go to Cape St. Lucas on California to careen. He had two reaſons for this: Firſt, that he thought he could lye there ſecure from the Spaniards; and next, that if he could get a Commerce with the Indians there, he might make a diſcovery in the Lake of California, and by their Aſſiſtance try for ſome of the Plate of New Mexico.

This Lake of California (for ſo the Sea, Channel or Streight, between that and the Continent, is called) is but little known to the Spaniards, by what I could ever learn; for their Drafts do not agree about it. Some of them do make California an Iſland, but give no manner of account of the Tides flowing in the Lake, or what depth of Water there is, or of the Harbours, Rivers, or Creeks, that border on it: Whereas on the Weſt ſide of the Iſland, towards the Aſiatick Coaſt, their Pilot-Book gives an account of the Coaſt from Cape St. Lucas to 40 d. North. Some of their Drafts newly made do make California to join to the Main. I do believe that the Spaniards do not care to have this Lake diſ⯑covered, for fear leſt other European Nations ſhould get knowledge of it, and by that means viſit the Mines of New Mexico. We heard that not long before our arrival here, the Indians in the Province of New Mexico made an Inſurrection, and deſtroyed moſt of the Spaniards there, but that ſome of them flying towards the Gulph or Lake of California, made Canoas in that Lake, and got ſafe away; though the Indians of the Lake of California, ſeem to be at perfect Enmity with the Spaniards. We had [273] an old intelligent Spaniard now aboard, who ſaid that he ſpoke with a Frier that made his Eſcape among them.

New Mexico, by report of ſeveral Engliſh Priſoners there, and Spaniards I have met with, lieth N. W. from Old Mexico between four and 500 Leagues, and the biggeſt part of the Treaſure which is found in this Kingdom, is in that Province; but without doubt there are plenty of Mines in other parts, as well in this part of the Kingdom where we now were, as in other places; and probably, on the Main, bordering on the Lake of California; al⯑though not yet diſcovered by the Spaniards, who have Mines enough, and therefore, as yet, have no reaſon to diſcover more.

In my opinion, here might be very advantageous Diſcoveries made by any that would attempt it: for the Spaniards have more than they can well manage. I know, they would lie like the Dog in the Man⯑ger; altho' not able to eat themſelves, yet they would endeavour to hinder others. But the Voyage thither being ſo far, I take that to be one reaſon that hath hindered the Diſcoveries of theſe parts: yet it is poſſible, that a Man may find a nearer way hither than we came; I mean by the North Weſt.

I know there have been divers attempts made about a North Weſt Paſſage, and all unſucceſsful: yet I am of opinion, that ſuch a Paſſage may be found. All our Countrymen that have gone to diſcover the N. W. Paſſage, have endeavoured to paſs to the Weſtward, beginning their ſearch along Davis's or Hudſon's Bay. But if I was to go on this Diſcovery, I would go firſt into the South Seas, bend my courſe from thence along by California, and that way ſeek a Paſſage back into the Weſt Seas. For as others have ſpent the Summer, in firſt ſearching on this more known ſide nearer home, and ſo before they got through, the time of the [274] year obliged them to give over their ſearch, and provide for a long Courſe back again, for fear of being left in the Winter; on the contrary, I would ſearch firſt on the leſs known Coaſt of the South Sea-ſide, and then as the Year paſt away, I ſhould need no retreat, for I ſhould come farther into my knowledge, if I ſucceeded in my attempt, and ſhould be without that Dread and Fear which the others muſt have in paſſing from the known to the un⯑known: who, for ought I know, gave over their ſearch juſt as they were on the point of accompliſh⯑ing their Deſires.

I would take the ſame Method if I was to go to diſcover the North-Eaſt Paſſage. I would winter about Japan, Corea, or the North-Eaſt part of Chi⯑na; and taking the Spring and Summer before me, I would make my firſt trial on the Coaſt of Tar⯑tary, wherein, if I ſucceeded, I ſhould come into ſome known Parts, and have a great deal of time before me to reach Archangel or ſome other Port. Captain Wood, indeed, ſays, this N. Eaſt Paſſage is not to be found for Ice: but how often do we ſee that ſometimes Deſigns have been given over as impoſſible, and at another time, and by other ways, thoſe very things have been accompliſhed; but enough of this.

The next day after that fatal Skirmiſh near Santa Pecaque, Capt. Swan ordered all our Water to be filled, and to get ready to ſail. The 21ſt day we ſailed from hence, directing our Courſe towards Ca⯑lifornia: we had the wind at N. W. and W. N. W. a ſmall gale, with a great Sea out of the Weſt. We paſt by 3 Iſlands called the Maria's. After we paſt theſe Iſlands we had much wind at N. N. W. and N. W. and at N. with thick rainy weather. We beat till the 6th day of February, but it was againſt a brisk wind, and proved labour in vain. For we were now within reach of the Land Trade-wind, [275] which was oppoſite to us: but would we go to Cali⯑fornia upon the diſcovery, or otherwiſe we ſhould bear 60 or 70 Leagues off from the ſhoar; where we ſhould avoid the Land-winds, and have the be⯑nefit of the true Eaſterly Trade-wind.

Finding therefore that we got nothing, but ra⯑ther loſt ground, being then 21 d. 5 m. N. we ſteered away more to the Eaſtward again for the Iſlands Maria's, and the 7th day we came to an an⯑chor at the Eaſt-end of the middle Iſland, in 8 fa⯑thom Water, good clean Sand.

The Maria's are three uninhabited Iſlands in lat. 21 d. 40 m. they are diſtant from Cape St. Lu⯑cas on California 40 leagues, bearing Eaſt South Eaſt, and they are diſtant from Cape Corrientes 20 leagues, bearing upon the ſame points of the Com⯑paſs with Cape St. Lucas. They ſtretch N. W. and S. E. about 14 leagues. There are 2 or 3 ſmall high Rocks near them: The weſtermoſt of them is the biggeſt Iſland of the three; and they are all three of an indifferent heighth. The Soil is ſtony and dry, the Land in moſt places is covered with a ſhrubby ſort of Wood, very thick and trouble⯑ſome to paſs through. In ſome places there is plen⯑ty of ſtraight large Cedars, though ſpeaking of the places where I have found Cedars, Chap. 3. I for⯑got to mention this place. The Spaniards make mention of them in other places: but I ſpeak of thoſe which I have ſeen. All round by the Sea-ſide it is ſandy; and there is produced a green prickly Plant, whoſe leaves are much like the Penguin-leaf, and the root like the root of a Sempervive, but much larger. This root being bak'd in an Oven is good to eat: and the Indians on California, as I have been informed, have great part of their ſubſiſtence from theſe Roots. We made an Oven in a ſandy Bank, and baked of theſe Roots, and I eat of them: but none of us greatly cared for them. They taſte ex⯑actly [276] like the Roots of our Engliſh Burdock boil'd, of which I have eaten. Here are plenty of Gua⯑noes and Raccoons (a large ſort of Rat) and Indian Conies, and abundance of large Pigeons and Turtle-Doves. The Sea is alſo pretty well ſtored with Fiſh, and Turtle or Tortoiſe, and Seal. This is the ſe⯑cond place on this Coaſt where I did ſee any Seal: and this place helps to confirm what I have obſer⯑ved, that they are ſeldom ſeen but where there is plenty of Fiſh. Captain Swan gave the middle Iſland the Name of Prince George's Iſland.

The 8th Day we run nearer the Iſland, and ancho⯑red in five fathom, and moored Head and Stern, and unrigg'd both Ship and Bark, in order to Careen. Here Capt. Swan propoſed to go into the Eaſt-Indies. Many were well pleaſed with the Voyage; but ſome thought, ſuch was their Ignorance, that he would carry them out of the World; for about two thirds of our Men did not think there was any ſuch way to be found; but at laſt he gained their Conſents.

At our firſt coming hither we did eat nothing but Seal; but after the firſt 2 or 3 Days our Strikers brought aboard Turtle every Day; on which we fed all the time that we lay here, and ſaved our Maiz for our Voyage. Here alſo we meaſured all our Maiz, and found we had about 80 Buſhels. This we divided into three parts; one for the Bark, and two for the Ship; our Men were divided alſo, 100 Men aboard the Ship, and 50 aboard the Bark, beſides three or four Slaves in each.

I had been a long time ſick of a Dropſie, a Di⯑ſtemper, whereof, as I ſaid before, many of our Men died; ſo here I was laid and covered all but my Head in the hot Sand: I indured it near half an Hour, and then was taken out and laid to Sweat in a Tent. I did ſweat exceedingly while I was in the Sand, and I do believe it did me much good, for I grew well ſoon after.

[277] VVe ſtaid here till the 26th Day, and then both Veſſels being clean, we ſailed to the Valley of Balderas to VVater, for we could not do it here now. In the wet Seaſon indeed here is VVater enough, for the Brooks then run down plentifully; but now, though there was VVater, yet it was bad filling, it being a great way to fetch it from the holes where it lodged. The 28th Day we anchored in the bottom of the Bay in the Valley of Balderas, right againſt the River, where we watered before; but this River was brackiſh now in the dry ſeaſon; and therefore we went 2 or 3 Leagues nearer Cape Corrientes, and anchored by a ſmall round Iſland, not half a Mile from the Shoar. The Iſland is about four Leagues to the Northward of the Cape; and the Brook where we filled our VVater is juſt within the Iſland, upon the Main. Here our Strikers ſtruck 9 or 10 Jew-fiſh; ſome we did eat, and the reſt we ſalted: and the 29th Day we fill'd 32 Tuns of very good VVater.

Having thus provided our ſelves, we had nothing more to do, but to put in execution our intended Expedition to the Eaſt-Indies, in hopes of ſome better ſucceſs there, than we had met with on this little frequented Coaſt. VVe came on it full of ex⯑pectations; for beſides the richneſs of the Coun⯑try, and the probability of finding ſome Sea-Ports worth viſiting, we perſwaded our ſelves that there muſt needs be Shipping and Trade here, and that Acapulca and La Vera Cruz were to the Kingdom of Mexico, what Panama and Portobel are to that of Pe⯑ru, viz. Marts for carrying on a conſtant Commerce between the South and North Seas, as indeed they are. But whereas we expected that this Commerce ſhould be managed by Sea, we found our ſelves miſtaken: that of Mexico being almoſt wholly a Land-trade, and managed more by Mules than by Ships: ſo that inſtead of profit we met with little [278] on this Coaſt, beſides fatigues, hardſhips and loſſes, and ſo were the more eaſily induced to try what better fortune we might have in the Eaſt-Indies. But to do right to Captain Swan, he had no in⯑tention to be as a Privateer in the Eaſt-Indies; but, as he hath often aſſured me with his own Mouth, he reſolved to take the firſt opportunity of return⯑ing to England: So that he feigned a compliance with ſome of his Men, who were bent upon going to cruiſe at Manila, that he might have leiſure to take ſome favourable opportunity of quitting the Privateer Trade.

CHAP. X.

I Have given an Account in the laſt Chapter of the Reſolutions we took of going over to the Eaſt-Indies. But having more calmly conſidered on the length of our Voyage, from hence to Guam, one of the Ladrone Iſlands, which is the firſt place that we could to [...]ch at, and there alſo being not certain to find Proviſions, moſt of our Men were almoſt daunted at the thoughts of it; for we had not 60 days Proviſion, at a little more than half a pint of Maiz a day for each Man, and no other Proviſion, except 3 Meals of ſalted Jew-fiſh; and we had a great many Rars aboard, which we could not hinder from eating part of our Maiz. Beſide, the great diſtance between Cape Corrientes and Guam: which is variouſly ſet down. The Spa⯑niards, [280] who have the greateſt reaſon to know beſt, make it to be between 2300 and 2400 Leagues; our Books alſo reckon it differently, between 90 and 100 degrees, which all comes ſhort indeed of 2000 Leagues, but even that was a Voyage enough to frighten us, conſidering our ſcanty Proviſions. Captain Swan, to encourage his Men to go with him, perſwaded them that the Engliſh Books did give the beſt account of the diſtance; his Reaſons were many, although but weak. He urged among the reſt, that Sir Thomas Candiſh and Sir Francis Drake, did run it in leſs than 50 Days, and that he did not queſtion but that our Ships were better ſailers, than thoſe which were built in that Age, and that he did not doubt to get there in little more than 40 Days: This being the beſt time in the Year for breezes, which undoubtedly is the reaſon that the Spaniards ſet out from Acapulco about this time; and that although they are 60 Days in their Voyage, it is becauſe they are great Ships, deep laden, and very heavy ſailers; beſides, they wanting nothing, are in no great haſte in their way, but ſail with a great deal of their uſual Caution. And when they come near the Iſland Guam, they lie by in the Night for a Week, before they make Land. In prudence we alſo ſhould have contrived to lie by in the Night when we came near Land, for other⯑wiſe we might have run aſhoar, or have outſailed the Iſlands, and loſt ſight of them before Morning. But our bold Adventures ſeldom proceed with ſuch warineſs when in any ſtraights.

But of all Captain Swan's Arguments, that which prevailed moſt with them was, his promiſing them, as I have ſaid, to cruiſe off the Manila's. So he and his Men being now agreed, and they incouraged with the hope of gain, which works its way thro' all Difficulties, we ſet out from Cape Corrientes March the 31ſt, 1686. We were 2 Ships in Company, [281] Captain Swan's Ship, and a Bark commanded un⯑der Captain Swan, by Captain Teat, and we were 150 Men, 100 aboard of the Ship, and 50 aboard the Bark, beſide Slaves, as I ſaid.

We had a ſmall Land-wind at E. N. E. which carried us 3 or 4 Leagues, then the Sea-wind came at W. N. W. a freſh gale, ſo we ſteered away S. W. By 6 a Clock in the Evening we were about 9 leagues S. W. from the Cape, then we met a Land-wind which blew freſh all Night, and the next Morning about 10 a Clock we had the Sea-breez at N. N. E. ſo that at Noon we were 30 leagues from the Cape. It blew a freſh gale of Wind, which carried us off into the true Trade-wind, (of the difference of which Trade-winds I ſhall ſpeak in the Chapter of Winds, in the Appendix) for although the con⯑ſtant Sea-breez near the Shoar is at W. N. W. yet the true Trade off at Sea, when you are clear of the Land-winds, is at E. N. E. At firſt we had it at N. N. E. ſo it came about Northerly, and then to the Eaſt as we run off. At 250 leagues diſtance from the Shoar we had it at E. N. E. and there it ſtood till we came within 40 leagues of Guam. When we had eaten up our 3 Meals of ſalted Jew⯑fiſh, in ſo many Days time, we had nothing but our ſmall allowance of Maiz.

After the 31ſt Day of March we made great runs every Day, having very fair clear Weather, and a freſh Trade wind, which we made uſe of with all our Sails, and we made many good Obſervations of the Sun. At our firſt ſetting out, we ſteer'd into the lat. of 13 degrees, which is near the lat. of Guam; then we ſteered Weſt, keeping in that lat. By that time we had ſailed 20 Days, our Men ſee⯑ing we made ſuch great runs, and the Wind like to continue, repined becauſe they were kept at ſuch ſhort allowance. Captain Swan endeavoured to perſwade them to have a little Patience; yet [282] nothing but an augmentation of their daily allow⯑ance would appeaſe them. Captain Swan, though with much reluctance, gave way to a ſmall en⯑largement of our Commons, for now we had not above 10 ſpoonfuls of boil'd Maiz a Man, once a day, whereas before we had [...]: I do believe that this ſhort allowance did me a great deal of good, though others were weakened by it; for I found that my Strength encreaſed, and my Dropſie wore off. Yet I drank 3 times every 24 Hours; but many of our Men did not drink in 9 or 10 days time, and ſome not in 12 days; one of our Men did not drink in 17 days time, and ſaid he was not adry when he did drink; yet he made water every day more or leſs. One of our Men in the midſt of theſe hardſhips was found guilty of theft, and condemned for the ſame, to have [...] blows from each Man in the Ship, with a 2 inch and a half rope on his bare back. Captain Swan began firſt, and ſtruck with a good will; whoſe example was followed by all of us.

