[] A TOUR Through the ISLAND of GREAT BRITAIN. VOL. III.

LETTER I. Containing a Deſcription of the Counties of LINCOLN, RUTLAND, NORTHAMP⯑TON, HUNTINGDON, and BEDFORD.

FROM Newark, ſtill keeping the Foſs⯑way, which lies as ſtrait as a Line can mark it out, we went on to Lincoln, having a View of the great Church call'd the Minſter all the Way before us, the River Trent on the Left, and the Downs call'd Lincoln-Heath on the Right.

[2] Lincoln is an antient City, govern'd by a Mayor, Aldermen, &c. It is ſo full of the Ruins of Mona⯑ſteries, and Religious Houſes, that the very Barns, Stables, Out-houſes, and, as they ſhew'd me, ſome of the very Hog-ſtyes, are built Church-faſhion; that is to ſay, with Stone-Walls, and arch'd Win⯑dows and Doors. Here are 13 Churches, but the meaneſt to look on that are any-where to be ſeen. The Cathedral indeed, and the Ruins of the old Caſtle, are very venerable Pieces of Antiquity.

Lincoln was a Colony of the Romans, and by them nam'd Lindum Colonia, which very eaſily falls into the preſent abbreviated Appellation, Lincoln. From its bold and noble Situation upon an high Hill, it ſeems a Collection of Five Cities. For, firſt, be⯑low the Hill, and Weſtward of the City, the River throws itſelf into a great Pool called Swan-pool, from the Multitude of Swans upon it. All around this Place the Ground is moory, and full of Bogs and Iſlets; and the Place is called now Carham, i. e. a Dwelling upon the Car, or Fen. Here was the Britiſh City in the moſt early Times, which they uſed as a Faſtneſs for themſelves and Cattle in Times of deep Diſtreſs. From this Carham is a pleaſant View of the Weſt-Front of the Cathedral.

2. The Romans, pleas'd with this Eminence, placed their City upon it, which they firſt built in the Form of a large Square, the Southern Wall be⯑ing ſufficiently ſecur'd by the Precipice. Quite round the other Three Sides they carried a deep Trench, which ſtill remains, except on the South⯑eaſt Angle. This City was divided into Four equal Parts by Two croſs Streets. The Two Southern Quarters were taken up, one by the Caſtle, the other by the Church which Remigius built. But when Biſhop Alexander projected a Structure of much larger Dimenſions, the Incloſure was carried beyond the Eaſtern Bounds of the City, and a new Wall built [3] farther that way, as at preſent, with Battlements and Towers. The North Roman Gate of this Part of the City ſtill remains intire, call'd Newport Gate, and the nobleſt Remnant of this Sort in Bri⯑tain. It is a vaſt Semicircle of Stones laid together without Morter, and cemented only by their wedge⯑like Shape. This magnificent Arch is 16 Feet Dia⯑meter, the Stones Four Feet thick at Bottom. From this Gate Eaſtward ſome Part of the old Roman Wall is to be ſeen, made of Stone, and very ſtrong Mortar. The Weſt Gate towards the Gallows was pulled down within Memory. That on the South Side ſtill ſhews one Jamb from between the Houſes, and two or three Stones of the ſame Make as the former: the reſt has been pull'd down by Mr. Houghton. On the Eaſt Side one Poſtern is viſible, and big enough for a Bed to ſtand in. By Newport Gate is another large and curious Piece of Roman Workmanſhip, call'd the Mint-wall. This is ſtill 16 Feet high, and above 40 Feet long, compoſed of Brick and Stone, laid alternately.

3. The Romans, finding this City well ſituated for Navigation, added another to it as big as the former. This they did Southward upon the Decli⯑vity of the Hill, and ſo made it parallel with the other; and the moſt Southern Side lay upon the River. Eaſt⯑ward, the Ditch without is turn'd into a broad Street call'd The Beaſt-Market, and there below Claſkgate a great Part of the old Roman Wall is left, made of Stone. One Piece of it is now 80 Feet long, and 18 high. A little of it lower down is 12 Feet long, and as much high. Between that Gate upwards, and the old City-wall, by the Greeſtone-ſtairs, the old Ditch call'd Weredyke, is to be ſeen. To the Weſt the Ditch and Foundation of the Wall are ſtill loſt tho' many times repaired and demoliſhed in the frequent Sieges this Town has ſuſtain'd, eſpecially in the Wars of the Empreſs Maud. At the Bottom [4] of it, towards the Water, is a round Tower, named Lucy-tower, much known in her Hiſtory.

4. Another great Addition to the Length of this City, Northward above the Hill, was call'd Newport, or the new City, 500 Paces long. This probably was done in the Time of the Saxon Kings. It lies on both Sides the Hermen-ſtreet, and was fenc'd with a Wall and Ditch hewn out of the Rock. At the Two farther Corners were round Towers, and a Gate, the Foundations of which remain. There were ſeveral Churches, and religious Houſes, in this Place. It was chiefly inhabited by Jews, who had ſettled here in great Numbers, and grown rich by Trade. There is a Well ſtill nam'd Grantham's-well, from a Child they impiouſly crucified, as was ſaid, and threw it into that Place.

5. After the Norman Conqueſt, when a great Part of the firſt City was turn'd into a Caſtle, by King William I. it is probable they added the laſt Intake Southward in the Angle of the Witham, and made a new Cut call'd Sinſil-dyke on the South and Eaſt Side for its Security. It is obſervable, that the Normans could not well pronounce Lincoln, but vi⯑tiated it to Nichol, as we find it written in ſome old Authors: and to this Day a Part of the Swan-pool is call'd Nichol-pool.

Tho' ſince thoſe Times the City has much de⯑clin'd, of late it ſeems to revive, and Trade and Ma⯑nufactures to flouriſh.

In this laſt Part of Lincoln, on both Sides the Ro⯑man Road, were many of that People's funeral Mo⯑numents; ſome of which they now dig up. There is an Inſcription of that Sort behind the Houſe where the Lord Huſſey was beheaded for Rebellion in the Time of King Henry VIII. The great Bow-win⯑dow, thro' which he paſs'd to the Scaffold, was lately taken down. It ſtands over-againſt another Stone Building, of an antique Model, which was [5] the Palace of John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaſter, who lived here in Royal State, and had the Privilege of Coining. His Arms are here carv'd in Stone. Over-againſt the Caſtle, Weſtward, is an Entrench⯑ment made by King Stephen.

The Situation of the City, from what I have ſaid, muſt appear very particular; one Part is on the flat, and in a Bottom, ſo that the Witham, a little River, that runs through the Town, flows ſometimes into the Street: the other Part lies upon the Top of a high Hill, where the Cathedral ſtands; and the very ſteepeſt Part of the Aſcent of the Hill, is the beſt Part of the City for Trade and Buſineſs.

Nothing is more troubleſome than the Commu⯑nication of the upper and lower Town; the Street is ſo ſteep and ſo ſtrait, that the Coaches and Horſes are oblig'd to fetch a Compaſs another Way, as well on one Hand as on the other.

The River Witham is arch'd over, ſo that you ſee nothing of it as you go through the main Street; but it makes a large Lake on the Weſt Side, and has a Canal, called the Poſs-dike, by which it has a Com⯑munication with the Trent, whereby the Navigation of that River is made uſeful for Trade to the City. This River muſt have run into the Humber, had it not been broken off in the Middle by that great Val⯑ley under Lincoln, and turned into the Salt-marſhes. Hence it is that the Stone upon this Weſtern Cliff is full of Sea-ſhells. For the Shell-fiſh, when by the reſtleſs Motion of the Waters in the univerſal De⯑lage, they were carried into the midland Places, were hinder'd by the Weight of their Shells from regaining their original Stations; and thus were confin'd with⯑in the growing Stone. As a Teſtimony of which the Skeleton of a Crocodile, or ſome ſuch Animal, in⯑cloſed in a broad flat Stone, was ſent to the Royal Society from theſe Parts, by Dr. Stukeley, from whom we borrow this Obſervation.

[6]There are very good Buildings in the upper City, and ſeveral Families of Gentlemen have Houſes there, beſides thoſe of the Prebendaries and other Clergy belonging to the Cathedral.

The Cathedral is a magnificent Fabrick, and is reputed the largeſt in Extent of any Cathedral in England, except York. But there are in it many ob⯑vious Blemiſhes, which I ſhall particularly take No⯑tice of, in comparing it hereafter with York Minſter. The Situation is infinitely to its Advantage, as it ſtands upon a high Hill, and is ſeen into five or ſix Counties. It has a double Croſs or Tranſept. The Weſt End receives a great Addition to its Breadth, by reaſon of Two Chapels on each Side of the Side-Ayles; but the Two Towers and Spires are very mean, tho' not for want of Height.

This Cathedral has many Bells; and particularly the Northern Tower is filled up, as one may ſay, with the fineſt great Bell in England, which is called Tom of Lincoln, being probably conſecrated to Thomas Becket, Archbiſhop of Canterbury.—As loud as Tom of Lincoln is a Proverb. It weighs 4 Tons, 1894 Pounds, and will hold 424 Gallons Ale-meaſure; the Circumference is 22 Feet 8 Inches.

The Middle or Rood Tower is the higheſt in the whole Kingdom, and when the Spire was ſtand⯑ing on it, it muſt, in Proportion to the Height of the Tower, have exceeded that of old St. Paul's, which was 520 Feet. The Monks were ſo proud of this Structure, that they would have it, that the Devil looked upon it with an envious Eye; whence the Proverb of a Man who looks invidious and ma⯑lignant, He looks as the Devil over Lincoln. At pre⯑ſent there are only four very ordinary Pinacles, one at each Corner. It has Two great Gate-houſes or En⯑trances from the Weſt. The lower Part of the Fr [...]t, and of the Two Towers, are of Remigius's Building, as is eaſily diſcoverable by the Colour of [7] the Stones, and by the Manner of Architecture: but Alexander built the Additions upon it, as likewiſe the Body of the Cathedral, the Choir, and St. Mary's Tower, which once had a very lofty Spire. St. Hugh the Burgundian built the Eaſt End, or St. Mary's Chapel, (where he had a Shrine) and the Chapter⯑houſe, which is ceil'd with a beautiful Stone Roof, and one Pillar in the Middle.

The Cloiſters and the Library are fine; and the latter is well furniſhed with printed Books and Ma⯑nuſcripts.

Two Catharine-wheel Windows, as they are term'd, at the Ends of the larger Tranſepts, are re⯑markably fine for Bullion-work, and painted Glaſs.

Here are great Numbers of antique Braſſes and Monuments.

South of the Church, upon the very Brow of the Hill, is the Biſhop's Palace, built by Robert de Cheſ⯑ney, who gave Two great Bells. Biſhop Bek, and other Succeſſors, improv'd it into a Magnificence equal to the Cathedral. It ſtands juſt South of the Roman Wall. It had many large Bow-windows of curious Workmanſhip, looking over the lower City into Nottinghamſhire. The Kitchen had Seven Chimneys. The Hall was ſtately. The Gate⯑houſe remains intire with the A [...] of the Founders. This Palace was ruined in the Time of the Civil Wars; but might be rebuilt with no very great Ex⯑pence. As the Church is very large, ſo is the Re⯑venue of the Biſhoprick, which was formerly im⯑menſely great, as may be ſeen by the Monaſticon, where is an aſtoniſhing Account of the Wealth of the Place.

The Church, as it is the Seat of the Biſhoprick, is not ſo antient as ſome others; the See being re⯑mov'd, ſince the Norman Conqueſt, from Dorcheſter, a little Town in Oxfordſhire, on the River Thames, not far from Tame, of which I have ſpoken in its [8] Place; but the City is truly antient, and the Ruins of it tell us as much.

Mr. Camden ſays, King Vortimer, the valiant Bri⯑ton, dy'd here, and was buried in the Church of the great Monaſtery.

It is certain, as I have obſerv'd, that William the Conqueror built the Caſtle, to curb the potent Citi⯑zens; and the Ruins ſhew, that it was a moſt mag⯑nificent Work, well fortify'd, and capable of receiv⯑ing a numerous Gariſon.

The Biſhoprick of Lincoln at that Time contain'd all that now is compris'd in the Dioceſes of Ely, Peterborough, and Oxford, beſides what is now its own; and 'tis ſtill the largeſt Dioceſe in England; containing the ſeveral Counties of Lincoln, Leiceſter, Huntingdon, Bedford, Bucks, and Part of Hertford; and in them 1255 Pariſhes, whereof 577 are Im⯑propriations; and there are in theſe Bounds ſix Arch⯑deacons, viz. Lincoln, Leiceſter, Bedford, Bucking⯑ham, Stow, and Huntingdon.

Here was the famous Battle fought between the Friends of the Empreſs Maud, Mother to King Henry II. and King Stephen, in which that magnani⯑mous Prince was overthrown and taken Priſoner.

Lincoln ſtands in a moſt rich, pleaſant, and agree⯑able Country; for on the North, and South-eaſt, the noble Plain call'd Lincoln Heath, extends itſelf, like the Plain about Salisbury, for above 50 Miles; viz. from Sleeford and Ancaſter South, to the Bank of the Humber North, tho' not with a Breadth equal to the Length; for the Plain is hardly any⯑where above Three or Four Miles broad.

On the Weſt Side of this Plain, the Trent Waters make a pleaſant and rich Valley, running from New-ark to Gainſburgh, thence to Burton, and ſo into the Humber.

Gainſburgh hath a large and fine Market, and is very flouriſhing for Trade and Buſineſs, which hath [9] increaſed of late Years to the Detriment of Boſton and Hull.

The Body of the Pariſh-church of this Place had been under a general Decay, and the Walls, Arches, and Pillars, ſo ſhaken and declin'd from their proper Poſition, that it was judged incapable of Repair. An Act of Parliament therefore paſſed in 1735, for pul⯑ling down and rebuilding it. It is famous for the Danes having landed here, when they came up the Trent.

Paſſing the Trent by a Ferry, you land in the Iſle of Axholm, which is environ'd by the Trent and the Dun. Littleborough is the Agelocum or Segelocum of the Romans, a ſmall Village Three Miles above Gainſburgh, juſt upon the Edge of the Water, and in a Nook. It ſeems only to have been environ'd with a Ditch, and was of a ſquare Form. The Water ran quite round it; for to the Weſt, where White's-bridge is, a watry Valley hems it in; ſo that it was ſufficiently ſtrong. The Church ſtands upon the higheſt Ground. The Trent has waſh'd away Part of the Eaſtern Side of the Town. Foundations and Pavements are viſible in the Bank. Here, an Urn, with the Coin of Domitian, was found; and great Numbers of Coins have been taken up in ploughing and digging, which they call Swine-pennies, becauſe thoſe Creatures ſometimes rout them up, and the In⯑habitants take little Care to preſerve them. Mr. Ella, Vicar of Rampton hard by, has collected ſeveral, and ſome valuable.

In 1718. Two Altars, handſomely moulded, of coarſe Grit-ſtone, were dug up, which are ſet as Piers in a Wall on the Side of the Steps, which lead from the River to the Inn. Many very ſmall Coins, like flatted Peas, call'd Mites, are alſo found. Mr. Hardy has a large Urn, with a Female Face on the Outſide.

[10]In this Field, near White's-bridge, are great Foun⯑dations of Buildings. Coins are often found at the loweſt Edge of the Water, when the Tide is gone off, and in dry Seaſons. On the Eaſt Side of the River has been a Camp.

By Tilbridge-lane, upon the Top of the Heath, is a Spring, which, according to the vulgar Report, flows and ebbs with the Trent, tho' at Five Miles Diſtance. The like is ſaid of ſeveral others here⯑about.

Ten Miles from Lincoln Northward is Spittle, all the Way to which Place are Milliary Stones. 'Tis very pleaſant Riding, being wholly Champaign or Heath. Of theſe Stones, I believe, ſome are Ro⯑man, others later Croſſes to ſupply their Place. This was, no doubt, a Manſion, becauſe hard by a little Beck runs thro' it. Here is an Hoſpital, ſaid to be founded in the Year 1308. There are great Foun⯑dations all around, ſome of which perhaps are Ro⯑man. At preſent the Village conſiſts of Two Farm-houſes, a Chapel, an Inn, and a Seſſions-houſe. Upon the latter, is this Inſcription:

That is,

To the Left is Normanby, where the laſt but one Duke of Bucks was born, and whence he aſſum'd his Title of Marquis.

Half a Mile Eaſt of the preſent Wintringham, ſtood the old Roman Town, now a Common, bounded by the Marſhes upon the Humber. The City was plough'd up of late Years, and many An⯑tiquities found.

[11]The preſent Wintringham is a dirty poor Place, but ſtill a Corporation, and the Mayor is choſen only out of one Street next the old Town, where was a Chapel. The Bell of it now hangs in a wooden Frame by the Pillory. Here is a vaſt Jawbone or Rib of a Whale, which has remain'd Time out of Mind.

As the Middle of the Country is all hilly, and the Weſt Side low, ſo the Eaſt Side is the richeſt, moſt fruitful, and beſt cultivated, of any County in Eng⯑land, ſo far from London. One Part is all Fen or Marſh Grounds, and extends itſelf South to the Iſle of Ely. And here it is that ſo vaſt a Quantity of Sheep are fed, as makes this County and that of Lei⯑ceſter an inexhauſtible Fountain of Wool for all the manufacturing Counties in England, as before ob⯑ſerv'd.

There are ſome good Towns on the Sea-coaſt, but I include not Barton, which ſtands on the Hum⯑ber, as one of them, being a ſtraggling mean Town, noted for nothing but an ill-favoured dangerous Paſ⯑ſage, or Ferry, over the Humber to Hull; where, in an open Boat, in which we had about 15 Horſes, and 10 or 12 Cows, mingled with about 17 or 18 Paſſengers, we were about 4 Hours toſs'd about on the Humber, before we could get into the Harbour at Hull.

Well may the Humber take its Name from the Noiſe it makes; for in a high Wind it is incredibly great and terrible, like the Craſh and Daſhing toge⯑ther of Ships.

Paſſing over Whitton Brook, a Roman Road goes directly to Aukborough, by that People call'd Aquis. Their Camp is now call'd Counteſs-cloſe, from a Counteſs of Warwick, who, they ſay, liv'd there, at leaſt own'd the Eſtate. The Roman Caſtle is ſquare, 300 Feet each Side, very conveniently plac'd in the North-weſt Angle of Lincolnſhire, as a Watch⯑tower [12] over all Nottinghamſhire and Yorkſhire. The Church is of good Stone, and has a ſquare Tower; but the Choir is ruinous, and ſeparated from the reſt of the Church by a wooden Partition. Here are numerous Reliques of the Deluge, as Sea-ſhells, ſub⯑terraneous Trees, &c.

In a ſquare Plot, call'd The Green, is a round Labyrinth nam'd Julian's Bower, probably from the warlike Games in Uſe among the Roman and Britiſh Youth, call'd Ludi Trojani, and ſaid by Virgil to be firſt introduc'd into Italy by Iulus the Son of Aeneas. And the Boys, to this Day, divert themſelves with running in it one after another, and eluding their Play-fellows by their intricate Mazes. It ſeems that our Tournaments, ſo much in Faſhion till Queen Elizabeth's Time, are Remainders of theſe antient Diverſions.

Burton makes a pretty Proſpect, has ſeveral Mills, and the Houſes are pleaſantly intermix'd with Trees. There are alſo Two Churches, one of which is ſo low in reſpect of the Precipice under which it ſtands, that a Perſon may almoſt leap from thence upon the Steeple.

At Barrow is a Britiſh Temple, vulgarly call'd a Caſtle.

A little Eaſtward hence is Thornton College, a great Abbey founded by William le Gros, Earl of Albemarle, in the Year 1139. The Gatehouſe is very perfect, being a vaſt Tower or Caſtle of great Strength both for Offence and Defence. Before it is a large Ditch, acroſs which is laid a Bridge with Walls on each Hand, and Arches which ſupport a broad Bat⯑tlement to keep off the Enemy. Before it are Two round Towers. There was a Portcullis at the great Gate, and behind it another Gate of Oak. Over the Gate are Three old clumſy Statues in the ordi⯑nary Niches; a Woman ſeeming a Queen, or the Virgin Mary; to the Right a Man with a Lamb, [13] probably St. John Baptiſt; and to the Left a Biſhop, or Abbat, with a Croſier. Upon taking down an old Wall, they found a Man with a Candleſtick, Table, and Book, who was ſuppoſed to have been immur'd. The whole Monaſtery was encompaſſed by a deep Ditch, and high Rampart, to ſecure the Religious from Robbers becauſe near the Sea.

A Mile Eaſt of Thornton are the Ruins of another great Caſtle call'd Kelingholme.

In Goſwel Pariſh Northward, is Burham, once a Chapel, which belong'd to the Monaſtery, now a Farm-houſe.

In the ſame Pariſh near the Humber is Vere-court, which belong'd to the antient Family of that Name.

The Land hereabout is good and well-wooded, and many Roman Coins are found.

Two Miles Weſt of Thornton are the Ruins of a great Roman Camp, call'd Yarborough, which ſurveys the whole Hundred denominated from it. Mr. How⯑ſon of Kenington, which is hard by, has Pecks of Roman Coins found here.

Grimſby lies alſo on the Humber, but lower down towards the Ocean. It is a Mayor-town and Sea⯑port. But its Harbour is not very ſafe for Ships to ride in, as appeared at the Time of the great Storm in 1703. when all the Ships in that Road were dri⯑ven from their Anchors, and moſt of them loſt. Here is a very large ſumptuous Church.

We took the Round of the Sea-coaſt from hence Southward, all the Way to Boſton, and paſs'd thro' Saltfleet, Burgh, and Wainfleet, beſides ſeveral Vil⯑lages lying on the Sea-ſide. The Two firſt are but inconſiderable Market-towns, but Wainfleet is a well-compacted Town and neat, tho' ſituated in the Fens. 'Tis noted for a fine Free-ſchool, and giving an Addition to the Name of the Founder of it, who was call'd William of Wainfleet, afterwards Biſhop of Wincheſter, and who founded alſo Win⯑cheſter College.

[14]The River Witham croſſes the County from Lin⯑coln to Boſton, where it diſembogues: at the Source of it is a little River of the ſame Name.

Between this River and the Sea-coaſt North-eaſt, the ſeveral inland Towns of Bolinbroke, famous for giving Birth and Title to King Henry IV. alſo Title to Mr. Secretary St. John, one of the greateſt Ge⯑nius's of the Age, tho' unhappy in ſome of his Politics; Spilſby, Horncaſtle, and Tatterſal, on the South. About the Middle of this Diviſion made by the Witham, lie Stanton, Market-raſen, Louth, and Binbroke; and higher up Northward, ſtand Kirton, Glandſord, Brigs and Caſter.

Spilſby is a pretty good Town, and has a well-frequented Market.

Horncaſtle is almoſt ſurrounded with Water, and is a large well-built Town. But the reſt are incon⯑ſiderable except Louth and Caſter; the firſt has Two weekly conſiderable Markets, and is famous for a fine Spire Steeple, as high as that of Grantham.

Caſter is the ancient Durobrivis, tho' Dornford retains ſomewhat of the old Name, where the Her⯑men-ſtreet croſs'd the River by a Bridge of Braſs, ac⯑cording to the Vulgar. At Cheſterton is a large Tract of Ground, call'd The Caſtle-field, with a Ditch and Rampart around it. The Roman Road runs directly thro' it, and ſtill retains its high Ridge. Beyond the River it extends for ſome Space upon the Meadow along the Bank; then forms an Angle, and proceeds full North. Caſter is above half a Mile from it, upon the Hill. A Part of the Foundation of the Wall of the old Roman Camp is viſible in the Street to the North-weſt Corner of the Church, un⯑der the Wall of the Houſe, where the Miniſter lives. It may be known by the great Strength of the Mor⯑ter, built of the white Slab-ſtone of the Country. Underneath this lay the City; for below the Church⯑yard [15] the Ground is full of Foundations and Mo⯑ſaics.

In the Boot Alehouſe Cellar is a Piece of a Pave⯑ment; as are many at Mr. Wright's, and in a Gar⯑den an intire one; beſides great Numbers of Roman Coins, in the Poſſeſſion of Monſ. Baillardeau. In the plough'd Fields between the Town and the Ri⯑ver, toward Fordgreen, is a Tract which runs quite thro', whereon Corn grows very ſcantily. This is nothing but a Road laid with a deep Bed of Gravel, tho' the ſuperſtitious Country-people believe it was curſed by the Lady Kyneburg, the Abbeſs who built a religious Houſe, which ſtood Eaſtward of the Church, and ſome Part of which ſtill remains. This Meadow is call'd Norman-gate (or more properly, Dorman-gate) Field, from the Town, whoſe Foun⯑dations are found all about this Place; and alſo innumerable Coins, call'd Dorman-pence. Part of this is Berryſtead, where Antiquities are daily dug up. Mill-field ſtands higher toward Peterbo⯑rough, where Moſaic Pavements, &c. are found, and ſeems to have been a little Citadel belonging to the Town.

Part of the Church is an antique Building, but new-modell'd. Upon a Stone over the Choir-door is a curious Inſcription, importing that the Church was conſecrated on the 17th of April 1114. The Steeple ſtands in the Middle of the Church. The Tower is a fine Piece of antient Architecture with ſemicircular Arches. The ſquare Well by the Porch is Roman, ſurrounded with hewn Stone; and tho' it ſtands on a Hill, the Water is very high. At the Eaſt-end of the Church is a very old Croſs.

A little higher up the River, near Wansford Bridge, a Gold Britiſh Coin was found, which is in the Poſ⯑ſeſſion of Mr. Maurice Johnſon, an eminent Coun⯑ſellor.

[16]The Fen Country begins about Wainfleet, which is within Twenty Miles of Grimſby, and extends it⯑ſelf to the Iſle of Ely South, and to the Grounds oppoſite to Lynn-regis in Norfolk Eaſt.

This Part is indeed very properly called Holland; for 'tis a flat, level, and often drowned Country, like the Province of the ſame Name in the Low Countries; inſomuch that the very Ditches are navigable, and the People paſs from Town to Town in Boats, as they do there. Here we had the uncouth Muſick of the Bittern, a Bird formerly counted ominous and preſaging, and which, as ſome ſay, thruſts its Bill into a Reed, and others into a Bog, and then gives the dull, heavy Groan or Sound, like a Sigh; which is ſo loud, that 'tis heard Two or Three Miles Diſtance as ſome People ſay.

Here we firſt ſaw Boſton, and making towards it, found it a Sea-port Town, at the Mouth of the Wi⯑tham.

The Tower is the higheſt and nobleſt in Europe, being 100 Yards, and is ſeen plainly 40 Miles round this level Country, and farther by Sea. The Octa⯑gon Lantern on the Top is very beautiful, and ad⯑mirable for the Thinneſs of the Stone-work. Mari⯑ners find it particularly uſeful to guide them into this Port, and even into the Mouth of the River Ouſe; for in clear Weather 'tis ſeen quite out at Sea to the Entrance of thoſe Chanels, which they call Lynn Deeps, and Boſton Deeps, which are as difficult Places as moſt upon the Eaſtern Shore of Britain. This is particularly taken Notice of in an Act paſſed in the Reign of the late Queen Anne, for enabling Aſſeſſ⯑ments to be made for Repairing and keeping in Repair this Church: in the Preamble to which it is de⯑ſcribed, as it deſerves, as an antient, well-built Fa⯑brick; that the Tower thereof is very high, and an uſeful Sea-mark; and that it being ſituate near the Haven, a great Sum is neceſſary yearly to be raiſed, [17] to preſerve it from a violent, conſtantly ebbing and flowing Water.

There was a prodigious Clock-Bell which could be heard Six or Seven Miles round; it had many old Verſes round it, but Anno 1710. was knocked in Pieces, and the Inſcription not taken.

Twenty Yards from the Foundation of this Tower runs the rapid Witham, thro' a wooden Bridge.

This Town abounded with religious Houſes, whoſe Lands King Henry VIII. gave to the Town.

Queen Mary I. was a great Benefactreſs likewiſe to it, and gave them Lands called Erection Lands, to pay a Vicar, Lecturer, and Two Schoolmaſters.

The Church is reckon'd the largeſt Pariſh-church without croſs Ayles, in the Univerſe; 'tis 100 Feet wide, and 300 long within the Walls. The Roof is handſomely ceiled with Iriſh Oak, ſupported by 24 tall and ſlender Pillars.

Formerly the Town laboured under the Want of freſh Water, which was a great Diſcouragement to Merchants and others ſettling there. To remedy which Inconvenience, John Smyth of Heath, in the County of York, Eſq procur'd an Act of Parliament which paſſed in the Reign of Queen Anne, to incloſe Two Acres of the great Common, called The Weſt Fen, for a Pond or Ciſtern, and to erect a Water-houſe and Mill upon the ſaid Common, and other proper Edifices, and to lay Pipes from the Pond for ſupplying the Town.

The Town is large, populous, and well-built, full of Merchants, and has a good Share of foreign Trade, as well as Lynn. 'Tis built on both Sides of the River Witham. It is a Corporation, governed by a Mayor, and 12 Aldermen. It has two Markets weekly, and a commodious Haven. Here is held one of thoſe annual Fairs, which preſerve the antient Title of a Mart, whereof I remember only Four in England of any conſiderable Note, viz. Lynn, Gainſburgh, [18] Beverly, and Boſton. Its Trade of late Years has not increaſed.

Eaſt of Boſton was a Chapel called Hiptoft, and in the Town a Church dedicated to St. John, but both demoliſh'd. Queen Elizabeth gave the Corporation a Court of Admiralty over all the Sea-coaſts here⯑abouts.

The Country round this Place is all Fen and Marſh Grounds, the Land is very rich, and feeds prodigious Numbers of large Sheep, and alſo Oxen of the largeſt Size, the beſt of which are driven to London Market; and from this Part, as alſo from the Downs or Heath above-mentioned, comes, as I have before noted, a great Part of the Wool, known, as a cre⯑ditable Diſtinction, becauſe of its Fineneſs, by the Name of Lincolnſhire Wool; which is ſent in great Quantities into Norfolk and Suffolk, for the Manu⯑facturers of thoſe Countries, and indeed to ſeveral other of the trading Counties in England.

Theſe Fens are very conſiderable for their Extent; for they reach in Length, in ſome Places, 50 Miles, and in Breadth above 30: and as they are ſo level, that there is no Interruption to the Sight, any Build⯑ing of extraordinary Height is ſeen a long Way. For Example, Boſton Steeple is ſeen upon Lincoln Heath, near 30 Miles; Peterborough and Ely Min⯑ſters are ſeen almoſt thoughout the whole Level; ſo are the Spires of Lynn, Whittleſea, and Crowland, ſeen at a very great Diſtance, which adds ſome Beauty to the Country.

From Boſton we came on thro' the Fen Country to Holbech, a little Market-town, and ſo on to Spald⯑ing, which is another Sea-port in the Level, but ſtanding far within the Land on the River Welland, which almoſt incloſes it. Here was nothing very remarkable to be ſeen as to Antiquity, but the Ruins of an old Monaſtery, of which the Monaſticon gives a particular Deſcription. There is a Bridge [19] over the Welland, and Veſſels of about 50 or 60 Tons may come up to the Town; and that is ſuffi⯑cient for the Trade of Spalding, which is chiefly in Corn and Coal.

We muſt not paſs by Crowland, another Place of great religious Antiquity, here being once a famous Monaſtery, the Remains of which are ſtill to be ſeen. The Monks of Crowland were eminent in Hiſtory, and a great many Stories are told of the Devils of Crowland alſo, and what Converſation they had with the Monks, which Tales are more out of Date now, than they were formerly.

The Abbey was founded 1000 Years ago by Athel⯑bald King of Mercia, in the midſt of Bogs and Thorns, in Honour of his Chaplain Guthlac, who choſe this Place to mortify in. The Foundation is laid on Piles of Wood, ſeveral of which have been found in tearing up the Ruins of the Eaſtern Part of the Church; for what remains is only Part of the Weſt⯑end, and of that only one Corner in tolerable Re⯑pair, which is at preſent their Pariſh-church. In the Middle of the Croſs ſtood once a lofty Tower, and in it was a remarkably fine Ring of Bells; the firſt, as is ſaid in the County. The Roof, which was of Iriſh Oak finely carv'd and gilt, fell down about 40 Years ago, and Pieces of it are to be found in almoſt every Houſe. People at Pleaſure dig up the monumental Stones for private Uſe, and what are left in the Pave⯑ment are cover'd over with Shrubs. It was made a Gariſon in the late Civil Wars, and the Soldiers deſtroy'd the painted Glaſs in it. All the Eaſtern Part of the Body of the Church is intirely raz'd to the Foundation. The monaſtick Buildings, Cloi⯑ſters, Hall, Abbat's Lodgings, are abſolutely demo⯑liſh'd. In the North-weſt Corner of the Church ſtands a ſtrong Tower, with a very obtuſe Spire, and a pleaſant Ring of ſmall Bells. Over the Weſt Gate are the Images of divers Kings, Abbats, &c. [20] among the reſt, Guthlac with a Whip and Knife, his uſual Symbols.

Not far from the Abbey, is the Remnant of a little Stone Cottage, called Anchor-church-houſe, where was a Chapel, in which St. Guthlac was bury'd, and where he lived a Hermit.

Over-againſt the Weſt-end of the Abbey, is the famous triangular Bridge, hardly to be equalled in Britain, if in Europe. It being too ſteep for Horſes and Carriages to go over, they paſs under it. 'Tis formed on Three Segments of a Circle meeting in one Point; and each Baſe, they ſay, ſtands in a dif⯑ferent County. Here meet the Rivers Nyne and Welland. So that the Bridge, being fixed at the very Point where they join, ſtands upon a Centre in the Middle of the united Waters; and then parting into Two Bridges, lands you one to the Right on Thorney, and one to the Left upon Holland. On one Side fits an Image of King Athelbald, Founder of Crow⯑land-Abbey, with a Globe in his Hand.

The Town of Spalding is not large, but pretty well built and well inhabited, and is a handſome and large Market-town; but for the Healthineſs or Plea⯑ſantneſs of it, I have no more to ſay, than that I was very glad when I got out of it, as well as out of the reſt of the Fen Country; for 'tis a horrid Air for a Stranger to breathe in.

The Hiſtory of the Draining theſe Fens, by a Set of Gentlemen, called the Adventurers; the ſeveral Laws for ſecuring and preſerving the Banks, and di⯑viding the Lands; how they were by the extraordi⯑nary Conflux of Waters from all the Inland Coun⯑ties of England frequently overflowed, and ſome⯑times lay under Water moſt Part of the Year; how all the Waters in this Part of England, which do not run into the Thames, the Trent, or the Severn, fall together into theſe low Grounds, and empty themſelves into the Sea by thoſe Drains, as thro' a [21] Sink; and how by the Skill of theſe Adventurers, and at a prodigious Expence, they have cut new Chanels, and even whole Rivers, with particular Drains from one River to another, to carry off the great Flux of Waters, when Floods or Freſhes come down either on one Side or on the other; and how, notwith⯑ſtanding all that Hands could do, or Art contrive, yet ſometimes the Waters do ſtill prevail, the Banks break, and whole Levels are overflowed together; All this, and much more that might be ſaid on ſo co⯑pious a Subject, tho' it would be very uſeful to have it fully and geographically deſcrib'd, yet it would take up ſo much Room, that I cannot think of en⯑tering any farther into it, than juſt to mention, That an Act of Parliament lately paſſed to enable the Adventurers, Owners, and Proprietors of the taxable Lands, and the Owners and Proprietors of the free Lands in Deeping Fen, Pinchbeck, and Spalding South Fen, Therlby Fen, Bourn South Fen, and Croyland Fen, &c. in the County of Lincoln, containing in the Whole about 30,000 Acres, to raiſe a competent Sum for the effectual Draining and future Preſervation of all the ſaid Fens, accord⯑ing to their Agreement in that behalf, dated Febr. 23.1737, and to carry the ſaid Agreement into Execution.

We ſhall only obſerve further, that Sir John Heath⯑cote, Bart. hath made ſo good a Progreſs in draining 366 Acres of the Therlby Fen Paſtures, belonging to him, that he is particularly exempted from paying to⯑ward the Sums levied upon others by this Act.

Theſe Fens of Lincolnſhire are of the ſame Kind with, and contiguous to, thoſe already mentioned in the Iſle of Ely, in the Counties of Cambridge and Huntingdon; and here, as well as there, we ſee pro⯑digious Numbers of Cattle, which are fed up to an extraordinary Size by the Richneſs of the Soil.

Here are alſo an infinite Number of Wild-Fowl, ſuch as Duck and Mallard, Teal and Wigeon, Brand-Geeſe, [22] Wild-Geeſe, &c. For the taking of the four firſt Kinds, here are a great many Decoys, from all which the vaſt Number of Fowls they take, are ſent up to London.

The Accounts which the Country People give of the Numbers they ſometimes take, are ſuch, that one ſcarce dares report it from them. But this I can ſay, of my certain Knowlege, that ſome of theſe Decoys are of ſo great an Extent, and take ſuch great Num⯑bers of Fowl, that they are let from 100l. to 3, 4, and 500l. a Year Rent.

The Art of taking the Fowls, and eſpeciaally of Breeding up a Set of Creatures, called Decoy-Ducks, to intice and then betray their Fellow-Ducks into the ſeveral Decoys, is very ingenious; and tho' 'tis not very eaſy to deſcribe it, I will give it in as few Words as I can.

The Decoy-Ducks are hatched and bred up in the Decoy Ponds; in which are certain Places where they are conſtantly fed, and being made tame, they are uſed to come to the Decoy-Man's Hand for their Food.

When they fly abroad, it is not known whither they go, but ſome conjecture they fly quite over into Hol⯑land and Germany; where they meet with others of their own Kind, and ſorting with them, they, by ſome Art, unknown to us, draw together a vaſt Number of the Fowls, and, in a Word, kidnap them from their own Country; for being once brought out of their Knowlege, they follow the Decoys, as a Dog follows the Sportſman; and 'tis frequent to ſee theſe ſubtle Creatures return with a vaſt Flight of Fowls along with them, after they have been ab⯑ſent ſeveral Weeks together.

When they have brought them over, the firſt Thing they do is to ſettle with them in the Ponds, to which the Decoy-Ducks belong. Here they chatter and gabble to them in their own Language, [23] as if they were telling them, that here they ſhould ſoon ſee how well they ſhould live.

When the Decoy-Men perceive they are come, and that they are gathering and increaſing, they go ſecretly to the Pond's Side, under the Cover which they have made with Reeds, ſo that they cannot be ſeen, where they throw over the Reeds Handfuls of Corn, in ſuch ſhallow Places, as the Decoy-Ducks are uſually fed, and whither they are ſure to come for it, and to bring their new Gueſts with them for their Entertainment.

This they do for two or three Days together, and no Harm follows to the poor Strangers, till throwing in this Bait one time in an open wide Place, an⯑other time in another wide Place, the third time it is thrown in a narrower Place; where the Trees, which hang over the Water and the Banks, ſtand cloſer together; and then in another yet narrower, where the ſaid Trees are over-head like an Arbour, tho' at a good Height from the Water.

Here the Boughs are ſo artfully managed, that a large Net is ſpread near the Tops of the Trees among the Branches, and faſtened to Hoops which reach from Side to Side. This is ſo high, and ſo wide, and the Room is ſo much below, and the Water ſo open, that the Fowls do not perceive the Net above them.

Here the Decoy-Man keeping unſeen, behind the Hedges of Reeds, which are made perfectly cloſe, goes forward, throwing Corn over the Reeds into the Water. The Decoy-Ducks greedily fall upon it, and, calling their foreign Gueſts, ſeem to tell them, that now they may find, how well the Ducks live in England; ſo inviting, or rather wheedling them forward, 'till by degrees they are all gotten under the Arch or Sweep of the Net, which is on the Trees, and which by degrees, imperceptibly to them, de⯑clines lower and lower, and alſo narrower and nar⯑rower, [24] till at the farther End it comes to a Point like a Purſe; though this farther End is quite out of Sight, and perhaps two or three hundred Yards from the firſt Entrance.

When the whole Flight of Ducks are thus gree⯑dily following the Decoys, and feeding plentifully as they go; and the Decoy-Man ſees they are all ſo far within the Arch of the Net, as not to be able to eſcape, on a ſudden a Dog, which till then keeps cloſe by him, and which is perfectly taught his Buſi⯑neſs, ruſhes from behind the Reeds, and jumps into the Water, ſwimming directly after the Ducks, and barks as he ſwims.

Immediately the frighted Ducks riſe upon the Wing to make their Eſcape; but are beaten down again by the arched Net, which is over their Heads. Being then forced into the Water, they neceſſarily ſwim forward, for fear of the Dog; and thus they croud on, 'till by Degrees the Net growing lower and narrower, they are hurried to the very farther End, where another Decoy-Man ſtands ready to receive them, and who takes them out alive with his Hands.

As for the Traitors, that drew the poor Ducks into this Snare, they are taught to riſe but a little Way, and ſo not reaching to the Net, they fly back to the Ponds, and make their Eſcape; or elſe, being uſed to the Decoy-Man, they go to him fearleſs, and are taken out as the reſt; but inſtead of being killed with them, are ſtrok'd, made much of, and put into a little Pond juſt by him, and plentifully fed for their Services.

There are many Particulars in the managing and draining theſe Levels, throwing off the Water by Mills and Engines, and cultivating the Grounds in an unuſual manner, which would be very uſeful to be deſcribed; but the needful Brevity of this Work, will not admit of it: yet ſomething of it may be touched upon.

• 1. That here are ſome wonderful Engines for throwing up Water, and ſuch as are not to be ſeen any-where elſe; whereof one in particular threw up (as they aſſured us) 1200 Tons of Water in half an Hour, and goes by Wind-Sails, 12 Wings or Sails to a Mill.
• 2. Here are the greateſt Improvements by Plant⯑ing of Hemp, that, I think, are to be ſeen in England; particularly on the Norfolk and Cam⯑bridge Sides of the Fens, as about Wiſbech, Wells, and ſeveral other Places, where we ſaw many hundred Acres of Ground bearing great Crops of Hemp.
• 3. Here is a particular Trade carried on with London, which is no-where elſe practiſed in the whole Kingdom, that I have met with, or heard of, viz. For carrying Fiſh alive by Land-Car⯑riage; this they do by carrying great Buts filled with Water in Waggons, as the Carriers draw other Goods. The Buts have a little ſquare Flap, inſtead of a Bung, about 10, 12, or 14 Inches ſquare, which, being opened, gives Air to the Fiſh: and every Night, when they come to the Inn, they draw off the Water, and let more freſh and ſweet Water run into them again. In theſe Carriages they chiefly carry Tench and Pike, Pearch and Eels, but eſpecially the two former, of which here are ſome of the largeſt in England.

Whittleſea and Ramſey Meres are Two Lakes, made by the River Nyne, which runs through them; the firſt is between Five and Six Miles long, and Three Miles broad, and is indeed full of excellent Fiſh for this Trade.

The Hermen-ſtreet goes in a ſtrait Line thro' great and little Stukely, antiently written Styvecle, which Name it acquir'd from its ſtiff clay Soil. In Great Stukely Church is a Font of a very antique Make. [26] The Hermen-ſtreet, after this, becomes notorious by the Name of Stangate. Near Stilton ſome Parts ap⯑pear ſtill pav'd with Stone, which ſtrengthens the Conjecture, that the Name Stangate was given it from thence. It traverſes great Woods between the Two Saltries, where was a religious Foundation of Simon Silvanect, the ſecond Earl of Huntingdon and Northampton; among the Ruins of which lie bu⯑ried Robert Brus, Lord of Anandale in Scotland, and of Cleveland in England, with Iſabel his Con⯑ſort, from whom the Scotiſh Branch of our Royal Family is deſcended. Near the Road Side Roman Urns have been dug up.

Half a Mile out of the Road is the Seat of Sir Robert Cotton, the learned Friend of the great Cam⯑den, where he had a choice Collection of Roman In⯑ſcriptions from all Parts of the Kingdom. The Houſe was built in a magnificent manner of hewn Stone; but now lies in diſmal Ruins. By it is a moſt beautiful Church, with a Tower; and in the Windows is fine painted Glaſs. From thoſe Woods above-mention'd, your Eye commands the whole Level of the Fens, particularly Whitleſey-mere, where the Gentry have little Veſſels to ſail in for Pleaſure. Sir Robert Cotton, digging the Foundation of a Houſe on the Hill whence you enjoy this Proſpect, found the Skeleton of a Fiſh, 12 Feet long.

A little to the Right lies Ramſey, famed for a rich Abbey; little of which is now left, but a Part of the old Gate-houſe. In the Yard I ſaw a ne⯑glected Statue of the Founder Alwyn, who was called Alderman of all England, and was Couſin to King Edgar, and Son of Duke Athelſtan, ſurnamed Half-King. This is one of the moſt antient Pieces of Engliſh Sculpture which we know of. The Keys and ragged Staff in his Hand denote his Office. The Abbey was dedicated to St. Dunſtan of Canter⯑bury, and St. Oſwald of York, and was a rich Foun⯑dation, [27] and at the Diſſolution valued at 1716l. per Annum. for the Maintenance of 60 Monks. In the Year 1721. a great Quantity of Roman Coins were found at Ramſey; which were believed to be hid there by the Monks upon ſome Inroad of the Danes.

At every Mile from Grantham to Stangate are Stones ſet up by Mr. Boulter, which he deſign'd to have carry'd on to London, for the general Benefit.

All the Country between Huntingdon River and Peterborough River, is Clay, Sand, and Gravel; but beyond that, to the Humber, Stone.

At Gunworth Ferry over Peterborough River is a Bridge, a few Years ago erected, where Boats pay Toll. The People of Peterborough were a good while averſe to having their River made navigable, out of an abſurd Notion, that it would ſpoil their Trade. But they begin to be better inform'd, or, as I may ſay, to have more Wit, on the Progreſs made in that Navigation, which I ſhall mention more par⯑ticularly by-and-by, when I come to Oundle.

From the Fens, longing to be delivered from Fogs, and ſtagnate Air, and Water of the Colour of brewed Ale, like the Rivers of the Peak, we firſt ſet Foot on dry Land, as I called it, at Peterborough.

But before we enter it, we muſt not omit to take ſome Notice of Foderinghay Caſtle, ſituate on a Branch of the Nyne, famous for the Impriſonment and Decollation of the unfortunate Mary Queen of Scots. It ſeems to have been very ſtrong, and it had a high Mount or Keep, inviron'd with a deep Ditch. 'Tis moſtly demoliſh'd, and all the Materials carry'd off; ſome ſay it was deſtroy'd by Order of King James I. in Revenge of his Mother's Sufferings. They pretended to ſhew me here the Ruins of the Hall, where that Princeſs was beheaded. It was the Seat of Edmund of Langley, Duke of York, whoſe Body was bury'd in the Collegiate Church here; a [28] very neat Building founded by Edward Duke of York, likewiſe interred here. The Chancel in which they were bury'd, was intirely demoliſhed at the Sup⯑preſſion; but theſe Monuments were reſtored by Queen Elizabeth. The Church Windows are filled with handſome painted Glaſs, ſav'd by a Sum of Money to the Soldiery in the late Civil War, and repreſent St. Denys, St. Guthlac, Abp. Scrope, &c.

Peterborough ſtands in Northamptonſhire, and is a little City of great Antiquity ſeated on the River Nyne, and indeed 'tis the leaſt in England; for Bath, or Wells, or Ely, or Carliſle, are all much big⯑ger; yet Peterborough is no contemptible Place nei⯑ther. Here are ſome good Houſes, a handſome Mar⯑ket-place, and the Streets are fair and well-built; but the Glory of Peterborough is the Cathedral, which is truly fine and beautiful, and the nobleſt Piece of Gothick Building in England; but it appears to be more modern, than the Story of raiſing this Pile implies, which was near 1050 Years ago. It wants only, to make it complete, a fine Tower Steeple, and Spire on the Top of it. A Mayor, Aldermen, and Recorder, are the chief Magiſtrates here.

In this Church was buried the Body of the un⯑happy Mary Queen of Scots above-mentioned, but it was afterwards removed by King James I. her Son, into Weſtminſter-Abbey, where a Monu⯑ment is erected for her, in King Henry VIIth's Chapel; tho' ſome do not ſtick to tell us, that tho' the Monument was erected, the Body was never remov'd.

Here alſo lies interred Catharine of Spain, another unhappy Queen, and the divorc'd Wife of King Henry VIII. and Mother to Queen Mary I. Her Monument is not very magnificent, but 'tis far from mean. Here is an old decayed Monument of Biſhop Wulfer, the Founder of the Church; but this Church has ſo often been burnt and demoliſhed ſince tha [...] [29] Time, that 'tis doubtful, whether the Monument be authentick or not.

In the Cathedral is the Figure of one Scarlet, a Sexton, who buried the above named Two Queens, one 50 Years after the other, and under it the fol⯑lowing Inſcription:

He died at 95 Years old.

The Chapel here, called St. Mary's, is a very cu⯑rious Building, tho' now not in Uſe. The Choir has been often repaired and beautify'd, and is now very fine; but the Weſt End, or great Gate, is a Prodigy for Beauty and Variety. 'Tis remarkable, that as this Church, when a Monaſtery, was famous for its great Revenues, ſo now, as reduced, 'tis one of the pooreſt Biſhopricks in England.

In the Year 1720. at Thorp, the Seat of Sir Francis St. John, by Peterborough, a Moſaick Pavement was found. This was undoubtedly a Villa of ſome Roman of Diſtinction. In the Garden are ſome fine antique Marble Statues, which ſuffer more from the Wea⯑ther than from Age. In the Middle is a Livia of a Coloſſean Proportion: in the Four Quarters, Diana, Amphion, an Orator, and a Gladiator: upon the Terrace, an admirable Hercules killing the Hydra: in the Court, Two Equeſtrian Figures in Copper, King Henry IV. of France, and Don John of Auſtria. Over moſt of the Doors of the Houſe, are placed Buſtoes of Baſſianus, Caracalla, and others. Theſe Antiquities were of the Arundel Collection.

[30]As great Part of Lincolnſhire, which is a vaſtly extended County, remained yet unſeen by me, I was obliged to turn North from Peterborough, and take a View of the Fens again, tho' we kept them at ſome Diſtance too. Here we paſs'd the Welland at Mar⯑ket Deeping, an old, ill-built and dirty Town. Then we went thro' Bourn to Folkingham, near which we ſaw two Pieces of decay'd Magnificence; one was the old demoliſh'd Monaſtery of Sempringham, the Seat of the Gilbertine Nuns, famous for Auſterity; and the other was the antient Houſe of the Lord Clinton, Queen Elizabeth's Admiral, where that great and noble Perſon once lived in the utmoſt Splendor. The Houſe, tho' in its full Decay, ſhews what it has been, and the Plaiſter of the Ceilings and Walls in ſome Rooms is ſo fine, ſo firm, and ſo intire, that they break it off in large Flakes, and it will bear Writing on with a Pencil or Steel Pen, like the Leaves of a Table-book. This Sort of Plai⯑ſter I have not ſeen any-where ſo prodigiouſly fine, except in the Palace of Noneſuch in Surrey, near Epſom, before it was demoliſhed by the Lord Berkley.

From hence we croſs'd Part of the great Heath mentioned before, and came into the high Road again at Ancaſter, a ſmall, but antient Roman Village, call'd Segeloci. It is full of Remnants of Antiquity; a ſufficient Teſtimony of which may be deduc'd from the Traffick which the Town's-people have for many Years carry'd on with the Sale of them. After a Shower the Schoolboys and Shepherds look for them on the Declivities, and never return empty.

The Town conſiſts of one Street, running North and South along the Road. There is a Spring at both Ends of the Town, which, no doubt, was the Reaſon for the Romans pitching it at this Place; for there is no more Water from hence to Lincoln.

On the Weſt Side of the Town is a Road, for⯑merly deſign'd for the Convenience of thoſe who [31] travelled when the Gates were ſhut. In the Church⯑yard are two Prieſts cut in Stone.

This muſt have been a populous Place, from the large Quarries about it, and the Rock lying a very little way beneath the Surface.

From Ancaſter we came to Grantham, famous for a very fine Church, and its Spire Steeple. The ge⯑neral Notion, that this Steeple ſtands leaning, is cer⯑tainly a vulgar Error: I had no Inſtrument indeed to judge it by, but, according to the ſtricteſt Obſerv⯑ation, I could not perceive it, or any thing like it, and am much of Opinion with that excellent Poet:

The chief Magiſtrate here is an Alderman, aſſiſted by Twelve Juſtices. This is a neat, pleaſant, well-built and populous Town, has a good Market, and the Inhabitants are ſaid to have a very good Trade, and to be generally rich.

It was certainly a Roman Town, and Remains of a Caſtle have been formerly dug up there. The Spire Steeple is 100 Yards high, and equalled only by an⯑other in this County at Louth, beſides the Tower of Boſton. Here were many Religious Houſes: Ruins of ſome of which ſtill remain. In one juſt by the Market-place, is a very pretty little Chapel or Ora⯑tory adorned with Imagery. Here is a good Free⯑ſchool, erected by Richard Fox, Biſhop of Wincheſtor; where Sir Iſaac Newton received the firſt Principles of Literature, under the famous William Walker, then Schoolmaſter. This Town lying on the great Northern Road is famous, as well as Stamford, for abundance of very good Inns, ſome of them fit to entertain Perſons of the greateſt Quality, and their Retinues, and it is a great Advantage to the Place.

Within a Mile of Grantham ſtands Belton, a late-built Houſe belonging to the Family of Brownlow, Lord Tyrconnel in Ireland, one of the moſt regular [32] and beautiful Seats in this County; adorned with curious Gardens, and a large Park. But I ſhould not omit to take ſome Notice, before I quit Lincoln⯑ſhire, of the Duke of Ancaſter's pleaſant Seat at Grimſthorpe. It is a handſome and commodious Houſe: the Park is large and beautiful; the Lawn there, whereon is an annual Horſe-race, is delightful. In the Middle of the Park ſtood Vaudy Abbey, founded Anno 1147, ſome ſmall Ruins of which are ſtill to be ſeen.

From a Hill, about a Mile beyond this Town North-weſt, being on the great York Road, we had a Proſpect again into the Vale of Bever, or Belvoir. which I mentioned before; and which ſpreads itſelf here into three Counties, to wit, Lincoln, Leiceſter, and Rutlandſhires: alſo here we had a diſtant View of Belvoir Caſtle, which, 'tis ſuppoſed, took its Name from the Situation, from whence there is ſo fine a Proſpect over the Country, that you ſee from the Hill into Lincoln, Nottingham, Derby, Leiceſter, Rutland, and Northamptonſhires. The Caſtle or Palace (for ſuch it now is) of Belvoir is the Seat of the noble Family of Manners, Dukes of Rutland, who have alſo a very noble Eſtate, equal to the Demeſnes of ſome Sovereign Princes, extending itſelf into Nottingham and Derbyſhires far and wide, and in which Eſtate they have an immenſe ſubter⯑ranean Treaſure, never to be exhauſted; I mean the Lead-mines and Coal-pits, of which I ſhall ſay more in their Place.

In the fine Gallery of this noble Seat are very an⯑tient and modern Family and other Pictures, parti⯑cularly the Original one of King Charles I. as he ſat at his Trial.

At Botteſworth, on the Edge of Lincolnſhire, we viſited the Tombs of the Manners noble Family, which are worth ſeeing.

[33]The other Towns which lie on the South-weſt of the Witham in this County, not already mentioned, are;

• 1. Beckingham, an inconſiderable little Place lying North of Grantham.
• 2. Dunnington, a good Market-town, noted for large Quantities of Hemp and Hemp Seed.
• 3. Seaford, ſituate in a Valley on a little River, which is ſo rapid, that its Streams never freeze. It has a good Market, and a long, ſquare Market-place facing Three Streets. And alſo,
• 4. Bourne, famous for the Inauguration of Edmund King of the Eaſt-Angles.

Turning Southward from hence we enter'd Rut⯑landſhire, remarkable for being the leaſt County in England, having but Two Market-towns in it, viz. Okeham and Uppingham.

Okeham ſtands in the rich Valley of Cathroſs. It has a Caſtle, in which the Aſſizes are held, an Hoſpi⯑tal for the Poor, and a Free-ſchool for the Education of Youth. 'Tis a Cuſtom in this Town, that when a Nobleman comes on Horſeback within its Pre⯑cincts, he is obliged to pay Homage of a Shoe from his Horſe, or to commute for it in Money.

Uppingham is a new well-built Town, ſtanding on a Hill; and has alſo an Hoſpital and Free-ſchool.

This County, tho' ſo ſmall, is famous for abund⯑ance of fine Seats of the Gentlemen, and ſome of firſt Rank; as particularly the Earls of Gainſ⯑borough and Winchelſea. The late Earl of Notting⯑ham, at a very great Expence, rebuilt the antient Seat of Burleigh on the Hill, near Oakham, and on the Edge of the Vale of Cathroſs. It would take up too much of my Room to deſcribe as I ought, this noble Houſe, with its curious Paintings, fine Library, and delightful Gardens. I can only ob⯑ſerve, that tho' there may be ſome ſumptuous Palaces [34] in England (which abounds with ſo many fine ones) that excel in this or that Particular; I do not know a Houſe in Britain, which excels all the reſt in ſo many Particulars.