It was very ſtrange, that in all this Voyage we did not ſee one Fiſh, not ſo much as a Flying-Fiſh, nor any ſort of Fowl; but at one time, when we were by my account 4975 miles Weſt from Cape Corrientes, then we ſaw a great number of Boobies, which we ſuppoſed came from ſome Rocks not far from us, which were mentioned in ſome of our Sea-Carts, but we did not ſee them.

After we had run the 1900 Leagues by our reck⯑oning, which made the Engliſh account to Guam, the Men began to murmur againſt Captain Swan, for perſwading them to come this Voyage; but he gave them fair words, and told them that the Spa⯑niſh account might probably be the trueſt, and ſee⯑ing the Gale was likely to continue, a ſhort time longer would end our troubles.

[283] As we drew nigh the Iſland, we met with ſome ſmall Rain, and the Clouds ſettling in the Weſt, were an apparent token that we were not far from Land; for in theſe Climates, betwixt or near the Tropicks, where the Trade-wind blows conſtantly, the Clouds which fly ſwift over head, yet ſeem near the Limb of the Horizon to hang without much motion or alteration, where the Land is near. I have often taken notice of it, eſpecially if it is high Land, for you ſhall then have the Clouds hang about it without any viſible motion.

The 20th day of May, our Bark being about 3 Leagues a-head of our Ship, ſailed over a rocky Shole, on which there was but 4 fathom water, and abundance of Fiſh ſwimming about the Rocks. They imagin'd by this that the Land was not far off; ſo they clap'd on a Wind with the Barks Head to the North, and being paſt the Shole lay by for us. When we came up with them, Captain Teat came aboard us, and related what he had ſeen. We were then in lat. 12. d. 55 m. ſteering Weſt. The Iſland Guam is laid down in Lat. 13. d. N. by the Spaniards, who are Maſters of it, keeping it as a baiting-place as they go to the Philippine Iſlands. Therefore we clap'd on a Wind and ſtood to North-ward, being ſomewhat troubled and doubtful whe⯑ther we were right, becauſe there is no Shole laid down, in the Spaniſh Drafts about the Iſland Guam, At 4 a Clock, to our great Joy, we ſaw the Iſland Guam, at about 8 Leagues diſtance.

It was well for Captain Swan that we got ſight of it before our Proviſion was ſpent, of which we had but enough for 3 days more; for, as I was af⯑terwards informed, the Men had contrived, firſt to kill Captain Swan, and eat him when the Victuals was gone, and after him all of us who were acceſ⯑ſary in promoting the undertaking this Voyage. This made Captain Swan ſay to me after our ar⯑arrival [284] at Guam, Ah! Dampier, you would have made them but a poor Meal; for I was as lean as the Captain was luſty and fleſhy. The Wind was at E. N. E. and the Land bore at N. N. E. therefore we ſtood to the Northward, till we brought the Iſland to bear Eaſt, and then we turned to get in to an anchor.

The account I have given hitherto of our Courſe from Cape Corrientes in the Kingdom of Mexico, (for I have mentioned another Cape of that name in Peru, South of the Bay of Panama) to Guam, one of the Ladrone Iſlands, hath been in the groſs. But for the ſatisfaction of thoſe who may think it ſerviceable to the fixing the Longitudes of theſe Parts, or to any other Uſe in Geography or Navi⯑gation, I have here ſubjoined a particular Table of every Days run, which was as follows.

[285]

[287] Now the Iſland Guam bore N. N. E. 8 Leagues diſt. this gives 22 m. to my Lat. and takes 9 from my Meridian diſt. ſo that the Iſland is in Lat. 13: 21; and the Merid. diſt. from Corrientes 7302 miles; which, reduced into degrees, makes 125 d. 11 m.

The Table conſiſts of 7 Columns. The firſt is of the days of the Month. The 2d Column con⯑tains each days courſe, or the point of the Compaſs we ran upon. The 3d gives the diſtance or length of ſuch courſe in Italian or Geometrical miles, (at the rate of 60 to a degree (or the Progreſs the Ship makes every day; and is reckoned always from noon to noon. But becauſe the Courſe is not al⯑ways made upon the ſame Rumb in a direct line, therefore the 4th and 5th Columns ſhew how ma⯑ny miles we ran to the South every day, and how many to the Weſt; which laſt was our main run in this Voyage. By the 17th of April we were got pretty near into the latitude of Guam, and our Courſe then lying along that parallel, our Northing and Southing conſequently were but little, accord⯑ing as the Ship deviated from its direct Courſe; and ſuch deviation is thenceforward expreſt by N. or S. in the 5th Column, and the Ships keeping ſtraight on the Weſt Rumb, by 0, that is to ſay, no North⯑ing or Southing. The 6th Column ſhews the lat. we were in every day, where R. ſignifies the dead Reckoning, by the running of the Logs, and Ob. ſhews the lat. by obſervation. The 7th Column ſhews the Wind and Weather.

To theſe I would have added an 8th Column, to ſhew the variation of the Needle; but as it was very ſmall in this Courſe, ſo neither did we make any ob⯑ſervation of it, above once, after we were ſet out from the Mexican Coaſt. At our departure from Cape Corrientes, we found it to be 4 d. 28 m. Eaſterly: and the obſervation we made of it afterwards, when we had gone about a third of the Voyage, [288] ſhewed it to be ſo near the ſame, to be decreaſing: Neither did we obſerve it at Guam, for Captain Swan who had the Inſtruments in his Cabbin, did not ſeem much to regard it: Yet I am inclined to think that at Guam, the Variation might be either none at all, or even increaſing to the Weſtward.

To conclude, May 20th at Noon (when we begin to call it 21ſt) we were in lat. 12 d. 50 m. N. by R. having run ſince the Noon before 134 Miles direct⯑ly Weſt. We continued the ſame Courſe till Two that Afternoon, for which I allow ten Miles more Weſt ſtill, and then, finding the parallel we ran up⯑on to be too much Southerly, we clapt on a Wind and ſailed directly North, till Five in the Afternoon, having in that time run 8 Miles, and increaſed our latitude ſo many Minutes, making it 12 d. 58 m. We then ſaw the Iſland Guam bearing N. N. E. di⯑ſtant from us about 8 leagues, which gives the latitude of the Iſland 13 d. 20 m. And according to the account foregoing, its longitude is 125 d. 11 m. Weſt from the Cape Corrientes on the Coaſt of Mexico, allowing 58 and 59 Italian Miles to a degree in theſe latitudes, at the common rate of 60 Miles to a degree of the Equator, as before computed.

As a Corollary from hence it will follow, that upon a ſuppoſal of the truth of the general al⯑lowance, Seamen make of 60 Italian Miles to an Equinoctial degree, that the South Sea muſt be of a greater breadth by 25 degrees, than it's commonly reckoned by Hydrographers, who make it only about 100, more or leſs. For ſince we found (as I ſhall have occaſion to ſay) the diſtance from Guam to the Eaſtern parts of Aſia, to be much the ſame with the common reckoning; it follows by way of neceſſary conſequence from hence, that the 25 degrees of longitude, or thereabouts, which are un⯑der-reckoned in the diſtance between America and the Eaſt-Indies Weſtward, are over-reckoned [289] in the breadth of Aſia and Africk, the Atlantick Sea, or the American Continent, or all together; and ſo that Tract of the Terraqueous Globe, muſt be ſo much ſhortned. And for a further confirmation of the fact, I ſhall add, that as to the Aethiopick or Indian Sea, its breadth muſt be conſiderably leſs than 'tis generally calculated to be; if it be true what I have heard over and over, from ſeveral able Seamen, whom I have converſed with in theſe parts, that Ships ſailing from the Cape of Good Hope to New Holland, (as many Ships bound to Java, or thereabouts, keep that latitude) find themſelves there, (and ſometimes to their coſt) running aground when they have thought themſelves to be a great way off; and 'tis from hence poſſibly, that the Dutch call that part of this Coaſt the Land of Indraught, (as if it magnetically drew Ships too faſt to it) and give cautions to avoid it: But I rather think, 'tis the nearneſs of the Land, than any Whirlpool, or the like, that ſurprizes them. As to the breadth of the Atlantick Sea, I am from good hands aſſured, that it is over-reckoned by ſix, ſeven, eight, or ten de⯑grees; for beſides the concurrent Accounts of ſeve⯑ral experienced Men, who have confirmed the ſame to me: Mr. Canby particularly, who hath ſailed as a Mate in a great many Voyages, from Cape Lopez, on the Coaſt of Guinea, to Barbadoes, and is much eſteem'd as a very ſenſible Man, hath often told me, that he conſtantly found the diſtance to be between 60 and 62 degrees; whereas 'tis laid down in 68, 69, 70, and 72 degrees, in the common draughts.

As to the ſuppoſition it ſelf, which our Seamen make, in the allowing but 60 Miles to a Degree, I am not ignorant how much this hath been canvaſed of late Years eſpecially, and that the prevailing opi⯑nion hath been that about 70, or upwards, ſhould be allowed. But till I can ſee ſome better grounds [290] for the exactneſs of thoſe trials, that have been made on Land by Mr. Norwood and others, con⯑ſidering the inequality of the Earths ſurface, as well as the obliquity of the way; in their allow⯑ing for which, I am ſomewhat doubtful of their meaſures. Upon the whole matter, I cannot but adhere to the general Sea-calculation, confirmed as to the main by daily experience, till ſome more certain eſtimate ſhall be made, than thoſe hither⯑to attempted. For we find our ſelves, when we ſail North or South, to be brought to our intended place, in a time agreeable enough with what we expect upon the uſual ſuppoſition, making all rea⯑ſonable allowance, for the little unavoidable devi⯑ations Eaſt or Weſt: and there ſeems no reaſon why the ſame eſtimate ſhould not ſerve us in croſ⯑ſing the Meridians, which we find ſo true in Sailing under them. As to this courſe of ours to Guam particularly, we ſhould rather increaſe than ſhorten our eſtimate of the length of it, conſidering that the Eaſterly Wind and Current being ſo ſtrong, and bearing therefore our Log after us, as is uſual in ſuch caſes; ſhould we therefore, in caſting up the run of the Log, make allowance for ſo much ſpace as the Log it ſelf drove after us (which is common⯑ly 3 or 4 Miles in 100, in ſo brisk a gale as this was) we muſt have reckoned more than 125 degrees; but in this Voyage we made no ſuch allowance: (though it be uſual to do it) ſo that how much ſo⯑ever this computation of mine exceeds the common Draughts, yet is it of the ſhorteſt, according to our experiment and calculation.

But to proceed with our Voyage: The Iſland Guam or Guahon, (as the Native Indians pronounce it) is one of the Ladrone Iſlands, belongs to the Spaniards, who have a ſmall Fort with ſix Guns in it, with a Governour, and 20 or 30 Soldiers. They keep it for the relief and refreſhment of their Phi⯑lippine [291] Ships, that touch here in their way from Acapulco to Manila, but the Winds will not ſo eaſily let them take this way back again. The Spaniards of late have named Guam, the Iſland Maria, it is about 12 leagues long, and 4 broad, lying N. and S. It is pretty high Champain Land.

The 21ſt day of May, 1686. at 11 a Clock in the Evening, we anchored near the middle of the Iſland Guam, on the Weſt ſide; a Mile from the ſhore. At a diſtance it appears flat and even, but coming near it you will find it ſtands ſhelving, and the Eaſt ſide, which is much the higheſt, is fenced with ſteep Rocks, that oppoſe the Violence of the Sea, which continually rage againſt it, being driven with the conſtant Trade-wind, and on that ſide there is no Anchoring. The Weſt ſide is pretty low, and full of ſmall ſandy Bays, divided with as many rocky Points. The Soil of the Iſland is reddiſh, dry and indifferent fruitful. The Fruits are chiefly Rice, Pine-Apples, Water-melons, Musk-melons, Oranges and Limes, Coco-nuts, and a ſort of Fruit called by us Bread-fruit.

The Coco-nut Trees grow by the Sea, on the Weſtern ſide in great Groves, 3 or 4 Miles in length, and a Mile or two broad. This Tree is in ſhape like the Cabbage-tree, and at a diſtance they are not to be known each from other, only the Coco-nut Tree is fuller of Branches; but the Cabbage-tree generally is much higher, tho' the Coco-nut Trees in ſome places are very high.

The Nut or Fruit grows at the head of the Tree, among the Branches and in Cluſters, 10 or 12 in a Cluſter. The Branch to which they grow is about the bigneſs of a Man's Arm, and as long, running ſmall towards the end. It is of a yellow Colour, full of Knots, and very tough. The Nut is gene⯑rally bigger than a Man's Head. The outer Rind is near two Inches thick, before you come to the Shell; [292] the Shell it ſelf is black, thick, and very hard. The Kernel in ſome Nuts is near an Inch thick, ſticking to the inſide of the Shell clear round, leaving a hol⯑low in the middle of it, which contains about a Pint, more or leſs, according to the bigneſs of the Nut, for ſome are much bigger than others.

This Cavity is full of ſweet, delicate, wholſom and reſreſhing Water. While the Nut is growing, all the inſide is full of this Water, without any Kernel at all; but as the Nut grows towards its Maturity, the Kernel begins to gather and ſettle round on the inſide of the Shell, and is ſoft like Cream; and as the Nut ripens, it increaſeth in ſubſtance and becomes hard. The ripe Kernel is ſweet enough, but very hard to digeſt, therefore ſeldom eaten, unleſs by Strangers, who know not the effects of it; but while it is young and ſoft like Pap, ſome Men will eat it, ſcraping it out with a Spoon, after they have drunk the Water that was within it. I like the Water beſt when the Nut is almoſt ripe, for it is then ſweeteſt and briskeſt.

When theſe Nuts are ripe and gathered, the out⯑ſide Rind becomes of a brown ruſty colour; ſo that one would think that they were dead and dry; yet they will ſprout out like Onions, after they have been hanging in the Sun 3 or 4 Months, or thrown about in a Houſe or Ship, and if planted afterward in the Earth, they will grow up to a Tree. Before they thus ſprout out, there is a ſmall ſpungy round knob grows in the inſide, which we call an Apple. This at firſt is no bigger than the top of ones finger, but increaſeth daily, ſucking up the Water till it is grown ſo big as to fill up the Cavity of the Coco-nut, and then it be⯑gins to ſprout forth. By this time the Nut that was hard, begins to grow oily and ſoft, thereby giving paſſage to the Sprout that ſprings from the [293] Apple, which Nature hath ſo contrived, that it points to the hole in the Shell, (of which there are three, till it grows ripe, juſt where it's faſtned by its Stalk to the Tree; but one of theſe holes remains open, even when it is ripe) through which it creeps and ſpreads forth its Branches. You may let theſe teem⯑ing Nuts ſprout out a foot and half, or two foot high before you plant them, for they will grow a great while like an Onion out of their own Sub⯑ſtance.

Beſide the Liquor or Water in the Fruit, there is alſo a ſort of Wine drawn from the Tree called Toddy, which looks like Whey. It is ſweet and very pleaſant, but it is to be drunk within 24 hours after it is drawn, for afterwards it grows ſowre. Thoſe that have a great many Trees, draw a Spirit from the ſowre Wine, called Arack. Arack is di⯑ſtill'd alſo from Rice, and other things in the Eaſt Indies; but none is ſo much eſteemed for ma⯑king Punch as this ſort, made of Toddy, or the ſap of the Coco-nut Tree, for it makes moſt deli⯑cate Punch; but it muſt have a daſh of Brandy to hearten it, becauſe this Arack is not ſtrong enough to make good Punch of it ſelf. This ſort of Li⯑quor is chiefly uſed about Goa; and therefore it has the Name of Goa Arack. The way of drawing the Toddy from the Tree, is by cutting the top of a Branch that would bear Nuts; but before it has any Fruit; and from thence the Liquor which was to feed its Fruit, diſtils into the hole of a Cal⯑labaſh that is hung upon it.

This Branch continues running almoſt as long as the Fruit would have been growing, and then it dries away. The Tree hath uſually three fruitful Branches, which if they be all tapp'd thus, then the Tree bears no Fruit that Year; but if one or two only be tapp'd, the other will bear Fruit all the while. The Liquor which is thus drawn is emptied out of the [294] Callabaſh duly Morning and Evening, ſo long as it continues running, and is ſold every Morning and Evening in moſt Towns in the Eaſt Indies, and great gains are produced from it even this way; but thoſe that diſtil it and make Arack, reap the greateſt profit. There is alſo great profit made of the Fruit, both of the Nut and the Shell.

The Kernel is much uſed in making Broath. When the Nut is dry, they take off the Husk, and giving two good Blows on the middle of the Nut, it breaks in two equal parts, letting the Water fall on the Ground; then with a ſmall Iron Raſp made for the purpoſe, the Kernel or Nut is raſped out clean, which being put into a little freſh Water, makes it become white as Milk. In this milky Water they boil a Fowl, or any other ſort of Fleſh, and it makes very ſavory Broath. Engliſh Seamen put this Water into boiled Rice, which they eat inſtead of Rice⯑milk, carrying Nuts purpoſely to Sea with them. This they learn from the Natives.

But the greateſt uſe of the Kernel is to make Oyl, both for burning and for frying. The way to make the Oyl is to grate or raſp the Kernel, and ſteep it in freſh Water; then boil it, and ſcum off the Oyl at top as it riſes: But the Nuts that make the Oyl ought to be a long time gathered, ſo as that the Ker⯑nel may be turning ſoft and oily.

The Shell of this Nut is uſed in the Eaſt Indies for Cups, Diſhes, Ladles, Spoons, and in a manner for all eating and drinking Veſſels. Well ſhaped Nuts are often brought home to Europe, and much eſteem⯑ed. The Husk of the Shell is of great uſe to make Cables; for the dry Husk is full of ſmall Strings and Threads, which being beaten, become ſoft, and the other Subſtance which was mixt among it falls a⯑way like Saw-duſt, leaving only the Strings. Theſe are afterwards ſpun into long Yarns, and twiſted up into Balls for Convenience: and many of theſe [295] Rope-Yarns joined together make good Cables. This Manufactory is chiefly uſed at the Maldive-Iſlands, and the Threads ſent in Balls into all places that Trade thither, purpoſely for to make Cables. I made a Cable at Achin with ſome of it. Theſe are called Coire Cables; they will laſt very well. But there is another ſort of Coire Cables (as they are called) that are black, and more ſtrong and laſting; and are made of Strings that grow, like Horſe-hair, at the heads of certain Trees, almoſt like the Coco⯑nut Tree. This ſort comes moſt from the Iſland Ti⯑mor. In the South Seas the Spaniards do make Oa⯑kam to chalk their Ships, with the Husk of the Coco-nut, which is more ſerviceable than that made of Hemp, and they ſay it will never rot. I have been told by Captain Knox, who wrote the Relation of Cey⯑lon, that in ſome places of India they make a ſort of courſe Cloth of the Husk of the Coco-nut, which is uſed for Sails. I my ſelf have ſeen a ſort of courſe Sail-cloth made of ſuch a kind of ſubſtance; but whether the ſame or no I know not.

I have been the longer on this ſubject, to give the Reader a particular Account of the uſe and profit of a Vegetable, which is poſſibly of all others the moſt generally ſerviceable to the conveniencies, as well as the neceſſities of humane Life. Yet this Tree, that is of ſuch great uſe, and eſteemed ſo much in the Eaſt Indies, is ſcarce regarded in the Weſt Indies, for want of the knowledge of the bene⯑fit which it may produce. And 'tis partly for the ſake of my Country-men, in our American Planta⯑tions, that I have ſpoken ſo largely of it. For the hot Climates there are a very proper ſoil for it: and indeed it is ſo hardy, both in the raiſing it, and when grown, that it will thrive as well in dry ſan⯑dy ground as in rich land. I have found them grow⯑ing very well in low ſandy Iſlands (on the Weſt of Sumatra) that are over-flowed with the Sea every [296] Spring-tide; and though the Nuts there are not very big, yet this is no loſs, for the Kernel is thick and ſweet; and the Milk, or Water in the inſide, is more pleaſant and ſweet than of the Nuts that grow in rich ground, which are commonly large indeed, but not very ſweet. Theſe at Guam grow in dry ground, are of a middle ſize, and I think the ſweeteſt that I did ever taſte. Thus much for the Coco-nut.

The Lime is a ſort of baſtard or Crab Limon. The Tree, or Buſh that bears it, is prickly, like a Thorn, growing full of ſmall boughs. In Jamaica, and other places, they make of the Lime Buſh Fences about Gardens, or any other Incloſure, by planting the ſeeds cloſe together, which growing up thick, ſpread abroad, and make a very good Hedge. The Fruit is like a Limon, but a ſmaller; the rind thin, and the incloſed ſubſtance full of Juice. The Juice is very tart, yet of a pleaſant taſte ſweetned with Sugar. It is chiefly uſed for making Punch, both in the Eaſt and Weſt Indies, as well aſhoar as at Sea, and much of it is for that pur⯑poſe yearly brought home to England, from out Weſt India Plantations. It is alſo uſed for a particu⯑lar kind of Sauce, which is called Pepper-Sauce, and is made of Cod-pepper, commonly call'd Guinea-pepper, boiled in Water, and then pickled with Salt, and mix'd with Lime-juice to preſerve it. Limes grow plentiful in the Eaſt and Weſt Indies, within the Tropicks.

The Bread-fruit (as we call it) grows on a large Tree, as big and high as our largeſt Apple-Trees. It hath a ſpreading Head full of Branches, and dark Leaves. The Fruit grows on the Boughs like Ap⯑ples; it is as big as a Penny-loaf, when Wheat is at five Shillings the Buſhel. It is of a round ſhape, and hath a thick t [...]ugh rind. When the Fruit is ripe, it is yellow and ſoft; and the taſte is ſweet [297] and pleaſant. The Natives of this Iſland uſe it for Bread: they gather it when full grown, while it is green and hard; then they bake it in an Oven, which ſcorcheth the rind and makes it black: but they ſcrape off the outſide black cruſt, and there remains a tender thin cruſt, and the inſide is ſoft, tender and white, like the crumb of a Penny Loaf. There is neither Seed nor Stone in the inſide, but all is of a pure ſubſtance like Bread: it muſt be eaten new, for if it is kept above 24 hours, it be⯑comes dry, and eats harſh and choaky; but 'tis ve⯑ry pleaſant before it is too ſtale. This Fruit laſts in ſeaſon 8 Months in the Year; during which time the Natives eat no other ſort of food of Bread-kind. I did never ſee of this Fruit any where but here. The Natives told us, that there is plenty of this Fruit growing on the reſt of the Ladrone Iſlands; and I did never hear of any of it any where elſe.

They have here ſome Rice alſo: but the Iſland being of a dry Soil, and therefore not very proper for it, they do not ſow very much. Fiſh is ſcarce about this Iſland; yet on the ſhole that our Bark came over there was great plenty, and the Natives commonly go thither to fiſh.

The Natives of this Iſland are ſtrong bodied, large limb'd, and well-ſhap'd. They are Copper-coloured, like other Indians: their Hair is black and long, their Eyes meanly proportioned; they have pretty high Noſes; their Lips are pretty full, and their Teeth indifferent white. They are long viſaged, and ſtern of Countenance; yet we found them to be affable and Courteous. They are many of them troubled with a kind of a Leproſie. This diſtemper is very common at Mindanao: therefore I ſhall-ſpeak more of it in my next Chapter. They of Guam are otherwiſe very healthy, eſpecially in the dry ſeaſon: but in the wet ſeaſon, which comes in in June, and holds till October, the Air is more [298] thick and unwholſome; which occaſions Fevers: but the Rains are not violent nor laſting. For the Iſland lies ſo far Weſterly from the Philippine Iſlands, or any other Land, that the Weſterly Winds do ſel⯑dom blow ſo far; and when they do, they do not laſt long: but the Eaſterly Winds do conſtantly blow here, which are dry and healthy; and this Iſland is found to be very healthful, as we were informed while we lay by it. The Natives are ve⯑ry ingenious beyond any People, in making Boats, or Proes, as they are called in the Eaſt Indies, and therein they take great delight. Theſe are built ſharp at both ends; the bottom is of one piece, made like the bottom of a little Canoa, very neatly dug, and left of a good ſubſtance. This bottom part is inſtead of a Keel. It is about 26 or 28 foot long; the under part of this Keel is made round, but inclining to a wedge, and ſmooth; and the upper part is almoſt flat, having a very gentle hollow, and is about a foot broad: From hence both ſides of the Boat are carried up to about 5 foot high with nar⯑row Plank, not above 4 or 5 inches broad, and each end of the Boat turns up round, very pretti⯑ly. But what is very ſingular, one ſide of the Boat is made perpendicular, like a Wall, while the o⯑ther ſide is rounding, made as other Veſſels are, with a pretty full belly. Juſt in the middle it is about 4 or 5 foot broad aloft, or more, according to the length of the Boat. The Maſt ſtands exactly in the middle, with a long Yard that [...] up and down like a Mizen-yard. One end of it reacheth down to the end or head of the Boat, where it is placed in a notch, that is made there purpoſely to receive it, and keep it faſt. The other end hangs over the Stern: To this Yard the Sail is faſtened. At the foot of the Sail there is another ſmall Yard, to keep the Sail out ſquare, and to roll up the Sail on when it blows hard; for it ſerves inſtead of a [299] Reef to take up the Sail to what degree they pleaſe, according to the ſtrength of the Wind. Along the Belly-ſide of the Boat, parallel with it, at about 6 or 7 foot diſtance, lies another ſmall Boat, or Ca⯑noa, being a Log of very light Wood, almoſt as long as the great Boat, but not ſo wide, being not above a foot and an half wide at the upper part, and very ſharp like a Wedge at each end. And there are two Bamboas of about 8 or 10 foot long, and as big as ones Leg, placed over the great Boats ſide, one near each end of it, and reaching about 6 or 7 foot from the ſide of the Boat: By the help of which, the little Boat is made firm and conti⯑guous to the other. Theſe are generally called by the Dutch, and by the Engliſh from them, Out⯑layers. The uſe of them is to keep the great Boat upright from over-ſetting; becauſe the Wind here being in a manner conſtantly Eaſt, (or if it were at Weſt it would be the ſame thing) and the Range of theſe Iſlands, where their buſineſs lies to and fro, being moſtly North and South, they turn the flat ſide of the Boat againſt the Wind, upon which they ſail, and the Belly-ſide, conſequently, with its little Boat, is upon the Lee: And the Veſſel having a Head at each end, ſo as to ſail with either of them foremoſt (indifferently) they need not tack, or go about, as all our Veſſels do, but each end of the Boat ſerves either for Head or Stern as they pleaſe. When they ply to Windward, and are minded to go about, he that Steers bears away a little from the Wind, by which means the Stern comes to the Wind; which is now become the Head, only by ſhifting the end of the Yard. This Boat is ſteered with a broad Paddle, inſtead of a Rudder. I have been the more particular in deſcribing theſe Boats, becauſe I do believe, they Sail the beſt of any Boats in the World. I did here for my own ſatiſ⯑faction, try the ſwiſtneſs of one of them; ſailing [300] by our Log, we had 12 Knots on our Reel, and ſhe run it all out before the half Minute-Glaſs was half out; which, if it had been no more, is after the rate of 12 Mile an Hour; but I do believe ſhe would have run 24 Mile an Hour. It was very pleaſant to ſee the little Boat running a long ſo ſwift by the others ſide.

The Native Indians are no leſs dextrous in ma⯑naging, than in building theſe Boats. By report, they will go from hence to another of the Ladrone Iſlands about 30 Leagues off, and there do their Buſineſs, and return again in leſs than 12 Hours. I was told that one of theſe Boats was ſent Expreſs to Manila, which is above 400 Leagues, and performed the Voyage in 4 Days time. There are of theſe Proes or Boats uſed in many places of the Eaſt Indies, but with a Belly and a little Boat on each ſide. Only at Mindanao I ſaw one like theſe, with the Belly and a little Boat only on one ſide, and the other flat, but not ſo neatly built.

The Indians of Guam have neat little Houſes, very handſomly thatch'd with Palmeto-thatch. They in⯑habit together in Villages built by the Sea, on the Weſt-ſide, and have Spaniſh Prieſts to inſtruct them in the Chriſtian Religion.

The Spaniards have a ſmall Fort on the Weſt ſide, near the South end, with ſix Guns in it. There is a Governour, and 20 or 30 Spaniſh Soldiers. There are no more Spaniards on this Iſland, beſide 2 or 3 Prieſts. Not long before we arrived here, the Na⯑tives roſe on the Spaniards to deſtroy them, and did kill many: But the Governour with his Soldiers at length prevailed, and drove them out of the Fort: So when they found themſelves diſappoint⯑ed of their intent, they deſtroyed the Plantations and Stock, and then went away to other Iſlands: There were then 3 or 400 Indians on this Iſland; but now there are not above 100; for all that were [301] in this Conſpiracy went away. As for theſe who yet remain, if they were not actually concerned in that broil, yet their Hearts alſo are bent againſt the Spaniards: for they offered to carry us to the Fort, and aſſiſt us in the Conqueſt of the Iſland; but C. Swan was not for moleſting the Spaniards here.

Before we came to an Anchor here, one of the Prieſts came aboard in the Night, with 3 Indians. They firſt haled us to know from whence we came, and what we were: To whom anſwer was made in Spaniſh, that we were Spaniards, and that we came from Acapulco. It being dark they could not ſee the make of our Ship, nor very well diſcern what we were: Therefore we came aboard; but perceiving the miſtake they were in, in taking us for a Spaniſh Ship, they endeavoured to get from us again, but we held their Boat faſt, and made them [...]ome in. Capt. Swan received the Prieſt with much Civility, and conducting him into the Great Cabbin, declared, That the reaſon of our coming to this Iſland was want of Proviſon, and that he came not in any hoſtile manner, but as a Friend to purchaſe with his Mo⯑ney what he wanted: And therefore deſired the Prieſt to write a Letter to the Governour, to inform him what we were, and on what account we came. For having him now aboard, the Captain was willing to detain him as an Hoſtage, till we had Proviſion. The Padre told Captain Swan, that Proviſion was now ſcarce on the Iſland; but he would engage, that the Governour would do his utmoſt to furniſh us.

In the Morning the Indians, in whoſe Boat or Proe the Frier came aboard, were ſent to the Go⯑vernour with two Letters; one from the Frier, and another very obliging one from Captain Swan, and a Preſent of four Yards of Scarlet-cloath, and a piece of broad Silver and Gold Lace. The Governour lives near the South end of the Iſland on the Weſt [302] ſide; which was about 5 Leagues from the place where we were; therefore we did not expect an anſwer till the Evening, not knowing then how nimble they were. Therefore when the Indian Canoa was diſpatched away to the Governour, we hoiſed out 2 of our Canoas, and ſent one a fiſhing, and the other aſhore for Coco-nuts. Our fiſhing Canoa got nothing; but the Men that went aſhore for Coco-nuts came off laden.