I cannot help mentioning here, that I was drawn to make a Viſit, in my Journey, to the Reverend Mr. Edward Roberts of Glaſton, in this little County, purely for the ſake of his excellent Character; and we were received by him with great Courteſy. This Gentleman had a very ſmall Living in the County, the Income of which, with the Surplus of his Eſtate, he devoted to the Ne⯑ceſſitous; and of late Years had provided himſelf with all Sorts of Medicines from London, ſo that his Time was ſpent in relieving the Poor in a double Capacity, as a Divine and a Phyſician. He often refuſed Promotions in the Church, tho' his Rector⯑ſhip was accounted the pooreſt in the County; he diſapproved Pluralities, and always look'd with Love on his Pariſh, as his Family: but this excellent Clergyman died a few Months after we were there, in March 1739-40, univerſally lamented. His Brother, Thomas Roberts, Eſq died about Twelve Months before him, with as good a Character for a Lawyer, as this Gentleman had for a Divine; for he would give his Advice gratis, as well as his Practice, to all without Exception; and tho' a great Friend to the preſent Royal Family, would never accept of Place or Penſion, and never would interfere in Elections, which he thought ſhould always be left free, and uninfluenced.

From hence we came to St. Martins, and ſtopp'd at the George, out of Curioſity, becauſe it is reckoned one of the greateſt Inns in England, and thence pro⯑ceeded to Stamford. This Town is placed in a kind of an Angle of the County of Lincoln, juſt upon the Edge of Three Counties, viz. Lincoln, North⯑ampton, and Rutland: this Town boaſts greatly too [35] of its Antiquity, and indeed it has evident Marks of its having been a very great Place in former Days.

Hiſtory tells us it was burnt by the Danes above 1500 Years ago, being then a flouriſhing City: it was alſo once an Univerſity, and here are ſtill the Remains of Two Colleges, one called Blackhall, and the other Brazen Noſe; on the Gate whereof is a great Brazen Noſe, and a Ring through it, like that at Oxford; nor could it take this from Oxford, but Oxford from that, which is as old as Edward III. at the leaſt, while that at Oxford was not built before Henry VII. But the famous Camps, and Military Ways, which ſtill appear at and near this Town, are a more viſible Teſtimony of its having been a very antient Town, and that it was conſiderable in the Romans Time.

It is now a very fair, well-built, and wealthy Town, conſiſting of Six Pariſhes, including that of St. Martin in Stamford-baron; that is to ſay, in that Part of the Town which ſtands over the River, which, tho' it is not a Part of the Town, criti⯑cally ſpeaking, being not in the Liberty, and in an⯑other County, yet 'tis all called Stamford, and is rated with it in the Taxes.

The Government of this Town is by a Mayor and Aldermen, and not, as ſome write, by an Alder⯑man, and 12 Comburgeſſes.

They boaſt in this Town of very great Privileges, eſpecially to their Mayor; ſuch as being freed from the Sheriff's Juriſdiction, and from being impanelled on Juries out of the Town; to have the Return of all Writs, to be freed from all Lords-Lieutenants, and from their Muſters, and for having the Militia of the Town commanded by their own Officers, the Mayor being the King's Lord-Lieutenant, and im⯑mediately under his Majeſty's Command, and to be eſteemed (within the Liberties and Juriſdiction of the Town) the ſecond Man in the Kingdom; and [36] the Grant of thoſe Privileges concludes thus: Ut ab antiquo uſu fuerunt, As of antient Time they had been accuſtomed: ſo that this Charter, which was granted by Edward IV. Anno 1461, ſeems to be only a Confirmation of former Privileges, not a Grant of new ones.

In the Church of St. Martin in Stamford-baron, is a very noble Monument of William Cecil Lord Burleigh, who lies buried there in a large Vault juſt under it; and oppoſite to it, on the North Side, is a more antient (but handſome) Monument, tho' not ſo magnificent as the former, in Memory of Richard Cecil, Eſq and Jane his Wife, the Father and Mother of the ſaid famous Lord Burleigh; alſo a more modern Monument for the great Earl who re⯑edify'd the Houſe; and for his Counteſs, a Siſter of the late Duke of Devonſhire: this is a finiſhed Piece, 'tis all of the fineſt Marble, and was made at Florence, and ſent over. The ſaid Earl died on his Return from Rome, at Iſſy near Paris, Aug. 29. 1700.

There is a very fine Stone Bridge over the River Welland of Five Arches, and the Town-hall is in the Upper-part of the Gate, upon or at the End of the Bridge, which is a very handſome Building. Here are Two conſtant Weekly Markets, Three annual Fairs, and a great Midlent Mart; but the latter is not now ſo conſiderable, as it is reported to have been formerly.

But the Beauty of Stamford is the Neighbourhood of the noble Palace of the Earl of Exeter, called Burleigh-houſe, built by the ſaid Lord Burleigh, Lord High Treaſurer to Queen Elizabeth.

This Houſe is ſituated in Northamptonſhire; it is built all of Free-ſtone, looks more like a Town than a Houſe, at which Avenue ſoever you come to it; the Towers and the Pinacles ſo high, and placed at ſuch a Diſtance from one another, look like ſo [37] many diſtant Pariſh Churches in a great Town; and a large Spire covered with Lead, over the Clock in the Centre, looks like the Cathedral, or chief Church of the Town.

The Houſe ſtands on an Eminence, which riſes from the North Entrance of the Park, coming from Stamford: on the other Side, viz. South and Weſt, the Country lies on a Level with the Houſe, and is a fine Plain, with Poſts, and other Marks for Horſe-races. As the Entrance looks towards the flat low Grounds of Lincolnſhire, it gives the Houſe a moſt extraordinary Proſpect into the Fens, ſo that you may ſee from thence near 30 Miles, without any thing to intercept the Sight.

As you mount the Hill, you come to a fine Eſpla⯑nade, before the great Gate, or firſt Entrance of the Houſe, where is a ſmall, but very handſome Semicircle, taken in with an Iron Baluſtrade; and from this, riſing a few Steps, you enter a moſt no⯑ble Hall, but made infinitely more noble by the in⯑valuable Paintings, with which it is ſo filled, that there is not room to place any thing between them.

John Earl of Exeter, Grandfather of his preſent Lordſhip, had a great Genius for Painting and Archi⯑tecture, and a ſuperior Judgment in both, as every Part of this noble Structure will teſtify; for he changed the whole Face of the Building, pulled down great Part of the Front next the Garden, and turned the old Gothick Windows into thoſe ſpacious Saſhes which are now ſeen there; and tho' the Founder, who had alſo an exquiſite Taſte, (as the Manner of Buildings then was) had ſo well ordered the Situation and Avenues of the whole Fabrick, that nothing was wanting of that Kind, and had alſo contrived the Houſe itſelf in a moſt magnificent manner, the Rooms ſpacious, the Ceilings lofty, and the Deco⯑rations juſt; yet the late Earl found Room for Al⯑terations, infinitely to the Advantage of the Whole; [38] as particularly, a noble Stair-caſe, a whole Suite of fine Apartments, with Rooms of State, fit for the Entertainment of a Prince, eſpecially thoſe on the Garden Side.

As the noble Lord above-mentioned loved Paint⯑ings, ſo he had infinite Advantage in procuring them; for he not only travelled Three times into Italy, and ſtay'd every time a conſiderable while at Florence; but his princely Deportment, and fine Accompliſh⯑ments, procured him the perſonal Eſteem of the Great Duke, who aſſiſted him in the Purchace of many excellent Pieces, and likewiſe preſented him with ſeveral others of great Value.

Among the reſt, there is, in the great Hall, his Lordſhip's Picture on Horſeback, done by the Great Duke's principal Painter, at his Highneſs's Charge, and given to his Lordſhip, as a Mark of ſpecial Fa⯑vour: there is alſo a fine Piece of Seneca bleeding to Death in the warm Bath, and dictating his laſt Morals to his Scholars; a Piece ſo excellent, that I have been told, the late King of France offered the Earl 6000 Piſtoles for it.

The Stair-caſe, the Ceilings of all the fine Lodg⯑ings, the Chapel, the Hall, the late Earl's Cloſet, are all finely painted by the celebrated VARRIO, whom the Earl kept 12 Years in his Family, wholly imploy'd in them, and allow'd him a Coach and Horſes, an Equipage, a Table, and Servants, and a very conſiderable Penſion.

By the Park Wall, or, as ſome think, thro' the Park, adjoining to Burleigh-houſe, paſſed an old Roman Highway, beginning at Caſter, a little Village near Peterborough; but which was antiently the Roman Station, or Colony, Durobrevum, as I have ſaid. This whole Town takes in Three Squares of full 300 Feet each, two of which are allotted to the Caſtle: the third is an Area lying to the Eaſt before it, be⯑tween the Caſtle and the Hill, which is ſtill the [39] Market-place. From under the Caſtle-walls, almoſt quite round, riſe many quick Springs; but of theſe the Syfer Spring is the moſt noted, having now Four Fluxes of Water from between the Joints of great Stones, laid flat like a Wall, and join'd together with Lead, probably by the Romans, being under their Wall. It is very pleaſantly overſhaded with Trees. Its Name is Saxon, and ſignifies pure, which Appellation it well deſerves. The Roman Way is ſtill to be ſeen, and is now called The Forty-feet Way, paſſing from Gunworth Ferry (and Peterborough) to Stamford: This was, as the Antiquaries are of Opinion, the great Road into the North, which is ſince turned from Stilton in Huntingdonſhire, to Wandſworth or Wandsford, where is a very good Bridge over the the River Nyne; which coming down from North⯑ampton, as I have obſerved already, paſſed thence by Peterborough, and ſo into the Fen Country. But I am of Opinion, neither this nor Wandsford was the antient Northern Road uſed by the Romans; for 'tis evident, that the great Roman Cauſway is ſtill ſeen on the Left-hand of that Road, and paſſing the Nyne at a Place called Water Neuton, went directly to Stamford, and paſſed the Welland, juſt above that Town, but not in the Place where the Bridge ſtands now; and this Roman Way is ſtill to be ſeen, both on the South and the North Side of the Welland, ſtretching itſelf on to Brig Caſterton, a little Town upon the River Guaſh, about Three Miles beyond Stamford; which was, as all Writers agree, another Roman Station, and was called Guaſennae by the An⯑tients, from whence the River is ſuppoſed alſo to take its Name; whence it went on to Panton, an⯑other very conſiderable Colony, and ſo to Newark, where it croſſed the Foſs.

Hence the Road goes by Stretton; then leaves a little on the Left-hand Colſterworth, highly memo⯑rable [40] for being the Birth-place of the great Philoſopher, Sir Iſaac Newton.

This Forty-foot Way then muſt be a Croſs-road from Caſter, and by that from the Fen Country, ſo leading into the great Highway at Stamford: as like⯑wiſe another Croſs-road went out of the ſaid great Road at Panton, a Village of Antiquity near Ancaſter, to the Town of Ancaſter, where a Roman Cohort was ſtationed, and thence joined the Foſs again at Lincoln.

Near this little Village of Caſter lives the Lord Fitzwilliams, of an antient Family, but of an Iriſh Title; his Lordſhip ſome Years ago built a very fine Stone Bridge over the River Nyne, near Gunworth, where formerly was the Ferry, as I have mentioned before; for the paſſing of which in a Coach, we paid 2s. 6d.

As we paſs by Burleigh-park Wall, on the great Road, we ſee on the Weſt Side, not above a Mile from it, another Houſe, built by the ſame Lord Burleigh, and which might paſs for a very noble Seat, were not Burleigh by. This is called Wathorp, and ſtands juſt on the great Roman Way, mentioned above; this is the Houſe of which the old Earl is reputed to have ſaid, he built it to remove to, and to be out of the Duſt, while Burleigh-houſe was ſweeping.

From hence we went to Oundle, being told that the famous Drum was to be heard at that time in the Well; but tho' we ſaw the Well, we heard no Drum, or any Noiſe at all. No Doubt, it is owing, if there be any thing in it, to the Paſſage of the Water and Air. Here are two long Stone Bridges. Lowick Church, on the Side of a Hill, is very fine. The Monuments of the Founder John de Drayton, of the Veres and Staffords, Earl of Wiltſhire, &c. are to be ſeen here: as is that of the late Ducheſs of Norfolk, who, after her Divorce, married Sir John [41] Germayn, of Drayton-houſe, who in a manner in⯑tirely new built this antient Seat.

Oundle is almoſt ſurrounded by the River, over which it has Two handſome Stone Bridges. It is a neat, uniform-built Town.

The Nyne has a Range of eminent Towns along the Banks of it; viz. Northampton, Wellingborough, Higham-ferris, Thrapſton, Oundle, Foderinghay, Wandſ⯑ford and Peterborough, all in this County. The two firſt I have already mention'd.

Higham-ferris is a ſmall neat and healthful Mayor-town, pleaſantly ſeated on a riſing Ground, and is alſo an antient Borough.

Thrapſton is delightfully ſituated in a fine Valley, and ſurrounded wlth a rich Soil, and well water'd. It has a fine Bridge over the Nyne; but is not emi⯑nent either for Trade or Buildings; tho' it will pro⯑bably ſoon change its Face by virtue of an Act paſſed for making the Nyne navigable; which has had ſo good an Effect, that, when I was laſt there, the 17th of November 1737, on that very Day Boats were brought up to Thrapſton for the firſt time, which occaſioned much Joy in the Town.

Here alſo is a moſt beautiful Range of Meadows and Paſtures, perhaps not to be equalled in England for Length. They ſtretch, uninterrupted, from Peterborough to Northampton, which is near 30 Miles in Length, and in ſome Places are near two Miles in Breadth; the Land rich, the Graſs fine, and the Cattle which feed on them, hardly to be number'd.

North-weſt of this River lies Kettering, a hand⯑ſome well-frequented Town upon a riſing Ground; and beyond that again is Rothwell, a pretty good Market-town.

From Oundle we travelled North-eaſt into Yarley in Huntingdonſhire, a little Town tolerably well built. [42] The Church has a neat lofty Spire. In our Way hither we croſſed the Watling-ſtreet Way. At Overton, now called Cherry Orton, a Village near Gunworth Ferry, is an old Manſion-houſe, formerly belonging to a very antient and almoſt forgotten Family of great Men, called Lovetoft. On the other Side of the River, is the fine Houſe I mentioned before, belong⯑ing to Sir Francis St. John, Bart. which affords a very beautiful Proſpect to Travellers, as they paſs from the Hill beyond Stilton to Wandsford Bridge. This Wandsford has obtained an idle Addition to its Name, from a Story firmly believed by the Country People; viz. That a great Flood coming haſtily down the River Nyne, in Hay-making-time, a Country Fellow, having taken up his Lodging on a Cock of Hay in the Meadow, was driven, on the Hay, down the Stream in the Night, while he was faſt aſleep, towards Wisbech in the Fens; when being wakened, he was ſeen and taken up by ſome Fiſhermen, almoſt in the open Sea; and being aſked, Where he lived? he anſwered, At Wansford in England. And we ſaw at the great Inn, by the South End of the Bridge, the Sign of a Man floating on a Cock of Hay, and over him written Wandsford in England.

Falling down Southward we come to Stilton, a Town famous for Cheeſe, which is called our Engliſh Parmeſan, and is brought to Table ſo full of Mites or Maggots, that they uſe a Spoon to eat them. We came again into the Roman Way at Stilton, which comes from Caſter aforementioned, and runs all the way to Huntingdon; which we followed thro' Sautery-lane, a deep Deſcent between two Hills, in which is Stangate-hole, noted for being the greateſt Robbing-place in all this Part of the County, and ſo came to Huntingdon, antiently called Hunters-dune, the County-town, ſituated on a riſing Ground, on the North Side of the Ouſe. It is a great Thorough⯑fair on the Northern Road, and is full of very good [43] Inns, and is a ſtrong Paſs upon the Ouſe, and in the late Civil Wars, it was eſteemed ſo by both Parties. It was given by King Stephen to David King of Scots, as an Augmentation to his Eſtate, and taken away by King Henry II. However, the Scotiſh Kings always claimed it.

It is a Mayor-town, and had antiently Fifteen Churches; of later Days, but Four, and in the Civil Wars they were reduced to Two. The Cauſe of its Decay at firſt, is ſaid to be owing to a Court Minion, who procur'd the Paſſage of the Ouſe to be ſtopped, which had been navigable to the Town. The ſaid River is now made navigable for ſmaller Veſſels to Bedford.

The Witches of Warbois, in this County, have made ſo much Noiſe, that I ſhall juſt mention the fatal End of a Man, his Wife and Daughter, who were all Three hanged for torturing the Children of a Gentleman in the Pariſh: the Hiſtory of it is kept in Queen's College Library in Cambridge; and one of their Fellows preaches yearly, at Huntingdon, on that Occaſion. The Children being ſick, their Urine was ſent to Maſter Dr. Dorrington at Cam⯑bridge, who ſent a Medicine againſt Worms. That prevailing nothing, the Doctor, upon ſecond Thoughts, pronounced the Symptoms were from Witchcraft. It was not long before a proper Family was ſuſpected: the Woman and her Daughter were frequently ſent for, and kept with the Children, and the Diſeaſe remitted upon the Sight of them; but chiefly upon a Confeſſion, and a ſort of Petition added to it. To this Effect was the Girl's: As I am a Witch, and a greater Witch than my Mother, ſo I deſire, that the Pains ſhall go off from this Child. Theſe Confeſſions were the chief Point againſt the Priſoners, which they had been prevailed upon to re⯑peat by the Stranders-by, who had obſerved the Children relieved upon it, as they imagined. And [44] thus Three unhappy Perſons were ſacrificed to Igno⯑rance and Superſtition.

I ſhall take farther Notice of this Subject when I come to Lancaſhire, a County formerly famous for Witches, and where Perſons likewiſe ſuffered for this pretended Crime.

Here are the moſt beautiful Meadows on the Banks of the River Ouſe, that I think are to be ſeen in any Part of England; which, in the Summer Seaſon, are covered with ſuch numerous Herds of Cattle, and Flocks of Sheep, as are hardly credible.

This Town is one long continued Street, pretty well built, eſpecially from the Ground Plot, where the Caſtle ſtood. Here was born Oliver Cromwell, of genteel and worthy Parents. The Houſe is new⯑built, but the Room in which he was born is pre⯑ſerved in its firſt State. It has a good Market-place; but the Free-ſtone Bridge, or Bridges rather, and Cauſway over the Ouſe, are a very great Ornament as well as Benefit to the Place. Here is a good Publick School.

Between Godmancheſter, or Gormancheſter, (a Ro⯑man Camp) and Huntingdon, is a wooden Bridge erected over a Rivulet, upon Principles of Gratitude and publick Charity, with this Inſcription: ‘ROBERTUS COOK emergens aquis hoc viatoribus
Sacrum D.D. 1636.’ That is: ‘ROBERT COOK, having eſcaped the Danger of Drowning, conſecrated this for the Uſe of Travel⯑lers, 1636.’

On the Weſt Side of this Town, and in View of the plain lower Side of the County, is a noble, tho' antient Seat of the Earl of Sandwich; the Gardens very fine and well kept; the Situation ſeems a little obſcured by the Town of Huntingdon. In the ſame [45] Plain we ſaw Bugden, a ſmall Village, in which is a very pleaſant, tho' antient Houſe or Palace of the Biſhops of Lincoln: the Houſe and Garden ſur⯑rounded by a very large and deep Moat of Water. The Chapel is very pretty, tho' ſmall. There is an Organ painted againſt the Wall, in a ſeeming Organ⯑loft, and ſo properly placed, and well painted, that we at firſt believed it really to be one.

Erith is a large Town, but without a Market.

St. Ives is a pretty neat Market-town, but is leſſen'd, and ſuffer'd greatly by Fire. Here Crom⯑well, after he had prodigally waſted his paternal Eſtate, rented a Farm, before he was elected Burgeſs for Cambridge.

Hinchinbroke-houſe, which gives Title of a Viſ⯑count to the eldeſt Son of the Earl of Sandwich, and the Village of the ſame Name, lie at a ſmall Diſtance from Huntingdon. And a little Way South-weſt ſtands the Town of Kimbolton, and that moſt nobly ſituated and pleaſant Seat of the Duke of Man⯑cheſter, Kimbolton Caſtle, where no Pains or Coſt has been ſpared tu improve the moſt beautiful Situ⯑ation in Nature with the Works and Ornaments of Art.

Kimbolton Town is the Kiniubantum of the Romans. Here Queen Catharine, after ſhe was divorced, reſided for ſome time.

At Ailweſton, in this County, are two Springs, one of freſh Water, good for dim Eyes; the other brackiſh, of Uſe for curing of Scabs, Leproſy, &c.

From Huntingdon we came to St. Neots on the Ouſe, over which is a good Stone Bridge. The Church is ſtrong and well built, and the Steeple manifeſts the Skill of the Artiſt, much to his Ad⯑vantage. The Town takes its Name from Neotus, a learned and pious Man, who was interred here; from whom likewiſe St. Neots, in Cornwall, takes its Name, where he for ſome time reſided. Hither [46] Coals are brought by Water, and convey'd by Land around the Country.

Here we enter'd Bedfordſhire, and came to Bed⯑ford, the chief Town; for it has no City in it, tho' this Town is larger and more populous than ſeveral Cities in England. It is one of the Seven Counties, which, they ſay, lie together, and have not one City among them; namely, Huntingdon, Bedford, Bucks, Berks, Hertford, Eſſex, and Suffolk.

It is remarkable, that tho' a great Part of this County, viz. the two whole Hundreds of Stodden and Bedford, lie on the North of the Ouſe; yet there is but one Market-town in all that Side of the Ouſe, beſide Bedford.

It is alſo remarkable, that tho' the Ouſe, by a long and winding Courſe, cuts thro' the County, ſo as to make above 70 Miles between Oulney and St. Neots, not above 20 by Land, yet in all that Courſe it re⯑ceives only the little River Ivel, which falls into it a little above Temsford.

Bedford is a large, populous, thriving, pleaſant, and well-built Mayor-town; it has five Pariſh Churches, a very fine Stone Bridge over the Ouſe, and the High Street (eſpecially) is very handſome and well-built: here is alſo a fair Market-place; but it is much improved lately in new Buildings. The River hath alſo been made navigable, and runs thro' the Town. It had formerly a Caſtle, and now, where it ſtood, is one of the moſt beautiful Bowling-greens in the Kingdom. It has Two Hoſpitals for Lazars, and another for Eight poor People. Here is a Free-ſchool well endow'd, and a Charity-ſchool for Forty Children, and tho' the Town is not upon any of the great Roads in England, yet it is full of very good Inns, which afford elegant Entertainment; for here is the beſt Market for all Sorts of Proviſions, that is to be ſeen at any Country Town in all theſe [47] Parts of England; and the Reaſon of it is, that, tho' it is ſo far from London, yet the Higglers or Carriers buy great Quantities of Proviſions here for the London Markets; here alſo is a very good Trade down the River to Lynn.

Here likewiſe is a great Corn-market, and vaſt Quantities of Grain are bought here, and carried down by large Veſſels and Barges to Lynn, where it is again ſhipped, and carried by Sea to Holland. The Soil hereabouts is exceeding rich and fertile, and par⯑ticularly produces great Quantities of the beſt Wheat in England, which is carried by Waggons from hence, and from the North Part of the Country 20 Miles beyond this, to the Markets of Hitchin and Hertford, and bought again there, and ground and carried in the Meal (ſtill by Land) to London.

Indeed the whole Product of this County may be ſaid to be Wheat and Malt for London; for here are very few Manufactures, except thoſe of Straw Hats and Bone Lace; of which by itſelf. There are but Ten Market-towns in the whole County, which I ſhall recount as I took them in my Courſe.

Potton, which lies on the Borders of Cambridge⯑ſhire, and of no Note. Southward ſtands

Biggleſwade, a pleaſant ſituated Place on the Ivel, and furniſhed with a great Number of good Inns for accommodating Travellers between London and York. Still more Southward lies

Shefford, between two Rivulets; over each of which is a Bridge.

Weſt of this Town ſtands Ampthill, a pretty Town, delightfully ſeated between two Hills. Near it is a large Park, with a great Manſion-houſe in it, which King Charles II. gave to the Noble Family of Bruce, who had their Title of Viſcount from this Town; notwithſtanding which, and that they were always Hereditary Stewards of the Manor of Ampt⯑hill, [48] yet the preſent Lord Bruce lately ſold his whole Eſtate here to his Grace the Duke of Bedford.

Queen Catharine, after ſhe was divorced, choſe this Town as one of her Retiring-places. Farther Southward is

Woburn, noted for having Plenty of Fullers Earth near it; and likewiſe another Kind of Earth, which petrifies Wood into Stone. This Town, having been almoſt demoliſhed by a terrible Fire, which happened a few Years ago, is now rebuilt, and makes no mean Appearance. It belongs almoſt all of it to his Grace the Duke of Bedford, who finiſhed, in Feb. 1737, a fine and commodious Market-place here.

The Duke's Houſe, called Woburn Abbey, is juſt by the Town, a good old Houſe, and exceedingly pleaſant by its Situation, which is in a fine large Park walled round. The Duke had once deſigned to have pulled down the old Houſe, and to rebuild it in a magnificent manner: but laid aſide that Reſo⯑lution, and only repaired it. There are many noble Rooms in it, and particularly a very capacious and long Gallery, furniſhed with a great Variety of fine Pictures, chiefly of the Ruſſel Family: the Wain⯑ſcoting of this noble Apartment is ſtrewed, as one may ſay, with gilded Stars, which have a pretty Effect among the Pictures. A Room has been laid into this Gallery at one End, where a good Billiard-table is placed.

Before the Houſe is a very large Baſon of Water, ſurrounded with a fine broad Gravel-walk, which is bounded with Poſts and Iron Chains. On the Water is a moſt beautiful Yacht of between 30 and 40 Tons Burden, elegantly carved and gilt, and completely rigged, and mounts Ten Guns, which are fired on Occaſion of Entertainments, &c. given on Board her by his Grace. There is alſo an elegant Boat with a fine Awning over it, a Wherry of the com⯑mon Shape, and a Skiff, which are very neat, and [49] make a beautiful Appearance on this noble Baſon of Water.

Near Woburn is Battleſden, the Seat of Thomas Page, Eſq abounding with many Beauties, and ſtill daily improving by additional Works in a very fine Taſte.

Dunſtable is ſeated on a Hill, in a chalky Ground, in the County of Bedford. It conſiſts of Four prin⯑cipal Streets, anſwering to the Four Quarters of the World. It is well inhabited, and furniſhed with many good Inns for the Accommodation of Travel⯑lers. In the Centre ſtood one of Queen Eleanor's beautiful Croſſes, which was demoliſhed by the Par⯑liament Soldiers. The Situation of this Place being high, and no running Water near, they are forced to draw it up from deep Wells by means of great Wheels; and they have Four large Ponds to receive the Rain-water, which, as a Mark of the holding Quality of the Soil, are never dry, tho' they have no other Supply. They have ſometimes dug 24 Fathoms deep, in Search of Springs, to no Purpoſe.

Kingſbury, once a Royal Seat, over-againſt the Church, is now a Farm-houſe. The Church is compoſed of many Pieces tacked together, as it were, ſome of which are very old. It was Part of the Priory, and Archbiſhop Cranmer was the laſt Prior, who here pronounced the Sentence of Divorce againſt Queen Catharine.

The Gentlemen of Bedford lately came to a laud⯑able Reſolution of levelling the Chalk-hill near this Town, for the Benefit of the Road, which in a Froſt, or after a Snower of Rain, uſed to be ſo ſlippery that neither Man nor Horſe could keep their Feet, which occaſioned often great Damage to both; to prevent which for the future, they imploy'd a Number of Hands to lower it.

Dunſtable ſtands on the Roman Watling-ſtreet, juſt where it is croſſed by Icknild-ſtreet. Here have [50] been Roman Coins frequently found; and on the De⯑ſcent of Chiltern Hills, not far from the Town, is a large round Area of Nine Acres, ſurrounded with a deep Ditch and Rampire called Mardin-hour. It was burnt by the Danes, and rebuilt by Henry I. to repreſs a vaſt Number of Robbers which infeſted the Country thereabouts; and it takes its Name from Dunning, one of the Thieves, and from Dun⯑ningceſtaple it is now, by Contraction, called Dun⯑ſtable.

On the Borders of Buckinghamſhire ſtands Leigh⯑ton, famous for a great Cattle and Horſe-fair.

North-eaſt of Dunſtable, on the Edge of Hert⯑fordſhire, lies Luton, a little pretty Town, ſeated very pleaſantly amongſt Hills, and noted for a good Market and Market-place.

This County is remarkable for having more Noblemens and Gentlemens Seats in it than any County in England. The Middle Part of the County is well ſtored with Wood, which affords a great deal of Game.

Thro' the whole South Part of this County, as far as the Borders of Buckinghamſhire and Hertford⯑ſhire, the People are taken up with the Manufacture of Bone-lace, in which they are wonderfully in⯑creaſed and improved.

Alſo the Manufactures of Straw-work, eſpecially Straw Hats, ſpreads itſelf from Hertfordſhire into this County, and is greatly increaſed within a few Years paſt.

Having thus viewed this County in all its moſt conſiderable Towns, we came from Dunſtable to St. Albans, where we ſaw the handſome Alms⯑houſes built and endow'd by the Marlborough Fami⯑ly, and ſo returned to London.

LETTER II. CONTAINING A Deſcription of Part of Nottingham⯑ſhire, of Derbyſhire, and Part of Yorkſhire.

HAVING finiſhed the Account of my ſeveral Circuits, which complete the Southern Part of Britain; I am now to begin this Circuit from the River Trent, and to confine my Obſerva⯑tions to the Country, which is called by ſome North by Trent.

The River Trent is deemed by antient Writers as the fourth capital River in England, the other three being the Thames, the Severn, and the Humber.

Tho' the Trent is not the largeſt, yet it may be ſaid to run the longeſt Courſe, and riſes nearer to the Weſt Side of the Iſland than any of the others; it is alſo the largeſt, and of the longeſt Courſe of any River in England, which does not empty its Waters immediately into the Sea; for the Trent runs into the Humber, and ſo loſes its Name before it reaches the Ocean.

[52]It riſes in the Highlands of Staffordſhire called the Moorlands, receiving from the Edge of Cheſhire, and towards Lancaſhire, a great many (ſome ſay 30, and that thence it had its Name, for Trent in French is 30) little Rivulets into it, very near its Head; ſo that it ſoon becomes one large River, and comes down from the Hills with a violent Current into the flat Country; where, being increaſed by ſeveral other little Rivers, it carries a deeper Chanel, and a ſtiller Current; and having given its Name to Trentham, a ſmall Market-town in the ſame County, it goes on to Stone, a conſiderable Town on the great Road to Weſt Cheſter.

One Branch of the Trent riſes within a Quarter of a Mile of the Dane, from a Moor adjoining to a little Ridge of Hills, called Molecop Hill, near Congleton, within 22 Miles of the Iriſh Sea. As the Dane runs into the Weaver, and both into that Arm of the Sea, which the Merſee makes from Frodſham to Liverpool and Hyle-lake; and as the Trent runs into the Humber, which opens into the great Ger⯑man Ocean; theſe Rivers may be ſaid to cut the Iſland acroſs in the middle.

It is true, the Northern Part is much larger than the Southern, now Scotland is united; otherwiſe the Country South by Trent, including Wales, is by far the largeſt, as well as the richeſt and moſt populous, occaſioned chiefly by the Commerce of the City of London. As for the Towns of Briſtol, Exeter, Lynn, Norwich, Yarmouth, &c. which are large and very populous, and carry on a prodigious Trade, as well in Merchandize as Manufacture, we ſhall find them pretty near equalled by the Towns of Liverpool, Hull, Leeds, Newcaſtle, and Mancheſter, and the Cities of Edinburgh and Glaſgow.

The Trent runs a Courſe of near 200 Miles, thro' the four Counties of Stafford, Derby, Not⯑tingham, and Lincoln. It receives, beſides leſſer [53] Waters, the larger Rivers of the Sowe from the Weſt Side of the County, and from the Town of Stafford; the Tame from Birmingham and Tamworth, the Soar from Leiceſter, and the Dove and Derwent, two furiouſly rapid Streams, from the Peak of Der⯑by; the Idle, a gentle navigable Stream, from Rhet⯑ford and Nottinghamſhire, with part of the Witham, called the Foſs-dike, from Lincoln, alſo navigable; and the greateſt of them all, the Dun, from Doncaſter, Rotheram, and Sheffield, after a long and rapid Courſe thro' the Moors, called Stanecroſs, on the Edge of Derby, and the Weſt Riding of Yorkſhire.

The Trent is navigable by Ships of good Burden as high as Gainsborough, which is near 40 Miles from the Humber by the River. The Barges with⯑out the Help of Locks or Stops go as high as Not⯑tingham; and farther by the Help of Art, to Burton upon this River in Staffordſhire. The Stream is full, the Chanel deep and ſafe, and the Tide flows up to Gainsborough and Newark. The Navigation, by theſe Advantages, is a great Support to the Trade of thoſe Counties which border upon it, eſpecially the Cheeſe Trade from Cheſhire and Warwickſhire, which have otherwiſe no Navigation but from theſe Parts about Weſt Cheſter to London; whereas by this River it is brought by Water to Hull, and from thence to all the South and North Coaſts on the Eaſt Side of Britain.

The only Towns of Note ſtanding upon the North Shore of Trent, are Nottingham and Burton, of which I ſhall ſpeak in their Order.

The Counties North of Trent are Yorkſhire, which may not improperly be called three Counties, as it is divided into three Ridings, each equal to ſome large Counties; Lancaſhire, which is very large; Derby⯑ſhire, and Nottinghamſhire, which are more Southerly. I ſhall begin with theſe two, and take them to⯑gether.

[54]Beginning at the Mouth of Trent, the firſt Town of Note that I met with is Nottingham, the Capital of that Shire, and the moſt conſiderable in all that Part of England. The County is ſmall, but, like the Peak, full of Wonders. (1.) 'Tis remarkable for its Situation, being bounded intirely by four Counties, and thoſe towards the four Cardinal Points, a Circumſtance peculiar to this County only. (2) For its Soil, which on the South Part is the richeſt and moſt fruitful, and in the North Part the moſt wild and waſte, even almoſt to Barrenneſs, of any Part of England within many Miles of it. (3.) For the fine Seats of Noblemen and Gentlemen, eſpecially thoſe of the Dukes of Norfolk, Kingſton, Rutland, New⯑caſtle, Lord Middleton, and ſeveral others.

Nottingham is one of the moſt pleaſant and beau⯑tiful Towns in England, from its Situation, were its Buildings not to be named.

It is ſituated on the ſteep Aſcent of a Hill or Rock, overlooking a fine Range of Meadows of great Extent; a little Rivulet running on the North Side of them, almoſt cloſe to the Town: and the noble River Trent, parallel with both, on the South Side of the Meadows. Over the Trent is a ſtately Stone Bridge of 19 Arches, where the River is very large and deep, having received the Addition of the Dove, the Derwent, the Irwaſh, and the Soar, three of them very great Rivers of themſelves, which fall into it, after its paſſing by Burton in Stafford⯑ſhire mentioned before.

The Rock whereon the Town ſtands is of a ſandy kind, and ſo ſoft, that it is hewed into Vaults and Cellars, and yet ſo firm, as to ſupport the Roofs of theſe Cellars, two or three under one another. The Stairs which lead to theſe Vaults are cut out of the Rock, two or three Stories deep, to 80 Steps ſome⯑times: And theſe Cellars are well ſtock'd with ex⯑cellent Ale, of which the Inhabitants are very liberal [55] among their Acquaintance, as ſome in our Company experienc'd.

The Hill or Rock was called of old the Dolorous Hill, or Golgotha, becauſe of a great Slaughter of the antient Britons there by King Humber, a pira⯑tical Northern Monarch; who, being afterwards drowned between Hull and Barton, gave Name, as 'tis ſaid, to that Arm of the Sea which is now called the Humber, and receives the Trent, and almoſt all the great Rivers of Yorkſhire, into it; tho' others derive the Name from the dreadful Noiſe of its Waves.

They tell us, that theſe Caves and Cellars ſerved the People for a Retreat from their Enemies, and that from thence the Town firſt took its Name, which was Snottengaham, ſignifying hollow Vaults in a Rock, Speluncarum Domus; and, as Mr. Cam⯑den obſerves, the Britiſh Word was Tui ogo bauc, which ſignifies the ſame as the Latin, a Houſe of Dens, or ſecret Caves to hide in.

Beſides the delightful Situation of Nottingham to⯑wards the River, it is equally pleaſant to the Land Side, towards the Foreſt on the North of the Town; where is a fine Plain for a Horſe-courſe, where Races uſed to be run once a Year.

At the Weſt End of the Town is a very ſteep Hill, and at the South Side of it a Cliff, which falls in a Precipice down to the River. On this Hill ſtood a Caſtle of ſo great Antiquity, that the Time of its firſt Erection could never be traced. The firſt Account we read of it, is, that there was a Tower here which the Danes obſtinately defended againſt King Alfred, and his Brother Aethelred.

Upon the ſame Situation William the Conqueror, or, as others, with greater Probability, maintain, Wil⯑liam Peverell, his natural Son, built another Caſtle; which was afterwards repaired, or rather rebuilt, by Edward IV. who added fine Apartments to it, [56] which Richard III. his Brother, ſtill farther inlarg'd; whereby it became in time very conſiderable, and ſo ſtrong, that nothing could reduce it but Famine. 'Tis certain it has not undergone the ordinary Fate of other fortified Places, to be often taken and re⯑taken; for it was never ſtorm'd. Once indeed it was taken by Surprize in the Barons Wars by Robert Earl Ferrers, who alſo plundered the Town, or City, as it was then called.

The People here tell us of one of the Davids, King of Scotland, being kept Priſoner in it; and that Roger Mortimer, Earl of March, was hid in a Vault under Ground, which they call Mortimer's-hole, whence he was taken, and hang'd for Treaſon.

This Report has ſome Foundation in Hiſtory, but is ſo obſcured by vulgar Tradition, that it led Mr. Camden firſt into ſome Miſtakes in his Narration, and afterwards into a Disbelief of it. Mortimer, with the Queen, the Biſhop of Lincoln, and others, being poſſeſſed of the Caſtle, could have no Reaſon to hide himſelf under Ground: but it was by this pri⯑vate Paſſage, which goes by Steps thro' the Rock up to the Keep, that Sir William Montacute, with others, 5 Edw. III. found means, in the Dead of the Night, to ſeize him; and, ſending him up to the Tower, he was there beheaded.

The Caſtle was granted by K. James I. to Francis Earl of Rutland; and K. Charles I. made it remark⯑able, by erecting there his Royal Standard, 1642; but he ſoon quitted it, and the Parliament kept Poſſeſſion of it till the End of the War, when it was ordered to be demoliſhed. Some Parts of it however were ſtand⯑ing at the Reſtoration, when George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, whoſe Mother was the ſole Heir of the foreſaid Earl of Rutland, ſold it to William Cavendiſh, Marquis of Newcaſtle. He, in 1674, cleared the Foundations of the old Tower, a ſmall Part excepted, and founded the noble Structure which is now ſtand⯑ing; [57] and devolved to the Houſe of Pelham. The preſent Duke of Newcaſtle beautified it, and wain⯑ſcoted the Rooms with Cedar, and had laid out a Plan for the fineſt Gardens in all that Part of Eng⯑land, being to contain no leſs than 60 Acres; but the Deſign is changed, and the intended Gardens are made a Park.

The Caſtle, built on a high perpendicular Rock, as I have hinted, ſeems to have been modell'd after ſome of the Draughts of Inigo Jones. There are many good Pictures in it; and it commands a vaſt Proſpect. The South Side of the Rock is altogether inacceſſible, and vaſt ſubterraneous Grottoes are cut underneath; and a winding Stair-caſe quite to the Bottom ends in Mortimer's-hole, above-mention'd.

This Caſtle at preſent is much neglected, being ſtripp'd of its beſt Furniture and Hangings, and the Floors of ſome of the nobleſt Apartments ſuffer'd to fall in.

St. Mary's Church is a fine lightſome Gothick Building, with a good Ring of 8 Bells; but the great Tower makes a mean Appearance. The Butchers Shambles is an old Edifice built for a Granary.

They ſhew'd us the Gardens of Count Tallard, who, in his Confinement here, after having been taken Priſoner by the renowned Duke of Marlborough, at the glorious Battle of Blenheim, amuſed himſelf with making a ſmall, but beautiful Parterre, after the French Taſte, which happens not to be the reign⯑ing one with us at preſent. 'Tis ſaid likewiſe, that this gallant Gentleman left behind him here ſome living Memorandums of his great Affection and Eſteem for the Engliſh Ladies.

A handſome Town-houſe upon Piazzas has been erected within theſe few Years, for the tranſacting of the Buſineſs of the Corporation. Not many Years ago, the Hall where the Aſſizes were held [58] gave ſuch a Crack, that the People were exceed⯑ingly frighted, and all ran out of it, leaving Mr. Juſtice Powis upon the Bench, calling out after them, Is there nobody will take care of the Judge? for he was ſo aged and infirm that he could hardly walk. But, finding himſelf neglected, he made ſhift to deſcend from the Bench, and hobble out at the Door, where he denounc'd Vengeance againſt the Town, which, with a very ſeaſonable Piece of Ju⯑ſtice, he fin'd, for neglecting to keep the Hall in Repair.

The Town has been at great Expence in making the Trent navigable here for Veſſels or Barges of Bur⯑den, by which all their heavy and bulky Goods are brought from the Humber, and even from Hull; ſuch as Iron, Block-tin, Salt, Hops, Grocery, Dy⯑ers Wares, Wine, Oil, Tar, Hemp, Flax, &c. and the ſame Veſſels bring down Lead, Coal, Wood, and Corn; as alſo Cheeſe in great Quantities from Warwickſhire and Staffordſhire, as I have already mentioned.

When I ſaid the Bridge over Trent had nineteen Arches, I might have ſaid alſo it was a Mile long; for the Trent, the laſt Time I was there, being ſwelled over its ordinary Bounds, reached quite up to the Town: yet a high Cauſeway, with Arches at proper Diſtances, carried us dry over the whole Breadth of the Meadows, which, I think, is at leaſt a Mile, and may juſtly be called a Bridge, as that at Swarſton, and alſo that of Poul Spooder in Wales, are called.

The chief Manufacture carried on here is Frame⯑work-knitting of Stockens, the ſame as at Leiceſter, and ſome Glaſs, and earthen Ware. The latter is much increaſed by the Conſumption of Tea-pots, Cups, &c. ſince the Increaſe of Tea-drinking, as the Glaſs-houſes, I think, are of late rather decreas'd. A Proof, one would think, that the Luxury of the [59] Males is leſs predominant than that of the Females; or, rather as ſome would ſay, that the Men are brought over by the Ladies to join with them in the Love of the Tea-table: and indeed the latter ſeems pretty much the Caſe; whether it be owing to Gal⯑lantry and Complaiſance, or to Effeminacy and In⯑dolence, let thoſe concerned in the Obſervation an⯑ſwer.

As they brew very good Liquor here, ſo they make the beſt Malt (and more of it) of any Town in this Part of England, and ſend it by Land-car⯑riage to Derby, thro' all the Peak, as far as Man⯑cheſter, and to other Towns in Lancaſhire, Cheſhire, and even into Yorkſhire itſelf; for which Purpoſe all the Low Lands of this County, and eſpecially on the Banks of the Trent, are made to yield prodigious Crops of Barley.

The Government of Nottingham is in a Mayor, Recorder, ſix Aldermen, two Coroners, two She⯑riffs, two Chamberlains, and 24 Common-council, whereof ſix are called Juniors. Here they hold a Court of Pleas. They have two Sergeants at Mace, and another Officer, which they call a Bill-bearer, and two more called Pindars, one for the Fields, and the other for the Meadows. The firſt is alſo the Town Woodward, and attends the Foreſt Courts; for this Town is within the Juriſdiction of the Foreſt.

I might enter into a long Deſcription of all the modern Buildings erected lately at Nottingham, but that would be too great a Taſk; only I muſt take Notice of the Houſe of Mr. Plumtre, which is juſtly to be admired for its elegant Front; and obſerve in general, that as the Caſtle has oftener been the Reſi⯑dence of Kings and Queens, than any other Place ſo far diſtant from London; ſo the Town has more Gentlemens Houſes, than any other of its Big⯑neſs in Great Britain. One may eaſily gueſs Not⯑tingham [60] to have been an antient Town of the Britons. As ſoon as they had proper Tools, they fell to work upon the Rocks, which every-where offer themſelves ſo commodiouſly to make Houſes in; one Inſtance of which, tho' perhaps not old enough to be form'd on theirs, is a Ledge of perpendicular Rock in the Duke of Newcaſtle's Park, hewn into a Church, Houſes, Chambers, Dove-houſes, &c. The Church is like thoſe in the Rocks of Bethlehem, in the Holy Land. The Altar is natural Rock, and there has been Painting on the Wall, a Steeple, where, perhaps, was a Bell, and regular Pillars. The River here wind⯑ing about, makes a Fortification to it; for it comes to both Ends of the Cliff, leaving a Plain before the middle. The Way to it was by Gates cut out of the Rock, and with an oblique Entrance for more Safety.

Between this and the Caſtle is an Hermitage of like Workmanſhip.

Clifton, in this Neighbourhood, is a good Seat, with pretty Gardens, and a noble Proſpect; and in the Church are many old Braſſes of the Clifton Fa⯑mily.

Three Miles from Nottingham is Wallaton-hall, the Seat of my Lord Middleton, and the nobleſt Building in this County, except Belvoir, which only exceeds it in Spaciouſneſs, but not in Beauty.

The Park, incloſed within a Brick Wall, is much finer than the great Park adjoming to the Caſtle of Nottingham, being much better planted with Tim⯑ber; whereas that at Nottingham was all cut down, and ſequeſtred in the late Wars.

There is a pretty Summer-houſe panelled and ceiled with Looking-glaſs, which produces a pleaſant Effect. Underneath is a Water-houſe, with groteſque Work of Shells, &c. The Hall at the firſt Entrance into the Houſe, is ſo high, that a Man on Horſe-back might exerciſe a Pike in it.

[61]The Foreſt of Shirwood is an Addition to Not⯑tingham for the Pleaſure it affords of Hunting. There are alſo ſome fine Parks and noble Houſes in it, as Welbeck, the late Duke of Newcaſtle's, now Lord Oxford's; and Thoresby, the preſent noble Seat of the Pierrepoints, Dukes of Kingſton, which lies at the fartheſt Edge of the Foreſt. But this Foreſt is now given up, in a manner, to Waſte: even the Woods, which formerly made it famous for Thieves, are deſtroyed, ſo that Robin Hood would now hardly find Shelter for a Week; nor is there any Store of Deer now left, at leaſt not worth mentioning.

From this Foreſt, I went purpoſely out of my in⯑tended Way, to take a View of the Collegiate Church of Southwell.

Southwell is a Market-town in Nottinghamſhire, its Church is both Parochial and Collegiate; which, I think, is the Caſe of no other in England, except Rippon in Yorkſhire. To it belong ſixteen Preben⯑daries or Canons, ſix Vicars Choral, an Organiſt, ſix Singing Men, ſix Choriſters, beſides ſix Boys who attend as Probationers, a Regiſter to the Cha⯑pter, a Treaſurer, an Auditor, a Virger, &c.

This Church is generally ſuppoſed to be founded by Paulinus, the firſt Archbiſhop of York, about the Year 630. It was ſurrendered to the King, 32d Henry VIII. and was actually in the King's Poſſeſſion, until by Act of Parliament, 35 Henry VIII. it was refounded, and reſtored to its antient Privilege, and incorporated by the Name of The Chapter of the Col⯑legiate Church of the bleſſed Mary, the Virgin of Southwell.

Queen Elizabeth confirmed its Privileges; as did afterwards, on a Tryal at Law, King James I.

The Chapter have a peculiar Juriſdiction, and there are 28 Pariſhes ſubject to it, to moſt of which they have the Right of Preſentation; beſides ſome others in Lincolnſhire and Yorkſhire. This Juriſ⯑diction is exerciſed by a Commiſſary, or Vicar [62] General, choſen by the Chapter out of their Body, who holds Viſitations, &c. twice a Year. And be⯑ſides theſe, there are two Synods yearly, to which all the Clergy of the County of Nottingham pay their Attendance; and a certain Number of the Preben⯑daries, and others of the conſiderable Clergy, are ap⯑pointed Commiſſioners by a Commiſſion granted by the Archbiſhop of York to preſide at the Synods.

The Civil Government of the Juriſdiction of South⯑well is diſtinct from the County at large. It is called the Soke of Southwell cum Scrooby, which is another Town in this County. There are about twenty Towns ſubject to this Juriſdiction.

The Cuſtos Rotulorum, and the Juſtices of the Peace, are nominated by the Archbiſhop of York, and conſtituted by a Commiſſion under the Great Seal of England, who hold their Seſſion both at Southwell and Scrooby, and perform all other Juſti⯑ciary Acts diſtinct from the County.

The Church is a ſtrong plain Gothick Building; it has no painted Figures in the Glaſs Work, nor Images, nor ſo much as a Niche capable of placing an Image in. And from hence it has been con⯑jectured, that it was probably built before Image-worſhip was practiſed among Chriſtians.

On Monday the fifth of November 1711, about Ten a Clock at Night, the Top of the Ball on one of the South Spires of this Church was fired by Lightning; which, backed by a furious Wind, that drove it almoſt directly on the Body of the Church, in a few Hours burnt down the Spire and Roof, melted the Bells, and ſpared nothing which was com⯑buſtible, except the other Spire, till it came to the Choir, where, after it had conſumed the Organs, it was by ſingular Providence ſtopt and extinguiſh'd. The Damage was computed at near Four thouſand Pounds.

The Church is built in Form of a Croſs; a great Tower in the Middle, in which are eight Bells, and [63] two Spires at the Weſt End. There is a handſome Chapter-houſe on the North Side of the Choir.

The Length of the Church from Eaſt to Weſt is 306 Feet, the Length of the croſs Iſle from North to South is 121 Feet; the Breadth of the Church is 59 Feet.

There are no very remarkable Monuments in this Church, except one of Archbiſhop Sands, which is within the Communion Rails, and is a fair Tomb of Alabaſter, with his Effigies lying on it at full Length, with a fine Inſcription upon it in Latin, greatly to his Honour; but which being very long, I have not Room to inſert.

Here was formerly a Palace belonging to the Arch⯑biſhop of York, which ſtood on the South Side of the Church, the Ruins of which ſtill remain; by which it appears to have been a large and ſtately Building. It was demoliſhed in the Time of the late Civil Wars. The Church eſcaped the Fury of thoſe Times, by the good Offices of one Edward Cludd, Eſquire, one of the Parliament Side, who lived at Norwood, in the Pariſh of Southwell, in a Houſe belonging to the Archbiſhop. Here were no leſs than three Parks belonging to the Archbiſhop, which, though diſparked, ſtill retain the Name; one of which is Norwood Park, in which is a good Houſe, which, has been very much inlarged and beautified by Mr. Burton, a Deſcendant of the above Edward Cludd, Eſq who lives in it ſome Part of the Year.

There is a Free-ſchool adjoining to the Church, under the Care of the Chapter, where the Choir⯑iſters are taught gratis, and other Boys belonging to the Town. The Maſter is choſen by the Cha⯑pter, and is to be approved by the Archbiſhop of York.

There are alſo two Fellowſhips and two Scholar⯑ſhips in St. John's College in Cambridge, founded by Dr. Keton, Canon of Saliſbury, in the 22d Year of [64] King Henry VIII. to be choſen by the Maſter and Fellows of the ſaid College out of ſuch as have been Choiriſters of the Church of Southwell.

From Southwell I turned to the Left to Newſted, to viſit the antient Seat of the very antient Family of the Byrons, who even in the Conqueror's Time were wealthy. It was a ſmall Priory founded by King Henry II. and given by King Henry VIII to Sir John Byron; one of which Name having ſignalized himſelf very remarkably for his Loyalty to King Charles I. was created a Baron, which Honour ſtill continues in the Family. Near this Place is the Head of the little River Lin.

We came next to Ainſley, which Town gave Name to a Family that were poſſeſſed of it from the Conqueſt to the Time of King Henry VI. from whence are deſcended the Earls of Angleſey: but for want of Heirs Male, it came then by Marriage into the Family of the Chaworths, who have a good Seat here, well wooded, and watered with beauti⯑ful Fiſh-ponds.

We then turned again on the Right to Mansfield, which lies in the Foreſt, a large well-built Market-town, noted now for its Trade in Malt, and for have⯑ing been formerly the Place, to which the Kings of England uſed to retire for the Pleaſure of Hunting in the Foreſt of Shirwood; inſomuch that a Manor was held in this County by Henry Fauconberg for Shoeing the King's Horſe, whenever he came to Mansfield.

From hence we kept ſtill to the Right North-eaſt, and came to Taxford in the Clays, an ordinary, dirty Market-town on the great Road to York, and of no other Note, than being ſituated in a miry, clayey Country, and call'd by King James I. Taxford in the T—d.

We kept the Road North to Eaſt Retford, ſo called as it lies on the Eaſt Side of the River Idle. It [65] is an antient Bailiwick-town, and noted for an Ex⯑emption of all Tolls and foreign Services. It holds Pleas without Limitation of Sums, and enjoys many other valuable Privileges and Immunities. It has a Steward who is generally a Perſon of Quality.

Weſt Retford is ſo call'd from its Situation in regard to the other, tho' they ſeem to be but one Town, the Idle only dividing them. This is famous for a fine Hoſpital, founded by Dr. Dorrel in 1666, and ſince incorporated. It has a Maſter, 10 Brethren, a Steward, and a Nurſe; and they have a Garden and Orchard divided into 10 Shares.

Chaworth is a Village juſt by, noted for a fine Rectory of 200l. a Year.

Higher up ſtands Blith, which is a kind of Mar⯑ket-town, where are a very large good Church, and ſome old Ruins of a Caſtle and a Priory.

We then fell down Southward, and viſited the noble Seats of the Duke of Kingſton at Thoreſby, of the Lord Oxford at Welbeck, and of the late Marquis of Halifax, but now of Sir George Savil, at Rufford, or Rugford Abbey, all very magnificent Structures though antient, eſpecially that at Welbeck, which is beautified with large Additions, fine Apartments, and good Gardens; but particularly the Park, which is well ſtocked with large Timber of the fineſt Kind, and with great Numbers of Deer. For the late Duke of Newcaſtle's Delight (whoſe Property it was, before it came by Marriage into the Harley Family) being chiefly on Horſeback, and in the Chace, it is not to be wondered, if he rather made his Parks fine than his Gardens, and his Stables than his Manſion-houſe: yet the Houſe is noble, large, and magnificent.

Hard by Welbeck, near the Head of the River Ryton, is Wirkſop Manor, the ſometime ſtately Seat of the noble Family of Talbot, deſcended by a long Line of Anceſtors from another Family illuſtrious, [66] though not innobled, of Lovetofts; one of whom being Lord of this Place under the Normans, built a Priory here: and John, the ſecond Earl of Shrewſ⯑bury, being ſlain at the Battle of Northampton, 38 Henry VI. was buried in it; which afterwards, at the Diſſolution of Monaſteries, was ſettled on Francis, his Great Grandſon. This Houſe (though in its an⯑tient Figure) is outdone by none of the beſt and greateſt in the County. It now belongs to the Duke of Norfolk.

Here is a good Market-town alſo, of the Name of Wirkſop, where are the Ruins of a Monaſtery to be ſeen in the Meadows on the Eaſt Side of it, and the Weſt End of the Church, which is ſtill ſtanding, and has Two beautiful and fair Towers. This Place is noted for Liquorice and Malt.

From hence leaving Nottinghamſhire, the Weſt Part of which abounds with Lead and Coal, we came to Balſover in Derbyſhire, which ſtands on a riſing Ground, and has a Caſtle, and is the Property of the Duke of Newcaſtle, but is no Market-town.

From hence we intended to paſs directly to Derby; but being informed, that the Moors, by reaſon of the Rocks and Bogs which render the Roads difficult and hazardous, were too dangerous to travel over, we left them on the Weſt of us; and paſſing thro' Mansfield in Nottinghamſhire, and Alfreton a ſmall Market-town within the Skirts of Derbyſhire, we arriv'd at Derby the County-town. But tho' we avoided the Moors, yet we had ſome Reaſon to com⯑plain of the Roads, which we took from the North of Nottinghamſhire, where we were informed, that if we had come directly from Nottingham to this Town, and kept the Mid-way between the Trent on the Left, and the Mountains on the Right, we ſhould have found the 12 Miles, which lie between them, as agreeable with reſpect to the Situation of the Coun⯑try, [67] the Soil, and the well planting of it, as any of the ſame Length in England.

The Town of Derby is ſituate on the Weſt Bank of the Derwent, over which it has a very fine Stone Bridge, well-built, but antient, and a Chapel upon the Bridge, now converted into a Dwelling-houſe. It is a fine, beautiful, and pleaſant Town, and has more Families of Gentlemen in it, than is uſual in Towns ſo remote; perhaps the more, becauſe the Peak, which takes up the larger Part of the County, is ſo inhoſpitable, rugged, and wild a Place, that the Gentry chuſe to reſide at Derby, rather than upon their Eſtates, as they do elſewhere.

Here is a Curioſity of a very extraordinary Na⯑ture, and the only one of the Kind in England: I mean thoſe Mills on the Derwent, which work the three capital Italian Engines for making Organzine or Thrown Silk, which, before theſe Mills were erected, was purchaſed by the Engliſh Merchants with ready Money in Italy; by which Invention one Hand will twiſt as much Silk, as before could be done by Fifty, and that in a much truer and better Manner. This Engine contains 26,586 Wheels, and 97,746 Movements, which work 73,726 Yards of Silk-thread, every time the Water-wheel goes round, which is three times in one Minute, and 318,504,960 Yards in one Day and Night. One Water-wheel gives Motion to all the reſt of the Wheels and Movements, of which any one may be ſtopt ſeparately. One Fire-engine, likewiſe, conveys warm Air to every individual Part of the Machine, and the whole Work is govern'd by one Regulator. The Houſe which contains this Engine is of a vaſt Bulk, and Five or Six Stories high.

A Patent paſſed 5 George I. to ſecure to Sir Thomas Lombe the ſole Property of this Invention for 14 Years; but the requiſite Buildings and Engines, and the inſtructing of proper Perſons to work them, took [68] up ſo much Time, and when all was completed, the King of Sardinia prohibiting the Importation of the Raw Silk made by the ſaid Engines, into his Domi⯑nions, all which render'd the Undertaking expen⯑ſive and difficult, and the Term of 14 Years being near elapſed, without any great Benefit accruing from the uſeful Invention, Sir Thomas apply'd for a Con⯑ſideration from the Publick; and the Parliament ac⯑cordingly, to preſerve ſo uſeful an Undertaking for the Benefit of the Kingdom in general, allotted 14000l. to be paid to Sir Thomas, on Condition that he ſhould allow a perfect Model to be taken of his new-invented Engines, in order to ſecure and perpetuate the Art of making the ſame. The Preamble to this Act ſets forth, That Sir Thomas Lombe did with the utmoſt Difficulty and Hazard, and at a very great Expence, diſcover the Art of making and working the Three Capital Engines made uſe of by the Ita⯑lians to make their Organzine Silk, and did intro⯑duce thoſe Arts and Inventions into this King⯑dom.

This wonderful Piece of Machinery was under the Direction of Sir Thomas Lombe, or, as ſome ſay, of his Brother, erected by one Soracole, a Man ex⯑pert in making Mill-work, eſpecially for raiſing Wa⯑ter to ſupply Towns for Family Uſe.

Derby, as I have ſaid, is a Town of Gentry, ra⯑ther than Trade; yet it is populous, well-built, has Five Pariſhes, a large Market-place, a beautiful Town-houſe of Free-ſtone, and very handſome Streets. But the Entrance into it every Way is ſo choaked up with Dirt and Mire, that it is no ſmall Matter of Reproach to the Inhabitants.

In the Church of All Saints is the Burial-place of the noble Cavendiſh Family; and an Hoſpital cloſe by the Church, built by one of that Family, for Eight poor Men, and Four Women.

[69]This Church is remarkable for the Architecture of its beautiful Gothick Tower, 178 Feet high; and for the Elegance of its Ornaments, as well as Height, is not to be equalled in this, or in any of the adjacent Counties.

According to an Inſcription in this Church, the Steeple was erected about Queen Mary's Reign, at the Charge of the Maidens and Batchelors of the Town; on which Account, whenever a Maiden, a Native of the Town, was married, the Bells uſed to be rung by Batchelors. How long the Cuſtom laſted, I have not read; but I do not find it is now continued. This Union of the Maidens and Batchelors to build a Steeple, reminds me of a Bell caſt by a like Contri⯑bution, upon which was this Device, ‘Materiem Juvenes, Formam tribuere Puellae.’

The Government of this Town is in a Mayor, High Steward, 9 Aldermen, a Recorder, 14 Brothers, 14 Capital Burgeſſes, and a Town Clerk. What Trade there is in the Town is chiefly in good Malt and good Ale.

Beyond Derby, along the Ricning Way, is Burton upon Trent, where is a Bridge of 37 Arches. Here was an old Abbey, out of whoſe Ruins they have within theſe few Years built a new Church.

A Mile below Derby, upon the Derwent, ſtood the old Roman Derventio, now Little Cheſter. Remains of the old Walls, Vaults, Wells, Roman Coins, Aqueducts, Human Bones, Braſs Rings, and other Marks of Antiquity, have been from time to time diſcovered and dug up. The River being too rapid for a Ford, a Bridge was antiently there, the Foun⯑dations of which with a Staff they can ſtill feel.

A little further North, is Horreſton Caſtle, whoſe Ruins on a hoary Rock, are ſcarce diſcernible.

[70]It is obſervable, that as the Trent bounds the County of Derby South, ſo the Dove and the Erwaſh make the Bounds Eaſt and Weſt, and the Derwent runs thro' the Centre, all of them beginning and ending their Courſe in the ſame County; for they riſe in the Peak, and end in the Trent. The Der⯑went is remarkable for its Brownneſs, the Dove for its blue Tranſparency, from whence it probably took its Name. It is endued with ſuch a peculiar Fecun⯑dity, ſuppoſed to ariſe from a Bed of Lime, thro' which it paſſes, that it has often been compared to the River Nile.

It is not leſs ſwift in its Operations than effectual; for by haſty Rains, which fall from the Hills, it ſome⯑times ſtrays over the Meadows, and having impreg⯑nated them, in 12 Hours time retires into its Bed again.

It was in one of theſe temporary Inundations I ſaw it, when having gone from Derby to Dowbridge, as it is called, I paſſed it with Difficulty to ſee Two Market-towns, Aſhbourn, and Utoxeter, the Utocetum of the Antients.

The firſt lies on the Eaſt Side of the River in a very rich Soil to the North-weſt of Derby, and the other, commonly called Utceſter, is ſituate due Weſt of Derby, on the other Side of the River in Staf⯑fordſhire, upon a delicious riſing Ground of an eaſy Aſcent, and very fruitful, overlooking a Track of fine, rich Meadow-grounds. The Town is very ordinarily built, but has a good and commodious Market-place, and an excellent Market for all ſorts of living Kine, beſides Butter, Cheeſe, and Corn, and alſo all kinds of Proviſions.

In our Way to the High Peak we paſſed an antient Seat, large, but not very gay, of Sir Nathanael Cur⯑ſon. From hence we kept the Derwent on our Right-hand, which having overflowed its Banks, by the Acceſſion of Floods pouring down from the Peak [71] Hills, render'd it ſo frightful, that we contented our⯑ſelves with hearing at a Diſtance its ſhocking Roar; and ſo came to Quarn, or Quarnden, a little ragged, but noted Village, where is a famous Chalybeat Spring, to which abundance of People reſort in the Seaſon to drink the Water; as likewiſe a Cold Bath. There are alſo ſeveral other Mineral Waters in this Part of the Country, a hot Bath at Matlock, and an⯑other at Buxton, of which in their Places. Beſides theſe, there are hot Springs in ſeveral Places which run waſte into the Ditches and Brooks, and are taken no notice of, being remote among the Moun⯑tains, and out of the Way of common Reſort.

We found the Wells at Quarn pretty full of Com⯑pany, the Waters good, and very phyſical, but wretched Lodging and Entertainment.

From Quarnden we advanced due North, and mounting the Hills gradually for Four or Five Miles, we ſoon had a moſt diſmal View of the black Mountains of the Peak; however, as they were at a Diſtance, and a good Town lay on our Left, called Wirkſworth, we turned thither for Refreſhment. Here we found verify'd what I had often heard be⯑fore, that however dreary the Hills might appear, the Vales were every-where fruitful and delightful to the Eye, alſo well-inhabited, and having in them good Market-towns, abounding with all neceſſary Proviſions; and as for the Ale, the further we went Northward, the better it ſeemed to be.

Wirkſworth is a large well-frequented Market-town; tho' there is no very great Trade carry'd on in it, but what relates to the Lead-works.

The Peakrills, as they are called, are a rude booriſh kind of People; but bold, daring, and even deſpe⯑rate in their Search into the Bowels of the Earth: for which Reaſon they are often imployed by our Engineers in the Wars to carry on the Sap, when they lay Siege to ſtrong fortified Places.

[72]The Barmoot Court, kept at Wirkſworth, to judge Controverſies among the Miners, and adjuſt ſubter⯑ranean Quarrels and Diſputes, is very remarkable. It conſiſts of a Maſter and 24 Jurors, who, when any Perſon has found a Vein of Ore in another's Land, (except it be in Orchards or Gardens) aſſign two Meres of Ground in a Pipe (as they term it) and a Flat, the former being 29 Yards long, and the lat⯑ter 14 Yards Square, appointing to the Finder one Mere, and the other to the Owner of the Land, half at each End of the Finder's; and moreover, certain Fees and Perquiſites for the Paſſage of Carts, the Uſe of Timber, and the like. This Court not only preſcribes Rules to the Miners, and limits their Pro⯑ceedings in the Works under-ground, but is Judge of all their little Quarrels above.

The Produce of the Mines in this Hundred is very conſiderable: the King claims the 13th Peny Duty, for which they compound at the Rate of 1000l. a Year; nay, I have been informed, that the Tythe of Wirkſworth alone has been worth to the Incumbent yearly that Sum.

Not far from hence lies Hartington, which gives Title of Marquis to the eldeſt Son of the Duke of Devonſhire.

Near Wirkſworth, and upon the very Edge of Derwent, is a Village called Matlock, where, as I ſaid, are ſeveral warm Springs. One of theſe is ſe⯑cured by a Stone Wall on every Side, by which the Water is brought to riſe to a due Height; and if it is too high, there is a Sluice to let it out as low as you pleaſe. It has a Houſe built over it, and room within the Building to walk round the Bath, and ſo by Steps go down gradually into it. The Water is but juſt Milk-warm, ſo that it is no leſs pleaſant to go into, than ſanative.

This Bath would be much more frequented than it is, if a ſad, ſtony, mountainous Road, which leads [73] to it, and no good Accommodation when you are there, did not hinder; for from the Bath you are to croſs over the Meadows, and then aſcend a Derby⯑ſhire Hill, before you meet with a Houſe of Refreſh⯑ment.

For ſome Miles before you come to Matlock, you paſs over barren Moors in perpetual Danger of ſlip⯑ping into Coal-pits and Lead-mines, or ride for Miles together on the Edge of a ſteep Hill on ſolid ſlippery Rock, or looſe Stones, with a Valley underneath, the Bottom of which you can hardly diſcover with your Eye. Inſtead of Trees and Hedges, they fence⯑in their poor Meadow for Arable, with Walls made of looſe Stones, pick'd from under their Feet. The extended Sides of the Mountains are generally pow⯑der'd over, as it were, with Rocks, Streams of Water dribbling down every where, and ſometimes bolder Cataracts diverſify the romantick Scene.

At the Smelting-mills, they melt down the Lead Ore, and run it into a Mold, whence it becomes Pigs, as they call them. The Bellows are kept in continual Motion by running Water. We were complimented to be let down 200 Yards deep into the Mines, if we pleas'd. Over-againſt this warm Bath, and on the Eaſt-ſide of the Derwent, we came to a monſtrous Parcel of gigantick Rocks, ſeemingly pil'd on one another, called the Torr. A few Inhabitants in little Cottages truſted themſelves at Bottom, under ſo ruinous a Shelter. I took the Pains on Hands and Knees to clamber near the Top, and enter'd an Hermit's Cell hewn in the Rock, with a moſt dreary Proſpect before it. On one End is a Crucifix and a little Nich, where I ſuppoſe the An⯑chorite plac'd his Saint. Over-againſt it, about half a Mile off, is ſuch another Cliff, but by the Care of a Gentleman who lives underneath, Mr. Aſhe, is hewn out of the Rock an eaſy Aſcent by Steps, and there are abundance of Alcoves, Grotts, Summer-houſes, [74] Cellars, Pinacles, Dials, Baluſtrades, Urns, &c. all of the ſame Materials. And by the Help of Earth carry'd up to the Top, there are fine Graſs Walks, with Greens planted along them upon this hanging Terrace; whence you have a fine View over many a craggy Mountain.

A little on the other Side of Wirkſworth begins a long Plain, called Braſſington Moor, which reaches from Braſſington to Buxton, full 12 Miles: from Wirkſworth it is not quite ſo much. The Peak People, who are mighty fond of raiſing the Admi⯑ration of Strangers, told us here of another high Mountain, where a Giant was buried, which they called the Giant's Tomb.

We rode up the Hill, which ſeem'd to be round, with a Precipice almoſt on every Side of it. While we were in queſt of the Tomb of the Dead, we found the Rock afforded an Habitation for a poor Woman and her Children. We entered into their Manſion, divided by a Curtain into its ſeveral Offices, and a Funnel work'd thro' the Top to carry the Smoke out, where the celebrated Tombſtone was. Her Huſband, ſhe ſaid, was a Miner, who, if he had good Luck, could earn his Five Pence, and ſhe could alſo earn her Three Pence a Day, were it not for the Care of ſo many Children; but, ſhe bleſſed God, they lived very comfortably. An Inſtance of that happy Contentment oftener met with in Habitations like this, than in gilded Palaces!

We went next, by the Direction of the good Wo⯑man, to a Valley on the Side of a riſing Hill, where were ſeveral Grooves (for ſo they call the Mouth of the Shaft, or Pit, by which they go down into a Lead Mine). As we were ſtanding ſtill to look at one of them, admiring how ſmall they were, and ſcarce be⯑lieving a poor Man, who told us they went down thoſe narrow Holes to a great Depth in the Earth, we were ſurpriſed with ſeeing a Hand, and then an [75] Arm, and quickly after a Head, thruſt up out of the very Groove we were looking at.

Immediately we rode cloſer up to the Place, where we ſaw the poor Wretch working and heav⯑ing himſelf up gradually, as we thought, with Diffi⯑culty; but when he ſhewed us that it was by ſetting his Feet and Elbows upon Pieces of Wood fixt croſs the Angles of the Groove like a Ladder, we found the Difficulty was not much, and that if the Groove had been larger, he could not go up and down with ſo much Eaſe or Safety.

Thoſe who would have a more perfect Idea of thoſe Grooves, need only ſee the ſquare Wells in the Church of St. Paul, by which the Workmen go down from the Top of the Church into the very Vaults under it, to place the Leaden Pipes, which carry the Rain Water from the Flat of the Roof to the Common-ſewer. They have ſmall Iron Bars placed croſs the Angles for the Men to ſet their Feet on, in the manner here repreſented.

When this ſubterranean Creature was come quite out, with all his Furniture about him, he afforded us new matter of Wonder, which ſatisfy'd our Cu⯑rioſity without venturing down ourſelves. For the Man was a moſt uncouth Spectacle; he was cloathed all in Leather, had a Cap of the ſame without Brims, ſome Tools in a little Baſket, which he drew up with him, not one of the Names of which we could underſtand, but by the Help of an Interpreter. Nor indeed could we underſtand any of the Man's Diſ⯑courſe, ſo as to make out a whole Sentence, and yet he was pretty free of his Tongue too. He was lean as a Skeleton, pale as a dead Corps, his Hair and Beard a deep black; what little Fleſh he had, was lank, and, as we thought, ſomething of the Colour of the Lead itſelf. Beſides his Baſket of Tools, he brought up with him about three Quarters of a hun⯑dred [76] Weight of Ore, which was no ſmall Load, con⯑ſidering the Manner of his coming up; and it was this which occaſioned that Heaving and Struggling at his firſt Appearance; and it ſeems he was at work 60 Fathoms deep, but that there were five Men of his Party, two of whom were 11 Fathoms, and the other three 15 Fathoms deeper. The Man ſeemed to regret, that he was not at work with theſe three; for they had a Way out at the Side of the Hill, without coming up ſo high as he was obliged to do. We then looked on the Ore, and got the poor Man's Leave to bring every one a ſmall Piece of it away with us, for which we gave him two Pieces of better Metal.

From hence entering upon Braſſington Moor, men⯑tioned above, we had eight Miles ſmooth Green Riding to Buxton Bath, which they call One of the Seven Wonders of the Peak, compriſed in that noted Verſe of Mr. Hobbs,

This Place has ſome Advantages beyond what the City of Bath can pretend to. Here is an open and healthy Country, a Variety of fine Views to enter⯑tain the Curious, and a beautiful Down for the Ladies to take the Air in, much more agreeable than the cloſe City of Bath, which is very deficient in this Parti⯑cular.

And as to the Medicinal Nature of the Waters at Buxton, hear what Dr. Leigh ſays of their Virtues, and the Manner of their Operation, in his Natural Hiſtory of Lancaſhire, and of the Peak. His Words are as follow:

The Village where the principal Springs are, is called Buxton, tho' there are ſeveral of them; for they riſe unregarded in the Banks of the Incloſures, and on the Sides of the Hill, ſo that their Number is hardly known.

The Duke of Devonſhire, Lord of the Village, has built a large and convenient Houſe for the Re⯑ception of Strangers. The Bath-room is arched over⯑head, and the Whole made handſome, convenient, and delightful. This Collection of tepid Waters, exceeding clear, will receive 20 People at a time to walk and [78] ſwim in. The Temper of the Water is equal to new Milk, or Blood-warm, procuring a moderate Perſpiration. Its Effect is remarkable for giving that gentle Relaxation of the Solids; which takes off the Wearineſs and Fatigue of a Journey, and refreſhes inſtantly. 'Tis phyſically uſeful in many Caſes, and may be indulg'd in more, than the Hot-baths of Somerſetſhire, which frequently do Harm thro' impru⯑dent Uſe. Such a one as this naturally is, was aimed at by the ſumptuous Bagnio's of the Roman Em⯑perors.

Sir Thomas Delves, who received a Cure here, gave the Pump, and a pretty Stone Alcove over the Drink⯑ing-ſpring in the Yard. The Water may be raiſed at pleaſure to any Height. We found in one of the Rooms theſe Verſes written upon the Wall by a Phyſician who formerly frequented the Place:

Which may be thus tranſlated:

As to the Antiquity of theſe Baths, tho' there is not a King Bladud to teſtify for them, as for thoſe at Bath in Somerſetſhire, yet the learned Author [79] above-mentioned obſerves, ‘"That it is certain they were eminent in the Time of the Romans. Lu⯑can and others acquaint us, that they were extra⯑ordinary hot, &c. and the High-road, called the Roman Bath-gate, as Mr. Camden ſays, farther confirms it. But it is eſpecially evident from a Roman Wall cemented with red Roman Plaiſter, cloſe by St. Anne's Well, where we may ſee the Ruins of the antient Bath, its Dimenſions, and Length."’

The Queen of Scots took her Leave of this Place with a Diſtich of Julius Caeſar, ſomewhat altered, which is ſtill ſhewn, written with a Diamond on a Pane of Glaſs, as the laſt Claſſical Authority of Anti⯑quity:

About half a Mile off is that ſtupendous Cavern, called Poole's-hole, at the Foot of a great Mountain, and deemed the Second Wonder of the Peak. The Entrance is ſo low and narrow, that you muſt ſtoop to get in; but immediately it dilates into a wide and lofty Concavity, which reaches above a Quarter of a Mile end-wiſe, and farther, as they ſay. Some old Women with lighted Candles are Guides in this dark Way. Water drops every-where from the Roof, and incruſts all the Stones with long Cryſtals and Fluors, whence a thouſand imaginary Figures are ſhewn you by the Name of Lions, Fonts, Lanterns, Organs, Flitch of Bacon, &c. At length you come to the Queen of Scots Pillar, as the Boun⯑dary of moſt Peoples Curioſity. It was ſo named by that unhappy Princeſs, when ſhe viſited this [80] Place: Nor needed ſhe any other Monument; for, by this Incident, ſhe may be ſaid to have erected one to her Memory, which will probably laſt as long as the Works of Nature; tho' every one almoſt that comes hither, carries away a Piece of it, in Memory of the Princeſs, or the Place. It is a clear bright Stone like Alabaſter, or rather like that kind of Spar, which is found about Lead; and conſidering the Country where it grows, is probably ſomething of that Sort.

A Stream of Water runs along the Middle, among the falling Rocks, with a hideous Noiſe, re-echo'd from all Sides of the horrid Concave. On the Left-hand is a Sort of Chamber, where they ſay Poole, a famous Robber, lived, and whoſe Kit⯑chen, as well as Bed-chamber, they ſhew you, after you have crept 10 Yards on all Fours.

The moſt ſurpriſing Thing you meet with in it, is the extraordinary Height of the Arch, which how⯑ever is far from what a late Author has magnified it to, a Quarter of a Mile perpendicular. Dr. Leigh ſpends ſome Time in admiring the ſpangled Roof. Cotton and Hobbes are exceedingly witty upon it. Dr. Leigh calls it Fret-work, Organ, and Choir-work. The Whole of the Matter is this: The Rock being every-where moiſt and dropping, ſome of the Drops are fallen, which you ſee below; ſome are falling, and others are pendent in the Roof. Now, as you have Guides before you and behind, carrying every one a Candle, the Light of the Candles, reflected by the globular Drops of Water, dazle your Eyes like the Dew in a Sun-ſhine Morning; whereas, were any Part of the Arch of this Vault to be ſeen by a clear Light, all this Beauty would diſappear.

Let any Perſon therefore, who goes into Poole's Hole, and has a Mind to make the Experiment, take a long Pole in his Hand, with a Cloth tied to the End of it, and wipe the Drops of Water away, he [81] will at once extinguiſh all thoſe Glories. Then let him wait till other Drops emerge, and he will find the Stars and Spangles glittering as before.

As to the ſeveral Stones, called Cotton's Stone, Haycock's Stone, Poole's Chair, Flitch of Bacon, and the like, they do not enough reſemble what they are ſaid to repreſent, as to be the Foundation of even a Poetick Metamorphoſis.

The petrifying Water indeed might have exerciſed Ovid's Fancy: for you ſee Drops pendent like Icicles, or riſing up like Pyramids, and hardening into Stone, juſt the Reverſe of what the Poet de⯑ſcribes of Stones being ſoften'd into Men.

The Third Wonder of the Peak is Mam Tor, or, as the Word in the Mountain Jargon, or rather in the Britiſh, ſignifies, the Mother Rock, (for Mam is the Britiſh Word for Mother) upon a Suggeſtion, that the ſoft crumbling Earth, which falls from its Summit, produces ſeveral other Mountains below. The Whole of the Wonder is this: On the South Side of this Hill is a Precipice, very ſteep from the Top to the Bottom; and the Subſtance being of a crumb⯑ling looſe Earth mingled with ſmall Stones, is con⯑tinually falling down in ſmall Quantities, as the heavy Rains looſen and waſh it off, or as Froſts and Thaws operate upon it. Now, the great Hill, which is thick, as well as high, parts with this looſe Stuff, without being ſenſibly diminiſhed; ſo the Bottom, into which it falls, being narrow, is more eaſily per⯑ceived to ſwell. Here then is the pretended Won⯑der, That the little Heap below ſhould grow up into a Hill, without any Decreaſe of the great Hill, as it ſhould ſeem, notwithſtanding ſo much has fallen from it. But the Fact is certainly otherwiſe, tho' not perceivable.

This Hill lies on the North Side of the Road from Buxton to Caſtleton, at which Place you come to the Fourth much famed Wonder, ſtyled The Devil's [82] Arſe in the Peak. The ſhort Account of it is this: On the ſteep Side of a Mountain is a large Open⯑ing, almoſt in the Form of an old Gothick Arch, from its Centre, only that the Entrance is horizontal. It is upwards of 30 Feet perpendicular, and twice as much broad at the Bottom at leaſt.

It continues thus wide but a little Way, yet far enough to have ſeveral ſmall Cottages built on either Side of it within the Entrance, like a little Town in a Vault. In the Middle, as it were, of the Street, is a running Stream of Water: in poetical De⯑ſcriptions it is called a River, tho' not the River Styx.

As you go on, the Roof deſcends gradually, and is now ſo far from having Houſes, that a Man can⯑not ſtand upright in it till ſtooping for a little Way, and paſſing over another Rill of Water, likewiſe called a River, you find more Room over your Head. But going a little farther, you come to a third Water, which croſſes your Way; and the Rock ſtooping, as it were, down almoſt to the Surface of the Water, puts an End to the Traveller's Search.

But when we read in Scripture, that the Caves of Adullam and Macpelah were able to receive David and his Troop of 400 Men, and what Travellers relate of a Cave in the Apennine Mountains, near Florence, large enough to contain an Army; and when we know, that there are many others in the Alpes, and the Hills of Dauphiné and Savoy, and other Parts of the World; this ſurely can be thought no Wonder, unleſs we credit Gervaiſe of Tilbury, who tells us of a Shepherd, that ventured into the third River in this Den, and being either carried over it, or down the Stream, he knew not whether, ſaw a beautiful heavenly Country beyond it, with a ſpa⯑cious Plain, watered with many clear Rivers, pleaſant Brooks, and ſeveral Lakes of ſtanding Water.

[83] Caſtleton takes its Name from the Caſtle that lies near it, which is a very antient Building, and ſo ſituated as to be only one Way acceſſible, being erected on an high ſteep Rock; and the Way, that goes to it, is ſo full of Twinings and Turnings, that it is Two Miles from the Bottom to the Top.

Not far off is a little Village called Burgh, fre⯑quented by the Romans, on account of the Baths, as appears evidently by a Cauſway leading from hence thither.

The Fifth Wonder is called Tideſwell, or Weeden⯑well, a Spring which, according to ſome Writers, ebbs and flows, as the Sea does. The Baſin, or Receiver for the Water, is about Three Foot Square; the Water ſeems to have ſome other Receiver with⯑in the Rock, which, when it fills by the Force of the original Stream, the Air being contracted, or pent in, forces the Water out with a bubbling Noiſe, and ſo fills the Receiver without; but when the Force is ſpent within, then it ſtops till the Place is filled again; and, in the mean time, the Water with⯑out runs off, till the Quantity within ſwells again, and then the ſame Cauſe produces the ſame Effect. So that this Oceanet, as Mr. Cotton calls it, which has been the Subject of ſeveral Philoſophick Inqui⯑ries, is owing wholly to the Figure of the Place, and is only a mere Accident in Nature; and if any Per⯑ſon were to dig into the narrow Cavities, and give vent to the Air, which is pent up within, they would ſoon ſee Tideſwell turned into an ordinary Stream.

This Spring lies near the little Market-town of Tiddeſwall, wherein are a very good Church, and a Free-ſchool.

So much for the Five fictitious Wonders: I come now to the Two real Wonders, Elden Hole, and the Duke of Devonſhire's fine Houſe at Chatſworth; the one natural, the other artificial.

[84]In the Middle of a plain open Field, gently de⯑ſcending to the South, is this frightful Chaſm in the Earth, or rather in the Rock, called Elden Hole. The Mouth of it is about 20 Feet over one Way, and 50 or 60 the other, deſcending down perpendi⯑cular to the Earth; how deep, could never yet be diſcovered, notwithſtanding ſeveral Attempts have been made to find its Bottom. Mr. Cotton ſays, he let down 800 Fathom of Line, which is 1600 Yards, near a Mile perpendicular.

The Author has poetically enough deſcribed the Noiſe the huge maſſy Stones make, which the Coun⯑try People often throw down here. The Hiſſing of Spears and Arrows is ſeldom omitted in Poetry to deſcribe the Terror they bring: he has here improved a ſimilar Noiſe into a Mark of Fear.

They tell a diſmal Story here of a Traveller, who inquiring his Way to Caſtleton, or to Buxton, in a dark Night, two Villains offered to guide him; but, intending to rob him, led him to the Edge of this Gulph, and either thruſt him in, or made him be⯑lieve there was a little Gull of Water, and bad him take a large Step, which he did into this Abyſs, and into that of Eternity at the ſame time. One of the [85] Villains, being hanged at Derby ſome Years after for ſome other Roguery, confeſſed this diabolical Action at the Gallows.

It raiſes an Horror in the Imagination, when one does but look into this frightful Hole; and ſo I ſhall leave it with the Words of the forementioned Author, who, ſuppoſing it one of the Entrances to the Infernal World, ſays,

I come now to the magnificent Seat of the Earls and Dukes of Devonſhire, called Chatſworth-houſe.

This glorious Fabrick may be ſaid to have had two or three different Founders, who have all improved upon one another, in the Completion of this great Deſign.

The Houſe was begun on a much narrower Plan than it now takes up, by Sir William Cavendiſh of Cavendiſh in Suffolk, who by Marriage with the Counteſs Dowager of Shrewſbury, became intitled to a noble Fortune in this Country.

Sir William died, after having done little more than build one End of the Fabrick, and lay out the Plan of the Whole. But his Lady finiſhed it in the mag⯑nificent manner which it appeared in, when it was was firſt ranked among the Wonders of the Peak. And if it deſerved to be ſo ranked then, how much more does it now, with the additional Improvements made by the firſt Duke of Devonſhire!

One Thing is obſervable, That the very Diſad⯑vantages of Situation contribute to the Beauty of the Place, and, by the moſt exquiſite Management, are made ſubſervient to the Builder's Deſign. On the Eaſt Side, not far diſtant, riſes a prodigious high [86] Mountain, which is ſo thick planted with beautiful Trees, that you only ſee a riſing Wood gradually aſcending, as if the Trees crouded one above the other to admire the ſtately Pile before them.

Upon the Top of this Mountain they dig Mill⯑ſtones; and here begins a vaſt extended Moor, which for 15 or 16 Miles together due North, has neither Hedge, Houſe, or Tree, but a waſte and houling Wilderneſs, over which, when Strangers travel, 'tis impoſſible to find their Way without Guides.

Nothing can be more ſurpriſing of its Kind, to a Traveller, who comes from the North, when, after a tedious Progreſs thro' ſuch a diſmal Deſart, on a ſudden the Guide brings him to this Precipice, where he looks down from a comfortleſs, barren, and, as he thought, endleſs Moor, into the moſt delightful Valley, and ſees a beautiful Palace, adorn'd with fine Gardens. If Contraries illuſtrate each other, here they are ſeen in the ſtrongeſt Oppoſition. It is really ſurpriſing to think what a Genius it muſt be, that ſhould lay out ſo great a Deſign in ſuch a Place, where the Mountains intercept the Clouds, and threaten, were Earthquakes frequent here, to bury whole Towns, and, what ſeems equal to a Town, this Houſe, in their Ruins.

On the Plain, which extends from the Top of this Mountain, is a large Body of Water, which takes up near 30 Acres, and, from the Aſcents round it, receives, as into a Ciſtern, all the Water that falls; which, thro' Pipes, ſupplies the Caſcades, Waterworks, Ponds, and Canals, in the Gardens.

Before the Weſt Front of the Houſe, which is the moſt beautiful, and where the firſt Foundreſs built a very auguſt Portal, runs the River Derwent, which, tho' not many Miles here from its Source, yet is a ra⯑pid River, when, by haſty Rains, or the melting of Snows, the Hills pour down their Waters into its Chanel; for the Current, by reaſon of its many [87] contracted Paſſages among the Rocks, (Pieces of which, of an incredible Bulk, come ſometimes roll⯑ing down its Stream) on the leaſt Motion of its Waters, above their ordinary Height, roars like the Breaches on the Shores of the Sea.

Over this River is a ſtately Stone Bridge, with an antient Tower upon it, and in an Iſland in the River an antient Fabrick all of Stone, and built like a Caſtle; which are the Works of the ſaid Foundreſs, and ſhew the Greatneſs of the original Deſign; but are all, except the Bridge, eclipſed, as it were, by the modern Glories of the late Edifice.

The Front to the Garden is a regular Piece of Architecture. The Frize under the Cornice has the Motto of the Family upon it in gilt Letters, ſo large as to take up the whole Front, tho' the Words are theſe two, CAVENDO TVTVS; which is no leſs applicable to the Situation of the Houſe, than the Name of the Family.

The Saſhes of the ſecond Story, we were told, are 17 Feet high, of poliſhed Looking-glaſs, two Feet wide; and the Wood-work double-gilt.

Under this Front lie the Gardens exquiſitely fine; and, to make a clear Viſta or Proſpect beyond into the flat Country, towards Hardwick, another Seat of the ſame Owner, the Duke (to whom thoſe Things which others thought impoſſible, were practicable) removed a great Mountain that ſtood in the Way, and which interrupted the Proſpect.

In the uſual Approach to this noble Fabrick, it preſents itſelf thus: Firſt, the River, which in calm Weather glides gently by; then a venerable Walk of Trees, where the famous Hobbes uſed often to con⯑template; a noble Piece of Iron-work Gates and Baluſters, expoſe the Front of the Houſe and Court, terminated at the Corners next the Road with two large Stone Pedeſtals of Attick Work, curiouſly adorned with Trophies of War, and Utenſils of all [88] the Sciences, in Baſſo Relievo. This Part of the Building is Ionick, the Whole being a Square of a ſingle Order, but every Side of a different Model: a Court in the Middle with a Piazza of Dorick Columns of one Stone each, overlaid with prodigious Architraves. The Stone is of an excellent Sort, veined like Marble, hewn out of the neighbouring Quarries, and tumbled down the adjacent Hill. In the Ante-room to the Hall are flat Stones of 14 Feet ſquare, laid upon the Heads of Four Pillars, and ſo throughout. In the Hall-ſtairs the Landing-ſteps are of the ſame Di⯑menſions; the Doors, Chimneys, Window-caſes, Stairs, &c. all of Marble; the Ceilings and Walls of all the Apartments charged with rare Painting of Varrio, and other famous Hands; the Bath-room, all of Marble curiouſly wrought.

The Chapel is a moſt raviſhing Place; the Altar⯑end and Floor, Marble; the Seats and Gallery, Cedar; the reſt of the Wall and Ceiling, painted.

The Gardens abound with Green-houſes, Sum⯑mer-houſes, Walks, Wilderneſſes, Orangeries, with all the proper Furniture of Statues, Urns, Greens, &c. with Canals, Baſons, and Water-works of va⯑rious Forms and Contrivance; as Sea-horſes, Drakes, Dolphins, and other Fountains, that throw up the Water. An artificial Willow-tree of Copper ſpouts dropping Water from every Leaf. A wonderful Caſcade, where from a neat Houſe of Stone, like a Temple, out of the Mouths of Beaſts, Pipes, Urns, &c. a whole River deſcends, the Slope of a Hill a Quarter of a Mile in Length, over Steps, with a terrible Noiſe, and broken Appearance, till it is loſt under-ground. Beyond the Garden, upon the Hills, is a Park, and that over-look'd by a very high and rocky Mountain. Here are ſome Statues, and other Antiquities.

I ſhould never have done, were I to ſay all that might be ſaid of this auguſt Palace. But two hiſto⯑rical [89] Circumſtances in its Honour muſt not be for⯑gotten, viz. That Mary, Queen of Scots, whom we had occaſion to mention as a Viſitant of the Peak, was for 17 Years in Cuſtody in this Houſe, under the Care of the celebrated Foundreſs of it. In Memory of this Royal Captive, the new Lodgings, that are built inſtead of the old, are ſtill called the Queen's of Scots Apartment. Happy for her, could ſhe have been allow'd to have paid the ſame fine Compliment to the Owner of it, which the Count de Tallard did, and is our other hiſtorical Circumſtance, when he had been entertained for a few Days by the late Duke of Devonſhire: When I return, ſaid he, into my own Country, and reckon up the Days of my Captivity, I ſhall leave out thoſe I ſpent at Chatſworth.

I will cloſe all I have to ſay of this famous Pa⯑lace, as I may call it, with the following brief Ex⯑tract from the Letter of an ingenious Gentleman to his Friend:

There are likewiſe other Curioſities in the Peak which I need but juſt mention; as the Tottering Stones at Byrch Over, ſtanding upon a hard Rock, one of them ſaid to be four Yards high, 12 round, and yet reſts upon a Point ſo equally poiſed, that it may be moved with a Finger; the Roman Cauſe⯑way, called Bath-gate; the ſeveral Minerals found in the Hills, and in the Lead Mines, as Black Lead, Stibium, or Antimony, and Cryſtal.

Bakewell is the beſt Town in the North-weſt Side of the Peak: it lies on the Banks of the Wye, and has a good Market; the Pariſh is exempt from Epi⯑ſcopal Juriſdiction. Near this the Duke of Rutland has a very noble Palace, called Haddon, now intirely uninhabited. It was antiently the Seat of the Vernons, ſome of whom were Members of Parliament for this County as early as Edward III. Sir George Vernon, in Queen Elizabeth's Time, was ſtyled King of the Peak, and his Daughter being married to Thomas, the Son of the firſt Earl of Rutland, it came into the Family of the Manners.

The extended Angle of this County, which runs a great way North-weſt by Chappel in the Frith, (which was formerly a Market-town) and which they call High Peak, is perhaps the moſt deſolate, wild, and abandoned Country in Great Britain. The Mountains of the Peak, of which I have been ſpeaking, ſeem to be but the Beginning of Wonders to this Part of the Country; the Tops of whoſe Hills ſeem to be as much above the Clouds, as the Clouds are above the ordinary Hills.

[91]Nor is this all; the Countenance of theſe Moun⯑tains is ſuch, that they have no Bounds to them but the Sea; they run on in a continued Ridge from one to another, even to the Highlands in Scotland; ſo that they may be ſaid to divide Britain, as the Apennine Mountains divide Italy. Thus joining to Blackſtone Edge, they divide Yorkſhire from Lanca⯑ſhire, and going on North, divide the Biſhoprick of Durham from Weſtmorland, and ſo on. All the Rivers in the North of England take their Riſe from them; thoſe on the Eaſt Side run into the German Ocean, thoſe on the Weſt Side into the Iriſh: for inſtance, the Dove and the Derwent riſe both at the South End of them, and come away South to the Trent; but all the Rivers afterwards run, as above, Eaſt or Weſt; and firſt, the Merſee riſes on the Weſt Side, and the Dun on the Eaſt; the firſt runs to Warrington; and into the Sea at Liverpoole; the other to Doncaſter, and into the Sea at Humber. I ſhall confirm this Obſervation as I go on; for to give an Account of Rivers is the beſt Guide to the Geography of a Country. But to return to my Progreſs:

We went next to Cheſterfield, a handſome popu⯑lous Town, ſituate between Rivulets, on the South Side of a Hill, North-eaſt from Chatſworth, well built and well inhabited, notwithſtanding it ſtands in the Extremity of this rocky Country; for being on the North Side of the County next to Yorkſhire, it leads into the Hundred of Scarſdale, which is a rich fertile Part of the Country, tho' ſurrounded with barren Moors and Mountains, for ſuch the Name Scarſdale ſignifies. It is a Mayor-town of great Antiquity, and was made a free Borough by King John. It is now a Place of conſiderable Merchandice and Dealings in Lead, Grocery, Mercery, Melting of Barley, Tanning, Stockens, Blankets, Bedding, &c. in which they have great Intercourſe to and [92] with Yorkſhire, Nottinghamſhire, Lincolnſhire, Leiceſter⯑ſhire, and London; alſo to and with the Towns and Places of Bakewell, Tiddeſwell, Wirkſworth, Aſh⯑bourne, the Peak, and Weſt of Derbyſhire; with Cheſter, Mancheſter, Liverpoole, &c. It has a fair Church. The Spire of its Steeple, being Timber covered with Lead, is warped all awry. It has alſo a Free-ſchool, and a new large Market-place, which is well ſupply'd with Lead, and with the Commodities above-mention'd.

Dornfield is a ſmall Market-town, noted only for its high Situation, juſt on the Edge of the Peak.

We are now entered into the County of York, which is of larger Extent than any two Counties in England joined together, being in Compaſs 360 Miles. Its Figure is a large Square, and is adequate to the Dukedom of Wirtemburgh in Germany, and contains more Ground than all the Seven United Provinces. I was at firſt puzzled which way to direct my Courſe in this large County; but at laſt reſolved to ſtrike thro' the Middle of the County, and along the North-eaſt Part of the Weſt Riding, up as far as Rippon, which is about the Centre of the County.

This great County is divided into Three Ridings, North, Eaſt, and Weſt Riding. This laſt, which I chuſe firſt to ſpeak of, is much the largeſt and moſt populous, and has in it the greateſt Number of Towns, as well as the moſt conſiderable, and like⯑wiſe the beſt Manufactures, and conſequently the greateſt Share of Riches.

Sheffield, ſituated on a riſing Ground, is the firſt Town we came to from Derbyſhire. It is famous for Whittle-making, Cutlery Wares and Iron-work, there being a great many good Iron Mines about it, and likewiſe ſome of Alum. The Town is very antient, and has been always conſiderable, tho' no Corporation; and that it was noted, in Chaucer's [93] Time, for the ſame Trade, appears by thoſe Lines of his:

The Town is very populous and large, and the Houſes built with Stone, but look dark and black, by the continued Smoke of the Forges, which are always at Work; and the Streets are narrow. Here were ſet up the firſt Mills for turning Grind-ſtones in England.

The Church is very large and ſpacious, in the Form of a Croſs, and has a fine high Spire.

Sheffield is reputed to excel Birmingham in Cutlery Wares and Files, and Birmingham is allow'd to out-do Sheffield in Locks, Hinges, Nails, and poliſh'd Steel.

The Cutlers here are incorporated by the Style of The Cutlers of Hallamſhire, and have many Privi⯑leges. They are ſaid to be 600 in Number, and are called Maſter-cutlers; each of whom gives a parti⯑cular Stamp to his Wares. The Corporation chuſe a Maſter and other Officers yearly; and it is judged, that no leſs than 40000 are imploy'd in the Iron⯑trade in Sheffield, and the adjacent Tract of Land called Hallamſhire.

From hence it will be judged, that the ſaid Pariſh-church, the only one in this populous Town, was not able to contain one half of the People of Sheffield; which induced one Mr. Robert Downes, Goldſmith of this Town, to contribute a large Sum, and to procure other Sums by Contributions, for erecting a Chapel of Eaſe; and accordingly he got Leave, Anno 1719, from William Archbiſhop of York, to proceed in ſo good a Work, and built a handſome and ſtately Structure on a Piece of Ground called Shaw-cloſe, purchaſed by the ſaid Mr. Downes, who alſo ſettled to the Value of 30l. a Year for ever, on [94] a Preacher, to be elected and nominated by him, his Heirs and Aſſigns.

But tho' the Building was thus finiſhed, and Mr. Downes had actually nominated to it, his Nephew Joſeph Downes, yet the Nomination being conteſted by the Patrons of the Vicarage of Sheffield, and the Vicar alſo, it remained unconſecrated till the Year 1739; when the Parties differing, coming to an Agreement, an Act of Parliament paſſed, confirm⯑ing the ſame; and it is now conſecrated by the Name of The Chapel of St. Paul in the Town of Sheffield.

Formerly here was a very fine Caſtle, with a no⯑ble Manſion-houſe, the Seat of the Dukes of Nor⯑folk; but it is now all demoliſhed and decayed, tho' the Manor remains ſtill in the Family.

In the great Church, in this Town, are ſeveral very antient Monuments of the Family of Talbots, Earls of Shrewſbury, who once had great Poſſeſſions in this and the next County.

In particular, George, the firſt Earl of Shrewſbury, who died 1531. George the ſecond, Grandſon to the firſt, under whoſe Care the Queen of Scots was here in Cuſtody for 16 Years, who died 1590, and Gilbert his Son, who founded the ſtately Hoſpital in this Town, all lie buried here.

The Gift of this Hoſpital is perpetuated in the following Inſcription: ‘The Hoſpital of the Right Honourable GILBERT Earl of Shrewſbury, erected and ſettled by the Right Honourable HENRY Earl of Norwich, Earl Marſhal of ENGLAND, great Grandſon of the ſaid Earl, in purſuance of his laſt Will and Teſtament, Anno 1673.’

Here is a fine Engine for raiſing Water to ſupply the Town. Here is alſo a very large and ſtrong [95] Bridge over the Dun, as there is another at Rother⯑ham, a Market-town Six Miles lower. Of late ſeveral Acts of Parliament have paſſed to make this River further navigable to different Places, which will greatly increaſe the Trade of thoſe Parts.

It is in the Park here, that the great Oak-tree grew formerly, of which Mr. Evelyn gives a long Account in his Book of Foreſt-trees. And what became of the Cheſnut-tree near Aderclift, mention'd by Camden's Continuator, the Body of which could hardly be fathomed by three Men, I could hear no Account of.

The Remains of the Roman Fortification between Sheffield and Rotherham are ſtill to be ſeen, and probably will continue to the End of Time.

Here is alſo the famous Trench, by ſome called Devil's Bank, other Danes Bank; which is ſaid to run Five Miles in Length, and in ſome Places is called Kemp Bank, in others Temple's Bank.

Rotherham is the next Market-town North-eaſt of Sheffield. It is noted for its fine Stone Bridge over the Dun, which is here increaſed by the River Rother, from whence the Town, no doubt, took its Name.

The Church is built in the Form of a Cathedral, and is a fair Stone Building, with a handſome Spire Steeple.

From Rotherham we turned North-weſt to Went⯑worth, on purpoſe to ſee the old Seat of the Went⯑worths, who have flouriſhed here ever ſince the Conqueſt, and been poſſeſſed of the Eſtate of Wood⯑houſe from the Time of Henry III. Among the ſeveral noble Perſons of this Family, who have reſided here, was the great Thomas Wentworth, Earl of Straf⯑ford, beheaded in the Time of King Charles I. whoſe Body lies buried in this Church. His Honours were extinct in his Son; but his Seat is ſtill in the Poſſeſſion of Sir Thomas Wentworth, Earl of Malton, his Great Grandſon, who has made ſuch Improvements to it, [96] that it is inferior to few in Great Britain. It is ſituated on the Side of a Hill, defended from the North and Weſt, but opens to the South and Eaſt, towards which Quarters it commands a very exten⯑ſive Proſpect over a rich and beautiful Country, which belongs to the Family.

The Gardens are large, and adorn'd with Obe⯑liſks, Statues, &c. having a Green-houſe and Bath⯑ing-room. On one Side there is an uninterrupted View into the Park and Neighbourhood. Here are two Beauties rarely to be met with any-where elſe, a Grove of old Fir-trees, and a Mount of above 100 Feet high perpendicularly meaſured. The Cir⯑cumference of the Parks is about eight Miles, and is beautified with Fiſh-ponds, Woods of Timber of an uncommon Size, and with Plantations innumer⯑able. The Turf is of a fine Verdure, and the Soil fruitful.

The Houſe, with the Additions lately made, and now carrying on, will extend 200 Yards in Front, and is built in Imitation of Wanſtead in Eſſex, the Seat of Earl Tilney. And an Improvement has been added to the Park and Fiſh-ponds, one whereof, conſiſting of 14 Acres of Ground, receives a ſmall Brook, which being conducted through a winding Cut, for 600 Yards, falling down ſix Steps, is brought by a Canal of 300 Yards into the Lake, and ſo affords a pretty Proſpect of Water for near a Mile together.

From hence we went to ſee Stamborough, a fine Seat now belonging to the Earl of Strafford; the late Earl built the Houſe here, which has an exceed⯑ing noble Front, and adorn'd it with large Planta⯑tions, fine Water-works, and Gardens; to which if we add the Viſta's, Walks, and Woods, which are large and numerous, it may vie with moſt Seats in Great Britain for Elegancy.

[97]We afterwards ſteer'd our Courſe back again to Rotherham, and leaving that Town, came to Sand⯑beck, a fine Seat of the Earl of Scarborough; which, conſidering the beautiful Lawn before the Houſe, and the Extent of the adjoining Woods, remarkable for the Improvements of Art, as well as for the Bigneſs and flouriſhing State of the Trees, may vie with moſt Seats, in reſpect to Situation.

From hence we purſued a By-track, in order to ſee a famous Yew-tree, which ſtands in a Field called Cuckolds Haven, and is a very ſurpriſing Pro⯑duction of Nature, and which I ſhall attempt to deſcribe: It has a ſtrait ſmooth Stem, about 10 Feet high, from which the Branches extend in Circles above each other, like the Diviſions of a Pine⯑apple, and of that Shape, and of equal Exactneſs. The Figure of the Tree is much more beautiful than could have been made by Art of Man. The Branches from Top to Bottom are ſo thick, that a Bird can ſcarce creep through them in any Part; and every Shoot and Fibre put out the ſame Length each Year, and are of ſo bright and pleaſant a Green in all Seaſons, that at ſome Diſtance the Cloathing of the Tree appears like Velvet. There is a Hedge planted round it for a Fence, and many People have thought it worth their while to ride 20 Miles to view it.

Upon Sight of this Curioſity, and Thouſands of other Trees of the ſame Species in its Neighbour⯑hood, I could not but lament, that Avarice ſhould ſo far prevail, eſpecially with Gentlemen, as to conſent to grant what I call a dead Warrant for the ſelling of many noble ſtately ones, in the Height of their Glory, which for ſome Hundred of Years had been an Ornament to the Places where they grew, when perhaps one of the largeſt of them, which in a Garden or Park would be eſteemed above any Price, [98] is ſold for no more than 20 or 30 Shillings, to make Naves for Wheels.

Afterwards we ſtruck into a By-road, which brought us to the Ruins of Roch or Rock Abby, hid by a ſteep woody Cliff, towards the South, and by large Rocks every other Way, except Eaſtward. One Side of the Nef of this Building, from North to South, under the middle Tower, and ſome odd Pillars and Arches, are all that is now left, great Part having been carried away, from time to time, to repair adjacent Churches, or build Gentlemens Seats, tho' now Care is taken, by the preſent Earl of Scarborough, to preſerve what remains. Theſe Ruins, among which large Trees are now grown up, and the contiguous Borders, make a Picture inex⯑preſſibly charming, eſpecially when viewed with the Lights and Shadows they receive from a Weſtern Sun; and its recluſe Situation, ſtill from every Noiſe, except the Murmur of a limpid Rivulet, together with the Fragments of ſepulchral Monuments, and the gloomy Shades of thoſe venerable Greens, Ivy, and Yew, which creep up, and luxuriantly branch out and mix with the beautiful Whiteneſs of the Rocks, give ſuch a Solemnity to this Scene, as de⯑mands a ſerious Reverence from the Beholder, and inſpires a contemplative Melancholy, oftentimes pleaſing as well as proper to indulge.

The Stone, of which this Abbey is built, was dug out of the famous Quarry near adjoining, and ſo well known to Maſons by the Name of Roch Abbey⯑ſtone, which for Whiteneſs and Beauty is not to be equalled.

Another thing worthy of Notice in this Neigh⯑bourhood, is the Tower and Spire of the Church Laughton, which for a Delicacy and Juſtneſs of Proportion, is not excelled by any other Gothi [...] Piece of the kind. How it happened, that ſo [99] elegant and ornamental a Structure, ſuperior by far to all others round it, was beſtow'd upon a Village-church, is matter of ſome Wonder.

The Building ſtands upon a very high Hill, which appears at Diſtance like that at Harrow in the County of Middleſex. The Height of the Steeple to the Weather-cock is 195 Feet, and by its Situa⯑tion the moſt conſpicuous every way, of any perhaps in the whole Kingdom, being ſeen from many Places 40, 50, and 60 Miles. It has a peculiar Beauty, when view'd in the diagonal Line, the Pinacles at the Corners of the Tower being join'd by Arches to the Spire, as are others above them, which break its Out-lines, and give, at the ſame time, a beauti⯑ful Diminution; but Time will not permit it to ſtand much longer without conſiderable Repairs.

The Duke of Leeds, whoſe Seat at Kiveton is at about three Miles Diſtance, has cut a Viſta through the Woods of his Park, to take this Steeple into his View.

About two Miles from Laughton we ſaw the ſaid Seat of Kiveton: It is an elegant Houſe, and the Apart⯑ments and Offices are diſpoſed with great Conve⯑niency. The Situation is in a wholſome Air, and commands fine Proſpects. Here are pleaſant Gar⯑dens, and a beautiful Park.

We omitted viſiting many other Places in theſe Parts, which, had Time allowed, would have anſwer'd the Trouble of riding uneven Roads, which are tireſome hereabouts, and haſtened to reach Tickhill, which is a ſmall Market-town, and very antient.

Here is an old Caſtle, which is large, but ſur⯑rounded with a ſingle Wall only, and an huge Mount, with a round Tower on the Top of it. it was antiently of ſuch Dignity, that all the Manors round about it, belonging to it, were ſtyled The Honour of Tickhill. The Church in this Town is very large, and a handſome Building.

[100]We now return'd once more to Rotherham, and purſued our Courſe higher up on the River Dun, to Coningsborough Caſtle, called in Britiſh Caer Conan, ſituate on a Rock, where Matthew of Weſtminſter ſays, That Aurelius Ambroſius, a Britiſh Prince, van⯑quiſh'd Hengiſt, the Saxon General, and took him Priſoner, where, in Revenge of his barbarous Murder of the Britiſh Nobility in cold Blood, near Stone⯑henge in Wiltſhire, he cut off his Head.

Before the Gate is an Agger, ſaid to be the Bury⯑ing-place of Hengiſt. It is not only famous for its Antiquity, but its Situation too, upon a pleaſant Aſcent, having ſix large Market-towns, 120 Villages, many large Woods of Oak, ſome containing 100 Acres, and others beautifully cut through into Walks, ſix Iron Furnaces, many Mines of Coal and Iron, Quarries of Stone for Building, nine large Stone Bridges, 40 Water-mills, ſix Seats of Noblemen, 60 of Gentlemen, 15 Parks, and two navigable Rivers. Upon the Dun alſo, a little Way from Co⯑ningsborough, is a Place called Temple-brough, a Ro⯑man Fortification, of which the North-eaſt Corner is waſh'd away by the River. The Area is about 200 Paces long, beſides the Agger; and on the Out⯑ſide of it is a large Trench, 37 Paces deep; on the other Side of it is another Trench, cover'd with large Trees.

Travelling North-eaſt from hence, we came to Bantry, which ſtands juſt at the Entrance from Nottinghamſhire, into the Weſt-riding, a Town bleſſed with two great Conveniencies, which con⯑tribute to its Support, and make it a very well-frequented Place.

• 1. That it ſtands upon the great Poſt-road from London to Scotland; which makes it full of very good Inns and Houſes of Entertainment.
• 2. That the little, but pleaſant River Idle runs by it, which, contrary to the Import of its Name, is [101] a full and quick, tho' not rapid and unſafe Stream, with a deep Chanel, which carries Lighters and flat-bottom'd Veſſels into the Trent, that comes within ſeven Miles of it, to a Place called Stockwith, from thence to Burton, and from thence, if the Weather be fair, to Hull; if not, 'tis ſufficient to go to Stockwith, where Veſſels of 200 Tons Bur⯑den may come up laden to the Town.

By this Navigation Bantry becomes the Centre of all the Exportation of this Part of the Country, eſpecially for heavy Goods, which are brought down hither from all the adjacent Countries, ſuch as Lead, Mill-ſtones and Grind-ſtones from Derbyſhire, wrought Iron and edged Tools of all Sorts, from the Forges at Sheffield, and from the adjacent Country called Hallamſhire.

From hence to Doncaſter is a pleaſant Road, that never wants Repair, which is ſomething extraordi⯑nary in any Part of this lower Side of the Country.

Doncaſter (ſo called from the River on which it ſtands, and the Caſtle which is now ruined) is a noble, large, ſpacious Town, and exceeding popu⯑lous, govern'd by a Mayor, and carrying on a great Manufacture, principally for Stockens, Gloves, and knit Waiſtcoats; and as it ſtands upon the great Northern Poſt-road, is full of good Inns. There is a remarkable old Column called a Croſs, at the End of the Town, with a Norman Inſcription upon it.

Here we ſaw the firſt Remains of the great Roman Highway, which, tho' we could not perceive before, were eminent and remarkable juſt at the Entrance into the Town, and ſoon after appeared in many Places. Here are alſo two ſtrong Stone Bridges over the Dun, beſides a long Cauſeway beyond them, the Waters of the River being dangerous to Paſſengers, when they ſwell over its Banks, as is ſometimes the Caſe.

[102]This Town, Mr. Camden ſays, ‘"was burnt in⯑tirely to the Ground, Anno 759; and was hardly recovered in his Time."’ But it now looks more decayed by Time than Accident, and the Houſes, which ſeem ready to fall, might riſe again to more Advantage after another Conflagration.

It has but one Church, which is large, and its Tower of admirable Work. There is a remarkable Epitaph on one Robert Byrk, a famous Man of Don⯑caſter, who gave a Place, called Roſſington Wood, to the Poor.

Here lies alſo, under a plain Grave-ſtone in the Church, the Body of one Thomas Ellis, memorable for having been five times Mayor of the Town, for founding an Hoſpital there, called St. Thomas's the Apoſtle, and endowing it plentifully.

We ought not to forget, that the celebrated Sailor, Sir Martin Frobiſher, was born in this Town. He was the firſt Engliſhman, who, in the Reign of Q. Elizabeth, diſcover'd the North Paſſage to China and Cathai, and found ſome Streights, which he called after his own Name, and a Foreland after the Queen's. At his firſt Voyage, one of the Company brought back ſome black Stones, out of which the Refiners, it is ſaid, extracted Gold; which encou⯑raged him to load his Ship with them afterwards: but they were then found to be fit for nothing, but to mend the Highways. He ſignalized himſelf againſt [103] the Spaniſh Armada; and received his Death Wound by a Shot at Breſt in Britany: the Surgeon, having extracted the Bullet, left the Wadding behind; by which means the Wound mortified, and he died as ſoon as he had brought back the Fleet to Plymouth.