About 11 a Clock, that ſame Morning, the Go⯑vernour of the Iſland ſent a Letter to Capt. Swan, complimenting him for his Preſent, and promiſing to ſupport us with as much Proviſion, as he could poſſibly ſpare; and as a Token of his Gratitude, he ſent a Preſent of 6 Hogs, of a ſmall ſort, moſt ex⯑cellent Meat, the beſt I think, that ever I eat: They are fed with Coco-nuts, and their Fleſh is hard as Brisket Beef. They were doubtleſs of that breed in America which came originally from Spain. He ſent alſo 12 Musk-melons, larger than ours in Eng⯑land, and as many Water-melons, both ſorts here being a very excellent Fruit; and ſent an order to the Indians that lived in a Village not far from our Ship, to bake every day as much of the Bread-fruit as we did deſire, and to aſſiſt us in getting as many dry Coco-nuts as we would have; which they ac⯑cordingly did, and brought off the Bread-Fruit eve⯑ry day hot, as much as we could eat. After this the Governour ſent every day a Canoa or two with Hogs and Fruit, and deſired for the ſame, Powder, Shot and Arms; which was ſent according to his Requeſt. We had a delicate large Engliſh Dog; which the Governour did deſire, and had it given him very freely by the Captain, though much a⯑gainſt the grain of many of his Men, who had a great value for that Dog. Captain Swan endea⯑voured to get this Governour's Letter of Recom⯑mendation to ſome Merchants at Manila, for he [303] had then a deſign to go to Fort St. George, and from thence intended to trade to Manila: but this his de⯑ſign was concealed from the company. While we lay here, the Acapulco Ship arrived in ſight of the Iſland, but did not come in the ſight of us; for the Governour ſent an Indian Proe, with advice of our being here. Therefore ſhe ſtood off to the South⯑ward of the Iſland, and coming foul of the ſame ſhole that our Bark had run over before, was in great danger of being loſt there, for ſhe ſtruck off her Rudder, and with much ado got clear; but not till after three days labour. For tho' the ſhole be ſo near the Iſland, and the Indians go off and fiſh there every day, yet the Maſter of the Acapulco Ship, who ſhould (one would think) know theſe Parts, was utterly ignorant of it. This their ſtriking on the ſhole we heard afterward, when we were on the Coaſt of Manila; but theſe Indians of Guam did ſpeak of her being in ſight of the Iſland while we lay there, which put our Men in a great heat to go out after her, but Captain Swan perſwaded them out of that humour, for he was now wholly averſe to any Hoſtile action.

The 30th day of May, the Governor ſent his laſt Preſent, which was ſome Hogs, a Jar of pickled Mangoes, a Jar of excellent pickled Fiſh, and a Jar of fine Rusk, or Bread of fine Wheat Flower, ba⯑ked like Bisket, but not ſo hard. He ſent beſides, 6 or 7 packs of Rice, deſiring to be excuſed from ſending any more Proviſion to us, ſaying he had no more on the Iſland that he could ſpare. He ſent word alſo, that the Weſt Monſoon was at hand, that therefore it behoved us to be jogging from hence, unleſs we were reſolved to return back to America again. Captain Swan returned him thanks for his kindneſs and advice, and took his leave; and the ſame day ſent the Frier aſhoar, that was ſeized on at our firſt arrival, and gave him a large [304] Braſs Clock, an Aſtrolable, and a large Teleſcope: for which Preſent the Frier ſent us aboard ſix Hogs, and a Roaſting Pig, 3 or 4 Buſhels of Potatoes, and 50 pound of Manila Tobacco. Then we prepared to be gone, being pretty well furniſhed with Proviſion to carry us to Mindanao, where we deſigned next to touch. We took aboard us as many Coco-nuts as we could well ſtow, and we had a good ſtock of Rice, and about 50 Hogs in Salt.

CHAP. XI.

WHile we lay at Guam, we took up a Reſo⯑lution of going to Mindanao, one of the Philippine Iſlands, being told by the Frier, and others, that it was exceedingly well ſtored with Proviſi⯑ons; that the Natives were Mahometans, and that they had formerly a Commerce with the Spaniards, but that now they were at Wars with them. This Iſland was therefore thought to be a convenient place for us to go to; for beſides that, it was in our [306] way to the Eaſt Indies, which we had reſolved to viſit; and that the Weſterly Monſoon was at hand, which would oblige us to ſhelter ſomewhere in a ſhort time, and that we could not expect good Harbours in a better place than in ſo large an Iſland as Mindanao: beſides all this, I ſay, the Inhabitants of Mindanao being then, as we were told, (tho' falſly) at Wars with the Spaniards, our Men, who it ſhould ſeem were very ſqueamiſh of plundering without Licence, derived hopes from thence of getting a Commiſſion there from the Prince of the Iſland, to plunder the Spaniſh Ships about Manila, and ſo to make Mindanao their common Rendezvous. And it Captain Swan was minded to go to an En⯑gliſh Port, yet his Men, who thought he intended to leave them, hoped to get Veſſels and Pilots at Mindanao fit for their turn, to cruize on the Coaſt of Manila. As for Captain Swan, he was willing enough to go thither, as beſt ſuiting his own de⯑ſign; and therefore this Voyage was concluded on by general conſent.

Accordingly June 2d, 1686. we left Guam, bound for Mindanao. We had fair Weather, and a pretty ſmart gale of Wind at Eaſt, for 3 or 4 Days, and then it ſhifted to the S. W. being Rainy, but it ſoon came about again to the Eaſt, and blew a gentle gale; yet it often ſhuffled about to the S. E. For though in the Eaſt Indies the Winds ſhift in April, yet we found this to be the ſhifting ſeaſon for the Winds here; the other ſhifting ſeaſon being in October, ſooner or later, all over India. As to our courſe from Guam to the Philippine Iſlands, we found it (as I intimated before) agreeable enough with the account of our common Draughts.

The 21ſt Day of June we arrived at the Iſland St. John, which is one of the Philippine Iſlands. The Philippines are a great company of large Iſlands, ta⯑king up about 13 deg. of Lat. in length, reaching [307] near upon, from 5 d. of North Lat. to the 19th de⯑gree, and in breadth about 6 deg. of Longitude. They derive this Name from Philip II. King of Spain; and even now they do moſt of them belong to that Crown.

The chiefeſt Iſland in this range is Luconia, which lies on the North of them all. At this Iſland Magellan died on the Voyage that he was making round the World. For after he had paſt thoſe Streights be⯑tween the South end of America and Terra del Fuego, which now bear his Name, and had ranged down in the South Seas on the back of America; from thence ſtretching over to the Eaſt-Indies, he fell in with the Ladrone Iſlands, and from thence ſteering Eaſt ſtill, he fell in with theſe Philippine Iſlands, and anchored at Luconia; where he warr'd with the Native Indians, to bring them in Obedience to his Maſter the King of Spain, and was by them kill'd with a Poy⯑ſoned Arrow. It is now wholly under the Spani⯑ards, who have ſeveral Towns there. The chief is Manilo, which is a large Sea-port Town near the S. E. end, oppoſite to the Iſland Mindora. It is a place of great Strength and Trade: The two great Acapulco Ships before mentioned fetching from hence all ſorts of Eaſt-India Commodities; which are brought hither by Foreigners, eſpecially by the Chineſe, and the Portugueſe. Sometimes the Engliſh Merchants of Fort St. George ſend their Ships hither as it were by ſtealth, under the charge of Portu⯑gueſe Pilots and Mariners: For as yet we cannot get the Spaniards there to a Commerce with us or the Dutch, although they have but few Ships of their own. This ſeems to ariſe from a Jealouſie or Fear of diſcovering the Riches of theſe Iſlands, for moſt, if not all the Philippine Iſlands, are rich in Gold: And the Spaniards have no place of much ſtrength in all theſe Iſlands that I could ever hear of, beſides Manilo it ſelf. Yet they have Villages [308] and Towns on ſeveral of the Iſlands, and Padres or Prieſts to inſtruct the Native Indians, from whom they get their Gold.

The Spaniſh Inhabitants, of the ſmaller Iſlands eſpecially, would willingly trade with us if the Go⯑vernment was not ſo ſevere againſt it: for they have no Goods but what are brought from Manilo at an extraordinary dear rate. I am of the Opini⯑on, That if any of our Nations would ſeek a Trade with them, they would not loſe their labour; for the Spaniards can and will Smuggle (as our Seamen call Trading by ſtealth) as well as any Nation that I know; and our Jamaicans are to their profit ſen⯑ſible enough of it. And I have been informed that Captain Goodlud of London, in a Voyage which he made from Mindanao to China, touch'd at ſome of theſe Iſlands, and was civilly treated by the Spa⯑niards, who bought ſome of his Commodities, giv⯑ing him a very good Price for the ſame.

There are about 12 or 14 more large Iſlands ly⯑ing to the Southward of Luconia; moſt of which as I ſaid before, are inhabited by the Spaniards. Be⯑ſides theſe there are an infinite number of ſmall Iſlands of no account, and even the great Iſlands, many of them, are without Names; or at leaſt ſo variouſly ſet down, that I find the ſame Iſlands named by divers Names.

The Iſland St. John and Mindanao are the Sou⯑thermoſt of all theſe Iſlands, and are the only Iſlands in all this Range that are not ſubject to the Spaniards.

St. John's Iſland is on the Eaſt-ſide of the Min⯑danao, and diſtant from it 3 or 4 Leagues. It is in lat. about 7 or 8 North. This Iſland is in length about 38 Leagues, ſtretching N. N. W. and S. S. E. and it is in breadth about 24 Leagues, in the middle of the Iſland. The Northermoſt end is broader, and the Southermoſt is narrower: This Iſland is of a [309] good heighth, and is full of many ſmall Hills. The Land at the South-Eaſt end (where I was aſhoar) is of a black fat Mould; and the whole Iſland ſeems to partake of the ſame fatneſs, by the vaſt number of large Trees that it produceth; for it looks all over like one great Grove.

As we were paſſing by the S. E. end we ſaw a Canoa of the Natives under the ſhoar; therefore one of our Canoas went after to have ſpoken with her; but ſhe run away from us, ſeeing themſelves chaced, put their Canoa aſhoar, leaving her, fled into the Woods; nor would be allured to come to us, altho' we did what we could to entice them; be⯑ſides theſe Men, we ſaw no more here, nor ſign of any Inhabitants at this end.

When we came aboard our Ship again, we ſteered away for the Iſland Mindanao, which was now fair in ſight of us: it being about 10 leagues diſtant from this part of St. John's. The 22d day we came within a league of the Eaſt-ſide of the Iſland Min⯑danao, and having the Wind at S. E. we ſteered toward the North-end, keeping on the Eaſt-ſide, till we came into the lat. of 7 d. 40 m. and there we anchored in a ſmall Bay, about a Mile from the Shoar, in 10 Fathom Water, Rocky foul ground.

Some of our Books gave us an account, That Mindanao City and Iſle lies in 7 d. 40 m. we gueſt that the middle of the Iſland might lie in this lat. but we were at a great loſs where to find the City, whether on the Eaſt or Weſt ſide. Indeed, had it been a ſmall Iſland, lying open to the Eaſtern Wind, we might probably have ſearched firſt on the Weſt-ſide; for commonly the Iſlands within the Tropicks, or within the bounds of the Trade-Winds, have their Harbours on the Weſt-ſide, as beſt ſheltered; but the Iſland Mindanao being guarded on the Eaſt-ſide by St. John's Iſland, we might as rea⯑ſonably expect to find the Harbour and City on [310] this ſide, as any where elſe: but coming into the Lat. in which we judg'd the City might be, found no Canoas, or People, that might give us any um⯑brage of a City, or place of Trade near at hand, tho' we coaſted within a League of the Shoar.

The Iſland Mindanao is the biggeſt of all the Phi⯑lippine Iſlands, except Luconia. It is about 60 Leagues long, and 40 or 50 broad. The South end is in about 5 d. N. and the N. W. end reacheth almoſt to 8 d. N. It is a very Mountainous Iſland, full of Hills and Valleys. The Mould in general is deep and black, and extraordinary fat and fruitful. The ſides of the Hills are ſtony, yet productive enough of very large tall Trees. In the heart of the Coun⯑try there are ſome Mountains that yield good Gold. The Valleys are well moiſtned with plea⯑ſant Brooks, and ſmall Rivers of delicate Water; and have Trees of divers ſorts flouriſhing and green all the Year. The Trees in general are very large, and moſt of them are of kinds unknown to us.

There is one ſort which deſerves particular no⯑tice; called by the Natives Libby-Trees. Theſe grow wild in great Groves of 5 or 6 Miles long, by the ſides of the Rivers. Of theſe Trees Sago is made, which the poor Country People eat inſtead of Bread 3 or 4 Months in the Year. This Tree for its body and ſhape is much like the Palmeto-Tree, or the Cabbage-Tree, but not ſo tall as the latter. The Bark and Wood is hard and thin like a Shell, and full of white Pith, like the Pith of an Elder. This Tree they cut down, and ſplit it in the mid⯑dle, and ſcrape out all the Pith; which they beat Iuſtily with a Wooden Peſtle in a great Mortar or Trough, and then put it into a Cloth or Strainer held over a Trough; and pouring Water in among the Pith, they ſtir it about in the Cloth: So the Water carries all the ſubſtance of the Pith through the Cloth down into the Trough, leaving nothing in [311] the Cloth but a light ſort of Husk, which they throw away; but that which falls into the Trough ſettles in a ſhort time to the bottom like Mud; and then they draw off the Water, and take up the muddy ſubſtance, wherewith they make Cakes; which being baked proves very good Bread.

The Mindanao People live 3 or 4 Months of the Year on this Food for their Bread kind. The Na⯑tive Indians of Teranate, and Tidore, and all the Spice Iſlands, have plenty of theſe Trees, and uſe them for Food in the ſame manner; as I have been in⯑form'd by Mr. Caril Rofy, who is now Commander of one of the King's Ships. He was one of our Company at this time; and being left with Captain Swan at Mindanao, went afterwards to Teranate, and lived there among the Dutch a Year or two. The Sago which is tranſported into other parts of the Eaſt Indies, is dried in ſmall pieces like little Seeds or Comfits, and commonly eaten with Milk of Almonds, by thoſe that are troubled with the Flux; for it is a great binder, and very good in that Diſtemper.

In ſome places of Mindanao there is plenty of Rice; but in the hilly Land they plant Yams, Po⯑tatoes, and Pumkins; all which thrive very well. The other Fruits of this Iſland are Water-Melons, Musk-Melons, Plaintains, Bonanoes, Guavas, Nut⯑megs, Cloves, Betel-Nuts, Durians, Jacks, or Jacas, Coco-Nuts, Oranges, &c.

The Plantain I take to be the King of all Fruit, not except the Coco it ſelf. The Tree that bears this Fruit is about 3 Foot, or 3 Foot and an half round, and about 10 or 12 Foot high. Theſe Trees are not raiſed from Seed, (for they ſeem not to have any) but from the Roots of other old Trees. If theſe young ſuckers are taken out of the Ground, and planted in another place, it will be 15 Months be⯑fore they bear, but if let ſtand in their own native [312] Soil they will bear in 12 Months. As ſoon as the Fruit is ripe the Tree decays, but then there are many young ones growing up to ſupply its place. When this Tree firſt ſprings out of the Ground, it comes up with two Leaves; and by that time it is a Foot high, two more ſprings up in the inſide of them; and in a ſhort time after two more within them; and ſo on. By that time the Tree is a Month old, you may perceive a ſmall body almoſt as big as ones Arm, and then there are eight or ten Leaves, ſome of them four or five Foot high. The firſt Leaves that it ſhoots forth are not above a Foot long, and half a Foot broad; and the Stem that bears them no big⯑ger than ones Finger; but as the Tree grows higher the Leaves are larger. As the young Leaves ſpring up up in the inſide, ſo the old Leaves ſpread off, and their tops droop downward, being of a greater length and breadth, by how much they are nearer the Root, and at laſt decay and rot off: but ſtill there are young Leaves ſpring up out of the top, which makes the Tree look always green and flouriſhing. When the Tree is full grown, the Leaves are 7 or 8 Foot long, and a Foot and half broad; towards the end they are ſmaller, and end with a round point. The Stem of the Leaf is as big as a Man's Arm, almoſt round, and about a Foot in length, between the Leaf and the Body of the Tree. That part of the Stem which comes from the Tree, if it be the outſide Leaf, ſeems to incloſe half the Body, as it were with a thick Hide; and right againſt it, on the other ſide of the Tree, is another ſuch anſwering to it. The next two Leaves, in the inſide of theſe, grow oppoſite to each other, in the ſame manner, but ſo that if the two outward grow North and South, theſe grow Eaſt and Weſt, and thoſe ſtill within them keep the ſame order. Thus the Body of this Tree ſeems to be made up of many thick Skins, growing one over another, and when it is full grown, there [313] ſprings out of the top a ſtrong Stem, harder in ſub⯑ſtance than any other part of the Body. This Stem ſhoots forth at the Heart of the Tree, is as big as a Man's Arm, and as long; and the Fruit grows in cluſters round it, firſt bloſſoming, and then ſhooting forth the Fruit. It is ſo excellent, that the Spaniards give it the preheminence of all other Fruit, as moſt conducing to Life. It grows in a Cod about 6 or 7 Inches long, and as big as a Man's Arm. The Shell, Rind or Cod, is ſoft, and of a yellow colour when ripe. It reſembles in ſhape a Hogs-gut Pudding. The incloſed Fruit is no harder than Butter in Winter, and is much of the colour of the pureſt yellow But⯑ter. It is of a delicate taſte, and melts in ones Mouth like Marmalet. It is all pure Pulp, without any Seed, Kernel or Stone. This Fruit is ſo much eſteemed by all Europeans that ſettle in America, that when they make a new Plantation, they commonly begin with a good Plantain-walk, as they call it, or a Field of Plantains; and as their Family encreaſeth, ſo they augment the Plantain-walk, keeping one Man pur⯑poſely to prune the Trees, and gather the Fruit as he ſees convenient. For the Trees continue bearing, ſome or other, moſt part of the Year; and this is many times the whole Food on which a whole Family ſubſiſts. They thrive only in rich fat ground, for poor ſandy will nor bear them. The Spaniards in their Towns in America, as at Havana, Cartagena, Portabel, &c. have their Markets full of Plantains, it being the common Food for poor People: Their common price is half a Riol, or 3 d. a Dozen. When this Fruit is only uſed for Bread, it is roaſted or boil'd when it's juſt full grown, but not yet ripe, or turn'd yellow. Poor People, or Negroes, that have neither Fiſh nor Fleſh to eat with it, make Sauce with Cod-pepper, Salt and Lime-juice, which makes it eat very ſavory; much better than a cruſt of Bread alone. Sometimes for [314] a change they eat a roaſted Plantain, and a ripe raw Plantain together, which is inſtead of Bread and Butter. They eat very pleaſant ſo, and I have made many a good meal in this manner. Some⯑times our Engliſh take 5 or 7 ripe Plantains, and maſhing them together, make them into a lump, and boil them inſtead of a Bag-pudding; which they call a Buff-Jacket: and this is a very good way for a change. This Fruit makes alſo very good Tarts; and the green Plantains ſlic'd thin, and dried in the Sun, and grated, will make a ſort of Flour which is very good to make Puddings. A ripe Plantain ſlic'd and dried in the Sun may be preſerved a great while; and then eats like Figs, very ſweet and pleaſant. The Darien Indians pre⯑ſerve them a long time, by drying them gently over the Fire; maſhing them firſt, and moulding them into lumps The Moskito Indians will take a ripe Plantain and roaſt it; then take a pint and half of Water in a Calabaſh, and ſqueeze the Plantain in pieces with their Hands, mixing it with the Water; then they drink it all off together: This they call Miſhlaw, and it's pleaſant and ſweet, and nou⯑riſhing; ſomewhat like Lambs-wool (as 'tis call'd) made with Apples and Ale: and of this Fruit alone many thouſands of Indian Families in the Weſt-Indies have their whole ſubſiſtence. When they make Drink with them, they take 10 or 12 ripe Plantains and maſh them well in a Trough: then they put 2 Gallons of Water among them; and this in 2 Hours time will ferment and froth like Wort. In 4 Hours it is fit to Drink, and then they Bottle it, and Drink it as they have occaſion: but this will not keep above 24 or 30 Hours. Thoſe therefore that uſe this Drink, Brew it in this manner every Morning. When I went firſt to Jamaica I could reliſh no other Drink they had there. It drinks brisk and cool, and is very pleaſant. This Drink is windy, and ſo is the Fruit eaten raw; but [315] boil'd or roaſted it is not ſo. If this Drink is kept above 30 Hours it grows ſharp: but if then it be put out into the Sun, it will become very good Vine⯑gar. This Fruit grows all over the Weſt-Indies (in the proper Climates) at Guinea, and in the Eaſt-Indies.

As the Fruit of this Tree is of great uſe for Food, ſo is the Body no leſs ſerviceable to make Cloaths; but this I never knew till I came to this Iſland. The ordinary People of Mindanao do wear no other Cloth. The Tree never bearing but once, and ſo being fell'd when the Fruit is ripe, they cut it down cloſe by the Ground, if they intend to make Cloth with it. One blow with a Hachet, or long Knife, will ſtrike it aſunder; then they cut off the top, leaving the trunk 8 or 10 foot long, ſtripping off the outer Rind, which is thickeſt towards the lower end, having ſtript 2 or 3 of theſe Rinds, the Trunk becomes in a manner all of one bigneſs, and of a whitiſh colour: Then they ſplit the Trunk in the middle; which being done, they ſplit the two halves again, as near the middle as they can. This they leave in the Sun 2 or 3 Days, in which time part of the juicy ſubſtance of the Tree dries away, and then the ends will appear full of ſmall Threads. The Women, whoſe employment it is to make the Cloth, take hold of thoſe Threads one by one, which rend away eaſily from one end of the Trunk to the other, in bigneſs like whited brown-thread; for the threads are naturally of a determi⯑nate bigneſs, as I obſerved their Cloth to be all of one ſubſtance and equal fineneſs; but 'tis ſtubborn when new, wears out ſoon, and when wet, feels a little ſlimy. They make their pieces 7 or 8 Yards long, their Warp and Woof all one thickneſs and ſubſtance.

There is another ſort of Plantains in that Iſland, which are ſhorter and leſs than the others, which I never ſaw any where but here. Theſe are full [316] of black Seeds mixt quite through the Fruit. They are binding, and are much eaten by thoſe that have Fluxes. The Country People gave them us for that uſe, and with good ſucceſs.

The Bonano Tree is exactly like the Plantain for ſhape and bigneſs, nor eaſily diſtinguiſhable from it but by its Fruit, which is a great deal ſmaller, and not above half ſo long as a Plantain, being alſo more mellow and ſoft, leſs luſcious, yet of a more delicate taſte. They uſe this for the making Drink oftner than Plantains, and it is beſt when uſed for Drink, or eaten as Fruit; but it is not ſo good for Bread, nor doth it eat well at all when roaſted or boil'd; ſo 'tis only neceſſity that makes any uſe it this way. They grow generally where Plantains do, being ſet intermixt with them purpoſely in their Plantain-walks. They have plenty of Clove-bark, of which I ſaw a Ship load; and as for Cloves, Raja Laut, whom I ſhall have occaſion to mention, told me, that if the Engliſh would ſettle there, they could order Matters ſo in a little time, as to ſend a Ship-load of Cloves from thence every Year. I have been informed that they grow on the Boughs of a Tree about as big as a Plumb-tree, but I ne⯑ver happened to ſee any of them.

I have not ſeen the Nutmeg-trees any where; but the Nutmegs this Iſland produces are ſair and large, yet they have no great ſtore of them, being unwil⯑ling to propagate them or the Cloves, for fear that ſhould invite the Dutch to viſit them, and bring them into ſubjection, as they have done the reſt of the neighbouring Iſlands where they grow. For the Dutch being ſeated among the Spice-Iſlands, have monopolized all the Trade into their own Hands, and will not ſuffer any of the Natives to diſpoſe of it, but to themſelves alone. Nay, they are ſo careful to preſerve it in their own Hands, that they will not ſuffer the Spice to grow in the [317] uninhabited Iſlands, but ſend Soldiers to cut the Trees down. Captain Rofy told me, that while he lived with the Dutch, he was ſent with other Men to cut down the Spice-Trees; and that he himſelf did at ſeveral times cut down 7 or 800 Trees. Yet altho' the Dutch take ſuch care to deſtroy them, there are many uninhabited Iſlands that have great plenty of Spice-Trees, as I have been informed by Dutch Men that have been there, particularly by a Cap⯑tain of a Dutch Ship that I met with at Achin, who told me, that near the Iſland Banda there is an Iſland where the Cloves falling from the Trees do lie and rot on the ground, and they are at the time when the Fruit falls, 3 or 4 Inches thick under the Trees. He and ſome others told me, that it would not be a hard matter for an Engliſh Veſſel to pur⯑chaſe a Ships Cargo of Spice, of the Natives of ſome of theſe Spice-Iſlands.

He was a free Merchant that told me this. For by that name the Dutch and Engliſh in the Eaſt-In⯑dies, diſtinguiſh thoſe Merchants who are not Ser⯑vants to the Company. The free Merchants are not ſuffered to Trade to the Spice-Iſlands, nor to many other places where the Dutch have Factories; but on the other Hand, they are ſuffered to Trade to ſome places where the Dutch Company them⯑ſelves may not Trade, as to Achin particularly, for there are ſome Princes in the Indies, who will not Trade with the Company for fear of them. The Seamen that go to the Spice-Iſlands are obliged to bring no Spice from thence for themſelves, except a ſmall matter for their own uſe, about a pound or two. Yet the Maſters of thoſe Ships do common⯑ly ſo order their buſineſs, that they often ſecure a good quantity, and ſend it aſhoar to ſome place near Batavia, before they come into that Harbour, (for it is always brought thither firſt before it's ſent to Europe,) and if they meet any Veſſel at Sea that [318] will buy their Cloves, they will ſell 10 or 15 Tuns out of 100, and yet ſeemingly carry their Comple⯑ment to Batavia; for they will pour Water among the remaining part of their Cargo, which will ſwell them to that degree, that the Ships Hold will be as full again, as it was before any were ſold. This Trick they uſe whenever they diſpoſe of any clan⯑deſtinely, for the Cloves when they firſt take them in are extraordinary dry; and ſo will imbibe a great deal of Moiſture. This is but one Inſtance, of many hundreds, of little deceitful Arts the Dutch Sea-Men have in theſe Parts among them, of which I have both ſeen and heard ſeveral. I believe there are no where greater Thieves; and nothing will perſuade them to diſcover one another; for ſhould any do it, the reſt would certainly knock him on the Head. But to return to the Products of Min⯑danao.

The Betel-Nut is much eſteemed here, as it is in moſt places of the Eaſt Indies. The Betel-Tree grows like the Cabbage-Tree, but it is not ſo big, nor ſo high. The Body grows ſtrait, about 12 or 14 foot high, without Leaf or Branch, except at the Head. There it ſpreads forth long Bran⯑ches, like other Trees of the like nature, as the Cabbage-Tree, the Coco-Nut Tree, and the Palm. Theſe Branches are about 10 or 12 foot long, and their ſtems near the head of the Tree, as big as a Man's Arm. On the top of the Tree among the Branches the Betel-Nut grows on a tough ſtem, as big as a Man's Finger, in cluſters much as the Coco-Nuts do, and they grow 40 or 50 in a cluſter. This Fruit is bigger than a Nutmeg, and is much like it, but rounder. It is much uſed all over the Eaſt-Indies. Their way is to cut it in four pieces, and wrap one of them up in an Arek leaf, which they ſpread with a ſoft Paſte made of Lime or Plaſter, and then chew it altogether. [319] Every Man in theſe parts carries his Lime-Box by his ſide, and dipping his Finger into it, ſpreads his Betel and Arek leaf with it. The Arek is a ſmall Tree or Shrub, of a green Bark, and the Leaf is long and broader than a Willow. They are packt up to ſell into Parts that have them not, to chew with the Betel. The Betel-Nut is moſt eſteem'd when it is young, and before it grows hard, and then they cut it only in two pieces with the green Husk or Shell on it. It is then exceeding juicy, and therefore makes them ſpit much. It taſtes rough in the Mouth, and dies the Lips red, and makes the Teeth black, but it preſerves them, and cleanſeth the Gums. It is alſo accounted very wholſom for the Stomach; but ſometimes it will cauſe great giddineſs in the Head of thoſe that are not us'd to chew it. But this is the effect only of the old Nut, for the young Nuts will not do it. I ſpeak of my own Experience.

This Iſland produceth alſo Durians and Jacks, The Trees that bear the Durians, are as big as Ap⯑ple Trees, full of Boughs. The Rind is thick and rough; the Fruit is ſo large that they grow only about the Bodies, or on the Limbs near the Body, like the Cacao. The Fruit is about the bigneſs of a large Pumkin, covered with a thick green rough Rind. When it is ripe, the Rind begins to turn yellow, but it is not fit to eat till it opens at the top. Then the Fruit in the inſide is ripe, and ſends forth an excellent Scent. When the Rind is opened, the Fruit may be ſplit into four quarters; each quarter hath ſeveral ſmall Cells, that incloſe a certain quantity of the Fruit, according to the bigneſs of the Cell, for ſome are larger than others. The largeſt of the Fruit may be as big as a Pullets Egg: 'Tis as white as Milk, and as ſoft as Cream, and the Taſte very delicious to thoſe that are ac⯑cuſtomed to them; but thoſe who have not been [320] uſed to eat them, will diſlike them at firſt, becauſe they ſmell like roaſted Onions. This Fruit muſt be eaten in its prime, (for there is no eating of it before it is ripe) and even then 'twill not keep a⯑bove a day or two before it putrifies, and turns black, or of a dark colour, and then it is not good. Within the Fruit there is a Stone as big as a ſmall Bean, which hath a thin Shell over it. Thoſe that are minded to eat the Stones or Nuts, roaſt them, and then a thin Shell comes off, which incloſes the Nut; and it eats like a Cheſnut.

The Jack or Jaca is much like the Durian, both in bigneſs and ſhape. The Trees that bear them alſo are much a like, and ſo is their manner of the Fruits growing. But the inſide is different; for the Fruit of the Durian is white, that of the Jack is yellow, and fuller of Stones. The Durian is moſt eſteemed; yet the Jack is very pleaſant Fruit, and the Stones or Kernels are good roaſted.

There are many other ſorts of Grain, Roots and Fruits in this Iſland, which to give a particular de⯑ſcription of would fill up a large Volume.

In this Iſland are alſo many ſorts of Beaſts, both wild and tame; as Horſes, Bulls, and Cows, Buf⯑faloes, Goats, Wild Hogs, Deer, Monkies, Gua⯑no's, Lizards, Snakes, &c. I never ſaw or heard of any Beaſts of Prey here, as in many other places. The Hogs are ugly Creatures; they have all great Knobs growing over their Eyes, and there are mul⯑titudes of them in the Woods. They are com⯑monly very poor, yet ſweet. Deer are here very plentiful in ſome places, where they are not di⯑ſturbed.

Of the venemous kind of Creatures here are Scor⯑pions, whoſe ſting is in their Tail; and Centapees, call'd by the Engliſh 40 Legs, both which are alſo com⯑mon in the Weſt-Indies, in Jamaica, and elſewhere. Theſe Centapees are 4 or 5 Inches long, as big as [321] a Gooſe-Quill, but flattiſh; of a Dun or reddiſh co⯑lour on the Back, but Belly whitiſh, and full of Legs on each ſide the Belly. Their Sting or bite is more raging than the Scorpion. They lie in old Houſes, and dry Timber. There are ſeveral ſorts of Snakes, ſome very Poiſonous. There is another ſort of Creature like a Guano both in colour and ſhape, but four times as big, whoſe Tongue is like a ſmall Harpoon, having two beards like the beards of a Fiſhook. They are ſaid to be very venemous, but I know not their Names. I have ſeen them in other places alſo, as at Pulo Condore, or the Iſland Condore, and at Achin, and have been told that they are in the Bay of Bengal.

The Fowls of this Country are Ducks and Hens: Other tame Fowl I have not ſeen nor heard of any. The wild Fowl are Pidgeons, Parrots, Parakits, Turtle Doves, and abundance of ſmall Fowls. There are Bats as big as a Kite.