We ſet forward directly Weſt, and came to Barneſley, a little Market-town, well-built of Stone, where a Manufacture, and Iron and Steel Work, flouriſhes. It has a ſmoaky Aſpect, and is called Black-Barneſley; but whether on that Account, or from the Moors, which look all black, like Bag⯑ſhot Heath, I know not.

After we had paſſed theſe Moors, we came thro' a moſt rich, pleaſant and populous Country to Wake⯑field.

Wakefield is a large Town, ſituate upon the River Calder, (which was made navigable in the Year 1698) ſince which Time the Town has increaſed conſiderably in Riches, and Number of Inhabitants. There is a handſome Stone Bridge over the River, upon which ſtands a Chapel, erected by King Ed⯑ward IV. in Memory of his Father Richard, Duke of York, who was ſlain near this Place, as I ſhall mention by-and-by. The Chapel is 10 Yards long, and ſix broad; and tho' very much defaced by Time, it appears to have been wrought in a very curious manner. A little above the Bridge is a Waſh or Dam, over which the Water rolling, forms an admir⯑able Caſcade of a great Length.

This Town conſiſts of three great Streets, which meet in a Centre near the Church, where there might be formed a very ſpacious Market-place, but by reaſon of the great Number of Inhabitants it is ſo crouded with Buildings, that there is only a ſmall Area round the Market-croſs, which is a very ele⯑gant Building, being an open Colonnade of the Dorick Order, ſupporting a Dome, to which you aſcend by an open circular Pair of Stairs, in the Centre of the [104] Building. This brings you to a Room, which receives Light from a Turret on the Top, and may be called the Town-hall; for here they tranſact all their pub⯑lick Buſineſs.

The Church is a very large and lofty Gothick Building, the Body of which was repaired in the Year 1724, but the Spire (which is one of the higheſt in the County) remains in the ſame State it was.

In this Town was born John Green, the famous Pinder, who fought Robin Hood ſo manfully.

From the Bridge you have an agreeable View to the South-eaſt, where, by the Side of the River, riſes a Hill, covered with Wood, at about a Mile Diſtance. This joins to an open Moor or Common called Heath-moor, upon which are ſeveral Gentle⯑mens Seats, very pleaſantly ſituated.

South between Wakefield and a Village called San⯑d [...], they ſhewed us a ſmall ſquare Piece of Ground, which was fenced off by itſelf; and on which, be⯑fore the late Civil War, ſtood a large Stone Croſs, juſt upon the Spot where the Duke of York, fight⯑ing deſperately, and refuſing to yield, tho' ſurrounded with Enemies, was killed. But tho' Religion has ſuffered the Croſs to fall, the Chapel I mentioned on the Bridge at Wakefield, the other Monument of this Battle, is ſtill preſerved by being made uſe of for Civil Affairs. Some ſay there are more People here, than in the City of York, and yet it is no Cor⯑poration Town.

Here is a Market every Friday for Woollen Cloths, after the manner of that at Leeds, tho' not ſo great; yet as all the Clothing Trade is prodigiouſly increaſed, and ſtill increaſing in this County, ſo this M [...]ket flouriſhes with the reſt.

I cannot here paſs by my former Obſervation, that all the great Rivers take their Beginning in the Mountains of Blackſtone Edge and High Peak, which, as I have ſaid, part the Counties of Lancaſter and [105] York, and that theſe Rivers all take their Courſe due Eaſt. The Dun is the firſt; the next is the Calder, now becoming a very large River at Wakefield; and the Aire is the next, which riſes at the Foot of the Mountain Penigent, on the Edge of Lancaſhire, of which 'tis ſaid proverbially:

As the Calder runs by Halifax, Huthersfield, and thro' Wakefield; ſo the Aire runs by Skipton, Brad⯑ford, and thro' Leeds, and then both join at Caſtle⯑ford Bridge, near Pontefract, three Miles from Brad⯑ford, and in an united Stream form that Navigation from this trading Part of Yorkſhire to Hull, which is of ſo much Advantage to the whole County.

I went to ſee the antient Town of Pontefract, with the Caſtle, where ſo much Blood has been ſpilt, in different Ages; for here Henry, the great Earl of Lancaſter, who was Lord of the Caſtle, and whoſe Anceſtors had beautified, inlarged, and forti⯑fied it, was beheaded by his Nephew, King Ed⯑ward II. with three or four more of the Engliſh Barons. Here Richard II. was murder'd, and, if Hiſtory may be credited, in a moſt cruel manner; and here Antony Earl of Rivers, and Sir Richard Gray, the firſt Uncle, and the other Brother-in-law to King Edward V. were beheaded by King Ri⯑chard III. In the late Civil Wars, a ſmall Party of brave Fellows took this Caſtle by Surprize, for the King, and deſperately defended it to the laſt Ex⯑tremity; but being at length obliged to yield, five of them attempted to break thro' the Beſiegers Camp, three of whom periſhed in the Attempt.

The Town is large and well built, but much ſmaller than it has been. The Caſtle lies in its Ruins, though not demoliſhed. It is a Corporation by Pre⯑ſcription, and the Mayor and 12 Aldermen are al⯑ways [106] Juſtices of the Peace. 'Tis ſaid, that antiently none could be arreſted at the Market-croſs, call'd Oſwald's Croſs, and a free Way leading to the Croſs, with about two Yards around it was kept unpav'd in Memory of that Privilege. But in the Year 1735, the old Croſs was pulled down, and a handſome Dome, ſupported by a Colonnade of Dorick Pillars, (the Charge whereof was defrayed by a Legacy left by one Dupere, an Inhabitant of the Town) was erected for that Purpoſe.

The Ruins of the Caſtle ſhew it to have been a noble Pile. A round Tower, yet ſtanding, is intire, in or near which, the Tradition is, King Richard II. was ſlain. Adjoining to this Tower are Winding⯑ſtairs, which deſcend into ſeveral Vaults, and ſub⯑terraneous Paſſages.

The Pariſh Church, which ſtands near the Caſtle, and was prodigiouſly large, received ſo much Damage in the late Civil Wars, that no more than the Shell is now left ſtanding. It is a handſome Gothick Building, in the Form of a Croſs, with a Tower in the middle, which is in good Proportion, and was formerly crown'd with a magnificent Lantern, en⯑riched with carved Work; but it received ſuch Da⯑mage from a Cannon Shot, during the Siege of the Caſtle, that it was ſoon after blown down; and upon the Surrender of the Caſtle, the Parliament did (by Reſolution of the Houſe, of the 27th of March, 1649) grant One thouſand Pounds, to be raiſed by Sale of the Materials of the ſaid Caſtle, to the Town of Pontefract, towards the repairing of their Place of publick Worſhip, and re-edifying an Habitation for a Miniſter. Part of this Grant might be ap⯑plied in erecting a plain Octagon Building upon the Tower, which finiſhes the Whole, in a manner not diſagreeable, tho' far inferior to the former. In the North weſt Corner of this Tower, are two circular Flights of Stairs, winding about the ſame Centre, [107] with ſeparate Entrances below, and diſtinct Landings above. The Inhabitants of the Town ſtill continue to bury in this Church-yard, but Divine Service is perform'd in a Chapel adjoining to the Market-place, which is very ſpacious.

At the Bottom of the Market-place ſtands the Town-hall.

Near the Road is a noble Seat, which belonged to the late Lord Bingley. 'Tis a new-built, beautiful Houſe, with curious Gardens, tho' not very large.

At Pontefract the great Roman Highway, which I mentioned at Doncaſter, (and is viſible from thence hither in ſeveral Places, tho' not in the open Road) is plain to be diſcern'd; and from Caſtleford Bridge, which croſſes over the united Rivers of Aire and Cal⯑der, it goes on to Aberforth, and ſo thro' Tadcaſter to York.

In ſome Places, where this Cauſeway is broken up, the Courſes appear to be of different Materials, the Bottom of Clay, upon that is Chalk, then Gravel, and upon the Gravel is Stone, and then Gravel upon that, and ſo other kinds of Earth, where the firſt was not to be had.

In ſeveral Places between this Bridge and Aber⯑forth, the Cauſeway being diſuſed for the common Road, it appears as intire as at its firſt making, tho' a Work undoubtedly of 15 or 1600 Years old. I take notice of it here, becauſe I have not ſeen any thing like it in any other Place of England.

Caſtleford is a Village that ſtands near the Con⯑fluence of the two Rivers above, and was formerly a Place of great Conſideration, inſomuch that ſome Authors call it a City. There have been dug up here divers Pieces of Roman Coin.

Aberforth is a ſmall Market-town, a few Miles North-eaſt of Pontefract, and is noted for Pin-making only.

[108]From Ferry-bridge, within a Mile of Pontefract, extends a large Stone Cauſeway, about a Mile in Length, to a Village called Brotherton, where Mar⯑garet, Wife of King Edward I. was forced to take up as ſhe was hunting, and was delivered of a Son, called from the Village Thomas of Brotherton. This Son was afterwards made Earl of Norfolk, and Marſhal of England. Not far from the Church is a Piece of Ground of 20 Acres, ſurrounded with a Trench and a Wall, where, as Tradition informs us, ſtood the Houſe in which the Queen was delivered, and the Tenants are obliged by Tenure to keep it ſurrounded with a Wall of Stone.

Brotherton is now noted for burning Lime-ſtone, which is brought from Tadcaſter in great Quantities, and carrying and diſperſing it into the Southern Parts, which turns to very good Account, and im⯑ploys a great many Hands.

A little to the South of this Village, the great Road divides in two Parts: one goes on to the Right to York, and the other thro' Aberforth and Wetherby, over Braham-moor, to Scotland.

At Braham-moor a Battle was fought between the Royaliſts and General Fairfax, where he was worſted and wounded, but made ſo Soldier-like a Retreat, that it gained him as great a Reputation as a Victory would have done.

But we followed neither of theſe two Roads, leaving the Towns that way for the Entertainment of another Journey; ſo we paſs'd directly Weſt along the Banks of the Aire to Leeds, which is a large, wealthy and populous Town, ſtanding on the North Side of the River Aire, with large Suburbs on the South Side, and both joined by a ſtately, ſtrong Stone Bridge, ſo large, and ſo wide, that formerly the Cloth-market was kept upon it; and therefore the Refreſhment given the Clothiers by the Inn-keepers (being a Pot of Ale, a Noggin of Pottage, [109] and a Trencher of broil'd or roaſt Beef, for Two-pence) is called the Brigg-ſhot to this Day.

The Increaſe of the Manufactures, and of the Trade, ſoon made the Market too great to be con⯑fined to the Brigg, ſo that it is now kept in the High Street, beginning from the Bridge, and run⯑ing up North almoſt to the Market-houſe, where the ordinary Market for Proviſions begins; which alſo is the greateſt of its kind in all the North of England. You may judge of the Plenty of it, when 500 Loads of Apples have been numbered by the Mayor's Officers in a Day.

But the Cloth Market is chiefly to be admired as a Prodigy of its Kind, and perhaps not to be equalled in the World. The Market for Serges at Exeter is indeed a wonderful Thing, and the Money returned very great; but it is there but once a Week, where⯑as here it is every Tueſday and Saturday.

Early in the Morning, Treſſels are placed in two Rows in the Street, ſometimes two Rows on a Side, croſs which Boards are laid, which make a kind of temporary Counter on either Side, from one End of the Street to the other.

The Clothiers come early in the Morning with their Cloth; and as few bring more than one Piece, the Market-days being ſo frequent, they goin to the Inns and Publick-houſes with it, and there ſet it down.

At about Six o'Clock in the Summer, and about Seven in the Winter, the Clothiers being all come by that Time, the Market Bell at the old Chapel by the Bridge rings; upon which it would ſurpriſe a Stranger to ſee in how few Minutes, without Hurry, Noiſe, or the leaſt Diſorder, the whole Market is filled, and all the Boards upon the Treſſels covered with Cloth, as cloſe to one another as the Pieces can lie longways, each Proprietor ſtanding behind his own Piece, who form a Mercantile Regiment, [110] as it were, drawn up in a double Line, in as great Order as a Military one.

As ſoon as the Bell has done Ringing, the Factors and Buyers of all Sorts enter the Market, and walk up and down between the Rows, as their Occaſions direct. Some of them have their foreign Letters of Orders, with Patterns ſealed on them, in their Hands; the Colours of which they match, by holding them to the Cloths they think they agree to. When they have pitched upon their Cloth, they lean over to the Clothier, and by a Whiſper, in the feweſt Words imaginable, the Price is ſtated; one aſks, the other bids; and they agree or diſagree in a Moment.

The Reaſon of this prudent Silence is owing to the Clothiers ſtanding ſo near to one another; for 'tis not reaſonable, that one Trader ſhould know an⯑other's Traffick.

If a Merchant has bidden a Clothier a Price, and he will not take it, he may go after him to his Houſe, and tell him he has conſidered of it, and is willing to let him have it; but they are not to make any new Agreement for it, ſo as to remove the Mar⯑ket from the Street to the Merchant's Houſe.

The Buyers generally walk up and down twice on each Side of the Rows, and in little more than an Hour all the Buſineſs is done. In leſs than half an Hour you will perceive the Cloth begin to move off, the Clothier taking it up upon his Shoulder to carry it to the Merchant's Houſe. At about half an Hour after Eight the Market Bell rings again, upon which the Buyers immediately diſappear, the Cloth is all ſold; or if any remains, it is carried back into the Inn. By Nine o'Clock the Boards and Treſſels are removed, and the Street left at Liberty for the Market-people of other Profeſſions, the Li⯑nen-drapers, Shoe-makers, Hard-ware Men, and the like.

[111]Thus, you ſee 10 or 20,000l. worth of Cloth, and ſometimes much more, bought and ſold in little more than an Hour, the Laws of the Market being the moſt ſtrictly obſerved, that I ever ſaw in any Market in England.

If it be aſked, How all theſe Goods at this Place, at Wakefield, and at Halifax, are vended and diſ⯑poſed of? I would obſerve,

Firſt, That there is a Home-conſumption; to ſupply which, ſeveral conſiderable Traders in Leeds go with Droves of Pack-horſes, loaden with thoſe Goods, to all the Fairs and Market-towns almoſt over the whole Iſland, not to ſell by Retail, but to the Shops by Wholeſale; giving large Credit. 'Tis ordinary for one of theſe Men to carry a thouſand Pounds worth of Cloth with him at a Time, and having ſold that, to ſend his Horſes back for as much more, and this very often in a Summer; for they travel chiefly at that Seaſon, becauſe of the Badneſs of the Roads.

There are others, who have Commiſſions from London to buy, or who give Commiſſions to Factors and Warehouſe-keepers in London to ſell for them, who not only ſupply all the Shop-keepers and Whole⯑ſale Men in London, but ſell alſo very great Quan⯑tities to the Merchants, as well for Exportation to the Engliſh Colonies in America, which take off great Quantities of the coarſe Goods, eſpecially New England, New York, Virginia, &c. as alſo to the Ruſſia Merchants, who ſend exceeding great Quan⯑tities to Peterſburg, Riga, Dantzick, Narva, and to Sweden and Pomerania; tho' of late the Manu⯑factures of this kind ſet up in Pruſſia, and other Northern Parts of Germany, interfere a little with them.

The third Sorts are ſuch as receive Commiſſions from abroad, to buy Cloth for the Merchants chiefly in Hamburg, and in Holland, &c. Theſe are not only [112] many in Number, but ſome of them very conſider⯑able in their Dealings, and correſpond with the far⯑theſt Provinces in Germany.

On account of this Trade it was, that the Rivers Aire and Calder were made navigable, under the Direction of Alderman Pickering, the celebrated Au⯑thor of the Marrow of Mathematicks, and performed at the Expence of ſeveral private Merchants, without calling in the Aſſiſtance of the Nobility and Gentry. By this means a Communication was opened from Leeds and Wakefield to York and Hull, ſo that all the Woollen Manufactures now exported, are carried by Water to Hull, and there ſhipped for Holland, Bre⯑men, Hamburgh, and the Baltick. And, encouraged by the Succeſs of this Act, in the Seſſion of Parliament Anno 1740. an Act paſſed for continuing the Navi⯑gation of the River Calder from Wakefield to Ealand, and Halifax, which will be a farther Benefit to the Trade of thoſe Parts; and at the ſame time ſeveral other Acts paſſed for mending of Highways around all theſe Parts, to Halifax, Ealand, Doncaſter, York, &c. which will no leſs promote the Commerce and Trade of this noble County.

There is another Trade in this Part of the Coun⯑try, become very conſiderable ſince the opening the above Navigation, which is the Carriage of Coals down from Wakefield and Leeds, at both which Places they have inexhauſtible Stores. Theſe are carried quite down into the Ouſe, and then either go up that River to York, or down to the Humber, where the Trent and Ouſe meet together, and which in a few Miles falls into the Sea. In this Paſſage abun⯑dance of large Towns are ſupplied with Coal, with this Advantage too, that whereas the Newcaſtle Coals pay four Shillings per Chaldron Duty to the Publick, theſe, being only River-borne Coal, are exempted, and pay nothing: So that the City of York, which ſtrenuouſly oppoſed the firſt Navigation of theſe [113] Rivers, in this Particular, as well as in many others, daily experiences the Benefit of it.

I need not add, that by the ſame Navigation all heavy Goods, imported to Hull, are brought up theſe Rivers, as well as Goods brought from London, and other Parts of the Kingdom, ſuch as Butter, Cheeſe, Lead, Iron, Salt, Sugars, Tobacco, Fruit, Spice, Hops, Oil, Wine, Brandy, Spirits, and the like.

The Antiquity of Leeds is very great, being men⯑tioned by Venerable Bede; but it was not incorpo⯑rated till 2 Car. I. when Sir John Savile (afterwards Lord Savile) was made the firſt honorary Alderman, in Memory of whom the Arms of the Town are adorned with his Supporters, and thoſe very ſuitable, being the two Athenian Birds, ſacred to that Goddeſs who was deem'd the Patroneſs of Spinning and Weav⯑ing, as well as Arts in general.

At the Weſt End of the Town formerly ſtood a Caſtle, wherein King Richard II. was impriſoned before he was carried to Pontefract. And on the Scite thereof now ſtands the antient Manor-houſe, with the Park, &c. lately belonging to Mr. Richard Sy [...]es. Here are two magnificent Halls, both built about the Year 1714; one for White Cloths, ſup⯑ported by Pillars and Arches, which form a Qua⯑drangle like the Royal Exchange, with a handſome Cupola, and Bell on the Top, to give Notice when the Market for theſe Sort of Goods begins. The other is the Guild or Moot Hall, the Front of which is built likewiſe on Arches, with ruſtick Coins and Tabling; where, in a Nich, is placed a fine Statue of Queen Anne, done by Mr. Carpenter, at the Expence of Alderman Milner.

Here are three Churches. St. Peter's, the Pariſh Church, is built in the Form of a Croſs, with a Tower riſing from the Middle, with eight Bells in it. In the Ceiling is the Giving of the Law, finely [114] painted in Freſco by Parmentier, who voluntarily gave this Specimen of his Art, in Gratitude for the Encouragement he had met with here. St. John's was built in 1634, at the ſole Expence of Mr. Har⯑riſon, who likewiſe built the Alms-houſes adjoining, a Free-ſchool, a Market-croſs, and the Street called New-ſtreet, the Rents of which he appropriated to pious Uſes.

I muſt not omit the New Chapel, as it is called, erected by the Preſbyterians in 1691; which is ſaid to have been the firſt, as it certainly is the ſtatelieſt they have in the North of England.

From Leeds we advanced Northward, and came to Harwood, a pretty little Town on the River Wherfe, over which is a very coſtly Bridge, and there for⯑merly was a ſtrong Caſtle. The Church here is re⯑markable for ſeveral things; particularly for the In⯑terrment of Sir William Gaſcoigne, who had the Courage to commit Prince Henry, afterwards K. Henry V. to the King's Bench, for affronting him while he was in the Seat of Juſtice, letting him know, that though the Son might bear the Image of the King's Perſon, the Judge bore that of his Authority.

We paſſed the Wherfe over a fine Stone Bridge of 11 Arches. The River runs in a Bed of Stone (which makes it look as clear as Rock Water).

The Plenty of Stone in the North is, no doubt, the Reaſon why there are ſo many noble Bridges in that Part of England, inſomuch that I don't remem⯑ber to have ſeen one of Timber from the Trent to the Tweed.

We travelled along the Wherfe into the Dale, that takes its Name from the River, which reaches from York about 20 Miles, enlivened almoſt all the Way with Gentlemens Seats at a little Diſtance from each other; and left Ottley on the South-ſide of the River, a ſmall Market-town, no otherwiſe of Note than [115] for its Situation, which is under a large craggy Cliff. If Yorkſhire owed us any Pleaſure for the Fatigues of a former Day, it was abundantly made up to us here; for I cannot but think this one of the moſt delightful Parts of England, and I have met with Travellers who have compared it to the Plain of Palermo itſelf. Nor ought you to be ſur⯑priſed to hear ſome Parts of the North compared with Italy. The Teſtimony of Biſhop Tonſtal is well known, who in his Progreſs to York with King Henry VIII. in the Year 1548, declared, that the Country North of Doncaſter, and South of Haſle⯑wood, was the richeſt he had found in his Travels thro' Europe. It would be endleſs to mention all the Seats we paſſed; but the Motto, at leaſt, of Mr. Ibbotſon's at Denton will naturally engage the Speculation of every Traveller: ‘QVOD NEC IOVIS IRA, NEC IGNIS, NEC POTERIT FERRVM.’

The Houſe, it ſeems, belonged once to Lord Fairfax, General of the Parliament Forces, and was about to be demoliſhed by Prince Rupert; but was happily ſaved by the Sight of a Picture of one of the General's worthy Anceſtors. It was afterwards burnt down by Accident, and rebuilt by the preſent Poſſeſſor; and now, after the Rage of War, and Devaſtation of Fire, in a Poetical Rant, defies them both.

Knareſborough, known among Foreigners by the Name of the Yorkſhire Spaw, ſtands near Ripley, a Market-town, upon the River Nyd. In the Town, and the Lands adjacent, are no leſs than four differ⯑ent Mineral Waters. One of the Springs is a pe⯑trifying Water, which in a little Cave drops from the Roof of the Cavity, and, as they ſay, turns Wood into Stone.

[116]The other two Springs are indeed the moſt valu⯑able Rarities of the kind in England.

The firſt is the Sweet Spaw, or a Vitriolick Wa⯑ter. It was diſcovered by one Mr. Slingſby, Anno 1630; and all Phyſicians acknowlege it to be a very ſovereign Medicine in ſeveral particular Diſtempers. See Dr. Leigh's Natural Hiſtory of Lancaſhire.

The other is the Stinking Spaw, or, according to the Learned, the Sulphur Well. This Water is clear as Cryſtal, but ſo fetid and nauſeous to the Smell, that many are obliged to hold their Noſes when they drink it; yet it is a valuable Medicine in Scor⯑butick, Hypochondriack, and eſpecially in Hydropick Diſtempers.

The People formerly, for many Years, only drank theſe Waters, but they now make uſe of them as a Cold Bath; and in this manner they muſt neceſſa⯑rily be very good for Rheumatick Pains, Paralytick Numbneſſes, and many other Diſtempers.

Theſe Baths were heretofore well frequented, in⯑ſomuch that I have been told 200l. per Annum Rent has been given for a Cold Bath. But now Scar⯑borough has the Vogue.

At Rippon are two good Stone Bridges, one of which has, I think, thirteen Arches, or more, over the Eure, and is a very ſtately one. There is another over the ſame River at Burrowbrigg, four Miles lower than Rippon, which has indeed but four or five Arches, but then theſe Arches are near 40 Feet wide, and one of the middlemoſt much more, and are high in proportion; the Ends of the Bridge are likewiſe continued by high Cauſeways, built of Stone, to keep the Water in its Courſe, which however ſometimes overflows them.

From theſe Bridges, as well as that above-men⯑tioned at Harwood, it may be obſerved, that how⯑ever low theſe Waters are in the Summer, they are high and furious enough in the Winter; and yet the [117] River Aire, tho' its Source is in the ſame Ridge of Mountains as the other, is gentle and mild in its Stream, whereas the others are raging and furious. The only Reaſons I can give for it, are, that this River runs in a thouſand Windings and Turnings more than any other in theſe Parts, inſomuch that, as Camden expreſſes it, near its Head in Craven it ſeems doubtful whether it ſhould run forward to the Sea, or return to its Spring; and from Skipton to Gargrave it is obſerved to be paſſed over eight times within the Compaſs of three Miles. The next Rea⯑ſon is, that after it has deſcended from the Moun⯑tains it has a deeper Chanel.

Rippon, the Iſurium of the Romans, is a very neat, pleaſant, well-built Town; and an antient Corpo⯑ration: it has not only an agreeable Situation on a riſing Ground between two Rivers, but the Build⯑ings are good likewiſe, particularly the Market-place, which is accounted the fineſt and moſt beautiful Square of its kind in England.

In the middle of it ſtands a curious Obeliſk, built by Mr. Aiſlaby, whoſe Seat at Studley is about a Mile diſtant. The Town is govern'd by a Mayor and Aldermen.

Here is a large Collegiate Church, and tho' but a Deanry in the Dioceſe of York, yet it is a very handſome, antient, and venerable Pile, and ſhews itſelf a great way in the Country. Mr. Camden ſays, Rippon owes its Greatneſs to Religion. And that here was a famous Monaſtery built by Wilfrid, Archbiſhop of York, in the firſt Ages of Chriſtia⯑nity in this Iſland, is certain; but this pious Gift of the Biſhop was loſt ſome Years after; for the Danes over-running Yorkſhire, rifled and burnt it to the Ground, together with the whole Town of Rippon. It afterwards flouriſhed again as a Monaſtery: but that, with the reſt, being given up in the Reign of King Henry VIII. the Church only was preſerved.

[118]While it was a Monaſtery, here was a famous Sanctuary, a Thing much abuſed in foreign Coun⯑tries. This Privilege was, it ſeems, granted to the Church of Rippon by King Athelſtan, and whoever broke the Rights of Sanctuary, which he extended a Mile around the Church, were to forfeit Life and Eſtate; ſo that, in ſhort, not the Church only, but the whole Town, and a Circle of two Miles diameter, was a Refuge for all that fled to it, where they lived ſafe, and out of the Reach of all Law.

Annexed to this Monaſtery was an Hoſpital, the Purpoſes of which are very remarkable, and would be worthy Imitation in our Days of Proteſtant Cha⯑rity. The Houſe was called the Hoſpital of St. Mary Magdalene, where, according to the Foundation, were to be maintained two Chaplains, to perform Divine Service; and if any begging Clergyman, or other needy Perſon ſhould happen to travel or ſtray out of his Way, and call at the ſaid Hoſpital, he ſhould be relieved there for one Night only, with Food and a Bed, and ſo be gone in the Morning; and every poor Perſon that came craving an Alms on St. Mary Magdalene's Day yearly, ſhould have one Loaf, Value an Half-peny, (when Corn was at the Price of five Shillings per Quarter) and one Herring.

'Tis alſo recorded, that one Branch of this Ho⯑ſpital was given to a Society of religious Siſters to maintain a Chaplain to perform Divine Service; and to keep all the Lepers born and bred in Hipſchire; but the Siſters being in time removed, a Brother⯑hood was eſtabliſhed in their ſtead, which continued for a while; and after that a Maſterſhip. At length all, except the Church, was demoliſhed together, and the Houſe with the Monaſtery ſuppreſſed.

The Church is an antient Gothick Building, firm, ſtrong, and plain; no Imagery or Statues to be ſeen about it; there are three Towers, on which for⯑merly were Spires.

[119]The whole Revenues were ſeized by King Hen⯑ry VIII. ſo that little or nothing remained for an offi⯑ciating Clergyman. But King James I. having the Caſe repreſented to him by his Queen, was pleaſed to found and endow in this Church one Dean, and ſeven Prebendaries, beſides Petit-canons, Singing-men, and Choiriſters, of his own Royal Bounty and Benevolence, under the Juriſdiction of the Arch⯑biſhop of York.

But I muſt not leave Rippon without mentioning St. Wilfrid's Needle, a Place famous in antient Times, being a narrow Hole in a cloſe vaulted Room under Ground, in which Womens Chaſtity was tried; and, if chaſte, they paſſed thro', but if otherwiſe, the Whim was, they could not. Some Saxon Coins were found here in the Year 1695.

In the Church-yard of this Minſter lies a plain Monument, or Graveſtone, over the Remains of a generous Soul, who gave Two thouſand Pounds to pious Uſes, and yet has no other Epitaph than the following: ‘Hic jacet Zacharias Jepſon, cujus Aetas fuit 49.
per paucos annos tantum vixit.’

We ſpent a conſiderable Part of a Day in the ce⯑lebrated Park, or rather Garden, belonging to Mr. Aiſlabie, which is viſited by all the Curious, and ad⯑mired as a Wonder, not only with regard to the va⯑rious Beauties, which Nature has ſo laviſhly beſtowed; but thoſe of Art and Cultivation, wherewith it is ſo liberally adorned: the latter exhibit a noble Speci⯑men of that exquiſite fine Taſte for Architecture and Gardening, in which the preſent worthy Owner is allowed to excel. The Temples and Loggio's, built in many delightful Receſſes, may vie with the beſt Models of the Antients; and the wide extended Plantations are judiciouſly varied, as the Objects of the Landſchape become new. In one Part, the Hills [120] gradually aſcend, with Tufts of Shade interſpers'd over the Verdure; in another, they precipitately riſe, with Rocks projecting from their rough Sides, and tall Woods covering their Brows. Above theſe, a beautiful Gothick (but unconſecrated) Tower lifts up its Head; and below, the Skirts of the Cliffs are watered by a River which wanders in one Place with a ſilent Current, and in another falls down in Caſ⯑cades: An eaſy Eminence commands a Proſpect of the Town and Minſter of Rippon, with a large Ex⯑tent of Country beyond; and the ſtately Ruins of Fountain-Abbey are ſeen from another, beſides Gen⯑tlemens Seats in the Centre of many Views. The fine Turf of the Park is conſtantly cleared of Weeds, and equal Care is taken to preſerve the beſt Trees from Decay: Through the whole Scene of Variety, the Improvements are adapted to follow the luxuriant Fancy of Nature, and humour her different Propen⯑ſities. You ſee her deck'd out and inrich'd, where Neceſſity or Propriety beſpeak ſuch Indulgence; but in the Simplicity of her own Dreſs, where Orna⯑ment would disfigure her beautiful Attire.

The Houſe is an old Building, but a noble Plan is laid down for a new one, and in a better Situation of the Park. There are Stables built, which are very grand.

The late Biſhop of Namur, (Abbot Strickland) when he reſided in England in the Year 1734, took a Journey from London to Studley, with Inten⯑tion to tranſplant ſome of the Beauties of this Place, as near as might be, in the Diſpoſition of his Planta⯑tions, adjoining to a magnificent Palace he was then about to build at his epiſcopal Reſidence.

A Mile from Rippon, or leſs, is a ſtately beautiful Seat, called Newbie, built ſome Years ſince by Sir Edward Blacket. The Park is extended to the Bank of the River Eure, and is ſometimes in part laid under Water by the River, which, coming down [121] from the Weſtern Mountains thro' a marly, loamy Soil, fructifies the Earth, they ſay, as the River Nile does the Egyptian Fields about Grand Cairo.

As Sir Edward ſpared no Coſt in the Building, and Sir Chriſtopher Wren laid out the Deſign, as well as choſe the Situation, I ſhall only ſay, tbat nothing can be added to the one or the other. The Build⯑ing is of Brick, the Avenues to it are very fine, and the Gardens not only well laid out, but well planted, and as well kept. But for want of fine Gravel, the Walks cannot ſhew themſelves, as they would do, were they in the Southern Part of England. The Houſe has a fine Proſpect over the Country, almoſt to York, with the River in View moſt of the Way; and it has a very noble Appearance to the great North Road, which lies at Burrow-bridge, within two Miles of it.

As you begin to come into the North-riding, (for the Eure parts the Weſt-riding from it) you find your⯑ſelf in a Place noted in the North of England for the beſt and largeſt Oxen, and the fineſt galloping Horſes, bred either for the light Saddle, for the Race, or the Chace, for Running or Hunting. Sir Edward was a Grazier, and took ſuch Delight in Breeding and Feeding large Black Cattle, that he had two or three times an Ox out of his Park led about the Country for a Sight, and ſhewed as far as Newcaſtle, and even to Scotland, for the biggeſt Bul⯑lock in England, and 'twas very ſeldom, if ever, he was over-match'd.

From the Town of Rippon the North Road, and the Roman Way alſo, which comes from Caſtleford-bridge, parting at Aberforth, leads away from the Town of Bedal, in the North-riding, and in a ſtrait Line called Leeming-Lane, leaving Richmond about two Miles on the Weſt, goes on to Piers-bridge, on the River Tees, which are the utmoſt Limits of this vaſt County of York.

[122]But as I propoſed at my entering into this Weſt-riding to go no further than Rippon, which ſtands on the Northern Boundary of it, I muſt ſtop here, and likewiſe make it the Boundary, as well of this Journey as of this Letter, ſince I find it impracti⯑cable to take a Survey of this large, populous, and wealthy Diviſion on one Journey, without wander⯑ing to and fro, up and down, backward and forward, on purpoſe, which would be exceedingly fatiguing and uneaſy; and as I was reſolved to make as perfect Obſervations as I poſſibly could, of every thing that I could find remarkable in my way, and eſpe⯑cially of the Manufactures of the Country, which I account as well worthy a Traveller's Notice, as the Curioſities and Wonders of Nature, and the moſt refin'd Operations of the Liberal Arts and Sciences, I have therefore concluded upon another Journey into theſe Parts, and to enter by the Way of Lan⯑caſhire; and to coaſt it along the Weſt and North-weſt Sides of the Country, up to the River Tees, and the Southern Side of the Biſhoprick of Durham; and from thence ſtrike down South into the Centre of the County, and ſo take a Trip Eaſt into the Heart of the North-riding, to ſee the Towns that lie that Way; and then return Weſt into York, and paſſing thence South-eaſt, take in ſuch Towns as ſtand on the Eaſt-ſide of the Weſt-riding, till I ar⯑rive at the Fall of the Trent into the Humber; and croſſing that River, view the Towns in the Eaſt-riding; and laſtly, follow the Sea-coaſt all the Way up into Durham, which will complete my Tour through the whole County.

LETTER III. CONTAINING A Deſcription of Part of the Weſt-riding of Yorkſhire, and of all the North and Eaſt-ridings, the Biſhoprick of Durham, and the County of Northum⯑berland.

ACcording to what I propoſed in my laſt, I am now going to enter the Weſt-riding of Yorkſhire, from the Eaſt-ſide of Lancaſhire. I muſt pre⯑miſe to you, that all this Part of the County is ſo conſiderable for its Trade, that the Poſt-maſter General has thought fit to eſta⯑bliſh a Croſs-poſt through all the Weſtern Part of England into it, to maintain the Correſpondence of Merchants and Men of Buſineſs, of which all this Side of the Iſland is full. This is a Confirmation of what I have ſo often repeated, of the Great⯑neſs of the Trade carried on in this Part of the Iſland. This Croſs-poſt begins at Plymouth, in the South-weſt Part of England, and leaving the great [124] Weſtern Poſt-road of Exceſter behind, comes away North to Taunton, Bridgwater, and Briſtol; from thence goes on thro' all the great Cities and Towns up the Severn, ſuch as Glouceſter, Worceſter, Bridge⯑north, and Shrewſbury, thence by Weſt Cheſter to Liverpool and Warrington, from whence it turns away Eaſt, and paſſes to Mancheſter, Bury, Rochdale, Halifax, Leeds, and York, and ends at Hull.

By this Means the Merchants at Hull have imme⯑diate Advice of their Ships which go out of the Chanel, and come in, by their Letters from Ply⯑mouth, as readily as the Merchants of London, and without the double Charge of Poſtage. The Shop⯑keepers and Manufacturers can correſpond with their Dealers at Mancheſter, Liverpool, and Briſtol, nay, even with Ireland directly, without the tedious In⯑terruption of ſending their Letters about by London.

I followed this Poſt-road from Liverpool to Bury, both manufacturing Towns in Lancaſhire, and the laſt very conſiderable for a Sort of coarſe Goods, called Half-thicks and Kerſies. The Market for them is very great, tho' the Town is ſituated ſo remote, ſo out of the way, and at the very Foot of the Mountains, that it would otherwiſe be but little frequented.

Rochdale, farther on in our Way to Black-ſtone Edge, is a good Market-town, and is of late very much improved in the Woollen Manufacture, as are alſo the Villages in its Neighbourhood.

Here, for our great Encouragement, tho' it was but about the Middle of Auguſt, and in ſome Places the Harveſt hardly got in, we ſaw the Mountains covered with Snow, and felt the Cold very acute and piercing; but we found, as in all thoſe Northern Countries, the People had a happy Way of mixing the Warm and the Cold together; for the Store of good Ale, which flows plentifully in the moſt moun⯑tainous Part of this Country, ſeems abundantly to [125] make up for all the Inclemencies of the Seaſon, or Difficulties of Travelling, adding alſo the Plenty of Coals for Firing, of which all thoſe Hills are full.

We mounted the Hills, fortified with a little of this Precaution, early in the Morning; and tho' the Snow, which had fallen in the Night, lay a little upon the Ground, yet we thought it was not much; and the Morning being calm and clear, we had no Apprehenſion of an uneaſy Paſſage, neither did the People at Rochdale, who kindly directed us the Way, and even offered to guide us over the firſt Mountains, apprehend any Difficulty for us; ſo we complimented ourſelves out of their Aſſiſtance, which we afterwards very much wanted.

For tho' the Sun ſhone when we came out of the Town of Rochdale, yet when we began to mount the Hills about a Mile from it, we found the Wind riſe, and the higher we went, the more it increaſed upon us; by which I ſoon perceived, that it had blown before, and perhaps all Night, upon the Hills, though it was calm below. And ſo we were obliged, in a moſt diſcouraging manner, to travel thro' track⯑leſs Drifts of Snow, and it continuing ſnowing too in our Faces, over Blackſtone Edge, we knew not whether we were wrong or right, till we perceived ſome Land-marks, that the honeſt Rochdale Men had told us of, which gave us great Comfort.

But after we had paſſed this diſmal Edge, it was our conſtant Labour, as ſoon as we were at the Top of a Hill, to come down it again on the other Side, and then another Hill aroſe. I do not re⯑member, that there was one Bottom, that had any conſiderable Breadth of plain Ground in it, but al⯑ways a Brook in the Valley running from thoſe Gulls and Deeps between the Hills; and it was ob⯑ſervable, that they always croſs'd our Way in the Bottoms from the Right-hand to the Left, the Rea⯑ſon of which you ſhall ſee preſently.

[126]From Blackſtone Edge to Halifax is eight Miles, and all the Way, except from Sorby to Halifax, is thus up Hill and down; ſo that, I ſuppoſe, we mounted to the Clouds, and deſcended to the Water-level, about eight times, in that little Part of the Journey.

But now I muſt obſerve to you, that after we had paſſed the ſecond Hill, and come down into the Valley again, and ſo ſtill the nearer we came to Halifax, we found the Houſes thicker, and the Vil⯑lages greater, in every Bottom; and not only ſo, but the Sides of the Hills, which were very ſteep every way, were ſpread with Houſes; for the Land being divided into ſmall Incloſures, from two Acres to ſix or ſeven each, ſeldom more, every three or four Pieces of Land had a Houſe belonging to them.

In ſhort, after we had mounted the third Hill, we found the Country one continued Village, tho' every way mountainous, hardly a Houſe ſtanding out of a Speaking-diſtance from another; and as the Day cleared up, we could ſee at every Houſe a Tenter, and on almoſt every Tenter a Piece of Cloth, Kerſie, or Shalloon, which are the three Articles of this Country's Labour.

In the Courſe of our Road among the Houſes, we found at every one of them a little Rill or Gut⯑ter of running Water; if the Houſe was above the Road, it came from it, and croſſed the Way to run to another; if the Houſe was below us, it croſſed [...] from ſome other diſtant Houſe above it; and at every conſiderable Houſe was a Manufactory, which not being able to be carried on without Water, theſe little Streams were ſo parted and guided by Gutters or Pipes, that not one of the Houſes wanted its ne⯑ceſſary Appendage of a Rivulet.

Again, as the Dying-houſes, Scouring-ſhops, and Places where they uſe this Water, emit it ting'd with the Drugs of the Dying-vat, and with the Oil, the [127] Soap, the Tallow, and other Ingredients uſed by the Clothiers in Dreſſing and Scouring, &c. the Lands thro' which it paſſes, which otherwiſe would be ex⯑ceeding barren, are enrich'd by it to a Degree beyond Imagination.

Then, as every Clothier muſt neceſſarily keep one Horſe, at leaſt, to fetch home his Wooll and his Proviſions from the Market, to carry his Yarn to the Spinners, his Manufacture to the Fulling-mill, and, when finiſhed, to the Market to be ſold, and the like; ſo every one generally keeps a Cow or two for his Family. By this means, the ſmall Pieces of incloſed Land about each Houſe are oc⯑cupied; and by being thus fed, are ſtill farther im⯑proved from the Dung of the Cattle. As for Corn, they ſcarce ſow enough to feed their Cocks and Hens.

Such, it ſeems, has been the Bounty of Nature to this Country, that two Things eſſential to Life, and more particularly to the Buſineſs followed here, are found in it, and in ſuch a Situation, as is not to be met with in any Part of England, if in the World beſide: I mean, Coals and running Water on the Tops of the higheſt Hills. I doubt not but there are both Springs and Coals lower in theſe Hills; but were they to fetch them thence, 'tis probable the Pits would be too full of Water: 'tis eaſy, however, to fetch them from the upper Pits, the Horſes going light up, and coming down loaden. This Place then ſeems to have been deſigned by Providence for the very Purpoſes to which it is now allotted, for carrying on a Manufacture, which can no-where be ſo eaſily ſupplied with the Conveniencies neceſſary for it. Nor is the Induſtry of the People wanting to ſecond theſe Advantages. Tho' we met few People without Doors, yet within we ſaw the Houſes full of luſty Fellows, ſome at the Dye-vat, ſome at the Loom, others dreſſing the Cloths; the [128] Women and Children carding, or ſpinning; all imployed from the youngeſt to the oldeſt, ſcarce any thing above four Years old, but its Hands were ſufficient for its own Support. Not a Beggar to be ſeen, not an idle Perſon, except here and there in an Alms-houſe, built for thoſe that are antient and paſt working. The People in general live long; they enjoy a good Air, and under ſuch Circumſtances hard Labour is naturally attended with the Bleſſing of Health, if not Riches.

From this Account, you'll eaſily imagine, that ſome of theſe remote Parts of the North are the moſt populous Places of Great Britain, London and its Neighbourhood excepted.

We have all this while been in the Pariſh of Hali⯑fax, and before I come to the Town, I muſt add a Word or two of the River Calder, to complete the Deſcription of the Country I paſſed through. As I ſaid before, that all the Rills of Water which we croſſed, one at leaſt in every Bottom, went away to the Left or North Side of us, as we went Eaſtward, I am to add, that following thoſe little Brooks with our Eye, we could obſerve, that at ſome Diſtance to the Left there appeared a larger Valley than the reſt, into which not only all the Brooks which we paſſed emptied themſelves, but abundance more from the hollow deep Bottoms among the Hills on the North-ſide beyond it, which emptied this way South, as thoſe on our Side run that way North. And at the next Village, called Sorby, or Sowerby, we paſſed a conſiderable River (form'd from thoſe Brooks, and the melted Snows) over a ſtately Stone Bridge of ſeveral great Arches. And this was the main River Calder, which I mentioned at Wakefield, where it begins to be navigable, and which, without any Spring, may be called the Head of it.

The ſame Obſervation will hold on moſt of the great Rivers in the North; there being hardly any [129] that have their Beginning in any publick Springs or Lakes, as the Rivers in the South of England gene⯑rally have; which is the Caſe particularly of the Derwent and the Don from the High Peak, and the Hills of the ſame Range more South of the Edge; of the Aire, the Wherfe, the Swale, the Eure, the Nyd, the Tees, and the Were, all in the ſame County of York; and the Tyne, the Cockett, the Till, and the Tweed, farther North; and even the Forth, the Tay, the Clyde, the Nyd, in Scotland; and the Merſee, the Ribble, the Rocke, and the Lune, the Weſt Calder, the Lowther, and the Eden, on the other Side of theſe Mountains, in Lancaſhire, Weſt⯑morland, and Cumberland.

Having thus accounted for them all at once, I ſhall only mention them now as they come in my way; for you will obſerve, I croſſed one or other of them at every conſiderable Town, all the Rivers as well in England as in Scotland, North of this Place, running from the middle of the Country where theſe Mountains riſe, either Eaſt into the German, or Weſt into the Iriſh Sea. None of them run like the Severn, or the Wye, or the Rivers in South Wales, or the Exe in Devon, or the Avon in Wilts, or the Arun in Suſſex, and others North and South. But I return to my Journey.

Having paſſed the Calder at Sorby Bridge, I now came to the Town of Halifax, the moſt populous Pariſh or Vicarage in England; for it is but one, though 12 Miles in Diameter; but it has 12 or 13 Chapels of Eaſe, beſides about 16 Meeting-houſes, which they call alſo Chapels, being conformable in Faſhion to them, having Bells and Burying-ground to moſt of them, not reckoning thoſe of the Qua⯑kers into the Number.

In the Year 1443, there were but 30 Houſes in it; but in the next Century it was much increaſed: for Hiſtory tells us, that Queen Elizabeth being [130] petition'd by the Inhabitants of Halifax, to grant them ſome Privileges, they ſet forth, as an Inſtance of their Loyalty, that no leſs than 12000 young Men went out armed from this one Pariſh, and, at her Majeſty's Call, joined her Troops to fight the Popiſh Army, then in Rebellion under the Earl of Weſtmorland.

If they then were ſo populous, what muſt they be now their Trade is ſo vaſtly inlarged by the great Demand of Kerſeys for cloathing the Armies abroad? Some maintain, that it is increaſed a fourth at leaſt within theſe 50 Years; from their having entred upon a Manufacture of Shalloons, which were never made in theſe Parts before, at leaſt, not in any Quantities; and 'tis computed, that 100,000 Pieces are work'd up in this Pariſh only; and yet they do not make much fewer Kerſeys than they did before; for I was aſſured, that there was one Dealer in the Vicarage, who traded, by Commiſſion, for 60000l. a Year in Kerſeys only, to Holland and Hamburgh. And of late Years it is ſtill more increaſed, by the People of a neighbouring Part driving away about 4000 Iriſh Manufacturers, who with about 2000 others accompanying them, ſettled there. As the Vicarage is thus far extended, and ſo populous, what muſt the Market be which ſupplies this vaſt Num⯑ber of Inhabitants? And yet theſe are all brought from other Parts of the Country. For as to Corn, they ſow little, and they feed very few Oxen or Sheep; and as they are ſurrounded with large ma⯑nufacturing Towns on every Side, all of them im⯑ployed, like themſelves, in the Clothing Trade, they muſt neceſſarily have their Proviſions from other more diſtant Parts.

The Conſequence then is plain; their Corn comes up in great Quantities out of Lincoln, and Notting⯑hamſhire, and the Eaſt-riding; the Black Cattle from thence, and from Lancaſhire; Sheep and [131] Mutton from the adjacent Counties every way; Butter from the Eaſt and North-ridings; and Cheeſe out of Cheſhire and Warwickſhire.

The Markets in the Months of September and October are prodigiouſly thronged, that being the Time when the Clothiers buy up as many Oxen as will ſerve their Family for the whole Year, which they uſed to drive Home, kill, ſalt, and hang up in the Smoke to dry. This was heretofore their common Diet, but now they live more upon freſh Meats.

Thus one trading manufacturing Part of the Coun⯑try in a barren Soil, gives and receives Support from all the Countries round it.

There is nothing extraordinary in the Town itſelf; but the Multitude of People who reſort to it on a Market-day, as well to ſell their Manufactures, as to buy Proviſions, is prodigious: in this reſpect no Places equal it in all the North Part of England, except Leeds and Wakefield.

The Church is old, but ſtately and venerable, and has in it many extraordinary Monuments, but moſt of them of great Antiquity. Here is a very good Hoſpital, and a Work-houſe of an antient Eſtabliſh⯑ment; and there are ſeveral Charities of like Sort, in different Parts of the Pariſh.

Halifax gave Birth to John of Halifax, or de Sacro Boſco, the chief Mathematician of his Age, who was buried at the publick Expence of the Univerſity of Paris; and to the late Archbiſhop Tillotſon, the Mo⯑del of true rational Preaching; tho' a new Sect, lately ſprung up, called Methodiſts, with great Pre⯑tences to Meekneſs, and intolerable Conceit and Va⯑nity, at preſent ſeek publickly to depreciate the Memory and Works of that truly great Man.

The Courſe of Juſtice antiently made uſe of here to prevent the ſtealing of Cloth, is very remarkable. Modern Authors pretend to ſay it was for all Sorts [132] of Felons; but I am well aſſured, it was firſt erected purely, or at leaſt principally, for ſuch Thieves as were detected in ſtealing Cloth from the Tenters: and it ſeems very reaſonable to think it was ſo, be⯑cauſe of the Conditions of the Trial. The following is a brief Account of it:

The Woollen Manufacture was erected here about the Year 1480, when King Henry VII. cauſed an Act to paſs prohibiting the Exportation of unwrought Wooll, and to encourage foreign Manufacturers to ſettle in England; ſeveral of whom coming over, eſtabliſhed different Manufactures of Cloths in dif⯑ferent Parts of the Kingdom, as that of Bays at Colcheſter. Says at Sudbury, Broad-cloth in Wilts, and other Counties; and the Trade of Kerſeys and narrow Cloth at this Place, and other adjacent Towns. And as, at the Time when this Trade began, nothing was more frequent than for young Workmen to leave their Cloths out all Night upon Tenters, which gave an Opportunity for the idle Fellows to ſteal them, a ſevere Law was made againſt ſtealing Cloth, which gave the Power of Life and Death into the Hands of the Magiſtrates of Halifax. But this Law was extended to no other Crime; and the Con⯑ditions of it, as I have ſaid, intimate as much: for the Power was not given to the Magiſtrates to give Sen⯑tence, unleſs in one of theſe three plain Caſes:

• 1. Hand Napping, that is, when the Criminal was taken in the very Fact.
• 2. Back Bearing, that is, when the Cloth was found upon him.
• 3. Tongue Confeſſing, which needs no Explanation.

The Fact likewiſe was to be committed within the Liberties or Precincts of the Foreſt of Hard⯑wick; and the Value of the Goods ſtolen was to be above thirteen Pence Halfpeny.

When the Criminal was taken, he was brought before the Magiſtrates of the Town, and they judged, [133] ſentenced, and executed the Offender, or cleared him, within ſo many Days; I think it was three Market Days. If the Offence was committed out of the Vicarage, but within the Bounds of the Foreſt, then there were Frith Bourgers alſo to judge of the Fact, who were to be ſummoned out of the Foreſt Holders, as they are called, who were to hold of that Frith, that is, of the Foreſt. If they acquitted him of the Fact, he was immediately diſcharged; if they condemned him, nobody could reprieve him but the Town. The Country People were, it ſeems, ſo terrified at the Severity of this Proceeding, that hence came that Proverbial Litany, which was uſed all over Yorkſhire:

Hull was included in this Petition, on account of their rigid Diſcipline to Beggars; for they whipt out the foreign Poor, and ſet their own to work.

The Manner of Execution was very remarkable, by an Ax drawn up by a Pulley, and faſtened with a Pin to the Side of a Wooden Engine, which when pulled out, the Axe fell ſwiftly down, and did its Office.

The Engine is now gone, but the Baſis on which it ſtood ſtill remains, being a ſquare Foundation of Stone, to which you go up by Steps. The Engine was removed, as we were told, in the Year 1620, during the Reign of K. James I.

In the Reign of the ſame Prince, the Earl of Morton, Regent of Scotland, paſſing thro' Halifax, and ſeeing one of theſe Executions, cauſed a Model to be taken, and carried into his own Country, where it is made uſe of at this Day. But his Lord⯑ſhip's own Head was the firſt that was cut off with it; and it being many Years before that happened, the [134] Engine got the Name of the Maiden, before it was handſelled by the Execution of the Earl; and this it retains, tho' it has cut off many a Head ſince.

The Ways to Halifax uſed to be exceedingly bad, and, except at the Weſt Entrance, almoſt inacceſſible; but of late Years they have been much mended; and ſeveral Acts of Parliament have paſſed very lately, which will greatly increaſe the Conveniences of the People thereabouts, as well as improve its Commerce and Communication all around it, to Lancaſter, as well as to Leeds, Doncaſter, and all the great trading Towns, even to the City of York itſelf.

Due Eaſt from Halifax, is Kirkley, a ſmall Vil⯑lage, ſituated on the Calder, near which is the Mo⯑nument of the famous Robin Hood; and upon the Moor, his Butts, Two little Hills, ſo called, about a Quarter of a Mile aſunder. I have now traced this Hero from the Foreſt of Shirwood, the Scene of his Exploits, to his Grave. I before doubted whe⯑ther there ever was ſuch an one; but Epitaphs, as great Liars as they are, I ſuppoſe, are Evidence that ſuch a Man once exiſted. His is as follows:

Near this Place is a little Town, called Burſtall, where they make Broad Cloth, ſo called in Diſtinction from Kerſeys and Druggets, and the like, tho' the Cloths in this Country are called Narrow, when they are ſpoken of in London, and compared with the Broad Cloths made in Wilts, Glouceſter, Somerſet, and Devonſhire.

This Town is famed for Dying, and there are made here a ſort of Cloth in Imitation of Glouceſter Whites, [135] which, tho' they may not be ſo fine, yet their Co⯑lours are as good.

From hence to Leeds, and every way round, the Country appears exceedingly buſy and diligent. The Houſes are not ſcatter'd and diſperſed, as in the Pariſh of Halifax, but crouded up in large Villages, and thronged with People.

A few Miles South-weſt of Halifax is Huthersfield, upon the Calder, which is the firſt noted Town it comes to. This Town is one of the Five, where that vaſt Clothing-trade, which I have already men⯑tioned, is carried on. They have a Market here for Kerſeys every Tueſday.

While I am ſpeaking of their Manufactures, I muſt not forget that very eſſential one, called York⯑ſhire Ale, which indeed is in its Perfection in all this Part of the County. But I cannot paſs over Hu⯑thersfield without taking notice of its old Neighbour, Almondbury, a famous Town in the Time of the Romans, and called Campodunum; but 'tis now a Village only. Mr. Camden calls it a Royal Town; and ſays, it had a Cathedral Church in it, dedicated to St. Alban, from whom it was called Albanbury, whence its preſent Name. The Ruins of a Stone Caſtle and Rampire are ſtill to be ſeen near it.

The River Calder having been made navigable to Wakefield, and great Benefit ariſing from it, it is now [Ann. 1741.] about to be made further navigable, to the Towns of Ealand and Halifax; which will be of inexpreſſible Service to thoſe populous and improving Places, and all the Villages and Towns adjacent. And as there have juſt paſſed new Acts to mend the Road from Selby to Leeds, Bradford, and Halifax, and from Ealand to Leeds, which have been torn in Pieces by the heavy Carriages paſſing to and fro in the carrying on the vaſt extended Trade of thoſe Parts; 'tis hardly to be conceived what Benefit will accrue from theſe publick Works.

[136]The firſt Town we came to from Halifax, was Bradford. It has a Market; but is of no other Note than having given Birth to Dr. Sharp, the good Arch⯑biſhop of York.

We ſoon enter'd Craven, which is a very hilly and craggy Country, as the Name ſignifies; for Craven comes from the Britiſh Word Craig, a Rock. But, however unpleaſant,

We proceeded farther North-weſt, and arrived at Skipton, a good well-built Town, encompaſſed with Hills on every Side. The Market is well frequented and ſupplied. Here is a large handſome Church, and a good Grammar School; to which one Mr. Petyt, who had been principal of Bernard's-Inn, London, gave a conſiderable Parcel of Books, and like⯑wiſe erected a good Library in the Church. We were agreeably ſurpriſed to find ſo handſome a Town, and ſuch good Accommodations in ſo mountainous a Country.

This is a healthy Country however, and the In⯑habitants live to a great Age: a Father and Son giving Evidence at the Aſſizes at York, it appeared the firſt was 140, and the Son 100 Years old.

Here the Road turns almoſt due Weſt, which brought us to a Town called Settle, a much better Town than we expected in ſuch a Country. It lies on the Road to Lancaſter, at the Foot of the Moun⯑tains which part that County from Yorkſhire, upon the River Ribble.

And a little lower, upon the ſame River, upon the Borders of Lancaſhire, ſtands Giſborne, but has nothing remarkable in it.

Looking forwards, to the North-weſt of us, we ſaw nothing but high Mountains, which had a terrible Aſpect, and more frightful than any in Monmouth⯑ſhire or Derbyſhire, eſpecially Pingent Hill, which Camden derives from the Britiſh Word Pengwin, i. e. White-head, from the Snow lying upon it: ſo [137] that having no manner of Inclination to encounter them, merely for the ſake of ſeeing only a few Vil⯑lages, and a Parcel of wild People, we turned ſhort North-eaſt, and came to the great Road leading Northward to Richmond, at a Village called Brum⯑ſtal, noted for the Birth of Sir William Craven, an Alderman of London, who was a great Founder and Builder of Churches, Bridges, Cauſways, and other publick Edifices in this Country.

Having paſſed thro' ſome other inconſiderable Vil⯑lages, we enter'd Midlam, a little Market-town on the River Youre, and the North-riding of Yorkſhire together, and ſo leaving Maſham, another inconſi⯑derable Market-town, which lay upon the ſame River, to the South-eaſt of us, we paſſed along to Bedal, which is likewiſe of no great Note, ſaving that the Living is worth 500l. a Year, and that we met here again the Roman Cauſway, which leads up through Richmond to Barnards Caſtle, in the Biſhop⯑rick of Durham, and is called Leeming-lane for 20 Miles together. We put ourſelves upon this Way, and were not long before we arrived at Richmond.

Tho' I met with nothing elſe within the Town of Bedal worth obſerving, yet the Country round it, as indeed the whole County, is more or leſs full of Jockies, and Dealers in Horſes; and the Breed in this, and the next County, is ſo well known, that tho' the Pedigree of them is not preſerved for a Suc⯑ceſſion of Ages, as 'tis ſaid they do in Arabia, yet are their Stallions denominated by certain Names, that never fail to advance the Price of a Horſe accord⯑ing to the Reputation of the Sire he comes of.

And indeed, let Foreigners boaſt what they will of Barbs and Turkiſh Horſes, or of the Spaniſh Jennets from Cordoua, for which 500l. apiece have been given, I believe that ſome of the Gallopers of this County, and of the Biſhoprick of Durham, which joins to it, will out-do, for Speed and Strength, the ſwifteſt Horſe [138] that was ever bred in Turkey or Barbary, take both Advantages together. For tho' the Barb may beat Yorkſhire for a Mile Courſe, Yorkſhire ſhall diſtance him at the End of the Four Miles; the Barb ſhall carry the Day with Seven and a half, but Yorkſhire with 12 and 14 Stone. In a word, Yorkſhire ſhall carry the Man, and the Barb a Feather. But they are univerſally allowed to be the beſt Hunting and Road Horſes in the World; and are bought up by Foreigners on that Account.

As this Part of the Country is ſo much imployed in Horſes, the young Fellows are bred up in the Sta⯑ble, and make excellent Grooms.

Beſides their Fame for Horſes, they have the Re⯑putation alſo of being good Grafiers over this whole Country, and produce a large, noble Breed of Oxen, as may be ſeen at North Allerton Fairs, where in⯑credible Numbers of them are bought Eight times every Year, and brought Southward as far as the Fens in Lincolnſhire, and the Iſle of Ely, where they are fed up to the Groſſneſs of Fat we ſee in London Markets. The Market theſe North Country Cattle are generally brought to, is at St. Ives, a Town be⯑tween Huntingdon and Cambridge, upon the River Ouſe.

Richmond is ſo called from its Situation upon a Hill or Mount, fruitful, tho' the Country about it is rocky and barren; and it gives the Name of Richmondſhire to the Diſtrict it is in, as another, Eaſt of this, is called Allertonſhire: the former is in the Dioceſe of Cheſter, and the latter in that of Durham.

This Town, in the Time of Richard II. was annexed to the Duchy of Lancaſter, and ſo ſtill con⯑tinues. Earl Edwin built a Caſtle here, the Tower o [...] which is ſtill ſtanding; as is alſo the Steeple of the old Priory. It is a Borough governed by a Mayor, &c. and holds Pleas in all kinds of Action; has a good Market-place, and Three Gates, which lead to [139] Three different Suburbs. It is well built all of Stone, and ſome Houſes of Free-ſtone.

We were told, That in the Year 1732, Mr. Whar⯑ton of Newcaſtle, Agent to his Grace the Duke of Richmond, by ordering ſeveral Places here to be dug very deep, diſcovered the Draw-bridge and Moat be⯑longing to Richmond Caſtle, which were of very curious Workmanſhip.

Here thrives a kind of Manufactory of knit Yarn Stockens for Servants, and ordinary People. Every Family is imployed that way, both great and ſmall; and here you may buy the ſmalleſt ſized Stockens for Children for 1s. 6d. the Dozen Pair, ſometimes leſs.

This Trade extends itſelf alſo into Weſtmorland, or rather from Weſtmorland hither: for at Kendal, Kirkby-Stephen, and ſuch other Places in this County as border upon Yorkſhire, the chief Manufacture of Yarn Stockens is carried on, which is indeed a very conſiderable one, and of late greatly increaſed.

We made ſome Excurſions from this Town into the Country round it, and followed the River Swal [...] Weſt, which runs under the Wall of the Caſtle of Richmond, and, by reaſon of Rocks, which intercept its Paſſage, forms here a natural Cataract. This River, tho' not extraordinary large, is noted for giving Name to the Lands which it runs through for ſome Length, called Swale Dale, and to an antient Family of that Name; the laſt of whom was Sir Solomon Swale, Bart. who wrote himſelf of Swale Hall, in Swale Dale, by the River Swale. This Gentleman became unfortunate, and was ſupplanted by a Perſon not long ſince dead, who was a Clerk in the Exchequer Office; and obſerving this Family held their Eſtate of the Crown, and that they had omitted to renew for many Years, procured a Grant from the Crown, of this Eſtate for himſelf. A great many Law-ſuits enſued; but to no other Effect [140] than to increaſe the Misfortunes of this Gentleman, who died a Priſoner in the Fleet, but, I think, not till his Adverſary had firſt made away with himſelf.

Swale Dale is a low, pleaſant, and rich Valley, abounding with Graſs, but very bare of Wood; tho' here is a Place juſt by, called Swale Dale Foreſt: it might have been ſo antiently, but there are hardly Trees enough in it now to denominate it a Foreſt.

Not [...]ar from this Foreſt lies Wenſdale, a very rich and fruitful Valley, well covered with delicate green Graſs, and ſtocked with vaſt Herds of Cattle; and, in ſome Places, produces Lead Ore. The Eure runs thro' the Midſt of it, and riſes in th [...] Weſtern Mountains, very near the S [...]rce of the Swale, which, as it were, leaps into it from a Precipice at Myton. Both theſe Rivers are plentifully ſtocked with Fiſh, and Eure has Cra [...]ſh in it.

But let me ſtop in this [...]ce, to take Notice of one of the greateſt Ra [...]es that England ever pro⯑duced; I mean Henry Jenkins, whoſe remarkable great Age deſerves our particular Notice: He was born in the Year 1500, and died in 1670, being then 169 Years of Age. There are no Regiſters of ſo long a Date, and therefore his Age muſt be gueſſed at by other Circumſtances, either from his own Account, or the probable Evidences of others. Which are theſe:

Firſt, Being demanded by a Gentlewoman, who was curious to know, as exactly as poſſible how old he was, What Kings he remembred; he anſwered, after a little Pauſe, ‘"That he thought himſelf about 162 or 163 Years old; and that he could remem⯑ber Plowden (meaning Floddon) Field, fought againſt the Scots, in King Henry VIII.'s Reign."’ She then aſk'd him: ‘"Was the King himſelf there?"’ He replied, ‘"No; he was in France, and the Earl of Surrey was General."’ She aſked him then, ‘"How old he was then?"’ He ſaid, [141] ‘"About 12 Years old."’ That Battle was fought September 9. 1513; King Henry being then at Tournay.

Secondly, There were Four or Five of the ſame Pariſh, at that time, of an 100 Years old or very near it, who all declared, That they never knew him any other than an elderly Man; and that he told them he was Butler to the Lord Coniers. The laſt of that Name died without Iſſue 3 & 4 Philip and Mary I. An. Dom. 1557. And he remembred the Ab⯑bot of Fountains, before the Diſſolution in King Henry VIII.'s Time.

Thirdly, He went often to the Aſſizes on Foot; and was uſed as a Witneſs in other Courts, whoſe Records ſpeak largely of his Age. In the Chancery he was ſworn, to the Remembrance of above 140 Years; and as much, often, at York Aſſizes. In the King's Remembrancer's Office in the Exchequer, a Record ſaith, ‘"That Henry Jenkins, Labourer, aged 157 Years, depoſed, as a Witneſs, in 1665; and, to confirm his Age, divers antient Men, who were Witneſſes, ſwore that he was a very old Man when they firſt knew him."’

He was, for the laſt Century of his Life, a Fiſher⯑man, and uſed to wade and ſwim in the Rivers even after he was an hundred Years old, and lived upon very coarſe Diet. In ſome of his laſt Years, being unable to work at his Trade, he went a begging to Gentlemens Houſes, who uſed to relieve him chear⯑fully, as a great Curioſity. And his great Age was the more to be credited, becauſe he could neither write nor read: and ſo, what he reported, was from Strength of Memory Two Years before his Death, he was able to bind Sheaves after the Reapers, and had his Sight and Hearing to the laſt.

The next Excurſion we made was up to the Banks of the Tees, thro' Gilling, Eggleſton, and Bowes, now ordinary Towns, or rather Villages; tho' the [142] firſt had, formerly, a great Caſtle; which, in the Conqueror's Time, and long afterwards, was the Seat of the Lords of that Country; whereas Rich⯑mond, which has ſince roſe out of the Ruins of Gil⯑ling, was but a Fort, and in Subordination to it.

Eggleſton is famous for Marble, which they dig out of the Rocks there, and imploys a great many Hands.

Bowes ſtands upon the Military Roman Way, and has been therefore, undoubtedly, a Place of great Note.

In this Part of Richmondſhire, and up Northward, are no leſs than Three Foreſts, viz. Applegarth Foreſt, New Foreſt, and Lune Foreſt; and all theſe within a Tract of Ground of no great Extent. Not far off is, beſides, the Foreſt of Swale Dale, before-mentioned.

The Tees is famous for Salmon, and is a rapid River, and ſometimes ſwells up ſo ſuddenly, that a Man, in paſſing the Ford, in the Road to Darlington, on Foot, whilſt the Water was low, and hardly up to his Knees, was overtaken, as he was going over, by a ſudden Swell of the Stream, and carried off and drown'd. The People this way talk much of an antient City they had formerly here⯑about. The Antiquaries agree, there was one called by the Romans, Cataractonium, but differ as to its Situation; but, I think, Mr. Salmon has placed it moſt probably upon the Confluences of the Tees and Greta, at a Place called Merton; where indeed the Remains of it are very viſible; and alſo about Greta⯑bridge, which is juſt by it.

We croſſed the River, and entered Bernard's-caſtle, which lies on the North Side of it, and con⯑ſequently within the Biſhoprick of Durham. It was built by the Grandfather of Baliol, King of Scot⯑land, and is an antient well-built Town, but not large. Here they have an excellent Art of dreſſing [143] their Hides into Leather, out of which they make the beſt Bridles, Reins, and Belts; as at Rippon they were wont to furniſh you with the beſt Spurs and Stirrups.

The Manufacture for Stockens continues thus far, and flouriſhes here and at Marwood, and other little Villages on the Borders of Durham; but the Jockey-trade extends much farther.

Between this Part of the Biſhoprick where this Town ſtands, on the Eaſt, and Lancaſter on the Weſt, a mountainous Tract of Yorkſhire runs, like a Promontory, up Northward a great way, Hill upon upon Hill, Cliffs, Rocks, and terrible Precipices, moſt aſtoniſhing to behold. This rugged Part of the Country is called Stanmore Hills, which are deſolate and ſolitary, excepting one Inn, for the Entertain⯑ment of ſuch as may be hardy enough to go among them. As for us, we did not think it worth our while. But here are, it ſeems, abundance of the Frolicks of Nature in Stone, which exactly reſemble Serpents, and other various Forms.

The Weſt Side of the Biſhoprick being very mountainous too, and correſponding with that of Stanmore, we turned North-eaſt, to viſit a little Market-town, but a little way off, called Stainthorp; but being of no other Note than having a ſtately Tomb in the Church to the Memory of one of the Nevils, and his two Wives, we paſſed on to Raby Caſtle, which ſtands juſt by it, the antient Seat of that Family; but now of the Lord Vane. But it has nothing remarkable in it.

We came next to Piers-bridge, to which the Roman Cauſway leads, or, as they call it, Leeming-lane. Here have been many remarkable Remains of Antiquity dug up, and particularly an old Altar⯑piece. We thought to have returned by this Bridge into Yorkſhire; but were deſirous to take in Darling⯑ton firſt, and paſs over the Tees there.

[144] Darlington is remarkable for its dirty Situation; for a beautiful Church, with a high Spire riſing up from the Midſt of it; and for a good long Stone Bridge, over very little or no Water. It is a large con⯑ſiderable Market-town of great Reſort, and well ſupplied. The Market-place is large and convenient. It is noted for the Linen Manufacture, as the Water of the Skern, on which it is ſituated, is exceeding good for Bleeching, inſomuch that Linen has been ſent hither from Scotland, to bleech; but it particu⯑larly excels in Huggabags of Ten Quarters wide, which are made no-where elſe in England; and of which, as well as other Linen-cloth, it ſends up large Quantities to London.

A greater Rarity, I may mention in this Town, was our Landlord, at the Fleece Inn, by Name Henry Lovell, who died in May 1739, in the 93d Year of his Age, and had kept this Inn ever ſince 1688. He was never known to have one Hour's Sickneſs, nor even the Head-ach, tho' a free Toper of Ale, ſome⯑times for Days and Nights ſucceſſively, but had an Averſion to Drams of all kinds, retained his Hear⯑ing, Sight and Memory, to his laſt Moments. He never made uſe of Spectacles, nor ever loſt a Tooth. He was eſteemed in his Life, and lamented at his Death, being of a humane Temper, and had the De⯑portment of a Gentleman.

At Oxehall, near this Town, we ſaw the famous Hell Kettles; which are Three deep Pits full of Water; which have occaſioned many fabulous Stories among the Country-people, and divers Conjectures among the Learned; but they ſeem to be nothing elſe but old Coal pits (and yet there is no Coal near them now) filled by the Water of the Tees, thro' ſome ſubterraneous Paſſage, as 'tis ſaid, Biſhop Tun⯑ſtal experienced, by marking a Gooſe, and putting her into one of the Pits; which he found next Day in the Tees. Others ſay, they were occaſioned by an [145] Earthquake, which is recorded in the Chronicle of Tinmouth for the Year 1179, when the Earthquake happened.

We paſſed on Eaſt, and came to Yarum Bridge, where we re-croſſed the Tees. It is a very good and well-built Bridge. The Town is incorporated, and but ſmall, lying near the Influx of the little River Levan into the Tees. It has ſeen much better Days; but, however, of late Years, it is a little recovered, and carries a pretty Trade, by Water, for Lead, Corn, and Butter, with London.

Stokeſby is alſo but a ſmall Market-town, and ſtands near the Source of the ſame River, a few Miles Eaſt of Yarum, inland; which lies in a little Tract of rich and fruitful Ground, called Allertonſhire, and water'd by the River Wyſk. It is a corporate Town, conſiſting of one Street, about half a Mile long, well-built, with a very good Market; and is noted for having the greateſt Beaſt-fair in England.

Here was a bloody Battle fought, in King Stephen's Time, between David King of Scotland and Arch⯑biſhop Tunſtall, who was Lieutenant in theſe Parts for King Stephen, which was called the Battle of the Standard; which, it ſeems, never uſed to be erected but when the Kingdom was in imminent danger. The Biſhop prevailed, and routed the Scots, tho' Henry, King David's Son, kept the Field of Battle with a Band of hardy Soldiers, after the Bulk of the Army was fled, with their King after them; and fought valiantly, till he was overpower'd, and oblig'd to follow his Father.

From hence we advanced ſtill South, and paſſed thro' Thirſk, a corporate Town, which has but an ordinary Market, to Aldborough and Borough-brigg, which lie within Three Miles of Rippon upon the River Eure.

Theſe are Two Borough Towns, each ſending Two Members to Parliament, which is a Circum⯑ſtance [146] peculiar to this Place, and to Weymouth and Melcomb in Dorſetſhire.

Borough-brigg, or Bridge, ſeems to be the modern Town riſen up out of Aldborough, the very Names importing as much, the one being Borough at the Bridge, and the other Old Borough, that was before it. All the Antiquaries are agreed in this, who place on the Side of Aldborough, or Old Borough, an antient City, and Roman Colony, called Iſurium Brigantium. At preſent there are not ſo much as the Ruins of a City to be ſeen above Ground. But the Coins, Urns, Vaults, Pavements, and the like, frequently dug up there, give Evidence to the Thing; and ſome of them are ſo very remarkable, that I cannot chuſe to refer you to Mr. Camden, and his Conti⯑nuator, for farther Satisfaction: only adding to what they have obſerved, that a curious Piece of Antiquity was diſcover'd a few Years ago; which is a Moſaick Pavement of ſingular Form and Beauty, brought to light on digging the Foundation of a Houſe, and which is now about Two Feet from the Level of the Street.

At the Door of the College is another teſſelated Pavement of a different Form from the other, and tho' not above Three Yards from it, it is a Foot nearer the Surface of the Street. The former is compoſed of white and black Squares, with a Border of red; but the Stones of this are leſſer Squares, and are white, yellow, red, and blue.

Not long ſince more Pavements of this kind were diſcover'd on an Eminence called Borough-hill; as alſo the Foundations of a conſiderable Building; two Baſes of Pillars of ſome regular Order; large Stones of the grit Kind, with Joints for Cramping; ſacri⯑ficing Veſſels; Flews for Conveyance of Smoke, or warm Air; Bones and Horns of Beaſts, moſtly Stags; an Ivory Needle; and a Copper Roman Stylus: from all which it may reaſonably be ſuppoſed, [147] that a Temple formerly ſtood in this Place. I had not ſo much Curioſity as to go to ſee the Three great pyramidal Stones in the Fields on the Left-hand, as you go thro' Borough-bridge, which the Country People, being unable to comprehend how they came there, will have to be brought by the Devil, and ſo call them The Devil's Arrows. Mr. Camden deſcribes them, as alſo does Mr. Drake in his Hiſtory of the Antiquities of York, to whom therefore I refer.

Borough-bridge, the lateſt built of the two Towns I have mentioned, is undoubtedly very old; for here, in the Barons Wars, was a Battle; and on this Bridge the great Humphrey de Bohun, Earl of Hereford, was killed by a Soldier, who lay concealed under the Bridge, and wounded him, by thruſting a Spear or Pike, thro' a Chink, into his Body, as he was paſſing over it. From whence we may conclude, with Mr. Camden, that it was a Timber Bridge then, and not built of Stone, as it is now.

At Borough-brigg the Battle was fought between King Edward II. and his Barons, who were defeated, and after enſued the bloody Execution at Pontefract, of the Earl of Lancaſter, and others of the Barons, as I mentioned when I ſpoke of Pontefract.

Theſe Two Borough Towns lying near the Centre of this vaſt County, and on the Skirts of the North and Weſt Ridings, and there being a great many Towns about the Middle of the firſt, that we could not more conveniently viſit than from hence; we therefore ſtruck away Eaſt, and North-eaſt, through the Towns of Hovingham, Rydell, Hemeſley, and Kirkby Moore Side; which is ſo called becauſe it lies on the Side of Blackamoore. But they were far from anſwering our Trouble of going ſo far out of the Way, (excepting that Hemeſley ſeemed to be tolerably well-built with Stone, and the Houſes covered with Slate) the Two firſt having hardly a Market. But the Situation of Rydell is pleaſant, [148] being in a fine fruitful Vale, wherein are 23 Pariſh-churches.

We then turned South-eaſt, and came to Picke⯑ring, a pretty large well-built Town, which has a well-furniſhed Market, and belongs to the Duchy of Lancaſter, having Juriſdiction over ſeveral neigh⯑bouring Villages, and is called, The Honour of Picke⯑ring. It has formerly been a fortified Place, as ap⯑pears by the Ruins of a Caſtle, which lie upon a Hill.

It is ſituate on the Weſt Side of a wild hilly Country, and a Foreſt which is within the Liberty of the Town, and called Pickering Foreſt; which we did not care to traverſe over, and ſo paſſed South-weſt down to Malton on the Derwent.

This Town is divided into Two Parts, by the River, which are called Old and New Malton. The Old is the Camalodunum of the Romans, and was burnt by Thurſtan, Archbiſhop of York, in King Stephen's Cauſe, againſt Euſtace, the Lord of it, who had betray'd Part of this Country into the Hands of the Scots; but Euſtace, being afterwards received into Favour, rebuilt it, and it has been ever ſince called New Malton. Here has been a famous Abbey, and the Church of it is ſtill ſtanding, but very ruinous, tho' the Caſtle is quite demoliſhed.

This Town is well-built and inhabited, and has Two well-ſupplied weekly Markets, which are held by Preſcription; for it is not incorporated. It is the beſt Market in the County for Horſes, Cat⯑tle, and Proviſions; and is noted for Utenſils in Huſbandry. It has likewiſe Three handſome Pariſh Churches, and a good Stone Bridge over the Der⯑went. Near this Town is a Well, whoſe Water is ſaid to have the ſame Virtue as that of Scar⯑borough.

We ſet out from hence, and for ſome Miles coaſted along the Banks of Derwent towards York, taking [149] Hinderſkell in our Way, where the late Earl of Carliſle built the magnificent Seat of Caſtle How⯑ard, upon the Spot of Ground where the old Caſtle ſtood, in the middle of a Wood; but his Lordſhip died before it was finiſh'd. I ſhall mention this again by-and-by.

But I muſt not omit, that on the South-ſide of the Derwent, we ſaw Auldby, a little Village, where, 'tis ſaid, ſtood, in the Roman Times, a City called Derventis, where a Company named Derventienſes was ſtation'd.

The Derwent is a River very full of Water, and overflows its Banks, and all the neighbouring Mea⯑dows, always after Rain. It is likewiſe well-ſtock'd with Fiſh, and runs between the Eaſt and North Ridings.

We are now entering the great City of York, the Eboracum of the Romans, and of ſuch Account in their Time, that no leſs than Three Military Ways paſs'd thro' it; and it was not only a Roman Colony, but the Seat of ſome of the Emperors, and principal Generals, particularly of Severus and Conſtantius Chlorus, the Father of Conſtantine the Great.

In our Approach to it we diſcovered many viſible Marks of Antiquity, not reducible to Deſcription; and tho' Time and Misfortunes have ſo deeply effaced all Traces of its once glorious Splendor, yet ſome noble Remains of Majeſty are ſtill to be ſeen there, eſpecially as we viewed it from a riſing Hill at ſome ſmall Diſtance on the London Road: nay, after we were within the Walls, and had Leiſure to look about, we found ourſelves not diſappointed in the Idea we had before conceived of it; and every Traveller, who is inquiſitive in the Search of Anti⯑quities or Curioſities, will be tempted to make ſome Stay at York; there being a very great Variety of each to detain and amuſe him.

[150]Among the former I ſhall only mention the Arch at Micklegate-bar, and the multangular Tower and Wall, near a Place called the Mint-yard, both built in the Time of the Romans. But whether the Two Statues now proſtrate on the Wall of St. Lau⯑rence Church-yard, be Roman or Saxon, is hard to determine: certain it is, that the ſepulchral Mo⯑nument of the Standard-bearer to the Ninth Legion of the Roman Army was dug up near Micklegate; and in other Parts of the City have been found many Roman Altars, Inſcriptions, Urns, Coins and the like, now in the Poſſeſſion of the Curious.

I do not include the Ruins of Abbeys, Churches and Caſtles, now to be ſeen in this Place, among the Antiquities of it, becauſe they are but of a late Date, compared with the antient Remains, of the Roman Skill and Grandeur, and becauſe they would take up more Time and Room than the Nature of my Work will allow.

The City of York is ſurrounded by a ſtrong Wall, kept in good Repair, in which are four Gates, and five Poſterns. It is a County of itſelf, extending ever all the Wapontake, called Ainſty, and is governed by a Mayor, who is ſtyled Lord, as at London, a Recorder, 12 Aldermen, in Commiſſion of the Peace, two Sheriffs, 24 Prime Common-council Men, eight Chamberlains, 72 Common-council Men, a Town-clerk, Sword-bearer, and Common Sergeant; and the Mayor and Aldermen have Conſervation of the Rivers Ouze, Humber, Wherſe, Derwent, Air, and Dun, within certain Limits of each.

This City always gives Title to the ſecond Prince of the Blood Royal, and the two Citizens they re⯑turn to Parliament, have a Privilege of taking their Places in the Houſe of Commons, next the Citizens of London, upon what is called the Privy Counſellor's Bench; a Privilege which, if neglected to be claimed, ought to be made known, as it appertains to the [151] Citizens of London and York only, and is by thoſe of London, exerciſed the firſt Day of the Meeting of every new Parliament.

The Situation of York is in a Plain on both Sides the River Ouſe. It was formerly very populous, and had a great Trade; but has declined ſince the Re⯑formation, and the Difuſe of the Court of Preſident of the North. In Henry the Vth's Time there were 41 Pariſhes, 17 Chapels, 16 Hoſpitals, and nine Abbeys, beſides the Cathedral, and now there are only 17 Churches in Uſe.

The preſent Support of the City is chiefly owing to the Gentry, who make it their Winter Reſidence, as there is great Plenty of Proviſions of all kinds to furniſh an elegant Table at a moderate Expence, ſo that the Altar, which was found there, with a Ro⯑man Inſcription, is applicable to the preſent Circum⯑ſtances of the Place, DIS DEABUSQUE HOSPITA⯑LIBUS. And as the Inhabitants abound with the Conveniencies of Life, they likewiſe partake of its Diverſions, there being Plays, Aſſemblies, Muſick-Meetings, or ſome Entertainments, every Night in the Week.

The publick Edifices which moſt deſerve Mention, I ſhall now take Notice of, and firſt of the Bridge over the Ouſe. It conſiſts of five Arches: the Dia⯑meter of the middle Arch, which was the largeſt in the Kingdom, before that at Blenheim Houſe was built, is 81 Feet, and its Height 51 Feet. The Reaſon it was built ſo wide, was on occaſion of an Accident which once happen'd to it, when upon a ſudden Thaw, which occaſion'd a great Flood, a prodigious Weight of Ice drove down two Arches of the old Bridge, by which 12 Houſes were demo⯑liſhed, and ſeveral Perſons drown'd.

The great Council-chamber for this City, near which the Records are kept, as alſo the Exchequer and Courts of the Sheriffs, and beneath them the [152] two City Priſons for Debtors and Felons, are all upon this Bridge.

The Caſtle which ſtands at the Confluence of the Ouſe, and the Foſs, was built by William the Con⯑queror, Anno 1069; and tho' the Face it now wears, and the Uſe made of it, are ſo different from that which was the primitive State of this Fortreſs, yet in its preſent Diſguiſe, it brought to my Memory that Tragical Scene of Bloodſhed perpetrated within its Walls, upon the 11th of March 1189; which being to be met with in very few Hiſtorians, I ſhall give a brief Account of it.

The Jews, from their firſt Introduction into Eng⯑land, growing immenſly rich by Traffick, never failed to become the Objects of Envy and Hatred, both to Prince and People, and the ſlighteſt Pre⯑tences were always eagerly laid hold of, to plunder them; ſo that on every new Acceſſion or Turn of Affairs, they were forced to compound for their Safety, by large Preſents to the Prince.

At the Acceſſion of Richard I. tho' that Prince gave them no Diſturbance, yet he iſſued out an Order, that no Jew ſhould be preſent at the Cere⯑mony of his Coronation, either at Church or at Dinner.

However the chief of the Jews, from all Parts, being ſummoned to London by their Brethren there, in order to agree upon a rich Gift to the new King to obtain his Favour and Protection, many of them, notwithſtanding the Injunction, had the Curioſity to ſee the Ceremony; and being diſcovered among the Croud by the Guards, they were beat, abuſed, and ſome of them killed.

The People hereupon, being poſſeſſed with a No⯑tion, that the King had given Orders, that the Jews [...] be deſtroyed, began a Maſſacre of them in [...], and plundered and burnt their Houſes, and [...] them many of their Wives and Children.

[153]And tho' the King immediately ordered a Procla⯑mation to ſtop theſe Proceedings, yet the Example at London was followed at Norwich, Lynn, and Stam⯑ford, and with ſtill greater Fury at York, notwith⯑ſtanding the King, at his Departure to the Holy Land, left Orders for the Protection of the Jews, and the Puniſhment of ſuch as ſhould moleſt them; for, being inflamed by a wicked Prieſt, certain bloody Wretches, who had reſolved upon the Deſtruction of the Jews, and to inrich themſelves with their Pillage, ſet Fire to a Part of the City of York; and while the Citi⯑zens were buſy in extinguiſhing the Flames, broke into the Houſe of a principal Jew, who had been murder'd at London, and whoſe Wife had ſtrength⯑ened it for her Defence; and murdering the whole Family, and all who had taken Refuge there, burnt the Houſe to the Ground.

The Jews hereupon, in the utmoſt Terror, got Leave to convey all their Wealth into the Caſtle, and obtain'd Shelter there for their own Perſons, and for their Wives and Children, except ſome few, who were ſacrific'd to the Rage of the Populace; who burnt all the Houſes of the Jews throughout the City.

It unluckily happen'd, that the Governor of the Caſtle having Buſineſs in the Town, the poor Jews, being afraid he went out to agree upon delivering them up to their Enemies, refuſed him Admittance into it; which incenſing him, he apply'd to the High Sheriff, who raiſing the Poſſe Comitatus, beſieged the Caſtle, and reduced the Jews to ſo great Ex⯑tremity, that being refuſed Mercy, tho' they offer'd to buy it at the Expence of immenſe Sums, they took the dreadful Advice of one of their Rabbi's, come lately among them from abroad; and firſt having burnt all their rich Goods, and ſo damnify'd even their Plate, that their barbarous Enemies could not be much the better for their Spoils, they ſet Fire to all the Towers of the Caſtle, and fell each Man to [154] cutting of the Throats of his own Family, till they had deſtroy'd all who came into this dreadful Scheme of their Rabbi's, who, in the laſt Place, followed the Advice he had given.

In the mean time, the Fire of the Caſtle in⯑creaſing, a Number of unhappy Jews, who would not come into this bloody Action, (in vain endea⯑vouring to extinguiſh it) from the Walls beſought the Mercy of the Beſiegers, acquainting them with what had happened; and threw over the dead Bodies of their Brethren, in Confirmation of the Truth of what they ſaid; and offering to become Chriſtians, had Hopes given them of their Lives: but no ſooner did their mercileſs Enemies gain Admittance, than they butcher'd every one of the Jews, calling aloud for Baptiſm, in hopes of eſcaping their worſe than Paganiſh Cruelty.

Not ſatisfy'd with this, the barbarous Robbers, as well as Murderers, ran next to the Cathedral, where were depoſited the Bonds and other Securities of the Money owing to the Jews by the Chriſtians, broke open the Cheſts, and deſtroyed them all.

There were 500 Men who took Shelter in the Caſtle, beſides Women and Children. So that the whole Number of the Jews thus miſerably ſlaughter'd, muſt be between 1000 and 1500, beſides thoſe who were maſſacred in the City.

We muſt do this Juſtice to the King, who was then in the Holy Land, that as ſoon as he heard of this unparalleled Proceeding, he was highly incenſed, and ſent Orders to the Biſhop of Ely, his Chancel⯑lor and Regent, to go down in Perſon to York, and execute ſtrict Juſtice, without Favour or Affection, on all Offenders. The Biſhop came to the City, but the chief Authors of the Riot had fled to Scot⯑land. However, the Citizens were laid under a large Fine, and the Sheriff and Governor of the Caſtle were removed from their Places, and com⯑mitted [155] to Priſon; and the Soldiers concerned in the Fray were puniſhed, and turned out of Service; but not one Man, either then or afterwards, was executed for the unheard-of Villainy.

The Strength of this Caſtle has been often ex⯑perienced in Times of War, and become famous in Hiſtory, upon Account of ſeveral memorable Events. We hope for the future there will never be occaſion to make any other Uſe of it than to the ſame neceſſary Purpoſe, to which it is now converted, namely, a Priſon; but a Priſon the moſt ſtately and complete of any in the whole Kingdom, if not in Europe. The preſent Edifice was erected in the Year 1701. In the left Wing of the Building is a handſome Chapel, neatly adorned with ſuitable Fur⯑niture, and an Allowance of 40l. a Year is ſettled upon a Miniſter, for performing Divine Service, and Preaching to the Priſoners weekly; and ſuch of the Debtors as attend at Sermons, are allowed each a large Loaf of fine Bread. The Juſtices of the Peace take great Care, that the Gaol ſhall be kept as neat within-ſide, as it is noble without. The Felons are allowed Straw, and their Beds are now raiſed from the Ground: and there is an Infirmary apart from the common Priſon, to which the Sick are con⯑veyed, and a Surgeon has an appointed Salary to attend them.

The Caſtle-yard is larger than the Areas of the Fleet or King's-Bench in London, and the Situation is ſo high, pleaſant, and airy, that 'tis ſurpriſing any Priſoners ſhould remove themſelves by Habeas Corpus, to either of thoſe Priſons, unleſs it be with a View of purchaſing the Liberty of the Rules, be⯑cauſe here they are never permitted to go without the Walls. Strangers, who viſit the Inſide of it, ſel⯑dom depart without making a trifling Purchace of ſome of the ſmall Manufactures the Priſoners work up for Subſiſtence.

[156]The next Building we come to is the Aſſembly-room, for the Entertainment of the Nobility and Gentry, who reſide at York during the Races. It was deſigned by the Earl of Burlington. That Part which is the Egyptian Hall, taken from a Draught of Pal⯑ladio, is in Length 123 Feet, 40 broad, and rather more in Height. This Hall communicates with the common Ball-room, in Length 66 Feet, in Height and Breadth 22 Feet, beſides other Rooms for Cards and Tea: all richly decorated and illuminated with magnificent Luſtres. The Front to the Street is an exceeding fine Piece of Architecture; but the Egyp⯑tian Hall, if you except the Banqueting-houſe at Whitehall, may undoubtedly claim the Preference of any other Room in the Kingdom, if not in Eu⯑rope. The Expence of this Edifice, amounting to ſeveral thouſand Pounds, was defrayed by Subſcrip⯑tions, chiefly among the Nobility and Gentry of the County, who contributed, ſome 50l. and none leſs than 25l.

In the Year 1728, a very handſome Manſion-houſe was erected for the Lord-Mayor; the Baſe⯑ment is a Ruſtick Arcade, which ſupports an Ionick Order, with a Pediment in it. There is a large Room the Length of the Front, 49 Feet by 29, ſo that this City has had the Honour to begin a Prece⯑dent for the City of London to copy after.

The Guild-Hall is a Building very well deſerving Notice, as likewiſe are ſeveral other publick Edifices, which are equally uſeful and ornamental to this an⯑tient City.

But what exceeds all others in it, is the Cathedral Church, which for Magnificence of Structure chal⯑lenges the Pre-eminence of all other Gothick Churches, not only in this Kingdom, but throughout Europe, if I may rely upon the Opinion of a Gentleman, with whom I viewed it, and who had ſeen the Churches at Straſburgh, Milan, and Notre Dame in Paris.

[157]The City of Lincoln indeed contends with this of York, for a Preference to its Cathedral; and as this is a Point in which both Cities are very tena⯑cious, I will diſtinguiſh the Particulars wherein each of them have the Advantage over the other, as I have promiſed in Page 6.

In the firſt Place then, Lincoln Cathedral has greatly the Advantage of York, in the Height of its Situation; and by different Accounts given by ſeveral Authors, of the Dimenſions of both Churches, it appears Lincoln exceeds York in Length, from Eaſt to Weſt, either 14, or 11, or three Feet and a half: in the middle Croſs or Tranſept from North to South, five Feet; in the outward Breadth of the Weſt End, by the Addition of two Chapels, as at St. Paul's, London, 53 Feet; in the Height of the Weſt Towers and Spires 72 Feet; and of the mid⯑dle Tower, including the Pinacles, 75 Feet.

York exceeds Lincoln in the Breadth of its middle Nef, and Side Ayles, within-ſide, 26 Feet; in the Height of the middle Nef to its Canopy, 17 Feet; and in the inſide Height of the middle Lantern, 64 Feet and a half.

The Breadth of the Weſt End of Lincoln will not the leaſt avail in this Diſpute, as it has ſo many egregious Defects, not to ſay Abſurdities. The two Steeples are crouded together, inſtead of being placed at the Extremities of the Front, which by that means would have had an Appearance much more grand. They riſe up above the Body of the Church, as if behind a Screen, without the leaſt Affinity to any Part of the Building below. Their Ornaments are but mean, and the Leaden Spires upon them ſtill meaner. The whole Front, extending in a ſtrait Line, wants Boldneſs when viewed at ſome Diſtance; and there is ſuch an Expanſion of ſolid Wall, without Windows, or any ſort of Aperture, as gives a Hea⯑vineſs throughout. The cloiſtred Work, or Niches [158] for Images, which is the chief ornamental Part of Gothick Structures, is diſpoſed with a ſhameful Diſ⯑regard to every thing like Deſign: in one Place, crouded with needleſs Profuſion; in another, wanted to fill up, where now there is nothing but a naked and dead Space; and in the Ornaments the Fancy is ſo irregularly varied, that all kind of Connexion and Harmony is deſtroyed, ſo that the Building to Ap⯑pearance has the ſame Effect, as if it were Pieces of different Structures patched up together.

The Plan of the Church is very irregular, the middle Tranſept from North to South having no Ayles on the Weſt-ſide, to anſwer thoſe on the Eaſt. The upper Tranſept, or double Croſs, can never be conſidered as a beautiful Addition, eſpecially ſince this, and the Eaſtern Parts beyond, are ſurrounded with Chapels and Veſtries erected without Unifor⯑mity, and the Windows of the Church are meanly ſmall, crouded, and out of Proportion.

'Tis to be obſerved, there is a great Reſemblance between the Ground-plat of Lincoln, and that of Canterbury, and the one was certainly built after the Model of the other.

The only Defect objected to York, is, that the middle Tower or Lantern wants Height, and that the Croſs or Tranſept, from North to South, is built in a different Style and Manner from the reſt of the Cathedral. Both theſe muſt be admitted to be Faults; but, by the way, the middle Lantern is as lofty as the celebrated Towers of Canterbury and Glouceſter, excluſive of their Pinacles, tho' not ſuf⯑ficiently high in proportion to its Breadth, being 70 Feet ſquare, or to the Height of the Church. They have a Tradition in this City, that a Wooden Spire was once intended to have been raiſed upon this Tower; which in that Caſe would have ex⯑ceeded the Height of Saliſbury Steeple, as the pre⯑ſent Battlements are higher by ſix Feet, and of a [159] larger Square than the preſent Tower at Saliſ⯑bury.

I am not ſorry this Project failed, becauſe 'tis ob⯑vious all Wooden Spires have a moſt wretched Aſpect.

The only Amendment that can be made, would be to pull down the Bell-turret at one Corner, and to raiſe the Battlements about 20 Feet, piercing them thro' with proper Ornaments; and carry four Pinacles above them, about 20 Feet more.

However, this Building has two remarkable Beau⯑ties not to be found in any other Gothick Edifice; which are, that the Height and Breadth of the Nef and Side Ayles of the Church, and of all the Arches and Windows come very near, if not agree with, the Dimenſions laid down by the eſtabliſhed Rules of Roman Architecture; that the Span of the Roof; from Eaſt to Weſt, riſes very near equal to the mo⯑dern Proportion; the exceſſive Height of the Roofs being the chief Blemiſhes in moſt Cathedrals, as may be ſeen at Lincoln, Saliſbury, Weſtminſter, and par⯑ticularly Wincheſter.

The Plan of the whole Church is uniform, as well as the Superſtructure, eſpecially from Eaſt to Weſt: the Windows are of a Size and Diſtance proper to the Magnitude of the Structure, and are admirable for their Workmanſhip; neither is it crouded and encumbered on the Outſide by its Butreſſes, but every Part is inrich'd with Ornaments, which receive an additional Beauty from the Colour of the Stone, as it retains almoſt its original Whiteneſs.

Thus far what I have ſaid of this Building in general was neceſſary, in comparing it with Lin⯑coln. I will now take ſome Notice of its ſeveral Parts diſtinctly both within-ſide and without, begin⯑ning firſt at the Outſide.

The Weſt End, which is 124 Feet in Breadth, ſhews a Grandeur inexpreſſible; this Front contains [160] two uniform Towers, diminiſhed by ſeveral Con⯑tractions, all cloiſtred for Imagery, and inrich'd with other Ornaments. In the South Tower hangs a deep Peal of 12 Bells, the Tenor weighing 59 hun⯑dred Weight.

Between theſe Towers, over the principal En⯑trance into the Church, is a large Window, whoſe Tracery in Maſons Work is of a Figure ſo beau⯑tiful, that it cannot be equalled any-where. The ſeveral Windows in the Towers are large, and their Tracery and Ornaments well fanſied.

The South Entrance is aſcended by ſeveral Courſes of Steps, and Tradition aſſures us, there was once as great an Aſcent to the Weſt Door. Here a re⯑markable Spiral Turret is erected on the middle of the Pediment, and called the Fiddlers Turret, from an Image of a Fidler on the Top. Over the Door is a Dial both Horary and Solar, on each Side of which two Images ſtrike the Quarters on two Bells.

In viewing the Building from this Part Eaſtward, we eaſily diſcerned it to be much newer than that Weſtward, tho' conformable to it.

The Eaſt Front is exceeding noble, and has the fineſt Window in the World.

The North Side is the ſame as the South: only a Wall is built to prevent Night-walkers, and other diſorderly Perſons, from neſting and intriguing in the obſcure Corners of the Buttreſſes.

The Lantern Steeple, of which I have ſpoken already, is ornamented in a fine Taſte, wanting nothing but a better Finiſhing at the Top: it has eight Windows, two on each Side, to give Light within; theſe Windows from Top to Bottom are 45 Feet high.

We now entered the Inſide, at the Weſt Door, opening into the middle Nef of the Church, under the largeſt Gothick Arch in Europe, which binds and ſupports the two Towers. The Nef is the moſt [161] ſpacious of any in Europe, except St. Peter's at Rome; it exceeds the Dimenſions of the Nef of St. Paul's Cathedral four Feet ſix Inches in Width, and 11 Feet in Height; and that of Weſtminſter Abbey 16 Feet ſix Inches in Breadth, but its Height is two Feet leſs. This is an Inſtance of what I took No⯑tice of before, with regard to the Juſtneſs of the Proportion of York Cathedral, and at the ſame time ſhews the Extravagance of that of Weſtminſter Abbey, in this Particular. The Canopy at Top is inriched with curious Knots of Carving.

From thence we proceeded under the Middle Lan⯑tern, to a Stone Screen, that parts the Choir from the Body of the Church, adorned with curious Work⯑manſhip, among which are placed the Statues of the Britiſh Kings, from the Conqueſt, to Henry VI.

Over the Entrance into the Choir ſtands the Organ, having a double Front; it had before been removed from thence by King Charles I. to one Side, oppoſite to the Biſhop's Throne. The Reaſon his Majeſty gave for doing it, was, That it ſpoil'd the Proſpect of the fine Eaſt Windows from the Body of the Church.

The Choir is adorned with antient Wood-work carved, and ſet up with Cluſters of knotted Pinacles of different Heights. The Aſcent from the Body of the Church, thro' the Choir to the Altar, is by a Gradation of 16 Steps. The Altar has lately re⯑ceived a conſiderable Improvement as to its Situa⯑tion, and the whole Church in its Beauty, by taking away a large wooden Screen, which almoſt obſtructed the View of the Eaſt Window. By this means it was carried one Arch farther back, to a Stone Screen of excellent Gothick Architecture; which now not only ſhews a Beauty in itſelf, before hid, but opens a View to one of the nobleſt Lights in the World, both for Maſonry and Glazing; which is the afore⯑mentioned Eaſt Window.

[162]This Window is 30 Feet Nine Inches broad, and 75 Feet high: the Upper-part is a Piece of fine Tracery, but, in my Opinion, not ſo beautiful as that at the Weſt End. Below the Tracery are 117 Partitions, wherein are repreſented, in fine painted Glaſs, moſt of the Hiſtory of the Bible. This Window was glazed in 1405, by one John Thornton, Glazier of Coventry; who received, for his own Work, 4s. a Week; and contracted to finiſh the Whole in Three Years.

In a circular Window, at the South End of the Church, is another fine Piece of Maſonry, in the Form of a Wheel, called The Marygold Window, from its painted Glaſs, which reſembles the Colour of that Flower. The North End has Five noble Lights: each conſtitute one large Window, and reach almoſt from Top to Bottom. There is a Tradition, that Five Maiden Siſters were at the Expence of theſe Lights. The Painting of the Glaſs repreſents a kind of Embroidery, or Moſaick Needle-work; which might perhaps give Occaſion to the Story.

I ought not to omit mentioning, that all the Win⯑dows of the Church, except one or two, are adorned with painted Glaſs, repreſenting the Sacred Hiſtory, and the Portraitures of eminent Perſons. This Paint⯑ing was preſerved at the Time of the Civil Wars, by the Lord Fairfax, General of the Parliament's Army, who, at the Requeſt of the Gentry and Citizens of York, placed a Guard of Soldiers about the Church for that Purpoſe.

The Body of the Church has been lately new paved, the Plan of which was drawn by that ingenious Architect Mr. Kent, under the Direction of the Earl of Burlington: the Figure is Moſaick, and properly adapted to a Gothick Building.

The Monuments in this Church are numerous, many of them very antient, and ſeveral very magni⯑ficent; [163] but to enumerate them diſtinctly, would take up more Room than I can ſpare.

After taking this View of the Cathedral, we were conducted into the Chapter-houſe; a Building which, for a Gothick Piece, diſdains to allow an Equal in the Univerſe, and well deſerves the Encomium beſtowed upon it, as is ſaid, by a great Traveller, in an old Monkiſh Verſe inſcribed on the Wall, in Golden Letters, as follows:

'Tis an Octagon of 63 Feet Diameter. The Height to the Middle Knot of the Roof is 67 Feet ten Inches, unſupported by any Pillars, and intirely de⯑pendent upon one Pin geometrically placed in the Centre. The whole Roof has been richly painted, and the Knots of carved Work, gilt; but is now defaced and ſullied by Time. Over the Roof is a Spire of Timber-work, covered with Lead, admired as a maſterly Piece of Work in the Carpenter's Art. The Eight Squares of the Octagon have each a Win⯑dow beautifully adorned, and imbelliſhed with painted Glaſs.

The next Place we ſaw was the Veſtry-room; its Dimenſions 44 Feet by 22: wherein are kept ſeveral Antiquities, particularly the famous Horn ſo called, made of an Elephant's Tooth; which is indeed the greateſt Piece of Antiquity the Church can exhibit, and to which they ought to pay a high Veneration, on Account of the Benefit they reap, from the Act that it witneſſed to. The Account Camden gives of it, is; ‘"That Ulphus the Son of Toraldus, who governed in the Weſt Parts of Deira, by reaſon of a Difference likely to happen betwixt his eldeſt Son and his youngeſt, about his Lord⯑ſhip, when he was dead, preſently took this Courſe: Without Delay he went to York, and taking the Horn, wherein he was wont to drink, [164] with him, he filled it with Wine; and kneeling before the Altar, beſtowed upon God, and the bleſſed St. Peter, all his Lands."’

The Lands are ſtill called de Terra Ulphi. The Horn was imagined to have been quite loſt; but Thomas Lord Fairfax was the Occaſion of its be⯑ing preſerved. Where it had lain, or where he got it, is uncertain; but ſtripp'd of its Golden Orna⯑ments, it was reſtored by his Succeſſor. The Chapter thought fit to decorate it anew, and be⯑ſtowed the following Inſcription, to the Memory of the Reſtorer, upon it: ‘CORNU HOC ULPHUS IN OCCIDENTALI PARTE
DEIRAE PRINCEPS, UNA CUM OMNIBUS TERRIS
ET REDDITIBUS SUIS, OLIM DONAVIT.
AMISSVM, VEL ABREPTVM,
HENRICUS DOM. FAIRFAX DEMVM RESTITVIT.
DEC. ET CAPIT. DE NOVO ORNAVIT,
A. D. M.DC.LXXV.’

I will now conclude my Account of this noble Pile of Building, with the Character given of it (as Mr. Camden informs us) by Aeneas Sylvius, afterwards Pope Pius II. ‘"It is, ſays he, famous for its Mag⯑nificence and Workmanſhip, all the World over, but eſpecially for a fine lightſome Chapel, with ſhining Walls, and ſmall thin waſted Pillars quite round."’

The South Side of the Church is inriched by a Library, to which Archbiſhop Matthews's Widow was a great Benefactreſs. A Biſhop was her Father, and an Archbiſhop her Father-in-law; ſhe had Four Biſhops for her Brethren, and an Archbiſhop for her ſecond Huſband.

The Biſhop had a Palace in the Minſter-yard, where great Hoſpitality was wont to be kept; but it has been long ſince leaſed out. And to ſhew the [165] wondrous Change of Times, one End of it is now converted into a Dancing-ſchool, and the other into a Play-houſe.

In the Archbiſhop's Regiſter and Prerogative Office, is a noble Repoſitory of antient Eccleſiaſtick Records, bearing Date 93 Years earlier than any at Lambeth or Canterbury.

The Church of All-Saints in the Pavement is a beautiful old Church, with a Gothick Steeple of ex⯑quiſite Workmanſhip. Upon the Tower is a fine Lantern (with Pinacles of a conſiderable Height) not much unlike that of Boſton in Lincolnſhire.

St. Margaret's Church has one of the moſt extra⯑ordinary Porches I ever ſaw. It is a moſt ſumptuous and elaborate Piece of Gothick Architecture, with our Saviour on the Croſs on the Top of it: but what ſeems ſtill more ſurpriſing is, that they ſay it did not originally belong to the Church, but was brought hither from the diſſolved Hoſpital of St. Nicolas.

St. Mary's in Caſtle-gate is admired for a pyra⯑midical Steeple; as Chriſt's Church is for a very fine modern one.

In the Month of Auguſt 1738, a Subſcription was ſet on Foot for an Infirmary in this City, like thoſe begun at London, Wincheſter, &c. which we have mentioned. And this excellent Charity has found much Encouragement and Support here.

A Manufacture of Cotton is lately eſtabliſhed in this City, and is arrived at a very great Perfection; and I could not but be greatly pleaſed, when I was there laſt, to ſee a very handſome Proceſſion made on this Occaſion, viz. on May-day 1740, at which Time Mr. Clough, the Maſter of the Manufactory, together with the ſeveral Artificers concern'd therein, marched thro' the City in the following manner, preceded by the City Muſick; viz. There were Three Stages borne, each by Six Porters: On the firſt Stage were the Teazer, Carder, Rover, Spinner, [166] and Reeler of the Cotton-wool. On the ſecond, the Bleecher and Winder of the Linen-yarn. On the third, the Quill-winder and Weaver. Each Perſon exerciſing their ſeveral Branches, from the picking of the Wool to the finiſhing the Cloth. The Men, Women and Children, imploy'd in the Manufactory, cloſed the Proceſſion, all of them cloathed with Cot⯑tons, or ſtriped and figured Fuſtians of their own making, provided for them by the generous Contri⯑butions of the Citizens.

This Manufactory being ſo well fix'd and eſtabliſh'd in ſo ſhort a time, is principally owing to the great Encouragement given by the City, who are determin'd to ſpare no Pains or Expences to ſupport it. The Bells in the Cathedral, and in all the Pariſh Churches, rung the whole Time of the Proceſſion.

The City of York ſtands upon more Ground, per⯑haps, than any in England, except London and Nor⯑wich; but then the Buildings are not ſo cloſe as at Briſtol or Durham, nor is it ſo populous as either Briſtol or Norwich. But as York is full of Gentry, and Perſons of Diſtinction, ſo they have Houſes pro⯑portioned to their Quality, which makes the City lie ſo far extended on both Sides of the River.

While we were here, we took one Day's Time to ſee the fatal Field, called Marſton Moor, where Prince Rupert, a third time, by his Exceſs of Va⯑lour, and Defect of Conduct, loſt the Royal Army, and had a Victory wrung out of his Hands, after he had all the Advantage he could deſire.

I made another Excurſion to the Duke of Leeds's Houſe at Kiveton, then to the Earl of Carliſle's called Caſtle Howard, and the Earl of Burlington's at Laneſborough in the Eaſt-riding.

Carliſle-houſe, or Caſtle Howard, is in the Middle of a Wood, which is as great a Wonder in its Kind▪ as Mr. Aiſlabie's Park. The Houſe is of a vaſt Extent▪ and tho' it makes a fine Appearance at a Diſtance▪ [167] yet will it not bear a critical Examination of the Architecture, when viewed near. There goes a Story, That the Architect was ſo ſenſible of his Errors in one of the Fronts, that he would fain have perſuaded the late Earl of Carliſle to pull it down again. The Whole is not yet finiſhed.

The Earl of Burlington's in an old-built Houſe, moſt advantageouſly ſituated on a riſing Ground, with a noble Proſpect as well towards the Humber, as towards the Woulds.

I paſſed likewiſe thro' the Foreſt of Galtres, a little North of the City. It is in ſome Places very thick of Trees, and in others very mooriſh and boggy: it formerly extended to the very Gates of the City, but now 'tis much leſſen'd; and ſeveral con⯑ſiderable Villages are built in it.

Having mentioned ſo many Foreſts, you'll un⯑doubtedly conclude, there is no want of Firing in this County. 'Tis very true; for here is not only Wood enough, but Coal too; which is a very great Com⯑fort to the Poor, againſt the Inclemency of this cold Northern Climate, which indeed has very great need of Firing.

At Hambleton-down are the Races, where the King's Plate of an hundred Guineas is run for once a Year, by Five-Year-Olds; a Gift no-where better be⯑ſtowed than on that County, which is ſo famous for breeding of Horſes for the reſt of the Kingdom.

From York we enter'd again into the Weſt-riding, and, travelling due Weſt, we came to Wetherby, upon the River Aire, which we omitted to take in our Courſe as we paſſed by this River in our former Journey, being then more out of our Way than here. It is a good Trading Town, but has nothing remarkable in it.

Some Miles farther to the South ſtands Tadcaſter, upon the South Side of the River Wherfe, where the Road from Cheſter, and that from Cambridge to York, [168] meet; and is conſequently well provided for the Reception of Travellers. It is principally noted for Lime-ſtones, and a fine Stone Bridge over the River. But it has nothing that we could ſee to teſtify the Antiquity it boaſts of, but ſome old Roman Coins, which our Landlord the Poſt-maſter ſhewed us, among which was one of Domitian, of the ſame Kind, I believe, as that which Mr. Camden gives an Account of; but ſo very much defaced with Age, that we could read but DO, and AV, at a Diſtance. Here is the Hoſpital and School ſtill remaining, founded by Dr. Oglethorp, Biſhop of Carliſle, who, for want of a Proteſtant Archbiſhop, ſet the Crown on the Head of Queen Elizabeth; but ſhe afterwards, not⯑withſtanding that Circumſtance, deprived him.

Here alſo we ſaw plainly the Roman Cauſway, which I have before-mentioned at Aberforth; and a ſtately Stone Bridge over the Wherfe.

Mr. Camden gives us a Diſtich of a learned Paſ⯑ſenger upon this River, and the old Bridge at Tad⯑caſter. I ſuppoſe he paſſed it in a dry Summer.

In Engliſh thus:

But I can aſſure you to the contrary of this; for tho', when I travelled this Way, it was about the Middle of June, I found the River pretty full.

On this Road we paſſed over Towton, that famous Field, where a moſt cruel and bloody Battle was fought between the Two Houſes of Lancaſter and York, in the Reign of Edward IV. I call it moſt cruel and bloody, becauſe the Animoſity of the Par⯑ties was ſo great, that tho' they were Countrymen and Neighbours, nay, as Hiſtory ſays, Relations [169] (for here Fathers killed their Sons, and Sons their Fathers) for ſome time they fought with ſuch Obſti⯑nacy and Rancour, that they gave no Quarter. 'Tis certain ſuch Numbers were never ſlain in one Battle in England, ſince that fought between King Harold and William the Conqueror, at Battle in Suſſex; for here fell in the Whole 36000 Men, and the Yorkiſts proved victorious.

Tradition guided us to the very Spot; but there remain no viſible Marks of the Action. The Plough⯑men indeed ſay, that ſometimes they turn up Arrow-heads, Spear-heads, broken Javelins, Helmets, and the like.

Farther South ſtill, or rather South-eaſt, on the Road to Doncaſter, ſtands Shirbourn, a pretty good Town, famous for a well endow'd Hoſpital, erected by one Hungate a Proteſtant, for the Maintenance at Bed, Board and Cloathing, &c. of Children from Seven till Fifteen Years old; when, according to their Genius and Capacity, ſome are ſent to the Univer⯑ſity, or apprenticed out to Trades; for which there is a Proviſion, which, including the Maintenance of the Hoſpital, amounts to 250l. a Year. A noble and well choſen Piece of Charity.