There are a great many Harbours, Creeks, and good Bays for Ships to ride in; and Rivers navi⯑gable for Canoas, Proes or Barks, which are all plentifully ſtored with Fiſh of divers ſorts, ſo is al⯑ſo the adjacent Sea. The chiefeſt Fiſh are Bonetas, Snooks, Cavally's, Bremes, Mullets, 10 Pounders, &c. Here are alſo plenty of Sea Turtle, and ſmall Manatee, which are not near ſo big as thoſe in the Weſt-Indies. The biggeſt that I ſaw would not weigh above 600 Pound, but the fleſh both of the Turtle and Manatee are very ſweet.

The Weather at Mindanao is temperate enough as to heat, for all it lies ſo near the Equator, and eſpecially on the borders near the Sea. There they commonly enjoy the breezes by day, and cooling Land Winds at Night. The Winds are Eaſterly one part of the Year, and Weſterly the other. The Eaſterly Winds begin to blow in October, and it is the middle of November before they are ſettled.

[322] Theſe Winds bring fair Weather. The Weſterly Winds begin to blow in May, but are not ſettled till a Month afterwards. The Weſt Winds always bring Rain, Tornadoes, and very Tempeſtuous Weather. At the firſt coming in of theſe Winds they blow but faintly; but then the Tornadoes riſe one in a Day, ſometimes two. Theſe are Thunder-ſhowers which commonly come againſt the Wind, bringing with them a contrary Wind to what did blow before. After the Tornadoes are over, the Wind ſhifts about again, and the Sky be⯑comes clear, yet then in the Valleys and the ſides of the Mountains, there riſeth a thick fog, which covers the Land. The Tornadoes continue thus for a Week or more; then they come thicker, two or three in a Day, bringing violent guſts of Wind, and terrible claps of Thunder. At laſt they come ſo faſt, that the Wind remains in the quarter from whence theſe Tornadoes do riſe, which is out of the Weſt, and there it ſettles till October or Novem⯑ber. When theſe Weſtward Winds are thus ſettled, the Sky is all in mourning, being covered with black Clouds, pouring down exceſſive Rains ſome times mixt with Thunder and Lightning, that no⯑thing can be more diſmal. The Winds raging to that degree, that the biggeſt Trees are torn up by the Roots, and the Rivers ſwell and overflow their Banks, and drown the low Land, carrying great Trees into the Sea. Thus it continues ſome⯑times a week together, before the Sun or Stars appear. The fierceſt of this Weather is in the latter end of July and in Auguſt, for then the Towns ſeem to ſtand in a great Pond, and they go from one Houſe to another in Canoas. At this time the Water carries away all the filth and naſtineſs from under their Houſes. Whilſt this tempeſtuous ſeaſon laſts, the Weather is Cold and Chilly. In September the Wea⯑ther is more moderate, and the Winds are not ſo [323] fierce, nor the Rain ſo violent. The Air thence⯑forward begins to be more clear and delightſome; but then in the morning there are thick Fogs, con⯑tinuing till 10 or 11 a Clock before the Sun ſhines out, eſpecially when it has rained in the Night. In October the Eaſterly Winds begin to blow again, and bring fair Weather till April. Thus much concern⯑ing the natural ſtate of Mindanao.

CHAP. XII.

THis Iſland is not ſubject to one Prince, nei⯑ther is the Language one and the ſame; but the People are much alike, in colour, ſtrength, and ſtature. They are all or moſt of them of [325] one Religion, which is Mahometaniſm, and their cuſtoms and manner of living are alike. The Mindanao People, more particularly ſo called, are the greateſt Nation in the Iſland, and trading by Sea with other Nations, they are therefore the more civil. I ſhall ſay but little of the reſt, being leſs known to me, but ſo much as hath come to my knowledge, take as follows. There are beſides the Mindanayans, the Hilanoones, (as they call them) or the Mountaneers, the Sologues and Alſoores.

The Hilanoones live in the heart of the Country: They have little or no commerce by Sea, yet they have Proe's that row with 12 or 14 Oars apiece. They enjoy the benefit of the Gold Mines; and with their Gold buy forreign Commodities of the Mindanao People. They have alſo plenty of Bees-Wax, which they exchange for other Commodi⯑ties.

The Sologues inhabit the N. W. end of the Iſland. They are the leaſt Nation of all; they Trade to Manila in Proes, and to ſome of the Neighbouring Iſlands, but have no Commerce with the Mindanao People.

The Alſoores are the ſame with the Mindanayans, and were formerly under the ſubjection of the Sultan of Mindanao, but were divided between the Sultan's Children, and have of late had a Sultan of their own; but having by Marriage contracted an alliance with the Sultan of Mindanao, this has oc⯑caſioned that Prince to claim them again as his Subjects; and he made War with them a little after we went away, as I afterwards underſtood.

The Mindanayans properly ſo called, are Men of mean ſtatures; ſmall Limbs, ſtraight Bodies, and little Heads. Their Faces are oval, their Fore⯑heads flat, with black ſmall Eyes, ſhort low No⯑ſes, pretty large Mouths; their Lips thin and red, their Teeth black, yet very ſound, their Hair [326] black and ſtraight, the colour of their Skin taw⯑ney, but inclining to a brighter yellow than ſome other Indians, eſpecially the Women. They have a Cuſtom to wear their Thumb-nails very long, eſpecially that on their left Thumb, for they do never cut it but ſcrape it often. They are indued with good natural Wits, are ingenious, nimble, and active, when they are minded; but generally very lazy and thieviſh, and will not work except forced by Hunger. This lazineſs is natural to moſt Indi⯑ans; but theſe People's lazineſs ſeems rather to pro⯑ceed not ſo much from their natural Inclinations, as from the ſeverity of their Prince of whom they ſtand in awe: For he dealing with them very ar⯑bitrarily, and taking from them what they get, this damps their Induſtry, ſo they never ſtrive to have any thing but from Hand to Mouth. They are generally proud, and walk very ſtately. They are civil enough to Strangers, and will eaſily be acquainted with them, and entertain them with great freedom; but they are implacable to their Enemies, and very revengeful if they are injured, frequently poiſoning ſecretly thoſe that have af⯑fronted them.

They wear but few Cloaths; their Heads are circled with a ſhort Turbat, fringed or laced at both ends; it goes once about the Head, and is tied in a knot, the laced ends hanging down. They wear Frocks and Breeches, but no Stockings nor Shooes.

The Women are fairer than the Men; and their Hair is black and long; which they tie in a knot, that hangs back in their Poles. They are more round viſaged than the Men, and generally well featured; only their Noſes are very ſmall, and ſo low between their Eyes, that in ſome of the Fe⯑male Children the riſing that ſhould be between the Eyes is ſcarce diſcernable; neither is there any [327] ſenſible riſing in their Foreheads. At a diſtance they appear very well; but being nigh, theſe Im⯑pediments are very obvious. They have very ſmall Limbs. They wear but two Garments; a Frock, and a ſort of Petticoat; the Petticoat is only a piece of Cloth, ſowed both ends together: but it is made two Foot too big for their Waſtes, ſo that they may wear either end uppermoſt: that part that comes up to their Waſtes, becauſe it is ſo much to big, they gather it in their Hands, and twiſt it till it ſits cloſe to their Waſtes, tucking in the twiſted part between their Waſte and the edge of the Petticoat, which keeps it cloſe. The Frock ſits looſe about them, and reaches down a little below the Waſte. The Sleeves are a great deal longer than their Arms, and ſo ſmall at the end, that their Hands will ſcarce go through. Being on, the Sleeve ſits in folds about the wriſt, wherein they take great pride.

The better ſort of People have their Garments made of long Cloth; but the ordinary ſort wear Cloth made of Plantain-tree, which they call Saggen, by which Name they call the Plantain. They have neither Stocking or Shooe, and the VVomen have very ſmall Feet.

The VVomen are very deſirous of the company of Strangers, eſpecially of VVhite Men; and doubt⯑leſs would be very familiar, if the Cuſtom of the Country did not debar them from that freedom, which ſeems coveted by them. Yet from the high⯑eſt to the loweſt they are allowed liberty to con⯑verſe with, or treat Strangers in the fight of their Husbands.

There is a kind of begging Cuſtom at Mindanao, that I have not met elſewhere with in all my Tra⯑vels; and which I believe is owing to the little Trade they have; which is thus: VVhen Strangers arrive here, the Mindanao Men will come aboard, [328] and invite them to their Houſes, and inquire who has a Comrade, (which word I believe they have from the Spaniards) or a Pagally, and who has not. A Comrade is a familiar Male-friend; a Pa⯑gally is an Innocent Platonick Friend of the other Sex. All Strangers are in a manner oblig'd to ac⯑cept of this Acquaintance and Familiarity, which muſt be firſt purchaſed with a ſmall Preſent, and afterwards confirmed with ſome Gift or other to continue the Acquaintance: and as often as the Stranger goes aſhore, he is welcome to his Comrade or Pagally's Houſe, where he may be entertained for his Money, to Eat, Drink, or Sleep; and com⯑plimented, as often as he comes aſhore, with To⯑bacco and Betel-Nut, which is all the Entertain⯑ment he muſt expect gratis. The richeſt Mens Wives are allow'd the freedom to converſe with her Pagally in publick, and may give or receive Preſents from him. Even the Sultans and the Generals Wives, who are always coopt up, will yet look out of their Cages when a Stranger paſſeth by, and de⯑mand of him if he wants a Pagally: and to invite him to their Friendſhip, will ſend a Preſent of To⯑bacco and Betel-nut to him by their Servants.

The chiefeſt City on this Iſland is called by the ſame name of Mindanao. It is ſeated on the South ſide of the Iſland, in lat. 7 d. 20 m. N. on the banks of a ſmall River, about two Mile from the Sea. The manner of building is ſomewhat ſtrange: yet generally uſed in this part of the Eaſt-Indies. Their Houſes are all built on Poſts, about 14, 16, 18, or 20 Foot high. Theſe Poſts are bigger or leſs, ac⯑cording to the intended magnificence of the Super⯑ſtructure. They have but one Floor, but many Par⯑titions or Rooms, and a Ladder or Stairs to go up out of the Streets. The Roof is large, and covered with Palmeto or Palm-leaves. So there is a clear paſſage like a Piazza (but a filthy one) under the [329] Houſe. Some of the poorer People that keep Ducks or Hens, have a fence made round the Poſts of their Houſes, with a Door to go in and out; and this Under-room ſerves for no other uſe. Some uſe this place for the common draught of their Houſes, but building moſtly cloſe by the River in all parts of the Indies, they make the River receive all the filth of their Houſe; and at the time of the Land-floods, all is waſhed very clean.

The Sultan's Houſe is much bigger than any of the reſt. It ſtands on about 180 great Poſts or Trees, a great deal higher than the common Building, with great broad Stairs made to go up. In the firſt Room he hath about 20 Iron Guns, all Saker and Minion, placed on Field-Carriages. The General, and other great Men have ſome Guns alſo in their Houſes. About 20 paces from the Sultan's Houſe there is a ſmall low Houſe, built purpoſely for the Reception of Ambaſſadors or Merchant Strangers. This alſo ſtands on Poſts, but the Floor is not raiſed above three or four Foot above the Ground, and is neatly Matted purpoſely for the Sultan and his Council to ſit on; for they uſe no Chairs, but ſit croſs-legg'd like Taylors on the Floor.

The common Food at Mindanao is Rice, or Sago, and a ſmall Fiſh or two. The better ſort eat Buffa⯑lo, or Fowls ill dreſt, and abundance of Rice with it. They uſe no Spoons to eat their Rice, but every Man takes a handful out of the Platter, and by wetting his Hand in Water, that it may not ſtick to his Hand, ſqueezes it into a lump, as hard as poſſibly he can make it, and then crams it into his Mouth. They all ſtrive to make theſe lumps as big as their Mouths can receive them; and ſeem to vie with each other, and glory in taking in the biggeſt lump; ſo that ſometimes they almoſt choak them⯑ſelves. They always waſh after Meals, or if they touch any thing that is unclean; for which reaſon [330] they ſpend abundance of VVater in their Houſes. This VVater, with the waſhing of their Diſhes, and what other filth they make, they pour down near their Fire-place: for their Chambers are not boarded, but floored with ſplit Bamboes, like Lathe, ſo that the VVater preſently falls underneath their dwelling Rooms, where it breeds Maggots, and makes a pro⯑digious ſtink. Beſides this filthineſs, the ſick Peo⯑ple eaſe themſelves, and make VVater in their Cham⯑bers; there being a ſmall hole made purpoſely in the floor, to let it drop through. But healthy ſound People commonly eaſe themſelves, and make VVater in the River. For that reaſon you ſhall always ſee abundance of People, of both Sexes in the River. from Morning till Night; ſome eaſing themſelves, others waſhing their bodies or Cloaths. If they come into the River purpoſely to waſh their Cloaths, they ſtrip and ſtand naked till they have done; then put them on, and march out again: both Men and VVo⯑men take great delight in ſwimming, and waſhing themſelves, being bred to it from their Infancy. I do believe it is very wholſom to waſh Mornings and Evenings in theſe hot Countries, at leaſt three or four Days in the VVeek: For I did uſe my ſelf to it when I lived afterwards at Ben-cooly, and found it very refreſhing and comfortable. It is very good for thoſe that have Fluxes to waſh and ſtand in the River Mornings and Evenings. I ſpeak it experimen⯑tally; for I was brought very low with that diſtem⯑per at Achin; but by waſhing conſtantly Mornings and Evenings I found great benefit, and was quickly cured by it.

In the City of Mindanao they ſpeak two Lan⯑guages indifferently; their own Mindanao Lan⯑guage, and the Malaya: but in other parts of the Iſland they ſpeak only their proper Language, ha⯑ving little Commerce abroad. They have Schools, and inſtruct the Children to Read and VVrite, and [331] bring them up in the Mahometan Religion. There fore many of the words, eſpecially their Prayers, are in Arabick; and many of the words of civility the ſame as in Turkey; and eſpecially when they meet in the Morning, or take leave of each other, they expreſs themſelves in that Language.

Many of the old People, both Men and Women, can ſpeak Spaniſh, for the Spaniards were formerly ſettled among them, and had ſeveral Forts on this Iſland; and then they ſent two Friers to the City, to convert the Sultan of Mindanao and his People. At that time theſe People began to learn Spaniſh, and the Spaniards incroached on them and endea⯑voured to bring them into ſubjection; and proba⯑bly before this time had brought them all under their yoak, if they themſelves had not been drawn off from this Iſland to Manila, to reſiſt the Chineſs, who threatned to invade them there. When the Spa⯑niards were gone, the old Sultan of Mindanao, Fa⯑ther to the preſent, in whoſe time it was, razed and demoliſhed their Forts, brought away their Guns, and ſent away the Friers; and ſince that time will not ſuffer the Spaniards to ſettle on the Iſlands.

They are now moſt afraid of the Dutch, being ſenſible how they have inſlaved many of the Neigh⯑bouring Iſlands. For that Reaſon they have a long time deſired the Engliſh to ſettle among them, and have offered them any convenient Place to build a Fort in, as the General himſelf told us; giving this Reaſon, that they do not find the Engliſh ſo in⯑croaching as the Dutch or Spaniſh. The Dutch are no leſs jealous of their admitting the Engliſh, for they are ſenſible what detriment it would be to them if the Engliſh ſhould ſettle here.

There are but few Tradeſmen at the City of Mindanao. The chiefeſt Trades are Goldſmiths, Blackſmiths, and Carpenters. There are but two or [332] three Goldſmiths; theſe will work in Gold or Silver, and make any thing that you deſire: but they have no Shop furniſhed with Ware ready made for Sale. Here are ſeveral Blackſmiths who work very well, conſidering the Tools that they work with. Their Bellows are much different from ours. They are made of a wooden Cylinder, the trunk of a Tree, about three Foot long, bored hollow like a Pump, and ſet upright on the ground, on which the Fire it ſelf is made. Near the lower end there is a ſmall hole, in the ſide of the Trunk next the Fire, made to re⯑ceive a Pipe, through which the wind is driven to the Fire by a great bunch of fine Feathers faſtned to one end of the Stick, which cloſing up the inſide of the Cylinder, drives the Air out of the Cylinder through the Pipe: Two of theſe Trunks or Cy⯑linders are placed ſo nigh together, that a Man ſtanding between them may work them both at once alternately, one with each Hand. They have neither Vice nor Anvil, but a great hard Stone or a piece of an old Gun, to hammer upon: yet they will perform their work making both common Utenſils and Iron-works about Ships to admiration. They work altogether with Charcoal. Every Man almoſt is a Carpenter, for they can work with the Ax and Adds. Their Ax is but ſmall, and ſo made that they can take it out of the Helve, and by turn⯑ing it make an Adds of it. They have no Saws; but when they make Plank, they ſplit the Tree in two, and make a Plank of each part, plaining it with the Ax and Adds. This requires much pains, and takes up a great deal of time; but they work cheap, and the goodneſs of the Plank thus hewed, which hath its grain preſerv'd entire, makes a⯑mends for their coſt and pains.