We turned Eaſt to Selby, ſituate on the South Side of the Ouſe, a ſmall Market-town, but very well inhabited, and is famous for giving Birth to our Henry I. The Conqueror built an Abbey here,

We then fell down directly South, and came to Snath upon the Aire; which is but an inconſiderable Town; but, like Selby, has a pretty good Trade. I ſhould have mention'd, that there are ſeveral Mer⯑chants that live at Selby; and that the Ouſe is navi⯑gable up to the Town for large Veſſels, and has a good Share of Trade that Way.

We fell down ſtill lower South, to Thorn on the River Dun, an indifferent Town, of no other Not [...] than its Situation within the Marſhes; which is [170] called Marſh-land Iſland; for it is incompaſſed by the Dun, the Aire, the Ouſe, and another little River, which parts it from the Iſle of Axholm, on the Edge of Lincolnſhire, already ſpoken of; ſo that theſe Two River Iſlands are contiguous.

Being now come to the Banks of the Ouſe, near the Influx of the Trent into the Humber, I ſhall, after re⯑minding you, that I have now accompliſhed another Part of the Propoſition in my laſt Letter, croſs over the Ouſe to Howdon.

Howdon lies on the Ouſe North, in the Eaſt⯑riding of Yorkſhire. It is a pretty large Town, and is ſubject to great Inundations from the River, occa⯑ſioned by the Freſhes which come down from the Woulds; and has been ſo, it ſeems, ever ſince 1390; when a Biſhop of Durham built a very tall Steeple to the Church, that in caſe of a ſudden Inundation, the People might ſave themſelves in it. And there have been, within theſe few Years, ſeveral Commiſſions for Repairing the Banks.

The Fair, or Mart, held here for Eight Days to⯑gether, is very conſiderable for Inland Trade, and ſeveral Wholeſale Tradeſmen come to it from London. But the Town is more famous for the Birth or Reſi⯑dence of one of our antient Hiſtorians, Roger of Hoveden, or Howdon, a Monk of this Abbey. Mr. Camden's Continuator is miſtaken, in ſaying this Town ſtands upon the Derwent; for it is above Three Miles South-eaſt of it; tho' the Der⯑went was made navigable, purſuant to Act of Par⯑liament, 1 Annae, to the Ouſe.

The Biſhop of Durham has a Temporal Juriſdiction in this Part of the Country, which is called How⯑donſhire.

I found nothing in this low Part of the Country but a wonderful Conflux of great Rivers, all pour⯑ing down into the Humber, which receiving the Aire, [171] the Ouſe, the Dun, and the Trent, becomes rather a Sea than a River.

I obſerved, that the Middle of this Diviſion of Yorkſhire is very thin of Towns and People, being overſpread with Woulds, which are Plains and Downs, like thoſe of Saliſbury, which feed great Numbers of Sheep, Black Cattle, and Horſes, and produce Corn. The Northern Part, eſpecially, is more mountainous, which makes Part of the North-riding. But the Eaſt and Weſt Parts are populous and rich, and full of Towns, the one lying on the Sea Coaſt, and the other upon the River Derwent, as above. The Sea Coaſt, or South-eaſt Side, is called Holderneſs.

From hence we travelled North-eaſt up to Wighton, being but a very little out of the Way to Beverley. It is a ſmall, but antient Market-town, ſeated on the Banks of a little River called Foulneſs. Here are ſome Roman as well as Britiſh Antiquities. 'Tis ſuppoſed to be the Delgovitia Station of the Romans, from the Britiſh Word Ddelw or Delgive, ſignifying Image. Some have conjectured, that here has been a Temple of the Druids, and that their Groves were in the Wood of Dierwald, which they interpret as derived from the Britiſh Word Derwen, an Oak.

On the North-weſt of Wighton towards the Der⯑went, ſtands the Market-town of Pocklington, which we were told was ſo inconſiderable, that it would not be worth our while to go ſo much out of our Way to ſee it. So keeping on Eaſt under the Woulds, we arrived at Beverley, which is ſituate juſt at the Foot of them, about a Mile from the River Hull. It is a large populous corporate Town, under the Govern⯑ment of a Mayor, Aldermen, &c. It takes its Name from the great Number of Beavers, with which that River abounded. It had formerly a conſiderable Trade, by means of a Creek, or Cut, commonly called Be⯑verley-beck, of old made from the Town to the River Hull, which runs into the Humber, for the Paſſage of [172] Ships and Boats, Keels, Wherries, Hoys, &c. to and from the ſaid Town; and as it had likewiſe divers Staiths or Landing-places adjoining to the ſaid Beech, for the Lading and Unlading of all ſorts of Merchan⯑dize, the Town was wont to receive no ſmall Ad⯑vantage from this Cut or River. But there being no ſettled Fund for keeping it open, and cleanſing it, and the Expence of doing it being beyond the Ability of the Corporation, the ſaid Beck was, in time, choaked up, and the Staiths grew out of Repair; whence an Act paſſed, Anno 1727, for Cleanſing, Deepening and Widening the Creek, and for Repair⯑ing the Staiths, and for Mending the Roads leading from the ſaid Cut to the Town; and at the ſame time providing for the Cleanſing of the Town itſelf: all which has had a very good Effect; for before, the Creek lying in the lower Part of the Town, th [...] Filth, Dirt, and Soil of the Town was waſhed int [...] it, which very much contributed to choak it up.

Beverley is the chief Town of the Eaſt-riding, and began to be of great Note from the Time that John of Beverly, Archbiſhop of York, the firſt Doctor of Divinity in Oxford, and Preceptor to Venerable Bede, built a Monaſtery here, and afterwards retired into it himſelf, where he died A. D. 721. King Athelſtan, having made a Vow at the Altar of St. John, before he proceeded againſt the Scots, in his Return, A. D. [...]30. inſtituted a new College of Secular Canons, and granted to the Town many Immunities; parti⯑cularly, to the Freemen of it, an Exemption from all manner of Tolls, which was afterwards con⯑firmed by King Henry I. and by all or moſt of the Kings and Queens of this Realm to this Time, as the Mayor's Certificate expreſſes it; which he gives to ſuch Freemen as apply for it, in the Form fol⯑lowing:

By theſe, and the like Privileges, the Town keeps up its flouriſhing Condition, notwithſtanding it is within Six Miles of ſo powerful a Rival as Hull. [174] It has all the Advantage, indeed, of a good Situation, to invite Gentlemen to reſide in it; and being the neareſt Town of Note to the Centre of this Riding, the Seſſions are always held here, in a ſpacious and beautiful Hall, which has a publick Garden and Walks, not inferior to any of their kind in England. In this Hall-garth, as it is called, is a handſome Regiſter-office for Deeds and Wills within this Diviſion; which is the only County in England, beſides Middleſex, which has ſuch a Regiſtry; to the great Reproach of the Nation be it ſaid, eſpecially when it ſhall be remembered, that no leſs than two Bills (one for a Regiſtry for the County of Surrey, and another, after that, for a General Regiſtry over the whole Kingdom) were reſpectively oppoſed, and miſcarried very lately in Parliament.

Here are Two weekly Markets; one on Wedneſ⯑days, for Cattle; the other on Saturdays, for Corn. The Market-place is as large as moſt, having a beautiful Croſs, ſupported by Eight Free-ſtone Co⯑lumns, of one intire Stone each, erected at the Charge of Sir Charles Hotham, and Sir Michael Wharton; upon which was this Inſcription: ‘HAEC SEDES LAPIDEA FREED-STOOLE DICI⯑TUR, i. e. PACIS CATHEDRA, AD QUAM REVS FVGIENDO PERVENIENS OMNIMODAM HABET SECVRITATEM.’ That is: ‘This Stone Seat is called Freed-Stoole, or Chair of Peace; to which, if any Criminal flee, he ſhall have full Protection.’

The Common Gaol has been lately re-edified at a conſiderable Expence, the Windows well ſaſhed; and, as if Works of Piety were more peculiarly adapted to this Place, there are Seven Alms-houſes in the Town, and Legacies left for Two more; [175] beſides a Work-houſe, which has coſt 700l. It has a Free-ſchool, to the Scholars of which are appro⯑priated Two Fellowſhips at St. John's College in Cambridge, and Nine Exhibitions.

Here were formerly Four Churches, now only Two, but the largeſt and fineſt Parochial ones in the Kingdom: viz. the late Collegiate Church of St. John the Evangeliſt, ſtill called the Minſter, and St. Mary's. The Minſter being very ruinous, a Brief was procured for the Repair of it in the Year 1710; the Produce of which, and the Subſcription Money, being placed in the publick Funds, was farther augmented by the Riſe of South-Sea Stock, which enabled the prudent Managers to complete their pious Deſign in the moſt beautiful manner, aſſiſted by the Advice of that noted Architect Nicolas Hawkſmore, Eſq King George I. encouraged this Work not only by a liberal Donation of Money, but of Stone likewiſe from the diſſolved Monaſtery of St. Mary's in York. Sir Michael Wharton gave in his Life-time 500l. and by Will 4000l. as a per⯑petual Fund towards keeping it in Repair.

The Choir is paved with Marble of Four different Colours, Lozenge-wiſe, appearing cubical to the Eye. Over the Altar is a large and magnificent wooden Arch curiouſly engraven, ſtanding upon Eight fluted Columns of the Corinthian Order. The Altar-table is one intire Stone of white Marble, finely poliſhed; the Gift of Mr. Moyſer. The Eaſt Window is of painted Glaſs, collected out of the ſeveral Windows about the Church; but ſo artfully joined, that they make throughout one regular and intire Figure. The Screen between the Choir and the Nef has been lately rebuilt of Roch-abbey Stone in the Gothick Style, and is deſervedly eſteemed one of the chief Ornaments of the Church. The Body of the Church is paved with the ſaid Stone intermixed with black Marble. The Pulpit, [176] Reading-deſk, and Cover of the Font, are all new, and of excellent Workmanſhip: the Galleries alſo are new, and beautifully finiſhed, ſupported by Co⯑lumns of the Dorick Order. But not the leaſt ſur⯑priſing Thing in this Pile, is the North End Wall of the great croſs Ayle, which hung over Three Feet and a half, but was ſcrewed up to its proper Level by the ingenious Contrivance of Mr. Thornton of York, who prepared an admirable Machine for the Purpoſe.

On the 13th of September, Anno 1664, upon opening a Grave, they met with a Vault of ſquare Free Stone 15 Feet long, and Two Feet broad: within it was a Sheet of Lead Four Feet long, and in that the Aſhes, and Six Beads, (whereof Three crumbled to Duſt with a Touch; of the Three re⯑maining, Two were ſuppoſed to be Cornelian) with Three great Braſs Pins, and Four large Iron Nails. Upon the Sheet lay a leaden Plate, with this Inſcri⯑ption, in Capital Letters: ‘Anno ab Incarnatione Domini MCLXXXVIII. com⯑ [...] fuit haec Eccleſia in menſe Septembri, in ſequenti [...] poſt feſtum ſancti Matthaei apoſtoli. Et in Anno MCXCVII. ſexto idus Martii, facta fuit inquiſitio retiquiarum beati Joannis in hoc loco; et inventa ſunt haec oſſa in orientali parte ſepulchri, et hic recon⯑dita, et pulvis cemento mixtus ibidem inventus eſt et reconditus.’ Thus Engliſh'd: ‘In the Year of the Lord's Incarnation 1188, in September, the Night after the Feſtival of St. Matthew the Apoſtle, this Church was conſumed by Fire: and in the Year 1197, on the 10th of March, Search was made for the Reliques of St. John in this Place; and theſe Bones were found in the Eaſtern Part of the [177] Sepulchre, and here depoſited; and a Mixture of Duſt and Mortar was found in the ſame Place, and depoſited.’

Over this lay a Box of Lead about Seven Inches long, Six broad. and Five deep, wherein were ſeveral Pieces of Bones mixed with a little Duſt, and yield⯑ing a ſweet Smell. All theſe Things were carefully re-interred in the Middle Ayle of the Body of the Minſter, with this Inſcription added, in Capital Letters: ‘Reliquiae eaedem effoſſae, et ibidem compoſitae, fornice lateritio dignabantur XXVI. die menſis Martii, Anno Domini MDCCXXVI; quando v. teſſelatum eccleſiae hujus pavimentum primo fuit inſtauratum.’ Thus Engliſh'd: ‘The ſame Reliques which were dug up, and re⯑placed, were adorned with an Arch of Brick-work, on the 26th Day of March 1726; when the Fifth teſſelated Pavement of this Church was firſt repaired.’

Over it, directly upon the Roof, is an Inſcription, to ſhew where the Reliques are interr'd.

In this Church are ſeveral Monuments of the Piercies, Earls of Northumberland, who have added a little Chapel to the Choir. On the Right Side of the Altar-place ſtands the Freed-ſtool, mentioned above, made of one intire Stone, and ſaid to have been removed from Dunbar in Scotland, with a Well of Water behind it. At the upper End of the Body of the Church, next the Choir, hangs an an⯑tient Table with the Picture of St. John the Evan⯑geliſt, (from whom the Church is named) and of King Athelſtan, the Founder of it, and between them this Diſtich:

In the Body of the Church ſtands an antient Monu⯑ment, which they call the Virgins Tomb; becauſe Two Virgin Siſters lay buried there, who gave the Town a Piece of Land, into which any Freeman may put Three Milch Kine from Lady-day to Michaelmas. At the lower End of the Body of the Church, ſtands a fair large Font of Agat Stone.

The principal Trade of the Town is making Malt, Oat-meal, and tann'd Leather; but the poor People moſtly ſupport themſelves by working Bone-lace, which of late has met with particular Encourage⯑ment, the Children being maintained at School to learn to read, and to work this Sort of Lace. The Clothing-trade was formerly followed in this Town; but Leland tells us, that even in his Time it was very much decayed.

They have ſeveral Fairs, but one more eſpecially remarkable, called the Mart, beginning about Nine Days before Aſcenſion-day, and kept in a Street lead⯑ing to the Minſter Garth, called Londoners-ſtreet; for the Londoners bring down their Wares, and furniſh the Country Tradeſmen by Wholeſale.

About a Mile from Beverly to the Eaſt, in a Paſture belonging to the Town, is a kind of Spaw, tho' they ſay it cannot be judged by the Taſte, whe⯑ther it comes from any Mineral, or not; yet taken inwardly, it is a great Drier, and bathed in, dries ſcorbutick Scurf, and all Sorts of Scabs, and alſo very much helps againſt the King's Evil.

From Beverley I came to Hull (properly called Kingſton upon Hull) Diſtance Six Miles. If you would have an Idea of Hamburgh, Dantzick, Rot⯑terdam, or any of the ſecond Cities abroad, which are famed for their Commerce, you may viſit this Town. It is not indeed ſo large as thoſe; but, in [179] proportion to the Dimenſions of it, I believe more Buſineſs is done in Hull, than in any Town in Eu⯑rope. Liverpoole of late comes very near it; but it has not the Advantage of a London Trade, which Hull has.

In the laſt War, the Fleets from Hull to London were frequently 100 Sail; ſometimes, including the other Creeks in the Humber, 160 Sail at a time; and to Holland their Trade was ſo conſiderable, that the Dutch always imployed Two Men of War to convoy the Merchant-men to and from Hull, and thoſe were as many as they ſent to London.

In a word, all the Trade at Leeds, Wakefield, and Halifax, of which I have ſpoken ſo particularly, is negotiated here. All the Lead Trade of Derbyſhire and Nottinghamſhire, from Bautry Wharf; the Butter of the Eaſt and North-riding brought down the Ouſe to York; the Cheeſe down the Trent from Stafford, Warwick, and Cheſhire; and the Corn, from all the Counties adjacent, are ſhipped off here.

So again, they ſupply all theſe Countries with foreign Goods, for which they trade to all Parts of the known World; nor have the Merchants of any Port in Britain greater Credit, or a fairer Character, than the Merchants of Hull, as well for the Juſtice of their Dealings, as the Greatneſs of their Subſtance. From Norway, and the Baltick, Dantzick, Riga, Narva, and Peterſburg, they make large Returns in Iron, Copper, Hemp, Flax, Canvas, Muſcovy Linen and Yarn, and other Things; all which they get Vend for in the Country in prodigious Quantities. They have alſo a great Importation of Wine, Linen, Oil, Fruit, &c. from Holland, France, and Spain. The Trade of Tobacco and Sugars from the Weſt-Indies, they chiefly manage by the Way of London. But beſides all this, their Export of Corn, as well to London as to Holland and France, exceeds all of the [180] Kind that is or can be at any Port in England, London excepted.

Their Shipping is a great Article, in which they exceed all the Towns and Ports on that Coaſt, except Yarmouth, ſaving that their Shipping conſiſts chiefly in ſmaller Veſſels than the Coal-trade is ſupplied with, tho' they have a great many large Veſſels too, which are imployed in their foreign Trade.

The Town is ſituated at the Mouth of the River Hull, where it falls into the Humber, and where the Humber opens into the German Ocean; ſo that one Side of the Town lies upon the Sea, the other upon the Land. This makes the Situation naturally very ſtrong; and, were there occaſion, it is capable of being made impregnable, by reaſon of the low Grounds round it.

The Advantages of this Situation ſtruck King Edward I. as he was riding a hunting, after his Return from the Defeat of the Scots in the Year 1296. Upon which he immediately granted ſeveral Privi⯑leges and Immunities to thoſe who would build and ſettle here, erected a Manor-hall himſelf, and fitted up an Harbour, from whence it received the Name of Kings-town. It held out againſt King Charles I. who went in Perſon to demand it, when Sir John Hotham told his Majeſty, ‘"He kept it for the Par⯑liament againſt him."’ Yet both the Hothams. viz. Father and Son, loſt their Heads by that very Parliament.

King Charles II. on occaſion of the frequent Dutch Wars in his Reign, had once reſolved to ap⯑point a Station for a Squadron of Men of War here, with a Yard and Dock for building Ships; and on this Occaſion, reſolved to make the Place ſtrong in pro⯑portion to what thoſe Affairs required: upon which a large Citadel was marked out on the other Side of the River; but it was never finiſhed.

[181]The Town is exceeding cloſe built, and populous, even to an Inconvenience, having really no room to extend itſelf by Buildings. There are but Two Churches, Trinity and St. Mary's; the former is very large, in which is a fine Altar-piece by Par⯑mentier; the latter is thought to have been once larger than it is. King Henry VIII. uſed it as his Chapel Royal, and with the ſame Freedom; for this Defender of the Faith, and Protector of the Church, pulled down the Steeple, becauſe it ſtood oppoſite to the Place where he reſided. The Inhabitants after⯑wards built it up again at their own Expence.

They ſhew us ſtill, in their Town-hall, the Figure of a Northern Fiſherman, ſuppoſed to be of Green⯑land. He was taken up at Sea in a Leathern Boat, which he ſat in, and was covered with Skins, which drew together about his Waiſt, ſo that the Boat could not take in Water, and he could not ſink. The Creature would neither feed, nor ſpeak, and ſo died.

They have a very handſome Exchange here, where the Merchants from foreign Countries, and others from the different Parts of the Kingdom, meet, as at London. The Buſineſs ariſing from the Navigation of all the great Rivers which fall into the Humber, is tranſacted here. There is alſo a fine Free-ſchool founded by John Alcock, Biſhop of Worceſter, after⯑wards of Ely, who was born at Beverley, but choſe to extend his Liberality to this Place. Over the School is the Merchant's Hall.

But the Trinity Houſe here is the Glory of the Town. It is a Corporation of itſelf, compoſed of a Society of Merchants. It was begun by voluntary Contribution for Relief of diſtreſſed and aged Sea⯑men, and their Wives or Widows; but was after⯑wards improved by the Government, and incorpo⯑rated. They have a very good Revenue, which in⯑creaſes every Day by Charities.

[182]They maintain 30 Siſters now actually in the Houſe, Widows of Seamen. They have a Govern⯑ment by 12 Elder Brethern and Six Aſſiſtants. Out of the 12 they chuſe annually Two Wardens, (but the whole 18 vote in electing them) and Two Stewards. Theſe have a Power to decide Diſputes between Maſters of Ships and their Crews, in Matters relating to Sea Affairs; and with this Limitation, that their Judgment be not contrary to the Laws of the Land; but ſo great Deference is paid to it, that in Trials at Law in ſuch Affairs, they are often called to give their Opinions.

Here is a noble Stone Bridge over the River Hull, conſiſting of 14 Arches. A Greenland Fiſhery, ſet up in this Town, went on with Succeſs for a while, but it decayed in the Time of the Dutch Wars; and the Houſe built by the Greenland Mer⯑chants is now turned into Granaries for Corn, and Warehouſes for other Goods.

The old Hoſpital, call'd GOD'S HOUSE, ſtands near it, with a Chapel; both which were pulled down in the Civil Wars 1643, but were rebuilt in 1673; and the Arms of the de la Poles, being found among the Ruins, were placed over the Door of the Hoſpital, with this Inſcription: ‘DEO ET PAVPERIBVS POSVIT
MICHAEL DE LA POLE, 1384.’

This Michael was the Son of William de la Pole, ſometime a Merchant at Ravenſpurn, formerly a flouriſhing Town of Trade at the Mouth of the Humber; but being removed to this new Town of Kingſton, in the Time of Edward III. gave that King a magnificent Entertainment, when, in the Sixth Year of his Reign, he came to take a View of the Place; upon which our Merchant was knighted. The King afterwards, going into Flanders againſt the French, met Sir William at Antwerp, where he ſup⯑plied [183] him with ſeveral Thouſands of Pounds, and even mortgaged his Eſtate for his Royal Maſter's Uſe. Such Services could not go unrewarded from ſo generous, and ſo ſucceſsful a Prince. He made him Knight Banneret in the Field, ſettled on him and his Heirs Lands at Kingſton to the Value of 500 Marks a Year, and upon his Return into England increaſed them to 1000, and advanced him in Time to be Chief Baron of the Exchequer.

Sir William died about 1356, after he had begun a Monaſtery here for the Carthuſians. His Son, Sir Michael, who, 6 Richard II. was made Lord Chan⯑cellor, not only finiſhed it, but founded likewiſe the Hoſpital called GOD'S HOUSE, above-mentioned. He built moreover a ſtately Palace, called the Duke of Suffolk's, which Honour he obtained in Right of his Wife Elizabeth, eldeſt Daughter of Sir John Wingfield, who married the Heireſs of Gilbert Gran⯑ville, Earl of Suffolk. But the Happineſs of him, and his Family, being now arrived to the Height, ſet in Misfortunes; for in the Year 1388, he was impeached of High Treaſon, and fled for his Life into France, where he died. William de la Pole was Prime Miniſter to King Henry VI. and ſuſpected to be too familiar with his heroick Queen. He was impeached by the Commons, Anno 1450, and ba⯑niſhed; but his Head was ſtruck off by the Manage⯑ment of his Enemies, as ſoon as he ſet his Foot on the French Shore.

John de la Pole married the Siſter of King Ed⯑ward IV. and ſo became allied to Royal Blood, and, by that means, expoſed to various Misfortunes; and the famous Cardinal Polé, who flouriſhed in the Reign of Queen Mary I. deſcended from that Marriage.

Here are a great many other Hoſpitals beſides, and likewiſe a Work-houſe, and a good Free-ſchool.

[184]Tho' this Town, and a ſmall adjacent Territory, be generally reckoned in Yorkſhire, yet 'tis really a diſtinct Liberty and County of itſelf, governed by a Mayor, a Sheriff, 12 Aldermen, &c. The Cor⯑poration has Two Swords, one a Preſent from King Richard II. and the other from King Henry VIII. one of which is, on publick Occaſions, carried before the Mayor, and a Cap of Maintenance, and Oar of Lignum-vitae, as Enſigns of Honour, the laſt being alſo a Badge of his Admiralty within the Limits of the Humber.

Farther Eaſt from Hull is a little pleaſant Corpo⯑rate and Mayor-town, called Heydon; 'tis handſome, well-built, and hath a little Haven from the Sea, which increaſes daily.

The Sea incroaches much upon the Land on all the Shore about this Town; and 'tis ſaid, that many large Fields, as well as Towns, which have been formerly known to have been there, have been waſh'd away and loſt.

Hiſtory tells us, that a Town called Ravenſburgh ſtood ſomewhere this way; and 'tis memorable for Baliol King of Scotland having ſet out thence to recover his Kingdom againſt Bruce; and alſo for the Landing of Henry IV. when Duke of Hereford, and the Reception he met with there from the Eng⯑liſh Nobility, againſt Richard II. and yet there are no Veſtigia or Traces of this Town to be now met with.

The Spurn Head, a long Promontory thruſting out into the Sea, and making the North Point of Humber, is very remarkable. But I leave that till I come to the Deſcription of the Sea Coaſts. I can only obſerve, that there is nothing worth Obſerva⯑tion upon this Side for above 30 Miles together, not a Port, not a Gentleman's Seat, not a Town of any Note, except Patrington, which is a very antient corporate Town, and very pleaſantly ſeated within [185] the Promontory, and had likewiſe formerly a good Harbour: on one Side it looks into the Humber, and on the other over ſweet delicious green Fields, which renders its Situation very agreeable. It is ſuppoſed to be the Praetorium of Ptolemy. The Roman Way from the Picts Wall ends here, as indeed it can hardly go further, unleſs it ſhould extend to Keln⯑ſey, a little Village ſtanding at the Head of the Pro⯑montory.

Spurnhead is likewiſe ſuppoſed to be the Occellum of Ptolemy, deriv'd from the Britiſh Word Y [...]hell, which ſignifies a high Place on the Eaſt-ſide of this Promontory, on the German Sea. The Villages lie very thick, but I met with nothing of Note till we came up to Hornſey, which is almoſt ſurrounded with a little Arm of the Sea. The Steeple here is a notable Sea-mark, but is much fallen into Ruin. Here was a whole Street waſh'd away by the Sea, as, 'tis ſaid, a Village called Hide was, a little to the North, as well as many other Villages on this Coaſt.

North-weſt of Hornſey, ſome Diſtance from the Sea, ſtands Kilham, a Market-town in the Woulds, but of no Note.

We next come to Burlington, or Birdlington, a good large Market-town, ſituate on a Creek of the Sea. It is a Place of good Trade, and has a ſafe Harbour for Ships, and a good Quay to load and unload them. It is much frequented by the Colliers. The Harbour is made ſtill better, and yet improving, by virtue of ſeveral Acts of Parliament paſſed for Repair of its Piers, the laſt of which, inforcing the former, and ſupplying Defects, was in 1723. Here William of Newborough, (a Village juſt by) one of our Hiſtorians, was a Canon Regular, and reſided, when he fell ſo violently upon Geoffrey of Mon⯑mouth's Hiſtory, and treated him very abuſively, which Leland blames him very much for, as irre⯑verent and uncharitable to a Biſhop after his Death. [186] It ſeems there was a perſonal Enmity between Wil⯑liam and ſome of Geoffrey's Family; tho' the laſt is in no wiſe to be juſtified in ſome of his fictitious Aſſertions, no more than the other is for abſolutely denying there was ſuch a Man as King Arthur, and that the Ground at Battle Abbey, where Harold was ſlain in fighting againſt the Conqueror, always ſweats Blood after Rain.

The Country People told us a Story here of Gipſies, which viſit them often in a ſurpriſing Man⯑ner. We were ſtrangely amuſed with their Diſ⯑courſe at firſt, forming our Ideas from the Word, which, in ordinary Signification with us, denotes a Sort of ſtr [...]lling Vagabonds. But we were ſoon made to underſtand, that the People meant by them cer⯑tain Streams of Water, which at different Seaſons (for none knows when they will happen) guſh out of the Earth with great Violence and Noiſe, ſpout⯑ing up to a great Height, being natural Jette d' Eaux, or Fountains, which afterwards joining together, form little Rivers, and ſo haſten to the Sea. I had not time to examine into the Particulars; and as the Irruption was not juſt then to be ſeen, we could ſay little to it. That which was moſt obſervable to us, was, that the Country People have a Notion, that whenever thoſe Gipſies, or, as ſome call them, Vipſies, break out, there will certainly enſue either Famine or Plague. This puts me in mind, that the very ſame thing is ſaid to happen at Swintham Bot⯑tom in Surrey, beyond Croydon, and that the Water guſhing out of the chalky Hills about eight Miles from Croydon, on the Road to Ryegate, fills the whole Bottom, and makes a large River, running juſt to the Town's End of Croydon; and then turning to the Left, runs into the River, which riſes in the Town, and ſo to Caſhalton. I mention it, becauſe the Country People here have exactly the ſame Notion, that this Water never breaks out but againſt a Fa⯑mine; [187] and as I am ſure it has not now broken out for more than 60 Years, it may, for aught I know, be true.

Near Burlington ſtands Flamborough-head, a little Promontory, which bends a little into the Sea, and forms the Bay of Burlington. It takes its Name from Flam, a Britiſh Word for a Fire-light; and not far from this Promontory is a very large Ditch, which ſome of the antient Earls of Holderneſs threw up as a Boundary to their Juriſdiction and Eſtate. It is call'd Earls Dyke.

Humanby ſtands next, but is ſo inconſiderable, that it has loſt the Privilege of its Market, if it ever had any.

At Lebberſton, a little Village, a ſmall Way from the Sea, the famous River Derwent takes its Riſe, and makes its Way Weſt, inſtead of running into the Sea here. And here I take Leave of the Eaſt-riding, which is in no wiſe ſo fruitful as the other two Ridings, by reaſon that the middle Part of it is over-run with the Woulds; which are high Grounds, barren and mooriſh; but are however well-ſtock'd with Sheep: yet the Eaſtern Part upon the Sea is fruitful and pleaſant, which, as well as the Southern Part, produces all Sort of Grain and Graſs. But then, if you take in its Trade and Traffick, it excels both the other Ridings.

Scarborough is the firſt Town we come to upon the Coaſt in the North-riding: it is a Borough Baili⯑wick Town, the Situation of which is perfectly ro⯑mantick; bending in the Form of a Creſcent to the main Ocean, of which you have almoſt an unbound⯑ed Proſpect from all Parts, it being built on a ſteep Rock, and the Declivity of a lofty Hill, on the Top of which ſtood an antient Caſtle, founded by William le Gros, in the Time of King Stephen, and repaired and inlarg'd afterwards by King Henry II. but de⯑moliſhed in the late Civil Wars. The Summit of this [188] Hill contains no leſs than 18 or 20 Acres of Mea⯑dow-ground. The Town is populous, almoſt incom⯑paſſed by the Sea, and walled where it joins not to the Caſtle, or is more ſtrongly defended by the Sea. It has one of the beſt Harbours in the Kingdom, eſpecially ſince the paſſing of an Act of Parliament, Anno 1732, to inlarge its Piers and Harbour, by which they have gained 6 Feet Depth of Water, which enables the Harbour to receive Veſſels of greater Burden than it could do before. And it is the beſt Place, between Newcaſtle and the Humber capable of receiving in Diſtreſs of Weather Ships coming from the Eaſtern Seas along our Northern Coaſt.

The Spaw Waters (whoſe admirable Virtues yearly occaſion a great Concourſe of the Nobility and Gentry of the Kingdom) were firſt diſcovered by Mrs. Ferrow about 120 Years ago, then an Inhabit⯑ant of the Place.

They are reckoned Cathartick and Diuretick, much in their Nature like thoſe of Pyrmont in Germany, and are apparently tinged with a Collection of Mi⯑neral Salts, as of Vitriol, Alum, Iron, and perhaps Sulphur; but being deemed of the ſame Nature as thoſe of Cheltenham in Glouceſterſhire, before deſcrib'd, I refer to them.

Scarborough may be ſaid even to rival the Bath it⯑ſelf, and, on ſeveral Accounts, is more eligible and in⯑viting to Strangers. It is well for the Bath, that its Seaſons interfere not with theirs; for it is fre⯑quented chiefly in the hot Months of the Summer.

There are many new Buildings in it; and more going forward, ſo that there is now good Accom⯑modation for great Numbers even of the higheſt Quality; and they have Aſſemblies and Publick Balls, in long Rooms built on purpoſe.

The unfortunate Accident that happen'd in De⯑cember 1737, whereby this famous Spaw had like to [189] have been loſt, deſerves to be mentioned here. Take then the Account as follows:

The Spaw, as to its Situation, lay South from the Town, on the Sands, and fronting the Sea to the Eaſt, under a high Cliff on the Back of it, Weſt; the Top of the Cliff being above the High-water Level, 54 Yards; and all about a Quarter of a Mile from the Town.

The Staith or Wharf adjoining to the Spaw-houſe, was a large Body of Stone, bound by Timbers, and was a Fence againſt the Sea, for the Security of the Houſe; it was 76 Feet long, and 14 Feet high, and in Weight by Computation 2463 Tons. The Houſe and Buildings were upon a Level with the Staith; at the North End of which, and near adjoining to it, upon a ſmall Riſe above the level Sands, and at the Foot of the Stairs that lead up to the Top of the ſaid Staith, and to the Houſe, were the Spaw Wells.

On Wedneſday, December 28, in the Morning, a great Crack was heard from the Cellar of the Spaw Houſe, and upon Search, the Cellar was found rent; but at the Time, no farther Notice was taken of it.

The Night following, another Crack was heard; and in the Morning, the Inhabitants were ſurpriſed to ſee the ſtrange Poſture it ſtood in, and got ſeveral Gentlemen to view it, who being of Opinion the Houſe could not ſtand long, adviſed them to get out their Goods; but they ſtill continued in it.

On Thurſday following, between Two and Three in the Afternoon, another Crack was heard, and the Top of the Cliff behind it rent 224 Yards in Length, and 36 in Breadth, and was all in Motion, ſlowly deſcending; and ſo continued till dark. The Ground thus rent, contained about an Acre of Paſture-land, and had Cattle then feeding upon it, and was on a Level with the main Land, but ſunk near 17 Yards perpendicular. The Sides of the Cliff neareſt the Spaw ſtood as before, but were rent and broken in [190] many Places, and forced forwards to the Sea. The Ground, when ſunk, lay upon a Level, and the Cattle next Morning were ſtill feeding on it, the main Land being as a Wall on the Weſt, and ſome Part of the Side of the Cliff as a Wall to the Eaſt; but the Whole, to View, gave ſuch a confuſed Pro⯑ſpect, as could hardly be deſcribed.

The Rent of the Top of the Cliff aforeſaid, from the main Land, was 224 Yards. The Rent con⯑tinued from each End, down the Side of the Cliff, to the Sands, was meaſured on the Sands from one End to the other, 168 Yards; viz. 143 South of the Staith and Spaw Wells, and 100 to the North of the Spaw.

As the Ground ſunk, the Earth, or Sand, on which the People uſed to walk under the Cliff, roſe upwards out of its natural Poſition, for above 100 Yards in Length, on each Side of the Staith, North and South; and was in ſome Places ſix, and in others ſeven Yards above its former Level. The Spaw Wells roſe with it; but as ſoon as it began to riſe, the Water at the Spaw Well ceas'd run⯑ning, and was gone.

The Ground thus riſen was 26 Yards broad; the Staith, which was computed at 2463 Tons, roſe intire and whole, 12 Feet higher than its former Po⯑ſition, (but rent a little in the Front) and was forced forwards towards the Sea, 20 Yards.

The moſt reaſonable Account then given for this Phaenomenon, and the Occaſion of the Deſtruction of the Staith, and Spaw Houſe, and the Loſs for ſome time of the Spaw Spring, is as follows:

When this Staith, or Wharf, was lately rebuilt, (it being thrown down by the Violence of the Sea) Mr. Vincent, Engineer for the building of the new Pier at Scarborough, was deſir'd to rebuild this Staith at the Spaw; and digging a Trench to lay the Foundation thereof, with great Difficulty clear'd it [191] of Water; and when he had done it, could, at ſeve⯑ral Parts thereof, very eaſily thruſt his Stick or Cane up to the Handle; from whence it is concluded, that all the Earth under the Staith was of a porous, ſpongy, ſwampy Nature, and was much the ſame below the Foundation of the Spaw Houſe, and all under the Sides of the Cliff adjoining, as well North as South.

Allowing this to be Fact, the ſolid Earth ſinking on the Top of the Cliff, as afore-mention'd, (which was of ſo vaſt a Weight, as by Computation to amount to 261, 360 Tons) preſſing gradually upon and into the ſwampy, boggy Earth beneath it, would of courſe, and did, raiſe the Earth and Sands as before noticed, and ſo effected the Miſchief we have particulariz'd.

But, very luckily for the Town, after a diligent Search, and clearing away the Ruins, as we may ſay, they found again the Spaw Spring; and on Trial, had the Pleaſure to find the Water rather better'd than impair'd by the Diſaſter. And now the Whole is in a more flouriſhing Condition than ever.

Here is ſuch plenty of all Sorts of Fiſh, that I have hardly ſeen the like. To deſcribe the Herring, the Cod, the Whiting, is only to repeat what is ſaid in other Places, and what we ſhall have occaſion to repeat, more than once, now we begin to go far North.

We travelled a long Way from Scarborough, before we came to the next Market-town, which is Whitby, ſituate at the Influx of the little River Eſk, into the Sea. It has an excellent Harbour, and a good Trade by Sea, and 'tis ſaid to have above 200 Ships be⯑longing to it. Here are built a great Number of good Ships for the Coal Trade. It hath a good Cuſtom-houſe. The Market is well furniſh'd, and ſupply'd with all Sorts of Proviſions.

[192]The Harbour and Piers being ſomewhat decay'd they were repair'd by virtue of Two Acts of Parlia⯑ment, in the Firſt and Seventh Years of Queen Anne; and in 1733, an Act paſs'd to preſerve, con⯑tinue, and keep the ſaid Piers in Repair for ever.

By means of theſe ſeveral Acts of Parliament, the Piers of Whitby have been rebuilt and completed; but yet for ſome Years paſt the Entrance into the Port has been rendered very narrow and difficult, by reaſon of a Bank of Sand, which has been gather⯑ing about the Head of the Weſt Pier, inſomuch that it bid fair to choak up the Harbour; nor could this Inconvenience be redreſs'd in the Opinion of the beſt Judges, but by lengthening and extending the Weſt Pier, and its Head, about 100 Yards farther into the Sea. For this Reaſon another Act paſſed in the Eighth of King George II. for lengthening the Weſt Pier, and for improving the Harbour.

At the Foot of ſome Rocks, at this Town, have been found Stones naturally as round as a Bullet, which when broken, ſtony Serpents are found in them, for the moſt part headleſs, look'd upon as a Luſus Naturae.

This Place was antiently called Streanſhall, and Oſwy King of Northumberland held a Council here, in 663, to determine the Controverſy between thoſe who kept Eaſter after the Britiſh manner, and thoſe who kept it after the Roman manner, which Augu⯑ſtine the Monk had lately introduced. After the Party for the firſt had ſpoken, the other anſwering, inſiſted they kept Eaſter after the manner of St. Peter, on whom Chriſt promiſed to build his Church, and had the Keys of Heaven. Upon which the King aſk'd, If it was true, that Chriſt had ſpoken ſo to St. Peter? Which the adverſe Party allowing, the King ſwore a great Oath, That he would not diſoblige this Porter of Heaven, leſt, when he came to the Gates, he ſhould remember him: and [193] ſo eſtabliſh'd the Celebration of Eaſter after the Ro⯑man Manner.

Near this Place are ſome Alum Mines, belonging to her Grace the Dutcheſs of Bucks, in which there is carry'd on a very conſiderable Trade.

We inquir'd as to that ſtrange and wonderful Phe⯑nomenon relating to the Air here, which, as the wild Geeſe fly over a Piece of Ground near this Place, in hard Winters, to the Lakes in the Southern Coun⯑tries, makes them drop down all of a ſudden to the Ground; and had it aſſur'd to us for Truth, though none could aſſign any Reaſon for it.

There are Spaw Waters at Whitby, which have had great Reputation. Several curious and antique Coins have been dug up in this Neighbourhood; and a Monaſtery was founded here by St. Hilda, about the Year 650; and being deſtroyed by the Danes, was afterwards rebuilt: the Ruins of which (very conſiderable) are ſtill to be ſeen. In the Month of November 1710, ſuch a dreadful Storm happen'd here, that the Damage to the Shipping, &c. was computed at 40,000l.

Here the Coaſt inclines North-weſt, and we fol⯑lowed it till we came to Giſborough, a Market-town pretty well built, a little way from the Sea, upon a ſmall nameleſs River. It is a fine and delicious Situation, endued with ſuch a grateful Variety and Advantages of Nature, as renders it moſt delightfully pleaſant: a fine Scene of Verdure overſpreads all the Grounds about it, which are deck'd with Plenty of Field-flowers, almoſt all the Year round. Some compare it to Puteoli in Italy, but allow that it exceeds it in Healthineſs. It ſtands high, and would have been incommoded with cold Breezes (as it ſtands ſo Northerly) from the Sea, but that ſome Hills conveniently interfere, ſo as to qualify the Cold.

[194]The Behaviour of the Inhabitants too participates of the Pleaſantneſs of the Place; for they are very courteous, well-bred, and obliging, and very neat and cleanly in their Houſes.

Here are likewiſe ſome Alum Mines, but not ſo conſiderable and eaſy wrought as thoſe of Whitby, which has taken off a great Part of that Trade from hence.

This pleaſant Town is the laſt on the Eaſt-ſide towards the Sea, in this North-riding, in our Way to Durham. It made ſo delightful an Impreſſion on my Mind, that I left the whole County in gene⯑ral, but this Place, and truly pleaſurable Country about it, in particular, with Regret.

And thus have I accompliſh'd the third and laſt Part of my Propoſition, with reſpect to my Circuit through this large and far extended County: and though I have been not a little circumſtantial in my Accounts of it, yet there are many curious Matters, that ſtill remain untouch'd, and could not be brought within the Compaſs of an Epiſtolary Correſpondence of this kind.

But as I have given you only a Deſcription of the County above Ground, take the following Memo⯑randums of the Treaſures which are contained in its Bowels:

Alum, Jet, or Black Amber, Copperas, Marble, Pit-coal, Lead, Copper, Limeſtone, and Kelp.

The firſt Market-town we come to in the Biſhop⯑rick of Durham, on the Eaſt-ſide, is Stockton, which lies on the North-ſide of the Teis. It has riſen, at the Expence of Yarum, from a poor pitiful Village, with Clay Walls and Straw Covering to the Houſes, to a well-built Corporate Town, of great Reſort and Buſineſs, govern'd by a Mayor, &c. 'Tis famous for its Ale, and a good Trade, which it carries on in [195] Lead and Butter, by the Teis, with London, which formerly was altogether at Yarum. But this Town lying nearer the Sea, and conſequently more conve⯑nient, has almoſt engroſs'd the whole Trade to itſelf.

Coaſting along the Sea-ſide, we come next to Hartlepool, which is a famous corporate Mayor-town, and ſeated on a little Promontory, which juts out into the Sea, with which it is encompaſs'd on all Sides, except the Weſt. The Market was much more conſiderable formerly than now; and its chief Subſiſtence riſes only from its good Harbour, which frequently receives the Coal-fleet from Newcaſtle, in bad Weather.

We turn'd from hence to the Left North-weſt, and came to Durham next, which is a fine City, pretty large, compact, well-contriv'd, and well ſituated, high, pleaſant, and healthy, and ſurrounded almoſt with the River Were, over which are two good Stone Bridges. The Caſtle ſtands on an Eminence, with which the River incloſes the City; as the Caſtle does alſo the Cathedral, the Biſhop's Palace, and the fine Houſes of the Clergy, where they live in great Splendor and Magnificence. All Sorts of Proviſions and other Neceſſaries and Conveniencies for Life, are very cheap, as well as very good, here, tho' it has but one weekly Market, which is kept in a large ſpacious Area in the Town. It is govern'd by a Mayor, Aldermen, Recorder, and Sheriffs, and has ſix Pariſh Churches, beſides the Cathedral, which is very noble and magnificent, adorn'd with a high Tower, which riſes from the Midſt of it, and two Spires at the Weſt End.

Thus from a poor Oratory of wreathen Wands and Hurdles, with which the indigent Monks of Landisfarn had firſt built it, it is become one of the moſt ſumptuous Buildings of the Kind in England, [196] and was erected out of the Offerings which were made by the ſuperſtitious Multitude at the Shrine of St. Cuthbert. And yet, notwithſtanding the Reſi⯑dence of ſo many dignified Proteſtant Clergy, 'tis ſaid, there are ſtill great Numbers of Roman Catho⯑licks in this City.

I need not tell you, that the Biſhop of Durham is a Temporal Prince, that he keeps a Court of Equity, and alſo Courts of Juſtice in ordinary Cauſes, within himſelf. He is ſtill Earl of Sadberg, and takes Place as Biſhop immediately after the Biſhop of London. As the Country about Rome is called St. Peter's Pa⯑trimony, ſo that about Durham is St. Cuthbert's, to whom the Church is dedicated, as 'tis ſaid it was founded by the Monks of Landisfarn. David King of Scots laying all Waſte with Fire and Sword, while King Edward III. was at Calais, Zouch, the valiant Biſhop, fought the Scots at Nevil's Croſs, where they were cut in Pieces, and their King taken Priſoner. He was the ſixth Biſhop of Landisfarn, or Holy Iſland, from whence the See was removed hither.

The Biſhoprick is eſteemed one of the beſt in Eng⯑land; and the Prebends, and other Church Livings, in the Gift of the Biſhop, are the richeſt in the Kingdom. They told me there, that the Biſhop had thirteen Livings in his Gift, from 300l. to 800l. a Year; and the Living of the little Town of Sedg⯑field, a few Miles South of the City, is ſaid to be worth 700l. a Year, beſides the ſmall Tythes, which maintain a Curate, or might do ſo.

This Church is very rich: they have excellent Muſick. The old Veſtments, which the Clergy be⯑fore the Reformation wore, are ſtill us'd on Sundays and other Holy-days, by the Reſidents. They are ſo rich with Embroidery and emboſs'd Work of Silver, as muſt needs make it uneaſy for the Wearers to ſuſtain. In this Cathedral lies the Body of the V [...]rable Bede.

[197]One of the old Biſhops of Durham purchaſed for a round Sum of Money all the Rights of the Pala⯑tinate, and other Juriſdiction in this County from King Richard I. and, by his laſt Will, left them to the ſucceeding Biſhops. But King Henry VIII. by Act of Parliament, greatly abridged the Temporal Power and Juriſdiction of this Biſhoprick; and King Edward VI. (or rather his Uncle Somerſet) by Act of Parliament diſſolved the Biſhoprick intirely; but it was reſtored by Queen Mary. Neither City nor County ever ſent Members to the Houſe of Commons, till the Vacancy of the See, by the Death of Biſhop Coſins, Anno 1672; and ſince they return each of them Two, which is all that the County ſend.

We took a Trip from Durham, South, to ſee Biſhops Auckland, which is a Market-town, pleaſantly ſeated upon a Hill, in a very good Air, and is noted for a moſt noble Palace, beautified with Turrets, be⯑longing to the Biſhop, and alſo a fine Chapel, founded and built by Biſhop Coſins, who re-edified the Palace, after the Enthuſiaſtick Rage of the late Civil Wars had ruin'd it.

Here we turn'd Weſt, and following the Were, paſs'd thro' Wolſingham, a little Town of no Note, to Stanhop, a little Town alſo, which had once a Market, but 'tis now diſcontinued. It is only noted for a very good Park, which lies near it, where King Edward III. beſieging the Scots in their Camp, had like to have been ſurpris'd in his Tent by one Douglas, an adventurous Scot, had not the King's Chaplain defended him with the Loſs of his own Life.

Theſe Weſtern Parts of the County, all to the upper Part of it, are very hilly and mountainous, and the Fields near them look naked and barren; but the Iron Mines they produce within their Bowels, make ample Amends for the Barrenneſs of the Surface.

[198]We return'd from theſe inhoſpitable Parts to Durham; from whence we kept the common Road to Cheſter in the Street, an old, dirty, thoroughfare Town, void of all Remains of the Greatneſs, which Antiquaries ſay were to be ſeen there, when it was a Roman Colony. Here is a Stone Bridge, but in⯑ſtead of riding over it, we rode under it, thro' one of the Arches, the Stream not being over the Horſes Hoofs in Water; yet, on Inquiry, we found, that ſometimes they have Uſe enough for it.

Lumley-caſtle, belonging to the Earl of Scarbo⯑rough, is juſt on the other Side of the Road, as you paſs between Durham and Cheſter, pleaſantly ſeated in a fine Park, near the Eaſt Bank of the River Were. The Park, beſides the Pleaſantneſs of it, has this much more valuable Circumſtance to recom⯑mend it, that it is full of excellent Veins of the beſt Coal in the Country (for the Lumley Coals are known for their Goodneſs at London, as well as there). This, with a ſometimes navigable River juſt at hand, by which the Coals are carried down to Sunderland to the Ships, makes Lumley Park an inexhauſtible Treaſure to the Family.

They tell us, that King James I. lodged in this Caſtle, at his Entrance into England to take Poſſeſ⯑ſion of the Throne; and ſeeing a fine Picture of the antient Pedigree of the Family, which carried it very far beyond what his Majeſty thought credible, turned this good Jeſt upon it to the Biſhop of Dur⯑ham, who ſhewed it him, That indeed he did not know, that Adam's Surname was Lumley, before.

Here we turned from the Road, and croſſing the Were, followed it Eaſt to Sunderland, a Corporate Sea-port Town in the County Palatine of Durham, populous and well-built, with a very handſome Church in it; and tho' the River be not large, it carries on a great Trade in Coals, at high Water. [199] It is a Peninſula, almoſt ſurrounded by the Sea. It has a very fine Church; and its Rector, the Rev. and worthy Mr. Daniel Newcome, was the principal Architect in the building of it. This Gentleman ſpent the greateſt Part of his Income in beautifying and adorning it. He began by building a Dome, adjoining to the Eaſt-end, into which he removed the Altar, placing it under a Canopy of inlaid Work, ſupported in Front by Two fluted Pillars of the Corinthian Order, with proper Capitals. His Bene⯑volence and Charity were equally extenſive to all who were proper Objects of them; and he delighted in doing Good. This worthy Man, however, liv'd not to ſee his new Works to the Church quite com⯑pleted, dying very much lamented, on 5 Jan. 1738.

The Eaſtern Side of the County, along the Sea Coaſt, and indeed the Southern Side, along the Banks of the Teis, is very fertile and delightful, thick of little Towns and Villages, which are very populous; and as the Mountains on the Weſt pro⯑duce Iron Mines, this Side is full of thoſe of Coals, which lie ſo very near the Surface of the Ground, that the Cart Wheels preſs into them.

And indeed from Durham, the Road to Newcaſtle gives a View of the inexhauſted Store of Coals and Coal Pits, from whence not London only, but all the South Part of England is continually ſupplied; and tho' at London, when we ſee the prodigious Fleets of Ships which come conſtantly in with Coals, we are apt to wonder how it is poſſible for them to be ſupplied, and that they do not bring the whole Coal Country away; yet, when in this Country we ſee the prodigious Heaps, I might ſay Mountains of Coals, which are dug up at every Pit, and how many of thoſe Pits there are, we are filled with equal Wonder to conſider where the People ſhould live that conſume them.

[200]At the Mouth of the Tyne, which parts Durham from Northumberland, ſtands the Village of Sheals, the Station of the Sea Coal Fleets, where there have been ſome Marks of Roman Antiquity diſcovered not many Years ſince.

Yarrow, noted for the Birth-place of the Venerable Bede, ſtands a little higher upon the ſame River; and upon the other Side of the Tyne ſtands Gates⯑head, the Receptacle of the Coal-pit Men, juſt over-againſt Newcaſtle; and is ſuppoſed to have been antiently Part of it, tho' divided by the River, over which there is a ſtately Stone-bridge, with an Iron⯑gate in the Middle, which ſerves as a Boundary be⯑tween the Biſhoprick and the County of Northum⯑berland.

The Air in this Biſhoprick is pretty cold and piercing; and 'tis well for the Poor, that Nature has ſupplied them ſo abundantly with Fuel for Firing; and indeed all other Proviſions and Neceſſaries are very cheap here. It ſeems as if the whole County had been originally appropriated to Religion and War; for it is full of the Ruins of Religious Houſes and Caſtles.

We are now entering into the large and exten⯑ſive County of Northumberland, which for many Ages was the Bone of Contention, and Seat of War between England and Scotland.

Newcaſtle is a large and exceeding populous Town, under the Government of a Mayor, Aldermen, Recorder, &c. and is ſituate between the Wall of Severus and the Tyne, which becomes here a fine deep and noble River, inſomuch that Ships of a middling Burden may come ſafely up to the very Town, tho' the large Colliery Ships are ſtation'd at Sheals. It may be conſider'd as divided into Two Parts, whereof Gateſhead, before ſpoken of on Dur⯑ham [201] Side, is one. They are both joined by the Bridge, which conſiſts of Seven Arches, as large, at leaſt, as thoſe of London Bridge, and ſupport a Street of Houſes, as that does.

The Liberty of the Town, as it is a Corporation, extends no farther than the Gate upon the Bridge; which, ſome Years ſince, was the Preſervation of it, by ſtopping a terrible Fire, that otherwiſe had, per⯑haps, burnt the whole Street of Houſes on the City Side of the Bridge, as it did thoſe beyond it. On the Eaſt Side of this Gate the Arms of the Biſhop of Durham are carved, as thoſe of the Town of Newcaſtle are on the Weſt Side.

There is alſo a very noble Exchange here; and the Wall of the Town runs parallel from it with the River, leaving a ſpacious Piece of Ground before it between the Water and the Wall; which being well wharfed up, and faced with Free-ſtone, makes the longeſt and largeſt Quay for landing and lading Goods, that is to be ſeen in England, except that at Yarmouth in Norfolk, it being much longer than that at Briſtol.

Here is a large Hoſpital built by Contribution of the Keel Men, by way of Friendly Society, for the Maintenance of the Poor of their Fraternity, and which, had it not met with Diſcouragements from thoſe who ought rather to have aſſiſted ſo good a Work, might have been a noble Proviſion for that numerous and laborious People. The Keel Men are thoſe who manage the Lighters, which they call Keels, by which the Coals are taken from the Staiths, or Wharfs, and carried on board the Ships at Sheals to load them for London.

Here are ſeveral large publick Buildings alſo; par⯑ticularly a Houſe of State for the Mayor of the Town (for the Time being) to remove to, and dwell in during his Mayoralty. Here is alſo a Hall [202] for the Surgeons to meet in, where they have Two Skeletons of human Bodies, one a Man, and the other a Woman, and ſome other Rarities.

And ſince this Work went to the Preſs, I am inform'd, that the Rev. Dr. Robert Thomlinſon, Rector of Whickham in the County of Durham, and Prebendary of St. Paul's, gave to this Corporation a valuable Collection of Books, conſiſting of upwards of 6000 Volumes; and alſo ſettled a Rent-charge of Five Pounds per Annum for ever, for buying new Books. And Walter Blackett, Eſq one of their Repreſentatives in Parliament, has, at his own Ex⯑pence, built a handſome Fabrick for the Reception of thoſe Books, and ſettled in Mortmain a Rent-charge of 25l. per Annum for ever for a Librarian.

The Town is defended by an exceeding ſtrong Wall, wherein are Seven Gates, and as many Tur⯑rets, The Caſtle, tho' old and ruinous, overlooks the whole Town. The worſt is, that the Situation of the Town b [...]ing on the Declivity of Two high Hills, and the Buildings being very cloſe and old, render it incommodious, to which the Smoke of the Coals contributes not a little; and conſequently excludes ſuch who ſeek a Reſidence of Pleaſure: but then as the River which runs between the Two Hills, makes it a Place of great Trade and Buſineſs, that Inconvenience is abundantly recompenſed.

They have Two Articles of Trade here, which are particularly owing to the Coals, viz. Glaſs⯑houſes and Salt-pans; the firſt are in the Town, the laſt are at Sheals, Seven Miles below it; but their Coals are brought chiefly from the Town. Prodi⯑gious are the Quantities of Coals which thoſe Salt Works conſume; and the Fires make ſuch a Smoke, that we ſaw it aſcend in huge Clouds over the Hills, Four Miles before we came to Durham, which is at leaſt 16 Miles from the Place. In ſhort, the [203] Town is almoſt ſurrounded with Coal-pits; and London is reckoned to take off upwards of 600,000 Chaldrons yearly, at Thirty-ſix Buſhels to the Chal⯑dron.

Here I met with a Remark which was quite new to me, and will be ſo, I ſuppoſe, to many others. You well know, we receive at London every Year a great Quantity of Salmon pickled or cured, and ſent up in the Pickle in Kits or Tubs, which we call Newcaſtle Salmon. In conſequence of this, when I came to Newcaſtle, I expected to ſee great Plenty of Salmon there; but was ſurpriſed to find it, on the contrary, ſo ſcarce, that a good large freſh Salmon was not to be had under Five or Six Shillings. Upon Inquiry I learnt, that really this Salmon, which we call Newcaſtle Salmon, is taken as far off as the Tweed, which is near 50 Miles further, and is brought by Land on Horſes to Sheals, where it is cured, pickled, and ſent to London, as above; ſo that it is more properly Berwick Salmon than Newcaſtle.

There is but one Parochial Church, called St. Ni⯑colas, built by St. David, King of Scotland, but ſeveral Chapels as large as Churches. Here are like⯑wiſe ſome Meeting-houſes, and a great many well-endowed Charity-ſchools. It is not only inriched by the Coal Trade, but there are alſo very conſiderable Merchants in it, who carry on Traffick to divers Parts of the World, eſpecially to Holland, Ham⯑burgh, Norway, and the Baltick.

They build Ships here to Perfection as to Strength and Firmneſs, and to bear the Sea, as the Coal Trade requires. This gives an Addition to the Merchants Buſineſs, it requiring a Supply of all Sorts of Naval Stores to fit out thoſe Ships.

Here is alſo a conſiderable Manufacture of Hard Ware, or Wrought Iron, of late Years erected after the manner of Sheffield, which is very helpful for [204] imploying the Poor, of which the Town has always a prodigious Number.

This Town was taken and plundered by the Scots in the Beginning of the late Civil Wars; and here it was, (to their eternal Reproach be it remem⯑ber'd) that the Scots perfidiouſly ſold their King for 2000l. in hand, and Security for 2000l. more, after he had in Confidence intruſted himſelf in their Hands, and without any Conditions made for him: a Tranſaction equally deteſtable with that of cutting off his Head; or more, if poſſible, as thoſe who did the laſt were his avow'd and implacable Enemies, whereas the others received him as his Friends and Protectors.

On the 12th of January, 1738-9, Part of the antient Gate, leading to the Caſtle-Garth, fell down; and tho' ſeveral Shops joined to it, yet nobody receiv'd any Hurt.

The Town was formerly fortify'd with a great Caſtle, the Walls of which are ſtill ſtanding. Its antient Name was Monk-Cheſter; but on the build⯑ing of a new Caſtle in the Time of William the Conqueror, it obtain'd its preſent Name. It enjoys great Privileges by the Favour of Queen Elizabeth, and being one of thoſe which are called County-towns, governs itſelf independently of the Lord Lieutenant.

Weſt from Newcaſtle lies the Bailiwick-Town of Hexham, (the Axelodunum of the Romans) a Paſs upon the Tyne, famous, or rather infamous, for having the firſt Blood drawn near it in the late Civil War; and where a Detachment of Engliſh, tho' advantageouſly poſted, were ſcandalouſly defeated by the Scots, who gain'd the Paſs, fought thro' the River, and killed about 400 Men, the reſt baſely running away; after which, the Town of New⯑caſtle was as eaſily ſeized upon, without ſtriking a Stroke.

[205]The Country round this Town is vulgarly called Hexhamſhire. It was formerly the Seat of a Biſhop, till Henry VIII. annexed it to that of Durham. Its Cathedral was ſtately, before the Scots ruin'd the greateſt Part of it in one of their Excurſions. On the other Side of the Tyne from Hexhamſhire, you ſee a Houſe very beautifully ſituated, belonging to the Family of Errington, called Bifront; and within Two Miles of Hexham is a fine Houſe built by the late unfortunate Earl of Derwentwater, called Dil⯑ſton.

I was greatly tempted here to trace the famous Wall built by the Romans, or rather rebuilt by them, from hence to Carliſle, the Particulats of which, and the Remains of Antiquity ſeen upon it, our Hiſtories are full of. I went to ſeveral Places in the Fields thro' which it paſſed, where I ſaw the Re⯑mains of it, ſome almoſt loſt, and ſome very viſi⯑ble. But of this more in another Place.

Northumberland is a long coaſting County, lying chiefly on the Sea to the Eaſt, and bounded by the Mountains of Stainmore on the Weſt, which are in ſome Places inacceſſible, but in many others unpaſſable.

Here is abundant Buſineſs for an Antiquary; every Place ſhews you ruined Caſtles, Roman Altars, In⯑ſcriptions, Monuments of Battles, of Heroes killed, Armies routed, and the like. The Towns of Mor⯑peth, Alnwick, Warkworth, Tickill, and many others, ſhew their old Caſtles, and ſome of them ſtill in tolerable Repair, Alnwick in particular, and Warkworth; others, as Bambrough, Norham, Chil⯑lingham, Horton, Dunſtar, Wark, and a great many more, are ſunk in their own Ruins, by mere Length of Time.

We had Cheviot Hills ſo plain in view, that we could not but inquire of the Inhabitants every-where, whether they had heard of the Fight at Chevy-Chace: [206] they not only told us they had heard of it, but had all the Account of it at their Fingers End; where⯑upon taking a Guide at Wooller, a ſmall Town, lying, as it were, under the Hills, he led us on to⯑ward the Top of the Hill; for, by the way, altho' there are many Hills and Reachings for many Miles, which bear the Name of Cheviot Hills, yet there is one of them a great deal higher than the reſt, which, at a Diſtance, looks like the Pico-Teneriffe in the Ca⯑naries, and is ſo high, that it is plainly ſeen from the Roſemary Top in the Eaſt-Riding of Yorkſhire, which is near 60 Miles off.

We were preparing to clamber up this Hill on Foot, when our Guide told us, he would find a Way for us to get up on Horſe-back. He then very artfully led us round to a Part of the Hill, where, in the Winter-ſeaſon, great Streams of Water come pouring down from it in ſeveral Cha⯑nels, which were pretty broad, and over-grown on each Side with Alder-trees ſo cloſe and thick, that we rode under them as in an Arbour. In one of theſe Chanels we mounted the Hill, as Beſiegers approach a fortified Town by Trenches, and were got a great way up, before we were well aware of it; for we were already ſo far advanced, that we could ſee ſome of the Hills, which before we thought very high, lying under us, as if they were a Part of the Plain below. As we mounted higher, we found the Hill ſteeper than at firſt; and our Horſes being very much fatigu'd, we alighted, and proceeded on Foot. When we had gain'd the Top, we were agreeably ſurpriſed to ſee a ſmooth and pleaſant Plain half a Mile in Diameter, with a large Pond in the middle of it; for we had a Notion, when at Bottom, that the Hill narrow'd to a Point, and that when we came to the Top, we ſhould be as upon a Pinacle, with a Precipice every Way round us.

[207]The Day, to our great Satisfaction, happen'd to be very calm, and ſo clear, that we could plainly ſee the Smoke of the Salt-pans at Sheals, at the Mouth of the Tyne, which was about 40 Miles South from this. We ſaw likewiſe ſeveral Hills, which our Guide told us were in England, and others in the Weſt of Scotland, the Names of which I have forgot. Eaſtward we ſaw Berwick, and to the North the Hills called Soutra Hills, which are in Sight of Edinburgh. In ſhort, we had a ſurprizing View of the united Kingdom; and tho' all the Country round us looked very well, yet, it muſt be owned, the Scots Side ſeemed the pleaſanteſt, and had the beſt Ground.

Satisfied with this Proſpect, and not thinking our Time or Pains ill beſtowed, we came down the Hill by the ſame Rout we went up. Our Guide after⯑wards carried us to a ſingle Houſe, called Wooller Haugh-head, a much better Inn than we expected to meet with thereabouts.

At this Inn, we inquired after the Particulars of the famous Story of Chevy Chaſe, and found that the People had the following Notion of it; That it was an Inroad of the Earl of Douglas into England, in order to ravage, burn, and plunder the Country, as was uſual in thoſe Days: That Piercy, Earl of Northumberland, march'd with his Friends and Fol⯑lowers, to meet the Scots; both Parties encounter'd at the Foot of Cheviot Hills, and a bloody Battle enſued, wherein both the Earls were ſlain, deſpe⯑rately fighting at the Head of their Troops; and ſo many fell on both Sides, that it could not be deter⯑min'd which had the Victory.

They ſhewed us the Place where this Battle was fought, which, if their Tradition does not miſlead them, is on the Side of the Hill near the Road. It is ſaid, the Scots were moſtly Horſe, and therefore the Engliſh Archers placed themſelves on the Side of [208] a ſteep Aſcent, that they might not be broken in upon by them. The Spots of Ground where the Two Earls are ſaid to have fallen, are diſtinguiſhed by Two Stones to this Day. The Fight the Scots call the Battle of Otterburn, and make a very fa⯑mous Story of it, to the Honour of their Nation.

About Six or Seven Miles from hence we ſaw the ever memorable Flodden-field, where James IV. King of Scotland, invading England with a great Army, when Henry VIII. was engaged abroad in the Siege of Tournay, was met by the gallant Earl of Surrey, in which, after a bloody Battle, the Scots were totally defeated, and their King, fighting vali⯑antly at the Head of his Nobility, was ſlain.

The River Till, which our Hiſtorians call a deep and ſwift River, where many of the Scots were drown'd in their Flight, ſeemed to me every-where paſſable with great Eaſe; but perhaps it might at that time be ſwelled with ſome ſudden Rain, which the Hiſtorians ought to have taken notice of.

I muſt not quit Northumberland without taking notice, that the Natives of this Country, of the ancient original Race or Families, are diſtinguiſhed by a Shibboleth upon their Tongues in pronouncing the Letter R, which they cannot utter without a hollow Jarring in the Throat, by which they are as plainly known, as a Foreigner is in pronouncing the Th: this they call the Northumberland R, or Wharle; and the Natives value themſelves upon that Imper⯑fection, becauſe, forſooth, it ſhews the Antiquity of their Blood.

From hence lay a Road into Scotland, by the Town of Kelſo, which I afterwards paſſed thro'; but at preſent inclining to ſee Berwick upon Tweed, we turned to the Weſt, and viſited that old Fron⯑tier, where is a fine Bridge over the Tweed, built by Queen Elizabeth; a noble, ſtately Work, con⯑ſiſting of 16 Arches, and joining, as may be ſaid, [209] the Two Kingdoms. The chief Trade I found here was in Corn and Salmon.

I am now on the Borders of Scotland, and muſt call to mind, that I have not yet gone over the Weſtern Coaſt of England, viz. Lancaſter, Weſt⯑morland, and Cumberland.

I muſt needs own, that ſince I entered upon the View of theſe Northern Counties, I have many times regretted, that my Limits forbid me often to decline the delightful View of Antiquity, of which there is ſo great and ſo ſurprizing a Variety every Day diſcovered; for the religious, as well as military Re⯑mains of the Britons, Romans, Saxons, and Nor⯑mans, like Wounds haſtily healed up, appear pre⯑ſently when the Callus, which was ſpread over them, is removed; and though the Earth has defaced the Figures and Inſcriptions upon moſt of theſe Curio⯑ſities, yet they are beautiful, even in their Decay; and the venerable Face of Antiquity has ſomething ſo pleaſing, ſo ſurpriſing, ſo ſatisfactory in it, eſpe⯑cially to thoſe who have, with any Attention, read the Hiſtories of paſt Ages, that I know nothing which renders Travelling more pleaſant and more agreeable.

The Deſcription of the other Three Counties will be the Subject of my next Letter. Mean time, I am,

LETTER IV. CONTAINING A Deſcription of the Counties of Lancaſter, Weſtmorland, and Cumberland.

I Entered Lancaſhire at the remoteſt Weſtern Point of that County, hav⯑ing been at Weſt Cheſter upon a parti⯑cular Occaſion, and from thence fer⯑ry'd over from the Ceſtrian Cherſo⯑neſus, as I have already called it, to Liverpoole. This narrow Slip of Land, rich, fertile, and full of Inhabitants, tho' formerly, as Authors ſay, a mere waſte and deſolate Foreſt, is called Wirall, or by ſome Wirehall. Here is a Ferry over the Merſee, which, at full Sea, is more than two Miles over. You land on the flat Shore on the other Side, and muſt be content to ride thro' the Water for ſome Length, not on Horſeback, but on the Shoulders of ſome Lancaſhire Clown, who comes Knee-deep to the Boat's Side, to truſs one up; and then runs away more nimbly than one deſires to ride, unleſs his Trot were eaſier.

Liverpoole is one of the Wonders of Britain, be⯑cauſe of its prodigious Increaſe of Trade and Build⯑ings, [211] within the Compaſs of a very few Years; rivalling Briſtol in the Trade to Virginia, and the Engliſh Colonies in America. They trade alſo round the whole Iſland, ſend Ships to Norway, to Ham⯑burg, and to the Baltick, as alſo to Holland and Flanders; ſo that, they are almoſt become, like the Londoners, univerſal Merchants.

The Trade of Liverpoole conſiſts not only in Mer⯑chandizing and Correſpondencies beyond Seas; but as they import almoſt all Kinds of foreign Goods, they have conſequently a large Inland Trade, and a great Correſpondence with Ireland and Scotland for Conſumption of their Goods, exactly as it is with Briſtol; and they really divide the Trade with Briſtol upon very remarkable Equalities.

Briſtol lies upon the Iriſh Sea; ſo does Liver⯑poole: Briſtol trades chiefly to the South and Weſt Parts of Ireland, from Dublin in the Eaſt to Gallo⯑way Weſt; Liverpoole has all the Trade of the Eaſt Shore and the North, from the Harbour of Dublin to Londonderry: Briſtol has the Trade of South Wales; Liverpoole great Part of the Trade of North Wales: Briſtol has the South-weſt Counties of England, and ſome North of it, as high as Bridge-North, and perhaps to Shrewſbury; Liverpoole has all the Northern Counties; and a large Conſumption of Goods in Cheſhire and Staffordſhire is ſupplied from thence.

Ireland is alſo ſhared between both; and for the Northern Coaſt of it, if the Liverpoole Men have not the whole Fiſhery, or, at leaſt, in Company with the Merchants of Londonderry, the Fault is their own. The Situation of Liverpoole is very advantageous to⯑wards improving its Commerce, and extending it into the Northern Inland Counties of England, par⯑ticularly into Cheſhire and Staffordſhire, by the new Navigation of the Rivers Merſee, the Weaver, and the Dane. By the laſt the Merchants come ſo near [212] the Trent with their Goods, that they make no Difficulty to carry them by Land to Burton, and from thence correſpond quite thro' the Kingdom, even to Hull; and they begin to be very ſenſible of the Profit of ſuch a Commerce.

It is ſome Advantage to the growing Commerce of this Town, that the Freemen of it are, in conſe⯑quence of that Freedom, free alſo of Briſtol; as they are of the Corporations of Waterford and Wex⯑ford in the Kingdom of Ireland. Not that theſe Corporation Privileges are of any great Value to Liverpoole in its foreign Trade; but in particular Caſes, it may be ſome Advantage, as in Town Duties, in admitting them to ſet up Trades in thoſe Corporations, and the like.

The Town has no Fortifications either to the Land or the Sea; tho' when the late Northern Inſurrection reached to Preſton, the Inhabitants would have been glad of Walls and Gates; and indeed, had the Rebel Party had time to have advanced to Warrington, ſeized the Paſs there, and taken Mancheſter, as they would certainly have done in three Days more, it would have fared but very ill with Liverpoole, which could have made but little Reſiſtance againſt an armed and deſperate Body of Men: beſides, the Rebels would have not only found the Sweets of Plunder here, but Arms, Ammunition, Powder, and Lead, all which they extremely wanted. They would have had Ships alſo to have facilitated a Communi⯑cation with Ireland, from whence Numbers would have landed, if it had been only in hopes of Plunder. But, happy for Liverpoole, as well as the whole Kingdom! the Rebels were defeated, before they proceeded ſo far.

The Situation of Liverpoole being on the North Bank of the River, with the Diſadvantage of a flat Shore, the Merchants were laid under great Diffi⯑culties in their Buſineſs; for tho' the Harbour was [213] good, and the Ships rode well in the Offing, yet they were obliged to ride there as in a Road, rather than a Harbour. Here was no Mole or Haven to bring in their Ships, and lay them up (as the Seamen call it) for the Winter, nor any Quay for the delivering their Goods, as at Briſtol, Biddiford, Newcaſtle, Hull, and other Sea Ports. Upon this, the Inhabitants and Merchants, by the Aid of an Act of Parliament paſſed in the Eighth Year of the Reign of the late Queen Anne, which was prolonged by another, paſſed in the Third Year of his Majeſty King George I. made a large Baſin, or wet Dock, at the Eaſt End of the Town, where, at a very great Charge, the Place conſidered, they have brought the Tide from the Merſee, to flow up by an Opening, that looks to the South, and the Ships go in North; ſo that the Town ſhelters it from the Weſterly and Northerly Winds, the Hills from the Eaſterly, and the Ships lie, as in a Mill-pond, with the utmoſt Safety and Con⯑venience. As this is ſo great a Benefit to the Town, the like of which is not to be ſeen in any Place of England, for the Merchants Service, London excepted, it is well worth the Imitation of many other trade⯑ing Places in Britain, who for want of ſuch a Con⯑venience, loſe their Trade; for indeed the Inhabit⯑ants of Liverpoole ſuffered not a little for want of it in the great Storm, Anno 1703. This Dock is capable of holding 100 Sail of Ships.

But tho' theſe new Works have been of ſuch Ad⯑vantage to this flouriſhing Town, yet ſomething more appeared wanting to crown the Work; for, it ſeems, the Entrance into the Dock or Baſin, from the open Harbour, was ſo ſtreight, that Ships and Veſſels lying in the Dock were often hinder'd from getting out to Sea; and thoſe without the Dock, in the open Harbour, were frequently forced aſhore and loſt. To remedy this Inconvenience, an Act paſſed, Anno 1738, for inlarging the ſaid Entrance, and for erect⯑ing [214] a Pier in the open Harbour, on the North and South Sides of the ſaid Entrance. And as the Lives of divers Perſons were endanger'd and loſt, and Goods often run and ſmuggled, for want of keeping proper and ſufficient Lights in the Night-time, about the ſaid Wet-dock or Baſin, the ſame Act impowers the Corporation to ſet up ſuch a Number of Lamps to enlighten the Dock, as they ſhall think requi⯑ſite: all which muſt be of the higheſt Benefit to this fine Town, and a great Furtherance to its Trade and Navigation.

The Cuſtom-houſe adjoining to the Dock is alſo but the Work of a few Years paſt, and is not only a commodious, but an elegant Piece of Building.

Liverpoole had formerly but one Church, dedi⯑cated to our Lady, and St. Nicolas, and that depen⯑dent on the Pariſh of Walton; but upon the Increaſe of Inhabitants, and of new Buildings, in ſo extraordi⯑nary a manner, an Act of Parliament paſſed in the Tenth Year of King William III. enabling the Cor⯑poration to build and endow a new one, and to make Liverpoole independent of Walton. Anno 1704, the Church of St. Peter's on the Eaſt-ſide of the Town, which had been built at the Charge of the Pariſh to which it was appropriated, was conſecrated. But this being ſtill not ſufficient for this flouriſhing Town, her late Majeſty Queen Anne, in the Third Year of her Reign, granted to the Corporation for 50 Years a Leaſe of the Scite of Liverpoole Caſtle, which had long lain in Ruins, whereon to erect a third Church, and other Edifices, under the yearly Rent of 6l. 13s. 4d. together with Liberty to uſe the Mate⯑rials of the old Caſtle for that Purpoſe. And his late Majeſty King George I. by Act of Parliament, was pleaſed to make over to the Corporation for ever, on a Reſerve of the ſame annual Rent, the ſaid Scite of the old Caſtle; whereon the Inhabitants erected the ſaid third Church, and in Honour to that Prince, [215] dedicated it to St. George. It was finiſh'd in the Year 1734, from the Revenues ariſing from the Cor⯑poration-Lands, and the Duty on Merchandize, which are eſtimated at 200l. per Ann. Theſe Churches are very handſome and capacious Buildings. That on the North of the Town has in it a fine Font of Marble, placed in the Body of the Church, ſur⯑rounded with a beautiful Iron Paliſado; the Gift of the late Mr. Heyſham, a Merchant of London, but conſiderably concerned in Trade on this Side, and for many Years Member of Parliament for Lancaſter. There is a beautiful Tower to this Church, and a new Ring of eight Bells.

The Town-houſe is a fine modern Building, ſtand⯑ing all upon Pillars of Freeſtone; the Place under it is their Tolſey, or Exchange, for the Meeting of their Merchants; but they begin to want more Room, and talk of inlarging it, or removing the Exchange to the other part of the Town, where the Ships and Merchants Buſineſs is nearer at hand.

Here is alſo a good Free-ſchool, well endow'd, and likewiſe a very noble Charity-ſchool, which was built, and is ſupported, by the generous Contributions of the Inhabitants, for 50 Boys and 12 Girls, who are maintained with Cloaths, Meat, and Lodging, and have proper Education beſtow'd upon them.

Here are alſo ſeveral Alms-houſes for the Support of Sailors Widows, and other old and indigent Peo⯑ple: and ſince the Year 1730, a Work-houſe for the Poor has alſo been erected, which, by good Ma⯑nagement, has reduc'd the Poor's Rate from two Shillings in the Pound to Ten-pence; and they made no Doubt, when I was there laſt, that in a Year or two it would be brought under Six-pence in the Pound.

It is a Corporate Town, govern'd by a Mayor and Aldermen. The Harbour is defended on the South-ſide by a Caſtle, and the Weſt by a Tower on the River Merſee.

[216]In a Word, there is no Town in England, except London, that can equal Liverpoole for the Fineneſs of the Streets, and Beauty of the Buildings. Many of the Houſes are built of Free-ſtone, and com⯑pletely finiſhed; and all the reſt (of the new Part I mean) of Brick, as handſomely built as London itſelf.

Formerly Liverpoole was but indifferently ſupply'd with freſh Water; but they have been for many Years well accommodated in that reſpect, by vir⯑tue of an Act of Parliament paſs'd for that Purpoſe, in the Eighth Year of the Reign of her late Majeſty Queen Anne.

I ſhall only add, that ſome of the Streets are named from their Relation to the Family of the Mores of Blank-hall, formerly chief Lords and Owners of the greateſt Part of Liverpoole, and who firſt began to beautify and adorn it with fine Stone Buildings.

From hence the Merſee opening into the Iriſh Sea, we could ſee the great and famous Road of Hile Lake, remarkable for the ſhipping off, or rather Rendezvous of the Army and Fleet under King Wil⯑liam, for the Conqueſt of Ireland, Anno 1689; for here the Men of War rode as our Ships do in the Downs, till the Tranſports came to them from Che⯑ſter and this Town.

Going Eaſt, we paſs'd through Preſcot, a large Market-town, but thinly inhabited; and came to Warrington.

This is a large old-built Market-town upon the River Merſee, over which is erected a ſtately Stone Bridge, which is the only Bridge of Communication for the whole County with that of Cheſter. It is on the great Road from London leading to Carliſle and Scotland, and, in caſe of War, has always been eſteemed a Paſs of the utmoſt Importance. It was found to be ſo upon ſeveral Occaſions in the Time of the late Civil War; and had the Rebel Scots ad⯑vanced thus far in the late Preſton Affair, ſo as to [217] have made themſelves Maſters of it, it would have been ſo again; and, on that Account, the King's Forces took ſpecial Care, by a ſpeedy Advance, to ſecure it.

Warrington is populous and rich, and full of good Country Tradeſmen. Here is particularly a weekly Market for Linen, as I ſaw at Wrexham in Wales a Market for Flanel. The Linen ſold at this Market, is, generally ſpeaking, a Sort of Table Linen, called Huk-a-buk. It is likewiſe noted for excellent Malt. I was told there are generally as many Pieces of this Linen ſold here every Market-day, as amount to 500l. ſometimes much more, and all made in the Neighbourhood of the Place.

Not far off is the Village of Winick, fam'd for its Rectory, worth about 800l. a Year.

From hence, on the Road to Mancheſter, we paſſed the great Bog or Waſte, called Chat-moſs, the firſt of that Kind that we ſaw in England, from any of the South Parts hither. It extends on the Left⯑ſide of the Road for five or ſix Miles Eaſt and Weſt, and they told us it was, in ſome Places, ſeven or eight Miles from North to South. There are many of theſe Moſſes in this County: take this for a Deſcription of all the reſt.

The Surface, at a Diſtance, looks black and dirty, and is indeed frightful to think of; for it will bear neither Horſe nor Man, unleſs in an exceeding dry Seaſon, and then ſo as not to be travelled over with Safety.

The Surface ſeems to be a Collection of the ſmall Roots of innumerable Vegetables matted together, interwoven ſo thick, as well the larger Roots as the ſmaller Fibres, that it makes a Subſtance hard enough to cut out into Turf or Peat, which, in ſome Places, the People pile up in the Sun, and dry for their Fuel. The Roots I ſpeak of are in general ſmall and ſoft, not unlike the Roots of Aſparagus, or of [218] Bearbind, and have no Earth among them, except what they contract from the Air, and Duſt flying in it; but the Rain keeps them, as it were, always growing, tho' not much increaſing.

In ſome Places the Surface of this is very thick, in others leſs. We ſaw it ſometimes eight or nine Feet thick, and the Water that drained from it look⯑ed clear, but of a deep brown, like ſtale Beer. What Nature meant by ſuch an uſeleſs Production, is hard to imagine; but the Land is intirely waſte, except, as above, for the poor Cottagers Fuel, and the Quantity uſed for that is very ſmall.

Under the Moſs, or rather in the very Body of it, and not here only, but in ſeveral like Places, per⯑haps in all of them, thoſe antient Fir-trees are found, which are ſo unaccountable, that much Learn⯑ing has been ſhewn to very little Purpoſe on this Subject; for after all, whatever has been ſaid, muſt be mere Conjecture and Uncertainty: but in my weak Judgment, it may be thus accounted for; That Nature, whoſe Works are all directed by a ſuperior Hand, has been guided to produce Trees here un⯑der Ground, as ſhe does in other Places above Ground: that as the Trees above the Surface grow erect and high, theſe lie prone and horizontal: thoſe ſhoot forth Branches and Leaves; theſe ſhoot forth none, yet have a Vegetation by Methods directed by Nature, and particular to that Kind; and 'tis re⯑markable, that if they lie buried, they will grow and increaſe; but if you take them up, and plant them in the Air, they will wither and die.

It is obſervable, that theſe Trees are a Kind of Fir, and are very full of Turpentine. Whether there is any Tar in them, I am not poſitive, but I ſuppoſe there is; and yet I do not ſee, that for this Reaſon they ſhould not be a natural ordinary Pro⯑duct, as other Vegetables are.

[219]As to their being brought hither by the general Convulſion of the Globe at the Deluge, the Thought is ſo repugnant to common Senſe, that I think it neither needs nor deſerves any other Notice.

From hence we came on to Mancheſter, one of the greateſt, if not really, the greateſt mere Village in England. It is neither a Town, City, nor Cor⯑poration, nor ſends Members to Parliament. The higheſt Magiſtrate is a Conſtable, or Headborough; and yet it has a Collegiate Church, takes up a large Space of Ground, and, including the Suburbs, or that Part of the Town on the other Side of the Bridge, it is ſaid to contain above 50,000 People.

The Increaſe of Buildings at Mancheſter within theſe few Years, is a Confirmation of the Increaſe of People; for here, as at Liverpoole, and as at Froom in Somerſetſhire, the Town is extended in a ſurpriſing Manner; abundance of new-built Streets are added, as alſo a new Church, dedicated to St. Anne; and they talk of founding another, and a fine new Square; by which means the Town is almoſt double to what it was ſome Years ago.

So that you have here an open Village, which is greater and more populous than many, nay, than moſt Cities in England. Neither York, Lincoln, Che⯑ſter, Saliſbury, Wincheſter, Worceſter, Glouceſter, nor Norwich itſelf, can come up to it; and for leſſer Cities, two or three put together, would not equal it, ſuch as Peterborough, Ely, and Carliſle, or ſuch as Bath, Wells, and Litchfield, and ſome others.

The Town of Mancheſter boaſts of Four extraor⯑dinary Foundations, a College, an Hoſpital, a Free⯑ſchool, and a Library, all very well ſupported.

The College was the Charity of Thomas Weſt, Lord Delaware, who being but the Cadet of the Family, was bred a Scholar, took Orders, and be⯑came Rector of the Pariſh, which he enjoyed many Years: but, by the Deceaſe of his elder Brother with⯑out [220] Heirs, ſucceeding to his Honour and Eſtate, he founded the College in the Year 1421. The Pope, in Conſideration that the Family was likely to be extinct, is ſaid to have allowed him to marry, on his performing ſo beneficial a Penance. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and the two Patron Saints of France and England, St. Denys and St. George.

This Foundation eſcaping the general Ruin, under Henry VIII. was diſſolved 1547. in the firſt Year of King Edward VI. After this, it was refounded by Queen Mary; and then anew by Queen Elizabeth, Anno 1578, by the Name of Chriſt's Church in Mancheſter; and laſt of all it was refounded by King Charles I. Anno 1636, conſiſting then of one Warden, four Fellows, two Chaplains, four Singing Men, and four Choriſters, incorporating them, as they were by Queen Elizabeth, by the Name of the Wardens and Fellows of Chriſt's Church in Man⯑cheſter, the Statutes for the ſame being drawn up by Archbiſhop Laud.

The Viſitor of this Collegiate Church is the Biſhop of Cheſter, and his late Majeſty King George I. have⯑ing made Dr. Peploe Biſhop of Cheſter, who at the ſame time was Warden of the Church, the Viſitato⯑rial Power and the Wardenſhip being incompatible, an Act paſſed Anno 1729, impowering his Majeſty to be the Viſitor, whenſoever the Warden of Mancheſter happened to be Biſhop of Cheſter.

The Hoſpital was founded by Humphrey Chetham, Eſq and incorporated by King Charles II. deſigned by the ſaid bountiful Benefactor for the Maintenance of 40 poor Boys out of the Town and Pariſh of Mancheſter, and ſome other neighbouring Pariſhes; but it is inlarged ſince to the Number of 60, by the Governors of the ſaid Hoſpital, who have improved the Revenues of it.

The ſaid Founder alſo erected a very fair and ſpacious Library, which is furniſhed with a competent Stock [221] of choice and valuable Books, and daily increaſing, with the Income of 116l. per Annum, ſettled to buy Books for ever, and to afford a competent Salary for a Library-keeper. There is alſo a large School for the Hoſpital Boys, where they are daily inſtructed, and taught to read and write.

The Publick School was founded, A. D. 1519, by Hugh Oldham, D. D. Biſhop of Exeter; and the Revenues left by him are, of late, very much in⯑creaſed, and the School has been ſuitably improved from them.

Beſides theſe publick Benefactions and Endow⯑ments, there have been ſeveral other conſiderable Sums of Money, and annual Revenues, left and be⯑queathed to the Poor of the ſaid Town, who are thereby, with the Kindneſs and Charity of the pre⯑ſent Inhabitants, competently provided for, without ſtarving at Home, or being forced to ſeek Relief Abroad.

As for the Antiquity of the Place, it is the Man⯑cunium of the Romans; and what is now called Knock⯑caſtle, was the Scite of the Roman Caſtrum; and many Antiquities have been found here. The Foun⯑dation of the Caſtle Wall and Ditch ſtill remain in Caſtlefield, as ſome time called.

The new Church I have mentioned, was finiſhed about the Year 1723, by voluntary Subſcriptions: the Choir is Alcove-faſhion, and the Pilaſters painted of Lapis Lazuli Colour. The old Church is very large, and has Three Rows of neat Pillars. They have Looms that work 24 Laces at a time, an Invention they borrow'd from the Dutch. For the Space of Three Miles upwards, they have no leſs than 60 Water-mills. The Town ſtands chiefly on a Rock, and acroſs the River, the large Town, as it may be called, is named Salthorp.

The Antiquity of the Manufacture is, indeed, worth taking notice of, which, tho' we cannot trace [222] it by Hiſtory, we have reaſon to believe began ſome⯑thing earlier than the Woollen Manufactures in other Parts of England, of which I have ſpoken ſo often; becauſe the Cotton might itſelf come from the Me⯑diterranean, and be known by Correſpondents in thoſe Counties, when that of Wool was not puſhed at, becauſe our Neighbours wrought the Goods; and tho' they bought the Wooll from England, yet we did not want the Goods: whereas, without making the Cotton Goods at Home, our People could not have them at all; and that Neceſſity, which is the Mother of Invention, might put them upon this; and without ſuch Neceſſity, Ignorance and Neceſſity prevented the other.

The River Irwell runs cloſe by Mancheſter, and receives the little River Irke juſt above on the North and North-eaſt Side. There is a very firm, but antient Stone Bridge over the Irwell, which is built exceeding high, becauſe this River, tho' not great, yet coming from the mountainous Part of the Coun⯑try, ſwells ſometimes ſo ſuddenly, that in one Night's time they told me Waters would frequently riſe Four or Five Yards, and the next Day fall as haſtily as they roſe.

About Eight Miles from Mancheſter, North-weſt, lies Bolton. We ſaw nothing remarkable in it, but that the Cotton Manufacture reached hither, tho' the Place did not, like Mancheſter, ſeem increaſing.

Here the old Earl of Derby was beheaded, Oct. 15. 1651, for proclaiming King Charles II.

As I have noted above, we turned Eaſt here, and came to Bury, a ſmall Market-town on the River Roch, which is the utmoſt Bound of the Cotton Manufacture, which flouriſhes ſo well at Mancheſter, &c. And here the Woollen Manufacture of coarſe Sorts, called Half-thicks and Kerſies, begins, which imploys this, and all the Villages about it.

[223]From thence we went to Rochdale, a Market-town of good Traffick, a larger, and more populous Town than Bury; it lies under the Hills called Blackſtone Edge; which having mentioned, at my Entrance this Way into Yorkſhire, I muſt now go back again to the Sea Coaſt; for I took my Courſe that Way up to Preſton and Lancaſter in this Jour⯑ney, having travelled thus far from Liverpoole, in my former Journey to Halifax, &c. But muſt firſt obſerve, that there are on this Eaſtern Side of the County, Northward of Rochdale, the Towns of Haſlington, Burnley and Coln, which lie juſt under the Moun⯑tains; and likewiſe Blackburn and Clithero, a little Weſt of them: all which being merely Market-towns, and of no other Note, I ſhall ſay no more of them, other than that Clithero ſtands upon the Ribble, and is the moſt conſiderable; and that at Coln and Burnley have been diſcovered a great many Roman Coins.

I take Wigan firſt, in my Way back to the Sea Coaſt: it lies on the high Poſt-road to Lancaſter. This Town has a good Market, and is noted for its Manufacture in Coverlids, Rugs, Blankets, and other Sort of Bedding Furniture; and likewiſe for Pit-coal, and Iron-work.

Between Wigan and Bolton, in the Eſtate of Sir Roger Bradſhaw, is found great Plenty of what they call Canel or Candle Coal, the like of which is not to be ſeen in Britain, or perhaps in the World. By putting a lighted Candle to them, they are pre⯑ſently in a Flame, and yet hold Fire as long as any Coals whatever, and burn more or leſs as they are placed in the Grate flat or edgewiſe. They are ſmooth and ſleek, when the Pieces part from one an⯑other, and will poliſh like Alabaſter. A Lady may take them up in a Cambrick Hankerchief, and they will not ſoil it, tho' they are as black as the deepeſt Jet. They are the moſt pleaſant and agreeable Fuel [224] that can be found; but are ſo remote from London, that the Carriage makes them too dear for common Uſe. We ſaw ſome of them at Warrington too; but all from the ſame Pits.

I muſt not paſs over the Burning Well, as it is called, near Wigan; the Account of which take in the Words of Mr. Camden's Conti⯑nuator:

Dr. Leigh, in his Natural Hiſtory of Lancaſhire, not only deſcribes it, but accounts very judiciouſly for the Thing itſelf, and by it for the Warmth of all hot Baths.

On the ſame Road, a little South, ſtands Newton, which had once a Market, but is now difuſed. It is only noted for a very eminent Charity-ſchool, founded in 1707, by one Hornby, a Yeoman of the ſame Place. The poorer Sort of Children are taught to read, write, and caſt Accounts, and have Dinners every School-day beſides. There are alſo Ten Boys and Ten Girls, who lodge in an Hoſpital contiguous to the School, where they are provided with all other Neceſſaries till 14 Years old. The Fund for this [225] Charity was 2000l. A large Sum for a Yeoman to give!

From hence we paſſed to Ormſkirk Weſt, towards the Sea-coaſt. It is a Market-town that has a good Inland-trade; but we ſaw nothing remarkable here, but the Monuments of ſome of the antient Family of the Stanleys, before they were ennobled. And here they ſtill continue to bury the Family, whoſe Seat is called Latham, not far from this Town; to which belongs a very large Eſtate, and a fine Park. La⯑tham Houſe is noted for having been gallantly de⯑fended in the late Civil Wars by a Woman, the Lady Charlotte, Counteſs of Derby, who held it to the laſt Extremity againſt the Parliament Forces, which could never reduce her to capitulate; but kept the Place gloriouſly, till ſhe was relieved by Prince Ru⯑pert. It was, however, ruined in a ſecond Siege, and is now ſold out of the Family, and in Poſſeſſion of Thomas Bootle, Eſq who is building a magnifi⯑cent Houſe there.

Fernby, a Village, lies near the Sea-ſide, in the marſhy Grounds, where they dig Turf, that ſerves both for Fire and Candle. Theſe marſhy Grounds extend a great Way North up, beyond Eccleſton, and almoſt up to Preſton. On the Edge of it Eaſtward is Marton Mere, which has been very large; but much of it is now drained.

Eccleſton is a Market-town, where nothing remark⯑able is to be ſeen: Nor at Charley, a Town of the ſame Kind; which lies a little North-eaſt of it.

Preſton ſtands next, a corporate Mayor Town, having Three weekly Markets, well ſupplied and fre⯑quented. It is a large fine Town, ſituated on the Ribble: it is pretty full of People, but not like Li⯑verpoole or Mancheſter; for we now come beyond the trading Part of the County. But tho' there is no Manufacture, the Town being honoured with the Court of Chancery, and the Officers of Juſtices for [226] Lancaſter, is full of Gentlemen, Attorneys, Proctors, and Notaries, the Proceſs of Law being here of a different Nature from that in other Places, by reaſon that it is a Duchy and County Palatine, and has particular Privileges of its own. The People are gay here, tho' not perhaps the richer for that; but it has, on this Account, obtained the Name of Proud Preſton. Here is a great deal of good Company, but not ſo much, they ſay, as was before the late bloody Action with the Northern Rebels; not that the Battle hurt many of the immediate Inhabitants, but the Conſe⯑quences of it ſo ſeverely affected many Families there⯑about, that they ſtill retain the Remembrance of it.

Not far from Preſton is Ribcheſter, ſuppoſed to be the Bretonomacum of the Antients; a Town which in its flouriſhing State was ſaid to be the richeſt in Chriſtendom. So many Pieces of Antiquity have been dug up in its Neighbourhood, that it was moſt probably a Place of great Importance among the an⯑tient Romans.

Between the Ribble, and a little River ſome Miles South of Lancaſter, the Land elbows out, in the Form of a Semi-circle, into the Sea; and this Tract they call the Field-lands, in which is a ſmall Market-town, called Kirkham; only remarkable for a good Free-ſchool which has Three Maſters.

Poulton is another Market-town in the ſame Tract, very convenient in its Situation for Trade, being near the Mouth of the River Wire. We followed the Poſt⯑road, and paſſed through Garſtang, which ſtands upon it, about Midway between Preſton and Lancaſter, and is of no other Note than having a Market; and ſo leaving Wiredale Foreſt on our Right, we ar⯑rived at

Lancaſter, the County Town, ſituate near the Mouth of the River Lone, or Lune. The Town is antient, and has little elſe to recommend it than that, and to have given Title to many Branches of [227] the Royal Family of England. It has a decayed Caſtle, and a more decayed Port, not capable of re⯑ceiving Ships of any conſiderable Burden. The Bridge has Five Arches, and is handſome and ſtrong; but here is little or no Trade, and few People. It ſur⯑priſed me to hear, that there are not above 60 Pariſhes in all this large County; but many of them are con⯑ſequently very large, and there are above 120 Chapels of Eaſe, no leſs than 16 of which are in one Pariſh.

The Caſtle of Lancaſter is now the County Gaol, and the Aſſizes are held in it. The Town has only one Pariſh Church, which is fair and ſpacious.

It is governed by a Mayor, &c. to whom Edw. III. granted the Privilege, That Pleas and Seſſions in the County ſhould be held no-where but at Lancaſter. It is the Longovicum of the Romans, who have had a Station here. On the ſteepeſt Side of the Hill below the Church hangs a Piece of a Roman Wall called Wery-wall, derived, as Camden thinks, from the Britiſh Word Caerwirdd, a green City, from the Verdure of the Hills.

As we came along the Sea-ſide, we obſerved a Kind of ſtrange Crows, whoſe Bodies are blue, and Heads and Wings black.

Not far from Lancaſter, at the Foot of a high Hill called Warton Crag, (on the Top of which is a Beacon) ſtands an agreeable little obſcure Town named Warton, upon the Side of a Lake, where is a good Grammar-ſchool, with Accommodations, and a Library for the Benefit of the Maſters; which, together with an Hoſpital for Six poor Men, was founded and endowed by Dr. Hutton, then Biſhop of Durham, in 1594, who was afterwards tranſlated to York; which certainly muſt have been then a Biſhoprick of very great Value, to have induced him to quit Durham for it, notwithſtanding its being an Archbiſhoprick, and the Title of Grace annexed to its Prelate. Here is alſo a very neat-built Church.

[228]Higher up North, towards the Extremity of the County, next Weſtmorland, is Hornby Caſtle, upon the River L [...]n; which is an excellent Building, the Seat of the Lords of Monteagle, a Branch of the Stanleys, and ſince of the Parkers, one of whom, marrying into that Family, had, in King James I.'s Time, the ſame Title conferr'd on him; and 'twas this Nobleman who diſcover'd the Pow⯑der-plot.

This Part of the Country ſeemed very ſtrange and diſmal to us, after coming from the South-ſide, which is ſo rich and fertile, that it is noted for ſhew⯑ing the largeſt Breed of Cows and Oxen in the Kingdom, whoſe Bulk, as well as Horns, are of ſuch a Magnitude as is very aſtoniſhing; beſides their fine ſpotted Deer, which are ſaid to be peculiar to that Part of the County.

Here, among the Mountains, our Curioſity was frequently moved to inquire what high Hill this was, or that; and we ſoon were ſaluted with that old Verſe in Camden,

Indeed they were all, in my Judgment, of a ſtupen⯑dous Height; but in a Country all mountainous and full of high Hills, it was not eaſy for a Traveller to judge which was higheſt.

As theſe Hills were lofty, ſo they had an Aſpect of Terror. Here were no rich pleaſant Valleys between them, as among the Alps; no Lead Mines and Veins of rich Ore, as in the Peak; no Coal-pits, as in the Hills about Halifax; but all barren and wild, and of no Uſe either to Man or Beaſt. Indeed here were formerly, as far back as the Time of Queen Elizabeth, ſome Copper Mines, and they wrought them to good Advantage; but whether the Vein of Ore failed, or what elſe was the Reaſon, [229] we know not, but they are all given over long ſince, and this Part of the Country yields little or nothing at all.

Weſt of Hornby Caſtle is a conſiderable Tract of Ground, which is Part of this County, and runs North, parallel with the Weſt-ſide of Weſtmorland, and the Weſt-ſide of Cumberland, and on the South it runs out in a Promontory into the Sea; it is called Fourneſs. We paſſed over the Sands into it, which are very dangerous, and unpaſſable without Guides, who are kept here for that Purpoſe, at the Ex⯑pence of the Government. It contains, beſides Villages, Four Market-towns, called Cartmel, Dal⯑ton, Ulverſton, and Howkſhead, but are of no great Note. It is very mountainous, and full of Lakes or Meres; the largeſt is Winander Mere, which makes the utmoſt Northern Bound of this Tract of Ground, as of this Shire. It is famous for producing the Char-fiſh, ſeldom found, unleſs it be at Ulles-water, bordering on Weſtmorland, and in North-Wales, as I have mention'd before. It is a curious Fiſh, and, as a Dainty, is potted, and ſent far and near by way of Preſent. It muſt needs be a great Rarity, ſince the Quantity they take, even here, is but ſmall. Mr. Camden's Continuator calls it very happily the Golden Alpine Trout. This Mere is 18 Miles in Circumference, 10 in Length, and Two in Diameter, and the Bottom is paved, as it were, with one continued Rock.

Lancaſhire, as has been ſaid, is a County Palatine; and was wont to give Title of Duke to a Branch of the Royal Family; and till the Two Roſes, the White and Red, were united in the Marriage of Henry VII. of the Lancaſter Line, with Elizabeth, Heireſs of the Houſe of York, theſe Two Branches of the Royal Family, by their different Pretenſions to the Crown, gave Occaſion to the Wars and Confuſions, which for many Years made England a Scene of [230] Blood and Deſolation. Three ſucceſſive Princes, Hen. IV. V. and VI. were of the Lancaſter Line; and the latter loſt his Crown and Life, as did his princely Son, to Edward IV. of the Houſe of York, whoſe Two Sons being murder'd by their Uncle Richard III. and he himſelf killed at Boſworth-field, the Lancaſter Line was again reſtored in Henry VII. who married the Heireſs of the Houſe of York, as has been ſaid.

Lancaſhire Witches are ſo much a Phraſe, that I have reſerved to this Place, to mention, that an Act paſſed the 9th of his preſent Majeſty, King George II. to reſcue thoſe poor old Creatures, who, by the Igno⯑rance and Superſtition of the ruſtick Rabble, were ſtyled Witches, from the Terror of the Laws, which tho' in ſome ſort looked upon as obſolete, were nevertheleſs in Force againſt them, and had given too much Occaſion (till within theſe few Years paſt, that the Tryal and Acquittal of Jane Wenman, as I have mentioned in p. 185. Vol. II. diſcouraged the wild Fury and ſuperſtitious Ignorance of the Vulgar) for perſecuting poor Wretches, whoſe Age and Infirm⯑ities, as well as miſerable Poverty, were enough, one would have thought, to intitle them to Pity, rather than to the barbarous Uſage they were wont to meet with.

This Act repeals the Statute made in the Firſt Year of the Reign of that Witch-making Prince^*, King James I. (who ſhew'd himſelf no more in this, than in other Actions of his Life, a Conjurer) intitled, An Act againſt Conjuration, Witchcraft, and dealing with evil and wicked Spirits; and alſo repeals an Act of the Parliament of Scotland, Anents Witchcrafts, &c.

And here we may be allowed to give a Caution to many of our fair Readers, as well as to the lower Claſs of Fortune-caſters, by Coffee-grounds, &c. For by this Act, Perſons pretending to tell Fortunes, [231] and to diſcover loſt or ſtollen Goods, by virtue of any occult Art or Science, ſhall be impriſoned a Year; and once every Quarter of that Year, be pillory'd; and oblig'd to find Security for their good Behaviour, at the Pleaſure of the Court in which Conviction ſhall paſs. And here let me be further indulged to obſerve, that certain married Ladies, who may incur the Penalty of this Act, may be ſtill worſe off than Maidens, becauſe perhaps their Huſ⯑bands can, the leaſt of all others, be expected to be bound for their requiſite good Behaviour.

I now enter'd Weſtmorland, a County eminent only for being the wildeſt, moſt barren, and fright⯑ful of any that I have paſſed over in England, or in Wales. The Weſt Side, which borders on Cumber⯑land, is indeed bounded by a Chain of almoſt un⯑paſſable Mountains, which, in the Language of the Country, are called Fells, and theſe are called Fourneſs Fells, from the Promontory which I juſt mentioned, and an Abbey built alſo in antient Times, called Fourneſs. The whole County is divided into the Barony of Kendal, which is very mountainous, and in the Dioceſe of Cheſter; and the Barony of Weſtmorland, a large champaign Country, in the Dioceſe of Carliſle.

It muſt be owned, however, that here are ſome very pleaſant manufacturing Towns, and conſe⯑quently populous.

The Manufacture in which the People are im⯑ployed, are chiefly Woollen Cloths, eſpecially at Kirkby-Lonſdale, and Kendal.

Kendal is a rich and populous Town, has a Free-ſchool well endow'd, and drives a great Trade in Woollen Cloth, Cottons, Druggets, Serges, Hats, and Stockens.

Over the River Ken, whereon Kendal ſtands, are Two Bridges of Stone, and another of Wood. At [232] ſome ſmall Diſtance from the laſt, are to be ſeen the Ruins of a Caſtle; which was the Birth-place of Catharine Parr, the Sixth Wife of Henry VIII. The Church is fair and ſpacious, and there are Two Chapels of Eaſe to it. Near the Church-yard ſtands a fair publick School, whence a certain Number of Scholars are elected to Queen's-college, Oxon. It gives Title of Ducheſs to Erengard Schulemberg, a Lady of prime Conſequence in the Reign of King George I.

Lonſdale or Kirkby-Lonſdale, is a large Town, has a fair Church, Stone Bridge, and a good Trade for Cloth; and gives Title of Viſcount to the noble Family of Louther.

The Upper, or Northern Part of the County, has Two manufacturing Towns, called Kirkby-Stephen, and Appleby; the laſt is the Capital of the County, has a Free-ſchool and Hoſpital, and is the only Town in the County that ſends Members to Par⯑liament. A great Manufacture of Yarn Stockens is carried on at Kirkby-Stephen.

My Lord Lonſdale, of the Family of Louther, had a very noble and antient Seat at Louther, and upon the River Louther, which all together add a Dignity to the Family, and are Teſts of its Antiquity. The Houſe was beautiful, but the Stables were the Wonder of England, being eſteemed the largeſt and fineſt that any Nobleman or Gentleman in Britain is Maſter of: and his Lordſhip breeds as good Running Horſes, and Hunters, as moſt in England. But the Houſe was of late unfortunately burnt down, and all its fine Pictures and Furniture conſumed, and is not yet rebuilt.

Near the River Louther is a Spring, which ebbs and flows ſeveral times in a Day.

In this County the noble Family of Wharton had their Seat in a Place of the ſame Name.

When we enter'd at the South Part of this County, I began indeed to think of Merionethſhire, and the [233] Mountains of Snowden in North Wales, ſeeing nothing round me, in many Places, but unpaſſable Hills, whoſe Tops, covered with Snow, ſeemed to tell us, all the pleaſant Part of England was at an End. The great Winander Mere, extending itſelf like a Sea, on the Weſt Side, from North Bridge on the South, where it contracts itſelf again into a River, up to Greſemere North, and is the Boundary of the County, as I have ſaid, on that Side; and the Engliſh Apen⯑nines, as Mr. Camden calls the Mountains of York⯑ſhire North-riding, lie like a Wall of Braſs on the other; and indeed in the moſt literal Senſe they are ſo: for it is the Opinion of the moſt ſkilful and knowing People in the County, that they are full of inexhauſtible Mines of Copper, which is convertible into Braſs, and a Quantity of Gold in them alſo: nay, of late Years, they worked at ſome Copper Mines here; but the Ore lies ſo deep, and is ſo hard to come at, that they did not ſeem to go chearfully on.

But notwithſtanding the terrible Aſpect of the Hills, when we had paſſed by Kendal, and deſcended from the frightful Mountains, the flat Country began to ſhew itſelf; and we ſoon found the North and North⯑eaſt Part of the County to be pleaſant, rich, fruitful, and, if compared to the other Part, may be ſaid to be populous. The River Eden, the laſt River of England on this Side, as the Tyne is on the other, riſes in this Part out of the Side of a prodigious high Mountain, called Mowill Hill, or Wildbore Fell, which you pleaſe; after which, it runs thro' the Middle of this Vale, which, as I ſaid before, is a very agreeable and pleaſant Country, or, perhaps, ſeems to be ſo the more, in Compariſon with the horrid Height and Narrowneſs of the Eaſtern and Southern Parts. An Act paſſed ſome Years ago to make this River navigable, in which the neighbouring Country find great Advantage.

[234]In the Vale, and on the Bank of this River, ſtands Appleby, or Apulby, the Abalaba of the Antients, once a flouriſhing City, now a ſcattering, decayed, and half-demoliſhed Town, the fatal Effects of the antient Inroads of the Scots, who uſed to make fre⯑quent Incurſions on this County, and became ſeveral times Maſters of this Town, and at length burnt it to the Ground; a Blow it has not yet recovered.

There are not many Seats of the Nobility in this Part, tho' ſeveral antient Families receive their Names from hence, as Strickland from the Lands of Strickland, Wharton (now extinct) from Wharton-hall, Louther from the River Louther, Warcop of Warcop, Langdale of Langdale, Muſgrave from Muſgrave, &c.

The Roman Highway, which I have ſo often men⯑tioned, and which, in my laſt Letter, I left at Leem⯑ing-lane and Peers-bridge in the North-riding of York, enters this County from Rear-croſs, or Ree-croſs, upon Stanmore, and croſſing it almoſt due Eaſt and Weſt, goes through Appleby, paſſing the Eden a little North from Perith, at an antient Roman Station called Brovoniacum, where was a large and ſtately Stone Bridge; but now the great Road leads to the Left-hand to Perith; in going to which, we firſt paſs the Eden at a very good Stone Bridge, called Louther Bridge, and then the Elnot over another.

Perith, or Penrith, called by the Romans Ver⯑terae, is a handſome Market-town, populous and well-built, and, for an Inland Town, has a very good Share of Trade. It was unhappily poſſeſſed by the late Party of Scots Highland Rebels, when they made that deſperate Puſh into England, which ended at Preſton. In the Moor, or Heath, on the North Part of this Town, the Militia of the County, making a brave Appearance, and infinitely out⯑numbering the Highlanders, were drawn up; yet, with their uſual Bravery, they ran away as ſoon as the Scots began to advance to charge them, and never [235] fired a Gun, leaving the Town at their Mercy. How⯑ever, to do Juſtice to the Rebels, they offered no In⯑jury to the Town, only quartered in it one Night, took what Arms and Ammunition they could find, and advanced towards Kendal.

In Weſtmorland, not far from the River Louther, is a Row of Pyramidal Stones, Eight or Nine Feet high, pitch'd directly in a Row for a Mile together, and placed at equal Diſtances from each other.

From hence, in one Stage, thro' a Country full of Caſtles, (for almoſt every Gentleman's Houſe is a Caſtle) we came to Carliſle, a ſmall, but well forti⯑fied City, the Frontier Place and Key of England on the Weſt Sea, as Berwick upon Tweed is on the Eaſt; in both which there have been, for many Years, I might ſay Ages, ſtrong Gariſons kept to check the invading Scots. From below this Town the famous Picts Wall began, which croſſed the whole Iſland to Newcaſtle upon Tyne, which was built upon the fol⯑lowing Occaſion:

When the Romans ſettled here by Force of Arms, they were always haraſs'd by the Picts, on the Side of Scotland. To ſtop their Inroads, the Emperor Adrian cauſed a Wall of Earth to be built, ex⯑tending from the German to the Iriſh Sea, the Space of 80 Miles, or 27 French Leagues, and cauſed it to be paliſado'd, Anno 123. Severus, the Emperor, built it up of Stone, with Turrets from Mile to Mile, and kept a Gariſon therein. But the Picts, never⯑theleſs, broke in thro' this Wall more than once. At laſt, Aetius, a Roman General, rebuilt it of Brick, in 430; but 'twas not long before it was pulled down by the Picts. It was Eight Feet thick, and 12 Feet high from the Ground: ſome Part of it is ſtill to be ſeen, both in Northumberland and Cumberland.

Here alſo the great Roman Highway, juſt before named, has its End, this being the utmoſt Station of the Roman Soldiers on this Side.

[236]But before I go on to ſpeak of Carliſle, I muſt return to the Sea Coaſt, which, in this Northern County, is more remarkable than that of Lancaſhire, tho' the other is extended much farther in length; for here are ſome Towns of good Trade: whereas in Lancaſhire, Liverpoole excepted, there is nothing of Trade to be ſeen upon the Coaſt.

The firſt Place I ſhall mention is Ravenglaſs, in the South End of the County, which runs between Fourneſs and the Sea. 'Tis a well-built Sea Port, and Market-town, upon the River Eſk, and on each Side of it run down to the Sea two other ſmall Rivers, which, together with the Sea, make a good Harbour for Ships, and ſurrounds three Parts of the Town, which occaſions a pretty good Trade to it.

The Cape or Head-land of St. Bees (deriv'd from St. Bega, an Iriſh Female Saint) ſtill preſerves its Name.

In the Town is a very good Free-ſchool, found⯑ed by Archbiſhop Grindal, who was born here. It was very well endowed by him, and the Charity much increaſed by the late Dr. Lamplugh, Arch⯑biſhop of York, Dr. Smith, Biſhop of Carliſle, Sir John Louther, and others.

The Library annexed to this Foundation is very valuable, and ſtill increaſing by ſeveral Gifts daily added to it. Tho' the Pariſh is vaſtly large, the Vi⯑carage is very poorly endowed.

Near St. Bees ſtands a little Market-town, call'd Egremont, noted only for its antient Caſtle and Ba⯑rons, and for loſing their Privilege of returning Members.

Under this Shore, higher up North, and near the Cape, is the Town of Whitehaven, grown up by the Encouragement of the Louther Family, from a ſmall Place, to be very conſiderable by the Coal Trade, which is ſo much increaſed of late, that it is the moſt eminent Port in England for it, next Newcaſtle; [237] for the City of Dublin, and all the Towns of Ire⯑land on that Coaſt, and ſome Parts of Scotland, and the Iſle of Man, are wholly ſupply'd from hence. 'Tis frequent in time of War, or upon Occaſion of croſs Winds, to have 200 Sail of Ships at a time go from this Place to Dublin loaden with Coals. And Sir James Louther, particularly, is ſaid to ſend from hence to Ireland annually, as many Coals as bring him in near 20,000l. a Year.

This Increaſe of Shipping has led them on to Mer⯑chandizing; but the Town is but of few Years ſtanding in Trade: for Mr. Camden does not ſo much as name the Place, and his Continuator ſays very little of it.