They build good and ſerviceable Ships or Barks for the Sea, ſome for Trade, others for Pleaſure; and ſome Ships of War. Their trading Veſſels they [333] ſend chiefly to Manila. Thither they tranſport Bees-wax, which, I think, is the only Commodity, be⯑ſides Gold that they vend there. The Inhabitants of the City of Mindanao get a great deal of Bees-wax themſelves: but the greateſt quantity they purchaſe is of the Mountaneers, from whom they alſo get the Gold which they ſend to Manila; and with theſe they buy their Calicoes, Muſlins, and China Silk. They ſend ſometimes their Barks to Borneo and other Iſlands; but what they tranſport thither, or import from thence, I know not. The Dutch come hither in Sloops from Ternate and Tidore, and buy Rice, Bees-wax, and Tobacco: for here is a great deal of Tobacco grows on this Iſland, more than in any Iſland or Country in the Eaſt-Indies, that I know of, Manila only excepted. It is an excellent ſort of Tobacco; but theſe People have not the Art of managing this Trade to their beſt advantage, as the Spaniards have at Manila. I do believe the Seeds were firſt brought hither from Manila by the Spaniards, and even thither, in all probability, from America: the difference between the Mindanao and Manila Tobacco is, that the Min⯑danao Tobacco is of a darker colour; and the Leaf larger and groſſer than the Manila Tobacco, being propagated or planted in a fatter Soil. The Manila Tobacco is of a bright yellow colour, of an in⯑different ſize, not ſtrong, but pleaſant to Smoak. The Spaniards at Manila are very curious about this Tobacco, having a peculiar way of making it up nearly in the Leaf. For they take two little Sticks, each about a Foot long, and flat, and placing the Stalks of the Tobacco Leaves in a row, 40 or 50 of them between the two Sticks, they bind them hard together, ſo that the Leaves hang dangling down. One of theſe bundles is ſold for a Rial at Fort St. George: but you may have 10 or 12 pound of Tobacco at Mindanao for a Rial; and the Tobacco is [334] as good, or rather better than the Manila Tobacco but they have not that vent for it as the Spaniards have.

The Mindanao People are much troubled with a ſort of Leproſie, the ſame as we obſerved at Guam. This Diſtemper runs with a dry Scurf all over their Bodies, and cauſeth great itching in thoſe that have it, making them frequently ſcratch and ſcrub them⯑ſelves, which raiſeth the outer skin in ſmall whitiſh flakes, like the ſcales of little Fiſh, when they are raiſed on end with a Knife. This makes their skin extraordinary rough, and in ſome you ſhall ſee broad white ſpots in ſeveral parts of their Body. I judge ſuch have had it, but are cured; for their skins were ſmooth, and I did not perceive them to ſcrub themſelves: yet I have learnt from their own mouths that theſe ſpots were from this Diſtemper. Whether they uſe any means to cure themſelves, or whether it goes away of it ſelf, I know not: but I did not perceive that they made any great matter of it, for they did never refrain any company for it; none of our People caught it of them, for we were afraid of it, and kept off. They are ſome⯑times troubled with the Small Pox, but their ordi⯑nary Diſtempers are Fevers, Agues, Fluxes, with great pains, and gripings in their Guts. The Coun⯑try affords a great many Drugs and Medicinal Herbs, whoſe Virtues are not unknown to ſome of them that pretend to cure the Sick.

The Mindanao Men have many Wives: but what Ceremonies are uſed when they Marry I know not. There is commonly a great Feaſt made by the Bridegroom to entertain his Friends, and the moſt part of the Night is ſpent in Mirth.

The Sultan is abſolute in his Power over all his Subjects. He is but a poor Prince; for as I men⯑tioned before, they have but little Trade, and therefore cannot be rich. If the Sultan underſtands [335] that any Man has Money, if it be but 20 Dollars, which is a great matter among them, he will ſend to borrow ſo much Money, pretending urgent oc⯑caſions for it; and they dare not deny him. Some⯑times he will ſend to ſell one thing or another that he hath to diſpoſe of, to ſuch whom he knows to have Money, and they muſt buy it, and give him his price; and if afterwards he hath occaſion for the ſame thing, he muſt have it if he ſends for it. He is but a little Man, between 50 or 60 Years old, and by relation very good natured, but over-ruled by thoſe about him. He has a Queen, and keeps about 29 Women, or Wives more, in whoſe com⯑pany he ſpends moſt of his time. He has one Daughter by his Sultaneſs or Queen, and a great many Sons and Daughters by the reſt. Theſe walk about the Streets, and would be always beg⯑ging things of us; but it is reported, that the young Princeſs is kept in a Room, and never ſtirs out, and that ſhe did never ſee any Man but her Father and Raja Laut her Uncle, being then about Fourteen Years Old.

When the Sultan viſits his Friends he is carried in a ſmall Couch on four Mens ſhoulders, with eight or ten armed Men to guard him; but he never goes far this way; for the Country is very Woody, and they have but little Paths, which renders it the leſs commodious. When he takes his pleaſure by Wa⯑ter, he carries ſome of his Wives along with him. The Proes that are built for this purpoſe, are large enough to entertain 50 or 60 Perſons or more. The Hull is neatly built, with a round Head and Stern, and over the Hull there is a ſmall ſlight Houſe built with Bamboes; the ſides are made up with ſplit Bamboes, about four Foot high, with little Windows in them of the ſame, to open and ſhut at their pleaſure. The roof is almoſt flat, neatly thatched with Palmeto Leaves. This Houſe is di⯑vided [336] into two or three ſmall Partitions or Chambers, one particularly for himſelf. This is neatly Matted underneath, and round the ſides; and there is a Carpit and Pillows for him to ſleep on. The ſe⯑cond Room is for his Women, much like the for⯑mer. The third is for the Servants, who tend them with Tobacco and Betel-Nut; for they are always chewing or ſmoaking. The fore and after-parts of the Veſſel are for the Marriners to ſit and Row. Be⯑ſides this, they have Outlayers, ſuch as thoſe I de⯑ſcribed at Guam; only the Boats and Outlayers here are larger. Theſe Boats are more round, like the Half-Moon almoſt; and the Bamboes or Out⯑layers that reach from the Boat are alſo crooked. Beſides, the Boat is not flat on one ſide here, as at Guam; but hath a Belly and Outlayers on each ſide: and whereas at Guam there is a little Boat fa⯑ſten'd to the Outlayers, that lies in the Water; the Beams or Bamboes here are faſten'd traverſe⯑wiſe to the Outlayers on each ſide, and touch not the Water like Boats, but 1, 3 or 4 Foot above the Water, and ſerve for the Barge Men to ſit and Row and paddle on; the inſide of the Veſſel, except on⯑ly juſt afore and abaft, being taken up with the apartments for the Paſſengers. There run a-croſs the Outlayers two tire of Beams for the Padlers to ſit on, on each ſide the Veſſel. The lower tire of theſe Beams is not a bove a Foot from the Water: ſo that upon any the leaſt reeling of the Veſſel, the Beams are dipt in the Water, and the Men that ſit are wet up to their Waſte: their Feet ſeldom eſca⯑ping the Water. And thus as all our Veſſels are Rowed from within, theſe are Paddled from with⯑out.

The Sultan hath a Brother called Raja Laut, a brave Man. He is the ſecond Man in the Kingdom. All Strangers that come hither to Trade muſt make their Addreſs to him, for all Sea Affairs belong to [337] him. He Licenceth Strangers to Import or Export any Commodity, and 'tis by his Permiſſion that the Natives themſelves are ſuffered to Trade: Nay the very Fiſhermen muſt ake a Permit from him: So that there is no Man can come into the River or go out but by his leave. He is two or three Years younger than the Sultan, and a little Man like him. He has eight Women, by ſome of whom he hath Iſſue. He hath only one Son, about twelve or fourteen Years old, who was Circumciſed while we were there. His Eldeſt Son died a little before we came hither, for whom he was ſtill in great heavi⯑neſs. If he had lived a little longer he ſhould have Married the Young Princeſs, but whether this ſecond Son muſt have her I know not, for I did never hear any Diſcourſe about it. Raja Laut is a very ſharp Man; he ſpeaks and writes Spaniſh, which he learned in his Youth. He has by often converſing with Strangers, got a great ſight into the Cuſtoms of other Nations, and by Spaniſh Books has ſome knowledge of Europe. He is General of the Min⯑danayans, and is accounted an expert Soldier and a very ſtout Man; and the Women in their Dances, Sing many Songs in his praiſe.

The Sultan of Mindanao ſometimes makes War with his Neighbours the Mountaneers or Alfoores. Their Weapons are Swords, Lances and ſome Hand-Creſſets. The Creſſet is a ſmall thing like a Baggonet, which they always wear in War or Peace, at Work or Play, from the greateſt of them to the pooreſt, or the meaneſt Perſons. They do never meet each other ſo as to have a pitcht Battle, but they build ſmall Works or Forts of Timber, wherein they plant little Guns, and lie in ſight of each other 2 or 3 Months, skirmiſhing every Day in ſmall Parties, and ſometimes ſurprizing a Breſt-work; and whatever ſide is like to be worſted, if they have no probability to eſcape by flight, they [336] [...] [337] [...] [338] ſell their lives as dear as they can; for there is ſel⯑dom any quarter given, but the Conqueror cuts and hacks his Enemies to pieces.

The Religion of theſe People is Mahometaniſm, Friday is their Sabbath; but I did never ſee any difference that they make between this Day and any other Day, only the Sultan himſelf goes then to the Moſque twice. Raja Laut never goes to the Moſque, but Prays at certain Hours, Eight or Ten times in a Day; where ever he is, he is very punctual to his Canonical Hours, and if he be aboard will go aſhore, on purpoſe to Pray. For no Buſineſs nor Company hinders him from this Duty. Whether he is at home or abroad, in a Houſe or in the Field, he leaves all his Company, and goes about 100 Yards off, and there kneels down to his Devotion. He firſt kiſſes the Ground, then prays aloud, and divers times in his Prayers he kiſſes the Ground, and does the ſame when he leaves off. His Servants, and his Wives and Children talk and ſing, or play how they pleaſe all the time, but himſelf is very ſerious. The meaner ſort of People have little De⯑votion: I did never ſee any of them at their Pray⯑ers, or go into a Moſque.

In the Sultan's Moſque there is a great Drum with but one Head called a Gong; which is inſtead of a Clock. This Gong is beaten at 12 a Clock, at 3, 6, and 9; a Man being appointed for that Ser⯑vice. He has a Stick as big as a Man's Arm, with a great knob at the end, bigger than a Man's Fiſt, made with Cotton, bound faſt with ſmall Cords: with this he ſtrikes the Gong as hard as he can, about 20 ſtrokes; beginning to ſtrike leiſurely the firſt 5 or 6 ſtrokes; then he ſtrikes faſter, and at laſt ſtrikes as faſt as he can; and then he ſtrikes again ſlower and ſlower ſo many more ſtrokes: thus he riſes and falls three times, and then leaves off till three Hours after. This is done Night and Day.

[339] They circumciſe the Males at 11 or 12 Years of Age, or older; and many are circumciſed at once. This Ceremony is performed with a great deal of Solemnity. There had been no Circumciſion for ſome Years before our being here; and then there was one for Raja Laut's Son. They chuſe to have a general Circumciſion when the Sultan, or Ge⯑neral, or ſome other great Perſon hath a Son fit to be Circumciſed; for with him a great many more are Circumciſed. There is notice given about 8 or 10 Days before for all Men to appear in Arms, and great preparation is made againſt the ſolemn Day. In the Morning before the Boys are Circum⯑ciſed, Preſents are ſent to the Father of the Child, that keeps the Feaſt; which, as I ſaid before, is either the Sultan, or ſome great Perſon: and about 10 or 11 a Clock the Mahometan Prieſt does his Of⯑fice. He takes hold of the fore-skin with two Sticks, and with a pair of Sciſſors ſnips it off. After this moſt of the Men, both in City and Country being in Arms before the Houſe, begin to act as if they were ingaged with an Enemy, having ſuch Arms as I deſcribed. Only one acts at a time, the reſt make a great Ring of 2 or 300 Yards round about him. He that is to exerciſe comes into the Ring with a great ſhriek or two, and a horrid look; then he fetches two or three large ſtately ſtrides, and falls to work. He holds his broad Sword in one Hand, and his Lance in the other, and traverſes his Ground, leap⯑ing from one ſide of the Ring to the other; and in a menacing poſture and look, bids defiance to the Enemy, whom his fancy frames to him; for there is nothing but Air to oppoſe him. Then he ſtamps and ſhakes his Head, and grinning with his Teeth makes many ruful Faces. Then he throws his Lance, and nimbly ſnatches out his Creſſet, with which he hacks and hews the Air like a Mad-man, often ſhrieking At laſt, being almoſt tired with [340] motion, he flies to the middle of the Ring, where he ſeems to have his Enemy at his Mercy, and with two or three blows cuts on the Ground as if he was cutting off his Enemy's Head. By this time he is all of a Sweat, and withdraws triumphantly out of the Ring, and preſently another enters with the like ſhrieks and geſture. Thus they continue com⯑bating their imaginary Enemy all the reſt of the Day; towards the concluſion of which the richeſt Men act, and at laſt the General, and then the Sultan concludes this Ceremony: He and the Ge⯑neral with ſome other great Men, are in Armor, but the reſt have none. After this the Sultan re⯑turns home, accompanied with abundance of Peo⯑ple who wait on him there till they are diſmiſt. But at the time when we were there, there was an after game to be played; for the General's Son being then Circumciſed, the Sultan intended to give him a ſecond viſit in the Night, ſo they all waited to attend him thither. The General alſo pro⯑vided to meet him in the beſt manner, and there⯑fore deſired Captain Swan with his Men to attend him. Accordingly Captain Swan ordered us to get our Guns, and wait at the General's Houſe till fur⯑ther Orders. So about 40 of us waited till Eight a Clock in the Evening: When the General with Captain Swan, and about 1000 Men, went to meet the Sultan, with abundance of Torches that made it as light as Day. The manner of the march was thus. Firſt of all there was a Pageant, and upon it two dancing Women gorgeouſly apparelled, with Co⯑ronets on their Heads, full of gliſtering Spangles, and Pendants of the ſame, hanging down over their Breaſt and Shoulders. Theſe are Women bred up purpoſely for dancing: Their Feet and Legs are but little imployed, except ſometimes to turn round very gently; but their Hands, Arms, Head and Body, are in continual motion, eſpeci⯑ally [341] their Arms, which they turn and twiſt ſo ſtrangely, that you would think them to be made without Bones. Beſides the two dancing Women, there were two old Women in the Pageant, hold⯑ing each a lighted Torch in their Hands, cloſe by the two dancing Women, by which light the glit⯑tering Spangles appeared very gloriouſly. This Pageant was carried by ſix luſty Men: Then came ſix or ſeven Torches, lighting the General and Cap⯑tain Swan, who marched ſide by ſide next, and we that attended Captain Swan followed cloſe after, marching in order ſix and ſix abreſt, with each Man his Gun on his Shoulder, and Torches on each ſide. After us came twelve of the General's Men with old Spaniſh Match-locks, marching four in a row. After them about forty Lances, and behind them as many with great Swords, marching all in order. After them came abundance only with Creſſers by their fides, who marched up cloſe without any order. When we came near the Sultan's Houſe, the Sultan and his Men met us, and we wheel'd off to let them paſs. The Sultan had three Pageants went before him: In the firſt Pageant were four of his Sons, who were about 10 or 11 Years old. They had gotten abundance of ſmall Stones, which they roguiſhly threw about on the Peoples Heads. In the next were four young Maidens, Nieces to the Sultan, being his Siſters Daughters; and in the 3d, there were three of the Sultan's Children, not above ſix Years old. The Sultan himſelf followed next, being carried in his Couch, which was not like your Indian Palankins, but open, and very little and ordinary. A multitude of People came after, with⯑out any order: but as ſoon as he was paſt by, the General, and Captain Swan, and all our Men, clo⯑ſed in juſt behind the Sultan, and ſo all marched together to the General's Houſe. We came thither between 10 and 11 a Clock, where the biggeſt part [342] of the Company were immediately diſmiſt; but the Sultan and his Children, and his Nieces, and ſome other Perſons of Quality, entred the General's Houſe. They were met at the head of the Stairs by the General's Women, who with a great deal of Reſpect conducted them into the Houſe. Captain Swan, and we that were with him followed after. It was not long before the General cauſed his dancing Women to enter the Room, and divert the Company with that paſtime. I had forgot to tell you that they have none but vocal Muſick here, by what I could learn, except only a row of a kind of Bells without Clappers, 16 in number, and their weight increaſing gradually from about three to ten pound weight. Theſe were ſet in a row on a Table in the General's Houſe, where for ſeven or eightDays together before the Circumciſion Day, they were ſtruck each with a little Stick, for the biggeſt part of the Day making a great noiſe, and they ceaſed that Morning. So theſe dancing Women ſung them⯑ſelves, and danced to their own Muſick. After this the General's Women, and the Sultan's Sons, and his Nieces danced. Two of the Sultan's Nieces were about 18 or 19 Years Old, the other two were three or four Years Younger. Theſe Young Ladies were very richly dreſt, with looſe Garments of Silk, and ſmall Coronets on their Heads. They were much fairer than any Women that I did ever ſee there, and very well featured; and their Noſes, tho' but ſmall, yet higher than the other Womens, and very well proportioned. When the Ladies had very well diverted themſelves and the Company with dancing, the General cauſed us to fire ſome Sky-rockets, that were made by his and Captain Swan's Order, purpoſely for this Nights Solemnity; and after that the Sultan and his retinue went a⯑way with a few Attendants, and we all broke up, and thus ended this Days Solemnity: but the Boys [343] being ſore with their Amputation, went ſtradding for a fortnight after.

They are not, as I ſaid before, very curious, or ſtrict in obſerving any Days, or Times of particular Devotions, except it be Ramdam time, as we call it. The Ramdam time was then in Auguſt, as I take it, for it was ſhortly after our arrival here. In this time they Faſt all Day and about ſeven a Clock in the Evening, they ſpend near an Hour in Prayer. Towards the latter end of their Prayer, they loudly invoke their Prophet, for about a quarter of an Hour, both old and young bawling out very ſtrangely, as if they intended to fright him out of his ſleepineſs or neglect of them. After their Prayer is ended, they ſpend ſome time in Feaſting before they take their repoſe. Thus they do every Day for a whole Month at leaſt; for ſometimes 'tis two or three Days longer before the Ramdam ends: For it begins at the New Moon, and laſts till they ſee the next New Moon, which ſometimes in thick hazy Wea⯑ther is not till three or four Days after the Change, as it happen'd while I was at Achin, where they continued the Ramdam till the New Moon's ap⯑pearance. The next Day after they have ſeen the New Moon, the Guns are all diſcharged about Noon, and then the time ends.

A main part of their Religion conſiſts in waſhing often, to keep themſelves from being defiled; or after they are defiled to cleanſe themſelves again. They alſo take great care to keep themſelves from being polluted, by taſting or touching any thing that is accounted Unclean; therefore Swines Fleſh is very abominable to them; nay, any one that hath ei⯑ther taſted of Swines fleſh, or touched thoſe Creatures, is not permitted to come into their Houſes in many Days after, and there is nothing will ſcare them more than a Swine. Yet there are wild Hogs in the Iſlands, and thoſe ſo plentiful, that they will [344] come in Troops out of the Woods in the Night in⯑to the very City, and come under their Houſes, to romage up and down the Filth that they find there. The Natives therefore would even deſire us to lie in wait for the Hogs, to deſtroy them, which we did frequently, by ſhooting them and carrying them preſently on board, but were prohi⯑bited their Houſes afterwards.

And now I am on this Subject, I cannot omit a Story concerning the General. He once deſired to have a pair of Shoes made after the Engliſh Fa⯑ſhion, tho' he did very ſeldom wear any: So one our Men made him a Pair, which the General liked very well. Afterwards ſome Body told him, That the Thread wherewith the Shoes were ſowed, were pointed with Hogs-briſtles. This put him into a great Paſſion; ſo he ſent the Shoes to the Man that made them, and ſent him withal more Leather to make another Pair, with Threads pointed with ſome other Hair, which was immediately done, and then he was well pleaſed.

CHAP. XIII.

HAving in the two laſt Chapters given ſome Account of the Natural, Civil, and Religious State of Mindanao, I ſhall now go on with the pro⯑ſecution of our Affairs during our ſtay there.

'Twas in a Bay on the N. Eaſt-ſide of the Iſland that we came to an Anchor, as hath been ſaid. We lay in this Bay but one Night, and part of the next Day. Yet there we got Speech with ſome of the Natives, who by ſigns made us to underſtand, that the City Mindanao was on the Weſt-ſide of the Iſland. We endeavoured to perſuade one of them, to go with us to be our Pilot, but he would not: Therefore in the Afternoon we looſed from hence, ſteering again to the South Eaſt, having the Wind at S. W. When we came to the S. E. end of the Iſland Mindanao, we ſaw two ſmall Iſlands about three Leagues diſtant from it. We might have paſſed between them and the main Iſland, as we learnt ſince; but not knowing them, nor what dangers we might encounter there, we choſe rather to Sail to the Eaſtward of them. But meeting very ſtrong Weſterly Winds, we got nothing forward in many [347] Days. In this time we firſt ſaw the Iſlands Mean⯑gis, which are about 16 Leagues diſtant from the Mindanao, bearing S. E. I ſhall have occaſion to ſpeak more of them hereafter.

The 4th Day of July we got into a deep Bay, four Leagues N. W. from the two ſmall Iſlands before mentioned. But the Night before, in a violent Tornado, our Bark being unable to beat any long⯑er, bore away, which put us in ſome pain for fear ſhe was overſet, as we had like to have been our ſelves. We anchored on the South Weſt ſide of the Bay, in fifteen fathom Water, about a Cables length from the ſhore. Here we were forced to ſhelter our ſelves from the violence of the Weather, which was ſo boiſterous with Rains, and Tornadoes, and a ſtrong Weſterly Wind, that we were very glad to find this place to Anchor in, being the only ſhelter on this ſide from the Weſt Winds.

This Bay is not above two Mile wide at the Mouth, but farther in it is three Leagues wide, and ſeven fathom deep, running in N. N. W. There is a good depth of Water about four or five Leagues in, but Rocky foul Ground for about two Leagues in, from the mouth on both ſides of the Bay, except only in that place where we lay. About three Lea⯑gues in from the mouth, on the Eaſtem ſide, there are fair ſandy Bays, and very good anchoring in four, five, and ſix fathom. The Land on the Eaſt ſide is high, Mountainous, and Woody, yet very well wa⯑tered with ſmall Brooks, and there is one River large enough for Canoes to enter. On the Weſt ſide of the Bay, the Land is of a mean heighth with a large Savannah, bordering on the Sea, and ſtretching from the mouth of the Bay, a great way to the Weſtward.

This Savannah abounds with long Graſs, and it is plentifully ſtock'd with Deer. The adjacent Woods are a covert for them in the heat of the Day: but [348] Mornings and Evenings they feed in the open Plains, as thick as in our Parks in England. I never ſaw any where ſuch plenty of wild Deer, tho' I have met with them in ſeveral parts of America, both in the North and South Seas.

The Deer live here pretty peaceably and unmo⯑leſted; for there are no Inhabitants on that ſide of the Bay. We viſited this Savannah every Morning, and killed as many Deer as we pleaſed, ſometimes 16 or 18 in a Day; and we did eat nothing but Veniſon all the time we ſtaid here.

We ſaw a great many Plantations by the ſides of the Mountains, on the Eaſt ſide of the Bay, and we went to one of them, in hopes to learn of the Inhabitants whereabouts the City was, that we might not over-ſail it in the Night: but they fled from us.

We lay here till the 12th Day before the Winds abated of their fury, and then we ſailed from hence, directing our courſe to the Weſtward. In the Morning we had a Land Wind at North. At 11 a Clock the Sea breeze came at Weſt, juſt in our Teeth, but it being fair Weather, we kept on our way, turning and taking the advantage of the Land breezes by Night, and the Sea breezes by Day.

Being now paſt the S. E part of the Iſland, we coaſted down on the South ſide, and we ſaw a⯑bundance of Canoas a fiſhing, and now and then a ſmall Village. Neither were theſe Inhabitants a⯑fraid of us (as the former) but came aboard; yet we could not underſtand them, nor they us, but by ſigns: and when we mentioned the word Mindanao, they would point towards it.

The 18th Day of July we arrived before the Ri⯑ver of Mindanao; the mouth of which lies in lat. 6 d. 22 m. N. and is laid in 231 d. 12 m. Longi⯑tude Weſt, from the Lizard in England. We anchor⯑ed right againſt the River in 15 fathom Water, clear [349] hard Sand; about 2 Miles from the ſhore, and 3 or 4 Miles from a ſmall Iſland, that lay without us to the Southward. VVe fired 7 or 9 Guns, I remem⯑ber not well which, and were anſwered again with 3 from the ſhore; for which we gave one again. Immediately after our coming to an Anchor Raja Laut, and one of the Sultan's Sons came off in a Canoa, being rowed with 10 Oars, and demanded in Spaniſh what we were? and from whence we came? Mr. Smith (he who was taken Priſoner at Leon in Mexico) anſwered in the ſame Language, that we were Engliſh, and that we had been a great while out of England. They told us that we were welcome, and asked us a great many queſtions a⯑bout England; eſpecially concerning our Eaſt India Merchants; and whether we were ſent by them to ſettle a Factory here? Mr. Smith told them that we came hither only to buy Proviſion. They ſeemed a little diſcontented when they underſtood that we were not come to ſettle among them: for they had heard of our arrival on the Eaſt-ſide of the Iſland a great while before, and entertained hopes that we were ſent purpoſely out of England hither to ſettle a Trade with them; which it ſhould ſeem they are very deſirous of. For Capt. Goodlud had been here not long before to treat with them about it; and when he went away told them (as they ſaid) that in a ſhort time they might expect an Ambaſſadour from England, to make a full bargain with them.

Indeed upon mature thoughts, I ſhould think we could not have done better, than to have com⯑plied with the deſire they ſeemed to have of our ſettling here; and to have taken up our quarters among them. For as thereby we might better have conſulted our own profit and ſatisfaction, than by the other looſe roving way of life; ſo it might probably have proved of publick benefit to our Nation, and been a means of introducing an [350] Engliſh Settlement and Trade, not only here, but through ſeveral of the Spice-Iſlands, which lye in its neighbourhood.

For the Iſlands Meangis, which I mentioned in the beginning of this Chapter, lye within twenty Leagues of Mindanao. Theſe are three ſmalls Iſlands that abound with Gold and Cloves, If I may credit my Author Prince Jeoly, who was born on one of them, and was at that time a Slave in the City of Mindanao. He might have been purchaſed by us of his Maſter for a ſmall matter, as he was aftewards by Mr. Moody, (who came hither to trade, and laded a Ship with Clove-Bark) and by tranſporting him home to his own Country, we might have gotten a Trade there. But of Prince Jeoly I ſhall ſpeak more hereafter. Theſe Iſlands are as yet pro⯑bably unknown to the Dutch, who as I ſaid before, indeavour to ingroſs all the Spice into their own Hands.

There was another opportunity offered us here of ſettling on another Spice-Iſland that was very well inhabited: for the Inhabitants fearing the Dutch, and underſtanding that the Engliſh were ſet⯑tling at Mindanao, their Sultan ſent his Nephew to Mindanao while we were there to invite us thither: Captain Swan conferr'd with him about it divers times, and I do believe he had ſome Inclination to accept the offer; and I am ſure moſt of the Men were for it: but this never came to a head, for want of a true underſtanding between Captain Swan and his Men, as may be declared hereafter.

Beſide the benefit which might accrue from this Trade with Meangis, and other the Spice Iſlands, the Philippine Iſlands themſelves, by a little care and induſtry, might have afforded us a very bene⯑ficial Trade, and all theſe Trades might have been managed from Mindanao, by ſettling there firſt. For that Iſland lyeth very convenient for Trading [351] either to the Spice-Iſlands, or to the reſt of the Philippine Iſlands: ſince as its Soil is much of the ſame nature with either of them, ſo it lies as it were in the Center of the Gold and Spice Trade in theſe parts; the Iſlands North of Mindanao abounding moſt in Gold, and thoſe South of Meangis in Spice.

As the Iſland Mindanao lies very convenient for Trade, ſo conſidering its diſtance, the way thi⯑ther may not be over-long and tireſome. The Courſe that I would chooſe ſhould be to ſet out of England about the latter end of Auguſt, and to paſs round Terra del Fuego, and ſo ſtretching over to⯑wards New Holland, coaſt it along that Shore till I came near to Mindanao; or firſt I would coaſt down near the American Shore, as far as I found convenient, and then direct my Courſe accordingly for the Iſland. By this I ſhould avoid coming near any of the Dutch Settlements, and he ſure to meet always with a conſtant brisk Eaſterly Trade Wind, after I was once paſt Terra del Fuego. Whereas in paſſing about the Cape of Good Hope, after you are ſhot over the Eaſt-Indian Ocean, and are come to the Iſlands, you muſt paſs through the Streights of Malacca or Sandy, or elſe ſome other Streights Eaſt from Java, where you will be ſure to meet with Country-winds, go on which ſide of the Equator you pleaſe; and this would require ordinarily 7 or 8 Months for the Voyage, but the other I ſhould hope to perform in 6 or 7 at moſt. In your return from thence alſo you muſt obſerve the ſame Rule as the Spaniards do in going from Manila to Acapulco; only as they run towards the North-Pole for variable Winds, ſo you muſt run to the South⯑ward, till you meet with a Wind that will carry you over to Terra del Fuego. There are places e⯑nough to touch at for Refreſhment, either going or coming. You may touch going thither on ei⯑ther [352] ſide of Terra Patagonica, or, if you pleaſe, at the Gallapagoes Iſlands, where there is Refreſhment enough; and returning you may probably touch ſomewhere on New Holland, and ſo make ſome pro⯑fitable diſcovery in theſe Places without going out of your way. And to ſpeak my Thoughts freely, I believe 'tis owing to the neglect of this eaſie way that all that vaſt Tract of Terra Auſtralis which bounds the South Sea is yet undiſcovered: thoſe that croſs that Sea ſeeming to deſign ſome Buſineſs on the Peruvian or Mexican Coaſt, and ſo leaving that at a diſtance. To confirm which, I ſhall add what Captain Davis told me lately, That after his Departure from us at the Haven of Ria Lexa (as is mentioned in the 8th Chap.) he went after ſeve⯑ral Traverſes, to the Gallapagoes, and that ſtanding thence Southward for Wind, to bring him about Terra del Fuego, in the Lat. of 27 South, about 500 leagues from Copayapo, on the Coaſt of Coili, he ſaw a ſmall ſandy Iſland juſt by him; and that they ſaw to the Weſtward of it a long Tract of pretty high Land, tending away toward the North Weſt out of ſight. This might probably be the Coaſt of Terra Auſtralis Incognita.