And indeed the Town muſt be allow'd to owe principally its flouriſhing Condition to Two Acts of Parliament, one of the 7th, the other of the 11th of Queen Anne, by virtue of which the Harbour was ſo conſiderably deepened and improved, and ſuch ſtrong and ſubſtantial Moles and Bulwarks erected, that Ships, which before were liable to be driven and caſt away on the Rocks and Shoals on that Coaſt, could lie in Safety, and be ſecure from the Vio⯑lence of the Sea. The happy Succeſs of theſe Works encourag'd the Town to apply to Parliament for Powers ſtill farther to improve the good Deſign, that ſo, by inlarging the Moles and Works, and extending them to Low-water Mark, ſuch Depth might be obtained, that the largeſt Ships belonging to the Town might ſail in and out of the Harbour at Neap Tides, and that other Ships frequenting theſe Seas, might ſail in at Half-flood. And accordingly an Act paſſed for this laudable Purpoſe, in the Self. 1739-40, which will prebably effectuate theſe good Ends, and not only preſerve the Lives of many Mariners, but ſtill further improve the Trade and Navigation of this already flouriſhing Town. The ſame Act pro⯑vides likewiſe for the Repair of the Roads about and [238] leading to Whitehaven, which were become ruinous and bad, by the great Uſe made of them ſince the Improvements made in the Harbour; for before that they were very narrow, and ſeldom made uſe of by Carts and Wheel-carriages. All theſe Advantages and Increaſe of Trade have occaſion'd a new Church to be lately built at Whitehaven. Here is likewiſe a good Trade for Salt.

Still a little higher to the North is Moreſby, where 'tis ſuppoſed has been a Roman Fort, there appearing a great many Ruins of Fortifications along the Sea Coaſt, and other Antiquities.

About ten Miles North-eaſt from Whitehaven lies Cockermouth, between two Hills, upon the little River Cocker, juſt where it falls into the Derwent; and is almoſt incompaſſed by the Two Rivers. The former runs thro' it, and is joined again by Two Bridges. It is a Town of good Trade, and well-built. It has a Caſtle on one Hill, and a fair Church on the other. It is about 12 Miles from the Sea, and Veſſels of good Burden may ſecurely come up to it. The Derwent is famous for its ſpringing out of thoſe Hills called Derwent Fells, where the an⯑tient Copper Mines were found in Queen Elizabeth's Time, and in which, it was ſaid, there was a large Quantity of Gold. But they are diſcontinued ſince, ſome ſay, becauſe Gold being found among the Ore, the Queen claimed the Royalty, and ſo nobody would work them: but this is rather a Reaſon why they ſhould have applied to the Search with more Vigour; therefore the more probable Cauſe is, that the Charge of working them was too great for the Profits.

A little Eaſt of Cockermouth ſtands Keſwick, a lit⯑tle Market-town, in Decay, inhabited chiefly by Miners, who have their Smelting-houſes here, there being near this Place Mines of Black-lead, which turn to very good Account, and I think are the only Mines of the kind in Britain.

[239]Here we ſaw Skiddaw, which is there reported to be the higheſt Hill in England. It ſeems the higher, becauſe it is not ſurrounded with other Mountains, like moſt of other Counties, as at Cheviot, Penigent, and other Places. From the Top of Skiddaw one ſees plainly into Scotland, and quite into Dumfries⯑ſhire, and farther.

The Duke of Somerſet is chief Lord of Cocker⯑mouth, in Right of his late Ducheſs, the only Heireſs of the antient Family of the Piercies, Earls of Nor⯑thumberland.

The Caſtles and great Houſes of this Eſtate fall to Ruin, as indeed all the Caſtles in this County do; for the two Kingdoms being now united into one, ſtrong Holds are of no more Uſe here, than in any other Part of the Kingdom. I think they told us, the Duke has no leſs than 13 Caſtles in this County, and in Northumberland.

This Derwent is noted for Trout, and alſo for very good Salmon; which from Workington, a Fiſhing-town at the Mouth of this River, they carry, freſh as they take them, up to London, upon Horſes, which, changing often, go Night and Day without Inter⯑miſſion, and, as they ſay, out-go the Poſt; ſo that the Fiſh come very ſweet and good to London, where the extraordinary Price they yield, from two Shil⯑lings and Sixpence to four Shillings per Pound, pays very well for the Carriage. They do the ſame from Carliſle.

Jerby, now a conſiderable Market-town, ſtands North-eaſt of Cockermouth. It is ſuppoſed to be the Arbeia of the Antients.

From the Mouth of the Derwent to that of the Elen is ſuppoſed to have been fortified by the Ro⯑mans, to prevent the Landing of the Scots and Iriſh, who infeſted theſe Coaſts; for here have been ſeveral Ruins of Fortifications diſcovered, and ſome of them ſince Camden's Time. At Elenborough, 'tis ſaid, the [240] firſt Cohort of Dalmatians were gariſon'd, where are great Remains of them ſtill to be ſeen, old Vaults open'd, Altars, Stones, and Statues, with Inſcriptions dug up, on them. And at Wigton, a ſmall Market-town, further North in the Foreſt of Allerdale, are ſeveral Altars pitch'd, which they ſay were brought from Elenborough, and old Carliſle. But if I was to dwell upon Antiquities, I ſhould find Work enough in this County; and therefore muſt refer you to ſuch Writers as have treated of them.

In Whitfield Park, at the Borders of this County, they ſhew you a Hawthorn Tree, againſt which the Heads of a Stag and a Dog were formerly nailed up, in Memory of a famous Chace. It ſeems the Dog (not a Greyhound, as Mr. Camden's Continua⯑tor calls it, but a ſtanch Buckhound) ſingly chaſed a Stag from this Park, as far as the Red Kirk in Scotland, which, they ſay, is ſixty Miles at leaſt, and back again to the ſame Place; where, being both ſpent, the Stag, exerting his laſt Force, leap'd the Park Pales, and died on the Inſide; the Hound, attempt⯑ing to leap after him, had not Strength enough to get over, and fell back, and died on the Outſide juſt oppoſite. The Heads of both were nailed upon the Tree, and underneath this Diſtich on them. The Hound's Name, it ſeems, was Hercules:

In the ſame Park were three Oak Trees, which were called the Three Brether, the leaſt of which was 13 Yards about; but two of them being quite gone, and only the Stump of the other remaining, I did not think it worth my Time to viſit ſuch a decayed Curioſity.

Weſt of the Hawthorn Tree, and upon the old Roman Way, is the famous Column, called the Coun⯑teſs Pillar, the beſt and moſt beautiful Piece of its [241] Kind in Britain. It is a fine Column of Free-ſtone, curiouſly wrought and enchas'd, and in ſome Places painted. It has an Obeliſk on the Top, ſeveral Coats of Arms, and other Ornaments in proper Places all over it, with Dials alſo on every Side, and a Braſs Plate with the following Inſcription, in Capital Letters.‘This Pillar was erected Anno 1656, by the Right Honourable ANNE Counteſs Dowager of Pem⯑broke, and ſole Heir of the Right Honourable George Earl of Cumberland, &c. for a Memo⯑rial of her laſt parting in this Place with her good and pious Mother, the Right Honourable Mar⯑garet Counteſs Dowager of Cumberland, the Se⯑cond of April 1616: in Memory whereof ſhe alſo left an Annuity of Four Pounds, to be diſtributed to the Poor within this Pariſh of Brougham, every Second Day of April for ever, upon the Stone Table here by.’

This Counteſs of Pembroke had a noble and great Eſtate in this County, and a great many fine old Seats, all which ſhe repaired and beautified, and dwelt ſometimes at one, and ſometimes at another, for the Benefit of her Tenants, and of the Poor, whom ſhe always made deſirous of her Preſence, conſtantly relieving them by her Bounty and Hoſpi⯑tality. But thoſe Eſtates are ſince that Time gone into other Families, particularly into that of the Earl of Thanet, who has great Eſtates in Weſtmor⯑land.

This Lady was of the Family of Clifford; ſhe had no leſs than Four Caſtles in this County, of which Pendragon Caſtle was the chief, which is a fine Build⯑ing to this Day.

Penrith is accounted the ſecond Town in the County for Wealth and Trade. It is large and well-built, has a very good Market for all Sorts of [242] Commodities and Beaſts. The Market-houſe is con⯑venient and ſpacious, the Church is large and noble; the Weſt-ſide was defended with a Royal Caſtle, tho' now in Ruins. In the Church-yard we ſaw Two Pillars 14 or 15 Feet aſunder, and the loweſt of them 12 Feet high, tho' they ſeem equal. The People told us, that they were the Monument of Sir Owen Caeſar; but there is no Inſcription upon them. This Sir Owen, they tell us, was a Cham⯑pion of mighty Strength, and of gigantick Stature; and ſo he was, to be ſure, if, as they ſay, he was as tall as one of the Columns, and could touch both Pillars with his Hands at the ſame time. They re⯑late no other great Actions of him, but that he killed Robbers, and deſtroyed wild Boars.

On the North-ſide of the Veſtry of this Church is erected in the Wall an antient ſquare Stone, with a Memorial, intimating, that in the Year 1598, there was a dreadful Plague in thoſe Parts, in which there died in Kendal 2500 Perſons; in Penrith 2266; in Richmond 2200; in Carliſle 1196.

By this Account it ſhould ſeem, that every one of thoſe Towns had ſeparately more People than the City of Carliſle, or elſe the Diſtemper was not ſo peſtilential there; and that Kendal, which is the only manufacturing Town of them, was the moſt popu⯑lous.

We did not go into the Grotto on the Bank of the River Eden, of which mention is made by Cam⯑den's Continuator, the People informing us, that the Paſſage was blocked up with Earth; ſo I muſt be content with telling you, that it ſeems to have been a Lurking-place for Robbers, in old Time. A Place of Strength it could not be; for its Security ſeems to have conſiſted ſolely in its Secrecy. It had certainly been worth ſeeing, had it been paſſable. The Entry is long and dark, but whether ſtrait or crooked, I cannot ſay. The Iron Gates leading to [243] it are gone, nor is there any Sign of them, or what they were hung to.

Higher up on the Eden, the Eaſt-ſide of the County, is Kirk-Oſwald, an indifferent Market-town, that has nothing of Note; and Brampton ſtands N. E. of Carliſle, on the River Itching, about a Mile beyond the Picts Wall, which has likewiſe nothing worth remarking, ſaving an Hoſpital built by the Lady Carliſle, Grandmother to the preſent Earl, for Six poor Men, and as many Women.

At Burgh upon the Sands, a little Diſtance from Carliſle, is the Monument of our victorious Prince Edward I. who having ſo far ſubdued the Scots, as to bring away the ſacred Stone at Scone Abbey, whereon their Kings uſed to be crowned, died here in his Camp, on his March againſt them, like a true Sol⯑dier, guarding his Frontiers with his lateſt Breath. In Memory of him there was afterwards erected a fair ſquare Pillar nine Yards and a half high, with theſe Inſcriptions on Three Sides.

On the Weſt Side: ‘Memoriae aeternae EDVARDI I. Regis Angliae longe clariſſimi, qui in belli apparatu contra Scotos occupatus, hic in caſtris obiit 7. Julii A. D. 1 [...]07.’ On the South Side: ‘Nobiliſſimus Princeps HENRICUS HOWARD, dux Norfolciae, comes Mareſchal. Angliae, comes Arund. &c. . . . . . ab EDVARDO I. Rege Angliae oriundus, P. 1685.’ On the North Side: ‘JOHANNES AGLIONBY, J. C. F.’ Beneath, ‘THO. LANGSTONE fecit, 1685.’

[244] Caerliſle, the Lugo-vallum, or rather Brovoniacum of the Romans, is ſituated exceedingly pleaſant by the Picts Wall, and guarded by Three Rivers; by the Eden on the North, by the Peterel on the Eaſt, and on the Weſt by the Caude. It is a Place of great Antiquity, being firſt builtby an antient Britiſh Prince named Luel, and from him called Caer Luel, i. e. Luel's Town, to which it retains an Affinity of Sound to this Day. It has ſuffer'd the Fate of moſt Frontier Towns; been taken, retaken, burnt, and deſtroyed ſeveral times by the Scots, Danes, and Norwegians; and lay once in its Ruins for near 200 Years, till William Rufus rebuilt it, who ſent a Colony of Southern Engliſhmen to it, and who is ſaid likewiſe to have built the Caſtle. Henry I. dig⯑nified it with an Epiſcopal See, and fortified it as a proper Barrier againſt the Scots.

The Cathedral Church is a venerable old Pile, but ſeems to have been built at Two different times, or, as it were, rebuilt, the upper Part being much more modern than the lower. A great Part of it was built by St. David, King of Scotland, who held this County, together with Weſtmorland and Nor⯑thumberland, in Vaſſalage from the Crown of Eng⯑land. He, and many of his Succeſſors, were great Benefactors to it, and nominated ſeveral of the Bi⯑ſhops; but almoſt the whole Nave, or Weſt Part of it, was demoliſhed by the Scots, in the Civil Wars. There is another Church called St. Cuthbert's.

King Henry VIII. fortified this City againſt the Scots, and built an additional Caſtle to it on the Eaſt Side, which Camden calls a Citadel. On the North⯑weſt is a Gariſon. The City has Three Gates, and the Walls round it are ſo thick, that Three Men may walk abreaſt on them, within the Parapet. Over the Eden is a Bridge which ſoon lets you into Scotland, the Limits not being above Six Miles off; for the South Part of it on this Side comes at leaſt 50 Miles farther into England than at Berwick.

[245] Carliſle is a wealthy and populous Place, and the Houſes are well-built, but it is not very large. Here flouriſhes a good Trade in Fuſtians.

I made a Trip, when I was in theſe Parts, to Parton, in this County, which I the rather mention becauſe of the Improvements made in its Harbour of late Years, by virtue of Acts of Parliament made for that Purpoſe.

For in the fourth and fifth of the late Queen Anne, an Act had paſſed for inlarging the Piers and Harbour of that Town; but by the Negligence or Death of Truſtees, the Works intended by the Act, were not carried to Effect. This proving a great Diſappointment to the Inhabitants, who had built Houſes on a Pro⯑ſpect of a conſiderable Trade in Exportation of Coals, and other Commodities of the County; in the Year 1724, another Act paſſed for Rebuilding the ſaid Piers and Harbour. In Conſequence of this Act, the Pier was rebuilt, and the Harbour made capable of receiving ſeveral ſmall Ships, and a Trade for Coals to Ireland and other Parts commenced. This gave Encouragement for another Act, which paſſed Anno 1732, to inlarge the Term for 21 Years after the Expiration of the former, in order to make the Har⯑bour ſtill more complete, for the Reception of Ships of greater Burden, and to inlarge the River, cleanſe the Harbour, and to bring into it a ſmall Brook, called Mareſby-beck, which runs near it. All which will be of great Uſe to the Place, as well as to Trade and Navigation in general.

In this Northern County are more noted Roman Antiquities found, than almoſt in any other. It has a Lake called Ulles-water, noted for producing the excellent Fiſh called Char, almoſt peculiar to it, and to Winander-mere. Wry-noſe, one of its higheſt Hills, is remarkable for its Three Shire Stones, a Foot Diſtance each, one in Cumberland, one in Weſt⯑morland, and the third in Lancaſhire.

[246]Near Salkeld in this County is a Trophy erected, vulgarly call'd Long Meg and her Daughters, con⯑ſiſting of 77 Stones; Long Meg 15 Feet above Ground, and the reſt but 10.

This having been a Frontier County, the antient Houſes of the Nobility and Gentry are built for the moſt part Caſtle-wiſe, and are called Caſtles. Thus Grey-ſtock Caſtle and Drumbough Caſtle be⯑long to the Duke of Norfolk; Cockermouth Caſtle to the Duke of Somerſet; Naworth Caſtle to the Earl of Carliſle; Dacre Caſtle to the late Earl of Suſſex; Corby Caſtle, Mr. Howard's. And here I muſt be a little more particular on the laſt, which deſerves the Obſervation of the Curious. Corby Caſtle is ſituated about Four Miles S. E. of Carliſle, and is the Seat of the ſaid Mr. Howard, a Deſcendant from the Duke of Norfolk's Family. The Build⯑ing is of Stone, neat, but plain. The Entrance to this Houſe is by a large ſquare Court-yard. On the Right-hand are the Gardens, and on the Left Offices for the Servants, and Stabling for Horſes. It is plentifully water'd by Springs in ſeveral large Reſervoirs made about the Houſe, which ſtands on the Precipice of a high Rock, which is in the Back⯑part about 100 Feet high. In this Rock is cut a regular Pair of Stairs of about Six Feet wide, with all their Ornaments down to the Bottom. As you deſcend theſe Stairs, you paſs by ſeveral Rooms hewn out of the Rock, of about 16 Feet ſquare, which have no other Furniture than Tables, and Seats made out of the Stone. At the Bottom of thoſe Stairs you aſcend another Pair about 10 Feet high, which leads to a Terrace made in Form of a Semicircle, by the Side of which runs the River Eden, having a Pair of Stairs to take Water at. The Terrace preſents a fine View of another Part of the Rock, of equal Height with the former; from the Top of which is placed a Caſcade ſo wonder⯑fully [247] curious, that I know nothing like it. It is at leaſt 100 Feet high, and the Water is broken by the pointed Ridges of the Rock into ſo many various Shapes, and the Springs fly about you in ſo delight⯑fully rude a manner, as to entertain you with a great Inſtance of the Power of Art in imbelliſhing Na⯑ture, which is further heighten'd by a natural Caſ⯑cade, (effected by this artificial one) of which you have a diſtinct Proſpect, when you arrive at the Landing-ſtairs.

From hence you have another View, of half a Mile long, of the River on the Right-hand; and a hanging Grove of Trees, juſt as Nature has placed them, on the Left. As you paſs along a Gravel⯑walk, you ſee ſeveral Figures placed there for Orna⯑ment; at the End of the Walk is a ſmall Banquet⯑ing-room, with a Portico in the Front, facing this Walk: it is call'd Tempe-alter'. In this River is a Weir, well-ſtock'd with Salmon and other Fiſh. On the other Side of the River, over-againſt the Houſe, are the Remains of an old Caſtle, which is called Weatheral-Tower, under which is an Hermit's Cave.

Weſtward of Lancaſhire and Cumberland lies the Iſle of Man; of which I ſhall take Notice among the Weſtern Iſles of Scotland. [See VOL. IV. p. 253.]

Cumberland gives Title of Duke to his Royal Highneſs Prince William, his Majeſty's ſecond Son; as it did before to his Royal Highneſs George Prince of Denmark, Conſort of the late Queen Anne.

Being now at the utmoſt Extent of England this Way, I ſhall conclude my Letter with a few Obſer⯑vations upon the ROADS of this Part of the United Kingdom in general. And firſt of the natural Soil in many Places, where not mended by Turnpikes.

[248]The Soil of all the Midland Part of England, even from Sea to Sea, is of a deep ſtiff Clay, or marly Earth; and it carries a Breadth of near 50 Miles at leaſt, in ſome Places much more; nor is it poſſible to go from London to any Part of Britain, North, without croſſing this clayey dirty Part. For Example:

1. Suppoſe we had been to take the great Nor⯑thern Poſt Road from London to York, and ſo into Scotland; you have tolerable good Ways, and hard Ground, till you reach Royſton, about 32 Miles, and to Kneeſworth, a Mile farther: but from thence you uſed to enter upon the Clays, which beginning at the famous Arrington-Lanes, and going on to Caxton, Huntingdon, Stilton, Stamford, Grantham, Newark, Tuxford, (called for its Deepneſs, Tuxford in the Clays) hold on till we come almoſt to Bau⯑tree, which is the firſt Town in Yorkſhire, and there the Country is naturally hard and ſound, being Part of Shirwood Foreſt.

2. Suppoſe you had been to take the other Nor⯑thern Road, by St. Albans, Dunſtable, Hockley, Newport-Pagnel, Northampton, Leiceſter, and Not⯑tingham, or Derby: After you are paſs'd Dunſtable, which is about 30 Miles, you uſed to enter the deep Clays, which were ſo ſurpriſingly ſoft, that it was perfectly frightful to Travellers, and had been the Wonder of Foreigners, how, conſidering the great Numbers of Carriages which are continually paſſing with heavy Loads, thoſe Ways have been made practicable. From Hockley to Northampton, thence to Harborough and Leiceſter, and thence to the very Banks of Trent, theſe terrible Clays continue; at Nottingham you are paſt them; and the Foreſt of Shirwood naturally yields a hard and pleaſant Road for 30 Miles together.

3. Take the ſame Road as it leads to Coventry, and from thence to Weſt-Cheſter, the deep Clays [249] reach through all the Towns of Brickhill, Fenny and Stony Stratford, Towceſter, Daventry, Hill-Morton, or Dunchurch, Coventry, Coleſhill, and even to Bir⯑mingham, for near 80 Miles.

4. If we took the Road to Worceſter, it uſed to be the ſame through the Vale of Aileſbury to Buck⯑ingham, and Weſtward to Banbury, Keynton, and the Vale of Eveſham, where the Clays reach, with ſome Intermiſſions, even to the Bank of Severn, as they do more Northerly quite to Weſt-Cheſter.

This natural Difficulty of the Soil thro' all the midland Country, where the Carriage at the ſame time was ſo prodigious, and made ſome of the Highways in a manner impaſſable, neceſſarily brought the Country to apply to Parliament; and the Con⯑ſequence has been, that Turnpikes or Toll-bars have been ſet up on the ſeveral great Roads of Eng⯑land, beginning at London, and proceeding thro' almoſt all thoſe dirty deep Roads, in the Midland Counties eſpecially; at which Turnpikes all Car⯑riages, Droves of Cattle, and Travellers on Horſe⯑back, are obliged to pay an eaſy Toll; which bears no Compariſon with the Benefit reap'd thereby: and 'tis well worth recording, for the Honour of the preſent Age, that this Work has been begun, and is in an extraordinary manner carry'd on, and perhaps may, in a great meaſure, be completed within our Memory, as to the worſt and moſt dan⯑gerous Roads in the Kingdom. And this is a Work of ſo much general Good, that certainly no publick Edifice, Alms-houſe, Hoſpital, or Nobleman's Pa⯑lace, can be of equal Value to the Country with this, nor at the ſame time more an Honour and Or⯑nament to it.

The Benefit of theſe Turnpikes appears now to be ſo great, and the People in all Places begin to be ſo ſenſible of it, that it is incredible what Effect it has already had upon Trade in the Counties where [250] the Roads are completely finiſhed; even the Car⯑riage of Goods is abated, in ſome Places, 6d. per hundred Weight; in others, 12d. per Hundred; which is abundantly more Advantage to Commerce, than the Charge paid amounts to; and yet at the ſame time the Expence is paid by the Carriers too, who make the Abatement; ſo that the Benefit in abating the Rate of Carriage is wholly and ſimply the Tradeſmens, not the Carriers.

Yet the Advantage is evident to the latter alſo another way; for they can bring more Weight with the ſame Number of Horſes, nor are their Horſes ſo hard-work'd and fatigu'd with their Labour as they were before; in which one Particular 'tis ac⯑knowleged by the Carriers, they perform their Work with more Eaſe, and the Maſters are at leſs Expence.

The Advantage is alſo inexpreſſible to all other kinds of Travelling; ſuch as the Safety and Eaſe to Gentlemen journeying up to London on all Occa⯑ſions, whether to the Term, to Parliament, to Court, or on any other neceſſary Occaſion.

Alſo the Riding Poſt, as well for the ordinary carrying of the Mails, as for Gentlemen, when their Occaſions require Speed, is made extremely eaſy, ſafe and pleaſant, by this Alteration of the Roads.

The Safety of Travelling on this Occaſion is the more to be inſiſted on, becauſe the Commiſſioners for theſe Repairs of the Highways do daily order Bridges to be repair'd and inlarg'd, and new ones built, where they find Occaſion; which not only ſerve to carry the Water off, where it otherwiſe often ſpreads, and lies, as it were, damm'd up upon the Road, and ſpoils the Way, but where it riſes ſometimes by ſudden Rains to a dangerous Height; for it is to be obſerv'd, that there is more Hazard, and more Lives loſt, in paſſing, or attempting to paſs, little Brooks and Streams, which are ſwell'd by ſudden [251] Showers of Rain, and where Paſſengers expect no Stoppage, than in paſſing great Rivers, where the Danger is known, and therefore more carefully avoided.

In many of theſe Places the Commiſſioners have not only built large and ſubſtantial Bridges, but have ſet up Sluices to ſtop, and open Chanels to carry off the Waters, where they uſed to ſwell into the Highway: and I have been told, Years ago, that the ſeveral Commiſſioners, in the reſpective Diſtricts, where they are concerned, had then built between 300 and 400 new Bridges, where there were none before, or where the former were ſmall, and inſuffi⯑cient to carry the Traveller ſafe over the Waters. Many of theſe are within a few Miles of London, eſpecially, for Example, on the great Road from London to Edgeworth, from London to Enfield, from London to St. Albans, from London to Croydon, &c.

Beſides the Benefits accruing from this laudable Method, we may add, the Conveniency to thoſe who bring fat Cattle, eſpecially Sheep, to London in the Winter, from the remoter Counties of Lei⯑ceſter and Lincoln, where they are bred: for, before, the Country Graziers were oblig'd to ſell their Stocks off in September and October, when the Roads be⯑gan to be bad, and when they generally ſell cheap; and the Butchers and Farmers near London uſed to engroſs them, and keep them till December and Ja⯑nuary, and then ſell them, tho' not an Ounce fatter than before, for an advanced Price, to the Citizens of London; whereas now the Roads are in a Way to be made every-where paſſable, the City will be ſerv'd with Mutton almoſt as cheap in the Winter as in the Summer, or the Profit of the Advance will be to the Country Graziers, who are the original Breeders, and take all the Pains.

This is evidenced to a Demonſtration in the Coun⯑ties where the Roads are already repair'd, from [252] whence they bring their fat Cattle, and particularly their Mutton, in Droves, from Sixty, Seventy, or Eighty Miles, without fatiguing, haraſſing, or ſink⯑ing the Fleſh of the Creatures, even in the Depth of Winter.

I might give Examples of other Branches of In⯑land Commerce, which are, and ſtill will be further alter'd for the better, by this Repairing the Roads, and particularly that of carrying Cheeſe; a Species of Proviſion ſo conſiderable, that nothing, except that of live Cattle, can exceed it.

This is chiefly made in the Three North-weſt Counties of England, viz. Cheſhire, Glouceſterſhire, and Warwickſhire, and the Parts adjacent, from whence the Nation uſed to be very meanly ſupply'd, by reaſon of the great Diſtance of the Country where the Cheeſe is made, from thoſe where it is chiefly expended.

The Cheſhire Men indeed carry great Quantities about by long Sea, as they call it, to London; a ter⯑rible long, and ſometimes dangerous, Voyage, being thro' the Iriſh Chanel, round all Wales, croſs the Briſtol Chanel, round the Land's End of Corn⯑wall, and up the Engliſh Chanel to the Mouth of the Thames, and ſo up to London; or elſe by Land to Burton upon Trent, and ſo down that River to Gainsborough and Hull, and ſo by Sea to London.

Again, the Glouceſterſhire Men carry all by Land-Carriage to Lechlade and Cricklade on the Thames, and ſo carry it down the River to London.

But the Warwickſhire Men have no Water-Car⯑riage at all, or at leaſt not till they have carry'd it a long Way by Land to Oxford; but as their Quan⯑tity is exceeding great, and they ſupply not only the City of London, but alſo the Counties of Eſſex, Suffolk, Norfolk, Cambridge, Huntingdon, Hertford, Bedford, and Northampton, the Groſs of their Car⯑riage is by mere dead Draught; and they carry it [253] either to London by Land, which is full 100 Miles, and ſo the London Cheeſemongers ſupply the ſaid Counties of Eſſex, Suffolk, and Norfolk, beſides Kent, and Suſſex, and Surrey, by Sea and River Navigation; or the Warwickſhire Men carry it by Land once a Year to Sturbridge Fair, whence the Shop-keepers of all the Inland Country above-nam'd come to buy it; in all which Caſes Land-Carriage being long, when the Ways were generally bad, it made it very dear to the Poor, who are the chief Conſumers.

I could alſo inlarge here upon the Convenience that accrues to the Trade in freſh Fiſh, from the Sea Coaſts to the Inner Parts of the Kingdom, whither, when the Ways are bad, they cannot carry them ſweet. This of courſe muſt greatly increaſe the Conſumption of Fiſh in its Seaſon, and imploy a conſiderable Number of Horſes and Men, as well as increaſe the Shipping by that Conſumption.

By this I do not only mean the carrying of Her⯑rings and Mackerel to London, as is practiſed on the Coaſts of Suſſex and Kent in particular, and bring⯑ing Salmon from the remote Rivers of Severn and Trent; but the carrying of Herrings, Mackerel, and Sprats in their Seaſon, and Whitings and flat Fiſh at other times, from the Coaſts of Yarmouth, Swole, Ipſwich, Colcheſter, Malden, &c. and ſupplying all the Inland Counties with them ſweet and good, even as far as Northampton and Coventry, &c.

I might give Examples where the Herrings, which are not the beſt Fiſh to keep, uſed, even before theſe Reparations were ſet on foot, to be carried to thoſe Towns, and up to Warwick, Birmingham, Tam⯑worth and Stafford; and tho' they frequently ſtunk before they got thither, yet the People were ſo eager for them, that they bought them up at a dear Rate; whereas when the Roads are every-where good, they will come in leſs Time, by at leaſt Two Days [250] [...] [251] [...] [252] [...] [253] [...] [254] in Six of what they uſed to do, and 100 times the Quantity will be conſum'd.

Theſe, and many others, are the Advantages to our Inland Commerce, which we may have room to hope for upon the general Repair of the Roads, and which I ſhall have great Occaſion to ſpeak of again in my Northern Circuit.

Nor are the laudable Undertakings which have of late Years been ſet on foot for rendering many of the Inland Rivers of this Kingdom navigable, a leſs profitable Improvement to the Publick, many of which have been completed, and others are com⯑pleting, according to Acts of Parliament already paſſed for that Purpoſe; many of which I have taken notice of, in the Courſe of my Letters. And hardly a Seſſion paſſes, but Bills are ſtill continued to be brought in for making others navigable. All which muſt greatly tend, with the repairing of the publick Roads, as above, to increaſe the Trade of this Nation.

But 'tis time to conclude this Letter; which I ſhall do, with the following Tranſcription from the famous Milton, which, not unſuitably to the Subject I have juſt been upon, thus enumerates the principal Rivers of England, with their diſtinguiſhing Cha⯑racters:

LETTER V. GIVING A brief Account of the Iſles of Jerſey, Guernſey, Alderney, and Sarke.

THAT nothing may be wanting to complete this Work, I ſhall briefly in this Place touch upon the Iſles of Jerſey, Guernſey, Alderney and Sarke, which are the only Remains of the Dukedom of Normandy, now in Poſ⯑ſeſſion of the Engliſh Crown. And, firſt, of JER⯑SEY.

Various Names have been affix'd to this Iſland: in the Time of the Romans it was nam'd Caeſarea, proba⯑bly from the Dictator, who ſubdued ſeveral Nations along this Tract: which Conjecture is confirm'd by the preſent Name of one of its Forts, which is Le Fort de Céſar. In the North of the Iſland, at Roſel, is an Intrenchment preſerving the Name of La pe⯑tite Céſarée. That the Romans were here, is plain from the Remains of an antient Camp near the Ma⯑nor of Dilament; as alſo from Coins which have been found in different Parts of the Iſland, particu⯑larly [256] One of Commodus, and Two of Probus and Poſthumus, all in the Pariſh of St. Oûen. Its mo⯑dern Appellation is no more than a Corruption of its old one, Jer being a Contraction of Caeſar, and Ey ſignifying Iſland, q. d. Caeſar's Iſland. Augia was a Name ſtill elder than the Time when the Romans were acquainted with the Place; and ſup⯑poſed to be the original one.

The Iſland has ſuſtained ſeveral Revolutions: firſt, by Rollo, Duke of Normandy. 2. By the French. 3. By the Normans reſtored. 4. By the Uniting of it to the Crown of England. The Inhabitants behav'd very valiantly in Defence of Charles I. and his Son Charles II. but were at laſt reduced by the irreſiſtible Power of the Engliſh Par⯑liament, altho' they are ſuppoſed to have been the laſt who ſubmitted to the common Fate of the Times, by a Capitulation equally advantageous and honourable.

We ſhall now proceed to give as clear an Account of the Situation and remarkable Places of this Iſland as the Narrowneſs of our Limits will admit.

Jerſey is computed to be 49° 10′ N. L. and 2° 20′ W. L. from the Meridian of London. Its Length is 12 Miles; its utmoſt Breadth between Six and Seven. Its North-ſide, from its lofty Cliffs, is 40 or 50 Fathoms perpendicular from the Sea; which renders it inacceſſible that way; but the South is much lower, and almoſt level with the Water. Its Form ſeems to reſemble a Wedge, or a rectangular Triangle.

The higher Lands are diverſify'd by gritty and gravelly, ſtony and rocky, fine and ſweet Mould; the lower by heavy, deep and rich Soil. All kinds of Foreſt and Fruit-trees, Shrubs, Roots, Flowers and Herbs, flouriſh here, with Pulſe and Corn, tho' their Wheat is ſmaller than Engliſh.

[257]The Decay of Tillage (ſo evident in this Iſle) is owing to three Cauſes: 1. The Increaſe of the Stocken Manufacture; which naturally inclined the People to ſlight the more laborious Imployment of Agriculture. 2. The Improvement of Navigation, and Foreign Traffick, which had the ſame Effect. 3. The Culture of Cyder, by converting the Arable Lands into Orchards for that Purpoſe; which Com⯑modity is the ordinary Drink of the Inhabitants, who are now over-ſtock'd with it; ſo that there is Hope of their returning to the Plough, and to their former Induſtry. 4. The Increaſe of Incloſures and High⯑ways; of the latter whereof here are three Sorts; the firſt call'd Le Chemin du Roy, or The King's High-way, ſixteen Feet in Breadth; the ſecond, Le Chemin de huit Pieds, or The Eight-foot way, which with its Sides makes up 12 Feet; and the third, Le Chemin de quatre Pieds, or the Four-foot Way, for Horſe-carriages.

On the Rocks about the Iſland, Sea-weed grows plentifully, which is an Equivalent for the Deficiency of other Things uſeful in Huſbandry, and is the common Manure of the Land in Jerſey.

Here is Plenty of good Water from the inex⯑hauſtible Stores of Springs guſhing from the nume⯑rous Strata of Rocks every-where conſpicuous. Meat alſo and Butter are equally good and ſweet here, tho' the Cattle are inferior in Size to thoſe elſewhere.

The Ewes of this Iſle had four Horns, but the Rams ſix, in Camden's Time, tho' rarely now to be ſeen. Fowl of all Kinds are here in great Quan⯑tities. But none of the volatile Tribe exceed in Beauty the Jerſey Partridge, having the bright Eyes natural to that Bird, red Legs, and variegated Feathers. The Fleſh however is not much preferable to that of the common Partridge.

This Iſland abounds with Fiſh, the Species of which we may range thus: 1. Rough-coated Fiſh, [258] ſuch as Rouſſes, Haus, &c. the coarſeſt of all. 2. Shell and Rock-fiſh, among which is the Ormer, ſuppoſed peculiar to theſe Parts, and deriving its Name, which is French, from its Reſemblance, to a human Ear. The Inſide of the Shell is made uſe of in inlaid Works, as Mother of Pearl, to the bright Colour of which it approaches. There is no Under-ſhell; but the Fiſh adheres to the Rock with its Back, and is a ſolid Maſs of white Pulp, very grateful to the Taſte, which it regales like the Fleſh of Land Animals. In great Spring Tides, at low-water Mark, it is found. 3. Flat-fiſh, as Rays, Thornbacks, Soles, Plaiſe, large Turbots, &c. 4. Scale-fiſh. Of theſe, one Draught of Baſe has equall'd a Cart-load. Be⯑ſides which here is the Mullet, red and grey, the Vrac, or Sea-carp, and the Bar, an exquiſite Fiſh, ſometimes two Feet in Length. Other Fiſh here are, which for their Singularity we cannot paſs by in Silence.

The Gronnard is ſo call'd from its grunting Noiſe, when taken. Its Head is almoſt as big as the Body, and its Colour is a deep Scarlet, reſembling Blood.

The Lançon (or little Lance, from its Shape) is never found in the Water, but in ſome moving Sand⯑bank deſerted by the Sea; when the Sand being mov'd with an iron Hook, the Fiſh ſpring up, and are caught by Handfuls. The young Men and Maids take great Delight, during the warm Summer Nights, in this Sport; which is render'd eaſy to them by the Gliſtering of the Prey above the Sand. This they term aller au Lançon. It is prepar'd as an Anchovy, and, well-dreſs'd, gives an agreeable Reliſh.

Another odd Fiſh is the Sirene, which is furniſh'd with Teats like a Woman's.

The ugly, but harmleſs, and perhaps wholſome Animal the Toad, abounds here, as do innoxious Creatures of the Serpentine Kind, particularly Li⯑zards, which gaze on Paſſengers, as they lie baſking [259] in the Sun. But the worſt of the reptile Kind are Moles, which damage the Corn and Graſs, though they compenſate that Detriment by affording a freer Paſſage to the Rain thro' their Latibula.

The Climate here is in general wholſome; tho' as Luxury has gain'd Ground, Diſeaſes unknown to former Ages have been its conſtant Attendants: ſo that it cannot now boaſt of that Character given it by Camden, That here was no Room for the Phyſi⯑cians.

The Rocks are vaſt and terrible, the Tides rapid and ſtrong; as an Evidence of which, here is no Still-water at any time, as in other Parts of the Britiſh Chanel.

The whole Iſland conſiſts of 12 Pariſhes, which are divided into Vintaines, from the 20 Houſes which formerly, as is ſaid, conſtituted each Pariſh; tho' now ſome Pariſhes vaſtly exceed that Number. Cueil⯑lettes is the Name for theſe Diviſions in the Pariſh of St. Oûen alone.

But to be more particular: 1. The Pariſh juſt mention'd contains ſix Cueillettes, namely, De Vin⯑chelés, des Millés, de Leoville, des Grontés, Grande Cueillette, and Petite Cueillette. The Seigneur de St. Oûen has a large Pond in the Weſt of the Iſland, containing about 20 Acres of Land, wherein are Carp of ſo extraordinary a Size, as ſcarce to be equalled in Europe; ſome of them being four Feet four Inches in Length. Part of the great Bay of St. Oûen had been a rich Vale, which was ſwallow'd up by the Sea.

2. St. Peter contains ſix Vintaines; which are, Des Angueres, du Coin Varin, du Doet, de St. Nico⯑las, de la Vallée, and Grande Vintaine.

3. In St. Brelade are four Vintaines; call'd Des Quenves, de la Moye, du Coin, and de Noirmont. In this Pariſh ſtands the Town of St. Aubin, the ſecond of the Iſland; and from it the Bay adjoining [260] derives its Name; which conſiſts of white Sand, level and firm; and thence the Travelling from this Town to St. Helier, the Capital, is render'd ſmooth and eaſy. And as the Church is at a Diſtance, and intercepted by a bleak Hill, the Inhabitants, who are in plentiful Circumſtances, were building, when I was there, a convenient Chapel by way of Contri⯑bution. The Port, which is the beſt and moſt fre⯑quented in Jerſey, has a ſtrong Pier, carry'd into the Sea, which receives and affords a ſafe Harbour for Ships. Here a Sixth-rate juſt floats at a dead Neap, and a Ship of 200 Tons at all times. At Half-flood a Veſſel of 130 Tons may find Entrance. Larger Ships indeed, and Men of War, muſt remain in the Road, where is good Anchorage. The Pier joins to the Fort of St. Aubin, which renders the Place very defenſible. Theſe Advantages have brought hither many Merchants and Maſters of Ships: and every Monday is held what is improperly call'd a Market; for it is rather an Exchange, where Mer⯑chants and others meet for tranſacting Affairs of Na⯑vigation and Traffick. The Houſes are moſtly new.

4. St. Mary has two Vintaines, Du Nord, and du Sud. In this Pariſh was diſcover'd a Spring ſtrongly impregnated with a purging Mineral; the Water of which was approved of by Dr. Charleton, an eminent Engliſh Phyſician.

5. St. Laurence contains four Vintaines; viz. Du Coin Motier, du Coin Tourgis, du Coin és Haſtains, and de la Vallée.

6. St. John has three Vintaines; which are Du Nord, du Doet, de Herupe. In this Pariſh is a Hill call'd Mont-mado, whereon is a rich Quarry of excel⯑lent Stone, capable of being cut into regular Squares, like Portland Stone.

7. In Trinity are five Vintaines, namely, De la Ville à l' Eveſque, du Rondin, de Roſel, des Augrés, and de la Croizerie.

[261]8. St. Helier comprehends four Vintaines, which are, Du Mont à l' Abbée, du Mont au Prétre, du Mont Cochon, and de la Ville. The Situation of St. Helier is pleaſant as well as commodious, having on the South-weſt the Sea, with a full Proſpect of Elizabeth Caſtle, and of the Road for Ships. To the North are Hills, which are an excellent Defence againſt the Cold: and at their Feet a Flat of Mea⯑dows inliven'd by a pure Stream, which from hence enters the Streets, and even the Houſes; ſo that the Water is eaſily brought up by Buckets, let down thro' a Trap-door, or from the Reſervoirs of Wells and Pumps. Another huge Hill projects, in a manner, over the Town; and being a Common, affords to the Cattle Herbage, and to Gentlemen and Ladies an agreeable Walk, with the Advantage of an exten⯑ſive Proſpect. The uſual Name of this Hill is Le Mont de la Ville. The unfortunate Duke of Somer⯑ſet, Protector of the King and Kingdom, had probably intended to protect himſelf from the Malice of his Enemies, by building a new Town here, as he did a Citadel at Alderney; both which Deſigns became abortive by his Death. In St. Helier, at preſent, are about 400 Houſes, diſpoſed into divers wide and well-pav'd Streets. La Cohue Royale, or the Seat of Juſtice, ſtands in a large Quadrangle, on each Side of which are handſome Structures. Here is held every Saturday a Market, or rather a Fair, whither People flock from all Parts of the Iſland to enjoy their Friends, or tranſact Buſineſs. In the Town live few landed Gentlemen, but many Shop⯑keepers, Artificers, and Retailers of Liquor. Scarce any thing is wanting to the Uſes of Neceſſity or Convenience. La Halle, la Boucherie, or the Shambles, is a large Room incloſed, ſo that the Sight and Smell of Carcaſes do not here annoy the Eyes and Noſtrils of People, as they do in moſt Country Towns. The Number of Inhabitants, excluſive of [262] ſome Hundreds in the Out-Vintaines, who are Pa⯑riſhioners, tho' not Townſmen, is ſuppoſed to amount to Two thouſand. And the Church, tho' very ca⯑pacious by the Acceſſion of Galleries, when I was there, was crouded with them.

9. St. Saviour has ſix Vintaines, of the following Denominations: De Maufant, de ſous la Hogue, des Pigneaux, de ſous l' Egliſe, de le Grande Longue⯑ville, and de la Petite Longueville.

10. Under St. Martin are comprehended theſe five Vintaines: De Roſel, de la Queruée, de ſous l' Egliſe, du Fief du Roy, and de Faldoit.

11. Gronville compriſes four Vintaines, De la Rue, des Marais, de Longueville, and de la Roque.

12. In St. Clement are three Vintaines, by Name, Du Mont Roquier, de Samaréz, and Grand Vin⯑taine. In the Canal call'd Samaréz are great Num⯑bers of Carp and Eel, the only freſh-water Fiſh in the Iſland.

The Cueillettes and Vintaines are in all 52. The Buildings are all of Stone, as may well be ſuppoſed, in a Country which is nothing but a huge Rock, cover'd with Strata of Earth. The common Sort is Rag-ſtone. The Stone on Mont-mado, mention'd above, is of a reddiſh White, the whiter the better, of a fine Grain, and may be wrought almoſt as ſleek as poliſh'd Marble. The Churches and fineſt Edifices are cover'd with blue Slate; the ordinary Houſes are thatch'd with long Wheat-ſtraw.

The principal Trade is that to Newfoundland, whither, in the Year 1732, were ſent 27 Ships, from thence to proceed to the Mediterranean, in order to diſpoſe of their Fiſh. Another Branch of Trade is that of knit Hoſe, or Stockens, which are every Saturday ſold at St. Helier, to the Merchants; and many thouſand Pairs are made weekly in the Iſland.

The Language, as you may gueſs from the Names of Places, is French, tho' obſolete, and thence to be [263] eſteem'd barbarous. This Remark, however, is not to be extended to their Religious Worſhip, Judica⯑tures, or even the Converſation of the more polite, in all which the pure French is uſed. Tho' this is the original Language, yet one may obſerve a pretty good Smattering of Engliſh, even among the lower Claſs of People, owing to the Intermixture of the Soldiers in the Gariſon at St. Helier; in the Church of which Town Prayers are alternately in French and Engliſh.

The chief Officer, who repreſents the King's Per⯑ſon, is the Governor. His Excellency, at the Time when I was there, was the Right Honourable the Lord Viſcount Cobham.

Harliſton Tower was ſo call'd from Sir Richard Harliſton, Governor of the Iſland in the Time of King Henry VII. who built it in Mont Orgueil Caſtle. The great Sir Walter Ralegh bore this high Office, to which his Name does Honour.

Mont-Orgueil is of ſo great Antiquity, that no Record ſubſiſts, old enough to determine its Origin. 'Tis at preſent ſlighted, and in a ruinous Condition; and what it was formerly, Elizabeth-Caſtle now is, equal to any Fortreſs within the Britiſh Dominions. It is nam'd Le Château de l' Iſlet, or ſimply L' Iſlet, from its Situation on a ſmall Iſland. In Circuit it is little leſs than a Mile. In 1551 all the Bells in Jer⯑ſey, excepting one to each Church, were ſold towards defraying the Expence of the Building. In 1586 the Upper Ward was erected, which is properly Queen Elizabeth's Caſtle, every Houſe in the Iſland furniſhing four Days Work. The Lower Ward is King Charles I.'s Caſtle, and was begun in 1626. During the Civil War Charles-Fort was added; and in 1665, the French threatening the Place, the Green was incloſed within a Wall.

The Fort of St. Aubin is of good Uſe towards clearing the Road, and for a Safe-guard to Ships [264] within the Pier, which it ſecures by its Cannon planted on the Baſtions; tho' in antient Times it was no more than a great Tower on a Rock, thence nam'd La Tour.

There are five Regiments of regular Forces on the Iſland, which are reviewed every 29th of May, the Anniverſary of the Reſtoration.

The Civil Government is adminiſter'd by a Bailly, aſſiſted by 12 Jurats.

Here are divers Monuments of the Druidical Su⯑perſtitions, which are flat Rag-ſtones, of vaſt Size and Weight, raiſed three or four Feet from the Ground, and ſuſtain'd by others of leſs Bulk. Theſe the Natives call Poquelayes; and are the Altars, on which Sacrifices, often human, were immolated, par⯑ticularly, in the Pariſh of St. Helier, three of them contiguous to each other; and on the Summit of a Place call'd Le Rouge Bouillon, another; beſides one on St. Helier's Hill. Another larger, near Mont-Orgueil Caſtle; and near Roſel-haven, on a Cliff nam'd Le Couperon, an Antiquity ſeeming to be a little Temple of theirs. At a Place call'd Les Landes Pallot, in the Pariſh of St. Saviour, was a Rocking-ſtone, like that I ſhall mention in Scotland, deſtroy'd by the Cromwellians; erected by the Druids, probably to awe the People into a Belief of their Miracles. This alſo has been demoliſh'd.

Here are alſo Monuments of the Popiſh Superſtition; two more particularly: The firſt call'd La Chapelle de nôtre Dame des Pas, from the Bleſſed Virgin, who is ſaid to have left the Print of her Steps on the very Spot of the Rock, whereon the Chapel is erected, and this too after her Body was moulder'd into Duſt. The ſecond is term'd Hoguebie, a Chapel over a Tomb, built, according to Tradition, by the diſcon⯑ſolate Widow of the Seigneur de Hambie, a Norman, who fell by Treachery in this Iſland, and whoſe Loſs was ſo afflicting to his Lady, that ſhe erected it on [265] Purpoſe to have the melancholy Pleaſure of ſeeing the Place where her Lord's Corps was interr'd, from her Window in Normandy; and to procure his Soul the great Benefit of Maſſes. Afterwards one Mabon, who had been a Pilgrimage to Jeruſalem, took a Fancy to lengthen the Chapel toward the Eaſt, and to hollow a Place under the Altar, in order to repre⯑ſent our Lord's Sepulchre. This Place was made the chief Seat of the Popiſh Deluſion.

Notwithſtanding the prevailing Terrors of the Papal Empire in the Days of Queen Mary, the Magiſtrates of Jerſey had the Courage to put to Death Richard Averty, a Prieſt, and furious Proſe⯑cutor of the marry'd Clergy, for murdering his Ba⯑ſtard Child, which he effected without the Mother's Knowlege.

The Mace, borne before the Bailly and Magi⯑ſtrates, at the Convention of the States, &c. has this Inſcription:

Of which this is the Tranſlation:

St. Magloire, the Apoſtle of Jerſey, lies bury'd in a little Chapel near a Free-ſchool, corruptly call'd from him L' Ecole de St. Magloire, and founded, with another nam'd St. Anaſtaſe, by King Henry VII. who granted a Charter for that uſeful Purpoſe.

This Place gives Title of Earl to the Lord Viſ⯑count Villiers, the ſecond who has enjoy'd that Dignity.

II. The next Iſle I am to ſpeak of is GUERNSEY, the antient Name of which was Sarnia. From Jerſey it is diſtant 20 Miles to the North-weſt; yet equals not the former, either in point of Fruitfulneſs, or Extent of Territory; for it has but 10 Pariſhes. This Advantage however it enjoys above Jerſey, That here no venomous Creatures can ſubſiſt. It is alſo naturally better fortify'd from Invaſion, by craggy Rocks and Precipices. On the contrary, its Situa⯑tion, compar'd with that of Jerſey, renders this in⯑ferior; for whereas the North of Jerſey is much higher than the South, as we have ſaid, the South Side of Guernſey is high, and the North low; which produces a double Obliquity of the Sun and Land; and hence the Difference in the Soil and Air of each. [267] Notwithſtanding this they both agree as to their Ori⯑ginal, their Productions, and the Civil, Military and Eccleſiaſtical Government. Among the circum⯑jacent Rocks is found the ſharp and hard Stone call'd Smyris, or Emeril, and uſed by Glaziers for cutting Glaſs, as well as by Jewellers for poliſhing their Work.

In Trade it is ſuperior to its Neighbour Jerſey, by having a more convenient Port at its Eaſtern Ex⯑tremity, adjoining to the South; where the Shore retiring inward in the Form of a Creſcent, makes the Place capable of holding large Veſſels. The Foundation of its Pier was laid in the Beginning of Edward I.'s Reign by prodigious Stones, heap'd on each other to a conſiderable Height, and regularly cemented. The Shipping here is not only ſafe, and may be brought cloſe up to the Town, which we ſhall preſently mention; but the Pier itſelf is adorn'd with large ſmooth Flags, and guarded by Parapets; ſo that being of ſufficient Length and Breadth, it is uſed as the chief Place for Rendezvouſes on Parties of Pleaſure by the faſhionable People of the Town, as well as for its noble Proſpect over the Sea, and adjacent Iſles.

On the Right-ſide of the Port ſtands Cornet-Caſtle, which at high Tides is ſurrounded by the Sea. Sir Leonard Chamberlan, who was Governor of Guernſey, in Mary I.'s Time, and his Succeſſor, Sir Thomas Leighton, improved it with Fortifica⯑tions. In the Year 1672, the Governor Lord Viſ⯑count Hatton loſt his Lady, and himſelf eſcaped with great Difficulty, from a prodigious Storm of Lightning, which, catching the Powder-ſtore, blew up the lofty Tower with the Standard; ſo that the Caſtle muſt have formerly made a much more grand Appearance than at preſent. However, what it wants in Beauty, it makes up in real Uſefulneſs; for it has the Command of the Town and Harbour; [268] and its Situation alone renders it ſtrong, being di⯑vided from the Land by an Arm of the Sea about 600 Yards wide, except in great Spring-tides, when it is fordable.

On the Left-ſide too is a mean old Caſtle.

The only Town is call'd St. Peter's, has a free Trade, (which is however render'd ineffectual by Privateering) has a Market, is well ſtor'd with Im⯑plements of War, and conſiſts of one long Street, which is narrow, being confin'd between the Sea and the impending Hills. The Market is always plen⯑tifully ſupply'd with Fiſh.

To the North, joins a Peninſula nam'd Le Val, where once was a Priory. And

To the Weſt, near the Sea, is a Lake, a Mile and a half in Circumference, ſtock'd with Fiſh, eſpecially a kind of Carp of extraordinary Size, and delicious to the Taſte.

The Governor of Guernſey was (when I was on the Spot) the late Marquis of Montandre; and his Lieutenant, John Graham, Eſq

From hence the Second Son of Heneage, late Earl of Nottingham, and Lord High Chancellor, by Name Heneage Finch, was promoted to the Dig⯑nity of a Peer of England, by the Style of Baron of Guernſey.

In Guernſey there are Eight Miniſters to its Ten Pariſhes, Four of them being united.

I cannot take Leave of this Iſland without a ſhort Recital of a flagrant Inſtance of Popiſh Inhumanity, which, not content to roll in Seas of Blood, all over England, extended itſelf to this remote Corner. The Fact was thus: In the Days of that Firebrand of her Country, Mary I. a poor Widow, and her Two Daughters, one the Wife of Perrotine Maſ⯑ſey, a Miniſter, who had happily eſcaped the im⯑pending Fate by leaving his native Soil, were ſen⯑tenced to the Stake for what was call'd Hereſy. The [269] marry'd Woman's Body, during the Execution, burſting, by the Violence of the Flames, diſcharg'd the Pledge of her conjugal Affection, a beautiful Male Infant, which was haſtily caught up by the Miniſters of Juſtice, and carried before the Magi⯑ſtrates, whoſe tender Mercies commanded, That it ſhould be thrown in with the Mother, which was accordingly done. Hoc fera religio potuit ſuadere malorum▪ How far the Practices of this Sect may have been changed by the Illumination of Truth, inſtead of Faggots, notwithſtanding their obſtinate Per⯑ſeverance in their former Principles, I will not pre⯑tend to determine: but ſure I am, That from bad Principles to bad Practices the Tranſition is ex⯑tremely eaſy; and Experience has more than once, eſpecially within the Britiſh Dominions, teſtify'd the Truth of this Obſervation. I now proceed to mention (tho' very briefly) an Iſle dependent on the Government of Guernſey. This is,

III. ALDERNEY, ſuppoſed by Camden, to be the Arica of Antoninus; by others the Ebodia or Evo⯑dia of P. Diaconus. It is ſituated about a League and a half from Cape la Hogue in Normandy; is in Circumference about Eight Miles; and contains One Church with a Town, in which are about 200 Houſes, which lodge to the Number of 1000 Inha⯑bitants. The Soil is good for Paſture or Arable. And I was ſhewn one Field here of about 500 Acres, which, as I was told, had not once lain fallow for 100 Years before. Their Manure is Sea-weed, call'd Vraic, of which we have taken notice above. The Land lies high; and to the South is a Harbour, admitting only ſmall Veſſels.

The Streight which divides this Iſle from France, term'd Le Ras de Blanchart, or The Race of Alder⯑ney, is eſteem'd a dangerous Paſſage in ſtormy Wea⯑ther, when the Winds happen to encounter with [270] the ſtrong Currents. In calm Seaſons it is very ſafe, and the largeſt Ships may ride here with Eaſe. Nay, in 1692-3, Part of the French Fleet eſcap'd this Way, after the Blow they had met with at la Hogue. The laſt Place I ſhall mention in this Letter, is the Iſle of,

IV. SARKE, which, as well as Alderney, is depen⯑dent on the Government of Guernſey. It is no more than Two Miles in Length, and is ſituated in the midſt of all the others, and guarded with ſteep Rocks. Its Corn is excellent, the Land very high, which, together with its Situation, renders it one of the ſtrongeſt Places in the World. Its Water is very good. Formerly here was no Way for Draughts and Carriages from the Sea, till Philip de Carteret, Seigneur ae St. Oúen, (who had a Grant of the Iſland from Queen Elizabeth, and in whoſe Deſcen⯑dants the Property is veſted) cauſed one to be cut thro' the impending Cliff, which for ſome Space is carry'd on in ſubterranean Darkneſs, till it emerges within the Iſland, and is fortify'd with Cannon, and by a Gate. In the Reign of Edward III. was ſtanding the Convent of St. Magloire, with a Pen⯑ſion from the Exchequer, where that holy Perſon is ſaid to have reſided.

The Iſland fell into the Hands of the French, but in the Reign of Queen Mary I. was recover'd; and the Inhabitants have ever ſince enjoy'd the mild Influence of the Britiſh Government, equally ap⯑proving of their preſent happy Condition, and deteſt⯑ing the Fetters of French Slavery. Their Number amounts to about 300; and one Miniſter performs their divine Offices. Thus, having completed what I promiſed, I reſt from my TOUR, and am,